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WARRIOR
WORN OUT
ANDY TAYLORS 1:35 IRAQI T69 CONVERSION
Issue 70 cover:Issue 26 cover 11/04/2013 17:44 Page 1
WINGNUT
WINGS
A I R MO D E L L E R S G U I D E T O
V O L U M E I
WWW. AFVMODELLER. COM
C OM I N G S O O N
advert_gotha:Layout 1 11/04/2013 13:55 Page 1
2 Iraqi T-69 II
Andy Taylor converts Tamiyas T55 to a worn-out Iraqi warrior
12 T-69 II Walk Around
Close-up reference of the real deal presented by Alex Van Riezen
16 sWS with Flak 3.7
A 1:16 scratch-building extraviganza by Bruno Carsuzaa
26 Sandbagged Sherman
M4A3 (76) Gypsy Caravan by Antonio Martin Tello
34 Morris C9
The Editor builds Resicasts 1:35 British armoured car
44 Keeping Track
More new releases
54 BRDM 2
Chechnya vignette modelled by ukasz Orczyc - Musiaek
CONTENTS
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or ommissions.
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ISSN 1747-4183
1
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T A K E I T F O R A S P I N . . .
( M O R E I N F O O N P A G E 3 7 )
W W W. A F V M O D E L L E R . C O M / D I G I T A L
I N T E R A C T I V E
F E A T U R E
AFV-70 May June 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 11/04/2013 15:38 Page 1
2
The AA MG is the Chinese copy of the Dushka, a
type 54, without cooling fins along the barrel. A
command variant was also employed featuring
stowage tube on turret roof for extending antenna,
2 large stowage boxes attached to the rear plate to
carry communication equipment, cables, and
generator.
I decided to depict a type commonly used in the
Gulf War, lacking the smoke launcher tubes and
boom shields, this particular vehicle is one of the
many that found their way back to collections within
the UK. Some examples have many fixtures and
fittings missing; others have some parts missing
but still retain many features, such as lights, AA MG
cradle, rubber skirt sections and tracks etc.
Many sharp blades have passed since I first started
this project, over 10 years ago. Unknown to me at
the time was the fact that another modeller Charlie
Pritchett had also began the building of a Type 69.
Eventually the few parts Charlie had built found
their way to me, so the project was restarted and
with a visit to Bovington tank museum in Dorset UK,
armed with a camera and a tape measure I had
lots of information to go on. The initial masters were
cast, first by Graham Tetley, who did an amazing
job. However the final stage was to go full circle
and find its way back to Charlie Pritchett at
Verlinden productions for availability on a larger
scale. I would estimate that around maybe 3 to 400
hours went into the building of the original Masters,
but many more deliberating over details, images
and measuring etc.
The Iraq Type 69II is a Chinese built tank constructed by the Norinco
industries. Its a development of the Type 59 [based on the Soviet T-54]. It
has many detail differences, such as rubber track guards, IR Lights, twin
headlamp arrangement on the fenders and Laser range finder. The
Chinese type gunners sight, and the distinctive rear fan hump derived
from the T-62. Other details included 8 smoke dischargers similar to the
German Wegman 76mm type [4 either side of turret] plus an array of
spaced boom shields encompassing the turret.
Andy Taylor's T69 article (Q8):Layout 1 11/04/2013 18:13 Page 1
3
ANDY TAY LOR S 1 : 3 5 I RAQI ARMY
4
The first job here was to determine which
resin parts to use, as I had at my disposal
the Verlinden set and the original Airedale
castings parts to hand. As I had some of
the Airedale parts cleaned up as I decided
to use the engine deck parts, with the fan
covers made by Charlie in the Verlinden
set. (This part was missing from my original
master.) Some modifications were made to
the Tamiya hull such as laminating the front
glacis plate, and rear plate (the Fenders
were removed at this point). This saved lots
of filling but also helped to widen the area
rear of the oil cooler and fan hatches which
is too shallow on the Tamiya kit.
Another feature fitted at this point was the
various filler access covers, again another
part I missed made by Charlie. Here you
need to remove the 2 moulded onto the
hull top at the front adjacent to the drivers
hatch and fit 2 of the resin covers as on the
model here. New fenders incorporating the
strengthening angle iron welded to the
outer edge to carry the rubber side shields
were measured and fitted, along with the
fender braces that were made using an old
Part P/E fret as a template to cut out new
ones from plastic card. Once this is all
glued using Liquid poly and left for a few
hours to set its quite a strong bond. The
front fenders were kept from the original
Tamiya ones removed earlier, and were
thinned out from behind using a dremel on
slow setting... be very careful here as too
much heat will melt the plastic. The
brackets to hold the rubber track guards to
the fenders were made and fitted referring
to references, as these parts were omitted
from the Verlinden set. Also the many drain
holes need to be added to the fenders
referring to references. An etched light
cover was carefully folded to shape using a
small drill bit in a pin vice to create the
curved corners. This was tacked in place
so it could be easily removed to enable
fitting of the lights and to help with painting.
The Tamiya lights are actually too big and
in hindsight I should have included the
correct ones, these can be found in a
couple of old Trumpeter kits and the new
Bronco Chinese APCs.
Some other details, such as the front
fender hold down bars and zip box mounts
were added using plastic strips and rod.
The large zip box you see on the model has
a lid that was scratchbuilt, in order to
depict it damaged and twisted, but also to
show the correct pressed design which is
actually incorrect in the resin sets.. (a
mistake on my part). The front tow hooks
(another part deleted from Verlindens set)
were added using some resin copies I did.
The Tamiya ones are too shallow. Welds
were added around these using Milliput.
Moving onto the engine deck, this is pretty
straightforward following the Instructions,
however the torsion bars took a couple of
attempts to get right... even though I built
them in the original master. Etched radiator
screens were a perfect fit, just adding
some damage was all that was needed.
Hul l Assembl y
5
The turret is a solid resin part,
unfortunately the texture is a little
too heavy so was gently sanded
back with some 400 wet and dry.
Sadly Verlinden did not include the
Type 54 AA MG as in the Airedale
set, so I decided to use one from
a Chinese APC from Bronco. Just
using the cradle parts.
The resin mantlet from Mig
Productions was used as I wanted
to show a torn and frayed mantlet
cover, after a few failed attempts I
opted for superfine white Milliput,
which actually worked very well
after rolling out very thin. It was
gently cut into small sections and
added bit by bit, manipulating it
with a brush dipped in water to
help it to stick. Tweezers and a
knife were also used to fray the
edges etc. I did originally master
the correct mantlet modifying the
kit part to depict the different
arrangement of bolt detail etc on
the type 69, but this part was also
deleted from the Verlinden set.
As you can see on the pre-painted
model the area around the resin
mantlet was scratch built. The kit
barrel was used, with some gentle
sanding it is a very good rendition
just requiring the bolt head to the
lower underside of the fume
extractor. This is a perfect fit into
the resin mantlet.
Another feature I added was to
drill out the main IR light, to show
it with a missing glass front, but I
was unable to find a suitable
method for the chromed inside,
Alclad was used and buffed to a
polish but I was not happy with the
finish, so a clear lens was cut
using a p-cutter, and Tamiya
smoke was airbrushed onto the
back before attaching. Rear tie
down loops were made using the
kit parts as a Template. The AA
MG stowage mounts on the rear
of the turret were also made from
evergreen; the kit parts are a little
chunky.
Tur r et
Wheel s and Tr acks
The tracks in the kit are unacceptable in
my opinion, as with all tracked vehicles
from Tamiya usually the vinyl rubber band
type. These were replaced with a set from
Modelkasten which are excellent and still
stand up in terms of accuracy and detail
to other more recent releases from other
manufacturers. Although a little tedious to
clean up and build, they certainly add
more realism to the model, generating a
natural sag, I know most modellers prefer
the easier to build Friulmodellismo track
set, but these in my opinion are a little
over scale and dont fit snugly around the
sprocket.
Idler and sprocket are excellent and need
no further work, the wheels too capture
the detail and shape of the Starfish type
of the T-55, although on this model I chose
to use a set I previously mastered showing
a missing centre cap, this I thought gives
the model a more derelict look.
In order to remove any dust and debris
which have built up over the course of a
build from sanding the resin or plastic, I
always wash all parts gently under luke
warm water before using a soft brush to
remove futher residue. Left to dry
overnight, the model is coated using
Tamiya grey fine primer. This is left to dry
for a few days to harden although I think a
few hours would be sufficient.
6
Pai nt i ng and Weat her i ng
7
I tried a few different shades of the sand on
an old model before deciding to use Tamiya
Buff, with Lifecolour dust type 1 over the top,
as this model was to show signs of neglect I
first used the tried and tested hairspray
technique, I dont think this method needs
explaining here, its been covered many times
in other articles and on various internet
modelling forums.
The base colour was Tamiya flat brown and
linoleum; certain areas were gently
dry-brushed using Humbrol Matt 30 to create
some worn areas of the base colour showing
through. More defined chips of the green
base colour were made using Vallejo
Reflective green, a Winsor and Newton series
7 000 brush is perfect for the chipping
process. I then set to work using Vallejo
German camo black, brown to create darker
areas of rust and chips, this is a very slow
progress requiring a lot of indecision as to
where and how much chipping to add, many
areas were for the want of a better
description mapped using a sand colour
mixed using Vallejo Iraqi sand and pale Yellow
thinned with tap water, to highlight some
areas or to go over some of the previously
applied dark rust chips. I would say around 2
or 3 weeks was needed to get to where I was
happy with the rust/chips. I understand other
methods which would have been much
quicker, could have been employed but felt
the sponge technique for example lacked
precision. A coat of Humbrol matt varnish was
applied with the airbrush and left for 24 hours
to protect the model for the next stage of
weathering.
A couple of heavily thinned Rust wash mix
from AK was used on the entire model next,
giving the stark base colour a little warmth.
Various darker but still very thin oils were used
around details, and onto the previous chips to
create some staining. This method involves
just touching and area with the thinned oil,
and using another clean brush in thinners to
move the oils around until you are happy with
the tone. Plenty of drying time is required
between modelling sessions when using oils.
Again the mapping with the base colour
can be used over any areas you are not
happy with or the stain is too much.
Applying a rust tone back over this creates
some depth. This is better actually and
helps the weathering to be built up in
layers. The markings were airbrushed
through plastic sheet templates using
photos for reference, this was done before
any weathering to allow them to be
blended in, and Tamiya acrylics were used
for this.
Finally rust streaks were again built up in
very thin layers, first brushes thin lines
emanating from rust and scratches, you
need to keep these lines straight and use
some images to help you understand how
they look on the real vehicle, these are
allowed to dry for a few minutes before
blending them with a brush in clean
thinners.
The tracks were first airbrushed with a
mixture of Black and flat brown from
Tamiya, when dry I applied a mix of Europe
dust and beach sand with Tamiya thinners
and brushed this over the whole track runs,
making sure the mixture was quite thin.
When dry you are left with a very realistic
crusty sand effect in the recesses. Finally a
dry brush with Humbrol enamels of varying
colours from Dark brown to black are used
to further enhance the dark rust tones
found on these tracks when exposed to the
harsh elements of the desert.
Finally some 3.5 mm lenses were added to
the lights on the fenders before attaching
to the model, these were then weathered
slightly with thinned burnt umber oils.
Kits used;
Tamiya T-55
Verlinden type 69 conversion
Airedale casting type 69 conversion
Modelkasten T-55 workable track set
Celticwerk T-55 wheels
Grief clear lenses
I would like to thank the Editor David Parker,
Charlie Pritchett & Tim Roberts
8
9
This was a highly rewarding project,
although sometimes it was a test of
my modelling skills especially the
bar armour, the main IR search
lamp, and commanders light. I am
happy with how this model turned
out, maybe we will see this in plastic
kit form one day. Now Tamiya seem
to be releasing other variants on
their successful T-55 kit.
10
Above The T-62 style
bulge is very clear in
this picture. Under the
small square plate is
probably the entry
point of the round that
knocked out this tank.
Far-Right The shape
of the whole hull is
different when
compared with T-54,
T-55 and Type 59
tanks.
TYPE
The Chinese Type 59 tank, which entered
production in 1957, is basically a licensed
produced version of the Russian
T-54/T-54A tank. At the end of the 70s the
Type 59 was succeeded by the Type 69.
The first version of the Type 69 was the
Type 69-I and is armed with a 100 mm
smoothbore gun instead of a rifled 100
mm gun as found on the T-54, T-55 and
Type 59. It wasnt until 1982 that the Type
69-I was seen by the West. Several
sources mention that only 150 vehicles of
this type were produced. The most
common version of the Type 69 family by
far is the Type 69-II which first appeared
in 1984. The Type 69-II is armed with a
rifled 100 mm gun, almost identical to the
main gun used by the Russian T-55 tank.
The Type 69 is more or less on the same
standard as the Russian T-54B but there
are some visual differences.
Right Detail shots of
the lower sides of the
hull.
T69 walkaround article (q8):Layout 1 11/04/2013 18:33 Page 1
PHOTOS & TEXT ALEX VAN RIEZEN
The easiest ones are the two head
lights units which are placed on both
fenders instead of a single unit on the
glacis, saw tooth side skirts, a laser
range finder on top of the main gun
and the round bulge on the rear back
plate. The bulge was necessary due
to the larger cooling fan for the new
more powerful 580 HP engine. This
feature was copied from a Russian
T-62 which was captured during the
Sino-Russian border conflict in 1969.
The straight welding line across on
the frontal side of the hull is typical for
both Type 59 and Type 69 tanks,
these plates are interlocked on
Russian T-54 tanks. Also the shape of
the whole hull of the Type 69 is
different if compared with other T-54,
T-55 and Type 59 tanks. This is most
evident from the frontal side. The
lower hull plate is rectangular instead
of the usual lower right and left
clipped corners. Some Type 69-II
tanks are equipped with boom shields
and smoke dischargers on the turret.
The Type69-IIB and C are the
command versions, these are
equipped with extra radios and have
two antennas in total. Between the
two turret hatches is a cylindrical
storage box for antenna parts. On the
rear plate of the hull are two boxes
containing a field phone and cables.
Iraq received the Type 69-II during the
Iran-Iran War (1980-1988) and used
them ever since. Even today some
units of the New Iraqi Army still uses
them. A lot of Iraqi Type 69-II tanks
were captured during Desert Storm
and many can be seen in museums
or as gate guardians. Other versions
in the Type 69 family include the
T-69-IIP and T-69-IIMP used by
Pakistan and are armed with a copied
version of the British L7 gun. The
T-69-IIMP is the locally produced
version. Strangely enough the
Pakistanis call these tanks T instead
of Type. Other users include
Bangladesh, Iran, Myanmar, Sri
Lanka, Thailand and Zimbabwe. A
single Type 69-II was also observed in
Afghanistan, possibly of Pakistani
origin.
Below-Left The saw
tooth side skirts are
found on a lot of Iraqi
Type 69-II tanks, the
Iraqis also mounted
them on some of their
T-62 tanks but these
side skirts are quite
flimsy.
11
Right Notice what the
elements have done
with the tank after
being on display
outside for over 20
years.
Right This Iraqi Type
69-II is equipped with
a KMT-6 mine plough.
Below Detail shot of
the teeth of the KMT-6
mine plough.
Above Detail photos
of how the KMT-6
mine plough is
attached to the KMT
mounts on the lower
side of the hull.
12
13
Left The horn, if the
sound of the tank
engine is not enough.
Far Left One of the
recognition features of
the Type 69-II are the
head lights units on
both fenders. It seems
this one is missing the
protective plate with
treadplate.
Below The Type 69-II
is armed with the Type
54 Heavy Machine
gun. This is the
Chinese version of the
Russian DShKM. The
Chinese version does
not have the distinctive
ribs on the barrel.
Left The fuel plumbing
system has been
removed over the
years. Also note the
way the fuel cells have
rusted.
14
Right At the rear of
the turret is a single
positional light for
night time operations.
Far-Right IR serach
light for the
commander. Also
note the Western style
antenna and antenna
base.
Left & Below The
big ventilator on the
roof is a recognition
feature also present
on the Russian T-54
series and the
Chinese Type 59.
The IR serach light of
the Type 69 has very
distinctive ribs.
Below Some interior
shots of the Type 69-II.
Also note the original
green paint on the
breech block.
Above The Type 69-II
is also equipped with a
TLR1A laser range
finder.
Left Front view of the
IR search light,
actually just a search
light with an IR filer
placed in front.
15
Note Ammo racks
for the 100mm
grenades. All the
instruction panels
had English text
written on them.
16
WITH 3.7CM FLAK 43
SCHWERER
WEHRMACHTSCHLEPPER
sws flak article (Q8):Layout 1 11/04/2013 16:44 Page 1
17
RESEARCHING A RARE BEAST
Hours of searches on the Web, allowed me to find
archive photos, plans and articles. However photos of
the inside of the cab of the armoured version are rare.
Those I did find gave only very limited help with partial
views. Pictures taken in museums were a precious
source of information. I took advantage of these
sources and would like to thank the enthusiasts who
through their walkarounds allowed me to bring this
project to a successful conclusion. In spite of some
gaps, the design phase could begin.
I estimate it at 90% because I did not realize tracks or
front wheels, taken on a cluster Tamiya of the Panzer IV
RC in the 1:16. The used materials are essentially of
the plastic card of diverse thicknesses and plastic
profiles.
One of my projects was to realize a
half-tracked vehicle in 1:16 scale.
Surfing on the Web, a magnificent sWS
with armoured cab, equipped with a
FLAK43 in 1:35 caught my attention.
Besides the fact that this vehicle does not
exist in 1:16 scale a double challenge
appealed to me... To scratchbuild both
the Flak and the vehicle.
BRUNO CARSUZAAS
Scratchbuilt sWS / Flak 43
At first sight, the Flak 43 gun seems
impossibly complex to model, Its
construction was approached by breaking
it down into simple sub-assemblies and
think also about the required access for
painting later. A Trumpeter kit in 1:35
served as a basis for me to work from and
the measurements were scaled up from
this into 1:16. Luckily I found a good
walkaround of a complete Flak 43 on the
web and along with some period photos
and those I had taken of the mobelwagen
at Saumur Tank Museum, I had enough
information to build a detailed replica of the
gun.
The conical muzzle flash guard was made
from metal foil shaped over the tip of a
ball-point pen and then the holes were
drilled out. The armour shields were made
from 0.5mm thick plastic card and the
camouflage loops were made from very
thin copper wire that I salvaged from an old
electric transformer. The shell case basket
to catch the spent cartridges is made from
a suitably sized tulle cloth with wide holes,
which was glued to a plastic rod frame with
CA glue. The period photos showed that
there are at least 2 types of these baskets.
I opted for the simplest version! As in the
real basket the netting is held in position by
a wire wound around the framework.
The figures are originally from Trumpeter.
I personalized them by sculpturing tankers
helmets. It is the only modification to the
relaxed figure (701). For the second figure
(702), I was inspired by an illustration found
in an Osprey book about the Red Army.
I modified the position of the right hand,
replaced the hands (Verlinden), added a
bottle and a flag made from aluminium
sheet in his right hand. They were both
painted with Prince August acrylics.
18
3.7cm FLAK 43
19
Photo Reference
Revells 1:35 scale kit served as reference, and
I decided to follow its design for my build.
However 1:16th forces constraints which we
do not find in the smaller scales. The size of a
part, its thickness which has to be the closest
possible to reality, and whether its function,
means that it has to withstand certain weight
or not, limits the choice of materials while
remaining as close to reality as possible. The
chassis frame is made in 3mm plastic card for
reasons of strength.
The metal tracks, I bought from a German
shop but the sprockets and idlers must be
made from scratch. Given that my equipment
amounts to different cutters, some files, a
compass equipped with a blade, and drills I
had to work out my own techniques to build
these.
As I do not have casting expertise two sets of
the sprockets and idlers wheels all had to be
constructed. The threaded track tensioning
control for the idler wheels is imitated by
wrapping thin copper wire around a plastic
rod. Road wheels come from a 1:16th resin kit,
the only kit in resin of the sWS existing in this
scale to my knowledge but the open cab
cargo version.
20
THE sWS CHASSIS
Regrettably the quality of casting of
this kit being so deplorable that these
parts are the only ones which
deserved to have a second chance.
The remainder having ended their brief
existence in my rubbish bin. Even so it
was necessary for me to rework again
them so that they matched the actual
wheels.
After several abortive attempts, I
concluded that I am not really able to
scratchbuild tires. I hope to be capable
of it one day. That is the reason that
the front wheels were made for me by
the French company Aurore Arka of
Toulouse using a 3D printer, they are
made from acrylic resin with an
excellent delicacy and fine detail - a
magnificent job!
On the basis of photos from museums,
I designed a completely functional
steering system. As I still had no idea
about the diorama, this option allowed
me to have more possibilities for any
diorama. Because of its simple
shapes, the frame is the least complex
element to be constructed. Particular
attention was paid to getting it square.
I did not construct the winch on my as
I dont believe it was fitted to the Flak
vehicles.
21
Because of its angled panels, the
armoured cab is a tricky shape to
construct. To save plastic card, I first used
cardboard to make templates until I
obtained the correct shapes. The internal
partitions took the longest to achieve. For
the internal details, I based my build on
the standard model with open cabin.
Regrettably lack of references did not
allow me to make a fully accurate
reproduction of the inside of the armoured
version. The lack of visibility into the
interior will compensate for these
shortcomings. The system for opening the
vision ports is detailed using the same
mechanisms as used on the SdKfz 251as
inspiration. For the side openings, it is
likely that they opened by revolving on an
axis upward. The ventilator louvers on the
cabin hood were duplicated with magic
sculp from a piece of sculptured plastic
profile. I made the radio set copying the
type typically fitted to armoured vehicles. I
hope not to have gone too far away from
reality.
22
THE sWS CAB & BODY
1:16TH SCALE
1:35TH SCALE
By examining reference photos
I noticed that the back of the
loadbed is not a standardised
pattern, I opted one more time
for the type that is the simplest
to model. Several tries were
necessary to position correctly
the mounting points for the Flak
onto the loadbed.
The loadbed is constructed easily
given its simple geometrical form.
Side rails are functional as well as
their system of locking. The wire
netting is cut from thick plastic
anti-mosquito meterial. The anti-skid
floor is Slaters plastic card. The
locks on the ammunitions bins and
the tool clasps are Abers
photoetched offerings.
23
For the halftrack, I wanted a camouflage of
three very pale tones and a little more
contrasted for the Flak 43. A pre-shade
was applied of Tamiya XF10 Flat Brown.
The base colour is a mixture of colours
Deserted Tamiya XF2, Flat White, XF59
Dessert Yellow and XF3 Flat Yellow.
Stripes of XF5 Flat Green and XF XF10 Flat
Brown diluted in the thinner Tamiya X-20A
was then applied. Several layers of the
tinted and diluted base are applied overall
with an airbrush on low pressure until I had
the desired effect for the sWS. The vehicle
is completely drybrushed in oil light yellow
ochre on the sides and light yellow ochre +
white with Titanium on the flat surfaces.
The sWS will be presented abandoned in
Kolberg on the edge of a quay, having
travelled through a city under continual
bombarded. Streaked washes of grey,
green, ochre are applied. Pigment powders
are then added in small quantities to
replicate the dust. The floor of the platform
is drybrushed with some Metal Cote then
polished with a soft brush. It then receives
several passes with earth toned pigments
and pigment fixer, followed by several
layers of diluted Tamiya XF57 Buff to imitate
the accumulated dust.
The lower chassis and the inside of the
mudguards are covered with a mixture of
pure silica, with plaster, wood glue and with
different earth tones. Once dry, they
received a diluted wash with Burnt Umber
oil paint. 24 hours later, they were
drybrushed with various of ochre coloured
oils. The metal tracks underwent the same
processing having beforehand been
painted with Humbrol Matt 100, Matt 82
and Matt 70. The excess earth mix is
removed with an wire brush and the
metallic parts are drybrushed with some
Metal Cote then slightly polished.
The insides of ammunition lockers is
painted in red oxide primer. The
camouflage of the Flak 43 is realized in the
same way as for the sWS but with less
faded colours. On the Flak, chipped paint
effects were added on the shield and the
base. Stains of lubricating oils are imitated
with black Matt 85 Humbrol diluted in the
white spirit. The wear of the paint on seats
is reproduced with a drybrushing of Metal
Cote then polished with a brush. The barrel
is airbrushed with Prince August AIR's
mixture: 50% Black 057 + 50% Metal 73.
and the whole thing is treated with some
pigment powders for a dusty look.
24
PAINTING & FINISHING
The walls for the base are textured with a
mixture of wood glue, fine sand and plaster. The
whole thing is painted in black. The advantage of
using black is to save time because it avoids
putting down washes darkened to simulate the
wet joints between the stones. Before engraving,
the stone walls are rubbed with a wire brush to
vary the finish. They were then painted in oils in
different ochre, grey, green and brown tones.
The top of the quay is made with a mixture of
wood glue, pure silica, plaster and resin. It is also
coloured in black. Having engraved the joint lines
a brushing in Payne grey, Titanium white and
ochre oils gives a concrete look.
To make the water, I consulted modern photos of
Kolberg which allowed me to define the colour of
the water. The basis was then painted in dark
greens and blue tones. Next I poured several
layers of clear resin slightly tinted with green to
give a deep effect.
The application of a gloss acrylic gel allowed me
to create the ripples on the surface. The empty
200 litre fuel drums are from Schumo Kits. The
wooden boxes with the eagle are from Xion.
The street lamp, the jerry cans and the different
boxes are from Verlinden. The chair is a personal
creation.
Thanks to David Parker, Andres Montiel Marin
and Antoine Puzo for the help which they
brought me through their objective, constructive
and pertinent criticisms. Thank you also to
Sylvain Deschamps of "L'ARCHER LORMONTAIS"
club of Bordeaux for his invaluable advice during
the conversion and the painting of the figures.
Web references:
http://www.pietvanhees.nl/sws/index.htm
http://www.primeportal.net/artillery/yuri_pasholok/
3.7_cm_flak_43/
Books references:
Panzer tracks n12, Waffen-Arsenal Sonderband
78, Osprey Men-at-armes 216
THIS PROJECT IS FINISHED.
Its certainly not perfect but I took
great pleasure in the construction.
1:16 is certainly my favourite scale
and not often explored by the major
manufacturers making completion of
a model such as this all the more
satisfying.
25
26
....However, some expedient solutions were
implemented at local or unit levels, such as
welding of spare track links or sections,
application of concrete layers, welding of
additional armour plates scavenged from
disabled tanks, and the addition of
sandbags The usefulness of some of
these methods as an effective protection
against the antitank weapons of the period
is debateable.
Some sources state that these DIY
methods were mere psychological
measures to raise the crews morale, but
without any effectiveness. On the other
hand, other people argue that they did
increase the protection of the tanks,
especially against the new portable
Panzerfaust and Panzerschrek German
anti-tank weapons, which, in fact, were the
most feared due to their mass production
and widespread availability. Some units
actively embraced some of these methods,
whilst others discouraged or forbad their
use. Thus, for example, the Seventh Army
almost systematically tackled the
installation of racks with sandbags on the
hulls and sometimes the turrets their two
Armoured Divisions, the 12th and 14th, a
task performed by the maintenance units of
the Armoured Battalions of the divisions.
On the contrary, the Commander of the
Third Army, General George S. Patton, was
against the use of sandbags on his tanks,
arguing that this only made them heavier,
slower, more prone to breakdowns and
increased the fuel consumption.
Curiously, the 14th Armoured Division was
transferred from the 7th to the 3rd Army on
April 23 1945, and when General Patton
saw the columns of sandbagged Shermans
of the unit (now under his command) he did
not hide his feelings. There is a well known
a photograph of the frowning General
walking away after rebuking a poor tank
crew in their sandbagged M4A3E8. This is
the photo that inspired my work.
s the war in Europe
progressed, the
perception among
American tankers of
the need for better
armour protection for their tanks
increased. Nevertheless, this
concern was not shared by the
authorities, more involved in the
development of the new T26
Pershing than in the improvement of
the existing M4 medium tanks, and
with the exception of the production
of about 250 M4A3E2 assault tanks,
nowadays known as Sherman
Jumbo, nothing was done about
this...
Gypsy Caravan:Layout 1 11/04/2013 17:30 Page 1
27
M4A3(76), 14th Armoured Division, Germany 1945
By Antonio Martin Tello
A motley model
A sandbagged Sherman had been on my
to-do-list for a long time. Several years
ago I got the Legend Sherman accessory
set #1 (ref LF015), which in fact is a
conversion for sandbagging the venerable
Tamiya M4A3, including a complete resin
T23 turret. When the Spanish modelling
web page Panzernet.com proposed a
Sherman group build some months ago, I
had the perfect excuse to start yet another
Sherman, a classic Frankensherman as
we will see later. Besides, this time I also
wanted to replicate the gypsy caravan
look of some M4s, loaded with assorted
stowage, a look that, I think, would fit well in
a little scene I had in mind.
The Legend set is OK, with a reasonable fit
to the base kit and nice detail in the turret,
especially the commanders hatch.
However, the Tamiya kit itself was released
in the early 80s and it shows. Simply not
up to current standards and thus some
work was needed to improve what could be
seen of the Tamiya model, which, happily,
would not be a lot. Fortunately, as a
self-confessed Shermanaholic, my spare
parts box was well stocked with many bits
that found their way to this project. The
bogies came from Dragon, with the
upswept return rollers, detailed with Lion
Marc brass bolts (ref. LM60005). Two types
of wheels were used for variety. The solid
spoked ones came from Academy, while
the resin, dished wheels, are from Trakz (ref
TKZ0045) and they show the rubber
distressed. In my opinion, this effect is
overdone so I fill most of the crevices with
putty. The sprockets were also from
Dragon, while the idlers came from Tasca.
The T54E1 tracks are from Model Kasten
(ref. SK45), and a real pain to build. Each
links is composed of eight parts, some of
them really tiny. The final result is great,
agreed, but I think that the time and effort
involved on the task of building is not worth
it, and several times I was tempted to
throw the half-built tracks out of the
window! I also added the duckbills from
some AFV Club Sherman track sets that I
had as leftovers, leaving some links with no
duckbills as seen in wartime photos.
28
As I said before, I wanted a particular look
to my Sherman, I put special care into a lot
of stuff carried on the engine deck. Again,
rummaging around my spares box, I found
some rolls and packs from Legend, Blast
and Black Dog that fitted rather
conveniently with minor modifications. To
integrate them more convincingly, I added
more rolls and tarpaulins made of epoxy
putty (green in the photos). More stowage
was added like some bags from Tamiya, a
bottle crate and a bucket from Plus Models
and finally, as a personal touch, a baseball
bat that I carved out of a toothpick.
The turret is a solid chunk of resin, with the
mantlet, Commanders cupola, hatches
and side racks for the sandbags as
separate pieces. Again the fit of these is
satisfactory after several careful sanding
and dry fit tests. I chose to show the
hatches closed, but small hollows are
provided, so I suppose you could
accommodate torso figures for the
commander and gunner. The gun barrel is
provided in resin too, but my sample was
warped. I decided it was not worth the
effort to fix it, since there are gorgeous
metal alternatives, such as the Lion Marc
M1A1C barrel (ref. 10039) which I used. The
Browning .50 heavy machine gun is in itself
a mix of several makers. The main body
and some of the PE is from Hauler (ref.
35023), the barrel, handles and some PE is
from RB models (ref. 35B13), some plastic
bits of the cradle and ammo came from
Tasca spares, and the changing barrel
handle was made with electric wire. An RB
barrel was also used for the glacis .30
machine gun (ref. 35B82).
There are three main resin parts in the
Legend set to wrap the hull with the
sandbags, two sides and the front, plus
some small rails to connect the main
parts. The addition of the main parts to the
hull needed careful checking and sanding
until a more or less acceptable fit was
achieved. The resin casting blocks were
somewhat heavy and difficult to remove
sometimes, so some plastic strip was
used to replace some damaged bits.
Some putty was necessary to hide the
joins of the rails of the sandbag rack. In
the frontal part, the upper row of bags sits
too high and would make it impossible for
the driver and radio-operator to see
anything through the periscopes. I only
realized this once the resin parts were
already glued to the plastic hull, so I
removed these bags with a mini drill at
this point.
The elimination of the sandbags, was less
painful than I had expected, but I could not
avoid some damage to the gun barrel
support which was underneath, so I put a
fragment of a camo net (Verlinden) there,
to hide the mess.
I added the weld seams on the upper hull
where they are not hidden by the
sandbags. I did this with a strip of
stretched sprue glued and softened with
liquid glue, and then textured with the
knife. I also added the engine hatches
stoppers with a couple of plastic strips,
and some handles in the engine deck. The
photo etched bits are from the Aber set for
the M4A3 (ref. 35032). The tools are from
Dragon and the jerrycans from Italeri. The
rear exhaust deflector walls were thinned
with a knife to give the correct look of thin
metal sheet.
The next step consisted of the application
of some filters of green for light green (ref.
P244) and brown for dark green (ref.
P245), both from Sin/Mig Productions. I
applied three or four of each, with the aim
to integrate the markings, the different
shades of the base coat and also to add
depth to the model.
Then I painted the sandbags. For this task I
used two Vallejo acrylic colours: English
Uniform (921) from their Model Colour
Range and Canvas (314) form their Panzer
Aces series. My idea was to achieve tonal
variations in the bags to avoid monotony,
so random mixtures of the two above
colour were used for individual bags. A
small amount of Tamiyas XF21 flat base
was added to the Vallejo mix to ensure a
dead flat finish like that of hessian or other
rough fabric. For the black camouflage
broad stripes I used Tamiya XF69 NATO
Black, which is not a pure black but has a
greenish tint that I thought would blend
better with the green base. As in the real
tanks, the camouflage colour was
oversprayed on the bags.
29
Painting the Sherman
Looking at the unpainted model it is
apparent that not much of the bodywork of
the tank remains visible with all the
sandbags and stuff on the deck. Thus, in
my opinion the painting posed the
additional challenge to differentiate
between the metal and fabric textures. The
model was divided into typical
subassemblies (hull, bogies, tracks,
turret) and the equipment was painted
separately, so this was not a problem. I
started by priming the model with an
overall coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 diluted in
Gaianotes lacquer thinner. This is quite
convenient in order to unify the different
materials present in the kit and to obtaining
a good surface in which the paint settles,
especially for the metal parts.
Then, I started painting with a base coat of
Tamiya acrylic XF62 olive drab, followed by
some highlights using this shade lightened
with XF21 sky, and a second phase with an
even lighter mixture mainly on the
horizontal surfaces and the upper portions.
On the real 14th AD sandbagged
Shermans, most of the markings were
hidden by the bags and the tactical codes
were painted on the gun barrel. These are
the only markings on my model, and for
these I used a generic decal sheet provided
by Dragon in its recent Sherman kits. I
marked my Sherman as the sixth tank of
the C Company of the 47th Tank Battalion,
one of the three armoured battalions of the
14th AD. The decals are of excellent quality
and were fixed with the help of the Microset
and Microsol decal setting solutions.
30
The weathering continued with the
use of multicolour oil washes in the
steely areas. I chose several tones
from the 502 Abteilung/MING
Productions range, green, grey and
white, plus an ochre tone from the
local brand Titan. I added them
randomly in the form of spots on the
model surfaces previously wetted
with clean thinner, and blending
them with the brush moistened in
more clean thinner. In this way you
get some subtle tonal variations and
a nice fading effect in the base paint.
Several kinds of chipped and
scratched paint were simulated in
this model. Firstly, I made green
chips in the black camouflaged
zones, trying to simulate the
damage of this upper coat.
Secondly, I used a lighter green than
the base colour to represent
superficial scratches in the original
olive drab, and finally darker ones
with a mixture of black and dark
brown to simulate deeper chips.
I used a small, sharp brush, and as a
rule of thumb, I always keep the
chipping small and placed in
sensible areas. I prefer to paint the
chips after the oils washes, because
sometimes these can soften or even
hide all the previous effects. For the
weathering of the sandbags I chose
to use acrylic paints, mainly because
I wanted to keep them as matt as
possible. With this in mind, I used
several earth and ochre tones form
the Vallejo Model Colour range, and
diluted them heavily with water. Also,
I added a touch of Tamiya flat base
X21 to each colour to ensure a flat
finish. With these dilute colours, I
drew irregular, random spots on the
bags. Since the paint was heavily
diluted, the effect is not immediately
apparent, but by repetition, the bags
acquired a random worn off look with
plenty of nuances. This acrylic
mapping was also done in the steely
areas, adding some orange and
green to the colour palette.
In order to enhance the volumes of the
model and emphasise the details, it is
usual to darken any recesses and crevices.
The usual way to do this consists of the
application of dark washes with enamel
thinner based diluted paint. Due to the
properties of this thinner, the diluted dark
paint flows around the details and along the
crevices and recesses simulating shadows
and making these details stand out. I used
this well proven technique in the steely
parts of the model, using the ready to use
Dark Wash from MIG Productions (ref
P220). It is advisable to wet the surfaces
with clean thinner before the application of
the dark wash and to wipe out the excess
with more clean thinner in order not to
darken the flat surfaces of the model. This
procedure works very well, but in my
opinion the use of enamel or oil washes
could give a satin look to the surfaces
which is excellent for metallic parts. In my
obsession to replicate the flat finish of the
hessian fabric of the sandbags, I chose a
different approach in this area. Figure
painters, who deal with fabric painting,
sometimes make a profiling with diluted
black acrylic paint and a very sharp brush.
The use of acrylics, with again a flat base,
ensures the matt finish required for
clothing. Thus, I performed something
similar on the sandbags, profiling the
separation between them and with the
metal rails.
31
The dirtying job was done mainly with
Dark Mud (P033) and Europe Dust
(P028) pigments from MIG
Productions, mixed with fixer or Dark
Mud (AK023) or Fresh Mud (AK016)
from AK Interactive. The idea is to
obtain a variety of effects, from wet to
dryer mud and packed earth, in an
effort to achieve a more or less
random look. For this reason, all the
mixtures were done in variable
proportion, and applied randomly too.
For the lower portion of the tank I tried
to replicate a greater feeling of
wetness and thus I used darkish
tones. Once dry, the area was given
small touches of dry pigment applied
with a small brush. Some rain streak
stains were done with the MIG
Productions or AK Interactives
specific products for this purpose,
allowing them to soak the pigments.
Different degrees of intensity can be
achieved by varying the amount of the
products or by the repetition of their
application in one specific area.
The tracks were also put in place at
this point. The track assembly was
really tedious and the final result quite
fragile, so in the process of painting
them some breakages happened,
testing again my mental stability!
The tracks were firstly painted in Tamiya black XF1 and
then were soaked with a suspension of Dark Mud
pigment in water. Touches of more Dark Mud and
Europe Dust pigment were applied when dry, and the
tracks were drybrushed with a mix of black and silver
(Vallejo Model Colour). Then they were treated with
more pigments, in a similar way to the bogies and
running gear. The cleaner patch caused by the contact
of the rubber on the wheels was simulated with black
pigment. Once in place, the tracks were further treated
with pigments, made wet stains and finally rubbed with
a soft lead pencil to recreate the metallic shine.
Before I continued with the dirtying, I put all the clutter
on the tank. Most of this stuff is made of fabric so I
painting this using the same approach as used for the
figure uniforms. I used Vallejo acrylics with highlights
and shadows applied as heavy diluted glazes, following
the light from above philosophy nowadays used by
figure painters, rounded off with a profiling with diluted
black paint similar to the one described above for the
sandbags. Finally, I added some narrow plastic tape
(cut form insulating tape), to simulate the straps that
should keep the whole lot together.
To finish the dirtying job in the upper portions of the
hull and turret I used mostly dry pigments. With a
small brush, the pigments were accumulated in
corners and horizontal surfaces, and a general layer
in sensitive areas. Some grease and oil stains were
simulated on the engine deck and around the fuel
intakes, in different degrees of intensity/dilution, with
a mixture of thinner, wet effects and oil and grease
liquids from MING Productions or AK Interactive.
The final touch was the addition of small footprints
made with the Calibre35 rubber stamps soaked in
mud or grease. The model was ready to be
placed on its scenic base, where some minor final
touches were performed and described later.
32
33
Scenic Setting
The ground is very simple and is only
intended to provide a convincing base for the
tank and figures. I wanted to give a hint of a
somewhat wooded area by littering the soil
with leaves. The base itself is a rectangular
piece of insulating foam which I cut into the
suitable size and edged with wooden strips. I
glued a mixture of sand, smashed chalk and
small pebbles onto the surface. Once dry I
painted the ground with earthy colours and,
specifically the stones, with a lighter greyish
colour. After a diluted wash of a dark brown
colour, the ground was ready to receive the
vegetation. This was done with elements
taken from several sources: suitable natural
herbs and twigs, commercial foliage (railway
model) and mainly leaves. The bulk of these
are birch tree seed pods which I collected.
Scattered with them are several gorgeous
Plus Models laser cut paper leaves. All the
leaves were carefully glued, covering most of
the ground. Some of them were randomly
touched with some diluted shades of green,
ochre, orange or even red in an attempt to
avoid monotony.
The Sherman and figures were then added.
and to get a convincing and realistic sit of the
tracks on the ground, more leaves were
glued around them trying to hide any visible
gap. This was also done around the figures
feet. At the last moment I decided to add a
new element that enhances the idea of the
hoarder crew trying to add even more stuff
to their tank. This element was a wooden
wheelbarrow from Historex and its load, for
this I had experimented with a new AK
interactive heavy chipping fluid which works
as a sort of hair spray technique for small
items or surfaces. The wheelbarrow received
some oil washes in order make it to look
more aged, and received a load of a couple
of card boxes, an engine oil tin and a stove,
all of them from the Plus Models range.
Conclusion
I have built several Shermans in the last few
years and all of them are different. For those
who think that the M4 family is boring, just
have a look at the variety of marks, variants
and different front made amendments you
can see in wartime photographs and you will
find inspirational stuff to be busy for a long
time. As I said before, a sandbagged
Sherman is one of these variants I had in
mind for some time, and Pattons chewing
out was just the perfect excuse to create a
little scene to put the model in its context.
Figures
There are several alternatives on
the market for a figure
representing General Patton in
1:35, and all of them are hard to
find nowadays. I chose the one
from the defunct (I believe)
Legends and Lore (ref 071)
because the clothes fitted the
idea I had in mind. This figure
shows Patton clad in his famous
sheepskin jacket and sporting his
two ivory handled pistols. These
garments are actually preserved
in the General Patton Museum of
Leadership, in Fort Knox (USA),
and photographs of them can be
seen on the webpage
(www.generalpatton.org). The
figure is ok, but my figures face
suffers from some sort of
distortion and lacks some of the
fine detail.
This figure makes it look like
Patton is directing the traffic and I
found that by replacing the hands
with some suitable Hornet
alternatives, our General acquired
a much more menacing look that
perfectly fitted the scene I was
after.
The officer with General Patton is
from the Hungarian brand The
Bodi (ref 35020) and was used
straight from the box with the
change of his right hand. Finally,
the unhappy tank crewmen are
from Alpine Miniatures (ref
35116), a gorgeous couple of
figures.
All the figures were painted with
acrylic Vallejo paints, from their
Model Colour and Panzer Aces
range, with the light from above
concept in mind.
34
Morris
ARMOURED CAR
C9
DAVID PARKER BUILDS THE RESICAST KIT
Quirky!
The Morris C9 is one of those quintessentially quirky
British vehicles which looks like it was designed by
committee and has all the aggressive
purposefulness of London taxi. The vehicle was
designed around a Morris Commercial C9 4x2 15-
cwt truck chassis and entered service in 1938.
Lightly armed with a Boys anti-tank rifle and Bren
gun or Vickers machine gun, the C9 saw action with
the 12th Royal Lancers as part of the BEF in France
where all the vehicles were lost. It was also
employed in the North African campaign with the
11th Hussars and fitted with Sand tires. However
the thin armour of the C9 proved increasingly
inadequate and the C9 was phased out before the
end of the North African campaign.
35
Quirky subjects are exactly what Resicast does
superbly and they have provided the only 1:35 kit of
the Morris C9. This multimedia resin kit provides you
with a choice of two patterns of wheels to model
either a BEF or North African vehicle along with a
decal sheet and photoetched details. With those big
fat desert tires the C9 does have a certain look
about it so I chose to model a North African vehicle.
36
C9
CONSTRUCTION
Construction
The assembly of the chassis and the interior
is extremely straight forward with no
problems. The photographic instruction
sheet is there to guide you and also to
highlight any areas where special care is
required. The interior with its comfortable-
looking chairs is well detailed and doesnt
really need any additional detail except
perhaps for some stowage in the storage
bins. It only requires painting and I went for
a pale green interior over the silver finish
normally applied to British tanks although
the exact colours used on the Morris are
open to debate.
With the interior painted the body shell
could be fitted and glued. One modification
I made was to cut away the lip around the
rear piece of chassis that extends outside
the body. I did this is make fitting and
aligning the rear stowage lockers easier.
The remainder of the assembly was straight forward
and my only addition was some power cables for
the headlamps!
I used Archer Fine Transfers instrument dials for the
Austin Tilly to furnish the instrument panel and a large
dose of guesswork to paint the radio sets.
37
To make painting easier I did not fit the
wheels at this stage or the doors, weapons
and tools. The Caunter scheme is always a
contentious issue for modellers but I found
some good period colour photos of British
trucks captured by the Germans which
showed the grey tones clearly and I was
able to adjust my colour mixes to replicate
these. The other markings on my model are
an amalgamation of markings from several
vehicles. I really liked the red/white/red
flashes on the doors and nose so I
borrowed these along with the S marking
from a photo in David Fletchers book
Tanks in Camera.
PAINTING
Selected articles now give you
access to a full 360 interactive
view of the model simply visit
www.afvmodeller.com/digital to
access the 360 Portal, select the
appropriate article and enter the
Username and Pass Code shown
on the right...
You can use your PC/Mac to view
the featured model from all round,
just keep an eye out for the 360
symbol in future issues!
Username: AFV
Pass Code: 58642
1 2
5
6
7
8
3 4
I had a plan to use the hairspray technique to create a worn desert scheme so
I began by spraying a base coat of dark green. Note that the wheels, tools and
other delicate details have not yet been fitted. As it turned out the hairspray
technique did not work as planned.
More dust colours were airbrushed into areas where dust would collect using
paper masks for hard edges where required.
Here is the model after the dust has been sprayed.
The other side of the Morris at the same stage with everything looking good
and dusty. Note the build up of dust on the flat surfaces like the hull roof.
Time now to add areas where the top paint has been worn and exposed the
base green colour. Drybrushing is perfect for this and works well with small
chips. Doors and the edges of panels were treated like this.
The Caunter scheme was a really demanding one to mask and I used the
Lifecolor Middle East British vehicle camouflage set for this. Comparing these
with some archive colour pictures of the real scheme I decided that the two
greys needed adjusting.
I mixed two new tones for the greys using Lifecolor paints and brush painted
the new colours - so much easier than masking everything again. I was much
happier with these and I applied the red and white flashes using a slightly
terracotta shade of red.
Oil and acrylic washes were applied to give the ingrained dust build up around
the raised details. The colours are also dragged down the hull to give a rain
streaked effect.
38
39
9 10
12
11
13
Here the edges of the panels on the bonnet are drybrushed along with some of
the rivet detail.
Working again from the picture in David Fletchers book I added some
stowage with Resicast ammunition boxes and various bags and tarps made
from Magic Sculp.
On the rear deck I used temporary aluminium straps to secure the rolled
tarpaulin on top of the ammunition box.
Wheels are painted in a similar style with a suitably dusty look to the tires and
touches of green paint showing through the rims. With the wheels mounted at
last it was time to look at some stowage.
The same effects can be seen here on the back of the vehicle.
40
14
The tools were painted and fitted into the roof racks.
A dusting of pigments was applied to the stowage to blend
it in with the rest of the vehicle and to give that ingrained
dust look.
16
The stowage was painted with a selection of different acrylic
colours and was then shaded for a more natural looking finish.
15
C9
41
I made a simple desert base from expanded polystyrene sheets
edged with black card with a few contours in the sand to set off the
dusty Morris. The pair of figures are also produced by Resicast and
are based on archive pictures of the crew of a C9 standing next to
their vehicle. The relaxed style of dress is typical and they really do
compliment the vehicle. I painted them using Lifecolor acrylics and I
deliberately used different tones for the individual items of uniform to
enhance the more relaxed dress code. I added a cigarette from wire
to the leaning figure and I used wire pins glued into the feet of the
figures to help glue them in position. The final touches were to add
lenses to the mudguard lamps using lenses from the Resicast range
and the antenna. I made the pennants from paper which is easily
crumpled to give a feeling of movement.
Another cracking subject choice and kit from Resicast
who continue to supply the requirements of the Allied
armour fan expertly. No problems here just build and
enjoy which is exactly as it should be. Our thanks to
Graham from Resicast for supplying the kit and full
details of this and the rest of the Resicast range can be
found at: www.resicast.com
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TAM35328 1/35 Israeli Tank Tiran 5 by Tamiya
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Humbrol have produced some sets of
natural and synthetic bristled brushes
bundled into various sized packs of
four, the best quality and best suited to
our painting needs are the synthetic
'Detail Brushes' with a nice ergonomic
handle which appear to hold a good
point. Humbrol thinners have been a
favourite for many years, this new large
125ml jar is for thinning their acrylics
and cleaning up. Humbrol products are
available at most hobby and model
retailers.
Humbrol
KEEPING TRACK
new releases
44
Live Resin offer the modeller of modern U.S. subjects the ultimate
addition to their range of incredibly detailed accessories, full
figures! The process Live Resin use to create their award-winning
resin parts utilises the latest in CAD technology, not initially what
you'd think would work to produce natural forms, but ideal for
these futuristic armour-clad subjects. The packaging lists every
item of featured equipment but would fill the rest of this page,
suffice to say these guys sport all the latest gear from head to toe
with staggering detail cast with the ultimate finesse. LRM-35001
and LRM-35002 are essentially the same figure with differing
equipment options (visually the covered helmet of 35001 is the
main difference) both would work equally as well with LRM-35003
as a pairing with the poses ready for action. The figures can be
complemented further with the other items in the range,
www.live-resin.com is a must-visit website if modern U.S. subjects
are your thing. Without doubt THE most detailed 1:35 figures we
have seen and as you can see in our pictures the quality speaks
for itself - highly recommended.
Live Resin 1:35 Modern U.S. Army figures
True Earth are an Italian manufacturer who produce a wide variety
of finishing products to achieve weathering and specific effects.
The ones I've used in the past perform well and unlike most other
weathering products are acrylic / water based and odourless. In
this new set we're provided with five 17ml bottles and one 26ml to
achieve the effects of burning or discolouration through heat. An
excellent step-by-step pictorial guide is supplied with the very
impressive results displayed. I gave the process a very quick (15
minutes) try myself, first a 'Burnt Primer' colour is applied followed
by the two rust shades then 'Burnt Metal' which is an excellent fine
metallic glaze, and 'Burnt Smoke'. A final touch is to add 'Burnt
Ash'. All of the colours are best described as glazes giving great
control of the colour build-up but does require multiple layers and
don't be afraid to flood the colour on and a hair dryer or empty
airbrush will help speed the drying. Working from some reference
and spending more time will, I'm sure, give excellent realistic
results. These colours can appear a little 'slimy' when you first try
them but it doesn't take long to get used to the way they act.
More details of these and the rest of the True-Earth range can be
found at www. true-earth.com
True-Earth 'Burnt Out Pack' paint effects set
45
Revell 1:72 Strv 122A/122B (Swedish Leopard 2)
Utilising their very nice previous A6 kit Revell have included new
parts to produce the super slick-looking Swedish Leopard 2.
Revell's recently tooled small scale releases have gained a
reputation for quality at a reasonable price, great for a new starter
to the hobby but also the detail and finesse to keep the more
experienced and demanding modellers happy. With a parts count
close to a comparable 1:35 kit the detail is excellent, although a
lighter coloured plastic would be my preference to show this off
prior to painting. In the dark green styrene is a large new sprue
containing the turret, extra armour and even a full rear panel (with
it's subtle differences to the German version). The shorter barrel as
per the A5, is supplied on a smaller sprue along with the grenade
launchers. I think I'm correct in saying that the Spanish and Greek
Leopards are based on this version albeit with the longer L55 gun;
maybe Revell will release these versions, if not an easy conversion
which won't break the bank. The Swedish splinter pattern camo
will be a challenge in this small scale but looks superb, two sets of
markings are included. A lovely little kit of arguably the best
looking Leopard. We would love a 1:35 version too please Revell!
Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model
retailers. For further information visit www.revell.eu or email
ukbranch@revell.de
Yes another Dragon Panzer III, but personally the early G is my
favourite with it's narrow tracks and stylish sprockets and idlers.
Added to this is the (slightly!) more purposeful 5cm cannon with
the 3.7 also still present from the 'F' kit released last year along
with many other parts. Every time we take a look at these DML
Panzer IIIs it's hard to know where to start describing how good
they are, the detail is staggering throughout from the delicately
detailed individual (and de-sprued) magic track to the multi-part
cupola (both early and later in this kit with call-outs for which
choice of markings suit which) with full internal detail. More
internal detail is included with the turret, vision blocks and gun
breech will be clearly seen through the open hatches. Dragon's
moulding is amongst the best in the business, always helped by
the matt grey styrene which shows the superb finesse at it's best.
Marking and colour options are the only disappointment if you find
dunkelgrau a little bland, five variations are offered on the decal
sheet. DML instructions are renowned for their flaws and it's hard
to comment without actually completing a build, let's presume
careful study and familiarisation are still the order of the day!
These Panzer IIIs must rate as some of their best ever releases,
keeping even the fussiest modeller very satisfied with what's
supplied in the box- you just can't help finding things that impress.
Fantastic.
Dragon Pz.Kpfw. III (5cm) G Early Production
new releases
46
What a superb little kit! As soon as you pop the lid on this and see
the excellent upper and lower hull mouldings you can see that this
is a real cracker! Packed with raised rivet detail and sharp panel
lines, this will be a delight to paint. For such a small vehicle there
is plenty in the box and the kit comes with a photoetched fret and
superb DS Styrene tracks with hollow guide horns. Roadwheels
have a clever spacer to join them and photoetched rings for the
hubs. All the hull and turret hatches are moulded separately and
the open louvres on the engine covers are excellent. Also
noteworthy are the superb machine gun mouldings and the
choice of open or closed drivers vision port. separately moulded
track guards are another superbly moulded feature and allow the
modeller greater flexibility. The turret is provided with a well
detailed gun mount and breech along with gun sight and shell
case catcher. Its more than enough to allow you to leave the turret
hatch open should you wish. A clear sprue is included for vision
blocks and lamp lenses and photoetched mesh for the exhausts is
provided. There is a choice of markings for four different vehicles
on the small decal sheet. Great to see some other WWII subjects
being tackled and with such skill and finesse too - high quality all
the way from Dragon.
Dragon 1:35 Type 95 Light Tank Ha Go Early Production
As with their Panzer IIIs you think Dragon have all bases covered
with Shermans, but here's another variant available, the British
early 'direct vision' M4. I'm working on a Sherman project at the
moment using mostly Dragon parts and much of the contents of
the box have been seen before, a mix of new and older part
sprues along with some brand new components combine to
produce this variant. The moulding is clean and crisp, shown at it's
best with the new upper hull, pleasing interlocks with accurate
angles and weld beads is a nice base to build on. An early low
bustle turret gets a two piece British stowage bin and an option of
MG mounts, slide moulding technology offering features such as
single piece main gun and intricate detail and textures. Another
new feature is the three piece transmission cover which is much
better than previous offerings and an option of a well detailed
single piece cover is still included. I'm a fan of Dragon's DS
Sherman track as it captures the 'live' track look, just the job for
the T-41 tracks and less tedious than assembling individual links.
A comprehensive etched brass sheet includes unique details such
as full sand skirts and a petrol can rack. To finish we've the usual
clear sprue of lamps and vision blocks and five decal marking
options of Italy, Sicily and Tunisia including the handsome turret
top and engine deck British roundels, ding-dong! Another nice
Dragon Sherman. Thanks to The UK importers The Hobby
Company for our Dragon (and Tamiya) samples.
Dragon 1:35 Sherman III DV Early
47
Very much the most attractive looking of the BT series in my view,
the 1937 model with its sloped uparmoured turret was perhaps an
inevitable release from Tamiya but you never can be certain!
Happily Tamiya have added the 1937 to their previous releases
and as soon as I popped open the bag with the new turret sprue I
found myself exclaiming at the quality of the parts with the
delicate lip around the edge of the turret roof and the breech for
the 45mm gun. On the same sprue are a new pair of figures as
depicted on the box art and I have to say that these look a cut
above the regular Tamiya figures too. The new turret comes with a
detailed co-ax MG, gun sight, breech and crew seats and of
course separate hatches and periscope covers. The hull is largely
unchanged from the previous versions and features the same high
quality link and length tracks and late style drive wheels. For those
unfamiliar with the earlier kits the hull is assembled from flat
plates but Tamiya precision engineering makes this a painless and
error-free procedure. The kit retains the excellent photoetched fret
with the grilles and screens for the engine decks and the excellent
tow chain is provided. A small clear sprue includes headlamp
lenses and vision blocks. Markings for three vehicles are supplied,
two Russian and one captured example in German markings.
Another great Tamiya release and one that really can be built
straight from the box with great results. Top marks!
Tamiya 1:35 BT-7 Model 1937
new releases
48
Mirror Models are a relatively new name in the kit business and
with the interesting subjects being covered we were keen to see
how they shape up in todays competitive market. The first box to
tick is as always the subject matter; the best kit in the World of an
uninteresting or way-out subject just won't cut it with the choice
available these days, Mirror Models are certainly tapping into a
niche market with a range of Commonwealth (and a couple of
Soviet) vehicles with terrific appeal to the modeller. My
understanding is that the recently released kits are more build-
friendly, while still being multi-media the majority of parts are
injection moulded on sprues as per mainstream kits. I have to
admit (with my grown-up designer's head on) the box art didn't
impress me, but on reflection (sorry, couldn't resist it) it is a very
good indication of the type of kits these are falling somewhere in
between a cottage-industry resin production and a styrene kit
from one of the larger manufacturers. On opening the stout carton
we're greeted with a busy collection of grey sprues, resin wheels
(and some smaller complex details) photoetched frets, a suitable
selection of wire and rod (should you wish to add pipes, steering
arms etc) and decals. The first scan of the sprues is promising,
sharp detail, no flash and a reasonable lack of ejector pin marks.
The resin parts are also very nice as is the photoetch- I certainly
think you'd feel you'd got very good value for money as these kits
are reasonably priced. Instructions are rather 'home made' in
appearance but as you work through them have a nice feel with
helpful notes spoken modeller to modeller with clear
photographs. To get a true feel for these kits we felt it only fair to
assemble some of the bigger chunks and I'm happy to say the fit
is very good- the multi-panelled body far better than expected (Mr
Cement 'Thin' is the fella for the job here) but I found it easier to
remove the locating pips and use the points as visual reference.
The complex chassis assembles nice and true without much
effort. If you use all of the resin and photoetch provided you'll
produce a highly detailed chassis and engine from the box which
also extends to the interior and tiny details such as window
latches. These kits are for the modeller with some experience and
are obviously aimed at the serious end of the market, they won't
fall together like a Tamiya kit over a couple of evenings but with
some time and effort you'll have some very satisfying results and
everything is there in the box. I think a better visual appeal of the
box and instructions would help these kits get noticed by a wider
market Great to see a new manufacturer offering new subjects
which may only in the past been available as more expensive
resin kits. Thanks to Mirror Models for the samples, www.mirror-
models.com and their Facebook page will keep you up to date
with their exciting releases planned. Highly recommended.
Mirror Models 1:35 CMP C15TA Armoured Ambulance
Always reliable for an easy touch of finesse, Archer have some
new releases to add to their extensive catalogue. Starting with
what theyre known for best, dry rub-down ransfers AR35376
provides four instument panels for the dashboard of Tamiyas
Citron in 1:35 and staying with Tamiya AR35377 provides
dashboard instuments for the new Simca and also fits AFV Clubs
Bussing Nag. Three sets are included.Weld beads of a very fine
nature are hard to reproduce, this set AR88090 is Archers fine
resin relief detail on clear water-slide backing which are applied
as regular decals but before painting. More water-slide sheets
which will be welcomed by German armour fans are AR77022 and
AR77023 under the AFT brand, The beautifuly fine stencils are for
88mm and 75mm ammo respectively. Comprehensive colour
instuctions are included to apply the correct markings to the
projectiles, cartridges and rims. Top quality as always from Archer
who have detailed application instuctions on their website along
with the vast range of markings and detail accessories.
www.archertransfers.com
Archer Fine Transfers
49
Mirror Models 1:35 CMP MkI Otter Recce Car
Based on the same CMP chassis as the armoured ambulance,
the Otter armoured car is a quirky design so typical of the era and
built by General Motors Canada was used by both British and
Canadian forces throughout WWII. The body obviously differs from
the ambulance and follows the same multi-plate principle with
hopefully the same satisfying fit. The armour plate has a
pleasingly thin look to it which should give a nice scale look to it if
youre leaving doors and vision flaps open. A large number of
photoetched parts will add a nice delicate look, the largest of
these being the bonnet and Bren Gun turret shield which will
require annealing and careful rolling. Lots of interior detail is there
should you wish to complete it with a separate available etched
set available from Mirror Models parent company
www.Lzmodels.com to really go to town on the internal detail
along with full etched brass mudguards and other details.
High resolution image pdf files of assembly instructions are
available at www.mirror-models.com/otter_assembly.pdf which
would give a very good indication of how the kits go together
should you be tempted. Were keen to see more from Mirror
Models in future, Creative Models are a UK distributor and most
hobby retailers should be able to get hold of the range.
new releases
AK Interactive are expanding their range of
acrylic colours at a pace, available both
individually and in sets. The latest boxed set is
dedicated to vehicles operating in Iraq and
Afghanistan. The set contains a three tone
German camo, along with U.S., British and
Iraqi sand tones. These acrylics can be
brushed or airbrushed straight from the bottle
and colours have scale effect meaning they
are mixed to a lighter tone than the real paint
chip to give an effect more suited to scale
models. Another new range introduced are
eight coloured primers in larger 60ml bottles.
The paint is thin enough to spray but has a
high concentration of pigment providing good
coverage to key your top-coats to. The range
of colours will allow you to get close to your
final colour or provide a primer colour to reveal
when weathering. The colours are grey, dark
yellow, white, black, Russian Green, primer
red, desert sand and olive drab. AKI produce a
60ml thinner should you wish to thin their
acrylics further for very fine work, this appears
alcohol based and should help flow through
the airbrush better than thinning with water.
www.ak-interactive.com has full details of
these and the rest of the range.
AK Interactive
50
A steady flow of quality ad-ons from Hauler starting with their
favourite 1:48 scale. HLX48330 is a set of stand-off mesh armour
for Tamiya's JS-2 and for the same kit is HLX48331, some very
fine mesh for the rear deck intakes. Ace Model's 2cm Flak 38 gets
a full set of gun shields and extra detail with HLX48332 and an
exciting set of resin replacement wheels HLX48334 will certainly
boost the finesse of Italeri's Puma. HLX48333 is to fit Tamiya's
recent Mobelwagen with fine tool fittings, mudguards and fittings
for the shields. A mesh spent shell catcher is the only part
provided for the 3.7cm gun. Finally HLX48335 provide's the Airfix
Land Rover 'Snatch' a full set of protective mesh guards. In 1:35
Tamiya's bigger brother JS-2 gets the same two sets HLU35060
the engine deck mesh and HLU35061 the stand-off armour, and
staying with Tamiya the diminutive Simca 5 gets a usable set of
detail enhancements. www.hauler.cz will give you all the range
and more details.
Hauler Accessories
Another volume in the Panzer Vor! series brings together a very
diverse collection of German Armour photographs spanning the
whole of WWII. Starting with armoured car variants and light
panzers which are briefly covered, theres an excellent selection of
Panzer IIIs and IVs to follow which make up a large portion of the
book. A good selection of S.P. guns are presented and eight
pages of full colour profiles show a mix of the vehicles featured in
the black and white images. Another large portion is devoted to
semi-tracks, both artillery tractors and mounted with flak guns
with some great reference and inspiration to start yet another new
project! There are some images were familiar with but many are
new providing something for the avid photo collector and also
excellent inexpensive general reference for the more casual book
buyer. All of the photographs are accompanied with detailed and
well researched captions. Recommended reading, www.concord-
publications.com has details of other titles and news, thanks to
Casemate the UK distributer for our copy
www.casematepublishing.co.uk
Panzer Vor! 7
Frank V.De Sisto
Published by Concordl Publications
Softback, portrait format, 72 pages
ISBN 9789623611794
51
Sovereign 2000 figures and updates
A little like meeting up with some old 1:35 friends now with these
very familiar looking figures. S2K are now producing figures from
the old 'Wolf' range of popular subjects all nicely cast in pale
cream resin. S2KW019 is a pair of figures nicely moulded as a
single piece depicting a medic and German panzer crewman,
SKW is a mid-late WWII German tanker in winter gear complete
with cap-flaps down and pipe in hand, S2KW021 is an early-war
panzer officer and S2KW022 is the old favourite late WWII tanker
hand in pocket holding his jacket with the other. Still on the
German theme is S2KA015 to update SdKfz 223s (presumably
with the Hobby Boss kit in mind due to the interior parts included)
Along with the wealth of interior detail upgrades are some major
suspension parts including a nice set of wheels complete with
covered spare. Assembly instructions are decent and the set will
provide some worthwhile enhancements.
www.sovereign2000.uk.com has more details and on-line
shopping.
new releases
Diamond T 4-Ton Truck
David Doyle
Published by Squadron Signal Publications
Softback, landscape format, 80 pages
ISBN 978-0-89747-710-9
More of the same highly useable information for modellers with
the Walk Around format on the big Diamond T. A very timely
release as we're soon to be offered an injection moulded kit from
Mirror Models of the excellent wrecker version in 1:35 (and other
available resin kits on the market). Other versions of the 4-tonner
are covered featuring fantastically preserved and restored trucks
in both the hard and open-cabbed guises with overall views and
close-up details presented as clear, large format colour
photographs with extensive captions. Chassis components
receive good coverage as do items such as winches and the
crane fitted to wrecker vehicles getting particularly good
coverage. Nice additions to any project would be additional cab
interior detail and instruction / information plates which are all
shown in close-up. Another great concise reference as we've
come to expect from Squadron Signal over the years,
recommended reading.
Polish Tracks and Wheels No.3,
Polish Vickers Pt.2
Adam Joca
Published by Mushroom Model Publications
Softback, portrait format, 88 pages
www.mmpbooks.biz
ISBN 978-83-61421-50-4
This is the third part of Mushroom Model's focus on the Polish
tanks of British origin, the Vickers-Armstrong designs, many of
which were still in service when the Germans invaded in 1939.
The vehicles showcased are the Medium Mk.D six ton, the
Vickers-Carden-Lloyd VI artillery tractor, 4 ton light tank 7TP and
the Vickers-7TP reinforced 7TP. As we'd want from a modelling
reference the pages are filled with photographs ranging from
'official' type archive shots to troops' private pictures taken in the
field, many of which are from German sources of knocked out and
abandoned vehicles which would make great vignettes. The
photos are backed-up with just enough text to ensure an
enjoyable and informative read without getting bogged-down with
too much detail. We're also presented with colour profiles of some
excellent looking camouflage finishes and colour illustrations of
battalion formations and insignia. The usual concise reference
offered by MMP offering great value for money for any fan of
early-war armour.
52
M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer
David Doyle
Published by Squadron Signal Publications
Softback, landscape format, 80 pages
ISBN 978-0-89747-698-0
Tank Art 1
WWII German Armor
Mike Rinaldi
Published by Rinaldi Studio Press
Softback format, 206 pages
ISBN 978 0-9883363-1-5
Renowned American modeller Mike Rinaldi takes his first foray into
a self-published work with the first in his 'Tank Art' series. As the
title suggests, and as Mike introduces his drive behind the book,
there is a major emphasis on the finishing techniques the author
has mastered to produce beautiful armour models in a very
contemporary style. German armour being the subject of this
volume there's guidance to a wide variety of finishes from
dunkelgrau through to disc-patterned camo, DAK worn desert
colours and white-wash with a huge variety of weathering
techniques. Mike utilises the latest finishing products on the
market so most modellers should be able to get their hands them
to achieve the finishes demonstrated. There is a good balance
between text and photography, all of which is of a very high
standard and very explanatory in a step-by-step fashion. A final
chapter dedicated to figure painting strays somewhat from the
German WWII theme but being written and presented by the
superb modeller Marijn Van Gils this can be excused. An
altogether top-quality production which bodes well for the rest of
the series. www.rinaldistudiopress.com will help you get your
hands on a copy.
Like an old friend with always the right reference on hand for that
latest project, Squadron Signal continue their 'Walk Around' format
of affordable visual modelling compendiums. The agile and sleek
M18 gets the treatment here with museum and privately owned
vehicles obviously chosen for their comprehensive restorations
and authenticity providing the photographs. The Walk Around
format is as usual very visual, the text being primarily detailed
photo captions with the majority of photographs in large format
colour, ideal modelling reference with production changes and
details flagged-up throughout. The M18 being an open-turreted
vehicle lends itself to some extra detailing internally and thankfully
we're well covered here with very thorough photographs of all
elements. Only the engine compartment is limited to several shots
through the access hatches, most visible external elements are
covered in great detail. An ideal helping hand if you want to get
the best from either AFV Club's or Academy's 1:35 kits, neither are
without their flaws.
53
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BRDM article (Q8):Layout 1 11/04/2013 10:48 Page 1
55
BRDM
2
ukasz Orczyc - Musiaeks 1:35 vignette
All modern military fans know the BRDM-2 - I am sure! For me she is one of
the most frequently seen army vehicles I saw when I was a child. Because I
was living next to a military base, I had the chance to watch them passing
just meters from my backyard. I was excited looking at the dark green
monsters slowly moving past. After 25 years I had the possibility to refresh
my memories and build the replica of this armoured car.
The Braonirowannaja
Razwiedywatielno-Dozornaja Maszyna
(literally Combat Reconnaissance -
Patrol Vehicle) is a Soviet vehicle
designed as a replacement for earlier
BRDM-1 with improved amphibious
capabilities and better armament. She
was first seen in public in 1966.
The BRDM-2 has a crew of four, a driver,
a co-driver, a commander, and a
gunner. The GAZ-41 gasoline V-8 engine
produces 140 hp which allows 100 km/h
on the road and 10 km/h in water. The
armament consists a 14.5 mm KPVT
heavy machine gun with a coaxial 7.62
mm PKT machine gun as a secondary
weapon, both mounted in a small turret.
Like many other Soviet designs, this
vehicle has been exported extensively
and is in use in at least 45 countries.
The BRDM-2 was modified very often to
bring it to new standards of the modern
battlefield, for example Polish bik,
Szakal or Serbian Kurjak.
SOME HISTORY
TRUMPETERS KIT
Trumpeters kit 05511 kit gives us
possibility to build an early version of this
vehicle. In the box we find 7 sprues (253
parts) moulded in light grey plastic the
same as the upper and lower hulls, the
clear sprue for the periscopes, a PE sheet,
four small and four large tyres, wire, rope,
poly-caps and a decals sheet.
I hate interiors! I spent several hours just to
say I did it! And only to take two pictures I
built it totally from the box, adding pin up girl
posters and playing cards as typical crew
stuff. Unfortunately the front windscreens are
too small to look inside and the only
possibility to see my work is by removing the
turret, but this is completely forbidden! The
fingerprints are an unwelcome proof of the
viewers crime!
When the interior was ready I started to work
with exterior elements. I built it following the
instruction guide building main elements.
Here and there I decided to add some
elements I found in the pictures. So the most
visible are railings on the turret and both
sides of the hull. Most likely they were fitted
on the original vehicle to make the covering of
foliage over the structure easier. With the
same material I built the ladder on the back
plate.
The kit is of a good standard, with good
moulding of the parts and the building is
easy even for a novice. The instructions
(with 14 stages) and painting guide are also
included. When the kit arrived on my
workbench, my first thought was not to
paint it overall green. I wanted to make
something more interesting so Google
became my friend again.
During the research for a nice and unique
camo I found a lot of pictures from different
parts of the world, where BRDM was
shown. I decided to focus on Soviet
variants as well as in painting and building.
But the question was Afghanistan or
Chechnya? The diversity of camo schemes
and the figures I planned to add led to my
choice. My plan was not to build a specific
vehicle but use the elements from different
BRDMs in my model.
I love kits with some jewellery so to this
end I bought a 14.5mm KPVT gun barrel
(35B21) and antennas mount (35A14) from
RB Model and new resin wheels from Tiger
Model (355001) - and the game began!
ON WITH THE BUILD...
56
The main addition to the kit were the
more accurate and detailed
replacement wheels from Tiger
Model. Paint also adheres better to
resin than the soft vinyl kit parts.
Using the copper wire and some old PE
parts I prepared the light guards and
shrouds. The tools (the pick and the axe)
come from my spares but Im sure they
are the left overs from different Dragon
sets. From Eureka XXL comes the towing
cable despite the fact that the kit provides
this part in my opinion the aftermarket
part is much better. I prepared little
holders for this but in the end they were
left empty and the cable went on the
other side of the vehicle. However, it was
a good decision to make them because
the ones from the kit were too big. New
holders appeared near the fuel cap
covers too. Using Milliput I sculpted new
weld lines around the side periscopes and
railings mentioned above. I would also
like to mention the thin wire I fastened on
the right and left sides. It was added after
the painting was done but there we have
the building section so a couple of words
about it. Assuming that the branches
should cover more than only upper hull I
used the 0.1 mm as good enough to
simulate the home made upgrade
prepared by the crew.
There was one thing left. As I said the
tires were replaced by a resin set from
Tiger Model. I did it because the rubber
tires in the kit box were deformed a little
and I wanted to avoid the situation when
after a couple of years they would crack.
Moreover, I was surprised when the
comparison was done the size and the
tire tread were different (resin tread was
more subtle and differed a little but it was
clearly visible when looking at both tires).
The size difference especially made me
worried as to how the resin would look
inside the mudguards. Luckily everything
was OK.
57
I usually prime my models with Vallejos Black Primer as a good
base for all next paint stages. I heard my friends complaining
about this paint but in my opinion it is very nice for airbrushing or
to apply with brush. To find suitable colours for camo scheme I
printed the resized picture of BRDM-2 from Chechnya War and
prepared the various green shade specimens. It was easier to
choose the best tone and my decision was to paint my kit with
Vallejo Model Colour 890 Reflective Green. I sprayed the whole
kit while the black and grey areas I covered using paintbrush
Black 950 and Black Grey 862 paints were used. The main
colours were drying and I started to paint the rest of the
elements:
tools Buff 976, Dark Flesh 927 (base colours) and German
Camo Black brown 822 (wash);
wheels - Grey Green 866 for tires (better than simply black);
railings - Natural Steel 864;
red star, shark mouth and slogan Flat Red 957, Black 950 and
White 951 ;
periscope glass Flat Blue 962 (base colour) and Dark Prussian
Blue 899;
front and rear lights Natural Steel 864 and Flat Red 957;
machine guns Black 950 (as a base for Gun Metal pigment).
I would like to explain the colourful additions. Firstly, the red
star on top of the hatch I decided to paint it to break the
dullness of the dark camo. It could be said that the crew painted
it as a kind of air recognition. In the first stages it was very light
and I was wondering how would it look after weathering.
Fortunately it unified with the background enough. Secondly, the
sharks mouth I love it! I saw similar painting on the WW2
vehicles, moreover looking at original pictures of BRDMs I
noticed that a lot of them were decorated with different strange
paintings and slogans so my sharks teeth are quite good in this
context. Third is the slogan which translated from Russian
means Peace for your home. I found it on the Russian missile
launcher painted with white paint with the sign. I thought it was
ironical and interesting enough to paint it on the front of the
vehicle.
To add more interest on the surfaces of the kit I decided to
prepare some light colour modulation. It was especially visible
on the small elements where I used lighter shade of paint. All
paint work was done so it was time to cover whole kit with glossy
varnish. After that I could applied the decals with car numbers I
left the original decals in the box and used Dragons numerals
from my spares. They were only outlined so I needed to fill them
with white paint. They were almost similar as the example in the
picture I used as a reference so I was glad my hand did not
shake too much while I was painting them!
ON WITH THE PAINT...
58
THE WEATHERING
I began this stage from Dark Wash applied with Thinner for
Washes from MIG Productions. The excess was lifted with
turpentine and cotton buds. Then the kit was ready for the next
step. The oil paints (Burnt Umber, Ceruleum and Yellow Ochre)
were wiped with wide brush moistened with turpentine. This gave
nice streaks and roughened all areas of the kit so the glossy finish
was not so conspicuous. Here and there, especially on the
horizontal surfaces, the filters were used to disrupt the surfaces
(Tan and Green).
Then the chipping for the first time I used 6 colours
to prepare the chips, Military Green 850, Black Grey
862, and Intermediate Blue 903.
All of them were enriched by and German Camo
Black brown 822, Natural Steel 864 and Mahogany
Brown 846 as a rust simulation. As a main tool I
worked with a sponge, some little bits were painted
with 5/0 brush and in the end a sharp pencil helped
to polish steel edges. It was a time-consuming
work but I was glad looking at the result. My kit
needed to be more rusted so I decided to use Burnt
Sienna to create more rusty scratches. I knew that
the sides of the hull would be covered by dust so I
did not worry about overdoing it.
During the work with chips I decided to add more
light to the vertical panels so again oil paints were
used. This time I used only yellows Yellow Ochre,
Gold Ochre and Raw Sienna. I spread them trying
not to destroy my previous work with rusty chips.
The kit had to dry completely before the next steps.
59
So after that I used USA Tan
Earth 874 to create a pre-dusting
coat for pigment application.
Before the dust was airbrushed, I
decided to add some rain marks.
With fine brush I painted vertical
lines simulating drops of water.
This came nicely with earlier
prepared oil streaks.
Lets make some mud! The mixture of brown MIG pigments was
strengthened by acrylic resin, plaster and a couple drops of gloss
varnish. This paste was applied with old brush to all the bottom
chassis surfaces, with particular emphasis on mudguards. It was left
to dry and at the same time the wheels got their share of mud and
dust. I applied Dry Mud to wheels and the Pigment Fixer helped to
hold the dust. To highlight the treads I rubbed them with my fingers
using Volcanic Sand. The effect was good enough. The same result
can be achieved by drybrushing them with some enamel or even oil
paints. Dry Mud pigment was also used to create the proper look of
the chain tied on the front of the vehicle. So to sum up 7 pigments
were used: Dry Mud, Volcanic Sand, Europe Dust, Dark Mud,
Industrial City Dirt, and Russian Earth. Near the shock absorbers
and different holes in the hull I applied Oil and Grease Stain Mixture.
It is almost invisible but You know what I mean
60
THE GROUNDWORK
To prepare the base I used an old
Waterman fountain pen box. It was hard
and had proper dimensions, 19cm length
and 17cm width. I enclosed it with balsa
wood and prepared a glossy mahogany
finish. When the varnish dried I covered it
with old paper with masking tape and
started to create the terrain. I like plasticine
to prepare it because I have a lot of time
for sculpting.
FINISHING & DETAILS
So it was the time to fix the wheels and put
all elements together. The wheels were
glued but first I drilled little holes for pins.
They were needed to keep the kit in its
place on the diorama. I added the antenna
rod, the chain was tied up, spare wheels
went on the turret and rear deck - the rope
kept them in correct place. The tools were
put on both sides of the kit, the same with
the towing cable and the rest of the wire
used for the foliage. The nicest addition
were wooden pallets - I dont know the
producer but they are nicely designed and
detailed. The were fastened with straps
(paper with metal hooks). In the end I
prepared the rolled carpet. This is an
excellent product from Modern Armies in
Miniatures (Germany) and I can
recommend it for everyone who needs such
element on their diorama. The kit was
ready!
61
When it is dry it becomes hard enough for
painting and working with and not so soft
to loose the shape. I diluted white glue
with water to prepare the first layer of soil.
For this purpose I used plaster and light
sand mixed with acrylic resin.
During the drying I prepared the traces of
various tires and little stones were added.
In the end diluted resin was applied with
syringe here and there to fix places I
thought were not glued enough. The
terrain was ready. So now was the time of
painting. As always I airbrushed the base
with the same Black Primer and then
came the layer of USA Tan Earth 874. I did
not want to cover the whole area and
focused on main colour of soil. The right
colour was created with pigments of
course the same as with the kit. It gave
the desired image. The stones were
slightly drybrushed and the traces were
washed a bit. Now the details the
concrete wall was waiting for its turn for
several years. I forgot about it till the time I
needed something to close this scene. It is
a resin product (I do not remember the
producer) the same as Verlindens broken
fuel drum and the marker post. The static
grass was attached with white glue (this
time I did not dilute it) and finally painted in
different green shades. The branches
came from real plants roots. Behind the
wall I prepared some wooden trunks
(balsa) and the sawn tree.
The telegraph pole with insulators come
from RB Model. After adding all of those
elements I could say that the base was
ready!
62
THE FIGURES
From the beginning I knew what figures I wanted
to use. The Master Club series of Russian troops
is very popular and often used by modellers
worldwide to create scenes describing modern
conflicts in the Russians participated. I bought
more figures than I showed on the diorama - the
reason was very simple - I wanted to have bigger
choice with figures to fit them into my idea. The
soldier sitting on the spare wheel has a new head
with more Asian features and the wounded hand
was bandaged. The guy next to him has a new
head. The driver has a new head too with typical
Russian tanker headphones cap (in WW2 style).
The last figure was not modified. All were painted
using Vallejo acrylics and internet sourced
reference photos for the uniforms. The final
touches required some pigments to unify them
with the ground and the kit.
Another good kit from Trumpeters
range gave me the chance to build
a nice looking replica. I hope to see
more versions of this vehicle. Maybe
the designers will prepare some
Polish BRDMs operating in Iraq or
Afghanistan? It would be great! For
now I can recommend it to all
Soviet/Russian modern vehicle
enthusiasts. Now Im waiting for the
next modern subject! Come on
Trumpeter!
63
70 Ads:Layout 1 10/04/2013 17:36 Page 5
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