3rd Eye July 2009 Online Photography Magazine in Pakistan

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A quarterly photographic magazine of
Pakistani Photographers’ Association (PPA)
Issue 1, July 2009
A Biodiversity Hotspot
in the coldest region
of Pakistan
Cover Story
Khunjerab
In this Issue
1
National Park Khunjerab
A Bio-diversity hotspot in the
coldest region of Pakistan National Park
A Bio-diversity hotspot in the
coldest region of Pakistan
Muzaffar H. Bukhari
Cover Photo: White-winged Redstart
(Phoenicurus erythrogastrus)
Photo Credit: Ghulam Rasool Moughal/ Visiting
WWF-Pakistan
Bhong Mosque
A time and cultural capsule
Editorial Team of its own. 12
Dr. Zaheer Sattar
Muzffar H. Bukhari, Edtitor

15
and Layout Designer
A Glass
Sultana Tabassum Farooqi
Sub Editor with CLASS
User Review of Canon 17-40 mm
F:4.0 L Lens
Coordination
Awais Yaqub
Dr. Zaheer Sattar, Rahimyar Khan

Kamran Safdar, Taxila The World’s
Ameer Hamza, Karachi
Suhail Akhtar, Islamabad Biggest Fort
Imran Miskeen, Islamabad Ranikot Fort - A fort that has
Raja Amar, Jhelum quite enigmatic history
Ameer Hamza 17
20
Published Quarterly by A Palace
Communication Department
On the Rock
Shigar Fort - An archeological
Pakistani Photographers’ Association
treasure of 17th century built by
Head Office, Islamabad Raja Hasan Khan of Amacha Dynasty
www.flickr.com/groups/opp
Muhammad Ismail Khan
Mud Volcanos
Issue No./Month
of Pakistan
A WWF-Pakistan team finds out a
Ist Issue, July 2009 new range of Mud Volcanos in
Hingol National Park, Balochistan
23
Waseem A. Khan
From
In this Issue Editor’s

Desk
Dear Reader!
26
Date By the grace of Almighty Allah, after a lot of troubles and internal
hiccups, finally the first issue of 'THIRD EYE' - an online
A fruit like no other - quarterly magazine of Pakistani Photographers' Association
a fruit from paradise (PPA) is up on web. It was, indeed, a mammoth task entrusted to
the magazine team who completed it, though, with a bit of delay,
yet, in a very professional way.
Text: Ameer Hamza, Pictures: Raja Islam PPA is a group of Pakistani Photographers having representation
of professional, amateurs, and hobbyist photographers from all
over Pakistan as well as photographers of Pakistani origin,
28
currently settled abroad. It is a not-for-profit, non-political, and
religiously un-biased entity, mainly focusing on promotion of
The Dancing Girls photography and arts in Pakistan. PPA is currently under process
of registration under the relevant laws of Pakistan. The idea of
of Lahore forming a registered photographic group was conceived by some
dynamic, committed, and enthusiastic photographers who got
introduced to each others through flickr.com - world's most
A Book Review
famous photo sharing website.
E. Kazmi AKA Color of My Dreams
For us, it's really like a dream come true. It took us fairly long
time to come up with the magazine. In fact, we wanted to launch it
29 in the beginning of 2009 but due to a number of factors; both
Phantom of Opera internal, and external, it could not happen unfortunately. In this
quest, we faced a number of challenges - the tough ones being;
A review of a french novel-based Drama, collection of material, editing/proof reading, and finally designing
full of romance, horror, mystery, and of magazine's layout. It wouldn't have been possible without the
tragedy help of all PPA team; particularly those who not only took pain of
writing articles and providing photographs for the magazine, but
Ishtiaq Ahmad also actively participated in discussions related to launching of
THIRD EYE and provided their valuable suggestions. Our
sincere thanks are due to everyone who contributed in this
31 process especially, Dr. Zaheer Sattar, and Kamran Safdar, for
Central Library constantly pushing up the things when they used to get stuck
during this period. Thanks are also due to Mr. Amin Khanani, a
Bahawalpur PPA member from Karachi for proposing this wonderful and
thematic name for the magazine.
A library in Southern Punjab that was
established through a public resolution. The first issue of the THIRD EYE has a mixed type of contents. It
has articles and pictures from Northern Areas, Sindh, Punjab, and
Eng. Juniad Rashid Balochistan. We have also included technical stuff i.e. user’s
review of Canon's most-liked landscape lens, EF 17-40 L. This is
34 in addition to an article about the famous stage act, Phantom of
Opera, and review of a book.
PPA’s First Exhibition
We have sincerely tried to produce some valuable/informative text
at Karachi and eye-catching pictures in the magazine. Whether we
succeeded, or not, is greatly depends upon your satisfaction, dear
About the first-ever exhibition of PPA held reader. If we met your expectations, please encourage us but if
at T2F Gallery in Karachi you feel any shortcomings, or you have some practical suggestion
Ameer Hamza to further improve the magazine - in terms of layout, or contents -
please, provide your feedback at www.flickr/groups/opp.
Dear reader! This is your magazine, and we direly need your

ownership and advice on how we are going, and how we can
Shandur Polo improve.
This is all from the editor's desk. Please go through the

Festival magazine, and don't forget to provide your valuable
comments/suggestions. Cheers.
About a thrilling game played
at the Roof of the World
Muzaffar H. Bukhari
38 Editor
Raja Amir
Khunjerab Pass in June
S ituated amidst the three majestic

mountain ranges of the world the
Karakorams, the Himalayas, and the Hindo
Kush Khunjerab National Park (KNP) is the
fifth largest National Park of Pakistan, with
an area of 226,913 hectares (ha). KNP offers
varying climatic conditions, and a very rich
cultural and biological heritage. The KNP is
adjacent to China's Taxkorgan Natural
Reserve, and home to a wide range of flora
and fauna, including more than 100 birds, 32
mammals, 3 species of reptiles, one
amphibian species, and 152 species of flora.
Some of the globally threatened and endemic
mammals like Snow Leopard, Himalayan
Ibex, Marco Polo sheep, Blue sheep, Brown
Bear, and Tibetan Wild Ass, make the KNP a
biodiversity hotspot in the coldest region of
Pakistan.
Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
The name “Khunjerab” is a combination of
two words of Wakhi language; Khun border in the world. It is known as the Roof of the world or Gateway to China.
(meaning blood) and Jerab (meaning river). The word Prior to completion of this section of KKH in 1982, two other passes, the
“Khunjerab”, thus, means the “river of blood”. Mintaka Pass and Kilik Pass (both unpaved) were used by the travelers.
According to the local community, in the old times
(when KKH did not exist), many people used to die Geology of the Area
every year while crossing Khunejrab River during
traveling on the old silk route. Hence this name of the The general relief of the area lies between 2,439 meters at Passu to 4,878
area emerged. meters near Khunjerab Pass. The important geological sections of KNP are;
(i) Khunjerab igneous complex, (ii) Passu slates, (iii) Khunjerab igneous
KNP is one of the highest altitude parks in the world. complex (mainly granites), (iv) Passu slates, (v) Misghar slates
More than half of the park's area is as high as 13,000 ft (quartzite, slates), (vi) Gojal dolomites, and (vii) Gircha formation
above sea level. Khunjerab Pass, is the highest point on
the Karakoram Highway (KKH) with an elevation of These formations are repeated one after the other in KNP. Most of the upper
about 16,200 ft above sea level, and is the highest paved reaches of KNP are covered with glaciers.
Khunjerab
Khunjerab
By Muzffar H. Bukhari
National
Park The author is a development professional, an eco-tourist,
and an amateur photographer, with a particular interests in
wildlife, and nature photography. He can be reached at
passionatephotog@hotmail.com
July 2009 1
3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association
In the north (near Khunjerab Pass) KNP contains
granites which are part of the Khunjerab igneous
complex. Green xenoliths, probably of some
FACT SHEET
sedimentary origin are also observed in KNP. This
igneous complex overlies the Misghar slates. Some Geographical location: Longitude:
glacial moraines are also found at various places along 74 55' E to 75 57' E
the KKH. Below these moraines the limestone bed is
exposed with a thickness of 10 meters which becomes
40 meters at the junction of Khunjerab and Kuz Latitude :
nullahs. A small quartzite bed having variable 36 01' N to 37 02' N
thickness runs parallel to the limestone bed. Sulfide
zones are also located along KKH and are mineralized Physical location: Karakoram Range Mountains
(pyrite, chalcopyrite, copper, lead-zinc, bromide and on Pak-China border in upper , Hunza/
gold). Most of the KNP area is comprised of Misgar Gojal, Northern Areas Pakistan
slates, a group of which is located at a road section
about 3 km south of Dhee. (Khan 1996). Year established: 1975
Ecology of the Area Area (ha) 227,143
The area of KNP mostly consists of huge mountains
with snow covered peaks, ravines, valleys and Best time to visit: May - October
nullahs. Physical erosion, land slides, and glaciers are
common phenomenon observed in different valleys of
KNP. Most of the valleys are characterized by stony There are four types of vegetation zones in KNP, (i) Dry zone alpine scrub, (ii) Moist
beds and surrounded by hill slopes of gravels, alpine pastures, (iii) Dry alpine plateau pastures, and (iv) Sub alpine scrub and birch
hailstones and soil particles. forests.
Dhee Valley in KNP
2 July 2009
Weather Observation Equipment installed at Khunjerab Top
Climate of the Area
Since the monsoon rains normally do not extend north of the

Indus valley, the region receives its main precipitation
through westerly winds. As such, the area has a climate of
the continental-Mediterranean type. Maximum rainfall (18-
40 mm) is recorded for the months April and May with a
second peak (10-26 mm) in August. June, October and
November are dry months with generally less than 10 mm of
rainfall. The general range of the temperature is determined
by altitude. The area shows temperate conditions with hot
summers, cold winters and great seasonal and, in higher
altitudes, high daily differences.
Historical Overview
Photo By Muzffar H. Bukhari

The writings and carvings on the sacred rocks of Hunza
reveal that this valley has been serving as a link between
China, Gandhara and eastern Afghanistan. These
inscriptions also show that this area was ruled by a local
prince named Dera Sri Chandra Vikramaditya during the
Gupta period. Hunza and Nagar both were included in
Gilgit and ruled by Raja Malik of the Tara Khan dynasty
(AD 1422 to 1449). His son Lili Gashpur and his niece, Shamul Gas, were married. They had
twin sons named Maglote and Girkis who later became the rulers of Nagar and Hunza Sacred Rocks,
respectively. Girkis was murdered and his daughter, Noor Begam, followed by her son Hunza
Ayesho, became the rulers of Hunza one after the other. Mir Mohammad Jamal Khan, a
descendent of Ayesho, was the last ruler after which the state was abolished in 1974 and the
area annexed to Gilgit district as a sub division (Khan 1996). The area was declared a
“National Park” in 1975 by the late Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto, the then Prime Minister of Pakistan.
Photo : Muzffar H. Bukhari

People and their Livelihood
The KNP provides a unique blend of Brusho-Wakhi and Tajik cultures. Approximately 5,000
people live in the adjacent villages of the park. Wakhi and Brushiski languages are spoken in
different areas of the Park. Urdu is spoken and understood by the literate people. English,
French, Spanish, and Japanese are also spoken by eco-tourist guides and porters of the area.
The world's best porters are found in Shimshal one of the most beautiful valleys of KNP.
KKH near Khunjeerab Pass
Being a mountain community, people living in

Shimshal Pamirs rely on the mountain
ecosystems, its products and services for their
livelihood. Local people graze their herds inside
the park on agreed terms and conditions of an
agreement. Most of the time overuse of these
resources sparks serious ecological problems in
shape of deforestation, habitat destruction, soil
Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari erosion, people-wildlife conflict, and retaliatory
killing of the top predators.
July 2009 3
Photo Credit: Ghulam Rasool Moughal/WWF-Pakisan
Koksil Nullah, near Khunjerab Pass
Definition of a National Park
A national park is an area set aside by the Government for protection and preservation of outstanding scenery, flora and fauna in natural state.
The national parks are accessible to public for recreation, education and research, subject to some restrictions that the Government may impose.
To facilitate public, construction of access roads, rest houses, hostels and other buildings within a national park is permitted. Forests in national
parks may also be managed and forest products obtained provided that these activities do not damage natural ecosystem of a national park.
The prohibited actions in a national park include; (i) hunting, shooting, trapping, killing or capturing of any wild animals in a national park or
within one and a half mile radius of its boundary, (ii) firing any firearm or
Khunjerab Pass in Autumn doing any other act which may disturb any animal or bird or doing any act
which interferes with the breeding places, (iii) felling, tapping, burning or
in any way damaging or destroying, taking, collecting or removing any
plant or tree there from, (iv) clearing or breaking up any land for
cultivation, mining or for any other purpose, and (v) polluting water in or
through a park.
Establishment of KNP
The area (now under KNP) was known for several large mammals such as;
Marco Polo sheep, Blue sheep, Himalayan Ibex, Tibetan wild ass, Brown
bear, Snow leopard, and Indian wolf etc. However, in the backdrop of a
drastic decline in the population of Marco Polo sheep, which is found only
in this part of Pakistan, an American wildlife Biologist, Dr. George B.
Schaller recommended to declare this area, a national park. On his
recommendations, Khunjerab was declared a national park by the
Government on 29 April 1975, under the directives of the then Prime
Minister, Mr. Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto.
4 July 2009
A bridge near Gulmit on KKH
KNP consists of 3 main valleys; (i) Khunejrab Valley, (ii)
Ghujerab Valley, and (iii) Shimshal Valley.
The Khunjerab valley starts from Sost village and ends at the
Khunjerab pass on China border. The Khunjerab River flows
from the watershed of the Pak China border. Many small
tributaries join it in the way until it joins Hunza River near
Khudabad. Different nullahs flowing in Khunjerab valley are;
Dhee, Qarchenai, Toghroqin, Ferzindur, Barkhun, Perpek,
Arbobkuk, Gozkil, Padekishk, Koksil and Kooz Nullah. The
Ghujerab valley which forms the main tributary of the Khunjerab
River also provides a link between the valleys of Khunjerab and
Shimshal.
Access to KNP
KNP is located in the extreme northeastern corner of Pakistan. It

is a remote place and getting there is not always easy. KNP is
Photo by Muzaffar H. Bukhari
connected to the rest of the country through KKH also known as
the 8th wonder of the world. Running along the banks of Indus,
Gilgit, Hunza, and Khunjerab Rivers, KKH cuts through the
collision zone between the Asian and Indian continents, where China, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India come within 250 km of each
other. Owing to the extremely sensitive state of the Kashmir conflict between India and Pakistan, the KKH is of a great strategic and military
importance. The KKH is surrounded by beautiful mountains and snow covered peaks like Nanga Parbat, and Rakaposhi. Another very interesting
and unique feature of the KKH is that near Jaglot, at the confluence of Indus and Gilgit rivers, lies the junction point of world's three great and
majestic mountain ranges namely Karakoram, Himalayas, and Hindu Kush. Here a monument is also built describing this feature for the interest
and information of the tourists.
Passu Glacier with Passu peak in Background as seen from KKH
July 2009 5
Pakistani Side of Khunjerb Pass
It takes about 15-18 hours to reach Gilgit from Islamabad by road, and another 6 hours from Gilgit to Sost. Sost is the border check post town
where transportation and guides are available to travel further up to the park which is about 35 km from Sost. The park area starts from
Pamirchi bridge on Khunjerab River about 3 km before Dhee where a beautiful KNP guest house is available for stay. The tourists traveling
on KKH should include a couple of extra days to account for any unexpected road closures due to land-sliding or other unforeseen events. One
can also reach Gilgit via PIA-operated flights (one hour
duration). These flights are operated almost on daily Entering KNP through Pamir Che Bridge
basis from Islamabad to Gilgit, subject to clear weather.
Boundaries of the Park
According to the original notification of KNP, the total

estimated area under KNP was 2270 km2. However,
since the boundaries were drawn arbitrarily, many
important areas which, though contiguous to the
habitats of different wildlife species of the park, were
left out. Accordingly, a substantial part in eastern
Shimshal was not included in the park. While assessing
KNP in 1988, Dr. Per Wegge recommended that park
boundaries should further be extended towards the west
of Shimshal village, including potential areas for
developing wildlife hunting programs for sport and
food. He further recommended the extension of park
boundaries eastwards to the Pak - China border. In the
light of these recommendations, the park's boundaries
were extended to cover an area of 6,150 square km.
6 July 2009
Shimshal Village - Part of KNP
Biodiversity of KNP
KNP is one of the most important alpine biodiversity regions within Pakistan. Reptilian, avian and mammalian fauna of the park show a
blend of species from Paelearctic, Oriental and Ethiopian regions. KNP is home to a number of endangered and threatened animal species
like the Snow leopard (Uncia uncia), Marco Polo sheep (Ovis ammon polii), and Himalayan Ibex (Capra ibex sibirica). Out of 195
mammalian species recorded in Pakistan, 25 species are found in KNP. Species belonging to Palearctic region have reached Pakistan
either from Iran via southern Balochistan or from Central Asia via Karakuram and Hindu Kush mountain ranges. Palearctic species of
KNP arriving via northern route include; Brown bear (Ursus arctos), Ermine (Mustela erminea), Field mouse (Apodemus rusiges), Grey
long eared bat (Plecotus austriacus) and Himalyan ibex (Capra ibex sibirica).
Snow Leopard’s cub at KNP Other important wildlife Golden Marmot in KNP
species in mammalian
fauna are; Blue
sheep/Bharal (Pseudois
nayaur), Brown bear
(Ursus arctos), Golden
marmot (Marmota caudate
a u r e a ) , C a p
Hare/Baluchistan Hare
(Lepus capensis), Indian
Wo l f ( C a n i s l u p u s ) ,
Karakoram Pika
(Ochotona macrotis), and
Migratory Hamster
(Cricetulus migratorius).
July 2009 7
Himalayan Ibex in KNP
The important avian fauna of KNP includes, Golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Himalayan griffon vulture (Gyps himalayensis), Eurasian
black vulture, Marsh harrier (Cirus aeruginosus), Eurasian sparrow hawk (Accipiter nisus), Eurasian kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), Lesser
kestrel (Falco naumanni), Saker falcon (Falco cherrug), Peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), Himalayan Snow cock (Tetragallus
himalayensis).
Himalayan Griffon Vulture Common Stonechat
Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
8 July 2009
White-winged Redstart (male) trying to attract his female mate)
In the high mountains rainfall is low and winters are very

cold so the flora is not rich. Vegetation in the cold deserts
and at higher elevations mainly consists of several
species of grasses and subshrubs. About 152 plant
species have been enlisted from KNP. Asteraceae is the
most prominent family among the KNP plants. Most of
the flora of KNP (36%) is endemic to Himalayas-
Karakuram-Hindu Kush mountains region and gives a
special character to its flora. Some important floral
species of KNP include; Neel-turk (Pleurospermum
candollei), Yeep-woosh (Anapholis triplinervis), and
Caroop (Cichorium intybus scop).,
Threats to Wildlife in KNP
Poisoning of Carnivores
A major threat to the carnivores of KNP is poisoning by

the local communities. According to a survey in 1989,
snow leopard population was estimated as 30 animals,
whereas in another study conducted in 2006, (khan
2006), a population of only 3 to 5 Snow leopards was
estimated in the park. Similar is the case with wolves.
According to the park management plan, the local
livestock was to be removed from the potential habitats Photo by Muzaffar H. Bukhari
July 2009 10
within the KNP boundaries. However, this could not be done apparently because of Himalayan Ibex hunte in KNP
the non-payment of compensation to the affected community. The locals still keep
their livestock in the Park area and grazing has not been stopped. The presence of
livestock in the park attracts carnivore predator towards more easy prey like goats,
sheep and yaks. When a snow leopard or wolf, kills any grazing animal, the owner
of the herd, poisons the carcass to kill the predator. This leads to the death of not
only the attacking predator but also of many other carnivores who are dependent on
the left-over hunt. This situation has resulted in a drastic reduction of wolves and
snow leopards in the area.
Trophy Hunting
Another threat to some of the mammalian fauna of KNP particularly the blue sheep
(Pseudois nayaur), is the trophy hunting. Many hunting organizations facilitate
hunters for blue sheep trophy hunting. With the increase in trophy hunting, the
danger of reduction in the population of blue sheep is quite obvious. Moreover,
illegal hunting of blue sheep either by locals themselves or by arranging un-
authorized hunting expeditions for outside hunters is yet another sign of danger for
the population of blue sheep.

Over Grazing
The Marco Polo Sheep are facing severe threat of lack of food due to presence of
grazers in the core
Livestock Grazing in Dhee Valley, KNP habitat area in
Qarchenai and
Wo l o g h D o r
valleys.
The pastures and

grass lands of Facilities for Visitors at KNP
Qarchenai valley
belong to the The park area starts from Pamirchi Bridge on Khunjerab
people of Ghulkin River along KKH about 3 km before Dhee the last
village who graze resting place along after SOST and before Khunjerab
their livestock Pass but the first vantage point to observe the grazing
from May to herds of Himalayan Ibex on western hill slopes. The
September every park area starts from Pamirchi Bridge on Khunjerab
year, for 150 days. The pastures of Wologh Dor valley in Cape Hare in KNP
Qarchenai are the lambing grounds of Marco Polo sheep. The
plant species which are palatable and favorite species for Marco
Polo sheep are also shared by thousands of livestock (sheep and
goats) thus posing a serious threat to the only habitat and
lambing ground of the Marco Polo in Pakistan. The extent of
threat can be measured with the fact that the number of Marco
Polo sheep at the time of establishment of the park was 500, that
reduced to about 50 in 1992. Khan (2003) reported 35 animals
in 2002 while 19 animals in 2003 and only 25 animals were
observed in 2006 Khan 2006).
Food Competitors
There is no serious threat to wild ungulates in their core habitats

from predators since there are some buffer species like Golden
marmots and Cape hares who share the predatory pressure. The
actual and major threat to wild ungulates is the presence of a
huge number of domestic animals including sheep, goat and
yaks which consume all available vegetation of the site before Photo Credit: Ghulam Rasool Moughal/WWF-Pakisan
moving to another place, thus leaving nothing behind.
9 July 2009
FACILITIES AT DHEE REST HOUSE
Guest House (VIP and standard rooms)

Kitchen
Camping facilities
Porters and Guides
A public call office.
River along KKH about 3 km before Dhee that

is the last resting place along after Sost and Potential Valleys for Eco-Tourism
before Khunjerab Pass – but the first vantage
point to observe the grazing herds of
Himalayan see Ibex on western hill slopes. Valley Potential activities Wildlife
The guest houses of Forest and Wildlife

Department of Northern Areas (NAs), Frontier Dhee Peak, Glaciers, Camping, Ibex, Snow leopard
Works Organization (FWO) and Khunjerab Wildlife watching, and Trekking
Security Forces (KSF) are available at Dhee.
Electricity is not available however, the Karchanai Camping, Wildlife watching, Morco Polo sheet,
facility of electric generator and a public call and Trekking Snow leopard, and
office (PCO) is available here. Water comes Brown bear
directly from glaciers and is very cold - too Koksil Climbing, Camping, Ibex, Snow leopard, and
cold to even wash hands. Visitors of KNP and Wildlife watching, and Trekking Brown bear
nature lovers can camp here and stay at any of
these guest houses and enjoy the available Shimshal Climbing, Camping, Blue sheep,
facilities but with a prior reservation through Wildlife watching, and Trekking Tibetan Wild Ass,
NAs Forest and Wildlife Department. and Ibex
References
Khan, A. A. 1996. Management plan of Khunjerab National Park. WWF Pakistan, Ferozepur Road, Lahore, 54600.
Khan, M. I. and Khan, N. U. H. 2003. Ambassador of peace on the roof of the World - A study report on Marco Polo sheep. GCIC, WWF Pakistan.
Khan, W.A. 2006. Wildlife Survey of Khunjerab National Park, Northern Areas, Pakistan, Internal Report, WWF-Pakistan 48 pp.
July 2009 11
Text and Photos by Dr. Zaheer Sattar
Visiting V
isiting bhong Mosque at Nagri Ghazen - it's a time and cultural capsule of
its own.
Bhong
Landlords ( sometimes referred to as feudal lords) and there mini-kingdoms
are a norm in the Saraiki belt (Southern Punjab) and the interior Sindh
region in Pakistan. These 'kingdoms' typically consist of a 'capital village'
and some thousands of acres of cultivated privately owned land ! Most of
Bhong
the time the 'capital village' itself is also privately owned by the 'Sardar'
(lord) family!
Countless Sardars and countless of their capital villages, How many can
even a resident of the this region name ???
Until late 70s, Bhong, a village located about 30 km of Tehsil Sadiq Abad
Distt. R.Y.Khan, used to be just another such a place. Today Bhong is the
Mosque crown village of this sindh-punjab junction region, known for its
magnificent architectural beauty the Bhong Mosque Complex founded and
mostly completed by the Late Sardar Rais Ghazi Muhammad, who by doing
so rose beyond an ordinary feudal lord ! The mosque construction started in
1932 and was declared almost complete 50 years later in 1982 though its
construction and extension in some respects has never ceased to date.
A medical doctor by profession and a
photographer by passion, Dr. Zaheer Sattar is Travelling on a side road heading east of the main KLP highway from Sadiq
one of the founder members of PPA. Most of his Abad (KLP here is referred to as Karachi Lahore Peshawer), the semi urban
surroundings quickly change into what is culturally Sindh and
work has evolved into what can be labeled as
geographically still Punjab.
“Abstract interpretation of landscape and
nature”. Coming from film age, he has a
special interest in the history and evolution of July 2009 3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association
12
photographic equipment. His flickr ID is
“Afterglowww”. Dr. Zaheer can be reached at
fajarzaheer@gmail.com”.
Reaching Bhong and entering ' Nagri Ghazen' is always an
experience of its own kind. Nagri Ghazen is the village's central
area privately owned by Ghazi family, it practically is the real
Bhong ! A sharp turn on the road entering the village and one is
welcomed by a traditionally erected concrete village gate …. The
Nagri Ghazen gate. The place is a time and cultural capsule of one
of its kind.
Its woven into Saraiki scent and Sindhi colors, represented by a

cheerful crowded and vibrant rural bazaar which is suddenly
enhanced by a Persian / Central Asian architectural presence – the
grand enterance to the Bhong Mosque Complex. Roaming around
this colorful bazaar before entering the mosque is not a bad idea at
all, or you can postpone it to the time of your departure after you
you have visited the mosque.
If you are an architectural geek, you might get disappointed by the

apparent architectural disharmony present in different parts of the
complex as you roam in and around. This is what has been
described as “Peoples' Architecture “. The mosque has been
awarded various national and international awards including the
6th Agha Khan Award in 1982. In the words of the Agha Khan
Award jury:
“In giving award to this building complex (the Agha Khan Award)
the jury wished to make an acknowledgment of the diversity that
enriches (our) society. 'Popular' buildings might be a little different
from buildings derived from indigenous craftsmanship. The
populace might love them, and might have immense significance
for the ordinary people inspite of the fact that architects might hate
them.
Bohng (the mosque complex) represents a monumental

achievement in these terms. It enshrines and epitomizes the popular
'taste' in Pakistan with all its vigour, pride, tension and sentiment.
Its use and mis-use of the signs and symbols express appropriate
growing pains in transition, and yet may prove significant for the
future.“
13 July 2009
Late Rais Ghazi Mohammad , client, designer, patron and landlord,
conceived, directed and funded the entire building construction. This
tremendous effort spanned over a period of 50 years during which he
engaged hundreds of specialized craftsmen and masons from all over
the neighboring states and cities which was then the Indian
subcontinent, master masons from Rajhistan, craftsmen from Multan
for the glazed tile, mosaic and woodwork; and painters and
calligraphers from Karachi. He patronized and encouraged these
workers by setting up a workshop for the Bhong mosque tasks and
further training of the skilled workers . A large numbers of skilled
workers employed and trained here were later on used by government
of Pakistan in the restoration of various heritages in the country.
The Bhong Mosque stands on a majestic citadel like a pearl. It is a part

of a complex that consists of a prayer hall, library, a madrasa, and
residential dormitories for students and visitors. The complex is
utilized by the local population. The madrasa is functional, although
with less importance than in the past when students came to the school
from as far as Turkey, Afghanistan, and Iran.
The prayer hall is the place where the skills of the two generations of
craftsmen bloom like pearls. Simultaneously this is the most difficult
place to photograph in terms of its geometrical dimensions. The hall
is more of an elongated rectangle than anything more spacious. You
need to have a tripod and good wide angle cover of lenses to do any
justice to this place. Visitors flock more on weekends and holidays so
if you are serious about capturing the hall in its full splendor, you are
advised to come here in off hours and off days. The administration of
the mosque is generally very friendly to the serious visitors.
The maintenance and minor extension work remains always in

process here. It is widely said and believed that Ghazi family has been
divinely instructed to keep this mosque in an ever-construction phase.
It will take about 2-3 hours to fully explore the village and the mosque
complex. In general travel tips to the Bhong mosque, the most
important is to reach there early and leave the village early. Though
it's a short distance of about 30 km from Sadiq Abad, this short
distance is not considered very safe for non-routine travellers.
July 2009 14
Text and photo By: Awais Yaqub
A Glass
with
CLASS C anon’s 17-40 mm F 4.0 L is the cheapest offering in Canon’s
top of the line product range of L-series lenses. It is designed
CLASS
to be a high quality, lightweight lens for both film and DSLR
cameras. Like big brothers it is compatible with EF and EFS
camera mounts. On EF mount it is ultra-wide angle lens
with no crop factor, and on EFS mount it is a standard lens
with crop factor of 1.6 and 28mm-67mm zoom range.
Built/feels and operations

User’s Review of Canon’s 17-40 L
L designation on this lens comes with rock solid
construction, and has smooth yet sturdy zoom and focus
rings. Being a lightweight and compact lens, it balances
nicely on all of Canon’s DSLR camera bodies. The lens is
constructed of a hybrid metal and plastic compound with a
polycarbonate barrel. The flat black paint finish along with
the trademark L series red ring looks very professional. It is
weatherproof and sealed against both moisture and dust.
Use of a good quality UV filter is highly recommended for
complete weather sealing. The focusing speed is lightning
fast – thanks to incorporation of Canon’s USM technology.
It can focus in extremely dim light conditions with great
accuracy.
July 2009 15
Picture Quality This lens has served me flawlessly and proved to be
an excellent companion for my professional
The lens produces pictures full of contrast, sharpness and colors, and using this lens is truly assignments as well as for walk around clicks.
a luxury experience. I use this lens on crop body that means camera uses only the center of
the lens. There is slight amount of barrel distortion on wide end easily fixable in software.
This lens is sharp at all apertures and photographs are perfectly usable. But the sweet spot is The author is a student of MBA and
at f8 to f11. Mounted on 10MP camera this lens makes excellent enlargements. I have made founder member of PPA who started
24x20 inch wide prints hanging proudly in my living room. photography as a serious hobby in
Pricing and recommendation
2004 and has evolved as a
professional photographer providing
This lens is available for about USD700, hence the cheapest lens of Canon's “L” series. It’s freelance photography services to
future compatibility with full frame camera is assured. It is an excellent option for the several organizations. Nature, ancient
people using crop bodies, who want to use it for a walk around purpose. For them this lens is monuments , mosques, and people are
28mm-67mm. For some people, the zoom range is little short from ideal but it all depends
on individual's requirements, preference and shooting style.
his favourite subject. The author can
be reached at
Other option in this class of lens is 16-35 F2.8 L II from Canon that goes for USD1,500. If awais@awaisyaqub.com
you have budgetary constraints, I will recommend checking Tamron’s 17-50 F 2.8 but it is
only compatible with EFS mount and of course lacks advantages of Canon’s L-series lenses.
If you shoot wide angle, full frame photographs with Canon cameras stopped down at f/8
and beyond, the EF 17-40mm f/4L is an outstanding lens. Contrast and sharpness are at their
best at the wide end (20 and 24mm) of the zoom range and approach or exceed those of
quality prime lenses. Keeper ratio has improved dramatically due to accurate and razor
sharp focus. Sharpness drops off in far corners at 35mm and 40mm and micro-contrast
drops off slightly at 35mm. Performance drop at the long end of the zoom range is unlikely
to be objectionable in most landscape photos. However, some Pros are concerned about a
rather high degree of barrel distortion noticeable in scenic and landscape photography. For
many types of photography, this distortion isn’t a big issue; however, architectural and
landscape photographers should keep themselves aware of this phenomenon. Overall, this
is a high performance super-wide angle zoom for full-frame Canon cameras.
16 July 2009
The
Photo by: Ameer Hamza

FORT
World’s Biggest
Fort
By Ameer Hamza
I
t claims to be the largest fort in the world and so far, no
other fort (or country) has disputed that claim. Its walls
stretch some 24 km across rough and stunning terrain.
Some walls are not man-made; they are natural rock
formations. Looking at them, one can easily imagine that
these rocks were made to complement the fort. Welcome
to Ranikot, which is so immense that within its walls it
has two smaller forts, the Miri and the Shehrgarh forts.
Ranikot is located about 30 km from the small town of

Sann. Contrary to the general belief, this fort is not part of
the Kirthar Mountains (Balochistan). The mountains of
Ranikot are called Tora Mountains, forming one of the
boundaries of the fort, as mentioned earlier.
Photo Credit: Sultana Tabassum
To get there one has to travel in one's own vehicle. The

roads are in good condition, and remain so till you reach
the Miri fort inside Ranikot. The remaining distance
must be covered by foot.
Another way to travel to this place is by bus or train. In

both cases, you will be dropped off on Indus Highway at
Sann. From there, you can book a wagon or a chinchi
(motorcycle rickshaw) for the whole day or two. I was
charged Rs500 for a two-way ride by a chinchi.
Ranikot has four main entrances: Mohan gate (west

side), Amri gate (north-west side), Shehpar gate (south
side) and Sann gate (Sann side). But there are no gates,
only wide open spaces, and on both sides are huge blocks
of stones that mark them.
July 2009 17
The history of the fort is quite enigmatic. Local legend passed down
through generations, claims that the Talpurs built this fort. This can be
traced back to the court historians at Talpur palaces who, perhaps to
glorify their rulers, wrote that the Talpur kings built it. However, no
known written architectural records exist to confirm this. But then
there are no precise records for many Mughul buildings, either.
On the other hand, foreign scholars believe that this fort was built
much earlier by the warring tribes who settled here, before the Photo by: Ameer Hamza
Muslims arrived and that the two forts inside (Shehrgarh and Miri)
were built much later, possibly by the Talpurs themselves. However, I
found the stonework of Ranikot and Miri quite similar. This can be
accounted for by the indigenous stones that are found there.
And what about the strange name, 'Ranikot'? People offer two different
answers. One local claims that 'rani' is a place where water from its
source flows underground and reaches some other place. I found this
plausible, as there is a stream at Ranikot (only during the rainy season),
whose water is used by villagers to grow crops. Another possible
explanation for the name is that Ranikot, according to many locals,
belonged to the Talpurs. When the British took over the fort from them,
through betrayal, the locals started calling the fort 'Rankot' (a deviation
of Ranikot), which in Sindhi refers to a woman whose husband has
been killed.
18 July 2009
Photo Credit: Sultana Tabassum
You can camp here (in fact, there is no use going there if you can't camp), the fort Surprisingly, this largest fort on earth is not on the list of
being quite safe. The best plan is to take your own camping gear and a UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. Why this injustice?
considerable amount of food. You can take water with you, and also try the local
stream water which is very pure. The only precaution that you should take while
camping is against the foxes in the plains. I saw two at night (but had no time to The author is a frequently published
photograph them!), and they were quite wonderful creatures. freelance photo journalist, and a travel
photographer from Karachi. He is also
Another option is to go to the small fort, Miri. There is a ramshackle 'government
house' built by the British who stayed here when they ruled India. The caretaker,
Regional head of PPA, Sindh Reagon. His
who is an employee of the Govt. of Pakistan, can provide the keys. And if you photographic work is mainly focused on
think you might be alone there, you are as mistaken as I was when I first went people & culture, archeology, and travel
there. There is a village of around 500 people who live within the boundaries of documentaries. The author can be reached
the fort, and whose major occupation is herding and farming. They are extremely at ameer.great@gmail.com.
poor but they don't beg.
Photo Credit: Sultana Tabassum Photo Credit: Sultana Tabassum
July 2009 19
A Palace
Rock
on the Rock
By Muhammad Ismail Khan
The author is a development professional and an analyst, from Skardu, having
background in tourism, media and policy development. He is a former elected
representative (2005-08) from the Asia Pacific region on the 'Board of Directors of
the Mountain Forum.
A
Skardu as seen from Satpara-Skardu Road
45-minute flight from Islamabad will land you in a
Photo : Muzaffar H. Bukhari different world Skardu an amazing blend of sand
dunes, lakes, orchards, glaciers, meadows, people,
streams, rivers and green fields surrounded by
grayish snow-clad mountains. Another 45 minutes
of road travel from the airport will transport you
into a royal setting of the central Karakoram
kingdom - the Shigar Fort Residence.Perched on a
huge boulder, the Shigar Fort is locally known as
Fong Khar literally meaning the palace on the
rock. Built by Raja Hassan Khan, the 20th ruler of
the Amacha dynasty of the Shigar Valley in the
17th century, the fort which was in ruins till few
years back, has been restored to its original
grandeur and has been converted into a heritage
accommodation for international and domestic
tourists.
Shigar is the gateway to the world's most

amazing mountaineering hub. All trekking
and mountaineering expedition to K2 and
other high mountains of the central
Karakoram passes through the valley. An
important bastion of the Balti culture and
tradition the valley and its people are known
for their idyllic life, skilled artisans and strong
high altitude porters. Its ruling dynasties have
left behind a rich cultural tradition in the form
of poetry, music, the game of polo and
remarkably beautiful forts and
mosques/khanqahs. In 1634, Raja Hassan
Khan ascended the throne, soon to be
overthrown by invaders. The raja, however,
managed to reassert his rule with the help of
the forces of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan,
and on his way back from Kashmir he brought
along number of artisans, carpenters, stone
carvers to build the Fong Khar. The fort is
situated on an elevated hamlet along the right
bank of a stream which bisects the main Shigar Fort in Autumn
village and falls in the Shigar River an Photo : Yasir Malik www.flickr.com/photos/21018130@N07/2049847142/
important tributary of the Indus.
20 July 2009
View from Shigar Fort Interior of the exhibition space at Shigar Fort
Photo by: Dan Polta
www.flickr.com/photos/91403187@N00/2913264399/ Photo : Zain Mankani
The older fort was

right on top of a hill
overlooking the
Fong Khar. For a
long period the two
forts co-existed till
the older one
crumbled down
around 100 years
ago. Later on, many
new annexes were
built in the
immediate vicinity
for residential
purposes from time
to time.The Fong
Khar too was in a
shambles till the Aga
Khan Cultural
Support Programme
with generous
financial support
from the Norwegian
government came
forward to strike a
deal with the present raja of Shigar for restoration of the palace. The www.flickr.com/photos/8268405@N05/2369659004/
fort has been acquired on lease and a new residence for the raja was
constructed next to the fort complex as an alternate. In the design and
construction of the new building an effort has been made to promote Given the poor condition in which the complex was found before its
local architecture and building material. restoration, the conservators seem to have used local knowledge and
building material to fill construction gaps. As the fort has been
converted into a residential museum, new functions and facilities
The Shigar Fort Residence is a multi-building complex. Besides the such as high quality toilet fittings, the water distribution system,
grand Fong Khar, the Garden House and Sningma (old) House and a sewerage and electrical wiring have been integrated in a way that has
small mosque at the entrance have also been restored to original minimum impact on the original ambience of the historic building.
condition. The Sningma Nang (old house) was built in 1890 and was The conservation and adaptive re-use concept introduced with an
constructed over already existing stables. The Garden House was the innovative approach has blended well with local specificities and
latest building where the raja family resided till the premises was livelihood context. Two halls in the Fong Khar and the Sningma Khar
leased out. The complex itself is spread over a large piece of land have been turned into restaurants providing quality food. A museum
surrounded by orchards, garden, terraced field where water is containing personal belonging and utensil of former rajas also adorn
channeled from the steams next to the fort.The platform made of the central hall.
stone masonry is quite impressive. The eastern side of the platform
consists of huge granite boulders Shigar Fort Kitchen
Balcony at Shigar Fort most of them four to five metres Photo: Arsalan Mirza
Photo : Zain Mankani high, with the nucleus of the
building rests on the several
www.flickr.com/photos/8268405@N05/2368798983/
metres-high rock (fong) next to

the entrance of the main fort. It is
wonderful to see such large and
heavy boulders being used in
construction at a time when no hi-
tech forks and bulldozers existed.
The reception room is dotted with
impressive wood carving on
timber columns and beams. The
varying designs of the three
structures speak of the series of
edition and deletion the
occupants have made over the
years.
July 2009 21
Entrance of Shigar Fort
Photo Courtesy: Hassan Hassrat www.flickr.com/photos/58581702@N00/1439013326/
From tourism standpoint, there is no region Shigar Fort

close to equaling Baltistan for its natural and Photo Courtesy: Gerard Courvoisier
cultural heritage. From the world's second
highest peak K2 to the world's largest glacier
outside the poles known as the Siachan
glacier, Baltistan presents unrivaled natural
beauty and culture. Its ancient rural
settlements, grand forts and palaces, intricate
wooden curving, Buddhist relics,
shimmering valleys, civilized and peace-
loving communities, idyllic lakes and high
altitude wildlife laden plateaus such as
Deosai make it a solid contender to qualify as
a world heritage site.The Shigar Fort
Residence is a welcome addition to the long
list of places while visiting Skardu. Those
die-hard hikers who come to camp at Deosai,
spend vacation roaming in Khaplu or fishing
in Kachura and Sadpara Lakes will now have
another must-see destination in their
itinerary. The fort provides an excellent
retreat for diplomats, business executives and
naturists seeking a royal retreat in an
exceptional natural environment.
www.flickr.com/photos/dodocoucou/1391046707/
22 July 2009
Mud N ature has blessed Pakistan with a number of
geographical wonders - mud volcanoes being one of
them. Mud Volcanoes also known as Sedimentary
Volcanoes or Gas-Oil Volcanoes are not very famous
and not as devastating in action as are their
counterpart Magmatic Volcanoes. They have been
VOLCANOES
existing on the face of this planet since very
Volcanoes
beginning but their actual discoveries and studies
date back only a few centuries.
They are one of the earth's most interesting natural

phenomena. They may erupt abruptly and
powerfully vomiting tons of muddy brackish water,
of Pakistan which is chemically a mixture of water, mud, gases

(CH4, C2H6, and SO2), a few elements, some traces of
hydrocarbons, oil and some heat energy. The mud
volcanoes therefore have a direct link to gas and oil
fields and are excellent indicators to the presence of
these natural resources.
Text and Photos by: Waseem A. Khan
July 2009 23
More than 700 mud volcanoes have been reported
around the world so far and according to Owais
Mughal (2007), the managing editor of ALL
THINGS PAKISTAN - a website highlighting
Pakistan's beauty, there are 18 mud volcanoes in
Pakistan and all located in Balochistan.
The earliest account of the presence of mud

volcanoes in Balochistan dates back to 1840. The
first surviving account of their existence is by Major
Frederick John Goldsmith who wrote a diary of his
travels from Karachi to Gawadar in 1862 where he
tells about the bubbling springs near Ras Koocheri
and the mud volcanoes near Ormara. There are two
known groups of mud volcanoes in Balochistan viz.,
Chandargup and Jablul Ghurab. According to Owais
Mughal, seven out of 18 mud volcanoes are located
near Sapat post in Hingol National Park (HNP) and
the remaining 11 are located between Kutch and
Gawadar.
New Records of Mud Volcanoes in Pakistan
While conducting wildlife surveys in Babbro Kaur

and Laksar Plains in the northern part of HNP during
February 2007 we (a team of five members
comprising of two wildlife watchers from
Balochistan Forest and Wildlife Department and
two porters) led by the author, heard rather strange
stories from local residents about occasional blasts
followed by fire and smoke in a mud mountain
known as Kundigo Kurt. The last such blast was
heard by locals about six months ago. This mountain
is not very far from Babbro Kaur and Laksar Plains.
Visualizing that these could be active mud
volcanoes, we decided to investigate the stories.
Access to the Area
Visiting the Kundigo Kurt Mountain is not an easy

task as it falls in a mountain range where only the
professional hikers can dare to venture. There are
two access routes to the Kundigo Kurt Mountain and
both are very difficult; One from Uthal (Tehsil of
Lasbela District) - Jhau on RCD Highway leading to
Khuzdar / Quetta, branching off at Dhalli Hinj
village following a dirt track to Kukree Bhent (a
hamlet) along the Ara Kaur (Ara River) in HNP; the
other route is from Traanch valley which is even
more difficult especially its part known as Dozakh
(Hell). Kukree Bhent is accessible riding a four
wheel drive jeep only as there are many small
mounds, stony beds, streams and plains. It takes
about two and a half hours to reach Kukree Bhent
from Jhau at RCD Highway (a distance of only 16
km). From Kukree Bhent onwards starts the camel
ride for about eight hours along Ara Kaur up to Pishi
Bhent and then about four hours walk on foot to
reach the base of the Kundigo Kurt Mountain in the
east of Ara Kaur. It takes about two hours from the
base of the Kundigo Kurt Mountain to reach the top
following a very difficult and risky track.
24 July 2009
Our Findings
After a tiresome journey of about 12 hours both on camel back and on foot, we
reached the base of the mountain in the evening therefore spent that night there.
Climb to the mountain top started next morning (0700 hours). After following the
difficult and risky track and passing through various gullies and depressions, we
reached the top by 1100 hours and found seven magnificent and active mud
volcanoes within about 150 m length and 70 m width at the top of Kundigo Kurt
Mountain at 1509 feet (460 m) above sea level and the deposited extrusions all
around. We took photographs, GPS coordinates and measurements of craters of
different volcanoes. We observed gas bubbles rising from the mud in the crater, a
network of gullies, ridges and beautifully carved deep grooves made of mud
extruded from the volcanoes by rain and wind erosion. We returned to the base
camp at 1600 hours, very tired but jubilant and exited at this new find which is the
3rd mud volcano field in Pakistan after Chandargup and Jabl ul Ghurab and second
in HNP located at N: 25º 52' .180” and E: 65º 45' .930”. Local people use the word
Borbroong for mud volcano. We therefore named these mud volcanoes as:
S.No. Name of Mud Details

Volcano
1 Borbroong I About 100 x 70 ft crater size, almost rounded in
shape and at 1509 ft above sea level. Mud was
oozing from three different points each of about 2 ft.
2 Borbroong II About 15 x 12 ft crater size, almost rounded in shape
and at 1490 ft above sea level. Surface was wet,
about 5 ft deep and mud was not oozing.
3 Borbroong III About 12 x 12 ft crater size, circular in shape and
1480 ft above sea level. Surface looked like a spring
and mud with water oozing out.
4 Borbroong IV About 4 x 3 ft crater size, irregular in shape and
1480 ft above sea level. Actively oozing mud.
5 Borbroong V Borbroong V: About 3 x 3 ft crater size, circular in
shape and 1480 ft above sea level and actively
oozing out mud.
6 Borbroong VI Borbroong VI: About 40 x 60 ft crater size, irregular One special thing about these mud volcanoes is that small
in shape and 1470 ft above sea level. Mud was glittering crystals of gold ranging 5 20 mm in size can
oozing from two points each of 2 ft diameter. frequently be seen around the craters. But instead being
7 Borbroong VII Borbroong VII: About 08 x 08 ft crater size, rounded the real gold these are actually the crystals of pyrite or iron
in shape and 1470 ft above sea level. Crater was pyrite (FeS2); an ore of Iron also known as Fool's Gold.
elevated about 3 ft from the surface and mud was
oozing. As mud volcanoes have a direct link to gas and oil fields
therefore, it is recommended that government should
search these natural resources here but keeping in view
that the area falls within the boundaries of a National Park
The author is a field biologist and

Coordinator, Environmental Education,
WWF-Pakistan, Islamabad. He can be
reached at khanwa@gmail.com
July 2009 25
Date D
ate has been a popular fruit for centuries,
venerated not just by Muslims but also by
Christians and Jews, as well as people of other
cultures.
During Ramazan, dates are the preferred way of

breaking the fast. Christians use date palm leaves
during Easter and for Jews date seed is among the
A Fruit Like No Other seven holy seeds.
Text: Ameer Hamza, Pictures: Raja Islam
The earliest evidence of date palm cultivation can
be traced to Ur (lower Mesopotamia) around
Pakistan has been one of the leading producers of dates, however, due to the 4000BC. Date palm trunks were used for the
lack of proper marketing strategy on the global level, lack of good roads for
construction of the temple of the god of moon.
transportation, and proper cultivation, it does not export much of its produce.
Other sources put date palm cultivation at
As dates can only grow in hot climates and preferably in places away from the 6000BC, perhaps somewhere in the region
sea, Makran, Khairpur, D.I. Khan and Sukkur are the main districts in the between Asia and North Africa, the area best
country where it is grown. Processing is mainly done in the Therhi area of suited for its farming.
district Khairpur.
July 2009 26
Over 263 varieties of dates are grown in Pakistan. Among
them, aseel, karbala, fasli and kupro of Sindh; muzawati,
begum jangi, jaan swore, kehraba and rabai of Balochistan;
dhakki and gulistan of NWFP, are the more well-known ones.
However, the prince among all the varieties of dates is the

ajwah. It is a special type of date small, compact, dark
coloured and tasty. No wonder that it is one of the most costly
varieties of date.
On the technical side, the date palm is called phoenix

dactylifera belonging to the phoenix genus. It is generally 15-
25 metres tall but can reach 30 metres in height if excellent
growing conditions are provided. Close surface water is
needed for its optimum growth and good quality fruit. It can
even survive some extreme saline conditions.
Dates are versatile and since they have been around for
thousands of years, they have been used in different ways.
They are used in coffee, alcoholic as well as non-alcoholic
beverages and the trunk is used for making huts.
In Oman they make fancy play boats from its shaft and many
handicraft items from the seed. The largest consumption of
this delicious and nutritious fruit takes place during the month
of Ramazan.
27 July 2009
The By E. Kazmi
Dancing Girls of
Dancing Girls of Lahore
The author is a Pakistani female photographer currently settled in States, and originally belonging to
Lahore. Her pictures present some of the most appealing still life compositions mainly focusing on food
and book covers. Key concepts in her compositions include object placement, color combination and
most importantly natural light.
I wept, felt revolted, but I found myself immediately caught up in the lives, laughter, tears, history, gossip, ambition and sheer guts of
Maha, an aging"dancing girl" of Lahore, through the grace of Louise Brown's writing, who lived with her family in a dingy, crumbling,
ancient quarter of Lahore. Louise Brown lived in wretched conditions to observe the life of Maha, a woman in her 30s who has retired in
an industry where rookies are as young as 10 years old. You get to see the dilemma that her young 14 years old girl is shipped to Gulf to be a
mistress for an old Arab. This can be very painful reading, very young girls are raised to be prostitutes, neglect and abuse are rampant. By the
time these girls have "aged out" to their 30s, they are virtually worthless and must in turn raise their own daughters to be prostitutes. Without
any ability to earn money from anything but sex (with the very youngest girls), this degradation carries on from generation to generation,
often with grandmother, mother and daughter all prostituted to the same depraved wealthy men.
The author gives an in-depth point of
view of daily life in Lahore, following
the lives of several characters and
families as she personally visits them
over a seven year period. Through her
portrayal of their lives, one can gain a
great understanding of a world and
culture so completely different from
their own. The vivid descriptions make
you feel like you are there living yourself
there in Heera Mandi. I learnt so much
about the mentality of Pakistani women
who are living in a cycle of prostitution.
It makes me understand why it is so
difficult to get out of this situation with
the society being so unforgiving.
The author has written the book so

beautifully that you can see the images in
your mind's eye with near-perfect
clarity. It broke my heart , not only
because of what these women go
through, but to see the way their pimps
treat them and they just accept it and
know no other way. They have no
options and choices available to them,
yet they don't seem to realize just how born in that part of the society, and they are doing the best they Know of, keeping
bad things are. their traditions alive, and surviving on a day to day basis.
Louise Brown spent months with the women and A stunning, heartbreaking and amazing book on the secret culture of Red Light
eunuchs at the Heera Mandi, yet had nothing but area of Lahore – also known as Heera Mandi, and a fascinating journey into a side
praise for their hospitality and respect towards her. At of Indo-Pakistani culture usually, carefully hidden from view. Give it a try and do
the end, they are humans who had the misfortune to be read this book.
July 2009 28
Phantom of Opera Text and pictures By: Ishtiaq Ahmad
s far as history is Theater is an art of storytelling,

Aconcerned, dramatic
"The Phantom of the Opera" is a French an ancient art that is endangered
production comes from the novel by Gaston Leroux, based on real in modern Pakistan. More likely
banks of Nile... Throughout events related to the Paris Opera House, it has been shaped badly to be for
the history, theaters have and is a combination of romance, horror, the specific people of
been medium of community who love to watch it
entertainment, education, and mystery and tragedy for fun, rater than art.
bringing new experiences
and understanding of the My experience with the theater
world for the audience as well as the artists. Regardless of the is nil... the only experience I have is when I am browsing my
fact that in Pakistan, the theater has rarely been given any Television channel and something comes up with vulgar
support, it has, nevertheless, continued to grow in the culture in language, and assault of insult, accompanied by shouting. I
forms of poppet shows, comedy theaters & folk music. never had an experience of looking deeper into the meaning of
what they were trying to say... I hope there was nothing to
ponder in them at all.
I have been involved with photography

which is becoming my passion. During
my hunt for my own species I came to
know that our "Common Man" has
nothing to appreciate about Pakistan.
Everybody has gone mad. However, a
small sign of hope is that still there are a
few people who are striving to make us
see the brighter side of Pakisatn and
one of them are the photographers
always portraying the diversification
and beauty we have around us.
One of my fellow posted regarding

"The Phantom of the Opera in
Islamabad" as a photographing
opportunity. I did not know anything
about how these kind of events were
captured and I thought it to be a very
good learning opportunity for me.
"The Phantom of the Opera" is a French

novel by Gaston Leroux, based on real
events related to the Paris Opera House,
and is a combination of romance,
horror, mystery and tragedy. It was the
biggest ever theatrical production in the
history of Islamabad. When I entered
the hall, it was mesmerizing. I never
saw the audience like this well
mannered and very disciplined. The
experience I had of those typical dramas
I have already talked about, completely
vanished and a new image of Theater
drawn over me. After a beautiful
introduction by Sharabel and praying
for our country Pakistan, the show
29 July 2009 started.
His voice calls to her, nurturing her Drama was filled with
extraordinary talents from the surprises, and beautiful spot
shadows of the opera house where lights and music and some
innocent chorus girl Christine Daae beautiful melodies.. Story,
makes her home. Christine's what I feel is very familiar to
mysterious “Angel of Music” is what we have seen in our
actually the Phantom, a disfigured childhood "The Beauty and the
musical genius who haunts the Beast".
catacombs of the theater, terrifying
the ensemble of artists who live and The author is an
work there. Information Technology
professional, and an
He finally drives the lead soprano ameature photographer,
crazy so she and her friend leave. based at Rawalpind. His
The girl is able to sing lead one night prime area of interest is
but the soprano doesn't want her landscape, people and
show stolen so she comes back. The culture. His pictures on
ghost demands they keep giving his flickr.com are extremely
protoge lead roles. Meanwhile, His captivating. His wonderful
pupil falls in love with the Raoul, but description of the scenes
the Phantom is in love with make his pictures look like
Christine, his student. The Phantom a romantic poetry.
is outraged by their love and kidnaps
Christine to be his eternal bride. Will
Raoul, be able to stop this dastardly
plan??
July 2009 30
Central By Mr. and Mrs. Enjgr. M. Junaid Rashid
Library
Library
Bahawalpur
Junaid Rashid from
Bahawalpur is a Thermal
Power Engineer by
T he story of books and libraries in the history of human civilization is interesting and amazing.
According to the social scientists, 90 percent of the process of human development in terms of
mental, physical, and social development could not be taken down because not enough avenues
were explored for the purpose.
profession and a Generally speaking, a "Book" is a "Collection" of Human Thoughts & Contemplations and a
photographer by "Collection" and organization of books at one place where readers can choose to read a book of their
choice, is termed as a "Library".
inheritance. Mrs. Junaid
is a student of Masters in History is evident of the fact that several emperors, monarch, nobels, dignitaries and religious scholars
Media Studies. They can look great interest in patronizing literary activities. As such, most of them facilitated establishing and
be reached at managing libraries.
junaidinuet@gmail.com
The significance of a book is apparent from the fact that almost all religious people keep their books of
holy revelations with great care.
July 2009 31
The Arabs used to advice their Children in
the following words: FACT SHEET
"O my child...When ever you have to stay
anywhere in the market then always stay Land area 88 kanals and 13 marlas
on those shops where arms & books are
sold. Books are our best friends because Donated by Former Ameer of Bahawalpur
when your friends have abolished to see
you then these books console you and if Construction period 1924 to 1932
you will share any secret with them they'll
not express it to anyone else." Architecture type The building is beautiful model of Italian
architecture with white tombs providing
The former princely state of Bahawalpur
is famous even today for its unforgettable its additional elegance.
services in the field of education. The
ruler of BWP state not only founded a
number of educational institutions for the 1st Named Sadiq Reading Library.
promotion of literacy in the area but also
managed to establish a great library Working Hours 7.00 am to 7.00 pm 7 days a week.
which, at present, is know as " The
Central Library Bahawalpur”.
This library is regarded as one of the oldest libraries of Punjab. It was

constructed for the public through the funds raised by the Public, hence, is a
classic example of building community infrastructure through participatory
approach.
Environment of Library
The library atmosphere is extremly serene. The readers can keep themselves
absorbed in going through different books with complete attention and
devotion. The building has been designed in such a way that the hot & sultry
climate of desert does not effect the cool atmosphere of the rooms. Books
are kept in different racks, cupboards, cabinets & almirahs in a beautiful
manner thus increasing the interior decor of the library.
Treasure of Library
The library has a treasure of about 200,000 books including ancient

manuscripts, that further enhances the importance and significance of the
library. Its like a fountain of knowledge which is quenching the thirst of the
persons greatly interested in the books reading. The Magazines and journals
HISTORY
In 1924, the Public passed a resolution saying that on
the EVE of the "coronation ceremony" of the last ruler
of Bahawalpur, Sir Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi, a
public library would be established as a momento of
the grand even. For this purpose the Public and State
employees contributed Rs.100,000. Due to shortage
of funds Bahawlpur muncipality completed the available in the lib. are about 32 in total. In addition, about 27
Newspapers are also available in the library. The part of
remaining building in 1934 and established its offices library which has old manuscripts and printed books is worth
in the building. Only a small portion was dedicated seeing. The collection of old magazines and journals in this
for the library. A few months before Pakistan library is tremendously big and amazing. Complete files of
creation, the building was vacated from the Indo-Pak, have been preserved in building shape. The antique
Bahawalpur municipality through a court order and a piece of art and calligraphy, pictures, maps and charts are a
hallmark of this library. The verses of Quran written on the
wonderful library was established by the government, skin of deer have beautifully been preserved. A glimpse of
that was renamed as "Central Library Bahawalpur” this art can be seen in the Gillani and Bukhari dynasties of
"Uch Shareef".
32 July 2009
Newly received books have been kept on the 2nd floor where the cataloguing, indexation
and other matters of library are also performed. In the upper hall on one side there are about
13,500 files of newspaper and magazines. Some of the important newspaper include;
Akhbar e Oudh, Sir Moore Gazette, Patiala Akhbar, Al-Balagh Calcatta, Civil & Militry
Gazette, Zamidar Lahore, Paisa Akhbar, Akhbar e Alam Meerut, Koh e Noor Lahore, Al-
Hilal Calcatta, and States Man, Calcatta.
The Research Section
Library's research section is very attractive and is isolated from the main part. This section
consists of books in Urdu and English arranged in a systematic manner to help readers find
out their require stuff easily, without much hastle. The staff is also very friendly and
cooperative. They extend great help in supply of the required books even from other
sections.
.
In the Urdu research section, books of significant importance on history, literatture,
dictionary, and language and alphabets have been kept. Cataloguing of books has been
done in accordance with the Davey Decimal System.
Training Center Of Linguistics
Another very interesting feature of the library is its training center of linguistics, in which
the German & French Languages are taught.
Iqbaliyat
There is an exclusive section in the library dedicated for Iqbaliyat where, a handsome
collection of books on the life, poetry & philosphy of Dr. Allama Muhammad Iqbal has
been preserved.
Other Sections of Library
There are another section reserved for women, children and blind for providing services to
these segments of the society. The library also has an audio visual section that is enriched by
documentaries, films and reports about significant events of Bahawalpur and Cholistan
desert including Mela-Chanon Peer, UCh Mela and celebrations of anniversaries of a
number of saints scattered throughout the Bahwalpur and Cholistan area. In fact, the
library is one of the most beautiful and elegant monoument of Bahawalpur city.
Refernce: Kutub aur Kutab Khanon ki Tarekh, by " Ashraf Ali “
July 2009 33
The
First Photographic Exhibition
Photographic Exhibition
Of PPA
By Ameer Hamza
T he Pakistani Photographers' Association (PPA) www.flickr.com/groups/opp
conducted its first ever exhibition in Karachi during 3-7 January 2009. It
was an untiring effort of the PPA Administrators and the contributors, who
initiated it and through shear hard work and sense of belonging, sent their
best work to be displayed at a chic gallery of Defense (main Khb-e-Ittehad)
called T2F. The gallery was holding for the first time such an exhibition
where photographs had not been tempered with. It was something new for
T2F's administration.
PPA’s Regional Coordinator Ameer Hamza

being interviewed by Geo News at the T2F Gallery
34 July 2009
Badshahi Mosque - by Muzaffar H. Bukhari
The main theme of the exhibition was

PAKISTAN and the sub-themes were:
i) Landscape
ii) Wildlife
Iii) Archeology
iv) People and Culture, and
v) Travel Photography
The photographers whose work was

displayed in the exhibition, were from
Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, NWFP, and
Azad Kashmir. The candidate entries were
to be submitted online by the participant
photographers. The response was very
encouraging even beyond our
expectations. Around 240 entries were
received, out of which 65 were selected for
display by a team of selectors comprising of
three photographers, headed by Doctor
Zaheer Sattar@Rahim Yar Khan one of the
most respected photographers in PPA for Pictures displayed at T2F Gallery
his creativity and unique style.
July 2009 35
Ratti Sar - AJK - by Shakeel Ajmal
Selection criteria included; (i) relevance to the theme,

(ii) composition, (iii) visual impact, and (iv) creativity.
These criteria were strictly applied across the board.
However, since PPA did not intend to discourage its
young/new members by rejecting their entries purely on
technical grounds, some relaxation was given to such
members whose work lacked technical excellence.
The available space at the T2F gallery could only

accommodate 50 pictures at a time. However, we
Passu, Northern Areas by Muaffar H. Bukhari managed to showcase all of the selected pictures by
rotating some of the entries so as to ensure that
Hunza in Autumn - by Shakeel Ajmal everybody's work is displayed.
The event got wide coverage in both electronic as well as

print media. The entire credit for this media coverage
goes to the PPA members from Karachi particularly
Ameer Hamza, who took lead in not only organizing the
exhibition (including negotiating the terms with the
owner of the T2F, and printing and framing of the
pictures, but also managed to get the event covered by
Geo News, DAWN News, and Sind TV. Three of our
members from Karachi including Ameer Hamaz, Ali
Reza Khatri and Danial were interviewed by the Geo and
Sind TV. PPA got the boast and lots of encouraging
comments from the enthralled visitors.
36 July 2009
Shandur Top by Kamran Safdar Many of photographers were interviewed Pictures displayed at T2F Gallery
by various TV channels
Group photo of Participants fromKarachi
White throated Kingfisher A railway station near Bolan, Balochistan

by Muzaffar H. Bukhari By Ednial
Credit also goes to PPA members from Karachi,

particularly, Sultana Tabassum Faroooqi for
volunteering herself to help organize the exhibition,
and Ali Reza, for coverage of the exhibition.
Shakeel Ajmal a PPA member and pro photographer

from Attock, was the most liked photographer and
was said to be the FIND of the exhibition.
On the whole, it was a very good experience for PPA

to successfully organize such an event. We plan to
hold the second exhibition along the same lines in
Islamabad sometimes around third quarter of this
year.
37
July 2009 3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association
Kutwal Lake by Farid Gujjar

SHANDUR
POLO
FESTIVAL
Polo at Shandur
Playing Polo on Top of the World

Text and photos By: Raja Amir
S handur invites visitors to

experience a traditional polo
tournament between the teams of
Chitral and Gilgit in every year of
July. The tournament is held at
Shandur Pass, the highest polo
ground in the world at an elevation
of 3,700 meters. The festival also
includes Folk music, dancing and a
camping village is set up.
Gilgit, Chitral and Skardu have

always played the game of polo
closest to its original form. In the
past, local Rajas, Mirs and Mehtars
were the patrons of this thrilling
game. At times, more than 50% of
the annual budget of their
principalities would be spent on
supporting the game.
38 July 2009
Historically the game goes back many centuries when the The remote wind-swept amphitheater of the Shandur Pass,
local Mehtars , Mirs and Rajas were patrons of polo and it located on the lofty border between Gilgit and Chitral,
was played, not only for pleasure, but also on celeberatory comes to life once a year every year, as the dramatic venue
and commemorative occasions. The Mehtar of Chitral would of the Shandur Polo Festival held during the first week of
send a message to his relatives - the Rajas of Ghizar, Yasin July.
and Ishkuman and the word would travel far down the valleys
to Punial Gilgit and Chilas where the challenge would be At a chilling elevation of 3,734 meters, this is the world's
taken up. But despite being dubbed as 'the game of kings', in highest polo field, set in a magnificent landscape of rolling
the Northern Areas, it is not an elitist sport, and often played pastures, crystalline azure lakes & Hindu-Raj mountains.
in village square on sorry nags or even on bicycles. It is the it is just the setting for the clash of the local polo titans,
local obsession along with music & dancing on Shandur. Chitral and Gilgit. This contest is considered the toughest
polo tournament in the world - with fraying tempers and
Above all the passion with which the game is played by the passions running high, the strain of the high altitude and
age-old rivals, make the Shandur Polo Festival an the ferocity of the game creates a drama in which horses
unforgettable occasion. A large tented village and bazaar is die and players invariably suffer grievous injuries. Yet
set up at the time of the festival where thousands of people despite all the hazards, the polo tradition continues
camp out and enjoy witnessing this thrilling game at the unabated.
world’s highest polo ground.
Shandur Lake
July 2009 38
Shandur Polo Ground
Shandur Polo Festival

It is advisable to be there one day in advance to enjoy all the offerings
of the festival. Activities at Shandur includes dance and music
performances by different groups, trout fishing, mountaineering,
trekking, hiking and of course, horse riding. Crystal clear lakes, snow
covered mountains, alpine flowers and vast stretches of green grass,
are added attractions.
Being at Shandur and watching the polo festival is indeed an

unforgettable experience, which one would never regret to have.
The author is a professional photographer, plus a web/graphics

designer based at Jhelum. Being in the photography business of his
own, he is into almost all kind of photography, particularly
landscape, and studio photography. The author can be reached at
amer_rohtas@hotmail.com
39 July 2009
3rd Eye
An Online quarterly photographic magazine of PPA
Issue 1, July 2009
hers’ Associati
on
rap
og
ak istani Phot
P
Disclaimer
Pakistani Photographers’ Association (PPA) provides the information contained in this online magazine
and links to its flickr web space solely as a resource. While PPA tries to provide high-quality content, it
does not guarantee the accuracy, reliability, or timeliness of this information; and therefore, will not be
liable in any capacity for damages or losses to the user that may result from the use of this information.
PPA, and its members, likewise will not be responsible for any errors, omissions, or inadvertent
alterations that may occur in the content of this magazine.

3rd Eye July 2009 Online Photography Magazine in Pakistan

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ation

Muzffar H. Bukhari, Edtitor

Dr. Zaheer Sattar, Rahimyar Khan

In this Issue Editor’s

Dear reader! This is your magazine, and we direly need your

This is all from the editor's desk. Please go through the

S ituated amidst the three majestic

Dhee Valley in KNP

Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Since the monsoon rains normally do not extend north of the

Photo By Muzffar H. Bukhari

Photo : Muzffar H. Bukhari

KKH near Khunjeerab Pass

Being a mountain community, people living in

Definition of a National Park

KNP is located in the extreme northeastern corner of Pakistan. It

Passu Glacier with Passu peak in Background as seen from KKH

Photo by Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Boundaries of the Park

According to the original notification of KNP, the total

Photo by Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Photo Credit: Ghulam Rasool Moughal/WWF-Pakisan

Himalayan Griffon Vulture Common Stonechat

Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Photo Credit: Ghulam Rasool Moughal/WWF-Pakisan

In the high mountains rainfall is low and winters are very

Threats to Wildlife in KNP

A major threat to the carnivores of KNP is poisoning by

Photo by Muzaffar H. Bukhari

The pastures and

There is no serious threat to wild ungulates in their core habitats

Guest House (VIP and standard rooms)

Photo Credit: Ghulam Rasool Moughal/WWF-Pakisan

River along KKH about 3 km before Dhee that

The guest houses of Forest and Wildlife

Its woven into Saraiki scent and Sindhi colors, represented by a

If you are an architectural geek, you might get disappointed by the

Bohng (the mosque complex) represents a monumental

The Bhong Mosque stands on a majestic citadel like a pearl. It is a part

The maintenance and minor extension work remains always in

Built/feels and operations

Photo by: Ameer Hamza

Ranikot is located about 30 km from the small town of

To get there one has to travel in one's own vehicle. The

Another way to travel to this place is by bus or train. In

Ranikot has four main entrances: Mohan gate (west

Photo by: Ameer Hamza

Photo by: Ameer Hamza

Photo by: Ameer Hamza

Photo Credit: Sultana Tabassum Photo Credit: Sultana Tabassum

Shigar is the gateway to the world's most

The older fort was

metres-high rock (fong) next to

From tourism standpoint, there is no region Shigar Fort

They are one of the earth's most interesting natural

of Pakistan which is chemically a mixture of water, mud, gases

The earliest account of the presence of mud

New Records of Mud Volcanoes in Pakistan

While conducting wildlife surveys in Babbro Kaur

Access to the Area

Visiting the Kundigo Kurt Mountain is not an easy

S.No. Name of Mud Details

The author is a field biologist and

During Ramazan, dates are the preferred way of