BUILT-UP NECKLINES

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Built-Up Necklines
BUILT-UP NECKLINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202 Stovepipe Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202 Built-Up Bateau Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 INSET BANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 Rounded Inset Band . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 Inset Band Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207

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chapter

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Chapter 11

BUILT-UP NECKLINES
Built-up necklines extend above the base of the neck and must accommodate the position of the neck as it juts forward (Figure 1). There are two basic types of built-up necklines: all-in-one with the bodice (Figure 2) and set-in bands (Figure 3). Either type can be developed from any point along the shoulder and to any height. Added room is provided along the outer edge of a built-up neckline. This allows the neckline to rise up and away from the neck and shoulder of the garment to prevent strain from the necks forward position. The development of this type of neckline is an application of Principle #1, Dart Manipulation (when transferring dart excess to the neckline) or Principle #2, Added Fullness (when adding to the patterns outline). Because of the special features of this type of neckline, facings are included in the instructions. (More about facings can be found in Chapter 16.)

Figure 2

Figure 3

Stovepipe Neckline
Design Analysis: Designs 1 and 2
The neckline of Design 1 extends above the natural neckline in front and back, with seams at center front and center back. Design 2 is a practice problem.
Figure 1

Design 1

Design 2

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203

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front Trace and cut front bodice pattern. Mark A 2 inches down from center front. Mark B 1/2 inch in from neck at shoulder. Draw curved slash line from A to B.

Figure 2 Cut slash line from A to, not through, point B. Place on paper and spread 2 inches. Secure. Trace and label center front neck C.

Figure 2 Figure 1 B 1/2 "

B C

2" A

FRONT

2" A

Sla sh

FRONT

Figures 3a, b Continue line 1 1/2 inches up from point B and square a short line. Draw a curved line to C and to A. Blend at A and B. Notch (Figure 3b). Cut from paper.

Center front

Figure 4 Facings Place center front of pattern on fold of the paper. Trace neckline from center front to 1 inch down from B on shoulder. Remove pattern. Draw the bottom edge parallel with the neckline. Notch center front neck.

Figure 3a
1 1/2 " B C

Figure 3b
Blend B Blend and trim

Figure 4 Paper 1" B Notch

Front facing

A FRONT

Center front

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Chapter 11
Figure 5
D B 1"
Guideline

Figure 5 Back Trace back. Mark A at neck/shoulder and draw a guideline parallel with center back. Extend center back 1 inch. Label B and square a short line. Mark C 1/2 inch from A. From C draw a 1 1/2-inch line to the guideline. Label it D. Draw a curved line parallel with the neckline from D to B and from D to shoulderline. Add a 1-inch extension at center back for closure and mark notches. Figure 6 Facing Trace the back pattern 1 inch below point C, starting at original center back. Remove pattern. Draw facings edge parallel with neckline edge. Notch at point C and center back. Draw grainline and complete pattern for test fit.

1 1/2 " A C 1/2 "

Figure 6 C.B. (Extension not traced)

C

Center back

1 " extension

Back facing

Built-Up Bateau Neckline

Design Analysis: Designs 1 and 2
The neckline of Design 1 extends upward from midshoulder and center front of neck. Excess from the dart is transferred to the neckline to allow room for the neck, which juts forward. Design 2 is included for practice. Design other variations for additional practice.

Back view

Design 2

Design 1

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Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front Trace pattern, transferring 1/2 inch of the dart excess to mid-neck. Extend center front neck 3/4 inch and square a short line. Label A and mid-shoulder B. Square a line 1 1/2 inches up from B, ending 3/4 inch out from shoulder. Label C.
Figure 1 1 1/2 " C 3/4 " B 1/2 " A 3/4 " FRONT

Figure 3 Facing Trace neck area on fold, ending 1 inch from B. Remove pattern. Draw bottom edge parallel with neckline.
Figure 3 Paper 1" B

Figure 4 Back Trace back pattern, transferring all or half of the dart excess to the neck. Remaining excess will be eased in along the shoulder or use multidispersion back patternsee page 85. Draw a 1-inch extension. Mark notches.
Figure 4 Trim 3/4 " 1 1/2 " B

Figure 2 Draw neckline, blending curved line with square lines A and C. Mark notch at point B. (Broken line indicates original pattern.) Cut pattern from paper.
Figure 2 Blend and notch C
B Trim A

Center front

BACK

1" Extension

Figure 5 Draw facing (width same as front), ending at center back. Draw grainlines and complete patterns for test fit.
Figure 5 1" B

C.B. (Extension not traced)

Center back

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Chapter 11
Design 1

INSET BANDS
An inset band is developed from part of the front and back bodice and located anywhere along the shoulder or neckline. The band is modified so that it will not lie flat on the models neck. The following instructions apply to any type of inset neckline. The shoulder dart can be shifted to another location along the shoulderline or transferred to the neckline to become part of the band, or you can use multidispersion for the back pattern (see note on page 205).

Rounded Inset Band

Design Analysis: Design 1
The inset band is formed around the garment, with the upper edge away from the neck and mid-shoulder.

Figure 2 Close neck dart. Draw three slash lines on each inset section starting 1 1/2 to 2 inches from center front and center back.
Figure 2
Sla sh

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace back, transferring shoulder dart to the neck (dart is eventually closed). Place the front on back shoulderline. Draw the neckline and band, using illustration as a guide. (Broken lines indicate original pattern.) Cut neckband from front and back patterns, discarding unneeded section. The lower part of the front and back bodice completes the design.
Figure 1
Note: Close shoulder dart, after cutting band from pattern.

Sla sh

1 1/2 "

sh Sla sh Sla

1 1/2 " C.F.

sh Sla h Slas

Figures 3, 4 Cut slash lines to, not through, neckline edge. Place patterns on paper with center front on fold. Spread each section 1/4 inch and add 1/2 inch at the shoulder to zero at the neckline edge. Add a 1-inch extension at center back for closure. Draw grainlines, add seams, and complete for test fit.
Figure 3 BACK BAND INSET
1/4 " 1/2 "

C.B.

Ce
1"

nte rb k ac

2 1/2 "

Inset band Shoulderline 1/2 " 2 1/2 " 1 " extension

Figure 4 FRONT BAND INSET Paper

Center front

1/2 " 1/4 "

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Inset Band Variations

Design Analysis: Designs 2 and 3
Design 2 has an inset band that comes to a point at center front and curves around to center back. Design 3 is given as a practice problem.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Design 2 Design 3

Use the instructions for Design 1 and the illustrations that follow as guides for developing the patterns. Figure 1 Plotted Patterns

Figure 2 Inset Bands

sh Sla sh Sla ash Sl

1 3/4 "

1 1/2 "

sh Sla sh Sla h Slas

C.B.

Ce nte rb ac k
1 1/4 " 1/4 " 3/4 " 4 1/2 " Center front

Figure 3 Slash and spread back and front bands. Trace front on fold. Draw grainlines; add seams and notches. Complete pattern for test fit
Figure 3
1/4 " 1/2 "

C.F.

1 " Extension Paper 1/2 " 1/4 "

Notch