Real Food Fall 2013 PDF

AL EX aR GU Na
FALL 2013
H SC EL LI :O LD SC Hoo L
S oCEED ALL PR urchases from p agazine of this m to will go
ONE-PoT
04 $1.99
Cool-Weather, Globally Inspired Comfort Food

CUBAN PORK AND PEppER STEW WITH BLAcK BEANs (REcIpE pAGE 55)
WoNDERS
FIESTA CON CARNE: Tacos, Burritos, Tortas, and more CHEESE AND BEER: Popular craft brews with their cultured counterparts WHOLE GRAINS: Delicious and healthy ingredients take center stage
Sendiks Food Markets

welcome
Open 7 a.m. 9 p.m. daily
340 W. Brown Deer Rd. Bayside, WI 53217 Coming Soon! 13425 W. Watertown Plank Rd. Elm Grove, WI 53122 (262) 784-9525 5200 W. Rawson Ave. Franklin, WI 53132 (414) 817-9525 N112 W15800 Mequon Rd. Germantown, WI 53022 (262) 250-9525 2195 1st Ave. Grafton, WI 53024 (262) 376-9525 7901 W. Layton Ave. Greeneld, WI 53220 (414) 329-9525 10930 N. Port Washington Rd. Mequon, WI 53092 (262) 241-9525 3600 S. Moorland Road New Berlin, WI 53151 (262) 696-9525 8616 W. North Ave. Wauwatosa, WI 53226 (414) 456-9525 280 N. 18th Avenue West Bend, WI 53095 (262) 335-9525 500 E. Silver Spring Dr. Whitesh Bay, WI 53217 (414) 962-9525
BAYSIDE
ELM GROVE
FRANKLIN
GERMANTOWN
A New, Fresh Idea A
GRAfTON
GREENfIELD
MEQUON
NEW BERLIN
WAUWATOSA
WEST BEND
WHITEfISH BAY
www.sendiksmarket.com
Margaret Harris (left) and Ted Balistreri (right), family co-owners of Sendiks, present the spring charity campaign check to Mark Young (second from left), ABCD board president, and Ginnie Finn (second from right), ABCD executive director. A portion of the $40,500 donation was raised from sales of the Real Food spring issue. Even Bernie Brewer wanted in on the fun!
nother year is moving quickly by, and we find ourselves already in fall after an always too short summer. This year, our summer was especially busy as we prepared for the opening of our Bayside store. Bayside is our eleventh location, and with the inclusion of its gasoline services and intimate setting, it gave us the opportunity to create a new style of store, a The Balistreri family: Patty, Nick, Margaret (Harris), concept we are calling Sendiks Salvatore, Ted, and Patrick. Fresh 2 Go. At Sendiks Fresh 2 Go, you will expe- tarian sandwich for lunch, or a homemade rience the same dedication to quality salad for dinner, youll be able to find a nutritious, portable offering for any meal products and friendly service that have defined the best grocery shopping experi- of the day. As we planned for a great new store, ence, period. But as people stop in to fill up their tanks, purchase their morning were continuing our focus on providcup of coffee, and begin their busy day, ing food to those that need it most. Our they will see a host of new food and bev- charity partner this issue is again Feeding erage options that are faster, fresher, and America of Eastern Wisconsin. All proceeds from the sale of this magazine will healthier than you would expect from go directly to this charity as they continue your neighborhood service station. the battle against hunger in our commuWhen youre on the go, we know that nity. You can read more about other ways convenience often trumps nutrition when to support their mission on page 16. it comes to your food choices. But we all We thank you for your ongoing support, need the right fuel to meet lifes demanding challenges, so weve developed healthy and look forward to serving you in a fresh, snacks in convenient packaging. In short, new store. See you at Sendiks! youll see lots of offerings that are fresh and ready to eat on the goFresh 2 Go. Sincerely, Whether its fresh squeezed orange juice for breakfast, already cut fruit and a vege- The Balistreri Family
www.sendiksmarket.com real food 9

fruit
njoy more than an apple-a-day when there are so many delicious options for snacking, baking, and savory dishes. There are more than 7,500 known varieties of apples grown worldwide and about 2,500 varieties grown in the United States. But of those, a small number accounts for the lions share of commercial production. Below are those varieties as well as a few new club varieties that may soon be the apple of your eye. At only about 80 calories for a medium apple, theyre an excellent source of fiber, and a good source of vitamin C, potassium, and antioxidant flavonoids. (Its best to store them in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator.)
APPLE Guide
Sweet/tart spicy and firm. Uses: Snacking, baking. Available Oct.July Sweet with a zingy crunch. Holds its texture for long periods. Uses: Salads, pie, sauce, baking, freezing. Available Oct. Aug. Sweet and slightly tart and tender. Uses: Salads, kabobs, and garnishes. Available Sept. April Sweet and firm. Uses: Snacking and pies. Available Oct.Sept.

grains
KEEN ON KEEN-WAH
A complete protein, quinoa is a gluten-free nutritional super grain
VaRiETY Braeburn
VaRiETY Honeycrisp
Sweet/tart and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, pies, sauce, and freezing. Available Sept. Feb. Sweet/tart, tangy and firm. Uses: Snacking, baking, sauces, pies, and freezing. Available Oct. Aug. Sweet/tart pear-like and crunchy. Uses: Snacking, salads, salsas, baking. Available Year-Round Sweet/tart and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, and sauce. Available Oct. May Spicy/tangy and less firm. Uses: Pies and baking. Available Sept. April Tangy and tender. Uses: Snacking, sauce, and pies. Available Sept. July Zesty/tangy and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, sauce, baking. Available Jan. June Unique, tangy-tart/sweet. Uses: Snacking, salads, pie, sauce, baking, freezing. Available Nov. Aug. Mild sweet and crisp. Uses: Snacking and salads. Available Year-Round Sweet and firm. Uses: Sauce, baking, and pies. Available Oct.Sept.
Cameo
Idared
Quinoa Risotto Milanese with Vegetables

SerVes 4-6
Cortland
Jazz
Crispin
Jonagold
Empire
Sweet/tart and crisp. Uses: Snacking and salads. Available Sept. July Sweet/spicy and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, baking, and freezing. Available Year-Round Sweet and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, sauce, and freezing. Available Aug. March Sweet/tart and crisp. Uses: Snacking and salads. Available Aug. Nov. Mellow sweet and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, sauce, and pies. Available Year-Round Tart and crisp. Uses: Snacking, salads, pies, sauce, baking. Available Year-Round
Jonathan
-8 cups vegetable broth 5 (or chicken stock) 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons butter 1 small onion, diced 1 cups quinoa cup white wine (optional) 1 cups vegetables (peas, asparagus, green beans, roasted red peppers, etc.) cup Romano cheese, shredded cup parsley, chopped as garnish Parmesan cheese, grated 1. Heat stock in a saucepan and keep it covered and warm. 2. Heat a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add olive oil and half the butter (1 tablespoon). When butter is just melted, add onions and saut for 5 minutes. Add quinoa and stir to coat well. Add wine and allow to be absorbed. Add enough warm stock to just cover the quinoa. In about 5 minutes, add more stock to keep the quinoa covered. Add vegetables at this time. Do not cover the pan, but keep adding warm stock as needed to keep quinoa covered; this takes approximately 2025 minutes, until quinoa is tender. Add remaining butter and Romano cheese and stir in well. 3. Remove from heat, garnish with parsley and serve with Parmesan cheese.
Fuji
McIntosh
Gala
Piata!
Golden Delicious
Red Delicious
Granny Smith
Rome Beauty
10 real food fall 2013
Recipe cOUrtesy Of Ancient HarVest
Ginger Gold
Pink Lady/ Cripps Pink
PhOtOs COUrtesy Of AUssie Apples, Stemilt GrOwers LLC, New YOrK Apple AssOciatiOn, and JaZZ Apple
ont let wondering how to say it stop you from trying quinoa pronounced KEEN-wah. This rice of the new millennium, as some also call it, not only contains more protein than any grain (more than double the protein of the equivalent size serving of rice) but its considered a complete protein because it contains all eight essential amino acids. Gluten-free and saturated fat free, its very low in sodium, lower in carbohydrates than most grains, and provides a rich source of nutrientsits a good source of iron, vitamin E, riboflavin (B2), pyridoxine (B6), magnesium, and zinc. Its an excellent source of dietary fiber providing 11 grams or 44 percent daily value per serving. Quinoa may be relatively new to grocery store shelves in North America but it was a staple for the ancient Incas of South Americas Andean mountain regions some 6,000 years ago. It was so important they called it the mother grain and even used it as currency. In the era of European colonization the grain fell out of favor but since being recently rediscovered, more and more products from quinoa flour and pasta to crackers and tortilla chips containing the grain are available.The United Nations even named 2013 the International Year of Quinoa to recognize its nutritional, ecological, and economic benefits. The seed from a plant related to beets, spinach, and kale, tiny bead-shaped quinoa may technically not be a grain but people use it like a grain. It has a mild, slightly nutty flavor and comes in a variety of
colors including ivory, orange, pink, red, purple, and black. The most common, ivory, changes to a creamy transparent color after its cooked. Cook and use quinoa in the same way as rice on the stove or in a rice cooker, keeping in mind it expands to four times its original size. Combine one part quinoa with two parts liquid in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to a simmer, cooking until the liquid is absorbed. One cup of quinoa usually cooks in about 15 minutes. (Chicken or vegetable stock can be substituted for water to add flavor.) For a side dish, mix it with a little salt, pepper, and onion or lemon; as a base for salad combine it with sauted onions or vegetables; toss with dressing and use as the base for a cold salad; quinoa complements bitter greens such as kale. And check out the recipe for Chicken and Cauliflower Vindaloo over Saffron Quinoa in the whole grains feature on page 42. Quinoa isnt just for dinner; its also a good high protein breakfast optioncook it, then add honey and top with fruit and nuts.With all these delicious ways to use it, you cant help but be keen on nutritionpacked quinoa.
Where in the World? W

hile the intended use of our Sendiks shopping bags is to carry groceries, weve heard there are many other great usesfrom toting items to the office, school, or even around the world! Here are some globetrotting customers who have put their Sendiks bags to good use. The next time youre in a faraway place and spot a red Sendiks bagor youre traveling yourselfsnap a picture and send it to us at sendiksmarket.com and click on Where in the World. (Please provide high resolution images, your name, and a few details.)
Andrew in Guangzhou, China
community
Only the Best, Period

Committed grower relationships help ensure a quality produce selection.
produce
CHINA
AUSTRALIA
Guy in Sydney, Australia
ur dedication to provide only the best produce to our customers started in 1926. From selling the finest produce from a cart on Milwaukees East Side to the 11 current locations of Sendiks Food Markets, our strong commitment to quality has remained unchanged. To maintain this high standard, its important that we form lasting relationships with grower partners who share our same commitment. One of these grower partners is Mike Valpredo, who grows Bako Sweet and Country Sweet Produce at the Valpredo
Family Farm in Bakersfield, California. Many of our customers will remember these brands from the delicious sweet potatoes and onions that were available at Sendiks last fall. Were happy to be expanding our partnership this year to include carrots and watermelon as well. Our customers deserve the best, said Patrick Balistreri, one of the family co-owners of Sendiks and our main produce buyer. Ive visited the Valpredo Family Farms for the past several years, and I always come away impressed with Mikes commitment to providing just that, the very best. This
year, well be offering even more produce from the Valpredo Family Farm, much of it grown exclusively for Sendiks. Some of the new products include onions at the exact size desired by Sendiks customers. In paying particular attention to our produce bins and talking to our customers, were able to learn and provide exactly what they want. Thats offering the best grocery shopping experience, period. And it all starts with a seed, a farmers care, a sunny field in California, and a family-ownedand-operated, local retailers commitment to only the best, period.
Barbara and Gerald at Tiananmen Square in Beijing, China
CHINA
Laverne in Hong Kong, China
CHINA
AUSTRALIA
Irma in Brisbane, Australia
Mary at St. Marks Square in Venice, Italy
ITALY
Greg and Tricia on Anna Maria Island, Florida
FLORIDA
Robin and Karen in Caye Caulker, Belize
BELIZE
Renee in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
Clockwise from top left: At the Valpredo Family Farm in Bakersfield, California, Patrick Balistreri (left) inspects Bako Sweet, Sweet Potato starts with Mike Valpredo. Patrick Balistreri (right) examines this seasons Bako Sweet Onions with Mike Valpredo at the Valpredo Family Farm in Bakersfield, California. Patrick Balistreri (left) and Mike Valpredo discuss the progress of carrots grown at the Valpredo Family Farm. In addition to the Bako Sweet Onions and Bako Sweet Potatoes, Sendiks will also offer carrots and melons from Valpredo Family Farms this year. These Bako Sweet Onions were grown exclusively for Sendiks, ensuring only the best, period, for our customers.

food & wine
Who says French toast is just for breakfast? Debra Ponzek, author of The Dinnertime Survival Cookbook,
More specifically, its best to pair Mexican dishes by their sauces rather than the meat. Rich, cheesy enchiladas, burritos, and other dishes with a heavier sauce can work well with the classic Chianti, sweet Zinfandel, or Riesling. The residual sugar and slight fruit in these wines will cut the fat and curb spiciness, too. Chipotle and mole sauces have rich earthy flavors that pair well with fruity Zinfandel, Merlot, and Aussie Shiraz. The fruitiness of the wine lightens heavier sauces and complements the unique flavors. A green sauce made with tart, rich tomatillos finds good matches in Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cte du Rhne, and Syrah.Tomato-based sauces work well with Sangiovese, Barbera, and Zinfandel. A big part of Mexican flavor is the spice of chili peppers so another angle is to select wine according to the dominant chile used in the dish. Look to wines with a touch of residual sugar to complement spicy food. If your dish has ancho chiles, try Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz/Syrah, or Tempranillo. With the smoky chipotle, Malbec or Tempranillo would be a good match. Powerful habanero chiles can be tamed with Viognier. Classic jalapeos play nice with Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and ros; serranos also work well with these, as well as Riesling. Mexican dishes can also include some standout fresh flavors. To complement citrus notes go with whites such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. A seafood dish prepared with garlic, cilantro, and onions can pair well with Pinot Grigio, Soave, or Riesling, and lighter reds, such as Pinot Noir and Barbera, can add depth without taking over. And how about a partner to dance with that salsa? Take off-dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, or Zinfandel for a spin.
BREaKFaST e m ti y An
bakery
with Mary Goodbody, likes to set up this French toast in the morning so its ready to go when she gets home from work. Its a handy recipe because it bakes in the oven and you dont have to tend the stove. It also works well for breakfast, of course, plus you can assemble it the night before and bake in the morning. Its a real winner, particularly when blueberries are in season. And not all bread is created equal: While French toast may be a practical way to use up those quarter or half loaves of slightly stale bread languishing in the bread box, when you have a choice, Ponzek always suggests using densely crumbed, egg-based brioche or challah. Both breads are gorgeously rich and perfectly textured for soaking up the sweet egg bath.
Blueberry Streusel French Toast

SerVes 8
French Toast 1 loaf challah or brioche (about 1 pound), cut into -inch thick slices 6 large eggs 3 cups whole milk 3 cup sugar 1 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 cups fresh blueberries Streusel Topping cup all-purpose flour cup packed brown sugar cup old-fashioned rolled oats 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut up into small pieces maple syrup, for serving
1. To make the French toast: Lightly spray a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking dish with vegetable spray. Cover the dish with a single layer of bread slices. 2. Whisk together the eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla and pour enough of the mixture over the bread to cover it evenly (about half the mixture). Sprinkle half the blueberries over the bread. 3. Lay the rest of the bread slices in the dish and pour the remaining egg mixture over it. Lightly press on the bread slices to insure they are saturated with egg. Let the French toast soak for about 15 minutes or up to 8 hours, covered and refrigerated. 4. Preheat the oven to 350F. 5. To make the streusel topping: Put the flour, sugar, and oats in a food processor and pulse just to mix. Add the butter, piece by piece, pulsing until the mixture is crumbly. 6. Sprinkle the streusel topping evenly over the French toast. Scatter the remaining blueberries over the streusel. 7. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until set in the center and the top is golden brown. Serve with maple syrup.
Mix it up with Mexican dishes by uncorking a bottle of wine
argaritas or beer are the usual suspects when Mexican food is on the menu, but wine can certainly dance with any salsa. The many different seasonings, sauces, and spices in Mexican dishes work well with wine, as long as you keep a few loose guidelines in mind. There are no hard and fast rules but, in general, the flavors of Mexican food pair best with smooth, crisp wines with balanced acidity. Youll do best to avoid full-bodied, high alcohol, oaked, and tannic wine. Try whites such as Albario, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Torrontes,
Gewrztraminer, dry Riesling, and Viognier, but avoid oaky Chardonnay, which can fight with Mexican food. Some red wines that offer good matches include Spanish Riojas, Italian Chiantis, and Pinot Noir, as well as jammy wines such as Zinfandel, Shiraz, and Beaujolais. Also try bigger reds with some spice, such as Malbec from Argentina or Chteauneuf-du-Pape. Avoid the high-tannin reds, such as Bordeaux and Cabernet Sauvignon, since the tannins do not play nice with the heat of chili peppers. A good all-around go-to juice is ros, and sparkling wine is often a nice complement.
PhOtO by steVe LegatO
PhOtO by Jill Chen
Recipe reprinted with permissiOn frOm THE DINNErtIME SUrVIVAL COOKBOOK 2013 by Debra POnZeK with Mary GOOdbOdy, RUnning Press, a member Of the PerseUs BOOKs GrOUp

community support
Feeding America Eastern Wisconsin Goes Mobile to Help Feed the Hungry
ood banks were originally created in the late 1970s as an emergency supply for community food programs that needed assistance during difficult times. They were intended to be temporary and used only in times of great need. Now, more than 30 years later, food banks have become cornerstones of hunger relief in communities across the nation. As the states largest food bank, Feeding America Eastern Wisconsin is working to meet the growing need for food. In the last two years, Feeding America has seen a 35 percent increase in the demand for food among its programs. In order to fulfill such a high need were challenged to find new ways to provide relief to underserved communities across Wisconsin. Feeding Americas new mobile food pantry truck allows us to directly distribute food to the hungry in underserved and high need areas of eastern Wisconsin. Designed like a beverage truck, the mobile food pantry holds fresh and frozen product in refrigerated compartments along with traditional nonperishable food items. Cheryl Clark attended a mobile pantry in Watertown because a health scare left her and her fianc without
money for groceries, I think its amazing what you guys [Feeding America] do for people. Cheryls story is like many of the 330,000 people that rely on food from Feeding America every year. Many of whom have found themselves in unexpected situations that make it difficult to provide food for their families. Clark expressed her gratitude as she left the mobile pantry, Its great what you give us, it helps us supplement what other little bit [of food] we can find. All I can do is say thank you, thank you so much.
How You Can Help

As many Wisconsinites continue to feel the lasting effects of the recession, Feeding America anticipates the need for food wont diminish anytime soon. You can help make a difference in our community. Make a donation at your local Sendiks Food Market or visit www.feedingamericawi.org to learn more about giving the gift of food, money, or time. Thank you for providing hope to Wisconsins hungry.
countertop
Beer & Cheese Entertaining
What's Brewing?
Raising a glass to fun and functional beer-ware and enjoying it with cheese.
PRODUCTION & STYLING STYLE ARCHITECTS PHOTOGRAPHY tJ tUrNer
By Rachelle Mazumdar, Director of Weddings + Events, Style-Architects style-architects.com
FRESHEN UP Keep cheese fresher longer with these lively papers and stickers. Cheese Papers & Stickers, $12.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com
THE ESSENTIALS Never be caught without the proper glassware again! Assorted Beer Glasses, $2.95 - $12.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com
UNDER THE DOME Showcase your favorite cheeses inside this unique display. French Kitchen Marble Cheese Dome, $49.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com
BRINg THE PARTY Show up at your next party with your favorite brew in this sturdy carrier. 6-pack Wooden Beer Holder, $39.95, Red Envelope, redenvelope.com
SIP-AND-GO Not your typical growler, check out the monogram! Portland Growler, $69.95, Red Envelope, redenvelope.com
SPREAD THE GOODNESS Add a touch of elegance to your next cheese soiree. Vintage Silver Cheese Knives - Set of 3, $29.95, WilliamsSonoma, williams-sonoma.com
CHEESE PAPERS AND BEER FLIGHT IMAGES COURTESY OF CRATE & BARREL
Forgo the classic wine and cheese pairingmix it up with some unique and quenching brews. Growlers, home-brewing kits, and micro-breweries we cant help but notice that craft beers are all the rage right now. So why not incorporate this new trend into your fall entertaining? Set out a variety of cheeses and beers and challenge your guests to see which complement each other best. We suggest investing in a variety of specialty beer glasses. Whether its a pilsner, stout, or IPA, having the proper glassware is essential. As do specialty wine glassware, proper beerware pays respect to the particular brew types and also becomes a conversation piece for you and your guests. Or, use a beer flight set and mix in one of your own by experimenting with a craft beer home brew kit. Will your guests be able to tell which one is yours? This is a perfect way for you to add that personal touch to your entertaining. (But be careful, your friends may come knocking on your door for more!) Why not take a creative spin this fall by pairing your favorite cheeses with some complementary beers. This entertaining angle will be sure to leave your guests impressed by your creativity!
Style-Architects is a boutique lifestyle services company offering imaginative and awe-inspiring event planning and fashion styling services. www.style-architects.com
Make Your Own!

BREW MASTER Whip up your own pub-worthy brew! Craft Beer Home Brew Kit, $49.95, Red Envelope, redenvelope.com CHEESE WIZ Take your love of cheese to the next level by crafting your own batch. DIY Goat/Chevre Cheese-Making Kit, $29.95, Williams-Sonoma, redenvelope.com
BEER CONNOISSEuR Compare different ales, pilsners, and stouts with this perfect beer flight. 5-piece Beer Sampler Set, $29.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com
fall 2013 real food 19
countertop
Glorious Goodies
It's baking season! Roll out your favorite treats with a personal touch.
PRODUCTION & STYLING STYLE ARCHITECTS PHOTOGRAPHY tJ tUrNer
PuT A LEAf ON IT Get into the autumn spirit with these fun shapes to customize pie crusts. Pie Decorating Kit, $14.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com HXXXXXXX Xxxxxxxxxx. Mxx xxxx xxxx
KNEAD IT! Minimize the transfer of flour into the dough with these handy gloves. Dough Gloves, $6.95, WilliamsSonoma, williams-sonoma.com
PIE MAKER AND DOUGH GLOVE IMAGES COURTESY OF WILLIAMS-SONOMA; PIE DECORATING KIT IMAGE COURTESY OF SUR LA TAbLE
PIE fOR ONE This versatile pie maker can cook up pies, tarts and even quiche! Breville Personal Pie Maker, $79.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com
RETRO INSPIRED Serve up yummy baked goods on this fanciful display. Ceramic White Cake Stand, $29.95, WilliamsSonoma, williams-sonoma.com
Roll It Out
BAKER'S CHOICE Perfect pair for rolling out your favorite pastries. Marble Rolling Pin With Handles, $24.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com, White Marble Pastry Board, $39.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com
kitchen skills
Easy As Pie
BY JASON ROSS
Culinary Instructor Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota
s there anything more evocative of the season, more comforting and reective of the cooks touch, than pie? Nothing says homemade quite like it. Any pie lover will tell you, its all about the crust. Made with just three ingredientsour, butter, and waterpie crusts change from long and aky to ner textured and crumbly based on the pie makers technique. And, its easier than you think.
BaSiC 3-2-1 PiE DOUGH and CLaSSiC appLE piE (RECipE paGE 24)
Pie-making Basics
FILLING Simple is best. Use pies to highlight seasonal fruit at the peak of flavor. Simply toss fruit with sugar and starch to make filling. For drier fruits, such as apples, use flour or cornstarch and for wetter fruits, such as berries, use tapioca starch, which will absorb more of the liquid. Make sure to fill and cook pies quickly after tossing with sugar and starch to avoid wet fruit and a soggy crust as the sugar pulls moisture out of the fruit. DOUGH Easy as 3-2-1. Classic pie dough uses 3 parts flour, 2 parts solid fat (butter, shortening, lard, or a mixture), and 1 part water (plus a little salt for flavor). Measure all ingredients using a scale to get accurate amounts and the right ratio. (If you dont have a scale, I offer measurements in the recipe on the next page.) Every inch of pie represents 1 ounce of pie dough, so an eight-inch pie crust will weigh 8 ounces (or 16 ounces, double, with a top). Flaky or Mealy. Pie dough is generally separated into two categories, flaky and mealy. The difference in dough texture comes from how the fat is cut in, or mixed with flour. For flakier dough, cut the butter in less thoroughly, leaving visible chunks of butter, roughly the size of a pea. Flaky dough can be harder to work with than mealy dough, and when paired with wetter fillings, will more easily absorb liquid and turn soggy. The batter for mealy dough is cut in more completely, with a butter and flour mixture that looks like rough cornmeal. Mealy dough has a more tender bite, finer texture, and works well with custards and pies, where the dough is baked before the filling is added (called blind baked), but is also more likely to crumble and fall apart. Cold is key. For any type of pie dough, its important to keep the dough cold and the fat from melting. Cold fat melts during baking, releases steam, which is trapped in the dough, and creates layers and texture. Chill ingredients at nearly every step. Yes, even chill the flour before making the dough. (And when you cut in the fat, use your fingertips instead of your whole hand, rubbing flour into cold fat between thumb and fingertips. Using only the tips of your fingers will help to keep fat cold longer and make flakier pie dough.) Chill after cutting the flour and butter together, after adding the water and forming the dough into a disc, after rolling the dough disc into a thin sheet and forming the pie, and finally re-chill after forming pie, right up until baking.
TRICKS of the TRADE:

Just the fats: The general thought is that butter adds more flavor, and shortening adds more flakiness to pie dough. The truth is, butter can make just as flaky dough, but you have to be more careful with it. Solid fat coated in flour and caught between dough releases steam when it bakes. The steam pushes the dough apart and forms the flakes in the air pockets left behind in the baked crust. Shortening is easier to keep solid than butter because it melts at a higher temperature and is easier to work with and knead. Butter melts more easily in your hands so you have less time to handle it and have to take more care to keep the dough chilled as you work. Is the butter flavor worth the effort? You have to decide, but you can have both flavor and flaky texture. Fixing cracks: If the dough cracks during rolling, try fixing it with a small piece of extra dough, simply pushing the piece into the crack and rolling it into the broken area. If the dough cracks during baking, make a slurry with water and flour and rub the mixture onto the crack. Then continue baking until the slurry hardens and the pie is finished cooking.
kitchen skills
Basic 3-2-1 Pie Dough

MaKES EnOUGH dOUGH FOR a 9 inCH piE WiTH TOp
Classic Apple Pie

MaKES a 9 inCH piE WiTH TOp
Here is the classic pie dough. The results depend on how you handle the dough and how far you rub the butter into the flour. Use these same ingredients to make either flaky or mealy dough.
9 ounces (2 cups) pastry or all-purpose flour 6 ounces (1 sticks butter/ 12 tablespoons), cut into inch cubes 3 ounces (6 tablespoons) water 1 teaspoon salt 1. After weighing or measuring all ingredients, mix flour and salt together in bowl with a whisk. Chill 10 minutes or until cold. 2. Cut flour and butter together using your fingertips to rub the flour into the butter. Remember, for flakier dough, cut the butter into the flour until the chunks of butter are the size of peas and, for mealy dough, take it farther until the dough resembles cornmeal. Refrigerate butter and flour dough 10 minutes or until chilled. 3. Pour in the cold water, mixing briefly, but incorporating the water completely with your hands. Form the dough into two discs, roughly 2 inches thick, and wrap the dough disc in plastic wrap. Chill the discs completely at least 1 hour. Note: Dough discs can be made up to three days in advance or frozen, wrapped and stored in zip-lock bags, for weeks.
Use your favorite local seasonal apple. For a great go-to pie apple, try Golden Delicious. It balances acidity, sweetness, and texture and caramelizes well during baking.
2 chilled 3-2-1 pie dough discs from recipe at left cups sugar cup all-purpose flour teaspoon salt 1 pinch ground cinnamon 1 pinch ground ginger 1 pinch ground cloves 1 tablespoon lemon juice 5 Golden Delicious apples 1 egg whisked with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash pinch sugar for coating the crust 1. Preheat oven to 375F. 2. Use a rolling pin dusted with flour to roll one dough disc on a lightly floured surface, leaving the second dough disc chilling in the refrigerator. Turn dough 45 degrees with each roll, so dough doesnt stick to board and forms a rough circle, inch thick. Lay rolled dough into a pie tin, and push it into the sides, avoiding stretching or tearing the dough. Chill rolled dough in pie tin. 3. In small bowl, mix together sugar, flour, salt, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves with a whisk and set aside. 4. Pour lemon juice in bowl big enough to hold apples. 5. Peel, core, and slice apples into inch slices and toss in bowl with lemon juice, coating slices well. 6. Pour dry sugar mixture into apple slices and toss, coating well. 7. Use a rolling pin and roll second dough disc. Repeat rolling procedure from first dough disc forming a rough circle, inch thick, to be used as pie top. 8. Pour apples into pie tin lined with pie dough. Using a pastry brush, brush edges with egg wash. Lay second rolled dough on top and seal edges, crimping with thumb and fingertips or using fork tines to make a decorative edge, and trim excess dough with kitchen scissors. Cut small slits in dough or hole in center to help vent steam during cooking. 9. Chill pie in freezer for 10 minutes. 10. Brush pie top with egg wash, and coat with light sprinkling of sugar. 11. Bake until apple filling bubbles and crust turns deep golden brown, roughly 50-55 minutes. Rotate in oven after 25 minutes. 12. Allow to cool and serve still slightly warm or at room temperature.
Flaky & Mealy: Two doughs, one pie. Try flaky (left) and mealy (right) dough for the same pie. Split the dough recipe in half, using mealy dough for the bottom crust and flaky dough for the top. Mealy dough better withstands excess moisture from fruit fillings and forms a tender base, while flaky dough makes a crisp and flaky top.
PHOTOS BY tERRy bRENNAN; FooD StyLED by LARA MIKLASEVICS
fiesta con carne

BY BRUCE AIDELLS
PHOTOGRApHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
TACOS, BURRItOS, tORtAS, AND MORE
TACOS AL PAStOR (RECIpE pAGE 35)
Chicken Mole Verde Enchiladas (Chicken Enchiladas in an Almond and Green Chile Sauce)
MAKES 4 SERVINGS WItH LEFtOVERS
CHICKEN MOLE VERDE ENCHILADAS
Stacked enchiladas are much easier and less messy to put together than the rolled kind.They are best made with older, stiff tortillas. Stacked enchiladas hale from the northern Mexican state of Sonora and are also popular in New Mexico. In this recipe, the chicken and mole sauce are cooked separately. That way, the cooked chicken can easily be shredded and the sauce kept separate for spreading over tortillas. I like to create stacks of three tortillas high, which makes a nice serving size. Four of these stacks take up a lot of room, so you may need to make two stacks of six tortillas and cut in half from top to bottom to serve. These taller stacks will take an extra 10 to 15 minutes to cook.
Chicken 6 cups chicken broth, homemade or canned unpeeled onion 4 cloves garlic 6 green onions, white parts 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon fresh oregano 2 bay leaves 1 whole carrot 3 pounds chicken, boneless and skinless Mole Verde Sauce cup toasted almonds 12 tomatillos, diced 1 cups chopped onion 4 cups reserved broth 1 bunch cilantro, stems and leaves cup lime juice, or more to taste 6 green onions, green parts cut into 1-inch pieces 1 tablespoon fresh oregano teaspoon ground allspice 5 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 jalapeos, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped 4 fire-roasted poblano chilies, fresh or canned vegetable oil 12 corn tortillas 1 cup green onions, thinly sliced 1 cups shredded jack cheese cup chopped cilantro leaves
At the heart of these south-of-the-border creations is an array of flavorful meats to make a variety of delicious options. All of these recipes can be used to make tacos, burritos, and Mexican sandwiches called tortas. In addition, the recipes for Chicken Mole Verde and Lamb in Red Mole, which are braised with lots of sauce, can be used to make enchiladas. Dress it up: To make tacos, tortas, and burritos, you'll need a selection of garnishes, which can be presented in bowls so diners can dish up themselves based on their preferences. Be sure to have some finely diced sweet red onion, chopped cilantro, grated jack or Cheddar cheese, shredded iceberg lettuce, and a few salsas such as Salsa Verde (page 30) and Pico de Gallo (page 35). And dont forget some freshly made Guacamole (page 35).
Create a Dinner that Stacks Up Traditionally, enchiladas are made by wrapping a sauce-dipped tortilla around a filling to produce something like a rolled crepe. These are then arranged in a baking dish, covered with sauce and a sprinkling of cheese, and baked. The process is somewhat messy and time-consuming; I prefer to layer three flat tortillas to make stacked enchiladas.
1. For the chicken: In a large casserole or Dutch oven, bring broth to a boil with onion, garlic, green onions, cumin seeds, oregano, bay leaves, and carrot. Add chicken, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook 20 to 30 minutes, until chicken is tender (thighs may take a little longer). Remove chicken with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside to cool slightly. Reserve 4 cups broth for Mole Verde sauce. Chop or shred chicken. 2. For the Mole Verde sauce: In a blender, pure almonds. Add 2 cups reserved broth, teaspoon salt, and remaining ingredients. Blend to form a slightly lumpy sauce. 3. Heat oil in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat and add Mole Verde sauce. Cook, stirring frequently, 10 to 15 minutes, until mixture becomes quite thick. Stir in 1 cup broth and simmer uncovered until sauce has reduced and slightly thickened. Add more broth if sauce is too thick. Season with salt, pepper, and lime juice to taste. 4. Preheat oven to 375F. Place sauce in a saucepan, adding broth as needed (sauce should be slightly thickened but not too thick). Grease a rimmed, 11-by-17-inch sheet pan. Place a tortilla at end of pan (you should be able to make 4 stacks on pan). Spoon over 2 to 3 tablespoons sauce, spreading to fully coat tortilla. Sprinkle over about cup chicken. Top with another tortilla. Repeat to make 4 stacks of 3 tortillas. Sprinkle over green onions and top each stack with a quarter of cheese. Bake 20 minutes, until cheese is melted and center reaches 140F. Sprinkle each stack with cilantro and serve. Note: To use Mole Verde for tacos, burritos, and tortas, combine chicken and sauce, and simmer 10 minutes. Follow recipe to make desired meal.
Baja Style Fish Tacos

MAKES 4 tO 6 SERVINGS
Several years ago when I was visiting friends in Cabo San Lucas, we were taken to a small taqueria for lunch. The specialty was fish tacos coated in beer batter and served in warm tortillas with green salsa and a slightly sweet and limey coleslaw.Though simple, they could not have been better.The batter not only was light and crispy, it was flavored with an assortment of herbs and spices. After several tries, I think I have managed to come up with a very tasty rendition. Serve these soft tacos simply dressed with Salsa Verde and a bit of Tangy Coleslaw. You can also make tostadas (see the next page).The fried fish isnt ideal for a burrito, but it is delicious in a torta (page 36); simply replace the shredded lettuce with Tangy Coleslaw.
Tangy Coleslaw cup sour cream or Greek yogurt cup mayonnaise 2 teaspoons sugar, or more to taste cup chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons lime juice, or more to taste cup sweet onion, finely chopped 2 teaspoons grated lime zest 3 cups cabbage, finely shredded Spicy Beer Batter 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 cup lager beer, such as Mexican beer 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce 2 teaspoons pure New Mexico chili powder or Hungarian paprika teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon dried oregano 1 cups all-purpose flour 1 pounds fish fillets such as snapper, sea bass, halibut, cod, mahi mahi, or rock fish, cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips vegetable oil 12 corn tortillas Garnishes Salsa Verde lime wedges Tabasco or other hot sauce
1. For the coleslaw: Whisk together all ingredients except cabbage until well-blended. Toss in cabbage until nicely coated. Season to taste with salt, pepper, sugar, and lime juice. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Will keep refrigerated up to 1 day. 2. For the batter: In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together all ingredients except flour. Gradually whisk in flour to form a smooth, slightly runny batter. Set aside. 3. Lightly season fish with salt and pepper. Wrap tortillas in foil and heat 15 minutes in a 350F oven. Remove from oven and wrap in a clean dishtowel to keep warm. While tortillas are warming, heat 3 to 4 inches oil in a 3- to 4-quart, heavy pot to 350F to 360F. 4. Drop a fish piece into batter until coated. Pick up with a slotted spoon, allowing excess batter to drain back into bowl. Gently lower fish into hot oil and continue until several strips are frying. Cook fish in batches so as not to overcrowd pot. Flip fish pieces as they brown to cook evenly on all sides, about 3 to 5 minutes total. Drain on paper towels. 5. To serve, place 2 to 3 fish pieces in a warm tortilla. Spoon on Salsa Verde, a squeeze of lime, and hot sauce if desired. Spoon on coleslaw, fold, and serve immediately.
Catch These Ideas To make tostadas, spoon cup coleslaw over a crispy, flat tortilla. Top with 3 slices fish. Dress with Salsa Verde, chopped sweet onion, lime juice, and a few cilantro leaves. Or to make a torta, spread mayonnaise on both sides of a toasted French roll. Cover 1 half with coleslaw. Lay on 4 to 5 slices fish. Dress with Salsa Verde and a squeeze of lime. Add vine-ripened tomato slices, if desired.
Salsa Verde
MAKES 1 CUp
6 medium tomatillos, husked, washed, and diced, or 6 canned tomatillos, chopped 2 jalapeos, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or more to taste 3 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped (optional) 1. In a small saucepan, boil tomatillos and jalapeos 5 minutes with enough water to cover, until soft. (If using canned tomatillos, only boil jalapeos.) Drain and let cool. 2. In a blender jar, combine all ingredients with teaspoon salt. Blend until smooth and season to taste with lime and salt. Will keep refrigerated 2 to 3 days.
BAJA StYLE FISH TACOS
Burritos of Lamb in Red Mole Sauce

MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Mexican Rice
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Mexican cooking makes frequent use of a blender. For many recipes, the ingredients are just tossed into the blender jar, pured, combined with meat or other ingredients, and cooked long and slow.This makes for quick preparation with minimal clean up and only a few cooking stepsyet the results are complex-flavored sauces and tender meat. This recipe and the Chicken Mole Verde Enchiladas (page 29) make use of a blender, meaning they are easily executed and delicious to enjoy. The best cut of lamb to use for this recipe is boneless lamb shoulder, which has ample fat and collagen to yield a tender, juicy stew when properly cooked. If you cant find boneless lamb shoulder, use shoulder lamb chops; include the bones for additional flavor. Discard bones before serving. Note: Overnight prep required; see step 7.
6 mild whole dried chilies such as New Mexico or California, torn into pieces 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons New Mexico, Ancho, or California chili powder or Hungarian paprika 3 pounds boneless lamb shoulder or 3 pounds shoulder lamb chops, cut into 1-inch cubes pound Mexican chorizo, removed from casing, or finely chopped bacon Red Mole Sauce 2 cups chopped onion 4 cloves garlic 2 jalapeos, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 2 cups canned diced tomatoes with liquid 2 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce 1 12-ounce bottle Mexican beer 1 cup fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons fresh oregano, chopped pinch cinnamon 2 corn tortillas, torn into pieces 2 cups carrots, cut into -inch dice 6 9-inch flour tortillas Mexican Rice Garnishes Pico de Gallo (see page 35) chopped green onions 1. Place chilies in a heatproof, glass measuring cup and cover with boiling water. Let soak at least 30 minutes, until soft. Remove from water, discarding stems, seeds, and liquid. 2. Combine salt, pepper, and chili powder. Sprinkle generously over lamb. If any spice rub remains, reserve for mole.
cup peanut oil 2 cups long-grain white rice 1 cups chopped onion 2 tablespoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons New Mexico or California chili powder 2 8-ounce cans tomato sauce 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1. Heat a heavy, medium-size pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Add oil and rice. Cook rice, stirring, about 10 minutes, until golden and nutty. Add onion and cook 3 to 5 minutes, until translucent. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add chili powder and stir until rice is well-coated. 2. Pour tomato sauce over rice, stir, and cook 1 minute. Bring broth to a boil and pour over rice. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook 15 minutes, until all liquid is absorbed and rice is tender and fluffy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
BURRItOS OF LAmb IN RED MOLE SAUCE
3. Heat a Dutch oven over medium heat and add chorizo. Cook 5 to 10 minutes, using a spatula to break up into small pieces. Cook until meat is browned and fat is rendered (leave rendered fat to cook lamb in). Remove and set aside chorizo. 4. Increase heat to medium-high and add half of lamb. Cook about 10 minutes, until browned on all sides. Remove and set aside. Cook remaining lamb. Remove all but cup of rendered fat. Set pot aside. 5. For the Red Mole sauce: Combine soaked chilies, onions, garlic, jalapeos, tomatoes, chipotle chilies, beer, orange juice, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, and tortilla pieces, and blend to form a homogenous mixture. Add to pot and cook over medium-high heat 10 minutes, scrapping up any browned bits from bottom of pot. 6. Add lamb, chorizo, and any remaining spice rub. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cover and cook 1 hour and 15 minutes. Add carrots and cook 15 minutes. Taste lamb for tenderness. Continue to cook as needed, checking lamb for tenderness every 15 minutes. 7. Let lamb cool and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove congealed fat and reheat. If sauce is watery, remove solids and boil to reduce and concentrate flavor. Sauce should just be turning syrupy. 8. To assemble, place a tortilla in a frying pan over medium heat. When tortilla is hot to the touch, transfer to a plate. Spoon cup Mexican rice down middle of tortilla. Top with to cup lamb. Spoon over Pico de Gallo and sprinkle with green onions. Fold in sides and roll to form a tight package.
More with Mole Use any leftover mole sauce to make enchiladas (page 29) or tacos. The mole also makes for a soulwarming meal simply served over rice.
Tacos Al Pastor (Chili Marinated Pork Tacos)

Throughout Mexico and Mexican neighborhoods in the United States,Tacos Al Pastor are a popular treat.Typically Al Pastor is made from thin slices of pork shoulder rubbed with a chili paste, stacked, and grilled on a vertical spit similar to Turkish doner kebabs.To prepare a taco, the cook simply slices pork from the outer edge, coarsely chops the meat, and stuffs it into a tortilla. Often a whole, peeled pineapple crowns the top of the spit, and a few pineapple chunks are added to the taco. Ive found that Al Pastor can be made simply by grilling thin cutlets of pork cut from the pork shoulder butt with great results.You also can use thin-cut boneless pork chops.Al Pastor also makes a great filling for burritos and tortas.
Al Pastor Paste (Red Chili Paste) 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup Ancho, New Mexico, or California chili powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon dried oregano pinch cinnamon cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 pounds boneless Boston butt (pork shoulder butt), cut in -inch cutlets 12 to 18 corn tortillas Garnishes finely chopped red onion chopped cilantro shredded jack or Cheddar cheese chopped green onions sour cream Salsa Verde (see page 30) Pico de Gallo lime wedges Guacamole fresh pineapple, diced 1. For the Al Pastor paste: Combine all ingredients except pork in a small bowl and whisk to form a smooth paste. Generously smear paste over entire surface of cutlets. Place pork in a zipper-lock bag and marinate at room temperature 2 hours (or in refrigerator overnight).
TACOS AL PAStOR
2. Build a charcoal fire, spreading coals so some areas are thicker. When thicker layer is medium-hot, fire is ready. If using a gas grill, heat to medium-hot. 3. Remove pork from bag, leaving paste on meat. Place meat directly over flame. Grill 1 to 2 minutes per side. If flaming occurs, move to a cooler part of grill. Meat is done when firm to the touch. If necessary, cut into a cutlet to check for doneness; center should be faintly pink. 4. Transfer meat to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes. Chop into -inch pieces and transfer to a serving bowl. Serve 3 tacos per person, letting guests dish up their own garnishes.
Pico de Gallo
MAKES 2 CUpS
3 medium ripe tomatoes, stemmed and diced cup sweet red onion, finely chopped 2 jalapeos, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped 1 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste 2 teaspoons olive oil (optional) 1 cup chopped cilantro 1. In a small serving bowl, stir all ingredients until combined. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and sugar. Will keep refrigerated up to 1 day.
Guacamole
MAKES 1 tO 2 CUpS
1 large ripe Haas avocado, seeded and peeled cup ripe tomato, diced cup red onion, finely chopped 2 teaspoons fresh jalapeo, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (optional) 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste teaspoon salt 1. Place avocado into a medium bowl and mash coarsely with a fork or potato masher. Do not over mash; texture should be quite lumpy. Stir in remaining ingredients and season with lime juice, salt, and pepper to taste.
Carne Asada (Grilled Marinated Beef Steaks)

Mexican Torta (Mexican Sandwich Roll)

MAKES 1 SANDWICH
This tangy, full-flavored marinade is ideal for slightly chewy beef steak cuts, such as skirt or flank steak. In Mexico, skirt steak is called fajitas, Spanish for belt, based on its thin, long shape. Once grilled, thin strips of meat can be stuffed into warm tortillas for soft tacos or combined with Mexican Rice (page 32) and rolled into large flour tortillas for burritos.You also can use the thin slices of meat to make tortas.
Marinade 2 Guajillo or New Mexico chilies or 1 tablespoon pure New Mexico chili powder cup red onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons jalapeo, stemmed and seeded, finely chopped 2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped 1 cup cilantro, stems and leaves finely chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 red chipotle chilies in adobo sauce 2 teaspoons adobo sauce teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper cup soy sauce cup fresh lime juice cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice cup tequila (optional) cup peanut oil 1 to 1 pounds skirt or flank steak 12 corn tortillas Garnishes finely chopped red onion chopped cilantro shredded jack or Cheddar cheese chopped green onions sour cream Salsa Verde (see page 30) Pico de Gallo (see page 35) lime wedges Guacamole (see page 35)
2 to 3 tablespoons mayonnaise cup Guacamole 4 to 6 slices Carne Asada or other filling cup iceberg lettuce, shredded 2 to 3 slices vine-ripened tomato cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed (optional) 1 soft French roll, split and toasted 1. Generously slather both sides of roll with mayonnaise. Spread a layer of Guacamole over 1 side. Top with Carne Asada and sprinkle with lettuce. Cover other side with tomato and cilantro. Serve immediately.
1. Tear Guajillo chilies into pieces, place in a heatproof, glass measuring cup, and pour boiling water over to cover. Soak at least 30 minutes, until soft. Remove from water, discarding stems, seeds, and liquid. 2. In a blender jar, combine chilies with remaining marinade ingredients and blend until mixture is homogenous. Note: Makes enough for for up to 3 pounds of meat. Never reuse marinade. 3. Place steaks into a 1-gallon, heavy, zipper-lock bag and pour over marinade. Seal bag, and shake and turn to distribute marinade. Lay bag into a bowl and refrigerate overnight, up to 36 hours, turning and shaking from time to time. 4. Heat a gas or charcoal grill to produce a medium-hot fire. Lightly oil grill with a paper towel dipped in peanut oil. Cook steaks (2 to 3 minutes per side for skirt steak and 3 to 4 minutes per side for flank steak). Steaks will be cooked rare to medium-rare. Transfer to a platter and loosely cover with foil 5 to 7 minutes. 5. To slice skirt steak across the grain, cut in pieces about 4 inches long then cut into thin slices along the long axis of the meat. To slice flank steak, cut thin, diagonal slices across the long axis. 6. While meat is cooking, wrap tortillas in foil and heat 10 to 15 minutes in a 350F oven. Wrap in a clean dishtowel to keep warm. Meanwhile, set out bowls of garnishes. Use 2 to 3 slices of steak per taco. Let guests prepare their own tacos with their preferred garnishes.
CHIcKEN ENcHILADAS (USING 6OZ cHIcKEN): PER SERVING: CALORIES 685 (265 from fat); FAT 3 0 g ( s a t . 1 2 g ) ; CHOL 150mg; SODIUM 484mg; CARB 4 9 g ; FI B ER 8g ; PROTEIN 57g
BAJA STYLE FISH TAcOS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 522 (253 from fat); FAT 2 9 g ( s a t . 5 g ) ; CHOL 66mg; SODIUM 349mg; CARB 38g; FI BER 4g; PROTEIN 29g
BURRITOS Of LAMb IN RED MOLE SAUcE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 847 (330 from fat); FAT 3 7 g ( s a t . 1 3 g ) ; CHOL 196mg; SODIUM 2041mg; CARB 58g; FI BER 7g ; PROTEIN 68g
MEXIcAN RIcE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 394 (120 from fat); FAT 1 3 g ( s a t . 2 g ) ; CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 474mg; CARB 60g ; FI BER 3g ; PROTEIN 9g
TAcOS AL PASTOR: PER SERVING: CALORIES 500 (208 from fat); FAT 2 3 g ( s a t . 7 g ) ; CHOL 97mg; SODIUM 965mg; CARB 36g ; FI BER 6g ; PROTEIN 37g
CARNE ASADA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 315 (73 from fat); FAT 8 g ( s a t . 2 g ) ; CHOL 83mg; SODIUM 353mg; CARB 23g ; FI BER 3 g; PROTEIN 36g
NUTRITION
MEXICAN TORtAS WItH CARNE ASADA
Sandwiched in or wrapped upit's all good! Carne Asada makes delicious tortas, as shown here. To use the meat in burritos, place cup hot Mexican Rice (page 32) down center of a warm, 9-inch, flour tortilla. Sprinkle with shredded jack or Cheddar cheese and add 3 to 4 slices of meat. Top with Salsa Verde, Pico de Gallo, shredded lettuce, and cilantro. Fold in sides and roll to form a tight package.
all nutrition calculated without garnishes
Whole Grain Centerpieces

Healthy whole grains play a starring role in a global selection of main dishes. From gluten-free quinoa to new-andimproved whole-wheat pasta, eating well has never been easier.
CHIcKEN AND CAULIFLOWER VINDALOO OvER SAFFRON QUINOA (REcIPEs PAGE 42)
BY ROBIN ASBELL
PHOTOGRApHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
When you think of whole grains, do you picture a bowl of steamy oatmeal or crunchy granola? Whole grains are no longer relegated to breakfast or the dependable sidekick rolethey are taking center stage in the kitchen. Chefs are featuring ancient grains like farro and quinoa on menus like the stars they are. Enjoy the flavors and textures of whole grains the way they were meant to be. You'll actually taste their real flavors, with the added benefits of staying fuller longer and taking care of your health. When you put grains at center stage, you'll be the one getting the applause!
Chicken Breasts Stuffed with Farro and Feta

MAKEs 4 sERvINGs
Farro, an ancient grain, is the darling of Mario Batali and other Italian chefs. It's available semi-pearled, meaning the bran layer has been scraped off the sides, leaving some behind.That makes it a mostly-whole grain and quicker-cooking than truly whole farro. Give it a try in this show-stopping chicken dish.
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided cup chopped onion 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced cup semi-pearled farro 1 cups chicken stock teaspoon salt, divided 1 cup French lentils, rinsed cup crumbled feta cheese 4 boneless skinless chicken breast halves 1 teaspoon paprika rosemary sprigs
1. Lightly oil a large sheet pan. In a 1-quart saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon oil and saut onion. When golden, add rosemary and cook a few more seconds. Add farro, stock, and teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a low simmer. Cover tightly and cook per farro directions. 2. While farro cooks, prepare lentils. Rinse lentils and place in a 2-quart saucepan with 3 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer 25 to 30 minutes, until tender but not falling apart. Drain but do not rinse lentils and transfer to a large bowl. 3. While farro cools, lay out chicken on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife held parallel to board, cut from thinner side of breast into thicker part, making a flap that can be opened like a book. Repeat with all breasts, cover with a sheet of wax paper, and pound out each to make a thin sheet of chicken. 4. Measure cup farro onto each piece of chicken. Top with 1 tablespoon feta. Roll up chicken to enclose grain. Put seam side down on prepared sheet pan, with space between rolls. Dust with paprika and top each roll with a tablespoon feta. 5. Bake at 400F about 25 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into meat reads 160F. 6. While chicken bakes, combine remaining farro with lentils and drizzle in remaining oil and salt. Warm farro mixture or leave at room temperature. To serve, slice a chicken roll into three rounds and place atop cup farro mixture on each plate. Garnish with rosemary.
Farro: A Mediterranean Staple

Farro has been a mainstay in Italy for centuries and has been gaining popularity stateside. This natural source of fiber, protein, and iron is prized for its nutty flavor, slight chewy texture, and versatility as an alternative to pasta and rice.
CHIcKEN BREAsTs STUFFED WITH FARRO AND FETA
Chicken and Cauliflower Vindaloo over Saffron Quinoa

MAKEs 4 TO 6 sERvINGs
This is a streamlined version of traditional vindaloo, a tangy, spicy Indian dish. This recipe uses ground spices to make things easy and has a lower heat index for those who may not be chili-heads. All the glorious flavors infuse the sauce and soak into a bed of saffron-scented quinoa.
4 teaspoons canola oil, divided 1 small onion, chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 large jalapeos, seeded, or more to taste 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped cup apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch-wide slices 1 cups quinoa, white or three-color 2 pinches crushed saffron threads teaspoon salt 2 medium carrots, sliced 1 sliver fresh orange peel 1 pound cauliflower, cut into 1-inch florets cup chicken stock or water cup cilantro 1. In a small saut pan, heat 2 teaspoons oil and saut onion about 5 minutes, until very soft and golden. Add garlic and stir until fragrant but not browned. Remove from heat. 2. In a blender, combine cumin, coriander, pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, jalapeos, salt, and ginger. Add onion mixture and pure. When smooth, add vinegar and brown sugar process until well-mixed. Scrape into a large bowl. Add chicken and toss to coat. Marinate 2 to 24 hours. 3. Bring 3 cups water to a boil in a 4-quart saucepan over high heat. Add quinoa, saffron, salt, carrots, and orange peel, and return to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer 15 minutes, until all liquid is absorbed. 4. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in a large, wide skillet with a lid. Coat pan with oil. Drop in chicken pieces one at a time, leaving space between. Brown chicken a couple minutes per side. 5. Add cauliflower and stock, and stir to combine well. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a gentle bubble. Cover and cook 5 minutes. Uncover and stir, adding liquid as needed. Cook another 5 minutes, uncovered, stirring often, until chicken is cooked through and cauliflower is tender. Serve chicken and sauce over quinoa and sprinkle with cilantro.
Cauliflower and Brown Rice Quiche

MAKEs 6 sERvINGs
In this recipe, chewy, nutty brown rice and tender cauliflower turn into a delicious pie laced with Gruyre and herbs.This is a perfect make-ahead dishyou can cook extra rice to serve with a stir-fry tonight and make this quiche for the next day. The slices are perfect for packing in a lunch, too.
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for pan 2 cups chopped onion cup brown rice, longor short-grain 1 cups vegetable or chicken stock teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon crumbled sage 2 cups chopped cauliflower 1 medium carrot, chopped 2 cups shredded Gruyre cheese 4 large eggs 1. Heat a 2-quart heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and add oil. Add onions and saut, reducing heat as onion softens. Cook until golden and sweet. Add rice and stir, cooking until grains are fragrant and heated through. 2. Add stock, salt, thyme, and sage, and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and reduce heat to lowest setting. Cook 30 minutes, add cauliflower and carrot, cover, take off the heat and let stand 10 minutes. Uncover, fluff, and let cool about 10 minutes. 3. Preheat oven to 400F. In a large bowl, stir rice mixture with half of cheese and eggs, and scrape into a greased pie pan. Top with remaining cheese. Bake 45 minutes, until golden on top and firm to the touch. Slice and serve warm.
Quinoa Power
Gluten-free quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah) contains more than double the protein of the equivalent size serving of riceand it's considered a complete protein because it contains all eight essential amino acids.
CAULIFLOWER AND BROWN RIcE QUIcHE
Take this pasta for a twirl

Whole-wheat pasta has improved in quality in recent years, and there are many tasty options for gluten-free diners as well. Whole-grain penne holds its own when paired with a flavorful sauce, while whole-wheat angel hair can take a turn in Asian dishes as easily as it tosses with pesto and Parmesan.
Shrimp Pad Thai with Whole-Wheat Angel Hair

MAKEs 4 TO 6 sERvINGs
Spicy Sausage and Penne Al Forno

MAKEs 4 sERvINGs
Italian sausage is a convenient way to pump up the flavor and spice in your dinner. Combined with olives, anchovies, and red wine, it will more than hold its own alongside sturdy whole-wheat penne. A quick bake makes this dish pure comfort food, with a toasty cheese topping.
12 ounces Italian sausage, chopped or crumbled 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 2 cloves garlic, chopped teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon anchovy paste 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice cup tomato paste cup red wine cup Italian black olives, chopped 8 ounces whole-wheat penne teaspoon salt 2 cups kale, packed 2 cups shredded Asiago cheese 1. Lightly oil a 2-quart baking dish. Line a medium bowl with paper towels for sausage. Preheat oven to 400F. 2. Heat a large skillet and cook sausage, stirring, over medium-high heat. When cooked through, use a slotted spoon to transfer sausage to prepared bowl. Pour off fat in pan. 3. Add oil to pan and heat a few seconds. Add onion and stir, scraping up any browned bits. When softened, after about 3 minutes, add garlic, red pepper flakes, and anchovy paste, and stir, crushing paste to mix well. Add tomatoes and bring to a boil. 4. In a cup or bowl, mix tomato paste and wine to a smooth paste. Stir into tomato mixture and add olives and salt. Return to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer about 5 minutes. Stir in kale, which will wilt in the hot sauce, then take off the heat. 5. Cook penne until almost al dente and drain. In prepared baking dish, toss pasta with sausage and half of cheese. Top with tomato mixture and remaining cheese. 6. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until pasta is bubbling around edges and cheese is golden. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.
Rice noodles are wonderfully light, but if you want a great whole-grain entre, try making Asian favorites with wholewheat pasta. Angel hair has the advantages of a very fast cooking time and a fine, thin shape nobody will suspect of being whole grain.
4 tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce 3 tablespoons lime juice 2 tablespoons palm sugar 2 tablespoons canola oil 2 large shallots, sliced 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped ginger 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined pound whole-wheat angel-hair pasta 3 eggs 4 large scallions, white and green parts, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 package (8 ounces) bean sprouts cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped cup cilantro, coarsely chopped 1. Cook pasta per directions. Mix fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar in a small bowl and reserve. 2. In a wok or large saut pan, heat oil over high heat, add shallots, garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes , and stir-fry until fragrant. Add shrimp and stir-fry until pink and nearly cooked through, about 4 minutes. 3. Add eggs and lime mixture, stirring a few seconds. Add pasta, scallions, and half of sprouts. Stir-fry gently until egg is cooked and pan is dry. 4. Serve immediately, topped with remaining sprouts, peanuts, and cilantro.
SPIcY SAUsAGE AND PENNE AL FORNO
SHRImP PAD THAI WITH WHOLE-WHEAT ANGEL HAIR
CHIcKEN BREASTS STUFFED W. FARRO & FETA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 521 (129 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 4g); CHOL 81mg; SODIUM 668mg; CARB 53g; FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 47g
CHIcKEN & CAULIFLOWER VINDALOO W. QUINOA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 411 (96 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 2g); CHOL 56mg; SODIUM 589mg; CARB 48g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 31g
CAULIFLOWER & BROWN RIcE QUIcHE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 344 (162 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 8g); CHOL 164mg; SODIUM 418mg; CARB 27g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 18g
SPIcY SAUSAGE & PENNE AL FORNO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 837 (402 from fat); FAT 45g (sat. 21g); CHOL 93mg; SODIUM 2188mg; CARB 69g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 38g
SHRIMP PAD THAI W. WHOLE-WHEAT ANGEL HAIR: PER SERVING: CALORIES 496 (177 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 3g); CHOL 204mg; SODIUM 1896mg; CARB 54g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 32g
NUTRITION
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crAFt CULTURE
BY JANET FLETCHER
THE BEER:
American Pale Ale
Craft beer and artisan cheese are age-old pleasures known for their intense and unique flavors. In her book, Cheese & Beer, author and longtime San Francisco Chronicle cheese columnist Janet Fletcher pairs the most popular craft brew styles with their cultured counterparts.
For many craft-beer enthusiasts, American pale ales offer the most appealing integration of hops, malt, and alcohol. Typically, these brews exhibit plenty of up-front hops aroma without being aggressively floral or piney. They finish with brisk bitterness, but never enough to curl your tongue. Malt shores up the middle, yet they dont smell sugary or finish sweet. They have enough alcohol to give them bodytypically, 4.5 to 6 percent alcoholbut not enough to make them unwise at lunch. Carbonation is usually moderate, on the cusp of crisp and creamy. Pale ales have proven so popular with consumers that most American craft breweries have released one at some point. Although patterned after English pale ales, the American efforts tend to be bigger and brassier, often with the citrusy scent of American hops, some grassy notes from dry hopping (steeping hops in the beer after fermentation to extract aromatics), and higher alcohol. These well-balanced ales are pale only in relation to the dark ales that prevailed in the days when malt roasting was more primitive and less controllable. Pale ales range in color from deep gold to pale amber to burnished copper. Many if not most are filtered and clear, but some are unfiltered and consequently hazy. BEERS TO TRY: Bells Pale Ale; Boulevard Pale Ale; Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale; Firestone Walker DBA (Double Barrel Ale); Grand Teton Sweetgrass APA; Great Divide DPA (Denver Pale Ale); Moylans Tipperary Pale Ale; North Coast Brewing Acme Pale Ale; Oskar Blues Dales Pale Ale; Sierra Nevada Pale Ale; Stone Brewing Pale Ale.
Make a Match
WITH FRESH UNRIPENED OR LIGHTLY RIPENED cHEESE burrata, Crescenza, fresh chevre, fromage blanc, mozzarella, ricotta, Stracchino, Teleme TRY kolsch or blonde ale, pilsner, wheat beer
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CHEESE AFFINITIES: Although pale ales are impressively versatile and dont clash with many cheeses, they shine with cheeses that are as full flavored and balanced as they are. Turn to firm cheeses with the savoriness and concentration that emerge with age, such as Cheddar and Manchego. Pale ales stand up to cheeses with herbs and spices, especially peppercorns, but many blue cheeses seem to rob these ales of some sparkle. And young, soft, buttery cheeses like triplecreams and robiolas tend to be overshadowed by pale ales robust hoppiness. THE BEER:
AMerICAN PALe ALe
WITH bLOOmY-RIND cOw'S mILK cHEESE Brie, Camembert, Jasper Hill Constant Bliss, Mt. Townsend Seastack, Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill TRY American pale ale, Belgian-style pale ale, biere de Champagne, biere de garde, Maibock, porter, saison, sour ale, stout
Stout, Porter, and Imperial Stout
WITH bLOOmY-RIND GOaT'S mILK cHEESE Bucherondin, Cypress Grove, Humboldt Fog, Monte Enebro, Redwood Hill Camellia and Cameo, Vermont Butter & Cheese Bijou and Coupole TRY American pale ale, IPA
PHOTOGRApHY ED ANDERSON
WITH TRIPLE-cREam cHEESE Brillat-Savarin, Cowgirl Creamery Mt.Tam, Delice de Bourgogne, Nancy's Hudson Valley Camembert, Nettle Meadow Kunik, Pierre Robert, Rouge et Noir Triple Creme Brie, Seal Bay Triple Cream Brie TRY Belgian-style strong golden ale, pilsner, sour ale, tripel
Stouts and porters owe their dark color and layered aromas to deeply roasted barley malt. The hues on these brews range from over-steeped tea to inky espresso, and their alluring scents elicit descriptors like toast, toffee, raisins, molasses, coffee, Kahla, and chocolate. Despite these dessert-like aromas, porters and stouts often (but not always) finish dry. Many of these beers exhibit little or no hops aroma, although American stouts and Imperial stouts may show some. Moderate hops bitterness helps balance the mouth-filling malt, and a little bitterness may also come from the heavy roasting. Some recipes even incorporate roasted coffee beans or brewed coffee. For oatmeal stout, the brewer adds a small portion of oats to the grist, the ground grains that supply the sugar for fermentation. Oats contribute a particularly creamy texture to the finished brew and help generate a fluffy, voluptuous head the color of caf au lait. The term stout derives from stout porter, historically a stronger, more alcoholic rendition of traditional English porter. The typical English or American
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porter is moderate in alcohol, in the 4 to 5 percent range, and modern stout is often not much stronger. But Imperial stout, sometimes called Russian Imperial stout, is another matter. These massive brews are often quite potent, from 8 to 12 percent alcohol, and everything else about them verges on extreme, too. They can look almost like chocolate syrup, opaque and mysterious, with a thick foam the color of an espressos crema. Expect heady, spirituous aromas, perhaps mingling dried fruit, coffee liqueur, vanilla, and bittersweet chocolatea panoply of scents as sensuous as a chocolate-covered raspberry. An Imperial stout is a fireside beer for a cold winters night and an ideal companion for robust cheeses. BEERS TO TRY: Stout and Porter: AleSmith Speedway Stout; Bear Republic Big Bear Black; Boulevard Brewing Bully! Porter; Carnegie Porter; Deschutes Brewery Black Butte Porter; Dogfish Head World Wide Stout; Eel River Brewing Organic Porter; Firestone Velvet Merlin Oatmeal Stout; Founders Brewing KBS (Kentucky Breakfast Stout); Fullers London Porter; Marin Brewing Point Reyes Porter; Meantime Brewing Coffee Porter; Moylans Dragoons Dry Irish Stout; Samuel Smiths Oatmeal Stout; Samuel Smiths Taddy Porter; Sierra Nevada Porter. Imperial Stout and Imperial Porter: Brooklyn Brewery Black Chocolate Stout; Deschutes Obsidian Stout; Dieu du Ciel Pch Mortel Imperial Coffee Stout; Grand Teton Brewing Black Cauldron Imperial Stout; Great Divide Brewing Yeti Imperial Stout; Napa Smith Bonfire Imperial Porter; North Coast Brewing Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout; Port Brewing Santas Little Helper; Stone Brewing Imperial Russian Stout. CHEESE AFFINITIES: This well-populated beer category embraces a broad style range that makes cheese recommendations especially challenging. Is the stout dry or syrupy sweet? Is it moderate in alcohol and medium bodied, or as viscous as maple syrup? Even mellow blue cheeses can vanquish some dry stouts, for example, while an Imperial stout, with its alcoholic power and residual sugar, doesnt bow to many blues. The stronger and sweeter the beer, the more robust the cheese can be. In most cases, the malt-forward character of stout and porter complements cheeses with nutty or brown-butter aromas, and cheeses that leave a subtle sweet impression. The alpine wheels of France and Switzerlandsuch as Beaufort and Gruyrecome to mind on both counts. Buttery, relatively mild blue cheeses and creamy, mellow Cheddars can be good matches, but be wary of assertive blues with dry stouts and porters. Aged Goudas, with their candylike butterscotch and salted-caramel flavors, need the heft of an Imperial stout or Imperial porter for balance. Triple-cream cheeses complement the texture of these smooth, silky brews and can be as pleasurable with a stouts mocha flavors as cream in coffee. Mature Comt, aged for a year or more, has riveting depth of flavor. With profound aromas of roasted hazelnuts, sauted onion, and bacon and a lingering aftertaste of butter and cream, it is a far more engaging cheese than the young supermarket Comt that many shoppers use for sandwiches. Produced from raw cows milk in the Jura Mountains of eastern France, the hefty, 80-pound wheels of Comt may be sold as young as four months, but twelve to twentyfour months brings them to greatness. A deep-yellow to gold paste is one sign of a more mature cheese, but a big meaty fragrance and concentrated sweet flavor are the real giveaways. A nutty aged Comt heightens the roasted-grain character of stouts and porters and has enough intensity to partner the highalcohol Imperial brews.
Make a Match
WITH aGED GOaT'S mILK cHEESE Capriole Julianna, Garrotxa, Juniper Grove Tumalo Tomme, Patacabra, Tumalo Farms Pondhopper TRY American pale ale, bock or doppelbock, brown ale, IPA, Maibock, Marzen or Oktoberfest, porter
MORE CHEESES TO TRY: With stout or porter: Beaufort; Berkswell; Bleu dAuvergne; Brillat-Savarin; Challerhocker; Coolea; Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam; Ewephoria; Garrotxa; Gruyre; Hooks 5-Year Cheddar; Jean Grogne; Lamb Chopper; St. Agur; Vermont Butter & Cheese Cremont; Willamette Valley Farmstead Gouda. With Imperial stout or Imperial porter: Abbaye de Belloc; LAmuse Gouda; Beechers Flagship Reserve; Beemster XO; Challerhocker; Fourme dAmbert; Stichelton; Stilton.
WITH aLPINE-STYLE cOw'S mILK cHEESE Appenzeller, Beaufort, Comte, Fontina Val d'Aosta, Gruyere, Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Spring Brook Farm Tarentaise, Tete de Moine TRY amber lager or California common, Belgian-style strong golden ale, biere de garde, bock or doppelbock, brown ale, dubbel, porter, saison, stout or Imperial stout
WITH HaRD aGED cOw'S mILK cHEESE Asiago, Caerphilly, Parmigiano Reggiano, Piave, Vella Dry Jack TRY amber lager or California common, biere de garde, bitter or ESB, saison
WITH aGED SHEEP'S mILK cHEESE Abbaye de Belloc, Carr Valley Marisa, Manchego, Ombra, Pecorino Toscano, Roncal, Vermont Shepherd, Zamorano TRY amber or red ale, brown ale, holiday ale, Marzen or Oktoberfest, tripel
WITH waSHED-RIND cHEESE Chi may, Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk, Crave Brothers Les Frres, Durrus, Epoisses, Livarot, MouCo ColoRouge, Munster, Widmer Brick, Jasper Hill Farm Winnimere TRY barley wine, Belgian-style pale ale, Belgian-style strong golden ale, dubbel, tripel
WITH CHEDDaR aND CHEDDaR-STYLE cHEESE Beecher's Flagship Reserve, Beehive Promontory, Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, Fiscalini Cheddar, Hook's Cheddar, Keen's Cheddar, Montgomery's Cheddar TRY amber or red ale, American pale ale, barley wine, bitter or ESB, IPA, Marzen or Oktoberfest, porter, sour ale, stout
IMPerIAL StOUt
THE BEER:
Amber Lager and California Common
Make a Match
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MORE CHEESES TO TRY: Capriole Julianna; Fiscalini San Joaquin Gold; Garrotxa; Montasio; Montcabrer; Murcia al Vino (Drunken Goat); Piave; Juniper Grove Farm Tumalo Tomme.
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Malt makes the first impression in amber lager and California common, related styles with many similarities and a few key differences. In both color and aroma, these beers show the influence of caramel malts: a darker hue (typically amber to copper), fuller body, richer flavor, and toastier aroma than one finds in a pilsner or standard American lager. Both of these styles hover around 5 percent alcohol, moderate enough for midday enjoyment. Any higher and they would be venturing into bock territory. Hops aroma may or may not be apparent; the most famous California common Anchor Steamshows some. Bitterness balances the malty sweetness and boosts the refreshment value, although neither style is ever aggressively bitter. Amber lagers typically tally below 30 IBUs; California commons can climb higher. Other differences reflect the hybrid nature of California commons. Although made with lager yeast, these beers arent strictly lagers. Custom calls for fermenting them at the warm temperatures used for ales, so the finished brew tends to have more of the fruity aromas that ale fermentations elicit. This offbeat process emerged out of necessity, not by design. California common traces its origin to the Golden States gold rush, when fortune-seekers came west in droves. These thirsty prospectors wanted to brew lager but lacked the necessary ice or refrigeration. So they improvised with lager yeasts and shallow fermenters to keep the wort cool. Their adaptations yielded what came to be known as steam beera highly effervescent brew that fused lager ingredients with ale technique. Some trace the origins of the name to the steam-whistle sound the kegs made when tapped. Others say these gold rush beers were fermented on cool San Francisco rooftops, and when the fog lifted in the morning, steam would rise. Anchor Steam, still brewed in San Francisco, has preserved and popularized this style. Today, steam is a registered trademark of the Anchor Brewing Company, so other brews made in that fashion are marketed as California common. BEERS TO TRY: Abita Amber; Anchor Steam; Brooklyn Lager; Flat Earth Brewing Element 115; Flying Dog Brewery Old Scratch Amber Lager; Samuel Adams Boston Lager; Steamworks Steam Engine Lager. CHEESE AFFINITIES: These malt-forward beers appreciate cheeses with a hint of sweetness, although not the full-blown caramel flavor of, say, an aged Gouda. Asiago, Piave, and similar aged cows milk cheeses come to mind. Moderate in alcohol, bitterness, and intensity, amber lager and California common pair better with mellow cheeses than with sharp, stinky, tangy, or otherwise extreme types. Extra-Aged Asiago from Sartori, a Wisconsin producer, does not have the peppery bite you might expect in a year-old wheel of this type. Instead, the extra time in the cellar renders this cows milk cheese more nutty and mellow. Straw to pale gold in color, with a Cheddar-like appearance, it feels crumbly on the tongue at first but dissolves to a creamy, almost buttery finish. The nuttiness reinforces the toasted-malt aroma of amber lager and California common; and the moderate flavor intensity of cheese and beer align.
WITH GOUDa aND GOUDa-STYLE cHEESE L'Amuse Gouda, Beemster XO, Boerenkaas, Leiden, Marieke Gouda, Mimolette, Tumalo Farms Classico TRY amber ale, biere de Champagne, brown ale, dubbel, holiday ale, Marzen or Oktoberfest, porter, quadrupel, stout
WITH bLUE cHEESE (mELLOw aND bUTTERY) Bleu d'Auvergne, Cashel Blue, Fourme d'Ambert,Jasper Hill Bayley Hazen Blue, Shropshire Blue, Stichelton, Stilton TRY barley wine, doppelbock, dub bel, Maibock, porter, stout or Imperial stout, quadrupel
WITH bLUE cHEESE (PIQUaNT aND SPIcY) Great Hill Blue, Rogue Caveman Blue, Rogue River Blue, Shepherd's Way Big Woods Blue, Valden TRY barley wine, dub bel, holiday ale, Imperial stout, quadrupel
AMber LAGer
PhOtOS AND COPY FrOM CHEESE & BEER bY JANet FLetCher. PhOtOGrAPhY bY eD ANDerSON; COPYrIGht 2013 ANDreWS MCMeeL PUbLIShING, LLC
BIbIMbAP-STYLE SPINACH RICE AND SPICY BEEF (rECIPE PAGE 55)
ONE-PoT WoNDERS
BY MOLLY STEVENs
A World of
One-pot meals are the ultimate cool-weather comfort food. From mouthwateringly tender stews to deeply flavored casseroles, these hearty and soulful dishes bring everyone around the table in the casual spirit of sharing. Best of all, much of the work can be done ahead, leaving little to do after youve eaten but wash the single pot, slide the plates into the dishwasher, and bask in the satisfaction of a delicious dinner. If your impression of one-pot dishes is that they are convenient but not exactly exciting, then its time to look again. The recipes here take their inspiration from all corners of the worldplaces such as Asia, Latin America, and the Mediterranean. The results? Delicious family dishes impressive enough to serve at your next dinner party.
PHOTOGRApHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS fall 2013 real food 53
Cuban Pork and Pepper Stew with Black Beans

MAKEs 4 sErVINGs
Cooks Note
To get the best flavor from cumin (and many other spices), toast whole seeds and grind them yourself. Heres how: Place seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat and toast, shaking the pan, about 2 minutes, until fragrant and slightly darker in color. Let cool slightly. Grind using an electric spice grinder or mortar and pestle. A little bit of flour in the recipe helps to thicken the stew. If you choose to leave it out, the stew will be slightly thinner, but every bit as flavorful.
This colorful stew combines tender chunks of pork with the tropical flavors of citrus, cumin, and peppers. Serve straight up or ladled over ricein which case, it will feed more hungry mouths. Leftover stew is easily made into a world-class breakfast: Spoon a small portion of warm stew onto a plate, top it with a poached egg or two, and serve with soft, sweet bread or biscuits (and plenty of strong coffee, of course).
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 pounds pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks 1 large onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 to 2 jalapeos, cored, seeded, and minced 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon ground oregano 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (optional) 3 bell peppers (about 1 pound), preferably a mix of colors, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces 2 poblano peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped 1 bay leaf 1 wide strip orange zest, removed with a vegetable peeler cup fresh orange juice cup fresh lime juice, divided 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 15-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves, chopped, plus sprigs for garnish to cup sour cream to cup salsa 1. Heat oil in a large, heavy-based pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season pork with salt and pepper. Brown pork in batches (so as not to crowd pan), about 8 minutes, turning with tongs halfway through, until nicely browned on all sides. Transfer to a bowl. 2. Reduce heat to medium and add onion and a pinch of salt. Saut, stirring, about 8 minutes, until onion is soft and golden. Add garlic, jalapeos, cumin, and oregano. Stir and cook 2 minutes, until fragrant. 3. Sprinkle flour over onions and stir to incorporate. Gradually pour in orange juice and cup lime juice, stirring as you go. Stir in bell peppers, poblano peppers, bay leaf, and orange zest, and season with salt and pepper. 4. Return pork to pot, along with any juices that have accumulated. Add broth and beans, stir to combine, and bring to a gentle simmer. Partially cover, reduce heat to a gentle simmer, and cook about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until pork is tender. 5. Stir in cilantro. Season with a few drops lime juice and add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls, topping each with a dollop sour cream, a tablespoon salsa, and a sprig cilantro.
Bibimbap-Style Spinach Rice and Spicy Beef

MAKEs 4 TO 5 sErVINGs
This colorful meal delivers the flavors of a traditional Korean rice pot with only a fraction of the work. While authentic bibimbap requires a multitude of individual garnishes, here everything cooks together to create an exciting and deeply satisfying dish.
3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil 1 chopped onion 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 pound ground beef 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger 1 teaspoon ground chili paste, or to taste, plus more for serving 5 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps thickly sliced 1 bunch scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced 2 cups long-grain white rice 1 bunch leaf spinach, any thick stems removed, chopped (preferably not baby spinach) 1 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 cups fresh mung bean sprouts daikon radish, peeled and thinly sliced (or 1 bunch red radishes, trimmed) 1 to 2 cups kimchee, mild or hot 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 1. Combine 2 tablespoons oil and onion in a heavy-based stew pot or Dutch oven (preferably around 4-quart capacity) over medium heat. Saut about 6 minutes, until just beginning to soften. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute, until fragrant. Add beef, breaking up with a wooden spoon, and season with teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring often, about 10 minutes, until beef is cooked through. 2. Turn off heat and stir in soy sauce, sugar, and teaspoon chili paste (or to taste). Use a slotted spoon to transfer beef to
CUbAN POrK AND PEPPEr STEW WITH BLACK BEANs
a bowl, cover, and set aside in a warm spot. Do not rinse pot. 3. Return pot to medium heat. Add remaining tablespoon oil, mushrooms, and most of scallions, reserving some of green parts for garnish. Stir and saut about 3 minutes, until vegetables begin to cook. Add rice, spinach, 1 teaspoon salt, and teaspoon chili paste. Stir and cook until spinach has wilted. 4. Add 3 cups water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 15 to 18 minutes, until all liquid is absorbed. Gently fluff with a fork. Drizzle with sesame oil. Shape a well in center, spoon in beef, cover, and let stand 10 minutes. 5. To serve, spoon into large bowls, topping each with bean sprouts, kimchee, radish, sesame seeds, reserved scallion greens, and a dab of chili paste to taste.
Cooks Note
A staple of the Korean diet, kimchee is a fiery pickled vegetable. The most popular versions are based on Napa (Chinese) cabbage and take several days to ferment. Fortunately, there are many good-tasting options available in most produce departments. You can also make a quick version that can stand in for the traditional. Heres how: Quarter and slice a small head of Napa cabbage into 1-inch pieces to yield about 8 cups. Place in a large saucepan with 3 tablespoons water and 2 minced garlic cloves. Season with salt and simmer over medium heat about 5 minutes, tossing with tongs, until just wilted. Add 1 to 2 grated carrots and season to taste with toasted sesame oil, white vinegar, a pinch of sugar, and chili paste. Let cool. Serve the same day; unlike authentic kimchee, this will lose its crunch as it sits.
1 teaspoon crushed fennel seed pinch crumbled saffron threads 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into -inch dice 1 24-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice 2 cups fish broth or clam juice 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water cup black or green olives, pitted and slivered 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined (or pound peeled shrimp 1 pound cod or halibut, cut into 1-inch chunks pound sea scallops, halved horizontally cup fresh basil leaves, chopped and divided 1. H eat oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add onion, celery, and shallots, and season with salt and pepper. Saut, stirring frequently, about 8 minutes, until vegetables soften and begin to turn golden. 2. A dd garlic, red pepper flakes, fennel seed, saffron, and several grinds of black pepper. Saut 3 minutes, stirring a few times, until fragrant. Stir in tomato paste until evenly combined. Pour in wine, scraping bottom of pot with a wooden spoon, and bring to a boil. Boil 2 minutes. 3. A dd potatoes, tomatoes, fish broth, and chicken broth, and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir to combine and simmer, uncovered, about 15 minutes, until potatoes are just tender. Add olives and capers. Add salt and pepper to taste. The recipe can be made ahead until this point. Let sit at room temperature up to an hour or cool and refrigerate up to 2 days. 4. T o finish stew, season all seafood with salt and pepper. Bring stew to a simmer until heated through then reduce heat so stew barely simmers. Add shrimp, stirring gently to combine. Cook about 3 minutes, until shrimp begin to turn pink. Stir in cod, scallops, and half of basil, stirring gently so as not to break up fish. Heat about 5 minutes, until fish is cooked through. Ladle into bowls, topping each with a bit of basil and a thin thread of oil. Serve immediately.
MEDITErrANEAN SEAFOOD AND POTATO STEW
Mediterranean Seafood and Potato Stew

MAKEs 6 sErVINGs
This tomato-based seafood stew brings the flavors of the sunsoaked Mediterranean to any table. Keep in mind that a good seafood stew depends entirely on the quality of the seafood, so buy the freshest you can find. A mix of shrimp, cod, and scallops provides a tasty balance, but feel free to substitute whatever looks best. Serve with crusty garlic bread.
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving 1 large onion, chopped 2 chopped celery stalks 2 shallots, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or more to taste
Cooks Note
A quick way to make bottled clam juice taste more like homemade fish broth is to briefly simmer it with shrimp shells. After peeling 1 pound shell-on shrimp, combine shells and 2 cups clam juice in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, reduce heat, and simmer gently 10 minutes. Strain, pushing down on shrimp shells to extract all liquid. Discard shells and pour broth into a glass measuring cup. Add enough water to return volume to 2 cups (you will likely lose some from simmering).
Vegetable Moussaka
MAKEs 6 sErVINGs
This update of the classic Greek lamb and eggplant casserole forgoes the usual meat and boosts the flavor quotient with a vegetable-packed tomato sauce and some feta crumbled into the creamy topping.There are a few steps to making all the components for this dish, but all the work can be done in advance so all you need to do is pop it in the oven when the time comes.
3 pounds eggplant, trimmed and sliced into -inch-thick rounds 1 pounds zucchini, trimmed and sliced into -inch-thick rounds cup extra virgin olive oil, or as needed 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped into -inch pieces 1 large carrot, chopped 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried mint teaspoon ground cinnamon 8 teaspoon ground allspice 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice teaspoon salt plus more to taste pepper to taste 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cups milk 2 large egg yolks cup crumbled feta cheese cup fresh breadcrumbs cup grated manchego cheese 1. Arrange eggplant on clean dishtowels and sprinkle both sides generously with salt. Spread zucchini in a large colander and toss with salt. Let stand 25 to 40 minutes, until salt drains moisture from vegetables. 2. Preheat oven to 450F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Blot dry zucchini and toss with 1 tablespoon oil. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast 15 to 20 minutes, flipping halfway through, until browned and tender. Transfer to a plate or bowl. 3. Blot dry eggplant and arrange in a single layer on baking sheets (you will need to do this in batches; keep in mind you can reuse parchment paper). Brush both sides lightly with oil and roast about 25 minutes, flipping halfway through, until tender and browned in spots. Set aside to cool. (If finishing dish right way, reduce oven temperature to 350F.) 4. For the tomato sauce: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion, season with a pinch of salt, and saut, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes, until golden. Add garlic, bell pepper, carrot, oregano, mint, cinnamon, allspice, and another pinch of salt. Stir to combine, cover, and let stew, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes, until vegetables are soft. Add tomato paste, stirring to combine, and add tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and let cook about 10 minutes to combine flavors. Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside. 5. For the sauce topping: In a saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Whisk in flour and cook about 1 minute, until evenly incorporated. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Bring to a simmer, whisking often, and let simmer about 3 minutes, until thickened. Season with teaspoon salt (or to taste) and plenty of black pepper. Whisk egg yolks in a medium bowl and gradually add thickened milk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent yolks from curdling. Whisk in feta. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine breadcrumbs and manchego cheese. 6. To assemble: Arrange one-third of eggplant slices in a 9-by13-inch baking dish. Top with half of zucchini and half of tomato sauce. Sprinkle on half breadcrumb mixture. Continue with a second layer of eggplant, remaining zucchini, remaining tomato sauce, and breadcrumbs. Top with a final layer of eggplant and evenly spread sauce topping over casserole. This recipe can be made ahead up to this point, covered with plastic, and refrigerated up to 24 hours. Let the casserole sit at room temperature, uncovered, while you preheat the oven. 7. Preheat oven to 350F. Bake uncovered in middle of oven about 45 minutes, until top is lightly golden and edges are bubbly (slightly longer if casserole was refrigerated).
Cooks Note
To make a meaty moussaka, crumble pound fresh Italian sausage (sweet or hot), ground lamb, or ground beef into onions for tomato sauce. Heat until cooked through and beginning to brown before proceeding with recipe. Alternatively, add 2 to 4 cups chopped roast lamb or beef to tomato sauce before assembling casserole.
NUTRITION
VEGETAbLE MOUssAKA
CUBAn PORK AnD PEppER STEW WITH BLAcK BEAns: PER SERVING: CALORIES 781 (409 from fat); FAT 46g (sat. 16g); CHOL 164mg; SODIUM 567mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 54g
BIBIMBAp-STYLE SpInAcH RIcE AnD SpIcY BEEF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 786 (272 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 8g); CHOL 71mg; SODIUM 581mg; CARB 94g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 34g
MEDITERRAnEAn SEAFOOD AnD POTATO STEW: PER SERVING: CALORIES 342 (91 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 2g); CHOL 123mg; SODIUM 1177mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 33g
VEGETABLE MOUssAKA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 436 (243 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 11g); CHOL 106mg; SODIUM 765mg; CARB 38g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 15g
Art, Cook, Memory

Alex Guarnaschelli Goes Old-School
BY TARA Q. THOMAS
Alex Guarnaschelli doesnt do things halfway. The executive chef of Butter and The Darby in New York City as well as a Food Network Iron Chef, a judge on Chopped, and the star of Alexs Day Off, Guarnaschelli knew the day she graduated from college that she was going to be a chef. It was May 15, 1991, she recalls. When I woke up, I thought, by the end of today youll know what you want to do with your life, she says. And it was that day I decided to be a chef.
Mind you, shed never set foot in a professional kitchen before then; shed been studying art history at Barnard. And she didnt start small when she went to realize her decision: She walked into An American Placethe restaurant that sealed Larry Forgiones reputation as one of Americas greatest chefsand talked her way behind a stove. And stayed for the next year and a half. That was just the beginning of a wild ride through some very impressive kitchens: She went on to spend five years working for the legendary chef Guy Savoy in Paris, and logged time in Boulud in New York and Patina in Los Angeles. These are brutal places, the sort that make mincemeat of anyone without a motherlode of grit and determination, not to mention talentall prerequisites for turning out the caliber of cuisine that they do. Now she presides over two of the hottest restaurants in New York, and was in the process of opening another Butter in midtown when I talked to her this spring. For, as impressive as her 12-year rocket-like rise from art history major to rock-star chef is, shed just released her first cookbook, Old-School Comfort Fooda move that may well be her bravest to date. To understand why, you have to know her mother. Maria Guarnaschelli is a legendary cookbook editor, revered for her intensity and expertise; shes the woman behind classics such as Julie Sahnis Classic Indian Cooking; Barbara Tropps The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking and Rose Levy Beranbaums The Cake Bible, as well as classics-in-the-making, like Maricel Presillas Gran Cocina Latina, an exhaustively comprehensive tome that took the James Beard Foundations Cookbook of the Year award this past May.
ROASTED SQUASH SOUP WITH POPCOrN (rECIPE PAGE 63)
THE DArby
G
A COOKBOOK OFFERS a UNIQUE EXPERIENCE OF aN IMaGE aND a WaY TO MaKE THE IMaGE COME TO LIFE.
Alex Guarnaschelli
uarnaschelli remembers clearly each book her mother worked on, as, she explains, She approaches every book as if its a Ph.D. dissertation. Sahnis book was a year of nonstop Indian food; then there was a fattening spell of northern Italian pastas and soups, with Lynne Rosetto Kaspers The Splendid Table. If there was a break in a theme, it was because her dad was cooking; Chinese food was his hobby, and he pursued it with such diligence that, rather than taking the subway down to Chinatown for a perfectly golden, deliciously crisp-skinned duck (as most New Yorkers are perfectly happy to do), he hung one to dry for three days in their apartment. She remembers this vividly, as it whacked her in the head while she was practicing to be a Rocketteher dream as an eight-year-old. So you can imagine some apprehension when it came to writing a cookbook. But cookbooks mean a lot to her; she has an apartment full of them, from old titles found among the floor-to-ceiling shelves at Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks in the West Village to the latest chef-ly titles at Kitchen Arts & Letters up on Lexington and 93rd Street. Why? Its still my number one way of seeking inspiration. I refer to them all the time, looking for recipes, for ideas, she says. A cookbook offers a unique experience of an image and a way to make the image come to life, she says, an experience far different than the restaurant, where diners can only guess how the food on their plate came to be. But also, she adds, To me, every cookbook is like a painting made by an artist; its a way to get to know people. In the end, she took a completely different approach than any of her mothers most famous books (and, just for the record, her mother had no hand in it; as she says, If your father was Steven Spielberg, you wouldnt show him the first cuts of your
movie, right?) Instead, whats shes compiled is a loose chronicle of the moments that sparked her curiosity and hungerthe taste of one of her dads spare ribs pilfered from the pan before dinner, before she was even tall enough to see over the stove; the first bite of her moms meatloaf, tweaked with sour cream and tarragon; the leeks vinaigrette she ate at a Parisian bistro. Alongside those early memories, she includes other, more chef-ly ones, too, like bacon-wrapped pork chopsa recipe inspired by a dish she made at Daniel that involved many variations on the same ingredient. Or a salad she puts in the oven, a riff on a dish from Guy Savoy. Its an eclectic mix, yet somehow it all hangs together; her dads mackerel recipe in which the fish is delivered into a hot pan waiting in the oven with a football-like passbacks up against a broiled bluefish, bacon, and corn dish that sounds like it could have come straight off the menu at Forgiones An American Place. Read the side notes (on the next page) and youll get a sense of the rigor she internalized from her parentsthis is a woman who specifies that she prefers Diamond Crystal Salt over Mortons, as she finds it categorically less salty; specifies when to use curly parsley and when to go for flat-leaf, and parses the unique qualities of a wide array of vinegars with the sensitivity of a wine critic. (When you grow up with 12 different types of vinegar in the cupboard, it doesnt seem so strange to you, she explains.) But is it comfort food? Well, she says, theres no macncheese; there are duck hearts, she admits. But it is absolutely nostalgic, a paean to all the people and all the dishes that shaped the cook she became, from the aunt who grew the tomatoes that she foraged on hands and knees at age eight, to the cherry, pasilla chile and vanilla custard chart that sealed her win as an Iron Chef. Comfort comes in many guises, she says. And though every reader might not find as much comfort as she does in a deeply toasted English muffin topped with a sun-warmed tomato and some extra-sharp cheddar, or an extravagantly rich French onion soup, theres ample comfort in reading her stories and recipes, each bringing to life the power of flavor and scent to make memories.
Theres a funny story behind this soup. When Guarnaschelli first started at Butter, it was designed as the sort of spot New York City sees a lot of: a beautiful space for beautiful people, with a generically global menu she inherited from the opening chef. She gave it two years. But one day she had an epiphany (or you might call it a nervous breakdown), and detoured to the farmers market on the way to work. I couldnt do it anymore, she says. I wanted to cook food I wanted to eat. I applied the shopping philosophy that I live byshop locally to support farmersto the restaurant. From that first taxicab full of carrots and kale and beets in rainbow hues, she made the menu hers. The ingredients took over, she says. Im not any health guru, Im not going to say you should be drinking soy lattes and running by the river. But I get a kick out of the fact that using local ingredients and celebrating seasonality and being earthy-friendly incidentally leads to serving the most delicious stuff. This soupone of the restaurants most popular dishescame out of a desire to make use of the panoply of squashes available at the farmers market. The honest truth is that butternut is just one of many squashes we use for it; we just had to call it Butternut Squash Soup because the actual name would be Kuri-KabochaDelicato-Acorn-Turban she jokes. So feel free to go nuts with the squash selection. Its what Guarnaschelli would do.
Roasted Squash Soup with Popcorn

MAkES 8 TO 10 SErVINGS
I have been serving this soup at Butter for about eight years. Some people take it pretty seriously. One night a sweet couple walked into the restaurant without a reservation and asked for two bowls of the soup. Turns out, that day, I had made some roasted lentil soup with smoked ham hocks instead. When they heard that, they stood up, put on their coats, and told the waiter: Give the chef a message: When she is ready to make the soup, well be back to eat it! And they walked out! That sealed it into tradition. I am particularly in love with any type of squash with a dark green skin, such as kabocha. I also love combining kuri or Hokkaido squash with the old workhorse butternut. Go rogue at the supermarket. Try some squash youve never tried before. Squash are like people; each kind offers something special and unique. One note, though: This recipe changes depending on the squash you use. Dont be afraid to tinker with the flavor by adding more or less sugar or garlic or molasses accordingly.
teaspoon ground cinnamon 6 pounds butternut or other teaspoon ground cloves winter squash (2 large or grated zest and juice of 1 orange 3 medium butternut) 2 tablespoons Worcestershire 12 tablespoons (1 sticks) sauce, plus more if needed unsalted butter 2 garlic cloves, grated 2 tablespoons packed dark brown 2 cups skim milk sugar 1 cup heavy cream 3 tablespoons blackstrap molasses, juice of to 1 lemon, to taste plus more if needed 1 to 2 cups freshly popped kosher salt and white pepper and salted popcorn 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1. Preheat oven to 375F. 2. Prepare the squash: Put squash on a cutting board and split them in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds and discard. Arrange the squash in a single layer, cut sides up, on 1 or 2 rimmed baking sheets. 3. Heat a small saucepan over medium heat. When it begins to smoke lightly, remove the pan from the heat and add 8 tablespoons (1 stick) of the butter. Swirl the pan to melt the butter and wait until it starts to turn a light brown color (return to the stove if needed). Immediately pour the butter liberally over the squash halves and into the cavities. Sprinkle the brown sugar and molasses liberally over the squash and into the cavities as well. Season with salt and pepper. 4. In a small bowl, mix together the ginger, cinnamon, and cloves. Transfer the spice blend to a small fine-mesh strainer and dust the squash halves and cavities with an even layer. 5. Cook the squash: Cover squash halves somewhat snugly with foil and carefully put the baking sheet(s) in the oven. Add about an inch of water to the baking sheet(s) to create steam while the squash bakes in the oven. Bake for 1 to 2 hours. To check for doneness, pierce one of the halves through the foil with the tip of a small knife. The knife should slide in and out easily. If at all firm, bake the halves an additional 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven. Carefully peel back foil and set aside to cool. 6. Make the soup: Using a large spoon, carefully scoop the flesh from the squash into a large pot. Get all of the cooking liquid inside the squash, too, but avoid the skin and the liquid in the bottom of the baking sheet(s): Both will add unwanted bitterness to the soup. Put the pot over low heat. Add half of the orange zest, the orange juice, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, and the garlic. Stir to blend. Taste for seasoning. If the squash lacks sweetness, add a little molasses. If it lacks salt, add a little salt or Worcestershire sauce. 7. In a medium saucepan, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons ( stick) butter over medium heat until it turns light brown and then pour it over the squash, stirring to blend. In the same pot, heat the milk, cream, and 2 cups water. Season the liquid with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Stir the milk mixture into the squash and bring to a simmer. 8. Finish the soup: Pure the soup in small batches in a blender. Combine all batches and taste for seasoning, adding salt, orange zest, or pepper, as needed. If the soup is too thick, add an additional cup of water and blend. Stir in a little lemon juice to brighten the flavors. Serve the soup family style, or ladle the soup into individual bowls, with the popcorn on the side.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE DARBY
rECIPE AND IMAGE frOM OLD-SCHOOL COMFORT FOOD by ALEX GUArNASCHELLI; COPyrIGHT 2013; PUbLISHED by CLArkSON POTTEr, $30.
pairings
The New Go-to Red Wine

Move over Merlot. You, too, Zinfandel. The red wine of choice for a growing number of consumers is now the hard-to-produce, fickle and ethereal Pinot Noir. Long considered to be one of the most demanding varietals to produce, Pinot has transitioned into volume production by Americas biggest wine groupsthe big three being E&J Gallo, The Wine Group, and Constellation. The good news is that value-priced Pinot is now better and more accessible than ever before. But value depends on your individual pocketbook. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 85 percent of all wines sold in the United States cost less than $10 a bottle. But the category between $10 and $20 is increasingly the growth segment in the industry. And the challenge is finding a great weekday Pinot for less than $20. Volume and value can go together nicely, as does the Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir from the much-acclaimed Russian River Valley. As with most Pinot, it pairs well with whatever will be on your table tonight.
PHOTO BY tERRy bRENNAN; FooD StyLED by LARA MIKLASEVICS

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