Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
ISBN 0-933490-03-8
Acknowledgments:
My thanks to the many people who contributed their time and energy to this project. With special thanks to: John Burton Ken Butti and John Perlin for permission to reprint material from "Solar Water Heating in California" Pliny Fisk John Golder Horace McKracken Alan Wyatt Peter Zweig My wife for her encouragement and patient proofing.
Credits:
photo production, Black and White Custom Lab typesetting, Aurora Type and Design halftones, Design Enterprises
Olive Street in Los Angeles 1900 with three Climax Solar Water Heaters in view
Progress is like a merry-go-round. We get up on a speckled horse an' th' mechanical pianny plays a chune an' away we go, hollerin'. We think we're travelling like th' divvle but th' man that doesn't care about merry-gorounds knows that we will come back where we were. Finley Peter Dunne 1902
Contents
Chapter 1: An Introduction 2: A History of IPSWH's 3: The Basics of Design: Principles 4: IPSWH Design 5: Operating An IPSWH 6: Backup Heating 7: IPSWH's In Action 8: Building Your Own 9: Commercial IPSWH's 10: Market Potential for IPSWH's 11: Starting an IPS WH Business 12: The Future is for IPSWH's Appendices: 1 - Site Selector 2 - Resources 3 - Recycled Tanks 4 - Performance 5 - Response Form
Chapter 1: An Introduction
The increasing cost and scarcity of oil, gas, and electricity has focused attention on the need for a transition to renewable energy sources. Solar energy will play an essential role in this effort, particularly for domestic and commercial space heating (and cooling) and water heating. This book is about the simplest type of solar water heaterthe integral passive solar water heater. Solar systems for heating space or water can be divided into two classes-passive and active systems. The essential difference is that passive systems need no auxiliary power to operate while active systems are dependent on externally driven fans or pumps. Passive solar systems typically are very simple, low in cost, built with readily available building materials, reliable, durable, and cost-effective. Many passive systems have only one moving part-the sun-which in large part accounts for their reliability. Passive solar water heaters can be further subdivided into two classes: systems in which the functions of heat collection and storage are separate (the thermosiphon flat plate systems), and systems with combined collection and storagethe integral passive solar water heater (IPSWH), pronounced "ipswah"). IPSWH systems are much less widely known despite some inherent advantages, especially simplicity, economy, and resistance to freezing.
This book was written to bring this type of water heater the wider recognition it deserves. It begins with a history of the IPSWH-from the first commercial solar water heater produced in the U.S. to the latest developments both here and abroad. The scientific principles that enable these simple heaters to collect and store solar energy are then presented and explained along with details of the application of these concepts to the design of your own heater. Another chapter presents more "hands on" information you'll need to build your own solar water heater. Alternatively, you can purchase one of the commercial models now manufactured or available in the U.S.
IPSWH's are particularly appealing to the home owner because they can be built at home with recycled materials for less than $50 or with all new materials for less than $500. For the manufacturer and/or installer they are attractive because the feature of combined storage and collection lowers the cost of both production and installation. And for the building contractor or subcontractor, IPSWH's are desirable because of their low cost, ease of installation, durability and reliability (and hence little potential for call-backs).
The opportunities for starting a business based on solar water heating, including market potential, are surveyed in another chapter. The transition to renewable energy sources has few better business opportunities than IPSWH's. The final chapter examines the potential impact of lPSWH's on energy use in the U.S. and the probable course of their development over the next few years. Standard Oil of California's entry into the IPSWH market in 1981 is an indication of future trends and the level of activity that can be expected in the next few years. So start now and join in the transition to renewable fuels with your own IPSWH. And let me know how yours performs-for the next edition of this book.
On to California
In 1895 Kemp sold the exclusive manufacturing rights of the Climax heater systems to two Pasadena businessmen for $250, which suggests it hadn't been one of the Kemp Manufacturing Company's best sellers. W.H. Congers and E.F. Brooks found the sunny climate of southern California more fruitful than Maryland and enjoyed good sales. At this time the Climax Number One sold for $25. The price of alternative energy was high in Pasadena and a buyer could expect the solar heater to pay for itself in less than three years. The manufacturing rights changed hands again in 1898. Mrs. Sarah Robbins paid Congers and Brooks $2,500, an increase in value of ten times in three years and an auspicious sign. Sales increased rapidly and by 1900 over 1,600 Climax heaters had been installed.
Competition for the profitable solar water heating market wasn't slow in developing. The success of the Climax in Pasadena led Frank Walker to conduct his own experiments in solar water heating. In 1898 he applied for a patent on the Walker Combined Solar and Artificial Heat Water Heater. Walker's heater was designed to sit flush in the roof, providing both aesthetic and functional advantages over the exposed Climax. It also included double rather than single glazing. His heater used fewer and larger tanks, typically 30 gallons (113 l) rather than the 8 gallon (30 l) Climax tanks; and the Walker tanks were oriented vertically and connected in series. By setting the tanks in the roof the nighttime heat loss would have been considerably reduced and warmer water would have been available in the morning. Recent experiments have suggested that the vertical orientation would also have improved performance by increasing thermal stratification in the tank. With almost 4 gallons per square foot (163 1 per sq m) the ratio of water to glazing was higher (and hence the performance was lower) than in the Climax. During daytime operation this probably reduced performance and offset most the increased efficiency afforded by the double glazing, vertical tank orientation, and roof protection; but the design would have offered warmer water in the morning because a low glazing to water ratio slowed the rate of nighttime cool down. The Walker solar system was patented with backup connections to a wet back wood stove. This "new" feature probably wasn't new at all but reflected existing practice with Climax installations as made by more experienced plumbers. The Walker system sold for less than $50. It offered some advantages over the Climax heaters and sold well in southern California.
Further refinements
In 1904 Charles Haskell, by then the owner of rights to both the Walker and Climax patents, improved performance further by increasing the glazing area in relation to the water tank volume. This yielded a more rapid warm-up in the morning and hotter water on partly cloudy days. The "Improved Climax" featured a shallow rectangular tank rather than the traditional cylindrical tanks. This rectangular tank sat in the glass covered box on the roof. Support for the tank was provided by vertical metal "z's", which also impeded water flow through the system to insure more thorough heating. Cold feed water was released through a perforated pipe at the bottom of the tank and rose by steps to the perforated outlet pipe at the top of the tank.
In 1909 Haskell's Improved Climax water heater met its match in the "Day and Night" solar water heater developed by William J. Bailey. This was a thermosiphon system, which reduced nighttime cool down by using separate collection and storage areas for solar energy. As events later showed, a thermosiphon system is not the only means for retarding night cool down; but the Climax heater manufacturers failed to develop this competitive feature in their integral passive heaters. They lost more and more sales to the new thermosiphon system until they were out of the market. In 1936, F.A. Brooks conducted a series of tests at the University of California Agricultural Experiment Station in Berkeley on different types of solar water heaters including two types of integral passive solar water heaters. The most basic heater, an exposed bare tank, was found to work best if sloped vertically. As he reported, "Simple, bare water boilers mounted outdoors where they will not be shaded have long been used during the summer for furnishing late afternoon hot showers ... These exposed tanks cool nearly to air temperature at night and are useless before noon."
Much more satisfactory results were obtained in Brooks' experiments using several tanks enclosed in an insulated glass covered box. He found that "a large supply of water above 120F (49C) can be obtained in the afternoon. This system might be used for general domestic hot water if the clothes can be washed in the late afternoon when the water is hottest. During the night the water cools off so rapidly that morning temperatures are too low for clothes washing, though it yet might serve for all other needs."
Like the Climax and Walker models the "Improved Climax" was probably linked to a backup wood, gas, or oil water heating system in most installations.
The three tank IPSWH that Brooks tested is shown along with its performance for two days in September, 1935. He reported that temperatures of over 140F (60C) were obtainable on summer afternoons with morning temperatures of around 100F (38C). His conclusion was that "This system has, however, the advantage of simplicity, high daytime efficiency, and self storage, and is nonfreezing in most of the agricultural areas of California."
incident radiation onto the tanks. He found that the reflectors offered no improvement over simply painting everything black, both methods collecting 724 BTU per sq ft (8 million joule per sq m) on the September days tested. This represents an efficiency of 70 to 75 percent according to his calculations. Brooks also studied the cost of the various solar systems tested, including a flat plate, pipe absorber, three-tank IPSWH, and single tank exposed heater. He found the exposed IPSWH made with a second hand tank offered heating for a negligible cost. The three tank IPSWH was calculated to cost about 60 cents per gallon of storage and to deliver hot water at 1/25 cent per gallon (1936 prices). This was a bargain compared to a homebuilt pipe coil system costing $3 per gallon of capacity and delivering hot water at 1/9 cent per gallon. Assuming 1,000 BTU per gallon as consumed for heating, this translates to a fuel cost of about 11 cents per therm (100,000 BTU), about the price of natural gas at that time. The final cost evaluation was done on a commercial solar system costing $5 per gallon, installed. This was calculated to provide solar heat at a cost of about 1/6 cent per gallon, or an equivalent cost of 6 mills per kwh. Brooks's work was apparently the last passive solar water heater study in the U.S. until the 1970's. Discoveries of natural gas and oil fields and intensive promotion and subsidies for these energy sources virtually eliminated the American solar market. The thriving California solar industry was virtually dead by 1930 and although it enjoyed considerable success when transplanted to Florida, with 60,000 systems installed by 1941, it was on its way out. A freeze on copper halted production during the war and although a brief resurgence was made in the postwar years it was doomed by cheap electricity available from the federally subsidized utilities.
Brooks also did some comparisons of different configurations of plumbing the tanks. He found that if the cold water was routed into the outside tanks and drawn from the center tank, the center tank stayed warm even if 30 gallons (114 I) were drawn at night. He thought this configuration would be advantageous with frequent daytime use of hot water. His tests also included an evaluation of the use of curved polished reflectors under the tanks to focus all the
One of the common modern IPSWH's in Japan is the pipe type IPSWH. This type of heater has been in production for many years and tens. of thousands of them have been installed in Japan and other Asian countries. The Hitachi Hi Heater is a typical pipe heater. It uses six polyethylene pipes, holding 44 gallons (167 l) as the collector/storage in a 3.75 x 8 ft (114 x 224 cm) insulated steel box with polycarbonate glazing. The one third inch (.8 cm) Styrofoam insulation is covered with aluminum foil, which also helps direct the sun to the back of the cylinders. The heater cost about $400 in 1976.
South Africa's high energy prices and favorable climate have stimulated considerable activity in IPSWH's. In addition to many home built systems there are several commercial manufacturers. The most common model is known as the "solar shell." It has a lens shaped 26 gallon (100 l) stainless steel tank with an 8.7 square foot (.81 sq m) Perspex cover. This cost about 260 rand (300 rand installed) in 1978, and provides hot water at a cost of .04 rand per kwh over its ten year life.
Australia also has been the scene of IPSWH activity. The long hot summer and isolated ranches without mains power make conditions ideal for IPSWH's. The "Suntrap" uses a 10 gallon (38 l) copper tank set in an aluminum box with single glazing. It was introduced to the U.S. market in 1978, but had to be re-engineered to meet the higher demand for hot water here. It is now sold as the "SunFlow" water heater.
The small African country of Lesotho has also been the scene of IPSWH activity. The Lehco-op Production Systems group in Maseru introduced a simple IPSWH in 1976. It has worked very well and over a dozen had been installed in 1978. It uses a box shaped galvanized iron tank holding 17 gallons (63 l) set in a pine box with 9 sq ft (.84 sq m) of collection area, either glass or fiberglass. These units cost 60 rand (75 rand installed) in 1978. The energy cost equivalent over their life was calculated as .023 rand per kwh.
New Zealand is blessed with abundant and relatively inexpensive hydroelectric energy, but the low population density has left many outback areas without power. These isolated stations have provided much of the demand for the Sav Solar system. This IPSWH uses double glazing around the 10 gallon (38 l) tank with a large reflector behind. In tests conducted during the winter of 1974 this cylindrical tank system was compared to a thermosiphon flat plate system. The Sav Solar was found to save 5.1 kwh per year per $NZ invested versus only 3.5 kwh for the flat plate system. In 1979 the Sav Solar was introduced to the American market.
Rediscovered
American interest in IPSWH's was kindled by the Arab oil embargo of 1973. This "Energy Crisis" stimulated work on solar applications of all kinds. Steve Baer of Albuquerque, New Mexico has been one of the most influential innovators in passive solar design and has conducted a variety of experiments with simple IPSWH's. He developed what probably represents the most critical advance in IPSWH design-the addition of insulated, reflective shutters to reduce nighttime heat loss and maintain higher temperatures through the night. This not only eliminated the major drawback of the IPSWH but it also reduced freeze potential, thus greatly extending the range of climates where IPSWH's could be used year round. On a visit to Albuquerque in 1974, Jon Hammond, a friend and fellow passive solar enthusiast, noticed the similarity between Baer's IPSWH and a breadbox and coined a new name. By 1975 Baer was offering plans for his Breadbox Water Heater and they began to be built around the V.S.
The most widely known and photographed IPSWH from this time was built by Marshall Hunt in 1976. It included six mobile home water heater tanks set in two insulated boxes. It has been featured in Sunset magazine, Village Homes' Solar House Designs, the First Passive Solar Catalog, and many others. It has also been seen by the thousands of visitors to the innovative Village Homes solar subdivision in Davis.
Jon Hammond carried word of Baer's work back to Davis, California and his Living Systems solar design group. The discussion of it with Professor Emeritus Dr. Loren Neubauer, another Living Systems associate, led to the rediscovery of Brooks' excellent work and generated considerable IPSWH activity in Davis.
Several other reports on IPSWH appeared in 1976 including work by: Horace McKracken, on a horizontal tank (unlidded) system; Ted Lucas, on a similar system; and a one tank vertical sloped system developed by Dihn Kanh. These all helped fuel the revived interest in IPSWH's. In 1977 considerable work on IPSWH's was undertaken. These included two studies done in Davis, California by Bainbridge, Neubauer, Maeda, Melzer, Starr, et. al., which let to further refinements in design including revised plumbing, a better understanding of glazing to volume ratios, and improved seasonal estimates of performance. These results were reported in 1978 along with several other studies on IPSWH's. One of the most interesting reports was prepared by the Union Electric Company in Missouri; it marked the first utility interest in IPSWH's. By 1980 Union Electric has distributed 2,500 sets of IPSWH plans to forty states. Activity has increased steadily every year with more plan sets, new research, and fresh ideas. Some of the more significant entries to the U.S. market in recent years are the Sav Solar in 1979, the Sun Wizard in 1980, and an IPSWH manufactured by Standard Oil of California in 1981. Other noteworthy events have been the development of an automated insulating system in 1980, and the preparation of "How to Get Started in the IPSWH Business" by the State of California Solar Business Office in 1981. The future is very bright for this solar market and a great deal of activity can be expected in the years to come. The optimum design for mass marketing in different climates will undoubtedly evolve thanks to the very attractive economics of the IPSWH. It is the author's hope that this book will contribute to the advancement of this exciting field by stimulating greater activity, more research, and more innovation.
Radiation
Any object at a temperature greater than absolute zero (273C) emits radiation with the wavelength and intensity dependent on temperature. Radiation flows from a warmer object to a cooler object. This would ultimately result in thermal equilibrium if no other energy were added to or taken away from the objects. Radiation is emitted by the sun, from the earth, and from your solar water heater. Shortwave radiation from the sun is collected by your IPSWH for heating. Longwave (thermal) radiation to space-emitted from your IPSWH to the cold night sky, for example-is responsible for much unwanted cooling. Both types of radiation are therefore important in IPSWH design. The graph below shows the ideal curves of raditation emitted from the sun and earth. The sun's path across the sky determines the amount of solar radiation reaching the earth's atmosphere-and therefore varies with the seasons and with different locations on earth. The sun's position is described by its elevation above the horizon, altitude, and by its bearing from the true north, azimuth. The change in elevation and azimuth over the season is critically important in IPSWH design. At 40 north latitude the sun is at an altitude of 30 at noon on December 21 and almost 70 during the summer. In summer it traverses an arc of 240 from east to west while in winter it covers only 120. Not all of the radiation striking the edge of the earth's atmosphere reaches the surface of the earth. The reduction in energy is primarily due to reflection and absorptions by carbon dioxide and water vapor in the atmosphere. The actual amount of direct radiation received varies with the atmospheric content, cloudiness, and the solar angles (which determine path length). On the average, 31 percent of the solar radiation to the atmosphere reaches the earth's surface as direct radiation. The radiation that reaches the earth after reflection or refraction in the atmosphere is known as diffuse radiation. Again, the amount received will vary with the atmospheric content, cloudiness, and solar angles. On the average about 22 percent of the solar radiation to the atmosphere reaches the earth as diffuse radiation. The total of the diffuse and direct components of solar radiation reaching the ground is known as the global radiation. (The remaining 47 percent of solar radiation is absorbed by particles in the atmosphere or reflected off them back into space.) On a cloudy day little direct radiation may be received and diffuse radiation may account for almost all of the energy reaching the earth's surface. Diffuse radiation is often assumed for simplicity to be uniformly distributed over the sky, but the intensity is in fact usually much stronger near the sun.
The available solar radiation for the U.S. and the world is shown in the accompanying maps. The actual amount received at your site may vary considerably because of local microclimatic effects and local obstructions. The determination of available sunshine is described in more detail in Chapter 4.
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Radiation at wavelengths longer than 3 microns is referred to as thermal radiation. This is an important element of IPSWH design as it covers much of the energy exchange within a collector and unwanted radiant cooling of the collector. In addition to the shortwave radiation received directly or indirectly from the sun, the earth also receives thermal radiation from the water and gas molecules and dust particles in the atmosphere. The difference between the total radiation received, and that radiated back from the earth into space is referred to as the net outgoing radiation when more is radiated from the earth than to the earth. This net outgoing radiation is thermal radiation, primarily at wavelengths between 6 and 15 microns. Maximum net outgoing radiation will occur to a cold, clear night sky. In Blue Hill, Massachusetts F.A. Brooks compiled a table of variation in net outgoing radiation to the cold night sky as a function of the zenith angle. He found that the greatest radiation loss occurs directly overhead (the zenith) and that the rate was high down to about 20 degrees above the horizon. Clouds can greatly reduce net outgoing radiation to the night sky because they emit thermal radiation to the earth from the atmosphere and thus increase the total radiation received. The exact effect depends on the height of the clouds, their density, and temperature. This blocking of outgoing radiation by clouds can help reduce the night radiation loss from an uncontrolled IPSWH, i.e., one without some form of glazing control. Trees, walls and other structures can also significantly decrease night sky cooling. The reduction in radiative loss depends on the configuration of the obstruction and on its placement. Unfortunately, most objects which will reduce radiative loss will also block incoming sunlight unless they are movable and operate only at night. Materials vary in their ability to emit radiation. The emittance of materials is important in IPSWH design because outgoing radiation loss from the IPSWH can be reduced by choosing materials which emit little radiation. Materials that collect energy effectively yet emit little energy are known as selective surfaces. The table below presents the emittance (relative to a 100% "perfect" emittor) for various materials that may be used in an IPSWH.
When radiation strikes a surface, it can be either absorbed, transmitted, or reflected. If it stays in the material it is absorbed; if it passes through the material it is transmitted, and if it bounces off the material it is reflected. The properties of various materials may be quite different and materials must be chosen to ensure that desired performance is achieved. For example, the collector should maximize absorption; the glazing should maximize transmission of incoming radiation yet minimize transmission of outgoing radiation; and the whole assembly should minimize unwanted reflection. Radiation striking an object is absorbed if the energy is retained by the material. For example, a black hose left in the sun heats up as it absorbs energy from the sun. The percentage of incoming radiation that is absorbed by a material is referred to as its absorptance and is a measure of the ease with which a material or surface collects energy. The table below presents absorptance for various materials in sunlight:
The high absorptance and low cost of black paint makes it a good choice for IPSWH's. The selective surface foils are also good candidates for IPSWH use, particularly if no lids will be used. Ideally we would like a material with high absorptance and very low emittance. Some of the new selective surface foils look quite attractive in this regard, particularly for IPSWH's without movable insulation. Stickney and Nagy found use of a selective surface foil could reduce night heat loss 30 percent and increase daytime gain 25 percent.
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Radiation passing through glazing material is said to be transmitted. Transmittance varies not only for different materials but also varies with the wavelength of the radiation. It is therefore desirable to know the spectral transmittance of glazing for passive solar water heating systems. Ideally, the glazing should be very transparent to incoming shortwave radiation but opaque to outgoing long wave (thermal) radiation, because radiant losses may account for over 70 percent of collector heat loss. Typical spectral transmission curves are shown below for common glazing materials. New materials such as "Heat Mirror'' are designed to allow shortwave radiation in, yet prevent thermal radiation from escaping. Some of these materials allow 90 percent of the radiation in (as good as glass) yet reflect 90 percent of the thermal radiation that is trying to escape. These materials are very attractive for IPSWH glazing.
Reflection occurs when radiation bounces off a surface. Reflection can be specular or diffuse. A mirror exhibits specular reflection while white paint exhibits diffuse reflection. The term reflectance describes the ability of a given surface to reflect radiation. The reflectance. of a surface is generally given as the percentage of incoming (incident) radiation which is reflected. Reflectance for a given surface also varies with the wavelength of the incident radiation. The reflectance of a material can also be described for both specular and diffuse radiation. To ensure maximum collection of solar radiation, the design of an IPSWH should minimize unwanted reflection. However, a carefully designed reflector-or a natural reflector such as a snowfield-can be used to increase the solar radiation received.
The index of refraction of the material will affect the manner in which the radiation is transmitted. The index of refraction determines how much incoming radiation entering the material at an acute angle will be transmitted directly through and how much of it will be refracted (i.e., deflected from a straight path). A prism provides a good example of refraction-it separates sunlight into the different wavelengths and gives the familiar rainbow. Glass has a lower index of refraction than plastic and hence is typically better at transmitting radiation entering at acute angles. However, the ease of molding and shaping plastic into complex shapes can offset this deficiency.
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The following table gives the diffuse reflectance of various surfaces in visible wavelengths. These figures can help you determine how much solar energy will be received at the IPSWH. Reflectance can be especially important for an IPSWH built into a south wall or greenhouse in colder climates (receiving less direct radiation due to the short days and low angle of the winter sun) as the solar radiation received can be increased by using either natural or artificial reflectors.
Shiny surfaces such as aluminum foil demonstrate specular reflectance. The following table gives the reflectance for surfaces with high specular components, again for visible wavelengths. These can be used as exterior reflectors to increase the solar gain of an IPSWH. Use of interior reflectorized surfaces within the IPSWH collector may also be warranted with some designs. The key is whether more energy will be reflected out than gained by redirection. A well insulated box may do just as well if it is all black inside, as resulting thermal exchange will be primarily to the tanks.
Adding the global and the reflected radiation gives us the total solar radiation received on the surface. This is particularly important for IPSWH's in the higher latitudes where a snowy surface south of a vertical, or near vertical, IPSWH may add 50 percent to the total solar radiation in the coldest month.
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Conduction
Next in importance after radiation is conduction or the transfer of energy from molecule to molecule. Insulation reduces conductive heat transfer and is therefore an important consideration in the design and placement of the IPSWH. Insulation is described by its resistance to heat flow, or R value. Typical R values are shown below; the higher the R value the better the insulating value. After the principles concerning energy collection, the next consideration in IPSWH design is energy storage the ability to store the absorbed energy in the form of heat. Fortunately, water is an excellent material for storing heat. It can store one BTU per pound per degree F of temperature rise (4.18 J per g per K). Thus the tanks of water provide thermal storage for the collected solar energy. There may also be some cases where a phase change material (pcm) could be incorporated in the IPSWH. These pcm's can store two to four times as much energy as water and might be used to keep operating temperatures at 120F to 140F (49C to 60 C) during the day with extended high temperatures at night as the pcm gives up its stored energy. This would also increase collector efficiency by reducing daytime energy losses.
The insulating value of a material is also influenced by air films and the air flow across the material. A stable air film will increase resistance as much as 0.7 R on a vertical surface. If the air film is moving this increase may drop to 0.2 R. Glazing can be a major source of heat loss for an IPSWH because even with double pane glass the R value may be only 1.8 including the air films. Some form of glazing control or insulated cover is desirable for an IPSWH in all but the warmest climates. These can be either automatic or manual and can operate either inside or outside the IPSWH.
The understanding of these basic principles of radiation and radiative heat transfer, conduction and convection will help you design a better IPSWH. They should also help you make your home more energy efficient in general.
Convection
Although less important than radiation and conduction, convection-the transfer of energy through air flow-can still be a factor in IPSWH design. This may be flow caused by local differences in density of air (cooler air is heavier) or weather patterns with characteristic winds. The convective flow of air in and out of an IPSWH is known as infiltration. It is affected by design of glazing, walls, framing joints, and movable insulation. Careful detailing, caulking, and sealing can minimize convective heat loss even in areas with consistently high winds.
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If your design satisfies these six rules your IPSWH will work well and provide you with inexpensive solar heated water. The following pages explain more fully how these rules apply to the design of an IPSWH.
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If you are just planning to build one IPSWH or wish to be more self-reliant (or cheap) you can make your own site evaluator using the directions in Appendix 1. In addition to determining how often the sun will shine on the IPSWH, you might like to estimate how much energy from this sun will reach your collectoraccounting for local and area storms, clouds, and fog. The map of solar radiation shown in Chapter 3 will provide some idea of how much energy you can expect, but temper this with your own observations of local conditions-and the results of your site evaluation. For more detailed information you may wish to consult national, state, and local climate resource centers. The U.S. National Climate Center in the Federal Building, Asheville, NC 28801 and the National Solar Heating and Cooling Information Center, toll free 800-523-2929, are good places to start. This climate information may modify your design. For example, if morning fog is common you might choose a more western exposure for your IPSWH. Alternatively, if your site is foggy or cloudy most of the winter, or shaded by a hill, you might decide to build a summer-only heater. And so on.
Once you have surveyed your homestead and selected the site and orientation for your IPSWH, you must make another decision that will affect how much sun reaches your IPSWH-the glazing orientation and slope. For a year round system the best glazing orientation is usually facing south and the most efficient glazing slope (angle from the horizontal) is equal to the latitude of the site. (The best slope puts the glazing at right angles to the sun's rays, and the angle of the sun varies with latitude.) For a heater used primarily during the summer, a shallower angle (i.e., closer to horizontal) is preferred and south orientation is not as important. The effect of slightly varying these slope angles is not catastrophic, as shown in Table 4-1, and aesthetics may persuade you to accept a less than perfect orientation with slightly reduced performance. However, if you get too far off, it may not be a very worthwhile investmentand your money might be better spent doing something else to improve your home's energy efficiency.
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You can also use reflectors to increase solar gain. These can be either natural (bright south snow) or manmade (white, polished aluminum or mirrored panels, fixed or movable). You can probably double your gain with careful use of reflectors.
Keep in mind the weight of the completed heater when you choose a location for it. If you build a 90 gallon (341 l) heater it may weigh more than 600 lbs (272 kg) when full of water. A lightly built roof will require additional bracing to an interior bearing wall. If no good location in the sun is available on your roof or backyard you may want to build a little platform in the sun for your IPSWH. Quite often this can be integrated with an air lock entrance or shelter for an entrance. Four 4 x 4 inch (10 x 10 cm) posts provide more than enough support for even a fairly large IPSWH.
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The loss back through the glazing can also become important when it is cool outside, and multiple glazing may be desirable. The accompanying map shows suggested layers of glazing for an IPSWH. In milder climates multiple glazings all around the tank may suffice, with no need for an insulated box; this would allow collection from more sun angles. Horace McKracken has used another method to reduce these heat losses. He uses a thin layer of fiberglass insulation, with a transmittance of 85 percent, to improve the performance of the glazing assembly. He believes that savings outweigh the loss in transmission. This insulation might also be placed between glazing layers rather than right on the tank.
The well insulated box must be well sealed or all the hot air will leak out through the cracks. Caulk and seal all connections and joints with a high quality caulk. In areas that will get hot use a silicone caulk that won't break down under higher temperatures.
A new glazing product will be available by the time you read this. "Heat Mirror'' is a specially developed plastic which is transparent to incoming short wave radiation but virtually opaque to thermal radiation. It can be used in the double glazing of an IPSWH. It will be extremely valuable in IPSWH design as it will make lids less important in marginally cool areas, and in cold areas it will make an IPSWH with lids perform better. Glass is preferred for glazing in an IPSWH because it is very durable. Tempered glass is stronger and safer than regular glass, but more expensive. You may also wish to consider "solar" fiberglass, polycarbonate, or acrylic, because they are lighter, easier to cut and handle, and more resistant to damage. Their life times are generally shorter, however, and they are petroleum based products which can be expected to become more expensive in the future. Make sure the product you select can handle temperatures of 180 to 220F (82C to 93C). Seconds or used tempered glass can usually be found at reasonable prices, on the order of $6 to $15 for a single 46 x 76 inch (117 x 193 cm) pane and maybe $40 to $60 for the same in double pane. Patio doors are being upgraded by many people and the take outs are often cluttering up the retrofit shops.
Your IPSWH with good insulation, tight seal, and multiple glazing will heat up well during the day but can still lose heat at night. This cooling off results primarily from radiation to space and conduction through the glazing. In mild climates or in summer these losses will be acceptable, but in cooler periods or where warmer water is desired in the morning the losses must be reduced. Heat losses can best be reduced with some form of movable insulation-either inside the glazing, between the glazing, or outside. The easiest place to include this movable insulation is usually the inside-because there is no need to account for wind, rain, hail, ice or snow. This interior movable insulation can be either a drape of some kind, a series of slats or shutters, or a roll shade. Some of the possible mechanisms for controlling shutters and shades include: heat motors; Freon transfer systems; automatic camper vent operators; electric trailer tongue jacks; air shock absorbers; bicycle pumps and bicycle tubes; hydraulic lifters; casement window operators; vent actuators; bicycle, car, and aircraft control cables; bicycle gears and hubs; rubber bands (rubber contracts as it warms up); photovoltaic motors; etc. Some of the possibilities are suggested in the accompanying diagrams.
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Exterior movable insulation (insulated covers or shutters) can also be practical. They offer the advantage of increasing collector area if the inside of the lids are reflectorized. These covers will prove most practical where snow loads and high winds are less common. They can fold down, up, or to the side in a variety of ways. These exterior shutters can also be manual or automatic. Where access is difficult an automatic system might be preferred. For a readily accessible system a simple manual lid will prove workable. The rigid forms are attractive insulation for these movable covers because of their strength and high thermal resistance. Build a strong wood or metal frame with aluminum or wood skins and provide plenty of hinge for strength. Use weatherstrip to get a tight seal when it's closed.
The two ends of the spectrum are a simple manual control, requiring little money or sophistication, but considerable force; and an automatic photovoltaic drive requiring very little energy but considerable expense and sophistication. The tradeoffs are always there, so consider the options before deciding. If you want to automate shutters and drapes throughout the house you might consider a home controller using signals in the 110v lines to trigger operations.
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Insulation between the glazing may also become more common as commercial systems are developed. You might also build your own although this will be more challenging. Venetian type blinds and interlocking slats have been available for many years in Europe and Israel and might provide some good ideas on how to do this type of insulation. The "Bead Wall" developed by Steve Baer is another method of insulation between glazing layers. His system uses blowers to move Styrofoam beads between glazing for insulation at night and then blows them out to storage in the morning. Paul Shippee at Colorado Sunworks has used this system on IPSWH's. Contact Steve Baer at Zomeworks, P.O. Box 712, Albuquerque, NM 87103 for information on "Bead Wall."
Another interesting way to reduce heat losses has been developed by Conrad Heeschen and others. They turn the collector over so it faces down and use a reflector to guide solar radiation to it. This approach may be worth pursuing further, particularly if the building roof or other building element can be used as a reflector.
A second approach to reduce heat loss is to locate the IPSWH in a greenhouse or in the house itself. This not only reduces the heat loss during the day and at night, but at night would also benefit from the movable insulation system (e.g., insulated shutters) provided for the greenhouse or house glazing. Steve Baer has also designed IPSWH's with the tank in a skylight assembly for preheating only.
The use of a selective surface will also reduce heat lossespossibly with less cost and inconvenience than movable insulation. With a selective surface absorptance may be a little less but emissivity is much lower, 10 percent versus 88 percent for black paint, and the net gain over a day will be higher even if no glazing or movable insulation is used. For more information on selective surfaces see Appendix 2, Products. The design of the heater can also help keep the water as warm as possible for the user. Vertical tanks allow greater stratification to occur-keeping temperatures as warm as possible. Reducing internal mixing with baffles and carefully designed cold water entry can also help. A controlled antimixing entry can be made by directing entry water in a manner that will affect only the colder water at the bottom or end of the tank.
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A more precise determination of the amount of storage required will depend on the expected water use, climate, type of IPSWH, and type of backup system (if any). Demand depends in large measure on the family profile of the users, the type of facilities in use, and the care with which they are used. A family with children (especially if still in diapers) would be expected to use more hot water than a family without children. The time of demand also affects IPSWH storage and design requirements. The best performance can be achieved by using hot water primarily after midday. This allows the highest temperatures to develop. If hot water is wanted in the early morning then use should either be scheduled to allow recovery in the late afternoon or sufficient capacity should be left after evening use. Typical hot water demand on a wash and bath day for a family of five was described by F.A. Brooks in 1936:
If washing and bathing for adults is assumed every third day than average use is about 34 gallons (129 I) per person per day. This study in 1936 is surprisingly representative of current use. The following table shows current use estimates for the United States.
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The use of water conserving fixtures can considerably reduce the waste of hot water. The key items are flow restrictors for showers and faucets, which are fortunately inexpensive. Water conserving appliances are often slightly more expensive but will save much more than they cost over their lifetimes. The following table suggests the savings possible using conservation devices.
Even if you do not have any solar access for an lPSWH you can still implement your own water conservation strategy-to do more with less.
The careful use of hot water can add further savings. These additional steps include hand washing dishes and batching wash loads carefully so cold water can be used when it will suffice.
And if very careful use is combined with the best conservation minded fixtures and appliances, even more dramatic savings can be achieved. This level of saving will require "ecotopian" consciousness and custom built fixtures-but is worth careful consideration from anyone concerned about the future of our tattered spaceship Earth.
Source for previous four tables: The Integral Urban House, Sierra Club Books; and estimates by the author based in part on work by the Minimum Cost Housing Group at McGill University.
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The insulation should have a high resistance to heat flow and be very durable. The best system is one with one to two inches (5 cm) of urethane foam with a plastic or aluminum jacket. Less costly but also less effective is Armaflex pipe insulation, which must be painted where it is exposed to the sun and elements. Inside the building, fiberglass or foam can be used to insulate the pipes.
You can also improve the performance of the system by scheduling water use to fit supply. Shower, wash and launder when water is the hottest-during the afternoon or early evening. Some IPSWH's will work so well that water temperature will be high enough to be scalding. This is a particular danger to children. For $12 to $15 a tempering valve between the heater and point of use can prevent any hazards from overly hot water.
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You can ensure a good appearance by carefully choosing paints and preparing surfaces for painting. Make sure you have cleaned surfaces well, 'se the appropriate primer (or primers), and apply finish coats that will withstand high temperatures. Proper painting will virtually eliminate exterior corrosion and weathering. Internal corrosion must also be reduced or prevented. Be particularly careful if a variety of materials are used in the system-if dissimilar materials are used, make sure dielectric breaks are included to reduce corrosion. I prefer to use copper as much as possible to reduce corrosion; and where it is joined to galvanized pipe or tanks I use plastic dielectric unions to prevent accelerated corrosion.
The most common problems with glazing involve the hold down system. With plastics the error is usually failure to accommodate expansion correctly-resulting in cracks in the plastic. These can be avoided by allowing the plastic to move with oversize screw holes or clamps. With glass the more common problem is failure of the hold down strips or battens and corrosion of screws and fasteners.
The tank or collector itself must also be protected to resist corrosion. Galvanizing alone is insufficient in most areas. With the high temperatures in the box most water is fairly corrosive and galvanized tanks may last less than two years. Glass lined or stone lined tanks are better but even they should be protected with a sacrificial anode. This anode is of a less corrosion resistant material and saves the tanks and pipes. A look at these anodes from IPSWH's in use 3 to 4 years in Davis, California revealed considerable loss of material and it might be very good practice to replace them every 3 to 5 years.
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Freezing can also wreak havoc on IPSWH's although they are less sensitive than most other solar systems. Even very simple IPSWH's will survive, occasional drops to 20F (6.7C) or less. Some are reputed to be safe as low as OF (17.8C) or lower but more experience is needed to really predict how they will do. The tanks' high thermal mass and movable insulation (if used) will give the system some protection from freezing. However, in colder areas some form of freeze protection will be required. The most common method is simply draining the heater during the coldest part of the winter. Make sure it will drain completely by installing an air vent or valve to let air in to replace the water when it drains. You might also have an automatic draindown valve installed so the system will drain itself only when it gets cold. Automatic draindown would not only be less, trouble but it would also allow the system to provide heating for much of the winter. The most sensitive part of most IPSWH installations is the piping to and from the heater-and this must be very well insulated and designed for complete drainage if drainage is to be used for freeze protection. Make sure the pipe runs consistently downhill to a drain-and drain it carefully. The connecting pipes in the heater box are also more susceptible than the tanks and should be insulated in areas where freezing may be a problem.
In much colder areas the heater may need more powerful freeze protection. First consider putting the heater right in the house or greenhouse. If that isn't possible you might have to use a heat exchanger set in a freeze proof liquid filled collector tank. If a single walled heat exchanger is used then the antifreeze must be nontoxic. Propylene glycol is acceptable, ethylene glycol (car antifreeze) is not as it is highly toxic.
Other options for freeze protection have also been used and may be worth considering. In milder climates you can leave the electrical heater element in the IPSWH-and have it provide both backup heating and freeze protection. Another strategy would be a vent or door that can be opened to allow heated air from the house into the IPSWH. A gas furnace flue might also be used as a heat source.
Phase change materials may also be used for freeze protection. These could change phase at 70F or 80F (21C to 27C) or lower and could be put in the collector box as a liner. As the heater cooled off these would give up their stored heat to keep it above freezing. And finally, consider what can happen if something does leak (because of weather leaks, corrosion, or freezing). Put a drip pan with drain to protect the heater and the house beneath it. These are most commonly made of galvanized iron sheet with turned up edges but they could be fiberglassed wood or plastic. Bent Nail Construction used a gutter running across the bottom of the inclined tank bed in one heater to collect water from any possible leak and carry it outside. For a ground mounted heater this is not as important-but the drainpan can prevent damage to the wood box and probably should be included.
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Review
To sum up the basics, then: Put your heater in the sun, and use proper slope, orientation, and reflectors to maximize the solar radiation received. Paint it black, or use selective surfaces. Put it in an insulated, weather sealed box with glazing (layers) and movable insulation. Use about 30 gallons of water per 15 sq ft of collector per person (114 I per 1.4 sq m) Make a short as possible run to a conserving water system with insulated pipes. Build it to last, with careful construction, corrosion resistance, freeze protection, and drainage. The following sections examine some design considerations for both the very inexpensive and advanced IPSWH's. Design is still guided by these basic rules.
Where cans are unavailable, the heater could be made with ceramics. If the potter is skilled, a large container can be constructed. This could be fired in a reducing atmosphere for a very good integral black .. The Pueblo Indian technique would probably be suitable in many areas of the world.
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Plastic bags can also be used as solar heaters. Ideally one side will be black, the other clear. Insulated boxes, glazing, and insulated lids will help these heaters work better. Three examples of this type are described later in this book: "The $2.50 Garbage Bag Heater" developed by McGill University, the commercially produced "Solar Pillow" from Japan, and the "Sun Shower" from the U.S.
If pipe is available locally it could also be used for building IPSWH's. Two inch (5 cm) or larger diameter pipe is desirable. Galvanized, copper and some types of plastic pipe would all be suitable. Used well casing might prove usable if it is available.
In more affluent countries, a type of used prefabricated insulated box is available-old refrigerator cases. The refrigerator motor and shelves are removed and a black tank is placed in the box. The glazing can be set down in the box so the lid can still be closed in the winter. Simple IPSWH's can be built using truck, bus, or auto inner tubes. For the simplest version the tube can be cut and tied off to form a black sausage of water. If materials are available for vulcanizing, gluing, or pipe fitting, then fittings can be installed on the tank for easier filling and use.
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Selective surfaces and films almost certainly will be used for many more IPSWHs in the near future. A combination of a selective surface on the tank, to reduce emissivity, and selective film in the glazing to reduce radiative losses would considerably extend the performance and range of the simplest IPSWH-without adding much to the cost of mass production. For example, the tank might be coated with selective surface foil with "Heat Mirror" double glazing to effectively reduce heat loss 50 percent or more.
Phase change materials may also be used to improve IPSWH performance. Using a 120F (49C) phase change material in a core, for example, could maximize collector efficiency by keeping collector surface temperatures as low as possible. At night when the lids are closed, the phase change material would give up its heat to the water-keeping it hot much longer. Some of the paraffins are good candidates for this. I hope to conduct some experiments in the coming year with a recycled gas water heater with the core filled with paraffin. Other materials might prove even more useful.
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The thermal diode, developed by Shawn Buckley, may also prove desirable for IPSWHs. This thermal diode uses a special tank configuration with an oil layer on the water. This oil allows circulation to occur in only one direction-effectively stopping reverse circulation at night and greatly reducing losses from the back of the tank, as shown. Standard Oil of California is using this principle in their IPSWH.
Special techniques for freeze protection may also prove desirable. An obvious option is the use of a tank within a tank heat exchanger IPSWH. The exterior tank would hold the nontoxic antifreeze solution, while the inner tank would hold the potable water. The inner tank might be ribbed or finned for better heat transfer.
Another interesting and potentially very useful advanced technique uses heat pipes to collect the energy from the sun. The heat pipe then transfers this energy to a well insulated storage tank. The heat pipe only transfers heat efficiently in one direction so night heat losses are very low. Tom Feldman has been working with this concept for several years and is using it in his commercial IPSWH.
Another feasible freeze protection measure might be the inclusion of an air filled bladder in the tank allowing the ice room to expand without splitting the tank. I hope to conduct tests on this method later this year.
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Another interest of mine is the integrated house water system with roof collection, cistern, IPSWH, filters, and possibly solar still. The application would be most attractive at first for remote sites, but could gradually be included in all new construction. A possible system is shown in the accompanying drawing. I am currently seeking funding or clients for this type of system.
The integration of photovoltaic cells in an IPSWH is also worth evaluating. Their efficiency drops off at higher temperatures. An IPSWH at 120F (49C) would keep them cool enough for good efficiency-and would protect them from the elements.
And finally, the IPSWH might be a very good heat sink for your refrigerator or freezer coil. The air behind a refrigerator often reaches 120F (49C) and has much lower heat capacity than water at the same temperature. This type of interconnection would be particularly helpful in restaurants and other applications with high refrigeration and hot water demand.
These are by no means all of the possibilities for advanced IPSWH's-although I hope I've picked at least a few of them. I hope this section will inspire you to propose other concepts and, more important, try them out. The cost of experimentation is low-and it may make a real difference for all of us.
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The next level of IPSWH, with manually operated insulated cover, may require little attention during the summer, when nights are warm, but may need its lid opened in the morning on sunny days and closed at night and on very dark and cloudy days the rest of the year. In quite cold climates even this type of heater may need to be drained in the winter.
And finally, at the more sophisticated end of the spectrum, the automated IPSWH, you may need to do very little except to occasionally check the controls and oil moving parts. The performance of some of these automated IPSWH's may be improved by changing the reflector angle several times a year to increase collection. Of even greater importance in wringing the optimal performance out of your IPSWH is the scheduling of hot water use. Fortunately, the long hot summer days, when we need more showers and wash more clothes, are the best for IPSWH performance, and plenty of hot water will usually be available even in the morning. However, in the fall (or winter further south) less water will be heated, and adjustments in your use pattern can help your heater meet more or all of your hot water demands. The most common adjustment you may want to make is changing your showers and baths to afternoon or evening. As the performance charts in Chapter 7 show, this may mean the difference between 90F water (too cool) and 120F water (32C and 49C). Washing can be done with cool water and "all temperature" cleanser, and clothes can be hung out to dry on your solar clothes dryer. Of if you use a gas or electric dryer, they can be washed with hot water in the evening. Then the clothes dryer will in most cases be operating with off peak electricity-which is cheaper in some utility price structures.
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If wood is not readily available or you would prefer not to deal with it, you might choose to install more conventional electric or gas backup water heating. If heat loss is expected to be minimal-such as for mild climate IPSWH's, IPSWH's located in greenhouses or in the house, or IPSWH's with very well insulated boxes and lids-you might consider removing the existing conventional heater and adding the backup heating elements to the IPSWH itself. This will save money, free space in the house for other uses, and reduce indoor air pollution (if the conventional heater was gas). John Golder is currently trying an electric immersion heater set in oil in the sealed off flue of an old gas water heater tank. This may prove to be one of the better approaches. You might also simply leave in the upper heating element of the tank and use that for the boost.
For better economy with this type of setup, you might want to use a clock timer on the backup heater so that it only heats water when you'll be using it. A cutoff switch linked to the lids might also be wise-so you're not electrically heating the water when the lids are open. If gas is available and less costly than electricity then consider a gas backup heater. This might be located so that the exhaust heat is routed through a heat exchanger in the IPSWH box. Or, for certain types of IPSWH's, the gas burner can be left on the final tank, which should be mounted vertically and have an exterior air source. The exhaust stack should have an automatic damper to avoid heat losses when the burner is off.
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In systems with a regular backup heater with tank, you should turn off the backup heater and bypass it when the IPSWH is providing enough heat. Experience has shown that leaving the remote storage tank full of hot water adds unnecessary losses to the system, and you are better off not doing it. Make the valving simple to understand, with color codes keyed to instructions marked on a nearby wall, or it won't be used properly when you leave or sell the house. Another option which avoids these storage losses completely is the flash or line water heater. These are widely used in Europe and have only recently. become more available in the U.S. These heaters use energy to heat the water as it goes through them and don't have a storage tank. Experience suggests that they may save forty percent of the energy used in a conventional heater. Unfortunately, many of the flash heaters available today have a fixed temperature rise. That is, if the water comes in at 60F (16C) it goes out at 120F (49C). If it comes in at 140F (60C) it goes out at 200F (93C). This type of heater can be dangerous with a solar heater unless a point of use mixing value is used. This valve automatically sets the temperature by mixing cold and hot water before it comes out the faucet.
Flash heaters with thermostats should become more readily available in the future and would make a very good backup for an IPSWH. You can hasten this by writing the manufacturers in Appendix 2 and asking them for a thermostatted flash water heater for use with solar systems. A final option worth considering is the very small, very hot water heater typified by Emerson's "Hot Tap." This one quart heater provides limited quantities of approximately 180F (82C) water at the sink. It makes a good booster for dishwater if the solar water is not hot enough. It is also excellent for making coffee, tea, or soup. It can be switched with a wall switch so it is on only when you will use it.
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This chapter includes descriptions, diagrams and photos of working IPSWH's around the world. These are roughly ranked in order of increasing complexity and cost. The information on each was as complete as I could make it. Performance figures are often subjective and are not necessarily comparable, but do give some measure of the system's performance in a given climate. In future editions of this book I hope to provide information and performance data on many other IPSWHs. If you have already built, or are planning to build, an IPSWH please send me details and photos at P.S.I. c/o IPSWH Book Update, P.O. Box 722, Davis, CA 95617, U.S.A. Thank you.
Climate Data
The climate data provided with each heater design will help you understand what its performance means in relation to your own climate. Some data was provided by the designers but the majority was taken from the ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals. The Summer Design Dry Bulb Temperature represents the dry bulb high temperature equaled or exceeded during 5 percent of the hours between June and September in the U.S. and overseas. The Canadian data is for July alone. The Daily Outdoor Range is the difference between the average maximum and average minimum during the warmest month at each station. And the Winter Design Temperature represents the low temperature equaled or exceeded during one percent of the total hours between December and February for the U.S. and overseas. The Canadian data is for January alone. These should provide for some comparison between sites and systems, but remember that microclimatic variations can be significant.
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1979
35
An IPSWH Shower
1979
As I mentioned earlier, the first use of IPSWHs was probably for showers using the simple black can in the sun. The principle still works and its application still makes sense. Lyle Carey of Shanadoah Holler, up in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, uses an IPSWH for his solar showers and is very pleased with it. A high spring allows gravity feed to a black 55 gallon (208 1) drum resting on a 6.5 ft (2 m) tall platform built with small oak poles. A pipe nipple in the bottom leads through a valve to a shower head. The pipe nipple was screwed into a smaller hole in the base and sealed with tub sealant. If tools were handy it could be brazed and welded instead. A plastic sheet provides privacy and reduces heat loss-of the showeree. The water was warm enough for a shower the second day. And as he says, "it sure beats a little dish pan" bath. Cost, including drum and fittings, was less than $7. Source: Lyle Carey, "Outdoor Solar Shower," Farmstead Magazine, no. 32, Summer 1980. Backup water heater: wood stove Freeze protection: draindown Location: Shanadoah Holler, Arkansas 36N 94W 2,000 ft Nearest data: Fort Smith Summer design dry bulb 5%: 96F (36C) Days per year at 90F (32C) or above: 87 HDD: about 3,188
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An IPSWH in India
1974
The need for an inexpensive, yet effective solar water heater for India has been realized for many years. R.S. Chauhan and V. Kadambi evaluated the various types of solar water heaters and concluded that an IPSWH would be the best alternative for India. They therefore developed an inexpensive tank type collector which can be built without welding using only glass, galvanized iron sheet, wood, glass wool, and simple hardware. The details of construction are shown in the accompanying drawing. A light insulated lid was developed to reduce night heat loss. Performance was monitored under a variety of conditions and modes. Circulating the water with a pump showed little advantage. Typically water reached 122 to 140F (50 to 60C) at 11 to 12 noon, 140 to 158F (60 to 70C) at 12 noon to 1 p.m., and 158 to 176F (70 to 80C) at 1 to 2 p.m. The maximum temperature recorded was 187F (86C) at 3:30 p.m. with an ambient air temperature of 95F (35C). With the insulated lid installed, water temperatures of 131 to 135F (55 to 57C) were recorded at 7 a.m. after night cool down from temperatures of 165 to 171F (74 to 77.5C) at 8 p.m. the night before. Efficiency was calculated to be about 65 percent if the use kept tank water temperature below 140F (600C). A second layer of glass was found desirable to maintain efficiency at tank temperatures above 167F (75C).
m) 40
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1980
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Little Egg
1980
The Little Egg IPSWH was developed by the designers at Net Energy and built by Solar Energy Trainees under Net Energy supervision. It has two 30 gallon (114 l) glass lined tanks inclined vertically within the insulated box. It has about 25 sq it (2.3 sq m) of collector area, with two glazing layers. The exterior is Filon fiberglass and the inside is Tedlar film. The insulated box is wood framed and shaped like a quarter of a cylinder with a four foot (1.2 m) radius. The back is white, the sides are reflective foil. Materials for the heater cost around $400. The heater box is mounted on the ground, standing on blocks. It serves as a preheater for a conventional electric system. It is expected to provide 40 to 60 percent of the hot water for the year. Location: Fortuna, California 40o40'N I2430'W Nearest data: Eureka, California Summer design dry bulb 5%: 63F (17C) Summer daily outdoor range: 11F (6C) Winter design temperature 99%: 32F (OC) Source: Net Energy
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A Tunisian IPSWH
The hot arid days and cold nights of Tunisia and the fairly high cost of conventional fuels ($55 per year) and water heaters ($130) led to the development of a 15 gallon (57 l) inverted IPSWH for local use. This heater was designed for in line use with good night heat retention-yet no need for daily adjustment. Instead, seasonal adjustment regulates the angle of the movable reflector. The 4 x 10 x 79 inch (10 x 25 x 200 cm) water tank was built from .024 inch (.6 mm) galvanized sheet metal at the local blacksmith. The problems in building the tank led to the development of a better crimping tool and healthy interaction between local blacksmiths and the solar designer. This eventually led to the local smiths taking over commercial production of the solar heater. The tank is insulated on the top and sides with cork protected by cement and has a 10 x 79 inch (25 x 200 cm) corrugated plastic window facing down toward 20 sq ft (1.9 sq m) of fixed and movable reflectors. The reflectors were made with aluminum foil glued to the galvanized sheet. With ambient temperature of 100F (38C) and inlet temperature of 75 to 80F (24 to 29C) the heater produced 167F (75C) water in two hours. Water was added and reached 157F (69C) by evening. Morning temperature was still 152F (67C). This first heater was installed at the local mosque-where it is used for foot washing before entering the mosque for prayer. Location: Makthar , Tunisia Nearest data: Tunis, Tunisia 3647'N 10l2'E 217 ft Summer design dry bulb 5%: 96F (36C) Daily outdoor range: 22F (12C) Winter design temperature 99%: 33F (0.6C) Source: Alan Wyatt VITA 3706 Rhode Island Ave. Mt. Rainier, MD 20822
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48
An IPSWH in Ceylon
The development of an IPSWH for Ceylon was undertaken by J.C.V. Chinnappa and K. Gnanalingnan in the late 1960's and continued into the early 1970's. They finally settled on a 44 foot long (13.4 m) square coil of 3 inch (7.6 cm) diameter pipe in an insulated box with 20 sq ft (1.9 sq m) of double glazing. This simple collector was connected to the mains and hot water was drawn off when it reached 120F (49C). On most days 30 to 50 gallons (114 to 190 l) of water at 120F (49C) could be drawn off for use. The performance of the heater was thoroughly evaluated and a computer program was prepared to evaluate annual performance. This work suggested that no water could be drawn off on about 10 percent of the year. For an additional 10 percent of the year only one batch could be drawn off. The efficiency of the collector was calculated to be 46%, based on the exposed glass area which is 1.55 times larger than the horizontally projected area of the pipe. Different pipe diameters were compared by a computer program which indicated diameters between 2.5 and 3.5 inches (6.35 and 8.9 cm) would be most appropriate. Location: Colombo, Ceylon 654'N 7952'E 24 ft Summer design dry bulb 5%: 89F (32C) 80F dry bulb exceeded: 2,870 hours Summer daily outdoor range: 15F (8C) Winter design temperature 99%: 69F (21C)
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1980
IPSWH's also make sense for mobile home dwellers. This two tank system is ground mounted on the south side of a mobile home near McKinleyville, California. It has two 30 gallon (114 1) glass lined water heater tanks plumbed in series. The insulated box faces south and has a 45 degree glazing angle. It has 25 sq ft (2.3 sq m) of single pane tempered glass with an inside layer of Tedlar plastic film. This simple heater was built by Solar Energy Trainees under the supervision of Net Energy. Materials costs about $400. The heater water temperature is usually 100F+ (38C+) on sunny afternoons, dropping to 70F (21C) in the early morning. It provides about 50 percent of the hot water for the year. Location: McKinleyville, California 415'N 12430'W Nearest data: Eureka, California Summer design dry bulb 5%: 63F (17C) Summer daily outdoor range: 11F (6C) Winter design temperature 99%: 32F (OC) Source: Net Energy
A Triple Tanker
1980
This heater is based on the design I used for my heater in Davis-which was based on the work of F.A. Brooks in 1936. Three 30 gallon (114 1) glass lined tanks are used with hot water drawn from the top of the center tank. These tanks are set in an insulated box on the ground with 45 degree glazing facing south. The collection area is about 25 sq ft (2.3 sq m) of single pane tempered glass. It was built for about $500 by Solar Energy Trainees under the supervision of Net Energy. The heater is providing about 40 percent of the hot water for a family of four, with a baby and eight-year-old helping to keep water use up. The low performance is also attributable to a poor glass to water ratio with one tank too many for the glass area. The heater provides preheating for a conventional gas heater. Location: Arcata, California 41N 12430'W Summer design dry bulb 5%: 63F (17C) Summer daily outdoor range: 11F (6C) Winter design temperature 99%: 32F (OC) Source: Net Energy
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o)
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55
1978
There is an excellent example of cold climate IPSWH design in Manchester, New Hampshire. It combines space heating and water heating in a glazed attic space with an insulated shutter to control night heat loss. The passive space heating system includes a row of Kalwall Solar Storage tubes set vertically under the peak of the attic. The three 30 gallon (114 1) glass lined water tanks of the IPSWH rest horizontally in front of these tubes. The entire south side of the roof is glazed with Kalwall Sunlite and provides a collection area of 325 sq ft (30.2 sq m). The one piece reflective insulated shutter is operated by a chain drive from a gear motor. This is controlled by a differential thermostat. Monitoring was conducted over a year in this superb passive house. The IPSWH provided 66 percent of the hot water load, 40 gallons a day at 120F (151 I at 49C), and the space conditioning system provided 72 percent of the space heating. Location: Manchester, New Hampshire 43N 715'W 253 ft
Summer design dry bulb 5%: 86F (30C) Summer daily outdoor range: 24F (13C) Winter design temperature 99%: -5F (-21C) Reference: A.V. Sed rick et.al. (1980), "Low Cost Hybrid Passive Solar Attic," 4th National Passive Conference, Kansas City.
Location: Rough and Ready, California 3915'N 121 5'W Nearest data: Auburn California June average daily maximum: 85.4F (29. 7C) June average daily range: 29.9F (16.6C) December average minimum: 36.4F (2.4C) Source: Jack Androvich
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A Factory IPSWH
1977
Horace McKracken has built one of the few IPSWH's I am aware of for commercial use in the U.S. The heater was built in 1977 for a factory where it is used for hand washing and shower water for one hundred people. It uses five 40 gallon (151 I) glass lined water heater tanks set horizontally in series in an insulated box. The installed heater cost the buyer $1,500 and required about eight days of labor for construction and installation. It was used with conventional backup heat originally-but the backup heater has subsequently been removed. Location: San Diego, California 3245'N 11729'W Summer design dry bulb 5%: 80F (27C) Daily outdoor range: 12F (7C) Winter design temperature 99%: 38F (3C) Source: Horace McKracken
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A Greenhouse IPSWH
One of the first installations with the IPSWH in a greenhouse was built by Alan Ross and the Brattleboro Design group in Brattleboro, Vermont. Two 40 gallon (151 l) recycled gas water heaters are set in the peak of a solar greenhouse in insulated boxes with movable insulated reflector-covers. The tanks were suspended on pipes running through the gas flue and hung on chains at the end. The enclosures and lids are built from urethane insulation and plywood. The lids are operated manually with cords and can be adjusted for different seasons by the cord length . The system serves as a preheater between the well and backup oil fired heater. A three valve bypass was installed so the tanks can be removed or drained without interrupting service. Backup water heater: oil fired Freeze protection: insulated lids, draindown Location: Brattleboro, Vermont 43N 7330'W 300ft Nearest station: Rutland, Vermont Summer design dry bulb 5%: 82F (28C) Summer outdoor daily range: 23F (13C) Winter design temperature 99%: -12F (-24C) HDD: about 8,000 Reference: Rick Schwolsky (1979), "Preheating Water . in Greenhouses," Solar Age, June 1979.
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STEP 2: DESIGN
The next step is designing or obtaining plans for an IPSWH for your particular situation. You may want to examine some of the plans now available (listed at the end of this Chapter). However, IPSWH's are so straightforward you should have no trouble designing one specifically to fit your location, use, budget and aesthetics. The type of tank you will use will obviously affect your design and this is often the hardest item to find. Therefore, you might prepare only a draft plan before you obtain your tank or tanks (see also Appendices 2 and 3).
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You should also consider the effect of an earthquake on your heater if you live in a seismically active area. Extra cross bracing may be required to resist the movement caused by an earthquake. The design of your heater should also reflect the location and method you will use to install it. Building the heater in place is often the easiest method. If that would be awkward or inconvenient then consider building it in sections (a prefabricated heater) that can be moved easily and assembled on location. The third option is to build the complete heater and then move it into place. This can be difficult with the large IPSWH's-weighing 200+ pounds (90+ kg) empty-but it is a feasible project. I would put skids from ground to roof and then winch the heater up. Lay down plywood or wood strips to protect the roofing material.
Tank Connections
At this stage you should plan the plumbing so you'll know where the pipes will enter and leave the box and how the drain pan or leak proofing will work. If a roof penetration is necessary it must be very carefully done to prevent future leaks. While you are working on the plumbing design you should plan the drainage and connection to your existing system. Typical hookups are shown in the accompanying diagram for a preheater and full scale water heater.
After taking care of these basics you can design the heater. Begin by choosing the angle and direction you want the glazing to face. This is usually due ,south tilted an amount about equal to the latitude of the site (or greater) for year round use and less for summer use only. You may want to round this off to 30, 45, or 60 for ease of construction. First, design a frame around the tank you'll be using with 2 x 4 inch or 2 x 6 inch wood, just as a house wall is framed. Plan the spacing between frame members at 16 or 24 inches-this will make it easy to obtain standard size materials for construction and insulation. Include a rack or brace to support the tank(s). For vertical tanks this may be as simple as a notched 2 x 6 inch piece running from side wall to side wall. Or you might include an inclined deck made for 1/2 inch plywood resting on diagonal braces from end wall to end wall. Horizontal tanks can be simply blocked in place.
After completing the plans for plumbing you can return your attention to the box and design the exterior and interior covering for the frame. The most common outside cover will be exterior plywood, but other materials can be used to match your existing house siding or roofing. The interior will also usually be covered - with plywood-but waterproof sheetrock, aluminum covered foam or fiberglass insulation, hardboard, and many other materials have been used successfully.
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The insulation should also be planned at this time. Fiberglass bats are easiest to use. If the frame members are spaced to match standard foil covered roll insulation, this will be very easy. You might also use foam insulation, either between the frame members or as an exterior or interior sheathing. Pipe insulation should also be selected. The final step is detailing the glazing. Tempered glass is usually preferable-but fiberglass, polycarbonate, and acrylic can also be used. If tempered glass will be used, you should design the frame to match an existing pane size because tempered glass cannot be cut-and custom glass is quite expensive. The glazing hold down can be made with 24 or 28 gauge sheet metal bent (and soldered) as shown. You can also do the job with wood battens and strips. The. weatherseal demands careful attention, planning, and execution.
STEP 3: CONSTRUCTION
Begin by assembling all the materials. You may find that some are slightly different from what you had expected-so check them over and revise the plan if necessary. Building basically follows the stages laid out in STEP 2.Build the frame, test the tank fit, then cover the outside, insulate, and cover the inside.
Your IPSWH plan should now be complete except for the finish work. At this time carefully determine what you'll have to do to prepare, prime, and seal all exposed surfaces. Decide whether you will paint or reflectorize the interior, paint or selective surface the tank, and determine the color for the exterior. If movable insulation will be included it may be helpful to prepare a draft plan of the preceding steps and then integrate the movable insulation and control mechanism. These may be inside the box or outside depending on your preference and site factors. The choice of installation method will influence the plan considerably. For example, prefabricated construction might be substantially different from site built, with walls, ends, and racks built in units designed to fasten together on site. Finally, assemble a materials list. Plan plywood cuts at this time too if you will have the lumber store cut it for you. Don't skimp at the planning stage-construction and installation will be easier with careful design and preparation. This is the time to apply for a building permit if you need one; check at City Hall.
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Plumbing usually comes next. Plan carefully so you don't have to shut off the water for too long. Do all the tank plumbing and connecting lines before connecting these to the water lines. The house shut off valve is usually located at the front of the house. It may be outside in a box in the ground or inside if you have a basement. Turn off the water heater, then turn off the main valve and drain water from the pipes. Cut the hot and cold lines and attach your new fittings and pipes. Then turn on the water and check carefully for leaks. It is often advisable to bleed air out of the tank when filling the system. Unscrew a plug or install a bleed valve to do this. You can also do this by manually operating the pressure and temperature relief valve if you have installed one.
Note: Standard plumbing practice includes a static pressure test. This testing requires special equipment and needn't be done unless the code requires it in your area. The advantage of this overpressure test is that it pinpoints even small leaks quickly.
You can test your system just with line pressure but let it sit for several hours before covering anything. If you haven't done much plumbing you can expect a couple of leaks. These can usually be fixed without taking everything apart. Drain the system before resoldering. You can use the time while you are testing the system to mark the valves and hang a sheet nearby describing the different use modes. You can paint just the handles or paint the valve itself. After this test is successfully completed you can caulk and paint the box exterior and interior. Do it to last-a careful job now will mean refinishing may be needed only every ten years. The next step is to insulate the pipes. If foam wrap, such as Armaflex, is used remember to paint it with a proper protective finish. Exterior latex paint will work.
The final step is adding the glazing. Handle glass with care. The glass should rest on a bead of silicone caulk, glaziers tape, or foam. Fasten the glazing down and add the flashing to make it waterproof. After all is complete run a bead of silicone seal along joints and connections where the glass meets flashing or battens.
Let everything dry and start enjoying your solar hot water. Try turning off and bypassing the backup heater, if you have one. You may find that your new heater will do the job by itself.
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The Crystal City Collector $5.50; one tank with Center for Maximum Potential reflector underneath Building Systems 8604 Webberville Rd. Austin, TX 78729 (512) 9284786
Union Electric-Solar Preheater free; two tanks with P.O. Box 149 reflector behind St. Louis, MO 63166 Horace McKracken How to Build a Passive Solar Water Heater 329 W. Carlos Alturas, CA 96101 $6; Horizontal system with one or more tanks
Zomeworks $5 + $1 p&h; one tank Box 712 vertical two tank Albuquerque, NM 87103 with lids Ted Lucas 10371 Stone River Court Fountain Valley, CA 92708 $5; horizontal tank with reflector lining Published Plans: Frederic Langa (1980) "Sun on Tap: Pure and Simple," New Shelter vol. 1, no. 7, October. Bonnie Speer (1981) "Build a Solar Water Preheater," Handyman, January.
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Sun Wizard
The latest Sun Wizard offering is one of the most interesting and innovative IPSWH's available today. After early work with traditional box type heaters they developed a vertical tank glazed with a honeycomb tedlar coated fiberglass glazing tube. The heater uses a 50 gallon (189 l) glass lined water heater tank with 55 sq ft (5.1 sq m) of glazing. The heater is designed for placement in front of a white south.facing wall which acts as a reflector to increase solar collection. The heater has a built in electric heating element and can replace the existing water heater in milder climates. In colder areas movable insulation (not available yet) could make the heater workable.
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Summer Sun
The Summer Sun heater uses a 30 or 40 gallon (114. 151 1) galvanized tank for collector and storage. This tank rests in a 60 x 24 inch (152 x 61 cm) pie shaped trough. This trough is insulated and the inner surface is reflective. It is mounted on legs and is adjustable for improved performance with changing sun path. The system provided a 70F (21C) rise in water temperature in Williamsburg, Virginia, Latitude 36N. Freeze protection is by draindown.
WT A Solar Heater
William Tao and Associates have done much of the development work on the Union Electric Solar Water preheater. In addition, William Tao and Michael Starr have gone into production of an IPSWH heater. Their current design has a 30 gallon (114 1) galvanized tank set in a fairly low profile box with shaped polycarbonate glazing. The collector area is about 16 sq ft (1.5 sq m). The box is reflectorized on the inside. No freeze protection is provided and the system should be drained in winter.
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Solar Tube
The first Solar Tube heaters were developed by the Center for Maximum Potential Building Systems of Austin, Texas in response to a cut off of natural gas in Crystal City, Texas. They helped set up the IPSWH production facilities for the City at a total cost of $4,000 and designed the Crystal City collector, predecessor of the Solar Tube. The Solar Tube #1 consists of a glass lined 30 gallon (114 1) water tank surrounded with fiberglass glazing, and suspended over a flat reflector. This flat reflector, made with recycled Iithoplate, distributes the weight of the system and makes installation easier. The Solar Tube #2 also uses a 30 gallon tank but includes phase change freeze protection, heat exchanger, reflector plate system, and flash water heater. One hundred twenty units have been installed in the Crystal City area in three modes: without backup, with conventional backup, and with CMPBS designed wood fired backup systems. The #1 heater will provide 50 gallons (189 I) of 110F (43C) water 300 days per year during an average year at San Antonio, Texas. The #2 heater will provide 75 gallons (284 1) during the same period.
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Sunflow
Servomatic Solar produces the Sunflow IPSWH. It includes a stainless steel 18.7 gallon (71 l) double glazed tank in a parabolic trough. The 36 sq ft (3.3 sq m) of reflector is focused on the tank and has produced temperatures as high as 258F (126C). The Sunflow is derived from the Australian "Sun Trap" and the SAV solar heater. It was re-engineered for America's higher water use and for a longer life. The system may well weather fifty years with little deterioration.
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The aesthetics of a product is also important for marketability, and some of these IPSWH heaters are less than conventional "aesthetics" would desire. I personally believe that form follows function-that a basic IPSWH looks good because it works well-but some homeowners probably would not agree. More thought should be devoted to integrating IPSWH's with building design-as many of the scratch built systems have done.
International IPSWH's
The international market offers several other IPSWH's that may be of interest. These include the following models: the Solar Pillow and Hi Heater (Japan), the Solar Disc (South Africa), and SA V solar heater (New Zealand).
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Hitachi Hi Heater
The Hitachi Hi Heater has also been produced for many years and tens of thousands have been Quilt and installed. This IPSWH uses six black rigid polyethylene plastic cylinders in the collector/storage unit. Holding 44 gallons (167 I), these cylinders rest in a 45 x 72 inch (114 x 183 cm) insulated steel box. The collector is single glazed with polycarbonate. The insulation on the inside of the box is covered with foil to reflect more solar energy to the cylinders. The heater is available with different mounting kits to fit different situations. It is designed for non-pressurized use and does not have freeze protection. A water tank with float valve will allow you to use this in a pressurized system. Source: Ted Lucas (1977) How To Build a Solar Hot Water Heater, Ward Ritchie Press
A Kiwi IPSWH
The SA V cylindrical collector was one of the earliest modern commercial IPSWHs. It was developed in New Zealand and is now available elsewhere around the world. The heater installations often use two SA V units, at 12 gallons (4.5 I) each, with 6 sq ft (0.6 sq m) of collector area. The tanks are baffled for internal circulation and double glazed with cylindrical glass shells. Collection is enhanced by adding aluminum reflectors below the SA V cylinders. Temperatures reached 160F (71C) with the two SA V cylinders, while by comparison six flat plate collectors, 48 sq ft (4.5 sq m), heated a similar quantity of water to only 120F (49C) in the same period of time. Economic analysis showed the SA V cylinder would save 5.1 kwh per year per New Zealand dollar invested compared with 3.55 kwh per year per N.Z. dollar for the flat plate system. Source: Stephen Vincze (1974) "Comparative Tests, Cylindrical v/s Flat Plate Solar Heat Collectors," P.O. 10368, New Zealand
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Second, there is no need to mount a tank high in the attic as there is for most thermosiphon systems. This will yield savings in installation and also ease of repair and reduced possibility of damage in the event leaks occur. Third, there is virtually no problem with high stagnation temperatures damaging the collector as there can be with a flat plate. As soon as the tanks are full, the temperature will remain far below danger points. And even before the tanks are full, they have a higher mass than most flat plate systems and temperatures stay lower. . And finally, the system is considerably more resistant to freezing, and in many areas of the Sun Belt could probably get through the winter even without special protection of any kind. In colder areas, a movable insulation system of some kind will probably prove sufficient. And in very cold areas, some type of a tank within a tank heat exchanger should do the trick. The site assembled units will almost certainly be more expensive but will probably most commonly be used on more expensive housing where this added cost will not be a handicap. The glazing for these systems can be installed like skylights to provide a harmonious roof line.
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Installer/Scratch Builder
The easiest, although not necessarily the most desirable, method to start an IPSWH business is to start installing commercial models or building your own IPSWH for customers. This can be started out of your home and garage for only a few hundred dollars in many states. In other states it may require a contractor's license, which will add to the cost and quite possibly to the time it takes you to get started. Ideally, you should already have construction experience and be familiar with the techniques and tools of plumbing, carpentry, and roofing. A beginner's kit of tools could be purchased for about $450 and should include: Good extension ladder, 20 to 24 ft (6 to 7 m), perhaps rented initially Circular Saw (Skil 77 or equivalent) Hammer Hand saw Tin snips Pipe wrenches Propane torch kit Paint brushes Chisel(s) Putty knife Drill Trisquare Caulking gun T ape measure, 16 ft Screwdriver(s) Large adjustable wrench Tubing cutter Note: Always buy the best-they'll save time and be safer and easier to use-which means saving money for you. You will also need a trailer, truck, station wagon, or roof rack which can be rented initially if you don't have one or have access to one. Along with tools you should expand your insurance coverage to protect yourself and your clients. A good book on setting up a business should also be consulted. I would recommend Small Time Operator by Bernard Kamoroff.
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Start on weekends or evenings with solar systems for your friends or friends of friends. Keep the newspapers involved and you should be able to generate enough work for this stage. Later on, use ads in the local papers as necessary to drum up business. Do a good job-never stint on quality-and be fair and on time. This should generate enough word-ofmouth referrals to keep you as busy as you'd like. A logical companion to an IPSWH business would be a solar greenhouse division. Not only do solar greenhouses provide efficient solar heating and potentially improved cooling, but they also make an excellent location for an IPSWH in colder climates.
Contractor/Installer/Builder
If the first stage goes well and is satisfying you might like to expand operations and add a crew. This brings the opportunity for greater success or failure, so think it over carefully before plunging in. You will have to be responsible for employees (and their work) and manage time, materials, and clients more carefully to succeed. The chief advantage of this scale is increased volumewith the potential for savings on material and more experienced labor. This is particularly true if you can land a subdivision scale job. Finding and keeping good employees will probably be almost as hard as dealing with the additional layers of bureaucracy that will inevitably accompany your expansion.
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As time and money allow, you might expand your service to include wholesale supplies to other energy conservation product stores and IPSWH contractors. This obviously would require more space, sales and marketing expertise, and capital. At this scale, however, you could begin to justify custom manufactured components-which could reduce your costs and improve your sales.
Manufacturer
The next step up is that of manufacturing a complete IPSWH. This could be begun on the small scale (the "cottage" level), but it might be easier to start manufacturing in quantity. This step requires considerable capital, skill in managing people and money, and engineering and manufacturing expertise. You will probably need a plant, manufacturing equipment (including stamping or moulding for copper and/or plastic), and a delivery system. Manufacturing is the big leagues, with the opportunity for large monetary rewards-or losses. It is not for the timid, lazy, or unmotivated. It may well take virtually all your time and energy for several years, so planning is critical. Make sure you have the money, expertise, and market for a strong effort-or don't attempt one. There is of course no surefire road to success-but careful planning, hard work, and continued evaluation should afford a good chance. The people at the Center for Maximum Potential Building Systems, developers of the Crystal City Collector facility and builders of the Solar Tube, will provide consulting advice on setting up a manufacturing facility for IPSWH s. They also sell a preliminary book on this subject for $10. They are seeking a $7,000 grant to refine the book and produce 200 copies for distribution. Write Pliny Fisk, CMPBS, 8604 Webberville Rd., Austin, TX 78724 for more information.
Supplier
One of the most attractive opportunities in IPSWH's right now appears to be as a supplier. This step requires more money for space, inventory, and promotion. It will probably also take longer to turn a profit. Location and marketing will be critical. Some idea of the potential can be appreciated by comparing the current retail cost of glass lined water tanks-about $90-with the cost in large quantities of less than $20 apiece. In the beginning you might just warehouse and sell supplies locally as you test the market. If all goes well, a pre-cut kit might also be very successful. This kit might include all plumbing, tanks, insulation, and glazing with the buyer to supply locally available wood. As volume is built up the earnings should be very good.
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Interpolation is done by first figuring the difference between the A values for the two nearest latitudes. Divide this result by 8 to get the difference per degree. Then multiply this result by the number of degrees you are away from the lower listed latitude. Add this result to the lower listed A value and you're done. For example: If you are at 36N the Dec 11 a.m. A number is estimated in the following manner. (40 A value 2.7) minus (32 A value 1.9) 0.8. 0.8 divided by 8 0.1. The difference in latitude is 3632 4. Then (4 x 0.1) 0.4, and add this to the lower A value, 1.9 + 0.4 = 2.3. Thus for 36N you would use 2.3 as the A number for Dec. at 11 a.m. This is not exactly correct, but it is a reasonably good approximation-well within the tolerance of the instrument. (Interpolate between B values the same way.)
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Next, fill in points on the box for each of the other hours for the different months for your latitude. For each case you start at the noon line at the bottom of the box. Measure horizontally over a distance "B" to both the left and right sides of the noon line. On each side then measure vertically up the box a distance "A", make a mark and note. For example, Dec. 11 a.m. for the right side mark and Dec. 1 p.m. for the left side mark. When done, connect the dots for each month with as smooth a curved line as possible. Now cut out as much of this viewer side of the box as you can without overly weakening it. Start by cutting out between the December line and one-half inch below the October line, leaving only two or three cross pieces between for support. Then cut out between the October/February line and one half inch below the August/ April line, again leaving a few cross support pieces. And so on until the final cut out is between the top line and one half inch below the top of the box. Finally, you will need a compass so that you can orient the viewer properly. If you don't have a compass, you can magnetize a common needle by stroking it lengthwise with a magnet, and then hang it by a string in the other corner of the viewer. Draw a line under it which shows magnetic south (not the same as solar south due to magnetic declination) and you are ready to begin. To test a possible IPSWH site you will need to stand or sit so the site selector is approximately in the center of where the collector would be. Then orient the viewer to the south by using the compass. Level it by looking over at the paper clip and ensuring that it is centered. Then look through the peephole through the viewer and you can see when the sun will be available and when it will be blocked. For each of the months on your viewer you can estimate how many hours of sun you will have. Solar radiation data applicable to your area should be available, if you search for it. Combine this information with your estimates of exposure time to determine how much solar radiation your IPSWH will receive at different possible sites.
Next draw a line four inches from the viewer (sun path) side on both short sides, the top, and the bottom of the box and cut off the back of the box. This leaves the viewer side and a four inch border of the remaining box. Then cut away the four inch top flap. You are now ready to finish the viewer. First bend a small (112 x 2 in) tab of cardboard to form a right angle. Punch or cut a small peephole in the tab next to the bend. Tape the tab to the bottom of the viewer at the cut off edge of the northsouth line so that the peep hole is four inches from the viewer grid and right at the floor of the box. Next, tape a piece of cardboard (about 2 x 8 in) across one top corner so that the middle of the piece is about three inches from the corner. Tape or tie the paper clip to the string and tie the other end of the string to the cardboard crosspiece so that the paper clip hangs just off the bottom of the viewer. Put the viewer on a level surface and make a mark where the paper clip nearly touches the bottom of the box. This is your plumb bob to keep the viewer level as you use it.
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Method 2:
If you want a more detailed and accurate method that works well in summer you can use the site plotting method. You will have to obtain a good sun path chart for your latitude. Several solar books have these as appendices or you can order an excellent set from Robert Bennet, 6 Snowden Road, Bala Cynwyd, P A 19004 for $5 ppd or $2.50 for enlarged chart for your latitude. You will also need to make a site calculator to help plot obstructions. A simple instrument can be built for less than $5 using a protractor, a piece of string, a washer, and the cut off barrel of a pen with the clip left on. Plans for assembling the site calculator are included below.
To plot all the obstructions may take a while but you can spread it out over several days if desired. Begin by finding magnetic south with the compass. Correct for magnetic deviation and find true south. Now use the site calculator to find the boundaries of all obstacles directly to the south and plot them in pencil on your sun angle chart. You can generally disregard all sun below 20 above the horizon because the sun is weak when it is low. Next find 10 to east of south and plot all the obstacles there. And so on around to the east and then to the west. Connect all the dots on your chart to show the times that will be shaded and those that will be in the sun. With local solar radiation data you can calculate performance fairly accurately if you wish.
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Appendix 2: Resources
I.
B. Paint and Selective Surfaces Berry Foil Selective Surface Berry Solar Products P.O. Box 327 Edison, N.J. 08817 Enersorb Desoto, Inc. 1700 S. Mt. Prospect Rd. Desplaines, I1Iinois 600
419-9372226
Energy House $3 P.O. Box 5288 Salem, Oregon 97304 Solar Hardware Supply Company $1 (refunded with first purchase) 2160 Clay Street Denver, Colorado 80211 Energy Shack N/C P.O. Box 7305 Flint, Michigan 48507 Kalwall Solar N/C P.O. Box 237 Manchester, N.H. 03105 Zomeworks (send 9" x 12" Self Addressed Stamped Envelope) P.O. Box 712 Albuquerque, New Mexico 87103 You may also find many products you will need at your local hardware store or through Sears or Wards. A. Tanks American Appliance
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Maxorb Engenics 681 Lawlins Rd. Wyckoff, N.J. 07481 C. Glazing The best glazing material for most purposes is glass. It is the most durable, attractive, and is recyclable. For added strength use tempered glass. Design your IPSWH for existing glass size as custom tempered costs twice as much. The following sizes are usually available locally: 28"x54", 28"X76", 34"X76", 46"X76",
22"x76", 33"x76", 34"X74", 34"X78", 34"x79", 34"x92", 45"x76", 46"X77", 46"X78", 58"x76", 46"x79", 46"x92", 58"x92". You can often reduce
the cost by buying seconds or used glass. Good Earth Glass & Sun 729 Heinz Ave. #10 Berkeley, CA
415-8433109
Bob Daley Glass Factory Box 1372 Taos, New Mexico 87571
505-7589344
Kalwall Corp./Solar Division P.O. Box 237 Manchester, NH 03105
603668-8186
sales department SolaRolI Framing Strips Bio-Energy Systems, Inc. Box 87 Ellenville, NY 12428 Ventarama Skylights 75 Channel Drive Port Washington, NY 11050
(516) 883-5000
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Kennedy Sky-Lites, Inc. 3647 All American Blvd. Orlando, Florida 32810 (303) 293-3880 Pfeiffer Skylight Corp. 14692 Wicks Blvd. San Leandro, CA 94577 (415) 357-1400 Exolite ObI. Skin CY/RO Industries West Main St. Bound Brook, NH 08805 (201) 356-2000 Polycarbonate Glazing Park Energy Company Star Route 9 Jackson, Wyoming 83001 (307) 733-4950 Polycarbonate-Polyglaz Sheffield Plastics, Inc. Sheffield, MA 01257 (413) 229-8711 Filon Div. FRP Glazing Vistron Corp. 12333 South Van Ness Hawthorne, CA 90250 Heat Mirror The Southwall Corporation 3961 East Bayshore Rd. Palo Alto, CA 94303 D. Valves and Etc. Richdel Inc. Solar Division P.O. Drawer A Carson City, NV 89701 E. Pipe Insulation Teledyne Mono-Thane 1460 Industrial Parkway Akron, OH 44310 Urethane Molding Inc. RFD 3 Route 11 Laconia, NH 03246 (603) 524-7577
Insultek Corp. 82 Crestwood Rd. Rockaway, NJ 17866 (201) 625-3828 The Retro Co. 40 Oping Rd. Pompton Plains, NJ 07444 Wrap-on Co. 341 W. Superior St. Chicago, IL 60610 Frelen Co. 491 Dutton St. Lowell, Mass 01852 Diversified Insulation P.O. Box 188 Hamel, Minn. 55340 F. Insulation Thermax Foam Celotex Box 22602 Tampa, Fla. 33622 (813) 871-4811 BASF Wyandotte Corp. Styropor Division 1609 Biddle Ave. Wyandotte, MI 48192 Polyurethane Div. Mobay Chemical Co. Pittsburg, P A 15205 Foam Insulation Dow-Styrofoam Insulation 1703 S. Saginaw Rd. Midland, MI 48640 Zonolite Panel Foam W. R. Grace 62 Whittemore Ave. Cambridge, MA 02140 G. Reflectors Edmund Scientific 7780 Edscorp Bldg. Barrington, NJ 08007 Berry Solar Products P.O. Box 327 Edison, NJ 08817
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H. Movable Insulation Skylid Insulating Louvres Zomeworks Corp. P.O. Box 712 Albuquerque, NM 87103 (505) 2425354 . Appropriate Technology Corporation Drapes 14 Green St. Brattleboro, VT 15301 Sun Quilt Box 374 Newport, NH 03773 (603) 8632243 Pease EverStrait Division - Rolling Shutters 2001 Troy Ave. NewCastle, IN 47362 (317) 5291700 FoylonFoil Fabric Hybrid Duracote Corporation 350 North Diamond Street Ravenna, Ohio 44266 (216) 2963486 Dalen Automatic Greenhouse Vent Activator 201 Shelake Drive Knoxville, TN 37922 (615) 6900050 Heat Motors, Inc. 635 W. Grandview Ave. Sierra Madre, CA 91024 I. Caulk The variety of caulk now available is almost staggering. You can get butyl, oil, acrylic, silicone, latex, and other base caulks. Make sure the one you chose is suitable for your application. Silicone seal is best for glassglass. Butyl is generally best for wet areas or underground. Take a good look at the product literature. The foam caulks are very good for wider cracks. Polycell One Coplanar Corp. 1631 San Pablo Ave. Oakland, CA 94612
Zeus Manufacturing 4 Buckingham St. Toronto, Ontario M8Y 2Wl (416) 259-5474 Dow Corning 790 Building Sealant Dow Corning Corporation Box 1767 Midland, MI 48640 Sweet's Buy.Line or (517) 496-4000 Silicone Seal Silicone Products Division, G.E. RTV Products Department Waterford, NY 12188 Maceo Adhesives, SCM Wicklife, OH 44092 (800) 321-3647; Ohio (216) 9436161 Detco/Grove polysulfide, polyurethane and epoxy sealants Detco Marine 3452 East Foothill Blvd. Pasadena, CA 91107 (213) 6812613 J . Weatherstrip Macklanburg Duncan Box 25188 Oklahoma City, OK 73125 Thermwell Products 2049 East 27th St. Los Angeles, CA 90058 Pemko Box 8216 Emeryville, CA 94662 Certain Seal Box 889 Waco, TX 76703 Schlegel Corp. Box 23113 Rochester, NY 14692 (716) 2441000 Gaska Tape, Inc. 1810 W. Lusher Elkhart, IN 46514 (219) 2945431
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2. Wood Water Heaters K. Backup Water Heaters 1. If you use wood for much of your heating you may be able to get hot water as well. Woodburning Water Heaters Walden Foundation P.O. Box 5 EI Rito, NM 87530 Domestic water heater, wood Aqua Heater P.O. Box 815 Clark, CO 80428 Water jacket kitchen wood or coal ranges Tirolia 169 Dunning Road Middletown, NY 10950 (914) 3435900 Handmade Hot Water Systems $4.95 and Components Blazing Showers Elaine Walsh P.O. Box 327 Pt. Arena, CA 95468 Firebox water heater exchanger Holly Hydro Heater Frizelle Enos Co. 265 Petaluma Ave. P.O. Box 339 Sebastopol, CA 95472 (707) 823-6557 L. Space Heater using Water Heater The Chill Chaser T urbonics, Inc. 11200 Madison Ave. Cleveland, Ohio 44102
Flash Water Heaters There are two basic types of flash water heaters, those with a thermostat (necessary for backup use) and those with constant temperature rise (50F90F 10C32C) over ambient). Make sure you get the right kind for your purpose. Thorn Flash Water Heater Environmental Research Assoc. Box 351 Vineyard Haven, Mass. 02568 (617) 6934402 Paloma Low Energy Systems Thorndike Arcade, Main St. Rockland, ME 04841 (207) 5966525 Chronomite Labs 21011 South Figueroa St. Carson, CA 90745 Junkers Pressure Cleaning Systems 612 N. 16th Ave. Yakima,WA 98902 Net Energy 854 Ninth Street Arcata, CA 95521 Silverstar RGS 41019 Solieva Modena, Italy Lorenzetti S.A.I.B.E. Av. Pres. Wilson 1230 Sao Paulo, SP Brazil Sitam Modena Viale Indipendenza 5 51010 Modena Est. Italy Silvio Serin Via Col De. Rosso 35100 Padona Italy
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Recommended Magazines
Solar Age, P.O. Box 4934, Manchester, New Hampshire
per year.
Alternative Sources of Energy, 107 S. Central Ave., Milaca,
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This simplified chart certainly won't cover all cases but should help you estimate how well your heater will work. The use pattern, temperature of water used, and local climate will all determine how much of your hot water will be solar heated. Ongoing experiments this year should help refine this information. The only simulation program for IPSWH's that I am aware of was done by Davis Alternative Technology Associates, P.O. Box 470, Davis, CA 95617. This effort is a good beginning but needs more validation-by comparison with solid monitoring data from different types of heaters in different climates. Their program is described in the 5th National Passive Solar Conference Proceedings, Amherst, Massachusetts, 1980. I would also like to see more work done in system efficiency, as the collector efficiency by itself isn't enough. A good comparison of IPSWH's with thermosiphon and active solar systems would be very useful. This should include a 105F set point for the backup heater and shifted load to afternoon and evening for the IPSWH. These factors will give a much better picture of expected performance in a real life situation.
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