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BY
CHARLES L. BERNHEIMER
ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM
PHOTOGRAPHS
1926
9-; 1480
MY WIFE
CLARA S. BERNHEIMER
FOREWORD
vii
viii
FOREWORD
CONTENTS
PASS
Navajo Mountain 6
Kayenta 19
Bluff 30
Expedition of 1921 34
Betatakin 35
Inscription House 37
Not-si-san 4*
Navajo Canyon 56
Stumped 7
Goldenrod Canyon 70
Change of Objective 72
Beaver Creek 73
The Baldheads 75
Homeward in 1921 85
ix
x CONTENTS
FAOE
Sagito ioi
Substitutes 111
Keetseel 136
Medicines 139
Aztec 145
Shiprock 147
Tse-a-Chong 153
Greasewood 165
Appendix 181
DRAMATIS PERSONS
Earl H. Morris
Charles L. Bernheimer
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FACINO PACK
boards 4
The Rainbow Bridge, 308 feet high and 274 feet between
its abutments 5
Mountain 20
rado River 44
xiii
FACING PAQI
the Canyon 53
countered 68
Camp 76
Rainbow Bridge 92
Name Mesa 96
No Name Mesa 97
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xv
FAOINO PAGE
Canyon 176
MAPS
Expedition 146
RAINBOW BRIDGE
RAINBOW BRIDGE
be a safe pilot.
RAINBOW BRIDGE
frogs.
RAINBOW BRIDGE
Navajo Mountain
Agathla Needle and the San Juan River, lay before us,
RAINBOW BRIDGE
Melted snow was the nectar. I not only ate the full
biblically correct.
RAINBOW BRIDGE
12
RAINBOW BRIDGE
could not have been better. Each man had his par-
14 RAINBOW BRIDGE
all knew whose fault it was and also that he had been
next water was a long way off, it was night and in the
morrow, or later."
matured claims.
i6
RAINBOW BRIDGE
dollar, that night and the same in the morning, was the
night before.
be maintained.
size him up, and more or less crudely try him out.
time I did not relish climbing the bare, very steep ap-
18 RAINBOW BRIDGE
His prompt reply was: "Not I," and this was followed
all around are the rule. For where one can of tomatoes
fort and health, are palatable and not too bulky for
Kayenta
from Kayenta.
RAINBOW BRIDGE
came unnecessary.
robust growth.
22
RAINBOW BRIDGE
As a rule the Navajo men are tall, lanky, and good look-
24 RAINBOW BRIDGE
culosis!
ever.
26
RAINBOW BRIDGE
the men.
and able brave could pull out its full body and thus be
the earth and hooking his weight by one leg, were phe-
28
RAINBOW BRIDGE
of the Navajo.
30 RAINBOW BRIDGE
full, for not only the Indian children and youths turned
it here.
Bluff
flock.
32
RAINBOW BRIDGE
RAINBOW BRIDGE
Expedition of IQ2I
lier conjectures.
Betatakin
36 RAINBOW BRIDGE
was trying because the morning sun was hot and the
trail, where there was one, was very steep, and where
Inscription House
38
RAINBOW BRIDGE
RAINBOW BRIDGE
mushrooms.
camp.
Not-si-san
RAINBOW BRIDGE
regions.
44 RAINBOW BRIDGE
his system and had given him trouble for six months.
46 RAINBOW BRIDGE
serve.
48
RAINBOW BRIDGE
ing, but the descent was steep and staggering, with noth-
50 RAINBOW BRIDGE
five miles below the mouth of the San Juan River. The
52 RAINBOW BRIDGE
almost unbearable.
near here.
the doe came back and passed us not fifty feet from
54 RAINBOW BRIDGE
vating.
56 RAINBOW BRIDGE
once been a spring, but was now dried up. What little
Navajo Canyon
tered around us and did not dare to enter the nest until
that the rest of the canyon, that is, the part we did not
58 RAINBOW BRIDGE
cade Ruin.
Our Indian, who with his family were the only in-
6o RAINBOW BRIDGE
ter's husband, she must never visit the new home except
cut into the hogan opposite the entrance and the dwell-
of the illness which has carried away his loved one, fears
season.
hundred feet long and not very deep. There are four
62 RAINBOW BRIDGE
densed milk.
pend on what one can carry along and what one can
Cigars."
64
RAINBOW BRIDGE
even after it was soaped and rinsed, but the dirt was
minutes the towel was dry and the sand could then be
the 7th, we did not get under way until eight o'clock.
66 RAINBOW BRIDGE
Stumped
sand, but there was water in the rock pools and good
and spur, and strong language, the kind they have most
68
RAINBOW BRIDGE
would look east or west for a way out. Had any mis-
70 RAINBOW BRIDGE
had ever been over one like it. He led us. We fol-
Goldenrod Canyon
this camp of July 8th to 9th the best thus far on the trip.
72 RAINBOW BRIDGE
Change of Objective
Beaver Creek
74 RAINBOW BRIDGE
Our view was unobstructed for miles and the San Juan
The Baldheads
76
RAINBOW BRIDGE
into view.
78
RAINBOW BRIDGE
hide the bare rocks; but here the earth ball is in com-
its snow cover for six months out of the year. Thus
8o
RAINBOW BRIDGE
easy.
qualified.
every side they spread, bloom, and fill the air with
82
RAINBOW BRIDGE
The latter, about six miles from the Bridge, enters the
84
RAINBOW BRIDGE
Homeward in IQ2I
86
RAINBOW BRIDGE
jaunts.
or grazing there.
The Indians who had made the trail for their own use
88
RAINBOW BRIDGE
ends with sand and stones while the two trees protected
A ditch around the tent, to carry off the water that did
We had ants in our bed all night, but being used to the
9o
RAINBOW BRIDGE
bacon, soda crackers, and jam being very low, the men
far from the shore of the San Juan River into which
rock holes.
92
RAINBOW BRIDGE
journey of discovery.
powers, is essential.
95
98
RAINBOW BRIDGE
except one mule, which with its heavy pack got in deep
off his load, four men with the aid of ropes and shovel
off into the canyon. Two of our best men were hours
Our camp site that night was an ideal spot from the
ing and repacking our loads. The trees were too close
together, the rocks jutted out every few feet, and the
if tightened.
him out.
Sagito
because the sheep and the goats cut the grass too close,
was before us, a thousand feet of it. The July sun was
slope.
lips.
our outfitting.
came upon two places where the rocks of the pass had
slipping sand and rock pile was not comforting but the
men made light even of this task. The real surprise was
from the east. Deep down, far off to the east, were
sand, but the lowest, placed just where the slit abruptly
bour, and risk. Our men were full of the same spirit
no RAINBOW BRIDGE
days for this part of the work and these were not
in
erous.
Substitutes
The roots of the yucca weed served for soap, and when
water stuck into the cigar box both tightened its con-
Camp Loafing
The Painted Rock ruins were but 600 feet from our
someone might not come who would tell those who are
salts present: red for iron, green for copper, black for
n6 RAINBOW BRIDGE
n8 RAINBOW BRIDGE
substitute.
Not more than 400 feet from our camp was a won-
food.
antiseptic touch.
Charcoal Cave
intricate weave.
of systematic excavation.
No Name Mesa
summit.
had seen in the rock and suggested using the rest of the
growing crops.
unrecognizable.
Homeward in 1922
Nasja Creek
ever, had destroyed all that human hands had once con-
Cha Brook
one in fair health could now make the trip to the Rain-
any one, after the first two days' travel. Those who
arm. Lying on its side, just off our trail, was the dead
dicated that the mare had met her death the day be-
soned that the colt would be an easy prey when she was
mood before.
his nose into the liquid and held it until he either drank
camp, which was our objective, but the colt stood the
name.
did not stop for lunch. Our trail crossed the plateau
Keetseel
of desert plant.
ten miles than the other way, had been found, thanks
Medicines
and on legs and hands after cactus points have been cut
Ho RAINBOW BRIDGE
hospital in Albuquerque.
and sand then look hallowed and the air of the desert
make peace and good will its motto for the day. The
tipped lily cups to the toad that sits by its side, watch-
ing for the flies that its nectar entices. The Mariposa
Aztec
us
Shiprock
black rock rises sheer and bold. Visible for one hundred
Cemetery Ridge
House.
ing the annual rings of the giant Sequoia trees, the old-
particular sepulchre.
under its frame with wire and rope prevented the car
Ford was none the worse for the trip. Pale green flint,
night was cold and dreary but we had water and that
the Rev. Mr. Hookum, ten miles off the main road, as
far as it would go, which was not very far, for a rock
ripped a six-inch hole in our oil tank and tore out two
noon and far into the night our two repair men, Wether-
Tse-a-Chong
that one man, who some twenty years earlier had tried
to get in, was chased out by his people. The ruins had
the setting sun was still glowing in the sky, though its
The body and the senses are tired. They claim the
rest due them soon after the head touches the pillow,
but now and then there is time for the eye to be trans-
Long before dawn Al, Jess, and the Indian were out
feet above the canyon bottom and the steps cut into
air, and were too small for entrances, must have been
ancient ruin.
Petroglyph Rock
and Etruscans.
Round Rock
preference is, and always has been, for horse and mule.
his hands.
and two hours later our pack animals, all in fair condi-
Greasewood
Screen Cave
actual digging.
Mummy Cave
a knot and each knot still held the quill of what was once
men playing flutes found not far from here may have
Antelope Cave
head.
of the graves.
POSTSCRIPT
POSTSCRIPT
postscript.
postscript, it is appended:
Department of Anthropology,
in order.
Lands east of the Colorado River and south of the San Juan
River.
at Kayenta, Arizona.
175
let.
Navajo Canyon
entire length excepting a few miles at its head and about five
travel.
and the very few white men who have tried its quicksands. Its
lower reaches, the fifty-three miles from Jay-i Creek to the spot
alert examining the rim rocks and shores for a line of retreat in
the rim of the Kettle, though not hard, presented grave difficul-
ties and serious tangles when we finally descended into it, while
the ascent was most harassing. By this time our animals were
our party had his hands full and his mind weighted with re-
Cummings Mesa
The mesa top is about fifteen hundred feet above our camp.
miles long from north to south and about ten to twelve miles
very deep and wide major canyons. The top was literally
us felt certain that there are twice as many more. The top
is waterless and more than likely its population of the dim past
yond this neck the Mesa again spreads out into broad reaches.
east and southeast brink and had a close view of the shallow
and The Saddle, the latter the key to the trail we discovered
our head guide, John Wetherill, twelve years ago while leading
At that time, however, they spent but two hours on top, while
promising field for excavation, but it will mean dry work and
trying daily climbs (its top being about eight thousand feet above
sea level) from the camp and water at the foot of the Mesa.
Dinosaur Tracks
posed and more can be cleared by digging away the loose sand
fully ten of them are as clear and sharp and deep as if they had
largest has a spread of fourteen inches from the heel to the tip
Most Sincerely,
Charles L. Bernheimer.
the south and its exit from the north are over ex-
APPENDIX
gest.
Food Items
Sugar
Bacon
Whole Ham
Canned Beans
Steero Cubes
Cream of Wheat
Condensed Milk
Cherries
Canned Tomatoes
Cheese
Soda Biscuits
Flour in bag
Canned Peas
Cocoa
Honey
Canned Corn
Bran
Bread
Lard
Potatoes
Coffee
Tea
Catsup
Macaroni cannedpreferably
with Tomatoes
Seedless Raisins
Postum
Dried Prunes
glass
Baking Powder
Medicines
181
MedicinesContinued
Kondon's Jelly
Permanganate of Potassium
Strychnine
(for Dysentery)
Ammonia 15 %
Talcum Powder
Aspirin
Absorbent Cotton
Sterilized Gauze
Cathartics
Emetic
Cough Candy
Zinc Ointment
Scissors, sterilized
Scalpel, sterilized
or
Unguentine
Aristol
Peroxide of Hydrogen
Chlorazene
Iodine
Lanolin Cream
Resinol Salve
Pond's Extract
Jamaica Ginger
Alcohol
Ichthyol Salve
Mosquitone
packs
Bandage Rolls
Campho-Menthol Tablets
General Items
Hand Soap
Bar Soap
material
Unbleached Muslin
Matches
Toilet Paper
Photographic Camera
Films
Rubber-soled Shoes
Cotton Gauntlets
Cotton Bandana
ing
Horseback
Turkish Towels
Mosquito Netting
Safety Pins
Traveller's Checks