Riga Travel Guide

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
RIGA
December 2013 - January 2014
In Your Pocket: a cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks. The New York Times
Riga 2014 Eurozone
Riga becomes Europes Capital of Culture Latvia says goodbye to the lat
THE OFFICIAL TRAVEL GUIDE OF
N106 - 2Ls / 2.85 www.riga.inyourpocket.com
CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Foreword
Gossip and rants from the editor 6 7 8
Arriving in Riga
How to get to your hotel
The Basics
Getting to grips with Riga
Culture & Events 10

Concerts, festivals and events
Where to stay
20 Beds for backpackers and business executives 26
Latvia will officially join the Eurozone on January 1, 2014. Although Latvians have changed their currency several times over the past century, the move to the euro is still a source of anxiety for many locals. Read more about this momentous event on p.22. Photo courtesy of Latvijas Banka
Restaurants & Cafs

From pork knuckle to sushi
Directory
Shopping Sports & Leisure Health & Lifestyle 62 66 68
Nightlife 42
Bars, pubs and clubs
Sightseeing
Museums, churches and the like
52 59
List of small features

Riga 2014 begins! 14 Explore the countryside 24 A new look for In Your Pocket 33 New Years Eve 34 Food & Curio bazaar 36 Nightlife warning 42 Riga and the Christmas tree 48 Our favourites 50 Christmas in Riga 53 The Belgians are coming! 55 1960s Latvian graphic design 56 Femme fatales in Riga 58 Riga for kids 58 Christmas markets 62 What to buy in Latvia 64 Kalnciema fair 65 Hockey: Dynamo Riga 66 Bobsleighing in Sigulda 67
Getting around
Planes, trains and automobiles
Maps & Index

Riga will celebrate its new status as Culture Capital of Europe in January of 2014. Discover everything you need to know in our Culture & Events chapter beginning on p.10. Photo of the new Latvian National Library by M.Zaprauskis
Old Riga map 71 Riga city centre map 72 Venue index / Old Riga street register 74 Latvia map 75
www.riga.inyourpocket.com
FOREWORD
Momentous events are afoot in the Latvian capital. After years of preparation Riga will finally become one of two European Culture Capitals in 2014, the other one being Ume in Sweden. The festivities will kick off in mid-January with a number of special concerts, exhibitions and celebrations to mark the beginning of Riga 2014. One of the most awaited events will be the so-called Chain of Booklovers. Tens of thousands of participants will form a human chain between the old national library in the city centre and the new library, also known as the Castle of Light, on the left bank of the Daugava river. The volunteer book enthusiasts will pass hundreds of works of literature and learning from hand to hand across a distance of 3km. See our Culture & Events chapter for more Riga 2014 events. But if youre coming to Riga to take advantage of its unprecedented cultural programme youll have to bring euros with you. On January 1, 2014, Latvia will officially join the Eurozone and say goodbye to its national currency, the lat. Having suffered greatly under foreign powers for centuries, Latvians are no strangers to currency changes, but many Latvians are still sad to see a symbol of their national sovereignty go by the wayside. Read more about this historic economic endeavour on p.22. Finally, wed like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Our thoughts and prayers are with the victims of the Maxima tragedy and their families.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Publisher Riga In Your Pocket Laipu 8 - 9a, LV-1050 Riga, Latvia tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, riga@inyourpocket.lv www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1407-2335 SIA Latvijas cevei Printed by Microdot six times per year Find us on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter Editorial Editor Mrti Zaprauskis Researchers irts Upenieks & Mrti Zaprauskis Layout & Design Mrti Zaprauskis Ad design irts Upenieks Photos Mrti Zaprauskis, unless otherwise noted. Events and culture photos courtesy of various media groups and concert organisers. Cover: Mrti Zaprauskis Sales & Circulation General Manager irts Upenieks Sales & Circulation Manager irts Upenieks, tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, girts@inyourpocket.lv Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright SIA Latvijas cevei 1995 2014. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket: Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania. Tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.
Cover story
This issues wintry cover photo was taken on Cathedral Square or Doma laukums, the home of the largest church in the Baltic States, which can be seen behind the huge Christmas tree. In December and January, its also the best place in the city to soak up some holiday cheer with a mug of mulled wine or a stroll around its market stalls.
Europe In Your Pocket

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Its now nearly 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent, and we will be expanding even further in 2014 with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg in South Africa: our first guide outside Europe. Whats more, early in 2014 our already terrific guides will be getting a fresh new look, designed to offer our readers a better experience. The roll-out of this new look begins in February. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook ( faceb ook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
FYR Macedonia
Riga In Your Pocket
ARRIVING IN RIGA
Arriving in Riga is fairly simple these days. The bus and train stations are located right on the edge of Old Riga and the airport is only a short cab or bus ride away. Money can be changed wherever you land, but rates at banks and exchange booths will no doubt be better in Old Riga and the city centre.
Tourist information
Live Riga Tourist Information Centres I-2,
Rtslaukums 6, tel. (+371) 67 03 79 00, www. liveriga.com. The Live Riga information centre offers a wide range of information in several languages. The friendly staff can assist with hotel bookings, tours and other useful services. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Also at H-2, Kau 16, tel. (+371) 67 22 74 44; J-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station), (+371) 67 22 05 55. A
By bus
The first thing youll notice upon arrival at the bus terminal or autoosta (open 05:00 - 24:00) are the impressive hangars of the Central Market to your right just above the murky waters of the Riga canal. Inside, LuxExpress and Ecolines offices are located to your left as well as an ATM, baggage room (0.40 - 1Ls / 0.57 - 1.42 for the first hour, 0.20Ls / 0.28 each additional hour) and toilets for 0.20Ls / 0.28 (ask for paper). To your right is the waiting room and internet area. A bar/cafeteria, a baby-changing station, a shower and even a small hostel are available upstairs. At the far end of the hall is a bus information centre (open 08:00 - 21:00), currency exchange (open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00) and pharmacy (open 07:00 - 20:00) or aptieka in Latvian. Outside along the canal is an e-talons office (open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00; closed Sun) as well as a ticket machine where you can buy public transport tickets. Getting to town: trams N7 or 9 stop in front of the bus station; ride it one stop into the centre (buy a 0.70Ls / 1 ticket from the driver). To get there on foot, turn left, walk through the underpass and follow the signs Vecrga-Vau iela into Old Riga. The cabs outside are notoriously dodgy, so either order a taxi by phone (see Getting around) or use public transport.Q
By car
Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land borders with Estonia and Lithuania. Just drive across the border. The Russian and Belarusian borders still require time and patience. Happy trails! Q
By ferry
The ferry terminal and yacht harbour lie less than 1km north of Old Riga. A bank machine and caf (09:00 - 18:30) are available as well as a Tallink ticket office and a souvenir/ alcohol shop. Getting to town: go right across the parking lot in the direction of the ugly grey skyscraper. Old Riga is just beyond it. Taxis are also available. Q
By train
The train station (centrl stacija) underwent massive renovations and has been modernised with a spacious central hall and many shopping and eating options. International trains arrive at platform 2. Follow signs down to the Central Hall (Centrl zle), under which are renovated pay toilets (0.15Ls / 0.21 - ask for paper from the surly cashier) and a baggage room (0.50 / 0.71 - 1.50Ls / 2.13/day), open 04:30 24:00. Exchange money at the currency exchanges (valtas maias) in tunnels A and B, at the Parex bank to the right of the Central Hall when coming from the platforms, or at the Swedbank to the left. There are several bank machines in the terminal. Pay-as-you-go internet points/phones can be found by the toilets next to tunnel A and by the Narvesen in front of tunnel C. The train information office is open 08:00 - 20:00. Getting to town: you are right beside Old Riga. Turn left when leaving the station and head toward the spire of St. Peters Church, then walk through the underpass and follow the signs 13. janvra iela and turn right onto Aspazijas bulvris. Q
By plane
The airport (lidosta) is some 10km southwest of the Riga city centre. Once youve got your bags and youve cleared customs you can reserve a hotel room, rent a car or visit the airport welcome centre in the arrivals hall for information. A 24-hour baggage room (1Ls/ 1.42/half day) is available as well as ATMs and a post office (open 08:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00). If youve departed from a non-Schengen country such as Ireland, the UK, the US or Uzbekistan, you will arrive in a different terminal at the north end of the airport building. Car rental and currency exchange are available here, but you might want to leave the terminal, make a right and then enter the Schengen arrival hall because it offers more services. Getting to town: A queue of eager taxis will be waiting Riflemen Monument MZ for you outside the arrivals hall. A typical ride to Old Riga or the city centre should cost no more than 10Ls / 14. The Airport Express shuttle stops at 10 different locations throughout the city, including Old Riga, the bus station, the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and the Albert Hotel, for 3.51Ls / 5 every 30 minutes between 04:25 - 00:35. Bus N22 (get off at Grcinieku iela for Old Riga or at Stockmann for the city centre) costs 0.70Ls / 1 (if you buy a ticket from the driver; 0.50Ls / 0.71 if you buy a ticket ahead of time) and departs for the city centre roughly every 10 - 20 minutes. Exit the airport arrivals hall and walk across the parking lot to find the bus stop and ticket machine. For more information visit www.riga-airport.com. Q
Riga Card
Tourists looking for a good deal can purchase the Riga Card, which provides free use of public transport, free admission or discounts at museums, specials on car rental, discounts at restaurants, souvenir shops and much more. The Riga Card also comes with a free copy of Riga In Your Pocket and is available at major hotels, tourist info centres, travel agencies and the airport. Prices: 12Ls (17)/24hrs, 14Ls (20)/48hrs, 18Ls (26)/72hrs. Children under 16 half price. RC establishments in this guide are given the following symbol: RC
Riga Card Office Tel./fax (+371) 67 21 72 17, info@rigacard.lv, www.rigacard.lv. Q www.riga.inyourpocket.com
BASICS
Alcohol
For a while Latvia had the dubious honour of holding the record for the worlds drunkest person. In the summer of 2012, a vagrant was found unconscious by police and rushed to hospital where his blood test revealed an astounding 8.89 parts per mille of alcohol. Although we dont suggest you attempt to break any records, we do hope you enjoy a local drink in moderation while in Riga. Uavas, Lplesis, Trvetes, Bauskas and Valmiermuias are among the nations best beers and the infamous Riga Black Balsam is a potent liquor that Latvians enjoy inflicting on tourists. Bars are open at all hours, but alcoholic beverages are only sold in shops from 08:00 - 22:00.
Latvia facts & Figures

Population: 2,041,763 in 2012 Total territory: 64,589km2 Longest rivers: Gauja (452km), Daugava (352km in Latvia) Highest point: Gaizikalns (311.6m) Largest lake: Lubns (80.7km2) Length of Latvian coastline: 494km For more fun facts and statistics visit www.latvia.lv
Money
Until January 1, the national currency is still the lat (Ls). There are 100 santmi to the lat, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 santmi and 1 and 2 lat coins. Bank notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 lats. The lat is the fourth most valuable currency in the world and as we go to press, one euro sells for 0.70Ls and one US dollar for 0.52Ls. Although Latvia was originally scheduled to adopt the Euro in 2008, the global credit crunch derailed the process. However, Latvia will finally join the Eurozone on January 1, 2014, so youll now see all prices at shops and restaurants in both lats and euro. There are currency exchange booths everywhere accepting a wide range of foreign bank notes. Most hotels, restaurants and shops take credit and bank cards and weve marked the establishments that accept them. There are numerous ATMs around town as well.
Communism
Although Latvia was once an involuntary Soviet republic, visitors should not come to Riga with high hopes of seeing grand statues of Lenin and other objects from that bygone era. Most of these monuments, which are viewed as symbols of oppression by Latvians, have been removed including the Lenin statue that once faced east on Brvbas bulvris. It was levelled in August 1991. A red granite monument, once dedicated to the Latvian riflemen who protected Lenin after the Revolution of 1917, still exists on Strlnieku laukums, but now honours all of the riflemen - Whites and Reds. Another monument, dedicated to the Soviet liberation of Riga, is located on the other side of the Daugava and is still used as a rallying point for red flag wavers. Many Russian-speakers also leave flowers at the foot of the monument on their wedding day. Hammers and sickles can also be seen on the wrought iron fence on A-B dambis near the Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel.
National holidays
Nearly 800 years of foreign occupation by Germans, Poles, Swedes and Russians havent given Latvians much cause for celebration. There are, however, several national days of remembrance that mark days of mass deportations and other tragedies. Pagan Midsummer celebrations are the nations most popular holidays when locals head out to the countryside for bonfires, beer and fertility rites. January 1 New Years Day (Jaungads) April 18, 2014 Good Friday (Liel piektdiena) April 20, 2014 Easter Sunday (Lieldienas) April 21, 2014 Easter Monday (Otrs Lieldienas) May 1 Labour Day (Strdnieku diena) May 4 Independence day in 1990 June 23 - 24 Midsummer celebrations (Lgo & Ji) November 18 Independence day in 1918 Dec 24 - 26 Christmas (Ziemassvtki) Dec 31 New Years Eve (Vecgada vakars)
Health & Safety

Although the World Health Organisation once listed Latvia and Estonia as hot zones for drug-resistant strains of tuberculosis, the situation has greatly improved over the past 10 years. Unfortunately, cases of tick-borne encephalitis are still common in the countryside. We advise vaccination against this disease if you plan on spending much time in Latvias forests. Another caution: although tap water can be used for brushing your teeth, bottled water is recommended for everyday consumption. Sadly, those who enjoy a good pint and who frequent pubs and clubs should always be on the lookout for any suspicious characters, especially young girls on Lvu laukums who are eager to invite you to a local bar for a drink. Use your head and consider why a beautiful 18-yearold girl seems so interested in you. If youre name happens to be Brad Pitt, you get a pass, but all others should think twice. See Scams.
Post
Latvian Postal Service (Latvijas Pasts) H-3, Brvbas bulv. 32, tel. (+371) 67 50 28 15, www.pasts.lv. Send postcards, letters and packages, buy stamps and public transport tickets or do what most locals do here (hence the queues) and pay your utility bills. Take a number and have a seat. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 07 39 00. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; C-4, Marijas 20, tel. (+371) 67 28 54 46. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun; Elizabetes 41/43, tel. (+371) 67 33 16 09. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Market values
McDonalds Big Mac 1.69Ls $3.25 2.41 Loaf of white bread 0.35Ls $0.67 0.50 Snickers bar 0.30Ls $0.58 0.43 0.7L of vodka 5.00Ls $9.62 7.14 0.5L bottle of local beer 0.55Ls $1.06 0.79 20 Marlboros 2.20Ls $4.23 3.16 Public transport ticket 0.50Ls $0.96 0.71 Cinema ticket 3.50Ls $6.73 5.00 1l of petrol 0.91Ls $1.74 1.30 Exchange rates (as of 21.11.2013) US$1 - 0.52Ls 1 - 0.70Ls 1 - 0.83Ls 100 - 0.52Ls
Reserve a hotel room at www.riga.inyourpocket.com

Riga In Your Pocket
BASICS BASICS
Riga Tourist Information Centre

Rtslaukums 6 Ph: +371 6703 7900 Kau iela 16 Ph: +371 6722 7444 Prgas iela 1 (Riga International Coach Terminal) Ph: +371 6722 0555 Working hours 10.0018.00 E-mail: info@rigatic.lv www.LiveRiga.com
Roads
Latvia has some of the worlds worst drivers. Its not that they cant steer or press the break pedal, although for some reason Latvians cant master the art of parallel parking, its more likely a reckless streak that allows grown men and women to act like children behind the wheel. Passing on blind curves is shockingly common, red lights are ignored by most BMWs and pedestrians on crosswalks tend to become targets for wannabe F1 drivers in tricked out Mercedes jeeps. If, like many locals, you enjoy operating an au tomobile while intoxicated, you should bear in mind that all perpetrators, including foreigners, face a mandatory ten-day jail sentence and a 500Ls (714) fine. The speed limit is 50km/h in towns, 90km/h on the open road and it is strictly enforced. Speed traps are prevalent and bribes are not recommended. Parking meters are all over Riga. Traffic police will clamp your car and demand a 5Ls (7) fine on the spot for running out of time, or will fine you 10Ls (14) for being parked illegally. Old Riga is now accessible to nearly all motor vehicles, but the authorities have made it impossible to drive from one end to the other having divided the town into four different sections. Many streets have been changed to one-way streets and certain areas, such as Doma and Lvu squares, have become pedestrian and bicycles zones. Naturally, the city has lost loads of revenue by opening up the old city, but now charges equally exorbitant parking fees that can only be paid with an SMS text message sent from a Latvian mobile phone number. In other words, most tourists are prohibited from parking their rented or borrowed cars in Old Riga.
Scams
While most bars and restaurants are happy to welcome tourists into their establishments, there are some rotten apples that will do anything to take your money. Strip clubs, nightclubs and late night bars seem to be the biggest culprits often taking advantage of already inebriated patrons. Be wary of young attractive girls on Lvu Square asking you to join them for a drink in a nearby bar. Youll be shocked to discover later that the barely palatable bottle of wine you bought them costs 500Ls (714) or more. If you refuse the bouncers will pummel you until you give them your PIN code. Other scams include taking your credit card information and buying stuff online or charging your card for much more than you purchased. Avoid seedy bars and try to always pay in cash at nightclubs, even if they seem reputable.
Smoking
Latvians love to smoke and until recently you could see them lighting up almost anywhere, from barstools in local pubs to hospital beds. But all that has changed. As of July 1, 2006, smoking is banned in most public places including restaurants, clubs and government buildings. The few establishments which have built completely separate smoking sections with proper ventilation systems have been assigned a smoking symbol. Ironically, the government has largely ignored the root causes of smoking, but new taxes on cigarettes has brought the price of a pack of Marlboros up to a little over 3.
Tipping
A 10% tip is expected from foreigners at most restaurants, which isnt a bad deal unless youve been ignored by an insolent teenage waiter at lunch, which, unfortunately, does still occur.
10
CULTURE & EVENTS

Perhaps the best aspect of Rigas cultural life is that world-class performances are very affordable. Locals hold the opera and theatre in the highest esteem and make it a point to attend often.
Music & Events

Dec Date Time Event Venue 1 - 31 10:00 Christmas markets on Doma laukums, Lvu laukums and the 20:00 Esplande 7 11:00 International Women's Club of RTH Riga Charity Christmas Bazaar 16:00 and auction. Free admission 7 19:00 Fight Arena. Professional MMA and AR kickboxing. 10 - 15Ls / 14 - 21 7 19:30 Roberto Kel Torres. Latin pop SF and salsa music concert. 7 20Ls / 10 - 28 9 20:00 Richard Claydermann (France). RCC The French pianist returns to Riga. 15 - 50Ls / 21 - 71 10 19:30 Michael Taylor presents An RCC Evening of Burlesque. The London burlesque show performs in Riga 13 19:00 Baroque Christmas with the RCC Teatro Verdi Di Trieste chamber orchestra. 9 - 20Ls / 13 - 28 13 20:00 Black Friday 2013 metal night MP featuring Darrva, Dehead, Obscurus Orbis, Eschatos and Urskumug. 2Ls / 3 13 22:00 DJ Antoine Clamaran (France) CC and DJ Ian Osborn (France). 10Ls / 14 13 22:00 UP (LV). Electro / dream pop DP concert 14 22:00 Zig Zag. Legendary 1980s NK Latvian rock band present their new album. 5Ls / 7 15 12:00 Winter Solstice Celebrations. EM The Dragging of the Yule Log 16:00 15 14:00 Extreme Circus. Acrobats, AR motorcycles, elephants, lions, tigers and other circus performers. 15 - 79Ls / 21 - 112
Cinemas
lv. Forum Cinemas is the second largest cinema complex in Northern Europe. 14 viewing halls with 3200 seats are available to film-goers not to mention the largest movie screen in the Baltic-Scandinavian region. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7) A Kinogalerija C-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. (+371) 67 28 54 11, www.kinogalerija.lv. Kinogalerija is mostly dedicated to films of an arty or European variety. Q (5) Splendid Palace C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 18 11 44, www.splendidpalace.lv. Rigas first cinema offers an ornate old world interior that makes for an interesting movie experience and its smaller new hall is also state of the art. It shows films from around the globe as well as box office hits. Q (3 - 5)
Forum Cinemas I-3, 13. janvra 8, www.forumcinemas.
Clubs & Other venues

38 85, www.krekli.lv. This club is home to 100% Latvian acts like Ainars Mielavs, Prkons and Autobuss debess. Depo I-2, Vau 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14, www. klubsdepo.lv. Underground club thats a venue for indie, industrial and experimental groups as wells as alternative, metal, punk, ska and garage bands. KKC (Kaepes Kultras centrs) B-4, Skolas 15, tel. (+371) 29 40 44 05. This funky, self-proclaimed culture centre is a local hotspot for hipsters who appreciate having drinks, listening to music and doing other arty things in a dilapidated wooden building. Also hosts concerts and art exhibitions QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00.
etri Balti Krekli I-3, Vecpilstas 12, tel. (+371) 67 21
440, tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs. lv. This outdoor museum hosts a number of ethnographic events, concerts and fairs throughout the year. Take bus N1 from the corner of Merea and Trbatas to the Brvdabas muzejs stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. LK Meln piektdiena (Black Friday) Brvbas 193c, tel. (+371) 29 87 94 75, www.melnapiektdiena.lv. The only club in Riga dedicated to heavy metal music is located within the brick walls of an old factory next to the VEF Bridge. Live acts have included such heavyweights as Napalm Death. Take tram N6 from Barona to the VEF stop. Nabaklab H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12, www.nabaklab.lv. This is a student favourite that regularly hosts ska, rock and punk music concerts. Riga Circus (Rgas cirks) C-4, Merea 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 34 79, www.cirks.lv. Built in 1888, the Riga Circus is one of the oldest institutions of its kind in Europe and is the only permanent circus in the Baltics. Both young and old are entertained here year round with exciting shows that include world-class performers from clowns, jugglers and magicians to illusionists, acrobats and animal acts. See its website for upcoming events. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00. Sapu Fabrika D-5, Lpla 101, tel. (+371) 67 28 12 22, www.sapnufabrika.lv. Industrial-style venue for anything from rock to rap concerts. Headliners have included The White Stripes, Morrissey and Air. University of Latvia H-3, Raia bulvris 19, tel. (+371) 67 03 44 44, www.lu.lv. Latvias largest university occasionally hosts conferences, events and concerts in its Air main hall.
Latvian Ethnographic Museum (Latvijas etnogrfiskais brvdabas muzejs) Brvbas gatve
1980s German synthpop group Alphaville will perform Forever Young and other hits at the AvtoRadio Disco Party on December 25. Photo courtesy of www.makroconcert.com
Riga In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS
11
Music & Events

15 19:00 Extreme Circus. Acrobats, motorcycles, elephants, lions, tigers and other circus performers. 15 - 79Ls / 21 - 112 21:00 Jarboe (USA) with surpporting act P .Emerson Williams (USA). 7 10Ls / 10 - 14 11:00 Yarmarka Annual Student Art Fair at the Latvian Academy of 20:00 Art. Buy art by up-and-coming students. Closed December 24 - 26 19:00 Robertino Loreti (Italy). The Italian signer performs his greatest hits. 10 - 27Ls / 14 - 38 19:30 Mother Africa - Circus of Joy Tour. Acrobats, jugglers, singers and dancers from Africa's best troupes. 10 15Ls / 14 - 21 15:00 The Igor Bobrin Ice Theatre (Russia) performs The Nutcracker on ice. 6 - 50Ls / 9 - 71 12:00 Grand Christmas Ball at the Riga Circus. Presented in Latvian and Russian, but most performances don't require language. 1 - 15Ls / 1.42 - 21 AR
Music & Events

21 - 15:00 Grand Christmas Ball at the Riga 26, Circus. 1 - 15Ls / 1.42 - 21 28 30 21 20:00 The End of the World Part II featuring Dehydrated, Anal Punishment and Bardak. 3Ls / 4 26 16:00 Winter Ball at the Ethnographic Museum 20:00 26 18:00 Grand Christmas Ball at the Riga Circus. 1 - 15Ls / 1.42 - 21 25 19:30 Avto Radio 1980s Disco Party with Alphaville, Secret Service and F .R.David. 11 - 20Ls / 15 - 28 26 19:30 The Original Cuban Circus. Clowns, acrobats, fire-eaters, sword-swallowers, contortionists and many more performances accompanied by a live orchestra. 12 - 30Ls / 17 - 43 28 19:00 The Harlem Gospel Choir (USA). 12 - 25Ls / 17 - 36 30 20:00 Rhapsody in Rock featuring pianist Robert Wells, American singer La Gaylia and the Kaunas Symphony Orchestra. Listen to classic Queen, ABBA and AD/DC songs among others. 15 - 60Ls / 21 - 85 CIR
17 18 30
NK LAA
MP
EM CIR AR
19
RCC
19
AR
AR
21
AR
RCC AR
21 24, 26, 28 30
CIR
12
CULTURE & EVENTS

Music & Events (continued)
31 23:00 A free New Year's party at the 11.novembra krastmala and fireworks at midnight Christmas markets on Doma laukums, Lvu laukums and the Esplande Grand Christmas Ball at the Riga Circus. 1 - 15Ls / 1.42 - 21 Grand Christmas Ball at the Riga Circus. 1 - 15Ls / 1.42 - 21 UniCon League of Legends Tournament. Latvia's first virtual cybersports festival with theme booths and cosplay. 3 - 7Ls / 4 - 10 Electrocutango (Norway). Electronic tango music concert. 15Ls / 21 Dmitri Hvorostovsky (Russia). The famous baritone live in Riga. 22 - 70Ls / 31 - 100 Hexis (Denmark) and Exhaustion (UK). Black metal concert Simple Minds. The legendary Scottish band will perform in Riga for the first time. 33 - 60Ls / 47 - 85 11
Opera & Ballet

Dec Tickets cost 3 - 22Ls (4 - 30) Date Time Event Venue 7 19:00 Premiere. The Love for Three OP Oranges, opera, Prokofiev 8 12:00 The Sound of Music, children's OPN concert 8 19:00 The Love for Three Oranges, OP opera, Prokofiev 11 19:00 Tosca, opera, Puccini OP 12 19:00 The Barber of Seville, opera, OP Rossini 14 19:00 Nabucco, opera, Verdi OP 15 12:00 The Little Sweep, children's OP opera in Latvian, Britten 17 19:00 The Marinksy Theatre of OP St.Petersburg performs Le Parc, music by Mozart 18 19:00 The Marinksy Theatre of OP St.Petersburg performs Le Parc, music by Mozart 19 19:00 Lucia di Lammermoor, opera, OP Donizetti 20 19:00 The Love for Three Oranges, OP opera, Prokofiev 21 19:00 Don Giovanni, opera, Mozart OP 22 12:00 The Little Sweep, children's OP opera in Latvian, Britten 22 18:00 The Little Sweep, children's OP opera in Latvian, Britten 28 12:00 Operetta Carousel with OP selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss 28 19:00 Operetta Carousel with OP selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss 29 12:00 Operetta Carousel with OP selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss 29 19:00 Operetta Carousel with OP selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss Jan 2 19:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, children's rock ballet, Prauli 3 19:00 Operetta Carousel with selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss 4 12:00 The Little Sweep, children's opera in Latvian, Britten 4 18:00 The Little Sweep, children's opera in Latvian, Britten 5 12:00 Operetta Carousel with selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss 5 19:00 Operetta Carousel with selections from Jacques Offenbach, Franz Lehr, Carl Millcker and Johann Strauss 12 12:00 The Sound of Music, children's concert OP OP
Jan 1 - 12 10:00 20:00 3 - 5, 15:00 11 12 4 - 5, 12:00 11 12 4 12:30
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Michael Taylor presents An Evening of Burlesque. The London show will perform at the Riga Congress Centre on December 10. Photo courtesy of www.livefest.lv
Venues
11 - 11.novembra krastmala AEH - Arsenls Exhibition Hall AR - Arena Riga CIR - Riga Circus DP - Depo EM - Ethnographic Museum GG - Great Guild LAA - Latv. Academy of Art, F-2, Kalpaka bulvris 13 LNL - Latvian National Library, C-4, Barona 14, lnb.lv MNH - Museum of Natural History MP - Meln piektdiena OP - Opera OPN - Opera New Hall PR - Palladium Riga RC - Riga Cathedral RCC - Riga Congress Centre RTH - Riga Town Hall SG - Small Guild SGC - St. Gertrudes Church SI - Town of Sigulda SJC - St. Johns Church SK - Speri Concert Hall SP - Splendid Palace
OP OP OP
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Riga In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS
13
Opera & Ballet

17 18 18 19 19 21 22 19:00 The special Riga 2014 premiere OP of Rienzi. Rise and Fall, opera, Wagner 12:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, OP Tchaikovsky 18:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, OP Tchaikovsky 15:00 The Sound of Music, children's OPN concert 19:00 Rienzi. Rise and Fall, opera, OP Wagner 19:00 Rienzi. Rise and Fall, opera, OP Wagner 19:00 Carmen. Five Tangos. Ballet. OP Prosper Mrimes novel with contemporary choreography. Suite by Georges Bizet and Rodion Shchedrin, music by Astor Piazzolla 19:00 The Love for Three Oranges, OP opera, Prokofiev 19:00 La Bayadre, ballet, Minkus OP 19:00 Othello, ballet, music by OP J.S.Bach, Iannis Xenakis and Avet Terterian 15:00 La Traviata, opera, Verdi OP 19:00 Swan Lake. The classic ballet by OP Tchaikovsky 19:00 The Barber of Seville, opera, OP Rossini 19:00 Don Quixote, ballet, Minkus OP
Tickets
bulv. 2 (National Theatre), tel. (+371) 90 00 20 00, www.bilesuparadize.lv. Tickets to mostly Latvian events such as concerts, festivals and theatre productions. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at the box offices of the Opera (H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3), Daile Theatre (B-4, Brvbas 75) and Puppet Theatre (C-4, Barona 16/18). A Ticketpro C-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga), tel. (+371) 67 30 70 00, www.ticketpro.lv. Tickets to concerts and events in Riga and Latvia. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A Ticket Service (Bieu serviss) I-3, 13. janvra 8 (Stockmann - top floor), www.bilesuserviss.lv. You can buy tickets to major concerts by international stars online or at one of its many outlets around Riga. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Statoil petrol stations. A
Ticket Paradise (Bieu paradze) G-1, Kronvalda
Cinema premieres
December January 6 Delivery Man 3 Only Lovers Left Alive 6 Filth 10 Tarzan 3D 13 The Hobbit: The 17 Jack Ryan: Shadow Desolation of Smaug Recruit 20 Snowpiercer 24 I, Frankenstein 20 Walking with 31 Nebraska Dinosaurs 3D 25 The Secret Life of Walter Mitty 25 47 Ronin 27 Frozen The following dates indicate premieres at Forum Cinemas: www.forumcinemas.lv. Schedule subject to change
23 24 25 26 29 30 31
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CULTURE & EVENTS

Riga 2014 begins!
In 2014, Riga, together with Ume in Sweden, will have the long-awaited honour of being European Capital of Culture for the entire year and the city has been gearing up for this exalted status since it won its bid in September of 2009. Athens became the first such culture capital in 1985 and since then cities across Europe have been competing with one another to hold the prestigious title. Riga will host over 200 special events throughout the year from unprecedented exhibitions and incredible festivals to unique concerts by local and international musicians. This wonderful programme of events has been named Force Majeure to emphasise the positive effects of culture, not to mention its ability to enact swift changes both locally and globally. Major events will include one of the largest Summer Solstice celebrations in Europe in June and the World Choir Games in July that will include 20,000 participants from around the world. But in January, Rigas residents and visitors can take part in the opening ceremonies. The premiere of Wagners opera Rienzi will be performed on January 17 in honour of the influential composer who lived and worked in Riga. On the same day, a never before seen art exhibition entitled 1914 will be unveiled. Dedicated to World War I a century after it began, the exhibition will illustrate how this horrible conflict shaped Europe through visual arts from 11 different nations on the continent. Crowds will also gather at the AB quay next to the Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel on January 18 at 19:00 to witness the World Championship of Fire Sculptures. But the event that most locals are looking forward to is the Chain of Booklovers earlier in the day. In 1989, Latvians, Lithuanians and Estonians demonstrated their desire for freedom by joining hands to create the worlds largest human chain, but in January people will create a human chain between the old national library on Barona iela and the new one on the other side of the river to celebrate its opening by passing books from hand to hand all the way to the new location. For more information about Riga 2014 visit www.riga2014.org. Photo by Kaspars Garda courtesy of Riga 2014
Riga 2014 events

Jan Date Time Event 6 - 31 Nature. Urban. Future. The town of Sigulda will illuminate its architecture and outdoor art in unusual ways during the month of January 15 Amber Through the Times. An exhibition demonstrating the significance of amber in the history and culture of the Baltics 17 Riga 2014 Opening Celebrations 19 17 19:00 The premiere of Wagner's opera Rienzi performed by the Latvian National Opera 17 The opening of 1914, an exhibition dedicated to WWI 100 years after it began. See how this horrible conflict shaped Europe through visual arts from 11 different nations on the continent 18 Chain of Booklovers. Thousands of people will form a human chain to transport books from the Latvian National Library to its new home on the left bank of the River Daugava. Sign up to participate at riga2014.org 18 19:00 World Championship of Fire Sculptures. See the planet's best flammable sculptures accompanied by music between the AB quay and Kuu iela next to the Radisson Blu Hotel Daugava 18 The opening of Esplanade 2014, the outdoor information and culture centre for Riga 2014. The pavilion will be open until October 5 30.04 21 24.06 01.07 Future Riga 2014 events The opening of the KGB building Summer Solstice events throughout Riga and Latvia The Book 1514 - 2014. The new National Library will host an exhibition of rare books to illustrate the 500-year development of the book Born in Riga. Latvia's best singers, musicians and conductors will perform throughout the year World Choir Games. 20,000 singers from 90 countries will perform and compete in Riga Force Majeure. The premiere of a new documentary about Riga neighbourhoods Survival Kit. A contemporary art festival in Riga Staro Rga (Riga Shines) light festival More information at riga2014.org Venue SI
MNH
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Riga In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS

Concert halls
Arena Riga A-4, Skanstes 21, tel. (+371) 67 38 82 00, www.arenariga.com. A venue for both sporting events like the Continental Hockey League and large concerts. Performers have included Placebo, Muse and the Sex Pistols. Great Guild (Liel ilde) H-2, Amatu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 48 50, www.lnso.lv. Home of the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra.
www.gertrude.lv. This beautiful neo-Gothic church in the city centre occasionally also hosts concerts. Palladium Rga C-4/5, Marijas 21 (entrance from Prses), tel. (+371) 67 28 45 16, www.palladium.lv. A former cinema has been converted into a concert hall by the same people who organise the annual Positivus Festival. Riga Cathedral (Doma baznca) H-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. The destination for world-class organ concerts. Riga Congress Centre (Rgas Kongresu nams) F-2, Valdemra 5, tel. (+371) 67 04 36 78, www.kongresunams.riga.lv. A large venue for concerts. Small Guild (Maz ilde) H-2, Amatu 3/5, tel. (+371) 67 22 37 72, www.gilde.lv/maza. Popular venue for small concerts and events. Speri D/E-4, Maskavas 4, korp. 2/3, tel. (+371) 67 21 50 18, www.sinfoniettariga.lv. The national chamber orchestra Sinfonietta Riga performs at this chic renovated warehouse behind the Central Market. St. Johns Church (Ja baznca) I-2, Skru 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 40 28, www.janabaznica.lv. This functioning 13th-century church also hosts concerts now and again.
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Old St. Gertrudes Church (Vec Svts ertrdes baznca) B-4, ertrdes 8, tel. (+371) 67 27 57 07,
Galleries
Agija Sna I-2, Kalju 9/11, tel. (+371) 67 08 75 43, www.galerijaasuna.lv. Named after its owner, a former professional ballet dancer, this is one of Rigas oldest and most respected art galleries. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Arsenls Museum of Art H-1, Tora 1, tel. (+371) 67 35 75 27, www.lnmm.lv. Under the umbrella of the Latvian National Museum of Art, this exhibition hall specialises in local and international contemporary art projects and events. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1 - 2.50Ls / 1.42 - 3.57.
a beautifully restored 17th-century warehouse, this exhibition house currently offers two exhibitions: 100 Things You Didnt Know About Riga and The Story of Rigas Christmas T ree (from December 6). QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Putti I-2, Mrstau 16, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 29, www. putti.lv. An art gallery that specialises in jewellery and fashion. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Riga Art Space I-2, Kungu 3, tel. (+371) 67 18 13 30, www.artspace.riga.lv. A multifunctional space for contemporary art exhibitions.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2Ls / 2.85.
Reveal Riga H-2, Aldaru 5, www.revealriga.lv. Located in
NEW
Opera & Theatres

Daile Theatre (Dailes tetris) B-4, Brvbas 75, tel. (+371) 67 29 44 44, www.dailesteatris.lv. Classic theatre like Faust in Latvian.
H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3, tel. (+371) 67 07 37 77, www. opera.lv. A magnificent venue for opera, ballet and international performing artists.
Latvian National Opera (Latvijas Nacionl Opera)
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CULTURE & EVENTS

Classical music
Dec Date Time Event 3 19:00 Pearls of Russian Chamber Music. The 200th Anniversary of Dargomyzhsky's Birth! 4 - 25Ls / 6 - 36 4 19:00 With the Silent Light of Stars. Music inspired by the birth of Christ. Programme: G.F .Hndel, A.Vivaldi, and more. 5 -10Ls / 7 - 15 5 19:00 European Christmas. Aurlija imkus (piano). Programme: J.S. Bach, Beethoven, Liszt, Franz Schubert. 5 - 12Ls / 7 - 17 6 19:00 European Christmas. New York Voices (USA) and the Latvian Radio Big Band. Christmas jazz music. 10 - 20Ls / 14 - 28 6 19:00 Sacred music concert. Kristne Adamaite (organ), Laima Ledia (soprano) and the Dzintars Women's Choir. Programme: J.S.Bach, J.Brahms, G.Verdi, J.Vtols. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 6 19:00 The RTU Men's Choir Gaudeamus performs Vivaldi's Gloria. 3 - 7Ls / 4 - 10 6 19:00 Wagners Heroes. The Latvian National Symphony Orchestra featuring Arigo trls (viola) and Ints Dlderis (clarinet). Programme: R.Wagner's Overture to Tannhuser; R.Wagner's Parsifal Suite 7 19:00 European Christmas. Mozart Piano Concerto. Dina Ketlere (piano) and Sinfonietta Rga. Programme: W.A. Mozart's Overture to the opera Marriage of Figaro; Symphony in D major, (Prague). 5 - 20Ls / 7 - 28 8 19:00 Burkard Waldis - Psalms. Ieva Nmane, Guntars Prnis and Schola Cantorum Riga. 5Ls / 7 9 19:00 European Christmas. Magnificat. The Latvian Radio Choir and the Tallinn Chamber Orchestra. Programme: Arvo Prt and Toivo Tulev. 7Ls / 10 9 19:00 Pinchas Zukerman (violin) and Camerata Salzburg (Austria). 7 100Ls / 10 - 142 11 18:00 Children's concert with the LNSO 12 16:00 Children's concert with the LNSO 12 19:00 Chamber Music Concert Masters. The Latvian National Symphony Orchestra. Programme: E.Vecumniece, A.Altmanis, Franz Berwald 13 19:00 European Christmas. Vestards imkus and the iurlionis String Quartet. Programme: Mikalojus Konstantinas, Faustas Latenas, Teisutis Makainas, Vestards imkus, Robert Schumann's Piano Quintet in E flat major op. 44. 7 - 30Ls / 10 - 43 Venue GG
Classical music
13 13 14 14 14 19:00 Night Prayer with the Latvian Radio Choir and the Primus bell ensemble. 4 - 25Ls / 6 - 36 19:00 Sacred music concert. Iveta Pele (organ) and the Vivace girls' choir. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 11:00 Children's concert with the LNSO 14:00 Children's concert with the LNSO 16:00 St.Lucias Day concert. Sankta Eugenia Youth Choir (Sweden), Inese Galante (soprano), Sergejs Jgers (countertenor) and Aivars Kaljs (organ). 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 19:00 Litany. Sacred music concert. Lga Ivne (organ) and Schola Cantorum Riga. Programme: D.Buxtehude, G.Bhm, R.Dubra. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 19:00 European Christmas. Advent's Music for Voice, Saxophone and Organ. Programme: R. Dubra, T. eni, R.Pauls (new work), A.Selickis, J.Vtols. 7Ls / 10 19:00 Mozart La Fantaisie. The LNSO. Programme: A. Schnittke, R.Vaughan-Williams, W.A.Mozart 19:00 O Come, Our Saviour. Ilze Reine (organ), Kristne Gailte (soprano) and Ieva Pudne (flute). Programme: J.S.Bach, J.G.Mthel, Z.Grdonyi. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 19:00 Inese Galante (soprano) and Aivars Kaljs (organ). 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 19:00 Wine and Music. France. Music by Trio Petit Paris and a tasting of French wine. Programme: E.Bozza, C.Debussy, J. Francaix, F .Poulenc, C.Saint-Saens. 15Ls/21 16:00 J.S. Bach's Christmas Oratory. The Ave Sol Chamber Choir and guests. Free 19:00 European Christmas. Arta Arnicne (piano) and the Baroque orchestra Collegium Musicum Rga. Programme: G.F . Hndel, W.A. Mozart, Antonio Vivaldi. 7 - 10Ls / 10 - 14 19:00 Toy Symphony charity concert. Concert-goers must bring a toy with them to donate SJC RC GG GG RC
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The Vienna Mozart Orchestra will perform Mozart and Strauss in period costume at the Opera on December 23 at 19:30. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
Riga In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS

Classical music
8 10 11 12 12:00 Concerto piccolo. A 20-minute organ music concert by Dina Jaunzeme. 5Ls / 7 12:00 Concerto piccolo. A 20-minute organ music concert by Ligita Sneibe. 5Ls / 7 19:00 Orthodox Singers (Russia). 4 25Ls / 6 - 36 19:00 Grand concert of Latvian symphonic music featuring the Symphony Orchestra of the Jzeps Vtols Latvian Academy of Music, the Liepja Symphony Amber Sound Orchestra, the choir and symphony orchestra of the Latvian National Opera and the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra. Programme: Jzeps Vtols, Pteris Barisons, Valts Pce (premiere) and riks Eenvalds. 5 - 20Ls / 7 - 28 20:00 Dmitri Hvorostovsky (Russia). The famous baritone live in Riga. 22 - 70Ls / 31 - 100 19:00 Highlights of 20th-century Music. The Latvian National Symphony Orchestra featuring Jana Ozolina (violin). Programme: Benjamin Britten's Four Sea Interludes for orchestra; Fazil Say's Violin Concerto 1001 Nights in Harem, Op. 25; Witold Lutosawski's Symphony No. 4 19:00 Kokle. Sinfonietta Rga, the Latvian Radio Choir and Laima Jansone. Programme: Lga Celma 'Debesu sta' (Heavens Courtyard); riks Eenvalds 'Tmeki' for kokle and orchestra (Gossamers); Laima Jansone 'Spka vrdi' (Incantation); Zoltns Kodjs Galnti tncok; Veljo Tormis Latvian Bourdon Songs (excerpts); Sergey Prokofiev's Overture on Hebrew Themes. 5 - 15Ls / 7 - 21 RC RC RC GG
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The Harlem Gospel Choir will spread holiday cheer on December 28 at the Riga Congress Centre. Photo courtesy of www.makroconcert.com
Classical music
23 19:30 The Vienna Mozart Orchestra performs Mozart and Strauss in period costume. 15 - 70Ls / 21 - 100 15:00 A Christmas Mood concert with the Ave Sol Chamber Choir. Free 19:00 European Christmas. Panis Angelicus. Sergejs Jgers (countertenor) and Dina Jaunzeme (organ). 10Ls / 14 19:00 White Solstice Night organ music concert. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 19:00 European Christmas. Elna imkus (soprano), Sergejs Jgers (countertenor), the Riga Cathedral Boys Choir and Sinfonietta Rga. Programme: G.F . Hndel, W.A. Mozart. 7 - 20Ls / 10 - 28 19:00 New Year's Gala with the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, Angela Brown (soprano) and the Xylem TRIO. Programme: George Gershwin's Tone Poem An American in Paris; Rhapsody in Blue; excerpts from musicals Oh, Kay!, Girl Crazy and Lady, Be Good; Excerpts from Leonard Bernstein's musical On the Town; Maurice Ravel's Bolero; the Xylem TRIO's Suite on Gershwin Themes 19:00 In the Firmament of the Centuries organ music concert. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 16:00 With Organ Sounds the Year Bids Farewell. Latvia's best organists. 5 - 10Ls / 7 - 15 OP 14 17
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Jan 2 12:00 Concerto piccolo. A 20-minute organ music concert by Jnis Pele. 5Ls / 7 4 12:00 Concerto piccolo. A 20-minute organ music concert by Aigars Reinis. 5Ls / 7 6 12:00 Concerto piccolo. A 20-minute organ music concert by Jolanta Barinska. 5Ls / 7
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The world-famous French pianist Richard Claydermann returns to the Riga Congress Center on December 10 at 20:00. Photo courtesy of www.makroconcert.com
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WHERE TO STAY
Riga really has it all when it comes to hotels. You can stay in an ultra modern design hotel in the old town or a beautiful suite with private terrace and Jacuzzi if you dont mind spending your hard-earned cash. Those travelling on a budget can choose from plenty of B&Bs, hostels and even a few recently opened low-cost hotels. Bear in mind that hotels are often fully booked around New Years Eve. Unless otherwise noted, breakfast and VAT are included in the prices listed here.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning C Swimming pool F Fitness centre 6 Pets allowed K Restaurant A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking D Sauna
Cream of the crop

Europa Royale Riga C-4, Barona 12, tel. (+371) 67 07 94 44, riga@europaroyale.com, www.europaroyale. com. Live like a king or, at the very least, a fabulously wealthy 19th-century tycoon in this historic manor house in the centre of Riga that once belonged to the Benjamin family. Although the structure has been upgraded with modern conveniences such as lifts and climate control, the parquet floors, wooden columns, stained glass windows, ornate fireplaces and gilded ceilings have all been restored to their original glory. All rooms are spacious, elegantly decorated and include all of the amenities you would expect from a luxurious hotel. Q60 rooms (1 single 80, 42 doubles 80, 6 suites 190, 1 apartment 451, 10 junior suites 100). PHAR6UKDXW Hotel Bergs C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga Bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 00, reservations@hotelbergs. lv, www.hotelbergs.lv. Spacious, tasteful and luxurious. Pamper yourself in this sleek, centrally located yet quiet hotel in the trendy Berga Bazrs shopping plaza. Offering an array of amenities, Hotel Bergs spacious interiors are a contrast of light and dark, wood and linen. Discuss matters of grave importance in the top floor glass conference hall which seats up to 120 people or unwind in its stylish restaurant - one of Rigas best. Hotel Bergs is a member of the alliance of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Q Breakfast: 25. 38 rooms (21 studio suites from 174, 7 apartment suites from 266, 6 loft suites from 266, 4 penthouse suites from 350). PHARUFLGKDW Hotel Neiburgs I-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67
11 55 22, reservation@neiburgs.com, www.neiburgs. com. This stylish design hotel is housed in one of Old Rigas most beautiful art nouveau buildings. All 55 of its apartments include a combination of modern minimalist dcor and original elements like restored parquet floors that date back to 1903. Kitchens, spacious rooms, huge plasma TVs, free wireless internet access, bathrooms with bathtubs, slippers and robes and excellent views all come standard. Two-storey suites, accommodation with balconies and an excellent restaurant are also available. Q55 rooms (36 studio apartments 120, 4 studio deluxe 167, 8 senior suites 199, 7 two-storey suites 214 - 259). PJHAR6UFKDXW
W Free wireless internet RC Riga Card discounts
Upmarket
Albert Hotel B-4, Dzirnavu 33, tel. (+371) 67 33 17
17, www.alberthotel.lv. Nearly everything in this huge 11-storey hotel revolves around a common theme - Albert Einstein and his theories. Each of the 246 rooms includes a quote from the father of modern science, the conference facilities are named space, time and light, the do not disturb signs simply say Im thinking and even the carpets include a pattern of working atoms. All rooms are tastefully decorated with relaxing autumnal colours and have the standard amenities you would expect from a great hotel. A restaurant and 11th-floor cocktail lounge are also at your disposal. Q246 rooms (7 singles 64, 225 doubles 69, 12 business class 104, 2 disabled-friendly 64). PHA6UGKW
Astor Riga Hotel H-2, Z.A.Meierovica bulv. 10, tel. (+371) 67 21 77 77, reservations@astorrigahotel.lv, www.astorrigahotel.lv. This four-star hotel is spread out across two beautiful 19th-century buildings on the edge of Old Riga just opposite the picturesque Bastion Hill Park. All of its 60 rooms are similar in style and include all of the modern amenities you might expect such as mini-bars, safe, coffee/tea sets, private bathrooms, writing desks and free wireless internet access as well as a few interesting perks like smart LCD TVs and complimentary Rituals toiletries. Business accommodation affords guests excellent views, while comfort rooms have the added benefit of Jacuzzis. Conference facilities, a bar and two restaurants are also at your disposal. Q60 rooms (12 singles 65, 20 doubles 72, 4 junior suites 105, 19 business 85, 4 comfort 95). PJHAUKXW
Aparthotels
Aparthotel RigaApartment C-5, ertrdes 54, tel. (+371) 20 06 00 09, reservation@rigaapartment. com, www.rigaapartment.com. Although Riga has lots of hotels and many more apartments, it doesnt offer many aparthotels. RigaApartment offers 20 affordable apartments in one building that are all available for short-term rental, so you can stay for as little as one night or spend a whole week here. The apartments are incredibly spacious with high ceilings and hardwood floors and offer a wide variety of amenities including comfortable furniture, full kitchens, washing machines, flat screen TVs and at least one bathroom and bedroom (depending on the apartment). Some of the flats also have fireplaces, but we preferred the cosy attic apartments. A lift is also at your disposal and a Latvian restaurant is available on the ground floor of the building. Q 20 apartments (one-, two- and threebedroom apartments 35 - 80). ALW
(+371) 67 09 33 33, info.ridzene.riga@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/ridzenehotel-riga. A 1980s edifice that once served as accommodation for the cream of Soviet society now houses one of Rigas most deluxe hotels. Expect comfy rooms with cherry wood decorations and an excellent top-floor sauna and fitness complex with 180 views. Naturally, all of its rooms include every modern convenience including flat screen TVs and high-speed wireless internet access, not to mention bathrobes, which is always a nice touch. Its ground floor restaurant is located below a glass pyramid that affords great views of the park across the street. Q 95 rooms (78 standard class 96, 13 business class 166, 3 suites 439, 1 presidential suite 941). PHAUFLGKDW
Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel G-3, Reimersa 1, tel.
Riga In Your Pocket
WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE

Hotel Gutenbergs H-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 81 40 90, www.gutenbergs.lv. The only way that this luxury hotel could have a better location would be if it were located inside Latvias largest cathedral instead of right next to it. All rooms offer the usual amenities including satellite TV, writing desk, wireless internet and spacious bathrooms, but we recommend the cosy, rustically furnished rooms in the section that was once a 17th-century warehouse. In keeping with the Johannes Gutenberg theme, a small bronze book is attached to each room key. Dont miss its summer rooftop restaurant. Q38 rooms (14 singles 100, 17 doubles 114, 1 suite 170, 6 junior suites 140). PJHA6ULKW RC
67 03 19 00, www.centrumhotels.com. This four-star hotel housed in a completely renovated neo-Gothic building built in 1883, offers spacious rooms with satellite TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, internet access and private bathrooms with bathtub and bidet as well as a bar, restaurant, modern conference facilities and a fitness centre. Many of the rooms also include balconies with excellent views of the park and surrounding 19th-century architecture. Named after the owners daughter, Monika also offers incredible suites with original decorative artwork and four-poster beds. Q80 rooms (12 singles 76, 50 doubles 86, 3 suites 130, 1 apartment 150, 14 junior suites 96). PHAR6UFKDXW
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Monika Centrum Hotel B-3, Elizabetes 21, tel. (+371)
Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel D-2, Kuu 24, tel.

(+371) 67 06 11 11, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-riga. Singles and doubles are spacious and include cable TV, mini-bar and full bathroom. Business travellers can choose business class rooms or suites, which are more spacious and include a few extra perks like two phone lines for internet access and other amenities. An excellent fitness centre with a pool is available as well as conference rooms and a restaurant. Q356 rooms (97 singles 66, 171 doubles 96, 25 suites 250, 12 apartments 250, 51 business class 150). PHA6UFKDXCW
Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel C-4, Elizabetes 73, tel. (+371) 67 78 55 55, www.radissonblu.com/ elizabetehotel-riga. Built from the ground up in 2008, this incredibly stylish hotel is located opposite Rigas most beautiful park a short walk from Old Riga. Its interior was created by a trendy London design firm and each of its modern, spacious rooms includes flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, large bathrooms and many other four-star amenities as well as views of either the courtyard or the park. A fitness centre, a hip cocktail bar and a grill restaurant called C.U.T. are also at your disposal and an ice machine is located on each floor which is unheard of in Latvia. Q 228 rooms (186 standard class 100, 38 business class 140, 3 suites 300, 1 tworoom suite 400). PHAUFLGKDW Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija C-4, Elizabetes 55, tel. (+371) 67 77 22 22, www.radissonblu.com/latvijahotelriga. This one-time In-Tourist skyscraper has been transformed into one of Latvias premier hotels. All rooms include phone, mini-bar, hair dryer, climate control and satellite TV. Executive class suites are more spacious and include a few extra amenities. Allergy and smoke-free accommodation is also at your disposal, as well as three bars, a restaurant, conference facilities and room service, not to mention a new wing with dozens of shops, gourmet food shop and a caf. If youre in the mood to be pampered, a five-star spa, ESPA Riga, with six floors of pools, fitness equipment and saunas is connected to the hotel. Dont miss the view from the 26th-floor Skyline Bar. Q 571 rooms (212 standard class 96, 317 superior class 136, 38 business class 166, 3 suites 370, 1 presidential suite 520). POTHAUFGKDCW www.riga.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
22
WHERE TO STAY
Latvia says goodbye to the lat
Latvia will officially join the Eurozone on January 1, 2014. Although Latvians should be used to changing their currency, as theyve done it several times over the past century, the move to the euro is still being met by locals with excitement, trepidation or downright anxiety. Most economists, businessmen and bankers are over the moon, but many Latvians are having a tough time saying goodbye to the lat, which at the time of writing was the fourth most valuable currency in the world. Some fear that life will become more expensive in a post-lat Latvia, while others simply have an emotional tie to the currency. It was a matter of national pride when Latvia restored the lat as its legal tender in the early 1990s after decades of using Soviet roubles. A mere 20 years later, Latvians have to once again let go of the currency that is essentially seen as a symbol of the nations sovereignty and its rebirth after years of stagnation behind the Iron Curtain. Despite the reluctance to switch on sentimental grounds, plenty of locals see the adoption of the euro as a symbol of economic progress and proof that Latvia has reclaimed its rightful place among the other nations of Europe.
Radi un Draugi I-2, Mrstau 3, tel. (+371) 67 82 02 00, www.draugi.lv. First created as a hotel for the family and friends of the Latvian exile organisation that owns it, this hotel has now expanded to three buildings on a popular Old Riga street. All rooms are spacious and include cable TV, wireless internet access, phone, refrigerator, coffee or tea kettle and modern bathrooms with hair dryer and shower or tub. Accommodation in the original section has a bit of old world charm, while newer rooms offer warm interiors with Latvian wooden furniture. A bar and lounge that looks like an English gentlemens club is also available. Q 72 rooms (16 singles from 68, 48 doubles from 78, 2 family rooms from 133, 4 suites from 158). PJHA6KW Tallink Hotel Riga D-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 60, www.hotels.tallink.com. This stylish hotel located a short walk from Old Riga was built from the ground up in 2010. You can expect modern dcor in all of its 256 rooms, which include brown, white and silver colours, flat screen TVs, free wireless internet access, safe, phone and other 4-star amenities as well as bathrooms with heated tile floors and huge showerheads. A restaurant, lobby bar, caf, cigar room and beauty salon are also available and kids are given colouring books and crayons while their parents check in. A morning sauna is also included in the price and underground parking is available. Q256 rooms (21 singles 70, 227 doubles 77, 3 suites 170, 5 junior suites 114). PHAUFKDXW Wellton Centrum Hotel & SPA I-3, Kalju 33, tel.
NEW
Thankfully, Latvians will at least be able to see timeless and familiar images on their own euro coins. One and two euro coins will feature the stylised profile of a Latvian folk maiden wearing a traditional wreath that was once used on silver 5 lat coins in the 1920s and 30s, while 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cent coins will include the Latvian coat of arms. The coins were minted in Badden-Wrttenburg, Germany and you can take a look at the new designs at www.bank.lv/en/euand-euro/latvian-euro-coins or see them in the flesh so to speak at the Riga Train Station (in the main hall opposite the local train ticket counters). A free, travelling euro exhibition dedicated to the history of the currency is also available at the Daile Theatre (B-5, Brvbas 75, www.eiroizstade.lv; open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00) until December 13. So what does the euro switch mean for you? Well, if youre visiting Latvia in December then the easy answer is, not very much. Youll notice that all businesses, whether hotels, restaurants, tour companies or shops, have to clearly post all prices in both lats and euro and this practice will continue until June 30, 2014. On January 1, 2014 you can start using euros anywhere in Latvia, but lats will also be accepted for another two weeks until January 14. If you have a bank account in Latvia in lats the amount will automatically be converted into euros at the official rate: 1Ls = 1.42 (1 = 0.702804Ls). The Bank of Latvia (G-1, Valdemra 1B, www.bank.lv; open 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun) will also sell commemorative sets of the new Latvian euro coins for collectors. For more information about Latvia and its historic currency exchange visit www.eiro. lv. Photos of new euro coins courtesy of Latvijas Banka
(+371) 67 13 06 74, www.wellton.com. When one walks into the grand lobby of this design hotel theyre immediately drawn to the huge aquariums that separate the reception area from the stylish, yet affordable restaurant. All rooms are decorated in a similar fashion with beige and grey tones and light wooden furnishings and amenities include flat screen TVs, mini-bar, safe, coffee/tea sets, free wi-fi, ironing boards, spacious bathrooms and climate control, not to mention bathrobes on each bed. A huge medieval wall has been successfully integrated into the design of some of the hallways and a spa centre including a swimming pool is available in the basement. Q120 rooms (5 singles 60, 97 doubles 74, 2 triples 105, 1 junior suite 125, 15 superior 109). PJHARUKDCW
Wellton Elefant Hotel Kalnciema 90, tel. (+371) 67 22 55 60, www.wellton.com. If the gold elephant on the pedestal in the courtyard didnt get youre attention, the 600kg, 6m-high white elephant in the bar/reception area certainly will. This sleek, modern glass and steel hotel offers rooms with either light or dark wallpaper and furniture, depending on the floor, and all include floor to ceiling windows, big flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, mini-bar, complimentary coffee/tea sets, safe and phone. A small spa centre, a restaurant and underground parking are also available.Take bus N22 to the RMR (from the airport) or Candera iela (from the centre) stop. Q153 rooms (126 doubles 76, 3 triples 90, 13 suites 96, 1 apartment 131, 10 junior suites 86). PHA6UFLGKW Wellton Gertrude Hotel C-5, Gertrudes 70, tel. (+371) 67 79 16 03, www.wellton.com. Located in a residential neighbourhood in the city centre, this large hotel offers over 50 rooms that include flat screen satellite TVs, phone, writing desk, free wireless internet access, mini-bar, climate control, safe and private bathrooms with hair dryers and complimentary toiletries. The interiors are clean and attractive and a conference room is also available as well as a breakfast room. Q47 rooms (4 singles 50, 28 doubles 64, 3 triples 93, 8 deluxe doubles 93, 4 family rooms 107). PHARW www.riga.inyourpocket.com
Riga In Your Pocket
WHERE TO STAY
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Wellton Old Riga Palace J-2, Minsterejas 8/10, tel. (+371) 67 55 97 90, www.wellton.com. This elegant Old Riga hotel offers old world atmosphere with wood panelling, crystal chandeliers and the occasional piece of antique furniture. Rooms are similar in style with light walls and red carpeting and include such amenities as satellite TV, air conditioning, safe, mini-bar, coffee/tea sets and private bathrooms. Superior rooms are more spacious and some even include balconies. A bar, fitness centre and a lobby area with both free wireless internet access as well as three computer workstations are also available. Q100 rooms (12 singles 64, 71 doubles 79 86, 5 triples 111, 1 suite 136, 11 Balcony rooms 114). PJHAR6FKDW Wellton Terrace Design Hotel B-3, Dzirnavu 2, tel. (+371) 67 82 82 87, www.wellton.com. This stylish design hotel is spread out across two historic buildings that surround a common courtyard. Each of its 40 rooms is slightly different in style, but most offer modern grey minimalist interiors with at least one funky design element, usually a lamp, in a bold colour to liven things up. Guests can expect plenty of space, flat screen TVs, phone, free wireless internet, climate control and private bathrooms with hairdryer and either a bathtub or shower. A breakfast buffet is served in a trendy restaurant with its own rooftop terrace, hence the name of the hotel. Q 40 rooms (3 singles from 39, 31 doubles from 44, 4 triples from 65, 2 apartments from 80). PHA6W
Forums I-3, Vau 45, tel. (+371) 67 81 46 80, www. hotelforums.lv. This modern hotel located on the edge of Old Riga offers elegantly decorated rooms with dark red and gold upholstered wooden furnishings, satellite TV, writing desk, phone and private bathrooms with bath. Although almost all of the rooms are spacious and comfortable we recommend you splurge on the top-floor suite with its own sauna or the two luxurious rooms with large tiled balconies with views of the city and the river. Not far from the bus and train stations. Q 32 rooms (25 doubles from 37, 4 triples from 62, 3 junior suites from 62). JAKXW Karavella Hotel A-3, Katrnas dambis 27, tel. (+371) 67 32 31 30, www.karavellahotel.lv. The owners of this high-rise building have invested millions to transform an ageing hotel into modern, dare we say, stylish accommodation only a short tram ride from the city centre and Old Riga. All of its rooms are tastefully decorated in neutral beige tones with the occasional splash of colour and include climate control, flat screen TVs, free wi-fi, phone and bathrooms with bathtubs and hair dryers. Superior and deluxe rooms are similar, but with much more space and sofas. The Colombo restaurant on the 12th floor provides unparalleled views of the city and refined international cuisine and a lobby bar is available on the ground floor. Take tram N5 or 9 to the Ptersalas iela stop and walk north up Katrnas to the hotel. Q76 rooms (8 singles 66, 45 doubles 76, 15 superior 96, 3 wheelchair accessible 96, 5 deluxe 131). PTHAUFLGKW Riga Airport Hotel ABC amptera 139a, tel. (+371)
67 89 27 28, www.hotelabc.lv. Although this place is halfway between the airport and the centre, its worth the drive if youre looking for decent accommodation at a good price. All rooms have modern bathrooms with showers, light coloured interiors with wooden furniture, TV, mini-bar, telephone and internet as well as access to a sauna and conference room. During the summer a proper pool is also available, as well as an area for hooking up your camper if youre travelling with an RV.. Q60 rooms (11 singles 57, 36 doubles 71, 10 triples 100, 1 suite 114, 1 apartment 141, 1 junior suite 79). HAR6UFLKDC RC
Mid-range
88 16, www.laine.lv. From the sunny staff to the unique, spacious and colourful interior, Laine is a superb, affordable central find located in a restored art nouveau building. Rooms offer cable TV, mini-bar, private bathrooms and interesting dcor that includes antique furniture and paintings by Latvian artists. Conference facilities, a restaurant with a fireplace and summer terrace and free wireless internet access are also available. Q 35 rooms (15 singles from 40, 14 doubles from 50, 5 apartments from 114, 1 suite from 114). HARLKX RC www.avitar.lv. In designing the place, the owners used four as the magic numberno matter its size, each room has an area for sleeping, eating, relaxing and working. Originally intended to be apartments, most of the large accommodations have two rooms, and amenities like a water kettle, refrigerator, phone, cable TV and private bathrooms with showers. Q46 rooms (singles 26, doubles 31, triples 46, business class 69). A6LGKW
Art Hotel Laine B-4, Skolas 11, tel. (+371) 67 28
Avitar A-5, Valdemra 127, tel. (+371) 67 36 44 44,
Country holidays
Lauku Ceotjs www.celotajs.lv. Check out its comprehensive website to find the countryside vacation of your dreams. Ride horses, go fishing, sweat it out in a traditional sauna, enjoy a romantic evening by a roaring fire in a renovated farmhouse or a regal stay in an ancient castle. You can search by region, type of accommodation, amenities offered and other parameters. December 2013 - January 2014
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WHERE TO STAY
Explore the countryside!
Latvia boasts nearly 500km of untouched beaches, dozens of ancient Crusader castles, scores of manor houses that have been converted into hotels and spas, charming medieval towns and pristine nature reserves that are just begging to be explored. Although many of these attractions can be reached by public transport, if youd like to see more than one in a day, we recommend you contact our English-speaking friend Jnis (info@ carsrent.lv or (+371) 29 58 04 48) who will drive you anywhere you want to go in Latvia for an affordable fee. Sigulda & Turaida: only an hour train ride from Rigas central station youll find this historic gem perched atop a valley overlooking the meandering River Gauja. E xplore two castle ruins, one renovated castle, a 19th-century manor house and the largest sandstone cave in the Baltics. Csis: located a little farther down the same railway line, the charming town of Csis is considered to be the most Latvian city in the whole country and its also the birthplace of the Latvian flag, one of Europes oldest. Its main attraction is its enormous Crusader castle, but the town itself and its 12th-century church are also picturesque and worth a visit. Rundle Palace & Bauska: only an hour bus ride south of Riga youll find the town of Bauska whose main claim to fame is its giant castle situated at the confluence of the Msa and Mmele rivers. Its also a good place from which to explore nearby Rundle Palace, Latvias most impressive 18th-century baroque treasure.
Bed & Breakfast

B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude C-5, Barona 39-1 (entrance from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 50 66 04, fax (+371) 67 50 66 03, reservation@kg.lv, www.kg.lv. Not unlike a typical British B&B, this hotel only offers five rooms, but each is decorated in a different fashion and provides cable TV, free wireless internet access, modern bathrooms, coffee/tea set and a cosy atmosphere that one would expect from a home away from home. A common room is also available with a kitchenette and a computer with internet access. Q5 rooms (2 singles 36, 2 doubles 46, 1 triple 56). A6GW Hotel Multilux C-5, Barona 37 (entrance from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 31 16 02/(+371) 29 40 03 43, fax (+371) 67 31 16 40, hotel@multilux.lv, www. multilux.lv. All of the rooms in this historic Art Nouveau building in the centre of Riga are completely renovated with tasteful furniture, cable TV and en suite bathrooms. Multilux is family-owned so youre guaranteed good service as well as internet access, housekeeping, 24-hour reception and a breakfast buffet. A great value! Q15 rooms (3 singles 17 - 29, 3 doubles 26 - 41, 2 triples 30 - 41, 5 twin 21 - 36, 1 six-bed room 56 - 84, 1 studio apartment 71). AR6GW Jakob Lenz Guesthouse B-3, Lenu 2, tel. (+371) 67 33 33 43, fax (+371) 67 33 13 78, reservation@ guesthouselenz.lv, www.guesthouselenz.lv. This B&B located in a quiet residential neighbourhood is only a stones throw from the citys most impressive Art Nouveau buildings and offers bright and spacious rooms, many with private bathrooms, within renovated apartments on three floors. A full kitchen is also available as well as a communal computer with internet access or free wireless in rooms. Q 28 rooms (singles from 26, basic doubles from 27, ensuite doubles from 31, suites from 60). A6W
Budget
Liene C-6, Avotu 75, tel. (+371) 67 31 47 67, www. lathotel.lv. Liene may be difficult to find and a little far from the main tourist attractions, but its prices more than make up for these deficiencies. Walk into the courtyard and through the door on the left and youll discover a cosy banquet hall and bar as well as a sauna with a huge chest-high wooden tub for soaking yourself after a session of sweating. Rooms are small, but comfortable and recently renovated with cable TV, writing desk and private bathroom with shower. The apartments also have kitchenettes for self catering. Q16 rooms (4 singles 23, 11 doubles 26, 1 triple 37). Breakfast: 4.28. ALGKDW RC
Apartment rental
Agency Lilija Plus I-3, Rdzenes 25, tel. (+371) 67 21 60 40/(+371) 29 23 81 06, lila@latnet.lv, www.lilarealty.lv. Great choice of renovated apartments in Old Riga and the city centre from studio to four-bedroom apartments. Airport transfer, cleaning services and long-term rentals also available. Professional English-speaking staff. Agency STES Latvia H-1, Bskapa 6, tel. (+371) 26 44
85 10, www.stes.lv. Furnished, renovated apartments in or near Old Riga for short and long-term rental. All apartments are comfortable and fully equipped with cable TV, kitchen and bathroom. STES also offers rental properties including apartments, country houses and summer cottages in the countryside, Jrmala and various locations along the Baltic coastline.
Apartments Valdemra B-4/5, Valdemra 91, tel.
(+371) 20 06 00 09/(+371) 29 57 62 69, www.rigaflatrent.com. This reputable company offers four tastefully decorated apartments for short-term rental in one building on Valdemra iela not far from Arena Riga and only a short trolleybus ride from Old Riga. Each apartment includes everything you could possibly need or want including satellite TV, full kitchen, washing machine, modern furnishings and bathroom and free wi-fi. Bed linens, towels and toiletries are included in the price. Q AGW
Snow-covered cannon on Tora iela
M.Zaprauskis
Riga In Your Pocket
WHERE TO STAY
Skanste A-4, Skanstes 9, tel. (+371) 67 51 99 23,
www.hotelskanste.lv. Not being right in the city centre comes with its advantages. Peace and quiet, fresh air, green views, open space and the closest proximity of any hotel to Arena Riga, the best venue for concerts and sporting events in the city. Skanste isnt at the height of fashion, but doesnt try to be. The recipe here is genuine country-style friendliness and straightforward comfort in a family environment. Disabled guests also welcome. Q 34 rooms (8 singles 27, 18 doubles 41, 6 triples 56, 2 junior suites 64). HA6ULGKW
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Hostels
Central Hostel D-5, E. Birznieka-Upa 20, tel. (+371) 22 32 26 63, reception@centralhostel.lv, www.centralhostel.lv. Just look for the only orange wooden house on the corner (perhaps the only one in Riga). Rooms are somewhat spacious and include bright coloured interiors. Modern shared toilets and showers are located in the hallway and a small kitchen and common room with TV, CD player and games are also at your disposal. Breakfast, a smoking room with hookahs, free internet access and a book exchange corner are also available. A grocery store is located on the ground floor and the hostel also rents bikes. Q 21 rooms (2 singles 26, 10 doubles 40, 1 triple 54, 4-, 5- and 6-bed dorms from 8.60/person). TA6LW Doma Hostel I-2, Maz Jaunavu 8, tel. (+371) 67 21 31 01, info@domahostel.lv, www.domahostel.lv. Spread out across four floors of an historic Old Riga building, this cosy hostel offers dorms with incredibly high ceilings on the second floor or more intimate rooms on the third and fourth floors that include original oak beams and even the remnants of an antique pulley system once used to lift goods to the attic in medieval times. Each floor has its own bathrooms and toilets as well as a small kitchenette with a refrigerator, sink and a microwave. Many of its rooms also include excellent views of Town Hall Square and the River Daugava. Free wi-fi is included in the price and theres no curfew. Q 9 rooms (1 single 29, 3 doubles 40, 2 triples 50, 1 apartment 86, 2 dorms 14/person). PAR6W Red Nose Hostel I-2, Ja 14, tel. (+371) 27 72 14 14, info@rednose.lv, www.rednose.lv. Housed in an historic building on a charming Old Riga side street, the Red Nose Hostel has nothing to do with old rummies or gin blossoms, but rather derives its name from the unique paintings of clowns that grace one wall of each of its eight rooms. Doubles and dorms all feature pinewood floors, a sink and reading lamps next to the beds. A modern, clean toilet and shower is available on each of the hostels three floors and a kitchenette, lockers and free wi-fi are also on offer but a towel will cost you extra so you might want to bring your own. Top-floor rooms offer great views of St. Johns Church next door. Q 7 rooms (4 twin 28 - 38, 3 4-bed dorms 14 - 17/person, 1 10-bed dorm 8.50 - 14/person). Breakfast not included. JAGW Riga Hostel D-4, Merea 1 (4th floor), tel. (+371) 22 33 78 84, reception@rigahostel.com.lv, www.rigahostel.com.lv. Located above a McDonalds, youll never be far from a quick meal or coffee even at midnight at this modern, comfortable hostel. Prices for beds are affordable and the location near the train station, bus terminal and Old Riga couldnt be more convenient. A kitchen is available if youd like to do your own cooking and a relaxation room is also at your disposal where you can watch TV or a DVD, surf the net for free or smoke a hookah. No curfew. Q 13 rooms (1 single 18.50, 6 twin 21, dorm beds from 5.70 - 8.50/ person). A6LXW www.riga.inyourpocket.com
34 06, www.rigaoldtownhostel.lv. The Aussie owners of this hip hostel made it clear to us that the place is meant to be a fun, safe place to stay in Old Riga for anyone who can appreciate comfortable beds, great atmosphere and one of the best pubs in the city. In fact, three floors of the building are occupied by drinking space and the top three floors house dorm rooms with light blue walls and red bunk beds with individual lighting and storage lockers. The hostel lacks a kitchen, but all guests can get a free breakfast beer at the bar if they wake up before 12:00. The whole building was completely renovated in 2013 and its obvious that it was a labour of love. Q JAGW
Riga Old Town Hostel I-3, Vau 43, tel. (+371) 67 22
NEW
The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers I-3, Kalju 50, tel. (+371) 67 22 00 73/(+371) 26 46 12 48, info@ thenaughtysquirrel.com, www.thenaughtysquirrel. com. The walls are cluttered with postcards and posters, a dozen litre mugs hang temptingly above a bar and youth of all nationalities are in constant motion... and thats just the reception area. Walk down hallways covered in graffiti by local street artists to find singles, family rooms and dorms each of which includes private lockers and even speakers that can be plugged into your iPod. Shared toilets and showers, a full kitchen and a communal room with cable TV, a DVD player and three free computers are also available here at the place that Hostelworld.com rated the 9th best hostel in the world! It also offers a wide range of tours and activities like bungee jumping and shooting AK-47s. Q 20 rooms (4 doubles 46, 3 triples 50, 2 four-bed dorms 10 17/person, 4 six-bed dorms 12 - 14/person, 4 eight-bed dorms 11 - 13/person, 2 ensuite 43 - 50). Breakfast not included. JAW December 2013 - January 2014
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RESTAUrANTS
The global financial crisis sent many a chef packing, but you can still find a thin-crust pizza, fresh sushi, hearty pork knuckle and potatoes or an Armenian shashlik in Riga without much effort and many cafs offer cheap lunch specials to lure diners into their establishments. A tip of 10% is expected at most places. The average cost of a main course is listed in parentheses.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly X Smoking section A Credit cards accepted S Take away Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled
Armenian
Akhtamar D-4, Merea 9, tel. (+371) 67 21 50 32, www.akhtamar.lv. This cavernous brick cellar is a maze of rooms and niches decorated with traditional kilims hanging from the walls. Huge servings of grilled lamb, beef, pork and even trout are here in abundance as well as hearty soups and stews and a great selection of wines and brandies from across the Caucasus region. Beer lovers wont be disappointed either with Czech Budweiser and local Lplsis on draught. A large smoking section is available for anyone who needs a cigarette with his or her shashlik. QOpen 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (7 - 10) AEX Aragats B-5, Miera 15, tel. (+371) 67 37 34 45. Yerevans loss is Rigas gain. Going to this authentic restaurant is like visiting an Armenian family for dinner, only youre presented with a bill at the end of the evening. Feast on mouth-watering grilled lamb, veal and pork shashliks and a wide variety of other delicious cuisine from the Caucasus Mountains. The aquamarine walls and fake plastic grape vines of this former second floor apartment are an acquired taste, but when your host mashes your baked vegetables at your table, youll quickly forget about the Soviet-style interior. When in the company of men, women are given menus without prices. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (8 - 14) AX
W Free wireless internet RC Riga Card discounts
Mene (The Nun) E-1, Nometu 58, tel. (+371) 67 61

83 80. Come inside the Nun for faux rock walls, chunky wooden tables and a good selection of incredibly cheap local beer. The illustrated menu offers Armenian and Latvian cuisine from succulent meats grilled outside under a canopy of smoke to pork knuckle, herring and grey peas with bacon. If youre enjoying a night out on the town try the appetiser platter for real men consisting of smoked meat, pork fat, onions, gherkins and two shots of vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7) AIE
Asian
dADa I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 10
44 33. The absurd interior and costumes worn by the wait staff prove that Dadaism isnt dead. Although soups and main courses are on offer, most people choose the food market which is essentially a Mongolian barbecue. Pick a sauce, take a bowl and fill it to the top with a variety of raw vegetables, noodles, meat or seafood and leave it with the chef. Within minutes itll be cooked and brought back to your table. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (7 - 10) A
TOP Events
www.LiveRiga.com
VIP Egle, Einrs Timma
January 19 - March 23
Valdis Celms, Pozitrons, 1976
Christmas Tree Trail 2013

The festival is a fresh and original artistic activity in an urban environment, which exhibits new, traditional or completely avant-garde visions of the Christmas tree. In 2013, almost 70 environmental objects will surprise with originality and variety of materials used to implement ideas, starting from light installations up to wood, glass, brick, and even use of air and heat. Environmental objects in their glory will be seen when the city lights will be switched on. Riga
Exhibition Visionary structures. From Johansons to Johansons

The exhibition is a reflection of the Latvian avantgarde art in the 20th and 21st centuries these artists, who represent various generations where each of them is an art innovator of his time, give an insight into experimental or maybe even utopic artistic values and their historical change. National Library of Latvia
Riga In Your Pocket
RESTAUrANTS
tel. (+371) 67 28 84 20, www.ganbei.lv. Located on the 7th floor a popular shopping mall, this stylish restaurant is a must see for hungry shoppers. You can order a wide range of Asian cuisine from sushi and sashimi to classic Chinese and Indian dishes that are listed on a menu thats as long as a novel. The quality of the food is excellent, but in our opinion the serving sizes could be a bit bigger. No matter. You can console yourself with a tasty cocktail or a delicious Valmiermuia draught. Although the trendy interior is definitely a draw, most people would give their right arm to get a seat out on the wonderful terrace. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 27 00 05 40; D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371) 67 07 30 12; and most shopping centres. (7 - 12) AVS
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Gan Bei C-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga - 7th floor),
Himalaju-zijas virtuve B-5, Brvbas 102, tel. (+371) 20 37 29 38. After working for the popular Gan Bei chain of Asian restaurants in Riga for seven years Nepalese chef Ban Bhandari decided to open his own restaurant specialising in Chinese, Thai, Indian and Nepalese cuisine and were very happy that he did. Unlike the aforementioned restaurant that places a large emphasis on its modern interior, this family-run eatery is a much simpler affair with standard furniture and a few photos of Himalayan vistas. Here its all about the delicious food, which is often quite spicy, and the friendly service provided by the chef and his wife. Vegetarian dishes are also on offer as well as a cheap business lunch from 12:00 - 17:00. If you like it hot, try the crispy chilli chicken. QOpen 11:00 21:00. Closed Sun. (4 - 8) ASW Wok to Walk I-3, Aspazijas bulvris 30, tel. (+371) 28 61 61 81, www.woktowalk.com. This international chain of Asian fast food restaurants has finally reached the shores of the Baltic Sea. Queue up and order one of six noodle or rice dishes followed by your choice of meat and veggies and one of the sauces that range from spicy chilli and curry to sweet teriyaki. All of the ingredients are cooked to order by the cheeky chefs behind a glass partition who shout your name when the meal is ready. The modern interior is a quirky combination of pine floors, polished plywood walls, black tiles in the kitchen area and metal industrial-style shelving and lighting. Lines can be daunting at lunchtime but the process is actually quick and efficient. Free wi-fi is also a pleasant perk. QOpen 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (4 - 6) JASW
Bakeries
Cadets de Gascogne G-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 8, tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03, www.cadets.lv. Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Laranes French bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pt, quiches, strong coffee, and freshsqueezed orange juice also make this boulangerie a favourite retreat. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also at C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas 13 (Berga Bazrs). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00; C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from ertrdes). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00; C-5, ertrdes 30, tel. (+371) 67 87 62 65. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun; B-4, Valdemra 37. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. A Rigensis I-2, Tirgou 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 30 50. If Latvias local bakeries have failed to impress with their solid black breads and meat buns, you might consider giving Rigensis a try. Fresh baguettes, potato and corn breads as well as cakes and plenty of sweet pastries are baked every day and they can be enjoyed on the rustic-style premises with a glass of wine, juice, Perrier or just a cup of coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A www.riga.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
28
RESTAUrANTS
Barbecue
77 05 73, www.charlestons.lv. Weve been big fans of this casual, yet elegant restaurant in the city centre for years and if you drop by youll see why. The main dining hall offers soft, dark colours and much of the space is divided by stacks of alder firewood, which is used to smoke many of its meat and fish dishes. In fact, the delicious half chickens, pork and beef ribs and other Charleston delicacies are smoked for 4 - 14 hours in a specially-designed smoke room downstairs. Naturally, seafood and a variety of vegetarian dishes are also available for the non-carnivores among us. So if you like good beer, wine and cocktails and mouth-watering barbecued meals, then look no further than Charlestons, which also has a great Sunday brunch from 11:00 - 15:00 thats fun for the whole family. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (10 - 21) ASW
Cafs
Fazenda D-1, Nometu 7, tel. (+371) 67 61 61 96, www.fazenda.lv. The rooms of this historic building have only partially been restored as the designers decided to simply sand down the existing wood plank walls and ceilings to create a cosy atmosphere that is only enhanced by the tile mosaic tables, the fireplace and the hanging dried flowers. You can sit down for a full meal of international dishes from salads and seafood to steaks or try something from the vegetarian menu or the breakfast meals (served until 12:00, Sat, Sun 14:00). You can also just grab a slice of cake and a latte at the counter. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (4 - 11) AIW Osriss C-4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02. The first of opera director Andrejs agars many caf ventures, and the only one to survive, Osiris found a successful recipe in the mid-1990s and stuck with it. Inexpensive breakfasts, sandwiches, international cuisine and a romantic ambience make this place a favourite of local big shots, politicians and intelligentsia so make a reservation for dinner. The only drawback is the horrible iron tables that were obviously created as torture devices for long legs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (4 - 10) A Spa Caf F-3, Bazncas 4A, tel. (+371) 67 71 52 22,
www.espariga.com. You dont have to be a member of this incredible, award-winning six-storey spa to take advantage of its caf, which, not surprisingly, specialises in light and healthy cuisine. Take a seat in the bright atrium and order a full meal or just try one of its special teas or perhaps a refreshing fruit smoothie. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AW
Charlestons C-4/5, Blaumaa 38/40, tel. (+371) 67
Ribs & Rock I-2, Kau 8, tel. (+371) 28 65 04 50,
www.ribsrestaurant.lv. With a name like Ribs & Rock one might expect a southern-style barbecue joint with wooden picnic tables and paper placemats, but this is an upmarket affair more akin to an elegant blues club than an American roadhouse. In any event, if you like rock music and lots and lots of meat then youre in luck as burgers, steaks, roast beef sandwiches and steak tartar are all on offer as well as some fish dishes for fair weather vegetarians. A separate menu dedicated to a variety of ribs is, however, its main attraction. Each of the dishes is named after a famous rock song or singer and we had a tough time finishing off the U2 platter for two. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (14 - 28) AE
Breakfast
Bergs Restaurant C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.hotelbergs. lv. This design hotels stylish restaurant offers a daily la carte breakfast from 07:30 - 11:00. QOpen 07:30 - 11:00. AW Boulangerie Bonjour G-1, Jkaba 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 32 57 07, www.boulangeriebonjour.lv. This French patisserie serves delicious pastries, cakes, quiche and panini not to mention tea, juice and coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (2 - 5) AW Index Caf H-3, Brvbas 32, tel. (+371) 67 28 77 18, www.indexcafe.lv. Fresh baguettes, pastries, sandwiches, coffee, tea and juice. Q Open 07:30 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. AS K|I|D B-3, Pulkvea Briea 2, tel. (+371) 20 22 24 24, www.restaurantkid.lv. A daily 5 breakfast special is available which includes either an omelette of your choice, pancakes or eggs cooked to order with bacon or ham. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Also at C-4, Trbatas 41/43, tel. (+371) 20 26 86 86. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Osriss C-4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02, osiris@ticino.lv. Osiris specialises in omelettes but it also serves bacon and egg sandwiches, pancakes and even oatmeal. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A Tinto C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 90 85. This stylish wine bar is also open for breakfast early in the morning. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A Riga In Your Pocket
Sweetday Caf H-2, Tirgou 9, tel. (+371) 26 53 72
35, sweetdaycafe.com. Tucked away on a winding street between Town Hall and Cathedral Square, this cosy caf is so popular that it took us three tries just to get a seat here. Inside youll find shelves of books and potted plants as well as white walls covered in art, ads and hand written messages by satisfied patrons in black marker. Order delicious salads, pasta dishes, great cakes and pastries and, of course, plenty of coffee drinks, but dont pass up the hot chocolate smothered in huge marshmallows. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:45. (4 - 8) ASW
Central Asian
22 70, www.uzbekistana.lv. A visit to Uzbekistan is like a trip to Samarkand or Tashkent but without the heat. Its whitewashed walls are decorated with beautiful ceramic plates, traditional tubeteika hats and paintings of Silk Road caravans, while the floor is covered with Central Asian and near eastern carpets. Enjoy delicious shurpas (soups), hot non (bread), spicy manti (meat dumplings) and shashliks (grilled meat) galore. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 24:00. (6 - 12) AS ela), tel. (+371) 67 22 41 80, www.varzob.lv. A Google search reveals that Varzob is a town in Tajikistan, not far from the capital Dushanbe and not much else. This Varzob happens to be a tiny caf at the back end of the modern addition to the Town Hall that serves delicious Central Asian cuisine like lagman (tomato, noodle and lamb soup) with fresh non (bread) for cheap, not to mention very affordable Uavas beer on draught. The food and drink is also usually served by its friendly owner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 7) A
Uzbekistna B-5, Bruinieku 33, tel. (+371) 67 29
Varzoba I-1, Rtslaukums 1 (entrance from Maz Jauni-
RESTAUrANTS
29
THE BEST GRILL RESTAURANT IN TOWN

Blaumana Str. 38/40, Riga
e-mail: info@restaurant-riga.com phone: +371 6777 05 73 www.charlestons.lv facebook.com/restorans @_restaurant
Cheap & Quick

w w w.xlpelmeni.lv. As the name sug gests, i t offers extra large portions of chicken, vegetarian, pork, lamb or cheese pelmei (Russian ravioli) for extra small prices. Also available are two kinds of soups and potato-based salads. Do as the locals do and wash it down with a beer or, if you havent had enough booze at 03:00, an XL shot of Moskovskaya vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. Also at D-4, Stacijas 2 (train station). Open 10:00 - 22:00. (3) S
Chinese
Fei Fei Melnsila 23, tel. (+371) 67 61 20 36, www.
fei-fei.lv. As if its location on the ground floor and basement of a Soviet housing block wasnt surprising enough, Fei Fei actually serves shockingly good Chinese food. In fact, its often hard to find a table at lunch time as locals have also caught on to this little gem. The red interior is typical and a bit boring with perhaps the exception of the miniature terracotta warriors downstairs, but youll find delicious soups, a very decent kung pao chicken and a few surprises like the frogs legs with special spices. The prices seem a little elevated for this part of town, but the business lunch is a bargain at roughly 5 and the sushi menu is quite affordable. Take trolleybus No.25 from Valdemra iela to the Melnsila iela stop. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (7 - 10)
Pelmei XL I-2, Kau 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 27 28,
69 83, www.dailycafe.lv. Unless youre filthy rich, youve probably never eaten lunch at a bank. Well now you can. The Old Riga branch of the Swedish S|E|B bank chain is now also a caf serving sandwiches, salads, soups and plenty of desserts at three light green booths. Although you can just grab whats on offer at the counter, the staff will also make you something from scratch if you ask them politely. Cheap prices, free wi-fi and fair trade coffee make this place an attractive option as do the views of Kau iela, but youll have to contend with non-stop bank advertising, even on the iPads that are attached to each table. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (2 - 5) ASW 14. Help yourself to cheese, meat, potato, banana or plain pancakes, lash them with sour cream or a variety of jams and gobble them down seated between walls made to look like lumpy pancake batter. We wonder what weird incident prompted the management to put the no shower and no horses signs on the window. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (3 - 6)
S|E|B Daily Caf H-2, Vau 11, tel. (+371) 25 48
NEW
Honkonga B-4, Valdemra 61, tel. (+371) 67 81 22
92, www.honkonga.lv. Polite wait staff in embroidered silk shirts promptly serve generous portions of delicious Chinese dishes to their patrons among Buddhas, dragons and hanging lanterns. More exotic and slightly more expensive cuisine includes hot pots and platters of shark steak or stuffed lamb. If youd like some extra spice with your lunch or dinner, add a spoonful of the orange hot oil left on each of its eight tables. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. (7 - 10) AS
efpavrs Vilhelms H-2, u 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 82
nieu Bistro (Chinese Bistro) B-6, aka 110
(entrance from Tallinas), tel. (+371) 67 29 36 96. Not unlike the centrally located buffet in the Valdemra Centre (the owners are related), this Chinese cafeteria offers fried noodles and rice, sweet and sour pork, stir-fried green beans in garlic sauce and other typical staples. The tables can get a bit grimy at times and the Chinese pop videos on the TV have a tendency to annoy, but the food is cheap and tasty. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 4) XS
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RESTAUrANTS
Burger joints
Fontaine Delisnack Riga I-2, Tetra 2, tel. (+371) 67 25 02 50, www.fontaineriga.lv. Its about time that Riga had its very own Delisnack franchise. The hip town of Liepja has been lucky enough to have this cheap slow fast food joint where all of the burgers, burritos and pizzas are cooked to order for quite some time. But unlike the original one on the west coast, Rigas Fontaine has plenty of space and, dare we say, better service. Order delicious burgers served in wax paper with a side of fries and an inexpensive Belgian or Czech brew in a laid-back Bohemian atmosphere in Old Riga. Q Open 24hrs. Also at A-5, A. Brina 9a. (2 - 5) AVS Ghetto Burger B-6, Prnavas 42, tel. (+371) 20 20 44 64, www.ghettofamily.com. Located opposite the Grzikalns skatepark and basketball courts, the aptly named Ghetto Burger has a stylish interior that includes plenty of exposed brick, lots of potted plants, jet black tables and chairs and a mural of a hip and happy Jesus chowing down on a big burger. Half a dozen tasty burgers can be had here for under 3, but we recommend you upgrade your sandwich with an extra meat patty for a small fee. The joint is manned by youngsters, so service is hit or miss, but the food is good and a daily special is also available. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 4) SW
22 02 70 66, www.streetburgers.lv. If you think that yellow clown with the red hair knows how to make a real American burger then go straight to this place to see how mistaken you are. After youve found its odd location in the far corner of a large parking lot order one of six burgers with a side of fries and dont forget to add extra cheese or bacon to tempt fate. Vegetarians will no doubt appreciate the Portobello mushroom burger, but being true gluttons we chose the ghetto burger thats served with two thick beef patties and double cheese. Frozen yoghurt drinks are available as well as Valmiermuias beer on draught not to mention soft drinks with free refills! Q Open 11:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (6 - 9) ALVSW
Emihls Gustavs Chocolate H-3, Aspazijas 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 83 33, www.gustavsgifts.com. It might be best to leave the kids at home as the team of chocolatiers hard at work making delicious candy here may be too much of a temptation for the little dears. Friendly staff are keen to offer useful suggestions from sinfully rich drinks and cakes to enjoy on the premises or exotic chocolates and truffles to take away. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. A Kafka kafija I-3, Vau 26, tel. (+371) 26 09 21 24/ (+371) 28 34 52 51. Why the literary reference to one of the worlds most renowned authors? It may have something to do with the fact that this cosy caf is located on the second floor of the Globuss bookshop. Kafka is one of the few coffee establishments in Riga to roast its own beans, so youre guaranteed a great cup of Java and you can also get it to go in case you dont have time to read a book and admire the interior, which includes quotes by famous writers, a parquet floor and an antique tiled fireplace. Cookies, cake and Latvian country teas are also available as well as Valmiermuia brews. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JSW
Czech
Sveiks, veik! (Hello vejk!) B-5, Stabu 23, tel. (+371) 67 31 46 74, www.svejk.lv. Not unlike the scores of other bars dedicated to Jaroslav Haeks classic character the Good Soldier vejk that dot the Bohemian countryside, this one has a cosy atmosphere of solid oak tables and exposed brick walls on two floors, not to mention its most important feature - great beer. Uavas, Bauskas and Staropramen are on draught, cheap Baltic-Czech cuisine is on the menu and you can even order a shot of ice cold Becherovka that tastes like gingerbread cookies in liquid form. Best of all, unlike the staff that man the beer halls of Prague, the ladies here arent afraid to smile when they take your order. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8) AE
Street Burgers C-4, Brvbas 40 - 11, tel. (+371)
Doughnuts & Muffins

www.crazydonuts.lv. Although this staple American snack will probably never be as popular in Riga as it is in New York or L.A., and weve yet to see local coppers at this bright caf, the doughnuts served here are tasty, if a little on the small side. You wont find any jelly or cream filled pastries at Crazy Donuts either, but the chocolate, raspberry, lemon, pistachio and other tasty toppings are definitely worth a try. You can take them with you in a box or bag or have a seat at a half dozen colourful tables that look like they were nicked from a kindergarten. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. SW
Crazy Donuts C-4, Barona 28, tel. (+371) 28 12 38 88,
NEW
Coffee & Cake

Bonra (Bonheur) B-4, Blaumaa 12a, tel. (+371) 67
28 33 43. This trendy, yet nostalgic French-style caf and vintage fashion shop is extremely poplar with well-dressed, well-heeled women over the age of 30. Its intentionally shabby walls and their crumbling plaster are adorned with black and white photos of Bonras (bonheur: happiness in French) muse - Coco Chanel. Order pricey, yet delicious cakes, biscuits, coffee, tea, wine or spirits while listening to soothing jazz. If you get bored you can always play a game of scrabble, pick up a book from its library or browse through its elegant used clothing that hangs from old wrought iron bed stands. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. AS
Caif Cafe H-2, u 16, www.caifcafe.lv. Enjoy lattes, cappuccinos, frappes, macchiatos and plenty of other hot and cold coffee drinks in four sizes right on the corner of Cathedral Square or to take away. You can also order pre-packaged sandwiches and salads as well as plenty of sweets and pastries from macaroons and muffins to brownies, cheesecake and croissants. The simple purple and brown interior is reminiscent of many other large coffee chain outlets around the world. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. AW Riga In Your Pocket
Muffins and More B-4, ertrdes 9, tel. (+371) 28 36 76 71, www.muffinsandmore.lv. This tiny white caf offers some soups, some stuffed baguettes and dozens of soft, delicious American-style muffins that melt in your mouth. Try traditional blueberry, cranberry, raspberry and chocolate muffins or taste one of their cream-filled concoctions or cupcakes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. ASW Ze Donats F-3, Valdemra 18, tel. (+371) 67 33 23 31, www.zedonats.lv. Not quite Dunkin Donuts, but pretty darn close. This stylish brown and white doughnut shop offers friendly wait staff, free wireless internet access and even a chillout room with couches and a flat screen TV, not to mention delicious doughnuts. Chow down on Boston creams, glazed and dozens of other sweet concoctions. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. SW www.riga.inyourpocket.com
32
RESTAUrANTS
Georgian
44, www.restaurant-pirosmani.lv. Named after one of Georgias most revered painters, Niko Pirosmani, this rustically decorated restaurant located in a renovated warehouse beyond the Central Market also displays several reproductions of the starving artists colourful paintings of bearded men in wool hats feasting. The food is delicious and authentic from the savoury lamb stew to the hinkali (spicy meat dumplings), which are each nearly the size of a fist. The mountain nations best wines are also on offer, but you might want to order a whole bottle, and some traditional bread, as the chefs take their time preparing each meal. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 10)
Pirosmani D-4, Maskavas 6, tel. (+371) 67 21 52
Pizza
Charlie Pizza H-2, u 19, tel. (+371) 27 05 19 16, www.charliepizza.lv. Although Charlie Pizza is a large Baltic chain of inexpensive pizzerias where one might expect to see teenage wait staff in silly, degrading costumes, a step inside makes one feel as if theyve just entered an exclusive Moscow nightclub decked out in purple crushed velvet seats, black Venetian-style glass chandeliers, a shiny silver ceiling and faux Ionic columns, not to mention a few flat screen TVs. You can take your pick of dozens of pizzas and calzones, some of which are incredibly cheap, or try a main course of pasta, schnitzels or steaks. Cocktails are also available as well as some affordable local beers like Lplsis. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (5 - 9) AS Small Pizza H-3, Merea 17/19, tel. (+371) 25 44
58 85, www.smallpizza.lv. The name is actually a bit of a misnomer as you can order 32 and 45cm thin crust pizzas here in addition to small pizzas, not to mention a tasty selection of sandwiches served on freshly baked focaccia bread. Some snack food is available too including the Italian missile, which is basically a hotdog baked inside a roll with tomato sauce and cheese. The dance music will probably annoy you if youre over the age of 30, but as fast food places go, we have to admit that were fairly impressed with Small Pizza. The bright interior will no doubt also appeal to the younger generation as will the affordable prices. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (2 - 4) ASW
Ice cream & Frozen yoghurt

Yo Yo C-4, Barona 10, tel. (+371) 67 21 30 47, www. yoyofrozenyoghurt.com. Rigas first frozen yoghurt shop is always crammed with teenagers and families with young children as well as health conscious ladies looking for a lower calorie substitute for ice cream. Pick up a paper bowl and man the yoghurt taps yourself pouring in as much frozen goop as you like with flavours like pistachio, pineapple, blackberry and many others. Although we thought that the multi-coloured delicacies tasted much the same and a bit too sour for our tastes, you can drown them in a deluge of toppings from hot chocolate and strawberry jam to an endless amount of nuts, sprinkles and gummy candies. Your cup is then weighed to determine the price and you can take it with you or enjoy it in the pink and lime green interior. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. Also at C-2, zenes 5 (Olympia Shopping Centre). (2 - 3) ASW
Riga In Your Pocket
RESTAUrANTS
33
Indian
Indian Raja I-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 32 40,
www.indianraja.lv. All of the dishes served here are so veritably Indian, its almost overwhelming. This is hardly Baltic-modified cuisine, which is why the bill wont be small, but it will reflect one of the best dining investments in the city. Although many of them have Indo European roots, most locals still shy away, which means you, expats and tourists, will have the peaceful interior and its views of St.Peters Church all to yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 14) AS
Indian Tikka House (Paddy Whelans) I-2, Grcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, paddy@pub. lv, www.pub.lv. Its location inside Rigas landmark Irish pub may seem strange at first, but there might just be a spark of genius here. Who wouldnt want to watch a football match with a cold beer and a chicken tikka masala with a side of freshly baked naan? Start with mouth-watering onion bhajias, pakoras and samosas and move on to classic Indian main dishes cooked in a real tandoor. Indian food is served during the hours that we have listed as opening times. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (6 - 10) AXS
C.U.T. C-4, Elizabetes 73 (Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 78 55 77, www.restaurantcut. lv. This upmarket restaurant located on the ground floor of the Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel specialises in international cuisine from classic bouillabaisse and pasta dishes to home-smoked duck breast with plum chutney and grilled beef tenderloin. Naturally, all of this can be enjoyed during the summer months in its fantastic open courtyard, but during the winter you can also just have a beer or a creative cocktail at its bar. C.U.T. also prides itself on its wine list not to mention its daily breakfast buffet for 8 - 17 from 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9 - 14) AW
Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 11, www.restaurantesplanade.lv. Start with the pepper seared beef carpaccio with Parmesan cheese and truffle emulsion and move on to delicious mains as diverse as red wine braised duck leg and mustard glazed pork chop with roasted vegetables. All-youcan-eat breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets are also available for 15, 11 and 20, respectively. You can start your day early as the breakfast buffet is served from 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. If you have children with you then drop them off in the kids game room. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (11 - 18) TAW
Esplande F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel
International
www.astorrigahotel.lv. Located in an historic, beautifully restored 19th-century building that was once used by the University of Latvia, Astor offers fantastic views of Bastion Hill Park across the street as well as refined Latvian cuisine created with local ingredients including eel and perch from Latvias rivers and lakes, artisanal cheeses from the town of Madona and seasonal treats like forest mushrooms. Naturally, fine wines and spirits are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. AW
Astor H-2, Z.A.Meierovica 12, tel. (+371) 20 61 01 11,
NEW
A new look for In Your Pocket

Never a publish er to rest on our laurels, we have spen t th e past few months hunkered down in frenzied activity readying a brand new look for In Your Pocket. Yes, courtesy of a crack team of top d esi gners, your favourite city guides have had a bit of a makeover; we will be rolling out the new design during the first part of 2014. Many of the changes we have made are a result of the many comments we have had from readers over the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts with us about how the guides can be improved. As such, the new look is a welcome change that brings renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our award -winning publications. Look out for the new-look In Your Pocket soon.
Colombo A-3, Katrnas dambis 27 (Karavella Hotel

- 12th floor), tel. (+371) 67 32 31 30, www.hotelkaravella.lv. Located on the 12th floor of the recently refurbished Karavella Hotel near the Port of Riga, Colombo offers refined international favourites like duck breast with grilled asparagus as well as some cheaper pastas and vegetarian dishes, not to mention unique views of the city centre, old town and the River Daugava. Well-dressed wait staff don white gloves while serving you tasty cuisine in an elegant atmosphere of brown and beige colours and candles on each table. People who enjoy an occasional cigarette or cigar will also be happy to know that two separate smoking rooms are also available. Take tram N5 or 9 to the Ptersalas iela stop and walk north up Katrnas to the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (15) PAXW
34
RESTAUrANTS
Garage (Demokrtisks vna brs) C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 26 62 88 33, www. vinabars.lv. This modern grey space with cement floors below and steel beams overhead would truly be reminiscent of a garage were it not for the central open plan cooking island that also houses bottles of wine and oysters on ice. The simple, yet refined menu varies depending on the time of day: breakfast, lunch, aperitif hour or dinner. The staff are super friendly and jazz and world music usually accompany your dining experience. Reservations recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (7 - 14) A
koyarestaurant.com. What was once a derelict storage shed is now one of Rigas hottest places to have a meal or a late night cocktail on the water. Although hard to find for all but the most intrepid of travellers, its worth the effort to find this stylish restaurant that offers incredible views of the yacht marina, ferry terminal and Old Riga in the distance. Inside youll find concrete floors, timber ceilings and an open-plan kitchen hidden above the bar. The international cuisine is quite good, albeit pricey, but most people just come to enjoy the ambience of one of the citys best outdoor terraces and its excellent weekend brunch. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (9 - 16) A 45, makoniscoffee.lv. Although weve been a fan of this tiny Old Riga coffee shop since it opened, Mkonis has expanded to include a cosy restaurant. Just take the spiral staircase to the second floor to find an impressive designer interior where nearly everything is for sale including the converted bathtub couches, the unusual lamps and the Latvian-style farm implement tables. Delicious international lunch and dinner dishes are prepared in an open plan kitchen in the corner, but the Cloud is also a good place to have a great breakfast such as gourmet pancakes or a perfectly poached egg. Jazz music provides the prefect soundtrack for a tasty meal and you can even see Riga Cathedrals imposing spire through its windows. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (4 - 10) JAW
Mkonis (Cloud) I-1, Palasta 7, tel. (+371) 29 76 54
NEW
KOYA B-2, Andrejostas 4, tel. (+371) 27 75 72 55, www.
this restaurant in a quiet residential neighbourhood of the city centre. The menu covers a wide variety of international dishes from lamb chops and steaks to a few vegetarian favourites as well as soups and salads and even a separate breakfast menu. The service is polite and attentive and the interior is a mix of greyish tones, exposed brick and light wood furniture, but bear in mind that the cuisine leans toward the nouvelle end of the spectrum, so serving sizes are on the small side. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Fri 09:30 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 15) AW
Lapas B-4, Skolas 22, tel. (+371) 67 28 46 47. Youll find
NEW
Sokrats (Socrates) B-3, Elizabetes 21 (Monika Centrum Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 03 19 17, www.centrumhotels.com. Just look for the peach-coloured neo-Gothic building that looks like a castle to find this hotel restaurant serving a variety of international cuisine from upmarket versions of simple dishes like fish and chips to mussels in curry coconut milk sauce. You can peruse the quotes of famous philosophers on the walls while you sip a pinot noir from their extensive wine list. Breakfast is served 07:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 11:00. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (7 - 14) AW
78/(+371) 80 00 90 80, www.vairaksaules.lv. The sleek, yet warm and cosy interior of this restaurant chain is cutting edge, the service is genuinely friendly and the food is fantastic. You can choose from two separate menus, one that specialises in Italian and international cuisine like pizzas, homemade pastas, seafood and even vegetarian dishes, and another that lists a variety of Asian specialities from sushi and sashimi to tasty stir fries and noodle dishes. The restaurant has two different entrances, but the space on the left also provides a kids play area for the little ones. A childrens menu is available as well as a great daily special. QOpen 09:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12) TAS
Vairk Saules C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28
New Years Eve

In recent years Riga has become an increasingly popular destination for New Years celebrations. Many of these extra tourists at the end of December hail from St. Petersburg and Moscow, because Russians have lengthy holidays at this time of the year, Riga is fairly close and relatively cheap and, of course, most Latvians have at least a rudimentary command of the Russian language. Unfortunately, this also means that restaurants and pubs are packed on December 31 and you will have a hard time getting a table anywhere without a reservation. Lots of restaurants also throw expensive parties that include a meal, a glass of sparkling wine and entertainment in the form of a local crooner, but for some reason they tend to sell out quickly. Your best bet is to try to make a reservation or to skip eating and drinking establishments in Old Riga entirely. That said, you should be able to grab a drink at a pub and you can also attend the free party (23:00 - 02:00) at I-1, 11.novembra krastmala next to the river, which will include a concert, DJs, food and drink stalls and fireworks at midnight. It also might interest you to know that all public transport will be free of charge on December 31 and January1.
Viesistaba Vintage C-4, Blaumaa 10, tel. (+371) 27
09 03 59, www.viesistaba.lv. Located next to the Blaumaa iela entrance of the Galleria Riga shopping centre, this unusual concept caf serves breakfast from 08:00 - 12:00, lunch and desserts from 12:00 - 17:00 and dinner until closing. You can expect a stylish yellow and grey interior with hardwood floors and a small menu of refined international cuisine. The Guest Room also specialises in wine, which is on display in the corner, and it organises a variety of catering seminars from time to time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (6 - 12) AW
Coming soon
Academy H-2, Z.A.Meierovica 12, tel. (+371) 20 61 01 11, www.astorrigahotel.lv. Located in an historic, beautifully restored 19th-century building that was once used by the University of Latvia, this aptly named upmarket restaurant promises to be a highlight of the Riga dining scene once it opens in the beginning of December. The walls will include original art work created especially for the restaurant by renowned Latvian artists and the refined cuisine will reflect the creativity of the head chef. You can expect balanced, set meals designed to stimulate your taste buds in a deliberate, yet gradual manner. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. A
Riga In Your Pocket
RESTAUrANTS
35
Irish
06, www.moloneyspub.com. You can expect plenty of space, hardwood floors, Irish decorations and lots of foreign and domestic brews on draught from Guinness and Kilkenny to Leffe and local Madonas as well as a full menu of pub food from big burgers to a big Irish breakfast for under 5Ls. A digital jukebox hangs from a wall should you crave your favourite tunes in between matches and live music, a happy hour and loads of cheap drink specials are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (7 - 10) AEX
Italian
floor), tel. (+371) 67 28 83 25, www.cirospomodoro.lv. Although the formal atmosphere and modern surroundings put one in mind of an upmarket venue, Ciros actually offers a simple menu of Italian classics from veal scallopini, chicken Alfredo and penne alla vodka to dozens of thin crust pizzas for affordable prices. The excellent views are also a bonus and if you sit in the far corner you can see lots of photos of what appears to be Ciro himself with loads of Hollywood stars. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (6 - 12) E
Moloneys Pub H-2, Vgnera 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 87
Ciros Pomodoro C-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga - 7th
Paddy Whelans Irish Pub & Spor ts Bar I-2,
Grcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, paddy@pub.lv, www.pub.lv. Since its opening in 1995, Rigas first Irish pub has been an expat favourite. With a wide variety of foreign and domestic beers on draught, a classic Hibernian interior and more flat screen TVs showing live sports than you can shake a shillelagh at, Paddys has loads to offer a thirsty football fan. In addition to its usual offering of pub grub, a new menu of authentic Indian cuisine has been added to its repertoire for those craving a delicious chicken tikka masala or maybe a samosa starter. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00. (4 - 10) AEXS
Da Sergio B-5, Trbatas 65 (entrance from Matsa), tel. (+371) 67 31 27 77, www.dasergio.lv. Although Italian cuisine in Riga has come a long way since the days of spaghetti covered in ketchup, many restaurants still lack atmosphere. This establishment not only offers a full menu of authentic Italian dishes and dozens of delicious pizzas, its interior is warm and, whats the word Mediterranean. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 20) A Olive Oil Trading Co H-1, Pils laukums 4 - 3, tel. (+371)
29 53 35 23, www.olive-oil.lv. This fabulous Italian restaurant on Castle Square offers a simple and cosy, yet somehow elegant interior that consists of checked tablecloths, chandeliers, lots of fresh flowers and plenty of paintings and photos including a black and white of Godfather Brando - Hollywoods most famous olive oil merchant. You can enjoy a wide selection of antipasti as well as some pasta and risotto dishes and roughly half a dozen pizzas not to mention main courses like tuna fillet with asparagus. Finally, its cheap two-course business lunch with water, freshly baked bread and olives is an offer you simply cant refuse! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (7 - 14) PJAW
The Trinity Bar C-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga - 7th floor), tel. (+371) 67 28 60 25, www.thetrinity.lv. Rigas only upmarket Irish pub and restaurant not only serves the usual pub food like burgers and wings, but also mussels and New Zealand rack of lamb. Naturally, classic dishes like beef stew and fish and chips are also on the menu, but unfortunately the Irish breakfast is only served until 12:00. If youre not in time for a fry up, console yourself with a Smithwicks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (7 - 15) AX www.riga.inyourpocket.com
36
RESTAUrANTS
Japanese
tel. (+371) 67 22 38 55, www.planetasushi.lv. Although this modern Japanese restaurant is a good choice for dinner, youd be mad not to take advantage of its excellent daytime specials that include a wide variety of bento and dim sum lunches with tea or coffee for only 7. You can also create your own meal by mixing and matching different cuisine or just stick with the sushi and sashimi, which can be enjoyed on the ground floor or upstairs where diners are afforded great views of Cathedral Square. Sake cocktails and single malt Japanese whiskey are also available, but the authentic lounge music seems like a step too far. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (7 - 15) JAW
Planeta Sushi I-2, u 16 (entrance from Tirgou),
Krasta 76, tel. (+371) 67 50 44 20, www.lido.lv. If Paul Bunyon built a log cabin in Latvia it would look like this! Mr. irsons of the LIDO Empire has outdone himself with the biggest buffet of home cookin this country has ever seen. Enter the tremendous cellar and discover another restaurant with two bars which serve beer brewed on the premises. Weekends are family days with various activities for the kids including in-line skating and theres live singing and dancing every night from 19:00. Take bus N12 from the train station directly or tram N3, 7 or 9 to the Atptas centrs LIDO stop and walk about 5 - 10 minutes in the direction of the huge windmill. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4 - 7) TES
LIDO atptas centrs (LIDO Recreation Centre)
LIDO Dzirnavas (The Mill) C-4, Dzirnavu 76, tel. (+371)
Latin American
Monhe Negro I-2, Kalju 23, tel. (+371) 67 21 41 37, www.monhenegro.lv. One of Rigas most colourful Art Nouveau buildings is the unlikely home of a caf/restaurant that specialises in tasty cuisine from the length and breadth of the Spanish-speaking world. Order anything from seafood like fried sardines, Veracruz red snapper and dorado to tapas platters, enchiladas, paella and fajitas or an Argentine steak for the truly famished. Mohne Negro is also good for a casual coffee with a crema Catalana or you can take advantage of its inexpensive business lunch on weekdays. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 14) JA
67 28 62 04, www.lido.lv. Alus stas sister restaurant is similar, but bigger, better and even fuller of happy Latvians satisfying their hunger pangs. The huge buffet spans a number of rooms and even makes those who just had lunch drool. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (4 - 7) AS
Latvian
371 J-3, Rgas Centrltirgus, tel. (+371) 29 72 21 72,
371cafe.lv. Located in a two-storey building between the dairy and grocery pavilions, this stylish bistro and so-called culture space serves only fresh local ingredients sold in the surrounding market, which are prepared by American-Latvian chef Krlis Celms and his culinary team. If youd like to try contemporary Latvian cuisine made with the best local meat, fish and poultry that can be found then take a look at the affordable specials listed on the blackboard above the open-plan kitchen. Naturally, beer, wine and coffee are also available as well as desserts. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (4 - 8) A
LIDO Spice Lielirbes 29 (Spice shopping centre), tel. (+371) 67 60 92 02, www.lido.lv. As with most LIDO Latvian fast food restaurants, you have to see this one to believe it. All of the usual local foods are on offer as well as the ubiquitous faux ethnographic design elements, but walk behind the main cafeteria area and discover a childrens paradise. A nearly life-sized two-storey castle surrounded by an electric go-cart track is guaranteed to cure any child of ADD, if only for a few hours. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7) AS LIDO Vrmantis C-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. (+371) 67 28 62 89, www.lido.lv. A great place to eat a huge meal for cheap, this restaurant looks like medieval Europe and interwar Latvia collided and produced a unique space decorated with ethnic symbols, stone and stained glass. Bop about to local umm-paa-paa music and help yourself to Baltic cuisine. When it gets crowded at lunch time, it also opens the cellar to provide more space. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7) AS Meln Bite (Black Bee) I-3, Audju 13, tel. (+371)
NEW
Alus arsenls H-1, Pils laukums 4 (entrance from
Arsenla), tel. (+371) 67 32 26 75, www.alus-arsenals. lv. This classic brick cellar just off of Castle Square offers a unique interior of low vaulted ceilings adorned with painted fall foliage, stained glass lamps and wooden tables, benches and chairs. The Beer Arsenal specialises in huge servings of Latvian fare like metre-long sausages, beef tongue salad, pigs ears stuffed with caraway cheese and its signature oven baked pork leg for two served on a wooden platter with a flaming torch. Naturally, a good selection of beer is also on offer including its own light and dark microbrews. Cheap daily specials under 5 are a bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12) AX RC
67 13 06 74, www.melnabite.lv. Although the Black Bee is located on the ground floor of a stylish design hotel in Old Riga, its impressive menu of Latvian and international dishes is surprisingly affordable and the serving sizes are just the way locals like them - big! Join the hive and take a seat next to bee-covered wallpaper underneath unique lamps that look like theyre growing out of the ceiling. Although you can enjoy anything from blood sausage to catfish fillets, we highly recommend the pork knuckle with sour kraut and potatoes thats served on a wooden platter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. JAW
Food & Curio bazaar

Buy anything from fresh seasonal produce and local delicasies like rye bread baked on maple leaves to antiques, vintage clothing and Soviet memorabilia at the Berga Bazrs open market twice every month. You can also taste delicious organic food prepared by chefs from some of Rigas best restaurants. Visit the bazaar from 09:00 - 15:00 at Elizabetes 83/85 every second and fourth Saturday of the month.
www.folkklubs.lv. One of Rigas largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants, Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend into the depths of this huge space to find a great selection of affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional cuisine from kotletes (a type of meatball) and grey peas with bacon to hard-to-find country dishes like pork and pearl barley stew. Although its a favourite among frugal students, its also popular with anyone who appreciates good food, drink and music under medieval brick vaulted ceilings. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Wed 12:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 07:00, Sat 14:00 - 07:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. (3 - 7) AE
Folk Club Ala I-2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14,
Riga In Your Pocket
38
RESTAUrANTS
New Zealand
kiwibar.lv. Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the Latvian capital. Friendly staff pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety of pub food from burgers, breakfasts and meat pies to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. (5 - 10) JAW
Kiwi Bar I-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17, www.
Tvocis Vaa H-2, Smilu 16, tel. (+371) 27 88 69 63. Walk into this upmarket Russian restaurant and youll feel like youve strolled onto the set of Doctor Zhivago before the revolution brought down the aristocracy. Uncle Vanyas elegant interior is loaded with shelves crammed full of old books, ceramic figurines and other antiques and the walls are covered in tsarist-era black and white photos and reproductions of classic Russian paintings. The menu offers modern versions of traditional Slavic cuisine presented in a unique way. You can also order homemade spirits served in chilled glasses or carafes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (10 - 20) A Traktieris B-4, Antonijas 8, tel. (+371) 67 33 24 55, www.traktir.lv. On the political stage, Russo - Latvian relations may not be what one would call warm, but this authentic restaurant is popular with Slavs and Balts alike. Each table is topped with an antique samovar, the wait staff wear traditional dress and the menu includes dishes from the entire breadth of Mother Russia. Cap it off with one of their flavoured vodkas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12) AE
Organic
70, www.ecocatering.lv. This affordable organic weekday buffet is a hit with locals. Its unusual location in what looks like a forlorn factory opposite the Vidzeme Market also lends this place a hip, speakeasy atmosphere as youll have to navigate some stairs and hallways to find it. Inside youll discover a tempting buffet of organic starters, main courses and desserts that have all been made with locally produced ingredients like free-range chickens and organic vegetables. QOpen 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. LW
EcoCatering Telpa B-5, Matsa 8, tel. (+371) 20 37 11
Seafood
Gastronome C-4, Brvbas 31 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 15 20 80, www.gastronome.lv. If youre looking for the ultimate seafood experience in Riga and youre ready to spare no expense then look no further than this elegant upmarket restaurant. You can take a seat at the raw bar and choose from a staggering number of fresh oysters and other delicacies or move on to the restaurant where you can pick your own lobster or enjoy Chilean sea bass, jumbo Senegalese prawns, scallops and other delights grilled to perfection. Naturally, an excellent selection of wine and spirits is also available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15 - 25) A
Russian
LIDO Krievu Sta engaraga 3, tel. (+371) 67 13 49 30, www.lido.lv. The LIDO people have built a massive Russian restaurant just off of Maskavas (Moscow Street) with colourful interior of elaborately painted oak beams and hanging matroshka dolls. All of the classic staples such as dumplings and borscht are available. Take trams N7 to the engaraga iela stop. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7)
Riga In Your Pocket
RESTAUrANTS
39
Sites un dilltes (Herring & Dill) J-3, Centrltirgus

3, tel. (+371) 29 61 40 12. No longer solely the domain of ancient gold-toothed women in hair nets and dropping pantyhose, the fish pavilion of the Riga Central Market is now home to a refined little eatery that specialises in whatever creatures of the sea are fresh that day. Order a Valmiermuia brew and fish and chips and watch the mayhem unfold beyond the confines of this peaceful oasis. Seafood soup, platters and salads are also available to enjoy on the spot or to take away. Its a little pricey for the market, but still a welcome addition. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. (7 - 10) AS
South African
44 37, www.kilimanjaro.lv. Although African culture and cuisine couldnt be more different from the lifestyle and cooking found in the Latvian capital, Kilimanjaro is a brave attempt to bring some sunshine from that exotic continent to Riga. The refined interior of beige walls and cushioned wicker chairs are spruced up with original African art including carved wooden statues and masks as well as colourful paintings. In case youre wondering, you wont have to eat with your hands here as is the custom in East Africa. This place serves exquisite South African-style cuisine from seafood and beef to more unusual dishes like grilled ostrich fillet, Nile perch and even an expensive crocodile steak best enjoyed with a tasty glass of Pinotage. The tables by the windows offer views of the Riga Canal and Opera House.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. (14 - 22) A RC
Kilimanjaro H-3, Raia bulvris 21, tel. (+371) 27 72
Shashlik joints
aliki Mangaos Mores 22, tel. (+371) 67 39 52
57. The owners of this roadside tavern are so confident in the quality of their shashliks that they chose a remote location on the far end of Meaparks. Order a huge skewer of meat and an Uavas draught and then choose your side dishes: chopped onions, tomatoes and chives and freshly baked Armenian bread. Its that simple. Take tram N11 to the Meaparks stop and walk to the song festival grounds. Then walk northwest on Ostas prospekts to Mores. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (5 - 8)
Spanish
Madride B-4, Hanzas 2A, tel. (+371) 67 33 86 32. If youre envisioning an upmarket Madrid restaurant where the suckling pig is so soft the maitre d can cut it with a plate then think again. This cosy neighbourhood caf serves tasty peasant food for the common man, which is delivered to your table by its Spanish chef. You can sample dozens of olive, cheese, stuffed pepper and chorizo tapas or try the days specials, which wont disappoint. The inexpensive Csu beer on draught is almost tempting, but we recommend the Kalimotxo (iced red wine and cola) or Kalimotxo blanco (iced white wine and Sprite), which the waitress assured us was a student favourite. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 7) December 2013 - January 2014
Soup
Tikai karotes (Only Spoons) C-2, zenes 5, tel.
(+371) 67 06 56 54, www.karotes.lv. Not surprisingly, Only Spoons only serves soup. Order anything from goulash and borsch to tomato or meatball soup in this funky green and red cafeteria. You can also try dessert soups, coffee, smoothies and non-alcoholic cocktails such as virgin mojitos and pina coladas. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (5) S
40
RESTAUrANTS
Steak houses
67 22 56 99, www.steikuhaoss.lv. Europeans often make fun of Americans but for some reason they just cant get enough of their culture. If you like thick, juicy steaks with giant Idaho baked potatoes, wait staff in what look like line dancing outfits, then walk through the swinging saloon doors and get ready for a feast. The servings are impressive, but bear in mind that the prices are also Texas-sized. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Also on H-2, Meistaru 25, tel. (+371) 67 22 24 19. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00; C-4, Trbatas 41/43. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (14 - 22) AE
Ukrainian
Dipro F-2, Alunna 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 28 58, www. dnipro.lv. This authentic restaurant is full of elaborate woodcarvings and intricate works of colourful embroidery for which the Ukrainians are so justly renowned. Enjoy delicious vareniki (potato dumplings), hearty borscht and, of course, that ultimate staple of Cossack cuisine - chicken Kiev. A two-course lunch special can be had for just under 5 and all soup is served with rye bread and a dish of flavoured lard. Order at the bar and the costumed female staff will bring your food to your table. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (3 - 7) A
Steiku Haoss (Steak Chaos) I-2, Audju 2, tel. (+371)
Teatime
Kama G-1, Jkaba 26/28, tel. (+371) 67 32 30 07.
This laidback tea house isnt really the place to get your daily infusion of Early Grey or English breakfast before heading off to work. Kama takes its tea very seriously. Take your pick of dozens of Japanese, Chinese, Indian, South American and Latvian country teas in this funky room that smells of incense. Decorated with mismatched, yet comfortable furniture including couches and lots of pillows, not to mention Asian and African wood carvings, its a relaxing place to enjoy a warm drink and some Eastern snacks while playing a board game with friends or surfing the web. The enthusiastic young man behind the bar explained the whole process of creating a great pot of tea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. W
Upmarket
Aqua Luna B-2, Andrejostas 4, tel. (+371) 67 65 09 22,
www.aqualuna.lv. The latest hotspot to open on the trendy Andrejsala waterfront is the appropriately named Aqua Luna. Just look for the stylish white box and its huge summer terrace and lounge on the waters edge. The international cuisine is superb, including the oysters and the stewed Irish beef cheek that we tried. The service is generally attentive and musicians and DJs keep affluent, well-dressed Rigans entertained in the evenings. If youre looking for refined dining with great views then you can hardly do better than this place, but bear in mind that smoking (both hookahs and cigarettes) is allowed on the terrace and most locals like to light up. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (14 - 25) ALEW
Tex-Mex
Klondaika C-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66, www.klondaika.lv. The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer, head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled the zelta raktuves (gold mines), go up one level to the saloon-style restaurant or down to the bar that only closes for two hours each morning. The Tex-Mex food is a few degrees shy of authentic, but its tasty, filling and relatively cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00. Bar open 09:00 - 07:00. (5 - 9) AXW
Benjamins C-4, Barona 12 (Europa Royale Riga Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 07 94 44. Named after the famous tycoon who built the landmark building in which the restaurant is housed, Benjamins offers five fabulous rooms - one of which was used by the illustrious magnate as a private study. Dine on delicious international cuisine surrounded by 19th-century opulence in the form of original stained glass windows, intricate parquet floors, stunning fireplaces and priceless chandeliers. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14 - 20) AE Bergs Restaurant C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.hotelbergs.lv. Possibly the best restaurant in Riga, Bergs never disappoints. With a stylish interior that looks like it was ripped out of the pages of Architectural Digest and an ever-changing menu of international fusion and nouvelle Latvian cuisine that will satisfy even the most demanding palates, its guaranteed to make your fine dining experience a memorable one. Special three- and five-course meals prepared by chefs Nauris Jakusko and Reinis Stalbovs are also available. Breakfast is served daily from 07:30 - 11:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (17 - 26) AW
Thai
Bangkok E-3, Mkusalas 27, tel. (+371) 27 02 51 44,
NEW
www.bangkok.lv. Although this two-storey brick building on the left bank of the River Daugava may be a long way from the Khao San Road, its incredibly cheap all-you-can-eat breakfast and lunch buffets keep local office workers in the area coming back for more. That said, the food in the stainless steel trays is far from authentic, so youre probably better off ordering a pad Thai or a tom yum soup from the menu, which are a little better, but still not exactly the real deal. Apart from a few generic photos of bamboo and flowers, the interior isnt what one would call noteworthy. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. (4 - 8) ALS
Vegetarian
MiiT B/C-4, Lpla 10, tel. (+371) 29 17 88 57, www.miit.lv. Although its slogan coffee, bikes, food is certainly to the point, it neglects to inform you that on weekdays MiiT is also a vegetarian/vegan bistro thats incredibly popular with local hipsters and affluent arty types. For under 5 will get you a tasty soup and a main course, but youll have to pay extra for the excellent coffee, the mouthwatering brownies or the Valmiermuias and Bryuvers brews. The interior is simple, yet chic, and you can also have your bicycle repaired in the shop behind the bar. Naturally, bike parking is available in the courtyard behind the historic wooden building. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Fri 08:30 - 04:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (5) ASW
Kotai I-2, Kau 2 (entrance from Kungu), tel. (+371)
67 75 55 50, www.kotai.lv. We wouldnt describe Kotai as a proper sit-down restaurant. The small menu of steamed rice dishes and soups was difficult to fathom, even with the help of the friendly wait staff, so we just trusted their recommendation and ordered the lunch special. The iced coffee was also tasty and we decided to stay a little longer as Hangover II was being screened on the TV as we ate. Kotai also delivers to addresses in Old Riga. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6) AVS
Riga In Your Pocket
RESTAUrANTS
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Bibliotka No 1 Restorns G-3, Trbatas 2, tel.
(+371) 20 22 50 00, www.restoransbiblioteka.lv. If youre looking for refined European cuisine in an elegant, yet modern setting on two floors with fantastic views of Vrmanes Park, there is no better option than Library No.1. The interior is decorated with shelves full of books, an entire wall of wine, funky booths framed by lots of miniature pillows, wooden columns and huge overhead lamps. The menu is seasonal and often includes anything from scallops and oysters to nouvelle Latvian cuisine. Home-baked bread is another bonus as is the local Valmiermuia brew on draught. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (15 - 26) A
Neiburgs I-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55
44, www.neiburgs.com. One of Rigas finest art nouveau buildings is home to a stylish, upmarket restaurant offering both international and Latvian-style cuisine for surprisingly reasonable prices. Inside youll find grey walls covered by periodic art exhibitions, light parquet floors and spider-like chandeliers made from black reading lamps. Order salads, pasta, Australian steaks, Scottish salmon, local trout, huge turkey burgers or affordable lunch specials in a refined setting. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (8 - 15) A
HEs I-2, Mrstau 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 95 45, www. hegroup.lv. One of Rigas top chefs has opened his most ambitious endeavour to date in the heart of Old Rigas nightlife district on Grcinieku iela. The interior is minimalist with white walls, polished concrete floors and light wood furniture surrounding a large central bar. The small menu of international cuisine is fresh and seasonal and even lists the local farms from which the meat and vegetables were acquired. Unfortunately, the tempting lamb and venison werent available when we dropped by, but the free range chicken and local beef dishes were delicious. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (9 - 15) AW La Boheme F-2, Alunna 2a, tel. (+371) 67 32 19 38,
www.laboheme.lv. La Boheme has a little something for everyone. Enjoy light food like salads, soups and pastas for more affordable prices or try delicious upmarket cuisine like sous-vide cooked lamb rump steak with seasonal beluga lentils and rosemary-red wine sauce. The wine selection is also commendable. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (8 - 20) A
NEW
Pinot I-2, Grcinieku 26, tel. (+371) 67 22 56 16, www.pinot.lv. Pinots incredibly stylish interior is divided into separate sections: the main hall on the ground floor with views of the street outside, a more intimate setting upstairs next to a wall decorated with wine bottles, a banquet area behind the bar and a cosy lounge upstairs. Dine on delicious French and Italian inspired dishes from Chilean sea bass and pan seared scallops to Charlois beef entrecote while the chefs work their magic behind a glass partition at the back of the restaurant. A wine cellar including over 150 vintages is manned by two somelliers. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (14 - 25) PAEW
tel. (+371) 67 09 33 33, www.restaurantpiramida.lv. This elegant restaurant housed in a glass pyramid has been dubbed the little Louvre by the local press. Its impressive international menu is guaranteed to satisfy even the most demanding gourmet. Breakfast buffet from 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00 for 18; two- and three-course business lunch weekdays from 12:00 - 15:00 for 10 and 14, respectively. It also offers great views of the park. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12 - 30) AW
Piramda G-3, Reimersa 1 (Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel),
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Rigas nightlife scene has had its ups and downs over the years, but, thankfully, neighbourhood pubs are still thriving and many clubs are once again open until the last paying customer leaves. Sadly many bars still close their doors before midnight on weeknights and some strip clubs and late-night bars are still out to scam tourists, so take those beer goggles off and be vigilant.
Nightlife warning
Riga In Your Pocket has received readers complaints and, in some cases, horror stories about the following places: Alibi - Kalju 51 (Alberta laukums); Ampir Kau iela (Lvu Square); Club Paradise Laipu iela; Bar Bar Dzirnavu 55; Barfly Kalju 14/16; Brilliant Club Blaumaa 9; Lvu krodzi Kau iela (Lvu Square); Radio Bar u 17 (entrance from Zirgu); Shot Bar Grcinieku 1 (entrance from Skru); Vna Sta - Maz Smilu 7.
Bars
Chomsky C-5, Lpla 68. Is this the Delta house? Walk inside Chomsky and you half expect a toga-wearing John Belushi to greet you with a beer and a belch. This old wooden building with its forlorn interior of crumbling walls and furniture on their last legs happens to be a favourite of local hipsters, artists and intellectuals, but if sagging couches and peeling paint doesnt sound too appealing, you can always choose the private courtyard in the summer. An eclectic selection of local underdog brews like Brlis and Ingver Alus is available, but bear in mind that smoking is apparently back in fashion among Rigas bohemians. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Gauja B-5, Trbatas 56, tel. (+371) 67 27 56 62, www. bufetegauja.lv. Step into a Latvian apartment circa 1970. Elvis records crackle on the Hi-Fi while a bohemian bartender grabs liquor bottles from what appears to be someones grandmothers china cabinet. The furniture is also retro as are the Soviet style beer mugs and the antique magazines and books. Try a milky Brenguu or Trvetes brew out on the sidewalk or grab a stool and knock back a cheap vodka shot. In keeping with the communal living theme, space is limited. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Get Smart Caf C-5, Lpla 43/45, tel. (+371) 67 66 31 61. Were it not for the turquoise walls, the movie posters on the bar and the crowd of young hipster types lounging about, one might think that theyve dropped by their grannys place for a cup of tea. Retro furniture, vintage TVs and radios, 1960s and 70s music streamed in from God knows where and fresh flowers give this place and air of decades past. You can get a Bauskas brew, cheap cocktails and even some snacks and salads or drop by for the occasional wine tasting evening. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. JW HHC (Hardcore Hangover Club) I-2, Peldu 21, tel.
(+371) 67 22 47 99, www.hhc.lv. The name says it all. HHC is definitely a good place to nurse a hangover in relative anonymity. Choose from three different varieties of Lplsis beer from dark to light for cheap prices or the more expensive Brenguu microbrew also on draught. You can also order cocktails, play board games, have a smoke in the back room or just hang out with hard-drinking, tattooed goths and bohemians. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. A
Kiwi Bar I-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17, www. kiwibar.lv. Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the Latvian capital. Friendly staff pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety of pub food from burgers, breakfasts and meat pies to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja. Naturally, it's a great place to watch rugby, Aussie rules and even American football.QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. JAW Krogs Aptieka (Pharmacy Bar) H-1, Maz Miesnieku 1, www.krogsaptieka.lv. After presiding over a staple of the Washington DC nightlife scene for several years, AmericanLatvian Kristaps Krsli opened yet another Pharmacy Bar, but this time in the Latvian capital. Medieval brick walls, tables embedded with capsules and pills and painted silhouettes of old-fashioned bottles on two floors are a clever combination of old and new and the perfect backdrop for a night of cocktails and beers. That said, this hip hangout isnt just about imbibing. Two of the citys coolest chefs have also added a small menu of burgers, grill cheese sandwiches and chicken wings to the pharmacys inventory, so you can grab a great meal here every day until 22:00. The bar also provides a smoking courtyard and a free CD jukebox that offers anything from Johnny Cash to the Sex Pistols and Metallica. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. AEX Leningrad I-3, Kalju 54, tel. (+371) 29 91 50 49, www. leningrad.lv. After nearly two decades of runaway capitalism and an economy that has imploded, some Latvians are looking back to the past. A bar with a retro Soviet interior of assorted communist relics and even period furniture is as good a place as any to enjoy a drink. The beer might not be as cheap as it was in Gorbachevs time, but for Old Riga the local brews are certainly affordable. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
e rst and only traditional Latvian folk bar in Latvia
16 local beers on tap Live music & local cuisine

www.folkklubs.lv / +371 20237715
Peldu street 19 , Old Town

Riga In Your Pocket www.riga.inyourpocket.com
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vija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 22, www.radissonblu.com/ latvijahotel-riga. What traveller hasnt spent a little time at a lobby bar out of sheer necessity? Unlike most reception area lounges, the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvijas offers cutting edge design, an impressive variety of cocktails and an excellent menu, so you might linger a little longer than just one drink. Naturally, it also provides great people watching opportunities as the hotel is the largest in Latvia. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. AW
Lobby Bar F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lat-
Omas briljants I-2, Audju 7. The interior is chic and
retro with lots of private niches, old couches, multi-coloured lamps and even a ceramic chandelier above the bar that looks like it was stolen from your grannys living room. The beats emanating from the wallpapered DJ stand are as funky and bohemian as the staff and clientele and you can get a wide variety of cocktails as well as Czech and Latvian brews on draught. Large windows on two sides of this corner building afford patrons great views of passers-by outside, but if you cant get a seat down here then head upstairs for yet another bar, a small dance floor and plenty more places to take a load off. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. J
(+371) 67 21 44 94. Frequented by day by diplomats and embassy staff who work in the Jacobs Barracks, this bar/ restaurant provides a warm, intimate setting a few steep steps from the old city wall. Named after the national drink of Latvia, Balzams offers far more than just potent elixirs. The atmosphere is convivial in the evenings, with well-heeled locals having a good time with cocktails made from the bitter black herbal liquor which is actually better than it sounds when mixed with something else. The black gold known as Guinness is also available. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A
Rgas Balzams H-2, Tora 4 (Jkaba kazarmas), tel.
Rocabilly I-3, Kalju 52, tel. (+371) 67 21 52 70, www. rocabilly.lv. Owned by a local motorcycle club, this bar for hard drinkers and hard rockers serves up an authentic interior of lamps made from saxophones, a cloudy blue sky on the ceiling complete with screaming skulls, neon beer signs and art work that looks like it was created by the same guy who paints the MCs Harleys. A good selection of cheap local beer is available, but dont tell the staff that Rocabilly is misspelled or they might decide to use the baseball bat, the rifle or the WWII-era machine gun hanging from the ceiling.QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. AEW Shot Caf H-2, Tora 4-IIIB (Jkaba kazarmas), tel. (+371) 67 22 41 65, www.shotcafe.lv. This popular cellar bar in the Jacobs Barracks offers a full menu of international food and drink during the day, but its at night that Shot Caf shows its true colours. Packed with a young crowd of arty snowboard types dancing to a variety of alternative and house music, its a great place to go for a long night of short drinks for reasonable prices. Try the apple pie (a shot of vodka and apple juice topped with cinnamon), a local favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. A www.riga.inyourpocket.com
Pieci Vilki (Five Wolves) B-4, Stabu 6, tel. (+371) 29 24 22 26. Owned by a prominent member of a local motorcycle club, Five Wolves is sometimes frequented by local neighbourhood types sipping beers and at other times by hard-looking, hard-drinking leather-clad men with beards. The menu offers a bit of everything including fried eggs and bacon served on red-hot cast iron pans, chicken wings in extra large sizes and steak served just right. Shot takers shouldnt pass up the vodka bottle served in a block of ice. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A Riga In Your Pocket
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Adult entertainment
Jockey Club F-3, Elizabetes 49, tel. (+371) 67 22
88 44, www.jockeyclub.lv. The Scandinavian-owned Jockey Club has provided adult entertainment for Rigas citizens and visitors since the mid-1990s. Naked ladies practice their trade every 20 to 30 minutes, but fully clothed women dance around a pole for your amusement between shows. A fulll stocked bar is of course available, but private dances from incredibly beautiful women seem to be the major draw. An expat favourite. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 14. A www.labi.tev.lv. For nearly 20 years this chain of sex shops has offered private video booths, live strip shows and a huge selection of films, sex toys and other gear to spice up ones love life. Unlike many clubs that are out to rip you off in Riga, Labi provides professional staff and decent prices should you be one of this planets many financially challenged lonely males. Splurge on some live interactive erotic entertainment for around 50 or spend much less on a peep show. Q Open 24hrs. Also at C-4, A. Kalnia 8. Open 24hrs; B-5, Brvbas 98; Lpla 61. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AIDC
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Labi C-5, Lpla 47, tel. (+371) 67 28 61 15,
kums), tel. (+371) 26 41 66 87, www.skabene.lv. You have to understand Latvian to appreciate the clever wordplay used in the name of this Old Riga hipster bar. A skbene is a common garden herb often used in soups, but ska music is also a favourite here and the Mighty Mighty Bosstones dominated the soundtrack the last time we dropped by. Inside youll find a surprisingly spacious bar with three rooms filled with old furniture including couches. You can watch local sports projected on a wall, throw some darts or hang out on the summer terrace on Alberta laukums. Best of all, a tasty Rzeknes brew is dirt cheap! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. E 35, tel. (+371) 28 34 87 16, trisvirilaiva.wordpress.lv. Named after the classic Jerome K. Jerome comic tale, this cosy, neighbourhood bar mainly caters to locals who live in the area, but it also offers a few things that might just lure some Brits away from Old Riga. Order beef Wellington, fish and chips or an English breakfast and drink an incredibly cheap local beer or imported brews like Belhaven Twisted Thistle IPA. If youre still not convinced, it also offers SkySports. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. W RC
SKbene I-3, Alksnja 14 (entrance from Alberta lau-
Trs vri laiv (Three Men in a Boat) C-5, Avotu
Brew pubs
Labietis A-5, Aristda Brina 9A-2, tel. (+371) 29 12 64 97, www.labietis.lv. As we went to press, Labietis was still a work in progress, but even so we were faced with the difficult task of tasting eight delicious craft brews made on the premises from American-style IPAs and English bitters to special beers made with Latvian herbs. The interior is still in the process of being renovated, but the brewery is clearly visible behind a glass partition and you can enjoy a tasty beer at the bar or have them fill a plastic bottle or two for you to take home. If youd like to hang around for a while you can order food from the nearby Fontaine Delisnack. Hard to find, Labietis is located in the courtyard behind the popular club Piens. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. S www.riga.inyourpocket.com December 2013 - January 2014
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Wine bars
Dvine F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 17, www.dvinebar. lv. Banish all images of typical wine bars where scruffy men sit and smoke at wooden tables stained with the ghosts of drinks past. Sleek, modern Dvine is located on the second floor of the cutting-edge glass and metal arrow jutting out of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija. Snack on Spanish tapas, try its gourmet burger or splurge on oysters followed by surf n turf. If youre not hungry you can just sip wine by the glass, half-bottle or bottle, but if youre famished then drop by for its all-you-can-eat tapas evenings on Friday nights. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AW
Clubs
Coyote Fly C-4, Trbatas 2, tel. (+371) 29 43 06 93, www.coyotefly.lv. Housed in the exclusive Vernisa complex in the Vrmanes Park, you pretty much have to be well-heeled, well-dressed and local to gain entrance to this pleasure palace for Rigas elite, which essentially consists of celebrities, TV personalities and the ber-rich. Foreign DJs are often imported from around Europe and its stage is also graced by local musicians, rappers and the like. You can expect a trendy atmosphere, expensive cocktails and Champagne and, of course, incredibly beautiful wait staff, but as a tourist in the Latvian capital, you might not pass its strict face control. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AW Depo (Depot) I-2, Vau 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14, www.klubsdepo.lv. Underground music lovers, hip youth and over the hill travel writers, this is the stop where you get off. Indie groups and DJs from abroad, garage bands and an alternative crowd all co-exist happily in this club, one of the few to sponsor rock, hardcore, heavy metal, punk, reggae and experimental music genres. Watch the bands perform in the basement or just have a beer on the ground floor. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. Admission: concerts 5 - 7. AEX
67 50 60 30, www.larocca.lv. An admission fee buys you a pass to a variety of different clubs within the confines of a converted theatre that still bears the tell-tale signs of its original incarnation such as gilded decorations and ceilings as well as red velvet walls. However, the theatre-goers of yore would doubtless be shocked by the flashing lasers, smoke machines and go-go dancers with glitter-paint shining from their naked thighs. Drinks are reasonably priced and if youre not into techno or Russian pop you can try one of the other mini-clubs inside. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission: 5 - 7. AX
www.tinto.lv. Although this stylish wine bar and caf with merlot coloured couches and a large outdoor terrace offers great views of passers-by on busy Elizabetes iela as well as the twisted bronze statues of the Splendid Palace cinema next door, its tucked away off of the street so you could pass by and never know its there. An early breakfast and refined meat and seafood main courses are certainly tempting as are over 300 specially selected wines and spirits from around the globe. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A
Tinto C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 90 85,
La Rocca Revolution B-5, Brvbas 96, tel. (+371)
Vna Studija B-3, Elizabetes 10, tel. (+371) 67 28
32 05, www.vinastudija.lv. Enjoy a reasonably priced glass, carafe or bottle of wine in this refined, yet relaxed establishment in Rigas art nouveau district. If you cant make up your mind, choose one of the specials on the board, ask one of the knowledgeable staff or trust in the judgement of leading wine critics, whose ratings are published in the menu. Local and world press is also available as well as Mediterranean tapas and for a surcharge you can buy a bottle at its adjoining shop and drink it in the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Also at I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 10 44 30. Open 10:00 - 22:00; C-5, Stabu 30, tel. (+371) 67 27 60 10. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00; all shops open 10:00 - 22:00. AS
Casinos & Gaming halls

Latvian law compels all gamblers to register at each casino they visit, so bring a passport or valid ID. www.klondaika.com. These fun Tex-Mex bars have plenty of food, drink and slot machines and all but the one on Dzirnavu have pool tables. QOpen 09:00 - 07:00. Also at C-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66; C-5, Matsa 43, tel. (+371) 67 27 50 29; I-2, Grcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 68 07. Open 09:00 - 07:00; Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 63 80. Open 09:00 - 05:00. POAW
Nabaklab H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12, www.nabaklab. lv. This hip music club located in a half basement is Rigas best alternative hotspot. You can watch a live band in one hall, dance to DJs in another, relax with a beer at the long bar or join the crowds outside the door for a smoke and a chat. Definitely not the place for techno or pop music fans, this is a bohemian student favourite. Live acts are a mixed bag so one night you might see a local punk rock group and the next night a Polish ska band. Did we mention that its own Nabaklab brew costs less than 2? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission: concerts 1.50 - 5. EX
Klondaika D-4, Merea 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 16 40,
In Your Pocket video guides

In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Weve put together som e ex tensi ve video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. Were not professionals and the videos are definiftely low budget, but youll get an honest, unpolished view of the city. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.
Olympic Voodoo Casino C-4, Brvbas 31 (entrance from Dzirnavu), tel. (+371) 67 82 87 77, www.olympiccasino.com. Located on the ground floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija, its supposedly the biggest casino in the Baltics. A bar and a 24-hour sushi bar are also available. Its other locations specialise in slot machines, but also have 24hour bars. Q Also at C-4, Barona 3, tel. (+371) 26 52 23 20; C-4, Marijas 12, tel. (+371) 26 32 89 49. Open 24hrs. AK Riga In Your Pocket
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Piens (Milk) A-5, Aristida Brina 9, tel. (+371) 66 01 63 00, www.piens.nu. Located in a renovated 19th-century brewery on the edge of the city centre, this self-proclaimed sofa bar is hard to find and thats the way the owners like it. Those in the know know that this is one of Rigas hottest cocktail bars and many dont mind queuing up at the weekend to sit on one of many couches that are each completely different in style. With two large terraces and a funky, eclectic interior, colourful, hip and laid-back Milk is hard to beat.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta (Nobody Writes to the Colonel) I-2, Peldu 26/28, tel. (+371) 67 21 38 86,
Cocktails
Coco Loco I-2, Pterbazncas 17, tel. (+371) 67 22 43 00. Nearly every wooden surface is stained in the Rastafarian colours of red, yellow and green in this Jamaican bar tucked away behind St.Peters church. Although it serves a small selection of tasty dishes with Caribbean names, theyre not exactly authentic, but are usually at least marinated in traditional jerk spices. That in no way means that we dont like the place. Its primarily a fun cocktail bar and club offering plenty of tasty rum drinks for 4 - 7.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. JAW Cuba Caf H-1, Jauniela 15, tel. (+371) 67 22 43 62, www.cubacafe.lv. The global fascination with Fidel and Guevera is still alive and well in Riga in this dimly-lit caf whose walls are adorned with black and white photos of the tropical nation and its immortal leader. Although a few assorted starters are on offer, Cuba Caf is essentially a cocktail bar serving pricey island drinks in an intimate setting. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AX Skyline Bar F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija - 26th floor), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 82, www.skylinebar.lv. If youre looking to elevate your mood simply take the glass lift to the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and have a drink at the Skyline Bar. Not only does it offer a trendy interior full of stylish couches and cosy niches, but also the most incredible views of Riga youll ever see. Order one of dozens of classic cocktails, listen to a live DJ and take in the biggest city in the Baltics on the other side of the floor-to-ceiling windows. Even though it can be difficult to get a coveted table with a view of Old Riga, the view of other patrons is often even better. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. Admission: Fri - Sun 3. AEXW December 2013 - January 2014
www.pulkvedis.lv. In the mid-1990s, the Colonel was the only bastion of alternative music for a hip crowd of youngsters desperate to avoid pop and techno music. Then a change of owners led to a dark era when even Michael Jackson and Madonna were heard in these once hallowed bohemian halls. Thankfully, today the dimly-lit, industrial-style interior is still popular as is the retro cellar bar with pink shag carpeting on the wall. Naturally, much depends on the DJs and some nights are better than others, but in any event its almost always packed at the weekend and worth a visit. QOpen 20:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. AE theclub.lv. The name may not be too original, but theres plenty to see and do and The Club. A good mix of foreigners, students and beautiful local women congregate here and gyrate and drink to popular club music on two floors. Hit the dance floor to meet and greet and or take a seat on a comfortable couch upstairs and watch the mayhem unfold below. To avoid paying an admission fee, download a flier from its website. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission: men 5 - 7. A
The Club I-2, Kungu 8, tel. (+371) 29 55 15 51, www.
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Gay Riga
www.mygoldenclub.com. Golden doesnt promote itself much as a gay club from the outside, but the flamboyant bartenders do a pretty good job of convincing you just in case you didnt get the hint coming in. After navigating corridors and staircases for a time, youll find a stylish interior, as one might expect, where patrons can sit at the bar in the atrium or relax in the smokers lounge. Thankfully, it doesnt have that sleazy vibe that some gay clubs tend to exude. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
Pool & Billiards

09:00 - 07:00. Also on I-2, Grcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 68 07. PAXW
Golden C-5, ertrdes 33/35, tel. (+371) 25 50 50 50,
Klondaika D-4, Merea 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 16 40, www.klondaika.lv. Five pool tables for 6/hour. QOpen
NB H-2, u 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 63 51, www.nb.lv/ special-offers. Dozens of pool, billiard and snooker tables for 6/hour and relatively cheap drinks. Q Also on C-5, aka 38a (entrance from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 28 44 06. Open 24hrs. AX Zelta boulinga centrs E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 61 07 07, www.zelta.lv. 11 pool tables for roughly 5/hour as well as 22 bowling lanes for 9 - 20/hour depending on the time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. AX
Live music
31 23, www.bluesclub.lv. Latvias only real blues club has moved to a larger space on two floors right behind the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija. All of the autographed photos of blues legends from Europe and the States who have played at the club now cover an entire wall here, but most people will have their gazes fixed on the central stage where performers from near and far do their thing. Order chicken wings, salads or more substantial international main courses or just sip a bourbon, a beer or both and get ready for an evening of incredible live music.QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. Admission: concerts 7 - 20. AEK 38 85, www.krekli.lv. Ultra-Latvians raised on folk songs and beer find their way to this club when they want to hear nothing but familiar rock and quality live performances. Bring a well-versed native to point out famous writers and artists, who often find inspiration under the brick ceiling. White shirts arent required, but no matter how much you smile at the bouncer, you wont get in wearing trainers. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission: 2 - 5. AEX
Bites Blues Club C-4, Dzirnavu 57a, tel. (+371) 67 33
Pubs
ALEhouse C-4, Lpla 12, tel. (+371) 27 87 87 12, www.alehouse.lv. This is the only bar in the Baltics that specialises in American craft brews including delicious offerings by such revered companies as Anchor, Samuel Adams, Sierra Nevada, Cellis, Anderson Valley and many more. You can order international cuisine and a variety of different burgers to go with your IPA or amber ale and you can also buy bottles to take with you. The dark interior of this restored 19th-century wooden building is a bit stiff, but the American rock, folk and country tunes liven things up a little bit and the elegant toilets are probably the best weve ever encountered at a beer bar. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
etri Balti Krekli I-3, Vecpilstas 12, tel. (+371) 67 21
Riga and the Christmas tree

An historical account of the Blackheads Guild recorded in 1510 sheds some interesting light on Rigas claim to Yuletide fame. According to the medieval document, the guildsmen placed a decorated tree on the town square on Christmas day and then set it on fire at the end of the holiday season. The Blackheads were also notorious drinkers so the event may well have been rooted in revelry rather than piety. Today a commemorative disc marks the approximate spot on I-2, Rtslaukums (Town Hall Square). In recent years the city has been promoting itself as the birthplace of the Christmas tree, to the annoyance of its northern neighbours in Tallinn who produced an ancient document that describes a Christmas tree erected in Tallinn in 1441. The Latvians then unearthed another account of a decorated tree from 1476, 35 years short of the Estonian claim. No matter. Rigas politicians and marketing gurus have never let the truth impede a good yarn, so theyve created a shiny representation of this ancient pagan symbol near city hall. Youll find Christmas trees on Dome Square, Town Hall Square and Lvu Square throughout the holiday season. You can also follow the so-called Path of Christmas Trees (www.eglufestivals. lv) throughout the city. Local art students will display their more abstract representations of trees in the centre of Riga and the Old Town from December 6 - January 12.
Folk Club Ala I-2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.lv. One of Rigas largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants, Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend into the depths of this huge space to find a great selection of affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional cuisine and an ever-changing line-up of folk bands guaranteed to get you moving. Although its a favourite among frugal students, its also popular with anyone who appreciates good food, drink and music under medieval brick vaulted ceilings. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Wed 12:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AE
Nightlife tours
Riga Out There Tel. (+371) 29 38 94 50, www.
rigaoutthere.com. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights English-speaking guides will take you and your friends to Rigas best bars and clubs. The 28 tours include at least five destinations and a free drink or free admission depending on the venue. Groups of 6 - 20 people are welcome on the tour that is meant for people who want to experience the real Riga, not the drunken wanderings of a stag party.
Riga Weekend Tel. (+371) 26 57 61 66, info@
rigaweekend.com, www.rigaweekend.com. If youre looking for a custom tailored nightlife tour of Riga for only 21, this company will set you up with a charming female guide that will take you on a pub crawl of the citys best bars that includes free admission to a striptease club and a nightclub. They also arrange a wide variety of activities in Latvia such as paintball, bobsleigh runs, go-carting, shooting with real guns, airport transfers and much more.
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67 22 34 06, www.aussiepubriga.com. Rigas first Aussie pub provides plenty of authentic down under atmosphere but thankfully without any of the usual trappings of stuffed koalas, Fosters beer posters or, God forbid, any portraits of Paul Hogan. Spread out across three floors, the pub offers plenty of tasty and cheap local beers on draught as well as Australias best craft brew, Coopers, in bottles and all are served from a bar thats actually an old VW combi van. Live bands frequently perform at the weekend, fun raffles and lotteries are held often and you can also participate in beer pong and sumo nights. If the cheap happy hour prices (17:00 - 19:00 every day!) are too much for you to handle you can always crash at its hostel upstairs. No menu is available, but you can bring in food from one of a dozen nearby cafs and fast food joints. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. AEW
Aussie Backpackers Pub I-3, Vau 43, tel. (+371)
NEW
Bon Vivant I-2, Mrstau 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 65 85, www.bon-vivant.lv. Solid wood furniture, a cosy atmosphere and assorted Benelux decorations arent the only things that make this place an authentic Belgian beer bar. A whole page of the menu is dedicated to steamed mussels, sausages are ordered by the half metre and expensive, yet tasty brews from the Low Countries are served in their proper glasses. The delicious food and drink isnt cheap, but Europeans have come to expect that anything from Brussels will cost them dearly. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AX Brlis B-5, Trbatas 101, tel. (+371) 27 88 22 22, www.bralis.lv. Tucked away in a cellar at the far end of Trbatas is Brlis, or Brother. Named after the amazingly cheap micro-brew thats served here, its leopard pattern booths and fake brick bar wont win any awards, nor will its standard menu, but its simplicity and lack of pretension are also it strengths. Order a sour krout soup and a cheap beer and watch a local hockey game on TV or yesterdays matches on Eurosport. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Donegans Pub H-2, Laipu 2/4, www.donegans.lv. This shamrock covered pub seems to have sprung up out of thin air, but were not complaining, especially since its just around the corner from RIYP headquarters. Watch sports, listen to live music, knock back a pint of Guinness, or a dozen or so other local and imported beers, or just order some classic pub food like Buffalo wings, burgers, fish n chips and, of course, a big breakfast. You can also take a seat at one of its comfy booths and use its free wi-fi or try the samogon - grain alcohol from eastern Latvia, guaranteed to make you see Leprechauns. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. AEW December 2013 - January 2014
Bnzis D-4, Gogoa 15, tel. (+371) 28 34 87 16, banuzis.wordpress.com. This isnt the place to go with your girlfriend, wife or mistress for that matter. They wouldnt be impressed by the plain grey interior, the shabby furniture, the men who hang out here or its location behind the Soviet Academy of Sciences building. But if you like incredibly cheap British ales, bitters and IPAs on draught and in bottles, tasty local brews like Rzeknes Brveris for cheap and lots of rock music, it might be worth the five-minute walk from the Central Market. We ate a greasy sausage here with potatoes and sour kraut for roughly 2! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. RC
Get this guide on your mobile at m.inyourpocket.com

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NIGHTLIFE
www.klondaika.com. The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer, head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled the gold mine (zelta raktuves) or go down to the bar for beer and cocktails under cattle skulls and wagon wheels. Food is served from 12:00 - 24:00. QOpen 09:00 - 07:00. AXW
Klondaika C-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66,
Midnight munchies
Fontaine Delisnack Riga I-2, Tetra 2, tel. (+371) 67 25 02 50, www.fontaineriga.lv. This cheap slow fast food joint serves up tasty burgers, burritos and pizzas, all cooked to order, plenty of space and friendly service. Order huge burgers served in wax paper with a side of fries and a local Trvetes brew in a laid-back Bohemian atmosphere in Old Riga. Q Open 24hrs. Also at A-5, A. Brina 9a. (3 - 5) AVSW
26 61. Located in the Lion House (there are lions all over the facade), this restaurant offers big, cheap meals in a funky, neon-illuminated interior. Choose from a large buffet which includes the ever-present shashlik as well as other meat cooked over a charcoal grill. Q Open 24hrs. (4 - 7) AS 58 58, www.lulu.lv. Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie can be had here in a small, cosy restaurant that looks a bit like an old-fashioned American malt shop. It also offers a 24-hour delivery service and sells beer and wine in the wee hours of the morning in case you want another drink before bed. Q Open 24hrs. Also at I-2, Grcinieku 7, tel. (+371) 67 86 04 04. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs; D-4, Marijas 2a, tel. (+371) 67 86 04 03. Open 24hrs. VS
Lidojo Varde (The Flying Frog) B-3, Elizabetes 31a, tel. (+371) 67 32 11 84, www.flying-frog.lv. A long-time staple in the city, this three-roomed cellar hangout is filled with more than just frogs though there are lots of them, even in the bathrooms. Build your own burger, chow on unparalleled chicken wings, or go healthy with grilled dishes and salads. Embassy workers and other expats in the area come in droves for lunch, dinner and cocktails or pints of Guinness with their colleagues after quitting time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. AEX Lvu krodzi H-2, Kau 22. The citys most infamous
WARNING
Lauvas Nams B-5, Brvbas 82, tel. (+371) 67 31
Pizza Lul C-4, Blaumaa 5a, tel. (+371) 80 00
rip-off joint has yet again changed its name, this time to Lvu krodzi. When this place was known as Groks, it was the most notorious perpetrator of tourist scams in Latvia. After Riga In Your Pocket and its readers brought this to the attention of the local media, it soon shut its doors. To our horror and dismay it was re-opened as Lord Pub, but police raids, bad press and your comments once again made them change their name to Royal Pub and now Lvu krodzi. Dont even look at this place! Just run away!
Moloneys Pub H-2, Vgnera 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 87 06, www.moloneyspub.com. Moloneys Pub always seems to be full of locals and tourists knocking back beers and watching English football on big flat screen TVs. You can expect plenty of space, hardwood floors, Irish decorations and lots of foreign and domestic brews on draught from Guinness and Kilkenny to Leffe and local Madonas as well as a full menu of pub food from tasty burgers to a big Irish breakfast. A digital jukebox hangs from a wall should you crave your favourite tunes in between matches and you can also have a smoke in Moloneys private courtyard. Live music, a happy hour and loads of cheap drink specials are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AEX
Runcis (Tomcat) I-2, Ja sta 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 41 98. The kind of place where you wish everybody knew your name. Its totally Latvian in its beer, food, and frequenters, who are usually playing chess, playing cards and exchanging anecdotes. If the thought of seeing another tourist makes you queasy, head here to hide and enjoy some of Old Rigas cheapest beer. In short, its a place that most women find boring and most men intriguing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A S. Brevinga Alus un Viskija Brs H-2, Tirgou 4, tel.
(+371) 28 34 87 16, www.brevings.lv. If youre a connoisseur of the finer things in life, namely good beer and whisky, than a trip to this bar is compulsory when in Riga. Over 20 craft brews flow from the taps and dozens more can be ordered in bottles while 70 different single malts tempt patrons from their overstocked shelves behind the bar. You can also order international fare from its small menu, watch some sports on the TV or admire large reproductions of Impressionist paintings hanging on the walls. A large summer terrace next to Doma laukums is also a big bonus and if youd like to buy a drink or two for later, a shop selling the same beers and whiskies is available to the left. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Shop open 12:00 - 22:00. A
Our favourites
For reviews of the following venues take a look at the index on p.74. Bar......................................Krogs Aptieka (Pharmacy Bar) Breakfast................................................................... Osriss Brew pub...................................................................Labietis Child-friendly.................................................. Vairk Saules Cocktails.....................................Cuba Caf or Skyline Bar Coffee.................................................................Kafka kafija Ethnic dining................................. Gan Bei or Uzbekistna Happy hour.................................Aussie Backpackers Pub Latvian food..................Folk Club Ala, LIDO or Meln Bite Pub.................................................... Kiwi Bar or Moloneys Romance....................................................................Garage Sports bar.............................. Paddy Whelans or KHL Bar Student bar................................................ La Belle Epoque Style & Quality....................................................... Neiburgs Upmarket dining............. Bergs, Bilbliotka No 1 or Pinot
Victory Pub I-2, Tirgou 10, tel. (+371) 29 22 83 10, www.victorypub.lv. As our faces registered the sight of dark red walls and matching curtains the friendly waitress confided in us that she also thought the interior was reminiscent of a tarts boudoir, but she assured us that the food and drink were just fine. A menu of standard cuisine including steaks and a cheap lunch special are available as well as a digital jukebox and a smoking room with a pool table and dartboard. A dozen or so different beers can be had here for affordable prices, but at least one beer is usually on sale for cheap, which certainly attracted our attention. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Sun 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. AXW www.riga.inyourpocket.com
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Sports bars
31, www.bombardierbar.lv. English, Belgian and American beer connoisseurs now have a place to call home right in the centre of Riga. Bombardier ale and Youngs oatmeal stout can be had as well as local microbrews like Rzeknes Bryuvers from eastern Latvia. Sports are shown on giant flat screen TVs and a long list of pub food, from fish n chips and chicken wings to soups and steaks, is also available. You can also throw darts in the back. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. A RC
Paddy Whelans Irish Pub & Spor ts Bar I-2,
Bombardier Bar C-5, Lpla 35, tel. (+371) 26 36 81
Grcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, www.pub.lv. Although its considered a traditional Irish pub its also a sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life - namely football and formula one. On the ground floor you can expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different matches, while upstairs youll find a cosier atmosphere with loads of memorabilia on the walls including a portrait of Pierluigi Collina. In addition to the usual Irish and international pub food, Paddys also offers a menu of authentic Indian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00. AEXS
KHL Sports Bar F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija - entrance from Brvbas), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 70, www.khlsportsbar.com. No other sports, Irish or expat bar has as many TVs as the KHL Sports Bar housed in the cellar of the Hotel Latvija. Walk past autographed hockey pucks and team jerseys behind glass to reach this spacious bar where large comfortable booths look like hockey goals and lamps are disguised as hockey helmets. You can order pasta dishes, Caesar salads, steaks, chicken wings and fish and chips, but we prefer the huge burgers. A good selection of imported and local brews is available on draught and you can also play pool, darts and video games. It appears that the only area of the bar where you can miss any of the live sports action is the toilet, but the KHL Sports Bar is one of the few places in Riga where you can watch several games simultaneously. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. A
Student bars
La Belle poque (Franu Brs) I-2, Maz Jaunavu
8 (entrance from Maz Montu), tel. (+371) 67 22 03 53, thefrenchbar.lv. An unusual mix of local youngsters and foreigners congregate in this cellar bar to take advantage of the incredibly cheap beer on draught. Although it often looks like a mix between a high school dance and an all-night rave with scant lighting and lots of bodily contact, the barmen/ chaperones encourage mingling with shots of hard alcohol. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 07:00. A
Plenty more boozers at www.riga.inyourpocket.com

Zapte (Jam) I-2, Maz Montu 5, tel. (+371) 27 49 77 95, www.krogszapte.lv. Tucked away on a small, winding Old Riga street, Zapte is a place for people who like to drink cheaply and who like to drink a lot. In fact, its promotional poster states that size does matter and that patrons should choose the proper volume of their drinks and not be wimps. You and your friends can show off your imbibing prowess by ordering the 3 litre cocktail, but most people seem to drink cheap beer and shots like the Occupation Museum (Riga Balzams, Jgermeister and vodka). QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. AW December 2013 - January 2014
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Essential Riga
Art Nouveau architecture B-3, Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6,
8, 13; Elizabetes 10a & 10b; Strlnieku 4a. Visit the biggest gallery of Art Nouveau architecture by Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the illustrious filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein who was born in Riga. Most of the buildings have now been renovated and of particular interest is the house at Strlnieku 4a. Built in 1905 it has since undergone a complete facelift and is now home to the Stockholm School of Economics in Riga. Dont miss the Riga Art Nouveau Museum at the end of Alberta iela, a must see.
Churches
Orthodox Cathedral (Pareizticgo katedrle) G-3,
Brvbas 23, tel. (+371) 67 21 12 16, www.pravoslavie. lv. Built between 1876 and 1884, this yellow-brick church capped with five gilded cupolas was turned into a planetarium during the occupation but was finally returned to its congregation in 1990. The Soviets destroyed many of the churchs ornate works of art including wall and ceiling frescoes by the famous Russian painter Vereshchagin. Much of the cathedral has now been restored to its former glory.
440, tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs. lv. Take the trip here and youll be rewarded with nearly 90 hectares of life as it used to be. Farmsteads, windmills, fishing villages, churches and other historic structures have been moved here and preserved for posterity. Watch craftsmen perform various tasks or try some Latvian cuisine and drink in the tavern. Take bus N1 from the corner of Merea and Trbatas to the Brvdabas muzejs stop. QOpen 10:00 17:00. Admission: 1.50Ls / 2.13. K
Latvian Ethnographic Museum (Latvijas etnogrfiskais brvdabas muzejs) Brvbas gatve
Riga Cathedral (Doma baznca) H-1, Doma laukums,
tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. The largest place of worship in the Baltics, measuring 187 x 43m, with walls two metres thick, Riga Cathedral also has one of the biggest organs in Europe (6,768 pipes!). It was such a marvel in its day that Franz Liszt composed a piece of music in its honour. The drop from Cathedral Square (Doma laukums) to the churchs base shows how the level of the city has risen in the 800 years since its foundations were laid on the site of a Livonian fishing village. Although currently undergoing renovations, its still open to the public, but you should check its bulletin board near the entrance for exact opening hours. The price of the ticket also includes access to its Romanesque cloister. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: 2Ls / 2.85. RC
E-4, Elijas 18, tel. (+371) 67 22 41 23, www.jezusdraudze.lv. After decades of war in Livonia, the Swedish Empire finally gained control of Riga in 1621. To celebrate an end to war, it was decided that a church dedicated to Jesus should be built outside the city gates. Work was completed in 1638, but sadly peace didnt last long and the church was destroyed by Russian troops in 1656. It was rebuilt in 1688, but was once again destroyed during the Russian siege of Riga in 1710. It rose from the ashes in 1733 only to be razed yet again by the Russian rulers of Riga in 1812 fearing an attack from Napoleons troops. The current octagonal structure was erected in 1818. It has a 27m-high tower and is the largest wooden church in Latvia. QOpen Tue, Thu 12:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat.
Riga Church of Jesus (Rgas ev. lut. Jzus baznca)
St. Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Church (Sv. Aleksandra evska pareizticgo baznca) C-4, Brvbas
56, tel. (+371) 67 28 32 01, www.xram.lv. Construction of this Classicist wooden building began in 1820 and was completed five years later. In 1862 its eclectic-style belfry was added. Yellow and round with a large green dome, its hard to miss it on the corner of Brvbas and Blaumaa. Inside youll find three porticoes, beautiful icons and, unusually, a central altar in the middle of the room.
St. Peters Church (Pterbaznca) I-2, Skru 19,
tel. (+371) 67 18 19 43, peterbaznica.riga.lv. First mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1209, St. Peters was a Catholic church until 1523, when it turned Lutheran. Its wooden tower, the highest in Europe at that time, was destroyed several times. It first collapsed in 1666 and was rebuilt a year later. To see how long it would last, the builders hurled a glass from the top: the more pieces the vessel broke into, the greater the towers longevity. Alas, a pile of straw cushioned the glass fall and the spire burnt down one year later. Artillery fire destroyed the structure again in 1941. In 1973 it was finally rebuilt and the glass ritual was repeated, this time with smashing results. Take the lift to the observation platform for spectacular views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: church & tower 5Ls / 7.12.
9, tel. (+371) 67 32 64 19, www.catholic.lv/katedrale. This church beside the parliament was first mentioned in ancient documents in 1225. In 1522, it became the first church in Latvia to hold a Lutheran service, but during a brief Polish occupation 60 years later it was returned to its Catholic flock, who have held it ever since. Its also interesting to note that St. James was one of the first three churches built in Riga and unlike the Riga Cathedral and St. Peters where mass was held in German, it held services in Latvian until the Reformation. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. The cathedral is closed 13:00 - 14:30, except Sundays.
St. James Cathedral (Jkaba katedrle) H-1, Jkaba
- 1991) (Latvijas okupcijas muzejs) G-2, Raia bulvris 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 27 15, www.okupacijasmuzejs.lv. This museum dedicated to the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Latvia is now located in the former US embassy on Raia bulvris.The various exhibits display the atrocities committed against the people of Latvia and the systematic destruction of their nations sovereignty. Visitors can walk into a reconstructed gulag barracks and catch a glimpse of the intolerable living conditions in Siberian labour camps. Exhibits are available in English, German, Latvian and Russian, but you can also choose to use an audio guide with headphones in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: donations; audio guide 2Ls / 2.86. Riga In Your Pocket
The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (1940
Riga Canal & Opera House by night
M.Zaprauskis
SIGHTSEEING SIGHTsEEiNG
St. Johns (Ja baznca) I-2, Skru 24, tel. (+371)
67 22 40 28, www.janabaznica.lv. First mentioned in 1297 when it served as the chapel of a Dominican abbey, the monastery and church were closed during the Reformation in 1523. The building was used for a time as the citys armoury, until it was taken over by a Lutheran congregation in 1582. During the buildings construction two monks were bricked into the southern wall and lived out their lives there, fed through the window grate. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00 (closed during private ceremonies such as weddings, etc.).
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Christmas in Riga
So whats Christmas like in Latvia? Well that depends on your like or dislike o f g i n ge r b re a d c o o k i e s (piparkkas) and mull ed wine (karstvns). If you like the stuff then youll have no problem enjoying yourself in Riga. If youre more of an eggnog kind of person you might have a tough time getting into the holiday spirit as this delicious concoction is as yet unknown in these parts. You also might be thrown by the fact that locals love their pork more than any other meat, so a turkey or any other poultry for that matter will definitely not be on the menu at Latvian homes, or restaurants either. Instead youll probably see pig snouts and ears as a starter before a pork roast. Prgi, little pastries filled with chopped pork and onions, are another classic Christmas appetiser and some Latvians spend the morning baking them before the big event. Yes, Porky Pig is the king of cuisine in Latvia and it would probably take the second coming to change that fact. You can, however, get a fresh goose or duck at the Central Market and perhaps a frozen specimen at Stockmann or Rimi. Rigas more upmarket dining establishments will probably also have them on the menu. If youre lucky enough to celebrate Christmas at a Latvian home then wed be remiss if we didnt warn you about two things. When locals receive a gift, they have to sing for their supper, so to speak. In fact, Latvians recite a folk song or poem before accepting a present so brush up on Twas the Night Before Christmas. A football chant will do in a pinch. A traditional Christmas tree will also include burning candles so try not to knock it over and keep an escape route in mind. Although the majority of Latvian Christians are Lutheran, there are also quite a few Catholics, especially in the eastern part of the country. The nations Russianspeaking population, most of whom are Orthodox Christians, celebrate the same religious holidays a couple of weeks after the Protestants. Thats also why the Yuletide atmosphere lasts well into January in Riga, a positive fringe benefit of multiculturalism. Of course, Latvians were one of the last ethnic groups in Europe to accept Christianity. Teutonic knights arrived on the heathen shores of the Baltic in the late 12th-century and spent the next 100 years subjugating local Latvian and Liv tribes who were too divided to mount a proper resistance. Some were killed, some were converted and others moved south into a unified Lithuania that was a little too tough for the pious Germans. Today, Latvians still honour their ancestors by acting out the pagan rituals of old such as dragging the yule log. The farmers of old would drag a log around their property to soak up all of the years evil and bad luck and then they would burn it as a symbolic gesture. If youd like to drag the log and soak up some pagan winter solstice cheer then head out to the Latvian Ethongraphic Museum on December 15 from 12:00 - 16:00 for lots of ethnic celebrations and warm drinks in the cold. For Christmas markets in Riga see the Shopping chapter, but for Christmas concerts see Culture & Events.
St. Saviours (Angliku baznca) H-1, Angliku 2a, tel. (+371) 67 22 22 59, www.anglicanriga.lv. This little church commissioned by British traders living in Riga was built in 1857 on a shipload of English soil specially imported from the UK. Consecrated in 1859, the church was only full when British warships visited Latvia. Transformed into a student disco during Soviet times, it is once again a place of worship which is attended by Rigas English-speaking expat population. (Services: Sun 11:00 - English)
Jewish Riga
D-5, At the corner of Gogoa and Dzirnavu, www.jews. lv. Although the colossal synagogue no longer exists, its worth the 10 minute walk from the train station to see what remains of this one-time place of worship and to meditate on one of the most beastly crimes committed during the Nazi occupation of Latvia. On July 4, 1941, hundreds of Jewish refugees from Lithuania and local Latvian Jews were herded into the basement of the synagogue which was then intentionally burned to the ground. Only ruins, a metal menorah and a memorial stone remain.
Great Choral Synagogue (Die Greise Hor Shul)
Jews in Latvia C-4, Skolas 6, tel. (+371) 67 28 34 84, www.jews.lv. Located on the third floor, this small, yet informative museum documents, in Latvian and English, the history of Jewish life in Latvia beginning with the 18th century. Visitors can discover the important role Jews played in Latvian society and the contributions they made to intellectual life, the arts and even sports. The exhibits are also a moving testimony to the suffering Latvian Jews experienced at the hands of the Nazis and Soviets. The last section of the museum entitled The Jewish People Survived illustrates the triumphant rebirth of Judaism in Latvia after independence. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission: donations.
Maskavas 14a (entrance from Krasta), tel. (+371) 67 27 08 27, www.rgm.lv. Although more of an outdoor monument with exhibits than a museum, this courtyard between Maskavas and Krasta streets is still worth a visit, especially if youre interested in Jewish history. Its main feature is an ominously long wall covered with the names of victims of the Holocaust in Latvia. You can also look at Nazi propaganda, horrifying photos of tortured bodies, stills of ghetto life and grainy black and whites of old synagogues across the country, most of which no longer exist. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
Riga Ghetto Museum (Rgas geto muzejs) E-4,
Synagogue (Peitav Shul) I-2, Peitavas 6/8, tel. (+371)
67 21 45 07, www.jews.lv. Built in 1905, this is the only surviving Jewish prayer house and the main meeting place for the 12,000-strong community. Although it was used as a warehouse during the Nazi occupation, its sacred scrolls and other treasures were hidden and escaped destruction. It is said that the building was not burned to the ground as others had been due to its close proximity to other houses in Old Riga. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
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SIGHTsEEING
Museums
vugd.gov.lv. Set up in 1978 on the premises of a former fire station built in 1912, this museum displays the history of fire fighting in Latvia from the second half of the 19th century until the present. View fire fighting equipment, uniforms, flags, photographs and documents for a nominal fee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 0.20Ls / 0.28. RC
Fire-Fighting Museum (Latvijas ugunsdzsbas muzejs) B-4, Hanzas 5, tel. (+371) 67 33 13 34, muzejs.
(+371) 67 22 22 35, www.lnmm.lv. Latvian textiles, ceramics as well as glass, wood and metal work are all housed in this gallery/museum. Formerly St. Georges church, its the oldest surviving religious stone building in Riga (13th century). You can also purchase local textiles, jewellery and other souvenirs here at its shop. Exhibitions usually cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1.50 - 3Ls (2.13 - 4.27).
Museum of Decorative Art & Design (Dekoratvs mkslas un dizaina muzejs) I-2, Skru 10/20, tel.
www.railwaymuseum.lv. Retrace the tracks of rail history in Latvia in this museum run by Latvian Railways (Latvijas dzelzce). Inside the brick hangar youll find old photographs, antiquated machines and a few specimens of old wagons. Outside you can look at restored Soviet diesel and electric locomotives built in Ukraine and Russia as well as a German locomotive built in 1942 that no doubt became a spoil of war. Dont miss the Tsarist era prison car. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1Ls / 1.42.
Latvian Railway Museum (Latvijas dzelzcea muzejs) E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 23 28 49,
Museum of Pharmacy (Farmcijas muzejs) I-2,
I-2, Alksnja 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 51 27, www.sportamuzejs.lv/index.php. This small museum housed in an historic medieval building traces the evolution of Latvian sport from the late 19th-century when cycling, swimming and wrestling were all the rage to the present day when hockey and other winter activities seem to dominate. Look at black and white photos, old medals, posters from the 1930s and some truly interesting memorabilia like world champion Uljana Semjonovas enormous (mens US 21/EU 58) basketball shoes! An excellent colour photo exhibit is available upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 0.50Ls / 0.71.
Latvian Sports Museum (Latvijas Sporta muzejs)
Vgnera 13, tel. (+371) 67 21 30 08, fm.mvm.lv/en. The making of medicine used to be an art, judging from the exhibit in this historic home in Old Riga. Displays of porcelain containers, tools and century-old remedies trace the history of pharmacology in Latvia, and the authentic drug store brings visitors back to the 1920s. Its worth calling ahead to book a tour, because only then will the more obscure and even ominous aspects of prescribing and creating medicine be explained. Many of the antique packages and flasks contain their original contents, which in some cases are still potent. Just because the warning labels arent in a language you understand doesnt mean you should try the drugs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1.50Ls / 2.13. RC
Mentzendorffs House (Mencendorfa nams) I-2, Grcinieku 18, tel. (+371) 67 21 29 51, www.mencendorfanams.com. For fans of antiquity this fascinating historical house that once belonged to a wealthy Riga merchant is a must. Restored furniture, 18th century frescoes and a true medieval atmosphere are all here for your perusal. Not only can you see how the medieval rich lived in their fine apartments, but also how the servants toiled in the massive kitchen area. Guided tours in English, German and Russian are available for 7Ls / 10. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1 - 2Ls (1.42 - 2.85); photos 2Ls / 2.85.
4, tel. (+371) 67 35 66 76, www.rigamuz.lv. Enter this unique museum and walk up the stairs to the first floor to discover temporary exhibitions from Latvia and abroad, as well as art and memorabilia from the days of the first Latvian Republic. The second floor displays Bronze Age artefacts and medieval curiosities, such as the sword used by Rigas executioner in the 16th century and the mummified hand of an unlucky criminal. You can also take a peek at Riga Cathedrals courtyard, which is also open to the public, from upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 3Ls / 4.27. RC
Museum of Rigas History and Navigation (Rgas vstures un kuniecbas muzejs) H/I-1, Palasta
Museum of War (Kara muzejs) H-2, Smilu 20, tel. (+371) 67 22 81 47, www.karamuzejs.lv. Latvia is one of the most war-ravaged countries in Europe, so it comes as no surprise that it would have its own museum about this unfortunate subject. Crusader, Swedish, Polish, German and Russian armies have all left their mark on these shores. This museum of photos and memorabilia documents the struggles of the 20th century, from WWI and the war for independence up to and including the Nazi and Soviet occupations of WWII. One exhibition chronicles the development of the Latvian army from WWI until 1940. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: free. Natural History Museum of Latvia (Latvijas Dabas muzejs) D-4, Barona 4, tel. (+371) 67 35 60 24,
The Riga Bourse Art Museum & Riga Cathedral
MZ
www.dabasmuzejs.gov.lv. One of Rigas oldest museums has been renovated and modernised in recent years with interactive exhibits, informative touch screens and learning games for the kids. The second floor is dedicated to palaeontology and geology with mock-ups of ancient ecosystems and fossils under glass, while the third floor specialises in zoology with an unparalled taxidermy collection that includes everything from eagles to lions and even a giraffe. The fourth and fifth floors present exhibits relating to human evolution, marine biology, botany and entomology. An impressive hanging skeleton of a killer whale offsets gruesome exhibits of human skulls and foetuses. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.50Ls / 2.13; audio guides in English or Russian 4Ls / 5.69. RC
Riga In Your Pocket
SIGHTSEEING
Antonijas 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 26 65, www.mvm.lv. Named in honour of the Latvian physician Pauls Stradi, this fascinating museum traces the medical practice throughout the ages. View straight jackets, old medical equipment, a recreated 19th-century pharmacy and plaques warning of smallpox in a stately building overlooking the Kronvalda Park. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1.50Ls / 2.13. RC
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Paul Stradin Museum of the History of Medicine (P. Stradia medicnas vstures muzejs) B-3,
The Belgians are coming!

As it turns out, Latvians and Belgians have a lot more in common than a shared appreciation of good beer. A 1927 exhibition of Belgian art in Riga followed by a valuable gift of Belgian paintings to the Latvian state in 1932 inspired a whole generation of local artists who adopted a similar style in their own painting. One of Latvias most renowned painters, Jnis Tdemanis (1897 - 1964), even studied under the famous Belgian painter Isidore Opsomer (1878 - 1967) at the Royal Academy of Art in Antwerp. An exhibition with a tediously long name Impressions and Parallels Belgian and Latvian painting of the first half of the 20th century from the collection of the Latvian National Museum of Art will be on display in the Great Hall of the Riga Bourse Art Museum (H-1, Doma laukums 6, www.rigasbirza. lv) until February 2, 2014. Although works by such important Belgian artists as Isidore Opsomer, Valerius de Saedeleer, Philibert Cockx and Louis Buisseret have been displayed at local exhibitions in the past, this will be the first time that Latvian paintings of the same era will be shown next to the Belgian works of art from which they drew so much inspiration. Tickets cost 3Ls / 4.27. Images: Girl in a Folk Costume by Jnis Tdemanis and The Old Town (Lierre in the 17th Century) by Isidore Opsomer
Riga Art Nouveau Museum (Rgas Jgendstila muzejs) B-3, Alberta 12, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 65, www.
jugendstils.riga.lv. This museum is housed in an apartment where one of Latvias best art nouveau architects once lived - Konstantns Pkns. The prolific artist and engineer who was responsible for the creation of no less than 250 buildings in Riga also designed this impressive edifice. The historic house was also home to the illustrious painter Janis Rozentls and the writer Rdolfs Blaumanis to whom another museum is dedicated on the top floor. View period furniture and artwork from one of the Latvian capitals most creative eras. A must see. Dont miss the grand staircase! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2.46Ls / 3.50. RC
www.rigasbirza.lv. The former Riga Stock Exchange has been transformed into this wonderful museum. Inside youll find an excellent collection of 17th-century Chinese, Japanese and Delft Blue porcelain, three centuries of silverware from the Baltics, Russia and Germany as well as some lesserknown, but no less impressive paintings by Dutch masters of the Golden Era. Although the lighting could be better in the main hall, you can find some real gems including a winter landscape by Monet and a bronze of lovers by Rodin. An Eastern gallery is also available, which includes everything from Egyptian mummies to priceless Southeast Asian artefacts. The ugly brown hue of the building is supposedly the original colour of the monumental Venetian Palazzo style edifice when it was unveiled in 1855. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2 - 4.50Ls (2.85 - 6.40). AW
Riga Bourse Art Museum (Mkslas muzejs Rgas Bira) H-1, Doma laukums 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 64 67,
Sun Museum (Saules muzejs) I-3, Vau 30, tel.
10/12 (entrance from Alksnju/Maz Peitavas), tel. (+371) 67 35 88 73, www.kinomuzejs.lv. Although difficult to find, if youre a film buff it might be worth the effort to visit this small museum hidden away in an Old Riga courtyard. Its main collection of memorabilia, photos and other movie history is available at an even less accessible location, but periodic exhibitions on interesting film topics are open to the public here year-round. Best of all, it now houses a permanent interactive digital exhibition entitled the Cinema Cabinet, which documents the history of Latvian filmmaking from the late 19th century to the present day. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission: 2Ls / 2.85 (every first Wednesday of the month free). I-2, Kalju 9/11 (Konventa Sta), tel. (+371) 67 01 29 44, porcelanamuzejs.riga.lv. The Konventa Sta houses the only porcelain collection of its kind in the Baltics.The exhibit traces the rich history of porcelain manufacturing in Riga, chiefly started in 1841. An enormous red and gold vase dominates the exhibit, and is a standout not only because of its size, but because it was specially made for Riga on her 700th birthday in 1901. One room is filled with works from the Soviet era, when images of leaders were immortalised on vases. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1Ls / 1.42. RC
Riga Film Museum (Rgas Kinomuzejs) I-2, Peitavas
(+371) 67 22 55 87/(+371) 29 69 04 16, www.saulesmuzejs.lv. Iveta Graule, the museums owner and curator, began collecting images of the sun with the purchase of a silver necklace ornament in Portugal in 1999. Over the years her collection grew so large that she finally decided to open a museum to house it. View over 350 porcelain, metal, iron, wood, papier-mch, coconut and glass wall decorations of the sun from 43 countries and six continents at Europes only sun museum. You can also paint your own plaster sun in the workshop, which is included in the price of admission. Not surprisingly, the collection keeps growing as visitors donate their own sun mirrors, clocks, plates and ceremonial masks from around the globe. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults 2.50Ls (3.56), children 2Ls (2.85), children age 4 - 6 1Ls (1.42). TJ
Rga Porcelain Museum (Rgas porcelna muzejs)
35 25, www.barikades.lv. This small museum is dedicated to the brave men and women who defended the Latvian parliament from Soviet troops that were ordered to put an end to the independence movement. Latvians from all walks of life from around the country braved bitter cold temperatures in January and potential death at the hands of the Soviet army to prevent a communist coup. Visitors can look at photos on interactive touch-screens and enter a dark room made to look like a typical barricades scene complete with a Russian soldier. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: donations.
The Museum of the Barricades of 1991 (1991. gada bariku muzejs) I-1, Krmu 3, tel. (+371) 67 21
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SIGHTsEEING
1960s Latvian graphic design
Although most Westerners are quite familiar with the direction of art and design in their own nations in the 1960s, very few realise that Latvia made its own contributions during this era and were not just talking about grey, standardised Soviet architecture. A new exhibition entitled On the Track of the Grand Life: the Graphic Language of the 1960s in Latvia illustrates this little known period of Latvian creativity with posters, postcards, ceramics, textiles, photographs and periodicals. You can step back in time at the Museum of Decorative Art and Design (I-2, Skru 10/20, www.lnmm.lv) from December 7, 2013 - February 2, 2014. Tickets cost 2.50Ls/3.56. Image: Strange Log (1960) by Mrti Zaurs (1915 - 1998). Photo by Dace Lavia
Central Market (Centrltirgus) J-3, Centrltirgus iela, www.centraltirgus.lv. When construction was completed in 1930, Rigas Central Market was one of the largest and most modern marketplaces on the European continent. Eighty years later, four of the five pavilions, which were used as zeppelin hangars during WWI, still serve their original function as meat, fish, produce and dairy markets. The bustling atmosphere also hasnt changed much, although most of the hawkers are more reluctant to haggle than in the past. The markets spill out beyond the confines of the hangars and operate throughout the day, some longer than others. Each pavilion has slightly different opening hours. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Freedom Monument (Brvbas piemineklis) H-3,
Where Brvbas and Raia meet. Milda, as she is affectionately known, was unveiled in 1935 and is a national shrine for Latvians. Designed by Krlis Zle, the friezes around the base of the sculpture depict Latvians singing, working and fighting for their freedom, while the three stars in the maidens hands represent the three historical regions of the country: Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale. Locals are always placing flowers at the base of the monument, an act for which people were deported to Siberia in Soviet times. When the weather is favourable the honour guard changes every hour on the hour from 09:00 - 18:00.
Parks & Cemeteries

Bastion Hill (Bastejkalns) G-2, Separating Old Riga from the new centre. This hill was created from 1857 to 1859 to replace the old defensive sand bulwark. Within its precincts are memorial stones to five people killed by Soviet bullets during the January 1991 disturbances. Among the dead were camera operators documenting the stormy events. Despite the popular coverage of the Gulf War at the time, their footage was shown all over the globe, much to the chagrin of the Soviets. Brothers Cemetery (Bru kapi) Aizsaules 1b. The Cemetery of Heroes is the last resting place for the Latvian soldiers who died defending Latvia from 1915 - 1920. Built by Krlis Zle in the constructivist style of the 1920s with white tufa, you cant miss the impressive statue of Mother Latvia, who dominates an army of little graves. Take tram N11 from Barona to the Bru kapi stop.
Great & Small Guild Halls (Liel & Maz ilde) H-2,
Amatu 6 and Amatu 5, www.gilde.lv/maza. During the centuries of German economic domination, the guilds were Rigas power brokers. The former, dating from 1384, was the home of the merchants, while the latter held the citys artisans. These slightly different audiences are reflected in the respective usage of the buildings today: while the Great Guild is home to the Latvian Symphony Orchestra, its smaller cousin hosts conferences and the occasional disco. Rtslaukums 7, tel. (+371) 67 04 43 00, www.melngalvjunams.lv. One of Rigas architectural treasures, the House of Blackheads was erected in 1344, but was embellished and expanded in the 16th, 17th and 19th centuries. It was destroyed in 1941 and its ruins were completely demolished by the Soviets in 1948, but it finally rose from the ashes in the late 1990s in keeping with the medieval saying above its entrance that states if I should fall, build me again. A striking Gothic building with a Dutch Renaissance facade, it was used to house single members of the merchants guild who were also notorious revellers of their day. Its even rumoured that their parties and feasts were often attended by royalty in disguise. Sadly, the President of Latvia has moved his offices here while Riga Castle is being renovated, so the building is currently not open to the public.
House of Blackheads (Melngalvju nams) I-2,
Places of interest
Castle of Light (Gaismas pils) E-3, Mkusalas 3, www.
gaismaspils.lv. The Latvian National Library is the brainchild of American-Latvian architect Gunnar Birkerts, who is perhaps best known for his creations in the United States which include the Corning Museum of Glass in New York State and the Law Library Building at the University of Michigan. Although the building is only scheduled to open in 2014, the massive structure is already an intriguing addition to Rigas skyline. Its shape is a symbolic expression of the Hill of Glass and the Castle of Light found in Latvian folklore. Legend has it that the Castle of Light sank into an ancient lake and would only arise from the depths when Latvians were once again masters of their own land.
Cat House (Kau mja) H-2, Meistaru 10/12. The Cat House is named for two black felines perched on the points of its towers. Not only did the beasts curse their first sculptor, he fatally fell while putting them up, but their purpose was to cause trouble. Roughly 100 years ago, the Latvian owner of the building was excluded from the powerful Big Guild across the road by its ethnocentric German occupants. He ordered the cats to be turned around, backside up, as an insult to his enemies. They were turned around after a lengthy court battle and he was eventually admitted to the Guild. Riga In Your Pocket
Picturesque Skru iela in Old Riga
M.Zaprauskis
SIGHTSEEING
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Laima Clock (Laimas pulkstenis) H-2, Where
Brvbas and Aspazijas meet. Satiekamies pie Laimas pulkstea - lets meet at the Laima clock! The yellow-brown clock in front of the Freedom Monument has been a meeting place since it was erected by social democrats in 1924 so people wouldnt be late for work. For decades it has advertised Laima chocolate, and many a sweet romance has started here. The famous clock was repaired some years ago and its time is now synchronised twice daily by satellite.
Riga Castle (Rgas pils) H-1, Pils laukums 3. Built
This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifications, the rest having been progressively knocked down because artillery made them obsolete. This fragment was built between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored during Soviet times, hence its rather new appearance. It used to run between the Bishops Castle and the Castle of the Brothers of the Sword. At the end of Aldaru, is the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vrti), built in 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavians occupation of the city, and the only such structure left in Old Riga. The apartment above belonged to the city executioner or bende, who would put a red rose on the window ledge on the morning before a head rolled.
Old City Walls & Swedish Gate (Vecpilstas mris & Zviedru vrti) H-2, At the corner of Tora and Aldaru.
in 1330 as a base for the Livonian Order, the castle was destroyed several times during battles with the local townspeople. After the Orders destruction, the various occupiers of the city housed their governors inside. Latvias first postCold War president Guntis Ulmanis made it his official office to continue the tradition begun by Latvias interwar presidents in the 1920s and 1930s. It also housed the National History Museum of Latvia, but tragically, a fire broke out during renovations on June 21, 2013 and parts of the interior were gutted.
Riga National Zoo (Rgas zooloiskais drzs) Mea prosp. 1, tel. (+371) 67 51 84 09, www.rigazoo.lv. Take a look at a wide variety of animals from around the globe including tortoises from the Galapagos, Japanese macaques, Bactrian camels, African zebras, lions, tigers, giraffes and hippopotami, Asian red pandas and European bears, wolves and seals. The zoo also has a top-notch tropical house filled with rare birds, snakes, frogs and insects. Take tram N11 from Barona to the Meaparks stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 4.22Ls / 6, children 4 - 18 years 2.81Ls / 4, free for children under four. Town Hall Square (Rtslaukums) I-2, Rtslaukums. The statue of St. Roland, Rgas patron saint, was erected in the centre of Town Hall Square in 1897, but was later moved to St. Peters after it was damaged in WWII. A replica now occupies its pedestal. Most of the medieval square was destroyed during the last war, but has now been rebuilt with mixed results. The reconstructed town hall on the northern side of the square is graced with a baroque tower and a postmodern roof and is now once again open for business. The modern building that obscures the view of the square from Kau is simply too ugly for words. December 2013 - January 2014
Powder Tower (Pulvertornis) H-2, Smilu 20. Dating back to the beginning of the 14th century, only the rock foundations remained after it was destroyed by invading Swedish troops in 1621. It was rebuilt in 1650 with 2.5m thick walls to protect its valuable contents inside and was obviously successful, as nine Russian cannonballs that hardly made a dent were later embedded in its walls by cheeky masons. At the end of the 19th century a German student fraternity bought the building, but today its part of the War Museum. www.riga.inyourpocket.com
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SIGHTSEEING
1, tel. (+371) 67 10 86 43, www.tvtornis.lv. For a small fee you can take the lift up to the observation deck and get an incredible view at a height of 97m. Supposedly on a clear day you can not only see the entire city and the sea, but also the tallest hills in Sigulda over 50km away! Take trolleybus No.19 from the Inenieru iela stop next to the University of Latvia to the Zausala stop on the Sala bridge and then walk the rest of the way to the tower. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission: 2.60Ls / 3.70.
TV & Radio Tower (TV tornis) Zausalas krastmala
Riga for kids

Eating out Finding childfriendly restaurants and cafs in Riga can sometimes be a bit of a chore, but a few have realised that providing a play area for children can actually add to their bottom line. Vairk Saules (C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28 78) offers a kids menu and all the legos a child could ever want and T.G.I.Fridays (I-2, Kau 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 70) offers colouring books and a kids menu. K|I|D (B-3, Pulkvea Briea 2, www. restaurantkid.lv) even offers a childrens room thats supervised by a nanny of sorts. Educational trips The Open-Air Ethnographic Museum (Brvbas gatve 440, tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15) is a great place for kids. Not only can children learn about Latvian customs and rural living, but they can also see people in period costume performing various tasks like shaping iron at the blacksmiths. The Riga National Zoo (see What to see) is also always a good option and kids can paint their own plaster suns at the Sun Museum (I-3, Vau 30, www.saulesmuzejs.lv). You can also combine a shopping outing with some kids fun at Zili Brnumi (C-4, Dzirnavu 67 - 6th floor, www.zilibrinumi.lv). This fascinating childrens centre in the Galleria Riga shopping centre offers a number of interactive exhibits that teach kids about science and the natural world in an interesting way. The little ones can also take a look at St. Peters golden rooster through a telescope or take advantage of the play room thats filled with wooden development toys. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Just for fun Lvu Akvaparks (Jrmala, Lielupe, Viestura 24, www.akvaparks.lv) offers a wave pool, a childrens pool, six water slides and a tubing river guaranteed to keep the kids happy all day long. Parents can have a drink at the swim-up cocktail bar. The giant Lido Recreation Centre (Krasta 76, www.lido.lv) also has plenty to offer including lots of childrens attractions including ice skating when it gets cold enough. The Riga Circus (D-4, Merea 4) is also an option. Visit www.cirks.lv for show times. The Christmas market on H-1, Doma laukums is also a great place for kids. For bowling, entertainment centres, swimming pools and other activities for the whole family see Sports & Leisure.
Soviet Riga
Academy of Sciences (Zintu Akadmija) D-4, Akadmijas laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 53 61, www. lza.lv. This Soviet edifice is a cousin to similar statements of ugliness all over Eastern Europe and local nicknames for the Empire State building copy include Stalins birthday cake or the Kremlin. If you look closely you can spot several hammers and sickles up top. At a height of 65m, the 17th-floor balcony is open to the public for a small fee but only from April - September. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Latvian Riflemen Monument (Strlnieku pi emineklis) J-1, Strlnieku laukums. In the centre of
Old Riga stands a controversial red granite statue that was originally dedicated to the Latvian Red Riflemen, some of whom became Lenins personal bodyguards. Some view the monument as a symbol of the old communist system and would love to tear it down. Others believe its a necessary tribute to Latvians who fought in the early years of WWI. It now honours all Latvian riflemen, both Whites and Reds. Politics aside, its an impressive monument.
E-2, Over the Akmens Bridge in Prdaugava. The Soviet war memorial which commemorates the supposed communist liberation of Riga was built in 1985. The monument consists of a tall concrete obelisk adorned with five golden stars symbolising the five years of WWII. On either side are bronze statues of Mother Russia and soldiers advancing with their weapons raised. Dozens of hectares of parkland surround this shrine to former Soviet glory. Take tram N5 from 11. Novembra krastmala to the second stop over the Akmens Bridge.
Soviet Victory Monument (Uzvaras piemineklis)
Femme fatales in Riga

This December and January the Riga Bourse Art Museum (H-1, Doma laukums 6, www. rigasbirza.lv) will host a fascinating exhibition dedicated to the influential Belgian graphic artist and painter Armand Rassenfosse (1862 - 1934). His obsession with the female form and the very nature of womanhood will be illustrated via his drawings, paintings and graphic works. Although some display what the artist believed to be the inherent beauty of women, others show the darker side of the fairer sex as femme fatales. The exhibition entitled Armand Rassenfosse. Femme Fatale will be on display in the Bosse Hall of the museum until February 2, 2014. Tickets cost 1Ls/1.42. Image: The Toy by Armand Rassenfosse
Red roofs and green spires in Old Riga
M.Zaprauskis
Riga In Your Pocket
GETTING AROUND
Need to know how much a tram or trolleybus costs? Want to know what time a bus leaves for Tallinn? Read on.
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Airline offices
Aeroflot Tel. (+371) 67 78 07 70, www.aeroflot.lv. Direct flights to Moscow (Sheremetyevo). QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. airBaltic Airport, tel. (+371) 90 00 11 00 (toll call), www.airbaltic.lv. The Latvian national airline flies to dozens of destinations throughout Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia. QOpen 05:00 - 23:00. Belavia Airport, tel. (+371) 67 32 03 14, www.belavia. by. Direct flights to Minsk. SA Czech Airlines Tel. (+371) 67 20 76 36, www. czechairlines.lv. Direct flights to Prague. Estonian Air www.estonianair.com. Flights to Tallinn. Finnair Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 70 10, www.finnair. com. Direct flights to Helsinki. LOT (Polish Airlines) Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 71 13, www.lot.com. Direct flights to Warsaw. Lufthansa Airport, tel. (+371) 67 50 77 11, www. lufthansa.com. Direct flights to Frankfurt. Norwegian www.norwegian.no. Norways low cost airline offers cheap direct flights to Oslo and Trondheim as well as Stockholm and Copenhagen. Ryanair www.ryanair.com. Europes leading budget airline now offers cheap direct flights between Riga and Brussels (Charleroi), Dublin, Dusseldorf (Weese), East Midlands (UK), Frankfurt (Hahn), Glasgow (Prestwick), Leeds (Bradford), London (Stansted), Manchester, Milan (Bergamo), Oslo (Rygge) and Stockholm (Skavsta). RIX 1187 125x92 EN Direct RIYP.pdf Transaero www.transaero.com. flight to 11/22/10 Moscow (Domodedovo).
Turkish Airlines G-3, Merea 21, tel. (+371) 67 35 94 44, www.turkishairlines.com. Direct flights to Istanbul and Antalya. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at the airport, tel.(+371) 67 21 00 94. Uzbekistan Airways B-3, Elizabetes 11, tel. (+371) 67 32 45 63, www.uzairways.com. Direct flights to New York (JFK) and Tashkent. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Wizz Air www.wizzair.com. Flights to and from London (Luton), Oslo (Torp) and Eindhoven, the Netherlands.
Airport
Riga International Airport (Lidosta) Tel. (+371)
1187 (toll call), www.riga-airport.com. Riga international airport, known throughout the world as RIX, lies some 10km southwest of the city. The Airport Express shuttle stops at 10 different hotels (including Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija, Albert Hotel and Monika Centrum Hotel) in the city centre and the left bank of the river (Islande Hotel and Maritim) every 30 minutes between 04:25 - 00:35. The trip costs 3.51Ls / 5. Bus N22 leaving from Grcinieku iela will take you there for 0.70Ls / 1 (0.50Ls / 0.71 if you buy it from the machine at the bus stop and not the driver). For departure times visit www.rigassatiksme.lv. The airport has undergone major improvements over the years and the latest upgrade includes a new terminal for low cost airlines. A TGIFridays is available at the far right of the airport and a LIDO Latvian restaurant is open on the top floor of the main terminal for those who want a last sip of a local beer or who just cant stand airplane food. A pizzeria, some local cafs and a variety of duty free and paid shops selling the usual alcohol, tobacco and perfume 5:13:22 are locatedPM on the other side of the security checkpoint. For more information visit its comprehensive website.
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GETTINg AROUND
Ferry schedule
Days Dep Arr From Ventspils 2 00:01 10:00 3 10:00 19:00 4 20:00 08:00 6 18:00 06:05 7 23:00 09:00 Destination & Ship Nynashamn (Stockholm)+ Scottish Viking Scottish Viking Scottish Viking Scottish Viking Scottish Viking Dep Arr Days To 10:00 19:00 22:00 22:00 08:00 21:00 07:00 10:00 10:00 19:00 Ventspils 1 2 3 5 7
Long-distance buses
90 00 00 09, www.autoosta.lv. The bus station is open from 05:00 - 24:00. For information try the info centre (08:00 - 21:00). Riga is linked to major European cities in the East and West. The bus is quicker and cheaper than the train but they often fill up quickly, especially during the summer. Ticket counters 1 - 9 sell tickets to all local destinations. For buses to Kyiv, Moscow and Western Europe visit the following companies that have offices on the ground floor: ECOLINES J-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 21 45 12, www.ecolines.net. As its name suggests, this company has been providing affordable bus service to hundreds of cities in 18 European countries since 1993. You can purchase a ticket at its service centres at the Riga Bus Terminal and in the city centre on aka iela as well as at local travel agencies or save some time and receive a substantial discount by ordering a ticket online at www.ecolines.net. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Also at C-5, aka 45, tel. (+371) 67 27 44 44. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lux Express J-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 78 13 50, www.luxexpress.eu/lv. Try its luxury express buses to Tallinn and Vilnius that include free wi-fi, coffee and tea, toilet and a lounge in the back of the bus. Also operate routes to other cities in the Baltics, Poland and Russia. QOpen 06:40 - 22:00. A
Bus Station (Autoosta) J-3, Prgas 1, tel. (+371)
From Riga Stockholm * To Riga 17:30 10:30 Romantika 17:00 11:00 17:30 10:30 Isabelle 17:00 11:00 From Liepja 2 04:00 4 04:00 6 17:00 7 04:00 Travemunde + 07:30 07:30 19:00 07:30 URD / ASK ASK / URD URD / ASK ASK / URD 20:00 18:00 20:00 20:00 To 22:30 22:30 23:30 23:30 Liepja 2 4 5 7
+ Stena Line offers four ferries to three destinations. Departure times will change in mid-December so visit www.stenaline.lv for more information. * Tallink Silja Line offers daily ferry service to Stockholm from Riga. You can book passage on either the Romantika or the Isabelle depending on the day of departure. Visit its website www.tallinksilja.com for exact schedules. This schedule is subject to change.
Public transport
Riga has nine tram lines, 19 trolleybus routes and 52 bus routes that operate from as early as 05:00 to as late as 01:00, depending on the route. Buy a ticket from the driver for 0.70Ls (1) or purchase a cheaper e-talons ticket for 0.50Ls (0.71) beforehand at designated Riga Transport (Rgas Satiksme) ticket offices, at public transport ticket machines or at Narvesen newsstands. Passengers can choose from a wide variety of ticket options which include tickets for one (0.50Ls / 0.71), four (2Ls / 2.85), five (2.50Ls / 3.56), 10 (4.75Ls / 6.76) and 20 (9Ls / 12.81) rides or tickets good for one (1.90Ls / 2.70), three (5.70Ls / 8.11) or five (9.50Ls / 13.52) days of travel. It is, however, possible that these rates may change in 2014 as the city is, at the time of writing, considering lowering rates for Riga residents, while increasing rates for non-residents. The tickets are valid for trams, trolleybuses and city buses. If you buy an e-talons ticket you have to press it up against the electronic ticket readers on the bus or tram. The green light will flash and the display will show you how many more rides are left on the card (e.g. Atlikums: 7). Note: all public transport will be free of charge on December 31 and January 1. Find more information in English at www.rigassatiksme.lv.
Car rental
40 - 50/day and an English-speaking driver can also be hired if you dont feel like sitting at the wheel. It also offers 24-hour reservation, unlimited mileage and free delivery to any Riga address. Q Open 24hrs. Avis Riga Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 73 53, rix@avis.lv, www.avis.lv. Avis rents all kinds of premium sedans including Audis, Volkswagens, Opels and Toyotas as well as SUVs and minivans. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun 09:30 - 20:30. Also at I-2, 11. novembra krastmala 29, tel. (+371) 67 22 58 76. Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A EgiCarRent Tel. (+371) 29 53 10 44, fax (+371) 63 02 63 39, www.egi.lv. This car hire company specialises in Volvos including Volvo S80s starting at as low as 27 per day. Free delivery to any destination in Riga. Q Open 24hrs. A Europcar H-2, Tora 4 - IIIC - 102, tel. (+371) 67 22 26 37, www.europcar.lv. Q Also at the airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 78 25. A RC Sixt Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 71 21, www.sixt.lv. With offices in over 105 nations, Sixt will have no trouble meeting your rental needs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Auto Tel. (+371) 29 58 04 48, www.carsrent.lv. Only
Ferries
(+371) 67 32 62 00, www.portofriga.lv. If youre travelling to Riga with Tallink from Stockholm then youll arrive here. Stena Line Tel. (+371) 67 79 69 00, www.stenaline. lv. Regular passenger and cargo ferries from Ventspils and Liepja to Travemnde, Germany and from Ventspils to Nynshamn, Sweden (60km from Stockholm). Tallink Silja Line B-2, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 00, www.tallinksilja.com. Tallink Silja Line provides regular ferry service between Riga and Stockholm with two modern ships. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Train station - Tunnel A). Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
Taxis
Run by the national airline airBaltic, this company is among the most reliable in Riga. Q Open 24hrs. A Lady Taxi Tel. (+371) 27 80 09 00, www.lady-taxi.lv. Its pink cabs are driven by female drivers. Q Open 24hrs. A
Riga Passenger Terminal B-3, Eksporta 3a, tel.
Baltic Taxi Tel. (+371) 20 00 85 00, www.baltictaxi.lv.
Tours & Travel

Area Tours Tel. (+371) 29 58 04 48. A jolly, Englishspeaking Latvian man will drive you anywhere in the Baltics with a car or van for as long as you like. Make your own itinerary and drive! Available day or night. Recommended. www.riga.inyourpocket.com
Riga In Your Pocket
GETTING AROUND
International bus schedule
From Dep 00:10 23:15 11:00 18:00 19:15 07:00 09:00 12:30 16:00 18:30 20:35 09:15 12:00 08:40 18:45 23:55 09:15 17:00 20:00 22:00 07:00 09:00 12:30 16:00 18:30 20:35 08:00 09:15 12:00 17:00 19:00 08:40 18:45 19:00 07:00 10:35 12:30 18:15 07:30 09:00 11:00 18:00 18:00 Riga Arr 08:55 08:50 16:35 23:40 11:30 09:35 11:35 14:55 18:25 21:05 23:05 11:45 14:30 21:15 07:15 12:20 22:00 07:00 08:00 10:00 11:25 13:25 16:55 20:25 22:55 00:50 12:15 13:35 16:30 21:20 23:45 12:35 22:40 22:55 10:55 15:00 17:00 22:15 11:15 13:00 15:00 22:05 05:10 City Kaliningrad* Kaliningrad** Kaunas** Kaunas** Moscow** Prnu* Prnu* Prnu* Prnu* Prnu* Prnu* Prnu** Prnu** St. Petersburg* St. Petersburg* St. Petersburg* St. Petersburg** St. Petersburg** St. Petersburg** St. Petersburg** Tallinn* Tallinn* Tallinn* Tallinn* Tallinn* Tallinn* Tallinn** Tallinn** Tallinn** Tallinn** Tallinn** Tartu* Tartu* Tartu** Vilnius* Vilnius* Vilnius* Vilnius* Vilnius** Vilnius** Vilnius** Vilnius** Warsaw** To Dep 23:30 23:00 15:05 05:30 21:00 07:50 08:50 10:20 17:50 18:55 20:20 08:10 18:20 00:15 11:55 21:40 07:55 10:00 21:30 22:40 06:00 07:00 08:30 12:45 16:00 18:30 06:30 09:30 13:15 16:15 19:00 05:20 16:45 06:30 06:30 12:30 16:10 18:30 02:20 07:30 12:00 16:30 21:40 Riga Arr 06:45 06:45 18:55 11:45 09:45 10:20 11:25 12:55 20:25 21:25 22:55 10:35 21:00 09:15 20:35 06:00 06:00 21:00 06:00 06:45 10:20 11:25 12:55 17:10 20:25 22:55 10:35 13:55 17:55 21:00 23:15 09:15 20:35 10:30 10:50 17:00 20:30 22:25 06:15 11:45 15:45 20:30 11:45
61
Buses run daily except where noted otherwise. * Indicates Lux Express ** Indicates ECOLINES Local buses depart frequently to destinations throughout Latvia (www.autoosta.lv). Schedule subject to change.
Trains
laukums, tel. (+371) 1181. Tickets for immediate departures have to be bought in the main ticket hall on the right side of the main entrance, counters N1 to 13. Tickets for international trains are sold at counters N1 to 6. Do not confuse perons (the platform) and ce (the track). They are numbered separately in Latvia and can be quite confusing. Pietur means stops and nepietur means doesnt stop, so if you see a train schedule with a list of towns and cities in the margin, it is best to check whether the train stops there or not. QOpen 05:00 - 24:00. Latvian Railways (Latvijas Dzelzce) D-4, Gogoa 3, tel. (+371) 1181/(+371) 67 23 11 81 (from abroad), www.ldz.lv.
Central Station (Centrl Stacija) D-4, Stacijas
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SHOPPING
If there were only two words to sum up the shopping experience in Latvia, they would have to be really expensive. Prices of imported goods tend to be inexplicably high, with simple things like a pair of Nike trainers costing in lats what they would in euro most anywhere else in Europe. Local crafts, food and alcohol, however, are still relatively cheap. Shops are scattered throughout Riga, with the highest number being concentrated around the Old Town and near the centre. Several shiny shopping centres have also sprouted up in and around Riga.
Christmas markets
Th e C a t h e d r a l S q u a r e Christmas market will be spreadin g h oliday ch eer o n H -1 , D o m a l a u k u m s (Cathedral Square) ever y day from 10:00 - 20:00 until January 12. Its the most authentic market in Riga and will offer dozens of crafts and food stalls, as well as a giant Christmas tree. Visitors can buy traditional Latvian gifts such as linen tablecloths, wool sweaters, socks and mittens, furry hats, ceramics, wooden toys, jewellery and other souvenirs. Local food like smoked fish, grey peas with bacon and sausages with sour kraut, not to mention gingerbread cookies, will also be available. The kids will have plenty to do because Santa Claus will visit the market every day. Mulled wine, grog and plenty of warm Black Balsams cocktails will be available to grown-ups as well as hot cocoa for the children. For more information visit www.vzt.lv. Another market will operate on H-2, Lvu laukums with red, white and blue striped stalls and a huge glass pavilion serving proper food and drink. Youll pay a little more for a hot cocktail here, but you can enjoy it next to a roaring fire in the centre of the room. Finally, yet another market will tempt holiday shoppers on the G-3, Esplande right next to the Orthodox Cathedral and the Riga 2014 culture and information centre. Much of the same Latvian crafts found at the other markets will be sold at the stalls here.
Alcohol & Beer

Latvijas Balzams I-2, Audju 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 88
14, www.lb.lv. Latvijas Balzams outlets throughout the city sell over 50 different alcoholic beverages including the famous Rga Black Balsam. Also sells Balzams t-shirts. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at H-2, u 16; H-2, Vau 21; D-4, Marijas 1; and many other locations. A Valmiermuias alus A-5, A. Brina 9a, tel. (+371) 25 47 34 73, www.valmiermuiza.lv. One of the nations best breweries has opened a shop in Riga where you can buy its best brews by the case, bottle or in plastic bottles poured from the tap. You can also purchase souvenir glasses as well as some locally produced eco-friendly snacks and sweets. It also rents kegs of beer for parties. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Antiques
Antiqua I-3, Vau 25, tel. (+371) 67 22 59 30. Lithographs, maps, paintings, sculpture, books, furniture and fine arts. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Komisijas veikals H & Partneris C-4, Trbatas 33/35, tel. (+371) 67 22 45 45. This shop lets people sell their wares here for a commission. You can find all manner of interesting items from antiques and collectibles to mink coats, porcelain and paintings.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Vsture B-5, aka 95, tel. (+371) 67 31 11 36. Take the stairs into the cellar of this 19th-century wooden building for antique books, postcards and periodicals. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Viss antkais D-2, Balasta dambis 3, tel. (+371) 20 04 44 30/(+371) 67 70 48 73, www.vissantikais.lv. Everything Antique is more of a warehouse than a shop. Youll find lots of furniture and chandeliers and some interesting paintings as well as nick-nacks for your home, not to mention old advertising posters, postcards and the odd antique map. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Volmar I-1, Krmu 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 78. Paintings, religious icons, porcelain, memorabilia and much more. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
Books
Globuss I-3, Vau 26, tel. (+371) 67 22 69 57, www. gramatnicaglobuss.lv. A large selection of of classic English-language literature as well as a some contemporary novels. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A Ja Sta C-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. (+371) 67 24 08 94, www.mapshop.lv. Latvias largest selection of maps and travel books, like In Your Pocket guides. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A RC Roberts Books C-4, Dzirnavu 51a, robertsbooksriga. com. Owned and operated by a Riga expat, this shop sells second-hand English language books. You can find anything from guidebooks and romance novels to award-winning contemporary literature. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Valters un Rapa H-3, Aspazijas 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 74 82, www.valtersunrapa.lv. This book shop on three floors is probably the biggest in the Baltics. Mostly Latvian and Russian books, as well as local maps and guides like this one and some literature in English and German. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A
Convenience stores
Narvesen G-3, Brvbas 32, tel. (+371) 67 28 74 02/ (+371) 80 00 85 85, www.narvesen.lv. This huge chain of convenience stores sells everything from public transport tickets and international press to snacks, candy, coffee, hot dogs and beer. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at C-4, Dzirnavu 74/76; H-2, u 8; and many other locations including the airport and train and bus stations. AS www.riga.inyourpocket.com
Have a mulled wine at one of three Christmas markets MZ
Riga In Your Pocket
SHOPPING
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SHOPPING
What to buy in Latvia
Amber The petrified sap isnt as plentiful as it is in Lithuania or Kaliningrad, but it still washes up on Latvian beaches. Its sold in all souvenir shops and there are dozens of amber stalls behind St. Peters Church, on Vau iela behind Hotel Riga and on Lvu laukums. Antiques You can find antique shops in and around Old Riga. If youre looking for good deals on old unpolished, unframed materials, try the shops on B/C-5, aka iela between ertrudes and Tallinas streets. Art Nouveau souvenirs Nothing screams Riga like a screaming gargoyle. Buy Art Nouveau silk scarves, postcards, ceramic dishes, books and plaster busts based on beautiful heads seen on the citys best early 20thcentury facades at Art Nouveau Riga, B-3 Strlnieku 9. Designer crystal and glassware Although Latvia is perhaps better known for its traditional ceramics, a new generation of local designers has produced beautiful bowls, plates and other glassware that are in keeping with modern design trends. You can find excellent examples by an&angel (www.angel.lv) at Lukabuka, Riija and Taste Latvia. Designer handbags Una Vita produces fashionable handbags made from llama, cow and goat leather and wild fox, beaver and mink furs that are legally harvested here in Latvia by local hunters. Visit Una Vita (D-5, Lpla 87E, www.unavita.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun) or its website for more information. Honey The Latvians revere their honey (medus) like the French do their wine and even claim that it has healing properties so taste some for free at The Honey Room (I-2, Pterbazncas 17. Open 10:00 - 19:00). Local food The following can be found in any supermarket: Latvian rye (rupjmaize) and sourdough (saldskbmaize) breads are delicious and easily transported. Latvian smoked cheese, carraway seed cheese and the Talsu ritulis marinated in herbs are all classic cheeses worth taking home. Sprats (protes) in oil, similar to sardines, are the perfect snack to go with the Latvian vodka you bought. Music Music is absolutely essential to Latvian life. Upe (I-2, Vgnera 5. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun) has the best selection of Latvian folk, rock and classical CDs in Riga as well as wooden toys and instruments. Riga Black Balzams Originally intended as a cure-all elixir, Balzams has been made in Riga since the late 18th century and is still used today to alleviate hangovers and stomach-aches and as the main ingredient in many local cocktails. Consisting of over 24 herbal ingredients, it looks like used motor oil and is sold in charming ceramic jugs. Try it in coffee or currant juice. Soviet memorabilia Cheap nick-knacks, coins, medals and busts of Lenin? Buy all the red remnants you crave in most antique shops around town. Sweets The Laima factory in Riga has been producing delicious chocolates since 1870. They can be found in any supermarket or at Laima shops around town. Gotias, or little cows, are another local treat that can be found at most supermarkets. Theyre essentially semisoft sweet cream based candy made with lots of sugar and packaged in colourful paper. Ask for them by name.
Ethnic & Exotic food

Elkor Food & Wine G-3, Brvbas 19, tel. (+371) 67 21 34 55, www.elkor.lv. This boutique supermarket specialises in both local and imported gourmet food and drink including chocolates, wine and spirits as well as bread, cheeses and meats. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Stambula (Istanbul) B-5, Brvbas 95. This shop and delicatessen specialises in imported food from Turkey including halal meats, sausages and cold cuts, olives, stuffed peppers, canned goods, beverages and plenty of sweets including Turkish delight. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Fashion
De avu I-3, Vau 39, tel. (+371) 67 21 35 80. This
fashion accessories. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Podium Brvbas 201, tel. (+371) 67 16 55 51, www. place sells vintage clothing, hand bags, jewellery and other
podium.lv. This department store specialises in name brand fashion such as Armani, Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Roberto Cavalli and many more. It also sells designer furniture and accessories for your home and kitchen. Take tram No.6 to the Rupnca VEF stop. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Flowers
Flower Market G-3, Trbatas 2a. The biggest market for flowers from near and far has been given a shiny new glass home at its usual location on Trbatas. Q Open 24hrs.
Games & Toys

Luks C-5, aka 72, tel. (+371) 67 31 18 48, www.
lacuks.lv. Barbie dolls, remote control cars, stuffed animals, a wide selection of puzzles, childrens in-line skates and much more on three floors. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also at Lielirbes 29 (Spice shopping centre). Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Gifts & Souvenirs

Amber Line H-2, Tora 4 (Jkaba kazarmas), tel. (+371) 67 32 50 58, www.amberline.lv. Designer amber jewellery for all budgets set in silver, gold, platinum, steel and even titanium. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Also at H-2, u 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 00 79; D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371) 67 07 39 31; H/1-2, Tirgou 17, tel. (+371) 67 21 52 86; Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 10 44 57; and four other shops on H-2, Tora 4 (Jkaba kazarmas). A ArtiChic H-2, Aldaru 5, tel. (+371) 27 88 82 92, www. artichic.eu. This shop specialises in cool fashion, accessories, gifts and souvenirs created by Latvian designers from baby clothes and felt boots to glassware and postcards. You can also enjoy a hot drink in this renovated medieval warehouse. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 20:00. JA Art Nouveau Riga B-3, Strlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 67 33 30 30, www.artnouveauriga.lv. The only shop in Riga to exclusively sell art nouveau merchandise. Buy small plaster faces from Rigas most famous facades, silk scarves with art nouveau designs, mugs, greeting cards, books and linens. Naturally, its located at the end of Alberta iela opposite the Riga Art Nouveau Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A RC Black Cat Souvenir Shop I-2, Maz Jaunavu 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 55 87. This souvenir shop located right next to the giant Egle beer garden sells a huge selection of Latvian gifts from handmade linens, ceramics and wool mittens and socks to glassware and amber as well as local arts and crafts. Just look for the enormous cat outside. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A www.riga.inyourpocket.com
Riga In Your Pocket
SHOPPING
Riija C-4, Trbatas 6/8, tel. (+371) 29 20 96 64, www. riija.lv. All of the linen clothing, felt slippers, ceramics and other nick-nacks sold at this upmarket design shop were created by Latvian artists and artisans and nearly all of the items come in varying shades of grey, beige and white. Definitely worth a look. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Sun. A
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Markets
Central Market J-3, Centrltirgus 1, tel. (+371) 67
22 99 85, www.centraltirgus.lv. This giant bazaar with its five huge aircraft hangars is a truly fascinating place to visit. Buy meat, fish and produce inside or CDs, appliances and clothing outside of the hangars for suspiciously low prices. Opening hours differ slightly for each pavilion. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Music
Upe H-2, Vgnera 5, tel. (+371) 67 22 61 19, www.upeveikals.lv, www.upett.lv. Upe, or river in English, is owned by local Latvian celebrity Ainars Mielavs. The shop sells folk music from around the globe including Latvian CDs as well as traditional instruments and souvenirs. The outlet on Vau is less touristy and sells lots of vinyl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at I-3, Vau 26, tel. (+371) 67 20 55 09. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
(opposite the Riga Art Nouveau Museum)
StrElnieku iela 9 +371 67 333 030
Shopping centres
tel. (+371) 67 50 23 10, www.bergabazars.lv. Rigas swankiest shopping courtyard offers high-end shops, restaurants, cafs, a fitness club and a food and antiques bazaar every second and fourth Saturday of the month. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A Elkor Plaza Brvbas 201, tel. (+371) 67 07 07 07, www.elkor.lv. This huge department store sells everything from name brand fashion and accessories to furniture, electronics and childrens toys. Take tram No.6 from Barona to the Rupnca VEF stop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Galleria Riga C-4, Dzirnavu 67, tel. (+371) 67 30 70 00, www.galleriariga.lv. This new downtown shopping centre on several floors offers dozens of shops never before seen in Latvia as well as a Rimi supermarket (08:00 - 23:00), a rooftop terrace right in the centre of Riga and a whole floor of restaurants and bars (10:00 - 01:00). QOpen 10:00 21:00. ALKW
Berga Bazrs C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas 13,
Supermarkets
www.gastronome.lv. The first boutique market and deli in Latvia. Buy exotic tea, gourmet coffee, imported cheeses, a fresh baguette, loads of spices, some paper-thin prosciutto and a kilo of prawns or just have a seat with a cappuccino and a slice of cake or a couple of macaroons. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at Krasta 68a (mc2 shopping centre), tel. (+371) 67 00 68 68. Open 10:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Stockmann I-3, 13. janvra 8, www.stockmann.lv. The deli counter is fantastic and the meat section actually offers real cuts of beef including steaks. It also stocks products you wont find anywhere else in Riga like Campbells soup, Stovetop stuffing and Betty Crocker cake and brownie mix. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A
Gastronome C-4, Brvbas 31, tel. (+371) 67 77 23 56,
Speciality shops
Buteljons B-5, Miera 10, tel. (+371) 26 32 93 08. This funky shop creates beautiful mugs and glasses from recycled wine, spirits and beer bottles. You can even bring your own bottles and have them transformed into practical, sustainable art here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Latvia Fan Shop A-4, Skanstes 21, latviafanshop.eu. This place sells official Kontinental Hockey League merchandise including Dynamo Riga gear as well as Latvian national football and hockey team jerseys. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. A Muhamors - Marcipns B/C-4, Bazncas 14 (entrance from Lpla), tel. (+371) 67 24 08 31/(+371) 29 14 67 10, www.muhamors.lv. Part caf, part art gallery and part souvenir shop, you can buy all kinds of funky things here like ceramic lamps that look like mushrooms, palm oil candles, buckwheat pillows and fashion accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A www.riga.inyourpocket.com
Kalnciema fair
The thoroughfare on the other side of the Vanu bridge is a treasure trove of 19th-century wooden architecture and although many of these old edifices could use some serious renovation work, the beautiful buildings at the corner of D-1, Melnsila and Kalnciema iela have been lovingly restored and now host a bustling fair every Saturday from 10:00 - 16:00 that attracts visitors from around Riga. Although the theme changes from fair to fair, you can expect plenty of food and drink, local crafts and a lively atmosphere. For more information visit www.kalnciemaiela.lv. Take bus No.53 from the National Theatre to the Melnsila iela stop.
66
SPORTS & LEISURE

Bowling
Zelta boulinga centrs E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371)
67 61 07 07, www.zelta.lv. 22 lanes for 5.99 - 10.49Ls (8.57 - 15)/hour, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/ restaurant. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Hockey: Dynamo Riga

The Kontinental (sic) Hockey League may not be as prestigious as the NHL in North America, but like most things Russian its scope is impressive. Spread out over a dozen time zones, the KHL also includes teams from beyond the borders of the Russian Federation like Dynamo Riga (Latvia), Lev Praha (Czech Republic) and Medveak Zagreb (Croatia) to name a few. All told, 28 teams from eight nations will compete in the 2013/2014 season. Many of the KHL teams have adopted Sovietera names, hence all of the dynamos, locomotives and metallurgists. Dynamo Riga didnt make the play-offs last year but they did win the first annual Nadezhda Cup (Cup of Hope), which essentially means that they were the best of the worst teams in the league. Home games take place at Arena Riga, A-4, Skanstes 21, www.arenariga.com. Tickets can be bought at the arena or at Bieu serviss (www.bilesuserviss.lv) outlets throughout the city. Tickets cost 3 - 60Ls / 5 - 86. Visit www.dinamoriga.eu for more information. Photo by Nienke Bos
Curling
Krlinga halle (Curling Hall) Biernieku 121h, tel. (+371) 29 53 53 79/(+371) 67 56 56 51, www.kerlingahalle.lv. Rigas only curling hall! Take trolleybus N18 from aka to the Eizenteina iela stop. Q Open 13:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun by appointment only.
Entertainment centres
Go Planet G. Astras 2b, tel. (+371) 67 14 63 46, www. goplanet.lv. Explore 15,000m2 of indoor attractions including go-karts, a laser tag labyrinth, a Formula 1 simulator, a 4D cinema, virtual reality gear, pool tables, childrens games and more. Three bars, a kids cafe and a restaurant are also at your disposal. Take trolleybus N17 or N23 from the Central train station to the Mbeu nams stop and walk up one block. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. A
Fitness clubs & Gyms

City Fitness C-4, Marijas iel 13/8 (Berga Bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 28 85 85, www.cityfitness.lv. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Also at D-2, Kuu 24 (Radisson Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 0611 24. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Joker klubs A-3, Katrnas 12, tel. (+371) 67 09 98 00, www.jokerklubs.lv. Although the gym is available from the early morning hours, the pool is usually only open from 10:00 and even later at the weekend. See website for exact times. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AC
Upcoming fixtures at Arena Riga December Date Time Game 1 17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. Atlant Moscow 4 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Lokomotiv Yaroslavl 6 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Severstal Cherepovets 8 17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. SKA St.Petersburg 13 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Traktor Chelyabinsk 28 17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. LEV Prague 29 17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. Slovan Bratislava January 13 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Admiral Vladivostok 15 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Metalurg Novokuznetsk 17 19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Sibir Novosibirsk 19 17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. Amur Khabarovsk
Saunas
Balt pirts B-6, Tallinas 71, tel. (+371) 67 27 17 33, www.baltapirts.lv. Opened in 1908, the White Sauna is owned and operated by an American-Latvian who happens to be a direct descendant of its founder. Both traditional Latvian and modern saunas are available as well as swimming pools, baths, a caf and English-speaking staff. A new restaurant called Tvaiks, or Steam, which is manned by a famous chef has also opened its doors on the premises. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Cashier open until one hour before closing.
Skating
You would think that a country so infatuated with hockey would have more places to actually play the sport. Unfortunately, Latvias existing halls are a bit overwhelmed and are often booked solid at all hours of the day and night. As we went to press this skating rink had not yet opened, so check its website or call before heading out to Krasta iela.
LIDO Skating Rink Krasta 76 (Lido Atptas Centrs), tel.
Cross-country skiers in Uzavaras Park
M.Zaprauskis
(+371) 67 50 44 20, www.lido.lv. The Lido Recreation Centre not only offers a huge outdoor skating rink, but also great Latvian food and beer as well as attractions for the kids. You can also rent penguins for the kids so they wont fall down on the ice as much. The skating is scheduled to open in December. Take bus N12 from the train station directly or trams N7 or 9 from Aspazijas to the LIDO stop and walk in the direction of the windmill. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (adults 1.50 - 2Ls (2.14 - 2.86)/hour; children 1 - 1.50Ls (1.42 - 2.14)/hour; skate rental 1Ls (1.42)/day) TILK
Riga In Your Pocket
SPORTS & LEISURE
67
Skiing & Snowboarding

As we went to press the following were not yet open. Check websites for local snow conditions.
Bobsleighing in Sigulda
The bobsleigh track in Sigulda, only an hours train ride from Riga, was completed in 1986 and the 1200m-long run regularly hosts international luge and skeleton competitions. For 35Ls / 50/person, visitors can take a ride in renovated Italian-made bobsleighs that were used in the Sarajevo Olympics. A professional driver is at the helm. For only 7Ls / 10/person you can try the orange foam rubber vuko which basically looks like something between a life raft and a torpedo, but can still reach speeds of 70km/h. The genuine bobsleigh gets closer to the 100km/h mark. The frog, or varde in Latvian, is also an option for 15Ls / 21/person. Unlike the vuko, this green contraption includes a plastic window in the front allowing its two passengers to lie down on their stomachs to see every inch of ice pass underneath their noses. Children over four (5Ls / 7.12/child) can also participate. Contact one of the companies below or just take a train to the Sigulda station at the weekend. Bobsleigh Track Sigulda, veices 13, tel. (+371) 29 18 53 51. QOpen Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Makars Tourism Agency Sigulda, Peldu 2, tel. (+371) 29 24 49 48, www.makars.lv. Riga Out There Tel. (+371) 29 38 94 50, www. traveloutthere.com. Offers daytrips to the bobsleigh track.Q A RC
Uzvaras Park Cross Country Track E-2, Uzvaras bulvris 15, tel. (+371) 29 51 12 44, www.uzvarasparks. lv. You can rent cross-country skis and boots and glide around the snow-covered lawn just beyond the massive Soviet Victory monument. An ice skating rink is also available. Take tram N10 from Grcinieku to either the Slokas iela or Arkdijas parks stop. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. agarkalns Csis, 90km from Rga, tel. (+371) 26 26 62 66, www.zagarkalns.lv. One of the best-developed places Latvia has to offer, agarkalns sports 14 slopes, t-bar ski lifts and two rope tows, a snowboard park, a cross-country skiing trail, equipment rental as well as ski/ snowboard instructors and a bar/caf. Check out their site for weather conditions, a live web cam and directions. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri 13:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (5 - 7Ls / 7 - 10 for 2 hours or 10 - 12Ls / 14 - 17 for the day) ALKD
Swimming pools
(+371) 67 75 56 36, www.akvaparks.lv. Latvias largest indoor water park offers a wave pool, childrens pool, water slides and other attractions as well as a poolside bar, saunas and hot tubs. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. TALDC Olympic Sports Centre A-4, Grostonas 6b, tel. (+371) 67 38 77 10, www.ocriga.lv. An Olympic-sized swimming pool is at your disposal every day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 22:00.
Lvu akvaparks Lielupe (Jrmala), Viestura 24, tel.
68
HEALTH & LIFESTYLE

Accountants & Auditors
ECB F-2, Antonijas 4, tel. (+371) 67 33 61 77, info@ecb. lv, www.ecb.lv. ECB is a full service accounting company that specialises in serving non-residents in Latvia. It offers fully certified, multilingual accountants and carries PI insurance for the benefit and security of its clients. SKA - Spigulis, Kukainis & Azanda H-2, Vau 3, tel. (+371) 28 39 03 46/(+371) 67 21 42 72, law@ska.lv, www.ska.lv. This law firm specialises in real estate purchases, sales, leasing and management and offers attorneys who are licensed in both the United States and Latvia and are completely fluent in English. The first consultation is free.
Toastmasters International
If like many people youd prefer a lengthy root canal sans anaesthesia to the prospect of giving a speech in front of a room full of people theres a way to learn this incredibly useful skill without humiliating yourself. Toastmasters International has been helping people gain confidence in public speaking since 1924 and as of 2012 a Riga club has also taken on the challenge in the Latvian capital. The club meets at 18:30 every first, third and fifth Wednesday of the month and anyone can join a meeting to see if the Toastmasters can help them evolve from a stuttering fool into a silver-tongued pro. Attendees often include local Riga members, expats and visiting business people. For more information visit www.toastmasters.lv.
Cleaners
Nivla C-4, Lpla 21 (entrance from Akas), tel.
(+371) 67 28 13 46. Wash your own clothes or just drop them off and have the staff do it for you. Also offer dry cleaning services. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Currency exchange
Most currency exchange booths (valtas maia), with a few exceptions, offer decent rates, but many banks and exchanges charge a ridiculous fee for any notes that are torn, dirty or marked.
Dentists
Adenta A-4, Skanstes 13, tel. (+371) 67 33 93 00, www.adenta.lv. Professional English-speaking staff. Also available at the weekend in emergencies. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Dzirnavu 96, tel. (+371) 67 24 34 55. Open 24hrs. Tavex B-3, Elizabetes 21A, tel. (+371) 67 20 55 33, www.tavex.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo shopping centre). Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Marika D/C-4, Brvbas bulv. 30, tel. (+371) 67 28 08 75. One of the few 24-hour exchanges in Riga. Q Also on C-4,
Massage
(2nd floor), tel. (+371) 67 29 89 51/(+371) 28 81 11 44, www.lifeveda.lv. This is the only authentic centre in the Baltic region to offer traditional Ajurvedic medicine, namely Ayurveda massages and treatments. Although these ancient holistic treatments command astronomical prices in other parts of Europe, the same are offered here by certified Indian therapists and doctors from Kerala for only a fraction of the cost. These exotic massages use specially medicated Indian Ayurvedic oils to relax and rejuvenate both your body and mind. You can also ask for a diet, health or lifestyle consultation by an Ayurveda specialist. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun by appointment only.
Life Veda Indian Ayurvedic Center C-5, Barona 56
Medical
ARS F-3, Skolas 5, tel. (+371) 67 20 10 07, www. ars-med.lv. English-speaking doctors. Listed opening hours are for the trauma centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. For a 24-hour medical consultaion call its hotline at tel. (+371) 67 20 10 03. Diplomatic Service Medical Centre C-4, Elizabetes 57, tel. (+371) 67 22 99 42, www.dsmc.lv. Englishspeaking doctors and dentists. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Saules aptieka B-4, Brvbas 68, tel. (+371) 67 50 69 27, www.saulesaptieka.lv. Q Open 24hrs. A
Pharmacies
BENU aptieka B-6, Tallinas 57b, tel. (+371) 67 31 42 11, www.benu.lv. Q Open 24hrs. Also at I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 01 80 59. Open 08:00 - 21:00; C-4, Brvbas 38, tel. (+371) 67 28 97 61. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Mness aptieka B-5, Brvbas 74, tel. (+371) 67 27 16 19, www.menessaptieka.lv. The one on Aspazijas is an American-style pharmacy where you can pick up over-thecounter medications from the shelves without consulting a pharmacist. Q Also at I-3, Aspazijas 20 (entrance from Audju), tel. (+371) 67 22 38 26. Open 24hrs A Riga In Your Pocket www.riga.inyourpocket.com
HEALTH & LIFESTYLE
69
EC
Discover a new way to relax at Rigas only Beer SPA. Have a beer massage, a beer bath or a beer sauna while you drink one of Latvias best brews in the centre of Riga.
Elizabetes iela 75, p: +371 67229889, +371 22088809 info@beerspa.lv; www.beerspa.lv
Spas
Attirance SPA C-4, Trbatas 14, www.attirancespa.lv,
attirance.lv/lv_en/spa. This day spa in the city centre provides modern body and facial treatments with special Latvian-made spa cosmetics and fragrances. A number of spa treatments such as massages, aromatic baths and other popular rituals are available for individuals or couples. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Beer SPA (Alus SPA) C-4, Elizabetes 75, tel. (+371) 67 22 98 89. If you think a day at the spa is something best enjoyed by women and metrosexuals, the people at Alus Spa might just change your mind. If you dont mind drinking delicious Valmiermuias brew from your own personal keg while soaking in a wooden tub full of hot water that includes most of the ingredients used to create beer, then this might be the unique local experience youve been looking for in Latvia. If the hot tub doesnt sound tempting, you can also try a traditional local sauna under the supervision of a professional or a beer massage. These options also involve beer drinking. Finally, if nothing else you can also enjoy a beer at the bar in the reception area. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AD ESPA Riga F-3, Bazncas 4a (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 71 52 22, www.espariga.com. ESPA Riga is the largest five-star spa in the Baltic and Scandinavian region. Hidden behind the beautiful facade of an historic art nouveau building, youll find six modern floors of swimming pools, saunas, treatment rooms, gyms and relaxation areas all of which include cutting-edge design and technology. Luxurious changing facilities are also at your disposal as well as a caf serving healthy dishes and a shop selling the ecofriendly natural ESPA products that are used in treatments at the spa. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. AFKDC
Foreign representations
For a complete list of foreign embassies and consulates in Riga including opening hours visit www.mfa.gov.lv/en/ mission/?lv=0&type=1&riga=on.
Canada B-4, Bazncas 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 81 39 45, Japan B-4, Vesetas 7 (Rietumu Capital Centre), tel. Korea F-2, J. Alunna 2, tel. (+371) 67 32 42 74. Norway H-2, Kau 15, tel. (+371) 67 81 41 00, www.
(+371) 67 81 20 01, www.lv.emb-japan.go.jp. riga@international.gc.ca, www.latvia.gc.ca.
norvegija.lv. Sweden F-2, A.Pumpura 8, tel. (+371) 67 68 66 00, www.swedenabroad.com/riga. United States of America Samnera Velsa 1, tel. (+371) 67 10 70 00, riga.usembassy.gov.
Let it all hang out this winter!
M.Zaprauskis
70
OLD RIGA MAP
Riga In Your Pocket
Sweden Russia United Kingdom Turkey
Riga Congress Centre
Latvian National Museum of Art
Esplande Park
Georgia
Orthodox Cathedral
France
Netherlands
Riga Castle
Freedom Monument
Germany
Aldaru iela
Slovakia Denmark Norway
National Opera Riga Cathedral

Italy
St. Peters Church Blackheads House
Riga Bus Station
Central Market
China
Lithuania
Riga Passenger Terminal
Riga Art Nouvea
Portugal
Riga Congress Centre
Riga Castle
Fre Mo
Railway Museum
Romania
ga Art Nouveau Museum
Latvian National Museum of Art
Freedom Monument National Opera
Puppet Theatre
Riga Central Station
Central Market Academy of Sciences
N. Barkna
74
INDEX
Agency Lilija Plus 24 Agency STES Latvia 24 Akhtamar 26 Albert Hotel 20 ALEhouse 48 Alus arsenls 36 Aparthotel RigaApartment 20 Apartments Valdemra 24 Aqua Luna 40 Aragats 26 Art Hotel Laine 23 Astor 33 Astor Riga Hotel 20 Aussie Backpackers Pub 49 Avitar 23 Bangkok 40 Bnzis 49 B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude 24 Benjamins 40 Bergs Restaurant 28, 40 Bibliotka No 1 Restorns 41 Bites Blues Club 48 Bombardier Bar 51 Bonra 30 Bon Vivant 49 Boulangerie Bonjour 28 Brlis 49 Cadets de Gascogne 27 Caif Cafe 30 etri Balti Krekli 48 Charlestons 28 Charlie Pizza 32 Ciros Pomodoro 35 Coco Loco 47 Colombo 33 Coyote Fly 46 Crazy Donuts 30 Cuba Caf 47 C.U.T. 33 dADa 26 Da Sergio 35 Depo 46 Dipro 40 Doma Hostel 25 Donegans Pub 49 D'vine 46 EcoCatering Telpa 38 Esplande 33 Europa Royale Riga 20 Fazenda 28 Folk Club Ala 36, 48 Fontaine Delisnack Riga 30 Forums 23 Gan Bei 27 Garage 34 Gastronome 38 Gauja 42 Get Smart Caf 42 Ghetto Burger 30 Golden 48 Greenwood 42 HE's 41 Himalaju-zijas virtuve 27 Honkonga 29 Hotel Bergs 20 Hotel Gutenbergs 21 Hotel Multilux 24 Hotel Neiburgs 20 I love you 42 Index Caf 28 Indian Raja 33 Indian Tikka House 33 Innocent Caf 30 Jakob Lenz Guesthouse 24 Jockey Club 45 Just 47 Kama 40 Olympic Voodoo Karavella Hotel 23 Casino 46 Khinkali 32 Omas briljants 44 KHL Sports Bar 51 Osriss 28 K|I|D 28 Paddy Whelan's Irish Kilimanjaro 39 Pub & Sports Bar nieu Bistro 29 35, 51 Kiwi Bar 38, 42 Pelmei XL 29 Klondaika Pieci Vilki 44 40, 46, 48, 50 Piens 47 Kotai 40 Pinot 41 KOYA 34 Piramda 41 Krogs Aptieka 42 Pizza Lul 50 La Belle poque 51 Planeta Sushi 36 Labi 45 Pulkvedim Neviens Labietis 45 Neraksta 47 La Boheme 41 Radisson Blu La'pas 34 Daugava Hotel 21 La Rocca Revolution Radisson Blu 46 Elizabete Hotel 21 Lauvas Nams 50 Radisson Blu Hotel Leningrad 42 Latvija 21 LIDO atptas centrs Radisson Blu 36 Ridzene Hotel 20 LIDO Dzirnavas 36 Radi un Draugi 22 Lidojo Varde 50 Red Nose Hostel 25 LIDO Krievu Sta 38 Ribs & Rock 28 LIDO Spice 36 Riga Airport Hotel LIDO Vrmantis 36 ABC 23 Lvu krodzi 50 Riga Hostel 25 Lobby Bar 44 Riga Old Town Hostel Madride 39 25 Mkonis 34 Riga Out There 48 Meln Bite 36 Rgas Balzams 44 MiiT 40 Riga Weekend 48 Moloney's Pub Rigensis 27 35, 50 Rocabilly 44 Monhe Negro 36 Runcis 50 Monika Centrum aliki Mangaos 39 Hotel 21 S. Brevinga Alus un Muffins and More 30 Viskija Brs 50 Mene 26 S|E|B Daily Caf 29 Nabaklab 46 efpavrs Vilhelms NB 48 29 Olive Oil Trading Co 35 Shot Caf 44 Sites un dilltes 39 SKbene 45 Skanste 25 Skyline Bar 47 Small Pizza 32 Sokrats 34 Spa Caf 28 Steiku Haoss 40 Street Burgers 30 Sveiks, veik! 30 Sweetday Caf 28 Tallink Hotel Riga 22 Tvocis Vaa 38 The Club 47 The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers 25 The Trinity Bar 35 Tikai karotes 39 Tinto 28, 46 Traktieris 38 Trs vri laiv 45 Uzbekistna 28 Vairk Saules 34 Varzoba 28 Victory Pub 48, 50 Viesistaba Vintage 34 Vna Studija 46 Wellton Centrum Hotel & SPA 22 Wellton Elefant Hotel 22 Wellton Gertrude Hotel 22 Wellton Old Riga Palace 23 Wellton Terrace Design Hotel 23 Wok to Walk 27 Yo Yo 32 Zapte 51 Ze Donats 30
Old Riga map street register

11. novembra krastmala I-1/J-2 13. janvra I/J-3 Akl H-1 Akmens tilts J-1 Alberta laukums I-3 Aldaru H-2 Alksnja I-2 Alunna F-2 Amatu H-2 Angliku H-1 Arsenla H-1 Aspazijas bulv. H/I-3 Atgrieu H-1 Audju I-2/3 Barona H-3 Basteja bv. (Z.A. Meierovica) G/H-2 Bskapa gte I-1 Brvbas G/H-3 Citadeles F/G-1 Doma laukums H-1 Elizabetes F-3 Freedom Mon. H-3 Gleznotju H/I-2 Grcinieku 1/2 Herdera lauk. H-1 Inenieru H-3 Ja I-2 Ja sta I-2 Jaunavu H/I-2 Jauniela H/I-1 Jkaba G/H-1 Jkaba lauk. G-1 Jeruzalemes F-3 Kalju I-2/3 Kau H/I-2 Kalpaka bv. G-2/3 niu H-2 Klostera H-1 Konventa Sta I-2 Krmu I-1/2 Kronvalda bv. F/G-1 Kungu I-2 Laima clock H-2 Laipu H-2 Lvu laukums H-2 Mrstau I/J-2 Maz Miesnieku H-1 Maz Montu H/I-2 Maz Muzeja H-1 Maz Pils H-1 Maz Smilu H-2 Maz Troku H-1 Meistaru H-2 Merea G/H-3 Miesnieku H-1 Minsterejas J-2 Mucenieku H-2 Muitas G-1 Mku H-1 Palasta I-1 Pasta J-2 Peitavas I-2 Peldu I-2 Pterbazncas I-2 Pils H-1 Pils laukums H-1 Prgas J-3 Pumpura F-2 Radio I-3 Raia bulvris G-2/H-3 Rtslaukums I-1/2 Reimersa G-2 Rdzenes I-3 Rozena H-1 Skru I-2 u H-2 Smilu H-1/2 Strlnieku laukums I-1 Tetra I-2/3 Tirgou H/I-2 Tora G-1/H-2 Troku H-2 densvada I-2 Vgnera H/I-2 Valdemra G-1/F-2/3 Vau H-2/I-3 Vecpilstas I-3 Vingrotju F-2 Z.A. Meierovica (Basteja bulvris) G/H-2 Zirgu H-2 Bus Station J-3 Riga Info Centre I-2 Freedom Monument H-3
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Riga 2014 Eurozone

THE OFFICIAL TRAVEL GUIDE OF

N106 - 2Ls / 2.85 www.riga.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 10

20 Beds for backpackers and business executives 26

Restaurants & Cafs

List of small features

Maps & Index

December 2013 - January 2014

Europe In Your Pocket

Riga In Your Pocket

Riga Card Office Tel./fax (+371) 67 21 72 17, info@rigacard.lv, www.rigacard.lv. Q www.riga.inyourpocket.com

December 2013 - January 2014

Latvia facts & Figures

Health & Safety

Reserve a hotel room at www.riga.inyourpocket.com

Riga In Your Pocket

Riga Tourist Information Centre

December 2013 - January 2014

CULTURE & EVENTS

Music & Events

Forum Cinemas I-3, 13. janvra 8, www.forumcinemas.

Clubs & Other venues

etri Balti Krekli I-3, Vecpilstas 12, tel. (+371) 67 21

Latvian Ethnographic Museum (Latvijas etnogrfiskais brvdabas muzejs) Brvbas gatve

Riga In Your Pocket

CULTURE & EVENTS

Music & Events

Music & Events

December 2013 - January 2014

CULTURE & EVENTS

Opera & Ballet

Jan 1 - 12 10:00 20:00 3 - 5, 15:00 11 12 4 - 5, 12:00 11 12 4 12:30

19:30 20:00 22:00 20:00

Riga In Your Pocket

CULTURE & EVENTS

Opera & Ballet

Ticket Paradise (Bieu paradze) G-1, Kronvalda

December 2013 - January 2014

CULTURE & EVENTS

Riga 2014 events

09 19.07 03.09 04 21.09 14 18.11

Riga In Your Pocket

CULTURE & EVENTS

Reveal Riga H-2, Aldaru 5, www.revealriga.lv. Located in

Opera & Theatres

Latvian National Opera (Latvijas Nacionl Opera)

December 2013 - January 2014

CULTURE & EVENTS

Riga In Your Pocket

CULTURE & EVENTS

December 2013 - January 2014

Cream of the crop

W Free wireless internet RC Riga Card discounts

Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel G-3, Reimersa 1, tel.

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WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE

Monika Centrum Hotel B-3, Elizabetes 21, tel. (+371)

Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel D-2, Kuu 24, tel.

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