DISASSEMBLING A TWO-STROKE ENGINE

DISASSEMBLING A TWO STROKE ENGINE Disassembly of a two stroke engine is not dramatically different from the disassembly of a four stroke. The two stroke contains the same external components, a blower housing with recoil start, a fuel tank, an air cleaner and a carburetor, and a muffler. The two stroke will lack a camshaft and valves, meaning that it possesses fewer moving parts than a typical four stroke. The smaller size and lighter weight of a two stroke motor lends itself to easier disassembly. Since there are no valves in the two stroke engine, its cylinder and cylinder head are usually formed in just one piece. This one piece head and cylinder is sometimes referred to in service manuals as a cylinder pot. Before disassembly begins, disconnect the spark plug wire, and then remove the engine from its piece of equipment. After that, thoroughly clean the engine exterior. This cleaning should eliminate dirt, grease, and accumulated debris, making the engine simpler to disassemble. After the engine has been cleaned, its manufacturer information should be clear and readable. This engine information should be recorded now, and filed away so that it can be consulted if and when ordering replacement parts is necessary. This particular two stroke engine was manufactured by Ryan Ryobi, and its model number appears on an engine decal. Next drain all engine fluids. Since the lubricating oil is mixed with gasoline in most two stroke engines, only the fuel tank must be drained. To drain the fuel from this engine, we would simply remove the gas cap and turn the engine upside down over a suitable container. Next the blower housing should be extracted from the engine. It will be secured, as on this Ryobi engine, by a handful of small screws. With these screws removed, the blower housing and recoil start assembly can be lifted from the engine. Now the spark plug can be detached. This Ryobi employs a smaller plug than you would find on a typical four stroke. A 5/8 inch spark plug socket is required to loosen the plug. If the engine is to be only partially disassembled, you may want to leave the spark plug in the cylinder to prevent wayward dirt from entering the engine. If the engine will be completely disassembled, dirt is not an issue since the parts will all be cleaned prior to reassembly, and therefore the plug can be removed. The air cleaner on this Ryobi is located on the back of the engine underneath the fuel tank. It is secured by two screws. You will also notice a small knob on the air cleaner housing. On this engine, this knob operates the choke. Most two stroke engines harbor a choke control in the filter housing. On the other hand, the choke will be a part of the carburetor in most four stroke motors. Turning the choke knob on this Ryobi causes the carburetor inlet to become partially restricted. By restricting the air that flows into the carburetor, the choke increases the amount of fuel in the fuel air mixture, leaving the mixture rich and therefore more flammable. Beside the carburetor is the muffler. The Ryobi muffler is held in place by three retaining bolts. With the muffler safely out of the way, you can return to the carburetor. You will notice that the two stroke carburetor is far smaller and less complex than the one you would see on a four stroke engine. The carburetor on the Ryobi is attached to the engine with two retaining screws. Removing these allows the carburetor to be lifted from the engine; however the fuel line must be disconnected first. The fuel line on this engine is a small plastic tube which can be disconnected from its carburetor fitting by pulling it. Depending on the tightness of the fit, a pair of pliers(a medium pair of channellocking pliers is an excellent choice) may be necessary to work the fuel line free. Beneath the carburetor you will discover the engine back plate; this both covers the rear of the crankcase and provides a mount for the carburetor. On this Ryobi, the back plate also serves to secure the fuel tank. After the back plate has been removed, the fuel tank can be lifted from the engine block. The fuel air mixture will enter this engine through a hole in its back plate. On most two strokes, a tiny reed valve inside the fuel entry hole permits a one way flow. In other words, once fuel enters it will not be allowed to leak back out. A reed valve is nothing but a small piece of metal that bends in one direction but not the other. It ensures that the fuel air mixture remains inside the engine where it can be drawn into the crankcase, and from there transferred to the combustion chamber. The reed valve on most two strokes will be located on the engine back plate, either on the outer side of the back plate directly underneath the carburetor, or, as is

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the case with this Ryobi, on the inner side of the back plate. As previously noted, the back plate of this engine serves as its crankcase cover. Therefore, removing the back plate exposes both the crankshaft and connecting rod. As is the case with many two strokes, the Ryobi possesses a one piece connecting rod. Inside of the end that surrounds the crankshaft crankpin is a needle bearing. Often on two strokes, the crankshaft does not protrude from both ends of the crankcase, meaning that it will be supported by just one crankcase bearing. The crankshaft end visible beneath the back plate of this Ryobi engine has no bearing around it. Now you can flip the engine over, and begin work on its front. The electronic ignition system of the Ryobi is mounted alongside the flywheel. It can be detached by removing two retaining screws. After you have removed the ignition module, you can take off the flywheel. First you would remove the flywheel retaining nut. Do not be surprised if the flywheel retaining nut is less tight than the one you would see in a four stroke engine. In fact, in most two stroke disassemblies a flywheel holder will not even be needed to undo the retaining nut. If the retaining nut proves to be exceptionally tight, a flywheel holder can be used. Or you may consider employing an impact wrench that is powered by compressed air. On this engine, the spark plug socket used earlier can be fitted to a ratchet, and applied to the flywheel retaining nut. The flywheels on most two stroke engines are held in place exactly as they would be on a four stroke. The crankshaft end tapers to fit a tapered hole in the center of the flywheel. Before removing the flywheel, protect the crankshaft threads from damage by loosely screwing the retaining nut back onto the shaft. From there, tap on the end of the retaining nut with a hammer while prying up on the flywheel with a small pry bar. To prevent damage to the crankshaft end, be sure to use a soft faced hammer, or better yet, place a small piece of wood or plastic between the retaining nut and hammer. Two or three medium to strong hammer blows should free the flywheel. This Ryobi flywheel harbors two small metal levers on its top surface. These are known as pawls or dogs. The pawls are spring loaded, and they can swing in and out. When the engine is being started, the pawls will engage the recoil start mechanism in the blower housing, allowing it to turn the flywheel. When the recoil start is released, the pawls swing out of the way. At this point, just the main body of the engine is left to dissect. You can begin its disassembly by separating the cylinder pot from the crankcase. Two retaining bolts hold this cylinder pot and crankcase together. After you have unbolted the cylinder pot from the crankcase, the two components can be separated. Use caution when you pull away the cylinder pot because the piston will remain with the crankcase. As the pieces are drawn apart, the cylinder should slide from the piston with minor resistance. Pull the cylinder pot away slowly, and the piston will slide smoothly into view. The end of the connecting rod slides onto the short end of the crankshaft. As noted above, the Ryobi crankshaft is supported by just one crankcase bearing. The piston and connecting rod assembly can be slipped from the short end of the crankshaft and removed from the engine block. To separate the piston from its connecting rod, you will need to remove the wristpin. A small retaining clip holds the wristpin inside of the piston; with this clip removed, the wristpin can be pushed from the piston and the rod released. The clip is under some tension, so take care that it does not fly off and become lost during removal. With the piston and connecting rod out of the crankcase, it is time to remove the crankshaft. The single crankcase bearing that sustains the Ryobi crankshaft will be tightly fitted onto the crankshaft end. To remove the crankshaft, you must tap on its end to force it out of the bearing. To avoid damaging the crankshaft end, do as you did earlier with the flywheel: use a soft faced hammer, or place a small piece of wood or plastic between the hammer and crankshaft end. A few light taps should drive the crankshaft from the bearing. After the crankshaft is free, it can be extracted from the crankcase. When the crankshaft has been removed, the crankshaft bearing and seal can be extracted from the crankcase. This Ryobi utilizes a sealed bearing to support the crankshaft end. The difference between a sealed bearing and an ordinary ball bearing is that the latter works with a separate oil seal. A sealed bearing contains both bearing and seal in a single unified piece. The sealed bearing in the Ryobi is held in a machined crankcase hole; a large retaining clip prevents the bearing from slipping out. To remove the bearing, you must therefore remove the retaining clip. Use a pair of internal snap ring pliers, and remember to protect your eyes because the clip will be under some tension. When the clip is withdrawn, the bearing itself can be pulled from the crankcase. If a bearing is exceedingly tight in the crankcase hole, try tapping lightly on the outer edge of the bearing to coerce it free. Whenever you are tapping on a bearing, you should tap on its outer edge. On the other hand,

you should never tap on an inner bearing race; this area of the bearing is much more subject to damage. If tapping on the bearing is necessary, try using a socket which possesses the same diameter as the outer bearing edge. You would simply place the socket against the stubborn bearing(so that only the outer edge of the socket contacts the bearing), and tap it with a hammer.

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PRACTICAL-N0-2 AIMDismantle single cylinder diesel engine. Note the function of each part,reassemble the engine

Tools Required i) ii) iii) iv) v) Double end spanner. Ring spanner. Screw Driver & Hammer. Telescopic gauge. Vernier Calliper.

Dismantling Procedure i) Remove the crank shaft pulley along with the timing gear. Make sure you have marked the reference point. ii) iii) Remove the rocker cover Dismount the intake manifold and its accessories. Remove the fuel injector along with the pump. iv) v) Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove the cylinder head by unlocking the lock nuts. Before doing so, ensure that you have removed the valves along with the rocker arm assembly and the pushrods. vi) vii) viii) ix) x) xi) Remove the crankcase and drain the oil. Remove the connecting rod big end cap Remove the piston along with the connecting rod. Remove the piston rings along with the circlips. Remove the crankshaft bearings and pull out the crank shaft. Remove the camshaft as well.

Study : i) ii) iii) iv) The given engine is a 4-cylinder, 4-stroke In-Line vertical type engine. The engine is water-cooled and is pressure lubricated. The fuel is directly injected (DI injection). Naturally aspirated. Valve arrangement is over head valve type.

Assembling Procedure i) ii) Fit the crank shaft and the cam shaft assembly in the corresponding space provided in the block. Carefully insert the piston along with the connecting rod. Note that you have properly cleaned and lubricated the rings before assembling. iii) iv) v) vi) vii) viii) ix) x) Result : Thus the given multi cylinder diesel engine is dismantled, studied and assembled. Fit the connecting rod big end cap and tighten the lock nut. Fit in the crankcase along with the lubricating oil. Mount the cylinder head and tighten the lock nuts. Place the push rods, rocker arm assembly and the valves correspondingly. Mount the intake and exhaust manifold respectively. Fit the fuel injection system along with the injector. Fit the rocker cover and tighten the lock nut. Fit the crankshaft pulley along with the timing gear set up based on the reference point.