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Painting 1: Starting to Paint
Written by
Ian Simpson
Contents
Learning to paint
You and your course
The paints for the course
A list of basic materials
Additional materials
What you should start collecting from now on
Keeping sketchbooks
Keeping a logbook
Visiting museums and galleries
Annotating
Theoretical studies
Reading and books for the course
Monographs
Starting your logbook
Extending course projects
Deciding where to work
Using the text
Your timetable
Making a start
Brushes
Paper size
Using acrylics
Making a start with oils
Project 2: solidity
Stage 1: drawing an apple
Stage 2: painting an apple
6: Composition
A good composition
A painting rectangle
Painting before composition
Shapes for paintings
Theoretical studies
Project 2: geometry
What you need for this project
Artists and geometry
The golden section
Stage 1: hidden geometry
Stage 2: a geometric grid
Stage 3: using the grid
Stage 4: what have you achieved?
Project 3: composition in practice
What you need for this project
Three-dimensional composition
Four practical composition problems
Stage 1: using preliminary studies
Stage 2: the flexible approach
Stage 3: what have you achieved?
Further reading
8: The figure
Theoretical studies
What you need
Project 1: figure at a table
Stage 1: the subject
Stage 2: a working drawing
Stage 3: starting the painting
Stage 4: developing the painting
Stage 5: what have you achieved?
9: Expressionism
Theoretical studies
What you need
Project 1: associations
Stage 1: a starting point
Stage 2: a different approach to painting
Stage 3: painting
Stage 4: what have you achieved?
Project 2: atmosphere
Stage 1: a starting point
Stage 2: preliminary drawings
Stage 3: painting
Stage 4: what have you achieved?
Further reading
Project 3: a townscape
What have you achieved?
Project 4: a waterscape
Stage 1: visual research
Stage 2: painting and reviewing
Stage 3: what have you achieved?
Looking back at the course
Further reading
The drawings made in Project 1 should have given you a good idea of the best
viewpoint for painting the same group of objects. Put the earlier drawings
away and prepare to make a painting of approximately A2 size from the
position which gave you your most successful drawing.
Although this drawing will have given you a vantage point from which to
start work, don’t try to make your painting a direct copy of the drawing. This
time you’re going to begin by drawing in the main shapes of your subject in
very thin paint. Look for the most interesting shapes. These may turn out to
be different from those in your earlier drawing because as you look at a
subject over a period of time your attitude towards it changes.
You pass the spot each day. You know and love every brick and tree.
Suddenly, in a moment, everything is changed...
First draw in the outlines of the main shapes of the objects. Do this with a
small brush and black paint diluted by water (or turps, if you are painting in
oils) to make it very thin, so that the lines can just be seen. Once you have
drawn them (and perhaps redrawn them), don’t paint the objects, but begin to
paint the shapes between them, using black, white and yellow ochre. These
shapes are often called negative shapes as opposed to the positive shapes of
the objects themselves (see below).
Paint everything you can see which makes the negative shapes interesting in
themselves - such as a slight change in the colour of the table-top - and appear
to be in their correct place in your painting. It may seem odd to you to be
concentrating on painting the negative shapes but as you do so you will see
the positive shapes of the objects emerging.
STAGE 2: Developing the Painting
As your painting begins to develop, you will almost certainly find that the
positive shapes, having been left white (or grey, if your board or paper is
grey), will stand out like ghostly cut-outs. You will need to ‘kill’ the white or
grey ground by over-painting with a single suitable colour and tone, still
restricted to the limited palette. This will leave the positive shapes as a simple
abstract pattern, seen against the more detailed treatment given to the
negative shapes.
There’s a very important lesson to be learned here. Often the best way to get
the elusive shape and form of an object is by painting the shapes and forms
around it, rather than by painting and repainting the object itself. In later
paintings you will be painting the objects but nevertheless this approach of
carefully considering the shapes between objects will continue to be a most
important painting strategy.
You now need to consider where the edges of the painting should be. You
may already have decided that they should be well within the edges of the
paper or board on which you’re painting. Even if you think you have
successfully designed your painting within the confines of the rectangle, try
masking off sections of the painting with strips of white paper as you did
with your drawings. Be certain that you eventually have the most satisfactory
design framed within your paper strips. It may be a different shaped
rectangle from the original A2 size rectangle. It may be square. Mark the
position of the masking strips on the painting so that you can replace them
when you come to refer to the painting.
This section has started you painting but it has compelled you to concentrate
on looking, selecting and translating what you see. You may have found the
restrictions welcome because they directed you to what you had to do. You
may have found them frustrating because they didn’t allow you to paint the
kind of picture you would have liked to paint.
There’s no reason why you shouldn’t paint a picture describing these same
objects if you want to later on, but the object of the course is not to produce
finished descriptive pictures, although I hope you’ll make paintings you will
learn from and think worth keeping. My aim is to get you to experience a
series of different approaches and attitudes which will help you to develop a
better understanding of seeing and painting. As you continue you will paint
better, with greater skill, but the learning process never finishes. Hokusai, the
Japanese artist, envisaged the age of ninety as when he would have
penetrated the mystery of things and a hundred and ten as when, ‘Everything
I do, be it but a dot or a line, will be alive’.
You have searched for the position which gives the best viewpoint of your
objects; you have translated what you have seen into simple shapes, and
finished by painting the negative shapes only, using a restricted palette.
When you review your work, ask yourself these questions: were there better
viewpoints than the one you chose? Did you choose the best drawing to
develop? Did you use only four tones in your charcoal drawings to translate
the tones in your group of objects? Would you change any of the tones in
your drawings if you started again?
You will have another opportunity to consider this same subject again later.
However dissatisfied you are with your drawings and paintings, I hope that
you feel you have learned something about shapes and tones. If you have
only discovered your own inadequacy, don’t be discouraged. I firmly believe,
as I said in the introduction, that everyone can learn to draw and paint. But it
needs practice and cannot be achieved overnight or after a few hours work.
Many artists practise drawing every day just as musicians practise their
instrument. They are exercising not just their hand but their eyes and the
coordination between hand and eyes.
Make some notes on what you feel you’ve achieved or failed to achieve and a
list of possible questions for your tutor. These notes and questions, and any
subsequent comments or advice from your tutor, should eventually be placed
in your logbook as a record of your artistic development. If you do have your
work assessed formally at the end of the course, they will form part of the
evidence of your judgment.
Let your tutor see all your work because this will help her/him identify any
special help you may need.
This is a sample from Painting 1: Starting to Paint. The full course contains 31 Projects and
5 tutor-assessed Assignments.