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Denim

Denim fabric dyed with blue and black dyes and made into a jacket.

Denim[1] is a sturdy cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the denim that distinguishes it from cotton duck.

It is a characteristic of any indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the textile then shows the blue warp threads and the other side shows the white weft threads. This is why blue jeans are white on the inside. This type of dyeing also creates denim's fading characteristics, which are unique compared to every other textile.

Contents

1 Etymology and origin 2 Dry or raw denim o 2.1 Patterns of fading 3 Selvage denim 4 Dyeing

5 Colored denim 6 Stretch denim 7 Uses o 7.1 Clothing o 7.2 Accessories o 7.3 Furniture o 7.4 Vehicles 8 Worldwide market

Etymology and origin


The word "denim" comes from the name of a fabric that was first made in the city of Nmes, France, by the Andr family. It was originally called serge de Nmes but the name was soon shortened to "denim." Denim has been used in the United States since the late 18th century.[2][3] Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue jeans, although "jean" formerly denoted a different, lighter, cotton fabric. The contemporary use of the word "jean" comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gnes),[1] where the first denim trousers were made.

Dry or raw denim


See also: Stone washing

Dry or raw denim (contrasted with "washed denim") is denim that is not washed after having been dyed during production. Over time, denim will usually fade, which is considered desirable by some people. During the process of wear, fading will usually occur on those parts of the article that receive the most stress. In a pair of jeans, these parts include the upper thighs, the ankles, and the areas behind the knees. After being made into an article of clothing, most denim articles are washed to make them softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage (which could cause the article to not fit properly after its owner washes it). In addition to being washed, "washed denim" is sometimes artificially distressed to produce a "worn" look. Much of the appeal of artificially distressed denim is that it resembles dry denim which has faded. In jeans made from dry denim, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears them and by the activities of his or her daily life. This process creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more "natural" look than the look of artificially distressed denim.[4] To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months.[5]
Patterns of fading

Natural "honeycomb" fades.

Patterns of fading in jeans, caused by prolonged periods of wearing them without washing, have become the main allure of dry denim. Such patterns are a way of "personalizing" the garment.[6] These patterns have specific names: Combs or honeycombs These are faded lines that are found behind the knees. Whiskers Faded streaks that surround the crotch area of the jeans. Stacks These are created by having the inseam of the jeans hemmed a few inches longer than the actual leg length. The extra fabric then stacks on top of the shoe, causing a faded area to form around the ankle, extending up to the calf area. Train tracks These appear on the outseams of the denim. This pattern showcases the selvage by forming two sets of fades which resemble train tracks.

Selvage denim

Denim jeans showing the selvages of the fabric joined to make a seam.

Selvage is the edge of a fabric as it comes from the loom. Selvages are woven or knit so that they will not fray, ravel, or curl. Selvage denim refers to a unique type of selvage that is made by means of using one continuous cross-yarn (the weft), which is passed back and forth through the vertical warp beams. This is traditionally finished at both edges with a contrasting warp (most commonly red); that is why this type of denim is sometimes referred to as "red selvage." This method of weaving the selvage is possible only when using a shuttle loom. Shuttle looms weave a narrower 30-inch fabric, which is on average half the width of modern shuttleless Sulzer looms. Consequently a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans from selvage denim (approximately three yards). To maximize yield, most jeans are made from wide denim and have a straight outseam that utilizes the full width of the fabric, including the edges. Selvage denim has come to be associated with premium quality jeans, which show the finished edges from the loom rather than the overlocked edges that are shown on other jeans.[citation needed]

Dyeing
Denim was originally dyed with a dye produced from the plant Indigofera tinctoria, but most denim today is dyed with synthetic indigo dye. In both cases, the yarn undergoes a repeated sequence of dipping and oxidization the more dips, the stronger the color of the indigo.

Rope dyeing is considered the best yarn-dyeing method, as it eliminates shading across the fabric width. The alternative "slasher process" is cheaper because only one beaming process is needed. In rope dyeing, beaming is done twice.

Colored denim
Denim fabric dyeing is divided into two categories: indigo dyeing and sulfur dyeing. Indigo dyeing produces the traditional blue color or shades similar to it. Sulfur dyeing produces specialty black colors and other colors, such as red, pink, purple, gray, rust, mustard, and green.

Skinny jeans made from red denim

A mini-skirt made from purple denim

Jeans made from light gray denim

Stretch denim
Stretch denim incorporates an elastic component, such as spandex. This creates a certain amount of "give" in garments made from stretch denim. Only a small percentage (about 3%) of spandex is required within the fabric to create a

significant stretching capacity of about 15%. However, this feature will shorten the wearing life of the garment.

Uses
Clothing

Boots and shoes Capri pants Dresses Hats Jackets Jeans Overalls (dungarees) Shirts Shorts, including Daisy Dukes and cut-offs Skirts Sneakers (Keds, Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars) Suits Swimsuits

Accessories

Belts Handbags (purses) Tote bags

Furniture

Bean bag chairs Lampshades Upholstery

Vehicles

Between 1973 and 1975 Volkswagen produced the Jeans Beetle, which had all-denim trim. They also repeated this concept in some later models.[7] AMC offered a Levi's trim package for its Gremlin and Pacer models, which was actually spun nylon made to imitate denim. Jeep has also offered Levi's trim packages.

Worldwide market

The dyehouse at the White Oak Cotton Mill, in Greensboro, North Carolina. The Cone Mills Corporation, which owned the mill, was formerly the world's largest maker of denim.

In 2007, the worldwide denim market equalled USD 51.6 billion, with demand growing by 5% and supply growing by 8% annually.[8] Over 50% of denim is produced in Asia, most of it in China, India, and Bangladesh. The following table shows where the world's denim mills are located.[8]
Region China Asia (excluding China) North America Europe Latin America Africa Australia No. of Denim Mills 297 104 9 41 46 15 1

Total Denim Mills (world-wide) 513

Denim Fabrics
Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns. The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or warp threads (parallel to the selvage). The white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton yarn;however, today its blended with polyester,to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch.Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and stonewashed, and the indigo Denim Fabric Construction Denim is made from rugged tightly woven twill in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Lengthwise, yard is dyed with indigo or blue dye; horizontal yarns remain white. The yarns have a very strong twist to make them more durable, but this also affects the denim's color. The yarns are twisted so tightly that indigo dye usually colors only the surface, leaving the yarns center white. The blue strands become the threads that shown on the outside of your denim and the white are the ones that make the inside of your denim look white. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. Through wear, the indigo yarn surface gives way, exposing the white yarn underneath which causes denim to fade. Jeans are basic 5 pocket pants, or trousers made from denim. Denim is an indigo-dyed cotton twill fabric in which the weft passes under two or more warp fibers. The term derives from 'Serge De Nimes', the French city where it was produced; but denim and Serge De Nimes are in fact different fabrics. Two words come from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nimes, France. Originally called serge de Nimes (fabric of Nimes), the name was soon shortened to denim (de Nimes). Denim was traditionally colored blue with natural indigo dye to make blue Jeans, though "Jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile, the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy, where the first denim trousers where made. Jeans transcend age, economic and style barriers. But jeans themselves have reached iconic status. Jeans based on cuts and washes: Low-rise, ultra-low-rise, Boot-cut, Flare leg, Stone-washed, Dark, distressed jeans. Jeans based on body types: Slim body, Curvy body, Athletic body, Full-figured body types.

Famous Denim Terms


Stonewashing: A process that physically removes color and adds contrast. Jeans and stones are rotated together for a set period of time. The washing time dictates the final color of the fabric the longer the denim and stones are rotated the lighter the color becomes and more contrast is achieved. The denim is then rinsed, softened and tumble dried.

River Washing: A washing process using a combination of pumice stones and cellulose enzymes to give denim a vintage, worn hand. The washer is loaded only with stones and fabric for the first cycle. Enzymes are introduced for the second stage in combination with the stones and they are tumbled until a naturally aged look is produced.

Indigo: The dye used for denim, initially taken from the indigofera tinctoria plant. The majority of indigo used today is synthetically made. Natural indigo has slightly red cast.

Tate-Ochi: Japanese term referring to occurrences of Iron-Ochi forming in vertical lines in vintage denim. As the thread width is not uniform in vintage denim, the color fades the most where the thread is the thickest. This creates a white or severely faded thread of several centimeters along a single vertical indigo thread.

Type of Denims Natural Denim A type of ring-ring denim naturally uneven in warp and weft. Polycore Denim Often found in replica jeans, offers the best mix of strength of polyester core and vintage aesthetic of cotton top thread layer. Ring-spun Denim Ring spun yarns were traditionally used in denim up until the late 1970s, but where later supplanted by cheaper Open End yarns. This is spinning process in which the individual fibers

are fed onto the end of the yarn while it is in the "twisting" stage. The process consists of a ring, a ring traveler and a bobbin that rotates at high speed. The ring-spun yarn produced by this method crates unique surface characteristics in the fabric, including unevenness, which gives jeans an irregular authentic vintage look. Ring-spun yarns add strength, softness and character to denim fabric. Ring-Ring Denim Ring/Ring or double ring-spun denim uses ring-spun yarn for both warp and weft. This is the traditional way to produce denim. It's possible to combine a ring-spun warp fabric with an Open End Weft, to get much of the strength and look of the traditional ring/ring denim at lower cost. Ring Denim A traditional type of denim fabric, revived in the late '80s and early '90-s, using ring-spun yarn for the warp. Characterized by a softer hand and an uneven surface appearance. Bull Denim A heavyweight denim weave (14oz. plus) with a typical 3x1 twill construction. An ecru fabric, bull denim is later printed or garment dyed. Dual Ring Spun also called "ring X ring". Signifies a denim weave in which both the warp and weft threads are made of ring-spun yarn. It creates a much softer and textured hand than both open-end and regular (single) ring-spun denim. Due to higher production costs it is usually only used by higher end, premium denim labels. Black-Black denim Denim where the warp yarn is black instead of blue and which is also dyed black after weaving. This makes the jeans truly black rather than gray. Open End Denim Open End or OE Spinning was introduced in the 1970s, reducing cost by omitting several elements of the traditional spinning process. The cotton fibers are 'mock twisted' by blowing them together. Open End denim is bulkier, coarser and darker, because it absorbs more dye, and wears less well than Ring Spun denim. Over Twisted Denim made from yarn that is over twisted, giving the fabric a particular crinkled surface.

Printed Denim that has been printed with a pattern-a batik, stripe or floral, for example-often in contrasting colors and aimed at very young market. Reverse Denim A novelty use of denim-turned inside out to give jeans a really different look. Pinto Wash Denim A product of Cone Mills, USA; said to be the first bleached denim. In 1969, in Greensboro, North Carolina, a hurricane flooded local Cone Mills plants and warehouses. Millions of yards of denim were soaked with water and had to be dried immediately to avoid mildewing. It seemed a catastrophe, but a Cone Mills merchandiser in the New York office came up with an idea: run the fabric irregularly through a solution to remove the dye and give the denim a faded and mottled appearance. Designers, manufacturers and young consumers all jumped on the new product, making Pinto Wash Denim an instant success. Denim Washing Dramatic changes have occurred in the function and design of jean garments since the first pairs of jeans were created for gold miners during the California Gold Rush.The evolution of the jeans market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments.Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as workwear with primary emphasis on their durability and practicality.But when jeans were discovered and appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable, and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments and make them more unique.These techniques include garment washing, stone washing, stone washing with chlorine, ice washing, and cellulase enzyme washing.Basically, all of these techniques involve the processing of garments in rotary drum machines. The first generation of indigo jeans was stiff and uncomfortable when first purchased, due to the finishing techniques used for denim fabrics.Normally after weaving, greige denim is singed, finished with starch and a lubricant, and then mechanically shrunk.This mechanical shrinking did "break" the hand somewhat, but no other processing techniques were employed to provide a soft handle.Usually, consumers would take a newly purchased pair of jeans home and soften them by washing once or several times before the first wearing.Denim fabric continues to be processed using the same basic finishing system, but after being cut and sewn, denim garments may undergo additional processing. The second generation of the jeans market evolution produced pre-washed jeans by the manufacturer.These jeans had a slightly faded appearance and a softer hand that felt comfortable, as though they had been laundered several times.This trend became fashionable as well, and consumers were willing to pay the extra cost involved for this additional processing.Consumers no longer had to bother "breaking-in" their jeans themselves with the added benefit that the jeans were already shrunk to size with little or no residual shrinkage. Not long after the introduction of pre-washed jeans, the idea of using abrasive stones to

accelerate the aging process was developed and "stone washing" was born, creating an even more "broken-in" look.Next, chlorine bleach was incorporated in these wash techniques and a whole new paler blue denim family evolved.Then, ice washing was developed, in which the porous stones are soaked in a bleaching agent and then tumbled with dry or slightly damp garments.This process has been given many names, including acid wash, snow wash, white wash, frosted, etc.Actually, the term "acid wash" is a misnomer since acids alone should never be used for this process. Most recently, a cellulase wash procedure was developed in which cellulase enzymes were used to accelerate color and fiber removal.A reduced quantity of stones can be used to create a desirable washed down appearance.This process can be more efficient; since with fewer stones, larger load sizes can be processed, and there is less of an abrasive effect on the inside of the rotary drum.

Denim "Technical" Terms and Definitions


Thread Starter

3x1 vs. 2x1 weave This refers to the number of weft threads per warp thread. Most denims have been traditionally 3x1 weaves, though lighter weight denims (under 10.5 ounces/sqare yard) often use the 2x1 configuration. Acid washing The quick definition can be summed up in one word, "horrible". Also called "Snow wash". This technique reared it head up in Italy in the late 80s. Basically you soak your pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with the jeans. Then neutralise. [from ringring]

Big E "Big E" jeans refer to Levi's jeans produced before 1971, in which the red tab on the back pocket had the LEVI'S logo with a capital E. Post-1971 Levi's jeans are written "LeVI'S" on the red tab. Broken Twill Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboypreferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill. [additions from ringring] Dual Ring-Spun Also called RingxRing, Ring-Ring, Double Ringspun. Dual ring-spun denim is denim where both the warp and weft (filler) threads are made of ring-spun yarn. Typically only premium, more expensive denim brands use this method, as it is more labor intensive and thus more costly to produce. The result however, is a very textured denim, and is much softer than open-end or single ring-spun. You will know ringspun denim when you see it - the warp threads will be "slubby" at some points, and there will be little puffs of indigo thread. It is more obvious when looking at the weft threads (underside of the denim). Enzyme wash The environmentally friendly way to stone wash jeans, through the application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. No pumice stones are used. When the desired colour is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. A final rinsing and softening cycle is next, before the jeans are ready to be sold. Still frowned upon by companies such as Howies, who prefer to use rubberised "Eco" Balls to wash their jeans. [from Cake] Left Hand Twill This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Now used by other denim companies such as 45rpm, Kunna, and Lee Japan. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right. Mercerised Denim Mercerising for denim is used to increase lustre, by passing the denim through a bath of caustic soda.

It's a process carried out after the denim is woven and vastly different to the more commen method of mercerising yarn. As it significantly increases the cost and lead times of denim production, it is a relatively rare process. (not that many consumers would notice). [from ringring] Microsanding Sanding is basically done 3 ways: Sandblasting, (see below), Machine sanding - just like machines that you'd use to sand a wooden table, and Handsanding aka Handbrushing - just a piece of folded fine sandpaper. All three methods are used in various ways, on the flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards), on the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') and various templates can be used to create a 3D effect. Any sanding can be enhanced with chemical whiteners. [from ringring] Overdye Basically dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of colour. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look. Also can be applied with spraygun or paintbrush for local colouring (ie. if you wanted just 'dirty knees'). [from ringring] Redline Redline refers to a colored warp thread that is run through the selvage edge of denim fabric. This is not indicitive of the quality of the jeans so much as it is a signature of the maker, and a way for Cone Mills to differentiate between the denim they made for different companies. Lee denim had a green (or sometimes blue) warp thread on their selvage, and Wranger used yellow. Right Hand Twill This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans. Ring-Spun The method in which the yarn is produced; ring-spun cotton is spun on a ring instead of more modern method of open-ended spinning. The result is a softer denim, that is more imperfect than open-ended and has individual texture that is often desired by denim admirers. Rope Dying The best method of dying denim, most (should be all) upscale denim manufacturers use this method. It refers to twisting the threads of yard into a rope-like shape, then dipping the rope into a bath of indigo.

It is often dipped multiple times - the more bathing of the yarn, the darker the shade. Sandblasting As it sounds, compressed airguns shoot sand onto jeans to create abrasion. Sometimes a 'tracer' dye is added so that the 'shooter' can more accurately judge the volume and accuracy. Very fast, but quite a clumsy way to achieve fading. [from ringring] Sanforizing Sanforizing denim is a method of stretching and manipulating the cloth in the factory prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimalized. It is important to note if your raw jeans are sanforized or not before determining what size to buy, non-sanforized jeans will shrink 710%, while sanforized jeans will shrink 1-5%. It is often advised to give non-sanforized jeans a warm soak before wearing them to get the shrinking done before you create wear marks on the jeans. Selvage (Selvedge) Denim Selvage and selvedge mean exactly the same thing - different companies spell it differently and there apparently is no "right" way to spell it. It comes from the phrase "self-edge" which refers to the edge being finished by the loom instead of sewn together after weaving. [thanks Geowu]. Selvage is the term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends. The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1976, before Cone Mills sold most of their shuttle looms. Stone washing French husband & wife team, Marithe & Francois Girbaud claim to have pioneered this technique of washing jeans in a machine with small pumice stones. Independently, the Japanese jeans company, Edwin also make this claim. The pumice stones are generally taken from southern Italy (the whitest and most expensive), Turkey and Indonesia (darkest and cheapest). Some claim that washing jeans with dark stones give the jeans a 'dirty' look, although this can be countered somewhat with extra rinsing in the laundry. Unwashed Denim Also called rigid, or raw denim. Typically when denim is manufactured it is sent to a laundry to undergo many washing processes to give it a worn look. Unwashed denim, however, is not washed before it is sold to the customer (although some companies will sell a one-wash jean). It is stiff, and depending on

the weight can feel as though you're walking in sheet-metal. It will also be very dark and will sometimes appear black. Traditionally, all jeans were sold unwashed and it was up to the customer to break them in. [from ringring] Warp Thread Warp threads are the indigo-dyed thread. Also commonly called "surface threads," as they account for a majority of the thread you see on the surface. It is the opposite on the underside of the jeans, where the weft (filler) threads are more visible, and the warp threads are in the minority. They are woven in and out of the weft thread vertically to create the denim twill. Weft (Filler) Thread Weft, or filler, threads are traditionally ecru-colored, however many companies now bleach their weft threads or dye them. The weft is visible mostly on the underside of the denim, but resemble diagonal stripes on the surface. They are woven in and out of the warp threads horizontally to create the denim twill. Whiskering Also known as 'Cat's Whiskers'. These are the crease lines around the crotch. Industrially these can be done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, handsanding and abrasive rods. Same techniques are used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee). [from ringring]

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Alpinestars Technical Denim Collection

Alpinestars Introduces Technical Denim Collection for 2014. The Denim Collection consisting of 5 models feature Kevlar reinforcement in key areas of the jeans, plus an anatomically optimized pre-shaped leg construction, for comfort on and off the bike. The Technical Denim Collection is a hard-wearing and durable technical jean incorporating a versatile knee protection system to enable customization for differing leg lengths.

Key Features: - Regular/comfort cut 12oz denim for a fashionable and long-lasting fit. - Interior Kevlar reinforcement in seat, hip and knee areas offer excellent abrasion and tear resistance in impact areas.

- Internal knee compartment allows adjustment of the CE-certified knee protection to fit various leg lengths. - Removable 5mm hip pad protectors with Velcro attachments for secure, safe fit. - Strong twin stitched main seam construction for added durability. - Pre-shaped leg construction is anatomically optimized for versatile fit. - Customized detailing on metal YKK zip, buttons and rivets. - Stretch microfiber inserts on front pockets for easy access. - Astars leather belt patch and leather logos on front and rear. - Kerry Tech Womens model features optimized female performance fit

Woven Fabrics
For applications where more than one fibre orientation is required, a fabric combining 0 and 90 fibre orientations is useful. Woven fabrics are produced by the interlacing of warp (0) fibres and weft (90) fibres in a regular pattern or weave style. The fabric's integrity is maintained by the mechanical interlocking of the fibres. Drape (the ability of a fabric to conform to a complex surface), surface smoothness

and stability of a fabric are controlled primarily by the weave style. The following is a description of some of the more commonly found weave styles: Plain Each warp fibre passes alternately under and over each weft fibre. The fabric is symmetrical, with good stability and reasonable porosity. However, it is the most difficult of the weaves to drape, and the high level of fibre crimp imparts relatively low mechanical properties compared with the other weave styles. With large fibres (high tex) this weave style gives excessive crimp and therefore it tends not to be used for very heavy fabrics.

Twill One or more warp fibres alternately weave over and under two or more weft fibres in a regular repeated manner. This produces the visual effect of a straight or broken diagonal 'rib' to the fabric. Superior wet out and drape is seen in the twill weave over the plain weave with only a small reduction in stability. With reduced crimp, the fabric also has a smoother surface and slightly higher mechanical properties.

Satin Satin weaves are fundamentally twill weaves modified to produce fewer intersections of warp and weft. The harness number used in the designation (typically 4, 5 and 8) is the total number of fibres crossed and passed under, before the fibre repeats the pattern. A crowsfoot weave is a form of satin weave with a different stagger in the re-peat pattern. Satin weaves are very flat, have good wet out and a high degree of drape. The low crimp gives good mechanical properties. Satin weaves allow fibres to be woven in the closest proximity and can produce fabrics with a close tight weave. However, the styles low stability and asymmetry needs to be considered. The asymmetry causes one face of the fabric to have fibre running predominantly in the warp direction while the other face has fibres running predominantly in the weft direction. Care must

be taken in assembling multiple layers of these fabrics to ensure that stresses are not built into the component through this asymmetric effect.

Basket Basket weave is fundamentally the same as plain weave except that two or more warp fibres alternately interlace with two or more weft fibres. An arrangement of two warps crossing two wefts is designated 2x2 basket, but the arrangement of fibre need not be symmetrical. Therefore it is possible to have 8x2, 5x4, etc. Basket weave is flatter, and, through less crimp, stronger than a plain weave, but less stable. It must be used on heavy weight fabrics made with thick (high tex) fibres to avoid excessive crimping.

Leno Leno weave improves the stability in open fabrics which have a low fibre count. A form of plain weave in which adjacent warp fibres are twisted around consecutive weft fibres to form a spiral pair, effectively locking each weft in place. Fabrics in leno weave are normally used in con-junction with other weave styles because if used alone their openness could not produce an effective composite component.

Mock Leno A version of plain weave in which occasional warp fibres, at regular intervals but usually several fibres apart, deviate from the alternate under-over interlacing and instead interlace every two or

more fibres. This happens with similar frequency in the weft direction, and the overall effect is a fabric with increased thickness, rougher surface, and additional porosity.

Weave Styles - Comparison of Properties

Woven Glass Yarn Fabrics vs Woven Rovings Yarn-based fabrics generally give higher strengths per unit weight than roving, and being generally finer, produce fabrics at the lighter end of the available weight range. Woven rovings are less expensive to produce and can wet out more effectively. However, since they are available only in heavier texes, they can only produce fabrics at the medium to heavy end of the available weight range, and are thus more suitable for thick, heavier laminates.

Published courtesy of David Cripps, Gurit

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