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VALENTINE
WARNER
Golden nuggets from
a very quirky cook
Secret
suppers
A sneaky peek at a
thriving underground
dining scene
WIN!
Dinner, bed and
breakfast at the
Crowne Plaza
Hotel!
flavour
Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 30 | August 2010 3 (Where sold)
for people who love local food
RISE AND
SHINE
Breakfast like
a King around
Bristol and Bath
01 Cover and spine:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:35 Page 1
02 Clifton Coffee ad:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:42 Page 1
Please recycle this product.
6 In Season
Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash
bring you the best of the
season's produce
11 WIN!
A stay at The Crowne Plaza
Hotel!
12 Secret Suppers
A sneaky peek at a thriving
underground dining scene
16 Rise and Shine
Breakfast like a King around
Bristol and Bath
24 Valentine Warner
Golden nuggets from a very
quirky cook
34
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24
contents
Editor:
Holly Aurelius-Haddock
Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com
Editorial Assistant:
Faye Allen
Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com
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Chris Jones
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Miranda Coller, Director of Sales
Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com
Kate Gardner
Email: kate@flavourmagazine.com
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Email: debbie@flavourmagazine.com
Photography:
Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker
Contributors:
Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Sin Blunos, Tom
Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock,
Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron
Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.
Flavour Magazine
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Please send any comments or suggestions
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Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com
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Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com
All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced
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flavourmagazine.com
Welcome to the
August issue of
flavour!
This month might see even our cabinet
ministers take their annual leave and head
for the sun, but here at flavour HQ weve
never been busier!
As this months kitchen gardener will
confirm on PAGE 44, August is one of the
most exciting times of year on the fruit and
vegetable plot. And if all life springs from
the soil, the knock-on effect in the foodie
world is a pleasure to behold. Rainbow
coloured market stalls are overflowing with
seasonal produce, providing the eager cook
with endless inspiration for their weekly
menus. If you love sunshine food just as
much as we do, check out the brand new
recipes from Neven Maguire on PAGE 33
the perfect remedy for post-holiday blues.
We're absolutely thrilled to announce that
we'll be producing this year's official
Organic Food Festival Guide so keep an eye
out for your free supplement in next
month's issue, which will be packed with
everything you need to know about Europe's
largest event of its kind. But if you really
can't wait that long, turn to PAGE 38 for a
taster of what's in store.
We hope you enjoy reading this issue as
much as we've enjoyed making it.
Happy Eating!
Holly Aurelius-Haddock
welcome
03 Contents:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:05 Page 3
4
> flavour news
this month
If you have any news or events
that you would like to share with
us here at flavour then email
enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
THE COWSHED
The UKs first US-style barbeque
competition and food show made its way to
the Bristol Harbourside in July. Two-tonnes
of charcoal and wood was burnt by the 10
barbecue teams and exhibitors, with The
Cowshed Bar and Grill taking the crown as
the Napoleon King of the Grill
competition.
The team won a place in the BBQ World
Championships in Memphis next May to
represent the UK where the top prize is
$100,000 and an all expenses trip for the
whole team.
THE SPA AT HOMEWOOD
PARK
As the sun shines down on the beautiful
Limpley Stoke Valley and across its glorious
outdoor swimming pool, Homewood Park's
new spa is said to be off to a swimming
start.
Homewoods General Manager Denis
Verrier said I couldnt be more pleased
with the public response to the spa. We
welcomed over 150 people to our open day
last month and the feedback has been
brilliant. Im extremely proud of my team
whove worked tirelessly to ensure that we
opened on time.
www.homewoodpark.co.uk
Congratulations to
Caroline Parfitt from
Clevedon who has won
a copy of veggie
cookbook Yum!
Congratulations to
Steve Peters from
Cotham who has won
a Chandos Deli
hamper worth 100!
This year's Organic Food
Festival celebrates its10th
anniversary at Bristol's
Harbourside on 11 & 12 September
2010. The festival, which is Europe's
biggest celebration of all things organic,
provides an opportunity for visitors to
taste the best food and meet leading
producers from across the UK. Visitors
can expect a weekend of
gastronomic delights
provided by over 150 of
the very best organic
producers.
At this year's festival, as
well as a host of celebrity
chefs sharing culinary
wisdom in the Cookery Demo Tent, an
expected 20,000 visitors will be able to
discover delicious food and drink,
luxurious skincare, leading organic
fashion labels, organic textiles and
home design as well as organic
gardening.
At the heart of the 2010 festival will be
The Food Market where visitors can
come and look, taste and buy from stalls
offering some of the best organic
produce you can find. From organic pork
pies, to organic ice cream, it will be a
food lover's heaven.
Promising to be an entertaining family-
friendly outing, this much-loved festival
is perfect for everyone.
www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk
ORGANIC FOOD
FESTIVAL
WINNERS
NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE FOODIES
Nominations are now open for the BBC Radio 4 Food and
Farming Awards. The awards search for the best in food and
farming and are a great way to highlight the people in your area
who are upholding the regions reputation for truly great produce.
To nominate simply visit the awards website: www.bbc.co.uk/radio4
F
IN
D
O
U
T
M
O
R
E
O
N
P
A
G
E
3
8
!
04-05 News:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:45 Page 4
HAPPY AS PIGS IN MUD
According to new research carried out by Newcastle
University, pigs are capable of feeling human
emotions. These curly tailed cuties can feel
optimistic or pessimistic depending on how
they are treated. Kept in luxurious
surrounding, pigs are more likely to
respond positively to new experiences than
those kept in less stimulating pens. Last year
published research proved that cows that were
given a name and treated as individuals produced
more milk than unnamed cattle. It is hoped that this
is a step in the right direction to improving animal welfare.
5
> flavour news
LOVE COOKING
A brand new innovative cooking event,
Love Cooking, is to arrive in Bristol on
5th October at The Colston Hall.
Featuring one-hour live presentations
from some of the UKs top celebrity
chefs cooking live on stage, this show
is the ultimate culinary concert.
Individual tickets are priced at 20 or
see 2 chefs for 30. Ticket prices
include a Love Cooking recipe book
featuring 60 recipes from the show.
TICKET GIVEAWAY!
Love Cooking festival are giving away
a pair of tickets to
each of the Bristol
events. So for your
chance to see James
Martin, Gary Rhodes,
Rachel Allen, Ainsley
Harriott, Gino
DAcampo, Valentine
Warner and
Thomasina Miers
then email:
competitions@flavourmagazine.com
stating your name, address, phone
number and where you got your copy of
the magazine, or write to us at the
usual address. Good luck!
www.lovecookingfestival.com
Absolutely Cakes
were delighted to
have scooped a
three star gold for their
St. Clement's orange and lemon sponge
and a one star gold for their Carrot and
Pecan cake.
www.absolutelycakes.com
Castellanos received an impressive three
star gold awards for its dry cured back
bacon, pancetta and coppa. Vincent
Castellano can be found selling a
mouthwatering selection of artisan
charcuterie, all of which is prepared by
Vincent himself at his shop in Fishponds.
www.castellanos.co.uk
Jess Ladies Milk, took home two gold
awards, both one star for their organic
whole milk and their semi skimmed milk.
Her ladies should be very proud.
www.theladiesorganicmilk.co.uk
Now regarded as the equivalent of a
Michelin star for specialty food and drink
producers, The Great Taste Awards are in
their 14th year of judging and to reach two
or three star status, 20 judges must agree
that the product has reached 'absolute
perfection.
So a big pat on the back for our local
producers you will find them beaming
with pride at The Bristol Farmers Market
every Wednesday.
www.greattasteawards.co.uk
Results have recently been announced for this years
prestigious Great Taste Awards, and here are a few of our
favourite local winners
GREAT TASTE AWARDS 2010
SUMMER EVENINGS AT THE SECOND FLOOR
What better way to spend an evening than a sunset dinner bathed in the golden glow
of Harvey Nichols Second Floor Restaurant, watching the city below you?
Exclusively for the summer months, enjoy a three course set menu starting with a
complimentary Second Floor Bellini for 15 per person. Even amuses bouches and
petit fours are included!
Available Tuesday to Friday evenings from 6 July - 30 September.
For more information or to make a reservation call 0117 9168898 or email
reception.bristol@harveynichols.com
04-05 News:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:45 Page 5
BLACKBERRY, APPLE AND ROSEMARY
JELLY
Makes approx 2x500g jars
Remove the stalks from 500g washed
cooking apples and roughly chop including
the apple peel and core. Place in a pan with
litre of water, 1 cinnamon stick, 500g
blackberries and 2 large sprigs of
rosemary. Stir to the boil and simmer until
fruits are soft and mushy. Poor the
contents of the pan into a jelly bag and
allow the juice to drip through without help
overnight. Measure the liquid that has
dripped through and place it in a pan.
Gently bring the liquid to the boil and add
430g of sugar for every litre of liquid,
mixing in the sugar as the liquid boils. Boil
rapidly for 10-12 minutes until setting point
is reached; skim the surface of the jelly to
remove any scum and pour into jars, seal
immediately.
6
> flavour in season
>Tomatoes
Tomatoes come in all different shapes,
sizes and colours ranging from the giant
red beefsteak to the tiny cherry tomatoes.
They are sweet and tangy but although
classed as a fruit, they work best with
savoury ingredients in cooking. British
tomatoes are available from June through
to October and are fairly easy to grow at
home. Look for firm, bright tomatoes that
have their characteristic fragrant smell
and the leafy tops to the fruit are also a
good sign of freshness. The riper the
tomato the better and sweeter the taste
so be sure to look for the freshest, ripest
ones. Eating tomatoes cold can mute
their flavour so either eat right away or
take out of the fridge about half an hour
before you eat them to make sure you get
all the great taste!
>Blackberries
Wonderfully juicy, blackberries should be a
firm favourite in your kitchen throughout
the autumn. They are a purple-black berry
with a flavour ranging from sweet and juicy
larger berries to more tart smaller berries.
One of my favourite childhood recipes was
that of blackberry and apple crumble which
makes use of two abundant fruits at the
time of year. If possible, pick them rather
than buy them as they do not store that
well. If you are buying in punnets make
sure the berries are plump and shiny and
not squashed. If you have picked them
place them on kitchen paper on a plate in
the fridge so that they dont get crushed.
However, they are best eaten right away!
At their
best
SURF CLAMS WITH HERB AND TOMATO
SALSA
Serves 4
Blanch 5 plum tomatoes in boiling water
and refresh in ice water, peel, remove the
seeds and cut into small dice. Place in a
bowl with 1 teaspoon of chopped herbs,
including dill, parsley, tarragon and
coriander. Add 2 spring onions and
refrigerate. Place 150ml white wine in a
sauce pan, bring to the boil and simmer for
2 minutes. Add 40 large surf clams, cover
with a lid and cook until opened. While still
hot remove the empty half shells and
discard. To serve mix 50ml of olive oil and
150ml of champagne vinegar through the
tomatoes, plate the clams and spoon a little
salsa in each.
06-07 Seasonal:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:52 Page 6
> flavour xxxxxxx
7
>Fennel
Fennel is a very delicately flavoured
perennial herb but this herb is also
cherished for its delicious bulb and
fragrant seeds. The bulb is full of flavour
and its anise-laced scent work superbly
raw in fresh salads and cooked with fish
such as bass and bream. The foliage of the
plant is most commonly used as a herb and
has the same flavours as the bulb and is
very similar in appearance to that of dill.
It can also be used in dressings with olive
oil, salt and pepper. Fennel is in season
from May to October and is best when it is
firm and crisp with no blemishes or tinges
of brown on the bulb. The bulbs keep well
in a fridge for up to a week.
right now
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.
Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant
team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
>Peaches
Peaches really are some of the sweetest, juiciest and most fragrant of all the soft
fruit. Along with nectarines, peaches have to be picked ripe as they do not ripen that
well afterwards. They can come in different shapes and colours but the most common
are tennis ball-sized yellowy-red varieties with a velvety surface. They are best eaten
on their own but can also be used in salads with a salty blue cheese or in a classic
peach cobbler pudding. The ripest peaches will be fairly firm but will yield when
squeezed gently. Avoid hard peaches or ones that are bruised or very soft. They are
best eaten as soon as they are ripe but will store in a fridge for a day or two.
MEAD AND SAFFRON POACHED
PEACHES
Serves 4
Put pt of mead, pt of water and
400g sugar into a pan, bring to a
simmer and add 1 star anise, the zest
and juice from 1 lime and a large pinch
of finely chopped saffron strands,
simmer for 20 minutes. Meantime
blanch 6 yellow peaches in boiling
water, refresh in ice water and remove
the skins. Cut the peaches in half and
gently remove the stones. After the
syrup has infused put in the peaches
and simmer until just cooked and allow
the peaches to cool in the liquid. Serve
chilled with ice-cream or cream.
FENNEL, BUTTON MUSHROOM AND
GREEN BEAN SALAD
Serves 4
Finely slice 2 heads of fennel, 1 red onion
and 150g of washed and peeled button
mushrooms and place in a bowl. Blanch
300g of green beans in boiling water,
refresh in ice water and cut into 2 cm
pieces, pat them dry then add them to the
other vegetables. Add a small bunch of
watercress leaves discarding the stalks,
and 1 chilli. Gently toss the salad in the
juice of 1 lemon and 25ml of olive oil
seasoning with rock salt. (Great with fish.)
06-07 Seasonal:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:52 Page 7
9
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our
monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
WILD GARLIC, GOOSEBERRIES
AND ME
DENIS COTTER
Collins 14.99
Wild Garlic was a result of
world-renowned vegetarian chef
Dennis Cotter and his ambition
to re-connect people back to
food and the land. Dennis
reveals how to search for
delicious mushrooms, wild
greens and sloes, how to cook
asparagus and take on artichoke
with attitude. Dennis drags us
into muddy fields and introduces
us to the growers of the best
produce imaginable. After a read
of this very unique recipe book, it would be hard to not get those
wellies out and start your own vegetarian cooking experience.
HEDGEROW RIVER COTTAGE
HANDBOOK NO. 7
JOHN WRIGHT
Bloomsbury Publishing 14.99
Here at flavour we just love the River
Cottage Handbook Series and as we
have already featured Sea Fishing by
Nick Fisher, we just couldnt let this
new addition to the collection slip
through the net. Here, John Wright
explores the culinary delights of
British hedgerows, moors, meadows
and woods. Informative and witty,
John Wright reveals how to spot free
and delicious ingredients as well as
how to prepare and cook them. John
gives sufficient warning on how to
look out for poisonous varieties as well as any suspicious look-a-
likes. This book is an invaluable tool for household reference as well
as a necessity to have by your side for every trip into the countryside.
fab foodie reads
GOOD HOUSEKEEPING FAVOURITE
CAKES, BAKES & CUPCAKES.
Collins and Brown 14.99
From cupcakes and cookies, to
tarts and traybakes, there is a
sweet treat for everyone in this
yummy new cookbook from
Good Housekeeping. Every
recipe is clear and easy to
follow. Each delicious recipe has
been triple-tried and tested and
are guaranteed to work first
time, every time. So dont worry,
those cookies will not come out
as mini rock forms, the sponge
wont go stale within the hour
and the icing will not be lumpy!
Get your wooden spoons at the
ready.
LEVI ROOTS FOOD FOR FRIENDS:
100 SIMPLE DISHES FOR EVERY
OCCASION
LEVI ROOTS
Published by Mitchell
Beazely Octopus Publishing
18.99
Levi Roots, the man who famously
slayed the dragons and whipped
the nation into a Caribbean frenzy
with his spicy sauces, is back with
another fab book to tickle our taste
buds. In this book, our favourite
Caribbean star is showing us how
to cook for our friends and loved
ones by bringing a Caribbean twist
to the dinner table. Levi takes some
of the nations favourites and shows us how to spice it up in easy
steps. Pork chops are transformed into pork chops calypso and a
classic dessert is remodelled into mango, banana and passion fruit
trifle. Lets hope our favourite reggae reggae sauce makes an
appearance
09 FabFoodieReads:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:01 Page 9
Cadbury:Layout 1 6/7/10 20:40 Page 1
9
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our
monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
WILD GARLIC, GOOSEBERRIES
AND ME
DENIS COTTER
Collins 14.99
Wild Garlic was a result of
world-renowned vegetarian chef
Dennis Cotter and his ambition
to re-connect people back to
food and the land. Dennis
reveals how to search for
delicious mushrooms, wild
greens and sloes, how to cook
asparagus and take on artichoke
with attitude. Dennis drags us
into muddy fields and introduces
us to the growers of the best
produce imaginable. After a read
of this very unique recipe book, it would be hard to not get those
wellies out and start your own vegetarian cooking experience.
HEDGEROW RIVER COTTAGE
HANDBOOK NO. 7
JOHN WRIGHT
Bloomsbury Publishing 14.99
Here at flavour we just love the River
Cottage Handbook Series and as we
have already featured Sea Fishing by
Nick Fisher, we just couldnt let this
new addition to the collection slip
through the net. Here, John Wright
explores the culinary delights of
British hedgerows, moors, meadows
and woods. Informative and witty,
John Wright reveals how to spot free
and delicious ingredients as well as
how to prepare and cook them. John
gives sufficient warning on how to
look out for poisonous varieties as well as any suspicious look-a-
likes. This book is an invaluable tool for household reference as well
as a necessity to have by your side for every trip into the countryside.
fab foodie reads
GOOD HOUSEKEEPING FAVOURITE
CAKES, BAKES & CUPCAKES.
Collins and Brown 14.99
From cupcakes and cookies, to
tarts and traybakes, there is a
sweet treat for everyone in this
yummy new cookbook from
Good Housekeeping. Every
recipe is clear and easy to
follow. Each delicious recipe has
been triple-tried and tested and
are guaranteed to work first
time, every time. So dont worry,
those cookies will not come out
as mini rock forms, the sponge
wont go stale within the hour
and the icing will not be lumpy!
Get your wooden spoons at the
ready.
LEVI ROOTS FOOD FOR FRIENDS:
100 SIMPLE DISHES FOR EVERY
OCCASION
LEVI ROOTS
Published by Mitchell
Beazely Octopus Publishing
18.99
Levi Roots, the man who famously
slayed the dragons and whipped
the nation into a Caribbean frenzy
with his spicy sauces, is back with
another fab book to tickle our taste
buds. In this book, our favourite
Caribbean star is showing us how
to cook for our friends and loved
ones by bringing a Caribbean twist
to the dinner table. Levi takes some
of the nations favourites and shows us how to spice it up in easy
steps. Pork chops are transformed into pork chops calypso and a
classic dessert is remodelled into mango, banana and passion fruit
trifle. Lets hope our favourite reggae reggae sauce makes an
appearance
09 FabFoodieReads:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:01 Page 9
Summer Wraps
Perfect for picnics, packed lunches
and barbecues, Discovery
Wrapbreads make a great alternative
to sandwiches and can be filled with
just about anything from hummus
and salad to cream cheese and
smoked salmon for some delicious
alfresco finger food. Choose from
white, white plus, multiseed or
wholemeal.
T: 0800 018 0002
W: www.wrapbread.com
> flavour loves...
THIS MONTHS MUST DO, BUY & SEE...
Chilterns
Rapeseed Oil
Rapeseed is fast growing into our favourite
alternative to olive oil and Chilterns cold
pressed extra-virgin rapeseed oil is a
prime example as to why. With 10 times
more Omega 3 than traditional olive oil, as
well as under half the saturated fat
content there's no other oil wed prefer to
cook with! On offer is a range of six
delicious infused oils including, basil,
thyme, garlic, chilli, lemon and oak
smoked starting from 3.85 a bottle.
T: 01442 828478
W: www.pemeadandsons.co.uk
Sue Dann
Candles
Inspired by the English
countryside, these candles
are the perfect choice for any
harmonious home.
Everything from fragrance
blending to hand pouring is
done in the workshops in Wiltshire. Making careful and
natural ingredient choices ensures sustainability and
excellence. Choose from village perfumes, a reflection of life
in the country, manor fragrances which inspire sophistication
and elegance and walled garden perfumes which create a
touch of the botanical indoors. 20 each.
T: 01225 463 648
W: www.suedanninteriors.com
Fabulous Vodka
The Fabulous Vodka Company
develop and produce some of the
finest alcoholic drinks around.
Fabulous Vodka only use the
purest spirits blended or distilled
with the finest natural
ingredients, resulting in the
smoothest, most delicious drinks
suitable for drinking neat, over
ice, in a cocktail, or as an
ingredient in delicious food
dishes. Caralicious is a smooth
sweet blend of natural caramel
with the finest vodka. Developed
over a period of 10 months it has
proven a real hit with the
discerning liqueur drinker!
T: 07902 209532
W: www.fabulousvodka.co.uk
Grasse Giftshop
Keep your champagne or wine nicely
chilled with this stylish cooler made from
aluminum (69), and round the eco chic
look off with a set of handmade recycled
champagne glasses made in Valencia.
Both are a lovely addition to your dining
table and a beautiful gift idea. 7.95
each or set of four for 30.
T: 01225 444260
W: www.grasse.me.uk
flavour
L
o
v
e
s
10-11 Flavour loves:Layout 1 6/8/10 10:01 Page 10
11
> flavour loves...
WIN! AN OVERNIGHT STAY FOR TWO
AT THE CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL IN
MARLOW!
The luxurious Crowne Plaza Hotel is offering one lucky flavour
reader the chance to win an overnight stay for two people, dinner for
two in the hotel's restaurant, use of the spa as well as VIP tickets to
both days of the Marlow Food Festival!
For your chance of winning email
competitions@flavourmagazine.comstating your name, address,
phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine, or
write to us at the usual address. Good luck!
Bramley and Gage
6 OClock Gin
An award-winning tipple created by
Michael Kain whos achieved balance,
poise and precision in equal measure.
With hints of Juniper as well as six
other botanicals, orange peel and
elderflower, the resulting clean, smooth
and richly flavoured gin makes it a must
have for any drinks cabinet. 15.99 per
bottle.
T: 01454 418046
W: www.bramleyandgage.co.uk
Feed Your Imagination
Handmade using the finest organic Belgian chocolate and
blended with essential oils, these organic treats promise to
boost and rejuvenate from within. Beautiful was awarded Gold
at The Great Taste Awards and promotes a positive outlook. You
never have to feel guilty about a chocolate indulgence again
T: 0845 602 6862
W: www.feeding-your-imagination.co.uk
Upton Smokery
Based in the rolling Cotswolds, Upton
Smokery specialises in smoking meat, game
and fish of the highest quality. What started
five years ago on a micro scale, has grown to
a small-medium sized business supplying
high quality smoked food to businesses and
private customers throughout the Cotswold
area and beyond. Upton Smokery does not
use any artificial flavourings or colourings in
the process, just pure salt, water, natural
beech and oak smoke.
T: 01451 844744
W: www.uptonsmokery.co.uk Teapigs
Teapigs English Breakfast is their signature
blend. Far from ordinary, its a skilful
balancing act between three glorious teas:
a gutsy Assam, a mellow little Ceylon and a
powerful newcomer from Rwanda. This
flavour filled tea is a far cry from the regular
British brew.
Although we are supposed to be a nation of
black tea drinkers there are some very
adventurous tea lovers out there. For those
very people teapigs have blended pure
liquorice root with whole peppermint leaves to
create a naturally sweet and refreshing drink
that is irresistibly moreish. This blend is just
lovely brewed cold in a jug with lots of ice as
well as brewed hot. With less than 3 calories
per cup this is the perfect alternative to a
cake! Available nationwide at delis or online.
T: 020 8568 8989
W: www.teapigs.co.uk
10-11 Flavour loves:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:03 Page 11
12
> flavour secret suppers
According to a report on Radio Fours Food
Programme last month, one of the first
unconventional dining clubs dates back as
far as 1934, when a group of young
progressive thinkers established The Half
Hundred Club. Located in Londons Isokon
building, the club was part of a larger
(partly political) agenda to promote a more
communal way of living. Members were
limited to 25 and each could bring along a
guest, possessing no religious or other
taboos or unsociable characteristics which
may impede conversation.
Here was a group of people the countrys
first TV chef Phillip Holborn and The Good
Food Guides creator Raymond Postgate
among them who believed that the way to
change a deeply divided British society was
to make good food and drink available to all,
some of the best conversation and ideas
being forged around the dinner table.
Headed up by iconic designer Jack
Pritchard and wife Molly, the group set out
to challenge the traditional approach and
formality to mealtimes, famously eating an
antelope at an impromptu dinner held in
London Zoo.
Underpinning the entire concept of The Half
Hundred Club however, was the aim to offer
food that was suitable for the epicure of
modest means, a requirement which
Louise Barnard (pictured far right), founder
of the Bristol based Secret Service Supper
Club, thinks is just as important to the
modern equivalents springing up all over
the country: Nowadays people want more
from dining out, whether thats an element
of unpredictability, the chance to meet new
people, or better value for money we can
give them all of those things.
Taking the form of guerrilla get togethers
that are pre-booked by people without any
knowledge of where, what or with whom
theyll be eating, secret supper clubs are
becoming increasingly popular for those
seeking something out of the norm. Its not
a money-making venture in the same way
Secret
Suppers
Nowadays people want
more from dining out,
whether thats an element
of unpredictability, the
chance to meet new
people, or better value
for money.
Exciting though the emerging trend of secret supper clubs
may be for the adventurous epicurean, it seems the dearly
departed Egon Ronay was right in proclaiming that in the
world of food, there really is nothing new under the sun...
12-13 Secret Supper:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:06 Page 12
13
> flavour secret suppers
that restaurants are, says Louise, which
means well still provide the same
standards of food, just without the price
tag. A fair statement with 5 courses plus
canaps and coffee on offer for 25.
Having trained as a chef and practiced her
skills everywhere from Taiwan to Monaco,
Louise returned to Bristol 18 months ago to
continue her passion for cooking a little
closer to home. Yet unable to name drop
well-known UK restaurants as a means to
open doors, she decided instead to close
them: The aim of setting up a secret
supper club was to create a buzz and build
a reputation which were continuing to do
all the time diners often ask to come back
and volunteer at the next event because
they enjoy their experience so much! She
continues: What really keeps us going is
hearing how positive people are about the
whole experience we give them, that were
doing something thats both original and
appreciated.
With plans in the pipeline for collaboration
with circus acts and Halloween suppers
held in a crypt, pushing boundaries is as
much a feature of secret supper clubs as it
was 70 years ago, and this intriguing
phenomenon threatens to put overpriced,
soulless restaurants very much in
perspective...
To find out more about the Secret Service
Supper Club, look them up on Facebook
and Twitter (just be sure to keep it to
yourself!)
A SNEAKY PEEK AT A
Typical M
enu...
Canaps served with elderflower,
ginger and lemongrass cocktails
Mini salmon and cucumber
summer rolls
Jerusalem artichoke, bacon and walnut
pesto crostini
Rocket, potato and lemon soup with
homemade smoked garlic focaccia
Seared free-range duck breast,
pear slices and radicchio salad
Trout roasted with cherry tomatoes
and fennel
Organic, unpasteurised
Double Gloucester and chutney
Chocolate and panettone tiramisu
Coffee
12-13 Secret Supper:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:06 Page 13
>flavour columnist martin blunos
On my forthcoming agenda
I will be doing a couple of
demos for the Vintage at
Goodwood Festival. Its a big
event tracing everything from
fashion and music to lifestyle. The periods
covered are the 1940s right through to the
noughties. I am down to do a couple of
home style classics from the 1950s that
were (apparently) all the rage back then;
rice pudding and goulash. I cant fathom
why Ive been asked to represent the 50s
I must be showing my age. Maybe the
strawberry blonde Viking is turning into a
wheezing silver fox.
This classic period was obviously well
before my time (well okay, only just
before) but those classics have stood the
test of time and would sit happily on any
dinner table now and, saying that, in any
decade previous. Just goes to show that
family favourites prevail.
The set and I will be dressed from the
period. I cant wait, I might go the whole
hog and Brylcreem my hair into a neat
centre parting, wax my tash and wear a
monocle. Either way, itll be fun to go
retro, making and presenting rice pudding
and goulash with my own twist.
As a chef, it is presumptuous of me to
assume that at home everybody knows
how to cook these classic dishes, with
the recipes being handed down from
mother to daughter. But perhaps thats
just not the case. It has got me thinking
that for next years series of food festivals,
Ill go retro. So watch out in 2011 for the
likes of prawn cocktail, chicken in a
basket and Black Forest gateau ah the
good old days when life was peachy!
One of the South Wests most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath,
his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two
Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with
regular slots as guest chef on BBC1s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen,
ITV Daily Cooks and ITVs Saturday Cooks.
This month Martin Blunos steps back
in time to bring back some old family
favourites which never fail to bring a
smile to our faces
15
Ingredients
110g / 4oz short-grain pudding rice
450ml / pint single cream
450ml / pint full-fat milk
55g / 2oz caster sugar
freshly grated nutmeg
1 vanilla pod
25g / 1oz unsalted butter
Pinch of salt
Strawberry jam to serve
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 150C / 300F /
Gas 2 (10 degrees less for a fan oven)
and grease a 1.5 litre/2 pint ovenproof
dish with a little butter.
2 Rinse the rice under cold water and
place in the ovenproof dish. Place the
cream, milk, caster sugar and a
generous grating of nutmeg in a medium
saucepan. Scrape in the seeds of the
vanilla pod and the pinch of salt. Heat
gently until almost simmering, then
remove from the heat and pour over the
rice, stirring well.
3 Dot the butter over the top and place in
the oven for 1 hours, stirring after the
first 30 minutes. If the pudding still
seems very runny, return to the oven,
checking every 10 minutes, until it is
loosely creamy but not runny. The
cooking time will vary, depending on the
type and depth of dish you use.
4 When the pudding is golden brown on
top and has a soft, creamy texture,
remove from the oven and allow to rest
for 10/12 minutes before serving. (It is
like lava when straight from the oven so
beware)
5 After fighting with guests/family over
whos going to get the skin (the best bit)
serve with a generous dollop of
strawberry jam.
RICE PUDDING
GOING RETRO
15 MartinBlunos:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:09 Page 15
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>flavour columnist martin blunos
On my forthcoming agenda
I will be doing a couple of
demos for the Vintage at
Goodwood Festival. Its a big
event tracing everything from
fashion and music to lifestyle. The periods
covered are the 1940s right through to the
noughties. I am down to do a couple of
home style classics from the 1950s that
were (apparently) all the rage back then;
rice pudding and goulash. I cant fathom
why Ive been asked to represent the 50s
I must be showing my age. Maybe the
strawberry blonde Viking is turning into a
wheezing silver fox.
This classic period was obviously well
before my time (well okay, only just
before) but those classics have stood the
test of time and would sit happily on any
dinner table now and, saying that, in any
decade previous. Just goes to show that
family favourites prevail.
The set and I will be dressed from the
period. I cant wait, I might go the whole
hog and Brylcreem my hair into a neat
centre parting, wax my tash and wear a
monocle. Either way, itll be fun to go
retro, making and presenting rice pudding
and goulash with my own twist.
As a chef, it is presumptuous of me to
assume that at home everybody knows
how to cook these classic dishes, with
the recipes being handed down from
mother to daughter. But perhaps thats
just not the case. It has got me thinking
that for next years series of food festivals,
Ill go retro. So watch out in 2011 for the
likes of prawn cocktail, chicken in a
basket and Black Forest gateau ah the
good old days when life was peachy!
One of the South Wests most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath,
his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two
Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with
regular slots as guest chef on BBC1s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen,
ITV Daily Cooks and ITVs Saturday Cooks.
This month Martin Blunos steps back
in time to bring back some old family
favourites which never fail to bring a
smile to our faces
15
Ingredients
110g / 4oz short-grain pudding rice
450ml / pint single cream
450ml / pint full-fat milk
55g / 2oz caster sugar
freshly grated nutmeg
1 vanilla pod
25g / 1oz unsalted butter
Pinch of salt
Strawberry jam to serve
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 150C / 300F /
Gas 2 (10 degrees less for a fan oven)
and grease a 1.5 litre/2 pint ovenproof
dish with a little butter.
2 Rinse the rice under cold water and
place in the ovenproof dish. Place the
cream, milk, caster sugar and a
generous grating of nutmeg in a medium
saucepan. Scrape in the seeds of the
vanilla pod and the pinch of salt. Heat
gently until almost simmering, then
remove from the heat and pour over the
rice, stirring well.
3 Dot the butter over the top and place in
the oven for 1 hours, stirring after the
first 30 minutes. If the pudding still
seems very runny, return to the oven,
checking every 10 minutes, until it is
loosely creamy but not runny. The
cooking time will vary, depending on the
type and depth of dish you use.
4 When the pudding is golden brown on
top and has a soft, creamy texture,
remove from the oven and allow to rest
for 10/12 minutes before serving. (It is
like lava when straight from the oven so
beware)
5 After fighting with guests/family over
whos going to get the skin (the best bit)
serve with a generous dollop of
strawberry jam.
RICE PUDDING
GOING RETRO
15 MartinBlunos:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:09 Page 15
17
> flavour rise and shine
Of all the advice were given by people older and forever wiser, its
hard to deny one particular pearl of wisdom; breakfast is the most
important meal of the day. This month flavour jumps on the breakfast
bandwagon and sets out in search of the tastiest places to start your day.
Sitting on the harbourside opposite the SS Great Britain is
a sandwich shop with a charming difference. Brunels
Buttery is renowned for its character, service and
excellent food. Nowhere else in the city will you find a
sausage sarnie, a bacon butty or slice of homemade cake
as comforting and delicious as here. Also available are
homemade pasties, pies, scones and jam. This little gem
is everlasting proof that it is the little things that bring life
and character to the centre of the city.
T: 01179 291696 Wapping Wharf, BS1 6DS
Brunel
s Buttery
A stone's throw away from the beautiful Bath Abbey, Caf
Retro offers a venue full of character and cosyness.
Renowned for their hearty and delicious breakfasts, you
can chose from full English to continental, from eggs
benedict to a sausage or bacon butty or indeed muesli with
Greek yoghurt and a glass of orange juice. Unwind and
catch up with old friends over the sounds of jazz or maybe
a bit of latin. If you're in more of a hurry then take
advantage of their Retro-to-Go service and enjoy
delicious, freshly prepared food on the go.
T: 01225 339347 W: www.caferetro.co.uk
Souk Kitchen
Middle Eastern market food arrived in
Bristol last month courtesy of Souk
Kitchen. The restaurant offers authentic
street food dishes from all over the
Middle East, served up with a large dose
of the regions famous hospitality and
washed down with a delicious glass of
mint tea! Souk Kitchen is the place to
breakfast on North Street. Choose from
dishes such as shakshouka, a typical
Middle Eastern breakfast of poached
eggs cooked in a sauce of tomatoes,
peppers and onions served hot in the
pan with homemade zatar flatbread.
Alternatively a Souk Omelette or the
more continental French toast might
take your breakfast fancy.
T: 01179 666880
W: www.soukkitchen.co.uk
Wild
Caf
An easygoing caf
with a simple ethos
can be found tucked
in the cobbled
square of Queen
Street, Bath. The
Wild Caf is an establishment with a focus on local,
seasonal and sustainable produce cooked before your
very eyes in an open kitchen. Treat yourself to an all day
breakfast made from local produce or a fruit pancake
stack with seasonal fruit or perhaps even a kedgeree
brunch special with smoked fish from Cornwall will take
your fancy. With fresh, homemade dishes, cooked and
assembled to order with an efficient and friendly service,
this little gem makes your perfect morning start. Open
seven days a week from 8am-6pm during the week.
T: 01225 448673 W: www.wildcafe.co.uk
Caf Retro
16-17 Rise and shine:Layout 1 6/8/10 00:52 Page 17
R
i
s
e
&
S
h
i
n
e
!
16
> flavour rise and shine
R
i
s
e
&
S
h
i
n
e
!
Situated next to the Water Tower, Caf Retreat offers the
most splendid views of the Downs whilst enjoying a leisurely
drink and tasty snack. All the food is freshly prepared from
scratch, using only the finest local produce. With a wide
selection of breakfast treats available including smoked
salmon and poached eggs on a toasted bagel, or a simple
but very scrumptious breakfast bap, you will be more than
spoilt for choice when it comes to kick-starting your day.
Caf Retreat can also be found on Whiteladies Rd and
Victoria St and are available for private hire in the evenings.
T: 01179 238186 W: www.CafeRetreat.co.uk
Caf Retreat
Lockside
Lockside is Bristols waterfront caf offering casual dining
on the edge of the Avon Gorge, with spectacular views of
the Clifton Suspension Bridge. A perfect start to any
morning can be found with the early bird breakfast; a
delicious homemade cooked breakfast including all the
tea and toast you can squeeze in. Other dishes include
smoked salmon and rocket on a toasted bagel as well as
scrambled eggs with griddled ham. Quality is of
paramount importance to the Lockside, cooking the
freshest produce to very high standards.
T: 01179 255800 W: www.lockside.net
Riverside
A firm favourite with Bathonians and visitors alike, the
Riverside is tucked under Pulteney Bridge with spectacular
views of one of Bath's most famous landmarks, Pulteney
Weir. Open seven days a week, they pride themselves on
their winning combination of friendly service, relaxed
atmosphere, sumptuous food and glorious views. The
delicious breakfast menu (served 9.00am-11.30am daily,
from 8.00 am Saturday and Sundays) includes dishes such
as smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels, American
pancakes with bacon and Canadian maple syrup as well as
the classic Riverside breakfast.
T: 01225 480532 W: www.riversidecafebath.co.uk
Placed in the heart of Bath is a
little piece of Paris. Inspired by
the Parisian Cafes of old, the
beautiful terrace allows you to
enjoy your morning coffee in the
sun. There is an extensive
breakfast menu all freshly
cooked to order as well as a
mouthwatering selection of
freshly baked pastries,
croissants and teacakes, and of
course delicious coffee, teas and
freshly squeezed orange juice.
Open for lunch and afternoon
tea and evenings for drinks and
snacks with live music at the
weekends.
T: 01225 447147
W: www.leparisien.co.uk
Le Parisien
16-17 Rise and shine:Layout 1 6/8/10 00:51 Page 16
17
> flavour rise and shine
Of all the advice were given by people older and forever wiser, its
hard to deny one particular pearl of wisdom; breakfast is the most
important meal of the day. This month flavour jumps on the breakfast
bandwagon and sets out in search of the tastiest places to start your day.
Sitting on the harbourside opposite the SS Great Britain is
a sandwich shop with a charming difference. Brunels
Buttery is renowned for its character, service and
excellent food. Nowhere else in the city will you find a
sausage sarnie, a bacon butty or slice of homemade cake
as comforting and delicious as here. Also available are
homemade pasties, pies, scones and jam. This little gem
is everlasting proof that it is the little things that bring life
and character to the centre of the city.
T: 01179 291696 Wapping Wharf, BS1 6DS
Brunel
s Buttery
A stone's throw away from the beautiful Bath Abbey, Caf
Retro offers a venue full of character and cosyness.
Renowned for their hearty and delicious breakfasts, you
can chose from full English to continental, from eggs
benedict to a sausage or bacon butty or indeed muesli with
Greek yoghurt and a glass of orange juice. Unwind and
catch up with old friends over the sounds of jazz or maybe
a bit of latin. If you're in more of a hurry then take
advantage of their Retro-to-Go service and enjoy
delicious, freshly prepared food on the go.
T: 01225 339347 W: www.caferetro.co.uk
Souk Kitchen
Middle Eastern market food arrived in
Bristol last month courtesy of Souk
Kitchen. The restaurant offers authentic
street food dishes from all over the
Middle East, served up with a large dose
of the regions famous hospitality and
washed down with a delicious glass of
mint tea! Souk Kitchen is the place to
breakfast on North Street. Choose from
dishes such as shakshouka, a typical
Middle Eastern breakfast of poached
eggs cooked in a sauce of tomatoes,
peppers and onions served hot in the
pan with homemade zatar flatbread.
Alternatively a Souk Omelette or the
more continental French toast might
take your breakfast fancy.
T: 01179 666880
W: www.soukkitchen.co.uk
Wild
Caf
An easygoing caf
with a simple ethos
can be found tucked
in the cobbled
square of Queen
Street, Bath. The
Wild Caf is an establishment with a focus on local,
seasonal and sustainable produce cooked before your
very eyes in an open kitchen. Treat yourself to an all day
breakfast made from local produce or a fruit pancake
stack with seasonal fruit or perhaps even a kedgeree
brunch special with smoked fish from Cornwall will take
your fancy. With fresh, homemade dishes, cooked and
assembled to order with an efficient and friendly service,
this little gem makes your perfect morning start. Open
seven days a week from 8am-6pm during the week.
T: 01225 448673 W: www.wildcafe.co.uk
Caf Retro
16-17 Rise and shine:Layout 1 6/8/10 00:52 Page 17
The certainty for Old Man Vinces is not
that it opens 365 days a year because it
doesnt; the doors close on Christmas and
Boxing Day. Its not that the menu remains
constant and safe either, because its
frequently updated as and when the powers
that be fancy a change. The certainty
Vincenzos offers is an atmosphere that is
as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily,
and there is a good reason for that - this is a
bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run
restaurant.
The patriarch Vincenzo, and his wife
Teresa set up this little gem 40 years ago
as one of the first Italian restaurants in the
West Country and, but for a gentle tweak
here and there over the decades,
thankfully it hasnt changed that much.
The food is cooked to the same formula
Vince established when he first opened
the kitchen, albeit now by head chef
Guiseppe, a younger member of the
bloodline. The dcor is not Tate Modern, but
if you like postcards on the wall from the
thousands of patrons over the years and
empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the
ceiling, then youll be right at home.
The terrace is a bright, spacious, child-
friendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast
to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen
or so tables towards the reception area, but
both have their merits depending on your
mood.
Vinces daughter Isabella now runs the
show, with help from Guiseppe, Joe, Raff
(pictured right) and one of the old
favourites, Mario - a legend in his own right
but Isabella has stuck to her fathers
principles and kept Vincenzos as a little
community, with a huge and loyal following.
Italians dont suffer fools gladly and they
wont be rushed - life just happens and
works in its own time here but when your
There are many certainties in life death, disappointment, taxes,
the rain in Spain that falls mainly on the plain but according to
Nick Gregory, you can add to that list Vincenzos Pizza House,
situated just off Park Street in the centre of Bristol.
Vi n c en zo s
Pi z z a Ho u se
18
> flavour vincenzos
The certainty for Old Man Vinces is not
that it opens 365 days a year because it
doesnt; the doors close on Christmas and
Boxing Day. Its not that the menu remains
constant and safe either, because its
frequently updated as and when the powers
that be fancy a change. The certainty
Vincenzos offers is an atmosphere that is
as warm as the sun that sets over Sicily,
and there is a good reason for that - this is a
bonafide, homecoming, feet-up, family-run
restaurant.
The patriarch Vincenzo, and his wife
Teresa set up this little gem 40 years ago
as one of the first Italian restaurants in the
West Country and, but for a gentle tweak
here and there over the decades,
thankfully it hasnt changed that much.
The food is cooked to the same formula
Vince established when he first opened
the kitchen, albeit now by head chef
Guiseppe, a younger member of the
bloodline. The dcor is not Tate Modern, but
if you like postcards on the wall from the
thousands of patrons over the years and
empty bottles of Chianti hanging from the
ceiling, then youll be right at home.
The terrace is a bright, spacious, child-
friendly space to enjoy your meal, a contrast
to the intimate and conservatively lit dozen
or so tables towards the reception area, but
both have their merits depending on your
mood.
Vinces daughter Isabella now runs the
show, with help from Guiseppe, Joe, Raff
(pictured right) and one of the old
favourites, Mario - a legend in his own right
but Isabella has stuck to her fathers
principles and kept Vincenzos as a little
community, with a huge and loyal following.
Italians dont suffer fools gladly and they
wont be rushed - life just happens and
works in its own time here but when your
food is on the red-striped tablecloth youll
be pleased whatever your order. The pizzas
are as youd like them (without the price tag
of the well-known chains) and the pasta
and breads come in all shapes and sizes.
You will not leave here hungry. Ask for some
of Vinces bread to take home with you too
the missus will be pleased.
Ive been stuck refuelling a boat in the port
of Savona for a night and Ive had a two-
hour stop-off at Romes Leonardo da Vinci
Airport, so I wont pretend Im an aficionado
on everything Italian. But Ill tell you this,
had I disembarked or left duty free I
would have liked to have ended up
somewhere like Vincenzos.
Oh, and heres another certainty,
I will be back. Ciao Bella.
Vincenzos Pizza House
71a Park Street
Bristol
BS1 5PB
01179 260908
www.vincenzos-bristol.co.uk
There are many certainties in life death, disappointment, taxes,
the rain in Spain that falls mainly on the plain but according to
Nick Gregory, you can add to that list Vincenzos Pizza House,
situated just off Park Street in the centre of Bristol.
Vi n c en zo s
Pi z z a Ho u se
18
Vince's pizzas have long been considered the best around for those in the know.
20
> flavour bridge house
Apart from the fortunate few city slickers
who enjoy the best of both worlds, the
dream of swapping a concrete jungle for
green open spaces is commonplace.
If ever realised at all, this pipe dream is
usually reserved for the retirement years.
Not so for Mark and Jo Donovan, whose
previous careers as a television director and
fashion buyer respectively, were worlds
apart from the hoteliers they chose to
become. My job sometimes took me to The
Middle East for weeks at a time, explains
Jo, I absolutely loved what I did, but falling
pregnant called for a change of pace and
lifestyle.
When a thirteenth century hamstone house
came up for sale in the quaint village of
Beaminster where the couple regularly
holidayed, the time seemed right to embark
on a new adventure. The work undertaken
at BridgeHouse was certainly extensive,
beginning with a complete refit of all the
bathrooms and ending with a cosmetic refit
to make an interior designer proud. Vibrant
modern fabrics are tastefully interspersed
throughout the hotel with sympathetic
antique furniture, making BridgeHouse feel
at once cosmopolitan and cosy.
Now lets be under no illusion here: West
Dorset, home of Hugh Fearnley-
Whittingstalls River Cottage near
Axminster, Mark Hixs Oyster and Fish
House in Lyme Regis and Masterchef
winner Mat Follas restaurant The Wild
Garlic (a stones throw from BridgeHouse),
is a culinary haven. And then theres the
produce. The Ruby Red beef, the hand dived
Lyme Bay scallops, Denhays farmhouse
cheddar, and local cider the list is
endless.
With these enviable tools at his disposal,
executive chef Stephen Pielesz is best able
to showcase his Michelin star training,
which he does with notable flair. The menu
at the hotels Beaminster Brasserie, even
for the seasoned gourmand, makes for
interesting reading, with dishes seemingly
constructed to be full of flavour without
being over complicated.
To start, Stephens latest invention of
venison and quail Scotch egg, black
pudding, pea pure and homemade ketchup
(8.95) was as good as it sounds; a
luxurious nod to a British classic.
Given the proximity of the coast, the
panache of local fish, sauted samphire,
vegetable tagliatelle and caviar butter sauce
(19.50) proved irresistible and did not
disappoint. Beautifully poached, the fish
was lifted to dizzy new heights by the
saltiness of its emerald green bedfellow
samphire. Little wonder with an average
turnaround from sea to plate of just 12
hours.
Finally, a caramelised St Clements tart with
Somerset clotted cream (6.50) delivered
three desserts in one; the crunchy top layer
reminiscent of crme brule giving way to a
decadently rich citrus filling, supported by a
buttery biscuit base. Simply delicious.
Theres a palpable sense of pride and care
taken in all aspects of a guests stay at
BridgeHouse, whether its the impeccably
crisp white linen in the bedrooms, or the
extensive hand selected wine list. Should
you feel a little swamped by the choice on
offer, you can be assured of sound advice
from general manager come sommelier
Mark Pielesz. My chosen chalice was a
bottle of Chilean Pinot Noir from the
Casablanca Valley (23.95) one of the best-
structured examples Ive sampled outside
of Burgundy.
If the devil is in the detail, then
BridgeHouse is a damned great way to
simultaneously sample both the rural
charm of Dorset and the exacting standards
of London living. Hats off to Mark and Jo for
making a huge success of their new lives as
the consummate hosts.
This month, flavour takes a trip down to Dorset to visit
BridgeHouse, a small hotel with big aspirations
The BridgeHouse Hotel
Prout Bridge
Beaminster
Dorset
DT8 3AY
01308 862200
www.bridge-house.co.uk
BridgeHouse
20-21 BridgeHouse:Layout 1 6/8/10 10:36 Page 20
Theres a palpable
sense of pride and
care taken in all
aspects of a guests
stay at BridgeHouse,
whether its the
impeccably crisp white
linen in the bedrooms,
or the extensive hand
selected wine list.
20-21 BridgeHouse:Layout 1 6/8/10 10:36 Page 21
23
> flavour ask a chef
If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the
usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com
Q. Whats the best
flavour to go with
squid salad? I made
one recently and
found it quite bland.
Lindsey West,
Wiltshire.
A. Fresh squid is a delight. I open the
squid into a sheet and score the inside
with a knife into a checked pattern and
marinate it in garlic, chilli and olive oil.
To make the salad, I season and grill
the squid. The squid will roll back into a
cylindrical shape and cooks quite
quickly on a hot grill. The squid is then
cut into smaller chunks and dressed
with fresh lemon juice and olive oil.
To finish I add some rocket leaves and
a couple of sun-blushed tomatoes.
Q. How easy is it to make pte?
Maria Plummer, Wells.
A. Pte is fairly easy to make and can
be made from a number of different
meats. Chicken liver pte is certainly
one of my favourites. We add
reduction of Port, Madeira and
Brandy, cooked out with shallots,
garlic and thyme to give a beautiful
depth of flavour. The reduction is
liquidised with 500g of chicken liver,
500g of melted butter and 5
eggs. To ensure a soft
and smooth
consistency, we pass
the mixture through a
very fine sieve and
cook it to 63C.
Ask achef
(?)
R
onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie's Restaurant
in Thornbury. Ron has had a distinguished career working in
some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe,
for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking
for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill
and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus
showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as
the Good Food Guides 'Restaurant of the Year. Ronnies is based in
Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are
available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from
6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
Q. Whats the tastiest way to cook a sweet potato?
Simon Jones, Bath.
A. Sweet potatoes are extremely versatile. Ive
enjoyed them roasted, pureed, turned into soups,
fried and chipped, but a general rule of thumb is
that sweet potatoes can work very well with
spices. One of my favourite comfort foods is a
sweet potato roasted with cumin seeds and
seasoned with chilli flakes. Its something Id do at
home on a Sunday with a big juicy joint.
Ronnie Faulkner
Ronnies Tel: 0800 849 4455
www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Q. I love buying raspberries at this time
of year, can you recommend something
a bit different to make with them?
Matt Kennedy, Totterdown.
A. One of my favorite raspberry dessert is
Cranachan, a Scottish dessert of
raspberries, honey, whipped cream,
whisky and oats. Toast the oats under a
grill and while they are toasting, place
the raspberries in the bottom of a
tumbler, whisk the cream and add the
honey and whisky to taste. Cover the
raspberries with the cream and top with
toasted oats once they have cooled. Its
so simple but the flavours all seem to
work in perfect harmony. If you are into
making ice cream, try using
the same ingredients
with some creme
Anglaise to make
Cranachan ice cream.
Q. Im told that you can eat pork slightly
pink these days, is this true?
Stephen Casey, London.
A. The food standards agency will tell you
the best way to serve pork is cooked
through to avoid risk of illness. Because of
this I cannot advise you to eat pink pork and
very rarely serve prime cuts of pork in the
restaurant. However when I cook at home
I do serve pork loin rosie, the meat is still
hot in the centre, but it is beautifully moist.
I guess its a question of risk and reward.
23 AskAChef:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:19 Page 23
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23
> flavour ask a chef
If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the
usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com
Q. Whats the best
flavour to go with
squid salad? I made
one recently and
found it quite bland.
Lindsey West,
Wiltshire.
A. Fresh squid is a delight. I open the
squid into a sheet and score the inside
with a knife into a checked pattern and
marinate it in garlic, chilli and olive oil.
To make the salad, I season and grill
the squid. The squid will roll back into a
cylindrical shape and cooks quite
quickly on a hot grill. The squid is then
cut into smaller chunks and dressed
with fresh lemon juice and olive oil.
To finish I add some rocket leaves and
a couple of sun-blushed tomatoes.
Q. How easy is it to make pte?
Maria Plummer, Wells.
A. Pte is fairly easy to make and can
be made from a number of different
meats. Chicken liver pte is certainly
one of my favourites. We add
reduction of Port, Madeira and
Brandy, cooked out with shallots,
garlic and thyme to give a beautiful
depth of flavour. The reduction is
liquidised with 500g of chicken liver,
500g of melted butter and 5
eggs. To ensure a soft
and smooth
consistency, we pass
the mixture through a
very fine sieve and
cook it to 63C.
Ask achef
(?)
R
onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie's Restaurant
in Thornbury. Ron has had a distinguished career working in
some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe,
for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking
for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill
and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus
showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as
the Good Food Guides 'Restaurant of the Year. Ronnies is based in
Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are
available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from
6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
Q. Whats the tastiest way to cook a sweet potato?
Simon Jones, Bath.
A. Sweet potatoes are extremely versatile. Ive
enjoyed them roasted, pureed, turned into soups,
fried and chipped, but a general rule of thumb is
that sweet potatoes can work very well with
spices. One of my favourite comfort foods is a
sweet potato roasted with cumin seeds and
seasoned with chilli flakes. Its something Id do at
home on a Sunday with a big juicy joint.
Ronnie Faulkner
Ronnies Tel: 0800 849 4455
www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Q. I love buying raspberries at this time
of year, can you recommend something
a bit different to make with them?
Matt Kennedy, Totterdown.
A. One of my favorite raspberry dessert is
Cranachan, a Scottish dessert of
raspberries, honey, whipped cream,
whisky and oats. Toast the oats under a
grill and while they are toasting, place
the raspberries in the bottom of a
tumbler, whisk the cream and add the
honey and whisky to taste. Cover the
raspberries with the cream and top with
toasted oats once they have cooled. Its
so simple but the flavours all seem to
work in perfect harmony. If you are into
making ice cream, try using
the same ingredients
with some creme
Anglaise to make
Cranachan ice cream.
Q. Im told that you can eat pork slightly
pink these days, is this true?
Stephen Casey, London.
A. The food standards agency will tell you
the best way to serve pork is cooked
through to avoid risk of illness. Because of
this I cannot advise you to eat pink pork and
very rarely serve prime cuts of pork in the
restaurant. However when I cook at home
I do serve pork loin rosie, the meat is still
hot in the centre, but it is beautifully moist.
I guess its a question of risk and reward.
23 AskAChef:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:19 Page 23
24
> flavour valentine warner
When did you realise that good food was
going to become a way of life?
From an early age I was fascinated by all
kitchen goings on and also my mothers
cook books. I seemed to try and understand
the world by trying to cram everything in my
mouth. Although I went on to train as an
artist, switching to cooking was the one of
the clearest and most immediate decisions
of my life.
What are your fondest food memories as a
boy?
Making Sunday breakfast as a family we all
had a little job to do. I was normally on hot
milk and the whole operation was like a
well-oiled machine. My first real cup of
coffee was pretty important too. Whereas
before I had only smelt it, the taste blew me
away at 13 it also made me feel very
grown up. Eating my dads saffron-yellow
prawn curry, my brother and I counted the
prawns in our bowls and only dad was
allowed to have more than us!
Your roots are firmly based in the
countryside, how does that influence your
cooking style?
Theres so much tradition thriving in the
countryside. Youre always aware of the link
between the kitchen, wildlife and farming.
Its the outside brought inside and turned
into something good. Food tends to be more
in touch with the rhythms of nature. Its a
place where Im repeatedly delighted to find
things that I thought were gone forever. I
like a sense of history and simplicity in
cooking and thats often found in regional
country cookbooks.
Did it make you a more adventurous eater?
Being lucky enough to grow up drinking
unpasteurized milk and eating dishes like
Ahead of his visit to Bristol for the Love Cooking Festival, we caught
up with the quirky Valentine Warner to talk TV, travel and tattoos
10 questions with
Valentine Warner
Food tends to be more in touch with the rhythms of
nature. Its a place where Im repeatedly delighted to
find things that I thought were gone forever
24-25 Valentine Warner:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:21 Page 24
25
> flavour valentine warner
jugged hare meant I was never squeamish,
so the mushrooms, berries, rabbits and
trout I was shown would be in a pan in a
flash.
How did you end up with a television
series?
It was a very lengthy process, Optomen
approached me and then screen tested me
for four years. They said youre a little
strange but keep in touch, we got there in
the end though!
Was it daunting being in front of the
camera at first or were you a natural?
It was daunting at first, theres so much to
learn how to get information across to
viewers, making sure you finish your
sentences, looking at the camera etc. Its
not always easy and there were things that I
wish I could have said again, but I really
enjoy it and want to get better.
What have been your most memorable
meals from around the globe?
I have travelled quite a bit, and my parents
were good at taking us out to restaurants on
holiday when we were children. There are
too many good meals to mention, but I
remember eating a very young goat in
Greece that had been cooked in a charcoal
pit as the sun was going down, that was
amazing! We cut the meat and ate with
penknives.
Who do you admire in the foodie world?
Simon Hopkinson his cooking makes so
much sense, with a wonderful respect for
the old stuff. Alistair Little who I learnt
under was the master of shortcuts, and a
truly inspiring chef who helped me to
discover the kind of cooking I wanted to be
involved in. There are so many, and food
writers too like Elizabeth David and Jeremy
Round whose work I could never tire of
reading. The Dock Kitchen, Stevie Parles
new place in West London is amazing too.
If you had to cook a meal that represented
the best of British produce, what would you
choose?
Pork would have to be on the menu, we
should be proud of our pigs. Cheeses would
definitely make the final cut too British
cheeses are so underrated but fantastic.
And to drink it would have to be cider, no
one makes it like we do.
Tell us something about yourself that our
readers wouldn't know unless they met
you in person.
Apart from the tattoo of a giant squid
fighting a whale that covers my back and
arms, theres not really anything which
springs to mind
You can see Valentine Warner
demonstrating alongside Thomasina Miers
and James Martin at the Love Cooking
Festival at the Colston Hall. For more
information, visit
www.lovecookingfestival.com
VALENTINES PEA, SALTED YOGHURT
AND MINT SALAD
This delightfully easy, quick and fresh lunch can be thrown together with peckish
impatience in minutes. Having said that, it does require some strained salted
yoghurt to be on standby.
Serves 23
Ingredients
200g freshly podded peas
1 long red chilli
1 garlic clove
Juice of lemon
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
100g firm homemade salted strained
yoghurt (see page 138) or fresh soft
goats cheese
Flaked sea salt and ground black
pepper
Small handful of fresh mint leaves
Method
1 Bring a small saucepan of water to
the boil. Add the peas and return to the
boil. Cook for 2 minutes. Drain, then
plunge the peas into a large bowl of
iced water and leave until cold.
2 Deseed the chilli and chop into tiny
pieces. Rubber gloves here would be a
wise protection from wandering chilli
fingers. Peel the garlic and cut into tiny
pieces.
3 Drain the peas and put in a serving
bowl. Add the chilli, garlic, lemon juice
and olive oil. Season with salt and
plenty of black pepper and toss
together thoroughly.
4 Break the strained yoghurt (or
cheese) into mouthfuls and scatter over
the peas. Add the mint leaves, roughly
torn. Turn through the peas until lightly
mixed and serve.
24-25 Valentine Warner:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:21 Page 25
26
> flavour youth food
After attending the Slow Food international
congress in Puebla, Mexico in 2007, Katy
Davidson spotted an opportunity in the
already established movement: I found
that there werent enough young people
involved. If you havent got young people
coming through the door then the
movement isnt going to push forward.
The founder of Slow Food International,
Carlo Petrini then set Katy a challenge: to
bring a youth delegation of 1000 young
enthusiasts to Terra Madre, a bi-annual
conference concerning gastronomy,
globalisation and economics.
Katy set to work on her dining room table
armed with a laptop, a list of contacts and
plenty of enthusiasm. It took a year and in
2008 Katy employed over 24 people who
were inspired enough to form a committee
in Londons South Bank. The next aim was
getting it moving across the UK. Our actual
committee is made up of women and
everyone has plenty of flexibility when it
comes to ideas. We do have regional
representatives across the country but
theyre not very active at the moment. What
we are trying to do now is set up regional
groups so they have a framework.
Youth Food is a network of young people
who really want to make a difference in the
food world. The movement engages with
their audience in fun, interactive ways,
looking at social, political and
environmental issues at the same time. At
the heart of Katys credo however is the
importance of reminding people that eating
for a sustainable future is pleasurable. Katy
comments: One of our great focuses is
showing how vital food is within our society.
A family that eats around the table together
is a family that stays together.
Youth Food is run entirely by volunteers,
with all funding coming out of their own
pockets. The programmes that we run
have to be economically viable, for example
Skill Share was a concept I created to
encourage everyday people with specialised
skills and knowledge in particular sectors,
eg farming, to teach others and pass it on.
This programme allows knowledge of
sectors to grow organically. Its peer to peer
and makes things more accessible and
sustainable as well as giving people
confidence in themselves.
Youth Food has been busy forming
partnerships with other similar groups.
Working with the National Federation of
Young Farmers and the UK Climate
Great ideas come from great actions, initiative, dedication and of course,
quite a lot of belief. Katy Davidson, founder of the UK branch of the Youth Food
Movement, epitomises the very essence of such commitment.
Youth Food Movement
Youth Food hand people the key to playing an
active role in the circle of production, taking
back ownership of their food and being involved
personally.
YFM campaigners make their pledge for change
Katy taking part in Skill Share:
Oyster Shucking
26-27 Youth Food:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:23 Page 26
27
> flavour youth food
Coalition has enabled each group to get
their messages out and find out what the
issues are, combining skills, knowledge
and targets, thus opening debate on a
broader spectrum.
Hard work has been paying off for this
enthusiastic team with support coming
from many directions. Katy enthuses:
We won the Dandelion Award for Best
Newcomers from Cooperative and
Sustained Magazine. We also beat Hugh
Fearnely-Whittingstalls Landshare
programme, coming first. This was mind
blowing for us and really proved that our
doing Youth Food work after a normal day
jobs was really worth it.
Support has also come from renowned
chefs such as Oliver Rowe, Valentine
Warner and Artuthur Potts Dawson who
has allowed the Youth Foods headquarters
to be based at The Peoples Supermarket
in London, a members only supermarket
that offers a new way of shopping which
aims to change the way we buy food.
The support has been fantastic as people
can see a real need for this kind of
organisation. Other movements can be
quite narrow in their scope with regards to
food, we are the opposite and thats what
sets us apart. Katy continues: People
really enjoy us because we are so engaging
in public events. For example our pledge
blankets let people get involved in a happy
and creative way. Anyone can make a
pledge, creating the first steps for change.
The challenges have been simple ones
money and geography. With the project
being entirely self-funded, the team is
excited about achieving charitable status
and thus enabling to pay volunteers a
salary as well as enabling regional
committees the freedom and materials to
expand.
Youth Food hand people the key to playing
an active role in the circle of production,
taking back ownership of their food and
being involved personally. The dedication,
creativeness and resourcefulness of this
team are more than enough of a motivator
to dig out our own felt tip pens and make a
pledge to a more secure future for food.
W: www.youthfoodmovement.org.uk
T:07813792968
Eat-In Hyde Park: people
gathering to share a home-
cooked meal. The idea
originated in the USA, 2008
26-27 Youth Food:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:24 Page 27
The setting of the Richmond is unique and special and provides the
perfect location for enjoying long relaxing evenings soaking up the
sunshine in our South facing garden. A perfect little getaway to meet
up with friends, savour our seasonally inspired food, fine wines, real
ales, local cider and European beers whilst dining Al Fresco.
7 Richmond Place, Bath BA1 5PZ
www.therichmond.co.uk
Opening hours
Monday Thursday, 12 3 and 5.30 11
Friday and Saturday, 12 3 snd 5.30 12
Sunday 12 10.30
Lunch menu from 12.00 2.30, Monday to Saturday
Dinner menu from 6.00 9.30, Monday to Saturday
Sunday lunch from 12.30 6
THE
RICHMOND
29 Chequers/Richmond:P.52 5/8/10 22:29 Page 1
A beautiful Cotswold stone
house overlooking Stanton Lake
and park in beautiful Wiltshire
countryside
Rosemary Restaurant
Japanese Sunday buffet lunch
All you can eat dinner on
Thursdays
Japanese la carte menu
Afternoon cream tea
on the patio
The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD
Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857
Email: restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
Stanton House Hotel Stanton House Hotel
www. s t ant onhous e. c o. uk
28 Stanton:P.52 6/8/10 00:26 Page 1
The setting of the Richmond is unique and special and provides the
perfect location for enjoying long relaxing evenings soaking up the
sunshine in our South facing garden. A perfect little getaway to meet
up with friends, savour our seasonally inspired food, fine wines, real
ales, local cider and European beers whilst dining Al Fresco.
7 Richmond Place, Bath BA1 5PZ
www.therichmond.co.uk
Opening hours
Monday Thursday, 12 3 and 5.30 11
Friday and Saturday, 12 3 snd 5.30 12
Sunday 12 10.30
Lunch menu from 12.00 2.30, Monday to Saturday
Dinner menu from 6.00 9.30, Monday to Saturday
Sunday lunch from 12.30 6
THE
RICHMOND
29 Chequers/Richmond:P.52 5/8/10 22:29 Page 1
31
> flavour long shelf life
As part of a new series,
Helen Aurelius-Haddock
takes a closer look at the
culinary classics that
should be adorning every
cooks bookshelf...
LONG
SHELF
LIFE...
How many of us have decided to knock up
a soup from a few tired vegetables and a
salty stock cube, only to be faced with a
resultant grey sludge that appears to be
inedible? I suspect most. It seems we all
believe that if we can cook, ergo we can
make soup. This is simply not so.
The soup makers art is indeed a specialist
area. Based on one of the sacred tenets of
cooking, namely stock, its very essence and
taste come from a standpoint that a little
advance preparation is necessary if we are
going to enjoy eating it. Stocks are the
serious currency underpinning each book,
and it is clear that without this vital base
ingredient, soup is unlikely to please. Stock
cubes are most certainly not on the agenda
here.
To date, Covent Garden Soup Co. have
produced four charming ring-bound books
with faithful reproductions of the soups they
sell, plus a whole host of other soupy
goodies. Written in a hand fashioned font,
they are evocative of the personal kitchen
diary of any keen cook who wants to
scribble down a favourite dish in order to
preserve it for future reproduction.
Given that this month we are featuring four
books, it does beg a question: Is there really
that much to write about soup to fill them
all? Simply put, yes there is. Soup is a
varied feast in both flavour and texture,
from clear broths to a thick and chunky
potage. Like their product range, the Covent
Garden team have evolved and the later
books contain bean combos, breads,
garnishes and savoury butters. Even
moules marinire make an appearance,
supposedly as they can fit onto a soup plate,
who knows?
Inside, there are no glossy shots of antique
tureens amid retro cookware, or food styled
shots of croutons, bisques and the like. Just
a few sketches here and there to add a bit of
thematic context to a chapter or recipe.
To compensate, theres lots of newsy
snippets and witty quotations making the
books a treat to read for their own sakes.
Recipes are introduced often via the person
who gave it. Scottish grandmothers, retired
teachers, Valentina Harris, Iris Guilloux
from Biarritz, a nameless Iranian ex-patriot,
and Anna from the sales department all
make a contribution. Torn out cuttings from
dog-eared magazines and yellowed
newspapers kept and cherished for years in
kitchen drawers make an appearance.
Theres even an alphabetical listing of the
soups in the back where notes on variations
can be made. The result? A veritable
cornucopia of soups to provide something
for every taste.
The bewildering array of choice can be a bit
intimidating, but why not try one recipe
from each chapter from The Book Of Soups,
and choose the flavours that you find most
appealing? For my money this worked very
well, and at one point, I felt quite confident
that I could set up in competition with my
carrot and coriander and spinach with
nutmeg creations, save the issues with
copyright infringement that is. From there,
dabble with the others to your hearts
desire.
If coffee table cookbooks are your thing,
then perhaps these modest books might not
hold an initial appeal. However, with a bit of
patient reading and a touch
ofexperimenting, you will soon be hooked
on soup making and the evidence will no
doubt be duly spattered over the books
pages as culinary proof. I suspect they will
take pride of place on the kitchen shelf for
many years to come.
It seems we all
believe that if we can
cook, ergo we can
make soup. This is
simply not so.
31 Long Shelf Life:Layout 1 5/8/10 22:30 Page 31
Lucknam Park, Colerne,
Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ
Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777
reservations@lucknampark.co.uk
www.lucknampark.co.uk
AL FRYCD
DINING
THIS SUMMER
AT LUCKNAM
The Brasserie for stylish and contemporary
dining. Using locally sourced fresh ingredients,
our executive chef Hywel Jones has created
an innovative 2 course set menu for 16.
Available Monday to Friday, 12 to 3pm.
And available every evening 3 course
set dinner menu for just 27 per person.
For reservations please call 01225 740575.
Deli c Cleese tastin, every SaturJay witl Jenny Cane our awarJ winnin, cleese juJ,e
LLQ's every weekenJ tlrou,lout tle summer (weatler JepenJin,')
Many more events - please look at our website for furtler information
Newly extenJeJ cafe
r,anically reareJ meat from tle Neston lark Lstate
WiJe selection of artisan breaJs
linest Jeli witl variety of local anJ or,anic cleeses, meats anJ antipasti
Neston lark larm Slop Meat Loxes JelivereJ to your Joor
lree nature trail, play area anJ animals for clilJren
pen MonJay to SaturJay 9am-5.3Opm. SunJay 1Oam-+pm
lor more information contact Neston lark larm Slop on O1225 7OO881
Neston lark larm Slop ltJ, Latl lJ, /twortl SN12 8Hl www.nestonparkfarmslop.com
We also lave a slop in LraJforJ on /von - Tle Cleese LoarJ, 3Oa Silver Street O1225 868O+3
The freshest fish
available in the
shop or delivered
to your door.
The Scallop Shell, Whiterow Farm, Beckington, Frome
01373 831641
www.thescallopshell.co.uk info@thescallopshell.co.uk
Traditional Fishmonger
Seafood Deli
Home Delivery
Cookery School
This place is a gem
The Times Top 10 UK
Fishmongers,
July 2010
Brand new home delivery service
to Bath & surrounding area.
Visit www.thescallopshell.co.uk to order.
Special Offer for Flavour Magazine readers: for your first home
delivery order well include 2 of our best selling homemade fishcakes
absolutely free Quote Flavour100 when ordering.
56 Neston/Scallop:P.52 5/8/10 22:53 Page 1
57
> flavour drops by
The Scallop Shell
Whiterow Farm Shop
Beckington
Frome
BA11 6TN
01373 831641
www.thescallopshell.co.uk
Fish is high on the agenda for most peoples
summer menus, yet many of us can be
intimidated when it comes to cooking up the
fruits of the sea. Deciding on the best
preparation and cooking methods for the
type of fish you have, as well as matching it
with the tastiest ingredients available, can be
enough to knock even a capable cooks
confidence, forcing them to stick to a safer
dish.
Making things as easy as possible for the
customer is something that Garry Rosser,
owner of The Scallop Shell set in the idyllic
Whiterow Farm in Frome, aims to provide at
his counter: We dont get as excited about
fish in this country compared to the rest of
Europe, were scared by it. A lot of people
blame themselves if the fish dish doesnt go
well. In reality, the mistake probably already
happened back at the fishmongers because
bad quality fish wont cook well.
Reassurance, encouragement and passion
radiates from this engaging entrepreneur.
With over 20 years experience working as a
chef in Bath and Bristols top restaurants, 10
years of which were dedicated to working
closely with Fish Works creator Mitch Tonks,
Garry is more than qualified at pointing you
in the right direction. Im trying to put fish
back on the table and show people how easy
and delicious great fresh fish can be theres
nothing else quite like it.
Garry continues: Working with Mitch was an
amazing experience. The training was tough
but I learnt a lot and was excited to start up
on my own. I couldnt believe my luck when
I teamed up with Steve here who owns
Whiterow.
Despite seafood sustainability being a hot
topic among consumers, theres a lot of
conflicting advice over what to buy. A lot of
people are confused at the moment, says
Garry. The best thing they can do to help the
situation is to buy different species, dont just
stick to the favourites. Often youll come
across a variety that is tastier and cheaper.
Sourcing the best quality from the best
suppliers is essential for Garry, with stocks
coming up from the three major markets on
the South coast. Garrys main supplier is
Channel Fisheries, and if its good enough for
Buckingham Palace, then it is good enough
for his customers. I never know whats
going to come in that day. This morning I
pulled out a beautiful sea bass and the
quality was just incredible. On a Tuesday
and Friday Garry buys direct from small
boats in Weymouth, meaning that within 24
hours of being caught the fish can be on the
menu.
A few minutes in Garrys company will
convince you that eating fish every night
would be perfectly plausible. If youre in any
doubt, why not take the plunge and pay him a
visit
flavour
drops by...
the scallop shell
The Scallop Shell , a traditional fishmonger, seafood deli
and cookery school, now offers a home delivery service.
57 Flavour Drops by:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:58 Page 57
01934 876355 / 07990 572698
www.bluestonewater.com
Earth, fire and water are the three elements
that make up Bluestone, a garden design and
build service which provides a full garden
living experience. Through Bluestone, owner
Ben Pike brings together his two passions;
outdoor entertaining and beautiful garden
design, enabling you to live at the heart of
your own rural retreat.
Based at Middlecombe Nursery in
Congresbury, North Somerset, Bluestone
provide a friendly and professional service,
from concept through to completion.
Garden Design Studio, Middlecombe Nursery
Wrington Road, Congresbury
North Somerset BS49 5AN
58 Whatley/Bluestone:P.52 6/8/10 00:22 Page 1
59
> flavour reader review
THE SWAN INN
AT NIBLEY
BY JANE GALE, YATE
My husband and I recently decided to treat
our two adult sons to a meal at The Swan in
Nibley. The recommendation came from
friends who had fallen in love so much with
their meals at The Swan that they are now
newly converted regulars.
We booked our meal for last Saturday and
were glad we did as during the course of
the evening we played witness to many a
person being turned away. The staff are
friendly and welcoming and even to those
customers they couldnt seat, they offered
to phone the sister pub, The Squire Inn in
Chipping Sodbury, to see if they could be
accommodated there.
My husband ordered from the specials
board and had the slow roasted rack of
lamb in a redcurrant jus on a bed of spring
onion mashed potato, whilst I had the
salmon in a citrus glaze with fresh
asparagus and saut potatoes. One of our
sons chose the duck from the main menu,
cooked pink and with a cranberry, port and
orange sauce, whilst the other opted for the
sea bass fillets with king prawns in a lemon
butter sauce.
Judging by the spectacular presentation,
the chef obviously has an eye for colour as
well as complementary flavours. The wine
list is extensive and it caters for most
tastes. We chose the French Robert Skalli
Pinot Noir, which was a perfect match for
the duck and lamb. The New Zealand
Nobilo Southern Rivers Sauvignon Blanc
was another fine choice to sit with the
salmon and sea bass.
We all thoroughly enjoyed our meals and
just about squeezed in a dessert. The
temptation was far too high as they were
brought over to our table in order to tempt
us. If you are in any doubt as to whether or
not you should have a dessert, then you will
soon be swayed!
To finish we enjoyed brandy and coffee
whilst relaxing on the very comfortable
leather sofas. Sipping on warming after
dinner drinks in front of a large fire and
coffee table must be very welcoming in the
dark winter evenings. The manager even
mentioned they supply marshmallows and
skewers to toast in front of the fire.
The whole experience was one which we
would thoroughly recommend and we are
proud to announce we are now joining the
growing band of regulars who enjoy fine
food, wine and excellent service. We have
subsequently found out that this is a family-
run business and the constant care and
attention to detail are evident. We will
definitely be booking for next Saturday.
The Swan Inn at Nibley
Badminton Road
Nibley
BS37 5JF
01454 312290
www.theswanatnibley.co.uk
Tell us about your favourite place to eat
by writing to us at the usual address or
emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com
Well even give you one years free
subscription for your troubles!
R
E
A
D
E
R
R
E
V
I
E
W
59 Reader Review:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:18 Page 59
60
> flavour cornubia
The Cornubia
142 Temple Street
Bristol
BS1 6EN
0117 925 4415
www.thecornubia.com
The centre of Bristol is
changing. Everywhere you
look there are cranes and
construction sites: signs that
the city is a thriving and
robust 21st Century
metropolis. But look a little
closer and an older, gentler
Bristol is not too hard to find...
Take The Cornubia, for example. Set back
from Temple Street, dwarfed by
surrounding office buildings and a fire
brigade training tower, sits this traditional
one bar pub that is fast gaining a reputation
as a real ale mecca.
Pick your way behind the car parks of small
local businesses and you will enter a
tranquil haven from the hustle and bustle
outside. Far from the bland homogeneity of
branded pubs designed by a marketing
committee back at HQ, you meet with an
enchanting hotch potch of furniture and
fixtures. Here, a high-backed wooden
settle; there, a row of high chairs ranged
against reading shelves with an eclectic
collection of non-fiction books. Through the
archway, more traditional tables and chairs.
The walls are adorned with real ale pump
clips. And yes, those are live turtles in the
tank in the corner.
Built for a wig-maker named Charles Cox
around 1775, long before The Floating
Harbour or Brunels Suspension Bridge, it
has been a pub since 1859, and was the
brewery tap of Georges Brewery, and
subsequently a training and hospitality pub
for the Courage brewery.
The unusual name comes from the SS
Cornubia, a packet ship that plied its trade
between Bristol and Hayle in Cornwall (or
Cornubia as the Romans had called it) in
the days before Brunels Great Western
Railway had been extended that far west.
The SS Cornubia incidentally was later
purchased by the American Confederacy
and saw active service in the American Civil
War.
These days, the pub is in the hands of the
Hidden Brewery not far from Salisbury, but
is run independently by Phil & Jacki
Bennett. The atmosphere is of an
understated but nevertheless warm
the cornubia
60-61 Cornubia:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:25 Page 60
61
> flavour cornubia
welcome. There is informal chatter and
unobtrusive music in the background,
proving this is a place where it is easy to
leave the stresses and strains of working
life at the door.
Simple bar food such as homemade soup,
baguettes, jacket potatoes, rolls and Black
Country pork pies are on offer, but there is
no doubt that this is a pub aimed squarely
at the discerning drinker.
At any one time there are seven different
real ales, up to three traditional ciders and
a real perry. The selection changes daily
and no one real ale is there for more than
three days or so. You can always tell a good
real ale pub by the care that has gone into
choosing the variety of beers on offer. Real
ale has as much variety as wine does and
the choice at the Cornubia is designed to
appeal to all palates and moods.
Because the beers sell out so quickly, there
is very little risk of a beer in a tired or poor
condition getting to the pump, so this is an
excellent venue to sample the beers as they
should taste.
In addition to the real ales, there is
Thatchers Cheddar Valley Farmhouse
Cider, a bright orange cider which at 6.5%
is stronger than it tastes. Also available
direct from plastic polypins are Broadoaks
KB Cider and Premium Perry which, at
7.5%, are very sensibly only sold in halves.
The Cornubia is ten minutes walk from
Bristol Temple Meads station and is close
to a number of bus routes. There is a small
car park and pay-and-display parking on
the surrounding streets.
Duncan Shine
Raise a glass to...
Quantock Stout (4.5%)
A traditional stout with a real roasted
barley aroma and a moreish dryness.
GWB Summer Nights (3.8%)
A thoroughly quaffable straw
coloured, soft mellow beer from
Hambrook near Bristol.
Yeovil BST (3.8%)
A citrus, zesty pale ale with a clean
crisp taste. Smells to me of lemon or
even grapefruit.
Goffs Excalibur (4.5%)
From Winchcombe near Cheltenham,
a golden ale whose lack of bitterness
makes it deceptively drinkable for its
strength.
Arbor Old Knobbley (4.5%)
A dark ruby old ale from Bristol, with
a hint of warming chocolate and
coffee. A lovely beer for when the
summer isnt as warm as you would
like.
Hidden Pint (3.8%)
A tangy mid-brown bitter from
Salisbury. It is ideal for those who like
to be able to taste the malt in their
beer.
Hidden Spring (3.8%)
Also from the Salisbury brewery. This
is a ruby coloured fruity beer that has
a richness about it that almost puts
you in mind of a redcurrant jam.
Distinctive and memorable.
60-61 Cornubia:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:26 Page 61
The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ
Tel. 01761 221269
www.thebluebowl.co.uk
The Blue Bowl Inn
Country Pub & Restaurant
Good food, well kept ales
and a warm welcome!
39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR
Tel: 01225 892220
Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk
The Catherine Wheel
A pub with a buzz
Marshfield, the gateway to the
Cotswolds and just a few miles
north of Bath, is at the centre of
many spectacular countryside
walks. The Catherine Wheel,
nestled in the picturesque high
street, is renowned for its
traditional home cooked food.
Lunch alfresco in the sheltered
sunny courtyard or, when the
autumn chill sets in, make the
most of the welcoming and
warming fires.
THE LOVELIEST
FISH &CHIPS
IN THE
SOUTH WEST!
Papas Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~
Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN
Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com
FISH RESTAURANT
AND TAKEAWAY
PAPAS
Independently voted by
Daily Mirror readers as the
Best Fish & Chips in the South West!
~
Recent winners of
The Regeneration Partnership
and Weston Mercury and
Star FMs Business of the Year
Award
A traditional Food Hall
in the historic heart of
Bristol, where the
skilled preparation of
ingredients is
performed before you
by knowledgeable and
friendly staff.
Complementing this is
our Caf, which allows
you to enjoy our
amazing produce
cooked by our talented
chefs in a busy market
atmosphere.
GOOD FOOD STARTS HERE
SOURCE. 1-3 EXCHANGE AVE, SAINT NICHOLAS MARKET, BRISTOL, BS1 1JW
INFO@SOURCE-FOOD.CO.UK 0117 9272998
62 BlueBowl/Source/Catherine/Papa:P.52 5/8/10 23:46 Page 1
directory
Welcome to the flavour directory. Updated monthly, this directory
is your essential guide to featured businesses, organisations and
producers in Bristol, Bath and the surrounding areas. For our more
comprehensive online directory, visit www.flavourmagazine.com
BALMORAL HOTEL
Friendly, family-run hotel, restaurant and bar in
the heart of Weston-super-Mare. Full la carte
menu served daily.
Balmoral Hotel
66 Walliscote Rd, Weston-s-Mare BS23 1ED
Tel: 01934 633033
Visit: wwwwbalmoralhotelandstottiesbar.co.uk
BRISTOL SWEET MART
COUNTRY CUPCAKES
Our delicious cupcakes are made from the
finest ingredients and delightfully finished
by hand.
Country Cupcakes
Tel: 07801 280910
Email: nikki@countrycupcakes.com
Visit: www.countrycupcakes.com
A
D
VER
TISE
H
ER
E!
CALL FLAVOUR NOW
TEL: 01179 779188
BETTER FOOD CO.
Bristol's truly local award-winning organic
supermarket, cafe, grower and veg box
delivery service.
BART SPICES
A passion for offering the most wonderful range
of herbs, spices and coconut products allows you
to recreate and enjoy wonderful dishes from
every corner of the world in your own home.
Bart Spices
Tel: 0117 977 3474
Visit: www.bartspices.com
CAFE KINO
Friendly, vegan, vegetarian community cafe.
Enjoy fresh homemade sandwiches and
light meals as well as organic beers, wines
and ciders.
Cafe Kino
Kingsdown, 3 Ninetree Hill, Bristol BS1 3SB
Tel: 0117 9249 200
THATCHERS CIDER
For orchard fresh Thatchers cider visit our
Myrtle Farm Cider Shop, Monday-Saturday
9am-6pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10am-
1pm.
Thatchers Cider Shop
Myrtle Farm, Sandford, Somerset BS25 5RA
Tel: 01934 822862
Visit: www.thatcherscider.co.uk
More than just great food!
Lunch and evening dining, Tues to Sat 12.00-
3.00 and 18.30-22.00, Sun 12.00-15.00 and
Weds breakfast 8.30-11.00.
Bistro 507
507 Bath Road, Salford, Bristol BS31 3HQ
Tel: 01225 873108
The shop sits in the heart of an ethnically
vibrant community. Specialists in spices, ethnic
foods, frozen halal and seafoods. New in store
is the lovely deli selling chilled and hot food.
Bristol Sweet Mart
St. Marks Road, Easton, Bristol BS5 6JH
Tel: 01179 512257
BELTANE BED & BREAKFAST
Were within walking distance of Wells, next to
beautiful open countryside. We have spacious
guest rooms, king size beds with crisp white
linen and delicious, freshly cooked breakfasts!
Beltane Bed and Breakfast
Dulcote, Wells, Somerset BA5 3NU
Tel: 01749 671040 / 07801 654252
Visit: www.beltanebandb.co.uk
Better Food Co. The Proving House, Sevier
Street, St Werburghs, Bristol BS2 9QS.
Tel: 0117 935 1725
Visit: www.betterfood.co.uk
COUNTRY CATERING
Jackie Wallis provides interesting menus,
first class service and event coordination
for weddings, celebrations and special
occasions throughout the West Country.
Country Catering Marina Cottage, Alston
Sutton, Upper Weare Nr. Axbridge, Somerset
BS26 2LS Tel: 01934 732189
Visit: www.countrycatering.me.uk
BISTRO 507
> flavour directory
63
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64
> flavour directory
THE PONY & TRAP
Visit us at our 200-year-old country cottage
pub/restaurant for a memorable dining
experience.
The Pony & Trap
Knowle Hill, Newton, Chew Magna BS40 8TQ
Tel: 01275 332627
Visit: www.theponyandtrap.co.uk
THE STAR INN
The 16th Century pub is one of only two
pubs in the city to make the main listings in
the 2004 Good Pub Guide.
The Star Inn
23 The Vineyards, Bath BA1 5NA
Tel: 01225 425 072
Visit: www.star-inn-bath.co.uk
THE CHOCOLATE TART
Chocolate workshops for 'people who love
chocolate'! Great on your own or in a party.
Gift vouchers available.
The Chocolate Tart
The Old Malthouse, Congresbury BS49 5BD
Tel: 01934 876881
Visit: www.thechocolatetart.co.uk
THE FOLK HOUSE CAF & BAR
The Folk House Caf & Bar produces delicious,
fresh and affordable food using organic, local
and seasonal ingredients.
The Folk House Caf & Bar
40a Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5JG
Tel: 0117 908 5035
Visit: www.bristolfolkhouse.co.uk
TRETHOWAN'S DAIRY
Offering a range of our own cheese, Gorwydd
Caerphilly, made on the family farm in West
Wales, and our other favourite cheeses from
small producers.
Trethowan's Dairy
The Glass Arcade, St Nicholas Mkt, Bristol
Tel: 0117 9020332
Visit: www.trethowansdairy.co.uk
JACQUELINE'S RESTAURANT
We produce the finest products using locally
sourced and homegrown fruit and vegetables.
Also available are Jackies Country Larder
preserves and Chutneys.
Cotswolds88 Hotel
Kemps Lane, Painswick, Glous GL6 6YB
Tel: 01452 813688
Visit: www.cotswolds88hotel.com
THE BATH PRIORY
Michelin-starred and 3 AA Rosette award-
winning restaurant where you can enjoy
lunch or dinner with a view.
The Bath Priory
Weston Road, Bath BA1 2XT
Tel: 01225 331922
Visit: www.thebathpriory.co.uk
STON EASTON PARK
A superb mansion set in one of the West
Country's most romantic estates, exuding
elegance, warmth and comfort.
Ston Easton Park
Ston Easton, Somerset BA3 4DF
Tel: 01761 241631
Visit: www.stoneaston.co.uk
RIVERSIDE GARDEN CENTRE CAFE
Open daily with plenty of indoor and outdoor
seating. Food/drink is suitable for vegetarians
and is organic, fairtrade and mostly
locally sourced.
Riverside Garden Centre Cafe
Clift House, Southville, Bristol BS3 1RX
Tel: 01179 667535
PULLINS BAKER
We've been baking in Somerset since 1925,
creating beautiful artisan loaves using
traditional methods, real ingredients and
family recipes.
Pullins Baker
Tel: 01934 832135
Visit: www.pullinsbakers.co.uk
RONNIE'S RESTAURANT
In the heart of Thornbury, Ronnies offers
lovingly prepared food and exceptional
service in a fresh and stylish setting.
Ronnie's Restaurant
11 St. Mary Street, Thornbury, Bristol BS35 2AB
Tel: 01454 411137
Visit: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
RIVERFORD
Riverford Organic Vegetable Boxes are now
available for home delivery in North Somerset,
Bristol, Bath and surrounding areas.
Riverford Organic Vegetable Boxes
Order today, Tel: 0845 600 3211
Visit: www.riverford.co.uk
JACQUELINES RESTAURANT
63-64 directory:Layout 1 6/7/10 19:42 Page 64
GOOSEBERRY FOOL
Serves 4
Ingredients
400g gooseberries, topped and tailed
2 tbsp caster sugar
250g double cream (for a healthier version
use half crme fraiche and natural yogurt)
200g fresh vanilla custard
3 tbsp elderflower cordial
1.5 tsp vanilla extract
1 Put the gooseberries in a pan with the
sugar and 2 tbsp water. Gently stew for 10-
15 minutes until the gooseberries are soft.
Drain some of the juice if necessary. Leave
to cool and mix in the elderflower cordial.
2 Softly whip the cream with the vanilla
extract. Fold the cooked gooseberries into
the cream.
3 Spoon alternate layers of gooseberry
cream and custard into glasses or glass
bowls. Decorate with whole cooked
gooseberries. Sprinkle with crushed
digestive or ginger biscuits or honey-toasted
rolled oats for a crunchy top.
TOP TIPS
1 Elderflower cordial is an amazing
ingredient add it to whipped cream
desserts like pavlova to add a touch of
je ne sais quoi.
2 You can turn these ingredients into a
Gooseberry Eton Mess just add crushed
meringues to the layers.
I feel so passionate about these amazing little fruits. Its such a short time of the year
that theyre in season so embrace it! I thank my mother for educating me in the pleasure
of fresh, seasonal and local fruit so this recipe is dedicated to her with love and thanks.
65
> flavours food heroes
Feeling inspired by our talented readers, each month flavour will
be looking at the unsung heroes of the foodie world you!
This month we talk to Fiona Morgan whose passion for supporting
local and seasonal produce is destined to inspire all of us
> Whether you want to give us your favourite brownie recipe or have a friend who breeds
their own pigs, please email faye@flavourmagazine.com or call us on 01179 779188.
I
f theres one thing Fiona Morgan is no
stranger to, its sampling the flavours of
the world, whether that be the unique
sweet, sour, hot and salty dishes of South
East Asia or the aromatic spices of South
India, or even the sub tropical, fresh
produce and herbs found in Australia.
However, wherever she has been, a passion
for British cuisine has always had a settled
place within her heart.
When a person has dedicated parts of their
career to the foodie world, just because
they have a sheer enjoyment for it, or have
moved across the country to be closer to
food markets and to have their own
vegetable patch, or even when a person
schedules their holidays around the food on
offer, then you know you are in the
presence of a true food lover. Something
Fiona Morgan radiated as soon as I made
contact with her:
I just love cooking and preparing food.
I have been blessed with wonderful food
cooked for me by my family and friends
over the years and have eaten in some
amazing restaurants. Most of my fondest
memories are those around the dinner
table!
Fiona gets herself involved in lots of foodie
events, from food festivals to Soil
Association talks about food security.
Adopting beehives, signing petitions and
getting involved in campaigns such as
supporting the amazing varieties of British
apples we have access to are just all part of
the course. I just like to be really aware of
what is going on in the wonderful world of
food. There may be over 2000 varieties of
apples grown in this country, over 500 types
of pears, over 200 varieties of cherries and
plums - the list is endless. Why can we only
get Braeburn, Gala and Granny Smiths in
the supermarkets?
Having to accommodate coeliacs disease
has meant a change in lifestyle for Fiona,
something which she has embraced. I feel
so much healthier now and have definitely
got more energy. It took a while to adapt but
it just means you have to be more
organised. I love fruit and veg so it wasnt a
big sacrifice.
Fionas passion for great food is bound to
get even the biggest novice hooked. As
Fiona demonstrates, food is both a
personal and social experience and can
enrich and inspire our own lives, as well as
others.
FLAVOURS
FOODHEROES
Signature Dish Signature Dish
65 FoodHeroes:Layout 1 6/8/10 09:49 Page 65
66
> flavour food for thought
The egg is a food that sits so majestically at
breakfast, lunch and dinner and has the
social mobility to look just at home fried on
a shovel, as it does poached in a truffle
velout. An egg can star on its own, but then
wows the audience playing supporting roles
in pastry, cakes and all manner of sauces.
The trouble is, eggs is not eggs (sic). In fact
of the 11 billion eggs consumed in the UK
each year, the variation in quality, freshness
and animal welfare, may well be a true
representation of the rapid post-war decline
in food standards and the slow climb back.
If you look at the path eggs have taken, from
backyards to mass production, its a good
indicator of all the wider trends in the UK.
Eggs led the way with a drive towards free-
range, organic and more recently local and
home production, but this is still less than
half of the 11 billion consumed. Only when
you crack open a fresh, free-range egg do
you really notice the dramatic difference in
quality and value for money. A fresh organic
egg is a joy. An intensely reared, twenty day-
old ovum, is a product.
At the Bath food festival last month, I was
lucky enough to meet some of the team
from local, organic and free-range egg
producers, Eggsilicious. Producing eggs to
the highest standard of animal welfare, as
defined by the Soil Association, Eggsilicious
are committed to ensuring the best
environment for their hens (and quail) on
their Wiltshire farm. As a result they enjoy
egg production at levels easily on a par (if
not superior) to intensely reared birds. As
one of the partners Julian Goodwin points
out you can only get out of animals what
you put into it.
Eggsilicious provide around a hectare of
land per thousand hens, well in excess of
the standard for free-range birds. Theyre
allowed to scratch and peck, take dust
baths and perch in the sunshine; all in open
organic land, which is rich in insect life,
thus stimulating natural behaviour. As
Julian concludes when was the last time
you saw seagulls following a plough?
Intense farming on agricultural land is
starving it of a natural ecosystem and this is
becoming increasingly apparent in the
quality of our food. Too much of our egg
production is simply artificial.
By 2012 the EU will outlaw conventional
barren cages (which still represent around
58% of UK egg production), replacing them
with so-called enriched caged
environments. These provide additional
space per hen (by about the size of a
postcard) as well as limited perching,
nesting and scratching facilities (areas,
which are often protected by more dominant
birds). The hens will in many cases still be
standing on wire mesh floors and some will
still be denied fresh air and sunshine. Its an
improvement, but there is still some way to
go.
Even free-range eggs production is not
always what it appears. Many of the birds
will never actually go outside and the
intensity of the sheds is so high that
conditions are not too dissimilar to caged
environments, with little scratching and
foraging actually occurring. Dont get me
wrong, I know this is by far a better
environment. Furthermore, I sympathise
with egg producers on tight margins, who
have been continuously screwed down on
price. I think we have to work together.
The trouble is EU standards are not
necessarily transferable. By increasing
(even very marginally) the cost of producing
eggs in the UK and the wider EU, imports of
cheaper caged eggs will find their way into
more price sensitive processed foods. Here
there is limited labelling on the origin of the
eggs used and certainly no information on
the conditions of the hens laying them. Even
now, the RSPCA estimate that around 85
per cent of eggs used as ingredients in
processed foods, are still from hens kept in
cages.
So what to do? Well, buy your eggs from
local, free-range and better still, organic
producers. Eggsilicious supply at a national
level, but they also supply to local shops,
like Neston Park farm shop and direct to
hotels and guest houses, including The
Bath Priory. They have also started to
deliver direct to homes and offices. Perhaps
this is the beginning of a regular egg-round,
placing greater emphasis on the
importance of eggs, on their quality and on
ensuring animal welfare. One can hope so.
Its time to go to work on eggs.
is anOeuf
An Oeuf
As we eagerly await the arrival of better caged environments for
our hens, Nathan Budd takes a look at the marginal differences
in quality to negative impact.
66 Food For Thought:Layout 1 5/8/10 23:50 Page 66
67 Sharps ad:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:58 Page 1
Facilities will include:
A state of the art hydrotherapy pool
A thermal suite which includes
a sauna & steam room
Relaxing foot spas
Experience showers
Beautiful treatment rooms offering
[comfort zone] treatments
A tness suite with Technogym
equipment
A stunning spa terrace overlooking
the gardens
Changing rooms with lockers and
complimentary towels
UNVEILING AT
THE MOUNT
SOMERSET
THIS OCTOBER
For more information call us on 01823 442500
or visit us at www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk
MEMBERSHIPS, DAY PACKAGES AND TREATMENTS AVAILABLE.
The Mount Somerset
Lower Henlade
Somerset TA3 5NB
Telephone 01823 442500
Fax 01823 442900
thespa@themountsomerset.co.uk
Book any one hour facial in October
& November and receive free use of
the facilities. Quote MS01.
Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.
68 Mt Somerst ad:Layout 1 5/8/10 21:39 Page 1