Cutting: Spreading & Cutting

SPREADING & CUTTING

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker. A spread may consist of a single ply or multiple plies. The height of a lay-up or spread is limited by fabric characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method, and the vertical capacity of the spreader. The number of plies in a spread may range from 1 to 300.

Spreading may be done manually or by computer-controlled machines. One person or two, depending on the width and type of fabric, type of equipment, and size of spread, may be involved with the spreading process.

Manual spreading:
This is the oldest method & requires two Operators standing opposite in spreading table the Operators work back from the end, aligning the edges & ensuring that there is no tension & no wrinkles the plies is normally. Cut with the hand shears or circular cutting machine. This system is highly time consuming process & it is very difficult to control uniform tension through out the plies in one lay & between lays.

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Cutting: Spreading & Cutting

Automatic Spreading Machine: Spreading machine carry the piece of from end to end of the spread distancing one ply at a time on to the spread. The basic elements consists of a frame or carriage, wheels, traveling in guide rails at the edge of the table, a fabric support and guide colors to controlling of unrolling of the fabric

Cutting:
Cutting is the pre-production process of separating (sectioning, carving, severing) a spread into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also involve transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment parts to assist operators in sewing. ACCURACY Accurate cutting facilitates sewing and improves garment quality. Inaccurate cutting may cause sewing operators to compensate by stretching or easing to make adjoining parts the same length. Manipulation of this sort increases sewing time and assembly costs and may cause defects and poor fit. When automated sewing equipment is used, garment parts must be cut accurately as there are no operators to make adjustments. Factors that cause cutting inaccuracies are Wide or vague lines on the marker Imprecise following of lines on the marker Variation in the cutting patch Shifting of the spread or block Allowing fabric to bunch up or push ahead of the knife Using improper equipment Using improper cutting sequence as parts are cut

CAD Cutting

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Cutting: Spreading & Cutting

The cutting pitch is the angle at which the cutting device contacts the spread. Cutting pitch determines the size uniformity, top ply to bottom ply, of pieces cut from in a single stack.. Maintaining the cutting device in a perfectly vertical position, a 90-degree pitch, and accurately guiding the knife through the spread creates uniformity. Materials may bunch up in front of the cutting device as it moves through the fabric if it is moved too fast.

Cutting Pitch

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