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Stylelines

. CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE

INTRODUCTION

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. Classic Princess Styleline Variations

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ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLELINE

PANEL STYLELINE

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Armhole Princess Styleline Variations

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. Panel Styleline Variations

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6

chapter

121

122

Chapter 6

122 Chapter 6 INTRODUCTION Stylelines fall into two classifications: those that cross over the bust and

INTRODUCTION

Stylelines fall into two classifications: those that cross over the bust and those that do not. Stylelines discussed in this chapter are those crossing over the bust, replacing dart legs with style seams. Stylelines that absorb dart excess within stitchlines control the fit of the garment and are called dart equiva- lents, as discussed in the corollary for Principle #1, Dart Manipulation. The original size and fit of the garment remain the same, even though the shapes of the pattern pieces have been changed through manipulation. Stylelines not crossing bust point are not dart equivalents. The panel design included in the chap- ter represents this type and clarifies the difference between the two styleline types. For facing instruc- tions, see Chapter 16. Other design variations are illustrated throughout the text.

CLASSIC

STYLELINE

PRINCESS

The classic princess should be developed and per- fected as a seamless working pattern. It is a popular base for other design variations. Seams are added as a guide for all stylelines (see page 125).

are added as a guide for all stylelines (see page 125). Design Analysis The classic princess

Design Analysis

The classic princess is distinguished by a styleline that starts at the front and back waist darts, contin- ues over bust points and shoulder blades, and ends at mid-shoulder dart of the back (position of dart point can vary to improve styleline). Stylelines (dart equivalents) replace darts. The design can be based on the one- or two-dart pattern. (The two-dart pat- tern is illustrated.) The puff sleeve is illustrated in Chapter 14.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front Bodice

Trace front of two-dart pattern.

Draw styleline from mid-shoulder (in line with back shoulder dart) to bust point and from bust point to dart leg at waist.

Crossmark for ease control notches, 2 inches above and below bust point.

Draw slash line from bust point to dart point of side dart.

Figure 1 FRONT 2 " Bust point 2 "
Figure 1
FRONT
2 "
Bust point
2 "

STYLELINES

123

Figure 2 Separate Pattern

Crossmark 3/4 inch from bust point (new pivot point). Label X.

Cut and separate pattern along styleline.

Figure 2 X 3/4 " SIDE FRONT FRONT
Figure 2
X
3/4 "
SIDE FRONT
FRONT

Figure 4 Shaping Styleline

Retrace side front panel.

Shape bust curve, as shown. (Broken lines repre- sent original shape of panel.)

Figure 4

1/16 "
1/16 "

Blend

1/8 " Draw inward curve

SIDE FRONT

Figure 3 Side Bust Ease

Cut slash line from bust point and dart point to, not through, point X.

Close side dart legs. Tape. (This provides ease for the side bust.)

Figure 3 X Close
Figure 3
X
Close

SIDE FRONT

Figure 5 Adding Additional Ease

Developing designs from a one-dart pattern or if more ease is needed, slash from bust point to side seam and spread 1/4 inch or more. Retrace, blend, and shape. See Figure 4.

Figure 5

SIDE FRONT Cut and spread

SIDE FRONT

Cut and spread

124

Chapter 6

Figure 6 Optional Front Panel Shaping

To shape front panel, place side panel on top of front panel, matching waist and bust points.

Trace side panel curve to front panel from waist to bust. Blend. (Broken line represents original shape of front panel and pattern underneath.)

Adjust ease control notches on side front panel when walking the patterns.

Figure 6 Front panel Side front panel Shape
Figure 6
Front panel
Side front panel
Shape

Figure 8

Cut and separate pattern pieces.

Front and back classic princess patterns are com- plete as seamless for use as a working pattern.

Figure 7 Back Bodice

Trace back pattern.

Place skirt curve on the shoulder dart leg and waist dart point and draw the princess line.

Shift shoulder dart point to the styleline and re- draw dart legs. (Broken line indicates original dart.)

Crossmark dart points on styleline.

Figure 7 Move dart point BACK
Figure 7
Move
dart
point
BACK
Figure 8 BACK SIDE BACK
Figure 8
BACK
SIDE BACK

STYLELINES

125

Figure 9 Completed Pattern

Complete the pattern, as shown.

• Center grainlines on side panels. Figure 9 Paper FRONT BACK SIDE BACK SIDE FRONT
• Center grainlines on side panels.
Figure 9
Paper
FRONT
BACK
SIDE
BACK
SIDE FRONT

Classic Princess Styleline Variations

The following designs are based on the classic princess. Generate patterns for these designs or create other vari- ations for practice. Use the classic princess if you are an advanced student, or develop the design from the ba- sic pattern. Remember, draw stylelines on the pattern exactly as they appear on the design. The finished pattern shapes should result in perfect representations of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again.

of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again. Design 1 Design

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

Design 4

Design 5

126

Chapter 6

ARMHOLE

STYLELINE

PRINCESS

126 Chapter 6 ARMHOLE STYLELINE PRINCESS Design Analysis The armhole princess design is a variation of

Design Analysis

The armhole princess design is a variation of the classic princess and features a styleline that curves from the bust point in front and the shoulder blades in back to about mid-armhole. The design is devel- oped from a two-dart pattern with side dart trans- ferred to mid-armhole as a curved dart (styleline).

Figure 2 Back

Trace and cut back pattern. Transfer the shoulder dart excess to mid-armhole. It will be absorbed into the styleline.

Draw a line 2 inches up from dart point of waist dart and crossmark for notch.

Repeat styleline instructions, placing guideline from crossmark to mid-armhole.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front

Trace and cut front pattern.

Draw line from waist and side dart points to bust. Crossmark 3/4 inch from bust point. Label X.

Draw a straight guideline from bust point to mid- armhole. (Position can vary along armhole.)

Mark 3/8 inch up at mid-point of guideline.

Draw curved stylelines from mid-armhole to bust point. Extend dart legs from waist to bust point.

Crossmark 2 inches above and below bust point for ease control notches.

Figure 1 FRONT 3/8 " 2 " Bust point X 2 "
Figure 1
FRONT
3/8 "
2 "
Bust point
X
2 "
Figure 2 BACK 3/8 " Blend 2 "
Figure 2
BACK
3/8 "
Blend
2 "

STYLELINES

127

Figure 3 Front

Cut and separate pattern along styleline.

Figure 3 FRONT X SIDE FRONT
Figure 3
FRONT
X
SIDE FRONT

Figure 5 Back

Cut and separate pattern along styleline.

To remove dart excess from mid-armhole, draw the dart’s length and width along styleline of back panel (broken line) and trim excess from the pattern.

Figure 5 Close BACK Blend
Figure 5
Close
BACK
Blend
Trim

Trim

SIDE BACK
SIDE
BACK

Figure 4 Side Panel

Complete the side panel using the princess in- struction for shaping styleline (see page 123, Figure 4).

Figure 4 X Ease Close 1/16 " 1/8 " draw inward curve
Figure 4
X
Ease
Close
1/16 "
1/8 " draw
inward curve

SIDE FRONT

Figure 6 Trueing and Blending

True pattern panels, starting from styleline at waist and ending at armhole. If panels do not true at armhole, add paper to the shortened panel at armhole. Tape both sides securely.

Blend armhole, adding to shorter side and trim- ming longer side equally, as shown.

Figure 6 BACK Trim Add SIDE BACK
Figure 6
BACK
Trim
Add
SIDE BACK

128

Chapter 6

Armhole Princess Styleline Variations

The practice designs are based on the armhole princess. Design or create other variations. The fin- ished pattern shapes should result in perfect repre-

Design 1

Design 2

sentations of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again. When plotting the pattern, re- member that lines are drawn on the working pattern exactly as they appear on the design. Develop the de- signs using the two-dart pattern. (Advanced students may want to use the armhole princess pattern.)

Design 3

Design 4 Design 5
Design 4
Design 5

STYLELINES

129

PANEL

STYLELINE

The panel styleline is not a dart equivalent because it does not pass through the bust point. The existing darts control fit of the garment.

bust point. The existing darts control fit of the garment. Design Analysis The panel styleline extends

Design Analysis

The panel styleline extends from the waist to mid- armhole of the front and back bodice without pass- ing through bust point. A short side dart intercepts the panel styleline. The panel styleline can be varied to create other designs.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figures 1 and 2

Trace front and back two-dart patterns and all markings.

Trace front and back patterns.

Draw slash lines to bust point.

Mark mid-armhole location.

Draw panel stylelines from waist and end 1/2 inch from front and back mid-armhole.

Draw a curved line to the armholes.

Figure 1

1/2 " FRONT To mid- armhole Slash Bust pt. Slash Styleline
1/2 "
FRONT
To mid-
armhole
Slash
Bust pt.
Slash
Styleline

Half distance

Figure 2

Styleline 1/2 " BACK To mid- armhole Notches
Styleline
1/2 "
BACK
To mid-
armhole
Notches

Half distance

130

Chapter 6

Figure 3

Separate back pattern pieces along styleline.

Draw 1-inch extension at center back.

Figure 3 1 " BACK Back panel
Figure 3
1
"
BACK
Back
panel

Figure 5

To eliminate the side seam, place the front and back panels together and tape.

Extend the grainline through the center of the panels.

Mark notches at waist and armhole.

Complete pattern for test fit.

Figure 4

Separate front pattern along styleline.

Close dart legs on front side panel and notch at the location.

Close dart legs on front side panel. Complete dart leg, as shown.

Figure 4 FRONT 1/2 " Bust point Close Front panel Close
Figure 4
FRONT
1/2 "
Bust point
Close
Front
panel
Close
Figure 5 Notch Side panel
Figure 5
Notch
Side panel

Notch

STYLELINES

131

Panel Styleline Variations

The practice designs are based on the panel pattern. Generate patterns for the designs or create other variations using the basic pattern. Advanced pat- ternmakers may use the panel pattern to develop

the design. When plotting, draw stylelines exactly as they appear on the design. The finished pattern shapes should result in perfect representations of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again.

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3 Design 4
Design 1
Design 2
Design 3
Design 4