DIAMOND GRADING: estimation of the quality and value of diamonds

Univ.Prof.Dr.Corina Ionescu
2011

Universitatea Babes-Bolyai Cluj-Napoca. Catedra de Mineralogie. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this file or part of this file may be made without permission of the author. The file is only for internal use in the Chair of Mineralogy, Babes-Bolyai University of Cluj-Napoca, Romania.

General data

Definition: estimation of the quality of diamonds (classification in quality classes) and estimation of the value (price) Suitable only natural diamonds:
Cut diamonds Loose stones Laser-drilled diamonds Not for: Treated (irradiated, dyed, HTHP) diamonds Synthetic diamonds Rough stones Fracture-filled diamonds

General data

International Diamond Council rules 10x loupe

Artificial light

equivalent to day light (3 bulbs each of 8 watt)

General data Main parts of a brilliant-cut diamond

General data
Order of observation:
crown pavilion side (girdle)

General data
Order of observation:
crown pavilion side (girdle)

General data
Order of observation:
crown pavilion side (girdle)

I. Estimation of the quality classes

The 4 c
1. Colour 2. Clarity 3. Cut 4. Carat

1. Colour

Colour grading: 6 classes based on the increasing yellow saturation

EW

RW

STW

TW

TC

Colour grading

Colour grading
Six Master stones: cubic zirconia (synthetic product): EW, RW, W, STW, TW, TC

Colour grading
GIA (Gemological Institute of America) colour grading scale

Colour grading
Symbols for colour grading (GIA system) Colour classes used till 1990 River Top Wesselton Wesselton Top Crystal Crystal Top Cape Cape Yellow Colour classes (actual system, Europe) Exceptional white Rare white White Slightly tinted white Tinted white Tinted colour (Light yellow) Fancy diamonds (All colours) Symbols for colour classes (Europe) EW RW W STW TW TC1 TC4

D E F G H I J K L MO Z

2. Clarity

Clarity grading

Clarity grading

Clarity grading
Internal features: features inclusions, cracks, structural planes External features [scratches, polishing lines, pits, cavities, natural faces (remnants), structural lines] which may decrease the clarity

Clarity grading: inclusions

- inclusions / solid, liquid, gas - cracks - growth lines - twinning planes - cleavage planes

Clarity grading: 7 classes

LC or IF (Loupe clean or Internally flawless) VVS (Very very small inclusions) VS (Very small inclusions) SI (Small inclusions) P1 (Pique 1) P2 (Pique 2) P3 (Pique 3)

Clarity grading: LC (Loupe clean) class

(or IF - Internally flawless)
Free from any inclusion at 10X loupe, nothing to be seen respectively; In USA no external defects are accepted; In Europe only external features which do not diminish the clarity, are accepted: small cleavage cracks along the girdle, growth lines, twinning lines.

Clarity grading: LC (Loupe clean) class

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Very, very small inclusions, difficult to be seen with 10X loupe The nature of the inclusions is impossible to be find only with 10X loupe

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VVS class

(Very very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VS class

(Very small inclusions)

Very small inclusions, which are difficult to be seen with 10X loupe

Clarity grading: VS class

(Very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VS class

(Very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VS class

(Very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VS class

(Very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: VS class

(Very small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Small inclusions, easily to be seen with 10X loupe but invisible with naked eye The presence of inclusions do not diminish the brilliance of the diamond

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: SI class

(Small inclusions)

Clarity grading: P1 class (Pique 1)

or Imperfect 1 Inclusions visible by naked eye, easily to be identified with 10X loupe The inclusions do not diminish the clarity/brilliance of the diamond

Clarity grading: P1 class (Pique 1)

Clarity grading: P1 class (Pique 1)

Clarity grading: P1 class (Pique 1)

Clarity grading: P1 class (Pique 1)

Clarity grading: P1 class (Pique 1)

Clarity grading: P2 class (Pique 2)

or Imperfect 2 Numerous and/or larger inclusions, easily to be seen with naked eye; the inclusions lightly diminish the clarity/brilliance of the diamond.

Clarity grading: P2 class (Pique 2)

Clarity grading: P2 class (Pique 2)

Clarity grading: P2 class (Pique 2)

Clarity grading: P2 class (Pique 2)

Clarity grading: P3 class (Pique 3)

or Imperfect 3

Larger and/or numerous inclusions easily seen with naked eye; The inclusions strongly diminish the clarity/brilliance of the diamond.

Clarity grading: P3 class (Pique 3)

Clarity grading: P3 class (Pique 3)

Clarity grading: P3 class (Pique 3)

Clarity grading: P3 class (Pique 3)

Clarity grading: P3 class (Pique 3)

Clarity grading P3 class (Pique 3)

The 4 c
3. Cut

Cut grading A. Proportions B. Symmetry features C. Polishing quality (finishing)

Cut grading A. Proportions B. Symmetry features C. Polishing quality (finishing)

Cut grading: proportions

Table diameter Crown angle Pavilion depth

Cut grading: proportions

Proportions Table diameter Crown height Crown angle Pavilion depth Girdle thickness Medium to poor < 53% < 9% < 27o < 40% Extremely thin Large (3-4%) or no culet Good 53 55% 9 10% 27 30o 40 41% Very thin Small to medium (2%) Very good 56 66% 11 15% 31 37o 42 - 45% Thin to medium (24%) Small (1%) Good 67 70% 16 17% 38 40o 46 47% Thick Small to medium (2%) Medium to poor > 70% > 17% > 40o > 47% Very thick Large (3-4%) or no culet

Culet size

Cut grading: proportions

Cut grading: proportions

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: table diameter ~ 54%

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: table diameter ~ 60%

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: table diameter ~ 66%

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: crown angle

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: girdle thickness

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: culet size

No culet

Small culet

Medium culet

Large culet

Very large culet

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: very good brilliance (very good proportions - pavilion of 43-44%)

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: good brilliance (good proportions -pavilion 46%)

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: Medium brilliance (good proportions -pavilion 48%)

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: medium brilliance (medium proportions-pavilion about 48%)

Cut grading: proportions

Empiric estimation: poor brilliance (poor proportions - too shallow pavilion, <40%)

Cut grading A. Proportions B. Symmetry features C. Polishing quality (finishing)

Cut grading: symmetry

A. Proportionoscope: measurable features - Deviation from a perfect round shape of the girdle (off round) - Table parallel to the girdle plane - Eccentric table or/and culet

Cut grading: symmetry

B. 10X loupe: not-measurable features: - Asymmetric table - Asymmetric culet - Facets of unequal size - Unequal thickness of the girdle - Missing the meet-point of the facets edges

Cut grading: symmetry

Cut grading: symmetry

Cut grading: symmetry

Cut grading: symmetry

Cut grading: symmetry

Cut grading: symmetry

Cut grading: symmetry

Points (deductions) 03 36 6 12 > 12 Symmetry Very good Good Medium Poor

Cut grading A. Proportions B. Symmetry features C. Polishing quality (finishing)

Cut grading: finishingpolishing

Cut grading: finishingpolishing

Quality of the surface
Without any polishing lines Few polishing lines Numerous and visible polishing lines Polishing lines which diminish the brilliance of the diamond

Polishing quality
Very good Good Medium

Poor

The 4 c
4. Carat

Carat grading
Mass (weight): carat 1 ct = 0.215 g 1ct = 100 points Weighting: balance, scale Mass (carat) = diameter2 x total depth x 0.0061 (up to 0.0064)

Carat grading
The value: only recalculated mass (measured mass minus the deductions due to the deviation from ideal proportions, symmetry and polishing)

BABE -BOLYAI UNIVERSITY CLUJ-NAPOCA FACULTY OF BIOLOGY AND GEOLOGY GEMOLOGICAL LABORATORY Nr._____________________-

DIAMOND GRADING REPORT Cut style and shape: brilliant, round Dimension_____________________mm Mass (weight)__________________ct
Red coloured symbols represent internal features. Green coloured symbols represent external features. The symbols indicate the nature and position of the features and not necesarly their size.

PROPORTIONS_________________
Table (%) Crown height(%) Pavilion depth (%)

________

_________

__________

Girdle_____________________ Culet______________________ FINISHING______________________ Polishing________________ Symmetry_______________ CLARITY_________________

DIAMOND EXPERT Name ________________________ Signature _____________________ Data__________________________

COLOUR___________________ Visual________________ Photometric_____________ Luminiscence___________

COMENTS

II. Value

Base for evaluation: value of an ideal diamond W-LC: white, loupe clean
Mass (weight) 0,18 0,19 ct 0,30 0,32 ct 0,40 0,42 ct 0,50 0,59 ct 0,70 0,74 ct 0,94 0,95 ct 0,96 ct 0,97 ct 0,98 ct 0,99 ct 1,00 ct Price per ct (n $) for 1999 900 2.300 2.600 2.800 2.950 3.200 3.300 3.400 3.500 3.600 4.000

Ratio (%) between the ideal diamond value and other diamonds
LC Exceptional white (EW) Rare white (RW) White (W) Slightly tinted white (STW) Tinted white (TW) Tinted (TC2) colour 170 140 100 80 70 50 VVS 140 100 80 70 60 40 VS 100 90 75 65 45 30 SI 70 65 60 55 35 25 P1 60 50 45 35 25 20 P2 50 40 35 30 20 15 P3 35 30 25 20 15 10

Eureka diamond

Guineea Star diamond

Princesse cut diamond