HS10

Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape1

Jonathan H. Crane, Carlos F. Balerdi, and Ian Maguire2

Scientific name: Musa acuminata and Musa
balbisiana
Common names for banana: English - banana,
plantain; Spanish - banano, platano, guineo, cambur
Common names for plantain: English -
plantain, horse banana; Spanish - platano
Family: Musaceae
Relatives of banana within the Order
Zingiberales: Numerous ornamental plants including
traveler's palm, bird-of-paradise, heliconia, and
ginger.
Introduction
Bananas are vigorously growing,
monocotyledonous herbaceous plants. There are two
species of banana, Musa acuminata and M.
balbisiana , and most banana cultivars are hybrids of
these species. Banana cultivars vary greatly in plant
and fruit size, plant morphology, fruit quality, and
disease and insect resistance. Most bananas have a
sweet flavor when ripe; exceptions to this are cooking
bananas and plantains.
Plantains are hybrid bananas in which the male
flowering axis is either degenerated, lacking, or
possesses only relicts of male flowers. Plantains are
always cooked before consumption and are higher in
starch than bananas. The two groups of plantains,
French and Horn, produce fewer fruit per plant than
sweet bananas. The groups differ in whether the male
parts of the inflorescence are persistent or absent.
History and Distribution
The banana and plantain are native to southeast
Asia, where they have been cultivated for thousands
of years. Bananas are believed to have been
introduced to Africa in prehistoric times. Recent
evidence suggests bananas were introduced into the
New World (Ecuador) by southeast Asians around
200 B.C., and more recently by Portuguese and
Spanish explorers in the early 16th century. The
Portuguese introduced bananas into the Canary
Islands and the Spanish to the Island of Hispaniola
during the 1500s.
Susceptibility to frost keeps the banana from
spreading beyond the tropics and the warm
subtropics. However, bananas are grown
commercially in a number of subtropical areas such

1. This document is HS-10, one of a series of the Department of Horticultural Sciences, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. First printed 1972 as FC-10. Major revision January 1998 and September 2005. Minor Revision October 2008.
Please visit the EDIS Website at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu or http://fruitscapes.ifas.ufl.edu
2. Jonathan H. Crane, Professor and Tropical Fruit Crops Specialist, Tropical Research and Education Center, Homestead, Florida, and Carlos F. Balerdi,
Professor and Multi-County Tropical Fruit Crops Extension Agent, Miami-Dade County Cooperative Extension Service; I. Maguire, Media Artist,
Tropical Research and Education Center, Homestead, Florida; Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611.

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and
other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex,
sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service,
University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Larry
Arrington, Dean
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
as Australia, Morocco, South Africa, Egypt, Israel,
the Canary Islands, and south Florida. In some areas,
bananas are grown inside plastic or glass covered
structures.
Plantains are an important food source in parts of
Africa, southern India, and throughout tropical
America. This is because of the ease and stability of
production and the highly nutritious nature of the
fruit.
Bananas have been grown in scattered locations
throughout Florida since their introduction during the
16th century. Limited commercial production has
occurred since the late 1800s. Florida is considered a
climatically marginal area for commercial banana
production due to our subtropical climate and
occasional freezes. However, small scale commercial
production does occur in southern Florida and
producers supply local and regional markets.
Uses
Bananas are eaten fresh and used in salads,
desserts, breads, and candy. Bananas are a good
source of ascorbic acid (Vit. C), Vitamin B 6 , and
potassium. Plantains are cooked before use and may
be baked, fried, or grilled. Plantains have similar
nutritive value as fresh eating bananas plus Vitamin
A, and are an excellent source of carbohydrate
(starch).
Banana plants may also be used in the home
landscape for ornamental purposes. The range in
plant sizes and color and fruit shapes add a tropical
atmosphere to the yard. In addition, trees may be
used as sun-screens to shade southeastern or western
walls.
Plant Description
Whole plant : The banana is a fast-growing plant
consisting of one or more pseudostems (upright,
trunk-like structures) formed by tightly packed
concentric layers of leaf sheaths, an underground
rhizome, and a fibrous root system. The entire plant is
called a mat. The pseudostem constitutes the
functional trunk which supports the leaves and the
flower and fruit bearing stalk.
2
Types of suckers:
• Sword suckers - small pseudostems (12-48
inches tall) with narrow leaves. Sword suckers
will develop into fruitful psuedostems at maturity
• Water suckers - small pseudostems (12-48
inches tall) with broad leaves. Water suckers are
not well attached to the rhizome and generally
produce weak plants and less fruit than sword
suckers.
• Peepers - very small pseudostems (1-12 inches
tall) that develop into either sword or water
suckers.
Rhizome (corm): A rhizome is an underground
stem with numerous meristems (growing points)
from which the pseudostems, flowering and fruiting
stalks, and fibrous roots arise.
Sheath and leaves : The banana leaf consists of
a long, tube-like structure called a sheath, a stout
petiole (leaf stalk), and a lamina or leaf blade. The
tight packing of numerous sheaths form the
pseudostem. One pseudostem may have over 40
leaves during its lifetime.
Roots : Numerous (200-500) fibrous roots arise
from the rhizome. In well drained, deep, fertile soils,
roots may extend 5 ft (1.5 m) deep and 16 ft (4.9 m)
laterally.
Flowers and fruit : The banana inflorescence
(flowering stalk) emerges from the center of the
pseudostem 10 to 15 months after planting; by this
time 26 to 32 leaves have been produced. The
process of banana flowering is called shooting. The
flowers appear spirally along the axis of the
inflorescence in groups of 10 to 20, covered by
purplish-to-greenish fleshy bracts which shed as
flowering development progresses. The first flowers
to emerge are functionally female. In the edible
cultivars, the rapidly growing ovaries develop
parthenocarpically (without pollination) into clusters
of fruits, called "hands." The fruit is a berry.
Although most banana cultivars produce seedless
fruit, some are fertile and can set seed. The last
flowers to emerge are functionally male. In plantains,
the male flowers may be absent or greatly reduced.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
The time from shooting to fruit harvest depends upon
temperature, cultivar, soil moisture, and cultural
practices and ranges from 80 to 180 days. The time
from planting a small banana sucker and harvest
ranges from 9 to 20 months depending upon
temperatures, cultivar, and cultural practices.
Environmental Factors
Temperature: Bananas flourish under
uniformly warm to hot conditions. Shoot growth is
best between 78°F to 82°F (26-28°C) and fruit
growth at 84°F to 86°F (29-30°C). Plant growth
slows below 60°F (16°C) and stops at 50°F
(10°C). Symptoms of chilling injury (temperatures
below 60°F/16°C but above 32°F/0°C) include
failure of the flowering stalk or fruit bunch to emerge
from the pseudostem (called choking), development
of a dull yellow or greenish-gray color to ripening
fruit, distorted fruit shape, and an increase in fruit
rotting.
Chilling damage and irreversible freeze damage
may occur at or below 32°F (0°C). Symptoms of
freeze damage include a water-soaked appearance to
all above ground parts of the banana plant and
desiccation, browning, and death of leaves,
pseudostems, and fruit. Temperatures below 28°F
(-2°C) may kill plants to the ground. However, new
growth usually sprouts from the underground
rhizome with the return of warm weather.
Temperatures at or above 98°F (37°C) may
result in leaf scorch and emerging new leaves may
have very narrow blades.
Wind: Wind is a common constraint in
subtropical production areas. In addition,
continuously windy weather may cause severe leaf
shredding (mild shredding may be beneficial), drying
of the leaves, and plant crown distortion. Winds
above 25 mph and 45 mph may cause tall and short
banana cultivars (respectively) to topple.
Drought and flooding: Temperature and soil
moisture are the most important factors in banana
production. Lack of water at anytime may cause a
reduction in fruit number and size and ultimate crop
yield. Banana cultivars with Musa balbisiana genes
tend to be more drought tolerant than cultivars of
3
Musa acuminata. Symptoms of drought stress include
folding of the leaves, pale green to yellow leaf color
development, and premature leaf death. Severe
drought stress may cause choking and pseudostem
collapse.
Banana plants are not flood tolerant. In general,
plants may survive 24 to 48 hours of flooding caused
by moving water. Stagnant water kills plants quickly.
Bananas should not be planted in flood-prone areas.
In areas where the water table is high and/or frequent
soil saturation or very brief flooding occurs, planting
on beds is recommended. Symptoms of continuously
wet but not flooded soil conditions include plant
stunting, leaf yellowing, and reduced yields.
Shade: Banana plants are reported to be
moderately shade tolerant (up to 50%). However,
shading delays plant and fruit growth and
development. In more subtropical areas like Florida,
full or near-full sun is recommended for best
production. Excessively shaded plants are stunted
and produce small, poor quality fruit.
Salinity: Banana plants do not grow or fruit well
in saline soils. Symptoms of salt damage include
yellowing and death of the leaf margins and thin,
deformed fruit.
Altitude: Depending upon the local climate,
bananas may be grown from sea level to 6,562 ft
(2,000 m).
Soils
Bananas do best on flat (slope 0-1%), well
drained, deep soils high in organic matter with a pH
of 5.5-7.0. However, many cultivars perform
satisfactorily on the sandy, loamy, muck, and
calcareous marl and rocky soils found in south
Florida. The most important factor is soil drainage.
In those areas susceptible to wet or flooded soil
conditions, sufficiently high beds or mounds should
be constructed and proper engineering (sloping) of
the land for water drainage should be done. The beds
will place most of the root system above the saturated
soil layer and proper sloping of the ditches between
beds should allow for drainage of excessive water off
the land.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
Propagation
The most common propagation material is
suckers, or pieces of the rhizome. There are 3 types
of suckers: maidenhead, a large non-fruiting
pseudostem (plus roots and some rhizome); sword
sucker, a sucker attached to the original (mother)
rhizome with narrow sword-like leaves, and; a water
sucker, a sucker next to but only superficially
attached to the mother rhizome with broad leaves.
Water suckers produce inferior fruit and are therefore
not recommended. Large sword suckers and
maidenheads are the preferred planting material.
Sword suckers should be removed from vigorous
clumps with a spade when they are 4-5 ft (1.2-1.5m)
tall. The largest leaves are cut off, leaving only the
youngest or none at all. Suckers should have many
healthy roots, without symptoms, such as nodulations
and internal lesions, of nematode or borer damage.
The pseudostems of maidenhead suckers are cut
down to 8 inches (20 cm) high and the remaining
rhizome is cut into "seed" pieces for planting. In the
event that healthy propagating material is not
available, the sucker is cut off and its rhizome is
pared of all damaged roots and dark tissue, or is cut
into pieces containing only white, healthy tissue and a
few buds. If nematodes are a problem in the area, it
is strongly recommended that nematode-free or hot
water treated (described under nematodes)
propagating material be used.
Bananas have recently begun to be commercially
propagated from meristems by tissue culture. The
advantage of this system is that plants are uniform
and free of nematodes and most diseases. The
disadvantage is the time it takes for small plants to be
grown to a sufficient size for sale from the nursery
and in some areas their lack of availability.
In south Florida, March, April and May are the
best months for planting if irrigation is available.
Otherwise planting should be delayed until the onset
of the rains in June. Planting holes should be large (3
ft wide by 2 ft deep; 0.9 m x 0.6 m) if possible.
Addition and mixing with the native soil of
completely composted organic matter or a sand-peat
moss mixture may be desirable. Plants should be
watered-in thoroughly, and a heavy layer of mulch
placed around the suckers immediately after planting
4
will assist in keeping the soil moist and will suppress
weeds.
Varieties
There are many banana cultivars. Parents of the
cultivated types are Musa acuminata and Musa
balbisiana , two wild species which are usually
seedy. Banana cultivars are complex diploid, triploid,
and tetraploid hybrids among M. acuminata and M.
balbisiana. In general, those with a high proportion
of M. acuminata produce sweet fruit, whereas those
with a high proportion of M. balbisiana produce
starchy fruit.
Conventionally, the relative contribution of M.
acuminata and M. balbisiana to the cultivar is
indicated with As and Bs, respectively. They are
further classified as to the presence of one or more
sets of chromosomes (called ploidy level). For
example, an AB is diploid, an AAB, triploid, and
ABBB, tetraploid. Triploid cultivars are the most
common, diploids somewhat less common, and
tetraploids, uncommon.
There are numerous banana and plantain
cultivars listed in Table 1 and Table 2. However,
many of them are not adapted to Florida's climate and
are not readily available. Cultivars have many local
names making identification of specific clones
difficult by common name. To help avoid this,
common names along with their A/B constitution and
ploidy level are used.
Comments on Selected Banana Cultivars in
Florida
There are two major diseases which limit
production of some banana cultivars. Sigatoka
disease is composed of two closely related fungal
organisms (commonly called Yellow Sigotoka and
Black Sigotoka) which attack and kill banana leaves.
This may weaken the plant dramatically and reduce
or eliminate fruit production. Black Sigatoka is more
of a problem in large commercial plantings than for
isolated clumps of bananas in the home landscape.
Black Sigatoka may or may not be a major problem
for most banana varieties in the home landscape in
Florida. Black and Yellow Sigatoka are more of a
problem during continuously raining conditions.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
Panama disease is a fungal disease that attacks
the banana roots and colonizes the conducting tissue
of the pseudostem, causing the plant to collapse. In
the home landscape situation, soil infested with
Panama disease will limit the varieties that may be
successfully grown.
'Gros Michel' (AAA) does not produce well in
Florida. It has poor cold tolerance and is susceptible
to Panama disease and Sigatoka. It is not
recommended for planting in the home landscape.
In general, the Cavendish group (AAA) is
resistant to Panama disease, but is susceptible to
Sigatoka disease. The characteristic that
distinguishes the best known clones is the height of
the pseudostem. The tallest clone is 'Lacatan'
followed by 'Robusta' and 'Giant Cavendish,' 'Grand
Nain,' and 'Dwarf Cavendish.' 'Valery,' a common
type in Central America, is considered the same as
'Robusta' by some taxonomists. 'Dwarf Cavendish'
produces large bunches of medium-sized fruit. It is
widely planted and better adapted to the cool climate
of the subtropics than most other commercial
cultivars. 'Dwarf Cavendish' is recommended for
south Florida where, in frost-free years and with good
care, it produces abundant fruit. One disadvantage to
the 'Dwarf Cavendish' is its susceptibility to Black
Sigatoka disease. Another with reported tolerance to
cool subtropical areas is 'Williams' (also called
'Williams Hybrid').
There are many cultivars named 'Ladys Finger.'
The most common 'Ladys Finger' in south Florida is
an AAB, also called 'Pome,' 'Brazilian,' and 'Prata'.
It is a tall-growing clone tolerant to cool conditions
with small, sweet fruit. However, because of its
susceptibility to wind damage and Panama disease, it
should only be planted in wind protected areas and
land not previously infested with this disease.
There are numerous common cultivars named
'Apple'. The most common 'Apple' in south Florida
is an AAB. It is also called 'Silk,' 'Manzana,' and
'Manzano'. It is a dessert-type banana with a
pleasant, sub-acid flavor when fully ripe and is
common in the Caribbean. The plant is
medium-sized and susceptible to Sigatoka and
Panama disease. It is only recommended for home
5
landscape planting in Panama disease-free sites with
disease-free planting material.
'Hua moa' (AAB) also called 'Hawaiano' is a
leading cultivar in south Florida despite its
susceptibility to Panama disease and poor cold
tolerance. The fruit can be eaten fresh or cooked and
makes excellent fried green and smashed bananas.
'Hua moa' requires intensive care and is
recommended only for planting with disease-free
material in warm, protected sites free of Panama
disease.
There are several relatively new banana cultivars
that produce excellent quality fruit and have
resistance to one or more major banana diseases (i.e.,
Panama and Sigatoka diseases). 'FHIA-01' (also
called 'Goldfinger') is an excellent dessert banana
with resistance to Panama disease and Yellow and
Black Sigatoka. 'FHIA-02' (also called 'Mona Lisa')
is resistant to Sigatoka but susceptible to Panama
disease. 'FHIA-03' is primarily a cooking banana but
may be eaten fresh and is resistant to Panama, Moko,
and Sigatoka diseases. 'FHIA-17' is a dessert banana
with resistance to Panama disease and tolerance to
Sigatoka. 'FHIA-21' is resistant to Back Sigotoka
disease. These banana varieties are highly
recommended for the home landscape.
Planting a Banana Plant
Site Selection and Spacing
In general, banana plants should be planted in
full sun for best growth and fruit production.
However, banana plants do tolerate light shade. In
general, select a part of the landscape away from
other trees, buildings and structures, and power lines.
Banana plants may be planted 10 ft or more adjacent
to outdoor walls as a sunscreen. Caution, placing
banana plants near windows may be hazardous
because of potential toppling during strong winds.
Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not
flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rainfall
events.
Planting distance for banana plants varies with
the ultimate size of the variety. Dwarf or small
stature banana plants may be planted 20 ft or more
from other plants but may be planted as close as 8 ft
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
from other dwarf or small stature banana plants.
Large banana varieties should be planted 12 or more
feet from other banana plants to leave room for
expansion of the mat.
With judicious watering, fertilization, timely
weeding, pseudostem pruning, and the use of large
healthy suckers for planting material, fruits will
mature in 10- 24 months after planting. The time
from planting rhizomes to first harvest usually takes
longer to produce fruit and the first bunch is, as a rule,
smaller than normal.
Planting in Sandy Soil
Many areas in Florida have sandy soil. Remove
a 3 to 10 ft (0.9-3.1 m) diameter ring of grass sod.
Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times a
deep as the container the banana plant has come in.
Making a large hole loosens the soil adjacent to the
new tree making it easy for the roots to expand into
the adjacent soil. It is not necessary to apply
fertilizer, topsoil, or compost to the hole. In fact,
placing topsoil or compost in the hole first and then
planting on top of it is not desirable. If you wish to
add topsoil or compost to the native soil, mix it with
the soil excavated from making the hole in no more
than a 50-50 ratio.
Backfill the hole with some of the native soil
removed to make the hole. Remove the plant from
the container and place it in the hole so that the top of
the soil media in the container is level with or slightly
above the surrounding soil level. Fill soil in around
the plant roots and tamp slightly to remove air
pockets. Immediately water the soil around the plant
and plant roots. Staking the plant with a wooden or
bamboo stake is optional. However, do not use wire
or nylon rope to tie the tree to the stake as they may
eventually damage the tree trunk as it grows. Use a
cotton or natural fiber string that will degrade
slowly
Planting in Rockland Soil
Many areas in Miami-Dade County have a very
shallow soil and several inches below the soil surface
is a hard calcareous bedrock . Remove a 3 to 10 ft
(0.9-3.1 m) diameter ring of grass sod. Make a hole 3
to 4 times the diameter and 3 times a deep as the
6
container the banana plant has come in. To dig a hole
there are several options: use a pick and digging bar
to break up the rock or contract with a company that
has augering equipment or a backhoe. Plant as
directed in the section above.
Planting on a mound
Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft (2.1 m) or
so of the water table and experience occasional
flooding after heavy rainfall events. To improve plant
survival consider planting fruit trees on a 2 to 3 ft
(0.6-0.9 m) high by 4 to 10 ft (1.2-3.1 m) diameter
mound of native soil.
After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times
the diameter and 3 times a deep as the container the
banana plant has come in. In areas where the bedrock
nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil) follow the
recommendations for the previous section. In areas
with sandy soil follow the recommendations from the
section on planting in sandy soil.
Care of a Banana Plant (Mat) in the
Home Landscape
A calendar outlining the month-to-month
cultural practices for banana is shown in Table 3.
Fertilizer
Banana plants need fertile conditions and an
abundance of soil moisture for best growth and
production. The type of development the plant makes
in the first 3 to 4 months determines the weight of the
bunch and the number of hands. Consequently, it is
essential to provide the best of care during this
period.
In soils with low fertility, such as the sandy and
calcareous soils of south Florida, bananas should be
fertilized frequently (4 to 6 times) for maximum
production. The potash requirement is high and
fertilizers with a high K2O content should be used,
e.g., N-P2O5 -K2O in a ratio of 3-1-6. The amount of
fertilizer depends on size and age of the stalk and on
the number of stalks per clump (Table 4).
Young plants should be started with 1/2 lb (0.23
kg) of a 6-2-12 or similar formula (3-1-6 ratio) with
2-3% magnesium applied every 2 months, and
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
increasing gradually to 5.0 lb to 6.0 lb (2.3-2.7 kg) at
flowering and fruiting time, 10 to 18 months later.
In Florida, at least one nutritional spray
containing manganese and zinc is recommended
annually. Sources of these elements available at
garden centers may be used; follow label directions.
Copper should be included in the spray if no
copper-containing fungicide is used. Banana plants
growing in acid sandy soils may be fertilized with 0.5
to 1.0 lb dry iron sulfate 1 to 2 times during the
warmer part of the year. Banana plants growing in
high pH, calcareous soils may be fertilized with 1 to 2
oz of chelated iron material (EDDHA) during the
warmer part of the year.
Irrigation (Watering)
Bananas require large amounts of water and are
very sensitive to drought. Drought results in
increased time to flowering and fruiting, reduced fruit
size, fruit number, and crop yields. Bananas need
about 4 to 6 inches (102-152 mm) of water per month
for normal growth and production. Thus about 1 to
1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) of water should be applied per
week. This is especially important during prolonged
dry weather conditions.
Since an adequate soil moisture is essential for
good production, particularly during the dry months
of the year, provision should be made for irrigation.
However, caution should be exercised against
over-irrigation. Bananas are extremely susceptible to
damage by flooding, continuously wet soils, and soil
with inadequate drainage.
Weed Control
Weeds should be controlled adjacent to banana
plants and mats at all times. Weeds compete for water
and nutrients with the plant and reduce fruit
production. Maintain a weed-free area of 2 to 6 ft
around the banana mat with a well draining organic
mulch. Apply 2 to 6 inches of mulch from the base
of the pseudostems outward. Caution, do not apply
systemic herbicides to the trunk area of banana plants
as this may cause them to decline or die.
7
Diseases, Insects, and Nematode Problems
There are several major diseases, one major
insect, and several nematode species which attack
bananas in south Florida.
Panama disease (Fusarium wilt) . Panama
disease is of worldwide importance and is caused by
the soil borne fungus Fusarium oxysporum f. sp.
cubense. There are four known races of the disease,
three of which attack one or more banana cultivars.
Symptoms of the disease do not appear on young
suckers. On mature plants symptoms include
progressive yellowing and eventual death from older
to younger leaves, so that only the youngest emerging
leaf may remain; brown and black discoloration and
slimy appearance of the water conducting vascular
system (it may give off a bad odor as well); and death
of the plant. At present there is no chemical control
available. The only effective control measures are
planting in land not infested with the fungus, the use
of disease-free propagation material, and the planting
of cultivars with resistance to the disease (Table 1 and
Table 2). Plantains are resistant to the fungus.
Sigatoka (Yellow Sigatoka and Black
Sigatoka). Black sigatoka and yellow sigatoka are of
worldwide importance; in general, where the two
diseases are found, Black sigatoka dominates as the
most severe disease causing fungus. Black sigatoka
is an important leaf disease in Florida. Yellow
sigatoka is caused by the fungus Mycosphaerella
musicola and black sigatoka y M. fijiensis. Symptoms
of yellow sigatoka begin as pale green flecks that
become brown with yellow haloes. As the disease
progresses infected areas coalesce forming large
areas of dead leaf tissue. Black sigatoka begins as
minute reddish-brown flecks on the lower leaf surface
but as the infection progresses dark flecks may be
seen on the upper leaf surface as well. As the disease
progresses the dark areas with yellow haloes
surrounding dead leaf tissue coalesce until the entire
leaf is killed. Warm temperatures, high humidity, and
frequent rainfall are ideal for disease development.
Sigatoka does not kill the plant but causes premature
defoliation which results in reduced crop yield.
Banana cultivars differ in their susceptibility to
sigatoka with the Cavendish group (AAA) and
'Pome' (AAB) bananas being highly susceptible.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
'Sucrier' (AA), 'Bluggoe' (ABB), and 'Silk' (AAB)
are of intermediate susceptibility, while 'Mysore' is
only slightly susceptible. Fungicides are available for
control but may not be necessary for banana plants in
the home landscape. For more information, please
contact your local Cooperative Extension Agent.
Banana borer or weevil (Cosmopolites
sordidus) . The banana borer lays eggs at the base of
the pseudostem and the larvae bore into the
pseudostems and rhizome causing extensive damage.
Young plants may be killed by extensive tunneling
and mature plants may weaken and topple with a
subsequent reduction in yield. Control of the pest
includes use of clean (non-infested) planting material
and sanitation (removal and/or grinding up old
pseudostems). For more information, please contact
your local Cooperative Extension Agent.
Sugar cane weevil (Metamasius hemipterus) .
The sugar cane weevil causes similar damage and
problems as the banana weevil. The larvae tunnel
into the pseudostem, building galleries that weaken
the plant. For more information, please contact your
local Cooperative Extension Agent.
Burrowing nematode (Radopholus similis) and
spiral nematode (Helicotylenchus multicinctus).
Feeding of the burrowing nematode causes extensive
damage to the root system and rhizome of banana.
The spiral nematode causes extensive damage to the
fibrous root system. Injured plants are susceptible to
invasion by pathogens and toppling. Purchase and
use of non-infested plant material (tissue culture
plants, suckers or rhizomes) is the best control. If
possible inspect the root system and base of the
sucker for dead roots prior to purchasing. For more
information, please contact your local Cooperative
Extension Agent.
Pruning the Banana Mat
Pruning the banana mat is necessary for best
vegetative growth and fruit production. Allowing
numerous pseudostems to grow from a single mat
may lead to small bunches of low quality fruit and
encourage disease development. In addition,
competition among pseudostems prolongs the time to
flowering and to harvest.
8
A banana pseudostem (stalk) produces fruit only
once. After harvest, the stalk is cut off at the base and
chopped into small pieces which are left on the
ground and incorporated in as mulch. New
pseudostems (follow-up stalks, sword suckers) which
have been allowed to grow from the rhizome (also
called a mat) will produce the next crop. For best
production, there must be ample space between plants
to avoid crowding and competition for water, light
and nutrients.
The number of pseudostems and their
replacement is controlled by cutting off new suckers
as soon as they appear. A good practice consists of
having only one pseudostem flowering and fruiting,
one pseudostem about half grown, and one small
sucker or peeper per mat. Cutting unwanted suckers
or peepers off at ground level and then gouging out as
much as possible of what remains with a metal
digging bar or piece of rebar will kill the underground
bud. It is important that the internal bud is killed,
otherwise regrowth occurs very quickly and it takes
an unnecessary amount of labor to keep suckers from
growing.
Though labor intensive, the cutting of dead
leaves and of leaves that rub against the bunch is
recommended. Removing the end of the flowering
stalk which has no fruit and hangs below the last hand
of bananas will speed fruit development if done
immediately after the female flowers have set fruit.
Banana Plants and Lawn Care
Banana plants in the home landscape are
susceptible to pseudostem injury caused by lawn
mowers and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2
to 5 ft or more away from the pseudostem. Never hit
the pseudostem with lawn mowing equipment and
never use a weed eater near the pseudostem.
Mechanical damage to the pseudostem of the plant
will result in weakening the pseudostem and if severe
enough can cause the psuedostem to decline or die.
Roots of mature banana plants (mats) spread 6 to
10 ft beyond the mat and use of some feed and weed
materials of the lawn adjacent to a mat is not
recommended and may reduce fruiting and or fruit
quality. The use of lawn sprinkler systems on a timer
may result in over watering and cause banana plants
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape 9

to decline. This is because too much water, too often

is being applied which results in root rot.

Mulch

Mulching banana mats in the home landscape

helps retain soil moisture, reduces weed problems
adjacent to the tree trunk, and improves the soil near
the surface. Mulch with a 2 to 6 inch (5-15 cm) layer
of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material.

Harvesting
Bunches are generally harvested when the
fingers are plump but before they begin to turn
yellow. However, bananas may be picked at different
times for different purposes. In general, bananas for
fresh consumption in the home landscape may be
picked when they have reached or nearly reached the
normal size for a particular variety. Usually, this is
when the edges of the fruit have smoothed out and the
sides of the fruit have swelled. Homeowners may
want to harvest fruit 7 to 14 days prior to ripening on
the plant. Hanging the fruit in a shady, cool place to
ripen seems to allow development of better flavor
than if allowed to ripen on the plant. Bananas may
also be cooked and consumed when still green or
when very ripe as is done with plantains. The FHIA
banana varietes 01, 02, 03 and 21 may be eaten fresh
when ripe or cooked when green. Bananas are a good
source of nutrients, especially potassium (Table 5).

Bananas should not be refrigerated prior to

ripening as this will cause chilling injury. Symptoms
of chilling injury include inability to ripen or ripen
properly, discoloration of the peel and/or pulp, and
poor flavor. Generally, not all the bananas on a stalk
ripen simultaneously allowing consumption of the
fruit over an extended period of time.

Banana yields vary considerably depending on

many factors, but bunches weighing 25 to 40 lbs per
pseudostem may be expected. Well cared for banana
plants may produce bunches up to 100 lbs. Factors
such as weather, pests and diseases, and cultural
practices affect the life of a banana planting.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape 10

Table 1. Selected banana cultivars that may be available in south Florida.

4 1
Species Subgroup Ploidy Group Selected cultivars and synonyms T Pan. Recom.
2 3
Level Susc. Use
5 5 5 5 5
M. --- Diploid AA Nino, Lady's Finger , Sucrier , Honey , Datil , Bocadillo , P R N
5
acuminata Pisang mas
5 5 5
--- Triploid AAA Gros Michel, Pisang ambon , Guineo gigante , Banano , P S N
5
Platano roatan
5 5
Cavendish AAA Dwarf Cavendish, Dwarf Chinese , Pisang serendah , F R H, C
5 5 5
Governor , Enano , Johnson
Cavendish AAA Dwarf Red, Green Red F R H, C
Cavendish AAA Giant Cavendish, Giant Chinese, Mons mari, Williams, F-G R H, C?
5
Williams Hybrid , Pisang buai, Robusta, Valery, Porto Rique
Cavendish AAA Grand Nain, Umalog F R H, C
5 5
Cavendish AAA Red, Cuban Red , Red Jamaican F R H, C
5 5 5
Cavendish AAA Lacatan, Pisang masak hijau , Monte Cristo , Giant Fig F R H
1
Cold tolerance temperature rating: G, good cold tolerance; F, fair cold tolerance; P, poor cold tolerance; ?, not known.
2
Panama disease rating for south Florida: R, resistant; S, susceptible - recommend planting only in Panama disease-free soil with disease-free material.
3
Recommended use: H, home landscape; C, commercial; C?, may have commercial possibilities for Florida; N, not recommended.
4
Common name used locally is underlined.
5
Another common name for the highlighted cultivar name preceeding it.
6
Cooking banana.

Table 2. Selected banana cultivars that may be available in south Florida.

4 1
Species Subgroup Ploidy Group Selected cultivars and synonyms T Pan. Recom.
2 3
Level Susc. Use
5 5 5
M. --- Diploid AB Ney poovan, Ladys Finger , Apple , Farine France ? R H
acuminata
x M.
balbisiana
hybrids
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape 11

Table 2. Selected banana cultivars that may be available in south Florida.

5
--- Triploid AAB Pisang raja, Grindy F R H
5 5 5
--- AAB Mysore, Pisang keling , Poovan , Thousand Grain G R H
5 5 5 5 5
--- AAB Apple, Silk , Pisang rastali , Manzana , Ma , Sugar , F S H, C
5
Manzano
5 5 5 5
--- AAB Ladys Finger, Pome , Pisang kelat jambi , Brazilian , Prata G S H
6 5
--- AAB Hua moa , Hawaiano P S H
5
Plantain/ AAB Green French, Banane creole , Pink French, Wine, Banae F-P R H
5 5 5
French Types rouge , Black French, Banae noire , Tiger, Banae Puce ,
5
Giant, Banae cent livres
Plantain/Horn AAB Horse plantain, Banane corne, Dominico Gigante, Pisang P R H
types tandok, Common plantain
6 5 5 5 5 5
--- ABB Bluggoe , Burro , Chato , Moko , Orinoco , Horse banana F-G S H, C?
6 5 6 6
--- ABB Pisang awak , Kluai nam wa , Pisang abukeling , Largo , F-G S H
6 6 5
ApplePlantain , Ice cream , Blue java

6 6 6
--- ABB Pelipita , Saba , Cardaba ? R H
New Tetraploids AABB FHIA-01 ('Goldfinger') G R H, C
varieties
--- FHIA-02 ('Mona Lisa') G R H, C
--- FHIA-03 G R H, C
--- FHIA-17 G R H, C
--- FHIA-21 G R H, C
1
Cold tolerance temperature rating: G, good cold tolerance; F, fair cold tolerance; P, poor cold tolerance; ?, not known.
2
Panama disease rating for south Florida: R, resistant; S, susceptible - recommend planting only in Panama disease-free soil with disease-free material.
3
Recommended use: H, home landscape; C, commercial; C?, may have commercial possibilities for Florida; N, not recommended.
4
Common name used locally is underlined.
5
Another common name for the highlighted cultivar name preceeding it.
6
Cooking banana.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape 12

Table 3. Cultural calendar for banana production in the home landscape.

Operation Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

1
General Apply nitrogen-phosphate-potash-magnesium containing fertilizers every 4 to 8 weeks throughout the year.
Less may be applied during the winter (i.e., Nov.-Feb.) because of less nutrient demand during cooler weather
conditions.
Nutritional Apply 1 or more foliar nutritional sprays containing
sprays magnesium, manganese, and zinc during this time.
Iron Soil applied iron may be applied during the warm season 1 to 2
applications times.

Watering Banana plants should be watered regularly during any dry period without substantial rainfall.
Insect Monitor the base of banana pseudostems (stalks) for signs of weevil infestation throughout the year. Use
2
control insect-free planting material to establish any new plants or plantings.
Disease Monitor banana leaves for sigatoka infestation. Periodic applications of copper and/or horticultural oil may be
2
control beneficial during prolonged wet periods (i.e., during summer) although this may not be necessary for banana
plants in the home landscape.
Pruning Maintain 3 to 4 pseudostems (stalks) of different ages: 1 stem that is flowering and/or fruiting; 1 that is 1/2 to
2/3 the size of the stalk with flowers and fruit; 1 to 2 sword suckers (small 6 inches to 3 ft tall) throughout the
year.
1, The potash requirement for banana is high and fertilizers with a high potash (K 0) content should be used, e.g., N-P O
2 2 5
-K O in a ratio of 3-1-6.
2
2, Monitor plants for signs of insect and disease infestation throughout the year. Contact your local County Cooperative
Extension Agent for current control recommendations.

Table 4. Fertilizer program for banana plants in the home landscape.

Months from Times per 6 Amount/mat/ Nutritional Iron

1
planting a months application sprays applications
2
sucker or (lbs) (times/year) (times per
3
piece of year)
rhizome

1-6 3 0.50-1.0 1-2 1-2

6-12 3 1.0-2.0 1-2 1-2

12-18 3 2.0-3.0 1-2 1-2

18+ 3 3.0-4.0 1-2 1-2

1, Dry fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphate, potash, and magnesium should

be applied every 2 months throughout the year.
2, Foliar applications of micronutrients may be made 1 to 2 times per year;
follow label instructions.
3, Iron applications should be made to the soil 1 to 2 times per year.
Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape 13

1
Table 5. Nutrient value of raw banana fruit (3.5 oz or 100 g).

Constituent Approximate Constituent Approximate Constituent Approximate

value value value

Water 75% Carbohydrate 22.8 g Phosphorus 22 mg

content
Calories 89 kcal Total dietary 2.6 g Potassium 358 mg
fiber
Protein 1.1 g Calcium 5 mg Sodium 1 mg

Fat 0.33 g Iron 0.26 mg Vit. C 8.7 mg

Cholesterol 0.0 g Magnesium 27 mg Vit. A 64 IU

1, Data from USDA National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference at

http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search/.