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1 11fJ.1( J1J^JJl>.
DEsPITE its great nntiquit)'-for it existed already in
the time of Homer-Smyrna retains little of its original
splendour. I saw, for my part, no other ancient ruins,
than three or four gigantic Roman columns, overtopping
the finil modern architecture whieh surrounded them.
These crumbling columns-relics .of a temple of Jupiter
or of Fortune, I am nut sure which-arc very remarkable,
and ought to bave exercised the sagacity of the learned.
I saw them only from the top of a donlcey's back; and am,
therefore, unable to ofer an elaborate opinion in regard to
them.
Ti1e coasts of Asia are much less arid than those of
Europe ; and I remained on decl1 so long as the daylight
alloYed me to distinguish the outlines of the land.
The next day, when the dawn appeared, we had passed
Mytylene (the ancient Lesbos); the birth-place of Sappho.
In front of us, on our right, is seen a fiat expanse of land;
it is the Troncl :
'
" Campos ubi 'roju fuit;"
the ver
y
soil of epic poetry, the theatre of fable, the spot
doubly hallowed by the genius of Greece and the genius
of Rome ;-by Homer and by Virgil. It makes a strange
impression, to fnd one's self thus in the midst of poetry
and of mythology. As Jneas recited his history to Dido,
11 1\A1.~J1Y J^JlC- 69
from the height of his lofty couch, I can say, fom the
height of the deck, nnd ith more of truth,
"Est in conspectu 'l'cncdos i"
for. there, behold the isle whence issued the serpents
who wound in their deadly folds the unhappy Laocoon
and his sons, and furished the subect of a master-piece
to the sculptor ;-Tenedos, over which reigned Phcbus"
Apollo, the God of the silver bow, invoked by Chryses ;
and see, lleyoml, the soil which Protesilaus (the frst victim
of U war, doomed t destroy a nation) dyed with his
blood, ns with ,a propitiatory libation. That undefined
heap of rubbish in the distnce was the Scrnn Gate,
whence Hector issued wearing that scarlet-plumed helmet
which so al armed the little Astyanax; and beside which
were seated in the shade the old men who did homage to
the beauty of Helen. That sombre mountain, clothed in
U mantle of forest which extends to the verge of the
horizon-that is Mount Ida, the scene of the Judgment
of Paris, where the three rival godesses-Juno with
the snowy arms, Pallas-Athene of the sea-blue eyes, and
Aphrodite of the magic girdle-stood revealed in undraped
loveliness before the entranced rustic; and where also
Auchises proved the intoxication of celestial nuptials, and
rendered \r en us the mother of .neas.
The Grecian feets were ranged along this coast, upon
which rested the black prows of the war-galleys, drawn
half\vay up upon the sands. The exactitude of Homer's
local descriptions, is apparent in every detail of the 800DC.
1 strategist might easily trace , with the " Iliad'' in his
hand, every incident of that C''entful siege.
'Vhile thus recalling my classic reminiscences, I gaze
upon the Troad: Stalimene-tlle ancient Lemnos, whieh
received in his fall Vulcan, precipitated from heaven-
10 CONSTANTINOPLE.
rises from the sea, and lifts behind us its yellow pro
montories.. I begin to wish that I were sUpplied, like
Janus, ith two faces. Two eyes/ are really a very scant
supply; and man is certainly much inferior in that respect
to a spider,-who, according to some nuturalists, has no
less than eight thousand of those organs. I turn my head
for a moment, to throw a glance vpon that vol.:anic island,
where were forged the arms-ofproof of the heroes
favoured by the gods, and also those iro: ripods, Iiving
sIavea cI metI, `hich served the Olympians in their
celestial abodes; but the captain pulls me \ the sleeve,
to show me, upon the Trojan shore, a mound whose conical
form betrays the haucliwork of man, and wc ia said to
cover the remains of Antilochvs, :he sou of Nc!:tor and
Eurydice ; the frst Greek who slew a 'rojan at the cpening
of the siege, and 'vho himself perished by the hand of
Hector, VD10 parrying a blow which lIemnon aimed at
his father.1 Does Antilochus truly repose beneath thi:'
tumulus? Tradition afrms it; and what inducement has
tradi tion to tell a flsehood?
As we advance we discover tvm other tumuli, not fur
fom U little village called Y cni-Scheyr, distinguished by
a row of new windmills, similar to those of Syra. The
nearest, as you approach from Smyrna, and the nearest also
to the sea, is the tomb of Patroclus ;-the ccar fricnd,
the brother-in-arms ancl in afection, the inseparable
companion, of Achilles. There was erected that gigantic
funeral pyre, sprinkled with the blood of innvmera\lc
Yictims, upcn which Achilles, intoxicated with grief, cast
four priceless steeds, two dogs of noble breed, and twelve
Troan youths-all sacrifced by his own hand to te mavea
cf bia hend, wl1ile around the pyre tIe mourning anny
celebrated funeral games, which continued for many days.
Accoring to Homor, Antilochus was killed by Mcmnon.
J1 .J 11L1.. 71
The second mound, frther inland, is the tomb of
Achilles himself ; or, at least, such is the name it bears.
According to the Homeric legend, the ashes of Achilles /_
were mingled with those of Patroclus in a golden urn;
and thus the two friends, inseparable in life, were even more
closely united in death. The gods themselves mourned
tIe decease of the hero : Thetis issued fom the sea with
a choir of mourning nereids; the nine muses wept and
chaunted mournful songs ruound the funeral couch ; anc
tIe bravest of the warriors joined 1n sangunary games in
honour of the dead.
This mound, therefore, shuld Ie the tom
b
of some other
chief--Grccian or Trojan; very probably of Hector. In lIe
time cf Alexander, the plUce of the tomb of the herc of
tIe ". Iliad " was stilllmown; for the conqueror of Asia
pavsed there, saying that Achilles was indeed fortunate in
having such a friyml as PUtroclus, and aveh a chronicler as
'Homer. Alexander had but Ephestion and QuintusCurtius;
and yet his exploits surpassed those of the son of Peleus;
and this time history was engrafted vpcn mythology.
While I talk about Homeric geography, and the heroes
of the ''Iliad" (a pedantry pardonable and innocent, in
view of Troy) , tho Leonis continues her voyage, retarded
little by the north wind, which is blmving stongly from
tIe IIacl 8ea; and we draw near the Strait of tbe
DardUnelles, defended by two strong fortresses-the one
upon the European, the other on the Asiatic coast. Their
cross-fre bars the enlrance of the strait, and renders
access, 1J not impossible, at least exceedingly difcult, to
a hcstile feet. But to nish with the Troad, let us observe,
that beyond Yeni-Scheyr, a stream cI water empties itself
into the_Bosphorus, which is said to Ie the ancient Simois,
-br by some the Granicvs.
The Hellespont, or Sea of Helle, is very narrow, and
12 LL^cA^`l11.
resembles mther a river u\ I8 UOlID IU u veritable sea.
Its breadth does not exceed that of the Thames at Graves
end. As the wind was favourable for cominn out inIo
C
the Jgean Sea1 we met u crowd of vessels, which np
proached us with all sail set, and studding-sails run out,
and, from a distance, resembled the outline of women
carrying a pail U each hand, and dancing along towards
us. The European shore, which we coast somewhut
clohel y, consists of rugged hills, spotted with some patches
of vegetation, bat of aU aspect generally arid and mo1o
tnous. The Asiatic coast wears a much more cl1eerful
look, and presents an appearance of northern verdure,
which according to preconceived ideas, would be more
suitable to Enrope. At one moment, we were so near the
shore, as to discern fve Jurkish cavaliers, riding along a
pathway, which nm round the base of the rising shore, nnd
looked like a narrow strip of yellow riband. These horse
men erved us as scale, to measure the elevation of the
shore, which proved inueh greater than we had supposed.
It was near this spot that Xerxes caused the bridge to
be constructed which he designed for the passage of his
army, ant subsequently caused the sea to be fogged, for its
disrespectful behaviour, in breaking the bridge constructed
by so magnifcent a monarch. Judged upon the spot, and
under the excitement of it hihtoric nssociations, this
act, cited as the height of nDD0U van\ty and flly, hL\1>
rather rational than otherwise.
One thinks also of Sestos aud Abydos, made memorable
by the legencl of Hero Und Lean
_
der; but fnds the Helle
spont l1ere contrnctcd to a breadth of only 875 fet. Lord
Byron, as is well known, renewed the exploit of Leander,
wiIhout being lover. In fact, De VUh hiDself the
" Hero" of his wn exploit; and, instead of fndiDg a
lovely maiden awaiting D\D on his emerging from the
'riE TROAD.-THE DARDANELLES. 73
wave, he found only a fever. He took 1 hour nnd ten
DiUutes t accompliGh the feat, and seemed more proud
of it, thnn of the authorship of" Childe Harold," or "The
Corsair "-nn UH` j1'0J1'( of the swimmer, quite con
00\VuDt by those `ho h:we ever prided themselns upou
their prowess in that art.
\Ve paused for a morneDt, but without mabnc land
ing, before town over which foated the standms of tho
consulates of man
y
nn.tions, and which was en1i\encc by
the Gails of severl W:D0m\JS revolvin
g
furiousl
y
in the
fresh breeze. Outside of the town, the earth Y0S mottled
with 'vhite and green tents, Lenenth which soldiers were
0n0amped. I do not tell you the precise Dm:C of this
plnce, because ench perhon hom I asked gave it H dif
frent designation-an occurrence by no U\U1G IUI in H
country 'vhere, to the primitve LJ0CK nuDC, is superadded
a Latin appellation, overlaid by a Turkish one, upon ''"hich
is engrafted yet uUother, of either French or Engl[sh, hy
way of renderiDg the matter quite clear. I believe, how
C''er, that this name ,.,.us Chanak-Knlcssi, '"hich we
]uropCans render freely by " Dardanelles "-it being, in
fact, the town which hns given a name to the strait.
The wind, the curret, nml the smnH extent of the
channel, render the waters somewhat. rough; and the
short swell tosd about, most unceremoniously, a boat
with several rowers, whose pccupnnts ha\ led the Leonidas,
0nd boarded her, U order to proceed by her to their dcs
tinntion. This boat curried Pasha, bound for Gallir)olis
'
'
at the mouth of the Se: of Marmora. He VUh big man,
with thiok neck and shoulders,. and a large, heavy face,
but with something fne beneath its heaYiness. Jt W08
dressed in the horrible costume of the Nizam-the red
'' fez,'' or cap, and a blue fock-coat, buttoned straight to
the tbront. A numerous snite surrounded D1DOU001S
F
CO!STANTINOPLE.
secretaries, pipe-bearers, and other domestic ofcers, with-
.
out cointing CUUGo and domestics. All these people
unfolded carpets) or unrolled mattresses, and seated them
selves upon tber, with the exception of Bome few, better
bred, who sat down upon the benches, and consoled
themselves for taking that unnaturUl position, by holding
one of their feet in one of their hands, as a comfort and an
occupntion.
Their luggage was curious. There lvcre narghiles,
enclosed in red morocco cases; packets of pipe-stems, of
cherry or jasmin ; baskets, covered with richly-gilded
leather, to do duty us portmanteaus
;
rolls of Persian
carpet, and piles of cushions and footstools. There were,
among this band, some singularly striking "types."
Among others, a f1t youth, very plump, very rosy, very
fair, 'Yho had the 1ir of !n enormous English baby, dressed
up as a Turk
;
and a thin Greek, pointed, angular, with a
muzzle lilw a fox, Luried in a long pelisse of cloth, bor
dered with fur, similar to those in which the actors play
Bajazet. These two enclosed the fat Pasha, lihe the two
horns of n parenthesis, and appeared to Yie with each
other in entertining their master. 'he costumes of the
infriors of the party were iu keeping with their character;
-broad belts, bristling with arms; embroidered vests;
braided jackets, with superbly-decorated hanging sleeves;
and the physiognomy of Albanian or Arnaout bandits.
Thus clad, these vassals had the air of Eastern princes,
and their masters that of valets de place out of work.
As the fast of Ramadan was in progress, neither
mnster nor slave touc
h
ed the chibouque ; but were obliged
to pass the time in sleeping, or in running the beads of
their chaplets through their fngers.
Of the Sen of :armora, properly so called, I can give
no precise detail, because it was night when we traversed
TITE TROAD.-TIE DARDANELLES. 75
its waters, and I was asleep in the recesses of my c.bin,
ftigued by a previous promenade of fourteen hours on
deck. Above Gallipolis, the sea broadens considerably, to
contact itelf ngain at Constantinople. The Pasha and
his suite were landed at Gall ipolis ; the minaret of which
were indistinctly visible, amid the flling shadows of the
evening.
\hen day appeared, on the Asiatic coast, the Olympus
of Bithyni n, crowned with eternal snows, Teared its lofy
crest amid the rosy clouds of morning, glisteni11g with
variegated shades of purple and silver. The coast of
Europe, infnitely less bold, was also visible, dotted with
ranges of white mansions and masses of verdure, above
which rose tal chimneys of brick-obelisks of industry
the red colour of which, at a distance
,
rendered them
strikingly like the red granite obelisks of Egypt. If I
were not afraid of being accused of a desire to indite a
paradox, I would say, that all this region seemed strikingly
like the Thames, between the Isle of Dogs and Greenwich.
The sky, very milky, opal-like, almost white
,
and sufused
with a transprent mist,. enhanced the illusion, until it
seemed as i f I were approaching London, in the Boulogne
packet; ancl I almost needed, to undeceive myself, a glance
at the red fag, bearing a silver crescent, which we had
hoisted on entcting the Dardanelles.
In the dist::mco, now nppcnrs the little archipelago of
the Isles of Princes-the scene of suburban water-parties
from Constantinople,. on their Sabbath (Friday). A few
minutes more, and Stamboul itself appea!S i all its
splendour.
Already, on the left,. through the silvery Yeil of mist,
the peaks of many mnaret are visible-the Ctle of the
Seven Towers (where formerly ambnssadorswere imprisoned
on the outbreak of wa with the country which they
F 2
70 L^bJc^J^1'1L.
represented) displtlys its mnssi\e turrets and embattled
'alls ; its base buing washed by the sea, while its rear
abuts u[on the hill Vhich rises abruptly behind. It was
here that the anCient 1D[u:I cOnn0:Cc0 whicl1 form0rly
encircled the town as f1r as Eyonb. The Turks call the
castle Yedi-Kulc, and the Greeks n.amcd it IIc
p
tnpurgon.
Its construction dates back to the Byzantine Emperors.
It wns commence0 by Zcno, rmd fnisl1cd by Commenus.
Seen fom. the sea, it seems in a ruinous co11tlition, and
1enty to crurble to uCu6 ncvertltdess, it produCes a
striking efect, with its heavy outlines, its bulky towers, its
massive walls, and its mingled aspect of bastile and fortress.
The Leonids, relaxing her specd, in order not to arrive
too early, grazes the angle of the S0raglio. It presents
range of long, whitewashed ''mlls, relicyecl 0
-
gains1 8c:00D8
of cypress and tamarind trees
;
apartments with trellised
'vindows, 0U0 kiOsks with overhanging rOofs with J [0-
tence to symmetry. There is nothing to recall tho mag
nificenct with which render of" 'lho Arn.hian Nights" un
cOnsciOusly associates the word '' srU glio ;" and it must be
confesse0, tmt these wooden boxes, with their grated
windows, enclosing tho beauties of Georgia, Circassia, and
Greece (houris of that paradise of MOhammed of which
the Padiscbah is the deity), curiOusly resemble large cages
:lled with comcstie fowls.
\V C Europeans, arc in the habit of confounding
Moorish and Turki sh architecture, whCh hnxe, in truth
nothing in common ; and we make, involuntarily, an
Alhambra of every seraglio-whieh is fr epough fiom the
- reality. But these remarks do not prevent the Seraglio
fror ofering a very pleasing aspect, with its brilliant
whit0 walls and its masses of dark verdure, lying betw0en
the clenr sky nnd the blue 'vater, whose rapid curent
wash0s its mysterious boundaries.
J11 JV\A111 !!A^1.]S. 77
As we [us8 the!e is po1nted OuI to DS an inclined
plane, poj ecti ng from un o[0nj ng in the ;vall, and
overhanging the sea; forming, in fi1ct, H Rort of " shoot,"
such as we see in mine8 and 8ome kinds of fnctorics.
It is by that opening 1 i8 said, that those Odal1squ08
WuO u1C guilty of infcelity, or who .hn:e 0:s[00800
the Sultnn, n:0 [:0c1QI010U into the deep uLU rapi d waters
of the Bos
p
horus, enclosed in a sack together with n cu!
and H serpent
;
these last being considered emblems of
domestic infdelity and treachery.
At present, howe ve:, VC u10 tolU thnt with the a(h-ance
Oenlightenment, these ex0cutions hnvc b0en discontinued.
And U08100S this, the tradition nmy U0utterly fnlse J1UJ
ticully D0!Uu1Ou6ns it is. If iI be not true, and I do not
guarantee it, it has at le0sIa locn1 colour1ng Opossibility;
and there 1S little coubt, that females have been sometimes
suUm0rged in the Bos[horus imprisoned in 80cK8 \\DC\D01
Uy this p0rti cula: channel or otherwise.
We donble the Seraglio-Point; the Lconas halts n1
the entrance of the Golden Horn. A manell ous panorama
displays itself before our eyes, like tho grand theatrical
scene of some oriental spect.'cle.
The Gol0en JO:n 8 a bay, of ;vhich \he Seraglio
Point, and the port of Top-Hane, form the two capes, and
which penetrats into the city, lying in nn amphitheatre
upon it \Vu sl1mes, as far as the " Sweet \aters," and
the mouth of the Barbys0s, a little triUutary stream. Its
name of Golden Horn is derived, no 0oubt, fiom its forming
a literal " cornucopia ' ' fr the city, u!0 cont:iUut1ng to
it wealth, by the facilities which it 0for0s to \D0 shipping,
to commerce, nnd to nava cOD81:DclOD8.
\: aiting DnIil
08 uC Cuu
8ua!Cu 1hrOu_u !DC Clo8C-duwn vCil),
Umau 1uC mCu Ol
O
)
.
01)U_ C 0810. WCu !DCj 0l!0u !uC 0_C
o lDirty yCaI8, thC Su!au _VC8 _Cm188IOu !O CC!uu O
hi8 . 80VC8 t? m0ry ; 0ud !uC_ C alway8 Om DO8l
UC8UuUC 00uCC8 Ou 0CCO0ul O !C IClulOu8 WDICu lhe
0ICO 00 8u[[O8Cd !O UC~uD!C !O maintain W!D the
_a00C, 0ud uC Dou.Our `\uicD 0!!uCuC8 !O their having
founed 0 part of !C HD_C! uou8Chold.
Be8des tui8, C) 0C always WC CUuC0!Cd ; kowing
how
_
to Cnd, wnte, muKC VCI8C8, duuCC, ud play upon ..
mu1eal D8!IumCul8 uud uuVC 0!8O !uC 8I0!Cy m0UuC:8,
V!1Cu 0C 8u[OSCd !O lC u0quud a! COUI! Ou. JC_
usu
_
aly po8se88, mOCOVC, lO!D lC 8KI uLd u0UI! of
_O
:
tlC cabal and ulr
g
UC uud O1Cu lCau, thrOu_D
then \nCudS WuO ICmuu u lDC ua:em, 8!0!u 8CCC!8, of
`\m2.
03
which their husbands nvail \DCm8C!V08 tO win a !0\Ou1 O
uVOd d dis_racC . O m0
ribed tIe
following legend : " Extrait pour l e Mouchor : Par
s,
:Miel
.
" whil H similar scroll upon the reverse, dts-
playe
'
c : Extrait double, qualite guarantie de miel :
. .,.. .
I
) . "
. J. Piver, 103 Rue Samt-J.n. nrtm, ans.
222
CONSTANTJNOPLE.
XVIII.
` 11 'Y1Jb OJ' CONS1'ANTI NOPI.E.
I !i formed U decided resolution to make a grand
expedition among those remote di stri cts of Constantinople,
which UlL hut mrcly visit ed by trvellers ; their curiosity
seldom extcncling farther than the Bezcstin, the Atmei
cl nn, Snltan-Bnazet, the Old Seragli o, :e tho environ
of Saint-Sophia ; around ":hich localities is concontratccl
the l i fe and movement of tho Moslem City.
I started, accordingly, at an early hour, accompanied
by a young Frenchman, who had been a long ti me resident
in Turkey. \e descended rapidly the slope of Galata ;
?rosscd the Golden lorn, by the bridge of boats, on pay
mg four. paras to the toll-keeper ; and leaving YeniDjami
at one side, we plunged boldly into a labyrinth of narrow
streets and lanes, of the purest '\trkish character.
As we advanced, the scene became more lonely ; the
dogs, gro\Ying more savage at each stage of our progress,
glared sullenly at us, nnd followed growling atonr heel:.
Tho wooden houses, discoloured and dilapidated, with their
crumbli ng l attices nnd foors out of line, presented much
the appearance of decayed hen-coops. A fountain, i n
ruins, allowed its water to escape tluough various O1
THE WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 223
icgarded crevices. into a green and slimy basin. A dis
mantled turbe (funeral chapel), overrun with briars, nettles,
and dafodils) displayed, through its cob-web covered
gratings, some clingy sepulchral columns, leaning to right
nncl left and ofering to view only U few illegible inscrip
tions. 1 marabuut reared its coarsely whitewashed dome,
flanked with a minaet which rcsemblecl a tall candle
surmounted by its extinguisher ; above the long line of
walls projected the sable cones of cypresses, and tufts of
sycamore, or plane-tree, hung over into the streets.
No more mosques with columns of marble, and
Moresque balconies ; no more ko11acks of pashas gloing
with
-
brilliant colours, and sustaining their elegant aerial
galleries ; but, instead, great heaps of cinders, fm. amidst
which rose blac" and grimy chimneys, formed of bricks
placed on end. On every side, decay, dilapidation, and
neglect ; and above all this squaor and abandonment,
the pure, dazzling, implncoble sun-light of the Orient,
making even more painfuly obvious . every miute detail
of the wetchedness around.
Through lane after lane, crossing after crossing, we
reached a large dilapidated khan, with loft arches, and
long stone walls, originally designed _to accommodate
caravans with trains of camels.
It was the hour of praer ; and from the exterior
gallery of the minaret of the nei
g
hbouring mosque, two .
muezzins, clad i white, and moving around the gallery
with the step of phantoms, proclaimed the sacramental .
formula of Islam to these mansions, deserted, blind and
deaf, and losing themselves in silence and solitude. The
verse of the Koran thus . proclaimed, and which seemed
almost as if it had been uttered from heaven (so devoid
was the region of any movement of humanity), called forth
no other response tha _ sort of sigh from some dog whose
24
CONSTANTI:OPLE.
vas lat
, mtL I
ute tumcs, I00 ClJ
s !
Although I do not profess opinions of the
.
Votmre
school on the subj ect of miracles, I did not tlunk
:
t ne
cessay to go to the conveut, to yerif
y
or refu
.
te th
.
Is one
for myself; es1ccially as it was D LC mDaclC,
which I was by 1U !U1b clled upon to beheve. I con
tented mysel, therefore, with taking the legend upon
trust ; and continuccl my progress.
The ruins of winter, the winds of summer, and he
work of timO, have hea1)ed the dust upon \DO road wlnch
we OIO pursuing, and which has, probably, not been re
paiJed since thO days of Constantine,
a
d have
o utterly
destroyed its distinctive CharaCter, that Iplac
.
es 1t seemd
more like the summit of some vast, half bun eel rampmt,
thHn practica1)le roadway ; but, neyertheless, \wo rnbas
were takng t1eir comsc along it,-one, gilded and pam ted,
232 LL^bIIL1L.
flled with rily-dressed and closely-veiled femnes, cur
ryg beautiful children upon their knees ; the other,
formed of coarse planks attached by a rough fame-work
of wood, and crowded with a troop of Ziyani, male and
female, brown as Indians, wild, and half-clad ; who roared
out some rude Boheman bHlad accompanied by the deep
tones and melodious clang of tambouri nes.
I have yet to underst.1nd hoY these clumsy vehicles-.
alike clumsy, despite te df erence of decoration-escaped
being hundred times precipitated, in fagments, to the
bttom. of the trencl1es on either side ; but the oxen were
sure-footed, ad the drivers never left hold of their hor.
A to myself, I quitted this rugged pathway of stones, and
walked my horse beneath the cypresses of the immense old
cemetery, which stretches fom the Seven Towers to the
foot of the hills of Eyoub.
I was riding slowly along U narow path, traced among
the gTaves, when I observed, resting beside a tomb, a
youg female, veiled with rather transparent yaclnuack,
and enwapped i a feredge of pale green. She held i
her hand bunch of roses, and the fxed gaze of her large
and luminous eyes, seemed to indicate that she was lost
in profound reverie. Did she bring these fowers as
tribute to the grave of some beloved one ; or was she
simply idling among these gloomy shades ? That is a
question whi ch I cannot answer; but, at the soud of tho
hoofs of my horse, she raised her head, and, trough the
tansparent muslin of her veil, displayed face of surpass
ing loveliness. Doubtless, my eyes expressed, fiankly,
the admiratien which her beauty excited ; for she ap
proached the yerge of the path wa, and, with move
ment full of timid grace, ofered me a rose, dawn from
her boucruet.
My companion, who followed, now overtook me ; and
M WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.
233
h d him a rose also with an instct of delicacy,
s e ouere ` ' '
h
which seemed designed to correct aught tlat mlght ave
been too fee, in her frst impulse .
.
.
I 1 ted her wit my best grace, J the onental
. sa u '
. . d h d
. two or three companions reJome er, an
manner ,
h
she disappeared beneath the shadow of the over angrg
cypresses.
b t
Thus terminated the only " conquest, I can oas
h Tk h f * ones .ut I have never forgotten
aong t e s al +
uent
.
h a couting of lime. They have presCrved the four
_ fuu cherubim of the galleries ; the 8X WJu_8 of each
shme through the scintillations of masse8 of gilded crystal .
b
t the hea
.
ds of these masses of gorgeous pluma_e ar
hidden behmd enormous _ol den suns ; the representation
of the human fce bei ug the especial horror of the Mos
l
cumg
thi s noble monument of antiqmty from rum ; whiCh he
efcted by under- pinning, portion by portion, wi th inde
fatigable caution and activity. Bands of
.
brass 1ere
thrown about the riven pillars ; supporters of uon propped
the sinking arches ; massive ground-works sust ained the
trembling walls ; the crevices 1vere flled up ; the crum
bling stones replaced by those of fresher and sb
.
onger
quality ; musses of masonry, whose purpose was shluly
di sguised under the garb of ornament, were made to bear
the enormous weight of the cupolH ; and, at l ength, thanks
to this elaborate and skilful restoration, Suint-Sophia
could still promise itself many centuries
.
of existence
:
Durint> the progress of the works, S1gnor Fossutl had
C
the curiosity to exhume many of tho \tC
DO8008
from the bed of lime in which they ere bur1ed ; and,
before covering them again, he caused them to be care
fully copied ; a proceeding, the fruits of whi ch, it i s to be
hoped, may be one day given to tlw world.
.
These mosaics are those of the cupola and th denu
donies. The others, which decorte the l ower walls, may
be regarded as destroyed. The mollahs reroyc, almost
280 LLbH1LiL.
daily, with their knives, cubes of crystal , covered with
gold leaf, and sell them to stangers. I mysel possess
some half-dozen of theset detached in my presence ; for,
although I am not one of those tourists who break of
.
the
noses of stues, as a souvenir of the monuments they have
visitd, I could not di sappoint the hope of a gatuit
y
which inspired the worthy Moslem who ofred me these
. memorials.
.
From the height of the tribunes (which are reached
by gentle winding slopes, as i n the Giralda or the Campa
nill a ), an admirable view of the mosque is obtained. At
this moment, some fithful belieyers, kneeling upon the
matting, are devoutly performing their
J
>rostrations ; two
or three fmales, wrapped
.
i n their feredges, stand near
one of the doors, and a porter, with his head supported
on the base of a pillar, is sl eepi ng with all his might. A
soft and tender li ght falls from the elevated windows ; and
I can see, iu the distant recess, opposite the pulpit, the
spaLkle of the gol den gratings of the tribune reserved for
the Sultan.
A species of })latform, supported by columns of finest
marble and oman:uted with curved railings, rises at each
point of intersection of the aisles. In the side-chapels
(useless in the Mussulman 1ituul ), nre heaped trunks,
boxes, and packages of al kinds ; for, i the East, the
mosques serve as store-houses, uud those who UL going
away on a journey, or who fear being roLbed at home,
deposi t their wealth under the immediate protection of
Allah ; and there has never been an instance of the loss of
a farthi ng under such circumstances, for theft would need
to combine itself with sacrilege. Heaps of dust accumulate
upon masses of gold, or of precious objects, scarcely
covered with \\Tappers of coarse cloth, or old leather ;
and the spi der, so cherished among the Turks, for having
b1^~bA.
281
thrown his web across the mouth of the cave in which the
Prophet was concealed, weaves his thread peaceflly about
the l oclu, which no OJe tkes the trouble to use.
Around the mosque are grouped hospitals, <'alleges,
baths, and kitchens for the poor ; for the whole of Moslem
life gathers around the house of God. People without
hore sleep beneath the arches, where no police disturb
them, for they are tl1e guests of AUah. The faithful pray
there ; the females go there to dream away their time ;
and the si ck are trancported thither, to be cured or to di e.
In the East, the present life is never separated from reli
gion anr the thought of the future.
. I sought in vai n, in Sai nt-S.ophia, for the imprint of
the bloody hand, which Mahomet II. , dashing, on horse
back, into the sanctuary, imprinted upon the wall, in sign
of taking possession as conqueror, while the women and
maidens were crowded round the altr as a last refuge fom
the besi eging army, and expecting rescue by U miracle,
which did not occur. This bloody imprint of the conqueror' s
hand-is it an historical fact, or only an idle legend ?
\Vhil c writing the word " legend,' ' I recall a remark
able one, ,vhich is current at Constantinople, and to which
the eyent of the day give a peculiar interest.
"Vhen the aates of Saint-Sophia gave 'vay, beneath the
C
pressure of the barbarian hordes who stormed the c1tJ of
Constantine, U priest was before the altar, performmg
mass. At the noise made upon the pavement of J usti
nian by the hoofs of the Tartar horses, the shout of :he
soldiers, and the terri fc cries of the lfoslems, the pnest
paused in his sacred ofce, took with
.
hi
the sa
?
rnmentnl
vases, and retired towards one of the s1de Isles, w1th a cal m
and deliberate step. The soldiers brandished their swords,
as if to slaughter the priest, when he suddely di sap
peared, throu_D 0 wall which opened to receiYe him ;
s
282 CONSTANTINOPLE.
means, as one would suppose, of a secret door ; but
no, the wall was frm, compact, impenetrable. The priest
had passed through a mass of solid masonr.
Sometimes are heard, even now ( it is sUid), fint notes
of psalmody, through the thickness of the wall. It i s the
saintly fther, still . living, who repeats, in hi s miracu10JS
sleep, portions of his interrupted liturgy. When Sai nt
Sophia shal l be again restored to Christian worship, the
wall will once more open of itself, and the priest, issuing
from his long retreat, will return, to fnish, at the altar,
the mass commenced four hundre years before.
If, according to invariabl e rule in thes legcndary pre
di ctions, 'e allow the addi tional " one year," which com
pl etes the mystic period (as does the " one day," in the
term of " a year and a day," so well known in all mdgicHl
tales) ; and assume that four hundred and one years com
plete the tale of the predicted time, the 29th of May, i n thi s
present year ( 1 854), wil be the day on wl1ich the sleeping
pri est should
a
ain cross the nave of Saint-Sophia, and
mount, with phantom-tread, the steps of the altar of Justi
nian, to consummate his mutilated rites. It is strange, at
least, that the event of thi epoch, should have Tendered U
Christi Un le-occupation of SUint-Sophia wi thin the pre
scribed period (at one moment), no very remote possi
bility ; but whether it is still to be accomplished, i s
another question, under the present aspects . 1
On issuing from Sai nt-Sophia, I visi ted several other
mosques.
Tltt of Sultan-Achmct, si tuated ner the Atmcidan,
is one of the most remarkable, It presents the pecu-
1 Porl11ps te opinion of the Anglo-French allied forces, might,
now, have some weight in furnishing reply to this qucstion.
'HANS.
1 MOSQUES. 283
liarit
y
of having six minaet, which has given it the
designation, i Turkish, of " Alti -Minare1i-D:uni ; " and
I menti on this, hecase it gave occasion, during the
erection of the edifice, to a ferce debate bet\ecn the
Sulta and the Iman of Mecca. The Iman declared that
the Sultn was Ubout to commit an act of sacrilege ; for
that no other mosque should presume to rhTal in splendour
the nost holy J{aba of Mecca, fanked by just that
number of minarets. The works were suspended, and
the mosque was in danger of . never being fnished, when
the Sultan, being U man of intelligence, discovered an in
genious subterfuge to close the mouth of the fanatical
Iman : he caused U seventh minaret to be added to the
Iaabn, and then proceeded to the completion of his own
maonifcent work, in accordance with its ori ginal design.
C
rati On
.
of seven or eight s tems, resembles a tower,
dilapidated In parts , enormous roots, like giant serpents
half hidden in the gro
e, wi th
,
I t
monstrous masses of foli age, over which
centuries have ghded li ke drops of rai n ; and which have
seen outspread beneath thei r shade, the tents of heroes sun('
by Tasso, in his " Jerusalem Del i vered.
c
But do not let us abandon , ourselyes to poetry. See,
here
be history, which comes, as usual, to contradict the
trad1tlon.
'rhe learned declare that Godfrey de Bouillon never en
camped beneath thi s tree, and they bring, for proof, a pas
sag
from Anna Commenus, a contemporary of the facts,
whwh certamly des Lroys the legend But
.
1 l . , never 1e ess,
Oou
_
nt R<Joul established his camp at Buyuk-Dcre, with other
Lat m Crusaders ; and the peopl e subsequently oave to the
tr