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Exhaust Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes

Dr. Tanveer Hussain

Common Exhaust dyeing applications

Dyeing of knitwear in jet/soft-flow machine Dyeing of yarn in package dyeing machine Dyeing of woven fabrics in high-pressure jigger

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Polyester Fiber Variants

Physical
Different molecular weights Different amorphous and crystalline regions Different cross-sections Texturing variations Different denier

Chemical
Added sulphonic acid groups for cationic dyeability Added co-monomers for easy dye characteristics
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Disperse Dye Variants

Low energy disperse dyes
High rate of diffusion Can be dyed at atmospheric temp. easily with carrier Usually poor sublimation fastness

Medium energy disperse dyes

Moderate rate of diffusion Usually requires high temperature exhaust methods Requires a carrier in atmospheric dyeing

High energy disperse dyes

Low rate of diffusion Requires high temperature dyeing method Usually good wet, light and sublimation fastness

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Incompatible Dyes

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Dr. Tanveer Hussain

Compatible Dyes

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Disperse Dyeing Auxiliaries

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Anti-crease Wetting agent Dispersing agent Diffusion accelerant Leveling agent pH assistant Carrier Defoamers
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Typical Dyeing Auxiliaries

Anti-creasing agent 0-2 g/l Dearating/wetting agent 0.5 g/l pH buffer 1-2 g/l Dispersing agent 0-1 g/l Leveling agent 0.5-2 g/l (Oligomer dispersant) 0-3 g/l (optional)

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Anti-crease lubricants
Function Typically used in jet dyeing machine to avoid rope marks in knits Types Polymer based Softener based Oil/wax based

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Polymer-based lubricants
May be based on polyacrylamide- water soluble polymers Have good compatibility with dyeing auxiliaries Free rinsing/no residue on the fabric Limited effect on heavy weight fabrics

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Softener-based lubricants
Mainly non-ionic or cationic Must check for compatibility Foaming can be an issue More suited for heavier weight fabrics Too much could affect fabric absorbency Can also affect fastness properties

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Oil/wax-based lubricants
Usually based on mineral oil or paraffin, emulsified in a surfactant May be incompatible with disperse dyes or other dyeing auxiliaries Potential spotting problem Non-ionic emulsifiers can create problems with cloud points, becoming insoluble and spotting Must check for salt sensitivity
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Important Characteristics of Lubricants

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Bath stability Reduction of the fabric friction Cold water solubility Ionic nature Percent solids pH value Stability to electrolyte, alkali, acid, etc.
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Creases/abrasion marks

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Abrasion marks

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Crease marks
May result from

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Too tight fabric construction Too high yarn twist Too high fabric density Too heavy fabric batch Poor sewing Incorrect loading twisted rope Poor suitability of dyeing machine Heating/cooling too fast Fabric friction on hot machine metal
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Some tips to avoid crease/rope marks

Sewing & Loading

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Some tips to avoid crease/rope marks..

Reducing fiber-to-metal friction

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Dispersing agent
Function
Improves dye dispersion stability Enhances dye solubility Prevent dye agglomeration

Ionic Nature
Usually anionic, but may be non-ionic

Other Considerations
HT dispersion stability is very important May be sensitive to electrolyte
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Leveling agent - retarder

Function
Helps in achieving level dyeing by optimizing the rate of dye exhaustion and adsorption retarders Can minimize re-deposition of oligomers No effect on barre No improvement in ring dyeing

Ionic Nature
Mostly non-ionic in nature

Other Considerations
Typically used in combination with dispersing agent Must use correct amount, or retard colour yield
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Leveling Agent - diffusion accelerant

Function
Swells fiber and increases rate of diffusion Helps to cover barre Prevent ring dyeing

Ionic Nature
Mostly anionic ester of aromatic compounds

Other Considerations
Some affect light fastness
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Carriers
Unpleasant odour Can cause stains May be toxic Tend to reduce light fastness Residual tend to remain on the fiber Not usually recommended these days

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Anti-foaming agents
Types
Dispersions of silicone oil/fluids and hydrophobic silica Non-silicone types based on vegetable oil Non-silicone types based on mineral oil Fatty acid and fatty alcohol

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Anti-foaming agents
Characteristics
Foam control Shear stability pH stability Electrolyte stability Dispersability Self stability

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Sequestering agents
Functions
Prevent dyestuff agglomeration and spots due to Ca, Mg, heavy metals, etc. Improve the solubility of dyes in the presence of salt Contribute to the levelness of the dyebath

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Effect of metals in disperse dyeing

Shade change Loss in depth Spots
Affecting metals: copper, iron, calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese

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pH control products
Usually based on acetic acid, formic acid, etc. or proprietary mixtures of organic and inorganic substances Commonly used disperse dyeing pH 4.04.5

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Typical disperse dyeing process

A = Dyeing Auxiliaries; B = Disperse Dye; C = Reduction Clearing; D = Neutralization

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Typical disperse dyeing process

A = Dyeing Auxiliaries; B = Disperse Dye; C = Reduction Clearing; D = Neutralization

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Removal of unfixed dye

Rinse only (for very light shades) Rinse with surfactants (for light-med. Shades) Alkaline reduction clearing (dark shades)
1-2 g/l detergent/dispersant 4-6 ml/l caustic soda 38Be 1-3 g/l reducing agent (sodium dithionite)

Neutralization
1 ml/l acetic acid (80%)
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Typical alkaline reduction clearing

Dye by SOP Cool to 60C, overflow rinse 5 min. & drain Fill at 40-50C, add 2-4 % soda ash Heat to 60C, add 2-4 % sodium hydrosulfite Heat to 70C and run for 20 min. Cool to 60C and overflow rinse 5 min. & drain Fill and run 5 min. at 50C. Drain Fill, add 0.5 % acetic acid (56%) and run 5 min.

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