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History of Women's Costume: The Crinoline Period (1850-1869)


HIST ORY OF WOMEN'S FASHION & DRESS: T HE CRINOLINE PERIOD C.1850-1869 Jahanara Akter Lecturer, KCC Womens College, Khulna, Bangladesh

Historical Background: T he cage crinoline, the major f ashion innovation f or women in the1850s. During Romantic period, women used to wear Layers of petticoat, sometimes they are use up to six Layers of petticoat. T he increasing width of womens skirts had led to the use of more and more stif f ened petticoat. When the hoop skirts of the 18th century were revived to hold out these voluminous skirts, the editor of petersons Magazine hailed its revival in September, 1859.T his skirts look like a f arthingale. But at this time women started wearing f arthingale again. T he f arthingale had changed, its name was called crinoline. T his was made out of still. A crinoline is a light still f rame work covered with f abric to distend a skirt.
Fig : The c ag e Crino line

Womens Costume: Some womans costumes are described in below: 1. Undergarments: Name of costume a. Chemise Fabric Cotton or linen Pictures of dress Description A short sleeve, knee length garments, short and f ull; without much decoration.

b. Drawers

Cotton, linen or f lannel

Knee length drawers were trimmed at edges with tucking, lace or embroidery. In winter some women wore colored, f lannel drawers f or warmth.

c. Camisole

Cotton or linen

T his waist length a garment was shaped to f igure had short sleeve and buttoned down the f ront.

d. Corset

Women were shaped with gores of f abric and inset gussets of elastic. Af ter the introduction of the crinoline, corset shorted, when the crinoline declined, corsets become tighter.

e. Hoop (cage crinoline)

cotton

Steel hoops were sewn onto tapes or f abric skirt. Shapes varied with changes in the f ashionable silhouette: 1850s round, 1860s f latter in f ront and f uller at the back.

f. Petticoats

cotton, f lannel

A single petticoat decorated with lace, embroidery, or small tucks was placed over the hoop. Additional layers, f lannel petticoat worn in winter.

2. Day T ime Dresses: Some womans day time costumes are described in below: a. Bodice: Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton f abric are used. Description: Bodice shaping was of ten achieved through curved seams in back, darts in f ront. Armholes were placed low on the arm. It is attached by button or hocks. b. Neckline: Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton f abric are used. Description: Neck lines were high, without attached collars and usually f inished in bias piping. Removable, washable collars (and cuf f ) were usually worn with daytime dresses. c. Sleeves: Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton f abric are used. Description: Most common sleeve styles they were use such as: bell-shaped, pagoda shaped, doubleruf f les, close sleeve, mens coat sleeve etc. d. Blouses : Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton f abric are used. Description: Separate blouses were worn with skirts. T he Red Garibaldi Blouse was especially popular in the 1860s. e. Skirts: Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton f abric are used.
Fig : Wo me ns Bo d ic e

Description: In1860s skirts were pyramid shaped. 3. Evening Dress: a. Neckline: Fabric: Dif f erent types of f abric are used. Description: Dif f erent in dresses worn f or evening. In the evening time they also wore daytime dresses. Most evening dresses had of f the shoulder neckline, either straight across or with a dip at the center. b. Sleeve: Fabric: Dif f erent types of f abric are used.
Ne c kline

short sleeve, straight sleeve and sleeveless dress. c. Skirts: Fabric: Dif f erent types of f abric are used. Description: Double skirts might have decorative ef f ect created by looping or puf f ing up the outer layer. Skirts were trimmed with artif icial f lowers, ribbons, rosettes or lace. 4. Outdoor Garments: Sleeve: Sleeved, f itted and unf itted coats of varying lengths.Mantle: A cloak-like garment worn mainly by women as f ashionable outerwear. T hree-quarter length coat f itted to waist in f ront, f ull at the back, with long loose sleeves. Shawl-mantle: Loose cloak, reaching almost to the skirt hem. Talma-mantle: Full cloak with tasseled hood or f lat collar. 5. Hair and Head Dress: Hair: Women generally parted their hair in the center and drew it over the ears smoothly or in waves or plaits back of the head. Head coverings: Small muslin day caps with long lappets or ribbons which were still worn by some older and married ladies. Hair nets, of colored silk snoods and bonnets, small hats, f lat crowns continued to be worn. 6. Foot Wears: a. Stockings: A stocking (also known as hose, especially in a historical context) is a close-f itting, variously elastic garment covering the

Sle e ve s

Blo us e s

variously elastic garment covering the f oot and lower part of the leg. Stockings vary in color, design and transparency. T hese were made of cotton or silk, with white the pref erred color, but colored and plaid stocking were also worn. T hese were made of cotton or silk, with white the pref erred color, but colored and plaid stocking were also worn. b. Shoes: For daytime square toes, low heels, rosette trimming over the toes in some styles. Evening shoes were of ten colored to match the gown. c. Boots: Boots were cut to above the ankle and closed with lacing, buttons or with elastic sides. 7. Accessories: a. Gloves: Generally gloves were short and f itted f or daytime. In the 1860s gloves were long and elbow length, were worn with evening dress. b. Cuffs: A cuf f is an extra layer of f abric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms. T hey were wide cuf f s. c. Hand carried accessories: Among the popular hand carried accessories were handkerchief s, f olding f ans, small muf f s, Mirror, parasol, Misers purse, decorative purse, etc. d. Jewelry: Bracelets, earrings, brooches (saf etipin) and necklaces, stones, colored glass etc. e. Cosmetics: Use of homemade Cosmetics. 0 0 1 0 0 4

Fig : Do am and Pyramid s hap e d Skirt in 1860s

Fig : O ff The Sho uld e r Eve ning d re s s fo r wo me n

Fig : Sle e ve le s s d re s s fo r wo me n

Fig : Skirts we re trimme d with artific ial flo we r

Sle e ve

Mantle

Pic : Shawl mantle fro m 1869

Talma-mantle

Pic : Wo me n' s hair s tyle in 1851,1860

Pic : Day c ap o r Ind o o r c ap , 1866 and Bo nne t, 1850.

Pic : Wo me n' s hat in 1867, b o nne t in 1864, Sno o d in 1864.

Sto c king s

Sho e s

Bo o ts

G lo ve s

Cuffs

Hand c arrie d ac c e s s o rie s

J e we lry

Co s me tic s