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VALENTINE
WARNER
Golden nuggets from
a very quirky cook
Secret
suppers
A sneaky peek at a
thriving underground
dining scene
WIN!
Dinner, bed and
breakfast at the
Crowne Plaza
Hotel!
flavour
Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 30 | August 2010 3 (Where sold)
for people who love local food
RISE AND
SHINE
Breakfast like
a King around
Bristol and Bath
01 Cover and spine:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:35 Page 1
02 Clifton Coffee ad:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:42 Page 1
Please recycle this product.
6 In Season
Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash
bring you the best of the
season's produce
11 WIN!
A stay at The Crowne Plaza
Hotel!
12 Secret Suppers
A sneaky peek at a thriving
underground dining scene
16 Rise and Shine
Breakfast like a King around
Bristol and Bath
24 Valentine Warner
Golden nuggets from a very
quirky cook
34
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24
contents
Editor:
Holly Aurelius-Haddock
Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com
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Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com
Photography:
Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker
Contributors:
Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Sin Blunos, Tom
Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock,
Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron
Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.
Flavour Magazine
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flavourmagazine.com
Welcome to the
August issue of
flavour!
This month might see even our cabinet
ministers take their annual leave and head
for the sun, but here at flavour HQ weve
never been busier!
As this months kitchen gardener will
confirm on PAGE 44, August is one of the
most exciting times of year on the fruit and
vegetable plot. And if all life springs from
the soil, the knock-on effect in the foodie
world is a pleasure to behold. Rainbow
coloured market stalls are overflowing with
seasonal produce, providing the eager cook
with endless inspiration for their weekly
menus. If you love sunshine food just as
much as we do, check out the brand new
recipes from Neven Maguire on PAGE 33
the perfect remedy for post-holiday blues.
We're absolutely thrilled to announce that
we'll be producing this year's official
Organic Food Festival Guide so keep an eye
out for your free supplement in next
month's issue, which will be packed with
everything you need to know about Europe's
largest event of its kind. But if you really
can't wait that long, turn to PAGE 38 for a
taster of what's in store.
We hope you enjoy reading this issue as
much as we've enjoyed making it.
Happy Eating!
Holly Aurelius-Haddock
welcome
03 Contents:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:05 Page 3
4
> flavour news
this month
If you have any news or events
that you would like to share with
us here at flavour then email
enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
THE COWSHED
The UKs first US-style barbeque
competition and food show made its way to
the Bristol Harbourside in July. Two-tonnes
of charcoal and wood was burnt by the 10
barbecue teams and exhibitors, with The
Cowshed Bar and Grill taking the crown as
the Napoleon King of the Grill
competition.
The team won a place in the BBQ World
Championships in Memphis next May to
represent the UK where the top prize is
$100,000 and an all expenses trip for the
whole team.
THE SPA AT HOMEWOOD
PARK
As the sun shines down on the beautiful
Limpley Stoke Valley and across its glorious
outdoor swimming pool, Homewood Park's
new spa is said to be off to a swimming
start.
Homewoods General Manager Denis
Verrier said I couldnt be more pleased
with the public response to the spa. We
welcomed over 150 people to our open day
last month and the feedback has been
brilliant. Im extremely proud of my team
whove worked tirelessly to ensure that we
opened on time.
www.homewoodpark.co.uk
Congratulations to
Caroline Parfitt from
Clevedon who has won
a copy of veggie
cookbook Yum!
Congratulations to
Steve Peters from
Cotham who has won
a Chandos Deli
hamper worth 100!
This year's Organic Food
Festival celebrates its10th
anniversary at Bristol's
Harbourside on 11 & 12 September
2010. The festival, which is Europe's
biggest celebration of all things organic,
provides an opportunity for visitors to
taste the best food and meet leading
producers from across the UK. Visitors
can expect a weekend of
gastronomic delights
provided by over 150 of
the very best organic
producers.
At this year's festival, as
well as a host of celebrity
chefs sharing culinary
wisdom in the Cookery Demo Tent, an
expected 20,000 visitors will be able to
discover delicious food and drink,
luxurious skincare, leading organic
fashion labels, organic textiles and
home design as well as organic
gardening.
At the heart of the 2010 festival will be
The Food Market where visitors can
come and look, taste and buy from stalls
offering some of the best organic
produce you can find. From organic pork
pies, to organic ice cream, it will be a
food lover's heaven.
Promising to be an entertaining family-
friendly outing, this much-loved festival
is perfect for everyone.
www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk
ORGANIC FOOD
FESTIVAL
WINNERS
NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE FOODIES
Nominations are now open for the BBC Radio 4 Food and
Farming Awards. The awards search for the best in food and
farming and are a great way to highlight the people in your area
who are upholding the regions reputation for truly great produce.
To nominate simply visit the awards website: www.bbc.co.uk/radio4
F
IN
D
O
U
T
M
O
R
E
O
N
P
A
G
E
3
8
!
04-05 News:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:45 Page 4
HAPPY AS PIGS IN MUD
According to new research carried out by Newcastle
University, pigs are capable of feeling human
emotions. These curly tailed cuties can feel
optimistic or pessimistic depending on how
they are treated. Kept in luxurious
surrounding, pigs are more likely to
respond positively to new experiences than
those kept in less stimulating pens. Last year
published research proved that cows that were
given a name and treated as individuals produced
more milk than unnamed cattle. It is hoped that this
is a step in the right direction to improving animal welfare.
5
> flavour news
LOVE COOKING
A brand new innovative cooking event,
Love Cooking, is to arrive in Bristol on
5th October at The Colston Hall.
Featuring one-hour live presentations
from some of the UKs top celebrity
chefs cooking live on stage, this show
is the ultimate culinary concert.
Individual tickets are priced at 20 or
see 2 chefs for 30. Ticket prices
include a Love Cooking recipe book
featuring 60 recipes from the show.
TICKET GIVEAWAY!
Love Cooking festival are giving away
a pair of tickets to
each of the Bristol
events. So for your
chance to see James
Martin, Gary Rhodes,
Rachel Allen, Ainsley
Harriott, Gino
DAcampo, Valentine
Warner and
Thomasina Miers
then email:
competitions@flavourmagazine.com
stating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy of
the magazine, or write to us at the
usual address. Good luck!
www.lovecookingfestival.com
Absolutely Cakes
were delighted to
have scooped a
three star gold for their
St. Clement's orange and lemon sponge
and a one star gold for their Carrot and
Pecan cake.
www.absolutelycakes.com
Castellanos received an impressive three
star gold awards for its dry cured back
bacon, pancetta and coppa. Vincent
Castellano can be found selling a
mouthwatering selection of artisan
charcuterie, all of which is prepared by
Vincent himself at his shop in Fishponds.
www.castellanos.co.uk
Jess Ladies Milk, took home two gold
awards, both one star for their organic
whole milk and their semi skimmed milk.
Her ladies should be very proud.
www.theladiesorganicmilk.co.uk
Now regarded as the equivalent of a
Michelin star for specialty food and drink
producers, The Great Taste Awards are in
their 14th year of judging and to reach two
or three star status, 20 judges must agree
that the product has reached 'absolute
perfection.
So a big pat on the back for our local
producers you will find them beaming
with pride at The Bristol Farmers Market
every Wednesday.
www.greattasteawards.co.uk
Results have recently been announced for this years
prestigious Great Taste Awards, and here are a few of our
favourite local winners
GREAT TASTE AWARDS 2010
SUMMER EVENINGS AT THE SECOND FLOOR
What better way to spend an evening than a sunset dinner bathed in the golden glow
of Harvey Nichols Second Floor Restaurant, watching the city below you?
Exclusively for the summer months, enjoy a three course set menu starting with a
complimentary Second Floor Bellini for 15 per person. Even amuses bouches and
petit fours are included!
Available Tuesday to Friday evenings from 6 July - 30 September.
For more information or to make a reservation call 0117 9168898 or email
reception.bristol@harveynichols.com
04-05 News:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:45 Page 5
BLACKBERRY, APPLE AND ROSEMARY
JELLY
Makes approx 2x500g jars
Remove the stalks from 500g washed
cooking apples and roughly chop including
the apple peel and core. Place in a pan with
litre of water, 1 cinnamon stick, 500g
blackberries and 2 large sprigs of
rosemary. Stir to the boil and simmer until
fruits are soft and mushy. Poor the
contents of the pan into a jelly bag and
allow the juice to drip through without help
overnight. Measure the liquid that has
dripped through and place it in a pan.
Gently bring the liquid to the boil and add
430g of sugar for every litre of liquid,
mixing in the sugar as the liquid boils. Boil
rapidly for 10-12 minutes until setting point
is reached; skim the surface of the jelly to
remove any scum and pour into jars, seal
immediately.
6
> flavour in season
>Tomatoes
Tomatoes come in all different shapes,
sizes and colours ranging from the giant
red beefsteak to the tiny cherry tomatoes.
They are sweet and tangy but although
classed as a fruit, they work best with
savoury ingredients in cooking. British
tomatoes are available from June through
to October and are fairly easy to grow at
home. Look for firm, bright tomatoes that
have their characteristic fragrant smell
and the leafy tops to the fruit are also a
good sign of freshness. The riper the
tomato the better and sweeter the taste
so be sure to look for the freshest, ripest
ones. Eating tomatoes cold can mute
their flavour so either eat right away or
take out of the fridge about half an hour
before you eat them to make sure you get
all the great taste!
>Blackberries
Wonderfully juicy, blackberries should be a
firm favourite in your kitchen throughout
the autumn. They are a purple-black berry
with a flavour ranging from sweet and juicy
larger berries to more tart smaller berries.
One of my favourite childhood recipes was
that of blackberry and apple crumble which
makes use of two abundant fruits at the
time of year. If possible, pick them rather
than buy them as they do not store that
well. If you are buying in punnets make
sure the berries are plump and shiny and
not squashed. If you have picked them
place them on kitchen paper on a plate in
the fridge so that they dont get crushed.
However, they are best eaten right away!
At their
best
SURF CLAMS WITH HERB AND TOMATO
SALSA
Serves 4
Blanch 5 plum tomatoes in boiling water
and refresh in ice water, peel, remove the
seeds and cut into small dice. Place in a
bowl with 1 teaspoon of chopped herbs,
including dill, parsley, tarragon and
coriander. Add 2 spring onions and
refrigerate. Place 150ml white wine in a
sauce pan, bring to the boil and simmer for
2 minutes. Add 40 large surf clams, cover
with a lid and cook until opened. While still
hot remove the empty half shells and
discard. To serve mix 50ml of olive oil and
150ml of champagne vinegar through the
tomatoes, plate the clams and spoon a little
salsa in each.
06-07 Seasonal:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:52 Page 6
> flavour xxxxxxx
7
>Fennel
Fennel is a very delicately flavoured
perennial herb but this herb is also
cherished for its delicious bulb and
fragrant seeds. The bulb is full of flavour
and its anise-laced scent work superbly
raw in fresh salads and cooked with fish
such as bass and bream. The foliage of the
plant is most commonly used as a herb and
has the same flavours as the bulb and is
very similar in appearance to that of dill.
It can also be used in dressings with olive
oil, salt and pepper. Fennel is in season
from May to October and is best when it is
firm and crisp with no blemishes or tinges
of brown on the bulb. The bulbs keep well
in a fridge for up to a week.
right now
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.
Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant
team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
>Peaches
Peaches really are some of the sweetest, juiciest and most fragrant of all the soft
fruit. Along with nectarines, peaches have to be picked ripe as they do not ripen that
well afterwards. They can come in different shapes and colours but the most common
are tennis ball-sized yellowy-red varieties with a velvety surface. They are best eaten
on their own but can also be used in salads with a salty blue cheese or in a classic
peach cobbler pudding. The ripest peaches will be fairly firm but will yield when
squeezed gently. Avoid hard peaches or ones that are bruised or very soft. They are
best eaten as soon as they are ripe but will store in a fridge for a day or two.
MEAD AND SAFFRON POACHED
PEACHES
Serves 4
Put pt of mead, pt of water and
400g sugar into a pan, bring to a
simmer and add 1 star anise, the zest
and juice from 1 lime and a large pinch
of finely chopped saffron strands,
simmer for 20 minutes. Meantime
blanch 6 yellow peaches in boiling
water, refresh in ice water and remove
the skins. Cut the peaches in half and
gently remove the stones. After the
syrup has infused put in the peaches
and simmer until just cooked and allow
the peaches to cool in the liquid. Serve
chilled with ice-cream or cream.
FENNEL, BUTTON MUSHROOM AND
GREEN BEAN SALAD
Serves 4
Finely slice 2 heads of fennel, 1 red onion
and 150g of washed and peeled button
mushrooms and place in a bowl. Blanch
300g of green beans in boiling water,
refresh in ice water and cut into 2 cm
pieces, pat them dry then add them to the
other vegetables. Add a small bunch of
watercress leaves discarding the stalks,
and 1 chilli. Gently toss the salad in the
juice of 1 lemon and 25ml of olive oil
seasoning with rock salt. (Great with fish.)
06-07 Seasonal:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:52 Page 7
9
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our
monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
WILD GARLIC, GOOSEBERRIES
AND ME
DENIS COTTER
Collins 14.99
Wild Garlic was a result of
world-renowned vegetarian chef
Dennis Cotter and his ambition
to re-connect people back to
food and the land. Dennis
reveals how to search for
delicious mushrooms, wild
greens and sloes, how to cook
asparagus and take on artichoke
with attitude. Dennis drags us
into muddy fields and introduces
us to the growers of the best
produce imaginable. After a read
of this very unique recipe book, it would be hard to not get those
wellies out and start your own vegetarian cooking experience.
HEDGEROW RIVER COTTAGE
HANDBOOK NO. 7
JOHN WRIGHT
Bloomsbury Publishing 14.99
Here at flavour we just love the River
Cottage Handbook Series and as we
have already featured Sea Fishing by
Nick Fisher, we just couldnt let this
new addition to the collection slip
through the net. Here, John Wright
explores the culinary delights of
British hedgerows, moors, meadows
and woods. Informative and witty,
John Wright reveals how to spot free
and delicious ingredients as well as
how to prepare and cook them. John
gives sufficient warning on how to
look out for poisonous varieties as well as any suspicious look-a-
likes. This book is an invaluable tool for household reference as well
as a necessity to have by your side for every trip into the countryside.
fab foodie reads
GOOD HOUSEKEEPING FAVOURITE
CAKES, BAKES & CUPCAKES.
Collins and Brown 14.99
From cupcakes and cookies, to
tarts and traybakes, there is a
sweet treat for everyone in this
yummy new cookbook from
Good Housekeeping. Every
recipe is clear and easy to
follow. Each delicious recipe has
been triple-tried and tested and
are guaranteed to work first
time, every time. So dont worry,
those cookies will not come out
as mini rock forms, the sponge
wont go stale within the hour
and the icing will not be lumpy!
Get your wooden spoons at the
ready.
LEVI ROOTS FOOD FOR FRIENDS:
100 SIMPLE DISHES FOR EVERY
OCCASION
LEVI ROOTS
Published by Mitchell
Beazely Octopus Publishing
18.99
Levi Roots, the man who famously
slayed the dragons and whipped
the nation into a Caribbean frenzy
with his spicy sauces, is back with
another fab book to tickle our taste
buds. In this book, our favourite
Caribbean star is showing us how
to cook for our friends and loved
ones by bringing a Caribbean twist
to the dinner table. Levi takes some
of the nations favourites and shows us how to spice it up in easy
steps. Pork chops are transformed into pork chops calypso and a
classic dessert is remodelled into mango, banana and passion fruit
trifle. Lets hope our favourite reggae reggae sauce makes an
appearance
09 FabFoodieReads:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:01 Page 9
Cadbury:Layout 1 6/7/10 20:40 Page 1
9
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our
monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
WILD GARLIC, GOOSEBERRIES
AND ME
DENIS COTTER
Collins 14.99
Wild Garlic was a result of
world-renowned vegetarian chef
Dennis Cotter and his ambition
to re-connect people back to
food and the land. Dennis
reveals how to search for
delicious mushrooms, wild
greens and sloes, how to cook
asparagus and take on artichoke
with attitude. Dennis drags us
into muddy fields and introduces
us to the growers of the best
produce imaginable. After a read
of this very unique recipe book, it would be hard to not get those
wellies out and start your own vegetarian cooking experience.
HEDGEROW RIVER COTTAGE
HANDBOOK NO. 7
JOHN WRIGHT
Bloomsbury Publishing 14.99
Here at flavour we just love the River
Cottage Handbook Series and as we
have already featured Sea Fishing by
Nick Fisher, we just couldnt let this
new addition to the collection slip
through the net. Here, John Wright
explores the culinary delights of
British hedgerows, moors, meadows
and woods. Informative and witty,
John Wright reveals how to spot free
and delicious ingredients as well as
how to prepare and cook them. John
gives sufficient warning on how to
look out for poisonous varieties as well as any suspicious look-a-
likes. This book is an invaluable tool for household reference as well
as a necessity to have by your side for every trip into the countryside.
fab foodie reads
GOOD HOUSEKEEPING FAVOURITE
CAKES, BAKES & CUPCAKES.
Collins and Brown 14.99
From cupcakes and cookies, to
tarts and traybakes, there is a
sweet treat for everyone in this
yummy new cookbook from
Good Housekeeping. Every
recipe is clear and easy to
follow. Each delicious recipe has
been triple-tried and tested and
are guaranteed to work first
time, every time. So dont worry,
those cookies will not come out
as mini rock forms, the sponge
wont go stale within the hour
and the icing will not be lumpy!
Get your wooden spoons at the
ready.
LEVI ROOTS FOOD FOR FRIENDS:
100 SIMPLE DISHES FOR EVERY
OCCASION
LEVI ROOTS
Published by Mitchell
Beazely Octopus Publishing
18.99
Levi Roots, the man who famously
slayed the dragons and whipped
the nation into a Caribbean frenzy
with his spicy sauces, is back with
another fab book to tickle our taste
buds. In this book, our favourite
Caribbean star is showing us how
to cook for our friends and loved
ones by bringing a Caribbean twist
to the dinner table. Levi takes some
of the nations favourites and shows us how to spice it up in easy
steps. Pork chops are transformed into pork chops calypso and a
classic dessert is remodelled into mango, banana and passion fruit
trifle. Lets hope our favourite reggae reggae sauce makes an
appearance
09 FabFoodieReads:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:01 Page 9
Summer Wraps
Perfect for picnics, packed lunches
and barbecues, Discovery
Wrapbreads make a great alternative
to sandwiches and can be filled with
just about anything from hummus
and salad to cream cheese and
smoked salmon for some delicious
alfresco finger food. Choose from
white, white plus, multiseed or
wholemeal.
T: 0800 018 0002
W: www.wrapbread.com
> flavour loves...
THIS MONTHS MUST DO, BUY & SEE...
Chilterns
Rapeseed Oil
Rapeseed is fast growing into our favourite
alternative to olive oil and Chilterns cold
pressed extra-virgin rapeseed oil is a
prime example as to why. With 10 times
more Omega 3 than traditional olive oil, as
well as under half the saturated fat
content there's no other oil wed prefer to
cook with! On offer is a range of six
delicious infused oils including, basil,
thyme, garlic, chilli, lemon and oak
smoked starting from 3.85 a bottle.
T: 01442 828478
W: www.pemeadandsons.co.uk
Sue Dann
Candles
Inspired by the English
countryside, these candles
are the perfect choice for any
harmonious home.
Everything from fragrance
blending to hand pouring is
done in the workshops in Wiltshire. Making careful and
natural ingredient choices ensures sustainability and
excellence. Choose from village perfumes, a reflection of life
in the country, manor fragrances which inspire sophistication
and elegance and walled garden perfumes which create a
touch of the botanical indoors. 20 each.
T: 01225 463 648
W: www.suedanninteriors.com
Fabulous Vodka
The Fabulous Vodka Company
develop and produce some of the
finest alcoholic drinks around.
Fabulous Vodka only use the
purest spirits blended or distilled
with the finest natural
ingredients, resulting in the
smoothest, most delicious drinks
suitable for drinking neat, over
ice, in a cocktail, or as an
ingredient in delicious food
dishes. Caralicious is a smooth
sweet blend of natural caramel
with the finest vodka. Developed
over a period of 10 months it has
proven a real hit with the
discerning liqueur drinker!
T: 07902 209532
W: www.fabulousvodka.co.uk
Grasse Giftshop
Keep your champagne or wine nicely
chilled with this stylish cooler made from
aluminum (69), and round the eco chic
look off with a set of handmade recycled
champagne glasses made in Valencia.
Both are a lovely addition to your dining
table and a beautiful gift idea. 7.95
each or set of four for 30.
T: 01225 444260
W: www.grasse.me.uk
flavour
L
o
v
e
s
10-11 Flavour loves:Layout 1 6/8/10 10:01 Page 10
11
> flavour loves...
WIN! AN OVERNIGHT STAY FOR TWO
AT THE CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL IN
MARLOW!
The luxurious Crowne Plaza Hotel is offering one lucky flavour
reader the chance to win an overnight stay for two people, dinner for
two in the hotel's restaurant, use of the spa as well as VIP tickets to
both days of the Marlow Food Festival!
For your chance of winning email
competitions@flavourmagazine.comstating your name, address,
phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine, or
write to us at the usual address. Good luck!
Bramley and Gage
6 OClock Gin
An award-winning tipple created by
Michael Kain whos achieved balance,
poise and precision in equal measure.
With hints of Juniper as well as six
other botanicals, orange peel and
elderflower, the resulting clean, smooth
and richly flavoured gin makes it a must
have for any drinks cabinet. 15.99 per
bottle.
T: 01454 418046
W: www.bramleyandgage.co.uk
Feed Your Imagination
Handmade using the finest organic Belgian chocolate and
blended with essential oils, these organic treats promise to
boost and rejuvenate from within. Beautiful was awarded Gold
at The Great Taste Awards and promotes a positive outlook. You
never have to feel guilty about a chocolate indulgence again
T: 0845 602 6862
W: www.feeding-your-imagination.co.uk
Upton Smokery
Based in the rolling Cotswolds, Upton
Smokery specialises in smoking meat, game
and fish of the highest quality. What started
five years ago on a micro scale, has grown to
a small-medium sized business supplying
high quality smoked food to businesses and
private customers throughout the Cotswold
area and beyond. Upton Smokery does not
use any artificial flavourings or colourings in
the process, just pure salt, water, natural
beech and oak smoke.
T: 01451 844744
W: www.uptonsmokery.co.uk Teapigs
Teapigs English Breakfast is their signature
blend. Far from ordinary, its a skilful
balancing act between three glorious teas:
a gutsy Assam, a mellow little Ceylon and a
powerful newcomer from Rwanda. This
flavour filled tea is a far cry from the regular
British brew.
Although we are supposed to be a nation of
black tea drinkers there are some very
adventurous tea lovers out there. For those
very people teapigs have blended pure
liquorice root with whole peppermint leaves to
create a naturally sweet and refreshing drink
that is irresistibly moreish. This blend is just
lovely brewed cold in a jug with lots of ice as
well as brewed hot. With less than 3 calories
per cup this is the perfect alternative to a
cake! Available nationwide at delis or online.
T: 020 8568 8989
W: www.teapigs.co.uk
10-11 Flavour loves:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:03 Page 11
12
> flavour secret suppers
According to a report on Radio Fours Food
Programme last month, one of the first
unconventional dining clubs dates back as
far as 1934, when a group of young
progressive thinkers established The Half
Hundred Club. Located in Londons Isokon
building, the club was part of a larger
(partly political) agenda to promote a more
communal way of living. Members were
limited to 25 and each could bring along a
guest, possessing no religious or other
taboos or unsociable characteristics which
may impede conversation.
Here was a group of people the countrys
first TV chef Phillip Holborn and The Good
Food Guides creator Raymond Postgate
among them who believed that the way to
change a deeply divided British society was
to make good food and drink available to all,
some of the best conversation and ideas
being forged around the dinner table.
Headed up by iconic designer Jack
Pritchard and wife Molly, the group set out
to challenge the traditional approach and
formality to mealtimes, famously eating an
antelope at an impromptu dinner held in
London Zoo.
Underpinning the entire concept of The Half
Hundred Club however, was the aim to offer
food that was suitable for the epicure of
modest means, a requirement which
Louise Barnard (pictured far right), founder
of the Bristol based Secret Service Supper
Club, thinks is just as important to the
modern equivalents springing up all over
the country: Nowadays people want more
from dining out, whether thats an element
of unpredictability, the chance to meet new
people, or better value for money we can
give them all of those things.
Taking the form of guerrilla get togethers
that are pre-booked by people without any
knowledge of where, what or with whom
theyll be eating, secret supper clubs are
becoming increasingly popular for those
seeking something out of the norm. Its not
a money-making venture in the same way
Secret
Suppers
Nowadays people want
more from dining out,
whether thats an element
of unpredictability, the
chance to meet new
people, or better value
for money.
Exciting though the emerging trend of secret supper clubs
may be for the adventurous epicurean, it seems the dearly
departed Egon Ronay was right in proclaiming that in the
world of food, there really is nothing new under the sun...
12-13 Secret Supper:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:06 Page 12
13
> flavour secret suppers
that restaurants are, says Louise, which
means well still provide the same
standards of food, just without the price
tag. A fair statement with 5 courses plus
canaps and coffee on offer for 25.
Having trained as a chef and practiced her
skills everywhere from Taiwan to Monaco,
Louise returned to Bristol 18 months ago to
continue her passion for cooking a little
closer to home. Yet unable to name drop
well-known UK restaurants as a means to
open doors, she decided instead to close
them: The aim of setting up a secret
supper club was to create a buzz and build
a reputation which were continuing to do
all the time diners often ask to come back
and volunteer at the next event because
they enjoy their experience so much! She
continues: What really keeps us going is
hearing how positive people are about the
whole experience we give them, that were
doing something thats both original and
appreciated.
With plans in the pipeline for collaboration
with circus acts and Halloween suppers
held in a crypt, pushing boundaries is as
much a feature of secret supper clubs as it
was 70 years ago, and this intriguing
phenomenon threatens to put overpriced,
soulless restaurants very much in
perspective...
To find out more about the Secret Service
Supper Club, look them up on Facebook
and Twitter (just be sure to keep it to
yourself!)
A SNEAKY PEEK AT A
Typical M
enu...
Canaps served with elderflower,
ginger and lemongrass cocktails
Mini salmon and cucumber
summer rolls
Jerusalem artichoke, bacon and walnut
pesto crostini
Rocket, potato and lemon soup with
homemade smoked garlic focaccia
Seared free-range duck breast,
pear slices and radicchio salad
Trout roasted with cherry tomatoes
and fennel
Organic, unpasteurised
Double Gloucester and chutney
Chocolate and panettone tiramisu
Coffee
12-13 Secret Supper:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:06 Page 13
>flavour columnist martin blunos
On my forthcoming agenda
I will be doing a couple of
demos for the Vintage at
Goodwood Festival. Its a big
event tracing everything from
fashion and music to lifestyle. The periods
covered are the 1940s right through to the
noughties. I am down to do a couple of
home style classics from the 1950s that
were (apparently) all the rage back then;
rice pudding and goulash. I cant fathom
why Ive been asked to represent the 50s
I must be showing my age. Maybe the
strawberry blonde Viking is turning into a
wheezing silver fox.
This classic period was obviously well
before my time (well okay, only just
before) but those classics have stood the
test of time and would sit happily on any
dinner table now and, saying that, in any
decade previous. Just goes to show that
family favourites prevail.
The set and I will be dressed from the
period. I cant wait, I might go the whole
hog and Brylcreem my hair into a neat
centre parting, wax my tash and wear a
monocle. Either way, itll be fun to go
retro, making and presenting rice pudding
and goulash with my own twist.
As a chef, it is presumptuous of me to
assume that at home everybody knows
how to cook these classic dishes, with
the recipes being handed down from
mother to daughter. But perhaps thats
just not the case. It has got me thinking
that for next years series of food festivals,
Ill go retro. So watch out in 2011 for the
likes of prawn cocktail, chicken in a
basket and Black Forest gateau ah the
good old days when life was peachy!
One of the South Wests most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath,
his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two
Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with
regular slots as guest chef on BBC1s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen,
ITV Daily Cooks and ITVs Saturday Cooks.
This month Martin Blunos steps back
in time to bring back some old family
favourites which never fail to bring a
smile to our faces
15
Ingredients
110g / 4oz short-grain pudding rice
450ml / pint single cream
450ml / pint full-fat milk
55g / 2oz caster sugar
freshly grated nutmeg
1 vanilla pod
25g / 1oz unsalted butter
Pinch of salt
Strawberry jam to serve
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 150C / 300F /
Gas 2 (10 degrees less for a fan oven)
and grease a 1.5 litre/2 pint ovenproof
dish with a little butter.
2 Rinse the rice under cold water and
place in the ovenproof dish. Place the
cream, milk, caster sugar and a
generous grating of nutmeg in a medium
saucepan. Scrape in the seeds of the
vanilla pod and the pinch of salt. Heat
gently until almost simmering, then
remove from the heat and pour over the
rice, stirring well.
3 Dot the butter over the top and place in
the oven for 1 hours, stirring after the
first 30 minutes. If the pudding still
seems very runny, return to the oven,
checking every 10 minutes, until it is
loosely creamy but not runny. The
cooking time will vary, depending on the
type and depth of dish you use.
4 When the pudding is golden brown on
top and has a soft, creamy texture,
remove from the oven and allow to rest
for 10/12 minutes before serving. (It is
like lava when straight from the oven so
beware)
5 After fighting with guests/family over
whos going to get the skin (the best bit)
serve with a generous dollop of
strawberry jam.
RICE PUDDING
GOING RETRO
15 MartinBlunos:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:09 Page 15
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>flavour columnist martin blunos
On my forthcoming agenda
I will be doing a couple of
demos for the Vintage at
Goodwood Festival. Its a big
event tracing everything from
fashion and music to lifestyle. The periods
covered are the 1940s right through to the
noughties. I am down to do a couple of
home style classics from the 1950s that
were (apparently) all the rage back then;
rice pudding and goulash. I cant fathom
why Ive been asked to represent the 50s
I must be showing my age. Maybe the
strawberry blonde Viking is turning into a
wheezing silver fox.
This classic period was obviously well
before my time (well okay, only just
before) but those classics have stood the
test of time and would sit happily on any
dinner table now and, saying that, in any
decade previous. Just goes to show that
family favourites prevail.
The set and I will be dressed from the
period. I cant wait, I might go the whole
hog and Brylcreem my hair into a neat
centre parting, wax my tash and wear a
monocle. Either way, itll be fun to go
retro, making and presenting rice pudding
and goulash with my own twist.
As a chef, it is presumptuous of me to
assume that at home everybody knows
how to cook these classic dishes, with
the recipes being handed down from
mother to daughter. But perhaps thats
just not the case. It has got me thinking
that for next years series of food festivals,
Ill go retro. So watch out in 2011 for the
likes of prawn cocktail, chicken in a
basket and Black Forest gateau ah the
good old days when life was peachy!
One of the South Wests most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath,
his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two
Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with
regular slots as guest chef on BBC1s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen,
ITV Daily Cooks and ITVs Saturday Cooks.
This month Martin Blunos steps back
in time to bring back some old family
favourites which never fail to bring a
smile to our faces
15
Ingredients
110g / 4oz short-grain pudding rice
450ml / pint single cream
450ml / pint full-fat milk
55g / 2oz caster sugar
freshly grated nutmeg
1 vanilla pod
25g / 1oz unsalted butter
Pinch of salt
Strawberry jam to serve
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 150C / 300F /
Gas 2 (10 degrees less for a fan oven)
and grease a 1.5 litre/2 pint ovenproof
dish with a little butter.
2 Rinse the rice under cold water and
place in the ovenproof dish. Place the
cream, milk, caster sugar and a
generous grating of nutmeg in a medium
saucepan. Scrape in the seeds of the
vanilla pod and the pinch of salt. Heat
gently until almost simmering, then
remove from the heat and pour over the
rice, stirring well.
3 Dot the butter over the top and place in
the oven for 1 hours, stirring after the
first 30 minutes. If the pudding still
seems very runny, return to the oven,
checking every 10 minutes, until it is
loosely creamy but not runny. The
cooking time will vary, depending on the
type and depth of dish you use.
4 When the pudding is golden brown on
top and has a soft, creamy texture,
remove from the oven and allow to rest
for 10/12 minutes before serving. (It is
like lava when straight from the oven so
beware)
5 After fighting with guests/family over
whos going to get the skin (the best bit)
serve with a generous dollop of
strawberry jam.
RICE PUDDING
GOING RETRO
15 MartinBlunos:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:09 Page 15
17
> flavour rise and shine
Of all the advice were given by people older and forever wiser, its
hard to deny one particular pearl of wisdom; breakfast is the most
important meal of the day. This month flavour jumps on the breakfast
bandwagon and sets out in search of the tastiest places to start your day.
Sitting on the harbourside opposite the SS Great Britain is
a sandwich shop with a charming difference. Brunels
Buttery is renowned for its character, service and
excellent food. Nowhere else in the city will you find a
sausage sarnie, a bacon butty or slice of homemade cake
as comforting and delicious as here. Also available are
homemade pasties, pies, scones and jam. This little gem
is everlasting proof that it is the little things that bring life
and character to the centre of the city.
T: 01179 291696 Wapping Wharf, BS1 6DS
Brunel

s Buttery
A stone's throw away from the beautiful Bath Abbey, Caf
Retro offers a venue full of character and cosyness.
Renowned for their hearty and delicious breakfasts, you
can chose from full English to continental, from eggs
benedict to a sausage or bacon butty or indeed muesli with
Greek yoghurt and a glass of orange juice. Unwind and
catch up with old friends over the sounds of jazz or maybe
a bit of latin. If you're in more of a hurry then take
advantage of their Retro-to-Go service and enjoy
delicious, freshly prepared food on the go.
T: 01225 339347 W: www.caferetro.co.uk
Souk Kitchen
Middle Eastern market food arrived in
Bristol last month courtesy of Souk
Kitchen. The restaurant offers authentic
street food dishes from all over the
Middle East, served up with a large dose
of the regions famous hospitality and
washed down with a delicious glass of
mint tea! Souk Kitchen is the place to
breakfast on North Street. Choose from
dishes such as shakshouka, a typical
Middle Eastern breakfast of poached
eggs cooked in a sauce of tomatoes,
peppers and onions served hot in the
pan with homemade zatar flatbread.
Alternatively a Souk Omelette or the
more continental French toast might
take your breakfast fancy.
T: 01179 666880
W: www.soukkitchen.co.uk
Wild
Caf
An easygoing caf
with a simple ethos
can be found tucked
in the cobbled
square of Queen
Street, Bath. The
Wild Caf is an establishment with a focus on local,
seasonal and sustainable produce cooked before your
very eyes in an open kitchen. Treat yourself to an all day
breakfast made from local produce or a fruit pancake
stack with seasonal fruit or perhaps even a kedgeree
brunch special with smoked fish from Cornwall will take
your fancy. With fresh, homemade dishes, cooked and
assembled to order with an efficient and friendly service,
this little gem makes your perfect morning start. Open
seven days a week from 8am-6pm during the week.
T: 01225 448673 W: www.wildcafe.co.uk
Caf Retro
16-17 Rise and shine:Layout 1 6/8/10 00:52 Page 17
R
i
s
e
&
S
h
i
n
e
!
16
> flavour rise and shine
R
i
s
e
&
S
h
i
n
e
!
Situated next to the Water Tower, Caf Retreat offers the
most splendid views of the Downs whilst enjoying a leisurely
drink and tasty snack. All the food is freshly prepared from
scratch, using only the finest local produce. With a wide
selection of breakfast treats available including smoked
salmon and poached eggs on a toasted bagel, or a simple
but very scrumptious breakfast bap, you will be more than
spoilt for choice when it comes to kick-starting your day.
Caf Retreat can also be found on Whiteladies Rd and
Victoria St and are available for private hire in the evenings.
T: 01179 238186 W: www.CafeRetreat.co.uk
Caf Retreat
Lockside
Lockside is Bristols waterfront caf offering casual dining
on the edge of the Avon Gorge, with spectacular views of
the Clifton Suspension Bridge. A perfect start to any
morning can be found with the early bird breakfast; a
delicious homemade cooked breakfast including all the
tea and toast you can squeeze in. Other dishes include
smoked salmon and rocket on a toasted bagel as well as
scrambled eggs with griddled ham. Quality is of
paramount importance to the Lockside, cooking the
freshest produce to very high standards.
T: 01179 255800 W: www.lockside.net
Riverside
A firm favourite with Bathonians and visitors alike, the
Riverside is tucked under Pulteney Bridge with spectacular
views of one of Bath's most famous landmarks, Pulteney
Weir. Open seven days a week, they pride themselves on
their winning combination of friendly service, relaxed
atmosphere, sumptuous food and glorious views. The
delicious breakfast menu (served 9.00am-11.30am daily,
from 8.00 am Saturday and Sundays) includes dishes such
as smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels, American
pancakes with bacon and Canadian maple syrup as well as
the classic Riverside breakfast.
T: 01225 480532 W: www.riversidecafebath.co.uk
Placed in the heart of Bath is a
little piece of Paris. Inspired by
the Parisian Cafes of old, the
beautiful terrace allows you to
enjoy your morning coffee in the
sun. There is an extensive
breakfast menu all freshly
cooked to order as well as a
mouthwatering selection of
freshly baked pastries,
croissants and teacakes, and of
course delicious coffee, teas and
freshly squeezed orange juice.
Open for lunch and afternoon
tea and evenings for drinks and
snacks with live music at the
weekends.
T: 01225 447147
W: www.leparisien.co.uk
Le Parisien
16-17 Rise and shine:Layout 1 6/8/10 00:51 Page 16
17
> flavour rise and shine
Of all the advice were given by people older and forever wiser, its
hard to deny one particular pearl of wisdom; breakfast is the most
important meal of the day. This month flavour jumps on the breakfast
bandwagon and sets out in search of the tastiest places to start your day.
Sitting on the harbourside opposite the SS Great Britain is
a sandwich shop with a charming difference. Brunels
Buttery is renowned for its character, service and
excellent food. Nowhere else in the city will you find a
sausage sarnie, a bacon butty or slice of homemade cake
as comforting and delicious as here. Also available are
homemade pasties, pies, scones and jam. This little gem
is everlasting proof that it is the little things that bring life
and character to the centre of the city.
T: 01179 291696 Wapping Wharf, BS1 6DS
Brunel

s Buttery
A stone's throw away from the beautiful Bath Abbey, Caf
Retro offers a venue full of character and cosyness.
Renowned for their hearty and delicious breakfasts, you
can chose from full English to continental, from eggs
benedict to a sausage or bacon butty or indeed muesli with
Greek yoghurt and a glass of orange juice. Unwind and
catch up with old friends over the sounds of jazz or maybe
a bit of latin. If you're in more of a hurry then take
advantage of their Retro-to-Go service and enjoy
delicious, freshly prepared food on the go.
T: 01225 339347 W: www.caferetro.co.uk
Souk Kitchen
Middle Eastern market food arrived in
Bristol last month courtesy of Souk
Kitchen. The restaurant offers authentic
street food dishes from all over the
Middle East, served up with a large dose
of the regions famous hospitality and
washed down with a delicious glass of
mint tea! Souk Kitchen is the place to
breakfast on North Street. Choose from
dishes such as shakshouka, a typical
Middle Eastern breakfast of poached
eggs cooked in a sauce of tomatoes,
peppers and onions served hot in the
pan with homemade zatar flatbread.
Alternatively a Souk Omelette or the
more continental French toast might
take your breakfast fancy.
T: 01179 666880
W: www.soukkitchen.co.uk
Wild
Caf
An easygoing caf
with a simple ethos
can be found tucked
in the cobbled
square of Queen
Street, Bath. The
Wild Caf is an establishment with a focus on local,
seasonal and sustainable produce cooked before your
very eyes in an open kitchen. Treat yourself to an all day
breakfast made from local produce or a fruit pancake
stack with seasonal fruit or perhaps even a kedgeree
brunch special with smoked fish from Cornwall will take
your fancy. With fresh, homemade dishes, cooked and
assembled to order with an efficient and friendly service,
this little gem makes your perfect morning start. Open
seven days a week from 8am-6pm during the week.
T: 01225 448673 W: www.wildcafe.co.uk
Caf Retro
16-17 Rise and shine:Layout 1 6/8/10 00:52 Page 17
The certainty for Old Man Vinces is not
that it opens 365 days a year because it
doesnt; the doors close on Christmas and
Boxing Day. Its not that the menu remains
constant and safe either, because its
frequently updated as and when the powers
that be fancy a change. The certainty
Vincenzos offers is an atmosphere that is
as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily,
and there is a good reason for that - this is a
bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run
restaurant.
The patriarch Vincenzo, and his wife
Teresa set up this little gem 40 years ago
as one of the first Italian restaurants in the
West Country and, but for a gentle tweak
here and there over the decades,
thankfully it hasnt changed that much.
The food is cooked to the same formula
Vince established when he first opened
the kitchen, albeit now by head chef
Guiseppe, a younger member of the
bloodline. The dcor is not Tate Modern, but
if you like postcards on the wall from the
thousands of patrons over the years and
empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the
ceiling, then youll be right at home.
The terrace is a bright, spacious, child-
friendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast
to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen
or so tables towards the reception area, but
both have their merits depending on your
mood.
Vinces daughter Isabella now runs the
show, with help from Guiseppe, Joe, Raff
(pictured right) and one of the old
favourites, Mario - a legend in his own right
but Isabella has stuck to her fathers
principles and kept Vincenzos as a little
community, with a huge and loyal following.
Italians dont suffer fools gladly and they
wont be rushed - life just happens and
works in its own time here but when your
There are many certainties in life death, disappointment, taxes,
the rain in Spain that falls mainly on the plain but according to
Nick Gregory, you can add to that list Vincenzos Pizza House,
situated just off Park Street in the centre of Bristol.
Vi n c en zo s
Pi z z a Ho u se
18
> flavour vincenzos
The certainty for Old Man Vinces is not
that it opens 365 days a year because it
doesnt; the doors close on Christmas and
Boxing Day. Its not that the menu remains
constant and safe either, because its
frequently updated as and when the powers
that be fancy a change. The certainty
Vincenzos offers is an atmosphere that is
as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily,
and there is a good reason for that - this is a
bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run
restaurant.
The patriarch Vincenzo, and his wife
Teresa set up this little gem 40 years ago
as one of the first Italian restaurants in the
West Country and, but for a gentle tweak
here and there over the decades,
thankfully it hasnt changed that much.
The food is cooked to the same formula
Vince established when he first opened
the kitchen, albeit now by head chef
Guiseppe, a younger member of the
bloodline. The dcor is not Tate Modern, but
if you like postcards on the wall from the
thousands of patrons over the years and
empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the
ceiling, then youll be right at home.
The terrace is a bright, spacious, child-
friendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast
to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen
or so tables towards the reception area, but
both have their merits depending on your
mood.
Vinces daughter Isabella now runs the
show, with help from Guiseppe, Joe, Raff
(pictured right) and one of the old
favourites, Mario - a legend in his own right
but Isabella has stuck to her fathers
principles and kept Vincenzos as a little
community, with a huge and loyal following.
Italians dont suffer fools gladly and they
wont be rushed - life just happens and
works in its own time here but when your
food is on the red-striped tablecloth youll
be pleased whatever your order. The pizzas
are as youd like them (without the price tag
of the well-known chains) and the pasta
and breads come in all shapes and sizes.
You will not leave here hungry. Ask for some
of Vinces bread to take home with you too
the missus will be pleased.
Ive been stuck refuelling a boat in the port
of Savona for a night and Ive had a two-
hour stop-off at Romes Leonardo da Vinci
Airport, so I wont pretend Im an aficionado
on everything Italian. But Ill tell you this,
had I disembarked or left duty free I
would have liked to have ended up
somewhere like Vincenzos.
Oh, and heres another certainty,
I will be back. Ciao Bella.
Vincenzos Pizza House
71a Park Street
Bristol
BS1 5PB
01179 260908
www.vincenzos-bristol.co.uk
There are many certainties in life death, disappointment, taxes,
the rain in Spain that falls mainly on the plain but according to
Nick Gregory, you can add to that list Vincenzos Pizza House,
situated just off Park Street in the centre of Bristol.
Vi n c en zo s
Pi z z a Ho u se
18
Vince's pizzas have long been considered the best around for those in the know.
20
> flavour bridge house
Apart from the fortunate few city slickers
who enjoy the best of both worlds, the
dream of swapping a concrete jungle for
green open spaces is commonplace.
If ever realised at all, this pipe dream is
usually reserved for the retirement years.
Not so for Mark and Jo Donovan, whose
previous careers as a television director and
fashion buyer respectively, were worlds
apart from the hoteliers they chose to
become. My job sometimes took me to The
Middle East for weeks at a time, explains
Jo, I absolutely loved what I did, but falling
pregnant called for a change of pace and
lifestyle.
When a thirteenth century hamstone house
came up for sale in the quaint village of
Beaminster where the couple regularly
holidayed, the time seemed right to embark
on a new adventure. The work undertaken
at BridgeHouse was certainly extensive,
beginning with a complete refit of all the
bathrooms and ending with a cosmetic refit
to make an interior designer proud. Vibrant
modern fabrics are tastefully interspersed
throughout the hotel with sympathetic
antique furniture, making BridgeHouse feel
at once cosmopolitan and cosy.
Now lets be under no illusion here: West
Dorset, home of Hugh Fearnley-
Whittingstalls River Cottage near
Axminster, Mark Hixs Oyster and Fish
House in Lyme Regis and Masterchef
winner Mat Follas restaurant The Wild
Garlic (a stones throw from BridgeHouse),
is a culinary haven. And then theres the
produce. The Ruby Red beef, the hand dived
Lyme Bay scallops, Denhays farmhouse
cheddar, and local cider the list is
endless.
With these enviable tools at his disposal,
executive chef Stephen Pielesz is best able
to showcase his Michelin star training,
which he does with notable flair. The menu
at the hotels Beaminster Brasserie, even
for the seasoned gourmand, makes for
interesting reading, with dishes seemingly
constructed to be full of flavour without
being over complicated.
To start, Stephens latest invention of
venison and quail Scotch egg, black
pudding, pea pure and homemade ketchup
(8.95) was as good as it sounds; a
luxurious nod to a British classic.
Given the proximity of the coast, the
panache of local fish, sauted samphire,
vegetable tagliatelle and caviar butter sauce
(19.50) proved irresistible and did not
disappoint. Beautifully poached, the fish
was lifted to dizzy new heights by the
saltiness of its emerald green bedfellow
samphire. Little wonder with an average
turnaround from sea to plate of just 12
hours.
Finally, a caramelised St Clements tart with
Somerset clotted cream (6.50) delivered
three desserts in one; the crunchy top layer
reminiscent of crme brule giving way to a
decadently rich citrus filling, supported by a
buttery biscuit base. Simply delicious.
Theres a palpable sense of pride and care
taken in all aspects of a guests stay at
BridgeHouse, whether its the impeccably
crisp white linen in the bedrooms, or the
extensive hand selected wine list. Should
you feel a little swamped by the choice on
offer, you can be assured of sound advice
from general manager come sommelier
Mark Pielesz. My chosen chalice was a
bottle of Chilean Pinot Noir from the
Casablanca Valley (23.95) one of the best-
structured examples Ive sampled outside
of Burgundy.
If the devil is in the detail, then
BridgeHouse is a damned great way to
simultaneously sample both the rural
charm of Dorset and the exacting standards
of London living. Hats off to Mark and Jo for
making a huge success of their new lives as
the consummate hosts.
This month, flavour takes a trip down to Dorset to visit
BridgeHouse, a small hotel with big aspirations
The BridgeHouse Hotel
Prout Bridge
Beaminster
Dorset
DT8 3AY
01308 862200
www.bridge-house.co.uk
BridgeHouse
20-21 BridgeHouse:Layout 1 6/8/10 10:36 Page 20
Theres a palpable
sense of pride and
care taken in all
aspects of a guests
stay at BridgeHouse,
whether its the
impeccably crisp white
linen in the bedrooms,
or the extensive hand
selected wine list.
20-21 BridgeHouse:Layout 1 6/8/10 10:36 Page 21
23
> flavour ask a chef
If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the
usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com
Q. Whats the best
flavour to go with
squid salad? I made
one recently and
found it quite bland.
Lindsey West,
Wiltshire.
A. Fresh squid is a delight. I open the
squid into a sheet and score the inside
with a knife into a checked pattern and
marinate it in garlic, chilli and olive oil.
To make the salad, I season and grill
the squid. The squid will roll back into a
cylindrical shape and cooks quite
quickly on a hot grill. The squid is then
cut into smaller chunks and dressed
with fresh lemon juice and olive oil.
To finish I add some rocket leaves and
a couple of sun-blushed tomatoes.
Q. How easy is it to make pte?
Maria Plummer, Wells.
A. Pte is fairly easy to make and can
be made from a number of different
meats. Chicken liver pte is certainly
one of my favourites. We add
reduction of Port, Madeira and
Brandy, cooked out with shallots,
garlic and thyme to give a beautiful
depth of flavour. The reduction is
liquidised with 500g of chicken liver,
500g of melted butter and 5
eggs. To ensure a soft
and smooth
consistency, we pass
the mixture through a
very fine sieve and
cook it to 63C.
Ask achef
(?)
R
onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie's Restaurant
in Thornbury. Ron has had a distinguished career working in
some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe,
for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking
for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill
and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus
showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as
the Good Food Guides 'Restaurant of the Year. Ronnies is based in
Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are
available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from
6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
Q. Whats the tastiest way to cook a sweet potato?
Simon Jones, Bath.
A. Sweet potatoes are extremely versatile. Ive
enjoyed them roasted, pureed, turned into soups,
fried and chipped, but a general rule of thumb is
that sweet potatoes can work very well with
spices. One of my favourite comfort foods is a
sweet potato roasted with cumin seeds and
seasoned with chilli flakes. Its something Id do at
home on a Sunday with a big juicy joint.
Ronnie Faulkner
Ronnies Tel: 0800 849 4455
www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Q. I love buying raspberries at this time
of year, can you recommend something
a bit different to make with them?
Matt Kennedy, Totterdown.
A. One of my favorite raspberry dessert is
Cranachan, a Scottish dessert of
raspberries, honey, whipped cream,
whisky and oats. Toast the oats under a
grill and while they are toasting, place
the raspberries in the bottom of a
tumbler, whisk the cream and add the
honey and whisky to taste. Cover the
raspberries with the cream and top with
toasted oats once they have cooled. Its
so simple but the flavours all seem to
work in perfect harmony. If you are into
making ice cream, try using
the same ingredients
with some creme
Anglaise to make
Cranachan ice cream.
Q. Im told that you can eat pork slightly
pink these days, is this true?
Stephen Casey, London.
A. The food standards agency will tell you
the best way to serve pork is cooked
through to avoid risk of illness. Because of
this I cannot advise you to eat pink pork and
very rarely serve prime cuts of pork in the
restaurant. However when I cook at home
I do serve pork loin rosie, the meat is still
hot in the centre, but it is beautifully moist.
I guess its a question of risk and reward.
23 AskAChef:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:19 Page 23
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23
> flavour ask a chef
If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the
usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com
Q. Whats the best
flavour to go with
squid salad? I made
one recently and
found it quite bland.
Lindsey West,
Wiltshire.
A. Fresh squid is a delight. I open the
squid into a sheet and score the inside
with a knife into a checked pattern and
marinate it in garlic, chilli and olive oil.
To make the salad, I season and grill
the squid. The squid will roll back into a
cylindrical shape and cooks quite
quickly on a hot grill. The squid is then
cut into smaller chunks and dressed
with fresh lemon juice and olive oil.
To finish I add some rocket leaves and
a couple of sun-blushed tomatoes.
Q. How easy is it to make pte?
Maria Plummer, Wells.
A. Pte is fairly easy to make and can
be made from a number of different
meats. Chicken liver pte is certainly
one of my favourites. We add
reduction of Port, Madeira and
Brandy, cooked out with shallots,
garlic and thyme to give a beautiful
depth of flavour. The reduction is
liquidised with 500g of chicken liver,
500g of melted butter and 5
eggs. To ensure a soft
and smooth
consistency, we pass
the mixture through a
very fine sieve and
cook it to 63C.
Ask achef
(?)
R
onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie's Restaurant
in Thornbury. Ron has had a distinguished career working in
some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe,
for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking
for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill
and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus
showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as
the Good Food Guides 'Restaurant of the Year. Ronnies is based in
Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are
available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from
6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
Q. Whats the tastiest way to cook a sweet potato?
Simon Jones, Bath.
A. Sweet potatoes are extremely versatile. Ive
enjoyed them roasted, pureed, turned into soups,
fried and chipped, but a general rule of thumb is
that sweet potatoes can work very well with
spices. One of my favourite comfort foods is a
sweet potato roasted with cumin seeds and
seasoned with chilli flakes. Its something Id do at
home on a Sunday with a big juicy joint.
Ronnie Faulkner
Ronnies Tel: 0800 849 4455
www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Q. I love buying raspberries at this time
of year, can you recommend something
a bit different to make with them?
Matt Kennedy, Totterdown.
A. One of my favorite raspberry dessert is
Cranachan, a Scottish dessert of
raspberries, honey, whipped cream,
whisky and oats. Toast the oats under a
grill and while they are toasting, place
the raspberries in the bottom of a
tumbler, whisk the cream and add the
honey and whisky to taste. Cover the
raspberries with the cream and top with
toasted oats once they have cooled. Its
so simple but the flavours all seem to
work in perfect harmony. If you are into
making ice cream, try using
the same ingredients
with some creme
Anglaise to make
Cranachan ice cream.
Q. Im told that you can eat pork slightly
pink these days, is this true?
Stephen Casey, London.
A. The food standards agency will tell you
the best way to serve pork is cooked
through to avoid risk of illness. Because of
this I cannot advise you to eat pink pork and
very rarely serve prime cuts of pork in the
restaurant. However when I cook at home
I do serve pork loin rosie, the meat is still
hot in the centre, but it is beautifully moist.
I guess its a question of risk and reward.
23 AskAChef:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:19 Page 23
24
> flavour valentine warner
When did you realise that good food was
going to become a way of life?
From an early age I was fascinated by all
kitchen goings on and also my mothers
cook books. I seemed to try and understand
the world by trying to cram everything in my
mouth. Although I went on to train as an
artist, switching to cooking was the one of
the clearest and most immediate decisions
of my life.
What are your fondest food memories as a
boy?
Making Sunday breakfast as a family we all
had a little job to do. I was normally on hot
milk and the whole operation was like a
well-oiled machine. My first real cup of
coffee was pretty important too. Whereas
before I had only smelt it, the taste blew me
away at 13 it also made me feel very
grown up. Eating my dads saffron-yellow
prawn curry, my brother and I counted the
prawns in our bowls and only dad was
allowed to have more than us!
Your roots are firmly based in the
countryside, how does that influence your
cooking style?
Theres so much tradition thriving in the
countryside. Youre always aware of the link
between the kitchen, wildlife and farming.
Its the outside brought inside and turned
into something good. Food tends to be more
in touch with the rhythms of nature. Its a
place where Im repeatedly delighted to find
things that I thought were gone forever. I
like a sense of history and simplicity in
cooking and thats often found in regional
country cookbooks.
Did it make you a more adventurous eater?
Being lucky enough to grow up drinking
unpasteurized milk and eating dishes like
Ahead of his visit to Bristol for the Love Cooking Festival, we caught
up with the quirky Valentine Warner to talk TV, travel and tattoos
10 questions with
Valentine Warner
Food tends to be more in touch with the rhythms of
nature. Its a place where Im repeatedly delighted to
find things that I thought were gone forever
24-25 Valentine Warner:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:21 Page 24
25
> flavour valentine warner
jugged hare meant I was never squeamish,
so the mushrooms, berries, rabbits and
trout I was shown would be in a pan in a
flash.
How did you end up with a television
series?
It was a very lengthy process, Optomen
approached me and then screen tested me
for four years. They said youre a little
strange but keep in touch, we got there in
the end though!
Was it daunting being in front of the
camera at first or were you a natural?
It was daunting at first, theres so much to
learn how to get information across to
viewers, making sure you finish your
sentences, looking at the camera etc. Its
not always easy and there were things that I
wish I could have said again, but I really
enjoy it and want to get better.
What have been your most memorable
meals from around the globe?
I have travelled quite a bit, and my parents
were good at taking us out to restaurants on
holiday when we were children. There are
too many good meals to mention, but I
remember eating a very young goat in
Greece that had been cooked in a charcoal
pit as the sun was going down, that was
amazing! We cut the meat and ate with
penknives.
Who do you admire in the foodie world?
Simon Hopkinson his cooking makes so
much sense, with a wonderful respect for
the old stuff. Alistair Little who I learnt
under was the master of shortcuts, and a
truly inspiring chef who helped me to
discover the kind of cooking I wanted to be
involved in. There are so many, and food
writers too like Elizabeth David and Jeremy
Round whose work I could never tire of
reading. The Dock Kitchen, Stevie Parles
new place in West London is amazing too.
If you had to cook a meal that represented
the best of British produce, what would you
choose?
Pork would have to be on the menu, we
should be proud of our pigs. Cheeses would
definitely make the final cut too British
cheeses are so underrated but fantastic.
And to drink it would have to be cider, no
one makes it like we do.
Tell us something about yourself that our
readers wouldn't know unless they met
you in person.
Apart from the tattoo of a giant squid
fighting a whale that covers my back and
arms, theres not really anything which
springs to mind
You can see Valentine Warner
demonstrating alongside Thomasina Miers
and James Martin at the Love Cooking
Festival at the Colston Hall. For more
information, visit
www.lovecookingfestival.com
VALENTINES PEA, SALTED YOGHURT
AND MINT SALAD
This delightfully easy, quick and fresh lunch can be thrown together with peckish
impatience in minutes. Having said that, it does require some strained salted
yoghurt to be on standby.
Serves 23
Ingredients
200g freshly podded peas
1 long red chilli
1 garlic clove
Juice of lemon
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
100g firm homemade salted strained
yoghurt (see page 138) or fresh soft
goats cheese
Flaked sea salt and ground black
pepper
Small handful of fresh mint leaves
Method
1 Bring a small saucepan of water to
the boil. Add the peas and return to the
boil. Cook for 2 minutes. Drain, then
plunge the peas into a large bowl of
iced water and leave until cold.
2 Deseed the chilli and chop into tiny
pieces. Rubber gloves here would be a
wise protection from wandering chilli
fingers. Peel the garlic and cut into tiny
pieces.
3 Drain the peas and put in a serving
bowl. Add the chilli, garlic, lemon juice
and olive oil. Season with salt and
plenty of black pepper and toss
together thoroughly.
4 Break the strained yoghurt (or
cheese) into mouthfuls and scatter over
the peas. Add the mint leaves, roughly
torn. Turn through the peas until lightly
mixed and serve.
24-25 Valentine Warner:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:21 Page 25
26
> flavour youth food
After attending the Slow Food international
congress in Puebla, Mexico in 2007, Katy
Davidson spotted an opportunity in the
already established movement: I found
that there werent enough young people
involved. If you havent got young people
coming through the door then the
movement isnt going to push forward.
The founder of Slow Food International,
Carlo Petrini then set Katy a challenge: to
bring a youth delegation of 1000 young
enthusiasts to Terra Madre, a bi-annual
conference concerning gastronomy,
globalisation and economics.
Katy set to work on her dining room table
armed with a laptop, a list of contacts and
plenty of enthusiasm. It took a year and in
2008 Katy employed over 24 people who
were inspired enough to form a committee
in Londons South Bank. The next aim was
getting it moving across the UK. Our actual
committee is made up of women and
everyone has plenty of flexibility when it
comes to ideas. We do have regional
representatives across the country but
theyre not very active at the moment. What
we are trying to do now is set up regional
groups so they have a framework.
Youth Food is a network of young people
who really want to make a difference in the
food world. The movement engages with
their audience in fun, interactive ways,
looking at social, political and
environmental issues at the same time. At
the heart of Katys credo however is the
importance of reminding people that eating
for a sustainable future is pleasurable. Katy
comments: One of our great focuses is
showing how vital food is within our society.
A family that eats around the table together
is a family that stays together.
Youth Food is run entirely by volunteers,
with all funding coming out of their own
pockets. The programmes that we run
have to be economically viable, for example
Skill Share was a concept I created to
encourage everyday people with specialised
skills and knowledge in particular sectors,
eg farming, to teach others and pass it on.
This programme allows knowledge of
sectors to grow organically. Its peer to peer
and makes things more accessible and
sustainable as well as giving people
confidence in themselves.
Youth Food has been busy forming
partnerships with other similar groups.
Working with the National Federation of
Young Farmers and the UK Climate
Great ideas come from great actions, initiative, dedication and of course,
quite a lot of belief. Katy Davidson, founder of the UK branch of the Youth Food
Movement, epitomises the very essence of such commitment.
Youth Food Movement
Youth Food hand people the key to playing an
active role in the circle of production, taking
back ownership of their food and being involved
personally.
YFM campaigners make their pledge for change
Katy taking part in Skill Share:
Oyster Shucking
26-27 Youth Food:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:23 Page 26
27
> flavour youth food
Coalition has enabled each group to get
their messages out and find out what the
issues are, combining skills, knowledge
and targets, thus opening debate on a
broader spectrum.
Hard work has been paying off for this
enthusiastic team with support coming
from many directions. Katy enthuses:
We won the Dandelion Award for Best
Newcomers from Cooperative and
Sustained Magazine. We also beat Hugh
Fearnely-Whittingstalls Landshare
programme, coming first. This was mind
blowing for us and really proved that our
doing Youth Food work after a normal day
jobs was really worth it.
Support has also come from renowned
chefs such as Oliver Rowe, Valentine
Warner and Artuthur Potts Dawson who
has allowed the Youth Foods headquarters
to be based at The Peoples Supermarket
in London, a members only supermarket
that offers a new way of shopping which
aims to change the way we buy food.
The support has been fantastic as people
can see a real need for this kind of
organisation. Other movements can be
quite narrow in their scope with regards to
food, we are the opposite and thats what
sets us apart. Katy continues: People
really enjoy us because we are so engaging
in public events. For example our pledge
blankets let people get involved in a happy
and creative way. Anyone can make a
pledge, creating the first steps for change.
The challenges have been simple ones
money and geography. With the project
being entirely self-funded, the team is
excited about achieving charitable status
and thus enabling to pay volunteers a
salary as well as enabling regional
committees the freedom and materials to
expand.
Youth Food hand people the key to playing
an active role in the circle of production,
taking back ownership of their food and
being involved personally. The dedication,
creativeness and resourcefulness of this
team are more than enough of a motivator
to dig out our own felt tip pens and make a
pledge to a more secure future for food.
W: www.youthfoodmovement.org.uk
T:07813792968
Eat-In Hyde Park: people
gathering to share a home-
cooked meal. The idea
originated in the USA, 2008
26-27 Youth Food:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:24 Page 27
The setting of the Richmond is unique and special and provides the
perfect location for enjoying long relaxing evenings soaking up the
sunshine in our South facing garden. A perfect little getaway to meet
up with friends, savour our seasonally inspired food, fine wines, real
ales, local cider and European beers whilst dining Al Fresco.
7 Richmond Place, Bath BA1 5PZ
www.therichmond.co.uk
Opening hours
Monday Thursday, 12 3 and 5.30 11
Friday and Saturday, 12 3 snd 5.30 12
Sunday 12 10.30
Lunch menu from 12.00 2.30, Monday to Saturday
Dinner menu from 6.00 9.30, Monday to Saturday
Sunday lunch from 12.30 6
THE
RICHMOND
29 Chequers/Richmond:P.52 5/8/10 22:29 Page 1
A beautiful Cotswold stone
house overlooking Stanton Lake
and park in beautiful Wiltshire
countryside
Rosemary Restaurant
Japanese Sunday buffet lunch
All you can eat dinner on
Thursdays
Japanese la carte menu
Afternoon cream tea
on the patio
The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD
Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857
Email: restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
Stanton House Hotel Stanton House Hotel
www. s t ant onhous e. c o. uk
28 Stanton:P.52 6/8/10 00:26 Page 1
The setting of the Richmond is unique and special and provides the
perfect location for enjoying long relaxing evenings soaking up the
sunshine in our South facing garden. A perfect little getaway to meet
up with friends, savour our seasonally inspired food, fine wines, real
ales, local cider and European beers whilst dining Al Fresco.
7 Richmond Place, Bath BA1 5PZ
www.therichmond.co.uk
Opening hours
Monday Thursday, 12 3 and 5.30 11
Friday and Saturday, 12 3 snd 5.30 12
Sunday 12 10.30
Lunch menu from 12.00 2.30, Monday to Saturday
Dinner menu from 6.00 9.30, Monday to Saturday
Sunday lunch from 12.30 6
THE
RICHMOND
29 Chequers/Richmond:P.52 5/8/10 22:29 Page 1
31
> flavour long shelf life
As part of a new series,
Helen Aurelius-Haddock
takes a closer look at the
culinary classics that
should be adorning every
cooks bookshelf...
LONG
SHELF
LIFE...
How many of us have decided to knock up
a soup from a few tired vegetables and a
salty stock cube, only to be faced with a
resultant grey sludge that appears to be
inedible? I suspect most. It seems we all
believe that if we can cook, ergo we can
make soup. This is simply not so.
The soup makers art is indeed a specialist
area. Based on one of the sacred tenets of
cooking, namely stock, its very essence and
taste come from a standpoint that a little
advance preparation is necessary if we are
going to enjoy eating it. Stocks are the
serious currency underpinning each book,
and it is clear that without this vital base
ingredient, soup is unlikely to please. Stock
cubes are most certainly not on the agenda
here.
To date, Covent Garden Soup Co. have
produced four charming ring-bound books
with faithful reproductions of the soups they
sell, plus a whole host of other soupy
goodies. Written in a hand fashioned font,
they are evocative of the personal kitchen
diary of any keen cook who wants to
scribble down a favourite dish in order to
preserve it for future reproduction.
Given that this month we are featuring four
books, it does beg a question: Is there really
that much to write about soup to fill them
all? Simply put, yes there is. Soup is a
varied feast in both flavour and texture,
from clear broths to a thick and chunky
potage. Like their product range, the Covent
Garden team have evolved and the later
books contain bean combos, breads,
garnishes and savoury butters. Even
moules marinire make an appearance,
supposedly as they can fit onto a soup plate,
who knows?
Inside, there are no glossy shots of antique
tureens amid retro cookware, or food styled
shots of croutons, bisques and the like. Just
a few sketches here and there to add a bit of
thematic context to a chapter or recipe.
To compensate, theres lots of newsy
snippets and witty quotations making the
books a treat to read for their own sakes.
Recipes are introduced often via the person
who gave it. Scottish grandmothers, retired
teachers, Valentina Harris, Iris Guilloux
from Biarritz, a nameless Iranian ex-patriot,
and Anna from the sales department all
make a contribution. Torn out cuttings from
dog-eared magazines and yellowed
newspapers kept and cherished for years in
kitchen drawers make an appearance.
Theres even an alphabetical listing of the
soups in the back where notes on variations
can be made. The result? A veritable
cornucopia of soups to provide something
for every taste.
The bewildering array of choice can be a bit
intimidating, but why not try one recipe
from each chapter from The Book Of Soups,
and choose the flavours that you find most
appealing? For my money this worked very
well, and at one point, I felt quite confident
that I could set up in competition with my
carrot and coriander and spinach with
nutmeg creations, save the issues with
copyright infringement that is. From there,
dabble with the others to your hearts
desire.
If coffee table cookbooks are your thing,
then perhaps these modest books might not
hold an initial appeal. However, with a bit of
patient reading and a touch
ofexperimenting, you will soon be hooked
on soup making and the evidence will no
doubt be duly spattered over the books
pages as culinary proof. I suspect they will
take pride of place on the kitchen shelf for
many years to come.
It seems we all
believe that if we can
cook, ergo we can
make soup. This is
simply not so.
31 Long Shelf Life:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:30 Page 31
Lucknam Park, Colerne,
Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ
Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777
reservations@lucknampark.co.uk
www.lucknampark.co.uk
AL FRYCD
DINING
THIS SUMMER
AT LUCKNAM
The Brasserie for stylish and contemporary
dining. Using locally sourced fresh ingredients,
our executive chef Hywel Jones has created
an innovative 2 course set menu for 16.
Available Monday to Friday, 12 to 3pm.
And available every evening 3 course
set dinner menu for just 27 per person.
For reservations please call 01225 740575.

56 - ads (q7):Layout 1 6/7/10 19:45 Page 1


> flavour food from the sun
Make every day a holiday
with these mouthwatering
recipes from Irelands best
loved chef Neven Maguire...
Food from the Sun
33
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:27 Page 33
34
> flavour food from the sun
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil
1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
4 Swiss or ruby chard leaves, tough
stalks removed (if unavailable, use 100g
(4oz) tender young spinach leaves)
200g (7oz) ricotta cheese
1 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves
24 wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen
1-2 tbsp plain flour for dusting
Egg wash (1 full egg with 1 tbsp milk), for
brushing
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
25g (1oz) Parmesan, pared into shavings
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and
saut the onion and garlic for about 5
minutes until softened but not browned.
Remove and set aside. Add the chard and
cook for 2-3 minutes until just wilted,
stirring regularly. Remove from the heat,
drain and leave to cool completely.
2 Squeeze out any excess moisture from
the chard mixture, then finely chop. Place
in a bowl with the reserved onion and stir
in the ricotta and basil. Season to taste
and mix well to combine.
3 Place 12 wonton wrappers on a lightly
floured work surface and spoon a heaped
teaspoon of the chard mixture into the
centre of each one. Brush around the
edges with a little egg wash, then
carefully cover with the remaining
wonton wrappers, pressing gently to
shape into ravioli. You can use a small
fluted cutter to shape each ravioli if you
wish, discarding the leftover scraps of
wonton pastry.
4 To cook the ravioli, bring a large
saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add
the ravioli and simmer for about two
minutes until just cooked through and
floating at the top of the pan. Drain well
and arrange on warmed plates. Drizzle
over the extra-virgin olive oil and scatter
over the wild rocket, then sprinkle the
toasted pine nuts and Parmesan
shavings on top.
SWISS CHARD AND RICOTTA RAVIOLI WITH
PARMESAN SHAVINGS AND TOASTED PINE NUTS
This dish will look as if you have gone to the trouble of making your own pasta. Instead,
the secret is to use wonton wrappers, which can be found in Oriental supermarkets.
However, the ravioli do need to be made fresh and dont benefit from hanging around.
I love travelling. Every
January my wife Amelda and
I head away to far-flung
places. In recent years we have been to
Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Australia, Bali and
the USA. And wherever we go I love to
sample the local food tasty Thai noodles,
rich Moroccan tagines, spicy Mexican food,
delicious Italian pasta, fresh Greek salads
and so much more. There are many
wonderful new tastes, flavours and
ingredients out there to discover.
I also enjoy visiting the local markets, such
as the amazing Sineu village in Palma,
Mallorca. There is a lot of pleasure to be
had in finding exotic vegetables, rifling
through enormous sacks of spices and
sampling local cheeses and meats. And I
love to get down to the ports to see the
boats coming in and the freshest fish on
offer. I wanted to draw on some of these
holiday moments with
recipes based on dishes
I enjoyed abroad
for you to cook at home.
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:33 Page 34
35
This is so simple to make and the vivid
colours and intense flavours make it an
impressive dish to serve to guests. The
marinated beetroot will keep for up to two
weeks in the fridge.
It is best to wear a pair of rubber gloves
when preparing the beetroot, to avoid
staining your hands. Trim the tops off the
beetroots and then peel them with a knife.
Using a mandolin or very sharp knife,
carefully slice each beetroot as thinly as
possible. Youll need 24 even-sized round
slices in total.
Ingredients
2 large raw beetroots
450ml (15fl oz) red wine
100ml (31/2 fl oz) ruby red port
2 tbsp crme de cassis (optional)
225g (8oz) soft goats cheese,
any rind removed
3 tbsp basil oil
1 tsp snipped fresh chives
4 tsp balsamic syrup
1 punnet of salad cress
1 small Granny Smith apple
4 tsp toasted pine nuts
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
1 Place the red wine in a large pan along
with the port, crme de cassis (if using) and
the sugar. Bring to the boil, then add the
thinly sliced beetroot and cook for 8-10
minutes or until just cooked through. Leave
to cool in the cooking syrup, then place in
the fridge overnight if time allows. Once
marinated, drain the beetroot well and
reserve the syrup to use again for poaching
pears or plums or for marinating more
beetroot.
2 Place the goats cheese in a food
processor with 2 tablespoons of the basil oil
and blend until soft. Stir in the chives and
add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon into a
piping bag fitted with a 2.5 cm (1in) plain
nozzle and chill for 10 minutes to help the
mixture to firm up.
3 Immediately before serving, core the
apple and shred into very fine strips. Drizzle
each plate with a little balsamic syrup and
arrange three slices of beetroot next to
each other on top. Pipe the creamed goat's
cheese onto the centre of each of
beetroot, then carefully place into the
centre of each portion of beetroot, carefully
placing another slice on top of each. Cut the
salad cress with scissors and scatter on top
with the apple strips and pine nuts, then
drizzle over the remaining basil oil.
> flavour food from the sun
BEETROOT CARPACCIO WITH CREAMED GOATS CHEESE
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:33 Page 35
34
> flavour food from the sun
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil
1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
4 Swiss or ruby chard leaves, tough
stalks removed (if unavailable, use 100g
(4oz) tender young spinach leaves)
200g (7oz) ricotta cheese
1 tbsp torn fresh basil leaves
24 wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen
1-2 tbsp plain flour for dusting
Egg wash (1 full egg with 1 tbsp milk), for
brushing
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
25g (1oz) Parmesan, pared into shavings
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and
saut the onion and garlic for about 5
minutes until softened but not browned.
Remove and set aside. Add the chard and
cook for 2-3 minutes until just wilted,
stirring regularly. Remove from the heat,
drain and leave to cool completely.
2 Squeeze out any excess moisture from
the chard mixture, then finely chop. Place
in a bowl with the reserved onion and stir
in the ricotta and basil. Season to taste
and mix well to combine.
3 Place 12 wonton wrappers on a lightly
floured work surface and spoon a heaped
teaspoon of the chard mixture into the
centre of each one. Brush around the
edges with a little egg wash, then
carefully cover with the remaining
wonton wrappers, pressing gently to
shape into ravioli. You can use a small
fluted cutter to shape each ravioli if you
wish, discarding the leftover scraps of
wonton pastry.
4 To cook the ravioli, bring a large
saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add
the ravioli and simmer for about two
minutes until just cooked through and
floating at the top of the pan. Drain well
and arrange on warmed plates. Drizzle
over the extra-virgin olive oil and scatter
over the wild rocket, then sprinkle the
toasted pine nuts and Parmesan
shavings on top.
SWISS CHARD AND RICOTTA RAVIOLI WITH
PARMESAN SHAVINGS AND TOASTED PINE NUTS
This dish will look as if you have gone to the trouble of making your own pasta. Instead,
the secret is to use wonton wrappers, which can be found in Oriental supermarkets.
However, the ravioli do need to be made fresh and dont benefit from hanging around.
I love travelling. Every
January my wife Amelda and
I head away to far-flung
places. In recent years we have been to
Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Australia, Bali and
the USA. And wherever we go I love to
sample the local food tasty Thai noodles,
rich Moroccan tagines, spicy Mexican food,
delicious Italian pasta, fresh Greek salads
and so much more. There are many
wonderful new tastes, flavours and
ingredients out there to discover.
I also enjoy visiting the local markets, such
as the amazing Sineu village in Palma,
Mallorca. There is a lot of pleasure to be
had in finding exotic vegetables, rifling
through enormous sacks of spices and
sampling local cheeses and meats. And I
love to get down to the ports to see the
boats coming in and the freshest fish on
offer. I wanted to draw on some of these
holiday moments with
recipes based on dishes
I enjoyed abroad
for you to cook at home.
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:33 Page 34
36
> flavour food from the sun
This one-pot wonder gives maximum
flavour with minimum effort and is
guaranteed to wake up your taste buds. If
you dont have a suitable casserole dish,
just use a large saut pan, then transfer to
a roasting tin and cover loosely with foil.
Make sure you buy raw chorizo for this dish,
which will impart lots of flavour to the rice
as it cooks.
Serves 4
Ingredients
300g jar of artichoke hearts in olive oil (or
400g can of artichoke hearts in brine)
25g (10oz) butter
4 chicken breast fillets, with skin on
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
100g (4oz) raw chorizo sausage,
peeled and sliced
350g (12oz long grain rice)
150ml (5fl oz) dry white wine
600ml (1 pint) chicken stock
2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley
Salt an freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 180C (350F), gas
mark 4. Drain the oil from the jar of
artichokes and add 1 tablespoon to a
casserole dish with a lid. Add half the butter
and place on the hob to heat. Season the
chicken breasts, add to the dish, skin side
down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until lightly
browned. Turn over and cook for another
minute or so until sealed. Transfer to a
plate and set aside.
2 Add another tablespoon of the drained
artichoke oil to the dish together with the
remaining butter, then tip in onion and
garlic. Saut for 2-3 minutes until softened
but not browned. Add the chorizo and rice
and cook for another 2 minutes, stirring
regularly until the chorizo has begun to
release its oil and all the rice grains are
well coated.
3 Pour the wine into the dish, stirring to
combine, then add the stock and fold in the
artichokes. Arrange the chicken on top,
pushing the breasts down into the rice.
Cover with the lid and bake for 35-40
minutes until al the liquid has been
absorbed and the chicken and rice are
cooked through and tender. Scatter over the
parsley and place directly on the table to
serve.
CHICKEN AND CHORIZO RICE BAKE
The food we eat is constantly changing and developing, with ever increasing ranges
of exotic ingredients, excellent fresh food, and great specialist stores popping up
everywhere. Those holiday flavours no longer have to be a just a distant memory...
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:33 Page 36
> flavour food from the sun
The passionfruit in this tart adds fragrance
as well as zing crisp and caramelised on
the outside; it has a sweet, smooth and
zesty centre.
Serves 8
Ingredients
100g (4oz) butter, diced
175g (6oz) plain flour, sifted, plus extra
for dusting
pinch of salt
50g (2oz) caster sugar
1 egg yolk
tbsp double cream
Egg wash (I full egg with 1 tbsp milk),
for brushing
25g (10oz) icing sugar, to brle (optional)
Fresh mint sprigs, to decorate
Lightly whipped cream, to serve
For the raspberry sauce:
100g (4oz) raspberries, plus extra to
decorate
1tsp icing sugar
For the filling:
5 eggs
175g (6oz) caster sugar
Finely grated rind and juice of 2 lemons
6 passionfruit, halved and pulp scooped out
225ml (8fl oz) double cream
1 To make the pastry, place the butter,
flour, salt and sugar in a food processor and
blend for about 10 seconds until the mixture
resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg
yolk and cream and mix again briefly. Do not
over-work or the pastry will be tough. Bring
the pastry together into a ball and wrap in
clingfilm, then place in the fridge for at
least 3-4 hours to firm up.
2 To make the raspberry sauce, blend the
raspberries and icing sugar in a food
processor for 1 minute. Pass through a
sieve into a bowl, cover with clingfilm and
keep chilled until ready to serve.
3 Preheat the oven to 180C (350F), gas
mark 4. When the pastry is chilled, roll out
on a lightly floured work surface and use to
line a 20cm (8in) diameter flan ring. Cover
with foil, then fill with baking beans and
bake blind for about 20 minutes until the
pastry is golden brown. Remove from the
oven; discard the baking beans and the foil
and brush the warm
pastry case with egg
wash.
4 Reduce the oven
temperature to 160C
(325F), gas mark 3. To make the filling,
combine the eggs in a large bowl with the
sugar, lemon rind and passionfruit pulp,
then stir in the lemon juice and cream. Blitz
with a hand-held blender, then pass
through a sieve into a jug. This extracts as
much flavour from the passionfruit as
possible.
5 Pour the mixture into the pre-baked
pastry case. Bake for 30-40 minutes until
set and slightly wobbly in the centre. Turn
off the heat and leave the tart to cool
completely in the oven.
6 The tart can be served as it is, or you can
brown the top by coating heavily with icing
sugar, and putting briefly under a very hot
preheated grill, or blasting with a chef blow
torch. Place a slice of tart on each plate, dot
some raspberry sauce to the side and
decorate with raspberries and fresh mint.
Serve with lightly whipped cream.
PASSION FRUIT TART
Award-winning chef Neven Maguire is a
celebrated name in cookery. He began
cooking at the age of 12 in his familys
restaurant, before gaining experience in
Michelin-starred kitchens throughout
Europe. He is now the proprietor and head
chef of MacNean House & Restaurant in
County Cavan. Neven has appeared on
many international TV programmes and is
the author of five cookbooks.
Food from the Sun is available at
all good bookshops. Published by Harper
Collins. RRP 14.99
37
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:33 Page 37
36
> flavour food from the sun
This one-pot wonder gives maximum
flavour with minimum effort and is
guaranteed to wake up your taste buds. If
you dont have a suitable casserole dish,
just use a large saut pan, then transfer to
a roasting tin and cover loosely with foil.
Make sure you buy raw chorizo for this dish,
which will impart lots of flavour to the rice
as it cooks.
Serves 4
Ingredients
300g jar of artichoke hearts in olive oil (or
400g can of artichoke hearts in brine)
25g (10oz) butter
4 chicken breast fillets, with skin on
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
100g (4oz) raw chorizo sausage,
peeled and sliced
350g (12oz long grain rice)
150ml (5fl oz) dry white wine
600ml (1 pint) chicken stock
2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley
Salt an freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 180C (350F), gas
mark 4. Drain the oil from the jar of
artichokes and add 1 tablespoon to a
casserole dish with a lid. Add half the butter
and place on the hob to heat. Season the
chicken breasts, add to the dish, skin side
down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until lightly
browned. Turn over and cook for another
minute or so until sealed. Transfer to a
plate and set aside.
2 Add another tablespoon of the drained
artichoke oil to the dish together with the
remaining butter, then tip in onion and
garlic. Saut for 2-3 minutes until softened
but not browned. Add the chorizo and rice
and cook for another 2 minutes, stirring
regularly until the chorizo has begun to
release its oil and all the rice grains are
well coated.
3 Pour the wine into the dish, stirring to
combine, then add the stock and fold in the
artichokes. Arrange the chicken on top,
pushing the breasts down into the rice.
Cover with the lid and bake for 35-40
minutes until al the liquid has been
absorbed and the chicken and rice are
cooked through and tender. Scatter over the
parsley and place directly on the table to
serve.
CHICKEN AND CHORIZO RICE BAKE
The food we eat is constantly changing and developing, with ever increasing ranges
of exotic ingredients, excellent fresh food, and great specialist stores popping up
everywhere. Those holiday flavours no longer have to be a just a distant memory...
33-37 Food from the sun:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:33 Page 36
39
> flavour organic food festival
38
organic
food festival
Its a Saturday in early September, 2001 and Bristols
Watershed is filling with people...
The crowd, mostly locals from Bristol and
the surrounding area, is gathering for the
first ever Organic Food Festival and will
meet a unique group of producers who are
paving the way for a more sustainable
future. From cheese makers, organic meat
and dairy farms to organic clothing and
beauty products, the 4,500 visitors are
united in their love of one thing organic
produce.
The Organic Food Festival, now in its 10th
year, has come a long way since the
weekend in late Summer 2001 but the love
of food with a good provenance still
remains. As with most successful events,
they are set up by people who have a
genuine love and passion for what it is
theyre representing. This was certainly true
for Sally Packer, who was responsible for
taking the Organic Food Festival to Bristol
and ably organising it for the first few years
of its life with her company, Creativity
Events.
Ive always organised events that I held a
true passion for. The Organic Food Festival
in Bristol actually evolved from the London
based one at Crystal Palace. A lot of the
producers who were exhibiting there were
from the South West and it made far more
sense to hold something to celebrate the
work that we were all doing in the context of
a city closer to where we were actually
based.
The celebrations have certainly continued in
style and over the decade the popularity of
organic has surged. In its inaugural year the
festival was host to around 4,500 visitors.
This has increased exponentially with this
year's festival expecting more than 20,000
over the course of the weekend. Now held
at the Bristol Harbourside to accommodate
the number of visitors, it is regarded as a
must-visit event for any foodie's diary.
Along with the surge in interest has been a
rapid increase in the attractions on offer at
the festival. This year, organiser Philip
Lowery of Real Food Festival fame, is
offering a wider range of produce than ever
before at the Food Market. Here, visitors
can look, taste and buy from stalls offering
some of the best organic produce you can
find in the UK. The focus isn't solely on food
either organic health and beauty and
textiles each have their own pavilions, and
the Kids Taste Experience tent will
encourage children to think about how their
food is made by offering butter making,
seed planting and bread baking workshops.
Over the years, chefs including Jamie
Oliver, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and
Sophie Grigson have given their support to
the organic movement. This year, visitors
can expect to see a host of celebrity chefs
including Barney Haughton, Oliver Rowe
and Geetie Singh who will impart their
culinary wisdom in the Chef Demo Kitchen.
The festival also receives sponsorship from
leading organic producers Yeo Valley, who
have supported the festival since the early
years when it was a fledgling foodie event .
In the last few years, the festival has
acquired a new level of recognition,
becoming part of the Soil Association's
Organic Fortnight and taking the accolade
of Europe's biggest celebration of organic.
Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil
Association is one of the few people who
has witnessed the transition: Looking back
over the ten years since the Organic Food
Festival began, organic production has
grown from niche to mainstream and is very
much established as part of the sustainable
food and farming debate. As well as
providing a fun weekend for families and
friends, the festival helps to demonstrate
how organic production is part of the
solution to the challenges of climate change
and increased stresses on our
environment.
This years 10th anniversary will without
doubt be a particularly special year for the
festival organisers and producers offering
everyone the chance to celebrate their
achievements. Promising to be a family
friendly outing perfect for all, one thing is
for certain: there couldn't be a better time
to pay the festival a visit.
The Organic Food Festival is on Saturday
September 11 (10am-6pm) and Sunday
September 12 (10am-5pm) at Bristol
Harbourside. Tickets cost 5, with free
entry for children and Soil Association
members. Visit
www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more
information. The event is being organised
by the Real Food Festivals Ltd, in
association with the Soil Association.
Retracing its grass roots...
Celebrating 10 years of Europes
largest organic event...
39
> flavour organic food festival
38
organic
food festival
Its a Saturday in early September, 2001 and Bristols
Watershed is filling with people...
The crowd, mostly locals from Bristol and
the surrounding area, is gathering for the
first ever Organic Food Festival and will
meet a unique group of producers who are
paving the way for a more sustainable
future. From cheese makers, organic meat
and dairy farms to organic clothing and
beauty products, the 4,500 visitors are
united in their love of one thing organic
produce.
The Organic Food Festival, now in its 10th
year, has come a long way since the
weekend in late Summer 2001 but the love
of food with a good provenance still
remains. As with most successful events,
they are set up by people who have a
genuine love and passion for what it is
theyre representing. This was certainly true
for Sally Packer, who was responsible for
taking the Organic Food Festival to Bristol
and ably organising it for the first few years
of its life with her company, Creativity
Events.
Ive always organised events that I held a
true passion for. The Organic Food Festival
in Bristol actually evolved from the London
based one at Crystal Palace. A lot of the
producers who were exhibiting there were
from the South West and it made far more
sense to hold something to celebrate the
work that we were all doing in the context of
a city closer to where we were actually
based.
The celebrations have certainly continued in
style and over the decade the popularity of
organic has surged. In its inaugural year the
festival was host to around 4,500 visitors.
This has increased exponentially with this
year's festival expecting more than 20,000
over the course of the weekend. Now held
at the Bristol Harbourside to accommodate
the number of visitors, it is regarded as a
must-visit event for any foodie's diary.
Along with the surge in interest has been a
rapid increase in the attractions on offer at
the festival. This year, organiser Philip
Lowery of Real Food Festival fame, is
offering a wider range of produce than ever
before at the Food Market. Here, visitors
can look, taste and buy from stalls offering
some of the best organic produce you can
find in the UK. The focus isn't solely on food
either organic health and beauty and
textiles each have their own pavilions, and
the Kids Taste Experience tent will
encourage children to think about how their
food is made by offering butter making,
seed planting and bread baking workshops.
Over the years, chefs including Jamie
Oliver, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and
Sophie Grigson have given their support to
the organic movement. This year, visitors
can expect to see a host of celebrity chefs
including Barney Haughton, Oliver Rowe
and Geetie Singh who will impart their
culinary wisdom in the Chef Demo Kitchen.
The festival also receives sponsorship from
leading organic producers Yeo Valley, who
have supported the festival since the early
years when it was a fledgling foodie event .
In the last few years, the festival has
acquired a new level of recognition,
becoming part of the Soil Association's
Organic Fortnight and taking the accolade
of Europe's biggest celebration of organic.
Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil
Association is one of the few people who
has witnessed the transition: Looking back
over the ten years since the Organic Food
Festival began, organic production has
grown from niche to mainstream and is very
much established as part of the sustainable
food and farming debate. As well as
providing a fun weekend for families and
friends, the festival helps to demonstrate
how organic production is part of the
solution to the challenges of climate change
and increased stresses on our
environment.
This years 10th anniversary will without
doubt be a particularly special year for the
festival organisers and producers offering
everyone the chance to celebrate their
achievements. Promising to be a family
friendly outing perfect for all, one thing is
for certain: there couldn't be a better time
to pay the festival a visit.
The Organic Food Festival is on Saturday
September 11 (10am-6pm) and Sunday
September 12 (10am-5pm) at Bristol
Harbourside. Tickets cost 5, with free
entry for children and Soil Association
members. Visit
www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk for more
information. The event is being organised
by the Real Food Festivals Ltd, in
association with the Soil Association.
Retracing its grass roots...
Celebrating 10 years of Europes
largest organic event...
> flavour organic food festival
Bart Spices
We have exhibited at the Organic
Food Festival for many years. Its a
great way for us to speak to local
consumers but also highlights our
organic credentials which we are
extremely proud of. Our Bart
Delicatessen range is a vibrant and
exciting range of organic
ingredients that helps recreate
many wonderful dishes from
around the world. We have
sampled many cuisines to find and
select the best ingredients,
resulting in a collection that is
vibrant, aromatic and intense.
This year we will be bringing our
range of Bart Fairtrade Organic
Spices which we introduced this
summer. There are thirteen
products in the range which
include Cinnamon, Cardamom,
Ground Cloves & Black
Peppercorns.
T: 0117 9773474
W: www.bartspices.com
Vinceremos
Organic Wines
Celebrating our 25th birthday this year,
Vinceremos are the UKs longest established
organic wine importers, offering a
comprehensive range of the best organic
drinks available. We have been enthusiastic
exhibitors at The Organic Food Festival since
it began. Our range includes over 300 organic
and Fairtrade wines from around the world,
with many award-winners. We stock British
and European organic beers, ciders and
delicious juices. We also have Fairtrade and
organic liqueurs and spirits. We offer a
friendly and efficient service, nationwide.
T: 0800 107 3086
W: www.vinceremos.co.uk
Rathbone Greenbank
Investments
Rathbone Greenbank Investments is pleased to continue its
support of the Organic Food Festival and we will again be
offering free organic apples and a prize raffle to visitors to
our stand! As specialists in ethical investment for private
clients, charities and trusts we are constantly seeking to
find companies whose activities and ethos are aligned with
those of our clients. For us and many of our clients, the
production of fairtrade and organic products is an area of
keen interest, and we have made a number of
investments in support of companies engaged
in these activities. The festival is a lively
reminder of why we do it!
T: 0117 930 3000
W: www.rathbonegreenbank.com
visit our
stand for
your FREE
organic
apple!
40
38-43 OrganicFoodFest:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:34 Page 40
> flavour organic food festival
Simon Weaver Organics
Simon Weavers delicious Cotswold Brie is made at
Kirkham Farm at Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds. The
milk comes exclusively from the farms organic herd of
Friesians which contentedly graze the banks of the River
Dikler. No fertilizers or chemicals are used on the farm
and the cheese is made from milk that is never more
than an hour or so old. This freshness is reflected in the
clean, fresh and creamy taste.
As well as Cotswold Brie, Cotswold Blue and
Cotswold Herb, which have been in production
for 6 years, there will soon be a Mozzarella and
a Greek Style cheese to try. The cheese will
be the first farm made, organic cows
milk Mozzarella produced in the UK.
T: 01451 870852
W: www.simonweaver.net
Trethowans Dairy
Trethowan's Dairy make Gorwydd Caerphilly. Inspired by
simplicity and the desire to do one thing well, we make
one cheese and sell only a handful in our shop made or
matured by friends. Todd visits the farms every fortnight
to bring back the freshest cheeses to Bristol. At the
Organic Festival, we will be showcasing the wonderful
Stichelton, the distinctively buttery Hafod and the
deliciously creamy Finn.
T: 0117 902 0332
W: www.trethowansdairy.co.uk
Ashridge Cider
We have made our name by making high quality
champagne method ciders. Our Vintage Sparkling
Cider has won a gold award at the Great Taste Awards
for the last three years running. All of our orchards
became fully organic last September and we have now
embarked on full organic production. In addition to cider,
we have recently brought out the first drinks in a range
of organic soft drinks. We cant wait to exhibit our full
range of organic drinks at the festival, including draught
cider, bottled vintage cider, sparkling apple juice and a
delicious sparkling elderflower press.
T: 01364 654749
W: www.ashridgecider.co.uk
41
The Organic Spirits Co.
The Organic Food Festival is one of the
highlights of our year. A great mix of existing
customers, foodies, environmentalists,
vegetarians, vegans, and many friends from
the thriving world of organic food and drink.
Many visit us to enjoy our world solus
Fairtrade and Organic Papagayo Rums, or
to savour UK5 Organic Vodka or muse over
the delicious flavours of Highland Harvest
Organic Scotch.
T: 01483 894650
W: www.junipergreen.org.
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> flavour organic food festival
Bart Spices
We have exhibited at the Organic
Food Festival for many years. Its a
great way for us to speak to local
consumers but also highlights our
organic credentials which we are
extremely proud of. Our Bart
Delicatessen range is a vibrant and
exciting range of organic
ingredients that helps recreate
many wonderful dishes from
around the world. We have
sampled many cuisines to find and
select the best ingredients,
resulting in a collection that is
vibrant, aromatic and intense.
This year we will be bringing our
range of Bart Fairtrade Organic
Spices which we introduced this
summer. There are thirteen
products in the range which
include Cinnamon, Cardamom,
Ground Cloves & Black
Peppercorns.
T: 0117 9773474
W: www.bartspices.com
Vinceremos
Organic Wines
Celebrating our 25th birthday this year,
Vinceremos are the UKs longest established
organic wine importers, offering a
comprehensive range of the best organic
drinks available. We have been enthusiastic
exhibitors at The Organic Food Festival since
it began. Our range includes over 300 organic
and Fairtrade wines from around the world,
with many award-winners. We stock British
and European organic beers, ciders and
delicious juices. We also have Fairtrade and
organic liqueurs and spirits. We offer a
friendly and efficient service, nationwide.
T: 0800 107 3086
W: www.vinceremos.co.uk
Rathbone Greenbank
Investments
Rathbone Greenbank Investments is pleased to continue its
support of the Organic Food Festival and we will again be
offering free organic apples and a prize raffle to visitors to
our stand! As specialists in ethical investment for private
clients, charities and trusts we are constantly seeking to
find companies whose activities and ethos are aligned with
those of our clients. For us and many of our clients, the
production of fairtrade and organic products is an area of
keen interest, and we have made a number of
investments in support of companies engaged
in these activities. The festival is a lively
reminder of why we do it!
T: 0117 930 3000
W: www.rathbonegreenbank.com
visit our
stand for
your FREE
organic
apple!
40
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> flavour organic food festival
42
Lye Cross Farm
Lye Cross Farm is the brand of the Alvis family, who are
one of the finest cheesemakers in the West County. The
Alvis family have been dedicated to making the highest
quality cheddar on the family farm since 1952. The
Organic Food Festival gives us a great opportunity to
showcase the cheese we produce and bring our products
to the attention of people who enjoy and understand the
benefits of Organic food and production. We love to
answer lots of questions and the
festival is a one off opportunity
here in Bristol to offer lots of
samples of our delicious cheeses.
T: 01934 864 600
W: www.lyecrossfarm.co.uk
Real Organic Food
Company
Real Organic is a
small family company
based in Oxfordshire,
with a passion for
pure tastes and
inspirational recipes
which are deliciously different. We pride ourselves on
producing the freshest tasting products to ensure
homemade freshness is captured in a jar.
We are looking forward to sharing our passion for good
food at the Organic Food Festival with our scrumptious
sauces, conserves and chutneys and some new gourmet
treats.
W: www.realorganic.co.uk
T: 01491 615280
WIN!
A delicious
organic
aperitif!
In celebration of the 10th Organic
Food Festival, Bramley and Gage are
offering six lucky flavour readers the
chance to win a bottle of Bramley
and Gage Organic Sloe Gin. Made
from wild sloe berries, organic gin
and organic sugar, this award
winning warming drink can be widely
enjoyed as an essential cocktail
ingredient as well as a countryside
favourite and hip flask filler.
For your chance of winning email
competitions@flavourmagazine.com
stating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy
of the magazine, or write to us at the
usual address. Good luck!
www.bramleyandgage.co.uk
38-43 OrganicFoodFest:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:36 Page 42
43
> flavour organic food festival
Go organic
everyday
Switch one of your everyday beauty
products to organic or buy an item of
clothing made from UK organic wool or
organic cotton. There are plenty of ways you
can shop organic for less such as signing up
to a veg box scheme, eating less meat and,
when you do, choosing lower cost cuts.
Cook in bulk and grow your own for the
freshest, most local food you can get. These
simple changes will become unnoticeable in
day-to-day life.
Attend the
Soil Associations
Organic Food
Festival
The ever-popular Organic Food Festival, a
highlight of the fortnight, is back on 11 and
12 September at Bristol Harbourside. Now
in its tenth year the festival celebrates the
full spectrum of organic fare with hundreds
of stalls selling delicious food and drink,
organic clothes and beauty products.
Visit an organic
farm
Choose from over 100 farms across the UK,
a fun day out for all the family. By taking
children and educating the next generation,
having organic fingers will become second
nature.
Holiday organic
Browse your way down country lanes and
through the gates of nearly 200 working
organic farms welcoming visitors to
cottages, farm buildings, campsites and the
odd yurt.
Learn a new skill
Learn from the experts at Soil Association
Organic Farm School. The courses cater to
all skill levels and provide the opportunity to
learn from organic farmers with personal
experience from a one-day basic
introduction to more professional expertise
in bee-keeping, chicken keeping,
vegetable growing, willow weaving, hedge
laying or dry stone walling, and many
others.
Host an organic
dinner party
Invite friends and family over for an organic
feast and help raise money for the Soil
Association. Check out
www.diner4good.comfor more information
on how to host a dinner.
Dine out organic
Eat out at a Soil Association certified or
approved restaurant. When dining look out
for the Food for Life catering mark. With
this you can guarantee that your food is
fresh, honest and additive-free.
Join the Soil
Association
Last but by no means least, join the
Soil Association and help them to build a
healthier and more sustainable food and
farming future.
For more information on any of these ideas,
call 01173 145000 or visit
www.soilassociation.org
The Soil Associations Organic Fortnight takes place this year between 3-7 September.
This year the Soil Association is encouraging you to try something organic everyday.
Get involved during the fortnight and discover why organic is good for your well-being
and your planet, is kind to animals and wildlife and allows us make a big difference -
simply through the way we shop.
Organic
Everyday
38-43 OrganicFoodFest:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:36 Page 43
44
> flavour kitchen garden
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45
> flavour kitchen garden
Having only opened the pub last year, weve
all been very busy with trying to establish a
new business as well as a new garden!
Initially we started by planting two small 6ft
x 4ft beds for our herbs. It was only a couple
of weeks later when we put in four more
beds of the same size and filled them with
peas, little gems, broad beans, beetroot,
rhubarb and strawberries.
The beds were very successful, and due to
the fairly easy run we had we were able to
move onto our paddock (to the rear of the
pub) quicker than we had originally
planned. We started by building a chicken
enclosure where we keep 15 chickens and 4
ducks, Thanks to these little ladies we
havent had to buy an egg for a long time!
Next on the to-do list were the larger
raised beds where we now have six 12ft x 6ft
raised beds that produce salads, brassicas
and much more. Finally we built the pigpen
which houses four Welsh/saddleback
crosses. The pigs are coming along very
nicely and were looking forward to using
the first two in just over a month.
July was a very busy month for the garden.
I had quite an extraordinary crop of salads,
with the little gems being the most
successful even with our busy lunchtime
trade were struggling to use them all.
August is flourishing too and our radishes
and beetroot are becoming regular features
on the lunchtime menu.
As a word of advice to the novice gardener
or smallholder, I would say plan as much as
possible and dont be afraid to try new
things. Apart from a couple of hiccups,
almost everything weve planted has been a
real success.
T: 01225 782949
W: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk
kitchen
garden
This month Alex
Geneen, owner of
The Fox at Broughton
Gifford offers his
seasonal tips for
harvesting and
growing in August.
WHAT TO SOW:
At the moment were beginning to
plant purple sprouting broccoli,
leeks, winter cabbage, red kale and
some herbs. Were also getting the
ground ready for our winter crops,
which will be onions and some
carrots, which are to be sown in
September. Well keep a close eye on
them so when they begin to show we
can cover them in fleece for the
colder months.
WHAT TO
PICK NOW:
Green Beans
Mange Tout
Peas
Beetroot
Radishes
44-45 Kitchen gardener:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:37 Page 45
Fruit
Vegetables
Dairy
Bread
Quality ingredients for restaurant
kitchens in the West Wilts and
Bath area. Local produce grown
exclusively for us including
specialist crops.
If you are passionate
about your food wed
like to talk to you
01225 708838
lovejoys@live.com
Lovejoys
Melksham
COMBE HOUSE
At Combe House, Devon youll fnd
exceptional food in a wonderful country
setting, carefully chosen wines and generous
hospitality. Listed as one of
the most romantic hotels in
Great Britain, you will fnd
yourself falling in love all
over again.
www.combehousedevon.com
Combe House at Gittisham,
nr Exeter EX14 3AD Tel: 01404 540400
Enjoy 2 courses for 10.95
from the Plats Rapides Menu,
available everyday from 12 noon.
Alternatively select from the Prix Fix Set Lunch Menu,
available everyday from 12-5pm.
Cafe Rouge have teamed up with Cinema de Lux
in Cabot Circus offering 2 for 1 on all main
courses from the a la carte menu on the
presentation of a valid cinema ticket. T&Cs apply.
Cafe Rouge, Cabot Circus. 01179 544808
www.caferouge.co.uk
46 GPS/Lovejoy/CombeHse/CafeRouge:P.52 5/8/10 22:41 Page 1
>flavour dirty girl diary
FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS 2010
It is that time of year again, the BBCs Food and Farming awards have been launched
and one of the categories in this years awards is Best Food Market. They are looking for
the market that best serves its local community, providing fresh, high quality and
affordable food. So jump online and vote for one of the many incredible flourishing food
markets we have in the South West. The closing date for entries is 15 August 2010.
Visit www.bbc.co.uk to cast your vote now.
JUST TOMATOES
August is such a great month for
produce and I have to say that I am
ever so proud of my tomatoes this
year. I managed for the first time ever
to grow Heirlooms (as you can see
below some from market) and after
many experiments with recipe after
recipe the one that shone through
was just a simple buffalo mozzarella
and tomato salad. Just slice the
ripest of tomatoes and rip up some
shreds of mozzarella as you know
my favourite is Laverstoke Parks
which is available in selected
Waitrose and Sainsburys stores.
Drizzle some really good quality olive
oil, salt and pepper and fresh basil.
Delicious!
DirtyGirl
DIARY
Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green
revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation
in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding
in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building
smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project
Dirty Girl Kitchen. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations
that no foodie should be without...
VANISHING OF THE BEES
Yes, the bees are continuing to disappear and without
them we would not have all of the fantastic produce we
are eating this summer. No tomatoes, no carrots, no
apricots. Nothing. So if you have not seen it please do
yourself a favour and watch Vanishing of the Bees. It is a
really fantastic documentary and will help you to do your
little bit toward saving the bees.
Available at www.amazon.co.uk
47
47 DirtyGirlDiary:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:43 Page 47
>flavour dirty girl diary
FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS 2010
It is that time of year again, the BBCs Food and Farming awards have been launched
and one of the categories in this years awards is Best Food Market. They are looking for
the market that best serves its local community, providing fresh, high quality and
affordable food. So jump online and vote for one of the many incredible flourishing food
markets we have in the South West. The closing date for entries is 15 August 2010.
Visit www.bbc.co.uk to cast your vote now.
JUST TOMATOES
August is such a great month for
produce and I have to say that I am
ever so proud of my tomatoes this
year. I managed for the first time ever
to grow Heirlooms (as you can see
below some from market) and after
many experiments with recipe after
recipe the one that shone through
was just a simple buffalo mozzarella
and tomato salad. Just slice the
ripest of tomatoes and rip up some
shreds of mozzarella as you know
my favourite is Laverstoke Parks
which is available in selected
Waitrose and Sainsburys stores.
Drizzle some really good quality olive
oil, salt and pepper and fresh basil.
Delicious!
DirtyGirl
DIARY
Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green
revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation
in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding
in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building
smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project
Dirty Girl Kitchen. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations
that no foodie should be without...
VANISHING OF THE BEES
Yes, the bees are continuing to disappear and without
them we would not have all of the fantastic produce we
are eating this summer. No tomatoes, no carrots, no
apricots. Nothing. So if you have not seen it please do
yourself a favour and watch Vanishing of the Bees. It is a
really fantastic documentary and will help you to do your
little bit toward saving the bees.
Available at www.amazon.co.uk
47
47 DirtyGirlDiary:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:43 Page 47
> flavour spanish wine revisited
48
The view from the Wine Museum
at Briones in the Rioja Region of
Northern Spain, looking across to
San Vicente de la Sonsierra. The
museum Dinastia Vivanco, brings
the winemaking process to life in
vivid detail, from its historical
roots to the present day. This
museum of wine culture houses
an enormous array of wine-
related paraphernalia, art and a
working winery and cellar.
Spanish wines often get a bad press
completely undeservedly. Ask most people
what they know about wines from Spain and
theyll answer Rioja, and er, sherry?
A hangover from the 70s and 80s of cheap,
offensive red and whites served to the British
holidaymaker has given Spain a real
challenge in bringing their wines up to the
mark to compete with the other global giants.
And to be fair to them, theyve done just that.
One area of expertise the Spanish wineries
are not famous for is fresh, vibrant whites
with lots of aroma. But thats exactly where
their growing success is coming from.
Hidden gems from lesser known grape
varieties are becoming, well, better known,
and really marking Spain on the map for
something more than its traditional (but
fabulous nonetheless) Riojas.
Read on for a selection of what Spain's
vineyards have to offer and where you can
find them around the area.
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years experience
in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants,
pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a
Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.
sr:xisn vixr
rrvisi+ri
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> flavour spanish wine revisited
The Albarino grape, most
commonly grown on the
Northern coasts of Spain, is
rocketing in popularity and is the
perfect choice for those who
love aromatic whites but with
a dry steeliness which makes
it the perfect match for
shellfish (unsurprising really,
given its coastal heritage).
Albarino is also an ideal
partner with tomato based
dishes a notoriously
difficult ingredient to match
to wine.
Pebble Beach in Barton on
Sea has glorious views over
to the Needles from its
alfresco dining area. Try the Leiras Albarino
with the squid and chorizo starter or
gambas. The wine partners the spice
beautifully.
http://www.pebblebeach-uk.com/
Gonzalez Byass Altozano's
Verdejo is another lesser-known
but equally delicious wine.
Classic flavours are stone fruits
and citrus, making it another
great match for seafood and
also lighter vegetarian dishes.
Altozanos appetising example
is a blend with Sauvignon
Blanc, which adds to the
intense fruit flavours and
floral aromas. Available at the
Royal Duchy Hotel in
Falmouth pair with mussels
or summer vegetable risotto.
http://www.brend-
hotels.co.uk/TheRoyalDuchy/
Home.cfm
No Spanish wine review would be complete
without a nod to the world famous Rioja
grape Tempranillo. Less well known than
the region itself, this grape is grown
throughout Spain and many regions are
making wines from Tempranillo which are
as good as dare I say sometimes better
than those from Rioja itself. Raimat Vina 43
Tempranillo from DO Costers del Segre in
NE Spain is from the areas first 100%
sustainable vineyard. It is a great wine, full
of dark cherry flavours and just as good to
drink alone as with food.
For a friendly pub atmosphere, try Caf
Rene in Gloucester. Specialising in steaks,
burgers and grills all a fantastic match
for the Raimat Tempranillo.
www.caferene.co.uk
For the growing number of ros drinkers,
Spain has an array of wines to offer. From
juicy strawberry flavours to crisp,
refreshing modern styles, every palate is
catered for. Gonzalez Byass Altozano
Tempranillo Shiraz is made in the latter
dry, crisp style, balanced with red berry
flavours.
Try it at Wyck Hill House Hotel in Stow on
the Wold set in 100 acres of ground,
making it the ideal setting for a lazy
afternoon with a glass of ros. If youre
eating in the restaurant run by award-
winning chef David Kelman, look out for
dishes with a little spice or pickle. This wine
is also a great match for salad dressings.
www.bespokehotels.com/wyckhillhouse
Cava is Spains answer to Champagne.
Made in the same method and often using
Champagne grapes Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir it offers a top quality and
seriously good value sparkling experience.
Codorniu Cava is Spains
favourite sparkling wine and
offers a range of Brut, Vintage
and Ros to the UK market.
Try Codorniu Clasico Brut NV at
Funki Sushi & Asian Grill in
Bournemouth, a beautiful
rooftop restaurant
overlooking a roof terrace
with fantastic views.
This Cava is a great match
with sushi dishes and
also makes a great aperitif.
www.funkisushi.co.uk
At the Lord Haldon Hotel in Exeter, the
Codorniu Pinot Noir Brut Ros NV is
available, bursting with summer-fruit
flavours. This would make a lovely
accompaniment to the smoked salmon
starter with chilli and ginger relish, or
smoked trout with mixed leaves and honey
and mustard dressing.
www.lordhaldonhotel.co.uk
Sherry used to get a dreadful press in the
UK madness given the breadth of styles
and quality available.
Gonzalez Byass Elegante Fino is the perfect
palate cleanser and aperitif, with fruit
flavours and a hint of spice. Try it at the Old
Thatched Cottage in Weston-super-Mare,
a beautiful 18th century restaurant
overlooking the bay.
www.theoldthatchedcottage.com
At the other end of the sherry spectrum is
Gonzalez Byass Noe, 30 yr old Pedro
Ximenez. This is one of the
worlds oldest and rarest
dessert wines, with
concentrated aromas of raisins,
figs and Christmas spices.
Dont miss out on the
opportunity to try it at
Salcombe Harbour Hotel, in a
stunning location with wide
terraces to watch the sun
set. Desserts such as
chocolate fondant or a
cheese board (a great
alternative to port) would
be ideal for Noe, however a
glass as a digestif alone
would be equally indulgent.
www.salcombe-harbour-
hotel.co.uk
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50
> flavour archangel
As a Bath resident I proceed to write the
following statement with slightly rosy
cheeks: Frome has never struck me as
worth a visit. Before I risk receiving any
abusive emails I will wholeheartedly put my
hands up and admit to making a very
judgemental mistake. Driving through the
centre, the place was utterly charming.
Tradition and beauty hit me slap bang in my
red face and I was sorry for never making
the thirty minute drive from home before
now.
I was excited. For the first time since my
fast fading New Years resolutions, I was
finally seeing one through. Here I was trying
a new thing for the day and enjoying every
moment. Id heard a lot of hype about the
Archangel, a new hotel, restaurant and bar
that had popped up in the centre of Frome,
but I refused to listen too hard. As a market
town, I was expecting a foodie atmosphere
and naturally assumed that a town which
was becoming very in vogue would be
seeing a turn around of a new caf and
restaurant culture.
As we stood in front of the entrance, my
shoulders however, quickly dropped and I
realised we were in the presence of
something a bit different and quite special.
Once upon a time the Archangel formed life
as a coaching inn, with some parts
stretching back to the Doomsday Book,
while more contemporary parts were added
in the 18th Century, evidence of which has
been lovingly preserved everywhere you
look. The walls of exposed brick and patina
give signs of a former life, along with the
undercover medieval street, which runs
down the centre of the building, separating
the bedrooms from the restaurant and bar
from living areas. Finishing touches of
postmodern glass, steel and copper create
a beautiful space of luxuriously rustic style.
The restaurant has all the familiarities of a
rustic farmhouse with a very modern twist.
The old barn walls enclosed us in modern
lighting and fresh mustard leather seating
and oak tables. All making for an easy
space to feel comfortable and relaxed in.
Starting with Szechuan pork fillet, red
cabbage pure, sweet orange and shallot
vinaigrette (6), was a refreshing delight.
The pork was tender and light, a sweet
touch with the orange and drizzled
vinaigrette which was welcomed along with
the stunning presentation. Colour clearly
forms an integral part to the menu,
complementing the flavours as well as the
season. An observation proven correct in
my guests chosen dish of the rich and fruity
spiced aubergine, crispy mozzarella (6)
and a glass of almost too delicate but
refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine Guy
Allion (3.50).
A main of tandoori monkfish, cucumber
tzatziki, curried mushy peas and cumin oil
(16.50) was, according to opinion,
delicious. An Indian influence weaving its
way through a British menu made for a
refreshing change. I chose the lamb, red
pepper piperade, hummus and chickpeas
(15). Cooked to rare perfection, the sweet
peppery sauce and stunning choice of
simple herbs and in season veg
accommodated head chef John Melicans
wishes of getting back to basics cooking
great food with minimal ingredients.
The homemade mango sorbet (5) was
everything you could have hoped for and the
chocolate fondant served on a warm dish
with homemade vanilla ice cream (6)
showed the mindset of a chef who
understands what a lover of chocolate is
after in a dessert.
The menu changes daily and each time you
visit you will find seasonal tweaks, an odd
vegetable swapped here and there or a
sauce adapted to what was available from
the local suppliers on the day.
Everything about this visit could have been
summed up in one word refreshing.
Seeing the British menu make a strong and
competitive revival has been a joy to watch
but seeing one as imaginative, creative and
as fun as this was a real pleasure. Feeling
well fed but not uncomfortable made for a
change from a three course, very British,
meal.
And as for Frome? Its quirky nature and
undeniable charm made me rectify my ways
for another year at least.
Never one to succumb to any type of hype without suspicion, this month
Faye Allen spends an evening in Frome to see what all the whispering has
been about with the areas newest addition, the Archangel
Archangel
1 King Street
Frome
Somerset
BA11 1BH
01373 456111
www.archangelfrome.com
archangel
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51
> flavour archangel
The walls of exposed brick and patina
give signs of a former life, along with the
undercover medieval street, which runs
down the centre of the building
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53
> flavour chef profile
Name: Matt Duggan
Head chef at: The Harbourside
Originally from: Cardiff
Two colleagues and I joined the team at the
Harbourside a week before the opening.
The brief was different to a lot places
around the area and I was intrigued. The
owners have a clear vision of where they
want to be and so do I. I think we are on the
right path so far.
Ive worked in various places, from
branded restaurants and hotels to gastro
pubs. Each place represents its own
challenges, whether it be ten hours of prep
for a three hour service, or vice versa. What
remains the staple in any environment Ive
been in is the quality of the food. For me it's
all about British produce and making a play
on British classics.
The Harbourside is much more than a
venue its about bringing sophistication
and originality back to the waterfront with a
fresh new design. We offer a tapas bar,
alfresco and indoor dining, a tea and flower
lounge, a live performance area, a seafood
counter and outdoor farmers market.
The buzzwords of fresh, seasonal and local
are overused nowadays, but we really
mean it. We bake bread every morning
using flour sourced from Tetbury,
homemade butter using cream from
Hardwick and our fish supplier only stocks
UK caught fish whose quality is unbeatable.
Our oysters come from the River Exe, one of
the cleanest rivers in the UK and our meat
is local in Bath. I could continue but
hopefully you get the idea!
Menus are tweaked on a day-to-day basis
and some dishes are in planning for
weeks. Our duck ham takes 3-4 weeks to
cure, we've also got bressola, salt coley and
lamb bacon hanging, waiting for that
special day on the calendar to come. We
have a British tasters menu for those
wishing for a lighter bite. All you need to do
is sit down, drink and enjoy the environment
whilst having your taste buds pleased.
Its been a whirlwind from getting the go-
ahead to opening the doors but were
taking big strides towards putting The
Harbourside on the map. Our menu will
develop with the seasons and new and more
varied suppliers. Weve recently just opened
for breakfasts, offering dishes such as full
English with homemade baked beans,
homemade granary toast, and smoked
mackerel with bubble and squeek.
I eat fine food every day, just without the
comfort of my sofa! If you were to open my
fridge at the moment, you wouldnt find
much apart from a pig leg hanging- only
another 19 months and she's ready. I
couldnt live without pork on my menu, Im
a true meat lover at heart and the varied
choice of pig around here is fantastic.
So many meals Ive had to cook have left
an impression on me. Last New Years Eve
at my previous job we filled out the
restaurant with pre-booked diners awaiting
a ten-course taster menu. The customers
had no idea what they were in store for until
it was presented to them. It was a wild day,
full of the usual pressures and stresses but
the feeling of walking out onto the
restaurant floor to a room full of delighted,
cheering guests was pretty incredible.
The Harbourside
Unit 1
1 Cannons Road
Bristol
BS1 5TX
01179 272998
chef profile
52-53 Chef profile:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:49 Page 53
52
> flavour chef profile
52-53 Chef profile:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:49 Page 52
53
> flavour chef profile
Name: Matt Duggan
Head chef at: The Harbourside
Originally from: Cardiff
Two colleagues and I joined the team at the
Harbourside a week before the opening.
The brief was different to a lot places
around the area and I was intrigued. The
owners have a clear vision of where they
want to be and so do I. I think we are on the
right path so far.
Ive worked in various places, from
branded restaurants and hotels to gastro
pubs. Each place represents its own
challenges, whether it be ten hours of prep
for a three hour service, or vice versa. What
remains the staple in any environment Ive
been in is the quality of the food. For me it's
all about British produce and making a play
on British classics.
The Harbourside is much more than a
venue its about bringing sophistication
and originality back to the waterfront with a
fresh new design. We offer a tapas bar,
alfresco and indoor dining, a tea and flower
lounge, a live performance area, a seafood
counter and outdoor farmers market.
The buzzwords of fresh, seasonal and local
are overused nowadays, but we really
mean it. We bake bread every morning
using flour sourced from Tetbury,
homemade butter using cream from
Hardwick and our fish supplier only stocks
UK caught fish whose quality is unbeatable.
Our oysters come from the River Exe, one of
the cleanest rivers in the UK and our meat
is local in Bath. I could continue but
hopefully you get the idea!
Menus are tweaked on a day-to-day basis
and some dishes are in planning for
weeks. Our duck ham takes 3-4 weeks to
cure, we've also got bressola, salt coley and
lamb bacon hanging, waiting for that
special day on the calendar to come. We
have a British tasters menu for those
wishing for a lighter bite. All you need to do
is sit down, drink and enjoy the environment
whilst having your taste buds pleased.
Its been a whirlwind from getting the go-
ahead to opening the doors but were
taking big strides towards putting The
Harbourside on the map. Our menu will
develop with the seasons and new and more
varied suppliers. Weve recently just opened
for breakfasts, offering dishes such as full
English with homemade baked beans,
homemade granary toast, and smoked
mackerel with bubble and squeek.
I eat fine food every day, just without the
comfort of my sofa! If you were to open my
fridge at the moment, you wouldnt find
much apart from a pig leg hanging- only
another 19 months and she's ready. I
couldnt live without pork on my menu, Im
a true meat lover at heart and the varied
choice of pig around here is fantastic.
So many meals Ive had to cook have left
an impression on me. Last New Years Eve
at my previous job we filled out the
restaurant with pre-booked diners awaiting
a ten-course taster menu. The customers
had no idea what they were in store for until
it was presented to them. It was a wild day,
full of the usual pressures and stresses but
the feeling of walking out onto the
restaurant floor to a room full of delighted,
cheering guests was pretty incredible.
The Harbourside
Unit 1
1 Cannons Road
Bristol
BS1 5TX
01179 272998
chef profile
52-53 Chef profile:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:49 Page 53
at Park Farm, Kelston
(
just 2 miles west of Bath on A431
)
Visit our
Cheese
Shop
Beautiful award winning
cheeses, hand-made on the
farm and full of natural
goodness from our organic
herd of fresian cows.
GOLD
Royal Bath & West Show
2 010
National Cheese
Awards
GOLD
Nantwich Show
2 010
International
Cheese Awards
The Bath Soft Cheese Co.
Park Farm, Kelston, Bath BA1 9AG
Telephone: 01225 331 601
Email:sales@parkfarm.co.uk
www.parkfarm.co.uk

Dont forget to check our
website for more information
on events coming
up this year!
Winsley, Bradford on Avon
BA15 2JB
[t] 01225 864948
www.hartley-farm.co.uk
54 Hartley/BathSoft:P.52 5/8/10 22:50 Page 1
I love apricots, they bring back so many
warm memories of my childhood. I spent
many hours of my summer holidays with
my grandparents in North Wales where we
would make regular visits to the local fruit
and veg shop. I remember the wonderful
smells of all the summer fruits and in
particular, my own treat: a small brown
paper bag crammed full of fresh apricots,
all bursting with flavour and colour.
Apricots are members of the rose family
and are closely related to the plum, peach,
cherry, and almond. Like peaches and
plums, apricots are drupes, that is, a stone
fruit that develops from self-pollinating
white flowers. The fruits are a
yellow/orange colour and have a seam
that runs around it, almost dividing it into
halves. The skins are fuzzy and velvety,
flushed with pink. The flesh is firm, sweet
and fragrant but contains little juice.
Apricots do not ripen after being picked,
they only soften, so the flavour never
improves if picked green and allowed to sit.
The kernel is edible, but care must be taken
not to consume more than one or two
because of the prussic acid. These kernels
are placed in jars whole and are used to
flavour jams. They are later discarded.
Apricots grew wild for thousands of years in
China, where they were first cultivated.
Today, apricots are extensively cultivated in
California, Israel, Syria, Turkey, Iran and
Spain. The deeper the colour of an apricot,
the more vitamin A it contains. Vitamin A
protects eyesight and its large beta-
carotene and lycopene content also
provides immunity to heart related disease.
Apricots are also loaded with vitamin C and
good amounts of vitamin E, K and B. Iron,
calcium, silicon, phosphorus, apricots have
a good amount of fibre which helps to keep
our little ones digestive systems healthy.
Dried apricots have a far greater nutritional
value than choosing fresh because all the
nutrients are concentrated. This also
applies to the sugar content too so just be
aware when little teeth bite into these little
fruits!
Apricots have a good amount of fibre which
keeps childrens digestive systems healthy.
They are so versatile that they can be eaten
raw or cooked, dried,
canned or frozen and can
be served in countless
ways in either sweet or
savoury dishes.
55
> flavour sian blunos
COOKING
FOR COCO
Like most busy mothers, Sin wanted to
feed her baby well, but didn't have a lot of
free time on her hands. Her solution was
to develop recipes using a wide variety of
fresh, available foods, which could be
batch-cooked and used to stock the
freezer. Now, she always has a range of
delicious dishes on hand, and you can too.
With a little care and planning you can
give even the youngest of children the
experience of good, fresh food, which is
tasty and nutritious.
To order a personally signed copy
of Cooking for Coco for only 8.50
(including postage), RRP 9.99,
email sian@blunos.com
Makes 6-8 portions
275g shoulder of pork, finely diced
15g flour
25g unsalted butter
15ml sunflower oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely
diced
1 medium leek, chopped
570ml unsalted chicken or pork
stock
1 bay leaf
2 fresh apricots (or 4 dried and
soaked), chopped
1 Preheat the oven to 160C, 325F
2 Dust the pork with the flour. Put the
butter and oil into a heavy-bottomed,
ovenproof pan over a medium heat.
Add the pork and fry for about 5
minutes until brown. Add the onion,
carrot and leek and continue to
brown for a further 4 minutes.
3 Cover with the stock add the bay
leaf and bring to the boil. Cover,
transfer to the oven and cook for
about 1 hour. Add the apricots and
cook in the oven for a further 15
minutes or until tender.
4 Leave to cool and remove the bay
leaf. Blend in a food processor or
leave chunky for older children.
Divide into portions and serve or
freeze.
Braised pork
with apricots
This sounds like a grown-up dish, but
its suitable for little ones as well.
The apricots give it a lovely tangy
flavour, which works really well with
the pork.
FRUIT
Chef, food writer,
author and mother
Sin Blunos is
passionate about
childrens health
and their eating
habits, and believes that
expanding your knowledge
of food can only help benefit
your child.
55 Sian Blunos:Layout 1 6/8/10 01:00 Page 55
European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe investing in rural areas.
.ESTON0ARK&ARM3HOP
4HEVERYBESTLOCALANDORGANICFOODS


Deli c Cleese tastin, every SaturJay witl Jenny Cane our awarJ winnin, cleese juJ,e


LLQ's every weekenJ tlrou,lout tle summer (weatler JepenJin,')


Many more events - please look at our website for furtler information

Newly extenJeJ cafe


r,anically reareJ meat from tle Neston lark Lstate

WiJe selection of artisan breaJs

linest Jeli witl variety of local anJ or,anic cleeses, meats anJ antipasti

Neston lark larm Slop Meat Loxes JelivereJ to your Joor

lree nature trail, play area anJ animals for clilJren

pen MonJay to SaturJay 9am-5.3Opm. SunJay 1Oam-+pm
lor more information contact Neston lark larm Slop on O1225 7OO881
Neston lark larm Slop ltJ, Latl lJ, /twortl SN12 8Hl www.nestonparkfarmslop.com
We also lave a slop in LraJforJ on /von - Tle Cleese LoarJ, 3Oa Silver Street O1225 868O+3
The freshest fish
available in the
shop or delivered
to your door.
The Scallop Shell, Whiterow Farm, Beckington, Frome
01373 831641
www.thescallopshell.co.uk info@thescallopshell.co.uk
Traditional Fishmonger
Seafood Deli
Home Delivery
Cookery School
This place is a gem
The Times Top 10 UK
Fishmongers,
July 2010
Brand new home delivery service
to Bath & surrounding area.
Visit www.thescallopshell.co.uk to order.
Special Offer for Flavour Magazine readers: for your first home
delivery order well include 2 of our best selling homemade fishcakes
absolutely free Quote Flavour100 when ordering.
56 Neston/Scallop:P.52 5/8/10 22:53 Page 1
57
> flavour drops by
The Scallop Shell
Whiterow Farm Shop
Beckington
Frome
BA11 6TN
01373 831641
www.thescallopshell.co.uk
Fish is high on the agenda for most peoples
summer menus, yet many of us can be
intimidated when it comes to cooking up the
fruits of the sea. Deciding on the best
preparation and cooking methods for the
type of fish you have, as well as matching it
with the tastiest ingredients available, can be
enough to knock even a capable cooks
confidence, forcing them to stick to a safer
dish.
Making things as easy as possible for the
customer is something that Garry Rosser,
owner of The Scallop Shell set in the idyllic
Whiterow Farm in Frome, aims to provide at
his counter: We dont get as excited about
fish in this country compared to the rest of
Europe, were scared by it. A lot of people
blame themselves if the fish dish doesnt go
well. In reality, the mistake probably already
happened back at the fishmongers because
bad quality fish wont cook well.
Reassurance, encouragement and passion
radiates from this engaging entrepreneur.
With over 20 years experience working as a
chef in Bath and Bristols top restaurants, 10
years of which were dedicated to working
closely with Fish Works creator Mitch Tonks,
Garry is more than qualified at pointing you
in the right direction. Im trying to put fish
back on the table and show people how easy
and delicious great fresh fish can be theres
nothing else quite like it.
Garry continues: Working with Mitch was an
amazing experience. The training was tough
but I learnt a lot and was excited to start up
on my own. I couldnt believe my luck when
I teamed up with Steve here who owns
Whiterow.
Despite seafood sustainability being a hot
topic among consumers, theres a lot of
conflicting advice over what to buy. A lot of
people are confused at the moment, says
Garry. The best thing they can do to help the
situation is to buy different species, dont just
stick to the favourites. Often youll come
across a variety that is tastier and cheaper.
Sourcing the best quality from the best
suppliers is essential for Garry, with stocks
coming up from the three major markets on
the South coast. Garrys main supplier is
Channel Fisheries, and if its good enough for
Buckingham Palace, then it is good enough
for his customers. I never know whats
going to come in that day. This morning I
pulled out a beautiful sea bass and the
quality was just incredible. On a Tuesday
and Friday Garry buys direct from small
boats in Weymouth, meaning that within 24
hours of being caught the fish can be on the
menu.
A few minutes in Garrys company will
convince you that eating fish every night
would be perfectly plausible. If youre in any
doubt, why not take the plunge and pay him a
visit
flavour
drops by...
the scallop shell
The Scallop Shell , a traditional fishmonger, seafood deli
and cookery school, now offers a home delivery service.
57 Flavour Drops by:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:58 Page 57
01934 876355 / 07990 572698
www.bluestonewater.com
Earth, fire and water are the three elements
that make up Bluestone, a garden design and
build service which provides a full garden
living experience. Through Bluestone, owner
Ben Pike brings together his two passions;
outdoor entertaining and beautiful garden
design, enabling you to live at the heart of
your own rural retreat.
Based at Middlecombe Nursery in
Congresbury, North Somerset, Bluestone
provide a friendly and professional service,
from concept through to completion.
Garden Design Studio, Middlecombe Nursery
Wrington Road, Congresbury
North Somerset BS49 5AN
58 Whatley/Bluestone:P.52 6/8/10 00:22 Page 1
59
> flavour reader review
THE SWAN INN
AT NIBLEY
BY JANE GALE, YATE
My husband and I recently decided to treat
our two adult sons to a meal at The Swan in
Nibley. The recommendation came from
friends who had fallen in love so much with
their meals at The Swan that they are now
newly converted regulars.
We booked our meal for last Saturday and
were glad we did as during the course of
the evening we played witness to many a
person being turned away. The staff are
friendly and welcoming and even to those
customers they couldnt seat, they offered
to phone the sister pub, The Squire Inn in
Chipping Sodbury, to see if they could be
accommodated there.
My husband ordered from the specials
board and had the slow roasted rack of
lamb in a redcurrant jus on a bed of spring
onion mashed potato, whilst I had the
salmon in a citrus glaze with fresh
asparagus and saut potatoes. One of our
sons chose the duck from the main menu,
cooked pink and with a cranberry, port and
orange sauce, whilst the other opted for the
sea bass fillets with king prawns in a lemon
butter sauce.
Judging by the spectacular presentation,
the chef obviously has an eye for colour as
well as complementary flavours. The wine
list is extensive and it caters for most
tastes. We chose the French Robert Skalli
Pinot Noir, which was a perfect match for
the duck and lamb. The New Zealand
Nobilo Southern Rivers Sauvignon Blanc
was another fine choice to sit with the
salmon and sea bass.
We all thoroughly enjoyed our meals and
just about squeezed in a dessert. The
temptation was far too high as they were
brought over to our table in order to tempt
us. If you are in any doubt as to whether or
not you should have a dessert, then you will
soon be swayed!
To finish we enjoyed brandy and coffee
whilst relaxing on the very comfortable
leather sofas. Sipping on warming after
dinner drinks in front of a large fire and
coffee table must be very welcoming in the
dark winter evenings. The manager even
mentioned they supply marshmallows and
skewers to toast in front of the fire.
The whole experience was one which we
would thoroughly recommend and we are
proud to announce we are now joining the
growing band of regulars who enjoy fine
food, wine and excellent service. We have
subsequently found out that this is a family-
run business and the constant care and
attention to detail are evident. We will
definitely be booking for next Saturday.
The Swan Inn at Nibley
Badminton Road
Nibley
BS37 5JF
01454 312290
www.theswanatnibley.co.uk
Tell us about your favourite place to eat
by writing to us at the usual address or
emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com
Well even give you one years free
subscription for your troubles!
R
E
A
D
E
R
R
E
V
I
E
W
59 Reader Review:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:18 Page 59
60
> flavour cornubia
The Cornubia
142 Temple Street
Bristol
BS1 6EN
0117 925 4415
www.thecornubia.com
The centre of Bristol is
changing. Everywhere you
look there are cranes and
construction sites: signs that
the city is a thriving and
robust 21st Century
metropolis. But look a little
closer and an older, gentler
Bristol is not too hard to find...
Take The Cornubia, for example. Set back
from Temple Street, dwarfed by
surrounding office buildings and a fire
brigade training tower, sits this traditional
one bar pub that is fast gaining a reputation
as a real ale mecca.
Pick your way behind the car parks of small
local businesses and you will enter a
tranquil haven from the hustle and bustle
outside. Far from the bland homogeneity of
branded pubs designed by a marketing
committee back at HQ, you meet with an
enchanting hotch potch of furniture and
fixtures. Here, a high-backed wooden
settle; there, a row of high chairs ranged
against reading shelves with an eclectic
collection of non-fiction books. Through the
archway, more traditional tables and chairs.
The walls are adorned with real ale pump
clips. And yes, those are live turtles in the
tank in the corner.
Built for a wig-maker named Charles Cox
around 1775, long before The Floating
Harbour or Brunels Suspension Bridge, it
has been a pub since 1859, and was the
brewery tap of Georges Brewery, and
subsequently a training and hospitality pub
for the Courage brewery.
The unusual name comes from the SS
Cornubia, a packet ship that plied its trade
between Bristol and Hayle in Cornwall (or
Cornubia as the Romans had called it) in
the days before Brunels Great Western
Railway had been extended that far west.
The SS Cornubia incidentally was later
purchased by the American Confederacy
and saw active service in the American Civil
War.
These days, the pub is in the hands of the
Hidden Brewery not far from Salisbury, but
is run independently by Phil & Jacki
Bennett. The atmosphere is of an
understated but nevertheless warm
the cornubia
60-61 Cornubia:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:25 Page 60
61
> flavour cornubia
welcome. There is informal chatter and
unobtrusive music in the background,
proving this is a place where it is easy to
leave the stresses and strains of working
life at the door.
Simple bar food such as homemade soup,
baguettes, jacket potatoes, rolls and Black
Country pork pies are on offer, but there is
no doubt that this is a pub aimed squarely
at the discerning drinker.
At any one time there are seven different
real ales, up to three traditional ciders and
a real perry. The selection changes daily
and no one real ale is there for more than
three days or so. You can always tell a good
real ale pub by the care that has gone into
choosing the variety of beers on offer. Real
ale has as much variety as wine does and
the choice at the Cornubia is designed to
appeal to all palates and moods.
Because the beers sell out so quickly, there
is very little risk of a beer in a tired or poor
condition getting to the pump, so this is an
excellent venue to sample the beers as they
should taste.
In addition to the real ales, there is
Thatchers Cheddar Valley Farmhouse
Cider, a bright orange cider which at 6.5%
is stronger than it tastes. Also available
direct from plastic polypins are Broadoaks
KB Cider and Premium Perry which, at
7.5%, are very sensibly only sold in halves.
The Cornubia is ten minutes walk from
Bristol Temple Meads station and is close
to a number of bus routes. There is a small
car park and pay-and-display parking on
the surrounding streets.
Duncan Shine
Raise a glass to...
Quantock Stout (4.5%)
A traditional stout with a real roasted
barley aroma and a moreish dryness.
GWB Summer Nights (3.8%)
A thoroughly quaffable straw
coloured, soft mellow beer from
Hambrook near Bristol.
Yeovil BST (3.8%)
A citrus, zesty pale ale with a clean
crisp taste. Smells to me of lemon or
even grapefruit.
Goffs Excalibur (4.5%)
From Winchcombe near Cheltenham,
a golden ale whose lack of bitterness
makes it deceptively drinkable for its
strength.
Arbor Old Knobbley (4.5%)
A dark ruby old ale from Bristol, with
a hint of warming chocolate and
coffee. A lovely beer for when the
summer isnt as warm as you would
like.
Hidden Pint (3.8%)
A tangy mid-brown bitter from
Salisbury. It is ideal for those who like
to be able to taste the malt in their
beer.
Hidden Spring (3.8%)
Also from the Salisbury brewery. This
is a ruby coloured fruity beer that has
a richness about it that almost puts
you in mind of a redcurrant jam.
Distinctive and memorable.
60-61 Cornubia:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:26 Page 61
The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ
Tel. 01761 221269
www.thebluebowl.co.uk
The Blue Bowl Inn
Country Pub & Restaurant
Good food, well kept ales
and a warm welcome!
39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR
Tel: 01225 892220
Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk
The Catherine Wheel
A pub with a buzz
Marshfield, the gateway to the
Cotswolds and just a few miles
north of Bath, is at the centre of
many spectacular countryside
walks. The Catherine Wheel,
nestled in the picturesque high
street, is renowned for its
traditional home cooked food.
Lunch alfresco in the sheltered
sunny courtyard or, when the
autumn chill sets in, make the
most of the welcoming and
warming fires.
THE LOVELIEST
FISH &CHIPS
IN THE
SOUTH WEST!
Papas Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~
Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN
Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com
FISH RESTAURANT
AND TAKEAWAY
PAPAS
Independently voted by
Daily Mirror readers as the
Best Fish & Chips in the South West!
~
Recent winners of
The Regeneration Partnership
and Weston Mercury and
Star FMs Business of the Year
Award
A traditional Food Hall
in the historic heart of
Bristol, where the
skilled preparation of
ingredients is
performed before you
by knowledgeable and
friendly staff.
Complementing this is
our Caf, which allows
you to enjoy our
amazing produce
cooked by our talented
chefs in a busy market
atmosphere.
GOOD FOOD STARTS HERE
SOURCE. 1-3 EXCHANGE AVE, SAINT NICHOLAS MARKET, BRISTOL, BS1 1JW
INFO@SOURCE-FOOD.CO.UK 0117 9272998
62 BlueBowl/Source/Catherine/Papa:P.52 5/8/10 23:46 Page 1
directory
Welcome to the flavour directory. Updated monthly, this directory
is your essential guide to featured businesses, organisations and
producers in Bristol, Bath and the surrounding areas. For our more
comprehensive online directory, visit www.flavourmagazine.com
BALMORAL HOTEL
Friendly, family-run hotel, restaurant and bar in
the heart of Weston-super-Mare. Full la carte
menu served daily.
Balmoral Hotel
66 Walliscote Rd, Weston-s-Mare BS23 1ED
Tel: 01934 633033
Visit: wwwwbalmoralhotelandstottiesbar.co.uk
BRISTOL SWEET MART
COUNTRY CUPCAKES
Our delicious cupcakes are made from the
finest ingredients and delightfully finished
by hand.
Country Cupcakes
Tel: 07801 280910
Email: nikki@countrycupcakes.com
Visit: www.countrycupcakes.com
A
D
VER
TISE
H
ER
E!
CALL FLAVOUR NOW
TEL: 01179 779188
BETTER FOOD CO.
Bristol's truly local award-winning organic
supermarket, cafe, grower and veg box
delivery service.
BART SPICES
A passion for offering the most wonderful range
of herbs, spices and coconut products allows you
to recreate and enjoy wonderful dishes from
every corner of the world in your own home.
Bart Spices
Tel: 0117 977 3474
Visit: www.bartspices.com
CAFE KINO
Friendly, vegan, vegetarian community cafe.
Enjoy fresh homemade sandwiches and
light meals as well as organic beers, wines
and ciders.
Cafe Kino
Kingsdown, 3 Ninetree Hill, Bristol BS1 3SB
Tel: 0117 9249 200
THATCHERS CIDER
For orchard fresh Thatchers cider visit our
Myrtle Farm Cider Shop, Monday-Saturday
9am-6pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10am-
1pm.
Thatchers Cider Shop
Myrtle Farm, Sandford, Somerset BS25 5RA
Tel: 01934 822862
Visit: www.thatcherscider.co.uk
More than just great food!
Lunch and evening dining, Tues to Sat 12.00-
3.00 and 18.30-22.00, Sun 12.00-15.00 and
Weds breakfast 8.30-11.00.
Bistro 507
507 Bath Road, Salford, Bristol BS31 3HQ
Tel: 01225 873108
The shop sits in the heart of an ethnically
vibrant community. Specialists in spices, ethnic
foods, frozen halal and seafoods. New in store
is the lovely deli selling chilled and hot food.
Bristol Sweet Mart
St. Marks Road, Easton, Bristol BS5 6JH
Tel: 01179 512257
BELTANE BED & BREAKFAST
Were within walking distance of Wells, next to
beautiful open countryside. We have spacious
guest rooms, king size beds with crisp white
linen and delicious, freshly cooked breakfasts!
Beltane Bed and Breakfast
Dulcote, Wells, Somerset BA5 3NU
Tel: 01749 671040 / 07801 654252
Visit: www.beltanebandb.co.uk
Better Food Co. The Proving House, Sevier
Street, St Werburghs, Bristol BS2 9QS.
Tel: 0117 935 1725
Visit: www.betterfood.co.uk
COUNTRY CATERING
Jackie Wallis provides interesting menus,
first class service and event coordination
for weddings, celebrations and special
occasions throughout the West Country.
Country Catering Marina Cottage, Alston
Sutton, Upper Weare Nr. Axbridge, Somerset
BS26 2LS Tel: 01934 732189
Visit: www.countrycatering.me.uk
BISTRO 507
> flavour directory
63
63-64 directory:Layout 1 6/7/10 19:42 Page 63
64
> flavour directory
THE PONY & TRAP
Visit us at our 200-year-old country cottage
pub/restaurant for a memorable dining
experience.
The Pony & Trap
Knowle Hill, Newton, Chew Magna BS40 8TQ
Tel: 01275 332627
Visit: www.theponyandtrap.co.uk
THE STAR INN
The 16th Century pub is one of only two
pubs in the city to make the main listings in
the 2004 Good Pub Guide.
The Star Inn
23 The Vineyards, Bath BA1 5NA
Tel: 01225 425 072
Visit: www.star-inn-bath.co.uk
THE CHOCOLATE TART
Chocolate workshops for 'people who love
chocolate'! Great on your own or in a party.
Gift vouchers available.
The Chocolate Tart
The Old Malthouse, Congresbury BS49 5BD
Tel: 01934 876881
Visit: www.thechocolatetart.co.uk
THE FOLK HOUSE CAF & BAR
The Folk House Caf & Bar produces delicious,
fresh and affordable food using organic, local
and seasonal ingredients.
The Folk House Caf & Bar
40a Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5JG
Tel: 0117 908 5035
Visit: www.bristolfolkhouse.co.uk
TRETHOWAN'S DAIRY
Offering a range of our own cheese, Gorwydd
Caerphilly, made on the family farm in West
Wales, and our other favourite cheeses from
small producers.
Trethowan's Dairy
The Glass Arcade, St Nicholas Mkt, Bristol
Tel: 0117 9020332
Visit: www.trethowansdairy.co.uk
JACQUELINE'S RESTAURANT
We produce the finest products using locally
sourced and homegrown fruit and vegetables.
Also available are Jackies Country Larder
preserves and Chutneys.
Cotswolds88 Hotel
Kemps Lane, Painswick, Glous GL6 6YB
Tel: 01452 813688
Visit: www.cotswolds88hotel.com
THE BATH PRIORY
Michelin-starred and 3 AA Rosette award-
winning restaurant where you can enjoy
lunch or dinner with a view.
The Bath Priory
Weston Road, Bath BA1 2XT
Tel: 01225 331922
Visit: www.thebathpriory.co.uk
STON EASTON PARK
A superb mansion set in one of the West
Country's most romantic estates, exuding
elegance, warmth and comfort.
Ston Easton Park
Ston Easton, Somerset BA3 4DF
Tel: 01761 241631
Visit: www.stoneaston.co.uk
RIVERSIDE GARDEN CENTRE CAFE
Open daily with plenty of indoor and outdoor
seating. Food/drink is suitable for vegetarians
and is organic, fairtrade and mostly
locally sourced.
Riverside Garden Centre Cafe
Clift House, Southville, Bristol BS3 1RX
Tel: 01179 667535
PULLINS BAKER
We've been baking in Somerset since 1925,
creating beautiful artisan loaves using
traditional methods, real ingredients and
family recipes.
Pullins Baker
Tel: 01934 832135
Visit: www.pullinsbakers.co.uk
RONNIE'S RESTAURANT
In the heart of Thornbury, Ronnies offers
lovingly prepared food and exceptional
service in a fresh and stylish setting.
Ronnie's Restaurant
11 St. Mary Street, Thornbury, Bristol BS35 2AB
Tel: 01454 411137
Visit: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
RIVERFORD
Riverford Organic Vegetable Boxes are now
available for home delivery in North Somerset,
Bristol, Bath and surrounding areas.
Riverford Organic Vegetable Boxes
Order today, Tel: 0845 600 3211
Visit: www.riverford.co.uk
JACQUELINES RESTAURANT
63-64 directory:Layout 1 6/7/10 19:42 Page 64
GOOSEBERRY FOOL
Serves 4
Ingredients
400g gooseberries, topped and tailed
2 tbsp caster sugar
250g double cream (for a healthier version
use half crme fraiche and natural yogurt)
200g fresh vanilla custard
3 tbsp elderflower cordial
1.5 tsp vanilla extract
1 Put the gooseberries in a pan with the
sugar and 2 tbsp water. Gently stew for 10-
15 minutes until the gooseberries are soft.
Drain some of the juice if necessary. Leave
to cool and mix in the elderflower cordial.
2 Softly whip the cream with the vanilla
extract. Fold the cooked gooseberries into
the cream.
3 Spoon alternate layers of gooseberry
cream and custard into glasses or glass
bowls. Decorate with whole cooked
gooseberries. Sprinkle with crushed
digestive or ginger biscuits or honey-toasted
rolled oats for a crunchy top.
TOP TIPS
1 Elderflower cordial is an amazing
ingredient add it to whipped cream
desserts like pavlova to add a touch of
je ne sais quoi.
2 You can turn these ingredients into a
Gooseberry Eton Mess just add crushed
meringues to the layers.
I feel so passionate about these amazing little fruits. Its such a short time of the year
that theyre in season so embrace it! I thank my mother for educating me in the pleasure
of fresh, seasonal and local fruit so this recipe is dedicated to her with love and thanks.
65
> flavours food heroes
Feeling inspired by our talented readers, each month flavour will
be looking at the unsung heroes of the foodie world you!
This month we talk to Fiona Morgan whose passion for supporting
local and seasonal produce is destined to inspire all of us
> Whether you want to give us your favourite brownie recipe or have a friend who breeds
their own pigs, please email faye@flavourmagazine.com or call us on 01179 779188.
I
f theres one thing Fiona Morgan is no
stranger to, its sampling the flavours of
the world, whether that be the unique
sweet, sour, hot and salty dishes of South
East Asia or the aromatic spices of South
India, or even the sub tropical, fresh
produce and herbs found in Australia.
However, wherever she has been, a passion
for British cuisine has always had a settled
place within her heart.
When a person has dedicated parts of their
career to the foodie world, just because
they have a sheer enjoyment for it, or have
moved across the country to be closer to
food markets and to have their own
vegetable patch, or even when a person
schedules their holidays around the food on
offer, then you know you are in the
presence of a true food lover. Something
Fiona Morgan radiated as soon as I made
contact with her:
I just love cooking and preparing food.
I have been blessed with wonderful food
cooked for me by my family and friends
over the years and have eaten in some
amazing restaurants. Most of my fondest
memories are those around the dinner
table!
Fiona gets herself involved in lots of foodie
events, from food festivals to Soil
Association talks about food security.
Adopting beehives, signing petitions and
getting involved in campaigns such as
supporting the amazing varieties of British
apples we have access to are just all part of
the course. I just like to be really aware of
what is going on in the wonderful world of
food. There may be over 2000 varieties of
apples grown in this country, over 500 types
of pears, over 200 varieties of cherries and
plums - the list is endless. Why can we only
get Braeburn, Gala and Granny Smiths in
the supermarkets?
Having to accommodate coeliacs disease
has meant a change in lifestyle for Fiona,
something which she has embraced. I feel
so much healthier now and have definitely
got more energy. It took a while to adapt but
it just means you have to be more
organised. I love fruit and veg so it wasnt a
big sacrifice.
Fionas passion for great food is bound to
get even the biggest novice hooked. As
Fiona demonstrates, food is both a
personal and social experience and can
enrich and inspire our own lives, as well as
others.
FLAVOURS
FOODHEROES
Signature Dish Signature Dish
65 FoodHeroes:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:49 Page 65
66
> flavour food for thought
The egg is a food that sits so majestically at
breakfast, lunch and dinner and has the
social mobility to look just at home fried on
a shovel, as it does poached in a truffle
velout. An egg can star on its own, but then
wows the audience playing supporting roles
in pastry, cakes and all manner of sauces.
The trouble is, eggs is not eggs (sic). In fact
of the 11 billion eggs consumed in the UK
each year, the variation in quality, freshness
and animal welfare, may well be a true
representation of the rapid post-war decline
in food standards and the slow climb back.
If you look at the path eggs have taken, from
backyards to mass production, its a good
indicator of all the wider trends in the UK.
Eggs led the way with a drive towards free-
range, organic and more recently local and
home production, but this is still less than
half of the 11 billion consumed. Only when
you crack open a fresh, free-range egg do
you really notice the dramatic difference in
quality and value for money. A fresh organic
egg is a joy. An intensely reared, twenty day-
old ovum, is a product.
At the Bath food festival last month, I was
lucky enough to meet some of the team
from local, organic and free-range egg
producers, Eggsilicious. Producing eggs to
the highest standard of animal welfare, as
defined by the Soil Association, Eggsilicious
are committed to ensuring the best
environment for their hens (and quail) on
their Wiltshire farm. As a result they enjoy
egg production at levels easily on a par (if
not superior) to intensely reared birds. As
one of the partners Julian Goodwin points
out you can only get out of animals what
you put into it.
Eggsilicious provide around a hectare of
land per thousand hens, well in excess of
the standard for free-range birds. Theyre
allowed to scratch and peck, take dust
baths and perch in the sunshine; all in open
organic land, which is rich in insect life,
thus stimulating natural behaviour. As
Julian concludes when was the last time
you saw seagulls following a plough?
Intense farming on agricultural land is
starving it of a natural ecosystem and this is
becoming increasingly apparent in the
quality of our food. Too much of our egg
production is simply artificial.
By 2012 the EU will outlaw conventional
barren cages (which still represent around
58% of UK egg production), replacing them
with so-called enriched caged
environments. These provide additional
space per hen (by about the size of a
postcard) as well as limited perching,
nesting and scratching facilities (areas,
which are often protected by more dominant
birds). The hens will in many cases still be
standing on wire mesh floors and some will
still be denied fresh air and sunshine. Its an
improvement, but there is still some way to
go.
Even free-range eggs production is not
always what it appears. Many of the birds
will never actually go outside and the
intensity of the sheds is so high that
conditions are not too dissimilar to caged
environments, with little scratching and
foraging actually occurring. Dont get me
wrong, I know this is by far a better
environment. Furthermore, I sympathise
with egg producers on tight margins, who
have been continuously screwed down on
price. I think we have to work together.
The trouble is EU standards are not
necessarily transferable. By increasing
(even very marginally) the cost of producing
eggs in the UK and the wider EU, imports of
cheaper caged eggs will find their way into
more price sensitive processed foods. Here
there is limited labelling on the origin of the
eggs used and certainly no information on
the conditions of the hens laying them. Even
now, the RSPCA estimate that around 85
per cent of eggs used as ingredients in
processed foods, are still from hens kept in
cages.
So what to do? Well, buy your eggs from
local, free-range and better still, organic
producers. Eggsilicious supply at a national
level, but they also supply to local shops,
like Neston Park farm shop and direct to
hotels and guest houses, including The
Bath Priory. They have also started to
deliver direct to homes and offices. Perhaps
this is the beginning of a regular egg-round,
placing greater emphasis on the
importance of eggs, on their quality and on
ensuring animal welfare. One can hope so.
Its time to go to work on eggs.
is anOeuf
An Oeuf
As we eagerly await the arrival of better caged environments for
our hens, Nathan Budd takes a look at the marginal differences
in quality to negative impact.
66 Food For Thought:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:50 Page 66
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