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Can I use FX Format Lenses in My SLR I own a Nikon D3000 SLR camera, with t to enhance on the zooming part

and suggest a good lens and also let me amera...

camera Nikon D3000? a AF-S DX 18-55mm VR f/3.5-5.6G Lens. I wan would like to get a new lens for me. Please know if I can use an FX format lens on my c

FX lenses will work fine and they are a wise purchase if you even remotely think you may get an FX camera some day. The 70-300 VR lens is a good choice and not terribly expensive. This has been a real staple in my "arsenal" of lenses. It is a good compliment to your 18-55. He re are some samples: http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstei Nikon just came out with a 28-300 VR FX lens and it is an excellent choice. Some days, it's the only lens you need. It's fairly new, so I don't have tons of sam ples on line, but look and see how versatile it is: http://www.flickr.com/photos /samfeinstei The "walk around" lens made for DX cameras is the well-known 18-200 VR DX: http: //www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstei FX and DX format lenses will work on any crop-sensor Nikon camera. This includes the D3000, D5000, D3100, D40, D60, D80, D90, D300, D300s, and D7000. There are probably a couple more that I missed as well. FX format lenses will work perfectly on any full-frame sensor Nikon camera. This includes really high-end cameras like the D700, D3X, etc. DX format lenses will attach to a full-frame camera, but they are not designed t o cast light on a 24x36mm sensor, so you will experience heavy light falloff aro und the edges. Yes, you can use an FX format lens on a DX format body with no problems. If you use a DX format lens on an FX format DSLR body you simply set the FX body to "crop" and the image from the DX format lens will be the same size on the FX format sensor as it was on the DX cropped sensor. If you used a DX format lens on a traditional 35mm film camera then you'd have severe vignetting since the im age circle of the DX format lens is too small to cover a 35mm film frame

Nikon has 70-300mm range which has three models to suit every budget. All are FX . The AF model won't auto focus on your camera. For auto -focus look for AF-S an d AF-I lens. You can also look at 55-300mm and 28-300mm which are DX lens. he first thing you should look at in a Nikon lens is if it says AF-S in its name if it does than the auto focus is based upon a motor inside the lens which is w hat you need since the D3000 doesn't have an auto focus motor built inside of it like the higher models like the D90, and if its a tamron or sigma lens (althoug h I strongly disagree to buy anything other than Nikon for my nikon) you should check if it says it has an inbuilt autofocus motor so that the autofocus would w ork with your D3000. If I were you I would just go with the nikon, the image qua lity is always better on nikon lenses. and I don't know if the tamron and sigma lenes are DX compatible but it usually should say in the specifications. Nikon l enses that are DX compatible have DX in their names. From what I know DX lenses are FX compatible it's just that light won't hit the

whole sensor when using a DX lens for a FX camera, since the lens is made for sm aller sensors, on a bigger sensor it would hit only part of it so you won't have all the 12megapixels. But how does a FX lens work for DX, do you get cropped si des? or just what you see from the viewfinder? DX lenses can be used on FX cameras, but they're either A) cropped to 5mp or B) have severe vignetting. In my book, that's not compatible. If you mount an FX lens to a DX camera, what you see in the viewfinder is what y ou get. The mirror is the same size as the sensor, so it only reflects what the sensor sees. All of Nikon's DX lenses say DX on them. If it doesn't have DX in gold lettering then it's FX. It has nothing to do with AF-S although all DX lenses are AF-S. A ll newer Nikon lenses, both DX or FX, can have AF-S. All of Nikon's Fmount lenses have been "FX" or full frame. Meaning they are used with 35mm cameras both digital or film. The exception are DX lenses which are m eant to be used with APS-C (cropped or smaller than 35mm) digital cameras. FX can DX can DX can have a be used be used be used smaller with FX or DX cameras, no problem. with DX cameras, no problem. with FX cameras but will have darkened corner edges because they image circle.

I'm not a total weight weenie Light weight and DSLR = oxymoron. it is still pretty darn good overall. if ALL FX lenses work with either FX, DX, or film bodies, and DX only works with DX bodies...then why buy DX lenses at all? Price and weight, mainly. DX lenses only have to create an image that covers a s maller circle (1.5x smaller in diameter), which means less glass. edit: take the 35mm offerings from nikon for example 35mm f/2 (AF): $360 and weighs 200g 35mm f/1.8 DX (AF-S): $200 and also weighs 200g (due to the AF motor, I'm assumi ng) Yeah I don't think DX is really cheaper or lighter either. It's just marketing t rying to tell you why you should buy them. I didn't buy a DSLR because I wanted a compact and light package ny 300mm lens will have a maximum equivalent focal length of 450mm (without a te leconverter) on a DX camera. As far as cropping goes, you will still get the sam e resolution image. The only time it will cut out resolution is if you use a DX lens on an FX camera. The only lenses that will fully work on a D3000 are AF-S lenses. AF lenses will meter but will not autofocus DX lenses are usually less expensive because they only have to project a smaller image for the APC format. The FF lenses have to project a bigger image and thus

are more expensive. Using a FF lens on a DX camera as a rule works really well because you are only using the center of the image which is the sharpest. So the refore, you will get good results with FF lenses. The 300mm f/4 should produce t he best images because it is a prime lens which as a rule produce sharper images than a zoom The lens works on both Nikon FX (full-frame) and DX (cropped) sensors and has an equivalent field of view of approximately 105-450mm on DX sensors, which makes the lens particularly good for reaching distant subjects. The Nikon 70-300mm f/4 .5-5.6G ID-ED VR lens features two ED (extra low dispersion) glass elements that a re used in all Nikon professional lenses, providing higher contrast, lower chrom atic aberration and higher resolution, due to less air bubbles and glass deformi ties within the glass elements. In addition, the lens sports the latest vibratio n reduction VR II technology, giving up to 4 full stops of advantage over non-VR l enses at low shutter speeds. Vibration Reduction, especially the latest VR II ge neration, makes this lens particularly useful for hand-held shooting while hikin g and traveling. Autofocus is practically silent, thanks to the Silent Wave Moto r (AF-S) within the lens. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2LfmtHCCG

The image is a little noisy it was a little windy and I rast is remarkable, both in er on the corners on a full

(I shot at ISO 800 to increase shutter speed, since didn t want to blur the grass), but sharpness and cont the center and in the corners. It gets a little soft frame body, but barely noticeable

Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2LfqpZYxw One annoyance that I noticed on this lens, was that it would constantly focus ba ck and forth a tiny bit after acquiring focus, making a ticking sound as if AF w as still looking for a better focus. This only happened when the camera was set to continuous (AF-C) mode in challenging lighting conditions and insufficient cont rast (for example, when I was shooting a bird on a tree with yellow grass in the background), but still worth noting. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2Lfr5zgcD The 70-300mm "ED-IF AF-S VR" lens vs the 55-300mm "AF-S DX VR" lens... the extra $200 for the 70-300mm lens gets you an FX (full-frame) lens instead of a DX or APS-C format. Putting an FX lens on a DX camera will give you a 1.5 focal length multiplier, since you have a smaller FoV on the small sensor, and you can use t he lens in FX/full-frame bodies. On an APS-C body, this lens is effectively a 10 5-450mm lens Nikon offers two types of autofocus digital camera bodies: those with a built-in focus drive motor and those which require a lens to have a motor.The D60 does n ot have a focus motor, it can be smaller and lighter but does require the lens t o have the focusing motor an AF-S lens. While these bodies can use a lens with no focus motor (an AF lens) you would have to manually turn the focus ring to bring t he subject in to sharp focus. Any AF-S lens will give you autofocus. The 70-300mm lens is a great choice if you need fast auto-focus (for action and / or sports). The 55-300mm lens is a good choice and more economical if auto-foc us speed is not as important (shooting landscapes, portraits, still life, etc.).

Besides the appx $200 price difference, the 55-300 lens is strictly for use with digital cameras with DX sensors only. DX cameras have a smaller size digital se nsor than an FX that uses a standard 35 mm frame (24 x 36 mm). Because the lens physically cannot 'fill up' the FX frame it is listed only as a DX (and thus the re is no 'equivalent' for FX/35mm). Bokeh: very good to excellent at f/8 and f/11, good beyond that. As with many Ni kkors I own, my 70-300mm sample tends to go "out of shape" at the minimum apertu re (there's a pronounced angle where two of the blades meet). But on all cameras you'd be beyond the point where diffraction is starting to play a role, so boke h isn't just about aperture blades at f/22. Where I tend to use the lens, the bo keh is quite nice, and especially good for a low-priced lens. lenses are lenses which have been crippled by removing their aperture rings to save cost. This is a classic example of taking away features while making custom ers think they are getting something new. G eliminates many features with older cameras. These newest AF lenses have no aperture ring. This means that they will not work on manual focus cameras since there is no way to set the aperture. You can moun t them, however every shot will be made at the smallest aperture and your meteri ng will be way off (probably about SIX stops underexposed) since the camera has no way to know what the aperture will be.


No, 70-300mm is not a prime lens. Prime lenses are the same as fixed lenses and they only offer one focal length to work with, whereas zoom lenses can zoom in a nd out I would not buy the 80-400mm, because it has a very slow AF. I believe Nikon is planning to release an AF-S version later next year, so either wait, or get the Nikon 300mm f/4.0 instead. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3nv18rd or large mammals, the Nikon 70-200mm is clearly a better choice. For small birds , the Nikon 80-400mm is better, but then the AF is very slow Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3o23wku Only heavy lenses require collars, in order to be able to support a camera body without damaging the lens mount. Why would you want to shoot the 70-300mm on a t ripod? It is a very hand-holdable lens and VR is super helpful. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3oTH0We I personally don t see a reason to mount the 70-300mm on a tripod, unless you are

shooting in the dark (where you would have problems with AF anyway). And if you need to shoot on a tripod for whatever reason, just use Mirror Lock-Up and use a remote cable release you should be in good shape! Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3p7ZsFd 70-300mm is not a macro lens. If your subject is macro, I would go with a dedica ted macro instead. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3u4GWMW

If you want a good quality macro lens, look into the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR lens Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3uHqBcA 70-300mm is a very good lens see my Nikon 70-300mm VR review. It is not going to be as sharp as your 50mm (it is hard to beat the 50mm sharpness), but it is sti ll pretty good for telephoto needs. If you want a much better telephoto lens for specific needs like birding, take a look at the Nikon 300mm f/4.0 AF-S. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3ucD22V the 80-200mm is a different class lens and will be much sharper and nicer than t he 70-300mm. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3vGKWN6 I ve been also been debating as between the Tamron 70-300 and the Nikon 70-300. It seems that the Tamron is sharp throughout the entire focal length but there are quite a few comments out there about the Nikon not being as sharp over 200mm Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3vyMiUj I have the Nikon 70-300VR for birding on long hikes and the old non-AFS 300 f/4 for use on a tripod. I agree completely that the zoom just can t beat a prime, no matter under what conditions. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3wTxH2q Nikon 18 55 Vr is a versitile lense, u can use it as wide angle @ 18 mm, its goo d for macro ( bigger insects and flowers ), @ around 35mm its nice for street ph otos and @ around 50mm its nice for portraits. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L3xuVkCF You already have a 18-200 zoom lense. Why do u want to go for a 70-300. You can always crop an image taken from 18-200 to make it even 300 or 500. All u have to do is take your snaps in RAW and later edit/ crop it. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L41YNcJr I have no idea about the sigma 50-500. But i do know a fact that such lenses whi ch have such a zide zoom range has a poor optic in comparison. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L420ctlX

All lenses which have the prefix AF-S will auto focus on the Nikon D5100. For exam ple :- Af-s 70-300 vr2 4.5-5.6 will also focus on Nikon D5100 though it is an Fx ( for full frame cameras ) lense Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L42DIPz5 Well of course a 70 -300 is the best under 1000$ lense, it will out shine the 18 -200 in af speed which is crucial for action, birding and wildlife. 70 300 also has better optics than a 18- 200 Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L42JilrV I would suggest you to take the wildlife, birding and action/sports photos with your tamron 18-200 at max zoom of 200mm or 180mm if 200mm is a bit soft. Then yo u later simply crop the images on your computer, crop as much as u wish. By doin g so you can get a equivalent zoom of 300mm, 500mm, 800mm or even a 1000mm and m ost importantly you dont spend a single penny. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L42ifCwX Now to do the above you must make sure you take your images in RAW format. Secon dly, after doing so, see how much has the quality really been impacted ( i guess it will not be much). You have a Nikon D5100 if i am not wrong, well nikon d510 0 has 16 mege pixels, now that is enough pixcels for you to crop and edit when y ou take your snaps in Raw ( experiment it in jpeg also but compare both and choo se the best ). Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L43xs2PE Coming to Tele Converters, A tele converter will give you superb zoom, a 2x for example will make a 200mm i nto a 400mm and u dont have a buy a super zoom expensive lense. But it has several cons as well as follows :Slows downthe auto focus the 18-200 af is already bit on a slower side in compar ison with the 70-300 and a tc will slow it down futher. Quick af is crucial for wildlife, action/sports and birding. Less light/ narrow apperture a tc wont allow much light in. You can no longer wo rk with a app of 4 or 3 or 4.5 and this will impact your depth of field / focus. Also when the light is lower at the time of a beautiful sun set, you will have to go for a higher iso as a compensation and hense resulting in more noise. Camera shake as the zoom is more, the chance of a camera shake is also doubled a nd your exsisting vr in the lense is not built for such a zoom range. Sharpness/optic and image quality a snap taken form a 70-300 or a 18-200 with ou t tc will be much sharper and of a better quality when compared with a shot take n from 18-200 with tc. So pls dont go for a tele converter. It would be great to use a tc on a fast lense like a nikon 70-200 2.8 vr2 or sim ilar fast lenses , but such lenses are way too expensive. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L44Rbr1K At the moment I have a D60 with the kit 18-55 VR, 35mm f1.8 and the 70-300 AF (w hich doesn t auto focus on my D60 because of it not having a motor). Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L44miFq0 you will be disappointed with the 70-300mm after your 300mm f/4. Why don t you use a faster shutter speed instead? VR definitely helps, but it requires some skill

when shooting at slow shutter speeds fore taking a picture.

you will have to let the lens stabilize be

Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L46fMA3K Unfortunately using faster shutter speeds in low light will result in unacceptab ly high ISO settings (from a noise standpoint), especially with the F Stop limit ation of the 300mm F4. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L46xbvSM Have had the 70-300 for more than a year now, I agree 100% with your comments/ob servations. At various points, I ve tried using this for bird photography : in ver y good light conditions, the pictures at even 300mm are sharp, with mostly no de tails lost. However, when lighting is less than ideal ( as is in most cases when you re birding ) Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L47VGnhQ i own this 70-300 vr, just bought it 3days ago. i have a d90 body, the purpose o f buying this this lens is of course budget friendly for a telephoto portrait le ns, can you give me some tips for doing portrait photography outdoor/indoor usin g this lens Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L48YGuU3 My own top ten tips for portrait photography! 1: For sharp pictures make sure you have a shutter speed equal to the focal leng th. If you have a full frame camera (D700 and above) then you ll have to simply eq ual that number, but with a DX camera (D3100, D5100, D90, D300 etc.) you ll have t o multiply the focal length by 1.5 due to the crop format for your shutter speed . However, as your lens has VR you can afford to shoot a couple of stops below thi s, but I reckon it s good practice. 2: For lovely bokeh widen the aperture. 3: For even lovelier bokeh ensure that your subject is standing a good distance away from background objects such as walls, trees, hedges etc. If you re standing closer to him/her than they are to the background, you ll maximise the creamy boke h behind them. 4: Focus on the eyes when using a wide aperture for shallow depth of field. The brain can tolerate almost anything blurry but the eyes. As long as the eyes look sharp, things are peachy. 5: Use natural window light indoors. Place your subject by a window and for extr a good light, get a big piece of card, a white sheet or buy a reflector to place on the other side of them away from the window, so the light coming in from out side bounces and adds a nice quantity of soft light to the other shaded side of their face. 6: Shoot outdoor portraits in the golden hour , that is within half an hour of befo re and after sunset and sunrise. This time period can vary according to how far North or South you are from the equator, natch. 7: Relax your subject. Lark about. If they insist on posing photograph them in t heir terrible, fixed grin, rigid, self concious pose and then pretend it s great, but instead of putting the camera away keep it around for when they loosen up an d let their guard drop. If you re photographing people you don t know building a rap port first is essential! 8: Make sure the setting is pretty interesting too if you re going to an environme ntal portrait. Make sure colours don t clash with what your subject s wearing, and t hat the background isn t too fussy. 9: For some reason the brain hates seeing people with straight lines interceptin g their head. If you see a fence behind someone, or a tree branch, make sure it

doesn t appear to be disappearing into their head. 10: Portraits are best when there s a bit of space left for where the subject is l ooking. For instance if they re looking left, leave a chunk of space to their left free. This especially goes for landscape portraits. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L48bjHqT

The 70-300 is quite soft at 300mm. I try not to shoot above 220mm if possible. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L49Mrn7l No worries, we ve all got to start somewhere! Yes, the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G can be used very nicely with the D5000. It will auto-focus too. Older Nikon lenses in t he D range can also be used with the D5000 as well, such as the 50mm f/1.8D, but t hey will not auto-focus on the D5000 camera. That is to say, you ll have to twiddl e the manual focus ring to get things sharp. Any Nikon lens with the G bit after t he f/ number will work fine on your camera, and have autofocus. Another good tip in discovering whether a lens is for you is to look at photos t aken by other people who have the same camera as you. Flickr is best for this. S imply search for a D5000 group and then in the Search Group Pool box enter the len s name. Here s what the 70-300mm can do with a D5000 http://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?w=1015378%40N20&m=pool&q=70-300mm Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L49zKi8G The Nikon 70-300mm VR is the latest of many 70-300mm range zooms from Nikon. It adds Vibration Reduction (VR) to eliminate the need for a tripod, AFS focusing t o allow instant manual focus override, VR makes a weird water-running sound. I can feel it through the camera body as i t runs. Nikon calls this the Nikon AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5 - 5.6G IF-ED AFS: Quiet AF and instant manual focus override. Just grab the focus ring. VR II: Vibration Reduction, new version. This means you can get sharp picture s without a tripod. Nikon claims four stops sharper. G: No aperture ring. Only works on cameras newer than about 1992. IF: Internal Focusing. Nothing moves on the outside of the lens when it focu ses. ED: Magic glass for sharper images SWM: Silent Wave Motor for fast, quiet focusing. world famous pro photographer like Steve McCurry suggests you to buy a lense, al ways rent or borrow the lense and try it on the field for a day of 2 before you actually buy. Be smart. Read more: http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-70-300mm-vr#ixzz2L43mFeh9