Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
37
770
771
BODYSUIT
The bodysuit is an activewear garment cut in a two-way stretch Lycra fabric for comfort and maximum body movement. (For more information about knits, see Chapter 27.) A seam allowance of 3/8 inch (overlock) is included in the draft. The draft is based on the dartless pattern. Two bodysuit drafts are illustrated: the sleeveless (tank-top) bodysuit and the bodysuit with sleeves. The maximum stretch of the knit fabric runs through the length of the garment. The front and back bodysuit are drafted together and separated at the completion of the draft.
772
Chapter 37
Figure 1 1 3/4 "
Measurements Needed (14) Waist arc front __________. (7) Side length __________. (15) Hip arc back __________. (27) Crotch depth __________. (18) Waist to ankle (pant length) __________. (21) Knee plus 3/4 inch __________. (17) Waist to knee __________. (23) Ankle plus 3/4 inch __________.
Figure 2
C FRONT E BACK D H B New waist 1/2 " I Hip G Crotch depth less 1/2 " J
Crotch
Knee
Ankle
Stitching Guide Overlock seams together, except for a 5-inch opening at the center back for entry to test fit. For elastic attachment instruction, see page 685. Use this pattern for all designs cut in knit having the same stretch factor.
773
Bodysuit Draft
If milliskin knit is used, subtract 1 inch from measurement where asterisk [*] is marked. Figures 1, 2 Trace the front pattern. Label the neck A. Raise the waist 1/2 inch and label B. AC one-third of AB. Mark. *BD waist arc front (14) less 1/2 inch. Squared from B. DE side length is squared up from D, 1/2 inch past armhole level, and squared out 1/2 inch. Draw the side seam with a slight inward curve. Draw the armhole curve parallel to the original armhole. Draw the neckline as illustrated or modify the shape as desired. Armhole Measurement Measure front armhole. Record for use in drafting the sleeve __________________. Continue with draft on page 772, Figure 1, starting with BF instructions.
Figure 1 Figure 2
Shift strap A Measure armhole C 1/2 " E 1/2 "
Bodysuit/leotard sleeve
1/2 " F
Elbow
BACK
774
Chapter 37
Tights
1/2 " (no elastic)
Figure 2 Trace the bodysuit pattern and follow illustration. In the fitting, add to back crotch extension if necessary. For instructions to develop tights with stirrups, see page 649.
Figure 3
1 1/2 "
Elastic Control
Elastic should measure the same as the pattern at the waistlines less 3/4 inch. The measurement includes 1 inch for overlap to stitch the elastic together. See Chapter 29 for stitching and elastic instructions.
BACK
775
TANK-TOP LEOTARD
The leotard is cut in a two-way Lycra stretch fabric for comfort and maximum movement. (For information about knits, see Chapter 27.) Seam allowances of 3/8 inch are included in the draft. The leotard is based on the dartless pattern. The leotard drafts illustrated are sleeveless and with sleeves. The maximum stretch of the knit fabric runs through the length of the garment. The front and back leotard are drafted together and separated at the completion on the draft. Measurements Needed (14) Waist arc front __________________. (15) Hip arc back __________________. (27) Crotch depth __________________. (26) Crotch length __________________.
Leotard Draft
If milliskin is used, subtract 1 inch from measurement where asterisk [*] is marked. Figure 1 Front Leotard Trace front dartless pattern. Raise waist 1/2 inch and label AB. AC one-third of AB. *BD waist arc (14), less 1/2 inch, squared from B. DE 2 inches, squared from D. Draw shoulder strap and neckline, as illustrated. *BF one-half of crotch length (26), less 3/4 inch. BG one-half of BF, less 1 inch. *GH hip arc (15), less 1/2 inch, squared from G. FI 1 1/8 inches, squared from F. Square up from I. Label J. Crossmark 2 inches up from I. Label K. Draw a 1 1/2-inch line (or less) from J as a guide. Draw front legline from H to K touching angle line. Cut from paper. Figure 2 Back Leotard Trace the front leotard pattern. Draw a line from L to M, 3/8 inch in from each end of the legline. Draw the back legline, as illustrated. Shift the shoulder strap, as illustrated (secures strap to shoulder).
Figure 1
1 3/4 "
Figure 2
Shift strap A
FRONT E 2" D B New waist 1 1/2 " H J A 3/8 " 1/8 " K 2" I F 1 1/8 " B 3/8 " 3/16 " BACK
776
Chapter 37
Figure 2
BACK LEOTARD
Waist
Waist
Figure 3
Leotard sleeve
FRONT LEOTARD
777
MAILLOT FOUNDATION
The maillot swimsuit is based on the leotard pattern with basic armhole (see page 776). Seam allowances of 3/8 inch are included in the draft. The maximum stretch goes around the figure. The maillot foundation pattern is the base for the development of the bikini and bra tops.
Maillot Draft
Figures 1, 2 Trace the front and back leotard. Modify the pattern as illustrated. Two leglines are shown for design variations. Extend the center line if a higher neckline is desired. (See pages 685686 for stitching and elastic guidance.) The waistline is marked using the symbol rather than the notch. Cut and test fit. For guidance to pattern adjustments, see Chapter 29.
Figure 1
Figure 2
1/2 "
1/2 "
778
Chapter 37
Figure 3
Fold 1-3/4 " 1/4 " seam included 1-1/4 "
Bikini Draft
Figures 1a, b, c Trace front and back maillot patterns and plot bikini, bra top, and crotch lining using illustration as a guide (a, b, c). Allow an addition of 3/4 inch above the bikini line for the snap-back from stretching and for elastic attachment. For legline variation, see Figure 4. Direction lines are horizontal for maximum stretch.
Figure 1a Figure 1b
Figure 4 Center fold bikini Place front and back bikini on fold. If preferred, adjust legline and trace. Add 3/8 seams for elastic. Cut and test fit.*
Figure 4
1 to 2 " Bra front Cut on fold For higher legline Cut on fold
Fold
Fold
BACK BIKINI
FRONT BIKINI
Figure 1c
Fig.C
Fold
Figure 5 All-in-One bikini Place front bikini on fold and trace. Place back bikini on fold matching stitch lines at crotch levels. Trace. Cut and test fit. See pages 685 and 686, Chapter 30, for elastic and stitching guide.
Figure 5
Figures 2d, e Cut front and back bra from paper, after adding 3/8 inch for attaching elastic.
FRONT
Figure 2d
A
Figure 2e
All-in-one
Fold
Fold
BACK
Figure 3 Bow Tie. Draw tie on fold 1-3/4 6 (or longer). Tack center of tie and to bra underneath.