chapter

Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks

YOKES FOR BODICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 Basic Front YokeSlash and Spread . . . . . . . .145 Basic Back YokePivotal and Transfer . . . . . .146 Back Yoke with Inverted Box Pleat . . . . . . . . .147 Back Yoke with Added Fullness/Gathers . . . .147 Back Yoke with Action Pleat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 Yoke Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 FLANGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Dart Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Flange to Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150 Flange Inset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 Flange Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 PLEAT TUCKS AND PIN TUCKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Pleat Tucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Pin Tucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157

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YOKES, FLANGES, PIN TUCKS, AND PLEAT TUCKS

Figure 1

145

YOKES FOR BODICE

A yoke is the upper part of a garment that fits the shoulder area. It is attached to the lower section by a seam that may appear as a horizontal or stylized line. A yoke styleline can be placed anywhere above the bust level or on the back garment above, at, or below the shoulder blades. The yoke controls gathers, pleats, or a plain area to which it is attached. As a design feature, yokes are found on all types of garments. Refer to the yoke instruction when designing shirts. Yoke variations are given on page 148.

1 1/2 " Yokeline

2 1/2 "

Slash Bust point Center front 1" 1 1/2 "

Design Analysis: Designs 1 and 2

The yoke series includes a front yoke (Design 1). The back (Design 2) illustrates a yoke attached to an inverted box pleat and with gathers (page 147, Figure 5, or Design 3, Figure 1).
Design 1 Design 2

Figure 2 Cut and separate pattern sections. Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point. Close side dart and tape. Retrace patterns. Blend gathered areas. Draw grainlines. Complete pattern for test fit.

Figure 2

YOKE

Basic Front YokeSlash and Spread

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1 Trace front two-dart pattern. Square a line 2 1/2 inches down from center front neck to armhole (varies). Draw slash lines from bust point to yokeline parallel with center front and from side dart to bust point. Mark notches, as shown. Extend center front 1 inch for buttons and buttonholes (see Chapter 16). Mark notches for gather control 1 1/2 inches out from each side of slash line at yoke and dart legs at waist.

Gathers

FRONT

Gathers

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Chapter 8 Figure 2 Place the pattern on paper with a push pin through the pivotal point. Mark yokeline on the paper at points A and B. Trace the pattern from A to dart leg C and mark dart leg (shaded area).
Figure 2 C Crossmark D

Basic Back YokePivotal and Transfer

Back yokes are developed without a shoulder dart. Excess from the back dart is transferred to the midarmhole, where it may remain (will gap slightly) or may be eliminated at the yokeline of the armhole. Use this method to develop patterns for Designs 2, 3, and 4.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Square a line from the center back to the midarmhole, or at a point that is one-fourth of the center back length. If the HBL is on the working pattern, use this line. Draw a line from the dart point to the yokeline for use as the pivotal point. Label A, B, C, D.
A A Yokeline

B B

BACK

Figure 1
C

A Yokeline Pivotal point BACK Lower section

Figure 3 Pivot pattern so that dart leg D touches crossmark on paper. Trace remaining pattern from dart leg D to B on pattern. Mark yokeline B and label armhole E. Remove pattern.
Figure 3
C Crossmark D

Figure 4 Draw a line connecting A to B. (The distance between E and B represents dart excess.) To remove excess, see Figure 5, page 147.
A

Center back

A A A

B E

Figure 4

YOKE E B

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147

Back Yoke with Inverted Box Pleat

Figure 5 Trace back pattern from yokeline (A-B) to waist. Mark pivotal point and remove pattern. Draw yokeline from A to B. Measure down from B to equal E-B (see Figure 4); trim. Inverted Pleat Add 3 inches to the width of the back pattern. Mark notches to indicate fold of the pleat at center back and at 1 1/2 inches. Cut on fold or add a seam at center back.

Figure 5 Inverted box pleat

B A Trim

BACK Center back Notch 3 " extension for pleat

Back Yoke with Added Fullness/Gathers

Design 3

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Yoke Gathers Trace lower back section, extending center back 3 or more inches for gathers. The excess from the waist dart (broken line) is absorbed into gathers. For this example, A to B is a straight line. Mark notches for gathers and for center back.
Note: For yokes that are stylized, pointed, or curved, draw slash lines and spread lower section for gathers (not illustrated).

Figure 1
3" Gathers 2"

BACK

Gathers

Design Analysis: Design 3

Fullness is gathered across the back yoke of Design 3. To develop yokeline, refer to instructions given on page 146, Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.

2"

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Chapter 8
Design 4

Back Yoke with Action Pleat

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1 Crossmark B 2 1/2 inches from A (varies). Mark D 3 inches from C (can vary). Draw line from B to D. Cut slash line from B to, not through, D. Spread 3 inches for pleat intake (shaded area). Mark gather control notches 1 inch out from each side of the dart leg. (Dart is indicated by broken lines.)
Figure 1 Spread 3 " 2 1/2 " B A

Slash line

Design Analysis: Design 4

Design 4 features action pleats that are placed 2 1/2 inches in from the armhole at the yokeline. To develop the yokeline, refer to instructions given on page 146, Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.

D 1" 1" 3"

Yoke Design Variations

The yoke design variations are practice problems. The generated patterns are correct if they result in exact representations of each design.
Design 1 Design 2 Design 3 Design 4

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149

FLANGES
A flange is an extension or part of a pattern that forms a continuation of the garment. It may be part of the same garment or a separate, set-in piece shaped as desired and stiched in the styleline. A flange may be developed anywhere along the shoulderline or at any location of any garment. The fold of a flange placed at the shoulderline should not fall within the curve of the armhole. This can distort the fit of the armhole and the look of the garment.

Dart Flange
Design 1

Design Analysis: Design 1

The flange is placed at shoulder tip, using the dart excess to create the effect of Design 1. The flange can be folded as a pleat (Figure 1) or stitched partway (Figure 2) as a tuck-dart when controlling fullness.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Flange Pleat Trace the front bodice pattern, transferring dart to shoulder tip. Fold flange with inside fold toward center front. Mark notches at each dart leg, or half the width of the dart beyond the notch, where the fold ends (see dot placement). Figure 2 Flange Tuck-Dart Pleat Trim excess within 1 1/2 inches of dart leg. Mark dart legs and seam allowance notches. Stitching Guide Stitch inside seams together. Fold dart legs. Top stitch 1 inch in from fold, 4 inches down on dart legs on right side of garment.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Flange FRONT 1 1/2 " FRONT 1 1/2 " Trim

Center front

Close

Center front

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Chapter 8
Design 2

Flange to Waist
The flange is developed by adding fullness (Principle #2) without the use of the dart excess.

Design Analysis: Design 2

The front and back flanges of Design 2 are connected to each other and not to the shoulder seam. The flange extends slightly beyond the shoulder tip.

Pattern Plot and Development

Figures 1 and 2 Trace front and back patterns, transferring the shoulder dart to the mid-armhole. Mark A 1 inch from front and back shoulder tip. Mark B 3 inches in from side waist. Draw slash line from A to B for flange placement. Cut patterns from paper.

Figure 1 1" A BACK Figure 2 1" A

Flange line

FRONT

B 3" B 3"

Flange line

Center front

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151

Figures 3 and 4 Cut slash lines from A to, not through, B. Place on paper and spread A 3 inches for 1 1/2-inch-wide flange (shaded area). Trace pattern. Draw a straight line across open space A. Mark punch and circles 3 inches down from center and 1/8 inch in from stitchline for stitching guide. (Punch holes cause damage in the fabric. Punch hole placement required for the right side of the garment should be marked with chalk dust or pencil.) Extend 1 inch at center front for button and buttonholes. See Chapter 16. Draw grainlines and complete for test fit.

Figure 3
3" 3" A

Figure 4
A 3" 3"

BACK

FRONT

B Gathers B 1 " Extension

Center front

Center back

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Chapter 8
Design 3

Flange Inset
Design Analysis: Design 3
A flange effect is created by inserting a shaped section of fabric into the bodice.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figures 1 and 2 Trace front and back patterns. Mark A 1 inch from front and back dart legs at waist. Mark B 1/2 inch in from front and back shoulder tips. Draw slash line to connect A and B. Measure A to B length for front and back flange. Record: __________________. Reshape armholes by blending to slash lines B. Mark gather control notches at front and back waist 2 inches from center lines. Extend center back 1 inch for closure. Trim shaded area of armhole.
Figure 2 Figure 1 1/2 " B 1/2 " B Trim and blend Trim and blend

Slash

Slash
A 2" 1 " extension 1" A 1" 2"

YOKES, FLANGES, PIN TUCKS, AND PLEAT TUCKS Figures 3 and 4 Cut and separate pattern parts. Draw grainlines, as shown.
Figure 3

153

Figure 5 Flange Draw a vertical line on the paper equal to front and back flange length. Using A-B measurement of front bodice, crossmark shoulder-tip location (label B). Fold paper. Square out from fold at B equal to desired flange width (example: 3 inches) and connect to flange points A using front and back A-B measurements, as shown. Mark notches for front and back. Complete pattern for test fit.
Figure 5
Paper

BACK

Side back

Back flange inset

Figure 4

FRONT

Side front

Front flange inset

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Chapter 8

Flange Design Variations

Flange design variations are practice problems. The generated patterns are correct if they result in exact representations of the designs. If they do not, locate the problems and try again.

Design 1

Design 3 Design 2

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155

PLEAT TUCKS AND PIN TUCKS

A tuck is a stitched fold on the right side of the fabric, resembling a pleat. Tucks used as a design detail may be placed on any garment (top, skirt, dress, sleeves, pants, and so on). Tucks can be placed in any direction (vertical, horizontal, and diagonal). Tucks may be of any width (finished to a width of 1/16 inch to 1 inch or more) and spaced close or far apart for varying effects. It is less expensive for a manufacturer to have tucking done by a trim house than to have it stitched in the factory. Tucks can be created by two methods: the running yard of fabric can be tucked and then cut into individual pattern pieces, or cut pattern pieces can be sent to a trim house for individual tucking. However, to test tuck placement and the look of the design before production, or to develop individual garments, use the general instructions that follow. For instructions on buttons/buttonholes and facings, see Chapter 16.

Pleat Tucks
Design 1

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

The method shown for developing tucks does not involve slashing and spreading the pattern. The pattern is plotted for tuck locations as a guide for marking the pattern paper or fabric in establishing the required tucks and tuck intake. Figure 1 Pleat Tuck Guidelines Trace front pattern. Draw a line for the extension 3/4 inch from the center front. Draw the tuck guideline 3/4 inch from center front. Draw the second guideline 1 inch from the first line.
Figure 1
1" 3/4 "

Design Analysis: Design 1

Design 1 features pleat tucks from neck to waist with the stitchline of one tuck meeting fold line of the preceding tuck. Extensions provide for buttons and buttonhole closure.

Design 1

Center front 3/4 " ext.

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Chapter 8
Figure 2
Pleat tuck intake Paper or muslin 3"

Figure 2 Plotting Tucks at 1/2-Inch Width Industry: Tuck placement and intake is developed on a paper pattern. Draw a line 3 inches from the papers edge. Mark the width of the first tuck at 1 inch. Mark space 1/2 inch. Mark second tuck at 1 inch. Repeat the process for each additional tuck.

Figure 3 Fold tucks on the paper right-side-up. Place the pattern on paper, aligning tucks with the guidelines. Trace the pattern.

Figure 3
Paper Pleat tucks

Figure 4 Cut the pattern and unfold. Mark and notch each tuck and center front.

Figure 4
Pleat tucks Center front

Tuck guideline Tuck guideline

Figure 5
Fabric Pin marking Fabric

Figures 5a, b Individual designs: Mark tucks on the fabric rather than on paper. Mark tucks with pins (a) or by slip stitching (b) each line. Fold the fabric and stitch the tucks.
(a)

Slip stitching

(b)

Center front

FRONT

YOKES, FLANGES, PIN TUCKS, AND PLEAT TUCKS

157

Pin Tucks

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Plotting Tuck Placement and Intake Trace pattern and draw bib styleline. Cut from paper and separate patterns. Draw first line 1/16 inch in from the center front (1/8-inch space on fold). Draw additional parallel lines spaced 1/4 inch apart.
Figure 1

Tuck guidelines 1/4 " apart

FRONT

BIB

1/16 "

Design Analysis: Design 2

Design 2 features pin tucks in a bib inset. Pin tucks are placed with space between them. Figure 2 Draw four sets of parallel lines, 1/8 inch wide, for the tuck intake and spaced 1/4 inch apart. Draw the first tuck line approximately 6 inches in from the papers edge. This will allow room to cut on the fold (actual allowance will depend on the number of tucks and the intake of a particular design).
Figure 2
Pin tuck intake 6"

Figures 3 and 4 Fold paper for each tuck, place bib guidelines on the tuck folds, and trace (Figure 3). Cut and unfold. Fold paper and trace for other side. Figure 4 shows the completed bib.

Figure 3 Pin tucks

Figure 4

Cut on fold

BIB