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chapter

37

Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear


BODYSUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .771 Tank-Top Bodysuit Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .772 BODYSUIT WITH SLEEVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773 Bodysuit Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773 Lycra Knit Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773 TIGHTS WITH TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .774 Top and Bottom Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .774 Tights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .774 TANK-TOP LEOTARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .775 Leotard Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .775 LEOTARD WITH SLEEVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .776 MAILLOT FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .777 Maillot Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .777 Bikini Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .778

770

BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, MAILLOTS, AND SWIMWEAR

771

BODYSUIT
The bodysuit is an activewear garment cut in a two-way stretch Lycra fabric for comfort and maximum body movement. (For more information about knits, see Chapter 27.) A seam allowance of 3/8 inch (overlock) is included in the draft. The draft is based on the dartless pattern. Two bodysuit drafts are illustrated: the sleeveless (tank-top) bodysuit and the bodysuit with sleeves. The maximum stretch of the knit fabric runs through the length of the garment. The front and back bodysuit are drafted together and separated at the completion of the draft.

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Chapter 37
Figure 1 1 3/4 "

Measurements Needed (14) Waist arc front __________. (7) Side length __________. (15) Hip arc back __________. (27) Crotch depth __________. (18) Waist to ankle (pant length) __________. (21) Knee plus 3/4 inch __________. (17) Waist to knee __________. (23) Ankle plus 3/4 inch __________.

Figure 2

C FRONT E BACK D H B New waist 1/2 " I Hip G Crotch depth less 1/2 " J

Tank-Top Bodysuit Draft


Seam allowance is included. If milliskin knit is used, subtract 1 inch from measurements where asterisk [*] is marked. Figure 1 Front Bodysuit Trace front pattern (broken lines). Label neck A. Raise waist 1/2 inch. Label B. AC one-third of AB. *BD waist arc front (14) less 1/2 inch, squared from B. DE one-half of side length squared up from D (7). Draw the armhole and neckline, as illustrated. *BF crotch depth (27) less 1/2 inch. Mark. BG one-half of BF. Mark. BH one-half of BD. Mark. Square up and down through pattern from H. HK pant length less 1 inch (18). Mark. *GI hip arc less 1/2 inch (back) (15). Squared from G. FJ one-fourth of GI, plus 1/2 inch. Line extended from F. KM knee level plus 1/2 inch. Mark. Legline: Square out one-fourth of knee and ankle measurements from each side of center line. Draw legline from ankle to knee and from knee blending to hipline. Draw crotch curve from J, blending with inseam. Figure 2 Back Bodysuit Cut pattern from paper. Trace pattern, for back pattern. The back strap slants toward the neckline. Draw the back neckline. Complete pattern for a test fit. See Chapter 29 for guide to correct the pattern for fit problems.
Note: Modify the neckline and armhole to vary the design.

Crotch

Knee

Ankle

Stitching Guide Overlock seams together, except for a 5-inch opening at the center back for entry to test fit. For elastic attachment instruction, see page 685. Use this pattern for all designs cut in knit having the same stretch factor.

Notching Guide (Two Types of Notching Used for Knits)


1. Notch to a depth of 1/8 inch. 2. Cut pyramid shapes out from the seam edge 1/8 inch wide and 1/8 inch high ().

Direction of greatest stretch

BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, MAILLOTS, AND SWIMWEAR

773

BODYSUIT WITH SLEEVES


The armhole of the dartless pattern is modified for a sleeve. Measurements needed: Sleeve length (28) __________________. Cap height (31) __________________. Wrist (30) __________________.

Lycra Knit Sleeve


The sleeve draft is for use with Lycra stretch knit only. Figure 3 *AB sleeve length (28) less 1/2 inch. Fold paper. AC The cap height less 1 inch. Square a line out from C (biceps level). BD one-half of BC (elbow level). AE front armhole plus 1/8 inch. Line touches biceps level. Divide the line into thirds (dot mark). Draw capline curve, using measurements given. BG one-half of wrist entry measurement (30) plus 3/4 inch. Connect G to E. Draw underseam, as illustrated. Cut pattern from paper and test fit with bodysuit or leotard. Greatest stretch goes around the arm.
Figure 3
Paper 1/4 " E Biceps C 1/2 " A

Bodysuit Draft
If milliskin knit is used, subtract 1 inch from measurement where asterisk [*] is marked. Figures 1, 2 Trace the front pattern. Label the neck A. Raise the waist 1/2 inch and label B. AC one-third of AB. Mark. *BD waist arc front (14) less 1/2 inch. Squared from B. DE side length is squared up from D, 1/2 inch past armhole level, and squared out 1/2 inch. Draw the side seam with a slight inward curve. Draw the armhole curve parallel to the original armhole. Draw the neckline as illustrated or modify the shape as desired. Armhole Measurement Measure front armhole. Record for use in drafting the sleeve __________________. Continue with draft on page 772, Figure 1, starting with BF instructions.
Figure 1 Figure 2
Shift strap A Measure armhole C 1/2 " E 1/2 "

Bodysuit/leotard sleeve

1/2 " F

Elbow

FRONT D B 1/2 "

BACK

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Chapter 37

TIGHTS WITH TOP


To develop tights, the bodysuit pant is traced to above waistline (allow enough for snap-back from stretching and for elastic casing (approximately 1 1/2 inches); see Figure 3 example). Elastic should measure waist, less 1 1/2 inches, which allows for a 1/2-inch stitched overlap to secure. The bodysuit patterns can be separated through the midriff area for designs with top and bottom patterns.
Figure 1 Figure 2

1 1/2 " FRONT and BACK 1" 1 1/2 "

Front and back tights

Top and Bottom Patterns


Figure 1 Trace bodysuit front pattern. Plot styleline, using illustration, design, size, and height of model as a guide.

Tights
1/2 " (no elastic)

Figure 2 Trace the bodysuit pattern and follow illustration. In the fitting, add to back crotch extension if necessary. For instructions to develop tights with stirrups, see page 649.

Figure 3

Figure 3 Back: Example of raised back waistline. Follow illustration.


1 3/4 "

1 1/2 "

Elastic Control
Elastic should measure the same as the pattern at the waistlines less 3/4 inch. The measurement includes 1 inch for overlap to stitch the elastic together. See Chapter 29 for stitching and elastic instructions.

BACK

BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, MAILLOTS, AND SWIMWEAR

775

TANK-TOP LEOTARD
The leotard is cut in a two-way Lycra stretch fabric for comfort and maximum movement. (For information about knits, see Chapter 27.) Seam allowances of 3/8 inch are included in the draft. The leotard is based on the dartless pattern. The leotard drafts illustrated are sleeveless and with sleeves. The maximum stretch of the knit fabric runs through the length of the garment. The front and back leotard are drafted together and separated at the completion on the draft. Measurements Needed (14) Waist arc front __________________. (15) Hip arc back __________________. (27) Crotch depth __________________. (26) Crotch length __________________.

Leotard Draft
If milliskin is used, subtract 1 inch from measurement where asterisk [*] is marked. Figure 1 Front Leotard Trace front dartless pattern. Raise waist 1/2 inch and label AB. AC one-third of AB. *BD waist arc (14), less 1/2 inch, squared from B. DE 2 inches, squared from D. Draw shoulder strap and neckline, as illustrated. *BF one-half of crotch length (26), less 3/4 inch. BG one-half of BF, less 1 inch. *GH hip arc (15), less 1/2 inch, squared from G. FI 1 1/8 inches, squared from F. Square up from I. Label J. Crossmark 2 inches up from I. Label K. Draw a 1 1/2-inch line (or less) from J as a guide. Draw front legline from H to K touching angle line. Cut from paper. Figure 2 Back Leotard Trace the front leotard pattern. Draw a line from L to M, 3/8 inch in from each end of the legline. Draw the back legline, as illustrated. Shift the shoulder strap, as illustrated (secures strap to shoulder).
Figure 1
1 3/4 "

Figure 2
Shift strap A

FRONT E 2" D B New waist 1 1/2 " H J A 3/8 " 1/8 " K 2" I F 1 1/8 " B 3/8 " 3/16 " BACK

776

Chapter 37

LEOTARD WITH SLEEVE


If milliskin is used, subtract 1 inch from measurement where asterisk [*] is marked. Figures 1, 2 Trace front pattern. Raise the waist 1/2 inch and label AB. AC one-third of AB. Mark. *BD waist arc (14) front, less 1/2 inch, squared from B. DE side length is squared up from D, 1/2 inch past armhole level, and squared out 1/2 inch. Draw the side seam with a slight inward curve. Draw the armhole curve parallel to the original armhole. Draw the neckline as illustrated, or modify the shape as desired. Armhole Measure armhole and record for use in developing the sleeve __________________ . See page 773 for sleeve draft (long, or to preferred length). Continue with draft on page 775, Figure 1, starting with BF instructions.
Figure 1
A Measure armhole C 1/2 " E

Figure 2

Figures 4, 5 The completed patterns are illustrated.


Figure 4 Figure 5

1/2 " FRONT BACK B 1/2 "

BACK LEOTARD

Waist

Waist

Figure 3

Leotard sleeve

Direction of greatest stretch

FRONT LEOTARD

BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, MAILLOTS, AND SWIMWEAR

777

MAILLOT FOUNDATION
The maillot swimsuit is based on the leotard pattern with basic armhole (see page 776). Seam allowances of 3/8 inch are included in the draft. The maximum stretch goes around the figure. The maillot foundation pattern is the base for the development of the bikini and bra tops.

Maillot Draft
Figures 1, 2 Trace the front and back leotard. Modify the pattern as illustrated. Two leglines are shown for design variations. Extend the center line if a higher neckline is desired. (See pages 685686 for stitching and elastic guidance.) The waistline is marked using the symbol rather than the notch. Cut and test fit. For guidance to pattern adjustments, see Chapter 29.

Figure 1

Figure 2

FRONT BACK Direction of greatest stretch

1/2 "

1/2 "

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Chapter 37
Figure 3
Fold 1-3/4 " 1/4 " seam included 1-1/4 "

Bikini Draft
Figures 1a, b, c Trace front and back maillot patterns and plot bikini, bra top, and crotch lining using illustration as a guide (a, b, c). Allow an addition of 3/4 inch above the bikini line for the snap-back from stretching and for elastic attachment. For legline variation, see Figure 4. Direction lines are horizontal for maximum stretch.
Figure 1a Figure 1b

Figure 4 Center fold bikini Place front and back bikini on fold. If preferred, adjust legline and trace. Add 3/8 seams for elastic. Cut and test fit.*
Figure 4

1 to 2 " Bra front Cut on fold For higher legline Cut on fold
Fold
Fold

BACK BIKINI

FRONT BIKINI

Figure 1c
Fig.C

Draw crotch piece

Fold

Figure 5 All-in-One bikini Place front bikini on fold and trace. Place back bikini on fold matching stitch lines at crotch levels. Trace. Cut and test fit. See pages 685 and 686, Chapter 30, for elastic and stitching guide.
Figure 5

Figures 2d, e Cut front and back bra from paper, after adding 3/8 inch for attaching elastic.

FRONT

Figure 2d
A

Figure 2e
All-in-one

Fold

Bra front Paper

Overlap crotch seams


Back bra

Fold

BACK

Figure 3 Bow Tie. Draw tie on fold 1-3/4 6 (or longer). Tack center of tie and to bra underneath.

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