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Operation Management

Report -1
Program: MBA

Course: Operation Management


Selected Companys Operations,

Gul Ahmed Textile Mills

Faculty: Institute of Business & Technology


Submitted By: Muhammad Tauqeer Ahmad

Student ID:
Submission Date: November 22nd 2008

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

Table of Contents
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ------------------------------------ 03 COMPANY PROFILE ----------------------------------------- 05 SPINNING ------------------------------------------------------- 11 WEAVILNG------------------------------------------------------ 14 PRETREATMENT--------------------------------------------- 18 DYEING (Export) ----------------------------------------------- 20 DYEING (Local) ----------------------------------------------- 25 COLLAR KITCHEN ------------------------------------------- 27 DESIGN ENGRAVING -------------------------------------- 29 PRINTING -------------------------------------------------------- 32 FINISHING ------------------------------------------------------- 36 FINISH EXPORT FOLDING ------------------------------- 39 THE LABORATORY ----------------------------------------- 42 QUALITY ASSURANCE ------------------------------------ 45 WAREHOUSE ------------------------------------------------- 47 CONFECTION -------------------------------------------------- 49 SALES CONTRACT ----------------------------------------- 54 SAMPLING ------------------------------------------------------ 57 CUTTING LETTER -------------------------------------------- 58 PROCUREMENTS ------------------------------------------- 60 INTRODUCTION TO MERCHANDIZING -------------- 62 SUGGESTIONS ----------------------------------------------- 65

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Assuming of any role in a new organization is a source of great anxiety. An orientation program definitely helps eliminate this anxiety and removes a number of ambiguities. I felt myself extremely fortunate for having found the opportunity to go through a very comprehensive orientation program. Gul Ahmed Textile is a great organization involved in composite operations. Not only the operations are very large in terms of volume but also are highly technical. It is almost impossible to get insight of the entire organization in a limited time. However, the orientation program has been extremely useful in developing the basic knowledge about the organization and the functions of its units reasonably in good number (by the Grace of Allah Almighty). I am thankful to the Operation Manager Mr. Fazal-Ur-Rehman & General Manager Mr. Danish Adam jee, whose help and assistance enabled me to successfully complete this report. I am also very thankful to Mr. Hadi Fayyazi , Mr. Saeed Akhtar , Mr. Majid Khan and others to give me their precious time in completing my assignment, and passing their great experience. Again a humble vote of gratitude to all the respected employees, for designing such a pattern for us and guiding us on the right path.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

GUL AHMED TEXTILE MILLS

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

COMPANY PROFILE & HISTORY


Gul Ahmed was incorporated in 1953 as a private Limited company and became a Public Limited company in 1955.1t began as on unquoted Public company with 25000 spindles and 250 Looms. It was listed on the Karachi Stock exchange in 1970.
It has since grown steadily into a composite unit with the following installed capacity:

Spinning Units Weaving Units

Ring Frames Air Jets Sulzers Conventional

97,000 220 90 342 --------Total 652 Looms Bleaching Thermosol Flat Tables
Stenters Flocking

Preparation Dyeing Printing


Finishing Coating Unit

Singeing Pad Steam Rotary


Agers Back Coating

Mercerizing Hot Flue

Calendars Velours

Today it is one of the larger textile mills in the country having over 5000 employees. The company continuously strives to maintain its position as industry leader in sales growth and low cost production. This remarkable development has been possible through commitment to technology, and an honest approach to doing business.
At Gul Ahmed we believe in thinking beyond bottom lines, like contributing to every conceivable service, such as fulfilling customer expectations, employees housing to health, from parks to environment, from schools to charities, the nation and mankind at large.

The company exports made up household articles globally, and is its main business, and in the home market, sells dyed & printed lawn for ladies, and a variety of cambric & poplins for gents.

Gul Ahmed Textile Mills Limited


Gul Ahmed Textile Mills is a composite textile unit, with the following facilities.

Ring Spinning of Cotton & Poly Cotton yarn Weaving of Grey fabric Processing & Finishing of Cotton & Poly Cotton Fabrics Stitching of House Hold Textiles including Curtains.

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Operation Management

Location:
Company Address: HT/4B Landhi Industrial Area Karachi 75120 Pakistan
Telephone Fax Email 92-21-5082626-30 92-21-5082625 gulahmed@gulahemed.com

Operations 1. 4.
Spinning. 2. Weaving. 3. Design & Styling.
Pretreatment, Printing, Dyeing, Finishing. 5. Hemming of house hold textiles.

6. Quality Control.

Group of Companies
Following is the list of companies, which are part of the group. Gul Abmed Textile Mills Limited Swisstex Chemicals Gul Abmed Energy Limited

Business Activities
Textiles
In the textile field, activities start from spinning of raw cotton and man made fibers, and these are spun into yarns. These yarns are then woven into a variety of fabrics, which are processed and finished in all types of cotton and blended fabrics, bed linen and home textiles including curtains.

Apparel
Gul Ahmeds Apparel Division has established a tremendous presence in the International markets especially in United States and Europe, since its establishment in Year 2006. We supply to major clothing brands and large buying houses. Our sewing manufacturing facility has an in-house production capacity of 5.4 million units per annum and is 100 % export based.

We produce the highest quality garments and our entire organization and production processes are equipped and continuously updated to satisfy our buyers. Our reputation and commitment with our valued customers is our highest asset

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Operation Management

Power
The group is pioneers in the field of power generation. The textile mills are on self-generation with an installed capacity of more than 20 MW.

Management
Management of the group is professionally qualified and broadly experienced. The company's director has held top position in various textile bodies, exports committees and assisted the government of Pakistan in trade talks & negotiation with EC & USA authorities in framing textile policies.

Mission Statement:
To produce quality products through emphasis on consumer needs and to earn profits through total consumer satisfaction.

Vision Statement:
To be the textile leader of value added products in Pakistan and to achieve a turnover of 300 million US $ in the next 15 years.

Product:
Gul Ahmed's fine textile products represent a unique fusion of the century old traditions of the east and the latest textile technology of the west. The purest of cotton fibers, produced from the fertile lands of the Indus Valley, are spun, woven and processed into the finest quality cotton and blended products through a combination of latest technology, skills and craftsmanship of this traditional industry.

1)Bed-Linen
Quilt covers ,duvet covers, flat and fitted sheets, pillow covers, valance sheets, bolster case with all sorts of fancy confectioning, embroidery and embellishments, packed to buyers' specific requirement.

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Operation Management

2)Curtain
Ready made curtains lined, un-lined and taptop curtains, plain or fully accessorized with tiebacks, pelmets, cushion covers, in different styles of confectioning and embroidery, packed to buyers' specific requirement.

3)Fabric
Running meter fabrics, packed to specific requirement.

4)Yarn
Gul Ahmed specializes in medium-to-fine-count cotton yarns and is also capable of producing yarns using a wide variety of synthetic fibers including polyester, rayon and other man-made fibers

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Operation Management

5)Others
All APPAREL Articles , Boxer shorts, carpenter shorts, Mens , Boys , Womens Tee Shirts, Hooded, Trouser, Apparel Items, cycle shorts, table linen, kitchen linen, sofa cover, quilted articles including bed spreads, comforters, etc.

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Operation Management

10

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11

SPINNING
he Orientation Program started from the Spinning Department. Gul Ahmed has its own spinning facility located in Landhi Mill no 5. The contact person was Mr. Mehmood Director Technical Production. However the orientation was conducted in two sessions. The spinning facility at GTM 5 comprises of two significant divisions the Production facility and the Testing Lab.

Production Facility.
The production facility comprises of several departments. Mr. Ashraf provided a detailed description of each department and gave description of each and every work process. First the cotton bales are received at the warehouse. This cotton is purchased based on the sample selected and onwards approval from the lab. Cotton Bales are mostly purchased from Sind, Punjab, and in some cases even from abroad. The most frequently purchased cotton is MNH 93 produced in Punjab. Plucking. At this stage cotton bales are manually opened and are put in Pluckers. Pluckers are machines which mix the cotton and separate the bales into smaller denominations. The separated cotton is then transferred into the Blow Room. Blow Room The Blow Room is a facility, which is primarily used for the Cleaning, Mixing and Opening of cotton for yarn production. Cotton is processed through various stages in this area through different machines and the main objective is to refine the cotton being used in yarn production. A brief description of the machinery used is given below.
Auto Blender Primarily used for mixing cotton. This means that the cotton fibers are separated for the facilitation of the cleaning process. Waste at this stage is also removed. This machines is mainly used for trash removal. The cotton is passed through channel with air pressure. Trash is removed and deposited at the bottom of the machine while the cotton is passed on for further processing.

B-11

Multimixer

Again multimixer is another machine used for further mixing and opening of the raw cotton. As this is self explanatory this machine is used to remove trash and facilitates in the cleaning process. This is mainly used for beating cotton so that the fibers are further aligned. This is mainly used for the further waste removal and fine opening of cotton fiber. The tower has wires attached to its beater which further separates the

Heavy Particle Separator Tower Feed Free Roller Tower Feed Free Fine Opener Tower Feed Free

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Operation Management
Wire Opener Vision Shield fibers.

12

The vision shield is yet another equipment to purify the raw cotton. This device contains sensors which sense the foreign particles (Trash) i.e. polythene, leafs etc. and sucks them out of the raw cotton through air pressure. This is the final stage in the blow room in which even the tiny and micro dust particles are removed from the raw cotton. Once the cotton is passed through the D Duster it is transferred into the Carding department.

D Duster

The Carding Department. The main function of this department is to transform the cotton into Sliver. The main objective here is to maintain the uniformity, alignment and stretch ability of the fiber as per the desired standards. Once the Cotton is turned into Sliver it is filled in Cans. Cotton is passed through Drying Breaker to maintain the uniformity; the fiber is straightened. The sliver is then passed to Drying Finisher is for the same purposes however the only difference is that of the Auto Leveler. The Auto leveler is primarily used for controlling the variasion in uniformity (weight) of the sliver. The unit of measure for uniformity is Grain. Simplex. Simplex is the process of shaping the Sliver into Roving. The main processes involved are Grafting, Twisting and Winding the sliver and shaping it like a thin rope. There are currently six machines used for turning the Sliver into Roving. Each machine has a capacity of 120 spindles. Spindles are the equipment on which the Roving is collected. The unit of measure of roving is Hanks. Once the roving are collected it is passed on to the Ring Department for yarn production.

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Operation Management The Ring Department.

13

This is function where the yarn is finally produced. The Rovings are put on the machines used here and passing the roving through the machine produces yarns. The main objective of the machines here is again Grafting, Twisting and Winding. Once the cotton thread is produced it is collected in the from of Bobbin. The Auto Cone Department. The main equipment used in the auto cone department is a machine called Loepee. The function of this machine is to observe the yarn and remove the unwanted portion of the yarn. If a portion of the threat is identified as unwanted it is removed and the threat is then again joined to continue with the process. All sensed thread is collected on a Cone. The cone is of a Standard size. Once a cones are completed they are transferred to the packing department from where they are packed and stored.

Spinning Laboratory
The second important section of the spinning facility is the Test Laboratory which is mainly responsible for the inspection and testing of the cotton samples and monitoring the work processes and machinery in the production facility. Mr. Saleem provided a detailed description on the work processes of the Lab. The Yarn Section. The first section in the lab is the Yarn Department in which the production is monitored according to the set and desired standards. There are various machines and equipments used for this purpose which the performance and output of the production facility.
The Wrapping Drum: This is an equipment used to measure the count i.e. Grains of the Sliver being produced. 67 grains is the standard unit to measure the thickness. The sliver is rolled on the wrapping drum and six rounds of the wrapping drum are taken. Once six rounds are completed the sliver is cut and weighed. The grains of the sliver are then computed by the application of a formula. The strength machine is used to measure the strength of the yarn. 120 yards of yarn are required to measure the strength of yarn. 120 ya rds of yarn equals to one Lie. A 30count yarn has strength of 72 pounds. There are other standards to measure other counts as well. Auto sorter is device, which inspects the count of both the Yarn and the Hanks. This devise is used to run similar detailed tests, which inspects the Sliver and the Yarn. This device detects the technical fault in the machinery operational in the mill.

The Strength Machine:

Auto Sorter: UT4: Spectro Gram:

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14

WEAVING
(Procedure)
eaving is method or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so that they cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric. The warp yarns, or ends, run lengthwise in the fabric, and the filling threads (weft), or picks, run from side to side. Weaving can be done on a power or handloom or by several hand methods. At Gul Ahmed Textile Weaving is done on both Air Jet Looms and Sulzer Looms. There are separate facilities for weaving for both markets i.e. Local as well as Exports.

In case of Weaving for Exports the facility has been established in GTM 5 and for Local facility has been setup at GTM 4. The process is initiated from the Yarn Warehouse. Yarn is separated in the Yarn warehouse where the Yarn to be utilized in the Warp and the Weft are segregated.

WARP: WEFT:

Its the set of yarn in all woven fabrics, that runs lengthwise (veridical ) and parallel to the selvage and is interwoven with the weft. In a woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage (Horizontal) at right angles to the warp threads .Each Vertical thread is called a pick or Weft.

BEAMING (Warping):

The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in preparation for slashing, weaving, or warp knitting. Also called warping. Once the Warp ends are separated they are brought to a machine where these warps threads are aligned on the beam for the purpose of weaving. The size of the beam may vary and infact the width of the fabric is dependent of the width of the beam. Beam sizes and number of ends per beam. Currently at the Export Weaving facility the Warping Machines have a capacity of Warping 704, 800 and 1040 threads on once beam. Where is

SIZING:

A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed. Beams containing the Warp ends are then put on the sizing machine where the warp ends are passed through chemical compounds so that strength of the yarn is increased. Several Beams can be loaded on the Sizing machine at a time. Currently the sizing machines at the export facility have two capacities i.e of 24 and 28 beams. Depending upon the quality of weave required. New beams are created out of the beams loaded on the Sizing

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Operation Management 15 machine. Example if its a quality of 76 x 68 with a width of 100 then the number of warp ends required on one beam shall be 76 x 100 i.e. 7600. However the Warping machine can only Warp 1040 threads on a beam at a time. Thus to get 7600 threads 8 beams shall have to be made. All these 8 beams are then put on the sizing machine and then the Warps ends of all the eight beam are passed through the chemical at the same time and collected on one beams.

WASTE RECYCLING: Waste is recycled at both the Warping as well as the Sizing
stage. All waste which is acculate is then send to the rewinding.

DRAWING: Drawing is a very important and time consuming process in the weaving of the
fabric. It is infact a process in which the texture of the fabric is shaped. Setting the pattern of intersection of the Warp shapes the texture of the fabric and Weft ends. However the patterns is set up by the dropper, dropper rod and the frame which shall be important in shaping the texture of the cloth. Once the Drawing of the Beam is completed the beam is ready for being passed on to the loom shed.

LOOM: The Loom is the actual machine for weaving fabric by interlacing a series of vertical,
parallel threads (the warp) with a series of horizontal, parallel threads (the filling). The Yarn separates in the beginning for the Weft is directly brought to the loom shed. The warp yarns from a beam pass through the heddles and reed, and the filling is shot through the shed of warp threads by means of a shuttle or other device and is settled in place by the reed and lay. The woven fabric is then wound on a cloth beam. The primary distinction between different types of looms is the manner of filling insertion. Mainly there are two types of looms being used in Gul Ahmed i.e. the Air Jet Loom and the Sulzer Loom however Air Jet is only used for the purposes of Export Weaving.

KNOTTING: Knotting is a process in weaving when the beam is replaced by a fresh new
beam. This is done when an existing quality of the fabric is being produced on a loom and the Warp thread on the beams are about to be fully consumed the Machine is stopped and the existing beam is replaced by a new beam however the Warp ends are knotted together with the ends of the previous beam so that the production is continuous.

GETTING: When once particular quality is manufactured and is completed the complete set
of the beam, rod, and dropper etc is removed and a new set is loaded for a different quality. This process is called the Getting.

INSPECTION AND FOLDING: Once the fabric is weaved it is rolled in 150 to 200
meter length rolls. The fabric is then inspected and folded. The Main purposes of the inspection is to check the weaving defects that arise during the weaving process. The fabric once inspected is folded and passed on to the packing department for packing. Once packed the fabric is kept in the fabric godown.

The Unit of Measures.


The Count:
The Count is mainly the twist of the yarn. 1 pound of Yarn containing 840 yards of thread is equal to 1 single count. The a count of 80 is 80 x 840 yards of thread in one pound of yarn.

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The Construction.
The number of warp yarns (ends) and filling yarns (picks) per inch in a woven fabric, or the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. For example, a fabric construction of 68 x 52 indicates 68 ends per inch in the warp and 52 picks per inch in the Weft. The construction determines the quality of the fabric.

Weave.
The weave is the pattern in which the fabric is knitted. This determines the texture. For example the plain cotton 1/1 means that each thread of the weft shall jump on thread of the Warp and vice, versa. Common Weaves include 1/1 Plain, 1/3 Twill, 4/1 Sateen.

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17

WEAVING
( Flow Chart )
Yarn Warehouse

Warp Ends

Weft Ends

Recycling

Warping

Waste

Waste

Sizing
Inspection

Drawing

Sizing Knotting

Folding

Loom Shed
Packing Getting

Fabric Warehouse

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PRETREATMENT
retreatment is the first and the most significant stage in the fabric processing stage. This stages its self it divided into sub stages, which have their own importance. Pretreatment is mainly a preparation of the fabric for the Dying and the Printing process. This process includes mainly Singing & De-sizing, Bleaching and Mercerizing. These processes are important as pretreatment provides the foundation or the base for fabric printing and dying and thus plays a major role in the outlook of the end product.

Planning:
Planning is a major area of importance. The Planning department schedules the Grey cloth to the respective department. All the pretreatment sections are dependent of the schedule provided by the planning department.

Singing and De-sizing:


This is the first stage of the pretreatment process. There are two main activities performed during this stage. Singing is the process of removing the uneven fibers on the grey to even and smoothen the surface of the fabric. Singing is a physical phenomenon in which burners are used to burn the unwanted fibers on the grey. This removes the piling from the surface of the fabric. Once the fibers on the grey are removed the cloth is de-sized. De-sizing is the process of removing the chemicals applied on the cloth during weaving. Sizing is the process during weaving when chemicals are applied on the yarn to increase is strength so that when the yarn is weaved on the looms its durability is increased. In De-sizing all chemical applied during sizing are removed by passing the grey through a chemical tank. De-sizing is necessary for the softness and fineness in the cloth. Once the grey is passed through the chemical tank it is collected on rollers, which keep the grey rotating for 6-8 hrs for the chemicals, applied during de-sizing, to react.

Bleaching:
Once the grey have been singed and de-sized the next step is bleaching, bleaching is necessary to attain the required whiteness. First the grey is passed through channels where the cloth is washed and then the cloth is passed into streamers, from the steamers, the cloth is passed in to chemical tanks for a treatment called Scouring. This activity is done to remove the oil stains, fats, fatty acids, etc present on the surface of the cloth. Once the cloth is passed thought the chemical tank and dried, it is then forwarded for bleaching. Bleaching is done with the help of several bleaching agents, these agents include, H2O2, NAOH, Stabilizer, meeting agents, etc, these chemicals react to give the over all bleaching affect. Once the cloth is bleach it is passed on to steamers with a temperature of 101 Centigrades. The cloth is heated in this steamer for 20m minute and then is passed through various washing tanks, once the cloth is washed it is rolled over several hot rollers to dry the cloth and is then collected at the end.

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Bleaching Machines:
These are mainly two different types of pretreatment methodologies being used to prepare the cloth for processing. These are mainly the Goller Bleaching and the J-Box bleach these are mainly two different types of machine being used for the bleaching of the fabric. The main difference in these two machines it that the fabric in the Goller Machine is processed straight where as in the J-Box the fabric is processed in a rope form.

Goller Properties.
The fabric processing cycle is 12 hrs. Fabric to be used for printing should be always bleached on the Goller. Less Wrinkles Less Bow Warp and Weft remain allignet to a great extent a compared to the J-Box. Used for Heavy counts.

Mercerizing:
Mercerizing is done mainly for dying and for Re-Active printing, there are rare cases in which the cloth to be printed is also subjected to Mercerizing as well. This is a process that creates luster in the fabric, increases the absorption capability of the cloth and aligns the fibers of Warp and Weft. More over as it increases the absorption capability of the fabric it ultimately results in the reduction of the cost of the dying process. Its is basically a method for cotton yarn or fabric to increase its luster and affinity for dyes. The material is immersed under tension in a cold sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution in warp or skein form or in the piece, and is later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber and thus increases its luster.

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DYING (EXPORT)

he Dying process has been segregated into two broad divisions. Local Dying and Export Dying. Dying is a very technical process and involves various variables on which the dying route of the fabric is decided.

The are only two type of fabrics which can be dyed in the Gul Ahmed textile facility, 100% Cotton and Polyester Cotton which is also known as poly-cotton. Using different dying methods dyes both the types of fabric. Poly-Cotton can only be dyed by disperse dying. However cotton can be dyed using three different dyes that are: Re-active dyes, Pigment dyes and Watt dyes. The net fabric producing capacity of the dying department is 40,000 thousand meters of fabric per day.

Machinery.
There are mainly five machines being used in the dying department for export dying.

The Thermo sole Machine.


This machine is mainly used for Poly-Cotton as poly cotton can only be dyed on this machine. However this machine is also used for pigment and watt dying on cotton. Its a continuous dying machine and has a gross Capacity of dying 35000 meter of fabric per day. An advanced machine used specially of Disperse, Pigment and Watt dying, as these kinds of dying cannot be done on any other machine in the facility.

The Pad Steam Machine.

This machine is only used for 100% cotton, as Poly- Cotton cannot be dyed on this machine. Its yet another continuous dying machine and is used for large runs. Mainly used for reactive dying. This machine is also used for washing the fabric dyed on the thermo sole machine.

Pad Batch Machine.

This machine is a Semi Continues dying machine and processes cloth in batches, mainly used for smaller runs as in case of samples. Reactive dying is done on the pad batch machine. However usually medium to dark shades are run on the machine.

The Jigger Machine.

This machine is also a Semi Continues machine and processed cloth in batches, mainly used for smaller runs like samples. It is not currently being used for dying rather this machine is used for washing. However 100% cotton can be dyed on this machine.

The Washing Machine

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Operation Management 21 This machine is used for washing the dyed cloth. It is currently under erection, once erected it shall be able to share a lot of load form the Pad Steam Machine as mostly washing for all large runs is being done on the Pad Steam Machine.

Types of Weave.
Dying also depends on the type of weave. The types of weaves that can be dyed in the dying facility include, Plain weave, canvas, sartine, Jecard and Dobies.

Fastness Properties.
A very significant aspect of the dying process is the fastness properties of the dyes. When the customer places the order certain conditions are also included which are fulfilled during the dying process. Fastness process is mainly the resistance capability of the dye.

Washing Fastness.
This is mainly the ability of the dyed cloth to stain the white. Scale on which it is measured is (15).

Light Fastness.
Light Fastness is the ability of the dye resist fading in the sunlight. Mainly light fastness is important for fabric used in commodities like curtain, which are exposed to sunlight quiet often.

Rubbing Fastness. (Wet and Dry)


Rubbing fastness it the ability of the dye to resist friction. It is tested for both dry and wet rubbing. Important for commodities like bed linen. Rubbing fastness is also known as Crocking.

Chlorine Fastness.
Its the ability of the dye to resist the effects of Chlorine. Important for fabric used in area where chlorine is being used in Washing of the fabric.

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22

The Process for Dying Poly Cotton.


Poly Cotton is mainly dyed using two separate processes. One bath dying and Two baths dying. However the kind of dyes used for dying polyester are disperse dyes. Disperse dying is done at high temperatures. The temperature usually ranges between 130oC and 150oC. By heating the fabric at such a high temperature the fibers of polyester are swollen and the dyes are penetrated in the fibers. Once the dyes are penetrated in the fiber the temperature is brought back to normal, the fiber regains its normal state and thus the dye is trapped in the fibers. Disperse dyes are also of different types. Each type of disperse dyes has its own fastness properties. A suitable combination can therefore be derived according to the specs provided by the customer. Over all the combinations of disperse dyes cover almost all fastness properties.

One Bath Dying.


One bath dying is only used to dye both Polyester and Cotton at the same time. The dyes for polyester and cotton are applied at the same time. This process is cost effective however there are limitations to this method of dying. One Batch dying is only suitable for medium to light shades and if used for darker shades it might result in the color bleeding phenomena. The process is done through the thermo sole machine. Once the cloth is received in batches from the pretreatment department it is padded in the machine where both the dyes of polyester and cotton are applied at the same time. After padding the cloth is dried by passing through chamber with hot air. There are three chambers in the thermo sole machine. The drying process is completed in the second chamber; the fixation process is also initiated in this chamber. Fixation is a process of drying and heating the cloth to such an extent that the dyes applied during the padding phase are made permanent. Once the fabric is passed through all the chambers and completes is drying and fixation it is batched again and is moved to the washing range of the Pad Steam Machine for washing. After washing the fabric is passed on to finishing.

The Two-Batch Process.


This process is mainly used when the shades are either dark or when the shade of cotton and polyester threads in the cloth are of different shades. In the first step polyester is dyed using the thermo sole machine. The process path usually used is pad dry and cure. Once Polyester is dyed the second most important step is reduction clearing. Reduction Clearing is a process in which the polyester dyes are removed from the cotton ends of the fabric. During the disperse dying process the polyester is though dyed but at the same time the cotton ends are also stained by these dyes. Reduction clearing removes these dyes from the cotton ends. The fabric is sent of the Pad Steam Machine where the cloth is first dipped in a chemical trough, which contains the clearing chemicals; the cloth is then padded and passed on to a steaming chamber where the fabric is steamed. After steaming the cloth is washed in the washing tanks and dried at the end. Once the reduction clearing process in cotton fabric is dyed during the next stage. The Cotton threads are then dyed as per the given criteria by the customer. The dyed fabric is then washed and dried and passed on to the finishing department.

The Cotton Dying Process.


Cotton dying is a technical process and the dying route depends on various factors. There are mainly three types of cotton dyes. Reactive dyes, Pigment Dyes and Watt dyes. Each dye has its own fastness properties. More over each process has it own associate costs. The selection of the

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Operation Management 23 dying process depends on the customer requirements and the nature of business with the customer.

Reactive Dying.
Reactive Dyes can be used for light shades only on the Pad Steam Machine. Thermo sole machine can be used for both light and dark reactive dying, the pad batch machine can be used for Medium to Dark shades where as all shade can be dyed reactive on the Jigger Machine. Reactive Dying had high washing fastness. Good rubbing fastness, and posses an average light fastness. Various dying paths can be selected for reactive and each path has its own associated costs. However reactive dying over all is cheaper than Watt dies but is expensive than Pigment dyes.

Pigment Dying.
Pigment dying can only be done on the thermo sole machine and all kinds of shades can be dyed. Have high light fastness and good chlorine fastness, however the Washing and Rubbing fastness are poor. The main reason is because pigment dyes are only applied on the surface and do not penetrate the cotton fibers thus these dyes possess poor rubbing and washing fastness. Pigment dyes are the cheapest and most cost effective. Pigment dying is the only process in which the dyed fabric is not washed after dying.

Watt Dying.
Watt dying is rare currently in exports. This is the most expensive type of cotton dying. Watt dying is again a kind of dying only possible on the thermo sole machine. Used only for Light to Medium shades. Watt dying possesses good light fastness, high chlorine fastness, medium washing fastness, and medium rubbing fastness. However in case of Watt dying the watt dyes are developed or cured and then washed on the pad steam machine. It is a process in which the chemicals are applied on the surface of the fabric and the cloth is then steamed for the dyes to take the exact effect.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

24

The Dying Paths.


The dying paths for export are as under. Dying Type Reactive Path Pad Dry Cure Pad Dry Chemical Pad Stream Cold Pad Batch Dying Pad Steam Process Pad Dry Cure Pad Dry Cure Pad Dry Watt Development Machine Thermo sole Pad Steam Machine Pad Batch Pad Steam Thermo sole Thermo sole Thermo sole.

Pigment Disperse Watt

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M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

25

DYING (LOCAL)

he local dying process is yet another technical process. The significance of dying is high as the customer of the local market is informed and educated in terms of the technicality of the cloth.

Machinery.
There are mainly five machines being used in the dying department of local dying.

The Hot Flow.


This machine is used for cotton dying. The main processes involved are padding, drying and steaming. Usually used for Watt dying, however reactive dying can also be done on this machine. The cloth is padded after passing through the dye trough where the dye is applied to the cloth. The cloth is then passed into steam chamber where the cloth is steamed and dried. The cloth is then collected on the other end of the machine and it sent on the jigger.

The Jet Dying Machine.


The Jet Dying machine is the only machine being used for the dying of polyester cotton. This machine is therefore used for disperse dying as disperse dying is only done in case of polyester cotton. The cloth is heated at 1300C. By heating the cloth at such a high temperature the cloth is swelled and so that the dyes can penetrate in the cloth. Once the dyes are penetrated in the cloth the temperature is normalized so that the dyes are trapped in the threads of the cloth. This dying method helps in achieving good, washing fastness, good light fastness, good rubbing fastness and good chlorine fastness.

The Continuous Dying Machine.

This machine is only used for 100% cotton, as Poly- Cotton cannot be dyed on this machine. Its yet another continuous dying machine similar to the pad steam machine used in export dying and is used for large runs. Mainly used for reactive dying. This machine is also used for washing the fabric dyed on the Hot Flow machine.

The Super Machine.


The super machine is mainly used for washing the cloth. It contains several washing tanks where cloth is passed and the left over dyes and chemicals are washed. Once passing through the washing tanks the cloth is rolled on large rollers for drying. The cloth it than batched at the end.

The Winch Machine.


This is yet another machine used for washing the dyed clothe. The cloth is washed in batches. It is exhaust type of machine where the cloth is passed though water troughs.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

26

The Dying Paths.


Another important element in the dying process is the dying path. Each type of dyes has a separate dying path. However a single type of dyestuff can have more that than one dying path. Disperse Dying: Path Exhaust. Pad Dry Thermo sole. Re Active Dyes: Pad Batch. Exhaust. Pad Steam. Watt Dyes: Pad Dry Jig Develop. Pad - Dry Pad Steam. Exhaust. Sulphur: Exhaust. Jigger. Hot Flow and Jigger. Hot Flow and CD Machine: Jigger. Jigger. Jigger. Continues Dying Machine. Machine Jet Machine. Jet Machine.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

27

COLOR KITCHEN

he main function of the color kitchen is matching colors and keeping an updated database. Secondly the dispensing of colors and paste preparation is also a prime responsibility of the Color Kitchen.

There are two main computerized programs (CPS and IPS) being used in the color kitchen for color matching and color disbursement.

CPS (Color Physics System)


This computerized program is mainly used for color matching. It not only gives the proportion of the dyes to be mixed to give the desired results but also maintains a database of the pervious records. If the reading of a color is not available with the system it has to be added to the database. For adding color records to the database the available range of colors i.e. the self shades ranges of different depths and values are created physically. Mixing the dyes with a paste does the creation of the colors. A fabric stick off is than printed with the color created and is then scanned by a device called Spectrophotometer. This device mainly scans the image and converts the shades into numeric values like LAB. The reflectance of the dye, the paste and the fabric are all recorded. Now to obtain the reflectance of the dye only a plain clothe of the same quality is printed with paste only and is scanned by the spectrophotometer. The system automatically subtracts the reflectance of the paste and the fabric from the reflectance obtained earlier. Thus the reflectance of the dye is obtained. The dyes are then classified into books. Books are the grouping of colors based on the fastness properties of the dyes. These include AZO fastness, Light Fastness, Dry Cleaning Fastness etc. Once all color shades have been categorized into books the system is ready to provide the recipe for any particular shade provided by the customer. When a sample is received from the customer the sample fabric is scanned by the system, here the system has two options either the user can choose a recipe him self i.e. the free dyes option, or the system can used the fixed triangle method in which the system itself proposes the recipe based on a combination of three shade. The maximum limit available with the system is of 3 dyes. The proposed recipe is then tested on a strike off of the fabric and is scanned again to match with the original image. If the reflection and the color is the same the system gives a go ahead where as if there is some deviations the system highlights the differences in the proportions and the reflection and suggests the corrective measures. The base unit of measure is 1 KG of paste; all dyes are measured in a proportion against 1 KG of paste. Once a recipe is approved by the system it is recorded in the database for future references. However the memory of the system is limited and thus all records cannot be kept on the system. The Color Kitchen department also maintains manual record for each design and design colors. A special code is allocated to each design and each design color, which is unique and shall not be issue to any other color or design if deleted. This helps in identifying the color or the design. The system also has the provision to copy the data of one quality of fabric to the other quality and suggest the changes in the recipe.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

28

IPS (Integrate Paste Preparation System)


The IPS mainly controls the dispensing of the Dyes in the Paste. It transmits information to a terminal from where the color is dispensed and the weight of the color dispensed is controlled. To ensure the accuracy of the color dispensed the dispensing of the colors is controlled through two valves. The Shower Valve and the Medium and Fine Valve. The weight of the empty bucket of color is to be provided to the IPS first to further ensure the accuracy of the weighing process. The dispensing parameters have been uploaded in IPS, i.e. the dispensing range for each flow of the valves has been fed in the system. Suppose if 1 kg of color is to be dispensed and a range of 800 grams or more for the Shower Valve 990 grams for the Medium Flow and 1000 g for the fine value is set then the IPS shall dispense color from the shower valve till 800 grams have been dispensed. The Shower valve shall than stop and the weight shall be checked, the medium valve shall start dispensing till a total of 990 grams of color have been dispensed. The valve shall stop the color shall be weighed again and then the last 10 grams shall be dispensed by the fine flow from the second valve. Since the CPS has a limited memory therefore all previous records cannot be maintained in the system. As discussed earlier manual record is maintained for this purpose. The IPS has the provision that if data is provided to this system manually as well the system can dispense dyes in the right proportion. However there are three separate types of information required by IPS if has to act upon manual upload. The Screen Group, the Color Way and the Dispensing Protocol. The screen group is nothing but the details of the screen size to be used. These details include the width, the repeat (circumference), the open area percentage, the screen mesh i.e. the number of holes per square inch. The Color Way is the recipe of the color in Grains per Kg. The Dispensing Protocol is a code given to the combination of color dispensed and the consumption of the paste. The Sequence Order Numbering System is maintained to Code each color used in a print or a design. A bucket code is issued for each color or shade. All such numbers are unique as explained earlier. There is a slight variation in the colors and shade in using different machines. Thus the CPS can also be used to keep record of color variations and appropriate color schemes for each machine.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

29

DESIGN ENGRAVING
esigning and Engraving are two very essential and fundamental processes before the printing process. Designing and Engraving are two separate functions, which are headed by one department. The impression to be printed is prepared in the designing department and then engraved on screens in the engraving department.

Designing.
The basic process of designing involves receiving the images, scanning the images, preparation for color separation, color defining, cleaning, and the actual separation of the image colors. Forms of Images. Images and Impressions are basically received in four different formats; these formats include art works, sample fabrics, separation (files) and picture images. Scanning. The impressions received are all converted into on screen image format and thus have to be scanned. The designing department has three different types of scanners. These scanners are used to scan the images. The scanners include the Color Drum Scanner that is a cylindrical scanner and can scan impressions, which are even one meter wide. Other scanners are flat scanners and are used to scan images of different sizes. Preparation for Separation Once the impression is scanned there several graphic software that are used to separate the colors of the images. These soft wares include Image PC, Adobe, Free Hand, Coral Draw, etc. The first step after scanning is to select the appropriate portion of the image that shall be repeated through out on the image. This portion of the image is called a Cut. In most designs there is one particular pattern, which is repeated. Selecting the proper cut size is very important. Once the cut is selected the cut is brought to the desired size. Printing is mainly done through screens. These screens are of different sizes depending upon the width of the fabric on which these screens are to be used. Adjusting the cut to the appropriate and desired size of the screen is vey important and this process is called Scaling. The sizes of the screens are as under.
Circumference 64 82 91.4 1280 1620 1850 2400 2800 cm cm cm mm mm mm mm mm

Width

Once the scaling is done the joints in the imaging i.e. between the cuts are removed by editing. The removal of the joints is important to give continuation to the image. As the cut is repeated several times on the screen.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management Color Defining.

30

The shades, levels, locations and the mixing effects of the colors had the most significance in designing. After removing the joints on the image the colors are defined. Colors are identified in term of location, the shades, the effect of colors getting mixed, and the over all effect of the colors. Cleaning. Finally before the color separation the image is refined. By refining it is meant that any unnecessary effects of the colors created during the defining phase are removed and the image is polished. Separation of the Colors. Once the colors have been identified and the image is refined the colors are separated. This means that the colors are first split into channels. Each color reflecting from the image shall have a separate channel. The image is broken down into all possible channels. A channel is mainly an impression of the image that reflects only one color. For example if the image is of a flower, which has, only three color, the red petals, the green stem and the yellow stigma then the image of this flower shall have three channels. One in red showing only the petals, the other showing only the green stem and the last showing the yellow stigma, in the same way all images are split up into the possible color channels. Once these channels are separated each channel is saved into a separate file. Once screen shall be made for one file and one color. All saved files are then sent to the engraving department for engraving.

Engraving.
Engraving is a process in which the designs developed in the design studios are engraved on metallic screens for printing. These screens are imported from Holland and are received in a flat form. The screens contain microscopic holes on it surface and the holes are equally spread throughout the surface of the screen. Rings are first affixed on both ends of the screen to give it a cylindrical shape. The screens are then put in chamber called Polymerizes where they are heated for 10 to 15 minutes at a temperature of 1800c to 2000c. By heating the screen at such a high temperature the round shape of the screen is obtained. These screens are then chemically treated. A chemical called SCR 102, and SCR 101, is completely quoted on the surface of the screen. The screens are then put in chambers called Climatizers. These chambers are basically drying chambers in which the screen is dried. The main purposes of coating and drying the screen are to close all microscopic holes on the surface of the screen. The screens are then brought to the engraving machines as they are now ready for engraving. At the same the design received in soft formatted is loaded on the machine. Machinery. These are two kinds of machines being used for engraving. The Mask Exposer and the Laser Engraving machine. The Mask Exposer. This machine contains a stand on which the screen is rotated. A computer operated panel moves along the stand on which the screen rotates. This panel has two important parts the head and the

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management 31 halogen light. Solid Wax is put in cube form in a chamber in the panel. The wax is melted and the is poured to the head of the machine. The wax is then sprinkled on the screen through the nozzle of the head. The pattern of sprinkling the wax is the same as the pattern in the file of the design. The Halogen light is affixed to the wax nozzle and passed though the area on the screen where the wax was not sprinkled. The chemical applied on the screen (SCR102 and SCR 101) is light sensitive and gets affixed once light passes through it. Thus when the light passes through the portion on which the wax was not applied the chemical is fixed ultimately closing the holes of the screen. In the way the complete file of the design is engraved on the screen. The screen is then put in water for almost 5 minutes. The water is slightly warm and thus by dipping in water the wax from the screen is removed. As the Wax gets removed from the screen the quoting of the chemical under the wax is also removed. The removal of the chemical from the surface where the wax was applied opens the microscopic holes on the surface. The screens are then placed in the curing chamber for curing for 2 hrs. In the same way a separate screen is prepared for each file of the design. This further fixes the chemical on the screen and then the screens are finally handed over to the warehouse. The Laser Engraving Machine. This machine is older then the mask exposer but is time saving. The process is also different. The main difference is that the screens are cured first and the chemical is first affixed on the surface. The screen is then rotated on the machine and the laser cuts thought the chemical to give the desired design. The machine is currently not operational but is more time saving then the mask exposer. The entire engraving department is kept in dim yellow light as the chemical SCR 101 and 102 are light sensitive. The screen for samples is also made in this department. All new designs are first tested and sample screen are first made for the sample production.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

32

PRINTING

rinting is yet another very significant department of the processing unit of Gul Ahmed. There are mainly 5 types of printing being done in the industry. These include:

Pigment. Reactive Printing. Resist. Discharge. Burn Out. However incase of Gul Ahmed Textiles there are only two types of printing being done i.e. Pigment and Reactive. Mainly the focus in Gul Ahmed is on the Pigment printing where as Reactive is done in rare cases.

Pigment Printing.
Pigment printing include the application of pigment dyes on the surface of the fabric. These dyes form a thin film on the surface of the fabric. The fixation of the dyes is then done through curing.

Reactive Printing.
Reactive dyes react with the fibers of the fabric, once applied to give the desired shades. The fabric is then dried and washed so the dyes are fixed and the unfixed dyes are removed.

Printing Machines.
There are mainly 5 machines being used for printing. These include: RD-4 RD-5 RD-W The Zimmer. The KDM Machine. (For Sample Printing.) Stork. (The Curing Machine.) Hand Tables 4 each 50 meter long.

Basically the functions and the mechanics of operating for all machines are more or less the same however the only difference is in terms of the number of screens that can be affixed on each machines and that determines the number of colors each machine can print at a time. Secondly the repeat size i.e. the circumference of the screen and the length of each screen also varies among the machines. The length of the screen reflects the width of the fabric that can be printed. However the capacity of each of the printing machines is given below.

RD 4
Maximum Number of Screens (Colors) Screen Lengths 8 1280mm 1620mm M.Tauqeer

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

Operation Management Repeat Sizes Printing System 1850mm 640mm 914mm Blade Method.

33

RD 5
Maximum Number of Screens (Colors) Screen Lengths 16 1280mm 1620mm 1850mm 2400mm 2800mm 640mm 914mm Both Blade and Numatic Air Flow.

Repeat Sizes. Printing System

RD W
Maximum Number of Screens (Colors) Screen Lengths 20 1850mm 2400mm 2800mm 640mm 940mm Both Blade & Numatic Air Flow.

Repeat Size

Printing System

The Zimmer.
Maximum Number of Screens (Colors) Screen Lengths 20 1620mm 1850mm 2400mm 2800mm 3200mm 640mm 820mm 914mm Numatic Air Flow System.

Repeat Size.

Printing System

The KDM Machine.


The KDM only has a capacity of two screen and has a rod system only used for sampling purposes.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

34

The Table Printing.


Long printing table for 50 meters length are being used for manual printing. This printing is mostly being done for local and for the printing of large centralised motives. The manual printing is being done as Flat Bed printing is not being done currently at Gul Ahmed.

The Curing Machine.


The Curing Machine is mainly being used for the fixation of dyes after printing. The machine currently being used is known as Stork. The Curing is done by passing the cloth through Hot Air. The temperature in the Heating chamber in very high and is maintained at 1700C. The maintenance of the temperature to the desired level is very important to give accurate results. All printing machine being used are Rotary Machines and have a similar mechanism of operating. However a detailed description of the operation and mechanics of RD 5 are explained.

Rotary RD 5
This machine has a maximum speed of 50 meters per minute. The fabric rolled on the batchers is put on the rollers and is passed through the Brushing Chamber. The Function of the Brushing Chamber is to brush the fluff from the surface of the fabric. The fabric is then passed into the Avoc System. Avoc system is a mechanism by which vaccum is created in a chamber and when the fabric is passed through that chamber the fluff remaining on the surface is sucked out of the fabric by pressure created through the vaccum. After passing through the Avoc system the fabric is then rolled over the Lobocine Device. The Lobocine Device is a roll which rotates in the opposites direction of the fabric when it is rolled over the roll. A chemical called Lobocine is applied on the surface of the roll. This chemical is of a sticky nature and when the fabric comes in contact with the chemical the left over dust particles are removed from the surface of the fabric. This entire process of cleaning the surface of the fabric is being done to get uniformity and to avoid design deviation and miss prints during the printing process. The fabric is then rolled over a blanket. The fabric here is fixed on the blanket. The fixation is done by application of a glue on the surface of the blanket. The glue is applied on the surface of the fabric by a glue trawlee, which contain rollers, which pad the glue on the blanket. The fixation of the fabric on the blanket is necessary to maintain the fabric in the right position so that the printing is done smoothly. There are 16 screen units on the blanket on which the screen can be fixed. The screen contains a device fixed in the centre called the Squgee. The squgee is contains a Metallic Rod which is fixed by holders on the ends of the squgee. There are Control Sensors near the Squgee which control the inflow of the Color. Color is inflowed from color drums placed on the side of the machine. Once the screen rotates color is pour from small hole in the squgee. At the same time Magnetic Beams fixed under the blanket pull the rod down on the surface of the fabric and the the rod squeezes the color poured from the squgee out on the fabic through the meshes of the screen. The Sharpness of the colours is controlled by the magnetic pressure, which is maintained by regulator knobs. The more magnetic force the more the spread of the color on the fabric and the less the sharpness. The less the magnetic force the less the spread of the color on the fabric and the more the sharpness. Each screen applies different colours on the fabric till the fabric is passed under all the screen and is completely printed.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management 35 The fabric is then passed into the drying section of the machine through a conver belt. The fabric is dried in the drying section where oil steam is used for drying. The fabric is given 3 turns in each drying section. There are a total of 6 drying section in this machine through which the fabric is passed and then is folder at the other end of the machine. The blade system can also be used instead of the rod however the rod system gives better results and is always recommended specially in case of export sales since as pressure in the blade system is manually controlled. The fabric after folding is sent on the curing machine for fixation.

Sample Printing.
Printing is also being done for sampling. However the requirement are that of the Color, Quality, Width, Length, and the type of finish required. The Inquiry is received by two different channels. Sample requests are raised on the SRF and are initiated by the marketing as well as are also raised by the foreign designers who work with Gul Ahmed and the companys customers. Such is mostly that case with France and UK. Once all information is received the fabric is printed on the KDM machine and is matched with the standard, if the fabric comes up to the standards it is then sent for curing, and then is washed and finished. Fabric once finished is folded and is sent to sampling and then is on wards sent to the respective party.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

36

FINISHING
he Finishing of the fabric plays a major role in the final out look. It has great significance in giving the final touches to the fabric. It is just like polishing furniture once it has been made ready. Finishing has its own importance and technicality as several conditions provided by the customer can only be fulfilled when the fabric is processed in finishing. Moreover the finishing department in Gul Ahmed Textiles is also responsible for the equalizing of the fabric a stage where the fabric is aligned, this is necessary especially in cases of motive printings.

Fabric Properties Controlled in Finishing and Equalizing.


Shrinkage Percentage. Skey, Cross and Bow. Pilling. Wrinkle Freeness. Construction. Hand Feel. Shine and Smoothness. Other Fastness Properties of the Fabric.

The Machinery.
Currently there are 6 Stenters, 4 Calendars and 1 Sanfornizer, these equipments are used during the process of finishing. However each machine has its own specific functions for processing.

The Stenters.
The stenters perform a number of different functions. However the main purposes of the stenters is Stretching, Straitening, Heat Setting and Finishing of the fabric. This machine is used both before and after the printing process however in most cases of dying the stenter is used only after the dying process is completed. The fabric looses its actual width during the processing specially when the fabric is passed through the pretreatment phase. As the fabric is passed through water it shrinks and looses its width. To increase the width of the fabric to the desired level the fabric is stretched on the stenters. The stenters contain troughs, which contain chemicals; the fiber is dipped in the trough and padded. Once the fabric is padded chains on each side of the fabric hold the fabric and stretch it to the desired width. These chains then pass the fabric through the heating chamber. The heating chambers may vary in number depending upon the brand of the stenter. However the speed of the stenter is directly related to the number of heating chambers attached in he stenter. The more the heating chamber the more quickly the cloth is dried and can be batched. Fabric is heated at a very high temperature in the heating chambers. The heat is generated through gas burners and is evenly spread by fans within the heating chambers. Once the cloth is passed through the heating chambers the chemicals are fixed on the cloth and it is collected on the other end.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management 37 The Stenters are used for the Equalizing of the fabric as well. Equalizing is very important specially in case of printing. Equalizing is done to align the Weft of the fabric. During various stages in the pretreatment the fabric is exposed to water, chemicals, heat and pressure. This distorts the alighment of the Weft ends of the fabric. A resultant problem is Bow and Skewness of the Weft ends. Such problems in not rectified result in design deviation during printing. Stenters are used to align Weft ends so that the printed design is correctly aligned when imprisoned on the fabric. Types of Stenters Being Used. Stenters are also used to give the finishing properties to the fabric depending upon the desired customer spec such as hand feel, in terms of softness and hardness, wrinkle freeness, and other fastness properties of the fabric. There are currently six types of Stenters being used in Gul Ahmed. The details are as under. Mon Force: Tung Yung: Bab Cock: Krant 3: Krant 1: Krant 4: Width 3.2 Meters containing 10 heating chambers. Width 2.8 Meters containing 10 heating chambers. Width 3.2 Meters containing 6 heating chambers. Width 2.8 Meters containing 5 heating chambers. Width 1.85 Meters containing 7 heating chambers. Width 1.6 Meters containing 7 heating chambers.

The Average fabric processing capacity of a stenter with 10 heating chamber is 70,000 meter per day where as for a stenter with 6 chamber its 55 to 60 thousand meters per day.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

38

The Calendars.
The Calendars are equipments, which mainly involve a complete physical process. The main objective of the calendar is to achieve the desired smoothness and shine as per the customers specifications. The cloth is rolled and pressed on cotton and steel rollers. By pressing and rolling on the steel rollers the desired shine is created. Whereas by rolling on the cotton rollers the desired smoothness is achieved. However the construction of each calendar is different as mainly there are 4 calendars being used in the finishing department.

The Sanforizer.
The Sanforizer is a device used for the compaction of the fabric. Infact this device is used to control the shrinkage of the fabric. Currently the device being used at the Gul Ahmed has a working width of 1.6 meter and is thus only being used for the local fabric. For the export fabric the compaction is being done by chemical application and heating through the stenters. The control of the shrinkage is very important as it is an essential element in the spec provided by the customer. Finishing has great significance in the over all processing of the fabric as it give the final out look to the fabric which is essential in its presentation.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

39

FINISH EXPORT FOLDING

he Finish Export Folding department is mainly responsible for the inspection of the finished fabric. The objective of this department is to highlight the defects in the fabric and bring it in the notice of TCM and Marketing so that a course of action is decided.

The Fabric is processed in lots. A complete record is maintained for each lot starting from Grey till the final finishing. This record is maintained in a file called The Pink File. The Lab is mainly responsible for maintaining this information on Job Cards, which are filled in the Pink File. This record includes information about all processes executed on the lot. Moreover a lot is also subjected to various tests during its processing stage. There is a complete record available on the job cards for the tests conducted by the Lab department. Once the fabric is finished and clears all necessary tests the lab approves the Pink File and sends it to the Folding department. The lot is kept in batches and the batcher numbers and lot number is provided to the Folding. The location of the batchers is also communicated to the folding. Upon receiving of any file the folding first inspects and checks the file for any incompletion or revisions so that the clarification is obtained. If the File is satisfactory a supervisor is assigned to collect the lot from processing and bring it to the Folding department.

Machinery.
There are mainly three types of machinery being used in the Folding department.

The Inspection Folding Machine.


This machine is used the most in the folding department as its facilitates the prime function of the department i.e. inspection of the finished fabric. There are a total of 12 machines. The fabric is rolled over these machines and is inspected by the staff on duty.

The Black on Board Machine.


This machine is the only of its kind in the department. It is used to pack the fabric for export. Unstitched fabric is also exported from Gul Ahmed. The Black on Board Machine is used to fold the inspected fabric using boards. This fabric is not further processed and is directly exported.

Platting Machine.
This machine is only a folding machine. It is used in case the fabric is required in a folded form.

The Inspection Process.


Once the batchers reach the folding department they are put on the Rolling Inspection Machines. Contractual staff inspects the fabric and the defects are highlighted. All lots are 100% checked. These defects comprise of any defect not only in processing but also even in weaving.

Categories of Defects.
Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)
M.Tauqeer

Operation Management There are mainly 6 categories of defects. Fresh Minor Medium Major C Grade Cut Piece

40

The first two categories Fresh and Minor are acceptable and can be forwarded to the warehouse for the onward delivery to the respective stitching unit. Where as the third category i.e. Medium is held. Fabric with medium defects is shown to the TCM representative and a decision is obtained by the TCM and Marketing. If it is evaluated that the medium defected cloth can be used in stitching then Folding is given a go-ahead whereas if its not in a condition to be used it is held. The last three categories Major, C-Grade and Cut-Piece are held and are sent to the warehouse of dead stock. While inspection the fabric is divided into rolls with a length of 200 to 250 meters. Separate packing slips are made for each roll. These slips are prepared by the contractual staff on the rolling machine and then are formalized by clerk in the folding department. These packing slips contain information about the roll number, the width of the fabric, the pieces of fabric in each roll, the length of each roll, quality etc. These rolls are prepared defect wise. Once a roll is completed there are four copies of the packing slip made. Once is retained by the clerk, one is kept in side the roll, one on the roll and one is retained by the department its self. The folding department has a computerize program which is used to generate a comprehensive report of the complete lot. The information on the packing slip is fed in the system; once all slips have been fed a complete summary report can be generated. This report gives a detailed information about the lot including the lot no, the contract no, the customer order no, order quantity, received quantity, grey width, quality, count, etc etc. However the most important aspect of this report is that the report gives a complete over view and position of the lot. The report shows the defects of the lots in meters. The meters of fresh fabric, the no of meter defected minor, the number of meters defected major etc. The movement of the lot to stitching is decided on basis of this report. The stock is then passed on to the warehouse. At the same time the system is updated with the delivery of lots to the warehouse. TCM then decides the movement of goods.

Some Frequently Occurring Defects.


1. White Spot. 2. Out Print. 3. Salvage Defect. 4. Weaving Patta. 5. Color Stain 6. Oil Stain 7. Dust Stain 8. Miss Print 9. Color Miss 10. Hole 11. Patta

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M.Tauqeer

Operation Management 12. Color Patta. 13. Smudging 14. Design Deviation 15. White Patta 16. Light Dark 17. Slub 18. Jala 19. Kneps 20. Different Quality 21. Bowing 22. Whitness 23. Calander Mark 24. Kanji 25. Knots 26. Contamination 27. Gold Stain 28. Short Piece 29. Joint Mark 30. Vibration 31. C Grade 32. Cut Pieces. Etc.

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Operation Management

42

THE LABORATORY

he laboratory is mainly divided into three sections. These sections include:

FTS: Fabric Testing Section RMT: Raw Material Testing. Machinery and Equipment.
Below is the list of machinery and equipment used in the APS department. The Xenon Light Fastness Tester: This device is being used to test the light fastness of the fabric. Various shades of the fabric are put in chamber and are exposed to lamps for several hours. The shades are then taken out and the light fastness is then measured. Auto Lab Dispenser: This device is used for color dispensing. Specto Photo Meter. The sepecto photo meter is used to give the recipe of the color. Zimmer Printing Machine. Used for Printing. Padder: This device is used for applying the color on the fabric. Dryer: As the name says is used for drying. Thermosole: The thermosole is used for the curing or fixation of the dyes. Steamer: Also used for fixation but the heat is generated through steam. Ex haust Dying Machine: Used for Exhaust dying. Coating Machine: Used for various coatings on the fabric.

FTS: Fabric Testing Section.


The Fabric Testing Section is responsible for the testing of fabric at each level. This mainly is done to ensure the conformance of the customer standards and specs. The testing is mainly done at two different stages: The In Process Testing Quality Control and Finish Process Quality Control.

The In Process Testing Quality Control.


Testing in the FTS is done when the fabric is under processing. Testing is done after each process to ensure that the standards and the objectives of each process are being met. Further the aim of this testing is to highlight any problems that might come during each stage and may effect the fabric. The testing includes the testing of grey, after pretreatment, after equalizing, after dying, and after curing and fixation. These are several parameters on which this testing is done. These parameters may vary depending upon the process. A list of testing parameters for each stage is mentioned below. Testing of Grey.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer (BEM/896)

Operation Management The following parameters are tested of the Grey Fabric. Construction. Count. Size Percentage. Width Blend Proportion.

43

Testing after the pretreatment of the fabric. The following parameters are tested after pretreatment. PH. Absorbancy. Whiteness. Width. Width Drop Percentage. Piling.

Testing After Equalizing. Below are the parameters tested after equalizing. Whiteness. Skew Percentage Bow Percentage. Width Etc.

Testing After Dying. Below are the parameters tested after dying. Washing Fastness. PH Testing after Curing. Brushing Fastness. Rubbing Fastness. Washing Fastness.

Finish Process Quality Control.


Once the fabric is finished a number of tests are conducted to check the conformance of the fabric with the required standards. However a brief list of parameters tested at this stage as well is given below.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management Shrinkage Piling WT/S Tear Tensile Flameability Whiteness Washing Fastness Rubbing Fastness Brushing Fastness Light Fastness. Ph Finish Construction. Finish Count. Blend Ratio. Appearance Retention.

44

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

45

QUALITY ASSURANCE
he main objective of quality assurance is to ensure that the standards of quality are being met and are in accordance with the corporate standards of Gul Ahmed Textile Mills Ltd. This is the reason why other than independent control of each and every department involved in the complete cycle, a centralized control has been established.

Grey Inspection.
The process is the same as in case of Grey Inspection done by the Grey Fabric Inspection department. However the inspection done by the quality control department acts as a counter check as much of the work force in the Grey Inspection Department is on Contractual Basis and scrutiny of their work is very important. Each and every lot is 7% inspected on the same inspection criteria as followed by the Grey Inspection Department. All defects including Major defect, Weaving, mending and washing defect are note and are evaluated under the tolarence standards, if the defects are with in tolerance the lot is accepted else rejected.

Bleaching.
Each lot is randomly checked for both the J Box and Goller Bleaching. Once person at a time is responsible for checking the online defects for both the machines. The fabric is inspected during the process and faults and defects if any are immediately highlighted. This infact help a great deal in the production process as the probability of stopping an error when it just occurred increases. If the defect witnessed cannot be traced are sent to the lab for analysis and finding the causes.

Equalizing and Finishing.


These are mainly two separate processes conducted by once department. The QC department has two individuals for 6 machines, each responsible for 3 machines each. Any defects are highlighted during the online testing. If any defect is highlighted the machine supervisor is informed and it asked to rectify the defect. Online testing of the fabric is constantly done. Various reports are prepared to analyze the conformance of the output with the standards. During equalizing the main emphasis is on the skew and bow and the whiteness.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

46

Calendar.
The calendaring is also a process in finishing. The QC is mainly responsible for the supervision of the machine operators. The area of emphasis at this stage is the temperature of the machine, the machine pressure and the machine speed. Online testing is done and the problem in both the fabric as well as the machine is highlighted. In case of problems with the machine or any non-conformance the maintenance contractors are contacted to fix the problem.

Printing.
The processes followed in case of printing is the same as done in other cases there are representative from the QC department who are responsible for the supervision of the each machine operator and the performance of each machine. In cases that the there is any problem in the function of the machine or any deviation from the results that the supervisor of the machine is immediately informed and asked to rectify the problem with the machine. Mainly the printing machines include the range of rotary machines but the curing machine has also significant and the quality is also ensured during curing as well. Reports are prepared and maintain so that the performance of each machine can be monitored and a record is maintained.

Dying.
The same is the case with the dying process. All processes and methods are equally monitored by the quality assurance department and any deviations are highlighted at the same time. The main objective is to ensure that the quality is maintained at all times and the customers specs are met to ensure the customer satisfaction and thus in effect maintaining customer loyalty.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

47

WAREHOUSE
ll issues of the folding are update in the system as Warehouse receipts. The Warehouse is mainly responsible for the dispatches of the fabric to stitching units and for export in case of fabric, which is directly to be exported. Both the type of dispatched have separate packing requirement and different loading system.

Fabric for Stitching Units.


The dispatch of fabric to stitching units is controlled by the TCM. The TCM issues a memo on a daily basis and also as and when required instructing the warehouse for dispatch. The TCM has a complete plan of dispatch; this plan is prepared by the input of Marketing as well as the Planning department for available capacity at the stitching units. Once the lot is completely received the folding report is obtained and the lot is checked for rolls to be held. All clear rolls are then ready for the dispatch to the stitching unit. The lot along with all documents is then dispatched as per plan. A gate pass is prepared and signed by the warehouse in charge. The documents include the Gate Pass, Folding Report, and Packing slip of each roll. The transportation in this case is arranged by the warehouse its self.

Export Fabric.
In case of export there is great significance of documentation. The shipping department prepares the documents. The TCM is in liaison with the Warehouse and the Shipping department of the dispatch. However the warehouse is not provided a memo by the TCM rather the TCM gives a verbal intimation to the Warehouse about the status of the dispatch. Once the export documents are ready they are provided to the Warehouse by the shipping department. These document include the Invoice the Packing List, the necessary shipping marks to me marked on the consignment. Based on these document the marking is done by the Warehouse. The shipping department in this case arranges the transport. Once the container arrives it is loaded the gate pass is prepared and approved and the stock leaves the company premises.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

48

Goods Movement and Stacking.


Goods Movement is recorded on a daily basis, all issued are recorded and updated daily. The stock is stacked contract wise however there is capacity constraint in the warehouse as the capacity of the warehouse is twelve-lac meter however in peak seasons the stacking reaches even 20 lacs. More over if sufficient capacity is available at the warehouse the stacking can be much organized and less time consuming. In case of local fabric there is no concept of folding or lot number and the fabric is packs screen name wise. The dispatch of local fabric is only made to the West Wharf Warehouse.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

49

CONFECTION
ul Ahmed Textile Mills have a very well established Confection Portfolio ranges from Stitching to Quilting, Embroidery and Specialized Kids Articles. The Articles manufactured at these facilities include, beddings, curtains, Quilts, kitchen textiles etc. These are two stitching units, which are ISO Certified as well. These Stitching units include GST, H7, H7-2, H7-3, H7-4, H7-5, LSU1, M Field, and the F.B. Area Stitching unit.

The Stitching Process:


The Stitching process is initiated when the fabric is finished and a cutting letter is forwarded by the Marketing to the respective stitching units. At the same time the TCM dispatched the Fabric to the respective Stitching unit from the Fabric Warehouse. The Fabric is lay for cutting. Currently the laying is done both manual as well as the automated process. H7, H7-2 and LSU1 currently have an Automated laying system. The laying is usually done for 250 folds at a time. Once the Laying is done the required markings are made on the fabric and a Bed Knife is then used for cutting. This knife had a 10 Blade that cuts through the cloth very easily. Once the fabric cutting is done the cut pieces are put on a trawlee. These pieces are put on the trawlee after size wise segregation. The trawlees are then passed on to the stitching machines where the articles are stitched. Once the articles are stitched they are inspected thoroughly for any defects. This inspection is infact the final inspection and includes the inspection for all types of defects including, weaving, processing and off course stitching defects. All articles, which are defected, are held. Articles, which have minor defects, are touched and restitched so that the wastage is minimized. Once the inspection is complete the fabric is sent for the packing. All packing requirement are fulfilled in the packing department in which the Articles are packed with using Inlay cards, Photo Cards, etc. Once the Articles are packed they are put in cartons and the Cartons are labeled with the Shipping Markets, Weight etc. Once the stock is packed in cartons it is ready for shipment.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

50

Types of Stitching Machines.


The Stitching machines currenlty being used in the stitching facility includes: Single Needle Machine. Double Needle Machine. Board On Machine. Flat Lock Machine.

All these machines have different stitching patterns. The pattern of stitching may vary from plain stitch to making holes in the fabric while stitching. The pattern of stitching and the parameters are all defined in the cutting letter and are done in accordance with the customer specifications. Each machine operator is required to stick a label on the article. This label is nothing but a number given to the operator so that in case of any defect the person responsible can be pointed out. At the same time washing labels are also stitching on the Articles at the same time.

Beddings.
Beddings are currently being stitched at H7, H7-2, H7-3, H7-4, LSU-1, M Field and at F.B. Area. The procedure is pretty much standard as explained above. However LSU1 is ISO Certified and thus the standards being implemented at the stitching units are exemplary. Beddings are Articles, which are most extensively produced and have the largest share in over all Gul Ahmed Sales.

Curtains.
Curtains are currently being stitched at H7-5, M Field and GST, At H7-5 a completely automated machine have been erected which facilitates the stitching process to a great extent. Its infact an automated trawlee with Forty stations on which the fabric can be stopped and stitched. Its called the Smart MRT (Material Rapid Transport). The fabric is loaded on the hangers and the sequence is fed in the system. Once the sequence is fed in the system the machine automatically take the fabric to the desired station where it is stitched. The Machine maintains a complete count of the number of pieces manufactured at each station and thus facilitates the daily wage calculation of the Employee. Secondly is a much effective and time saving method as compared to the manual trawlee system. The sequence includes three stages i.e. Blind, Tape and Batique. These are mainly three stages in the stitching of curtains. Blind is the process of hemming the sides and bottom of the curtain depending upon the customer specification, where as tape is the stage when the hanging tape is stitched on the top of the curtain. The last stage Batique is basically a stage in which the open corners of the curtains are stitched to improve the outlook of the curtain. Once these three stages are completed the curtain is forwarded to the inspection department. This department is mainly responsible for the checking the defects of the finished article. This inspection includes the checking of the following.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management The Stitching. Washing Label. Tape. Print. Pair Matching. Fold.

51

All articles, which do not meet the quality standards or are not up to the standards provided by the customer are rejected and held. At the same time accerrories for Curtain are also stitched at in separate section including tie bags etc. These also depend on the requirements given by the customer. Once the inspection is done the Curtains are packed. Packing includes the Photo Cards, Inlay Cards, Bar Codes, Size stickers and safety. Once the Curtains are packed they are put in Cartons and Shipping Marks are put on the cartons for onward shipment.

Embroidery.
The Embroidery unit has been setup at the H7-5 Facility. There are two types of Machines being used. The Barudan and the Tajima.

Barudan.
The are currently 10 Barudan Machines being used for Embroidery. Each Machine has 20 circular heads with 9 Color thread capacity each. The Head to head distance is 30 cm called the repeat size. The total Width of the machine is 100 cm. Embroidery is done in two ways i.e. the Continuous Sheet Work in which there is a continuous pattern of embroidery over the fabric and the other is Frame Work for Motive Embroidery. The size of the motive is dependent on the size of the Frames. Barudan Frames are of the following sizes. 25 x 46 cm The machine is completely automated. The Design for the embroidery is developed in the Product Development department. Once the Design is developed and is approved by the customer it is sent in soft format to the Embroidery where it is upload and the Embroidery is done accordingly.

Tajima.
Four Tajima Machine have been installed in H7-5. These are flat head machine. There are 20 heads with a capacity of 9 colours each. The repeat size is 33 cm and the width is 100 cm. Both the Continuous Work Sheet as well as the Frame Work can be done on this machine. The Frame sizes are: 25 x 96 cm

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management 35 x 45 cm

52

The Embroidery is done according to designs uploaded. However in addition to this the Tajima also has the provision of Aplique Embroidery, Coding, Boring and Sequence. Aplique Embroidery is fixation of fabric pieces cut in particular shapes over the article and embroidery being done to fix the fabric on the article. More Coding can also be done on Tajima machine as explained earlier. Coding is a process of fixing a thin stylish rope on the fabric in a particular design where as boring is making holes in the fabric. Sequence is also a process of fixing glittering shapes in a particular design on the fabric.

Quilting.
There is established quilting facility at Gul Ahmed Textiles as well. This facility has four quilting machines. 2 are single needle machines where as the other two are completely automated multi-needle machines. Design is built-in in the machine and the stitching is done in accordance to the design. The Quilts are filled with a material called polyfill which is locally procured. Fabric is layed over the polyfill and is then stitched over the machines. Once the stitching is done and the polyfill and the fabric are fixed together the quilts are forwarded for the stitching of the corners. The quilts are then checked and shipped accordingly same as other finished articles.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

53

TASKS AND ASSINGMENTS PERFORMED

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

54

SALES CONTRACT
I was given tasks at several instances to make sale contracts for the orders received from the customers.Some of the customers were Dorma, Next, Montgomery, Gus, Vantona etc.

Sales Contract System:


Gul Ahmed one of the leading textile mills of Pakistan for the ease of its workers has bought a computerized sales contract from a computer software manufacturer named as SysMan Solutions. The main purpose of the software is to report the sale of Gul Ahmed products to its customers in a proper and standard format. A standard format was initially designed and put in the systems, employees now only have to feed the information regarding the sale contract in the system and the result is an efficient and good looking sale contract. The system has the flexibility for every type of product made by Gul Ahmed. The system also provides the flexibility for different specifications of products as required by customers e.g., color, length, width, designs, etc. Apart from that various standards have been set within the software and can be used as needed. The system allows the ease of operations by allowing the simple concepts of cut, copy and paste The main fields of a sale contract are: Contract Date: The date at which the contract was made Shipment Date: The date at which the shipment has to be done. Buyer Name: The name of the buyer. Destination Port: The name of the port of the end destination. Payment Terms: The terms of payment whether cash, L/C, account, etc. Currency for transaction: The currency, which is being used for transaction. Product Code: The code of the product. It is a unique code which is designated to a specific product with specific specifications. If the product is reused in some other contract then the same product could be found with the help of its product code. Product Description:

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Operation Management

55

The description of the product. Description of the product represents the article name and size. Product description to generalize the products by a specific name and size and can be used easily and the product files are not needed to be made each time the product is used. Price Of the Product: The price of each article used in the contract is to be feed into the system and the system then it does the needed calculations and gives the total price of the contract, the discount at the mentioned rate ad net amount of the contract. Quantity of the Articles: The quantity to be shipped, which is required by the customer. After feeding the basic information, the system automatically performs the needed calculations and presents all the data in a presentable format as per the requirement of Gul Ahmed.

Benefits Of the Sale Contract System:

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management Reduction of time needed to do the calculations Standard format applied on all sale contracts Reduction in time needed to make contracts No need of making product files every time Updating the records is possible at any time Checking of previous contracts at any time is possible Product files can be updated and used as per customer requirement. Protected by each employees code.

56

Flaws in the System: Few shortcut keys Runtime error The contract cannot be saved until all the information has been feed.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

57

SAMPLING
I was assigned a job by my instructor Sir.Tanveer Arshad to make red seal samples for Gul Ahmeds UK customer NEXT. The samples included samples for user trial purpose, dry cleaning purpose, and make up purpose. The customer rejected the initial samples because they did not meet the customer requirements. Then another time the samples were made with a lot more attention and every single thing was kept in mind by the inspection team. The inspection team and I were inspecting the samples at every stage. Sampling: Sampling the backbone of a sale contract. Sample is a very important step while making a contract because of the fact that the customer looks at the sample instead of the bulk production to ensure perfection. There fore a sample should be made with a lot of attention. There are basically two type of samples as discussed below 1)Red Seal / Pre production Sample: Red seal sample is sent to the customer before production or when the customer asks for a sample before bulk production. Red seal sample is basically made for the stitching and fabric matching purposes. If the red seal ample is approved by the customer then the manufacturer starts bulk production. Red seal sample is made with a lot of attention and care because of the fact that the order for bulk production depends upon it. 2)Gold Seal / Top & Shipment Sample: Gold seal sample is also known as Black Seal/Shipment sample. This sample is sent with the bulk production .i.e. when the bulk production is sent. This sample shows what actually is in bulk production or we can say that the Gold seal sample is the representation of the bulk production. It is also made with great attention because it represents the bulk production and if it not made according to customer requirements then the customer may reject the bulk.

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

58

CUTTING LETTER
Cutting letter is a set of instructions, which is given by the marketing department to the stitching unit for fabric cutting. In this letter it is clearly mentioned that the how the articles are to be produced, how to utilize fabric width, cut size, versions, style etc. Also includes the packaging instructions per article, size instruction, barcode instruction, Inlay cards, poly bag, carton details, carton packaging etc. On the top of the cutting letter there is the design name, quality of fabric, shipment date, tentative date this date indicates the date on which the fabric and the packing material has to be in stitching unit.

SAMPLE CUTTING LETTER


Ref: - XX-YYY-ZZZ B-00100000 Messrs. Gul Ahmed Stitching Unit, Landhi, Karachi. Cutting, Stitching & Packing Instructions for unlind Rady Made curtain with self piped Tieback for our contract no. 030445C/KKEW.C.W. Textile.U.K DESIGN Quality Shipment Tentative Tolerance Articles to be Produced ITEM / SIZE Unlind RMC 66"x54" Unlind RMC 66"x72" Unlind RMC 66"x90" Self Piped Tie Back 3 Width pelment 34x340cm Important Shipment %age between sizes should be same. Cloth Ordered at Mill (100%) Finish Width 178CM FABRIC WIDTH 178cm 178cm 178cm 178cm 178cm CUT/ SIZE Front 3.04 3.96 4.88 0.30 0.90 Quantity 250Pairs 247Pairs 0Pairs 0Pcs ESTIMATED METERS Front 760 978 0 149 0 : XYZ : 12048/2416 Pc Satin : X-Y-Z : X-Y-Z(Availability of fabric & packing material) : -5% & 10% 05-Nov-08

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management
Linara Front L/L Stitching For style, dimensions follow strictly buyer's specification, Other Information 1. Design deviations must be within 1 to 2cm 2. Matching thread will be used. 3. Washing label will be stitched on Curtain & pelment. 4. Stitches required 9 per inch. 5. Blind stitching required in curtain with "L" bartack. Packing & Pack per carton instruction. 1. Plain polybag with printed inlay will be used. 2. Inlay Card & Inner sheets will be used as previously. 3. Position of barcode & Size Sticker will remain as previously. 4. Each curtain Pair will carry a Leaflet "May Be Dry Clean" 5. Each curtain pair will cary a pair of piped tieback. 6. Palletization shipment is required. 7. Each pallet will carry 50 cartons. Washing Label May be Dry Clean - Blue one Accessories to be arrange. Mr. XYZ, Following accessories to be arrange. 1. Polyestert Codr 716 Meters Shipping Marks Please contact to Mr. XYZ, Pallet Marks Please contact to Mr.XYZ. First get approval before start production. If any problem in this contract please, feel free to contact us for clarification. 2,200

59

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

60

PROCUREMENTS
Send internal purchase order to selected vendor or supplier with all done parameter such as prices, quality, qty etc for each order separately also included all detail about required sundries. Gul ahmed has been deployed ERP system for all procurements regarding accessories , dyes & chamachiles etc. ERP system has been connected with main office to evaluate the daily purchasing from all departments and Units which totally number of 08 in different section, GUL AHMED TEXTILE MILLS LTD
P.O NO. PLOT # 3 A, LANDHI,INDUSTRIAL AREA KARACHI PAKISTAN D10125 B

ORDER DATE :

18-06-08

IF REQUIRED ANY REMARKS TELEPHONE NO. 111-485-485 , 111-486-486 ( 92-21 ) - 5082625 & FAX NO, 5017565 G.SALES TAX NO. 02-04-5111-002-55

VENDOR ID ADDRESS CITY G.S.T # PHONE NO.

Design International PLOT 14, SEC 27 KARACHI FAX NO.

DELIVER TO GARMENTS PROJECT LSU-1 ORDERED BY M.Tauqeer ( MERCHANDISER ) PHONE NO. 111-486-486 EXT: 8242

xx.yy.zz

xx.yy.zz CONFIRM TO : MR. PHONE NO.

INVOICE TO : GUL AHMED TEXTILE MILLS LTD PLOT # 3 A , LANDHI INDUSTRIAL AREA KARACHI. GST # 02-04-5111002-55

xyz xx.yy.zz EXT:

S #

ARTICLE CODE ..125 B

ARTICLE DESCRIPTION / NOTE Pullover hoody with chest EMB. C-16 W-16

PCS / DZS (or) PACKING TYPE

UNIT COST RS.

TOTAL COST RS.

11726 1532

Pcs Pcs

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management
TOTAL RS:

61
0

NOTES:
1- PURCHASER RESERVES THE RIGHT TO CANCEL THE ORDER'S IN CASE OF LATE DELIVERY OF GOODS ANY MANNER FROM THE VENDOR 2-IF THE PRODUCTS DO NOT EVERY RESPECT CORRESPOND WITH THE DESCRIPTION SET FORTH ON THE PURCHASE ORDER. THE PURCHASER ORDER,THE PURCHASER AT ANY TIME RETURN ALL OR PART OF SUCH PRODUCTS AT THE VENDORS EXPENSE. 3- PURCHASERS ACCEPTANCE OF PRODUCTS SHALL BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE ACCEPTANCE CRITERIA SET IN TERMS OF QUALITY BETWEEN PURCHASER AND VENDOR. 4-THE PURCHASER RESERVES THE RIGHTS TO FILE A SUIT IN CASE OF ANY CLAIM ON THE VENDOR. 5-PAYMENT SCHEDULE 90 DAYS

FOR:GUL AHMED TEXTILE MILLS LTD

SUB TOTAL RS. GST 15% ORDER TOTAL RS.

APPROVAL

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

62

INTRODUCTION TO MERCHANDIZING
Merchandizing is taking and processing of an order.

Steps involved in merchandizing:


1. 2. 3. Buyer places an order. Merchandiser does the costing process and gives the cost of the order and a sample to the buyer. If the buyer approves it than the merchandiser places the order into the production,

BUYER

COST

ORDER

APPROVAL

MERCHANDISER

PRODUCTION

SHIPMENT

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Operation Management

63

ART WORK OF NEW DESIGN FORM CUSTOMER

SCREEN DEVELOPMENT

COLOUR MATCHING

ROTARY MACHINE/TABLE PRINTING

SAMPLE STITCHING

AFTER APPROVAL COSTING

PURCHASE ORDER

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

Operation Management

64

FABRIC CALCULATION

GREY PROCUREMENT

WET PROCESSING

FABRIC INSPECTION

FINISHED FABRIC PROGRAM FOR STITCHING UNIT

STITCHING, PACKING

SHIPMENT

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

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Operation Management

65

No doubt that that Gul Ahmed is one of the leading textile industries of Pakistan and has a good reputation everywhere. It is also admitted that Gul Ahmed possesses a good system of work and a hierarchy level, containing qualified personnel. Following are some of my observations during the preparation of my report: 1. Planning is the most important factor to perform all operations best so not in just Gul Ahmed we need to improvement in this department to pre plan all orders before starting each and every operation. As per our study JUST in TIME we need to assign a time schedule to each and every operation to complete their given task in given time period.

2.

3.

The alternative should be included when we going to plan each & every order to avoid any failure to complete every order in time..

Institute of Business & Technology (BIZTEK)

M.Tauqeer

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