American Woodworker 134

G049QX
INCLUDES
FREESAFEfV
PUSH 8LOCKS
CE $1075
00
_
12" X 83W'
Parallelogram Joi
afar: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase
recision ground cast iron table
size: 12%' x 83W
o CuIIerhead knives: (4) 12' x W "'
o CuIIerhead dia.: 3%"
CuIIerhead speed: 4950 RPM
ox.depth of cut: Va"
ox. rabbeting
copacity: _%_'__Ir--.L--
prox.
ipping
: 1059 Ibs.
2 HP Cyclone Dust eolec:lDr
iotor: 2 HP, 220V,
_. Ie-phase, TEFC
;)ass 'F',
- ps: 12.5
ehole size: 7'
-'peller: 13W steel
lion capacity:
-354 CFM @ 2.5" SP
. static pressure: .
10.4'
Hiler surface area:
96 sq. ft.
Filter: 0.2-2 micron
Collection drum: steel,
35 gallons
Approx. shipping
weight: 359 Ibs.
NEW! NOISE REDUCING KIT
HB166 ONLY '39
95
G0440 ONLY $7
G0609
ONLY $1595
00
G0490X

3 HP Shaper
o Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-
w/reversing switch
o Precision ground cast iron to _
Table with standard wing
30W x 28'14'
o Spindle trovel: 3'
3 interchangeable
spindles 'h",
:*'&1'
Spindle openings
on lable: 1%",2%",
& 5V2"
. Ie speeds:
'000 &10,000 RPM
ox. shipping
t: 357 Ibs.
17" Heavy-Duty BandsolW
co,,) 0 Motor: 2 HP, -.
single-phase, ::.=:
o Precision gr
iron table siz". --
o Table tilt: 10
o Max. cutting '"
... 0 2 biade
, 3500 FP.
o Blade size: 13" =_
o Euro-style rol -
o Sealed & ft-1.......-.:r
beorings
o Approx. shi
MAPEIN
ISO 9001 FACrORY!
G0513 $75
G0444Zc .)
ONLY $625
G0576
ONLY $675
00
10" Table Saws wlCasf Iron Wings
Motor: 2 HP, 11 OVl220V, sing e-phose
o Precision ground cosl iron ab esize
wlwings: 27' x 39 %'
Arbor: %'
3W capacity @ 90
o 2'16" capacity @ 45
o 30" rip capacity
o SHOP FOX" Aluma-Closslc- Fence
o Approx. shipping weight: 298 bs
15" Planer w/Spiral Cutterhead
o Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase
o Precision ground cast iron tables &e
o Table size: 15" x 20'
o Max. cutting height: 8'
o Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM
o Cutterhead speed:
5000 RPM
o 2 speed gearbox
o Magnetic safety switch
o Heavy-duty cast iron
construction
o Approx. shipping
weight: 675 Ibs.
Foot Operated Built-in
Mobile Base Provides
Versatile Positioning
G0453Z
INTRODUCTORY PRICE $12950
o Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase or
5 HP, 220V/440V', 3-phase
o Precision ground cast iron table
o Table size w/extension: 27' x 75%'
o Max. depth of cut:
3
3
116'@90,2
1
1.' @
o Arbor: %'
o 52" rip capacity
o Approx. shipping
weight: 514 Ibs.
See it on
Page 23 ofthe
2008 Catalog.
'440'1 __
PIIRClllSEll'AllOOIlhAI.
COM!'OIlEII1S.CIllaET. SElMlfOR __
G0651 3 HP, single-phase
00
G0652 5 HP, 3-phase Inclwles 10"
00
andsi.de&rear
extensIon tables!
10" Heavy-Duty Cabinet
Table Saws w/Riving Knife
/' ; '1 Perfect for cutting panels and wide stock!
:;!
o
z
Q)
-
G _
American Woodworker MARCH 2008 1
....
ts#134, MARCH 2008
Well-Equipped Shop Special
20 ingenious new router innovations.
3 Picture Frames
No miter joints!
$100 RouterTable
How to make a large, fully-functional
machine on a tight budget.
Asian-Inspired Humidor
Ebonized details add a distinctive touch.
Desk Pad
Enhance your office
with a woodworker's flair.
Sapele Display Cabinet
The figure of this ribbon-stripe wood
shimmers like satin.
Design inWood
San Diego hosts the country's
largest woodworking competition.
Frame and Panel Door
Stile and rail cutters simplifyjoinery.
17 RouterTips
Jigs and tricks for your
shop's most versatile machine.
48
76
82
58
56
65
74
Features
24
40
94 ~ t ~ ~ t ~ ~ r t likes this shop-not!
Departments
4 Editor's Letter
Routers are hot!
Newideasjust keep on coming.
22
On The Cover
Question &Answer
Rout a lock miter joint, use a bandsaw
to rip short stock, and take photos of
boards before deciding how to glue
them together.
Oops!
Vacuuming sawdust off the chandelier
wasn't part of the plan.
Mailbox
5 cubes-in-a-cube: a new record?
WorkshopTips
Build a rack for turning tools, feed ply-
wood from a pivoting support, improve
a Long Ranger, organize cutoffs, hold
down short pieces on a miter saw, build
a horizontal flush-trimming machine,
double-up Quick-Grips, and use a latex
glove to store liquid finish.
Tool Nut
17 routers in one shop
and a Stanley dinosaur.
Peter Schmitt is a young furniture-
maker with a lot of ambition. Inspired
to pursue woodworking as a career by a
visit to the Steinway piano-building shops,
Peter attended the Chippendale International
School of Furniture in Gifford, Scotland, which offers
a 3D-week course in furniture design, construction and
restoration. Peter currently runs his own custom
woodworking business as a member of the Fourth
Street Guild, a cooperative shop in Minneapolis,
Minnesota. Visit www.schmittcustomfurniture.com to
see examples of Peter's work.
8
15
22
11
96
,2 American Woodworker MARCH 2008
Order Online!
www.oneido-oir.com
Call Todayfor FREE Catalog!
1.800.132.4065 Mode in the USA
2-
00
6
W
,
.. .'
...
4 American Woodworker MARCH 2008
RandyJohnson "
Jjohnson@americanwoodworker.cob
I
Until next time, happy routing,
Do you remember your first router? Mine was a Makita 3600BR plunge
router-I still have it. But my first exposure to a router goes back to when
I was a kid poking around my Dad's garage. He had an old all-metal
router, much like the Stanley pictured on page 22. Dad's router fascinat-
ed me, even though I didn't have a clue what it did. Even its sturdy flip-
top metal storage case struck me as an engineering wonder.
Later, as a teenager, I had a chance to use a Craftsman router my Dad
owned. The router bits all had l/4-in. shanks and were made from high-
speed steel. Routing a round-over on cherry or walnut was a tall order
that required a lot of hand sanding to get rid of the burns. But I was
hooked! Now, like most woodworkers, almost every one of my projects
involves routing of some kind.
Routers have come a long way from those early monsters that shook,
screamed and spewed blizzards of wood cl;1ips. Manufacturers and inven-
tive woodworkers continue to develop better, faster and more useful
machines, bits and accessories. This issue of American Woodworker
includes 20 router-related innovations in a special expanded "Well-
Equipped Shop," starting on page 24. There you'll find the newest routers
and high tech equipment, as well as router accessories that will improve
your woodworking without breaking your budget. If you're in the market
for a router, check out the exciting new models available from several
manufacturers including Craftsman, Festool, Freud, Porter-Cable and
Trend. They each deliver new features that will make your routing easier
and more accurate.
This issue also includes several projects that make use of both hand-
held and table routing. For a foolproof way to make frame and panel
doors check out the technique story on page 82. If you're looking for
useful routing tips and tricks, you'll find a collection of some of the best
on page 58. i
As you try out some of this new
gear or build one of our router proj-
ects, drop me an email or letter and
tell me about your experience. Send
in some good digital photos of your
projects and we'll add them to the
new Readers' Showcase section of
our website (www.americanwood-
worker. com/readersshowcase), or to
the Woodworkers' Gallery section in
an upcoming issue of American
Woodworker.
I
EDITOR'S LETTER
Woodchips and Router Bits
6 AmeriGlJl Woodworker .' CH 2008
AMERICAN
WOODWORKER
EDITORIAL
Editor Randy Johnson
Senior Editor Tom Caspar
Associate Editors Tim Johnson
Dave Munkittrick
Contributing Editors Richard Helgeson
Bill Hylton
Suwat Phruksawan
Office Administrator ShellyJacobsen
ART & DESIGN
Issue #134. American Woodworker, ISSN 1074-9152,
USPS 738-710 Published bimonthly, except monthly
October and NO\'ember by AW Media LLC, 90 Shennan Sl.,
Cambridge, MA 02140. Periodicals paid at
Boston, MA and additional mailing olTIces. Postmaster;
Send change of address notice to American Woodworker,
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U.S. newsstand distribution by Curtis Circulation Company,
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Categol)' President/Publisher Roger Case
Associate Publisher/
Nalional Sales Manager James Ford
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Production Manager Dominic M. Taormina
Ad Produclion Coordinator Kristin N. Beaudoin
Systems Engineer Denise Donnarumma
Circulation St.eve Pippin
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Creative DirecLOr Vern Johnson
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ADVERTISING SALES
1285 Coq)Qrat.e Celller Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121
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Article Index
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e-mail
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New Products From Lee Valley
Loc-Line Dust Collection System
A
If you've ever had to improvise dust collection at a drill
press or while template routing, you'll appreciate this
modular system. Aseries of 18 rigid plastic cuffs interlock
to form a 23" long articulating hose (min. inside bending
radius of 4") that you can customize to length and that holds
any position rigidly. There are two snap-in nozzles: oval for
concentrated airflow and rectangular to cover awider area.
The 21/2" hose adapter connects to standard vacuum
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A. 23" Loc-Line Hose 03J67.21 $27.50
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F. 4" to 21/2" Adapter 05J21.12 $3.25
Widely used commercially, these make
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MAILBOX
BENCH BUDGET
r recently had a lot of fun build-
ing your plywood and 2x4 bench
(AW#89, October 2001) and
should get a lot of good use out of
it I changed your plans a bit and
used bead board on the outside of
the two ends, Your cost estimate of
$250 is a bit low, six years later, and
must have omitted the vice hard-
ware, I spent $300 for the lumber,
$160 for the quick-release face vise,
and $26 for the tail
Vise, so my total was $486, I'm
pretty happy with tlie bench-it
weighs, a ton!
TELL Us WHAT You REALLY THINK
Bruce Boehmke
ROUTER SUCCESS
Here's a photo of a stool I made
using your method of routing its
round parts" rather than turning
them (AW#128, April/May 2007),
I had very limited experience with
routers before tackling this proj-
ect, as I was somewhat intimidated,
but your jigs worked very welL I
look forward to using them on
more projects, Last week I went
out and bought a new and bigger
router! '.
Rick Finney
COPING SAW
CONTROVERSY
I have been a shop teacher. for
27 years, Eitl1er I have been giving
my students the wrong informa-
tion about coping saws or you
made a mistake, In the October
2007 issue (AW#131) you have an
article entitled "Which way do the
teeth go?" You wrote that the teeth
could go either way, but I've taught
my students that the teeth should
always point toward the handle, so
that the handle is pulling the blade
through the wood, If the teeth
point away from the handle, the
saw's frame can bend, which will
cause the blade to loosen and
come off, Please tell me if I am
right or wrong, or at least tell me if
you think my reasoning makes
sense,
DaveJensen
Yes, your reasoning does make
sense, and many other readers wrote
us with the same concern. I've never
experienced a problem with the blade
coming off, but I suppose it could
happen with some saws, particularly
if the blade is dull or not fully ten-
sioned. I always stretch the blade as
tight as the saw allows. -Tom Caspar
COMPRESSOR
CAUTION
Chris Cardinal did a wonderful
job restoring his 1945 Kellogg air
compressor (AW#132, o\', 2007),
but I'd be concerned about the
tank, which could fail from corro-
sion. The result would be cata-
strophic. Any compres or tank oyer
ten years old should haye a thor-
ough inspection-its thickness
should be measured usina an ultra-
sonic thickness gauge.
Tom Codispoti
MAILBOX
5 CUBES IN ONE
A light bulb went off midway
through reading "Cube In A Cube"
(AW#130, September 2007). I
thought, why not make even more
cubes inside each other-and use a
plunge router and template guide
instead of a drill press?
I started out with a 4-
3/4-in. basswood cube
and figured out on
graph paper that I
could make
four smaller
cubes inside
the big one. I
made four tem-
plates from thin
plywood, one for
each size circle. I
got so excited
about it all that I
destroyed my first
blank by forgetting to
put the template
guide in the router. I also destroyed
one of my templates by lifting up
the router before it stopped. Focus,
focus; focus! Which I did, and it
worked.
Martin Dohnalik
DROP US A LINE
American Woodworker welcomes your
letters and e-mails about our articles.
website, and all things woodworking.
Published letters may by edited for style
and length and become the property of
American Woodworker.
Send e-mails to aweditor@american-
woodworker.com. Send postal mail to
AW Mailbox, American Woodworker
Magazine, 1285 Corporate Center Drive,
Suite 180. Eagan, MN 55121.
Amel;can Woodworker MARCH 2008 9
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LAS E R
Calling All Workshop Tips!
We know you've got 'em...
tips that save money, tips
that save time, tips for gluing,
clamping and assembly,
measuring, machining or
finishing. Enter your favorite
workshop tip today.
You could win a Leigh
Super Jig with VRS!
L51:H.
2008 Workshop Tips Tool Giveaway
The editors of American Woodworker are looking for terrific
workshop tips from dedicated woodworkers-like you! Starting
with the February/March issue and continuing throughout 2008,
we'll choose one great tip per issue-and the woodworker who
sent it to us will receive a 12 inch Leigh Super Jig with VRS
(Vacuum and Router Support). Don't miss your chance to get
your workshop tip published in American Woodworker and win
a Super Jig with VRS from Leigh Tools!
How to Enter:
Send your best original workshop tips bye-mail or regular mail. Include a
description of each tip along with photos or a sketch, your name, address
and a daytime phone number.
E-mail your tips to: TooIGiveaway@AmericanWoodworker.com or mail
them to: Workshop lips Tool Giveaway, American Woodworker, 1285
Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121. Please note that
submissions ca"nnot be returned.
For more information about Leigh Super Jigs, visit
www.americanwoodworker.com/superjigs
QUE S T ION & A N S W E R byTomCaspal
Lock MiterJoint
MARCH 2008 11
Source:
Woodcraft Supply.
www.woodcraft.com (800)
225-1153, Whiteside Lock
Miter Bit, 2" Dia. for
1/2"- to 3/4"-thick
stock, 812508, $95.
A
There are two critical adjust-
ments (Fig. A). First, you set
the bit's height; second, you position
the fence. Once that's done, you can
rout both sides of a lock miter joint
without changing anything.
To get started, you must use a variable-
speed router set at 10,000 rpm to slow down
this large-diameter bit to a safe speed. Make
some test pieces that are exactly the same
thickness as the parts you'll join together.
Then adjust the bit's height by eye until it
looks like it's centered on the workpiece.
Position the fence by eye, too.
Make test cuts on two pieces (Photo 1).
Put the pieces together and see whether
their outside edges are flush. Raise or
lower the bit as needed, without moving
the fence, and make more test cuts until
you've got the bit exactly centered on the
thickness of your material.
Next, tweak the fence's position in or
out and make some more test cuts. Your
goal is to make a sharp edge on top of the workpiece, leav-
ingjust a whisker of its original edge. If the fence is too far
out, you'll make a blunt edge on the workpiece, and the
joint won't have a sharp outside corner. If the fence is too
far in, you'll get ajog along the workpiece's edge, and the
board will snipe at the end of the cut.
Once you've set the fence,
machine half of your pieces flat on
the table. Cut the other half by
holding them vertically against
the fence (Photo 2).
Q
-
How do you set up
alack miter bit?
To make a lock miter joint, align the center of
the bit with the center of your material. Then,
position the fence to produce a knife edge.
2
Rout the mating piece of a lock miter joint by
standing it upright. Pre-cut the ends of all
your pieces on a tablesaw to make the job easier.
I
To check the bit's height, rout two
test pieces and fit them together
(see inset). If their outside edges are
flush, you're good to go.
~ ..------------ -----------
QUESTION & ANSWER
- --
SWITCH TO A BANDSAW
Q
How can I safely rip
short pieces of wood?
A
Use a bandsaw, not a tablesaw.
It's not good shop practice to rip
a board less than 12 in. long on
the tablesaw because it may kick back at
you. A bandsaw won't kick back. Use a
fence to guide the cut and a push stick to
keep your fingers out of harm's way.
Smooth the rough surface with a sanding
block or a hand plane, or rub it on a
piece of sandpaper taped to a flat surface,
such as your tablesaw.
QUESTION & ANSWER
VIRTUAL GLUING
I've got three unusual boards to glue
together, but I'm having a hard time
visualizing all the combinations of
which board should go next to which.
Any tips?
Here's one idea: make "virtual" tops. Take
photos of the boards, cut up the pictures,
and tape them together in different arrangements.
Make copies of the arrangements you like, so you
can directly compare one with another.
Let's assume that you've got three boards and
both sides of each board are good enough to face up
in your top. Pick one side of each board and mark it
as AI, Bl or Cl. Lay the boards together, in any
order, and take a photo. Turn the boards over, mark
the opposite faces as A2, B2 and C2, and take anoth-
er photo. Print several copies of both photos and
you've got your virtual boards.
Cut up the photos and arrange the pieces as you
wish. You can even "rip" a board with a pair of scis-
sors to see how the figure in one board may best
blend with the figure in another.
A
Q
Tell me how I can crain at home for a
new career or business of my own, with no
obligation. Choose ONE program only.
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Penn Foster Career School provides
professional-quality tools and the
training to use them. You choose the
time and place to study, and you decide
how quickly to complete your coursework.
ALI learning materials are sent directly to you.
Study online, in print, or a combination of
both. You study independently, but not alone.
Expert insttuctors and a helpful support staff are
just a phone caLI or an email away.
Dept. A2PS18T
925 Oak Street
Scranton, PA 18515-0700
PEN--J FOSTER
CAREER SCHOOL
" L..- .:.:..... _
Watch videos of theseproducls
in acUon at www.kregloo.com
ITEM# PRS1040
Built-In Vertical Jointer
www.kreltool.com
800.441.8636
Self-Squaring Fence Steel Reinforced MDF Top
In Enlirlv ;1.
Unlike conventional router tables, our all new
Precision Router Table utilizes a self-squaring tablesaw inspired
fence to dramatically improve the way you work. Because the
fence always moves parallel to the miter slot, even the most minor
adjustment made on the fence's scale translates perfectly to the
bit It's the kind of innovation you've come to expect from Kreg,
and we're confident it'll make all the difference in your shop.
WEDGED LATHE TOOL RACK
My lathe tool rack is based on a fishing rod rack that I made some time
ago. Made from 3/4-in.-thick walnut, it measures 3-l/8-in. by 10-in. by 30-
in. I made the front and back tool supports by ripping a 3-l/8-in.-wide
board in half after drilling centered 1-l/2-in.-dia. holes on l-7/8-in. cen-
ters. I installed the 2-3/4-in.-wide bottom board at a 45-degree angle to
gently wedge the long handles between the bottom and the two supports.
This system accommodates different handle styles by allowing each tool to
find it's natural resting point. Now my lathe tools rest firmly in place, yet
are easy to remove and replace.
Dick West
OUR READERS
edited by
TirnJohnson
LEI H.
Send your best original
workshop tips. We pay $100
for every tip we publish (and
send along a classy American
Woodworker shirt). In addition,
we'll feature one terrific tip in
each issue. The winner
receives a 12" Leigh Super Jig
with VRS (Vacuum and Router
Support), a $294 value.
E-mail your tip to
worl<shoptips@americanwoodworl<er.com
or send it to Workshop Tips,
American Woodworl<er, 1285 Corporate
Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN
55121.
Submissions can't be returned and
become our property upon acceptance
and payment. We may edit submissions
and use them in all print and electronic
media.
One shirt per contributOt;
offer good only while supplies last.
SALE PRICE
S45
95
ORDER ITEM #1463
PLUS:
FREE!
ROUTER
COLLET
EXTENSION
1/2 collet for
1/2" shank bits
Miter Gauge Included:
Has positive stops at 90
and 45, held by a3/4"
wide x318" deep T-slot
Standard &. X-Large
Coping Safety Sleds
Perfect for cross-grain rail cuts! No need to make the
router table fence and mitre slot parallel. A500 lb. hold-
ing clamp (XL Sled has two) and special abrasive strip
holds material secure. Glide
the PVC sled along router
fence and cut into the
replaceable backer
block to reduce
tearout. Standard Sled is
4-3/4" x11-112" x3/8".
The XL Sled holds stock
up to 6-114"
wide and
measures 9-1/2"
x 18-3/8" X 3/8".
"HEAVYWEIGHT" Router Table &. Fence
WITH FREE COLLET EXTENSIONl
At 120 Ibs, this is a BIG boy!
Large, heavy-duty CAST-IRON top:
(almost 100 Ibs.) machined fiat with
lots of work space (26-7/8" x 20")
and removable rings to
allow 3 different size
openings 0-118",
2-114",3-5/8"). The
cast iron top eliminates
vibration, making the
Heavyweight Table
perfect for your heavy
duty 3 HP router.
Universal Clamping
System: Holds any
router (up to 3-112 HP)
without drilling
Tilt-up Access: Allows
easy access to router
for adjustments
Power Switch: Conveniently mounted
on front leg with built-in safety key
Split Fence: Adjustable extruded alumi-
num fence with large 4" dust extraction
port and convenient hold downs
Sturdy Stand: Splayed steel legs for
extra stability
1/2" shank with carbide cutters.
Make raised panel doors, table tops
and drawers. For stock up to 3/4".
Includes Shaker Raised Panel
with Undercutter, Matched
Rail and Stile, Glue
Joint and 'Drawer
Lock bits.
SHAKER Router Bit
Cabinetmaker Set
PROFILEB-#1474
S9
95
1-800-533-9298
PROFESSIONAL ROUTE.R BITS & WOODWORKING PRODUCTS
1/2" shank with carbide cutters.
Locked in joint - easy alignment.
Add an attractive edge to cabinet
doors and shelves. Use with plywood
MDF panels or shelves from 112" to
I" thick. Large glue surface.
PROFILEA-#1475
$44
95
FREE SHIPPINGI EVERY PRODUCT, EVERY ~
ML SWO DW' 1 C M
Excellent Quality Carbide Tipped set Irtcludes:
6Straight, 6Round Over, 4Chamfer, 3Hinge Mortising,
3 Round Nose, 3 Dovetail, 3 Cove, 2Bevel Trim,
2Flush Trim, 2V-Groove, 2RomaH agee, 1Slot Cutter,
1Panel Pilot, 1Cove Sign Lettering, I STORAGE BOX [NaUOE" I
1Classical Bit, 1Cove &: Bead, FREE LUBE!
1Keyhole, 1Ogee Fillet,l Rabbeting, $"11995
1Groove Forming Classical, 1Allen ....
Wrench &: bearing to convert Round 1/4" SHANK#146I
Over into Beading bit. ill" SHANK#1462
EDGE BANDING
Router Bit Sets
I . 1
45 PIECE Router Bit Set
WITH FREE BEARING LUBE! I
WORKSHOP TIPS
....
REMOTE
CONTROL
COLLAR
PLYWOOD
TIPPER
Hoisting heavy sheets of
plywood and MDF onto my
tablesaw is not my idea of
workshop fun. That's why I
devised this pivoting rack-
and began storing my sheet
stock vertically.
The rack's frame fits around
the two base uprights and piv-
ots on bolts. A cleat at the bot-
tom keeps the sheet from slid-
ing off.
Mter installing a sheet on
the rack, I simply tip it down
toward the saw. A horizontal
stop with adjustable feet
holds the rack at tablesaw
height. The feet are oriented
upside down, so they thread
into the top of the stop.
Miles Clay
The remote control
module for my dust col-
lection system used to
drive me crazy: When it was
clipped to my belt or pocket, it
would turn the system on whenever I
inadvertently bumped into something (my
shop is rather crowded). I solved the problem by
gluing a wood collar around the "on" button.
Mark Thiel
H P ~ v Mini Multi..Plane
Look at what you can now do
with your HP-6v2!
www.BridgeCityTools.com
80.0.253.3332
With the grain
Across the grain
Against the grain
Through the grain
Visit your nearest WEST SYSTEM
deaJer or contact
Gougeon Brothers Inc.
866-937-8797 (toillree)
westsyslem.com
WEST
~
G/flex is a tough, resilient epoxy, engineered for superior adhesion
to wood-resinous woods, hardwoods, exotic woods, even damp
wood. G/flex is toughened to make structural bonds that absorb
the stresses of expansion and contraction, shock and vibration.
And if you are bonding wood to something else, G/flex has
excellent adhesion to metals, plastics, fiberglass, masonry and
other dissimilar materials.
G/flex is available as a versatile,
easily-modified liquid or a convenient
pre-thickened adhesive, both with a
simple 1:1 mix ratio. No matter what
the species, G/flex is the solution to
your toughest wood gluing problems.
G/flex. EPOXY
WORKSHOP TIPS
ORGANIZED STORAGE FOR SHORT STOCK
My storage bin makes it easy to find the perfect offcut by auto-
matically organizing pieces by length. It has one fixed center
divider and six that I can quickly add or r ~ m o v to customize the
storage as my collection of short pieces changes.
I made the box from a sheet of plywood cut into two 4-ft. by 4-ft.
pieces. I cut one piece in half to create the 24-in. by 48-in. bottom,
the 24-in by 18-in.-tall front and 24-in. by 30-in.-tall back. I cut the
other 4-ft. by 4-ft. piece diagonally to form the two sloping sides.
The 4-in.-wide dividers were cut from scrap stock. They install in
stopped dadoes routed in the sides. I mounted four heavy-duty swiv-
el casters under the bin, so it steers easily.
Serge Duclos
JIG FOR
SHORT CUTS
When I need to cut a
bunch of small, equally
sized pieces, I install this
simple jig. It holds short
pieces securely during and
after cutting, so they don't
get caught by the blade and
thrown around the shop.
Myjig is just a hold-down
clamp attached to a
squarely-cut piece of ply-
wood. This clamp is
designed for T-Track use, but it can also be attached to a work sur-
face. I simply slide the jig in position and use the saw's hold-down
clamp to secure it.
George Davis
Source
Grizzly Industrial. www.grizzly.com. (800) 523-4777, Hold-Down Clamp, #H0879, $4.
for your mo
Measure tenon length while cutting with Patent Pending
"IN-SIGHT"system
Solid aircraft grade aluminum body for greatest strength. lightest weight
Dual hardened steel blades
Cutters available in many sizes of 600 tapered and radius shoulders
Call or visit our web site today for afree catalog!
Circle No. 154
Non-Bleed Sprayguns
High-Efficiency Aircap
Exciting New Models
Standard or Quiet Turbines
Industrial-rated
leighjig6.com 800-663-8932
Steve Keller
CLAMP
SPACERS
While I was gluing up
the pedestals for an oak
desk, I realized I needed a
way to hold the sides par-
allel at the front. Three
,Quick-Grip clamps and a
scrap wood spacer did the
trick. They installed in sec-
onds and were easy to
adjust.
No-Fuss
FLUSH
TRIMMING
My flush-trimming
setup allows trim-
ming veneer and
solid wood edging up
to 7IS-in. thick. It
consists of a router
with a l/2-in. straight
bit, a table and a per-
pendicular fence. A 1-
in.-thick spacer sepa-
rates the fence and
table. The router
mounts to the fence so the bit is flush with the tabletop. I attach my
shop vacuum's hose to a hole drilled through the cleat, under the bit.
I size the edging so it overhangs by l/l6-in. or less.
After brushing the first coat of
finish on my shelf project, quite
a bit remained in the disposable
cup. I didn't want to pour it
back, because that would con-
taminate the fresh finish that
remained in the can. But I did
not want to waste the finish by
throwing it away, either.
Knowing the shelves were going to need a second coat the next day,
and because I was using a disposable brush, I decided on a third
option. I simply stretched a latex glove over the brush and around the
top of the cup. This option saved both the finish and the brush, so I
was ready to put on the next coat with a minimum of fuss.
Ray Lanham
Richard Helgeson
WORKSHOP TIPS
GLOVE SAVE
TOOLS OUR READERS LOVE
ROUTER WRANGLER
I guess you could say that I'm obsessed with routers. I'm only 36 years
old, but I've got 17 of them. It's not just a whim, though. I've been a profes-
sional woodworker for 18 years, and I've learned that in a
good cabinetmaking shop you're likely to
find several routers dedicated to spe-
cific jobs, with their bits set up ready
to go. I've adopted this strategy in
my home shop, too, where I make
traditional country furniture and
modern cabinets.
My collection has grown as
I've found more and more uses
for my routers. I keep a special
ogee bit for making door edges
in a Bosch D-handle 2-1/4-hp
router, for example. There's
always a 1/2-in. flush-trimming bit in
a 1-3/4-hp Milwaukee router for evening
up face frames with cabinet sides. And I can
count on having a dovetail bit pre-set at exactly the
right height in my 1-3/4-hp Porter-Cable router, for use in a dovetail jig. One
of my pals and I always joke around about how nice it would be to have a
router for every bit we own. Well, I'm off to a good start!
Jeff Corns
MEET STANLEY, THE ROBOT
My ancient Stanley M1-A 1-1/2-hp router was already 20 years
obsolete when I bought it in 1973 at a grungy used tool shop in
Chicago. Made from highly polished aluminum, it looks like a robot
out of a fifties sci-fi movie and routs all that stands before it just as
relentlessly. The 18,000 rpm motor makes up in torque what it lacks
in speed-if you're not braced when you start it, it can wrench your
wrists. There must be a fortune in copper in the motor's windings;
this beast feels like it's twice the weight of a modern router.
The on-off toggle switch is on the router's base, not on the
motor-you have to plug the motor into it, like a modern D-handled
router. The switch is situated so it can be operated with a flick of the
thumb while your hand is still on the knob. The knobs, like those on
treasured old Stanley/Bailey planes, are Brazilian rosewood, a
material now as illegal to import as ivory. Close to sixty years
old, the router is still going strong. I've replaced the bearings a
couple of times but I'm down to my last pair of brushes. I hope
they don't wear out before I do.
. Are you a Tool Nut, too? You'll get I \
the new Leatherman Charge AL aerospace "
aluminum multi-tool if we publish your
. story. Send your tale to
woodworker.com, or mail it to American
Woodworker, 1285 Corporate Center 1.'.
Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121. fl
Please include digital photos of \
your tool if possible. For more on the \ "
Charge AL, www.leatherman.com ..: /
LEATHERMAN ''U
DEFINITION:
A computer-controlled, multi-function shop tool for
routing, drilling, carving, machining, sawing,
grooving, turning, joint making, engraving, sign
making and intricate cutting of wood, plastic and
aluminum...
...We call it
Buddy
The new
ShopBot PRSalpha BT32 "Buddy is here.
Call or visit us online to learn more about the latest
high-performance CNC systems from ShopBot.
Calling all Tool Nuts!
I really don't need five cordless drills, seven routers
or 24 antique hand planes, but I can't help it.
I'm a tool nut. Are you?
Have you ever bought an old woodworking machine just because it
looked cool? Tried a new tool and said, "Wow! This just changed my
life!" Used a big, industrial machine and wondered how in the world
you could sneak it into your shop?
We'd like to hear your stories. So e-mail or send us a letter about a
tool or machine that really gets you excited. We'll send you a new
Leatherman Charge AL multi-tool if we publish your story. Please
include a photograph, too. We'd prefer a digital image, but a slide or
print is OK. Visit our Web site, www.americanwoodworker.com/tool-
nut for some examples of what we've got in mind.
E-mail yourentrytotoolnut@americanwoodworker.com
or write to us at The Tool Nut, American Woodworker
Magazine, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180,
Eagan, MN 55121.
Router Innovations
FEATURE-RICH,
POWERFUL AND
ERGONOMICALLY
SMART
Festool set the bar high
when it set out to develop
the new OF2200 plunge
router. An initial look at the
machine suggests they
made it over that bar, with
room to spare. To accom-
plish this, Festool took a fresh look at
this workhorse of a tool, and devel-
oped the OF2200 to better fit the
routing habits of woodworkers. The
number of user-friendly features
reads like a wish list. Here's a quick
run-down:
Tool-free quick-release base plate - provides rapid changing of
guide bushings and various accessory bases.
30-degree rotated base - positions the handles at a more ergonom-
ic (30-degree) orientation to the work piece for routing.
Ratcheting spindle lock -Festool has taken the much-appreciated
spindle lock feature one step further by adding a ratcheting mech-
anism. This further simplifies the sometimes knuckle-bangingjob
of changing bits.
Other noteworthy features include a powerful 3-1/4 hp soft-start,
self-braking variable speed
motor, exceptional dust collec-
tion, double column clamping,
over 3 inches of plunge, and
fine adjustment in steps of
l/256-in. For an expanded dis-
cussion on these and other fea-
tures visit www.americanwood-
worker/ festool 0 F2200.
Source
Festool, www.festool.com. (888) 337-8600,
Plunge router, OF2200, Available late
spring or early summer 2008, price was
not available at time of publication.
24 American Woodworker NOVEMBER 2007
3-SIDED MOLDER
For years, the Woodmaster 12-in.
Molder/Planer has been a faithful friend
to small and medium-sized shops. It cuts a
wide variety of moldings on the top sur-
face of a board. Someone at Woodmaster
just had a great idea: why not add two 3.5-
hp Milwaukee routers to the machine and
make three-sided moldings in a single
pass? Well, they've figured it out. .
Three-sided molders are standard in
large production shops, and cost many
thousands of dollars. Woodmaster's new
system is far less expensive. A new 12-in.
Woodmaster Molder/Planer with the 3-
Side Molding System starts at $3,995.
(The two routers can also be retrofitted
to existing Woodmaster 18-in. and 25-in.
molder/planers.) As you know, commer-
cially-made molding can really add up in
cost, and there's a limited number of
species available. With your own 3-sided
molder, you can tum out hundreds of
feet of tongue-and-groove flooring,
crown molding, base molding, and more,
for far less cost, and you can use any
wood you want.
Source
Woodmaster Tools, www.woodmastertools.com.
(800) 821-6651, 3-Side Molding System, $3,995.
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DOWNSHEAR
CUTTER
ELIMINATE FUZZY FILLETS
Freud's new Quadra-Cut router bits produce routed profiles with little or no tear
out or fuzz even on cross-grain cuts. These unique, patented bits employ four cut-
ting edges instead of two. The large profile cutters remove most of the stock with an
upshear cut. Then a pair of downshear cutters makes the final cut to produce an
ultra clean edge with no fuzz or splinters at the top surface.
Freud is introducing the new Quadra-Cut technology in select edge-forming bits
with li2-in. shanks. We got our hands on a round-over bit and tried it out on some
red oak panels. The results were amazing (see photos above). Both bits were brand
new, but the difference in cut quality, especially at the fillet on the top, was quite noticeable. We made full-pro-
file cuts in a single pass to really put the design to the test. The Quadra-Cut bit left a near-perfect surface requir-
ing only a light sanding before finishing (Photo A). A standard bit of the same profile left a lot of fuzz and
tearout at the top of the fillet (Photo B). Needless to say, we were very impressed with this bit design.
Source
Freud, www.freudtools.com
UPGRADE YOUR LIFT WITH DIGITAL ACCURACY AND REPEATABILITY
The Digi-Router is the newest member of the Digi-Kit family from
Accurate Technologies. The Digi-Router is made in the U.S.A. and
designed to retrofitJessEm and Bench Dog router lifts with other router
lift models in the works.
The Digi-Router permits router height adjustments to within 0.010 inch-
es and the readout can be set for decimal inches, millimeters, or fractions.
The fraction setting features a bar graph that shows height changes in 1/64-
in. increments
(Photo left).
The remote LCD
digital display has 1/2-
in.-tall digits for easy read-
ing. The system installs in
under 3O-minutes. It's easy to cali-
brate, allowing you to start at zero or
preset any starting position. You can also
toggle between absolute and incremental readings at
the push of a button.
The Digi-Router comes with a I-year warranty
and a CRI23 Lithium battery that lasts up to. 24
months, plus full color installation and operation
manuals.
Source
Accurate Technology. www.digi-kit.com. (800) 233-0580,
Digi-Router, $150.
WE LL-EQU I PPE D SHOP
A HUNDRED JIGS IN ONE
The Router-Ease Guide is an American-
made tool designed to meet the needs of
both the weekend enthusiast and the pro-
fessional.
The Router-Ease Guide functions as a
two- or four-sided adjustable jig/template.
The Router-Ease Guide eliminates down-
time used to design and makes jigs or tem-
plates for particular routing tasks. It can be
set for cutting dadoes, stop dadoes, rab-
bets, hinge mortises, pocket mortises, flut-
ing or sink cutouts on countertops. The
Router-Ease Guide can even be used to cut
dadoes on an angle such as the short,
stopped dadoes used in louvered shutters
or doors.
Two irinovations make this guide easy to
use: the Gauge Block and the Dado Block.
. Both are included with the Route-Ease
Guide and are used to quickly and accu-
rately set the guide arms. The Dado Block
is used with a 1/2-in. straight bit and the
included subbase. The Gauge block is
stepped to allow for the use of 1/2-in., 3/8-
in., and 1/4-in. bits. Simply set the appro-
priate block along a guide arm.) move the
arm until the block touches your layout
. line and tighten the lock-down knob.
Available in three stock sizes and custom
sizes.
Source
REG, Inc., www.routereaseguide.com. Router-Ease
Guide, $176 - $236 depending on size.
DOUBLE
SIDED
INSERT Is
LIKE Two
BITS IN ONE
Amana's V-Groove
CNC Router Bits Use a
. high-grade carbide-insert
knife to create perfect
signs and miters on your
CNC machine. They are
available in both I/2-in.
and 3/4-in. shanks and sever-
al cutter angles ranging from
22.5 to 80 degrees.
The inserts have two cutting edges.
VVhen one side gets worn, rotate the insert for a brand
new cutting edge. A secure locking screw system ensures
maximum safety and cutting accuracy.
We used Amana's V-Groove bit (above) in a ShopBot to
carve our name in solid oak (below), and to cut a long
miter on veneered plywood (top). The bit and the
ShopBot performed flawlessly to produce a beautiful sign
with crisp lettering with little or no tear out and a flawless
mitered edge.
Source
Amana Tool, wwwamanatool.com, 800-445-0077.
PERFECT SCRIBE EVERY TIME
Cabinets and countertops seldom fit perfectly to a wall.
The traditional solution involves holding the cabinet in place
and using a compass to transfer the wall contours to the cab-
inet's scribe strip then machining, sanding and filing the pro-
file on the strip. It's a time-eonsuming battle for perfection.
The QuickScribe eliminates all the hassle and imperfection.
The QuickScribe is an accessory plate that attaches to sev-
eral popular offset trim routers, including Bosch, DeWalt and
Porter-Cable. The offset bit is centered in a non-marking
wheel in the plate. The router's original base plate is then
reattached to the QuickScribe. The wheel follows the wall,
transferring the exact contours to the edge being cut for a
perfect fit without sanding or filing.
The ScribeMate and the EuroScriber are accessories
designed for specializedjobs such as multi-sided scribes, and
frameless, Euro-style scribes. Both tools are used in conjunc-
tion with the QuickScribe.
The ScribeMate fits on a larger router and is designed to
follow a template made with the QuickScribe. The
Euroscriber is used to fit Euro-style or frameless cabinets to a
w ~ The EuroScriber clamps the cabinets' scribe strips exact-
ly one inch from the wall. The QuickScribe is then used to cut
the scribe strip to fit the wall.
Visit www.thescribingtool.com for great videos on all three
products.
Source
QuickScribe, www.tbescribingtool.com. (402) 965-4360, QuickScribe or
ScribeMate, $80; Set of three Euroscribers, $60.
.S
FULL-FEATURED BENCHTOP ROUTER TABLE
A small benchtop router table should have all the
important features of a large floor model: a thick top
with a slick plastic-laminate skin; a miter slot, for hold-
ing a miter gauge or featherboard; a large phenolic
insert plate that's easy to level; a split fence, for cre-
ating minimal-clearance openings around a
bit; T-track above the fence, for installing
a safety shield or additional featherboard;
and a 3-in.-dia. dustport. Whew. Let's see:
did we leave anything out? You get all of
this, and more, with Kreg's new compact
router table.
Its top measures a generous 16-in. by
24-in. The unit stands 20-in. tall, includ-
ing the 4-in. tall fence, and weighs only
26 Ibs.-perfect for carrying across the
shop from a storage shelf to your bench,
or for hauling to ajobsite.
Source
Kreg Tools, kregtool.com, (800) 447-8638, Precision
Benchtop Router Table, Model PRS2000, $230.
Americ'an Woodwor)<er MARCH 2008 27
The Digital Readout has
Digi-Router adds digital resolution of .01 mm,
accuracy & repeatability .001 inch or 1/64 inch.
to your Jessum Master Absolute and Incremental
Lift Model 02201. measurements for dead
Lithium battery lasts on accuracy.
up to 24 months! MADE IN THE USA.
Digi-Kits are manufactured by
Accurate Technology - THE trusted name for
Digital Measuring in the woodworking industry
since 1989. Choose the best - choose a Digi-Kit.
WE L L- EQUI PPED SHOP
NEW OMNIJIGS FROM PORTER-CABLE
Porter-Cable's Omnijig has earned its reputation as a dependable and accurate dovetailing system over almost
two decades. Aniving soon are two new OmnijigJoinery System models: the 16-in. Model 55160 and the 24-in.
Model 77240.
Both models share important features. They come completely assembled and include a stabilizer bar that
keeps the router from tipping forward. It also deflects chips down to the floor (an accessory dust chute is avail-
able). Dedicated set-and-forget stops position each template. According to the manufacturer, that means the tem-
plates don't have to be readjusted when you change from one operation to another. Onboard depth gauges
make it easy to accurately set the router bit's height. And onboard instructions remind you how to set up each
operation, so you won't have to reread the owner's manual each time you use thejig (incidentally, eachjig comes
with an instructional DVD featuring Norm Abrams). Bothjigs accept stock up to 1-1/2 inches thick.
Each model is uniquely outfitted. The 16-in. 55160 is equipped with a template for cutting fixed half-blind dove-
tails in a single pass (think production-style drawers). This template also allows you to cut sliding dove-
tails. A 16-in. variable finger template will be available as an accessory.
The 24-in. 77240 comes with a variable finger
template for cutting both full and half-blind
dovetails. This template features split
fingers that allow adjusting the
width of the pins as well as
their location. A 24-in tem-
plate for cutting produc-
tion-style half-blind dove-
tails will be available as an
accessory.
Source
Porter-Cable, www.deltaportercable.com.
(888) 848-5175, 16-in Omnijig Joinery System
Model 55160, $429; 24-in Model 77240, $599.
CAST-IRON Top ROUTER TABLE
Bit by bit, high-end router tables are beginning to
look more like classic shapers, the heavy-duty work-
horse machines used in professional shops. Bench
Dog has taken the latest step along that path with the
introduction of a substantial cast-iron top. Other than
the obvious virtue of being almost indestructible
(Bench Dog calls it "bomb-proof'), a cast-iron top will
stay as flat as the top of your tablesaw, which is critical
for precision routing. You can also purchase this top
separately and bolt it to your tablesw, replacing the
right-side supp'ort table.
This top is part of a modular set of router table com-
binations from Bench Dog which allow you to mix and
match from three types of tops (cast iron, solid pheno-
lic, and MDF) and three types of bases (Baltic Birch or
melamine closed stands, and a Baltic Birch open
stand). You can also add drawers, doors, an external
power switch, and locking casters as accessories.
Source
Bench Dog Tools, www.benchdog.com. (800) 786-8902, ProMAX
Complete, Model 40-087, $869: ProMAX top only, with fence, Model
40-031, $399.
WELL-EQUIPPED SHOP
DIGITAL PLUNGE ROUTER
Digital readout has finally arrived on a mainstream router. This new la-amp
plunge router from Craftsman has an integrated LED screen that allows you to
precisely set the depth of cut, in fractions of an inch or millimeters, without using
a scale or ruler.
Adjusting the depth of cut on many plunge routers can be a real hassle, but
not on this machine. The Craftsman system is easy to use because it's so intuitive.
As with all plunge routers, the first step is to lower the bit until it touches your
workbench and engage the plunge lock lever to hold the bit in position. Next,
rotate a depth-of-cut knob to lower a stop rod until it contacts the router's base.
Standard procedure so far, but now comes the new, digital part. Press a zeroing
button, then dial up the stop rod. As you tum this knob, the readout screen clear-
ly indicates how deep the bit will cut, to the nearest 1/64-in. Asimple twist of anoth-
er knob locks the stop rod in place, and you're ready to go,
Other good features on this router include 1/4-in. and 1/2-in. collets, variable
speed, soft start, a conveniently located on/off switch, and a dust shield and dust port.
This router would work well in a router table, but it lacks a couple of user-friendly features. Although you get
a long extension knob for setting the height of a bit from underneath the table, you can't raise the collet high
enough to change bits from above the table. Another small problem: when the router's upside down, the digital
readout is also upside-down; it would be nice if the readout had a button for flipping the numbers. Or a plug for
a separate, external readout (like the digi-router, page 25) -wouldn't that be neat!
Source
Sears, www.sears.com. (800) 349-4358, Craftsman Digital Router, Model 17517 , $140.
ECONOMICAL THROUGH DOVETAIL JIG
Forget worrying about limited dovetail jig capacity. The
ChestMate dovetail jig allows cutting through dovetails any-
where on boards of any width. The process is pretty simple. The
jig has an indexing pin that fits liS-in. kerfs sawn in a story stick
that you make: You mark the story stick as you layout the pin
locations on the board and then cut the kerfs. When the story
stick is indexed and clamped onto each workpiece, the saw
kerfs position the jig for each socket and pin.
The jig has dedicated inserts for cutting the sockets and the
pins. You cut the sockets first with a dovetail bit (top photo, at
right). Reposition the story stick on the second board to cut the
pins (bottom photo). Install a straight bit in your router and
the pin insert in the jig. The pin.insert allows adjusting the pin
width to fit the sockets you've already cut. Once you've dialed
in the perfect pin width on a test piece, you're good to go.
To orient the joint with half-pins at the ends, instead of half-
tails as shown, you'll need a longer story stick with kerfs at the
ends of the workpiece.
Routing dovetails with this jig is precise, but it isn't very fast,
because you have to reposition the jig to cut each socket and
pin. For widely-spaced pins, a third routing pass is required to
clean out the waste.
The ChestMate is designed for use with 3/4-in.-thick stock
and routers with 6-in.-dia: bases. Inserts for 14-degree and 7-
degree dovetail bits are included with the jig. You supply the
router bits and guide bushing.
Source
Prazi USA, www.praziusa.com.(8001262-0211.ChestMateDovetaiIJig.PR3900. $99.
Ripsaw Attachment lets you gang
rif? with power feed in a fraction
of the time.
ADD OUR ROUTER ....
SIAJION AND SHAPf
MUlnPl.f SIDES PER PASS!
Add a Woodmaster Router Station to
your Woodmaster Molder/Planer and
you'll shape multiple sides of_your
warkpiece with each pass. Elticienrly
cut T&G Rooring, paneling, and more!
Quick-Change Molding Heodlets you
create custom molding from any stock.
Choose from over 500 patterns!
Power-Feed Drum Sander saves
hours of tedious hand sanding.
Speeds production, improves quality.
Commercial-Duty Thickness Planer
features infinitery variable feed rate. You
choose the right speed for your pro;ect.
SlIape multiple
sides per pass'
Clloose from
500+ PaHerns'
RISK FRII
30-Day
rrial Offer'
Planes Sands Saws
Varia"'e Feed Makes 'lte Difference'
Just a twist of the dial adjusts the Woodmaster from 70 to over 1,000 cuts
per inch. Produces a glass-smooth finish on tricky grain patterns no other planer
can handle. Plenty of American-made "muscle" to handle money-saving,
"straight-from-the-sawmill" lumber. Ideal for high-value curved molding.
IIOur two families make a good living"
- Their business runs on 5 replaced iust 4 bearings,
Woodmaster Molder/Planers 4 springs, and 2 washers.
That's it - they don't
"My,Partner and I own 5 Woodmaster Planers. break. IF you have iust the
One s set up For planing, one For curved Woodmaster and a table
molding, and the others molding. saw, you could make a
do a lot of custo.m woodworking and living making molding.
millwork manuFactUring. Our two Families are
They don't break. making a good living."
Our 778 paid For itselF in 3 months. We've run
over a mil/ion lineal Feet through it and we've
Now, turn a $5.00 rough board into $75.00
worth of high-dollar molding in just minutes.
Make over 500 standard patterns, curved
molding, tongue &groove, picture frame stock,
any custom design. QUICKLY CONVERTS from
Molder/Planer to Drum Sander or power-feed
Multi-Blade Ripsaw. Made in U.S.A. 5-Year Warranty.
Choose from 12", 18" or 25" models.
WELL-EQUIPPED SHOP
Source
Trend Routing Technology, www.trend-
usa.com, (270) 872-4674, T4EK Plunge
Router, $129.
LIGHT DUTY
PLUNGE ROUTER
The T4EK, a compact plunge
router from Trend Routing
Technologies, is equipped with a
1.1-hp motor and electronic vari-
able speed from 11,500 rpm to
32,000 rpm. Other features
include a pressed steel edge
guide, a three-stage turret-style
depth stop, a spindle lock to facil-
itate bit changes and a dust col-
lection housing with a 1-3/8-in.-
dia. hose port. A Trend guide
bushing and an adaptor plate for
Porter-Cable-style guide bushings
are also included.
The T4EK can be used with
several Trend routingjigs, includ-
ing both dovetail jigs and both
ellipsejigs. It can also be removed
from the base and used as a rotary
tool.
Source
Akeda, www.akeda.com. (877) 387-
6544, Akeda BC24 Blanket Chest Jig,
$440; BC24 Jig, 7 pc. Bit Set and
Dust Collector Kit, $499.
LARGER-
CAPACITY AKEDA ..JIG
We gave the 16-in. Akeda dovetail jig our
Editor's Choice award last year because it was pre-
cise and easy to use. Akeda has recently introduced a 24-
in. model, suitable for a blanket chest or other large casework,
using the same clever system of snap-in, indexed guide fingers.
The Akeda DC16 and BC24 jigs excel at creating variable-
spaced half-blind or through dovetails. (Variable-spaced dovetails
generally have wide tails and narrow pins, following the tradition
of hand-cut work.) The guide fingers may be positioned anywhere
along the jig in lI8-in. increments. These jigs offer five different
dovetail angles, from 7 degrees to 20 degrees, for lI4-in. to 3/4-
in.-thick stock. (A new 6-degree bit and pin guide for 1 in. stock
will be available sometime this year.) Why all the choices? Akeda
suggests that dovetails with a wide angle look best in thin stock,
and are stronger, while dovetails with a narrow angle are best used
for thick stock. These angles are produced by using five matched
sets of guide fingers and dovetail bits.
Using the Akeda is very
simple. You don't have to
adjust the jig or do a lot of
trial-and-error cutting to get
the joint to fit right. The key
to this simplicity is a set of
dovetail bits and Porter-Cable-
style guide bushings manufac-
tured by Akeda. Standard bits
and bushings won't work. The
basic jigs do not come with
any bits, however; they're
available in various sets to suit
your needs. Akeda bits have 8
mm shanks, which produce
less vibration than bits with
smaller 1/4-in. shanks. You'll
need a reducer, available from
Akeda, to use them in a 1/2-
in. collet. The dust collection
port, which works very well, is
a $30 accessory.
WELL-EQUIPPED SHOP
ROUTER-TABLE-FRIENDLY
MACHINES
Freud's newest line of routers will make
your router-table setups a lot 'easier: you
can raise, lower, and change bits from
above the table, rather than by reaching
underneath it. These new routers are avail-
able in three packages: a 13-amp, 2-1/4-hp fixed-
base machine, a 2-1/4-hp combination kit contain-
ing interchangeable plunge and fixed bases, and a 15-
amp, 3-1/4-hp plunge router. All of the motors have variable speed;
their bases have openings that can handle bits up to 3-5/8-in. dia.
The plunge router bases have two access holes for above-the-
table adjustments. One allows you to raise and lower the bit; the
other lets you engage a shaft lock when changing bits. You use the
same hex-ended tool for both adjustments and a convenient crank-
handled wrench for loosening and tightening the router's self-
releasing collet. The fixed bases have two holes as well-one for loosening and tightening the motor housing
from the base, the other for raising or lowering the bit. The shaft lock automatically engages when the col-
let is raised above the table. All in all, this is a very clever system, and it works extremely well. (We wish the
hex-ended adjustment tool had a ratcheting mechanism, though!) You'll need to drill additional holes in
your router plate to access the adjustment screws.
Even out of the router table, these routers are easy to adjust. All of them have a micro-adjust knob conve-
niently located near the top of the router; one-quarter turn of the knob varies the bit depth by 1/32-in.
Source
Freud. www.freudtools.com. (800) 334-4107. 2-1/4-hp fixed base router. FT1700,VCEK. $170; 2-1/4 hp combination kit. FT1702VCEK. $200;
3-1/4-hp plunge router. FT3000VCE. $290.
SCREW-SLOT BITS
Source
CMT, cmtusa.com, (888) 268-2487. Flat Head Screw Slotting Bit, 813.601. $37; Washer Head Screw
Slotting Bit. 813.701. $37.
1"
t
Have you ever seen a big, ugly crack in the lid of a
chest? Underneath, you'll probably find a few cleats
running across the grain to hold the lid flat. Chances
are the cleats' screws caused the crack by preventing
the lid from shrinking and swelling with the seasons, It's
a classic mistake.
Two new 1/2-in shank car-
bide bits from CMT offer a
quick way to deal with this wood-
movement problem and many oth-
ers, such as fastening a solid-wood
tabletop to a base. In one operation,
they allow you to plunge-eut a long, coun-
terbored slot for screws to slide back and
forth, which allows solid wood to shrink. and
swell without cracking. One bit is designed for
#8 flat head screws, the other for #8 pan head
screws, plus washers. The bits work in wood up to l-
in. thick.
5
Order your copy today at www.awbookstore.com or call 866-516-1947
FEATURE-PACKED PLUNGE BASE
Porter-Cable's state-of-of-the-art 890-series variable-
speed 2-1/4-hp routers now have a plunge base to
match, The new Model 8931 (it replaces the old model
with the same number) has been completely redesigned.
Machined brass bushings and steel guide rods now
guide the plunge mechanism for smooth operation.
Through-the-column dust collection directs the vacuum
hose up over your shoulder, so it's out of the way. A
swiveling six-position turret allows precise
plunge depth control. An opening in the
base's motor housing provides access to the
router's body-mounted switch, so you can cut
the power without removing your hands
from the pommels.
The 8931 is available separately and in sev-
eral multi-base 890-series router kits.
Source
Porter-Cable, www.deltaportercable.com. (888) 848-5175, Plunge base
Model 8931 $115; Multi-base kits: #893PK (router, plunge base and pom-
mel-handle fixed base), $269; #894PK (router, plunge base and D-handle
fixed base), $289; #895PK (router, plunge base and pommel-handle fixed
base with above-the-table adjustment tool). $289.
WELL-EQUIPPED SHOP
FLOAT THROUGH
YOUR ROUTING TASKS
If you've ever played a game of air hockey,
you'll appreciate how a router might feel float-
ing on a cushion of air. The Betterley Air-Glide
Router Base mounts onto most routers in min-
utes. Even big 3-hp routers glide with ease.
Surface scratches are now a thing of the past.
With the cutter alone providing resistance, the
job of controlling the router is made easier with
the Air-Glide.
We tried the base on edge cU,ts (above) to see
how the base performed when over half the air
jet holes are hanging in thin air. There's still
plenty of lift and the router slid with ease.
Additional subbases are available with different
bit hole diameters including one sized for
Porter-Cable template guides. There's even a
square subbase with an offset hole that gives
you three dimensional steps, lI8-in., IIl6-in.
and 1/32-in. from different edges. This allows
you to make your initial cut followed by a slight
clean-up pass simply by rotating the router.
Note: At a minimum, you need a 5CFM
@90 psi compressor for the Air-Glide to keep
your router afloat.
Sources
Betterley Industries, Inc., www.betterleytools.com. (800) 871-
7516, Air-Glide Router Base. $150; Round Sub-Base. $29;
Square Sub-Base. $49.
AMERICAN
WOODWORKER.
Invites You to
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Show others how you make things work
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Visit www.americanwoodworker.com
for more great tips, techniques and
project stories. While there, sign up for our
FREE American Woodworker Extra e-newsletter.
WE LL-EQU I PPE D SH OP
MULTI-FuNCTION ROUTER BASE
The Router Buddy is a 7-in.-dia. base plate that's
bored to fit most popular routers. It's equipped
with an integral edge guide/circle-cutting jig and a
center hole that's counterbored to accept Porter-Cable
guide bushings. Changing from one operation to another
takes only seconds. The circle-cutting jig routs circles from 2-in.-
dia. to 18-3/8-in.-dia. Install the fence and you've got an edge guide
that allows routing dadoes and grooves up to 8-1/4-in. from the edge of
the workpiece. This setup is compact and light as a feather, so it doesn't
upset the router's balance. Attach the
included half-rounds and you can rout
grooves parallel to rounded edges. The half-
rounds. are also used during installation, to center
the base around the bit shaft.
The Router Buddy System includes extension rods, adjustable pivot
pins and a cross-routed base. It extends the Buddy's versatility by
adding the capacity to cut circles up to 50-in. in diameter and ellipses
up to 58-in. by 46-in. You can vary the difference between major and
minor ellipse axes up to 12 inches.
Source
Practical Technologies, LLC, www.practical-technologies.com:(603) 818-8442,
Router Buddy, $70; Router Buddy System, $200.
SUPER DOVETAIL JIGS
Leigh Industries' SuperJigs present many virtues found on Leigh's legendary D4R dovetailingjig. Available
in 12-, 18- and 24-in. models, there's a Super Jig priced to fit every budget. Super Jigs allow cutting variably-
spaced through and half-blind dovetails, fixed half-blind dovetails in a single pass, sliding dovetails and box
joints. Half-blind dovetail joints can be rabbeted, to create lipped drawer fronts. Quick-action cam clamps
make it easy to install and remove workpieces.
Super Jigs require simple assembly. Plan to spend a while with the owner's manual. It's fully illustrated and
well written, so it's easy to read and understand. Switching from one operation to another requires minor
changes, such as flipping over the guide finger assembly or installing snap-in adaptors-a small price to pay
for the jigs' versatility. A handy pull-out quick-reference set-up guide stores under the jig.
Three router bits and Leigh's new "e-Bush" (left photo, above) are included with each SuperJig. The e-Bush
is an eccentric guide bushing that's used to adjust the fit of sliding dovetail and boxjoints. The SuperJig is shown
above with the vacuum and router support (VRS) installed. An added-eost accessory we recommend, the VRS
corrals dust and adds front support that will keep your router from tipping.
Source
Leigh Industries Ltd, www.leighjigs.com. (800) 663-8932, Super Jig 12, $219; Super Jig 18, $299; Super Jig 24, $369; VRS (vacuum router
support), $72-$84, depending on jig size
AS EASY TO USE AS IT IS TO BUILD.
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ometimes, less really is more.
~ e router tables for instance.
It's not at all difficult to ring up a
big tab for a manufactured router table,
complete with a new router, loaded
with convenience, durability, adjustabil-
ity and precision. But to me, the com-
pelling thing about a router table is that
it converts a portable power tool into a
stationary power tool and thus expands
its utility and versatility.
A router table can be simple and
quite inexpensive to make without sac-
rificing functionality. A basic table can
be just as versatile, accurate and easy to
use as one of those grandees but cost
far less.
I just finished making a $100 router
table (excluding the router). I bought
most of the materials and hardware at a
local home center. There's no router
mounting plate to buy; the router
attaches directly to the hinged top.
FEATURE-PACKED
Despite the low cost, this is no bare
bones router table. It's packed with
great features: an easy-to-adjust zero-
clearance fence with sacrificial faces, an
offset router mounting that allows you
to use more of the table for work sup-
port, table inserts to accommodate dif-
ferent bit sizes, a tilt-top for easy access
to the router and quick bit changes
(even with a plunge router), and built-
in dust collection.
Of course there's a host of possible
enhancements to the basic $100 router
table including enhanced dust collec-
tion below the table, a front-mounted
switch, and even bit storage. All these
add-ons are covered at the end of the
article.
BUILD THE BASE
1. Cut the leg blanks (E, Fig. A, page
42) oversize from 2x6lumber that's been
seasoned in your shop for two weeks or
more.
2. Cut 3-degree compound miters on
the tops and bottoms of the legs. All the
cuts are made with the head tilted 3-
degrees. Divide the legs into 2-pairs con-
sisting of one front and one back leg.
3. Cut the plywood panels (F-H). First,
crosscut a 30-3/4-in. piece from a sheet of
plywood: Rip it into a 19-in.-wide piece
for the bottom, a 13-in. wide piece for the
back apron, and a 16-in.-wide piece for
the side aprons. Crosscut the side-aprons
piece in half.
4. Tilt the tablesaw blade 3-degrees and
cut a bevel on all four edges of the bot-
tom panel, reducing it to its final length
and liB-in. shy of its final width.
5. Glue a strip of solid wood (J) to the
front edge of the bottom panel. Trim
flush after the glue's dried.
6. Return the t b l e s ~ blade to 90-
degrees and set the miter gauge to 3-
degrees. Cut the tapered ends on the side
and back panels.
7. Layout marks for biscuit slots orr the
ends of the side and back aprons. Align
the legs with the aprons and transfer the
marks.
8. Layout biscuit slots on the bottom
shelf and transfer them to the bottom
edge of the aprons.
9. Cut the biscuit slots. Set the joiner's
fence to 87-degrees to slot the beveled

I
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1 1/4" x2"
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BOLT
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2-114"
DIA.
DETAIL 1
CLAMP BLOCK
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CARRIAGE
BOLT
42 American Woodworker
I spent less than
three days and $100
on this full-featured
router table.
MARCH 2008
1
Glue and clamp the two side assemblies. Use the offcuts
from tapering the aprons as cauls so the clamps have
parallel surfaces to address.
2
Glue and clamp the side assemblies to the back apron
and bottom shelf. Use the tapered cauls to keep the
clamps from slipping as they're tightened.
3
Mark the locations of the ro'uter mounting screws on the
top with a transfer punch-a.k.a. a spotter. ,
edges of the bottom panel.
10. Glue and" clamp the two side assemblies
together (Photo 1) as well as the back and bottom
panel assembly.
1l.Join the two leg assemblies to the back and bot-
tom panel assembly (Photo 2). Use masking tape to
attach the tapered scraps from the panels to the legs
so clamps will have parallel bearing surfaces.
BUILD THE TABLETOP
12. Cut the tabletop panel (A). Chamfer all four
edges, top and bottom, to minimize chipping.
13. Layout the bit hole location on the top (Fig.
A.). Install a V-groove bit and park the router with
the bit on the penciled crosshair. Orient the router
exactly the way you want it-handles side-to-side,
front-to-back, or on a diagonal. Mark the center
points for the mounting screws (Photo 3).
14. Drill and countersink the mounting holes in
the top. Mount the router to the tabletop.
15. Cut the support frame parts (B, C and D). Cut
rabbets in the ends of the fro'nt and back pieces.
16. Dry assemble the frame on the tabletop. Use
your router base to determine the'spacing between
the stretchers. Layout the dadoes and rabbets in
the front and back frame members as well as the
cutout in the front.
17. Machine the front and back rails. Then
assemble the frame on a surface you know is flat.
18. Drill 1/4-in. holes though the frame edges.
Set the frame on the tabletop and transfer the hole
locations to the tabletop (Photo 4).
19. Drill and tap stopped holes in the MDF for
1/4" - 20 machine screws (Photo 5). Threaded MDF
has better holding power than wood screws driven
into pilot holes.
20. Mount the tabletop to the frame (Photo 6).
You could glue the frame, but if you ever changed
routers, you'd need to build a new top.
21. Drill the holes for the hinge bolts in the
frame (Photo 7, Fig. A). Cut threads in the rest bolt
holes for 1/4" -20 bolts,
22. Set the top on the stand. Use'shims between
the top edge of the stand and the MDF top. This
keeps the top floating above the stand so all the
weight from the top is carried by the framework
underne,ath,
23. Transfer the hinge bolt holes from the top
frame to the back legs of the stand. Drill the hinge-
bolt holes through the back legs (Photo 8). Install
the hinge bolts and rest bolts.
24. Mount the stay to hold the top open (Photo 9
and 10).
4
Transfer the mounting-bolt holes in the framework to the
MDF top using a transfer punch.

STRETCHER
6
Reposition the frame on the tabletop and fasten it with
1/4"-20 flathead machine screws. I used seven 3-in.- long
screws in the perimeter frame members and two 2-in.- long
screws in the stretchers.
8
Drill hinge holes through the back legs. Tape 3/4-in. shims
to the top edges of the stand and rest the tabletop on
them. Use a transfer punch to mark the hinge-bolt hole loca-
tions on the back legs, then drill.
5
Cut threads in the top with a 1/4"-20 tap. Use a 13/64-in.
bit to drill a 5/8-in. deep stopped hole at each mark, first.
Make sure you clear all the chips from the holes. Then turn
the tap into the hole until it bottoms out.
7
Lay out and drill the two 3/8-in. hinge-bolt holes in the
frame. Clamp a backup scrap to the inside of the frame
to prevent blowout.
9
Mount the folding stay to the stand first. Measure down
1-in. from the stand's top edge and scribe a line. Hold the
folded stay on the line so it clears the front leg and mark the
screw location.
1O
Attach the stay to the top. Hold the stay in posi-
tion with a clamp. You decide the degree of tilt
that suits you.
11Glue and clamp the base and fixed face together.
12
Bore a 2-1/4-in. hole through the dust pickup housing
block with a Forstner bit or holesaw.
BUILD THE FENCE
25. Cut the fence base (K) and fixed face (L).
26. Cut the bit opening in the two fence
pieces with a Forstner bit or a holesaw. From the
near edge, saw into the hole, transforming it
into a U-shaped notch.
27. Assemble the base and fence. Glue the
edge of the base to the upright's face (Photo 11).
28. Round off the outside corners at the ends
of the fence face and base on a bandsaw, then
sand smooth.
29. Cut and glue-laminate scraps of hard-
wood to form the dust-pickup block (N).
30. Bore a 2-1/4-in. hole through the block
(Photo 12).
31. On the bandsaw, cut a U-shaped hole and
the outside profile of the block. Sand the sawed
surface smooth.
32. Cut the dust pickup's cap (P). Bore a hole
to fit your dust collector hose. Glue the cap to
the dust pickup and the pickup to the fence
(Photo 13).
33. Square the face of the fence to the base
on ajointer (Photo 14).
34. Layout the two clamp jaws on some scrap
(Q) (Fig. A, Detail 1) and cut on the bandsaw.
Sand the faces and edges.
35. Layout and drill mounting bolt holes in
the fence base and the clamp jaws (Fig. A).
36. Drive a round head or pan head screw
into the clamp jaws near the bolt hole to act as
an alignment screw. Drill oversize holes for the
bolts in the fence base and add a shallow hole to
house the alignment screw head (Photo 15).
37. Make the sliding facings (M) from pieces
of leftover MDF. Cut faces to size, then use your
new router table to rout stopped slots for the
mounting bolts (Photo 16).
38. Drill mounting holes for the adjustable
facings in the fence (Fig. A).
39. Use your largest bit to rout the opening in
the tabletop. Cut a narrow rabbet around the
opening, so its depth matches the thickness of
the material you use for the inserts.
40. Cut one insert that fits nice and snug, and
use it as a pattern for routing out a half-dozen
more. When you put a hole in an insert, label its
diameter.
BELOW-THE-TABLE DUST COLLECTION
CAPTURES FUGITIVE DUST
Capturing all the chips and dust generated by router-table opera-
tions is a tough proposition. A fence-mounted pickup is important,
but without a pickup under the table,
a lot of the dust will escape capture.
You can use the support frame's
stretchers as the basis of a very
effective dust chute. Make a two-
piece cover from scraps of MDF or
plywood. Insert rounded baffles to
close off corners where dust gets
trapped. Fit the caps as close as pos-
sibl around the router base and drill
a hole for a dust-hose connector
(Photo A).
Extend a hose from this under-the-
table channel and splice it into the
hose from the fence-mounted pickup
with a wye fitting. Leave enough
slack in the hose to permit tilting the tabletop (photo B).
Enhancement 2 -;-'t'
-4.>-",
EXTERNAL SWITCH ADDS
SAFETY AND CONVENIENCE
Powering up a table-mounted router with the router
switch is usually a nuisance. And many of us are uneasy
about fumbling for an out-of-sight switch in an emer-
gency. So a front-mounted switch is a worthwhile addi-
tion to any router table (see Sources, p. 47). I wired the
switch to an extension cord. The cord wrap is made
from hardwood scraps.
CONVENIENT ONBOARD
BIT STORAGE
Bit storage is a practical addition to the table, and
there's enough plywood left to construct a small
box for two or three drawers. The drawer fronts
require an additional 4-ft. piece of 1-in. x 4-in. oak.
The drawer bottoms are 1/4-in. plywood and are cut
wide enough to fit in slots cut in the box sides.
Two drawers have the bottoms drilled for 1/2-in.
and 1/4-in. shank bits; together they'll accommo-
date about 80 bits. The top drawer holds wrenches,
collets, bit-opening inserts, and other accessories. It
is exposed when the tabletop is tilted up for easy
access during bit changes. .
13
Glue and clamp the dust pickup to the fence. Tape
'- scrap across the openings in the face to provide a
bearing for the clamps.
14
Joint the glued-up fence to square the face to the
base. Joint the base surface first to flatten it, then
joint the fence face with the base against the jointer fence.
I"
DENT
CLAMP
( JAW
ALIGNMENT
SCREW
1
hDril1 a
V stopped
hole in the fence
base that will
hold the align-
ment screwhead
and keep the
clamp block
aligned perpendi-
cular to the table-
top. To mark the
hole, tighten the
clamp block in
place so the
alignment screw-
head dents the
base.
16
use the fence to cut the countersunk grooves in the
adjustable faces.

Overall Dimensions: 24" Dx 36" Wx 34-1/2"H
'.
Part Qtv. Dimensions Material
A Tabletoo 1 3/4" x 24" x 36" MDF
B Frame front/back 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 27-1/2" hardwood
C Frame ends 2. 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 17-1/8" hardwood
D Stretchers 2 3/4" x 1-3/4" x 17-1/8" hardwood
E Leas 4 1-1/4" x 2-1/4" x 33" 2x6
F Side aorons 2 3/4" x 16" x 15-3/16" olvwood
1
G Back apron 1 3/4" x 13-1/8" x 29-3/16" nlvwood
1
H Bottom 1 3/4" x 18-15/16" x 29-3/16" plvwood
2
J Edae band 1 3/4" x 1/4" x 29-3/16" 2 x 6
3
K Fence base 1 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 42" hardwood
L Fixed face 1 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 42" hardwood
M Slidina faces 2 3/4" x 4" x 24" MDF
N Dust pickup block 3 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" hardwood
4
p
Dust oickuo caD 1 1/4" x 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" 1/4-in. MDF
Q Clamp iaws 2 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" 2 x 6
3
Sources:
Home Centers, 1/4 sheet of 3/4" MDF, $8; 1 sheet 3/4" plywood,
$33; one 2 x 6 x 8' studs, $4; 14.25 lineal feet of 1 x 3 red oak,
$19; 8 linear feet of 1 x 4 reci oak, $16;; 1/4" x 3" flathead stove
bolts (7 req.), $3; 1/4" x 2" flathead stove bolts (2 req.). $1; 1/4"x2"
connector bolts (4 req.), $4; 1/4" x 1-1/4" fender washers (4 req.).
$1; 1/4" wing nuts (4 req.), $1; 3/8" x 3" carriage bolts (2 req.I, $1,
3/8"cut washers (4 req.I, $0.50; 3/8" stop nuts (2-req.), $1; folding
support, National # N208-11jV1890L, $3; 3/8" x 3-1/2" carriage
bolts (2 req.), $1; 3/8" xl 1/4" fender washers (2 req.l, $0.25; 1/4" x
2" cap screws (4 req.), $4.
Woodcraft, www.woodcraft.com (800) 225-1153, Wing Knobs (2
req.). #85J94, $4.
Optional Upgrades:
Switch Jet, www.jettools.com.click on "Shop Parts", switch
#994542 , $26; switch box, #523028, $4; strain relievers, #998654,
(2 req.I, $4.
Hardware Store, 12/4 extension cord, $12.
Dust Co(lection Woodcraft, www.woodcraft.com (800) 225-1153,
2-1/2" x 10' hose with 2 end fittings, #128689, $16;
2 -1/2" V-fitting, #144282, $4; 2-1/2-in. end fitting, $3.
Bit Storage 3/4" plywood parts cut from leftover material
1/4"plywood for drawer bottoms, 3/4" oak for drawer fronts
1 Miter ends at 8r
2 Bevel edges at 3
3 Cut from scrap
4 Stack and glue
....
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Illli/dl'f LllII'ie McKichan

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QUIET BEAUTY COMES
FROM SUBTLE DETAILS
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designed this display cabinet to be a versatile, understated piece that will fit comfortably
into a variety of interiors. The cabinet claims little more than a square foot of floor
space, but will hold numerous objects on glass shelves. The back is quickly reversible
(see photo below), giving collectors different presentation options. Simple, rectilinear geom-
etry frames and displays objects without competing for attention. The linear nature of rib-
bon stripe sapele veneers. enhances the verticality of the piece. The built-up sides and top give
the piece a sense of increased mass.
. The cabinet is constructed using knockdown (KD) fittings-it will break down, pack flat
and move or store easily. The structural core of the piece, a torsion box base.with leveling feet,
ensures that the cabinet reassembles consistently and will stand square and plumb on any
floor surface.

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BASE ASSEMBLY
1. Cut the torsion box parts (AI-A3). Layout the rib
positions on the top and bottom panels and assemble
with brads and glue (Photo 1). I use polyurethane glue
here because it does not require much clamp pressure.
2. Cut the base panel (A4) and veneer with sapele (VI)
on both sides (see "Veneer The Panels", page 53). Use
scrap veneer for the underside where it won't be seen.
3. Locate the base panel so it overhangs the torsion box
by lI8-in. on all four sides and mark the outline on the
shelf. Clip the heads from four small brads and set them
point-up in predrilled holes inside the marked corners on
the base panel. Align and press the torsion box onto the
brads before gluing. This will locate the shelf during glue-
up, and resist slippage as clamps or weight is applied.
4. Glue the bottom panel to the torsion box (Photo 2).
5. Cut the baseboards (AS and A6) and run a stopped
groove on the top edge of the back baseboard to accept
the back panel flange (Fig. A, Detail 1, page 52). Ease the
outside edge of the groove slightly to make panel inser-
tion easier.
6. Miter the baseboard to fit around the base panel.
7. Cut biscuit slots to join the baseboard to the base
panel (Photo 3) and to reinforce the baseboard miters.
Position the slots so the baseboards are slightly higher
than the top of the panel.
8. Glue and clamp the baseboard to the panel (Photo 4).
9. Clean up glue squeeze-out, and plane the base-
The back panel has a light colored
maple veneer on one side and dark
Macassar ebony on the other. The
panel is secured at the top by rare
earth magnets so the panel can be
reversed in seconds.
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FIGURE A EXPLODED VjEW
The cabinet base is built around a flat and struc-
turally rigid Baltic birch torsion box with leveling
feet. The glass shelves are supported on shop-
made aluminum shelf pins. The long pins sus-
pend the shelves, which are the same width as
the veneered portion of the back panel, so they
appear to float in the cabinet.
C4
C2
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FIGURE C
SHELF PLACEMENT
Drill 1/4-in. holes for the
shelf pins. You can drill a
series of holes for adjusta-
bility if you like, but the
cabinet looks best with
just enough holes to sup-
port each shelf.
The spacing grows by
an inch for each shelf
from bottom to top. I
think the impulse would
be to space the shelves
with the tallest opening at
the bottom (like a chest of
drawers). For thisdisplay
cabinet. I like the tall
opening at the top,
because it puts the
largest display area at eye
level, and it balances the
mass of the plinth-like
base at the bottom.
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RABBET

50 Amel;can Woodworker MARCH 2008
_.
6
RiP the sides slightly oversize. Brad-
nail a straightedge on the side to
guide the first cut, then remove the
straightedge and rip the opposite edge.
2
Glue the torsion box onto the base
panel. Clip the heads off of brads
and set them point up in holes in the
panel. The brads keep the parts from
shifting under clamp pressure.
4
Clamp the baseboard to the base
panel. Clamp pads made by gluing
corner blocks to strips of plywood pull
the miters tight. Use slow setting glues
like Titebond III or Extend to ease the
time pressures on the glue-up.
3
Cut biscuit slots in the base panel
and the baseboard. The baseboard
attaches to the shelf and floats free of
the torsion box to allow for seasonal
wood movement.
5
Assemble the side panels with glue'
and a brad nailer. Spacers add
thickness to the sides and are posi-
tioned to support the panel when
pressed for veneering.
1
The display cabinet is built on and
arounda simple but strong torsion
box. Use weight to clamp the top and
bottom onto the web. Check for square
before the glue sets.
VENEER
THE PANELS
Note: If you can't find veneer wide
enough to cover the panel, you'll have
to seam it down the middle. If that is
the case, try to order veneer that is
SIDE AND TOP
PANEL
CONSTRUCTION
13. Rough cut panels (Bl and C1)
about 1/2-in. oversize.
14. Glue-up the panels with spacers
(B2, B3, C2 and C3) to create the thick
sides and top (Photo 5). Pin the parts
in place first with a brad nailer to keep
them from skating under pressure. Use
weight to clamp the panels.
15. Trim the panels square on the
tablesaw (Photos 6 and 7).
16. Drill three shallow holes for the
rare earth magnets across the back edge
of the top panel and about 1-I/2-in. in
from either end (Fig. A.).
17. Apply the top and bottom edging
(B5) to the side panels and the front
and back edging (C4) to the top panel
then plane flush.
18. Rip the side panels to final width,
making a cut on each edge to leave the
end caps perfectly flush with the sides.
19. Cut the top panel to final length
in the same manner.
20. Apply the front and back edge
bands (B4, B6) on the side panels last
to hide the end grain of the top and
bottom edge bands. Applying the edge
bands before veneering creates a seam-
less looking panel.
21. After the panel is veneered, cut
the rabbet at the back inside edge of
the sides panels (Fig. A, Detail 3, page
52). Add trim pieces (B7) to the rabbet.
boards flush with the base panel and
with one another.
10. Cut a small rabbet along the bot-
tom of the baseboard (Fig. A, Detail 1)
to create a shadow line at the floor and
lighten the visual mass of the base.
11. Locate and drill the holes for the
threaded inserts in the base to accept
the levelers (Fig. A, Detail 2, page 52).
The threaded insert should be set
under an outside rib.
12.. Drill holes in the base for the
confirmat screws (Fig. A, Detail 2).
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crosscut the ends of the side panel.
Use a sled or miter gauge with a
long fence.
8
cut the seam where two veneers will
join with a veneer saw. The veneer saw
is designed to cut with several pull
strokes. Lay the veneers face-to-face and
hold them down with a straightedge as
you cut.

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JOint the two sawn veneer edges
with a plane. Clamp the veneer
face- to-face between two boards so it
protrudes about 1/8-in. Then make a
few light passes with the plane.
FIG. A DETAIL 1 BACK To BASE
Note: Stop the groove
1-7/8-in. from either
end of the back base-
board (A6)
FIG. A DETAIL 3 BACK To SIDE
A6
e 1/4" X 1/4"
REVEAL
FIG. A DETAIL 2 BASE CUTAWAY
3/8"
THREADED
INSERT
A4
Ai
3/4" ACCESS HOLE FOR
CONFIRMAT SCREW
---------
15
Mending plates are placed in the
upper flange so magnets in the
cabinet can hold the back in place. Add
filler strips to encase the mending
plates and fill the groove.
11
Apply glue on the substrate only
and lay down the veneer. A'
small roller works well to spread the
glue quickly and evenly.
13
clamp the back panel's ebony
string detail with masking tape.
The ebony comes in short lengths so
butt-join the pieces end-to-end.
12
Use a commercial jig to locate
and drill holes for the knock-
down fittings between the top shelf
and sides.
14
use a thin kerf blade to cut a
groove in the back's upper
flange. Featherboards and push sticks
are a must for this operation.
1O
Tape the two veneers together
with veneer tape. Solid, non-per-
forated tape works well as it can be
stretched slightly when it is applied.
This helps pull the two pieces together.
slightly over half the finished width.
22. Cut the veneers (V2 and V3) to
length and width with a straightedge
and a veneer saw (Photo 8). For each
seam, fold the faces against each other
and cut them together. This creates a
perfect l80-degree edge when the two
leafs are unfolded.
23. Joint the sawn edges of the
veneers with a plane (Photo 9).
24. Hold the veneer together with
veneer tape (Photo 10). Tape every two
inches perpendicular to the seam.
Then add a long piece over the entire
seam.
25. Apply glue in an even coat to the
substrate and lay down the veneer
(Photo 11). Specialized veneering
glue, such as Titebond's Cold Press for
Veneer, has a ~ n r o u s open time and
is mixed with wood flour to minimize
bleed through.
26. Prepare the panels for pressing
by laying kraft paper over the veneer to
absorb glue squeeze-out. Next add 3/4-
in. MDF platens under and over the
panels to help distribute clamping
pressure.
Note: In a vacuum press, the top plat-
en should not overhang the substrate
by more than l/2-in. or it will lever up
as the bag draws down and create areas
of insufficient pressure.
27. Press the veneer onto the panels
with a vacuum bag or by using platens
with cross beams and clamps.
28. Trim the overhanging veneer with
a router and a flush-cutting router bit..
29. Remove the veneer tape with a
gentle sanding or dampen the tape and
peel it off.
Note: Wait overnight before dampen-
ing to make sure the glue is fully cured.
30. Layout and drill the holes for the
shelf pins (Fig. C, page 50), the thread-
ed inserts (Fig. A, Detail 2) and the KD
fittings at the top (Fig. A, Detail 4, page
55). Use ajig to locate and drill the KD
fitting holes (Photo 12). Install the
inserts and the KD fittings.
Note: KD fasteners are designed for
very tight installation tolerances. Mock
up the assembly and get the layout right
before proceeding to the finished piece.
16
Glue the top and bottom flanges
into the back first. Clamp
dummy side flanges tight against the
bottom of the side grooves to position
the top and bottom flanges.
18
Crosscut the shelf pin blanks
using a carbide blade and a slow
feed rate. Secure the rod in a cut-off jig
with two hold-down clamps. Place a
stop at the desired length.
20
To assemble the cabinet, start
by attaching the two sides to the
top.
17
Rout flats on aluminum rod to
create the shelf pins. Carbide
bits can cut aluminum with ease. A
1/4-in. deep V-groove in the jig holds
the rod steady under the clamps.
19
Smooth and polish the shelf
pins with a mill file, sandpaper
and steel wool.
21
Thread a confirmat screw
through the torsion box holes to
attach the base to the sides. It helps to
magnetize the wrench by rubbing it
with a rare earth magnet first.
BACK PANEL
CONSTRUCTION
31. Cut the MDF panel (Dl) and apply
the top edge band (D2) first. Cut and
plane the edge band flush to the panel
and apply the side edge bands (D3).
32. Seam and press veneer (D6) and
trim flush.
33. Cut a liS-in. x liS-in. rabbet
around the perimeter on both sides of the
back. Glue the top and bottom ebony
stringing (D9) on oversize (Photo 13). Do
one side at a time, then plane flush. Apply
the side stringing (DI0) last.
Note: It's hard to find Gabon ebony long
enough for the height of the back panel.
Shorter pieces can be buttjoined in place.
The dark wood disguises the joints.
34. Cut a groove centered on all four
edges of the back panel (Fig. A, Detail 5,
page 55) to accept the back flanges.
35. The top flange (D4) on the back has
metal mending plates buried inside for the
rare earth magnets to grab onto. Use a
thin kerf blade on the tablesaw to cut a
groove along the top edge of the flange
(Photo 14).
36. Insert the mending plates and glue
in filler strips (D7 and DS) to hold the
plates in place (Photo 15).
37. Glue the flanges (D4 - D6) into the
groove on the back panel. Glue the top
and bottom flanges in first (Photo 16).
Glue on the side flanges last.
SHELF PINS
3S. To make the shelf pins, create a
small flat on a length of 1/4-in. aluminum
rod with a carbide-tipped straight bit
(Photo 17).
39. Cut the shelf pins to length (Photo
IS).
40. File or sand the machined edges
smooth (Photo 19).
FINISH UP
41. Sand to 220-grit and finish the cabi-
net with oil, shellac, varnish or lacquer.
42. Attach the top shelf to the sides
(Photo 20).
43. Attach the base to the sides with the
confirmat screws (Photo 21).
44. Stand the cabinet up and adjust the
feet to plumb the cabinet. Insert the pins
and shelves, and you're ready to go.
1/4" x 1/4"
GROOVE
FIG. A DETAIL 4 Top KD FiniNG FIG. A DETAIL 5 BACK/TOP CUTAWAY
SOURCES:
Rockier, www.rockler.com
18001 279-4441, Threaded
Inserts 1 pack of 8, #31872,
$5; Levelers, 1 pack of 4,
#32498, $3; Connector Bolts,
1 pack of 8, #31849, $4;
Minifix KD Fittings, 1 pack of
8,#22161, $6; 8mm Brad
Point Bit, #26406, $5; 8mm
Stop Collar, # 93237, $3;
15mm Forstner Bit, #21249,
$8; 10mm Stop Collar,
#93253, $3; Brown Caps,
#30676, $1; Minifix Jig-It
Template, #92114, $30; Rare
Earth Magnets, 1/8" x 1/2"
1pack of 10, #30810, $7;
1itebond Cold Press for
Veneer, #31844, 1-qt, $9.
Certainly Wood, www.certain-
Iywood.com 17161655-0206,
Rotary Cut Bird's Eye Maple, 6
sq. ft @$9/ sq. ft, $54;
Macassar Ebony, 6 sq. ft @
$7/sq.ft, $42; Quartered
Sapele, 29 sq. ft @$1/ sq. ft,
$29.
Tropical Exotic Hardwoods,
www.anexotichardwoood.com
(888) 434-3031, Gabon Ebony,
2-lbs. @$5/lb., $10; 4/4
Sapele, 6 bd. ft@ $10/ bd. ft,
$60.
Home Centers, 1 sheet of 3/4-
in.MDF, $30; 1/2-in x 2-1/2-in.
mending plates (4 req.), $5.
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ItOverllllQimenSiQnS; 70:
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,H x 17" Lx 10-3/4"0
Part Name . Qty. Dimensions (Th xWx L) Material
Base
A1 Torsion Box Top/Bottom 2 1/2" x 9" x 14-1/4" 1/2" Baltic Birch
A2 Torsion Box - Front/Back 2 1/2" x 3-1/2" x 14-1/4" 1/2" Baltic Birch
A3 Torsion Box Sides/Ribs 4 1/2" x 3-1/2" x 8" 1/2" Baltic Birch
A4 Base Panel 1 3/4" x 9-1/4" x 14-1/2" * MOF
A5 Baseboard Front/Back 2 3/4" x 6" x 16" Solid Sapele
A6 Baseboard Sides 2 3/4" x 6" x 10-3/4" Solid Sapele
Side Panels
I
B1 Side Panels 4 3/4" x 9-3/4" x 63-3/4" * MOF
B2 Spacers - Lonq 4 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 63-3/4" Poplar
B3 Spacers - Short 8 1/4" x" 1-1/2" x 6-3/4" Poplar
B4 Edae bandina - Front 2 1/8" x 1-3/4" x 64" Solid Sapele
B5 Edqe bandinq - Top/Bottom 4 1/8" x 1-3/4" x 9-3/4" Solid Sapele
B6 Edae bandina - Back 2 1/8" x 1-1/8" x 64" Solid Sapele
B7 Edqe bandinq - Rabbet 4 1/8" x 5/8" x 64" Solid Sapele
Top Panel
C1 Top Panel 2 3/4" x 9-1/4" x 11" * MOF
C2 Spacers-Lonq 2 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 11" Poplar
C3 Spacers-Short 2 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 6-1/4" Poplar
C4 Edqe bandinq 4 1/8" x 2" x 11" Solid Sapele
Back Panel
01 Back Panel 1 3/4" x 9-3/4" x 60-3/4" MOF
02 Edqe band - Top/Bottom 2 1/8" x 3/4" x 9-3/4" Solid Sapele
03 Edae band - Sides 2 1/8" x 3/4" x 61" Solid Sapele
04 Flanqe - Top 1 1/4" x 2-5/8" x 9-1/2" Solid Sapele
05 Flanqe - Bottom 1 1/4" x 1" x 9-1/2" Solid Sapele
06 Flanae - Side 2 1/4" x 1-3/8" x 64-3/8" Solid Sapele
07 Fill Strip 1 3/32" x 5/8" x 7-1/2" Solid Sapele
08 Fill Strip Ends 2 3/32" x 1-1/8" x 1" Solid Sapele
09 Ebony Strinqinq - Top/Bottom 2 1/8" x 1/8" x 9-3/4" Gabon Ebony
010 Ebony Strinaina - Sides 2 1/8" x 1/8" x 61" Gabon Ebony
Veneer
if
V1 Base Panel 2 9-114" x 14-1/2" * 'Sapele
V2 Side Panels 4 10" x 64" * Sapele
V3 Top Panel 2 9-1/2" x11" * Sapele,
V4 Back Panel 2 10" x 61" * Bird's Eye Maple &
Macassar Ebony
Misc.
,
E1 Shelf Pins I 20 1/4" x 1-3/4" I 1/4" Aluminum Rod
E2 Glass Shelves
I 5 I 3/8" x 8-3/4" x 10" I Plate Glass
* Cut oversize to allow for trimming
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THE COUNTRY'S
LARGEST
WOODWORKING
COMPETITION
CELEBRATES ITS
27TH YEAR.
Three hundred and fifty entries,
$20,000 in prize money, and a
three-week run. Those eye-open-
ing numbers give you a brief taste
of Design in Wood, a huge show
sponsored by the San Diego Fine
Woodworkers Association
(SDFWA). It's being held during
the San Diego County Fair at the
Del Mar Fairgrounds in Del Mar,
California, frorn Saturday, June 14,
to Sunday, July 6, 2008.
The SDFWA is,the nation's
largest woodworking association,
with over 1,400 members. They
sponsor Design in Wood each
year, and the caliber of entries just
gets better and better, as you can
see from these photos of recent
prize winners. The competition is
open to all woodworkers, with
awards given in 21 categories that
recognize the enormous breadth
of skill and talent among SDFWA
members. The awards include Art
Furniture, Clocks, Model Building,
Laminated/ Segmented Wood
Turning, Marine Animal Wood
CaNing and Intarsia-something
for everybody.
Entry forms for the show will
be available in early March 2008.
Entries can be made online at
www.sdfair.com. The deadline for
entering the show is Friday, May
2. For more information about the
show, contact Bob Stevenson,
Exhibition Coordinator, at
(619) 422-7338, or email Bob at
bobscww@cox.net.
DAN LEAF
eSI
In
outer
FLATTENING WIDE BOARDS
A huge, wide board makes a stunning tabletop. If it won't fit through
your planer, flattening that board can be a lot of hard work. You
could use a belt sander, but it's much easier to use your router.
To get started, you'll need a large, flat surface. such as a big
workbench or a hollow-core door. Lay the board on the
bench and place shims underneath the board so it won't
rock. Next, mill two guide boards about 1-ft. longer than
your workpiece. Screw or clamp them to the bench top
an equal distance apart. Make a sliding carriage for your
router from two 1-in. by 1-in. pieces of aluminum angle.
and fasten them to two cleats.
Install a large-diameter bit in your router and
you're ready to go. Slide the router back and
forth on the carriage, then advance the
carriage down the length of the board.
Two
FEATHERBOARDS
ENSURE ACCURACY
It's best to use two featherboards when cutting narrow
moldings in order to get a straight, smooth cut. However,
it's almost impossible to safely feed the stock all the way
through. The solution: make the molding extra-long and
leave some uncut wood on the end, to serve as a han-
dle. When you've routed as far as possible, turn off the
router, remove the piece and cut off the handle.
SPONSORED By
Precise.y the best.
STRAIGHT EDGES
WITHOUT A JOINTER
Here's a device for jointing boards using only a router. It's a long straightedge
equipped with clamps for holding a workpiece plus a durable metal edge for
guiding a flush-trim bit. When not in use, it easily stores against a wall.
To make the straightedge, you'll need an 8-ft.-long, 12-in.-wide piece of ply-
wood, such as melamine shelving, an 8-ft.-long piece of 1-in. by 1-in. alu-
minum angle, 8 ft. of T-track, and some commercial clamps made for T-track
or their shop-made equivalents (see Source, below).
Rout the plywood so the T-track and aluminum angle are flush with its sur-
face. Epoxy the T-track into its groove; drill and countersink holes in the angle
so you can screw it to the plywood.
To use the jig, clamp your board so its uneven edge just overhangs the
straightedge, install a bottom-bearing flush-trim bit in your machine, and rout
away.
Source: Kreg, www.kregtool.com. (800) 447-8638, Mini Trak, KMS7506, 4 It. long, $19;
Trak Clamp, KMS7511, $5.
CHiP-FREE BITS
Spiral bits often make a smoother, more accurate cut than straight bits.
An up-cut spiral bit pulls chips up and out, making it perfect for cutting
mortises in solid wood. A down-cut bit pushes chips downward, ideal
for making chip-free dados in plywood and melamine. (Down-cut bits
are not recommended for use in a router table, however, because they
can push the workpiece up off the table.) A compression bit has spirals
running both ways, up and down, pulling chips toward the middle of
the bit. It's the best bit for routing the edges of plywood or
melamine-you'll get a chip-free surface on both sides.
A BETTER WAY
TO CUT SMALL
MOLDINGS .
It's hard to keep thin or narrow stock
from chattering while its being cut on
the router table. For narrow strips such
as this bead molding, it's safer and
easier to rout the profile on a wide
board (Photo 1), then
cut off the shaped
edge on the
tablesaw
(Photo 2).
....
FOUR DADO SIZES
WITH ONE BIT
Here's a custom-made baseplate
that saves setup time. Using just
one bit, you can make four differ-
ent dados.
Each side of the baseplate is pro-
gressively 1/16-in. farther away
from the bit. You make one cut at
the "0" setting, then rotate the
router and baseplate to enlarge the
dado. For example, if you use a
1/2-in. bit, you can also make
9/16-in., 5/8-in., and 11/16-in. wide
cuts. Alternatively, you can make
the baseplate
with 1/32-in
or 1/64-in.
progressions
for fitting
undersized
plywood into
dados.
Making the
baseplate
requires
accurate lay-
out. It's best
to make it
slightly over-
sized at first
and mount it
on your
router. Nibble
away at its
edges on the
tablesaw until
the dimen-
sions are per-
fect.
SHAPE THICK
PARTS IN
Two STEPS
The best way to
make identical parts
is to use a template
and a top-bearing pat-
tern bit. Most pattern
bits aren't very long,
however, so you might
think that you can't use
one for thick parts. You
can, and here's how:
First, rout the bottom
half of the part (Photo
1). Second, remove the
part from the template
and install a bottom-
bearing flush-trim bit in
your router (Photo 2).
Adjust the bit's height
so its bearing rides on
the surface created by
the pattern bit, and
you're all set.
PERFECT MITER JOINTS
Some contractor-style tablesaws don't do a very good job cut-
ting miters when the blade is tipped over to 45 degrees.
The blade shifts out of alignment just enough to pro-
duce a burnt or out-of-square edge. If you've experi-
enced those problems, try using a chamfer bit,
which always cuts a precise 45-degree angle.
Chamfer bits come in a variety of sizes. Here are a
few tips that will improve your results:
Use your tablesaw or bandsaw to remove most of the
waste before you rout. Your chamfer bit will perform best
when it's only removing a small amount of wood.
Cut your router table's fences to make a zero-clearance open-
ing around the bit. This prevents the workpiece from tipping into
the bit as you cut.
Hold a backerboard behind the workpiece to prevent blow-out.
When you set up your router table,
aim for leaving a point on the
end of the workpiece, with-
out shortening its length.
You may adjust your
fence or the bit's
height to achieve
this result. Either
way, the adjust-
ment should be
very small-but
once you're set,
miters are fast and
easy to cut.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ---------
SQUARE Up A LARGE Top
How do you trim the end of a top that's too large to cross-
cut on the tablesaw? Simple: use a router and a large pat-
tern bit.
Before you rout, use a jigsaw to cut the end of the
top close to its final length. (The less end grain you
rout, the easier the job will be.) Next, find a piece of
plywood or fiberboard that has two adjacent factory
edges. This piece guides the router; the factory edges
guarantee that your top will be square. It should be 2
to 3 in. longer than the width of the tabletop.
Place the guide piece on a pencil line indi-
cating the end of the tabletop. Clamp one
side of the guide piece flush with the long
edge of the top. Clamp a sacrificial block
on the opposite side, tight to the tabletop, to
prevent the end grain from splintering at the
end of the cut.
You can use a standard 1/2-in. flush-trim bit for this technique, but that requires
placing the guide piece under the top, which can be a hassle. A pattern bit makes
setup much easier. You'll get the best results by using a pattern bit that's at least
1-in. dia. It makes a smoother cut in end grain than a bit with a smaller diameter.
RIGID ROUTING SLED
You can't beat a sled and a toggle clamp for
coping the ends of rails and stiles, but many
s l ~ d s have a subtle problem that produce;; a
misaligned joint. The problem is with the base,
which is typically l/4-in. thick. Pressure from
the toggle clamp causes the base to bend,
resulting in a rail that's not evenly aligned with
its mating stile. The answer is to add a board
at the front of the sled, plus two top boards
that bridge over the workpiece. This produces
an absolutely rigid sled, and perfect joints.
CUTTING TENONS ON LONG BOARDS
Let's say you're building a bed or dining table that requires very long
rails. Cutting tenons on those rails can be unwieldy using a tablesaw,
but it's quite easy using a router and a set of parallel guide blocks. The
guide blocks are just two large pieces of wood connected by a pair
of alignment pins.
Cut your rails an inch or two longer than their final length. (The
extra wood will support the router, preventing it from tipping.) Install
a 1/2-in. dia. bit in your router and measure how far it cuts from the
edge of the router's baseplate. Mark the tenons, then clamp the
guide blocks onto the rail. Make sure they're square to the rail and
set back the correct distance from the tenon's shoulder.
You're all set to rout both sides of the rail. Adjust the bit's cutting
depth to 1/16-in. less than the final depth you'll need. Make a pass on
both sides of the board, measure the thickness of the tenon, and grad-
ually lower the bit until the tenon is the correct thickness. To cut the
rest of the tenon's width, unclamp the guide boards, move them closer
to the rail's end, re-c1amp them, and rout another pass. Cut off the
waste when you're done.
RAMP-UP
FOR EASIER STARTS
Next time you make a template for pattern routing, be sure to include
a starting ramp. This provides a safe place for the router bit to contact
the template before it starts cutting. Add an exit ramp on the far end
of the template, too.
PLUG-
TRIMMING ROUTER BASE
Here's a fast' way to level screw-hole plugs. Make a new baseplate
for your router using two pieces of 1/2-in. plywood or fiberboard.
Adjust your router bit so it cuts a paper-thickness above the bottom
of the baseplate, then rout the plugs. To make the plugs absolutely
flush, sand them with a small piece of sandpaper wrapped around a
hard block.
Source: SC Fastening Systems,
scfastening.com (800) 232-2659,
Cone Point Socket Set Screws,
phone for price.
ALIGN HOLES FOR A
NEW BASEPLATE
Additional baseplates for your router
can really come in handy-for span-
ning a wide distance, for example,
or for use as an insert in a router
table. Drilling the screw holes for
fastening the baseplate to your
router is a precision job, though,
particularly if you want the bit to be
located exactly in the center.
Special cone-pointed setscrews
make the job easy (see Source, below).
They come in various thread sizes; to
determine what you need, take your base-
plate screws to the hardware store and match
them with an appropriate nut.
To center your baseplate, draw diagonal lines
from corner to corner and drill a l/4-in. hole where
the lines meet. Chuck a 1/4-in. bit in your router.
Install the pointed setscrews in your router base
and slide the new baseplate over the bit. Tap
the baseplate above each screw to
make a dimple for centering a drill
bit.
i
j
Box FENCE' FOR BIG BITS
A large raised-panel bit should be treated with a certain
amount of respect. Not only do you have to slow your
router way down to reduce the speed of the bit's outer-
most tips, but you've got to watch your fingers, too.
Here's a custom-made fence that ~ make this opera-
tion much less scary.
This fence is really just a large box with a plastic top
and dust port, clamped to your router table. There's a
faceboard attached to the box's front end that is
adjustable up or down. Set it so that it bears down on
your panel, like a featherboard, to produce a smooth cut.
SANDWICH
CLAMP
Use a double-sided template to avoid tearout on a
curved piece. By simply turning the template over and
placing the handles on the other side, you can always
cut downhill, following the wood's grain direction.
No-Fuss MORTISING JIG
Want a dirt-simple mortising jig? This one takes just a few minutes to put together,
not the whole weekend. You'll need a plunge router equipped with an edge guide.
First, clamp a 3- to 4-in.-square block to your bench. Fasten a 5-in.-long stop block
to its side, near one end. Butt your workpiece up to the stop block and clamp your
workpiece to the large block. (A large handscrew is ideal for this job because it has a
deep reach.)
Layout your mortise on the workpiece and adjust the router's edge guide so
the bit cuts within the layout marks. Finally, add two stop blocks on top of the
big block to limit the back-and-forth movement of your router. These
blocks define the mortise's length.
If your mortises are centered,
go ahead and cut all of them.
If they're offset, simply change
the fence setting as needed. Our.
cover shows this jig in action.
This article is sponsored
by Freud Tools. For
more information on the
bits shown here, go to
www.freudtools.com
or call (800) 334-4107.
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by TimJohnson
M
itered corner joints define
most picture frames-but not
these! The Framed Frame (top right) goes
together with half-laps, the Magnetic Frame
(middle) employs butt joints and the
Grooved Frame (bottom) is simply edge-
glued. These distinctive frames share anoth-
er common trait-they're routed. All three
frames are made using a router table; the
Framed Frame also requires a small hand-
held router. Most of the routing is done with
different types of straight bits (flush trim pat-
tern bits and a spiral bit). You'll also need a
slot cutter.
You can make anyone of these frames in
less than a day. They're all made from 3/4-
in.-thick boards-at most, you'll need a cou-
ple board feet per frame. Simple jigs and fix-
tures make each frame a perfect candidate
for making multiples, so they could also be a
great solution for your scrap stock problem.
Framed Frame
T:
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Routing
creates
framed
~
edges more
I
easily than
gluing on
tiny strips.
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T
his frame consists of four
pieces that are identical
except for length (Fig. A).
Each piece has two rabbets for
the half-lap corner joints, one
on each face. The pieces
assemble "elephant" style
(nose-to-tail). The framed
edges are created prior to
assembly, by routing away the
center of each piece, using a
custom-made jig (Fig. B).
You can make a simple ver-
sion of this frame from a sin-
gle piece of solid stock that's
2-in.-wide by 36-in.-Iong. Just
plane it to final thickness and
you're ready to cut the four
pieces. To create the two-tone
version shown here, start with
three pieces of 3/4-in. by 2-in.
by IS-in. stock. Glue the
pieces together with the con-
trasting piece in the middle.
Resaw the blank in half (Photo I).
Then plane the resawn blanks to final
thickness. Each blank contains two
frame pieces, one long side and one
1
Create two-tone blanks for the
frame pieces by resawing a lamina-
tion of 3/4-in.-thick boards. Plane the
cherry faces to 3/16-in. thickness. Then
plane the maple faces until the stock
reaches final thickness.
short side. Cut the four pieces to final
size. Then cut the rabbets on each
piece (Photo 2).
Plane the center-routing jig's solid
I
2
saw rabbets for the half-lap joints
on both ends of each piece. One
rabbet goes on the top face; the other
goes on the bottom face.
wood s p c e r ~ to 9/16-in.-
the same thickness as the
frame pieces. During assem-
bly, center one frame piece
between the side spacers.
The frame piece must fit
snugly. Install the support
block. Then add the guide
pieces, making sure they
overhang the frame piece
equally, by 3/16-in., the
width of the framed edges.
Slide each frame piece into
the jig. After routing and
squaring the corners (Photo
3), use the finger notch to
grip the piece and remove it
from the jig.
Dry-assemble the frame
and mark the inside edges of
each piece. Then use a
su"aight bit to rout rabbets
for the glass (Photo 4 and
Fig. C). Fit one corner joint
at a time when you glue the frame
together (Photo 5). Clamping the
frame between cauls assures a flat
result (a good thing!).
3
create the framed edges by
routing each piece, using
the jig and a mortising bit (at
right). Rout just deep enough
to remove the top layer of
wood. After routing, square
the corners with a chisel.
3/16" x 3/16"
FRAMED EDGE
(TYP.)
LONG SIDE
9/16" x 1-3/4" x 9"
(TYP.)
3/8"-THICK
BIRCH
! n

/ DE-STA-CO 215-U
f <l\\\,. TOGGLE CLAMP
PRO-QUALITY STAND
The EaselMate frame stand screws on in
a minute and can be adjusted to any
angl'e. Available from Albin Products Inc.,
www.albinproducts.com. (800) 225-6821,
$6 for two, $16 for six, $28 for 12.
5
c,amp the joints with spring clamps.
for a couple minutes, until the glue
tacks. Then switch to adjustable clamps
and re-clamp the frame between MDF
cauls, to evenly distribute clamping
pressure across the joints.
BASE
1/2" x 6-3/4" x 11-1/2"
MDF
TOP GUIDE
1/2" x 2-11/16" x 6-3/4" MDF
4
Rout stopped rabbets for the glass.
Create clearance for the glass's
square corners by making the rabbets
extra long. A sled makes the short, nar-
row frame pieces easier to handle.
FIGURE B
CENTER-ROUTING JIG
FIGURE A EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
9/16"TH X 7"W X 9"H
SIDE GUIDE
1/2" x 2-11/16" x
8-13/16" MDF
(TYP.)
Magnetic Frame
T
his frame consists of four
identical corner sections
that assemble around the glass,
photo and back board (Fig. D).
Rare earth magnets hold the sec-
tions together. To make this
frame, you'll need a routing jig
(Fig. E), a pattern and two pieces
of 3/4-in. (or thicker) stock cut to
4-1/16-in. by 4-9/16-in. rectangles.
Build the routing jig first. It's
used to rout the inside edge of
each piece as well as the grooves
that house the photo assembly.
Use the jig to make the pattern.
Saw a 3-1/16-in. by 4-lII6-in.
piece of 1/2-in. MDF into an L-
shape. Install it in the jig and
rout the inside edges with a 1-
in.-dia. pattern bit (a flush-trim
bit with the bearing mounted
above the cutting flutes).
Use the pattern to layout the
frame pieces on the two blanks
(Photo 1). Cut the short legs to
length (Photo 2). Then cut the blanks
apart on the bandsaw, install them in
the jig and rout the inside edges
(Photos 3 and 4). Install a 3/16-in.-
wide slot cutter and rout a
1/2-in. deep slot for the photo
assembly (glass, photo and
back board) in each piece
(Photo 5). The photo assem-
bly provides the frame's struc-
ture, so it must fit the slot
snugly, but without binding.
Size the slot's width to fit the
thickness of your photo assem-
bly (for single-strength glass
and a liS-in. back board, the
slot will be slightly less than
1/4-in.-wide).
Fill the slots to fit the photo
assembly (Photo 6). Before
you glue in the strips, assem-
ble the frame around the
assembly to test the fit. Mter
gluing, flush each strip with
the end. Then drill centered
holes for the rare-earth mag-
nets (Photo 7) and install
them flush with the ends-make sure
to orient the magnets' poles correct-
ly! Secure the magnets with epoxy.
1
Layout two corner sections on each
blank. Make sure the grain runs
across the outside corner. If it runs
toward the corner, as on the blank in
the background, the pieces will be
impossible to rout.
2
cut the short legs to final length
using the miter gauge with a fence
and a stop.
Caution:The blade guard must be
removed for this operation. Be careful!
3
Rout the inside edges with a 1-in.-dia.
pattern bit. Because of the grain's
direction, you can only rout one leg at
a time. Stop before the bit touches the
adjacent leg or disastrous tearout will
occur.
* SIZE SLOTS
AND FILL
STRIPSTO FIT
PHOTO
ASSEMBLY
CENTERED 1/4" DIA. RARE
f EARTH MAGNET (TYP.)
-(J
FILL STRIP 1I4"W*
x 5/16"H x 2-1I4"L
7
Drill holes for the rare earth mag-
nets using a fence and a stop block.
The fence centers the hole between the
faces; the stop block centers it
between the edges.
FIGURE E
JIG FOR ROUTING
INSIDE EDGES
6
Reduce the slots' depth to 3/16-in.
by gluing in fill strips. Leave the
inside corner 1/2-in. deep, to accommo-
date the square corners of the glass.
PHOTO OPENING
3-5/8" x 5-518"
CENTERED SLOT
1/4"W* x 1/2"D 7 ~ : > <
4
FliP the workpiece over to rout the
other leg. Routing into the corner
can still cause tearout, so complete the
job in stages. Rout a bit, flip the work-
piece and rout a bit more. Then repeat
the process.
FIGURE 0
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL
DIMENSIONS:
3/4"TH X 6-1/8"W X 8-1/8"H
5
Rout a centered slot in each piece.
Center the bit by eye. Then make
two passes, one on each face. Rout
halfway, as before, then flip the work-
piece. Once the slot is established, you
can rout against the grain to widen it.
..
Amel;can Woodworker MARCH 2008 69
..
Grooved Frame
-
---
.
-. . -.
-
-
Follows
.
"
-
.
-
the
.
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straight
and
- ~
-
narrow
~ -
rout(e).
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T
his frame looks as if it's
made from a single board
(Fig. F). But it isn't: A board
this wide could cup or twist,
and seasonal movement could
bind the glass and cause trou-
ble. To minimize these poten-
tial problems, this frame is
made by ripping plainsawn
stock into thin pieces, standing
them on edge and gluing them
back together. This method
creates a blank that's more sta-
ble than a solid board, because
it has quartersawn grain, nar-
row pieces and multiple glue
joints.
Start by crosscutting a 6-in.-
wide by 30-in.-Iong board into
three IO-in.-long sections. Then
rip each section into 1-1/16-in.-
wide pieces (Photo I). This
frame requires fifteen pieces. Glue
the pieces together to form a 1-1/16-
in.-thick blank (Photo 2). Level the
blank's top and bottom faces by sand-
ing. Create the frame by cutting the
blank apart and reassembling it (Photo
3). Rip the blank into three pieces, two
that are 2-1/8-in. wide and one that's 5-
5/8-in. wide, the height of the photo
opening. Next, crosscut the wide cen-
ter piece into three sections. The cen-
ter section must be 3-1/2-in.-wide, the
width of the photo opening. Glue the
frame blank together (Photo 4).
Knock out the center section. Then
crosscut the ends of the blank to cre-
ate 2-in.-wide frame rails. Joint or rip
the two stiles to final width-make
sure these widths are identical, so the
photo opening is perfectly centered.
Set up for routing the grooves
after installing a 1/8-in.-dia. spiral bit
(Photo 5). Install sixteen 5/16-in.-
thick spacers at both ends of the
fence. Firmly press stop blocks
against the spacers and clamp them
to the table. Rout the first groove on
the face and both edges (Photos 6
and 7). Adjust the fence (Photo 8).
From here on in, you rout two
grooves on the face and edges
between each fence adjustment
(Photo 9).
Use a rabbeting bit with a 7/8-in.-
dia. bearing to rout 1/4-in.-wide glass rab-
bets. Square the corners with a chisel. The
rabbeted opening should measure 6-1/8-in.
across the grain, to allow for seasonal move-
ment around the 6-in.-tall glass and back
board.
FIGURE G
JIG FOR RIPPING
THIN STRIPS
1-1116" x 2-1/2"
END STOP
FIGURE H
SLED FOR
ROUTING
EDGES
1/4"W x 5/8"0
RABBET FOR
GLASS
OVERALL
DIMENSIONS:
1"TH x 7-1/2"W x 9-5/8"H
FIGURE F
EXPLODED VIEW
1
Rip 1-1/16-in.-wide pieces from 3/4-
in.-thick blanks that have been cut
to length. A thin-rip jig (Fig. G) makes
the process simple and safe.
4
GIUe the outer pieces back together
to create the frame blank. The cen-
ter section automatically creates the
photo opening. Bevel its corners so it
doesn't get stuck by glue squeeze-out.
7
use a sled with a support block (Fig.
H) to rout the edges.
2
TO glue the blank together, stand
the pieces on end and clamp them
between cauls. Cauls keep the pieces
flush, to minimize sanding.
5
Position the fence so the frame's
first groove will be exactly centered.
Install spacers at both en<;ls and clamp
on stop blocks.
8
Remove one spacer from each side.
The spacers' thickness determines
the distance between the grooves.
Reposition the fence against the
remaining spacers and lock it in place.
3
RiP the blank into three pieces. Then
crosscut the center piece into three
pieces. The outer pieces are the frame's
stiles and rails. The middle section is
exactly the size of the photo opening.
6Rout the first groove on the face.
g
Rout the remaining grooves in
pairs. Rout one groove, then flip the
frame end for end to rout the other
groove. Ditto for routing the edges.
....
BUILD THE Box
1. Select the woods you want to use with an
eye towards contrast and harmony (Photo I).
2. Cut the box sides and ends (A and B) to
size, then cut grooves to house the bottom
panel (G) (Fig. A, page 78).
3. Use a router to create the rabbets on the
top edges of the box sides (Fig. A).
4. Glue up quartersawn red oak for the bot-
tom panel. The quartersawn oak will expand
2
Next, line the
box with
Spanish cedar. The
slightly undersized
bottom panel is_
installed first. The
side p ~ s are
installed last and
cover the bottom's
expansion gaps.
4
cut splines so
their grain runs
diagonally across
the corner of the
box, then glue
them in the slots.
This method of
cutting the splines
ensures that they
have uniform-
looking edges.
3
cut the spline
slots in the
humidor box.
Build a sled that
straddles your
saw's fence to
make accurate,
safe cuts. Use a
thin kerf blade.
1
1mostly used -
. scrap wood for
this project: bubin-
ga for the box, fig-
ured maple for the
lid, walnut for the
feet and red oak
for the bottom. I
bought the
Spanish cedar for
the linings. The
first step is to
miter the box's
sides and glue
them together
around the bottom.
I
love to create projects
from my scrap pile. Boxes
are my favorites. I built this humidor for
a friend to keep his cigars fresh. The
humidor will fit Churchill cigars one way
and Coronas the other. It's lined with
Spanish cedar; traditionally used to
impart delicate flavors to fine cigars.
The box doesn't have to be a humi-
dor, though. Simply omit the cedar liner
and the humidifier to is transform the
box to hold jewelry or keepsakes.
The design was inspired by Japanese
architecture. At first glance it looks com-
plex, but it's just a basic mitered box
with a few added details to dress it up .
- I like small projects like this because
the building process moves swiftly and
allows for more hand tool work than I
can normally afford. I hope you enjoy
building this humidor as much as I did.
, American Woodworker MARCH 2008 77
5
Cut the splines flush
with a pull saw. Use
a thin shim between
the saw and the box
side to prevent saw
marks on the sides.
6
Plane a l-in.-wide bevel
around the perimeter of
the lid. A panel-raising bit
in a router table can do the
job too.
7
The humidifier case is
made from 1/8-in.
Plexiglass that is glued to the
bottom of the lid,
8
The lid is also lined
with Spanish cedar.
Cut a hole in this piece to
house the humidifier.
FIGURE A EXPLODED VIEW
3/16" X 9/16"
RABBET
I
I
I

#4 X 1/2"
FH BRASS
C7
H
TIP: You can
make your' own
Plexiglas glue
by soaking a
teaspoon
or so of
Plexiglas
in an equal
amount of
acetone
overnight.
9
GIUe the walnut
leg blanks onto
the box using a
band clamp. Pre-
stain the walnut
ends and edges
adjacent to the
bubinga.
10
Use a block plane to
taper the legs and
ease the sharp corners.
11
Cut the angled ends of
the handle with a miter
gauge. Layout the angles
and cut to the pencil mark.
12
Cut notches in the
handle and sup-
ports on the bandsaw.
The joint needs to be
snug enough to hold
together without glue.
z
:::
=
and conu'act much less than a flat sawn
panel.
5. The bottom panel is a raised panel
with the bevel facing down. Bevel the
panel on a router table.
6. Cut the miters on the box parts
and assemble with the bottom panel.
7. Cut the Spanish cedar bottom
liner (C) to size. Add a couple dabs of
water-resistant glue at the center and
place it at the bottom of the box. Leave
a l/l6-in. gap between the lining and
the box sides for expansion.
8. Cut the side linings and glue them
in place. (Photo 2).
9. Use a sled to cut slots for the
splines (H and Photo 3).
10. Glue the splines III the slots
(Photo 4). I used maple to contrast with
the bubinga and to tie in with the top.
11. Trim the splines flush (Photo 5)
and sand the sides to 220-grit. Be care-
ful not to roundover the corners or it
will leave a gap where the feet attach.
BUILD THE LID
12. Cut the lid to fit inside the rab-
beted top of the box. I used figured
maple to contrast with the bubinga.
13. Plane a bevel on the edges of the
lid (Photo 6). I found a I-in. bevel
looks best.
14. Create the lid braces (P) from a
3/8-in. thick x 14-in.longpiece ofwood
(I used scrap red oak). Cut a rabbet
along the length (Fig. A). Then rip it
3/4-in. wide, and crosscut it to length.
15. Glue the braces to the lid at the
middle only, then use screws towards
the ends.
16. Cut the top liner (K) to fit the
space between the lid braces.
MAKE THE HUMIDIFIER
17. Create a waterproof box from
1/8-in. Plexiglas (Q, Rand S) (Photo 7).
18. Cut the humidifier trim (1 ) and
assemble to fit the humidifier. Pre-stain
the walnut cover (see "Ebonize and
Finish" at right).
19. Cut green floral foam to fit the
humidifier. Cover the foam with cheese-
cloth. Cover the cloth with sculpture's
wire mesh (available at hobby stores).
20. I used clear silicone caulk to glue
the wire mesh and the cloth on the rims
of the Plexiglas box.
21. Rout a hole in the top liner for
the humidifier (Photo 8). Glue the
liner in place.
22. Glue the humidifier to the under
side of the lid with silicone caulk.
ADD THE LEGS
23. Edge miter two 1/2-in.-thick x 15-
in.-Iong pieces of walnut to form an L-
shaped blank.
24. Crosscut the blank into four legs
(F). Ebonize the edges of the leg blank
that are adjacent to the box sides.
25. Attach the legs to the box (Photo
9).
26. Plane tapers on all four legs
(Photo 10, Fig. A).
BUILD THE HANDLE
27. Cut the handle and its supports
(L and M) to size.
28. Layout and cut angled ends on
the handle (Photo 11, Fig. A).
29. Create notches for bridle joints
on both the handle and the support
pieces (Photo 12).
30. Glue the handle to the supports
(Photo 13). Sand the handle smooth
and soften the edges (Photo 14).
EBONIZE AND FINISH
31. To create the ebonizing stain,
soak steel wool in vinegar overnight.
Use a coffee filter to strain out the rust
particles. The rusty vinegar reacts with
the walnut's tannin and turns it black.
32. Raise the grain of the legs and han-
dle assembly by wiping them down with
water and sand smooth.
33. Brush the rusty vinegar mix on
the legs and handle (Photo 15). The
walnut will turn black almost immedi-
ately. Be careful when staining the legs
because any spill will color the bubinga.
34. Glue the handle to the lid.
35. I finished the box with a 50/50
mix of mineral spirits and pure tung oil.
Notes:
(A) Cut from an L-shaped board made by edge mitering two 1/2" x 15" walnut boards.
(B) Glued-up from quartersawn strips
(C) Cut into triangles with the grain running parallel to the hypotenuse
(D) Width and height dimensions are approximates. Should be cut to fit box opening.
16
The humidor is ready
to charge with water.
To moisten, lift the lid and
add a few drops of distilled
water through the wire
mesh.
1/8" x3/8" x3-1/4"
3/32" x1-1/2" x 18" IC)
1/4" x5/8" x3-9/16"
3/8" x 3/4" x 6-1/2"
1/8" x3/8" x3"
ThxWxL
3/16" x 6-7/8" x7-3/8"
1/2" x 2-3/8" x 10"
1/8" x3-1/4" x3-1/4"
3/16" x 1-3/4" x6-5/8"
1/8" x6-7/8" x8-7/8"
3/16" x 1-3/4" x 9"
3/16" x 1-1/2" x5-3/4"
3/16" x 1" x 2-3/4"
1/2" x 1-3/4" x 2-1/8" (A)
3/8" x7-3/16" x9-3/16" (D)
3/8" x7-1/2" x9-1/2" (B)
1/2" x2-3/8" x8"
Overall Dimensions: 9" Dx 11" W x 5" H
15
Ebonize the walnut by
brushing on rusty vine-
gar-a mixture
made from soak-
ing steel wool in
vinegar.
Humidifier Trim
Handle Su ort
Humidifier Bottom
Humidifier Sides
Humidifier Ends
To Linin
Lid
Lid Handle
Lid Brace
S line
Bottom Panel
Box End
Side Linin
Box Side
Le
Bottom Linin
End Linin
Name
Q
B
Part
K
G
J
E
C
N
A
M
P
L
H
R
S
F
D
14
shape and smooth the
handle with sandpaper.
"I was born in Thailand and earned a degree in
Architecture there. Although I have made a
career change since I rnoved to the USA. I am
still fascinated with design and always try to
practice it in my woodworking. By day, I man-
age a software development team. In the
evening, however, I can be found in my garage
shop tinkering with all things woodworking."
Source:
Rockier. www.rockler.com . (800)279-
4441. 3/8" Spanish cedar, #18392,
$9
Suwat Phruksawan
13
G1ue the handle
assembly togeth-
er. Just a spot of glue is
all that's needed if the
joints are snug.
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...
arne a
cabinet's parts,
and you're sure to
include doors-one of woodworking's
elemental structures. Cabinet doors come in every shape and
form and they can be made a hundred different ways. This
story features a popular form and a foolproof method: Using a
router table equipped with stile and rail cutters to create a
frame and panel door.
THE DOOR
A frame and panel structure creates a stable. solid-wood door (see
Door Structure, at right). Vertical stiles and horizontal rails form a
rigid frame with minimal seasonal The panel floats inside
the frame, housed in grooves, so its seasonal movement is hidden,
especially if the panel is stained and finished before it's installed.
Usually, the stiles and rails are the same width, but making the bot-
tom rail 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. wider subtly balances the door. Doors look
best when the stiles and rails are made from straight-grained stock.
This provides an orderly appearance and focuses attention on the
panel. straight-grained stock also minimizes the door'frame's
seasonal movement. Panels look best when they're thoughtfully con-
structed, either to show striking figure or cohesive grain pattens.
DOOR STRUCTURE
A typical cabinet door consists of vertical
stiles and horizontal rails that surround a
panel. The panel is housed in grooves cut in
the stiles and rails, The panel can be flat, as
shown here, or have a raised center, with
the edges tapered to fit in the grooves.
Raised panels are enormously popular, but
it's hard to top the understated elegance of
a flat panel with pleasing grain or figure.
ane
by TirnJohnson
oor
The stile bit is used to make
edge grain cuts on both the
stiles and rails. It creates a
mirror-image groove and
profile.
Figure B The Cutters
The rail bit is
used to make
end grain cuts
on the rails. It
creates a
tongue with a
profile and a
rabbet.
RAIL
BIT
BEAD
OGEE
TRADITIONAL
ROUND
Figure C Door Width Calculations
WIDTH OF DOOR OPENING ------------.
Because the joints overlap, the sum of the parts (the two stile widths plus the
rail's length) is larger than the overall width of the door. Measure the depth of
the groove to determine the overlap- it's usually 3/8-in. per joint. Add the extra
length to the rail. Once you've determined the correct part sizes to make the
door exactly fit the opening, add an additional 1/8-in. to the width of each stile
and rail (Photo 1).
CLASSICAL
BEVEL
Figure A Profiles
Stile and Rail Cutters
are available in a variety
of decorative profiles.
1
Rip all the stiles
and rails 1/8-in.
oversize in width.
Then cut all the
pieces to final
length. The extra
width allows a sec- <
ond routing pass
on the edge grain,
if the initial pass
causes tearout.
2
Set the rail bit's height with a test rail installed on the sled. For 3/4-in.-
thick stock, position the rabbet cutter to create a 3/16-in.-deep rabbet.
3
Set the fence flush with the rail bit bearing. This assures a smooth cut,
by allowing use of the fence to guide the sled that carries the rails.
Routing Sled
for the Rails
Use this sled to make end
grain cuts safely and easily.
It holds narrow rails squarely
and securely and tracks
against the router table's
fence, which keeps your fin-
gers out of harm's way. It
also supports the rails' back
edges, to prevent blowout.
THE CUTTERS
Stile and rail cutters create a decorative
version of the tongue and groove joint (Fig.
A, page 83). They're available as a single
reversible bit or in dedicated sets. Reversible
bits usually cost less; dedicated sets are more
convenient to use. Dedicated sets include
separate bits for the end grain and the edge
grain (Fig. B, page 83). All cuts are made
with the face of the workpiece against the
table. Reversible bits have to be disassem-
bled and reassembled between cutting oper-
ations. Also, some cuts are made with the
workpiece face-side-up; others are made
face-side-down. For more information about
reversible cutters, see AW #78, Feb. 2000,
p'!ge 72, or go to www.americanwoodwork-
er.com/ revcutters.
PREPARE YOUR STOCK
For inset doors, plan to make your door
the same dimensions as the door opening
(for lipped and overlay doors, add the
lip/overlay widths). Consider the overlap-
ping joints when you calculate the door's
width (Figure C; page 83). Determining the
door's length is easy: Just cut the stiles to the
length of the door opening. Door panels
are housed on all four sides in the frame's
groove, so include the overlaps when you
calculate both the panel's width and height.
Include extra test pieces when you rip
your stile and rail stock (Photo 1). Once the
pieces are cut to length and width, mark
their back sides. Use these marks to correct-
ly orient the pieces for routing.
----
MAKE THE END GRAIN
CUTS FIRST
Begin by routing the rails' end grain.
(To remember to rout the rails before the
stiles, think of the alphabet: "R" comes
before "S.")
Install the rail bit and make a test cut.
(Photos 2 through 4). On the test piece,
check the profile's top lip and bottom rab-
bet. For appearance and strength, the lip
should measure at least l/l6-in. and the
rabbet should measure at least 3/16-in.
For maximum support, don't cut into the
jig's backboard dming your test cuts. Wait
until the bit is set at the correct height.
After you've compleed the end grain
cuts on the rails, install the stile cutter
Dealing with
Tearout
Tearout can occur when you have to
rout against the grain (above). First,
thank your lucky stars for ripping
the pieces oversize in width. Then
rip the stile to remove the tearout
(below) and rout again. The lighter
cut is less likely to tear out.
4
Make a test cut to check your set up. Adjust the bit's height and the
fence, if necessary. Then rout the ends of all the rails-your marks on
the back faces show when the rails are oriented correctly, face-side down.
5
Set the height of the stile bit by aligning its groove cutter with the
tongue on one of your rails. Then reset the fence flush with the bearing.
6
cut a test piece, using featherboards to hold it in position and a push
stick to move it through.
....
Fitting
Plywood
Panels
The bane of using 1/4-in. plywood
for door panels, of course, is that it's
often less than 1/4-in. thick. That
means unsightly gaps or annoying
rattling can result when it's installed
in 1/4-in.-wide grooves. Here are
three ways to cope.
Solution 3: Use adjustable stile and
rail bits, such as these from
Amana's In-stile and Rail System,
which is designed specifically for
use with plywood. These bits allow
adjusting the groove's width (and
the tongue's thickness) by installing
or removing shims. Five different
profiles are available (Amana Tool,
www.amanatool.com. (800) 445-
0077. List prices range from $190 to
$245 per set).
and rout the inside edges of both the
stiles and rails (Photos 5 through 7).
FIT THE FLAT PANEL
With solid-wood flat panels, starting
thick and rabbeting is easier than planing
the entire panel to exact thickness (Photo
8). If your door frames are .3/4-in.-thick,
your panels must be thinner than 7/16-
in., so they don't protrude beyond the
back of the frame.
ASSEMBLE THE DOOR
Before you assemble the door (Photos
9 and 10), sand and finish the panel,
including all the edges. Finishing pre-
vents unsightly strips of unfinished wood
from appearing in the winter, when the
panel shrinks in width, due to seasonal
movement. Finishing the panel's edges
seals the wood so glue can't soak in and
bind the panel to the frame.
Solution 2: Eliminate rattling by
installing space balls to stabilize the
panel (available from Woodcraft,
www.woodcraft.com. (800) 225-1153,
#142284, $6 per 100).
Solution 1: Wedge the panel from the
back to eliminate gaps on the front.
Trim the wedges flush to the frame.
7
Check the fit by installing one of the rails. Thefaces should be flush.
Adjust the cutter height, if necessary, then rout all the inside edges.
After routing, rip and joint the stiles and rails to final width.
8
Create 1/4-in.-thick tongues all around the panel to fit the grooves in
the stiles and rails.
9
Glue the door together one joint at a time. As you go, make sure the outside edges of each joint are flush. First assemble
one corner (1). Next, install the panel (2). You should never glue in a solid wood panel, because of seasonal movement,
but it's okay to glue in a plywood panel. Position the remaining rail (3) and then install the remaining stile (4).
Minimize squeeze out by carefully brushing glue onto the
rail ends: Keep glue away from the groove so it doesn't
come in contact with the panel.
1O
Assure the door is flat and square. Tighten the clamps
gently; stop as soon as the joints squeeze shut. Too
much pressure will bow the door-make sure it remains flat
on the clamp bars. Measure both diagonals. The door is
square if the measurements are identical. You can draw an
out-of-square door true by angling the clamps slightly (so
they're not quite parallel to the rails) and retightening them.
Measure again-if the measurements are farther off than
before, simply reinstall the clamps, angled the opposite way.
BITS, BLADES &CUTTING TOOLS
AMANATOOL Amana Tool - Offers the broad-
est range of industrial grade carbide cutting tools
in the industry. Immediate delivery of router bits,
spirallCNC bits, saw blades, panel saw blades,
coring bits, shaper heads, etc. For more information,
call 800-445-0077 or visit www.amanatool.com.
Circle 2.
FEIN POWER TOOLS For over 130 years Fein has
researched and developed better solutions to take
the place of time consuming manual labor. Superior
quality is in every tool we make. For more informa-
tion, call 800-441-9878 or visit www.feinus.com.
Circle 47.
FREUD, INC. Freud Router Bits - This 84-page,
full-color catalog includes detailed information on
Freud's extensive selection of high quality router bits
and sets. For more information, call 800-334-4107 or
visit www.freudtools.com. Circle 12.
G&G INDUSTRIES, INC Saw-Jaw makes saw blade
changes more hassle-free than ever. It
securely holds blades while they are being installed
or removed. Available from many fine dealers. For
more information, call 800-998-2423 or visit www.
saw-jaw.com. Circle 147.
PRICE CUTTER "The Woodworkers' Best Value."
A large selection of router bits and woodworking
accessories. If you're looking to cut costs without
cutting quality, look no further. Many close-outs at
unbelievable prices. For more information, call 888-
288-2487 or visit www.PriceCutter.com. Circle 30.
SUFFOLK MACHINERY We manufacture Swedish
silicone steel low tension bandsaw blades. All teeth
are milled. Blades from 1/8" thru 2" wide. For more
information call, 800-234-7297 or visit www.suffolk-
machinery.com. Circle 160.
TIMBER WOLF BANDS Timber Wolf Saw Blades,
Low Tension, Swedish Silicon Steel, Available 1/8"
thru 2". For more information visit www.suffolkma-
chinery.com. Circle 173.
CATALOGS
GRIZZLY Free color catalog of over 12,000
woodworking and metalworking machines, tools
and accessories all at incredible prices! For more
information, call 800-523-4777 or visit www.grizzly.
com. Circle 14.
JET EQUIPMENT ANDTOOLS JET family brands
Performax, Powermatic and JET machinery catalog
provides complete information with available acces-
sories. Circle 17.
LEE VALLEY The Lee Valley Hardware catalog
features over 250 pages of cabinet hardware in a
wide variety of styles and finishes. The Lee Valley
and Veritas Woodworking Tools catalog provides a
large selection of quality and hard-to-find hand tools,
woodworking supplies and power tool accessories.
For more information, call 800-871-8158 or visit
www.leevalley.com. Circle 9.
LOWE'S WOODWORKERS FREE Membership in
Lowe's Woodworkers I Sign up and you'll receive The
Woodpost - seasonal newsletters via U.S. Mail, proj-
ect plans, advice from experts, and much more. Go
to www.lowes.com or www.americanwoodworker.
com to sign Upl Circle 46.
M.L. CONDON CO. Handy catalog featuring full
color photographs of 40 woods, a complete listing of
available species and sizes, and selected moulding
profiles. Circle 171.
PACKARD WOODWORKS Specializes in products
for Woodturners. Our 88-page catalog has penmak-
ing supplies, tools, books, videos and much more.
For more information call, 800-683-8876 or visit
www.packardwoodworks.com. Circle 148.
RIKON POWER TOOLS FREE CATALOG. Contact
RIKON Power Tools for a free catalog at catalogre-
quest@rikontools.com, 877-884-5167 or visit www.
rikontools.com. Circle 52.
GENERAL TOOLS AND INSTRUMENTS POCK'IT
JIG KITS for easy pocket hole joinery. DOW'L SIMP'L
KITS for easy doweling joinery. JOINT'R CLAMP
KITS for jointerless joinery and easy STRAIGHTLINE
RIPPING of crooked boards. Our credo: "Keep it
simple, easy to use, low cost, and WORKS EVERY
TIME." Circle 44.
WOODCRAFT SUPPLY CORP. Our free catalog
features over 6,000 woodworking tools, books,
lumber, and hardware. Same day shipping and an
unconditional guarantee. Circle 165.
DUST COLLECTION
JDS COMPANY - AIR FILTRATION JDS offers
quality air filtration units for all size shops. Our new,
Model-ER, is equipped with an LCD remote control
with speed and timer functions - for larger areas our
Models 8-12,10-16, and 2400 are available. "Put the
Force to Work in Your Shop". Our new 1.5 H.P. dust
collector is the perfect addition to our award winning
line of filtration units - powerful (1250 CFM) portable
and ready to work for you I For more information, call
800-480-7269 or visit www.thejdscompany.com.
Circle 18. .
ONEIDA AIR SYSTEMS Provides cost effec-
tive, state-of-the-art dust collection technology to
woodworking shops. We design and manufacture
industrial grade dust collection systems, 1.5 hp to 20
hp and will provide an engineered ductwork diagram
along with a complete parts list. For more informa-
tion, visit www.oneida-air.com. Circle 27.
PENN STATE INDUSTRIES Award-winning dust
collection. Air cleaners, dust collectors, cyclone
systems, hose, connectors, adapters, hoods,
remote switches, etc. 40-page free catalog. For
pennstateind.com. Circle 28.
HAND TOOLS
BRIDGE CITYTOOLS WORKS Serving wood-
workers worldwide for over 24 years. Hand planes,
chisels, Japanese saws, squares and many more
essential tools for the serious woodworker. For more
information call 800-253-3332 or visit us at www.
bridgecitytools.com Circle 104.
COOKS SAW Get Into Wood! Increase profits by
cutting your own lumber with an Accu-Trac portable
sawmill. Free catalog, demonstration video also
available. For more information, call 800-473-4804 or
visit www.cookssaw.com. Circle 114.
LEE VALLEY Our annual full-line Woodworking
Tools catalog, now over 250 pages, displays a large
selection of quality and hard-to-find hand tools,
woodworking supplies, and power tool accessories.
For more information, call 800-871-8158 or visit
www.leevalley.com. Circle 21.
LUMBER
GROFF & GROFF LUMBER Supplier of premium
grade domestic and imported lumbers. 4/4 through
16/4 thickness. Kiln dried. No orders too large or too
small. Shipping anywhere. For more information call
800-342-0001 or email wood4u@epix.net. Circle
125.
MISCELLANEOUS
COUNTRY ACCENTS Features handmade, afford-
able pierced metal panels for your woodworking
projects in 14 types of metal and over 300 designs.
Custom design & sizing a specialty. Blank metal,
specialty tools and punches, patterns & do-it-your-
self supplies. For more information, call 570-478-
4127 or visit www.piercedtin.com. Circle 6.
FURNITURE MEDIC Furniture Medic - We offer
franchises to qualified individuals to perform mobile,
on-site repair and restoration services. Furniture
Medic has developed and patented a repair system
and products that allows franchisees to go into
customer's homes or businesses and repair dam-
aged wood and furniture. For more information call
1-800-255-9687 or visit www.furnituremedic.com.
Circle 53.
HOT DAWG GARAGE HEATERS Don't let winter
hound you out of your garage workspace. Light-
weight, gasfired, low profile, four sizes to heat any
size garage. Call 800-700-7324 or visit us at www.
modine.com/hotdawg. Circle 172.
HENRY REPEATING ARMS Affordable selection
of rifles from a legendary gun maker. Call for FREE
catalog: 718-499-5600 or visit www.henry-guns.
com. Write HRAC, Dept. AW, 110 8th St., Brooklyn,
NY 11215. Circle 42.
RECHARGEABLE BATTERY RECYCLING COR-
PORATION You.can help protect our environment by
recycling the rechargeable batteries found in your
cordless power tools To find a participating drop-off
location visit www.caIl2recycle.org or call toll-free
877-2-RECYCLE. Circle 49.
VILLAGE ORIGINALS INC. U.S. distributor of Seiko
battery clock movements and all accessories. For .
villageseiko.com. Circle 162.
ZOYSIA Want a better lawn? Start with great grass -
Zoysia Farm Nurseries, saving customers time, work
and money since 1952. For more information call
410-756-2311 or visit www.zoysiafarms.com/mag.
Circle 48.
POWER TOOLS
COLONIAL SAW offers Swiss-made Lamello
woodworking tools, including the classic plate-join-
ing machine, the Cantex lipping cutter, the Lamina
laminate trimmer, and the LK-PUR glue-dispensing
system. Call on the East Coast 888-777-2729 and
on the West Coast 800-252-6355 or visit www.csaw. .
com. Circle 191.
CRAFTSMAN TOOLS Available at Sears and Sears
Hardware Stores; or call 800-377-7414 to order
your free copy of the "Craftsman Power and Hand
Tool" catalog. visit us on the web at www.sears.
com/craftsman. Circle 7.
CRITTER SPRAY PRODUCTS Easy to use and
clean - a siphon spray gun that sprays enamels,
alkyds, latex, stains and polyurethane's without
purchasing extra parts. For more information visit
www.crittersprayproducts.com. Circle 116.
DELTA MACHINERY Manufactures the world's most
complete line of woodworking machinery and acces-
sories for use in home workshops and construction
trades. For more information, call 800-438-2486 or
visit www.deltamachinery.com. Circle 8.
FEIN POWER TOOLS For over 130 years Fein has
researched and developed better solutions to take
the place of time consuming manual labor. Superior
quality is in every tool we make. For more informa-
tion, call 800-441-9878 or visit www.feinus.com.
Circle 11.
LAGUNATOOLS Laguna Tools imports quality
European woodworking machines, many of which
are designed for the American woodworker. We fea-
ture an extensive range of combination machines,
award-winning bandsaws, lathes, table saws,
jointers, planers. Find out how we are taking the
woodworking industry by storm with our innovative
designs that will help you make the best cut every
time. Or learn more about our patented Resaw King
blade and Laguna Guide system that makes cutting
on a bandsaw a delight. Call today 800-234-1976
for our FREE demonstration video (DVD's availatle
on some machines), or visit our website at www.
lagunatools.com. Circle 20.
NORWOOD INDUSTRIES INC. Sawmill $4,690. All
new Super Lumbermate 2000, larger capacities,
more options. Manufacturers of sawmills, edgers
and skidders. Call 800-661-7746 ext. 348 or visit
www.norwoodindustries.com. Circle 144.
PORTER-CABLE Receive a free 128-page catalog
featuring Porter-Cable's full offering of power tools,
air nailers and staplers, compressors, and related
accessories. For more information, call 800-465-
TOOL or visit www.porter-cable.com. Circle 29.
RIKON POWER TOOLS RIKON manufactures a va-
riety of stationary woodworking power tools. Listen-
ing to our customers' needs and expectations helps
RIKON to provide the best product for the wood-
worker. RIKON strives to not only have excellent
quality products but outstanding customer service
and satisfaction RIKON products are designed by
woodworkers and customer feedback and include:
Bandsaws, Drill Presses, Jointers, Sanders, Table
Saw and Lathes. For more information, call 877-884-
5167 or visit www.rikontools.com. Circle 52.
RYOBITOOLS Ryobi's 18V Super Combo Kit comes
with a drill, circular saw, reciprocating saw and
flashlighLal1 for just $199. For more information
contact us at 800-525-2579 or visit www.ryobitools.
com Circle 32.
TRADESMAN Where Great Projects Begin! Intro-
ducing our newest line of innovative Bench Power
Tools and Pneumatics. Our products provide quality
performance and features at an exceptional value.
For more information call 800-243-5114 or visit www.
tradesman-rexon.com. Circle 43.
SMITHY Provider of high quality multipurpose metal
and woodworking machinery. For more information,
call 800-476-4849 or fax 800-431-8892. Circle 157.
STEEL CITY TOOL WORKS Not the new kids on
the block
l
We are using our 250 years of experience
to bring you tools with meaningful features, a fair
price, and the longest warranty in the business. For
more information, call 615-225-9001. Circle 50.
WILKE MACHINERY Exclusive home of Bridge-
wood and Yorkcraft. Source for General, Delta, Pow-
ermatic wood-working machinery and accessories.
Machines test run before shipping, quality service
and parts. For more information, call 800-235-2100
or visit www.wilkemach.com. Circle 36.
WOODMASTERTOOLS - DRUM SANDER See
why Woodmaster's 26", 38" & 50" Drum Sanders are
rated #1 by independent experts. Free report. For
woodmastertools.com. Circle 38.
WOODMASTER TOOLS - PLANER See how you
can quickly turn $5 rough stock into $75 worth of
molding with a Woodmaster Molder/Planer/ Sander/
Saw Free facts. For more information, call 800-821-
6651 or visit www.woodmastertools.com.
Circle 39.
WOODSTOCK INTERNATIONAL, INC. Shop Fox
Woodworking Machines offer industrial level quality,
proprietary features, and very affordable prices. Ask
about them at your local woodworking supplier. For
shopfox.biz. Circle 37.
WOODWORKING SUPPLIES
& ACCESSORIES
ADJUSTABLE CLAMP COMPANY The Adjustable
Clamp Company has been manufacturing quality
hand tools and accessories for almost 100 years.
Jorgensen, Pony and Adjustable products have
been preferred worldwide by fine woodworkers,
shop experts, professionals and do-it-yourselfers
since 1903. For more information, visit our website
www.adjustableclamp.com. Circle 1.
THE CRAFTSMAN GALLERY The Craftsman Gal-
lery - Demonstrates and supplies WoodRat joinery
machines and accessories throughout the USA and
Canada. Develops products that enhance WoodRat
capabilities. For more information visit www.chips-
fly.com. Circle 115.
EPOXYHEADS EpoxyHeads brand resin, hardener
and additives are the tools you need to build or
fix just about anything in your home neatly and
permanently. EpoxyHeads epoxy adheres to wood,
tile, masonry, plastic and more. For more informa-
tion, call 866-376-9948 or visit www.epoxyheads.
com. Circle 10.
GORILLA GLUE The Toughest Glue on Planet
Earth Gorilla Brand Premium Glue is the finest
glue available for bonding wood, stone, metal
ceramics, plastics, and more. Incredibly strong and
100% waterproof. For more information, call 800-
966-3458 or visit www.gorillaglue.com. Circle 15.
JDS COMPANY - ACCU-MITER The Accu-Miter is
the ultimate professional miter gauge. Built to last
through years of serious work, demanding crafts-
men love the precision, accuracy and convenient
features. Tapered shotpin mechanism assures
dead-on accuracy. Adjustable bar provides perfect
fit to your saw. Telescoping inner fence and micro
adjusting f1ipstop makes cross cutting a breeze. For
thejdscompany.com.
Circle 19.
LEIGH INDUSTRIES Leigh offers router joinery jigs,
including the 04 Dovetail Jig, which cuts Through,
Half-blind and Sliding dovetails up to 1" thick. They
also make jigs for mortise & tenons, finger joints and
Isoloc joints. For more information, call 800-663-
8932 or visit www.leighjigs.com.
L1GNOMAT Lignomat offers two lines of hardwood
moisture meters, with and without pins. Ask about
our free brochure to find out which instrument best
suits your needs. For more information, call 800-227-
2105. Circle 134.
MILLER DOWEL CO. The Miller Dowel is a revolu-
tionary all-wood fastener that combines the advan-
tages of natural joinery with the ease of use of nails
or screws. For more information, call 866-966-3734
or visit www.millerdowel.com. Circle 23.
MLCS MLCS offers a huge selection of carbide-
tipped router bits and boxed sets, raised panel door
sets, shaper cutters, solid carbide bits, Forstner bits,
plus our unique line of clamps, tools, & supplies.
Free shipping and excellent quality guaranteedI Visit
www.mlcswoodworking.com or call toll-free 800-
533-9298. Circle 22.
OSBORNE WOOD PRODUCTS, INC. Manufactur-
ers of stock and custom wood parts such as table
legs, tapered legs, balusters, newel posts made
from alder, cherry, maple and oak. Free catalog. For
osbornewood.com. Circle 146.
PENN STATE INDUSTRIES Penn State Industries
offers quality woodworking equipment and supplies.
For a FREE catalog visit us on the web at www.
pennstateind.com or call toll-free 1-800-377-7297.
Circle 28.
ROCKLER Rocker is the #1 resource for hinges,
slides and other hard-to-find hardware. We feature
an exclusive line of jigs, shop tables for band saws,
drill presses, routers as well as exotic and domestic
hardwoods. For more information, call 800-403-9736
or visit www.rockler.com. Circle 151.
SPACEBALLS Black Bridge Online has a simple
solution to panel movement in cabinet doors..
Spaceballs
l
When Spaceballs are inserted into the
dados of the stiles and rails, when constructing
solid wood panel doors, panels will be centered and
cracking of glue joints is significantly reduced and
"panel rattle" is eliminated. For more information, call
800-826-8912 or visit www.blackbridgeonline.com.
Circle 108.
TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE Titebond
III offers superior bond strength, longer open as-
sembly time and a lower application temperature.
Waterproof and cleans up with water. It passes the
stringent ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance speci-
fication. The best choice for interior and exterior
wood-to-wood applications. Franklin International,
Inc. Circle 16
TURBINAIRE Turbinaire offers a complete line
of Turbine and Compressor HVLP Spray Equipment.
The unique built-in speed controller on Turbinaire
variable speed turbines provides the versatility to
control the air output based on the material being
sprayed; reduce air for light bodied coatings and
increase air for heavy bodied coatings. For more
information, call 800-866-HVLP or visit www.Turbi-
naire.com. Circle 35.
VERILUX Verilux famous Natural Spectrum daylight
lamps and bulbs. Receive a free catalog and 75%
off your first order. The finest woodworking light-
guaranteed!! www.VeriluxStore.com. Circle 4.
WAGNER ELECTRONICS World leader in moisture
measurement technology for over 40 years offering a
complete line of handheld moisture meters for
almost any application. Offering a superior line of
pin-free moisutre meters. For more information, call
800-505-1281 or visit www.moisturemeters.com.
Circle 163.
WOODTURNERS INC. Table legs, Queen Anne
legs, bed posts, table pedestals, furniture parts, bun
feet and furniture hardware. In stock. Call 1-877-603-
9663 or visit www.woodturners.net. Circle 166.
WOODWORKERS SOURCE Over 25 years of
experience supplying woodworkers more than 100
woods from around the world - lumber, turning
stock, and veneers. Quantitydiscounts, worldwide
shipping and guaranteed satisfaction. Compre-
hensive website includes detailed information on
each wood and provides for ordering exotic and
domestic hardwood online. For more information
call us at1-800-423-2450, Extn. 110 or visit www.
woodworkerssource.com. Circle 168.
M
WOODWORKER.S
ARKETPLACE
noW
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cut In t\a The
THE JAPAN WOODWORKER www.japanwoodworker.com
1731 Clement Ave. Alameda, CA 94501 1-800-537-7820....
To advertise in THE MARKETPLACE or
Classified sections, calL ext 29
90 AMERICAN WOODWORKER'" MARCH 2008
GROFF &GROFF LUMBER, INC.
OVER 70 DOMESTIC AND IMPORTED SPECIES
Custom-Mode Flooring
Curly Cherry 4/4 to 16/4 Birdseye & Tiger Maple
Mahogany 30"+ Premium Walnut & Cherry
== Matching flitches, 5/4 1o 8/4 18
W
-40" wide
K.D. lumber, Nationwide & International Shipping
No Order Too Large or Too Small
email: wood4u@epix.net www.groHslumber.com
n Ilin 2840001 800342-0001 FAX Ilin 2842400
MOISTURE METER
mini-LignoEID
Moisture meters can help avoid
frustrating moisture problems such as
shrinking, warping, failed gluelines and
loose joints. The ElD is agreat meter at
an affordable price for any cabinetmaker
or woodworker.
MIDSIZED 1600 with
basic HYDRAULICS!
4 Mode's to Choose:
from Hobby to Super.Pro
-------------:'1
Valentine's Day delivery guaranteed.
It's a gift you'll both love!
1.800.GIVE.PJS
www.PajamaGram.com
SPOIL
HER
for
Valentine's
Day!
p Send hera

Choose from hundreds
of greaf styles,
Each PajamaGram
comes with a
lavender sachet,
gift card, and
Do Nof Disturb
sign, delivered
in abeautiful
haf box.
ALL FREE!
o
z
"
L- --'O
Dust Collector 17!35A
1HP Mobile Tabletop
www.Toolmarts.com
1-800-735-8665
30 micron bag This unit has a 4" intake
2 Cu-f1 bag volume capacity +Air suction
capacity of approximately 500 CFM
Great _ilion for any wood working shop
__ 23 Gauge Headless Micro Pin Nailer
+Comes with Oil, in a Rugged Aluminum Case P630
+0' Ring Kit & Swivel Adapter +Extra Driver
Pins 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", '",1-3/16" $59.99
2000/pk $3.99/pk 'iiiiiiiiiil
Uses 236a Seneo & Porter Cable Micro Pin Nails .,.

_IfERr
Adjustabls working length ranges
from 24" up 'A 58"
Maximum holding weight 286 Ibs
Rollers are 20" x 2.5"
Accordian style closes up to save space ""
Roller Stand un3
MACBIJIERr
Rollers aie 16" x 1.5" +Length = 71" P
+Width =18" +Adjuslable working
height ranges from 25 3/8" to 44" $79.
99
+Maximum holding capacity =440 Ibs
Visit our website or call us today for best pric:es on aU brands. a
z
"
____... ..0
I

lI..www ....... :i
... ..... ..0
To advertise in
THE MARKETPLACE
or Classified sections, call 215...321...9662 ext 29
AMERICAN WOODWORKER ... MARCH 2008 91
Band Saw Blades
STEVE WALL LUMBER CO.
Quality HatdWoods and Woodwotking machinety Fot
111. Ctaftsman and
EXOTIC LUMBER
THIN CRAFTWOOD
SEE OUR CATALOG ON THE WEB!
OLIVER MACHINERY DEALER
CUSTOM PLANK HRDWD FLOORING
CUSTOM RAISED PANEL DOORS
HARDWOOD PLYWOOD
Send $1.00 For Lumber Catalog
Prius subject to Change Without Notice
STEVE WALL LUMBER CO.
BOX 287 MAYODAN N C 27027
336-427-0637 1-800-633-4062
FAX 336427-7588
Email woodQ ... allilimber com
WebSite www Nalllumber com
Ash ......_ 414 SeIe<:t $ 2.60 _..._. $ 94.00
Basswood _ 414 SeIe<:t $1.95 __ S 81100
Bin:I1 _......._.._... 414 Select $ 3.55 .._ _ S108.00
8lltlooIuI _ 414 IC $ 2.95 _. . $ 88.00
01eny ._ _ _ _414 SeIe<:t S4.90 _ $117.00
Ifld""y Pe<a1 .......... 414 Select $ 3.00 _ __.. $ 100.00
... 4/4 Select $4.70 -'''TTlIl'--- $112.00
Maple (Hard) .. __.__.. 414 Select S3.45 ....... ..._. $108.00
Maple (Soft) _ _ 414 SeIe<:t $ 2.50 -snrNU'S" S 88.00
Poplar .. _ _ 414 Select $1.80 r.kltIlU" .. S 78.00
Red Oal<.._ _.. 414 Select $2.70 __._._.__. $ 96.00
WalnuL. _ 414 SeIe<:t $4.90 _ _ $115.00
White Oal< 414 Select $ 2.70 _ S 96.00
Ce<W(Anmalic Red) .. 4/4 IC>Btr. $1.80 __.._ $ 78.00
Cypress 414 SeIe<:t $ 2.60 _ _ _ S 90.00
WIlitePlne 414 F.G. $1.25 _ $ 70.00
Yellow Pine 414 Clear $ 2.30 $ 82.00
Above prices are for 100' Above prices are 20 bd. ft.
quantities of kilndried rough burdes of dear kilndried tum-
lumber sold bylhe Bd. Ft. FOB ber3"lO"wi<!e3'-5'Iong(Ran-
Mayodan, NC. Call for quan- domwidlhs&Ienglhs)SUrfa<:ed
t:ity discounls. Other sizes and 2sidesorrough. DetiveredUPS
grades available. prepaid in the Continental U.S.
...... ..... -....
Multi-Purpose Routing Jig
GOOD HOPE HARDWOODS
'Where Fine Woodworking Begins"
Specializing In:
Lumber kits for all your
woodworking projects
Matched sets of custom cut lumber
for the advanced woodworker.
Wide slabs for your slab table tops.
4/4-24/4 for all of your lumber needs.
1627 New London Rd. Landenberg PA 19350
Phone 610-274-8842/Fax 610-2553677
TIMBER WOLFr"
Call for a FREE DVD or Video:
800.233.0741 ext. 5855
www.endLesspooLs.com/5855
Already own a pool? Ask about the FA5 T LANE"
bt&dia.>PooG,In<:
The 8' x 15' Endless
Pool fits into existing
spaces such as basements,
garages, decks and patios. No
crowded pools, no heavy chlorine, no flip-turns.
call: Suffolk Machinery 800-234-7297
Free Catalog www.suffolkmachinery.com
To advertise in
THE MARKETPLACE
or Classified sections, call
215--321--9662 ext 29
One tool, any wood joint Guides router for: - mortises
-tenons
dovetails
raised panels
and a lot more!
Available in June '08
Call 866.966.3728
or visit www.chipsfly.com
Mill _ret., .......... and building logs
AppoiIDd 'lESTBUY" ill Giir Ii IIir{SoledisIl Do. YooneIIIIIOgIZint)
1707-5622099 www.granberg.com
92 AMERICAN WOODWORKER'" MARCH 2008
SHE'LL LOVE IT!
VermontTeddyBear.com
1.800.829.BEAR
Valentine's Day Delivery Guaranteed!
Be original this year, send her the Creative
Alternative to Flowers- a Bear-Gram gift! Over
100 Bears to choose from, each delivered
with gourmet chocolate and a card with your
personal message in our famous gift box.
GIVE BEAR
GET LOVE!
-
1-800-66107746-Exl. 348
norwoodsawmllls.com/348
WOODWORKER'S
MARKETPLACE
BUNK BEDS
Toms/EQUIPMENT
BUNK BEDS. Clear $300/day making Bunk
Beds. Start at home in your spare time.
800.382.3180 ext. 1855
www.bunkbedspecialties.com
www.nailzone.com Fast shipping on
Senco, Hitachi, Paslode, and other nailers,
staplers and fasteners. Low Prices.
800-227-2044
To advertise in
THE MARKETPLACE
or Classified sections, call 215,321,9662 ext 29
AMERICAN WOODWORKER ... MARCH 2008 93
...
MyNarmal
Workshop
I'm sure I'm not the only reader
who is astounded by the pristine,
seemingly unused shops that fre-
quently appear in this department.
Here are a couple of pictures of my
shop, showing the carnage after
turning two salad bowls and sixteen
serving bowls as wedding gifts. Piled
in front of my bandsaw are left-over
scraps from sawing the logs. Under
the saw is sawdust. Stacked not-so-
neatly behind the saw are short
pieces of wood that are too beauti-
ful to burn. The old filing cabinet
in the back is full of machine man-
uals, paper, patterns and other
shop essentials. I found the blue
tackle boxes that are stacked next
WHERE OUR READERS LIVE
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to the saw at the town dump.- They're now loaded
with square drive screws.
I took the lathe photo after removing most of
the mid-calf pile of shavings created during the
bowl-turning. As any turner knows, you need lots
of sandpaper-check out the yellow Klingspor
bargain boxes that surround the micro-wave
oven. I use the oven to dry some of my green
turnings. The old ho pita! light (I'm an ER
physician by day) prmide QTeat illumination for
bowl turning.
My outfeed table con isr.s of two oap tone
chemistry lab tables that I re cued from the old
high school. Dead flat and impenious to mallet
blows, they also make excellem as embly tables.
Visitors always ask why my hop i 0 untidy.
The answer is simple: My six-month backlog of proj-
ects and orders doesn't lea\'e a lot of time for clean-
ing. So please give ordinary woodworkers-those of
MY SHOP
us who don't clean our shops daily-
a taste of glory. Those clean shops scare me!
Roger Lafleur
Brookfield, MA
Tell us about your shop!
Send us photos of your shop, a layout drawing and a description of what makes your shop interesting. Tell us what you make in it and what makes
your shop important to you. If "My Shop' features your shop, you'll receive $100.
E-mail your entry to myshop@americanwoodworicer.com with digital photos attached. Or mail your description with prints or digital
photos on a disc to My Shop, AmericanWoodworicer, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121. Please include your phone
number. Submissions cannot be returned and become our property on acceptance and payment. We may edit submissions and use them
in all print and electronic media.
Call for Entries!
Woodworker's Showcase
Here is your chance to share your best
work with fellow woodworkers across
the country and around the world.
As woodworkers, we love to build things, but we also love
to share our work and the ideas behind them. American
Woodworker Magazine is debuting a new department
called "Woodworker's Showcase." We're looking for
projects that range from practical, everyday pieces to
one-of-a-kind artistic masterpieces.
Here's how to submit your work! We ask that the piece you submrt be made pri-
marily of wood by your own two hands. Only high qualrty photos will be selected for
publication so malke sure you put some time and effort into your photograph. Check
out our web page (www.americanwoodworker.com/phototips) for tips on taikng
good photographs. Digrtal photographs are preferred but slides and color negatives
are also acceptable. If you want your slides or negatives back, you must include a stamped, sell-
addressed envelope wrth your submission.
Send your pictures along wrth a description of the piece that includes the wood(s), joinery and
finish that you used. It seems like every piece has a story behind it - please feel free to share
yours. We look forward to hearing from you.
Send entries to: Showcase@AmericanWoodworker.com or mail to: American
Woodoworker Magazine, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121.
Cherry
Cabinet
by Dave Munkiltrick
River Falls, WI
CRAZY MISTAKES WOODWORKERS MAKE
NAILED
I inherited a walnut secretary that was made by my great-grandfather
over 100 years ago. A drop-front desk with a bookcase on top, it had
numerous coats offinish. The most recent, a very heavy coat of white paint,
was probably applied over fifty years ago. I used paint remover to get down
to the wood, followed by hours of sanding by hand.
While sanding the inside, -my sandpaper caught on something sharp.
The space was difficult to look into, so without thinking, I felt inside-and
caught my finger on the sharp end of a protruding nail. Not wanting to get
caught again, I tried to grind down the nail point with a hand-held grinder.
I ran my finger over the area once again, to make sure the nail was
gone-and got pierced by a red-hot sliver of metal. At least this time the
wound was sterilized!
Tom Lambert
HOUSE OF DUST
To keep airborne dust from
getting into the house, I bought
a dust collector for my basement
workshop. I wanted to start with
a clean slate, so I decided to rid
the shop of a decade's worth of
dust that had collected on the
ductwork, pipes, lights, shelves,
and so forth.
I opened the basement doors
and turned on the whole house
fan, which is located in the hall-
way ceiling on the second floor.
Then I used my shop vacuum as
a blower to dislodge the dust.
It worked like a charm. The
clouds of dust that billowed off
everything I pointed the wand
at were efficiently drawn up the
stairs.
Unfortunately, most of the
dust never left the house.
Instead, it took up residence on
every furnishing, from tables to
tea cups. I am now on upstairs
cleanup duty until further
notice. No good deed goes
unpunished.
Randy Walker
Make your woodwork-
ing mistakes pay!
Send us your most memo-
rable ''What was I thinking?"
blunders. You'll receive $25
for each one we plint. E-mail
to oops@americanwoodwork-
er.com or send to AW Oops!,
American Woodworker,
1285 Corporate Center Drive,
Suitel80, Eagan, MN 55121.
Submissions can't be returned
and become our property
upon acceptance and pay-
ment. We may edit submis-
sions and use them in all print
and electronic media.
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