chapter

Added Fullness
(Principle #2)
ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE #2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Three Types of Added Fullness . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Identifying Added Fullness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Fullness on the Princess Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust . . . . . . . . .136 Added Fullness to a Dart Leg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Gathers on a Style Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Fullness to Insets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 Added Fullness Design Variations . . . . . . . . . .140 BLOUSON FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Modified Blouson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 Blouson with Increased Fullness . . . . . . . . . . . .143

132

ADDED FULLNESS

133

ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE #2

Principle. To increase fullness in a garment to an amount greater than the dart excess provides, the length and/or width within the patterns frame must be increased by slashing and spreading where fullness is needed. Corollary. Adding to the outside of the patterns frame increases the amount of fabric in a garment and can change the silhouette.

Three Types of Added Fullness

To add fullness, the working pattern is increased in one of three ways: Equal fullness. Opposite sides of a pattern are spread equally, increasing fullness to top and bottom.
One-sided fullness

Equal fullness

Unequal fullness

One-sided fullness. One side of a pattern is spread to increase fullness, forming an arc shape at the top and bottom.

Unequal fullness. One side of the pattern is spread more than the other, forming an arc shape at the top and bottom.

Compare the silhouette differences between the design and the basic garment when adding fullness.

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Chapter 7
Figure 1

Identifying Added Fullness

Fullness from the basic dart is always directed to the bust. Therefore, designs can be identified as having added fullness if fullness passes through the length or width of the garment (Figure 1), when fullness is directed away from the bust (Figure 2), and when the garment extends beyond the outline of the figure (Figure 3). Fullness may appear in the form of gathers, pleats, drape, cowls, or flares. Fullness can be on the horizontal or vertical, or at an angle, and can be developed as equal, unequal, or one-sided fullness. The dart may become part of added fullness when needed. Added fullness may be combined with Dart Manipulation (Principle #1) and Contouring (Principle #3). (Examples of this will be illustrated throughout the text.) The patternmaker determines the type of fullness required by the way the sketch is rendered. When the patternmaker is unsure of the designers intent, it is best to ask before developing the pattern.

Figure 2

Method for Plotting the Pattern for Added Fullness

Added fullness is plotted as a series of straight slash lines drawn across the pattern in the direction the fullness appears on the design (horizontally, vertically, or on an angle). When preparing the pattern, the beginning and end of each slash line depend on where the fullness begins and ends on the design. The dart excess is often absorbed into the added fullness.

Formula for Adding Fullness

To determine the amount of added fullness desired, give consideration to the fabric type. Light-weight and loosely woven fabrics (cottons and chiffons, for example) may require more fullness than bulky, closely woven fabrics. Using a 26-inch waist as an example, added fullness may equal: One and one-half times the measurement (26 13 39) Two times the measurement (26 26 52) Two and one-half times the measurement (26 26 13 65) To help train the eye in visualizing different amounts of fullness, make examples, using 10 inches as the measure to be increased. Follow the formula for each example. The finished length of each sample should be 10 inches. Save the examples for use when determining fullness.

Figure 3

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135

Fullness on the Princess Line

Design 2 Design 1

Figures 2, 3 Draw grain guidelines on paper. Cut through slash lines separating patterns. Place cut pattern parts on paper with center front on fold. Match grainline of pattern with guideline. Spread equally using the ratio 1 1/2:1 or 2:1 (shaded area). Secure pattern parts. Trace outline of pattern and blend styleline. Draw grainline and complete for test fit.

Figure 2
Paper

Guideline FRONT

Design Analysis: Design 1

The princess is gathered on each side of styleline from waist to under bust and at front side seam, indicating parallel fullness. Design 2 is for practice.
Figure 3
1 Guideline

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace front and side front princess panels. Include grainline. The basic back is not illustrated. Draw slash lines where the gathers indicate. Number each section and cut from paper.
Figure 1
2

SIDE FRONT 4 1

Center front

Slash Slash Slash

1 2 3 4

Slash 1 Slash 2 Slash 3 4 Princess Front

Princess Side Front

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Chapter 7

Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3

Design Analysis
A short styleline above the bust of Design 2 controls gathers that end at mid-armhole. One-sided fullness is indicated. Designs 1 and 3 are is given for practice.
Figure 1

FRONT Mid-armhole Slash X

Slash Slash Slash

Slash

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace front bodice. Square from center front to mid-armhole. Square a slash line to dart point. Label X. Draw slash lines in the direction fullness falls and cut pattern from paper. Figure 2 (Added Fullness and Dart Excess Interact) Cut from mid-armhole to point X and from bust point to point X, separating pattern. Close waist dart, overlapping dart point 3/4 inch. Fullness created by the spread areas next to bust compensates for any loss of measurement due to overlap. Cut remaining slash lines to, not through, waist. Place on paper and spread each slash 3/4 inch. Trace patterns outline and blend. Draw grainline and complete for test fit using basic back pattern.
Figure 2

FRONT
X

Ble

nd
3/4 " overlap

Close

ADDED FULLNESS

137

Added Fullness to a Dart Leg

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3

Figure 2 Slash dart legs to bust point. Close waist dart. Dart leg is shaped to contour the bust. Cut pattern from paper. Draw slash lines.
Figure 2
Trim 1/4 "

FRONT

1/2 "

1/2 "

Design Analysis: Design 1

Analyze the design and plot of the patterns.
Trim 1/4 "

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figures 1a, b Remove dart excess from shoulder. Plot the front and back design as indicated. Trim excess. Back-trim shoulder
Figure 1a 1 1/4 " Figure 1b 1/4 " Trim 3" Trim 1 1/4 "
FRONT

Figure 3 Cut slash lines to, not through, side seam. Spread a 2:1 ratio (trace and blend).

Figure 3

BACK FRONT

X 3"

1"

Measure to secure gathers

Gathers

Fold

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Chapter 7
Figure 1 1 1/4 " 1 1/4 "

Gathers on a Style Dart

Design 1 Design 2

Trim

3 1/2 " Move 1"

Figure 2

Design Analysis: Design 1

Gathers
FRONT

The bust point is 1 inch from the original location. The gathers are directed away from the bust (onesided added fullness). Design 2 is for practice.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace front pattern and redraw curved dart leg 1 inch from bust point. Square a line from center front 3 1/2 inches up from bust level that equals bust span. From this point draw a curved dart leg to dart point, and to the shoulder 1 1/4 inch from neck. Extend shoulder 1 1/4 inch and draw a curve line passing through mid-armhole to the styleline. Draw slash lines and trim shaded area of the neckline. Figure 2 Cut style dart to shifted bust point and close waist dart. (One dart leg will not meet the waistline.) Blend waist at the finish of the pattern. Cut slash lines to, not through, shoulder. Spread slash lines to a ratio of 2:1. Figure 3 Trace the back pattern. Draw and trim the neckline. Extend shoulder 1 1/4 inch. Complete the patterns for a test fit.
Figure 3 1 1/4 " 3/4 " Trim

Close and blend

1 1/4 " Extend BACK

1"ext.

Fold

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139

Fullness to Insets
Design 1 Design 2

Figure 2 Cut inset band from pattern. Cut slash lines to, not through, patterns outline or bust point. Close dart legs. Spread added fullness as desired. Trace and blend the spread area.
Figure 2
Band

Fold

Blend

Design Analysis: Design 2

Gathers follow the edge of the inset band. Dart excess (gathers) is directed to bust level. The remaining gathers indicate one-sided added fullness.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace front pattern. Draw inset band 1 1/2 inches wide. Draw three slash lines from bust to band 2 inches up from center front. Notch. Draw other slash lines as indicated. Cut pattern from paper.
Figure 1 1 1/2"
Close

Figures 3a and b Back: Trace back and draw inset band. Extend 1 inch at center back. Separate patterns, draw grainline, mark notches and complete the patterns for a test fit.

Figure 3a 2" Band 1 1/2 "

Figure 3b
Band

BACK

BACK

1" extension

Cut on fold

Center back

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Chapter 7

Added Fullness Design Variations

The practice designs are based on added fullness. Develop patterns for each design, or design other variations for practice. Which design requires an add-on for fullness? The finished garment should look like the design. If it does not, locate the problem and try again. Pattern development for Design 3 may be viewed on the DVD, by page and design numbers.

Design 2

Design 1

Design 4

Design 3

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141

BLOUSON FOUNDATION
A blouson is a billowy-topped garment with an overhang anywhere from below the bust to the ankle. The blousing is controlled (held in place) by one of the following methods: Lining cut shorter than the finished length of the outer part (Design 3). Belt secures blouson to waist (Design 1). Casing accommodates elastic or drawstring (within the garments frame). A band, attached below the separate blouse measuring less than hip measurement (Design 2).

The blouson foundation is developed by adding length and width to the pattern within its frame and at its outline. This is an application of Principle #2, combined with manipulation of the existing dart excess (Principle #1). To determine the amount of length added for the overhang, add twice the amount desired. For example, for a 1 1/2-inch overhang, add 3 inches to the existing length. Blouson Designs 1, 2, and 3 are but a few examples of this style. Design 1 illustrates modified fullness. Included is a method for increasing fullness. Designs 2 and 3 are practice designs.

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

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Chapter 7 Measure out 1 1/2 inches or more at front and back side seams. Draw line from hem to armhole. To true side dart of front, fold dart and draw line from hem to armhole (see page 10). Complete pattern for test fit.

Modified Blouson
Pattern Plot and Development
Figures 1 and 2 Trace front two-dart pattern and back. Measure down 1 1/2 inches or more from front and back waistline. Draw a parallel line across the hem for overhang, creating a blouson effect. Square up from hem to armhole.

Figure 1

Figure 2

BACK BLOUSON

FRONT BLOUSON

1 1/2 " for 3/4 " blouson 1" extension

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143

Blouson with Increased Fullness

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figures 1 and 2 Trace front and back patterns. Include the back horizontal balance line (HBL). Add to preferred length. Draw slash lines from front and back waist to approximately 3 inches up from armhole curve (Figure 1). Draw slash line from dart points of waist and shoulder darts to a joining point at the back HBL (Figure 2).
Figure 1

Figures 3 and 4 Cut slash lines to, not through, armhole (front) and pivotal point (back). Close back shoulder dart. Place patterns on paper and spread slash sections 1 1/2 inches (varies). Secure pattern and trace. Add 1 inch at the side seam of back pattern to balance the fullness between back and front. Add desired length (example: 2 inches below waist for 1-inch overlay). Complete pattern for test fit.
Figure 3

FRONT FRONT 3"

Slash

Extend length

11
2 1/2 "

/2"
1 1/2"

Figure 2

Figure 4 Close

HBL

Slas

BACK

h
Pivotal point
Slash

3"

Extend length
Slash

1 1/2 "

1 1/2"

1 1/2"

1"