Wave generation using the linear wavemaker theory the Bisel Transfer Function

Peter TROCH
Lecture notes from

Ghent University - Belgium

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering Ghent University

overview of presentation
used material for lecture notes introduction
a typical wave flume test set-up importance and development of wavemakers

simplified theory for plane wavemakers in shallow water complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers
the boundary value problem with linearized boundary conditions the Bisel transfer function performance graph of a wavemaker preparation of input signal

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

used material for lecture notes

Lecture notes Ph.D. course Experimental and numerical wave generation and analysis, Dr. Peter Frigaard, Hydraulics and Coastal Engineering Laboratory, Aalborg University, Denmark

Dean R.G., Dalrymple R.A., 1991. Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists. Advanced series on ocean engineering - Vol. 2. World Scientific Publishing Co., Singapore. ISBN 981-02-0421-3 Hughes S.A., 1993. Physical models and laboratory techniques in coastal engineering. Advanced series on ocean engineering - Vol. 7. World Scientific Publishing Co., Singapore. ISBN 981-02-1541-X

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

a typical wave flume test set-up

breakwater model

wave gauges

wave paddle

spending beach

foreshore

wave flume

active wave absorption

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

wavemakers in 2D wave flumes and 3D tanks

3D wave basin with multi-segmented wavemaker for wave generation 2D wave flume with piston-type wave paddle for wave generation
Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

importance of wavemakers ?
use of physical models in coastal engineering is based on the capability to create waves in small scale models those waves exhibit many of the characteristics of waves in nature waves in nature are generated by wind waves in the physical wave flume are generally not generated using wind, but using mechanical wave generation where a movable wave paddle (a wavemaker) is placed in the flume

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

development of wavemakers ?
the earliest wavemakers generated uniform waves by moving the wave paddle in a sinusoidal motion with a given amplitude e and period T
a very simplified approximation of waves in nature reasonable agreement to linear wave theory pioneering research using limited capabilities but making great strides in coastal engineering

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

development of wavemakers ?
development of technology (hydraulic servo-systems, computer, ) provided more control over the wave paddle motion resulting in better waves
irregular waves in the flume non-linear waves (Stokes, cnoidal, solitary waves) in the flume directional irregular waves in wave basin using multi-segmented wavemaker 2D and 3D active wave absorption hybrid modelling: coupling between fysical and numerical flumes etc

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

pioneering paper
first description by Bisel and Suquet (1951) in a series of French papers in La Houille Blanche, entitled les appareils generateurs de houles en laboratoire of:
analytical solution of the theoretical problem first order wavemaker theory for piston-type and flap-type wavemakers practical aspects

and considered as the basis for todays wave generation technology in hydraulic laboratories

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

simplified theory for plane wavemakers in shallow water

proposed by Galvin (1964) piston wavemaker with stroke S0 = 2e which is constant over water depth h shallow water region kh 10
0

from: Dean & Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, Vol. 2, World Scientific Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

simplified theory for plane wavemakers in shallow water

assumption: volume displaced crest volume of by wavemaker = propagating over stroke S0 wave form
L/2

S0 h =

H 2

sin ( kx ) dx

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

simplified theory for plane wavemakers in shallow water

calculations:
L/2

S0 h =

H 2

sin ( kx ) dx =

L/2 H 2k

sin ( kx ) d (kx ) = 2k 2 =
0

H k

defining K f = H S0 as the height-to-stroke ratio, we get

K fpiston =

H = kh S0

S0

and for flap type wavemaker, water volume displaced is 1 2 S0 h

K fflap =

H 1 = kh S0 2

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

simplified theory for plane wavemakers in shallow water

K f = H S0

kh
from: Dean & Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, Vol. 2, World Scientific Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers

assuming
inviscid incompressible fluid irrotational flow field

=0 v = 0

= const

a velocity potential ( x , z, t ) exists and the velocity field is

v = = grad
governing equations for potential flow are continuity equation and momentum equation boundary value problem similar to linear wave theory

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers

the continuity equation for incompressible flow

v = 0
combined with the definition v = Laplace equation: yields the well-known

( ) = 0

2 = 0

2 2 + =0 x 2 z 2

the Laplace equation is a linear partial differential equation (PDE) in ( x , z, t ) and is solved analytically for a specified set of linearized boundary conditions (BC) including paddle movement

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers

details of solution procedure e.g. in Dean & Dalrymple, or in Hughes

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

complete wavemaker theory for plane wavemakers

one progressive wave with k0

series of standing waves with k1, k2,

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

the Bisel transfer function

far field solution

generated progressive wave wave amplitude doesnt change with location phase shift / 2 relative to paddle displacement e given by

near field solution

series of standing waves exponential decay of wave k x amplitude with distance e n disturbance exists only near wave paddle for x < 2L take into account using active wave absorption at paddle incorporates difference between velocity profile generated by paddle and actual waves

e( z , t ) =

S ( z) sin (t ) 2

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

10

the Bisel transfer function

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

the Bisel transfer function

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

11

the Bisel transfer function

K f = H S0

kh
from: Dean & Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, Vol. 2, World Scientific Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

the Bisel transfer function

observations
piston-type wavemaker
K f = H S0 gradually increases from 0 to constant factor 2 for increasing frequencies increase is slower for smaller water depths, so decreasing wave generating capability for decreasing water depths factor 2 is asymptotic, usually in increasing part (0.5 1 Hz) in shallow water, linear approximation by Galvin for Kf 0, paddle amplitude e infinity: long wave compensation problematic for shallow water waves

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

12

the Bisel transfer function

observations
flap-type wavemaker
more difficult to build and operate due to hinges less value for money (smaller wave heights for same paddle displacement) even more difficult for long wave compensation for deeper water waves

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

performance graph of a wavemaker

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

13

performance graph of a wavemaker

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

preparation of input signal

Dept. of Civil Engineering Faculty of Engineering

Wave generation using linear wavemaker theory Dr. Peter TROCH Ghent University

14