POWER&GLORY ver.2.

0
Dunlop tyres from early 60s up to the 70s GoodYear famous Blue Streak tyres of the 60s Firestone Tyres from mid 60s up to the 70s

Tyres Manual

Introduction
Power&Glory in this version 2.0 features 104 different cars from 1960 to 1974. We have spent an enormous amount of time to painfully discover, determine and configure each car physics, graphics and sounds, as accurately as possible. Never before in the history of mods, have there been cars recreated with so many variants and all the features that you can see on the body of each car is faithfully recreated in the physics. The attention to detail is simply, staggering. As a result of this, the number of tyres and compounds of each tyre, outnumbers by a big margin, the tyres and compounds of GTR1, GTL, GTR2, RACE and GTR EVO all together resulting in 64 different tyre files, each of them with at least 2 compounds, usually 4... all this in a single mod. Although we are sure our fans will be delighted with such attention to detail, we are also aware that such amount of different cars, variations and detail, make this mod a unique experience which can be delightful to the ones that are prepared and ready to explore it for a long time, but also frustrating for the ones that will just try to find the perfect car (that probably does not exist). Still, we cant really sit back, relax and expect that simracers will spent months to simply understand the performances of each car/tyre combination. It wouldnt even be realistic, and we strive for realism every single day of the last 12 months that we are working on this project. GTL Workshop is going to produce a long list of manuals and we start with a comprehensive tyres manual, that describes in a simple table the main characteristics of each tyre. GTL Workshop 2008

TYRES MANUAL | III

Table of Contents
1 Generating grip iv Tyre slip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iv Pressure & Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v Wear & Rain tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vi 2 3 Workflow Dunlop Tyre Table vii viii

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix 4 Firestone Tyre Table x

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi 5 GoodYear Tyre Table xii

General information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xiii

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Generating grip

Cross-ply tyres of the Sixties era were much less sophisticated than their modern counterparts. Still they had to handle similar power to weight ratio cars with much less sophisticated suspension and chassis, and on much more demanding tracks. Obviously, the lack of grip made the cars slide, so focus was greater on tyre consistency and predictability than absolute grip, and of course that translated to great spectacle for the viewers and some greatly balanced and fun to drive race cars. Those were the days when drivers would ask for more power rather than more grip... Still, if you really want to go fast, you really need to understand a couple of things about tyres. First of all, you should need to understand how tyres are generating grip, how they generate heat and what tyre pressure is doing on the tyres behaviour. Lets start with the basics by giving a very simplistic and highly inaccurate - example that can help you understand how a tyre generates grip with load. Imagine slipping your finger on your desk. As you slip your finger, friction is generated and you can feel some resistance. If you push harder your finger on the desk, while still slipping it across the surface, you will notice how the friction generated is higher and the resistance is also higher. Well, this is more or less what is happening on your tyres. The weight of the car and the inertial forces are pushing the tyres on the tarmac and so grip is generated. Still, there is no such thing as a perfect world, so turning back to our example you will notice that while you keep pushing

your finger harder and harder on the desk and generate more and more friction, you always arrive at a point that the friction is never enough to prevent your tyre from slipping. This is a very important conclusion as it is obvious now that the generated grip is never enough to sustain any force applicable and sooner or later, slipping occurs. Keep always in mind that this is a very simplistic and inaccurate description of what actually happens, and reality is far more complex. However it is an acceptable practical example on what is happening on your tyres. So when moving weight on your tyres - the famous weight shifting - while turning, braking and accelerating, you are loading your tyres and make them grip more, you must always be conscious that too much load will eventually make your tyre slip, regardless of your intentions. Your goal is to find that magic amount of load that will permit your tyres to grip, without much slipping.

Tyre slip

Slipping means wasting energy in friction, transforming power to heat and finally losing time. That is why modern tyres generate their maximum grip at extremely low slip angles, like only six degrees for touring cars and just three degrees for Formula One modern single-seaters. This means that the driver, aided by the great amounts of grip, is forced to follow a single very precise line while at the same time keeping slip at a minimum. Fortunately for us, this was hardly the case with Sixties era tyres. Tyres were exceptionally predictable and with their high and flexible sidewalls and specific cross-ply construction, required and provided high slip angles in order to attain their maximum grip. This means that drivers were forced and encouraged to drift the cars around curves, in order to achieve the best grip and speed in the bends. Of course, high

TYRES MANUAL |

angle drifts were possible and quite spectacular to say the least, but then again only less skilful drivers would engage to such kind of driving, and usually because they overshoot the entry point, or just applied too much throttle on the exit. Although spectacular , this kind of driving, even with these cars is highly inefficient, tyre consuming and risky. To be fast you need to find that subtle limit of four wheel drift that will make you fast around the track.

handling problems over bumps and kerbs. Finally, as time progressed, tyres became wider and with lower sidewalls. Already towards the end of the 60s, the heavier and more powerful cars would get equipped with fat tyres, thus requiring lower pressures, in the range of 220kPa to 300kPa. Check our tyre tables for more info.

Pressure

Temperature

One of the most significant differences between modern slick tyres and treaded cross ply tyres of the Sixties, is the tyre pressure. Those tyres needed much higher pressure than anything youre used to. The soft sidewalls were easy to bend and create a sloppy and slippery feeling while driving, and the rolling resistance was quite high, thus lowering top speed and acceleration. High pressures kept the sidewalls from bending making the handling more precise and would give higher top speed and acceleration. Furthermore the higher pressure would better dissipate the heat generated by the tyres. Start from the default setup tyre pressure and work in the range of 30psi (275kPa) for very light cars and up to 55psi (380kPa) for heavier cars, always cold pressures. After a couple of laps the IMO (Inside, Mid, Outside) temperatures on the garage screen should help you understand if you need to inflate or deflate the tyres. If the mid temperature is higher than the other two, then deflate and vice versa. Nevertheless keep in mind that most of those tyres are very thin, so its normal that the mid temperature will get higher as the temperature rises. Another important variable to keep in mind is that a higher pressure makes for a stiffer ride, meaning more precision and agility, but also harsh ride and

Due to their chemical properties and construction, tyres best operate at a very specific temperature. Modern tyres once again, have been highly optimized and work in a very limited range of temperatures while at the same time offer various compounds for different ambient and track temperatures. Once again, this is not the case with the Sixties era tyres. Their optimum temperature is around 85C (185F) but by not having multiple compounds on offer - similarly to road legal tyres - their operating range is much wider, ranging from as low as 50C (122F) degrees, before noticing any considerable loss of grip, and up to 110C (230C) degrees, again before any noticeable degradation of grip levels. Keep in mind though that although still sticky enough, operating the tyres above or below the optimum temperature will result in more wear. Higher tyre pressure can help lower tyre overheating, and lower tyre pressure can raise the tyre temperatures if they are too low ... do not expect miracles though. Power&Glory version 2.0 is simulating tyre heat even better than before. Depending on the car suspension geometry, static camber and of course driving style, the tyres will start cold and gradually heat up mainly their outside part. As temperature rises, the pressure also rises and the tyre sidewall becomes more stiff. After 2 or 3 laps the pressure should be optimal and

vi | Power&Glory v.2.0 by GTL Workshop

the temperatures should start to be more balanced between inner, middle and outer sides. Of course, depending on the cars suspension geometry, some cars would keep the outer temperature always higher (i.e. live axle), some will have extremely high inner temperature (i.e. alpine rear tyres, or 1969 Mini front tyres both with over -3.0 static camber) and so on. Dont get too paranoid with tyre temps and pressure though. Simply try to achieve an acceptable temperature and pressure and focus on general car balance, rather than absolute precision to the numbers, especially on older cars. A difference of 10 degrees Celsius between IMO will be optimal, but it will also be fine to have 5 degrees or even no difference at all, not optimal but not a tragedy either. With cars of the late 60s you can be more accurate on the tyres temperatures and pressures, as the cars become sophisticated enough to make better use of their tyres.

Rain tyres

The Sixties tyres are all treaded, which means that you can still count on your dry tyres when the track is just slightly wet. Usually, the rain tyre used is the softer dry tyre. Still, later in the decade, proper rain tyres start to appear and they offer better grip under more critical conditions. Optimum rain tyres temperature is similarly set at 85C (185F) and they happily operate at much lower than that value much like a normal street tyre, but they tend to have serious grip problems when overheated, so be careful how you use them when the track starts drying out. Late Sixties tyres also start to have more specialized dry tread designs and can get very tricky under wet conditions. With those cars you better use the dedicated wet tyres when the track gets wet. Power&Glory version 2.0, also corrects a historical inaccuracy of the 1st release. Please take note and use the correct tyres Dunlop tyres between 1965 and 1966 do NOT use red dot tyres as rain tyres, but rather the most soft dry compound (i.e. yellow and white respectively). The red tyres are now endurance tyres, please check our tyre tables. Unfortunately, some limitations of the GTR2 code, forced us to include some compromises. Although in this manual you will find all the information about the rain tyres present in the mod, loading the mod you will also find in the garage the typical three rain tyres, intermediate, wet and monsoon types. All three of those tyres are the same rain tyre as described in this manual. The reason they are present is to make the AI cars properly pit on changing conditions, and continue their race. You can ignore their existence and stick to the manual.

Wear

The tyre wear is gradual and almost linear, lap after lap. You can expect tyres to last about an hour of hard racing or even more, depending on driving style, weight of the car, track layout etc. etc. Still even very worn tyres continue to behave in a predictable manner and wont let go abruptly. Again, optimum tyre pressure, temperature and driving style are paramount for less tyre wear. Back in the day, most cars would even finish entire endurance races without changing tyres, not once.

TYRES MANUAL | VII

Workflow

Understanding which car has what compounds and what compound is better than the other is vital to any driver. To better help you with your quest, we have compiled a simple workflow sequence. 1. Examine your car in the showroom before selecting it and write down the model year. 2. Look at the tyre sidewalls. If you dont see any lettering then 99% is a Dunlop, other tyre brands almost always have their lettering on the sidewalls. 3. After choosing the car with the tyre brand of your liking, enter the garage setup page. Look at the various compounds available. 4. With the year model, tyre brand and compounds noted, look at our table and you will be able to understand which compound is harder, which is softer, which is for dry racing and which is for wet racing and so on 5. Start with the default setup pressures, maybe change the steering lock*1 to better suit your driving style and steering wheel equipment and exit the pits 6. On the out lap, try to drive smoothly without exaggerated drifts. This will bring your tyres in temperature and raise the pressure, making them more precise. 7. Keep driving for another lap or two. Only after at least two laps it is time to look at the tyre

temperatures. Dont make the mistake to press escape and instantly enter the garage screen while the car is still in a turn. It will certainly give you readings that might confuse you (i.e. very hot outside temperature on the outside tyres). This is absolutely realistic behavior for a tyre, but it is a bit different from what most simracers are used in our idealistic tyre temps simulations of other sims/mods. Keep going and slow the car down on a straight, or better yet, enter the pits. 8. Once stopped, look at the tyre temperatures and observe the IMO (Inside/Middle/Outside) readings. Try to modify the pressure of the tyres in order to get a balanced IMO readings (middle should ideally be between the outside and inner values), but dont get paranoid about it. A difference of 10 degrees Celsius between IMO will be optimal, but it will also be fine to have 5 degrees or even no difference at all, not optimal but not a tragedy either. Good car balance is what you should always try to achieve , regardless of tyre temperature readings. its that simple... almost...

*1 GTLWorkshop advice users of 900 degrees wheels (i.e. Logitech DFP and G25, Fanatec wheels ecc), to set their wheels at maximum 900 degrees and use a steering lock ratio in the garage in the range of 28 to 34.

Dunlop
DUNLOP GRIP 1 2 2 The green spot started to be more useful on long races too, especially on light cars under 2.5 liters. 3 HARD SOFT VERY HARD WEAR CONDITIONS R5 R5 R6L R6L 270-370kpa 270-370kpa 270-370kpa 270-370kpa DUNLOP NOTES PRESSURES YEAR

TIRE TYPE/COMPOUND

R5 D9

All Weather/Dry up to 1962 All Weather/Wet up to 1962 All Weather/Dry 1963 1963

R5 D12

R6L D9

R6L D12 green spot

MEDIUM All Weather/Wet

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R6M D9 R6M 3 270-370kpa

The thread design of the R6M type, had a lower profile but the tire proved to be more dangerous in wet conditions with a high risk of acquaplanning. Same problems of acquaplanning even for the softer compound. 4 4 5 6 This extremely soft tyre was introduced only on 1966 and it was so soft that it could be used in race trim, only by the lighter cars. Touring and GT cars, not using very low profile tires. Touring and GT cars, not using very low profile tires. Touring and GT cars, with low profile tires. 7

HARD

All Weather/Dry

1964

R6M D12 green spot R6M R7 R7 R7 R7 270-370kpa 270-370kpa 270-370kpa 270-370kpa 270-370kpa

MEDIUM All Weather/Wet VERY HARD HARD

1964 All Weather/Dry 1965-1966 All Weather/Dry 1965-1966 MEDIUM All Weather/Wet 1965-1966 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1966

R7 Red spot

R7 Green spot

R7 Yellow spot

R7 White spot

CR65 184 CR65 CR65 CR84 220-300kpa 220-300kpa 220-300kpa

6 8 7

MEDIUM SOFT MEDIUM

All Weather/Dry 1967-1971 All Weather/Wet 1967-1971 All Weather/Dry 1967-1971

CR65 970

CR84 184

CR81 236 CR81

300-400kpa

The CR81 is designed to cope with fairly large negative cambers used on the Mini (up to -3 degrees) Not suitable for fully wet conditions OK as an intermediate type. Only for the front tires, green spots at the rear.*

MEDIUM HARD

Intermediate

1969-1971

CR81 232 CR81

300-400kpa

The CR81 is designed to cope with fairly large negative cambers used on the Mini (up to -3 degrees?) Not suitable for fully wet conditions OK as an intermediate type. Only for the front tires, White spots at the rear.* CR65 300-400kpa Special 10 Mini tire for wet conditions.

MEDIUM SOFT

Dry

1969-1971

CR65 184

MEDIUM

Wet

1969-1971

TYRES MANUAL | IX

Dunlop tyres

In 1966 a new even softer white spot compound was made available for the R7, with exceptional grip and handling characteristics but also much easier to overheat. Only the more lighter cars could use this compound in races.

Starting from the very early 60s, Dunlops racing tyre was the R5 available in two compounds, D9 for dry use and D12 for wet use. On lighter cars and shorter races (F1 for example) it was possible to use the D12 compound for most dry races.

In 1967 Dunlop were effectively out of F1 where 15 tyres were used and their 15 tyres were not competitive. But they kept developing their F2 tyres (where 13 tyres were used) and these tyres were competitive. The old color spot designation for compounds was replaced by a number system. Compound 184 and 970 were introduced. 970 was softer than 184 and originally intended as the wet compound but proved usable in the dry on single seaters at least.

In 1963 the R6 L construction tyre was introduced, also available in D9 and D12 compounds, the D12 compound being known as the green spot compound - the tyres had a green spot on their sidewall. Improvements in the R6 construction meant that it was easier to use the green spot compound for dry conditions, and on cars under 2.5 litres it would even be used for long races like the Le Mans 24 hour race. The R6 was sometimes known as the CR48. In 1964 the R6 M construction tyre was introduced which had a lower profile than the L construction. It was also available in D9 and D12/ Green spot compounds. Unfortunately, the tyre was very prone to acquaplanning, even in its D12/Green spot compound. In 1965 the R7 tyre was introduced, with a new tread pattern intended to reduce aqua planing which had become an issue with the lower profile M construction R6. It was available in green spot compound, a new softer yellow spot compound and a new harder red spot compound (replacing D9). The R7 was sometimes referred to as the CR65. The R6 continued to be used in 1965 and was available in the new yellow spot compound.

Dedicated Mini tyres. The great success of the Mini Cooper forced Dunlop to create dedicated tyres for the car particular characteristics (front wheel drive and tiny 10 inch wheels) In May 1967 a new tyre was produced specially for the Mini, the CR81 with a new compound 236. Problems with negative camber overheating the inner shoulder led to the asymmetric CR81 Mk1 in July. From the above, it is clear that the Dunlop tyres while almost dominant in the early to mid 60s with their 13 tyres, they started to show weakness when the two main competitors - Firestone and Goodyear moved to 15 tyres for the heavy and more powerful cars.

Firestone
(GT40 and other sport prototypes tires)
FIRESTONE GRIP 7 6 9 8 7 MEDIUM MEDIUM HARD MEDIUM Dry WEAR CONDITIONS Indy WS104 R106 R125 ZB14 R125 ZB11 R106 ZB11 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Sports GT tires 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Sports GT tires FIRESTONE NOTES PRESSURES YEAR 1966 1966 Dry Intermediate 1969 1969 1969

TIRE TYPE/COMPOUND

Indy WS104

R106

MEDIUM All Weather/Wet

R125 ZB14

R125 ZB11

| Power&Glory v.2.0 by GTL Workshop

R106 ZB11

MEDIUM All Weather/Wet

Firestone
(heavy Turismo and Gran Turismo tires)
FIRESTONE Indy WS104 R106 Indy WS 112 Indy WS108 R106 WS 112 Indy WS 122 Indy WS 118 R106 WS118 Indy WS 134 R106 WS 134 I-3 IB19 I-3 IB18 R106 ZB11 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire Heavy Touring and GT cars Heavy Touring and GT cars 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars FIRESTONE NOTES PRESSURES GRIP 7 6 6 7 6 7 8 7 8 7 8 9 8 WEAR MEDIUM CONDITIONS Dry MEDIUM All Weather/Wet MEDIUM HARD MEDIUM Dry Dry MEDIUM All Weather/Wet HARD MEDIUM HARD MEDIUM Dry Dry MEDIUM All Weather/Wet MEDIUM Dry MEDIUM All Weather/Wet MEDIUM HARD MEDIUM Dry Dry YEAR 1966 1966 1967 1967 1967 1968 1968 1968 1969 1969 1970-1971 1970-1971 MEDIUM All Weather/Wet 1970-1971

TIRE TYPE/COMPOUND

Indy WS104

R106

Indy WS 112

Indy WS108

R106 WS 112

Indy WS 122

Indy WS 118

R106 WS118

Indy WS 134

R106 WS 134

I-3 IB19

I-3 IB18

R106 ZB11

TYRES MANUAL | XI

Firestone Indy WS for dry conditions.

Firestone tyres

Finaly in 1970-71 Firestone introduced 3 new compounds for endurance, dry and wet conditions. Firestone I-3 IB19 as a dry endurance tyre, Firestone I-3 IB18 a softer dry compound and Firestone R106 ZB11 for wet conditions. Firestone also had a dedicated line for the faster prototypes cars that had started appearing in the endurance races, such as the Ford GT40 in different variations. In 1966 Firestone Indy WS104 where used for dry endurance with the Firestone R106 WS104 for wet.

Firestone tyres start their competitive presence in the races with the advert of more powerful cars that used 15 tyres. From 1966 and on, they would be the tyre of choice for several legendary cars , such as the Ford GT40, AC Shelby Cobras, Ford Mustangs, Chevrolet Corvettes and others. Produced on various compounds and under constant development they provided probably the best compromise between the various tyre manufacturers. For touring and GT cars like the Mustangs and Corvettes, Firestone provided the following compound choices In 1966 there where available two choices, namely the Firestone Indy WS104 that was used primary for dry endurance races and the Firestone R106 (WS104) that was softer and used on wet conditions. In 1967 Firestone introduced the following compounds: Firestone Indy WS 112 as a dry endurance tyre, Firestone Indy WS108 again a dry compound although softer and the Firestone R106 WS 112 mainly used under wet conditions

In 1967 Firestone introduced 3 new compounds. Firestone R125 WS 112 for dry endurance, Firestone R125 WS 108 softer dry compound and Firestone R106 WS 112 for wet conditions In 1968 Firestone again evolves its offerings with 3 new compounds. Firestone Indy WS 122 (dry endurance), Firestone Indy WS 118 (dry) and Firestone R106 WS118 (wet) In 1969 Firestone is once again the choice of the famous GT40 MK1 Gulf cars, and new compounds are created for the extremely fat tyres. Firestone R125 ZB14 for dry conditions, Firestone R125 ZB11 as a first intermediate tyre and Firestone R106 ZB11 for wet conditions.

In 1968 Firestone introduced again new compounds. The Firestone Indy WS 122 was a dry endurance tyre, followed by the Firestone Indy WS 118 with a softer dry compound and the Firestone R106 WS118 soft compound for primarily wet conditions.

The Firestone tyres although still treaded, had very specific compounds for dry and wet conditions, with different tread designs. As such, you should expect each tyre to be more specialized and a tyre change will be needed in variable weather and track conditions.

In 1969 there was only one compound introduction and probably the 1968 compounds where still in use.

Goodyear
GOODYEAR GRIP 6 Only fitted on the rear wheels of the 1964 AC Cobras 289c.u. 7 7 9 8 7 7 SOFT MEDIUM MEDIUM SOFT MEDIUM SOFT Special tyres and dimensions for the AC Cobra 427c.u. New concept later model, low profile tires. New concept later model, low profile tires. New concept later model, low profile tires. New concept later model, low profile tires. MEDIUM All Weather All Weather All Weather Dry Dry All Weather All Weather/Wet WEAR CONDITIONS BLUE STREAK BLUE STREAK BLUE STREAK BLUE STREAK BLUE STREAK BLUE STREAK bLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa 180-220Kpa 180-220Kpa 180-220Kpa 200-250kpa 200-250kpa 200-250kpa GOODYEAR NOTES PRESSURES YEAR 1966-1967 1966-1967 1966 1970 1970 1970 1970

TIRE TYPE/COMPOUND

G7R655

G7R430

COBRA R655

D G20

D G8

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A G8

W G16

TYRES MANUAL | XIII

GoodYear tyres

For some reason, it seems there is very little information about GoodYear tyres of that era. What is known is that GoodYear did a quite important marketing operation back in the days, trying to demonstrate that its Blue Streak line tyres where direct derivatives of the racing correspondents. As a matter of fact, GoodYear would offer just a single compound, suitable for both dry and wet solutions up to 1966. The only different compound available was the G7R430 that was fitted mainly on some 289c.u. Cobras and was used as a rain tyre, given its softer compound. GoodYear also introduced specific compounds for the AC Shelby 427 Cobras, based mainly on drag racing tyres, something probably needed to tame the amazing amounts of power the 427c.u. engine could deliver. From 1967 and on, GoodYear was forced to introduce different and more specialized compounds for dry and wet conditions.

By 1970 GoodYear would follow the trend and provide a complete line of various low profile dry and wet compounds. D G20 a soft dry compounds, D G8 a medium dry compound, A G8 as an all weather medium compound and a W G16 as an all weather and/or wet conditions compound, are the variants used in the Power&Glory v2.0 mod.

POWER&GLORY ver. 2.0

Tyres Manual
GTL Workshop 2008 http://www.gtlw.co.uk ask@flyingpig.info