chapter

24

Capes and Hoods

CAPES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .541 A-Line Cape Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .541 Flared Cape Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .543 HOODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .545 How to Measure for the Hood Draft . . . . . . . .545 Contoured Hood Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . .545 Contoured Hood Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .549 Loose Hood Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550

540

CAPES AND HOODS

541

CAPES
A cape is a sleeveless garment that hangs over the shoulders (sometimes with slip-throughs for arms). It can be worn separately over coats, jackets, dresses, or sportswear, or it can be attached to a dress or cloak. Two basic capes are developed from the torso foundationA-line and circular capes. They can be used to generate many variations of current fashion trends.

A-Line Cape Foundation

Design Analysis
Cape has A-line silhouette with slits for arm entry. Three buttons secure the front. Design 1 illustrates how this foundation can be used.
Figure 1 F G 1/4 " 2"

Design 1

Guideline

Waist Center back

Pattern Plot and Manipulations

Hip

CAPE BACK

1/2 " D E

Figure 1 Back Trace the back torso. Square a guideline from the center back, touching the armhole. Label A and B. Divide the AB line into fourths. BC One-fourth of AB. Extend line. Extend center back to the length desired. Label D. DE AC plus 3 inches, squared from D. Draw a line from E. Extend the line through C. Blend hem 1/2 inch up at side seam. Mark 1/4 inch above shoulder tip. Label F. Extend line from mid-shoulder through F, intersecting the EC line. Label G. Draw a 2-inch diagonal line from G and draw the shoulder curve from C to F to mid-shoulder. Cut the pattern from paper.

542

Chapter 24 Armhole Slit Mark 1 inch in from the side waist. Label L. Square 5 inches up and down from L. (Placement and length can vary.) The slit should be cut 1/16 inch wide and notched across top and bottom. Cut a welt strip 10 inches 3 inches (not illustrated). Note: The slit is faced with the lining.

Figure 2 Front Trace the front torso, transferring side dart to midshoulder in line with the back dart placement. Square a line from the center front, touching the armhole. Label H. HI BC of back cape. Add length to center front below hip equal to the back. Label J. JK DE of back cape, squared from J. Connect K with I (curve shaped later). Blend the hemline 1/2 inch up from the side seam. Draw a 1-inch extension parallel with the center front.

Figure 2 New dart leg

1" extension

Figure 3 Place back cape on top of the front cape, matching guidelines with C and I touching (back indicated by broken line). Trace curve of the back cape, ending at the back shoulder dart leg (will cross the front dart leg). Mark. Remove pattern. (If the back shoulder is higher or lower than front, balance the difference at the shoulder tip and blend curve line.) Note: Shoulder pads do not require shoulder adjustment. (Excess has already been transferred to the armhole area.) Center the dart point 1 1/2 inches up from bust point and draw adjusted dart legs to dart point. Complete the pattern for a test fit. (Shoulder overarm curve will be adjusted on the model.)
Figure 3 Mark corner of back dart Back Front

H Guideline

Armhole slit 5" L 1" Waist

5"

Hip

CAPE FRONT

C I Touch

1 1/2 " Guideline

1/2 " K J

CAPES AND HOODS

543

Flared Cape Foundation

Design Analysis
This flared cape has a tied neck and turned-up Peter Pan flat roll (collar and tie not included). Develop the flared cape foundation from the front and back torso. Length is added for design variations. Create designs using the slash/spread method.

The Flared Cape Draft

Figure 1 Trace the front and back patterns, transferring shoulder and side darts to hip level, and cut from paper. Square a line on paper. Place the back and front on a square line, with shoulder tips 1 inch apart and trace. Label side hips A and B. Mark the center between shoulder tips and points A and B. Draw separating line. Label D. Mark C 3 inches down on the line from shoulder tips. Draw a curved shoulder from C to the front and back mid-shoulders. Mark a notch at the shoulder tips. Shape the hemline between front and back patterns. Extend the hemline to desired length. The new hemline is parallel with hip level. Draw a 1-inch extension at center front for button and buttonholes, if desired.

544

Chapter 24
Figure 1 Center back Add length

Close

1 " apart 3" C

at

in g

lin e

Se

pa r

Close
Center front A Add length 1 " extension CAPE FRONT Center front

Option 1: All-in-One
Cape can be cut as one piece if the width of the fabric permits. Center back is placed on fold.

Option 2: Back Seam Cape

Add a seam at the center back cape (not illustrated).

Option 3: Separated Cape

Cut the cape, separating on the overarm line. Draw the grain and complete pattern for a test fit. Adjust shoulder curve on the model. For greater flare, add to the overarm seam, ending at shoulder tip.

Blend the adjusted shoulderlines after fitting

Center backcut on fold

CAPE BACK

CAPES AND HOODS

545

HOODS
Hoods cover the head and sometimes part of the face. They can be worn separately or as part of a garment. Like all garments, hoods come in a variety of styles and shapes. Two hood foundations are illustratedthe contour hood and loose-fitting hood. Other variations can be developed from the two foundations. Hoods that are illustrated are attached to the garments. The front and back neckline of the patterns are needed for the draft.

How to Measure for the Hood Draft

Figure 1 Overhead Measurement Place a measuring tape at the center front neck (between clavicles) and hold end of the tape while measuring up and over the head. Record one-third of this measurement and add 3/4 inch: __________.
Figure 1

Figure 2 Horizontal Measurement Place tape at the hairline at eye level and measure to other side. Record one-half of measurement: __________.

Figure 2

Contoured Hood Foundation

Design Analysis
The contoured hood fits the shape of the head, with control darts at the crown and neck area. The hood is attached to the neckline of the garment, starting at the center front.

546

Chapter 24
Figure 1 B H
1"

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 AB overhead measurement (example: 10 inches). BC AB, less 1 inch. Square from B. CD 1 1/2 inches. Square from C. AE one-half of AB. Mark. EF 3/4 inch, squared from E. FG horizontal measurement squared from E (example: 8 inches). BH 1 inch. Mark. BI one-half of BC. Mark.

I 9"

C 1 1/2 " D

F 3/4 "

Horizontal measurement 8"

10 "

Figure 2 Place back pattern on the draft, with center back on AB line and neck at A. Trace back neck to corner of the shoulder. Label J. Shift the pattern 3/4 inch, with center back parallel to the AB line. Trace shoulderline from the corner of neck to dart leg. Label K. (Broken lines indicate the untraced pattern.) Remove the pattern.

Figure 2 B H

A Shift 3/4 "

Shoulder at neck

J K

CAPES AND HOODS Figure 3 Extend the shoulder (for guideline). Place shoulder of the front pattern on guideline, with corner of the neck touching point K. Trace the front neck. Label center front neck X. (Broken lines represent the untraced pattern.) Remove the pattern. KL 3 inches. Mark. LM 3/8 inch. Mark and draw a line from H to M. HN 3/4 inch. Mark. Square out 1 1/8 inches from both sides of N. Label O and P. NQ One-third of HM. Mark and connect Q with O and P.
Figure 3 H 3/4 " O 1 1/8 "
N

547

Figure 4 Shaping the Hood Draw the outward curved line of the hood, connecting points A, F, O, and P, I, D. Draw an inward curve from D, G, L, to X. Blend at point G, for a continuous inward curve, if necessary. Neck Dart Mark center between points J and K. Draw a 3-inch line parallel to the AB line. Label R. Connect J and K with R for the dart. Crown Dart Mark mid-point of OQ and QP and measure out 1/8 inch. Mark and draw curved lines connecting points Q with O and P. Draw a grainline parallel to the AB line. Complete the pattern for a test fit.

P 1 1/8 "

Note: Fold the neck dart with excess in direction of the AB line.
Figure 4 B

P O 1/8 " 1/8 " Q F

I D

Contour hood foundation

3/4 " K J

3"

3/8 " L M

ine del Gui rline ulde o h S

Shoulder at neck R L A

FRONT Center front

J 3" K

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Chapter 24

Dartless Hood
Figures 5a, b, c Draw a line through the dart to K and blend. Trim 3/8 inch from the front and back necklines, as illustrated. Walk the necklines. Adjust the shoulders if necessary.
Figure 5a

F 4 "

L K Blend Y 3"

Figure 5b
Trim 3/8 "

Figure 5c
Trim 3/8 " FRONT

BACK

CAPES AND HOODS

549

Contoured Hood Design

Design Analysis
The contoured hood encircles the face, buttoning from the chin down to the center front of the neck and garment. The hood gathers along the neckline, and the styleline ends at the side of the face. If gathers are not desired, do not add to the center back and use the dart of the foundation pattern. Design 2 is included for practice.

Design 1

Design 2

Figure 1 Trace the contour hood foundation, including FG line and KL line. (See the hood draft, pages 545 and 546). Draw a styleline from dart point of the crown dart, ending 4 inches below the G line. Square down from point F (for fullness) and blend the neckline across dart (dart excess is part of the gathers). For the dartless hood, see page 547, Figure 5. Extension at Neck XY 3 inches. Mark. Locate 1 1/2 inches on a square rule and place at point Y, with the other leg at point X. Draw a square line, touching X with Y. Label point Z. Blend from Z to L. Draw a 1-inch extension parallel with the XZ line. Connect the ends. Mark button placement (Chapter 16).

Figure 1

St yle lin e
L K Y Blend 3"
11 /2

4"

Gathe rs

Blend Z
"

1 " extension

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Chapter 24

Loose Hood Foundation

Loose hoods are most often used with coats and capes. The hood may be pointed or squared in back, with the front hood folded over.

Design Analysis
The foundation is drafted with a fold-back and fits to the height of the crown of the head, with either a point or a square across the back (eliminating the point). Instructions are given for both Design 1 and Design 2 (exaggerated fullness).

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

For greater looseness, add 2 inches or more to the AB measurement. See Design 2. Figure 1 AB Overhead measurement (example: 10 inches). BC 2 1/2 inches. CD AB, squared from C. Square down from D, as shown. Place center back on AC line, with corner of the neck touching A. Draw neck to the corner of the shoulder. Label E. Shift the pattern 3/4 inch, keeping the center back parallel to the AC line. Draw the shoulder, starting at corner of the neck (F), to the dart leg. Remove the pattern and extend shoulderline (guideline). (The broken line indicates the untraced pattern.)

Design 1

Design 2

Figure 1 C

2 1/2 " B

10 "

A Shift 3/4 " E F

Gu

ide

line

CAPES AND HOODS Figure 2 Place front shoulder on the shoulder guideline, with corner of the neck touching point F. Dot mark center front neck (indicated by the broken line). With a push pin at point F of the front pattern, swing pattern 2 inches away from the dot mark. Trace the neckline. Remove the pattern and label center front H. Draw the curve of the hood from point H, blending with the shoulder guide.
Figure 2 C D Figure 3
C K 2 1/2 "

551

Figure 3 Mark center of the dart between E and F. Draw a 3-inch line parallel with the AC line. Label I. Draw a connecting line from E and F to I (dart). (For a dartless hood, see page 000.) To remove the point from hood, square out 2 1/2 inches from B. Label J. Square up from J to the CD line. Cut the section from the pattern. Note: The center back of the hood is cut on the fold. Draw the grainline and complete for a test fit.

B
B 2 1/2 " J

LOOSE HOOD Cut on fold I

rline ulde o h S

e guid

F E

A F E 3"

Dot mark G

2"

H C e

nte

C t en er fro

r fro

nt

nt