COSMETIC TESTS ON HUMAN SKIN MODELS: REALITY AND VISIONS

Werner Voss, Ilsabe Bunge and Claas Rueffer

DERMATEST, Medical Research Company, Engelstrasse 37, 48143 Muenster, Germany.
Tel: +49-251-4882249. Fax: +49-251-4902727 E-mail: dr.voss@dermatest.de; dr.bunge@dermatest.de


ABSTRACT

Physiological measurements for efficacy in cosmetics are still debated and are often not reproducible.
Skin models may solve a lot of these problems
. We developed a huma 3D skin model and now we can
demonstrate different histological and physiological effects in human skin. For future developments of
cosmetics this will be a good and stable method for detecting new effects in cosmetics and
pharmaceuticals products. In this model it is possible to compare histological, physiological and genetic
parameters within a time of 4 weeks. This method could accelerate and quantify cosmetic tests on human
skin. Physiological, histological and genetic results showing the influence of different ingredients and
hazards on the tissue development are presented. It could be shown that several test procedures are
possible using this model. This is a good way to make cosmetic testing faster, more reliable and results
more comparable. We are busy developing more test set ups to widen the range of this model for
cosmetic testing.



In vitro skin equivalents are composed of a highly differentiated, stratified epithelium which resides on top
of a dermal matrix with incorporated living fibroblasts. Despite their simplified model-like character,
organotypic skin equivalents are capable of a far-reaching recapitulation of the in vivo keratinocyte
differentiation program. But in contrast to real skin the in vitro 3D skin models are quite short-lived.
Nevertheless, for a limited time period skin models are capable of sustaining a constant pool of skin cells
to keep their epidermal structure maintained. Most interestingly full thickness skin models permit the
analysis of dermal influences on the epidermal tissue rejuvenation and differentiation process. Therefore
3D skin models are a tool to study effects on skin renewal and epidermal homeostasis. We use the
Phenion

FT skin models with standardized media and conditions.

Control without active Application of vitamin D3 day 3

Application of vitamin D3 day 4

Our intension for using this model was the detection of basic effects of cosmetic ingredients.

As a result we can show that the proliferative activity of basal keratinocytes and fibroblasts can be
modulated by external stimulation. When grown in basal medium without growth stimuli, cells in epidermis
and dermis showed a basic cell cycle activity. Explicit stimulation of cell growth could be triggered by
application of growth supplements into culture media, which leads to a noticeable increase of cell
proliferation activity in epidermis and dermis. On the other hand the increased proliferative activity of
stimulated epidermal and dermal cells could be silenced again when an explicit pro-inflammatory milieu
was created by addition of interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1a) into the culture media. As expected, the data
revealed that the proliferative cell activity in skin equivalents reacts dynamically according to the type of
stimulus.

3 D skin models offer the opportunity for a differentiated analysis of dermal and epidermal viability. We
could prove this by incubation with Vitamin A and D3 substances in named concentrations with a
markedly positive influence on tissue viability.

Conclusion: 3 D skin models are useful tools to study cosmetic and medical active ingredients.They
extend the possibilities of testing cosmetic effects.

Keywords: human skin model, cosmetic tests, skin damage, skin care