FIVE CReATive 1 4 2 5 3

PROJecTS:
A place to grow your favorite blooms, fantastic pads for Fido and his bird friends, the perfect spot to grow your own veggies, and a cool option for storing your stuff.
Each of these projects has been built using clear or pressure-treated Southern Pine, and with good reason: Southern Pine has been the building material of choice for centuries. Its strong, long-lasting, beautiful, safe and affordable. Its also one of the only naturally renewable products on the market, making it the clear environmental choice. Youll nd Southern Pine products at your nearest independent lumber dealer or big box store.

This could be the start of something wonderful.

Fo r i n n o v a t i v e p r o j e c t i d e a s , i n s p i r a t i o n a l p h o t o s a n d s u s t a i n a b i l i t y i n f o r m a t i o n , p l e a s e v i s i t S PA N o n l i n e a t w w w. s p a n p i n e . c o m

P R O J E C T:

Safe Arbor

Garden structures are a great way to call attention to a calm area of the yard where you can sit and enjoy nature or simply the sounds of silence. Our garden arbor is simple to make and can be completed in about half a day. Since some of the parts get heavy when assembled, its a good idea to have a friend around to help you with some parts of the construction. The nished height of this arbor is 8 feet. You can decide if you want to set the feet in concrete anchors or make a free-standing base.

Materials:
4 4x4x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine (legs) 2- 2x8x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine (bottom rails) 3 2x6x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine (top rails) screws designed for use with pressure-treated lumber drill/screwgun/drill bits Jig saw Galvanized bolts, nuts and washers

2. Measure in 18 from both ends of the bottom rails and draw a line across the width of the piece. Drill three holes evenly spaced for the carriage bolts. 3. On each end of the top rails, draw and cut the tail design. We used the scrap piece cut from the bottom rails as a pattern. 4. Measure in from each end of the top rails 12 and cut a notch roughly half the width of the rail so that it will saddle over the bottom rails.

3. Using clamps to hold them in place, attach the front and rear bottom rails to the legs. Complete the pilot holes through the legs using the holes in the rails as guides. When the legs are properly spaced, the holes will align with the centers of the legs. Install and tighten the carriage bolts, with the washers and nuts facing inside the structure. 4. Measure and mark the locations for the top rails, spacing them to suit your taste. Ours are approximately 11 on center. You may prefer different spacing. 5. With the help of a friend, lift the top rails into place, ensuring that the notches t snugly over the bottom rails. Secure to the bottom rails using screws. 6. Replace the temporary supports with permanent, sturdy supports of your choice. Enjoy!

Cutting:
1. Cut both of the 2x8x8s into 6 (bottom rails) and 2 (side supports) sections. 2. Cut the 2x6x8s in half (top rails). You should end up with 6 pieces - 4 in length.

Assembling:
Note: For the purpose of these instructions, well assume the arbor will be free-standing on at, level ground. 1. Lay 2 of the legs on the ground and attach the side support even with the tops of the posts. Check for square and install 3 screws on each end. Repeat for the other leg assembly. 2. Using scrap lumber as temporary supports and with the help of a friend, stand up the leg assemblies and secure in place. They should be centered three feet apart. Use a level to make sure theyre plumb.

Preparing the Parts:

1. On each end of the bottom rails, draw and cut the tail design. Ours is a simple ogee made using 2 circles that intersect for a graceful curve. Sand any rough edges and splinters from the parts.

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Materials:
8 2x4x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine 2 1x3x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine 3 1x6x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine 8 1x8x10 wood lap siding 2 wood columns 4 shutters

P R O J E C T:

The Sweet Dog Suite

Dogs are more than just pets: Theyre members of the family, furry condants, valiant watchdogs, and childrens playmates. For their unconditional love and affection, they deserve the best: a top-of-the-line home complete with columns and a window. After all, they need a place to hang out during their outdoor time. You know the dog next door will be green with envy.
2. Attach the nished side walls to the base using construction adhesive and screws. 3 8 Southern Pine trim moulding 2 4x8x pressure-treated plywood 2 tubes construction adhesive 2 1 lb. boxes screws designed for pressure-treated wood 1 tube silicone caulk 1 1 lb. box nish nails 3. To make the 4 end walls, cut 4 lengths to 10 (top and bottom plates) and 4 to 28 (studs). Assemble these walls and attach to the side walls and base using screws. 4. You should now have a base with side walls and end walls attached, leaving openings at both ends measuring 16 wide. 3. Lay out the roof rafters to form the 2 sides of the roof and attach the plywood using screws. 4. Attach 2 roof sides to form roof structure and sit on top of side walls, centering front to back. Test for rigidity. You may need to add one or two ceiling joists to keep walls from bowing out. Attach roof structure to walls using screws. 5. Use silicone caulk to seal center seam in roof structure. 6. Attach rolled asphalt roong to roof structure if in rain-prone area. Match rolled roong to house. 7. Cut and miter crown molding to t perimeter of roof. Attach with nish nails. 8. Attach screen or plywood to roof structure ends to close openings.

Making the Base:

1. Cut plywood to 4x5. Cut and attach pressure-treated 2x4s to the perimeter of the plywood so that it sits off the ground. This will prevent it from wicking too much moisture into the ply. Mark one end B for Back and the other F for Front. 2. Measure and draw a line around the perimeter of the top of the plywood 2 from each edge.

Attaching the Columns:

1. Cut the circular columns to 31 long using a circular saw. Attach the columns to the base using construction adhesive and screws. You can either toenail them into the base, or lay the base on its side and attach the columns through the bottom of the plywood. They should be spaced approximately from the edge of the top of the plywood on the base. 2. Cut, miter and attach trim to the base and top of each column to suit, using nish nails.

Finishing Touches:
1. Cut and attach siding to side walls and end walls, leaving appropriate openings for front door and rear window. 2. Build or purchase stock shutters for rear window of structure. Attach with screws or nails. 3. Build or purchase stock shutters for front door. Attach using screws or nails, or use hinges to create working doors. 4. Add trim over front door and rear window. Attach with nails. 5. Paint the structure to suit.

Building the Walls:

1. Well make 2 side walls measuring 40 x 31. Cut 4 lengths of 2x4 to 40. Each pair will be the top and bottom plates to the side walls. Cut 6 lengths of 2x4 to 28. These will be the studs. Attach them to the top and bottom plates at each end and in the middle using screws.

Building the Roof:

1. Cut 2 lengths of 1x6 pressure-treated Southern Pine to 54 (roof sides). Cut 2 lengths to 44 (roof ends). Attach sides to ends using screws to form an open box. 2. Cut 8 lengths of 1x3 to 24 and miter each end to allow for roof pitch. These will be the roof rafters.

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Cutting:

P R O J E C T:

Southern Chalet Birdhouse

Nothing says spring like the sounds of songbirds in your backyard. Thats why its so important to make your yard an inviting home to natures little musicians. Heres a simple-to-build bird house that you can make with a single 1x10x8 long Southern Pine board and some supplies you may already have in the shop.

Preparing the Parts:

1. Sand any rough edges and splinters from the parts. 2. On the piece marked B, measure in from each side 1 inch and draw a line. This will create a box measuring roughly 7 wide by 10 long. These will be the guidelines for the walls. 3. On the piece labeled F, nd the rough center of the face and drill a hole. Do some research on the types of birds you want to attract to see what diameter hole you need to drill so theyll t! 4. On the same piece, measure, drill holes and attach a standard drawer pull as a perch.

Assembling:
1. Attach the left, right and rear walls to the base using glue and nish nails. Do NOT attach the front wall yet! 2. Once the glue has dried, t the front wall onto the base. You may need to sand the sides to allow it to slide in. A tight t is good. With the front wall in place, measure up from the base on the side walls and drill a small pilot hole through the side walls and into the front wall. Well use small screws here to make the front wall removable. 3. Place the two beveled edges of the pieces labeled R together and attach with glue and nish nails. Once it has dried, t it onto the walls of the bird house and measure for the correct locations to attach it to the side and rear walls. Be sure NOT to attach it to the front wall. 4. Test to make sure the front wall is easily removed at this point. Again, you may need to sand or plane some wood off to ensure it does. This will allow you to clean out the house each winter if necessary. 5. To install the bird house, attach a hook to the top, or use a pipe ange and galvanized pipe to set it into the ground. 6. Paint to suit.

1. Cut 3 pieces to 12 in length. Label one of the pieces in pencil with a B for base and the other two with R for roof. Bevel each of the Rs on a long edge to 45 degrees. 2. Cut another piece to 10 in length. Now, rip it in half lengthwise with a 45 degree bevel. You should have 2 pieces measuring approximately 4 by 10. These will be the side walls. 3. Cut 2 more pieces to 7 3/8 in length and rip them to 5 5/8 wide. These will be the front and rear walls mark them F and Rr. Measure and mark the center of each piece lengthwise. Next, measure up each side 4 and draw a line from each of these points to the center mark at the top of the piece. You should have created the shape of a little house on the face of the board. Cut off the excess.

P R O J E C T:

A Cut Above Raised Garden Bed

Question: What beats the taste of home-grown tomatoes or peppers? Answer nothing! And the perfect planting spot makes all the difference in the world. With this simple project, you can create a raised garden bed anywhere you want it.

Tools & Materials:

4 2x8x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine boards 4 1x4x8 pressure-treated Southern Pine boards Screws designed for use with pressure-treated lumber Construction adhesive Landscape adhesive Drill Saw Router and bit (optional)

Preparing the Parts:

1. If you plan to paint any of the sides, this is the best time to do it while you can lay them at and use a roller or sprayer. We painted ours to match the home color and left the top rails natural for contrast. 2. On each end of the long sides, measure and drill pilot holes from the end and evenly spaced. This will help prevent the end grain from splitting. 3. Using a countersink bit or a drill bit the size of the screw head, drill a countersink hole for each of the screws, making sure the grain of the wood is cupped facing inward. 4. Measure and drill pilot and countersink holes approximately every 12 along the top rails. Be sure to measure in about an inch so that the screws will grab the sides in the middle of the top edge.

2. Using screws designed for pressure-treated lumber, install 3 at each corner, countersinking. You may need a friend to help you line up the ends on this step. 3. Once all 4 sides are connected, place the mitered rails along the top edges. When placed close together, they should overhang the sides by roughly - around the perimeter. 4. Use construction adhesive and screws designed for use with pressure-treated lumber to attach the rails to the sides. A. Optionally, you can drill pilot holes and drive screws into the mitered corners of the top rails, attaching them to each other. This will help prevent splitting at the miters. B. A second option is to dress the edges of the top rail with a router. We used an ogee bit to soften the hard edges slightly. 5. To ensure the bed stays in place, drive stakes into the ground at the four corners and attach them to the sides with screws. 6. Finally, install landscape fabric along the bottom and up the sides to inhibit weed growth. 7. Now its time to grow!

Cutting:
1. Square off one end of each of the 2x8x8s. Cut 2 of them to 95 long. Cut the remaining 2 to 92 long. Well refer to these as short and long sides. 2. Cut a 45 degree angle on each end of the 1x4x8s. Be sure they measure 96 on the long edges when youre done. These are the top rails.

Assembling:
1. Lay out both the long and short sides to form an 8 square. Again, be sure that all the end grain is cupped inward. This way, the boards will tend to move in the same direction and retain their shape more naturally.

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Materials:
1x6x8 Southern Pine boards 1x8x8 Southern Pine boards 1x10x8 Southern Pine boards Glue

P R O J E C T:

Funky Storage Locker

Funky storage is nothing new. As a matter of fact, old crates and boxes can make the perfect storage solution for a game room or the kids bedroom. If you dont have time to hit the garage sales to nd the perfect pieces, this retro, funky storage center is the perfect t. Its simple and fun to make, and you can decorate with any theme. Add your own vintage or whimsical paint treatments, and youll have a customized storage locker to keep the clutter at bay!

Preparing the Parts:

Finish nails/hammer Paint and tools Knobs, hooks and rope Furniture glides You can use a small plane or router to soften the edges of all the boards. This is a good idea, especially if the storage locker is going into the kids room.

Assembling:

(uprigHt crate)

Cutting:

Assembling:

(base crate)

(base crate)

1. From the 1x10x8s, cut 8 pieces to 24 (front, back, top and bottom) and 4 pieces to 18 (sides). 2. From the 1x3x8, cut 10 pieces to 19 long (corner cleats and runners). 3. Using the 1x8x8, cut 2 pieces to 24 and 2 pieces to 18. 4. Using the 1x4x8, cut 2 pieces to 19 (top cleats).

Cutting:

(uprigHt crate)

1. From the 1x8x8, cut 2 pieces to 36 (sides). 2. From the 1x8x8, cut 2 pieces to 18 (top and bottom). 3. From the 1x10x8, cut 1 piece to 36 (back ) 4. From the 1x6x8, cut 1 piece to 36 (back 2/2). Youll have to rip this piece to t precisely once the other half is in place. 5. From the 1x3x8, cut 4 pieces to 7 long (top and bottom cleats). 6. From the 1x4x8, cut 1 piece to 36 long (top valance).

Cutting:

(top crate)

1. From the 1x6x8, cut 2 pieces to 24 (front and back). 2. From the 1x6x8, cut 2 pieces to 14 (sides). 3. From the 1x3x8, cut 8 pieces to 5 (corner cleats).

1. Align 2 of the 18 long side pieces edge to edge. Glue and nail a cleat into place at both ends. Repeat for the second side. Allow glue to set. 2. Align 2 of the 24 long pieces on top of each other. Glue and nail a cleat on each end, but offset it to the outside. This will allow it to overlap the sides and give a connection point. Allow glue to set. 3. Stand the sides and front and back on edge, aligning them at the corners. Glue and nail through the front and rear cleats into the sides. Check to be sure its square and allow to dry. 4. Using another of the 24 long 1x 10 pieces, measure and cut to t inside bottom. Glue and nail into place. Measure and rip the other 24 long 1x10 to t into the bottom, then glue and nail into place. 5. Attach 19 long runners to bottom of base, aligning with outside edge and front and rear cleats. Glue and nail into place. Allow to dry. 6. For the top, glue and nail one of the remaining 24 long pieces of 1x10 toward the rear of the base. Measure and cut the last 24 long 1x10 and simply lay it in place on the front of the top. 7. Attach strap hinges 4 from the side to this piece and test for proper alignment. Sand or cut the board as needed to open and close smoothly. 8. Attach the top cleat to the top pieces, cutting at the hinge point and beveling each side at 45 degrees so that they will clear when the top is opened. 9. Install furniture glides on bottom runners. 10. Paint to suit.

1. Attach the sides to the top and bottom using glue and nish nails to form an open box 36 x 16. 2. Use glue and nails to attach one of the 1x12x24 pieces to the back. The second part of the back needs to be tted from a 1x6, then glued and nailed. 3. Measure and cut a 1x3 to act as a valance panel at the top. This will also serve as a stabilizer and could hide an optional light behind it!

Assembling:

(top crate)

1. Cut 2 1x6s to 24 and 2 to 14 1/2. Glue and nail these to form an open box. 2. The bottom is created using a piece of 1x12 and a scrap piece of 1x6. Both are glued and nailed into place. 3. The cleats at the corners are cut from 1x3s, then glued and nailed. 4. Paint to suit.

Important Note:
If you plan to stand the locker up as shown, be sure to securely attach each piece together using carriage bolts and lock washers. If the unit does not stand rmly against the wall, consider securing it to the wall studs for added stability. While its not meant for climbing, kids will be kids!