SHOPPI NG

Concerto ( p150 )
The place for settling many a musical score.
Noordermarkt ( p151 )
For art, antiques and assorted whatnots.
American Book Center ( p137 )
From art to Zen, all titles in English.
Droog Design ( p142 )
In Dutch, that means sizzling interiors.
Bloemenmarkt ( p150 )
Bag your beautiful bloomin bulbs here.
Puccini Bomboni ( p142 )
Sweet-smelling instruments of death by chocolate.
Santa Jet ( p148 )
How bout a grinning skull for someone you love?
Eva Damave ( p143 )
Tempting togs by a funky and unique stylist.
Miauw ( p146 )
Stock up on threads for all your nine lives.
Concrete ( p139 )
Where photos meet fashion under one roof.
Lonely Planet Publications
SHOPPI NG
SHOPPING STREETS
You wont find any huge shopping malls in
town, but you can scratch the chain-store
itch on Nieuwendijk and in the Magna Plaza
shopping gallery; the department and clothing
stores of busy Kalverstraat and Leidsestraat
are a little more upscale. Fancy PC Hooftstraat
is for major fashion brands like Chanel, Louis
Vuitton and Gucci.
The most satisfying browsing is among the
pint-sized boutiques of the Negen Straatjes
(Nine Alleys), within the Western Canal Belt.
The Jordaan bristles with quirky shops and
galleries, while antique and art buffs head
for the Nieuwe Spiegelstraat in the Southern
Canal Belt.
OPENING HOURS
Generally , shops are open between 9am and
6pm Tuesday to Saturday, with the exception
of Thursday, with late-night shopping until
9pm. Monday tends to have shorter hours,
from noon till 6pm, while shops in the Canal
Belt areas are generally open 1pm to 6pm
Sunday. Art galleries keep limited hours and
are often only open afternoons from Wednes-
day to Sunday. Shops selling smart drugs tend
to stay open into the evenings. Where hours
vary significantly from these opening times,
weve noted it in individual listings. Note,
however, that many shops operate on limited
schedules during summer holidays.
CONSUMER TAXES
The Dutch abbreviation for value-added tax
is BTW, and its calculated into the purchase
price. The standard rate of BTW is 19% (20%
from 2009), while a reduced rate of 6% applies
on certain items such as groceries and books.
Provided you are not a citizen of the European
Union, and you are buying expensive items
that you will export from the EU within three
months, you may be entitled to a refund of the
tax, minus a service fee.
The store must subscribe to the Global
Refund system (look for the sticker in the
window), your purchase there must total at
least 50 in a single day, and you must request
a Global Refund cheque at the time.
If you are departing the EU from Schiphol
airport, present your goods along with your
receipt, passport, air ticket and your Global
Refund cheque at the Global Refund office in
Terminal 3. You can receive cash, a credit to
your credit card or a bank cheque.
If you leave the EU from another airport,
inquire locally, but generally you must take
your goods and documents to customs for
authorisation.
BARGAINING
For a nation of born traders the Dutch dont
haggle much, if only because most retailers
arent set up for it. Flea-markets, art galleries
and antique shops are among the few places
where youll be tempted to try.
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CITY CENTRE
The old core contains Amsterdams greatest
stock of emporia, from multilevel department
stores to vendors of your favourite boudoir
duds. In Nieuwmarkt, much of the action takes
place at the Waterlooplein flea market, but veer
away and youll discover home-grown shops
that are much sweeter and more low-key.
MEDIEVAL CENTRE
HERMAN BROOD GALERIE
Map pp62-5 Art & Antiques
%623 37 66; Spuistraat 320
This gallery is dedicated to Herman Brood,
Amsterdams legendary rocker and club
promoter (19462001) who shone brightly
before crashing big-time on drugs and
alcohol. His oil paintings are upstairs from
the busy Caf Dante.
AMERICAN BOOK CENTER
Map pp62-5 Books
%625 55 37; www.abc.nl; Spui 12
Recently relocated here, this excellent five-
storey store is the biggest source of English-
language books in Amsterdam. Its greatest
strengths are in the artsy ground-floor
department, but upstairs theres fiction and
oodles of special-interest titles, plus a good
travel-guidebook section. It also stocks for-
eign periodicals (eg the New York Times).
ATHENAEUM BOOKSHOP &
NEWSAGENCY Map pp62-5 Books
%622 62 48; Spui 14-16
This multilevel store on the square has a vast
array of both usual and unusual books and
cheerful, helpful staff. The separate news-
agency on the corner is your best choice for
international newspapers and magazines.
AU BOUT DU MONDE Map pp62-5 Books
%625 13 97; Singel 313; hMon-Sat
From angels to Zen, this tranquil two-storey
shop stocks books on Eastern and Western
philosophy, Tibetan Buddhism, Freud, alter-
native medicine and pretty much anything
else for your religious, psychological or
spiritual needs.
WATERSTONES Map pp62-5 Books
%638 38 21; Kalverstraat 152
Four storeys and a central location near
the Spui make Waterstones a great re-
source for English-language books (often
discounted). Theres an emphasis on
travel guides, magazines, newspapers and
novels.
PINOKKIO Map pp62-5 Childrens
%622 89 14; www.pinokkio.net; Magna Plaza,
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182
This pleasant shop stocks wooden and
educational toys, rocking horses, wooden
vehicles, replica canal houses, mobiles and,
of course, lots of Pinocchio dolls. Since this
is Holland, theres also a Miffy section.
C&A Map pp62-5 Clothing
%530 71 50; Beurspassage 2
Theres little thats fancy about this Euro-
chain (whats a designer brand?), but its a
fine choice if you need inexpensive knocka-
bout clothes. Choose carefully and you may
even find some wares with style.
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Amsterdam was once the warehouse of the world, stuffed with riches from the far corners of
the earth. The Dutch empire has gone the way of the dodo, but vendors here still have a knack
of bringing you rare, exotic or just plain wacky goods. Sure, you may be able to find glowing
Mexican shrines or banana-flavoured condoms back home, but Amsterdam has entire shops
devoted to such items.
Some popular gifts include tulip bulbs, rounds of Gouda cheese and bottles of jenever (Dutch
gin). Fantastic bargains are rare, but its worth chasing photographic art, recorded music, vintage
and Dutch designer clothing, diamonds and antiquarian books. For a souvenir of quality, try a
Delft blue vase or a custom-made bong. Theres definitely something for everyone.
The Dutch have mastered the art of casual fashion, and it streams right out of the no-nonsense
side of the national character. The result is simple, affordable and practical designs that dont
get caught in the spokes.
The best shops are in charming canal houses on cobblestone streets, in a village-like ambience.
The Negen Straatjes area has the best boutiques. But Amsterdam also has wonderful outdoor
markets, from Waterloopleins vast fleamarket to more intimate, low-key venues where organic
produce, spices and flowers are sold from carts on tree-lined squares.
A SHOPPERS GLOSSARY
Virtually any sales clerk you meet in Amsterdam will speak English, but to make things quick, heres a short list of
words youre likely to encounter on signage:
kassa cashier
kassakorting discount taken at register
korting discount, as in 25% korting
laatste dagen final days
opruiming, uitverkoop clearance sale
soldes or sale sale
tot or t/m up to, as in tot 50% korting
vanaf or va literally and up, as in 20 va (20 and up). Note that this can be a clever ploy in which, for example,
a clothing rack marked 10 va includes just a few items at that price the rest can be much higher.
136 137
H&M Map pp62-5 Clothing
%624 06 24; Kalverstraat 125
This fashion chain store has up-to-the-
minute clothes for all ages at several
locations. You may find higher quality
elsewhere, but prices are remarkably low.
UNIVERSITY SHOP Map pp62-5 Clothing
%525 36 55; Spui 23
The University of Amsterdam has a lovely
logo, and you can wear it on your lovely
person with T-shirts or sweatshirts, or carry it
around on book bags or bottle openers.

DE BIJENKORF Map pp62-5 Department Store
%621 80 80; Dam 1
The citys most fashionable department
store in the highest-profile location, facing
the Royal Palace, it has a small restaurant
or snack bar on each floor. Design-con-
scious shoppers will enjoy the well-chosen
clothing, toys, household accessories and
books.
HEMA Map pp62-5 Department Store
%638 99 63; Nieuwendijk 174
What used to be the nations equivalent of
Marks & Spencer or Woolworths has under-
gone a facelift and now attracts as many
design aficionados as bargain hunters. Ex-
pect low prices, reliable quality and a wide
range of products, including good-value
wines and delicatessen goods.
MAISON DE BONNETERIE
Map pp62-5 Department Store
%531 34 00; Rokin 140
Exclusive and classic clothes for the whole
family are featured here. Men are particu-
larly well catered for with labels like Ralph
Lauren and Armani, best purchased during
the brilliant 50%-off sales, but there is still
plenty for the ladies. Note the amazing
chandeliers and beautiful glass cupola.
VROOM & DREESMANN
Map pp62-5 Department Store
%622 01 71; Kalverstraat 201
Slightly more upmarket than Hema, this na-
tional chain is popular for its clothing and
cosmetics. Its fabulous cafeteria, La Place,
serves well-priced, freshly prepared salads,
hot dishes and pastries.
FEMALE & PARTNERS
Map pp62-5 Erotica/Clothing
%620 91 52; www.femaleandpartners.nl;
Spuistraat 100
Everything you need for your inner domi-
natrixor the one whos waiting for you at
home. Female & Partners is filled with cloth-
ing, undies, leather and toys for women and
those who love them. Thank goodness men
arent the only ones who get to have fun!
LAUNDRY INDUSTRY Map pp62-5 Fashion
%420 25 54; www.laundryindustry.com; Spui 1
Hip, urban types head here for well-cut,
well-designed clothes by this Dutch design
house. Watch glamorous couples coveting
soft leather coats and perfectly fitted suits.
Theres another branch at Magna Plaza, but
the Spui location is the main store.
CRACKED KETTLE Map pp62-5 Food & Drink
%624 07 45; www.crackedkettle.nl; Raamstreeg 3
Cheers! Run by a couple of home brewers,
this delightful shop stocks about 80 Dutch
beers as well as German Rauchbier (smoked
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beer), Belgian Kriek and Great Divide Yeti
Imperial Stout, to name a few. It also carries
beer glasses, and ships worldwide.
DE BIERKONING Map pp62-5 Food & Drink
%625 23 36; Paleisstraat 125
Beer. Just beer. Some 950 varieties includ-
ing hundreds from Belgium, Germany, Brit-
ain and, of course, Holland plus glasses,
mugs and books on home brewing. Its cen-
trally located right near the Royal Palace, so
you have no excuse not to go.
LE CELLIER Map pp62-3 Food & Drink
%638 65 73; Spuistraat 116
Youll find a splendid selection of Dutch
jenevers, absinthe, spirits and liqueurs, a
super range of Old and New World wines
and around a hundred beers.
BEAUFORT Map pp62-5 Jewellery
%625 91 31; www.beaufortsieradenl.nl;
Grimburgwal 11; hTue-Sat
Exquisite handcrafted contemporary jewel-
lery is created on site; many of the pieces
combine silver and gold. The necklaces and
rings are particularly beautiful.
BLUE NOTE Map pp62-5 Music
%428 10 29; Gravenstraat 12
This is the place for jazz in Amsterdam.
Youll find a wide range of artists Dutch,
European and American as well as
Japanese pressings, lounge music, and a
few listening decks.
FAME MUSIC Map pp62-5 Music
%638 25 25; Kalverstraat 2-4
This megastore has an enormous number
of titles with broad (and mainstream)
collections of pop, jazz and classical CDs,
DVDs and videos. It also sells tickets to
big concerts. Sale prices can be quite
reasonable.
RITUALS Map pp62-5 Perfume & Cosmetics
%344 92 22; Kalverstraat 73
The flagship store of this heavenly brand
(now a successful global franchise) turns
out sublime products focused on enliven-
ing everyday cleaning, refreshing, relaxing
and energising rituals from bathing to
washing the dishes. We especially love its
Rice Scrub, Hammam Body Mud and Lotus
Massage Oil.
AMSTERDAM PHOTOGRAPHY
Map pp62-5 Photography
%621 12 56; www.scotteggert.com; Nieuwezijds
Voorburgwal 114; hnoon-8pm
Classic and experimental shots of Amster-
dam at its most photogenic, especially at
night. Photos can be printed up to A2 size,
matted and framed. Its congenial owner,
Scott from New York, is happy to mail your
choice home.
CONCRETE Map pp62-5 Photography/Fashion
%0900 262 73 83; www.concrete.nl; Spuistraat 250
Part exhibition space showing rotating exhi-
bitions of adventurous photography, graph-
ics and illustration, and part cool clothes
store. Features floating racks of zany Walter
van Beirendonck T-shirts and jeans, Dutch
labels Razk and D-Cent, plus interesting
gear from Maharishi, Obey, Buddhist Punk,
Michiko Koshino, Homecore and Minus Ung.
KALVERTOREN SHOPPING CENTRE
Map pp62-5 Shopping Centre
www.kalvertoren.nl; Singel 457
This popular, modern shopping centre con-
tains Vroom & Dreesmann, a small Hema,
and big-brand fashion stores like Replay,
Quiksilver, Levis, Timberland and DKNY.
MAGNA PLAZA Map pp62-5 Shopping Centre
%626 91 99; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182
This grand 19th-century landmark building,
once the main post office, is now home to
a marvellous upmarket shopping mall with
over 40 stores stocking fashion, gifts and
jewellery everything from Mango and
Sissy Boy to Pinokkio.
CHILLS & THRILLS Map pp62-5 Smart Drugs
%638 00 15; Nieuwendijk 17
Always packed with tourists straining to hear
each other over thumping techno music,
this busy shop sells herbal trips, E-testing
kits, psychoactive cacti, amino-acid and vita-
min drinks, novelty bongs and life-size alien
sculptures. Check out the minivaporiser, a
smoke-free way to consume grass.
INNERSPACE Map pp62-5 Smart Drugs
%624 33 38; www.innerspace.nl; Spuistraat 108
Known for good service and information,
this large shop started as a supplier to large
parties, and now the shop sells herbal
ecstasy, psychoactive plants and cacti. True
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CLOTHING SIZES
Womens clothing
Aus/UK 8 10 12 14 16 18
Europe 36 38 40 42 44 46
Japan 5 7 9 11 13 15
USA 6 8 10 12 14 16
Womens shoes
Aus/USA 5 6 7 8 9 10
Europe 35 36 37 38 39 40
France only 35 36 38 39 40 42
Japan 22 23 24 25 26 27
UK 3 4 5 6 7 8
Mens clothing
Aus 92 96 100 104 108 112
Europe 46 48 50 52 54 56
Japan S M M L
UK/USA 35 36 37 38 39 40
Mens shirts (collar sizes)
Aus/Japan 38 39 40 41 42 43
Europe 38 39 40 41 42 43
UK/USA 15 15 16 16 17 17
Mens shoes
Aus/UK 7 8 9 10 11 12
Europe 41 42 43 44 46 47
Japan 26 27 27 28 29 30
USA 7 8 9 10 11 12
Measurements approximate only, try before you buy
138 139
to its origins, its also a good place for party
info and tickets.
MAGIC MUSHROOM GALLERY
Map pp62-5 Smart Drugs
%427 57 65; www.magicmushroom.com;
Spuistraat 249
The nifty bubble-glass displays will put
the zap on your head even before you buy
anything. The cool, open-plan gallery has
the best choice of shroom products and
sou venirs in town. Feel free to wobble the
garden swing while you nurse a smart
drink, or wait for the herbal XTC to kick in.
BAZAR Map pp62-5 Souvenirs
%638 44 04; Nieuwendijk 128
If you collect kitsch souvenirs or want to
buy the boys on the bucks night some gifts
(so they dont go blabbing back home),
then this is the place to head for the widest
range of ridiculous tourist trinkets every-
thing from rude-shape egg fryers to fluffy
clog slippers.
3-D HOLOGRAMMEN
Map pp62-5 Speciality Shop
%624 72 25; Grimburgwal 2; hnoon-6pm Tue-
Fri, noon-5.30pm Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun & Mon
This fascinating (and trippy) collection of
holographic pictures, jewellery and stickers
will delight even the most jaded peepers.
BLOND Map pp62-5 Speciality Shop
%06 2468 4086; www.blond-amsterdam.nl;
Singel 369; hTue-Sat
Actual blondes Femque and Janneke
glaze plates and dishes in designs that
are hilarious, adorable and very colourful:
ladies lunching, beach scenes, chocolates,
and cheeses. You can custom order as well.
FAIR TRADE SHOP Map pp62-5 Speciality Shop
%625 22 45; Heiligeweg 45
This charity shop features quality, stylish
products including clothes, toys, CDs and
ceramics from developing countries. The
company works directly with producers and
provides ongoing business training.
RED LIGHT DISTRICT
ANTIQUARIAAT KOK Map pp62-5 Books
%623 11 91; www.nvva.nl; Oude Hoogstraat 14-18
A wide and engaging range of used and
antiquarian stock (literature, coffee-table
books, old prints etc) is sold here, including
biology, art and architecture titles.
WONDERWOOD
Map pp62-5 Design & Homewares
%625 37 38; www.wonderwood.nl; Rusland 3;
hnoon-6pm Wed-Sat & by appt
Head here for originals or reproductions of
40s and 50s Dutch furniture design. Classics
include the T46 coffee table by Hein Stolle,
works by Gijs Bakker and Han Pieck, and the
box chair, which folds up into its own box
you can actually ship it with your luggage!
GEELS & CO Map pp62-5 Food & Drink
%624 06 83; Warmoesstraat 67; hMon-Sat
Operating from this aromatic store for over
140 years, this distinguished tea-and-coffee
merchant also sells chocolate, teapots and
coffee plungers. Be sure to visit the interest-
ing little museum (h2-4.30pm Tue & Sat) upstairs.
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HANS APPENZELLER Map pp62-5 Jewellery
%626 82 18; www.appenzeller.nl; Grimburgwal 1;
hTue-Sat
Appenzeller is one of Amsterdams leading
designers in gold and stone, known for the
simplicity and strength of his designs. If his
sparse work is not to your taste, all along
the same street is a row of jewellery shops
of all kinds.
ABSOLUTE DANNY Map pp62-5 Sex Shop
%421 09 15; www.absolutedanny.com; Oudezijds
Achterburgwal 78
Named by Dutch Playboy as Amsterdams
classiest sex shop, Absolute Danny special-
ises in fetish clothing, lingerie and leather,
plus hard-core videos and dildos just for fun.
KOKOPELLI Map pp62-5 Smart Drugs
%421 70 00; www.consciousdreams.nl;
Warmoesstraat 12
Were it not for its main trade, you might
swear this large, beautiful space was a fash-
ionable clothing or homewares store. In addi-
tion to mushrooms and smart drugs, theres
an art gallery, internet facilities, books and a
chill-out lounge area overlooking Damrak.

CONDOMERIE HET GULDEN VLIES
Map pp62-5 Speciality Shop
%627 41 74; www.condomerie.nl; Warmoesstraat
141; hMon-Sat
Where the well-dressed Johnson shops.
Perfectly positioned for the Red Light
District, this boutique stocks hundreds of
types of condoms, lubricants and saucy
gifts. Some of the condoms are decorated
like minitropical scenes, or may remind you
of your favourite cartoon character.
HIMALAYA Map pp62-5 Speciality Shop
%626 08 99; www.himalaya.nl; Warmoesstraat
56; hMon-Sat
What a surprise: a peaceful, New Age oasis
in the Red Light District. Stock up on crys-
tals, incense and oils, ambient CDs and
books on the healing arts, then visit the
lovely tearoom.

NIEUWMARKT
JACOB HOOY & CO
Map pp62-5 Alternative Medicine
%624 30 41; Kloveniersburgwal 12; hMon-Sat
This charming chemists shop with its
walls of massive, wooden drawers has
been selling medicinal herbs, homeopathic
remedies and natural cosmetics since 1743.
You can also get teas and seasonings for
chicken or fish.
PO CHAI TONG
Map pp62-5 Alternative Medicine
%428 49 56; Waterlooplein 13; hMon-Sat
If nothing seems to take away your stress,
fatigue or jet lag, pay a visit to Dr Kai
Zhangs kindly Chinese herbal-medicine
and acupuncture shop. Its far from fancy,
but clients have included opera singers and
conductors from the nearby Stopera.
TYPO GALLERY Map pp62-5 Art
%623 85 52; www.ewaldspieker.nl; Groenburgwal
63; hring for opening hours
A peek inside the artistic mind of Ewald
Spieker, who creates graphic art out of
typography. Hes been exhibited all over
and published books of his work. Just a few
of his works are for sale; the red YES made
of stacks of cardboard had our name writ-
ten all over it.
BOOK EXCHANGE Map pp62-5 Books
%626 62 66; Kloveniersburgwal 58
Near the university, this rabbit warren
features four rooms of secondhand books,
with temptingly priced occult, sci-fi and
detective novels, many of them in English.
NIJHOF & LEE Map pp62-5 Books
%620 39 80; www.nijhoflee.nl; Staalstraat 13a;
hTue-Sat
Design fans will want to head here for a
swell selection of international architecture,
art and typography books and posters in
an intimate but contemporary setting. One
wall boasts a substantial selection of well-
priced remainders.
DE BEESTENWINKEL Map pp62-5 Childrens
%623 18 05; Staalstraat 11; hTue-Sun
From teeny tiny teddy bears to pink plastic
pig snouts, this pleasantly crowded shop
sells de best (best) of de beesten (animals).
Other bests: plush toys from great toy-
makers, lamps in animal shapes, and lots of
plastic reptiles.
KNUFFELS Map pp62-5 Childrens
%623 06 32; St Antoniesbreestraat 39-51
Avert the kids eyes or they will be drawn
by the irresistible force of bobbing mobiles
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SMART SHOPS & SHROOMS
Just as raves and house music were hitting Amsterdam in the early 1990s, smart-drug shops began popping up all
over town and filling a retail niche for New Age and designer drugs. Mostly funky but occasionally quite swanky, these
vendors now stock a wild array of hallucinogens such as herbal joints, seeds (poppy, marijuana, psychoactive), mood
enhancers and aphrodisiacs, both organic and synthetic in origin. Like marijuana in Dutch coffeeshops, these soft drugs
are perfectly legal to buy over the counter in Amsterdam, if not for you to take back home.
That said, the days may be numbered for magic mushrooms, or at least ones sold legally. Named for the psychotropic
chemicals psilocybin and psilocin, these fungi have been blamed for a recent series of high-profile incidents involving
tourists, including the death of a French schoolgirl who jumped from an Amsterdam bridge after eating the plants.
As we went to press, the Dutch government had called for a ban on magic mushrooms, and barring a last-minute
compromise such as stiffer controls on buyers, as proposed by Amsterdam mayor Job Cohen smart shops will take
shrooms off their shelves in 2008.
Whatever mind-bending products you do pick up in a smart shop, ask what dosage to consume and what to expect
from your trip, and staff should be eager to put you on the right plane.
140 141
from the ceiling of this busy corner shop.
Adults, too, may be drawn in by the soft
toys, puppets, beautiful mobiles, teddies
and jigsaw puzzles.
RIELE Map pp62-5 Clothing & Accessories
%623 34 08; St Antoniebreestraat 128; hdaily
Fancy and edgy at the same time, this
minimalist space lets the clothes do the
talking. Designers include Ines Raspoort
(Dutch), E Play (Italian), Tone Barker (Dan-
ish) and Ghost (British). Accent them with
accessories from the Dutch designers Chick
on a Mission.
DROOG DESIGN
Map pp62-5 Design & Homewares
%523 50 59; www.droogdesign.nl; Staalstraat 7b;
hnoon-6pm Tue-Sun
A relative newcomer on the international
design scene, this slick Amsterdam-based
firm is already a market leader with inven-
tions like the 85-lamp chandelier, the cow
chair, and curtains with dress patterns.
There are over 180 products by 100-plus
designers.
HENXS Map pp62-5 Fashion
%638 94 78; http://shop.henxs.com; St Antonies-
breestraat 136
The two tiny floors of this indie clothes
store are crammed with fave labels of
skaters and graffiti artists such as Hardcore,
Bombers Best, Evisu and G-Star, along with
graffiti supplies and edgy accessories.
PUCCINI BOMBONI Map pp62-5 Food
%626 54 74; www.puccinibomboni.com;
Staalstraat 17
Were not the only ones who go gaga
over Puccinis large, handmade chocolate
bonbons with rich fillings. Unforgettable
chocolates include plum, marzipan or the
calvados cup. There is another branch at
Singel 184 (%427 83 41). Note: shops have
been known to close in warm weather
for the sake of the chocolates, of course.
SEVENTYFIVE Map pp62-5 Shoes
%626 46 11; Nieuwe Hoogstraat 24
At this true temple to trainers, stimulate
your sports-shoe obsession with brands like
Gola, Diesel, Everlast, Nike and Adidas. Natu-
rally, Von Dutch makes an appearance too.
T KLOMPENHUISJE Map pp62-5 Souvenirs
%622 81 00; Nieuwe Hoogstraat 9a; hMon-Sat
Reasonably priced and finely crafted,
traditional Dutch clogs are just the thing
to potter around the garden in, away from
prying eyes. Good ones are surprisingly
comfortable. Theres also handmade leather
goods and babys woollen slippers.
JOES VLIEGERWINKEL
Map pp62-5 Speciality Shop
%625 01 39; Nieuwe Hoogstraat 19; hMon-Sat
Whether youre after a kite for the kids that
flies in nice patterns, or youre looking for
something more exotic, head to this spe-
cialised kite shop where you can also buy
build-it-yourself kits.
JORDAAN
Shops here have an artsy, eclectic, home-made
feel. The area around Elandsgracht is the place
for art, particularly photography, and speci-
ality shops from hats to cats. On Haarlem-
merdijk, the extension of Haarlemmerstraat,
lots of new shops have opened to pick up the
overflow of shoppers.
CLAIRE V Map p86 Accessories
%421 90 00; www.clairev.nl; Prinsengracht 234f;
hMon-Sat
The silk handbags, wraps and accessories
embroidered with patterns and floral
designs are gorgeous, but thats not the
only reason theyre worthy. Claires wares
are made at a training centre for Cambo-
dian landmine victims, so by shopping here
youll look good and do good.
ROCK ARCHIVE Map p86 Art
%423 04 89; www.rockarchive.com; Prinsengracht
110; hWed-Sat
The whites are white and the blacks are
black at this professional shop of limited-
edition rocknroll prints. Robert Plant,
Debbie Harry, Sting and tons of others are
all there to be had for small change, in a
format of your impeccable choice.
JOSINE BOKHOVEN Map p86 Art & Antiques
%623 65 98; www.galeriejosinebokhoven.nl;
Prinsengracht 154
Across the canal from the Anne Frank Huis,
this friendly gallery features contemporary
art and the work of emerging young artists,
including German artist Ralph Fleck.
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HUG GALLERY FOR INTERNATIONAL
PHOTOGRAPHY Map p86 Art Gallery
%489 42 40; www.hughug.info; 1e
Tuindwarsstraat 16
Small but important gallery that attracts
some of the top names, especially from
Britain. Its one of the few galleries that
partners with photography museums like
Huis Marseille ( p95 ) and FOAM ( p99 ).
KLEURGAMMA Map p86 Art Gallery
%423 05 03; Hazenstraat 51-55; hMon-Sat
In this minimalist space you may find the
work of some nearby photographers on the
walls, or have your own prints processed.
Youll feel better knowing that the Rijks
and Van Gogh Museums get theirs done
here too.
TORCH GALLERY Map p86 Art Gallery
%626 02 84; Lauriergracht 94; hThu-Sat
Torch, one of Amsterdams most cutting-
edge galleries, is proud of its diverse
selection. Around a dozen shows per year
include photography and new media from
many countries, and occasional paint-
ing and sculpture, from artists like Anton
Corbijn (whose coverage of U2 was famous)
and Annie Sprinkle.
ENGLISH BOOKSHOP Map p86 Books
%626 42 30; http://shop.englishbookshop.nl;
Lauriergracht 71; hTue-Sun
This attractive, canalside shop has a well-
chosen selection of English-language
biographies, novels and translations of the
works of Dutch writers.
FOTOGRAFIA Map p86 Books
%639 39 39; 2e Laurierdwarsstraat 60-64;
hTue-Sat
This classy shop is as simple as a photo
lab and stocked full of publications featur-
ing the likes of Alfred Stieglitz, Charlotte
Dumas, Rineke Dijkstra and Magritte.
BROER & ZUS Map p86 Childrens
%422 90 02; www.broerenzus.nl; Rosengracht 94;
hMon-Sat
Cosy little Bro & Sis specialises in Dutch
designers and fabrics for kids from birth to
six years. You can get brands like Kidscase,
tiny tops emblazoned with slogans like Mr
Charming and ladykiller, and wild prints
(think Hawaiian shirts).
MECHANISCH SPEELGOED
Map p86 Childrens
%638 16 80; Westerstraat 67; hMon, Tue,
Thu-Sat
This fun shop is crammed full of nostalgic
toys including snow-domes, glow-lamps,
masks, finger puppets and wind-up toys.
And who doesnt need a good rubber
chicken every once in a while?
EVA DAMAVE Map p86 Fashion
%627 73 25; www.evadamave.nl; Lauriersd-
warsstraat 51c; hWed-Sat
Eva Damave creates funky woollen sweat-
ers and zip jackets with her signature front
patchwork panels made up of graphic
cotton, silk and wool squares. She only
produces one-offs or in small series, so
youre unlikely to see anyone else wearing
your woolly knit.
DE BELLY Map p86 Food
%330 94 83; Nieuwe Leliestraat 174
This organic supermarket, in the Jordaan
for over three decades, has a great bak-
ery and a small but smart selection of
prepared foods, even organic tarts and
chocolates.
T ZONNETJE Map p86 Food
%623 00 58; Haarlemmerdijk 45; hTue-Sat
In a space thats been a teashop since 1642,
you can find teas from all over the world,
coffees and implements, and be waited on
by a commendably cheerful owner. High
tea is served upstairs (reserve for large
groups).
HET OUD-HOLLANDSCHE
SNOEPWINKELTJE Map p86 Food & Candy
%420 73 90; Egelantiersdwarsstraat 2
This corner shop is lined with jar after
apothecary jar of Dutch penny candies with
flavours from chocolate to coffee, all man-
ner of fruit and the inscrutable, salty Dutch
liquorice known as drop.
ARNOLD CORNELIS Map p86 Food & Drink
%625 85 85; Elandsgracht 78; hMon-Sat
Your dinner hosts will think youre in the
know if you present them with something
from this long-standing shop. Just a sam-
ple: marzipan fruits, chocolate bonbons
with wasabi (it creeps up on you) and blue
spheres made with Malaga wine. At lunch,
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grab a flaky pastry filled with cheese, meat
or vegetables. There is another branch at
Van Baerlestraat 93 (Map p110 ; %662 12 28).
JG BEUNE Map p86 Food & Drink
%624 83 56; Haarlemmerdijk 156-158
This elegant sweet shop with original
antique fittings has specialised in pastry
and chocolate-making since 1882. Buy a
box of delicious rich milk chocolates in the
shape of Amsterdammertjes, the cast iron
bollards around the city that protect you
from traffic.
GOLDSTRASSE Map p86 Jewellery
%420 20 95; Elandsgracht 89; hWed-Sat
Some 14 designers from the Netherlands,
Germany, Norway, Austria and more
exhibit here. One example is Amsterdam-
based Marina Alexandre, a jewellery
designer and teacher. Youll see rings in
gold, silver and silicone. Fittingly, since
many of the artists graduated from the
Rietveld Academy, works here are more
like wearable art.
DISCOSTARS Map p86 Music
%626 11 77; Haarlemmerdijk 86
Both the disco generation and the disco
sucks generation will enjoy this reposi-
tory of the music of yesteryear. If any of
the names Olivia Newton-John, Engelbert
Humperdinck, Paul Young, Celia Cruz,
Candy Dulfer, Buddy Holly, Yves Montand,
Doris Day or Roy Rogers mean anything to
you, youll find lots more to like.
LA SAVONNERIE Map p86 Perfumes & Cosmetics
%428 11 39; www.savonnerie.nl; Prinsengracht
294; hTue-Sun
Aromatic Savonnerie makes more than 80
natural soaps on the premises, as well as
stocking wonderful varieties from around
the world from rustic Aleppan olive-oil
soap to gentle Belgian donkey-milk soap.
Theres an enormous range of loofahs,
sponges, back-scrubbers and gift-packs.
CATS & THINGS Map p86 Speciality Shop
%428 30 28; Hazenstraat 26
Head here when the cat (or cat-lover) back
home deserves a souvenir. Theres the
expected assortment of kitty toys, sculp-
tures, grooming needs, beds and climbers,
but this shop proves that feline-themed
merchandise need not be kitschy and can
even be cool.
CHRISTODOULOU & LAM
Map p86 Speciality Shop
%320 22 69; Rozengracht 42
Handwoven Tibetan silk pillows, velvet
throws and hand-beaded saris from this
treasure-trove of sumptuous soft furnish-
ings will transform your home into a plush
sanctuary. Its a real festival of colours.
DE LACH Map p86 Speciality Shop
%626 66 25; www.moviepostersdelach.com; 1e
Bloemdwarsstraat 14; hTue, Thu-Sat
This eccentric corner shop sells vintage
movie posters from all over the world
(eg the Italian version of Some Like it Hot)
from 12 to 1000. Theres a mini Walk of
Fame, signed by Dutch stars, on the path
outside.
INTERNATIONAAL DESIGN CENTRUM
Map p86 Speciality Shop
%521 87 10; Rozengracht 215-217; hTue-Sat
Begun over a century ago, this shop has
repped the forefront of Dutch design ever
since Gispen, Edra and Artifoort and
some foreign designers as well. Its affiliate,
De Kasstoor (across the street), applies the
same design concept to kitchens and light-
ing (towel hooks are simultaneously slick
and cute).
KITSCH KITCHEN Map p86 Speciality Shop
%622 82 61; www.kitschkitchen.nl; Rozengracht
8-12
You want it flowered, frilly, colourful, over
the top or just made from plastic? Chances
are youll find it here everything from
handbags to homewares to kiddie toys
and doll gowns. Plus lamps, Mexican table-
cloths, pink plastic chandeliers from India
and, of course, bouquets of plastic flowers.
LA DIABLITA Map p86 Speciality Shop
%06 1085 7333; Binnen Oranjestraat 11; hMon
& Wed-Sat
Youve got a night on the town and need
sparkly, spangly jewellery, gold sandals,
yellow shoes or pink high-tops? This tiny
storefront off the Haarlemmerdijk can help
you. You say you need the same for your
young daughter? They have a small selec-
tion for her too.
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NOU MOE STRIPWINKEL
Map p86 Speciality Shop
%693 63 45; Lindenstraat 1
This tiny corner shop features Asterix to
Garfield, Tintin to 24 (yes, that 24). More
importantly, it sells the merchandise: soft
toys, notebooks, stickers, games, coffee
mugs and bedroom slippers.
PETSALON Map p86 Speciality Shop
%624 73 85; www.petsalon.nl; Hazenstraat 3;
hWed-Sat
In Dutch a pet is a cap, and lifelong milliner
Ans Wesseling has been designing hats
from this shop since around 1990. One per-
ennial favourite has an elaborately woven
net down the back, which gives new mean-
ing to letting your hair down. Step into his
workshop and gasp.
GALLERIA DARTE RINASCIMENTO
Map p86 Traditional Souvenirs
%622 75 09; www.delft-art-gallery.com;
Prinsengracht 170
This pretty shop sells Royal Delftware
ceramics (both antique and new), all man-
ner of vases, platters, brooches, Christmas
ornaments and interesting 19th-century
wall tiles and plaques.

WESTERN CANAL BELT
You could easily spend all of your shopping
time in Amsterdam indeed all your time in
Amsterdam, period in the Negen Straatjes
(Nine Alleys) in the Canal Belt just east of the
Jordaan. The selection is arty, worthwhile and
constantly changing, and lots of cafs mean
plenty of break time.
KLEIN ANTIEK Map p92 Antiques
%622 82 61; Gasthuismolensteeg 11; h11am-
6pm Tue-Sat
Tiles from tip to toe, including Delft blue, as
well as Dutch pottery, some going back to
medieval times. Dont expect great bargains
(broken pieces sell from 25), but its a
lovely place to shop.
NIC NIC Map p92 Antiques & Kitsch
%622 85 23; www.nicnicdesign.com;
Gasthuismolensteeg 5
A trip here is like a visit to a gallery of 20th-
century design. Cramped shelves take you
from Art Deco to Bauhaus, googie, the 70s,
The Simpsons and heaven knows what else.
MENDO Map p92 Art & Antiques
%612 12 15; Berenstraat 11; hWed-Sun
The Mendo ad agency has opened this
smart, black-walled gallery specialising in
young Dutch painters. Works range from
bright to disturbing-but-alluring. It also
sells an intriguing selection of art, design,
architecture and photography books.
ARCHITECTURA & NATURA
Map p92 Books
%623 61 86; www.architectura.nl; Leliegracht 22;
hMon-Sat
This charming canalside shop has art,
architecture, design, landscape and coffee-
table books. Upstairs, Architectuurantiquariat
Opbouw (Architecture Antique Shop; %638 70 18) has
a selection of its namesake.
BOEKIE WOEKIE Map p92 Books
%639 05 07; Berenstraat 16; hnoon-6pm Tue-
Fri, noon-5pm Sat
While other shops handle art books, here
they sell books as art, created by artists
specifically for this medium. Some tell sto-
ries (elegantly illustrated, naturally), others
are riffs on graphic motifs; you may want to
browse for a long time.
VAN RAVENSTEIN Map p92 Clothing
%639 00 67; Keizersgracht 359
Chic men and women shop here for upmar-
ket Dutch and Belgian designers including
Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester,
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SHOPPING STRIPS TO WANDER
Albert Cuypmarkt ( p118 ) Soak up local colour,
snap up exotic produce.
PC Hooftstraat ( p109 ) If youve got doubloons
to spare, this street has the citys most high-end
fashions.
Haarlemmerstraat (Map p92 ) Head west to this
up-and-coming street for the newest and coolest.
Negen Straatjes ( p91 ) Lose yourself in the Nine
Alleys, where boutiques specialise in everything
from clothing to art to tempting chocolates.
Spiegel Quarter ( p107 ) Hunt for antiques in this
quarter in the Southern Canal Belt.
144 145
Dirk Bikkembergs, Martin Margiela and
Viktor & Rolf.
VOLKSBOND SHOP Map p92 Clothing
%428 30 72; Haarlemmerstraat 146-148
A relic from the days when Haarlemmer-
straat was not so chic. Proceeds from sales
of used clothing (most items 0.50 to 10)
help finance facilities for the homeless:
halfway houses, counselling services and
the like.
SKINS COSMETICS Map p92 Cosmetics
%528 69 22; www.skins.nl; Runstraat 9
The Netherlands exclusive importer of
special brands of fragrances, cosmetics and
skin-care and beauty products: think Aesop,
Dyptique, Etro, Laura Mercier and the Art
of Shaving. They also do makeup sessions
and facials.
FROZEN FOUNTAIN
Map p92 Design & Homewares
%622 93 75; www.frozenfountain.nl; Prinsen-
gracht 629; hMon-Sat
The citys best-known showcase of furn-
iture and interior design. Prices are not
cheap, but wares are offbeat and very
memorable (designer pen-knives, kitchen
gadgets).
BE INNOCENT Map p92 Fashion
%320 59 87; Oude Spiegelstraat 9
Style-savvy fashionistas will be familiar with
these Victorian Gothicinspired frilly baby-
doll dresses from the elegant Gothic Lolita
look of the Japanese Harajuku subculture.
Although it took off in Japan in the 90s,
its recent appropriation by Gwen Stefani is
now popularising it in the West.
EXOTA Map p92 Fashion
%620 91 02; www.exota.com; Hartenstraat 10
Head here for hip gear from indie labels
such as King Louie and Aem Kei to global
brands such as Kookai and French Con-
nection. Also has kitsch accessories such
as kooky dolly bags by local designer Olga
Harbidge.
FATES Map p92 Fashion
%624 05 00; Herenstraat 19
Modern fashion accessories made of natu-
ral materials, from fair-trade studios in India
and Southeast Asia. We were particularly
taken with the groovy tulip-shaped bags
from Bali, diaphanous silk shawls and fresh-
water pearl necklaces.
LADY DAY Map p92 Fashion
%623 58 20; Hartenstraat 9
This is the premier location for unearthing
spotless vintage clothes from Holland and
elsewhere. The leather jackets, swingin
1960s and 70s wear, and woollen sailors
coats are well-priced winners. There are
also some mens suits and new shoes.
LAURA DOLS Map p92 Fashion
%624 90 66; www.lauradols.nl; Wolvenstraat 7
Compulsive style-watchers head to this
vintage-clothing store for fur coats, 1920s
beaded dresses, lace blouses and 40s
movie-star accessories like hand-stitched
leather gloves.
LOCAL SERVICE Map p92 Fashion
%620 86 38; Keizersgracht 400-402
Media types (male at 400; female at 402)
hunt here for the latest Paul Smith (Amster-
dams exclusive dealer for his main line),
and the Ghost, Stone Island and Dreikorn
collections.
MIAUW Map p92 Fashion
%422 05 61; www.miauw.com; Hartenstraat 36
Analik is one of Amsterdams edgiest young
designers. Her latest enterprise, Miauw, is a
showcase for her idiosyncratic collections,
and likeminded labels such as Preen, Karen
Walker, Kokon to Zai, and Henrick Vibskof.
It also has changing exhibitions of graphic,
media, graffiti and conceptual art.
URI DURI Map p92 Fashion
%422 94 57; Huidenstraat 30
South Korean An-Su Kims tiny boutique
stocks funky little dresses (little being the
key word) in retro fabrics that she de-
signs and her mother and sister sew up in
Seoul. These sassy numbers you wont find
elsewhere are teensy but theyre worth
dieting for.
ZIPPER Map p92 Fashion
%623 73 02; Huidenstraat 7
Amsterdam hipsters head here for seriously
nostalgic, retro secondhand gear wacky
printed shirts, stovepipe jeans, 40s zoot
suits, porkpie hats and the like.
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MEEUWIG & ZN Map p92 Food
%626 52 86; Haarlemmerstraat 70; hMon-Sat
Fill your own bottle from metal crocks con-
taining over 50 types of olive oil from around
the world. Youll also find bottles of gourmet
vinegar, mustard, chutney and fresh olives.
UNLIMITED DELICIOUS Map p92 Food
%622 48 29; Haarlemmerstraat 122
Is it ever! Its tempting to dive into the gor-
geous, sculptural cakes and tarts, but
if you can walk past them to the dozens
of varieties of chocolates made in-house.
Some of the more outlandish combinations
(that somehow work) are rosemary sea salt,
caramel cayenne and Laphroaig whisky.
More standard choices include coffee, nou-
gat and our favourite: Ceylon cinnamon.
DE KAASKAMER Map p92 Food & Drink
%623 34 83; Runstraat 7
A small shop with 440 cheeses from around
Europe and Holland, and deli items like
pt, cured meats and baguettes. At lunch
time it does a roaring sandwich trade.
URBAN PICNIC Map p92 Food & Drink
%320 88 66; www.urbanpicnic.net; Oude
Spiegelstraat 4
Everything you need for a picnic in the park
or a snack for the train: baskets, plasticware,
paper goods, nifty biodegradable wooden
utensils and, oh yes, the food, like sand-
wiches of smoked Irish salmon with horse-
radish cream, or lamb sausage with mustard
mayo.
NIEUWS Map p92 Gag Gifts
%627 95 40; Prinsengracht 89
A mind-boggling array of kooky trinkets
cram this entertaining store from quirky
action figures (we love the Crazy Cat Lady,
the Obsessive Compulsive, Rosie the Riveter
and Albine Bowler!) to mini patron saints,
foreplay dice and voodoo dolls. Travellers
love the Wash Away Your Sins soap.
GAMEKEEPER Map p92 Games
%638 15 79; Hartenstraat 14
The selection of board games is dizzying,
as is the imagination that went into making
them. Start with checkers, chess and mah
jong, and move on to Cathedral (build a city
in the style of the Great Wall of China or
the souk in Marrakech) or Rush Hour (help
a car get out of traffic). Cooperative games
encourage players to play with, not against,
each other.
BEADIES Map p92 Jewellery
%428 51 61; Huidenstraat 6
Once the funky jewellery in the window
draws you in, youll find yourself here for
hours selecting gorgeous beads, gems,
charms and trinkets to design your own
necklaces and bracelets. Our advice: dont
start from scratch, opt for a variation on
Beadies fab designs.
ZINNE & MINNE Map p92 Sex Shop
%330 34 82; Wolvenstraat 89
Women wont find this sensual store the
least bit intimidating and its lovely owner,
Inez Reijbroek, is happy to help or leave
to browse. Try Geishas Secrets, with es-
sential love oils and tickle feathers, or the
Kamasutra Bedside Box with honey dust
and massage oil.
ANTONIA BY YVETTE Map p92 Shoes
%627 24 33; www.antoniabyyvette.nl;
Gasthuismolensteeg 12
If Sex and the City was shot in Amsterdam,
we bet that the girls would spend half their
time in this shop. Shoes, boots, sandals and
espadrilles run from supremely classy to
just plain fun. Theres also a small section
for guys.
HESTER VAN EEGHEN Map p92 Shoes
%626 92 11; www.hestervaneeghen.com;
Hartenstraat 1; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat
Designed in Amsterdam and handcrafted
in Italy from fine leather, internationally re-
nowned Hester van Eeghens unique shoes
are for those who dare to dress their feet
dramatically in bright colours, fur suede,
and geometric patterns and prints. Her
handbags are just as attention- grabbing.
AMSTERDAM WATCH COMPANY
Map p92 Speciality Shop
%389 27 89; www.amsterdamwatchcompany.nl;
Hartenstraat 4; hTue-Sat
A husband and wife team of watchmakers
restore old watches (postwar to mid-1970s)
and are the exclusive Amsterdam dealers of
such brands as Germanys D Dornblth and
the Dutch Christiaan van der Klaauw, who
makes fewer than 200 watches a year.
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BRILMUSEUM Map p92 Speciality Shop
%421 24 14; www.brilmuseumamsterdam.nl;
Gasthuismolensteeg 7; hWed-Sat
This long-standing shop is an institution,
both for its wares and its presentation. You
can take in the 700-year history of eye-
glasses as well as a very 21st-century col-
lection, some of which is pretty outlandish.
DE WITTE TANDEN WINKEL
Map p92 Speciality Shop
%623 34 43; Runstraat 5
We love shops that are obsessed, and
The White-Teeth Shop certainly is with
dental hygiene. Theres a huge selection
of toothbrushes, toothpastes from around
the world, brushing accessories you never
knew you needed and friendly advice.
SANTA JET Map p92 Speciality Shop
%427 20 70; Prinsenstraat 7
Forgot to pack your love potion? Or fresh
out of prayer candles? The interiors vivid
colours alone are worth a visit to this quirky
shop, as are the Mexican shrines, religious
icons and Day of the Dead paraphernalia.
EPISODE Map p92 Vintage Clothing
%626 46 19; www.episode.eu; Berenstraat 1
Visiting rock stars head to Episode to trawl
through two floors of fabulous vintage and
secondhand gear. Most impressive when
we last dropped in were the seemingly
endless racks of 1970s suede coats, folky
peasant blouses, colourful ponchos and
big, bright plastic sunshades.
SOUTHERN CANAL BELT
From sleek Dutch fashion and design to
colourful bouquets and rare Dutch jenevers,
the variety of goods on offer in the Southern
Canal Belt is nothing short of staggering.
The Nieuwe Spiegelstraat (aka the Spiegel
Quarter) is celebrated for its antique stores,
bric-a-brac collectibles, tribal and oriental
art, and commercial art galleries.
CITYBOEK Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%627 03 49; www.cityboek.nl; Kerkstraat 211;
hby appt
We normally dont write up shops selling
souvenir posters, but this small publish-
ing house is an exception, with precisely
drawn, multicoloured, architecturally
faithful prints, books and postcards of
Amsterdams canalscapes (eg images of
the entire Herengracht or Singel).
DECORATIVA Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%320 10 93; Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 9a
An amazing jumble of European antiques,
collectables and weird vintage gifts fills this
large space. Look up and youll even see
paintings on the ceilings.
EDUARD KRAMER
Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%623 08 32; Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 64
Specialising in antique Dutch wall and floor
tiles, glass and silver, Eduard Kramer is
bursting with vintage homewares.
EH ARINS KAPPERS
Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%623 53 56; www.masterprints.nl; Nieuwe
Spiegelstraat 32
This pretty gallery stocks original prints,
etchings, engravings, lithographs, maps
from the 15th to 20th centuries, and Japa-
nese woodblock prints.
JASKI Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%620 39 39; www.jaski.nl; Nieuwe
Spiegelstraat 27-29
This large, commercial gallery sells paint-
ings, prints, ceramics and sculptures by
some of the most famous members of the
CoBrA movement (see p36 ).
LIEVE HEMEL Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%623 00 60; www.lievehemel.nl; Nieuwe
Spiegelstraat 3
Youll find magnificent contemporary Dutch
realist painting and sculpture at this smart
gallery. It shows works by Dutch painters Ben
Snijders and Theo Voorzaat, and astounding,
lifelike representations of clothing hewn
from wood by Italian Livio de Marchi.
REFLEX MODERN ART GALLERY
Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%627 28 32; www.reflex-art.nl; Weteringschans
79a; hTue-Sat
This prominent gallery, opposite the Ri-
jksmuseum, is filled with contemporary
art and photography, including works by
members of the CoBrA and the Nouveau
Raliste movements.
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REFLEX NEW ART GALLERY
Map pp100-1 Art & Antiques
%423 54 23; www.reflex-art.nl; Weteringschans
83; hTue-Sat
This new branch specialising in new art is
across the street from the original Reflex.
Theres an emphasis on photography, and
artists include young up-and-comers like
David La Chapelle, Robin Lowe, Roger Bal-
len, Larry Sultan and Nobuyoshi Araki.
GALERIE LAMBIEK Map pp100-1 Books
%626 75 43; www.lambiek.nl; Kerkstraat 78;
hdaily
Serious collectors of comics will lose them-
selves amid tens of thousands of titles
of Dutch and worldwide comic-book art.
Crumb, Avril and Herriman are just the tip
of the 4000-plus author iceberg.
INTERNATIONAL THEATRE & FILM
BOOKS Map pp100-1 Books
%622 64 89; Leidseplein 26; hMon-Sat
In the Stadschouwburg building, this
excellent shop is crammed with books on
its namesake subjects, as well as special-
ity sections on, for example, musicals and
famous directors. The majority of titles are
in English.
SELEXYZ SCHELTEMA Map pp100-1 Books
%523 14 11; Koningsplein 20
The largest bookshop in town is a true
department store, with many foreign titles
and New Age and multimedia sections.
It can be dizzying. Readings and book
launches take place next to the upstairs
caf
CARL DENIG
Map pp100-1 Camping, Outdoor & Sport
%626 24 36; Weteringschans 113-115; hTue-Sat
Opened in 1912, this is Amsterdams old-
est and best outdoor retailer, though you
pay for the quality. There are five floors of
packs, tents, hiking and camping accesso-
ries, snowboards and skis.
TINKERBELL Map pp100-1 Childrens
%625 88 30; Spiegelgracht 10; hMon-Sat
The mechanical bear blowing bubbles
outside this shop fascinates kids, as do
the intriguing technical and scientific toys
inside. Youll also find historical costumes,
plush toys and an entire section for babies.
SPOILED Map pp100-1 Clothing
%626 38 18; Leidsestraat 27
At this one-stop urban-lifestyle store youll
find labels like Mads Norgaard, Rare, Junk
De Luxe, Skunk Funk, True Religion, Stella
Nova, My Ass, Fred Perry, Tommy Hilfiger
and Tiger of Sweden, along with stylish
shoes and accessories, cool magazines and
art. You can also throw back an espresso
and get your hair cut.
YOUNG DESIGNERS UNITED
Map pp100-1 Clothing
%626 9191; www.ydu.nl; Keizersgracht 447
Angelika Groenendijk Wasylewskis
boutique is a showcase for young Dutch
designers. Check out Suzanne de Jager and
Natasja Leenders bold and playful Guten
Appetit label, Heidi Longs striking collec-
tion, Marjoleine Innemees Asian-inspired
Minnemee, Ester Peters fun Kinky Dream
Wear, sexy Amber Rose, and Sarid Khom-
noys extravagant Amm Couture.
BEBOB DESIGN
Map pp100-1 Design & Homewares
%624 57 63; www.bebob.nl; Prinsengracht 764
Lovers of international 20th-century design
classics from Arne Jacobsen Swan chairs
to Isamu Noguchi lampshades should
make this their first stop in Amsterdam.
While the store arranges shipping, a George
Nelson ball clock should fit nicely in the
carry-on.
CORA KEMPERMAN Map pp100-1 Fashion
%625 12 84; Leidsestraat 72
Kemperman was once a designer with
large Dutch fashion houses, but since 1995
shes been working on her own empire
now encompassing nine stores, including
three in Belgium. Her creations feature
floaty, layered separates and dresses in
linen, cotton and wool.
HANA ZUKI Map pp100-1 Fashion
%422 95 63; Vijzelstraat 87
Local designers started this funky boutique-
come-studio as a showcase for their cre-
ations and those of their friends. Check
out Hana Zukis own graphic fashion, hip
Aiko label, and edgy Phatoak by Dutch
Natasja van den Elzen, along with illustra-
tions, magazines, Lomos, and Maomalands
handmade toys.
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LOOK OUT Map pp100-1 Fashion
%625 50 32; www.lookoutmode.com;
Utrechtsestraat 91 & 93
Looking through the racks at these won-
derful neighbouring mens and womens
stores is a real delight. Look out for super
stylish labels such as Paul Smith, Philoso-
phy, Etro, Kenzo, Bruuns Bazaar and Anne-
mie Verbeke.
DESHIMA Map pp100-1 Food & Drink
%625 75 13; Weteringschans 65; hMon-Sat
Downstairs, Deshima is a health-food store
with all sorts of macrobiotic products, but
upstairs theres a lovely selection of pre-
pared foods (plates from 8.50 to 10.50)
and a few seats for eating in. Try the salads
and cooked veggies, cakes and tarts.
EICHHOLTZ Map pp100-1 Food & Drink
%622 03 05; Leidsestraat 48
This small deli is bursting with everything
homesick Brits and Americans yearn for, such
as Oreo cookies, Betty Crocker cake mix,
Heinz baked beans, peanut butter (Skippy, Jif
or Peter Pan!), HP sauce and Birds custard.
HARTS WIJNHANDEL
Map pp100-1 Food & Drink
%623 83 50; Vijzelgracht 27; hTue-Sat
Listen to classical music as you peruse the
large selection of jenevers and French and
Italian wines at this peaceful shop. Its been
around since 1880, and supplies many a
local restaurant with top tipple.
CONCERTO Map pp100-1 Music
%623 52 28; Utrechtsestraat 52-60
Most excellent. This rambling shop, spread
over several buildings, has Amsterdams
best selection of new and secondhand
CDs and records; you could spend hours
on end browsing in here. Its often cheap,
always interesting and has good listening
facilities.

GET RECORDS Map pp100-1 Music
%622 34 41; Utrechtsestraat 105
This deceptively large store has an eclectic
and wide range of rock, folk, country and
blues CDs. Its a decent break from the club
music scene.
SHOEBALOO Map pp100-1 Shoes
%626 79 93; www.shoebaloo.nl; Leidsestraat 10
We like the chic shoes here: imports like
Fendi, Helmut Lang, Miu Miu and Prada
Sport, and the less expensive, but just as
wearable, house label. The branch at PC Hooft-
straat 80 (Map p116 ; %671 33 10) has one of our
favourite interiors in town: imagine a giant
spaceship-green tanning bed lined with
shoe shelves and eggs for you to sit on.
CONSCIOUS DREAMS
Map pp100-1 Smart Drugs
%626 69 07; www.consciousdreams.nl; Kerkstraat
119
You can enhance whatever needs enhancing
at Amsterdams original smart shop, founded
in 1993. The enthusiastic staff can explain
everything about trippy herbs, extracts and
cacti. Theres a small but excellent book sec-
tion, club-night flyers and internet facilities.
BLOEMENMARKT Map pp100-1 Souvenirs
Singel; hclosed Sun winter
Its hard to resist the quivering tulips at
Amsterdams signature flower market, near
Muntplein. Once youve chosen your 10lb
bag of Burning Heart or Queen of Night
bulbs, ask the traders if you can take it
back home. Ireland and the UK allow an
unlimited number of bulbs to be brought
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back in, as do Canada and the USA (ac-
companied by a certificate, which will be
provided). Japan permits up to 100 certi-
fied bulbs, while Australia and New Zealand
have banned the importation of bulbs
altogether.

AURORA KONTAKT
Map pp100-1 Speciality Shop
%623 40 62; Vijzelstraat 27-35
If your favourite electronic or computer
gizmo has stopped working, this no-
nonsense store can sell you a replacement
at competitive prices.
MARAON HANGMATTEN
Map pp100-1 Speciality Shop
%622 59 38; www.maranon.com; Singel 488
Anyone who loves hanging around should
come here and explore Europes largest
selection of hammocks. The colourful
creations, made of everything from cotton
to pineapple fibres, are for everyone from
adults to babies, and are made by many
producers from indigenous weavers to
large manufacturers.
VLIEGER Map pp100-1 Speciality Shop
%623 58 34; Amstel 34
Since 1869 this two-storey shop has been
supplying paper to Amsterdam, and not
just any paper: Egyptian papyrus; lush
handmade papers from Japan, India, Nepal
and Guatemala; papers inlaid with flower
petals or bamboo; and paper textured to
look like snake skin.
HEINEN DELFTWARE
Map pp100-1 Traditional Souvenirs
%627 82 99; www.heinen-delftware.nl;
Prinsengracht 440
With four floors of Delftware, all the major
factories are represented and all budgets
catered for (spend about 4 for a spoon,
2600-plus for a replica 17th-century tulip
vase).
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WHERE TO GET YOUR GROOVE ON
If club music is your thing, you can swing, sway and swap notes with knowledgeable locals at these shops. The chill cat
next to you at the listening booth may be spinning for you that night. Here are just a few of the joints we tested (also
supreme for the latest club and dance-fest info):
Back Beat Records (Map p86 ; %627 16 57; Egelantierstraat 19)
Boudisque (Map pp62-5 ; %623 26 93; Haringpakkerssteeg 10-18)
Killa Cutz (Map pp62-5 ; %428 40 40; Nieuwe Nieuwstraat 19d)
Rush Hour Records (Map pp62-5 ; %427 45 05; Spuistraat 98)
Wax Well Records (Map p92 ; %528 68 80; Gasthuismolensteeg 6a)
MARKET WATCH
No visit to Amsterdam is complete if you havent experienced one or more of its lively markets. The following are merely
a selection. Watch out for pickpockets.
Albert Cuypmarkt ( p118 ) Exotic goods as well as cheap basics from nations around the globe.
Antiques markets Nieuwmarkt (Map pp62-5 ; h9am-5pm Sun May-Sep); Amstelveld (Map pp100-1 ;
h9am-6pm last Fri of the month in warmer months) There are many genuine articles here and lots of books
and bric-a-brac.
Art markets (h10.30am-6pm Sun Mar-Oct) Thorbeckeplein (Map pp100-1 ); Spui (Map pp62-5 ) These quiet
markets, dealing in mostly modern pictorial art, are a bit too modest in scope to yield real finds.
Bloemenmarkt ( opposite ) Amsterdams signature flower market.
Boerenmarkt (Farmers Market; h10am-3pm Sat) Noordermarkt (Map p86 ); Nieuwmarkt (Map pp62-5 ) Pick up
home-grown produce, organic foods and picnic provisions.
Book market (Map pp62-5 ; Oudemanhuispoort; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri) In the old arcade between Oudezijds
Achterburgwal and Kloveniersburgwal (blink and youll miss either entrance), this is the place to find that
19th-century copy of Das Kapital or a semantic analysis of Icelandic sagas, and some newer books and art prints.
Another book market takes place on the Spui (Map pp62-5 ; h8am-6pm Fri).
De Looier antiques market (Map p86 ; %624 90 38; Elandsgracht 109; h11am-5pm Sat-Thu) Indoor stalls
selling jewellery, furniture, art and collectibles.
Lindengracht market (Map p86 ; Lindengracht; h11am-4pm Sat) General market, very much a local affair.
Noordermarkt (Map p86 ; Noorderstraat; h9am-1pm Tue, 9am-6pm Sat) This Jordaan market has a split per-
sonality: Tuesdays are for antiques, fabrics and secondhand bric-a-brac, while Saturdays see a delightful farmers
market with organic produce.
Plant market (Map pp100-1 ; Amstelveld; h3-6pm Mon Easter-Christmas) All sorts of living green things, pots
and vases are sold here.
Stamp & coin market (Map pp62-5 ; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 280; h10am-4pm Wed & Sat) This little street-
side market, just south of Wijdesteeg, sells stamps, coins and medals.
Waterlooplein flea market (Map pp62-5 ; Waterlooplein; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Sat) Amster-
dams most famous flea market is full of curios, secondhand clothing, music, electronic stuff slightly on the blink,
hardware and cheap New Age gifts.
Westermarkt (Map p86 ; Westerstraat; h9am-1pm Mon) Cheapish clothes and textiles, some real bargains.
150 151
OLD SOUTH
The real concentration of shops is around the
PC Hooftstraat, which teems with brands that
need no introduction: Hugo Boss, Chanel,
Dolce & Gabbana, JA Henckels, Louis Vuit-
ton, Mont Blanc, Zegna and more. Across
the Vondelpark, Overtoom has furniture and
home-design stores as well as secondhand
shops.
DE WINKEL VAN NIJNTJE
Map p110 Childrens
%671 97 07; Beethovenstraat 71; hMon-Sat
Dutch illustrator Dick Brunas most famous
character, Miffy (Nijntje in Dutch), is
celebrated in toys and kids merchandise.
Items range from pencils and soap bubbles
to note pads, mouse pads, books, plush
toys, clothing and playhouses, to Royal
Delftware plates.
XSMALL Map p110 Childrens
%470 26 00; www.xsmall.nl; Van Baerlestraat
108; hMon-Sat
Outfitting the moppets of the Old South
with toys and extra-cute clothes for kids
aged 0 to 10. They can also create digital
portraits in Andy Warhol style, from your
own digital photo of your little darling
(from 45).
DE WATERWINKEL Map p110 Food & Drink
%675 59 32; Roelof Hartstraat 10
Thirsty? With over 100 types of bottled
water (mineral, sparkling, still and fla-
voured), this calm and pretty store will keep
your juices flowing.
BROEKMANS & VAN POPPEL
Map p110 Music
%679 65 75; www.broekmans.com; Van Baer-
lestraat 92-94; hMon-Sat
Near the Concertgebouw (surprise!), its the
citys top choice for classical and popular
sheet music, as well as music books. Head
to the 1st floor for a comprehensive se-
lection from the Middle Ages through to
classical and contemporary.
LAIRESSE APOTHEEK Map p110 Pharmacy
%662 10 22; De Lairessestraat 40hs; hMon-Sat
Both a pharmacy and installation art, with
graphics of the periodic table filling the
entrance and a rotunda of green backlit
cases inside.
VONDELPARK &
AROUND
The winding paths of the Vondelpark must
inspire a certain wanderlust because the
nearby streets are full of outdoor and travel
gear shops. Youre in capable hands: Hol-
land has produced more than its fair share of
world adventurers. Stroll down Overtoom and
return equipped to tackle something more
strenuous than a canal-boat tour.
PIED TERRE Map p116 Books
%627 44 55; Overtoom 135
The galleried, skylit interior of this classy
travel-book shop feels like a Renaissance
centre of learning. It specialises in pretty
much any book youll need for outdoor
pursuits: hiking and cycling tomes, topo-
graphical maps and travel guides.
BEVER ZWERFSPORT
Map p116 Camping, Outdoor & Sport
%689 46 39; Stadhouderskade 4; hMon-Sat
Everything you need for a local hike or a
Himalayan expedition: camping equip-
ment, mountaineering gear, clothes and
shoes.
WOMENS OUTDOOR WORLD
Map p116 Camping, Outdoor & Sport
%412 28 79; Overtoom 51-53
Owned by Bever, one of the citys leading
sporting-equipment shops, the WOW had to
open a separate shop due to overwhelming
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demand. It also sells nongender-specific
equipment (eg tents).
MEVIUS & ITALIAANDER
Map p116 Speciality Shop
%618 02 56; Overtoom 21-25
This shop doesnt have a lot of street pres-
ence, but its cavernous where it counts (in
the back) and loaded with the unexpected:
old posters and dishes from faraway lands,
new espresso pots and used LPs, furniture
and lamps. Prices start at 0.50.
DE PIJP
Most shoppers in De Pijp seem to be at the
Albert Cuypmarkt ( p118 ), and with good rea-
son. Its block after block of clothing, food
and homewares, reasonably priced. More
than that, its where the city comes together:
from the most recent immigrant to the Queen
(locals are still talking about how she shopped
here for the markets 100th birthday in 2005
and ran out of money).
FIETSFABRIEK Map p119 Bicycles
%672 18 34; www.fietsfabriek.nl; 1e Jacob van
Campenstraat 12; hTue-Sun
Wessel van den Bosch trained as an archi-
tect, and now he makes custom bicycles
from this wild n crazy workshop, one of
several in Amsterdam. Come in and pick up
a bakfiets (cargo bike), a familiefiets (with
covered pram) or even a standard Omafiets
(one-gear city bike). Just browsing is a joy.
STADSBOEKWINKEL Map p119 Books
%251 15 10; Vijzelstraat 32; h10am-5pm
Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun
Run by the city printer, this is the best
source for books about Amsterdams his-
tory, urban development, ecology and
politics. Most titles are in Dutch (but you
can always look at the pictures) youll
also find some in English. Its in the City
Archives building.
YOI Map p119 Fashion
%670 55 40; 1e Jacob van Campenstraat 27;
hTue-Sun
This hip honest guerrilla store sells Dutch
fashion produced with respect for humans,
animals and the environment, made from
organic cotton, hemp, secondhand clothes,
recycled parachutes and prison blankets.
Labels include fair-trade threads by Fuck
the Fashion, Lazy One, and This is a Story
by Meike Beckers.
DE EMAILLEKEIZER Map p119 Home Wares
%664 18 47; 1e Sweelinckstraat 15; hnoon-6pm
Tue-Sat
Email sounds like something you want to
send, but in Dutch it means enamel, so its
something youll want to keep. This colour-
ful store brims with it: metal tableware and
more coated in interesting designs from
China, Ghana, Poland etc.
STENELUX Map p119 Speciality Shop
%662 14 90; 1e Jacob van Campenstraat 2;
hThu-Sat
Buy an old fossil for that old fossil you left
back home. Stenelux has a smart collec-
tion from this world and beyond (including
meteorites).
PLANTAGE, EASTERN
ISLANDS & EASTERN
DOCKLANDS
If youve come to Amsterdam to have a new
interior put in your multimillion-dollar yacht,
the dockyards out here will hit the spot. Other
shoppers come for the renowned deli or maker
of custom-made boxes. The pierside cafs
make a great place to unwrap your booty.
FRANKS SMOKEHOUSE
Map p122 Food & Drink
%670 07 74; www.smokehouse.nl; Wittenburger
Gracht 303
Frank is a prime supplier to Amsterdams
restaurants. He learned how to smoke fish
from the Swedes, and his excellent Alaska
salmon, halibut and yellowfin tuna can be
vacuum packed for easy passage through
airport customs (which works, unlike with
meat).
DE ODE Map p122 Speciality Shop
%419 08 82; Levantkade 51, KNSM Is; hby appt
only
Here you can find a final resting place with
a difference: a bookcase that converts in to
a coffin when you join the library in the sky,
or a coffin on wheels with bicycle towbar
perfect for pedalling friends to their last
bike rack.
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CHAINS WILL KEEP US TOGETHER
Some shops have several locations around town. For
chocolates and ice cream, look out for Australian
Homemade Leidestraat 101 (Map pp100-1 ); Sin-
gel 437 (Map pp62-5 ). Albert Heijn is a ubiquitous
chain of general supermarkets, while Blokker sells
simple homewares. Personal-care products can be
found at any Etos store Nieuwendijk 69 (Map pp62-
5 ); Nieuwendijk 182 (Map pp62-5 ); Leidsestraat 82
(Map pp100-1 ); Overtoom 77 (Map p116 ). Gall &
Gall (Map pp623 ; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226a)
should fill all your wine and liquor needs; outlets
are also found within most branches of Albert Heijn
supermarkets.
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OUTER DISTRICTS
SO DUTCH FASHION Map pp58-9 Clothing
%617 09 57; www.dutchfashionfoundation.com; 2
World Fashion Centre, Wilhelminaplein 13, Tower 1,
fl 13; hMon-Fri
The Dutch Fashion Foundation promotes
the best of Dutch fashion and helps
designers develop their labels into com-
mercial brands. Its showroom at the World
Fashion Centre provides haute couture
ateliers and carries collections by the hot-
test Dutch designers, such as Mada van
Gaans, Jan Taminiau, Bas Kosters and Percy
Irausquin.
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DIAMONDS
Amsterdam has been a diamond centre since Sephardic Jews introduced the cutting industry in the 1580s. The Cullinan,
the largest diamond ever found (3106 carats), was split into more than 100 stones here in 1908, after which the master
cutter spent three months recovering from stress. A large oval diamond cut here, known as the Koh-i-Noor (Mountain
of Light), was acquired by Queen Victoria and now forms part of the British crown jewels.
The four diamond factories listed below offer guided tours, but the Gassan tour is probably the most enlightening.
Tours are free and usually run 9am to 5pm daily.
Diamonds arent necessarily cheaper in Amsterdam than elsewhere, but between the tours and extensive descrip-
tions and factory offers, youll know what youre buying.
Amstel Diamonds (Map pp100-1 ; %623 14 79; Amstel 206-208)
Amsterdam Diamond Center (Map pp62-5 ; %624 57 87; Rokin 1)
Coster Diamonds (Map p110 ; %305 55 55; Paulus Potterstraat 2-6)
Gassan Diamonds ( p79 ; %622 53 33; Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175)
155 154