Plackets and Pockets

PLACKETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .370 Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One . . . . . . . .370 Wing Collar Placket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372 Slit Opening with Placket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374 POCKETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 Pocket Classification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 Inserted Seam Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377 Jean Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Pocket-in-One with the Side Seam . . . . . . . . .379 Accordion Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 Stylized Outside Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382 Lift-Away Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382 Pocket with Hidden Side Seam . . . . . . . . . . . .383

17
chapter

369

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Chapter 17

PLACKETS
Plackets are finished slits or faced openings designed on all types of garmentsbodice, sleeve, skirt, dress, jacket, pant, and so forth. Plackets can be of any length and width, with blunt, pointed, rounded, or stylized ends. Some plackets have buttons and buttonholes; others do not. When designed for neckline openings, the placket can end at the neck edge or be extended beyond the neck and become part of the collar. The measurement can be varied to create different effects. For shirt plackets, see Chapter 21.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Fold the paper. Place the center front on fold and trace. Plan Placket AB placket length (example: 8 inches) BC 1 inch CD 1 inch Square lines 3/4 inch from B and C. Label E and F. Draw a line from F to the neck, parallel to center front. Connect point F with D. Plan Facing for Placket Draw the facing 2 inches from shoulder at neck, ending 3/4 inch from E. Connect the facing with E (indicated by broken line). Trace the placket and facing to underneath side.

Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One

Design 2

Figure 1
Paper 2"

Design 1

8"

Design Analysis
The pointed placket of Design 1 is set into a cutout section of the bodice. (The collar is not illustrated in the pattern plot.) Top-stitching finishes the placket. Design 2 is included for practice.
E F

3/4 "

B C D

1" 1"

PLACKETS AND POCKETS Figure 2 Unfold and pencil in perforated line (broken line). Place paper underneath pattern and trace the placket and facing for the right side of garment (shaded area). Remove paper and pencil in the perforated line.
Figure 2
Paper underneath 2" Center

371

Figure 4 Placket for Right Side Fold the paper along placket edge. Square from the fold at neck, touching center line. (Broken line indicates original neck.) Trace the placket only (shaded area). Omit facing section. Unfold and pencil in a perforated line. (The finished pattern shape is shown.)
Figure 4
Paper Fold

E 3/4 "

Figure 3 Repeat for the other side, tracing placket across at level with point B (shaded area). Note that the point of the placket is not included. Remove the paper and pencil in a perforated line.

Figure 5 Placket for Left Side Repeat for the other side.

Figure 3
Paper underneath

Figure 5
Paper Fold

Center

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Chapter 17
Figure 6 Figure 7

Figures 6, 7 Placket Add seams and label Right-side-up. The shaded area indicates facing side of the placket. Figure 8 Bodice Section Add seams, notches, and grainline. Cut from the paper, trimming excess from placket inset area, and unfold. Cut basic back to complete the design.
Figure 8
Paper

Right-side-up

Right-side-up

BODICE FRONT

Wing Collar Placket

Design Analysis
Design 1 features an all-in-one placket and collar set into a cut-out opening in front. The placket is connected halfway, ending at the shoulder-neck location. The seam allowance is indicated because of its unique feature. Design 2 is included for practice.

Design 2

Design 1

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373

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace front pattern on left side of the paper. AB placket length (example: 10 inches). AC depth of opening (example: 6 inches) Mark. AE 1 1/2 inches or more. Draw a curved line from E to F and E to C. Blend. BD 1 1/2 inches, squared from B. Connect a slightly curved line from D to F. Place paper underneath and trace the placket (B, D, F, E, C, to B). Remove paper and pencil in a perforated line.
Figure 1 Paper Paper F

Figure 2 Finish the placket with 1/4-inch seam allowance. Notch. Cut four pieces, self-faced (placket joined from C to B).
Figure 2

E 1 1/2 "

D B 1 1/2 "

Figure 3 Bodice Fold paper at center front. Add seam allowance (1/4 inch where the placket is attached). Cut from the paper, trimming excess from the placket insert area. Cut the basic back to complete the design.
Figure 3 Paper

BODICE FRONT

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Chapter 17 Draw a parallel line equal to the desired width (example: 1 1/2 inches). Label C and D and mid-point E. Band is selffaced. To stitch, fold the band at point E, with points C and D touching. Stitch across the top and on one side at band. The raw edge of the band stitches to the B side of the slit on the garment. (The band is the underlay to conceal the opening and for button attachment.) The facing is then attached to the garment, concealing all raw edges around the neck and slit. Draw the grainline.
Figure 1
1 1/2 " Slit 1 1/2 "

Slit Opening with Placket

Design 1

Design 2

B Loop placement

Design Analysis
Placket band of Design 1 is attached to a slit on one side of the garment, and three spaghetti loops and buttons are used for closure. Design 2 is for practice.
Facing Center front

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace and cut a full front. Draw an 8-inch parallel line for the slit, 2 inches out from center line. Draw another line 1/16 inch from the slit line. (Space is needed for the width of the pencil lead when tracing the pattern on the paper or fabric, or when making a marker.) Cut the slit line and crossnotch end. Label A and B. Mark for loops. Draw facing 1 1/2 inches wide (indicated by broken lines). Transfer facing by placing the paper under the pattern (broken line area). Remove the pattern. Pencil in facing. Figure 2 Completed Facings Facing can be separated, as illustrated, or developed as one-piece facing. Figure 3 Placket Extension Band Draw a line twice the length of the slit (example: 16 inches).

Figure 2
FACINGS A B

Figure 3 C

Fold up for facing side

D 1 1/2 "

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375

POCKETS
A pocket is a cavity or pouch that has a closed end and is usually sewn into or onto a garment. It can be a decorative feature, a functional feature, or both. Its primary use is as a depository or temporary holding place for items or hands. A pocket opening should be wide enough for hands and deep enough to keep objects from falling out. Pockets are designed for all types of garments. Pocket size, shape, and placement should complement the design of the garment.

Pocket Classification
Outside Pockets
Pockets such as the patch pocket are attached to the outside of a garment. This type of pocket can be designed in a number of sizes and shapes, with or without a flap.

Patch Pocket
Draw the pocket design on the shirt pattern. Mark the location of the pocket by chalk, or thread for individual garments. For mass-produced garments, industry uses a drill to burn a hole in the fabric. To cover the damage in the fabric, the punch/circle symbols are marked 1/8 inch in from the corners of the drawn pocket.

Figure 1 Paper 1" 2 1/2 "

Inserted Pockets
Pockets are inserted into a straight or stylized seam, with the cavity or pouch on the inside of the garment. Inserted pockets can also be stitched to the inside of a garment, giving the appearance of a patch pocket on the right side of the garment.

5" 1"

Welt Pockets
Welt pockets are characterized by a separate strip or flap stitched to the pocket opening, with the pouch falling to the inside of the garment. The pockets can have a double welt or single welt, or they can be stylized with or without flaps.

Basic Unlined Pocket

Figure 1 Fold the paper and draft half the pocket. Add seams of 1/2 inch and 1 1/4 inches at the opening. Cut from the paper. Cut in fabric and stitch to the garment. Sewing instruction follows.

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Chapter 17

Sewing Instruction
Figure 2 Fold the hem to the face side of the pocket and stitch the ends. Turn the seam and stitch the pocket hem.
1/2 " Figure 2

Pocket and Flap in-One

Figure 5 Trace pocket on the fold. Options: The pocket flap may be faced by tracing (shaded area). The pocket can also be cut twice (self-faced).
Figure 5
1/4 "

Paper

FACING

1 1/2

2 1/2 "

Fold line

POCKET

Setting the Pocket

Figure 3 Fold and press the 1/2-inch seams. Place the pocket on the garment, covering the marks. The pocket should be parallel with the center front.
Placement mark Figure 3

Pocket with Separate Flap

Figure 6 The basic pocket with a separate flap is illustrated. Follow the sewing instructions given in Figures 2, 3, and 4. See the flap instruction on page 381, Figure 8.

Hem folded under and pressed

Figure 6
1/2 " 1/4 " FLAP

Fold line

1"

Figure 4 Back tack and continue stitching around the pocket, ending with a back tack.
Placement mark Back tack Figure 4

POCKET

1/2 "

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377

Inserted Seam Pocket

The entry is an angle line in from the side waist. To complete the pant, see Chapter 26, and for the skirt, see Chapter 13.

Entry Facing
Figures 2a, b, c Trace and draw the pocket facing (shaded area, Figure 2a). Add 1/2-inch seams to the pocket pouch and 1/4 inch at entry. Label. Cut from the paper and trace the facing pattern (Figures 2b and 2c). Label.
Figure 2a 1 1/2 " Figure 2b Figure 2c

ing

Fac

2" POCKET LINING

Entry/Pocket Pouch
Figures 1a, b Trace the upper part of the pattern and draw the pocket shape (Figure 1a). Trace two copies. Draw the pocket entry on one copy of the pouch pocket (Figure 1b). Cut from the paper. Trim entry.
Figure 1a
4"

Pocket Backing/Facing
Figures 3a, b, c Draw the facing for the backing (shaded area) (Figure 3a). Add 1/2-inch seams to the backing pocket. Cut pocket from paper and trace the back facing (Figures 3b and 3c). Label.

12 "

Figure 3a 3 1/4 "

6 1/2 "

Figure 3b FACING

FA

CIN

Figure 3c

Figure 1b

1 3/4 "

6"

En try

2"

POCKET BACKING

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Chapter 17

Jean Pocket
Design Analysis
The pocket can be drafted from the waistline or from a lowered waistline. The style is but one of a number of pocket variations. The small inside pocket is an option. Changing the style of the pocket will not affect the instruction. The same pocket can be drafted with an abdomen or a pleat support. Refer to Chapter 26.

Figure 1a X 5" Figure 1b 7"

Pocket BackingLining Pattern

Figures 1a, b The side waist is labeled X. Draw the pant pocket indicated by the measurements from point X (Figure 1a). Trace the pocket. Add 1/2-inch seams (Figure 1b).

POCKET LINING

Figure 2a

Figure 2b

Pocket BackingFacing Pattern

Figures 2a, b, c Draw the facing pattern 2 inches up from the lining (Figure 2a). Inside Pocket Draw the inside pocket using the measurements given. (The pocket ends at the facing hemline.) Mark punch/circles 1/8 inch in from each corner. Trace the facing. Add 1/2-inch seams (Figure 2b). Trace the inside pocket. Add 1/2-inch seams (Figure 2c).

X 1" 1" 2 3/4 " FACING

2"

Figure 2c

INSIDE POCKET

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379

Pocket EntryFacing Pattern

Figures 3a, b Draw the shape of the pocket entry using measurements from point X (Figure 3a). Trace the pocket entry. Add 1/2-inch seams and 1/4 inch at entry (Figure 3b). The pant pattern is trimmed to the entry shape. Add 1/4 inch at entry and 1/2 inch to the remaining patterns.

Figure 3a X 2 3/4 "

4" Trim

Pant

Figure 3b

POCKET LINING

Pocket-in-One with the Side Seam

Design Analysis
The pocket is drafted from a straight side seam or styleline on any garment (a flare skirt is illustrated). Figure 1 Trace the patterns. Draw the front pocket. Fold the paper and trace. Unfold and outline the traced pocket. Mark 1 1/2 and 6 inches down from the waist (entry space), and 1/8 inch from the fold line. Trace the front pocket to the back pattern. Add 1/2-inch seams and cut from the fabric.
Figure 1

Figure 2 Sewing Guide Pin the right side of the fabrics together. Stitch the side seams and pockets together. Stitch down and up from each mark to establish the pocket entry. Fold the pocket to the front waist and stitch.

Figure 2

3" 1 1/2 " 6" 12 " 5"

Fo

ld

FRONT W.S.

Clip

BACK

S.S.

S.S.

FRONT

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Chapter 17

Accordion Pocket
The pocket looks like the bellows of an accordion. It is a utility pocket for military and industrial garments. The pocket has now become a fashion detail for sportswear such as pants, jackets, coats, and tailored dresses. Figure 2 BD 3/4 inch (pleat depth). CE BD Square lines in from D and up from E, and mark F. Divide B to F and C to F into fourths (indicated by the broken lines). Number each section as illustrated. Draw connecting lines from 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 to F. Repeat the process on the other side of the pocket.
Figure 2

Figure 1 The pockets width and length should be in perfect balance with the design of the garment. Draw the pocket rectangle 6 5 inches. Mark corners A. Pleats desired: 2 pleats (or more). (Depth of each pleat is 3/4 inch, plus the underlay of 3/4 inch totals 1 1/2 inches.) AB 3 inches (two pleats). Square from A and up front B. Repeat on other side. AC AB, squared down from A, square across.
Figure 1
1"

D 2 4 3/4 " A B1 F 3 3

2 1 C E 3/4 "

6"

Figure 3 Draw the pocket flap 5 2 inches. Add seams. Interface the pocket flap.
Figure 3

B 3"

5"

B
2"

5"

PLACKETS AND POCKETS Figure 4 Add seam allowance. Trim the unneeded part of the zigzag. Cut the pocket and flap in fabric. Interface the pocket flap.
Figure 4 1"

381

Figures 7a, b Edge-stitch each pleat. Fold the pleats in place and press together. Place the pocket on the garment and fold the seam allowance under. Edge-stitch the pocket to the garment (Figure 7a). To secure the pleats, fold-back the first pleat and stitch the remaining pleats to the garment (Figure 7b).
Figure 7b Figure 7a
Secure the pleats

1/2 " F B C C F

1/2 " B

Stitching Guide
Figure 5 Turn the fabric wrong-side-out. Turn hem 1/4 inch and stitch. Figure 6 Bring C to B together and stitch, ending at F. Clip and repeat, stitching on the other side. Turn the fabric to the right side.
Figure 5
Hem 1/2 "

Figure 6 Clip Clip BC

1/4 "

Figure 8 Pocket Flap Place right sides togetherstitch and turn rightside-out. Press and top-stitch. Overlock or serge the raw edge. Place the pocket flap 1/2 inch above the pocket and stitch across. Angle-stitch at each end to secure.
Figure 8

F
Cross stitch

Fo

ld
Back stitch

W.S.

R.S.

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Chapter 17 Figures 1a, b Trace the garment and draw the pocket. Trace the pocket. Draw and trace the facing and interfacing patterns. Notch 1 inch (X). Add 1/2-inch seams, 1/4 inch at entry. Stitch facing to pocket. Fold seams and press. Stitch the pocket to the garment and stitch to X.
Figure 1a Figure 1b X 5 1/2 " Facing Paper 2" X 3"

Stylized Outside Pocket

Outside pockets can be of any design. They are stitched flat on top of the garment.

c Fa

in

6" Cut 4 and 2 interfacing

POCKET

Lift-Away Pocket
Figure 1 A band is stitched around three sides of the pocket (excluding entry). A buckle is attached to a belt (self or leather). A belt is stitched to garment. Figure 2 Draw pocket width and length, as desired. Allow 1 inch for hem at the length end. Figures 3a, b, c, d Banding length: Equals 3 sides of the pocket. Banding width: 1 inch (or more) (Figure 3a). Buckle/belt: Buckle controls the width and length of the closure (Figure 3b). Buckle hold secures the buckle (Figure 3c). It is stitched to the belt (Figure 3d). Sewing guide: The top of the belt is stitched to garment. Closure: Velcro (attached to pocket and belt).
Figure 3a
1/2 " Pocket banding

Figure 1
Closure: velcro

Center front Figure 3b

Buckle

Figure 3c
Buckle hold 1/4 "

Figure 2
1" Hem Fold

Figure 3d Belt
1/2 "

1/4 "

1/2 "

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383

Pocket with Hidden Side Seam

Design Analysis
The curve of the side seam is straightened to develop this style of pocket. The extra fullness can be gathered or taken up by folded pleats (front and back). Entry at side seam.

Figures 2a, b, c First copy: Pocket Facing. Add 1/2-inch seams (Figure 2a). Second copy: Draw and cut a 1-inch panel parallel line from the pocket (Figure 2b). Label the remaining pocket Pocket Backing (Figure 2c). Add 1/2-inch seams.
Figure 2a Figure 2b 1" Figure 2c

B A POCKET FACING POCKET BACKING X

Figure 1 Draw a line up from the outermost curve of the front hip to waist level. Mark notches 1 inches and 6 inches down from side waist. Label X (entry). Draw a pocket pouch 1 inch down from X using the measurements given. Trace two copies of the pocket.
Figure 1 3 1/2 " 1"

Figure 3 Draw a line up from the outermost curve of the back hip to waist level. Increase each dart equally to take up the extra fullness. (Broken line is the original dart.) Tape the 1-inch panel (A) to the side seam of the back pattern. Add 1/2-inch seams.
Figure 3

Center front

6" 5" X 1" 4"

B
A
ET POCK G IN K C BA

X
Panel attached to side seam BACK

Sewing guide: Stitch the pocket backing (B) to the panel (A). Stitch the facing to the front pant entry. Pin the front and back side seams together and stitch (back stitch) 1 inch down from the side waist. Stitch (back stitch) down from X. Sew the pocket together.