Digital Video for Beginners

A Lets Go Global guide for Ambition 09

A (very) short history of digital video 3

Choosing a camera. 3
Camera Formats. 3

Thinking about sound when choosing a camera 5

Video editing software 6

Free software 6

Paid Software 7

Shooting Guide 8
Decide on a style and analyse others work 8

Camera functions 8

Focus 8

Exposure 8

Framing 10

Remember you are recording sound as well as vision 10

Some tips 11

Editing your video 12

Capturing your footage. 12

Hard disk/flash memory capturing 12

Tape based media capturing (Mini DV/HDV) 12

Editing 12

Editing sound 13

Video effects 13

Transition effects 14

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 Sound effects and music 14

Distributing your video online 15

Choosing a video sharing site 15

youtube.com 15

blip.tv 15

vimeo.com 15

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A (very) short history of digital video
15 years ago, to edit video on a home PC, you would have to have a top of the range
computer costing thousands of pounds, external hardware to help capture the video and a
software package also costing thousands. Even then, video editing could be a slow and
painful process with the computer struggling to manage video data. To buy a camera that
was anything near broadcast quality was prohibitively expensive. Once you had made your
video the only way to distribute it would be to record to VHS or burn to a new, expensive
format, DVD, and then physically send out copies.

Now you can go into any shop in the high street and buy a computer for a few hundred
pounds, and most of the time you get video editing software free with the machine.
Cheap, high quality cameras are widely available that would have seemed unimaginable
not too long ago. Distributing your video free online using services such as youtube has
become a 1-click process. Using social networks to market and advertise your videos to a
potential worldwide audience gives you an unprecedented opportunity to get your video
and message into the world.

Choosing a camera
We work a lot with arts organisations starting to work with video, and one of the most
common questions is "Which camera should I buy?". Unfortunately there is no easy
answer.

As ever, a lot comes down to budget. The lower the price range, the less features and
quality you get.

However, the good news is that you can now buy a range of cameras for a few hundred
pounds that 15 years ago the quality of which would have seemed impossible.

Camera Formats.

For nearly a decade, if you were choosing a camcorder to buy you only really had one
choice: MiniDV, a tape based format introduced in 1995. The format was designed to be
easily editable on home video editing software, and the high end, semi-professional Mini
DV cameras could produce video comparable to professional broadcast cameras and
revolutionised the consumer video industry. Enabling

Recommending the right MiniDV camera was relatively easy. Generally the more money
you were able to spend the better the camera and more features

In the last few years however, the types and formats of camera available to the consumer
has multiplied. You can buy tiny flash based camera for under £100 up to high definition
shoulder mounted rigs. Part of the reason for this is the new ways that consumers are
watching video. Small point and shoot flash based cameras cater for those uploading
video to websites while HD cameras allow those with high definition televisions to see
scenes in far more detail.
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There are a multitude of camera formats to choose from, each with there own pro's and
con's.

• MiniDV - MiniDV cameras have been the standard format for camcorders and semi-
professional for a long time now. They range from simple point and shoot cameras which
can be bought for as little as £150 up to professional cameras with interchangeable
lenses costing thousands of pounds. Generally you need a computer with a firewire
interface to capture footage to your editing software, and you get your footage on to the
computer by recording it in real time, which can seem a bit of an anachronism in this
digital age. As a format MiniDV is well established and is supported by all video editing
software, and because the format has been around for a long time, good models of
camera are often cheaper than the equivalents in other formats. Higher quality models
have '3CCD's', which give far better colour than standard models. Another good thing
about tape formats is that you have a easily archival copy of your original footage as a
tape, which is generally easier to store than a computer file.

• HDV - is a high definition format that records onto MiniDV or DV Cam tapes and/or Solid
state drives depending on the camera. Although the footage can be recorded onto
MiniDV, it is an entirely different format. Depending on the camera, it can record 720p,
1080i or 1080p. For a time, many editing programs had difficulty in editing HDV footage
natively, as it is highly compressed, although in the last couple of years most editing
software has been upgraded to support HDV. You may need a more powerful computer
to edit HDV comfortably than is needed to edit DV though. While high definition
televisions are now commonplace the mechanisms to distribute HD films are not, with
less than 10% of UK households owning Blu-Ray players, and Blu-Ray burners still fairly
uncommon on computers. You can distribute High Definition video online through
services like Flickr and Vimeo, but viewers need a fast internet connection to view the
films comfortably. So overall HDV is a good format to choose if you will be distributing
video in high definition and is certainly more future proof than MiniDV, but if you are only
going to be uploading videos for online distribution or on to DVD then HDV may be
overkill for your needs.

• Hard disk - Probably the best thing about Hard drive based recorders is the amount of
video you can shoot, with a 30 gigabyte camera storing 430 minutes of SD footage
before you have to find your computer to download it. It is also faster to transfer the
footage to your editing program as you are just transferring data rather than playing the
footage out in real time as with a tape based format. Reviewing your footage on camera
is also more convenient as you can automatically watch different sections without having
to rewind tape.

• Flash Memory - Flash memory cameras tend to be smaller than tape and hard drive
based formats because camera designers no longer have to find ways to fit tape
mechanisms and large hard drives into the body of the camera. This is good news if the
size of your camera is your main concern. However there are some downsides. The
smaller body factor often means that the optic quality is inferior and there are less
features. Also, smaller cameras can be harder to hold for extended periods and can be
more prone to camera shake.

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• Mini DVD - The main benefit of using a camera that records onto Mini DVD is that you
are able to immediately play the discs on your home DVD player. However, they record
to MPEG2 which as a general rule is not an ideal format for editing.

Sound equipment

When reading the marketing material the camera manufacturers produce it is very easy to
forget that video cameras also record sound. If you only have a small budget I would argue
that buying a standard definition camera with at least a headphone socket to monitor
sound as you are shooting is far more important than a high-definition camera without one.

Many cameras also have external microphone sockets which allow you to plug in
microphones that record better sound than the on board mics. The problem is that these
cameras tend to be more expensive, especially once you have factored in the price of the
external mic.

If you do have a camera with a external microphone socket, a cheap external mic will more
than likely produce better sound than the onboard mic. Higher quality microphones
generally come with XLR connections which you may not have on your camera. You can
buy XLR to mini jack converters to solve this problem.

Three types of microphones often used with video cameras are:

• Handheld Mic - Handheld reporter style mics can be bought cheaply and are very
versatile. These can be used for interviews with many people or attached to a boom
and held above the scene.
• Lavaliere or Tie clip mic - These are small mics that can be attached to the subjects
clothing and can be used hands free. They are a good choice when you just have to
record one person.
• Shotgun mic - Shotgun mics are directional mics, mounted on top of your camera that
record the direction you are facing. They can be very expensive, though Rode make
a good quality shotgun mic called the ʻVideomicʼ with a mini jack connection that is
about £80, and was designed specifically for DV cameras: www.rodemic.com/
videomic/ .

It is more important than ever to monitor your sound as you are recording with
headphones when using external mics. You do not want to get back to edit your footage to
find out that the batteries in your mic were flat and you have no audio!

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Video editing software
There are many video editing software packages available to buy. The most important
thing is just to start. Having an intriguing or interesting story to tell is a thousand times
more important than the software (or camera) that you use. Almost all the programs listed
here have trial versions allowing you to try the software before making any purchase. Its
also a good idea, if possible, to start with a consumer cut down version of a professional
editing product, for example Vegas Movie Studio or Premiere elements. This way you can
learn the basics of editing and the particulars of that program for a small cost, without
being intimidated by the professional features of the full programs. This also allows you a
painless upgrade path to the professional versions of the software as and when your skills
develop and you need the pro features.

Some things to look out for are:

• Does your computer meet the minimum operating requirements for the software you
want to use? This is less of a problem than it used to be, mainly because you can buy
relatively powerful computers cheaply now.

• Does the software come as a bundle with other complimentary programs such as
DVD authoring software?

• Do you know anyone using the program already that can help you when you get
stuck?

• Is there resources and usergroups/forums online where you can ask questions/ read
tutorials?

Free software

• iMovie '09 - iMovie is bundled with macs, and is tightly integrated into the ilife suite of
products (iphoto, itunes, garageband, idvd). Whilst visually unlike every other editing
software, it is very easy to use, and has a vast range of export options that somewhat
demystify compression. Until recently apple offered a previous version, iMovie HD 6
available to download from there website, which offered a more traditional approach
video editing and can still be found online. For small form web videos either version of
imovie is more than capable.

• Windows Movie Maker - Windows movie maker was included with every version of
Windows up to Windows 7, but its replacement Windows Live Movie Maker can be
downloaded from the microsoft web site. While easy to use, in practice it is hampered
somewhat by a lack of features and by only being able to import and export certain types
of video. Saying that, as a free and easy way to get started it is more than capable of
producing short video for the web.

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Paid Software

• Final Cut Express - £126 - Final Cut Express is a cut down version of the professional
software, Final Cut Pro. While the interface can be a little intimidating at first, there are
many good quality video tutorials on the Apple website to help get you started. A good
example of a program that 15 years ago would have cost 10's of thousands of pounds.

• Final Cut Studio - £799 - is a professional level suite of video editing applications, with
dedicated applications for editing sound, colour grading, DVD production, Motion
Graphics and Compressing video. Many films and TV programmes are made with Final
Cut Pro, and if you are relatively new to editing but want to use and learn a professional
package it makes sense to learn with Final Cut Express then upgrade to Final Cut Studio
once you know the basics and need the extra features.
• There are extensive tutorials on the Apple website to help you learn the program, and a
knowledgeable helpful forum if you have any questions.
• http://www.apple.com/finalcutexpress/
• http://www.apple.com/finalcutstudio/finalcutpro/

• Sony Vegas suite - £44.79/£74.69/£569.19 -The Sony Vegas product family comes in a
range of versions, from the professional Vegas Pro down to Vegas Movie Studio 9.
Whilst being relatively new software, Vegas has earned a deserved reputation for being
easy to use and stable and anyone who has ever done digital audio editing should feel
comfortable with its user interface. The minimum technical requirements are also less
than that of some of its rivals, making it a good choice for those with older computers,
and its pricing allows a smooth earned path for users looking for more features.
• http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/products/vegasfamily.asp

• Adobe Premiere Elements / Premiere Pro - £75/£757 - Premiere is one of the oldest
consumer video editing packages on the market, and is now available in 2 versions,
Elements and Pro. Whilst newer software has usurped its position somewhat, it is a very
capable software package in either form.
• www.adobe.com/products/premiere/
• www.adobe.com/products/premiereel/

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Shooting Guide
Decide on a style and analyse others work

- Before you start shooting decide on a style to use. Find a video online or a TV
programme that you like and has a similar style to what you want to achieve and see what
types of shot they use, how they are framed and how they are edited together. If you are
filming an interview analyse Newsnight! Just a simple exercise like playing back video in
slow motion and making quick sketches of the different shots is an invaluable way of
learning the grammar of film.

Once you have made a few videos this process becomes less important, but is one of the
best ways to learn film making and conventions of different genres. To put it simply, copy
the style and conventions of videos you like!

Legal aspects of shooting

It is important to consider legal aspects of making your film. At the very least you need to
get consent from your participants that you can use footage of them. At a push consent
can be given on camera but it is a better idea to use prepared image release forms.
If you are intend to film on private property you will need to get consent before starting
shooting.

4Docs has an excellent wiki page covering consent and other legal issues at:
http://www.4docs.org.uk/wiki/index.php/Legals

Camera functions

Focus

Virtually all cameras come with auto focus built in. This is great, but autofocus is not 100%
reliable. In low light for example auto focus can get 'lost', constantly changing and
searching for something to focus on. Unfortunately this can not be fixed whilst editing.

If you are able to manually focus on your camera, either with a ring or a 'focus' button, do
so. Particularly if your filming a static subject. To do this make the thing you want to focus
on the largest thing in the frame, then adjust the focus ring or press the 'focus' button for a
few seconds. Double check the picture then reframe the shot if needed.

Exposure

Exposure is the term used for the amount of light that is let into the camera. Virtually all
cameras have 'auto-exposure', where the camera will analyse the shot and try to make the
most 'natural' picture. However, this is not foolproof. If the shot is high contrast auto

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exposure may struggle. For example if you film someone inside with a window behind
them invariably the camera will expose what is outside the window correctly, making the
person too dark.

If you have a camera with manual controls, you can adjust the exposure by changing the
shutter speed and adjusting the iris (aperture).

The shutter speed is the amount of times per second that light is allowed to hit the camera.
So 1/6 is allowing light 6 times a second, and 1/120 is allowing light in 120 times a second.
The effect of this is that slower shutter speeds can produce motion blur in fast moving
objects. So higher shutter speeds reduce the effect of motion blur, but they also reduce the
amount of light, making the picture darker. This can be compensated for enlarging the Iris
and letting in more light.

The Iris or Aperture is the opening that lets in light through the lens. This is basically the
same as a stills camera iris. The larger the opening, the more light into the camera, the
brighter the shot. The effect of a large Iris setting is that less of the shot will be in focus, (it
will have a smaller depth of field). This gives cameras a slightly more 'filmic' look, but be
careful that you have correctly focused of the subject.

There is a good trick that works with some cameras that have both manual and automatic
modes. If you zoom into your subject whilst the camera is in auto mode, let the camera
expose the subject, and then switch to manual, you can then zoom out safe in the
knowledge that your subject is correctly exposed.

The number one thing to remember regarding exposure is always make sure your
exposure is set for the subject primarily. If you are using a camera without any manual
controls, move your subject to a place where they are correctly exposed.

White Balance

Different types of light source produce light with a slightly different hue. For example
sunlight is slightly blue and a tungsten bulbs produce light that is slightly orange. The
human eye does an excellent job of compensating for this, and it is not something that you
notice.

Cameras however need to work out colour temperature of each scene and compensate
accordingly. In cheaper cameras and pro cameras with automatic modes they do this
automatically, but they are fallible. You can see this by recording inside with tungsten bulbs
as the light source, then whilst recording walking outdoors into daylight. The outdoor shot
should appear ʻbluishʼ.

Professional and some consumer cameras have manual controls to do this, where you
point the camera at a white object reflecting the scenes light source and adjust the white
balance settings until the object appears white. This allows the camera to adjust the rest of
the colours in the shot accordingly. This is important and it is well worth learning to do
properly.

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If you do not have manual white balance controls there are a couple of things you can do
to cut down on the chances of shooting people with blue faces or streets with and orange
tint.
• Try not to mix light sources. Do not film by a window with daylight coming in with the
lights on in the room.
• Give the camera time to adjust to new colour temperature when changing shots. For
major changes in lighting it might even be worth turning the camera of and on again,
so that it measures the colour temperature from scratch.
• Always monitor the shot through the viewfinder or lcd screen. If the colours do not
look right, either turn the camera off and on again, change the light sources or
change location!

Framing

Framing your shot is all about composing your image. In essence the rules of framing
shots are the same as the same way you would take a photo. Framing is always
subjective, but it is worth learning some basic conventions.

• Rule of Thirds. The rule of thirds is a guideline rather than a rule. It breaks the frame up
into 9 sections, with lines running vertically and horizontally across the frame (see
image). Thinking of this helps to compose shots, by placing points of interest on the
cross sections, or locating different objects either along these lines. Often you find
yourself composing shots like this automatically as it 'looks right'. Do not worry if you are
unable to frame your shot using the rule of thirds, as it is not always appealing and is not
compulsory, but it is worth taking the time to experiment and understand the concept.

• Headroom is the amount of space left empty in the frame. A mistake often made by
beginners is leaving too much space around the head in close up shots for interviews.

• Leading/Looking room is space left in the shot in the direction that your subject is facing
or heading. If you are filming an interview, and the subject is facing to the right, make
sure the is more empty space on the right of the frame than the left. Doing this helps
frame your shot using the rule of thirds and also applies to inanimate objects.

• Don't use the zoom! A mistake people tend to make a lot when they start filming is to
zoom in and out often. This is a bad idea for a number of reasons. If you are shooting
handheld and zoom in then camera shake becomes a lot more pronounced. Some
cheaper cameras only have a digital rather than an optical zoom, meaning the video
loses quality. Zooming is also quite off putting to the viewer. Unless you are going for a
particular effect or are filming a 70's cop show it is best left alone! If you need to reframe
your shot move closer to the subject. An exception to this rule is using a slow zoom into
a subjects face when filming an interview, normally at a dramatic point in the interview, or
are filming a documentary where there is no other way to film the action.

Remember you are recording sound as well as vision

• When you find somewhere you want to shoot, shut your eyes and listen. Your brain tends
not to notice ambient noise and can zone it out, but the camera mic is not as developed

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 as your brain! If the area is noisy or too echoey shoot somewhere else! It is incredibly
hard if not impossible to fix badly recorded sound after the fact.

• If your camera has a headphone socket, USE IT! If the subject is too quiet or there is off
putting background noise move somewhere else! Three common things to listen out for
are air conditioners, noisy traffic and aeroplanes

• A problem that often occurs when people are new to shooting video is low dialogue
levels. This can be due to the quality of the onboard mic and the placement of the mic
and camera, the lack of headphone socket to monitor sound whilst recording and the
shyness of the person in front of camera. Do not be afraid to ask people to move to
quieter surroundings or to speak louder, you will get a much better result.

Some shooting tips

• When possible, try to shoot in places with lots of light. Even professional cameras can
struggle with picture quality in darker locations. Consumer cameras tend to boost the
gain when shooting in low light, a technique that makes the shot brighter but introduces
grain and artefacts.

• Try to use both eyes. This takes a bit of getting used to but is an invaluable technique
when filming documentary style. Keep one eye on the viewfinder and the other open and
watching your surroundings, or if your using a LCD screen on the camera take time to
look away at the subject and environment.

• Wherever you are shooting make sure that you get many shots of the surrounding area
and anything of interest. This means when you come to edit if you want to do a voiceover
for example you will have some footage to run over the top of the voice. Doing this also
provides 'cutaways'

• Record for 5 seconds before calling "action". Run the camera for 10 seconds at end of
shot. Often inexperienced camera people cut at soon as the action stops, allowing them
to miss out on interesting video. This also makes it easier to add transitions in the edit.

• Film for the edit! Be aware of the last shot. If you are filming something that you know is
going to be cut in sequence in the edit make sure the two shots are not of a similar
composition, or make sure you shoot cutaways.

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Editing your video
Now that you have filmed your shoot, you have to edit your masterpiece. While this can be
daunting for the novice, once you have understood a few key concepts you will be well on
your way.

Capturing your footage.

The first thing you have to do is get your footage from the camera and into the editing
program. This is a different process depending on whether you have shot on a tape or
memory based format.

Hard disk/flash memory capturing

With hard disk/flash memory cameras, the video footage you shot is a data file, the same
as you would find on your computer. You need to attach your camera, normally via USB or
firewire, then drag and drop your files to somewhere on your computer. Once you have
your video on your computer you can then add it to the 'bin' of your editing program by
either dragging and dropping, or going to file / import. [In some cases programmes,
(iMovie for example) the programmes copy video files straight into there own section of the
hard drive, meaning you can just copy the files straight from the camera to the editing
programme].

Tape based media capturing (Mini DV/HDV)

With MiniDV cameras, you normally connect the camera to the computer with a firewire
lead and turn the camera on. Start your editing program and it should automatically see
your camera. If it doesn't you may have to select 'capture' or 'import'. With tape, if you shot
an hour of footage it will take an hour to play and import. Its advisable not to do anything
taxing with the computer whilst capturing as you may get 'dropped frames'. While
capturing tape based formats to a computer invariably takes longer than hard disk/flash
based models, it does give you a chance to watch and take notes of your video whilst it is
importing.

Editing

Editing software generally has a 'bin' or ʻshelfʼ where you keep all your unedited video clips
and any audio or photos you want to use, and a ʻtimelineʼ where you put together your
clips to make an edited film.

A regular editing process would be to:

• Watch your footage, and if your were shooting without a script or storyboard write
down (or make a mental note for shorter videos) the intended structure of your film.

• If you are able within your editing program mark or arrange into folders or groups the
ʻgoodʼ shots that you intend to use.
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 • Depending on the editing program you are using, you either need to mark your in and
out points on your selected clips. This tells the editing program where to start and
stop playback of your clip once it is added to the timeline.

• Place them in sequence in the timeline.

• Watch your edited timeline a few times. Play around with the sequence of clips to see
what works. Don't be afraid to experiment. At this stage you can refer to your analysis
of others videos and see how they have been edited.

• If you need to tidy up any of the clips by adding or subtracting video from the
beginning or end of them do that now, either by editing them in the timeline (using a
razor blade tool for example), or re-trimming them in the bin and replacing the same
clip in the timeline.

• Repeat until you are happy with film. Its generally a good idea to create a well paced
edit that you are happy with before moving onto adding effects and titles.

In essence, that is all there is to editing. You can add sound and visual effects, transitions
and titles but all of these effects are secondary to an intriguing story well told.

Editing sound

Editing sound in its simplest form is making sure there are consistent sound levels
throughout the film. Ideally, with a big budget you would have a dedicated sound recordist
on the shoot with separate audio equipment, who would ensure that all the sound would
be recorded at the same level.

However, if there is some deviation in your sound between clips you should be able to
level it out somewhat by selecting your individual clips and trying to match them to each
other.

Video effects

All editing programs come with a range of video effects, that once applied to a clip
determine how your film looks in your final edit. These effects are often called filters. They
can make your film turn black and white, add fog or rain to your scene or make it seem an
earthquake is occurring.

As a general rule use these effects sparingly, as most of the effects available would not be
suitable. An effect which may be used subtly is ʻbrightness/contrastʻ or ʻexposureʼ. These
may be able to make you footage brighter with more contrast. Be warned though, applying
effects and filters in the edit is no easy fix for badly exposed footage.

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Transition effects

You are able to add transition effects so that rather than just cutting between shots, you
could fade to a colour and back again. Editing programs tend to come with many different
types of transitions. The two most commonly used are the fade either out from or into
black at the beginning and end of sequences or films, and the dissolve, where one scene
fades out as another fades in. The dissolve is a shorthand way of a film maker telling the
audience that time has passed between two separate scenes.

Sound effects and music

Sound effects and music can add texture and atmosphere to your production and give it a
sheen of professionalism. The most obvious thing to remember is to make sure you effects
and music do not detract from the dialogue.

Do make sure you have permission to use any music you add to the film. If you use music
without getting permission video hosting sites will remove your video if they are aware of
an infringement, and you may be leaving yourself open to legal action.

Many editing programmes come with a variety of sound effects and music that you can
use. You can also do a search online for copyright free or creative commons licensed
music.

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Distributing your video online
Choosing a video sharing site

There are many different video sharing sites that allow you to distribute your videos online
for free. Some of the things to consider when choosing a site to use are:
• Are there limits on the length and/or file size of uploaded videos?
• Does the site allow you to post or embed your videos into other sites?
• What video formats does the site accept?
• Does the site allow viewers to download video or subscribe to video podcasts?
• Is there advertising on the site? What type of adverts? Is the revenue shared?

Listed below are three popular video sharing sites. Wikipedia has an excellent page
comparing these and other video sharing sites here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_video_services

youtube.com

Youtube is by a long way the largest video sharing site, with over 70% of the market. You
are able to upload videos of up to 10 minutes in length with a free account, though you can
upload as many videos as you want. Once your videos are uploaded you can then embed
them into any webpage. Due to its dominant market position it is worth having a presence
on youtube, even though it does not have the features and video quality of some of its
rivals.

blip.tv

Blip.tv is more geared towards continuos shows rather than the one off or viral videos.
Videos can be any length as long as the uploaded file is under 1GB in size.
An interesting feature is that viewers can easily subscribe to your shows as a podcast,
meaning whenever you upload a new video it will be sent to the subscriberʼs computer
automatically.
Blip.tv shares 50% of the advertising revenue from your content with you, although you are
able to turn the adʼs off.
Like youtube, you can embed videos onto other websites, with the added bonus of being
able to have custom playlists of your other videos also shown within the embed.

vimeo.com

Vimeo is a site with a heavy emphasis on creative and community videos. It was the first
site to show HD videos. A free account allows you to upload 500MB of video a week,
including one HD video. If you upgrade to a pro account allows you to upload 5GB a week
with no limit on HD uploads, and lets you embed HD videos in other websites. This makes
it an obvious choice for videos that you want to show at high resolution.

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