TextileProcessingChemistry

Lecture2

Textile Raw Materials

Thescienceoftextilematerialsincludes:FibersandChemicals Fibersaredividedintotwogroups NaturalFibersincludestheproteinfiberssuchassilkandwool,celluloseanditsrelatedfiberssuch ascotton,linen,ramieandjute,pluscertainotherminorvegetablefibersderivedfrompalm,banana, sunhemp,pineapple,coconut(coir)etc. Manmadefibersofnaturaloriginarederivedfromcellulosesuchasrayon,acetateandtriacetate, howeverthemanmadefiberofsyntheticoriginarepolyamides(nylons),polyacrylics andpolyesters. Theseareproducedbythepolymerizationofsyntheticchemicals.

Chemicals used
Largenumberofchemicalsusedintextileprocessingareduetotwofactors: 1.Thosewhichareintendedtoremainonthefibersuchasdyesandfinishes 2.Thosewhichareintendedtowetorcleanthefibersuchassurfaceactiveagentsorsurfactantshavinga hydrophobicendandahydrophilicendrepresentedbyRYwhereRislonghydrocarbonchainandYmay bechargedpositively(QuaternaryammoniumNH4+ ornegatively(COO ,SO4,PO4 orneutralmoiety( Ethyloxylate (CH2CH2O)n.

Types of Textile Chemical processing

Preparation It is a group of wet chemical processes for the removal of all foreign matter from the fabric this rendering which is usually accomplished by washing with water and mild detergent which is capable of emulsifying the oils and waxes. Special scouring processes are necessary for cleaning materials like silk and wool, since the protein fibres are very sensitive to alkali and strong detergents, they are usually washed with sulfated alcohols

Mercerization
Mercerizationisaspecialprocessappliedonlytocotton. Thefabricoryarnistreatedwithstrongsodiumhydroxidesolution(20%),whilebeingheldunder tension. Thisprocesscauseschemicalandphysicalchangeswithinthefiber,resultinginsubstantialoncrease inlustre andsmoothnessofthefabric. Thisalsoimprovesdyeaffinity,stabilization,tensilestrengthandchemicalreactivityofthematerial

Coloring
Coloringofthetextilesisaccomplishedby1)Dyeingor2)Printing. Dyeingconsistsofimmersingthefabricoryarninasolutionofadyestuff,whichinturnisattractedto thefiberandpenetratesthroughit,therebyrenderingcoloredfabric. Printingincontrastisdonebytheuseofpigmentswhichareneithersolubleinsolutionnorinthe fiber,theyaresimplydepositedonthesurfaceofthefabric,generallyheldbyaninsolublebinder.

Dyestuffs
Thechoiceofdyestuffdependsonthephysicalandchemicalnatureofthefiber,varioustypesof dyesusedare: Directdyes:Thisdyeisapplieddirectlytothecloth,usuallylowcostandeasytoapply. Developeddyes:Thisdyeisappliedtotheclothanddiazotized,andthecolorisdevelopedwitha secondarychemicalcalleddeveloper. Naphthol dyes:Thenaphthol isappliedtothedeveloperforcoupling,thusproducingfurther brightnessincolor. Sulphur dyes:Thisdyeisputontheclothinareducedstateandisthenoxidized. Anilineblackdyes:Anilineisoxidizedonthefabricbyairorsteamaging. Vatdyes:Thisdyeisputontothefiberinitsreducedstateandisthenoxidized

Other Dyeing Chemicals

Manyotherchemicalsareusedinthedyeingprocessapartfromdyestuff.Theyareusedwithanaim toincreasethedyepenetration,forcolorbuildupgraduallythusensuringuniformity. Othertypeofchemicalsaremigratingagentswhichhelpthedyemoleculestomovefromonesiteto anotherwithinthefibertherebypromotinguniformity. Penetrants maybesurfactantsofappropriatetypewhicharemainlyusedinthecaseofpolyestersand areknownasswellingagents. Retarderagentsbyuseofeitheramaterialofreversechargeoranonionic,orboth,toforman unstablecomplexwiththedyestuff.

Finishing
Finishingincludesagroupofmechanicalandchemicaloperationswhichgivethefabric itsultimatefeelandperformancecharacteristics. Thefabricmaybecompressed,tominimizeshrinkage,orthesurfacemaybepolished orroughened.Allthesesprocessesaremechanicaloperations. Manyotherdesirablecharacteristicsmaybeimpartedtothefabricthroughthe applicationofvariouschemicalfinishingagentsincludedaschemicaloperations.

Chemical Operations
Softerners areusedtogiveadesirablehandorfeeltothefabric. Thesearechemicalswhichmayhavesolubilizing groupssuchascationic,nonionicorrarelyanionic havingalongfattyacidchain. Incaseofcellulosicfabrics,variouscrosslinkingagentsareappliedtoreactwithcellulosechains andimpartresistancetoshrinkingandcreasing. Othertypesofhighlyspecializedtreatmentssuchasantistatic,antibacterialorsoilrepellentfinishes maybeappliedtogetspecialeffectonthefabric.

MechanicalOperations
Finishesareusuallyappliedbyanoperationknownaspadding,whichconsistsofdrawingfabric throughawatersolutionofthechemicalbeingapplied,followedbypassagethroughasetofsqueeze rollswhichremovestheexcessliquid. Awettingagent,orapenetrant isfrequentlyincludedinthispaddingsolutiontohelpbetter penetrationintothefabric. Sometimesthesolutionsredirectlysprayedonthefabricinsteadofpaddingtoreducetheuseof excessofwater.