1 SEX BODICE FRONT

7 3/8" 4 7/8"

5 7/8"

1'-5 1/4"

1'-5" 1'-4 3/4" 1'-2 1/2"

The 1SEX BODICE uses a complex drafting system that ensures an accurate fit that accomodates uneven bodies, odd postures of shoulder and neck and body proportions that differ from the garment industry standards.
7 3/4"

It works equally well for men, women and children.

9"

1
CENTER FRONT = A-B
A
1 2

1SEXBODICE FRONT

1 2 3

BEGIN BY MARKING THE CENTER FRONT & CENTER BACK WAIST, & SIDE WAIST WITH SAFETY PINS

4 5 6

3 4 5

Tie twill tape around the waist and bust to give yourself clear positions for measurements. If you are unsure about where the waist is, have the person bend sideways. The waist is where the torso dents in. The center front base of the neckline it the hollow between the two collar bones. When you measure the center front make sure to hold the tape measure out even with the bust points, not flat against the chest in the hollow of the cleavage.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1SEXBODICE FRONT
1 2 3 4 5

FRONT CHEST DROP FRONT WIDTH @ ARMHOLE BREAKPOINT = C-D

The distance from the hollow of the neck to the chest width line.

The armhole is an oval. The bottom tilts toward the front. The breakpoint on an armhole is at the point that the curve of the oval stops curving out from the top and starts turning under toward the bottom. On the body this position is located at the point where the muscles of the torso join to the arm.

3
E

1SEXBODICE FRONT

FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT

The front shoulder height is from the base of the neck at the shoulder seam, over the bust point and then perpendicular down to the waist.
3
8

2
7

The shoulder seam sits on the high arc of the shoulder curve. To find the base of the neck at the shoulder seam, make your hand flat and run it down the side of the neck. Where it stops at the shoulder is the proper point.

1SEXBODICE FRONT

FRONT SHOULDER WIDTH

1

7 6 5 4 3 2

The shoulder width is from one shoulder point to the other shoulder point, across the neckline at center front. If it is difficult to determine where the high point of the shoulder curve is, lay two pencils along the shoulder and the arm. A perpendicular drop from their crossing marks the point. Keep in mind that the angle of the armhole, in combination with the front torso silhouette is an important design line. Angling to form a V can be used to flatter the body. This may mean that you will place the shoulder point further out than the actual anatomical point.
E

1SEXBODICE FRONT

FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE = B-H

8

H
4 5 6 7 8

Measure from the shoulder point, over the bust point, to the center of the waist.

1SEXBODICE FRONT

SHOULDER SEAM = H - I
1 2 3 4

I H

7
1SEXBODICE FRONT

Measure from the base of the neck to the corner of the shoulder along the apex of the curve of the shoulder.

CENTER FRONT CHEST TO SIDE SEAM = N-M

1 2
3 2

the front bust circumference. It is easiest to take the whole chest measurement with the tape and observe the numbers for each of the front and each of the back. Make sure the tape measure is parallel to the floor.

1SEXBODICE BACK
7 3/4" 5 3/8"

The unisex bodice back draft that matches the 1SEXBODICE FRONT

1'-5" 1'-6 1/4" 1'-4 1/2" 1'-4 1/4"

1'-0 7/16"

1/2 ease is automatically added to the shoulder seam and to the back width at the break-point. 3/4 is added to the chest circumference for a total of 3 in the chest.

7 3/4"

7 13/16" 8 1/2"

1
A
The center back starts at the large bone at the base of the neck and goes down the spine to the waist. If the person has shoulder blades that protrude prominently, hold the tape measure out away from the body to match the distance they project from the basic body shape, just as you do for the bust area in the front.

1SEXBODICE BACK

CENTER BACK LENGTH = A-B

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK WIDTH AT THE BREAK-POINT = C - D

The measurement across the width of the back between the points where the arm joins on to the body. The break-point of an arm cye is the place where the curve of the oval stops curving out from the top and starts curving under D toward the bottom.

BACK WIDTH DROP

The distance from the top of the center back to the back width. Keep in mind that the placement of the height of the top of the center back line visually effects the illusion of posture. Dropping the back neckline the right amount for a specific body will enhance the look of erect posture, for instance.

3
E

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT = B - E

Measure from the point where the base of the neck meets the shoulder seam, over the high point of the shoulder blade and then perpendicular down to the waist.
1 2 3 4 5

Keep in mind that the shoulder seam travels along the apex of the arc of the shoulder curve. (See the Front Shoulder height measurement instructions for detailed description of how to find the base of the neck.) Here again, placing the seam toward the front or back of the actual base point can change the posture illusion.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK SHOULDER WIDTH

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

E F Measure from one shoulder point to the other, straight across the back. On people with very erect posture the tape measure will go across right at the base of the neck.

See the 1SEXBODICE FRONT Front Shoulder Width measurement instructions for detailed information on determining the shoulder point position.

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK SHOULDER SLOPE = I - H

I
5 4 3 2 1

Measure from the shoulder point over the high point of the shoulder blade and then to the center back at the waist.

10

11

12

This measurement controls the angle that the shoulder seam slopes down from the side base of the neck.

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK CHEST CIRCUMFERENCE = K - L

Measure from side seam to side seam at the same level as the bust point in the front, being careful to stay parallel to the floor.

It may be easier to take the total chest circumference and the back and front and half measurements at the same time.

7
A

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK WAIST DEPTH = A - N

1 2 3 4 5 6

Measure from the base of the back neck, over the high point of the shoulder blade and down to the waist at the side seam.
6 7 8 9

1 2 3 4 5 10 11

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK WAIST = N - B
Measure from the side seam to the side seam keeping parallel to the floor. Pay particular attention to see if the sides are uneven.

N It may be easier to take the entire waist measurement, the back and front measurements and the half measurements all at the same time.

The SLEEVE block

7" 3 9/16" 3 9/16"

Standard Dressmaker Sleeve. It fits the 1SEXBODICE. The blue drafting lines also mark positions for turning this into a 2 part tailored sleeve.

1'-10"

6 1/2"

1'-4"

3 3/4"

Dressmaker Sleeve Pattern

SLEEVE

UNDERARM LENGTH
Measure with the arm straight down at the side. Start at the bottom of the armhole position and measure against the arm down to the wrist. (As a patternmaker, you decide where you want that position. Make sure it is the same as when you measured the side seam of the bodice.) The wrist position is where the hand bends back from the arm.

SLEEVE

BICEPT CIRCUMFERENCE

BICEPT

Bend elbow at 90

3
SLEEVE

Measure with the elbow bent.

ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE

Bend elbow at 90 ELBOW

Measure with the elbow bent.

SLEEVE

WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE
Measure the wrist over the wrist bones.

5
SLEEVE

WRIST

OVERARM LENGTH
ARM LENGTH

Start to measure from top of shoulder where the shoulder seam would meet the armhole seam (See instructions for 1SEXBODICE FRONT for how to determine the shoulder point.) Carry the tape measure over the outside corner of the elbow. Place hand on lower thigh. Measure to place where hand turns back on the arm.

Measure with arm slightly bent at elbow.

PANTS
8

Square cut basic pant fit block with dance ease in crotch and optional gusset for extra movement.
7"

10"

8 3/4"
10"

1'
1'-1"

6"
6

2'-1"

2'-1"

3'-5"

3'-5"

6 1/4"

6 1/4"

The back measurements are the same positions for the front and the back. The high slope of the waist to the crotch seam divides the automatically added ease between the to of the rise and the crotch depth position. Those who have seen patterns for mens breeches from the 1700s through the 1800s will recognize this feature. which accommodate sitting astride a horse comfortably. If you add fullness to the waist and hips and pivot to shift the straight grain to the side seam, as in a jean-cut, the angle of the waist slope will diminish. The additional extension in the crotch eliminates the need for a dance gusset when needed. Other wise, you can erase it before developing your pattern design.

PANT BACK
A

SIDE SEAM
is measured from the waist along the body to the ankle. Since the length is an artistic decision, if you always measure to the center of the outer ankle you will always have an accurate reference point.

1 2 3 4
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

KNEE

SIDE WAIST TO KNEE

is measured to the center of the knee cap.
34 35 31 32 33

23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

2
A
1 2 3 4

PANT BACK

1 2 3

HIP DROP
1 2 3

THIGH DROP

4 5 6

HIP DROP
is measured along the body from the side waist to level where the buttocks are the fullest in the back. If the thighs are so full that they bulge out on the sides, it is wise to have a THIGH DROP measurement also.

PANT BACK
A

CROTCH DEPTH
CROTCH DEPTH

defines the placement of the bottom of the crotch curve. To take this measurement, seat the person on a table or a flat wooden chair. Use a ridged ruler to measure from the waist level to the chair, holding the ruler perpendicular to the chair.

PANT BACK

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE
Take separate measurements for the front and back.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

D
HIP CIRCUMFERENCE

It is easier to do this by taking the total circumference at the same time as you take the front and back. This computer draft asks for the total back hip and the total front hip measurements. The computer automatically adds 3 total ease to the hips. Remember that the buttocks to stomach ratio varies from person to person.

PANT BACK
X

THE RISE
Y is the length of the crotch seam. Measure the front and back separately. Measure from the waist to the point where the inseam would meet the curve. Remember that tummies and buttocks come in an endless variety of shapes and combinations. Any system that takes a single continuous rise measurement ignores the realities of nature.

6
PANT BACK

THIGH, KNEE & ANKLE

should be measured snuggly around the widest place. 3 of ease total is automatically included in the block pattern for each. D
THIGH

H It is best to measure the ankle over the ankle bones since that is the largest circumference the leg opening will have to fit over. Of course the width of the ankle meaurement is a design decision and you can enter whatever you want.

KNEE

ANKLE