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ZOOT ALORS
Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion design, pants,patterndrafting, sewing | [13] Comments
Explore volume and proportion by challenging conventional principles of tailoring for your Autumn wardrobe. Here is a great example by Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT, a zoot trouser balancing a fitted cropped top. The pattern draft is a bit more advanced for those daring to try pleated trousers yet it is an easy project to construct.
Bottom-weight fashion fabric, 54 [137cm] wide ** yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45 [114cm] wide. yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing fabric, 45 [114 cm] wide 1 zipper, 7 [18 cm] long. 1 set of pant hook & bar Kraft paper
** A minimum of 3 yards of fabric is required for pleated trousers for an average sized person. If youre taller than 6 youll need 3 1/2 yards of fabric.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist measure around narrowest part of torso just above the navel.
Hip measure around fullest part of seat, about 9 [23cm] below waistline.
Body Rise measure vertically from waistline to top of chair seat, while seated.
PATTERN
Front (Red)
Draw a long straight line down center of the paper and plot point 0 at the top end.
7-10 = [10mm].
Join 10-6 with a straight line and 6-9 with a smooth curve, missing 5 by approx. 1 [35mm].
3-12 = of trouser bottom width [6mm]; join 8-12 with a straight line. Mark point 13 on kneeline.
Draw inside leg seam; join 14-15 with a straight line; join 9-15 with a slight curve inwards [10mm] as shown.
Back (Blue)
18-20 = [20mm].
20-21 = [20mm].
21-22 = of waist + 2 [60mm]; join 21-22 to touch the horizontal line from 0.
23-24 = [3mm].
Join 21-19 with a straight line; join 19-24 with a deep curve missing 16 by approx. 1 [45mm].
12-26 = [10mm].
13-27 = [10mm].
Draw in side seam; 22-25 curves outward slightly; 25-27 curve inwards slightly and join 27-26 with a straight line.
14-28 = [10mm].
15-29 = [10mm].
Draw inside leg seam; join 28-29 with a straight line; join 29-24 with a curve inwards by [10mm].
Design Note: PUT EXTRA EASE IN THE SEAT ANGLE (CB seam)
Most easy fitting trousers require extra ease in the back crotch line, especially pleated pants. Trace off back section of trouser template and add more ease. Begin by, cutting along the hipline and spread open a wedge as desired, approximately 1 [40mm] wide at the back CB line. (The more rounded the behind, the greater the seat angle.) Re-draw the back seam curve as shown.
Style Adaptation
Pleated zoot trousers are full at the waistline and shaped in at the hem.
Back Section *
Mark points (a) and (b) on hemline [20 mm] inward from leg seam.
Shape the bottom hemline with a slight curve outward [10mm]. ***
Divide line 21-22 into 3 equal parts. At each point, draw in a waist suppression dart.
(2 in total).
Front Section *
Cut across kneeline; then cut top section dividing along the crease ( grainline). Spread open at waistline for desired amount of pleating and extend waistline at side seam to blend smoothly with outseam of leg. (For instance, open 2 [50mm] at waist and extend 1 [35mm] at side seam. With dart allowance this gives 4 [10.5 cm] fullness).
Design Note: More fullness can be added at the waistline by opening the grainline further at the waist and making deeper pleats.
Mark points (c) and (d) on hemline [20 mm] inward from leg seam.
For fly & fly facing *, trace off CF seam and waistline from 10.
Draw a parallel line 2 [50mm] from CF line and taper 1 [25cm] below zipper notch.
For waistband *, draw a long rectangle equal to the waist measurement X desired width.
Fold paper on line C-D and trace off C-A-E-G-H-I-Das mirrored image. Open flat for bag pattern piece.
CUTTING
ASSEMBLY 1. Fold pocket bag piece in half crossways and stitch aFrench
2. Iron fusible interfacing to back (wrong side) of waistband, following manufacturers directions. Set aside.
3. Fold pleats along waistline of front trousers and baste down. Set aside.
6. With right sides together (RST), align and match side seam of front and back trouser legs. Leaving a 6 o pening from top edge of cut pieces for pockets, sew up the side seam and press open.
Attach a pocket bag to each seam allowance at the opening and stitch in place. Set aside.
7.
With RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Grade seam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam
and topstitch. With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly facing (fig.1). Set aside.
8. With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Grade seam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitch fly.
9. With RST, align and match front pieces along CF line and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2 of the inseam.
10. With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. This will encase the zipper into the CF seam. Flip the zipper FACE UP and edge-stitch along the zipper teeth (fig. 2).
11. Lay the front of the trousers FACE UP. Align the CF line and smooth out the fly opening. Baste the fly opening shut. Once completed, fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. Stitch the zipper tape to the fly. (fig. 3) Baste curved edge of fly to left front.
12. With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening and topstitch the Jstitch following the basting thread markings up to the top.
13. With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and press seam open.
14.
Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg
seam and CB crotch seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section ( in a U-shape). Turn garment RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.
15. Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half, with RST and stitch up short ends, allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners and grade. Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.
16. Pin raw edge of waistband FACE UP to inside edge of trousers waistline, allowing for 2 [50mm] extension on left -hand side of waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband.Baste across top of pocket bag and pleats. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top of front pocket and pleats in the seaming. Grade seam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitch the waistband to the garment.
17. On each cuff bottom, turn up 1 [30mm] hem. Turn under [6mm] and hand-stitch hem in place.
18. Hand-stitch set of hooks and bars onto the waistband, just above the zipper.
Design Tip: Design the waistband width [12 mm] greater than the width of your favourite belt and add belt loops.
October 7, 2008
CLASSIC JEANS
Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion, pants,patterndrafting | [33] Comments
Classic five pocket cool, with an always-instyle timeless wash denim and the most comfortable fit ever. Its no wonder you reach for your made-to-measure jeans again and again.
MEASUREMENTS
Seat measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8[20 cm] below the waist.
Bottom width desired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).
PATTERN
7-10 = 5/8[1.5cm].
Join 10-6 and 6-9 with a curve touching a point 1 - 1 [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.
18-20 = [2cm].
20-21 = [2cm].
21-22 = of waist + 1[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.
23-24 = 1/8[0.5cm].
Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a point 1 - 1 [4-4.5cm] from 16.
12-26 = 3/8[1cm]
13-27 = 3/8[1cm]
Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.
14-28 = 3/8[1cm]
15-29 = 3/8[1cm]
21-30 = of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2[1.25cm] wide.
Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8[3.5cm] from 31-32.
Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24 and 25.
Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 [4cm] wide at 17.
Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).
Waistband
The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 [3 cm] larger than waist measurement to fit lower waist position).
39-41 = of distance 38-39; square up, label CB and CF. Mark foldline down center.
August 9, 2008
These long and loose bottoms score high on the comfort index. The fabrics are fluid and the prints are fun, which means they are less for curling up on the sofa than for spending a weekend afternoon in style. Think silk, linen, rayon, or cottonsomething lightweight and drapy. Balance them with a body-fitting top or stay faithful to the bedtime look with a big and beautiful sweater.
The cut and fabrication of these loungers is novice level and fits many shapes and sizes. Its an easy no-pattern afternoon project.
You need:
1 yds. of fashion fabric, 44-45 wide Coordinating thread 1 pkg. of 1 wide waistband elastic or 60 drawcord Tailors chalk Tape measure
PATTERN
No real pattern is required but if you wish to make several pants you can make a paper template.
Recommended to control the fullness at the gathered waist is elastic or a drawsting. The waist can accommodate 30 to 52 app roximately.
For the cut, measure your finished pant length. (waist to heel). Add 1 for cuff hem allowance and 1 for waist casing to this measurement. Record it.
Straighten the cut edges of your fashion fabric and square across the width. Measure along the selvedge the pant length measurement and square a line across the width with tailors chalk Divide the section equally in half parallel to the selvedge with a chalk line. These are the left and right leg sections.
On each leg section, measure in approx. 2-4 from the lines. This may vary based on how fitted a bottom cuff you want (must be able to get your foot through however). Then, measure along the length and find the midpoint. Chalk a notch. ( X and O on diagram). Join Xs and Os to bottom points at hem with a straight edge using chalk.
Take this midpoint measurement and plot it along the waistline. Add 13 for the rise. Square up on remaining fabric parallel to selvedge and mark with chalk. This is the gusset section.
Divide the gusset section in half by squaring across the fabric width.
Measure across top and bottom the distance equal to half the leg distance from waistline to X. Plot it and mark with chalk. Repeat but measure the dividing line from the opposite end. Join the notches with a straight edge. (see diagram).
Cut on the chalk lines. You will have a left leg side, a right leg side, and 2 pairs of gussets.
ASSEMBLY
Finish raw edges with desired seam finish. (I used pinking shears). With right sides together, pin and baste a gusset to each center portion of the legs. (Match Xs and Os). Stitch seam and press open. With right sides together, fold each leg section in half lengthwise and pin and pasteinseam from crotch to hem. Stitch inseam and press seam open.
Turn one leg section right side out and place it down the other leg section. Match up CFand CB at waist and align inseams. Pin and baste gussets together and stitch crotch seam. Press open. Turn pants right side out.
Turn under 1/2 at waistline and press. Turn under 1 all round and machine stitch down to create a casing. Open a slit in the front crotch seam at the waist to insert an elastic or drawcord. (make elastic equal to your waist measurement less 2 if using).
This pattern design method can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height combined with girth measurements for the chest, waist and hips. Knowing the persons height allows for formulations of various lengths based on
theGolden body.
Mean and combined with established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern can be drafted for an average human
H = full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretched arms, measured from finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body.
1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel
1/6 H = length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)
Drafting By Height: Trousers (based on 8 heads per figure) The theory based upon the Golden
Mean can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height of an average or
off-proportioned body. You need the following measurements to draft a trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The scale is one head equals 1/8 of the total height.
Example:
5 8 = 68 68/8 = 8.5
Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)
Example:
Given a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18 and a waistband 1-1/2 wide, then:
Trouser draft:
1-5 = 1/12 hip mmt. + 5/8 [18 mm]; square up to locate points 6 and 7.
7-10 = 3/8 [10mm] squared across and 3/8 [10 mm] squared down
Join 10-6 with straight line and join 6-9 with a curve line as shown.
10-11 = waist mmt. + 3/8 [10mm] (note: point 11 will sit on line 7.)
19-20 = waist mmt. + 3/8 [10 mm], taken at a 90 degree angle from tangent line so that line 19-20 touches the line 7-11. (Note: point 19 will be located on the right angle and the constructed line may not touch at point 11 as shown.)
23 is located on kneeline.
4-25 = 4-23
Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25-9 with a curved line as shown.
Join 26-27 with a straight line and 27-21 with a parallel curved line as shown.
Join 22-23-28-8 and gently curve into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.
This is an easy fit type trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If you desire extra ease (seat angle) in crutch of trousers back portion, cut along back hipline and open a wedge about 1-1/2 [40 mm] wide at CB to nil at side seam. Redraw centerback seam.