Wiring

***info from SupraCharged.com***

The C1 connector (yellow connector near igniter) has 2 wires that yo
will use if you use the EFI main relay in conjunction with the circui
opening relay. Wires that you may need from this connector

Black/Orange - (M-REL on ECU, not required) - Used as the activatin

power to the EFI Main Rela

Black/Yellow - (BATT on ECU, required) - constant power, use a 7.

amp FUS

EFI Main Relay - In the Supra turbo and other Toyota Turbo vehicles
the ECU controls the EFI Main (M-REL off the ECU. ) In Toyota non
-turbo cars and trucks, the EFI Main is controle d by the ignition switch
You don't have to change this, as I have not seen any problem
running it this way, unless you are picky and want to have it exactl
the same as the turbo configuration

If you do want to run it like the 7MGTE, you will have to cut the rela
coil power wire that goes into the EF
main. The location of the EFI main will vary depending on the year o
your vehicle. You will need connect th
M-REL wire from the C1 connector, and use it to power your factor
EFI main. Again, this will be the Black/Orange wire at the C
connector. The output of the EFI main should then supply the power t
the Circuit Opening Relay

The Circuit Opening Relay (COR) is what supplies power to the fue
pump. The power that is sent to the COR then to the fuel pump come
from the EFI Main Relay, so the EFI main must be activated befor
power can be supplied to the COR. The COR has a dual coil fo
activation, one of the relay coils can be activated by the starter. This i
done by supplying power from the starter wire to the relay coil whic
has a constant ground. That wire is a small guag e black wire with blu
stripe coming from the large yellow connector (B1) by the ECU. Jus
tie this wire into your starter wire. The other coil is activated by the
Fuel Control, or FC (B1 connector) from the ECU. The ECU sends a
ground signal to the COR, and if relay has power from the EFI main
relay(discussed earlier), then the COR will supply power to the fuel
pump, or the Fuel Pump Control Relay if you wish to use it. If you are
running a non-turbo engine, the COR is controled by the green wire
going into the AFM, not the ECU. You can splice into that green wire
and tie that into the green wire on your project vehicles AFM
connector. That will take care of the pump problem.

Fuel Pump Control Relay(FPCR) - (Not Required)- Once power is able

to pass through the COR, there is then a FPCR.

This is just a resister to change the voltage to the fuel pump. I have
run many swap without this without any problems or any changes in
gas mileage. This recieves power from the COR for both the contact
switch, and the relay coil. The ground is controled by the FP (B1
connector) signal coming from the ECU.

Both the FPCR and COR are not needed to make this run properly, but
you will need to find an alternate way to control the fuel pump. At first
I just had mine connected to the ignition switch. Problem with that, is
your fuel pump is always if your ignition is on(like if you get in a
wreck, you pump will keep pumping fuel....not good).

Summary
In short, if all that was confusing, the only thing you really need to do
on the C1 connector is hook the black/yellow wire to constant power.
Then for the fuel pump control, hook the green wire up the the FC
from the ECU. The 7MGE(non-turbo), does not have a FC from the
ECU, instead you will splice the green wire into the 7M engine harness
near the 7M AFM connector. I hope after all this, you aren't confused
too much.

The B1 connector, or "THE BIG YELLOW CONNECTOR, near the ECU"

There are 5 wires you will use grom this connector:
BLACK/WHITE - Large 10 guage Black with a white stripe - Starter
(depending on year, AT/MT, this could have a white or blue stripe)

Black/orange - Large 10 or 12 guage black with a orange stripe -

Needs switched power. This runs directly from the ignition switch, and
powers your injectors, coil, and igniter.

Black/orange - Small 16 guage black with orange stripe. This also

needs switched power. This could be tied into the Large black/orage
wire.

Green - (FC on ECU) - Green wire - This controls ground the Circuit
Opening Relay

yellow - (FP on ECU) - Yellow wire - NOT NEEDED! this is used to

reduce the voltage on the fuel pump, but is not
neccesary.

Starter
This is the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. It is located in the
center part of the connector. In a
manual, this will travel from the ignition switch, through the clutch
switch, through the starter relay, then
through this connector. Automatics are a little more difficult. If you do
have an auto wiring harness, the starter wire run through the engine
harness, to the tranny harness under the intake manifold. You will
need to cut and splice the wires togother in order to complete the loop
to feed power to the starter solenoid. The auto will usually use a
Black/White wire, and the manual will use a Black/Blue wire. In some
vehicles such as the 85-older supra's, and I have noticed older model
pickups, that this wire goes through tho body harness. If this is the
case, you will have to figure out where that is, splice into it, and run it
to this connector. On newer vehicles the starter will run through the
engine harness.
Accessory Power
This is a large black wire with an orange stripe. Along with the starter,
these are the two center wires in this
connector. You have to have switched power to this wire in order to
supply power to your injectors, coil, and igniter. This usually comes
through the ignition, and requires at least 15 amps. In other words,
don't use the
power from your radio.

Circuit Opening Relay(Ground)

The green wire coming from the FC signal from the ECU, controls the
ground on the Circuit Opening Relay. As long as there is power to this
relay(which is discussed on the C1 connector), power will then travel
to the fuel pump, or Fuel Pump Control Relay. This allows your fuel
pump only to turn on when the engine is running. When the engine
stops running, the ECU will cut the ground signal to this wire, which
will turn off the Circuit Opening Relay, and no longer supply power to
the fuel pump.

Fuel Pump Control Relay(Ground)- This is for the resister, and is not
needed This yellow wire from the FP signal on the ECU, is used for a
dual speed fuel pump setting. The ECU will supply a ground to the Fuel
Pump Control Relay, which will then change the resistance on the
power going to the fuel pump.

The relay and resistor is located on the passenger side strut tower. I
have run many swaps without this component, and have not seen any
impact on fuel economy or peformance.

The M1 connector or "Small Yellow Connector" There are 5 wires you

need from this connector:

Yellow/Black - yellow with a black stripe - oil pressure for guage and
ECU
Yellow/Green - Yellow with a green stripe - Water temp for guage

Pink - Pink Wire - speed sensor from Combonation Meter.

Green/Gray - Green with gray stripe - Engine light black - Tach (tach
mod may be required) Click here for details for 3VZE-7MGTE mod.

Water Temp
The water temp wire, yellow with black stripe is used for your guage
only. This is not the temp sensor used for your ECU, so if you get a
water temp error on your codes, this is not where you want to look to
solve your problem. All toyota vehicles use this color wire for the temp
guage, so your swap vehicle will have the same color wire.

Oil Pressure
The same is also true with the Oil Pressure wire. This comes from the
oil pressure sending unit and will always
be the same color. Yellow with black stripe. On the 7M, this also feeds
into the ECU. I am not really sure why
the ECU needs to know the oil pressure, as I have found it to have no
impact on the way the engine runs whether or not it is hooked up to
the ECU. In fact, your guage might not even work if it runs through
the ECU. You also may need to use your Oil sending unit from your old
motor. They are calibrated for the guage on your vehicle. These are
pretty easy to change with a 14mm open end wrench, or a very large
socket.

Engine Light
The Engine light requires a ground signal from the ECU. This is a black
wire. Simple as that. Check your vehicles wiring diagram to figure out
what what that is. The 7M uses the black wire, but on other vehicles, I
have seen any different colors used. With the engine light, you can run
your diagnostic codes, or engine codes by connecting TE and E1 in
your "Check Connector" near the igniter. When you turn your ignition
on, your light will flash codes. Here is a link for your Diagnostic Codes

Speed Sensor
The Speed Sensor wire, green with gray strip, comes from the
Spedometer from your instrument cluster. This is how the ECU knows
how fast your are going. I have noted, that connecting this wire will
help with stalling. The wire etween the M1 connector and the ECU is
pink, but the wire between the M1 connector and the Spedometer
could be a range of colors. Refer to your vehicles electrical schematic
to figure this out(EFI ONLY).

Tachometer
The Tach wire, black wire, does NOT come from the ECU, and it does
NOT go to the ECU. A signal wire goes directly
from the igniter to your tach guage. You can also test this signal from
the IG- terminal in the "Check Connector" near the igniter. And again,
here is a link for the 3VZE tach mod.

***from 4RnrRick***

Important Wiring Connections for 1989 Toyota Cressida, Non-

California, US model.
Please refer to a Cressida FSM for wire numbers in the plugs as I don’t
feel like scanning a picture of each plug wire configuration.
(*) = means this must be connected to the vehicles wiring

B1 Connection - Dark Gray in color - located next to the intake plenum

Refer to as C1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *IGN SW2 from AM2 Fuse, B-R
#2, *IGN SW2 from AM2 Fuse, B-R
#3, *EFI Main Relay #4*, B-R w/ Red dots

N1 Connection – Gray in color - located under the EGR

Auto Transmission Indicator Switch
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *Backup Light Switch, R-B
#2, *Jumper to #3 to bypass Neutral Start Switch, B
#3, *Jumper to #2 to bypass Neutral Start Switch, B-W

N15 Connection – Gray in color - located under the EGR

Auto Transmission Indicator Switch
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *I made this my new 4WD Indicator (was park light), G-W
#2, Ignore
#3, Ignore
#4, Ignore
#5, *Backup Light Power, Y w/Red dots
#6, Ignore

C1 Connection – White in color wrapped in foam - located next to the

ECU
Refer to as M1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *Tach, B-Y w/ Silver dots
#2, *Water Temp, Y-B w/ Silver dots
#3, *Ground, Br w/ Silver dots
#4, *Oil Pressure, Y w/ Silver dots
#5, Removed from plug
#6, *New 4WD Light, G-W w/ Silver dots
#7, Removed from plug
#8, Removed from plug
#9, Removed from plug
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Removed from plug
#12, Removed from plug

T3 Connection – Dark Gray in color - plugged into the ECU

Do nothing
T4 Connection – Dark Gray in color - plugged into the ECU
Do nothing

T5 Connection – Dark Gray in color - plugged into the ECU

Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *EFI Main Relay #2, W-R w/ Red dots
#2, *IGN Fuse, B-W w/ Silver Dots
#3, Removed from plug
#4, *EFI Main Relay #3 (M-Rel), Gray w/ Red Dots
#5, *Check Engine, TDCL (W), Y-R w/ Silver dots
#6, Fuel Pump Relay #3, G-R w/ Silver dots
#7, TDCL (TT), LG w/ Silver dots
#8, Removed from plug
#9, *Speed Sensor, V-W w/ Silver dots
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Circuit Opening Relay #3 & Starter Fuse & Cold start Injector, B
w/ Red dots
#12, *EFI Main Relay #4 (+B), B-R w/ Silver dots
#13, *EFI Main Relay #4 (+B1), B-R w/ Silver dots
#14, Removed from plug
#15, Removed from plug
#16, Removed from plug
#17, Removed from plug
#18, Removed from plug
#19, Removed from plug
#20, Removed from plug
#21, Removed from plug
#22, Neutral Start Switch, B-W w/ Silver dots

T6 Connection – Dark Gray in color - Under steering column

TDCL – Toyota Diagnostic Communication Link
Remove everything from this plug except the connections from B2 &
T5

B2 Connection – Dark Gray in color - small plug located next to the

ECU
Refer to as part of the B1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Removed from plug
#2, Removed from plug
#3, Removed from plug
#4, Removed from plug
#5, Removed from plug
#6, Removed from plug
#7, Removed from plug
#8, Removed from plug
#9, Removed from plug
#10, Removed from plug
#11, TDCL (TE2), LG-R w/ Silver dots
#12, TDCL (TE1), LG-B w/ Silver dots
#13, TDCL (ENG), Gray w/ Silver dots
#14, TDCL (E1), Brown w/ Silver dots
#15, Removed from plug
#16, Removed from plug

B3 Connection – Dark Gray in color - large plug located next to the

ECU
Refer to as part of the B1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Removed from plug
#2, Removed from plug
#3, Removed from plug
#4, *Backup Lights, R-B w/ Silver dots
#5, Fuel Pump Relay #1, Circuit Opening Relay #1, G-W w/ Silver dots
#6, *Ground, W-B w/ Silver dots
#7, *Starter Relay #4, B-W
#8, *AC / OBA Clutch, B w/ Red dots
#9, *Starter Fuse #4, Circuit Opening Relay #3, Cold Start Injector, B
w/ Silver dots
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Circuit Relay #4, G w/ Silver dots
#12, *Starter Fuse #1, B
#13, *Backup Light Power from Engine Fuse, Y w/ Silver dots
#14, Removed from plug

Circuit Opening Relay

Located in the RH side kick panel of donor Cressida
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Fuel Pump Relay #1, B3{#5}, G-W
#2, *EFI Main Relay #4, B-R
#3, Starter Fuse #4, T5{#11}, B3{#9}, B w/ Silver dots
#4, B3{#11}, G w/ Silver dots
#5, Removed
#6, *Ground, W-B w/ Silver dots

Fuel Pump Relay

Located in the RH side kick panel of donor Cressida
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Circuit Opening Relay #1, G-W
#2, Fuel Pump Resistor #1, G-B w/ Red dots
#3, T5{#6}, G-R w/ Silver dots
#4, *Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Resistor #2, B-R