N 44 11

STUG III G HYBRID

JAGDPANTHER
SD.KFZ 184 FERDINAND
STUG IV
PIGMENTS, APPLICATION AND FIXING
www.euromodelismo.com
PANI9lC9 5PC|AL
K Deseo suscribirme a la revista EuroModelismo por 12 nmeros al precio de 88
Want to subscribe to the magazine for 12 issues Euromodelismo price of 88
K Deseo suscribirme a la revista Panzer Aces por 6 nmeros al precio de 55 Europa 75,00 resto del mundo 95,00
Want to subscribe to the magazine Panzer Aces by 6 issues for the price of 55 Europe 75,00 Rest of the world 95.00
Euromodelismo n: ....... Panzer Aces n: ........ Weathering n: ........
Nombre/Name ...................................................Apellidos/Surname................................................................................
Domicilio/Address .........................................Localidad/City .............................................C. Postal/Zip Code .................
Telfono/Phone ...................................................e.mail:.................................................................................................
FORMAS DE PAGO/PAYMENT: K Giro postal (Espaa/Spain) K Contrareembolso (+ 9 , Espaa/Spain) K Visa
Titular Visa/Name ........................................................................................................DNI ...........................................
Visa n:...................................................................................Caducidad/Exp. Date........................................................
K Transferencia a/bank Transfer to. Accion Press, S.A.: Caja Madrid 2038-1854-24-6000008565
K Giro Bancario.(Espaa/Spain) Titular de la cta.: ......................................n cta. (20 digitos): ........................................
ACCION PRESS, S.A. C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 MADRID Tel. (+34) 913 675 708 Fax (+34) 914 085 841
www.euromodelismo.com e-mail: suscripciones@euromodelismo.com
PODRS SOLICITAR ESTAS REVISTAS DIRECTAMENTE A ACCIN PRESS S.A. O EN COMERCIOS ESPECIALIZADOS EN MODELISMO
S

t
t
|

I
t
I
t
B
|
1
t
|

N

H
YOU CAN ORDER DIRECTLY THESE MAGAZINES FROM ACCION PRESS S.A. OR IN SPECIALIZED STORES IN MODELING
Ya pueden leer la versin digital de Panzer Aces y Model Laboratory a
travs de pocketmags.com, itunes de Apple y Google Play
You can read the digital version of Panzer Aces and Model Laboratory
by pocketmags.com, Apple iTunes and Google Play
FANZEP ACE5 ~ ModeI Laboratory

f=I4Bl4|9 14
NMERO 1 GRATIS
Disponible mediante el Quiosco de Apple, iTunes,
Google Play para Android o en www.pocketmags.com
Revista dedicada al modelismo esttico de vehculos militares. Procesos paso a paso
realizados por los ms prestigiosos modelistas del panorama internacional. La revista posee
imgenes de alta calidad, infografas, vistas finales dnde se ven los modelos por todas las
vistas, perfiles realizados por expertos en vehculos militares. Trucos, tcnicas, consejos para
escenografias, pintura de figuras (tripulacin) y reportajes grficos de vehculos reales para
complementar los artculos.
ltimo nmero y nmeros atrasados por 6.99 cada uno.
Suscribete por un ao (6 nmeros) por 31.99
Descargalo para tu iPad, iPhone, Dispositivo Android, Mac, PC o Kindle Fire
www.euromodelismo.com
Para ms informacin / More information:
Panzer Aces: http://www.pocketmags.com/viewmagazine.aspx?titleid=1671&title=Panzer+Aces
Model Laboratory: http://www.pocketmags.com/viewmagazine.aspx?catid=1034&category=Hobbies+%26+Crafts&sub-
catid=212&subcategory=Scale+Modelling&title=Model+Laboratory&titleid=1850
REVISTA BIMESTRAL
N 40 11
N

4
0
1
1
6
APM
D
0P M
D
0LL|NC
M
AC
AI|N
A
P
M
D
0
P
M
D
0

L
L
|N
C
M
A
C
A
I
|N

AUSTRALIAN MATILDA MK.III/IV 35(T) SS-USCHA MIG JIMNEZ ENTREVISTA A NABUO YOSHIOKA
CAN DE ASALTO FINLANDS BT-42 T-55 ENIGMA LA BESTIA DEL ESTE (JSU-152)
www.euromodelismo.com
cs=cc:AL zAm:vA
SD.KFZ. 167 STURMGESCHUTZ IV, 1/35 SCALE
Alejandro Quintanas kit has a number of peculiar features: Added
armoring in the frontal area (some of it hinged), and the typical
camouflage conveying the shadows of the central European forests
confer it a singular appearance.
SD.KFZ 173 JAGDPANTHER, 1/48 SCALE
Tamiyas Jagdpanther kit does in fact give the hobbyist0000 some room to recreate a
number of color patterns. Jose Luis Lopez offers us one of the most unusual and
attractive ones. Its impeccable work using the latest techniques and products make this a
most interesting project.
2
SD.KFZ. 184 FERDINAND, 1/35 SCALE
A powerful German AFV hunter, quite ahead of its time which did
not meet the expected results because of its hurried production -and
introduction- to the battlefield. Mario Gabs does a highly realistic
piece of work, successfully transmitting the true image of these
monsters.
14
40
STURMGESCHUTZ III HYBRID, 1/35 SCALE
A rare kit obtained by mixing parts of different vehicles to recreate a Stug III. This unusual kit
by Jari Hemil is pretty much a unique piece and a very interesting creation
26
MODELLING LESSONS: APPLYING AND FIXING PIGMENTS.
Pigment painting can give us a range of finishes and textures by varying the application and
fixing techniques as we can very well see in this review.
58
1
PANZER ACES N 44 2013
l

6
0
F

8
1
8
l
8
For my taste, the Jagdpanther is the greatest
exponent of the Panzerjeger concept. This
panzerjaeger is a perfect balance of mobility,
armor and firepower (the powerful 8.8 Pak 43
from Tiger II) with aggressive and elegant
lines at the same time. Yes, its one of my
favorite AFVs.
By: Jos Luis Lpez Ruz pictures of the author
Tamiya 1/48
2
3
1.-SOME HISTORY
The Jagdpanthers gestation started in
late 1942 with a request for a heavy
panzerjeger using the 8.8 cm PAK 43
and the prototype designed by MIAG
which was shown in October 1943 to
Hitler.The concept was similar to other
tank hunters designs. A well proven and
reliable chassis form a Panther in this
case with a big and sloped casemate to
house the huge Pak with enough spare
space for the crew and spare ammo.
Enough frontal armor was provided with
a 80 mm sloped front plate and 60 mm
for the side plates. . A single 7.92 mm
Mg-34 machine gun for local defense
was placed in a ball mount to the right
hand side of the front glacis plate. The
machine gunner was also the wireless
operator. Based on the existing Panther
Ausf G chassis, the vehicle did not suffer
too many mechanical problems. It had
an upgraded transmission (the Zf Ak 7-
400 heavy duty) - whi ch had been
planned for the Panther II - and final dri-
ve to counter the Panther's main weak-
ness. It was manned by a crew of six: a
driver, radio-operator, commander, gun-
ner and two loaders.Two main variants
can be distinguished, the earlier (1944
model) G1 with a small internally bolted
main gun mantlet and a modified Pan-
ther A engine deck, and the later (1945
model) G2 with a larger simplified, out-
side-bolted mantlet and a modified Pan-
ther G engine deck, though late G1s also
had the larger mantlet. Side schurzen
were also provided for additional lateral
protection.Jagdpanthers were deployed at
heavy antitank battalions ( schwere
Panzerjger-Abteilung like 507, 654, 559)
and in other Herr and SS units, like
elites Panzer Lehr, Grossdeutchsland,
SS Hohenstaufen panzer di vi si ons
(whi ch depl oyed not l ess than 10
Jagdpanthers during the Hungarian cam-
paign) and other top panzer
4
2.-THE KIT
Another hit from Tamiyas 1/48 cata-
log. The kit is not only easy to build but
also has a reasonable level of detail, but
not enough if you want to make a realis-
tic replica of the real vehicle, I must con-
fess; the weak point of the kit is, once
again, the tools and the attachments, as
the general dimensions of the kit and the
level of detail on the upper roof, motor
deck and so on is superb.Hauler sets HLX
48067 (fenders) and 48074 (general
detailing) come to our rescue to help us
get the best from the Tamiya kit. If PE
sets are complex to manipulate in 1/35,
imagine in 1/48!. Also a little bit of
surgery is necessary in order to remove
all the spare track supports provided in
the kit at the sides of the vehicle and
some care to fill all the holes located at
the lateral plates of the tank to attach the
plastic parts of the tool attachments. But
the results, the delicate detail that these
kits provide to our tank is indispensable
if you want to make a detailed and realis-
tic Jagdpanther. I just added some more
extra minor details like the notek wire
and a metal gun form RB Models. The
always nice Friulmodel tracks are the final
touch for this beast.
5
3.-PAINTING THE FELINE
Although I found many attractive
camouflages for the early type Jagdpan-
ther during the Balaton Battle (all with
zimmerit, by the way), I did not find any
for late Jagdpanthers. I just found one
monochrome example belonging to the
Panzer Lehr (not too clear if green or dark
yellow) and a two color camouflage (dark
green and dark yellow) of an exemplar
belonging to an unknown unit in Hun-
gary.I just found a picture of a destroyed
Jagdpanther belonging to the SS Hohen-
staufen Panzer Division with solid white
numbers as an evidence of a three color
paint scheme. So, I decided to make a
typical late war three color Jagdpanther
camouflage, with the numerals of a com-
mand vehicle of any of the divisions and
units involved during the Hungary cam-
paign.
6
3.1.-Priming the kit.
Priming the kit is absolutely neces-
sary when youre a painting a kit
with so much metal in it. Its com-
pletely necessary to ensure that we
have a primer coat that will not let
paint peel off from the PE and metal
par ts of our ki t. For thi s task,
Tamiyas Primer is my best option. I
apply it using my airbrush, not direct-
ly from the can for a better control.
Anyway, you must be very careful in
this step or youll get a nicely granu-
lated surface!. If you have this prob-
lem, you can commit suicide or just
solve it. I strongly recommend solving
it!!!. How? Using an ultra thin sand
paper and tweezers you can remove
not only the granulated (dry paint) sur-
faces, but also smoothen the surface, a
ver y necessar y thing to get the best
results when youre painting the tank.
Just be careful with the PE parts or the
carpet monster will eat them without
mercy. Look at the pictures and check the
process and the difference between the
cleaned and granulated surfaces.
3.3.-Camouflage.
For this task, I used the typi-
cal German camouflage colors
Dark Yellow (RAL 7028), Dark
Green (RAL 6003) and Red
Brown (RAL 8017). For the first
two, I directly used the Gaia
Tank Colors from their military
series special set, very thinned
wi th Gai as own thi nner
(80%). Red hul l was made
using a customized mix with
Tami yas red hul l , red and
orange.As I did not want to
obscure the light grey almost to
a white base coat, I just applied
the di fferent col ors i n thei r
definitive place. So, I did not
apply a general dark yellow coat
and then the different color
patches as usual. As you can
see in the picture sequence, I
first applied the yellow, then
the dark green and finally the
red brown. Remember to use
highly diluted paint and do not
try to make the patches imme-
di atel y; take your ti me and
paint them little by little in thin
layers.
3.2.-Preparing the base for
the camouflage.
As I want a not too dark kit
once its finished, Ive looked
for a close to white base before
painting. In this case, I just
added some dark areas here and
there as I did not look for a
zenithal light effect look. No
pre-shading, just a bright base
for the camouflage.
3.5.-Chipping.
Thi s step makes the di fference
between a toy and reproduction of a real
AFV. But it also makes the difference
between a realistically weathered AFV
and a full of ants and insects vehicle
without any logic to it. So, its a danger-
ous step were less is more.I have a trick
for this. I imagine myself as a member of
the crew on the vehicle and I think if I
have to climb up to the tank, which one
is the easiest access to the upper part of
the vehicle and hatches?. If I have to
remove the tools to repair the tank, as
Im pretty clumsy, Ill ask myself where
and how Id hit the nearby surface
around the tools fastening. As Im not
Fernando Alonso driving my own Ferrari,
very careless driving is likely to happen,
and just where and how will I crash my
tank against walls, trees, buildings and
so on is what I need to ask myself. These
and many other questions will help you
paint the chipping in the logical spots on
your AFV. The shapes of these chips are
easy to see on pictures of the real vehi-
cles or even on the construction machin-
ery that you can see on our towns and
roads. Just use your favorite acr ylic
paints, a mix of red and black or any oth-
er specific color from AK or any other
brand, and wi th a fi ne brush and a
sponge (with moderation), youll get
your nice chippings. But be very careful
with PE parts!
8
3.4.-Acrylic Modulation.
In this step we start by using our
paint brush for the first time. Using the
same colors as previously used on each
area of the vehicle but slightly lightened
this once, I started to paint some details
of the kit to provide a more contrasted
color hue. Do not be shy in this step.
You can always darken a color later on if
you were too aggressive during this step,
but trying to highlight a part of a kit later
on is much more difficult and the results
do not end up being satisfactory.The
best places to use this acrylic modula-
tion is on corners, edges, hatches, bolts,
rivets and any prominent feature of the
vehicle.
3.6.-Decals.
I love Archer transfers and I use them as
many times as possible. I choose generic
iron crosses and outlined black numerals
from their 1/48 transfer range. The main
advantage is that they have nearly no thick-
ness once applied. The main inconvenient
is, that these must be carefully placed as
you havent a second chance with them.
3.7.-General Wash.
The main 1/48 scales drawback is
the lack of detail when compared with
the 1/35 scale. Due to the size, many
details of the kit are simplified on 1/48
kits and Tamiyas kits are the best exam-
ple of this as their first kits had the tools
molded over the fenders and had many
other simplifications that forced modelers
to remove them or look for other solu-
tions. And the only option was some-
times a more aggressive wash and a more
delicate and volumetric paint for these
areas.So, a general dark wash used to be
very necessary in this scale because it did
enhance the details all over the kit, which
is a very necessary step.For this task,
there are many products available from
AK, Mig Productions, and more recently,
Vallejos washes. For my taste, oils are
the best option as they allow you to cus-
tomize the color of your washes easily.
In this case, I used a natural umber oil
color. But dont forget to apply previously
a nice coat of acrylic satin varnish all
over the kit (this varnish will also protect
the transfers we applied in the previous
step). This not only helps to protect your
base color from forthcoming aggressive
weathering steps involving turpentine, oil
spirit or any other kind of thinner, but
this also lets the wash run smoothly
across all the kits recesses, slots and oth-
er molding details of you kit.
3.8.-Painting the accessories.
Its a morally important step as it will
allow you to see the final looks of your kit. I
just painted a general base color to tell the
different materials apart from the different
pieces of the real vehicle. I always try to use
different shades of brown for the wood in
order to get a more attractive look and steel
parts in different shades of dark grey and pure
black. But most often times, I change these
colors during the final steps when I paint
them in the final and weathered way.
10
3.9.-Oils.
The old and traditional, but highly
effective oil dot technique is of full
validity even when considered against
the most recent and sophisticated paint-
ing techniques. As shown in the picture,
several oil dots of different colors are ran-
domly applied over the previously soaked
-with White Spirit- surface. Approximate-
ly 15 minutes later, the dots are blended
over the surface using a flat brush slight-
ly damped in White Spirit. The result is
a nicely faded surface with a very rich
chromatic appearance, a subtle but effec-
tive step when youre weathering an
AFV. Oils also help increase some light
effects on the more prominent elements
of the kit with a maximum exposition of
light. In this case, I used white, Naples
Yellow, light orange and green. Also, you
can darken the hidden recesses of the
tank, where you can use natural umber,
black, blue or dark brown oils. These are
applied in the same way, in dots but this
time these are blended on the different
surfaces with an almost dry and thinner
paint brush.
3.10.-Acrylic vertical weathering.
For this task, I used acrylic paints because I do not want to spoil the pre-
vious work with oils. I always use a range of colors from buff to a nearly
black brown shade. I strongly dilute this paint in water until I just have dirty
water.Then, with a very fine brush, I select one color and after dampening
the brush, I nearly completely dry the brush on a piece of tissue paper. Near-
ly dry, with several passes of the brush, I start painting the vertical lines that
represent the typical washed out dirt over the vertical and inclined sur-
faces.When using this technique it is very important to draw the lines little
by little as the best result is achieved when the dirt line is not solid but some
kind of a transparency over the surface. The effect becomes more realistic if
you use several brownish shades going from buff to dark brown as explained
before. You can also use this technique with rust colors to simulate the
drained rust.
11
3.11.-Painting the lower hull. Mud and dirt.
Now, its time for the lower hull and tracks.
There are many products for creating nice looking
mud on our AFV: Tamiyas texture paint and Mud
in a Pot from Reality in Scale. For my taste,
Tamiyas texture paint is more suitable for 1/35 kits,
where it is the best available option. But in 1/48, the
finesse of the Reality in Scales product is unbeat-
able. I apply this product on the lower part of the kit
with the help of a brush, trying not to get a homo-
geneous look, concentrating mud more on the rear
area of the hull. Do not be afraid, this product will
not peel off from your kit! And as it is an acrylic
product, you can use your oils or other weathering
products without any risks.Once applied, I airbrush
completely the lower part of the kit with Tamiyas
XF-72, a nice alternative to the typical Tamiya XF-52
Flat Earth. Adding some buff and black to this base
color, I create different shades of mud.Then, once
dry, I apply oil colors to get a more in depth mud
effect using black, natural umber and dark brown. I
always relate in my mind the exhaust pipes with the
lower hull, so I always paint them in this step. First,
I add some chipping here and there with the help of
a sponge and finally, with oils, I blend it obtaining
the final appearance of these items in particular.
With black pigment, I create the typical smoke
effect.For the tracks, I tried AKs Metal Burnishing
product with a nice result. Friul tracks get an attrac-
tive look with this product, but not enough for a
final weathering result. For this task, I added some
pigments, also from AK (dark earth, European Earth
and Nord Africa dust) to create the final earthy look
of the tracks. I fix these with turpentine and make a
wash using natural umber oil for additional deep-
ness. And just by using sandpaper, I get the typical
bare metal effect on the tracks, a great advantage of
Friuls tracks!
12
3.12.-Final weathering effects.
For the final dust effects, I used AKs
products. First, a general wash using their
Africa Dust effects wash. I do not apply this
wash in a general or homogeneous way all
over the kit. I just apply it in the more attrac-
tive (and logical) places, mostly on the hori-
zontal surfaces.Once dry, I removed the
excess product using AKs Odorless Thinner
and using OIF&OEFs washes, I slightly
change in a random way the color of dust to
create more deepth in some places.I also
made some splashes using these products on
the wheels and the exposed plates of the
vehicle. A controlled splash effect is one of
the more realistic effects we can add to our
kits. Just on the horizontal plates and fend-
ers, I added some pigments to create texture
and additional dirt. Do not forget to fix the
pigment using turpentine or any specifically
designed product for that task.During this
step, I painted again the accessories,
not forgetting to weather
them like the rest of
the vehicle.For the
bare metal effects,
my favorite HB pen,
taken directly from my daughters case was
used.And finally, natural plants and earth
were added in debris like manner on some
parts of the AFV. I do not do this very fre-
quently but I must confess that I love the
results!
13
14
50.KFI. 84
F90|NAN0
50.KFI. 84
F90|NAN0
15
This German AFV hunter has always been one of my weaknesses.
Ive always been fascinated by how massive it was and how it
made its debut at such an early stage when the great felines of
the end of the war hadnt made theirs yet.
By: Mario Gabs Ruiz Pictures: Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Dragon Models 1/35
16
I had been keen to make this kit for a
while, because as I said earlier this is
one of my favorite AFVs. If my memo-
ry serves me correctly, this is the third
Ferdinand I make. The first one I did
was the old Italeri reference which as
you all know is not actually a Ferdinand
but an Elephant and I didnt even paint
it; it was left in the green plastic hue
that those Italeri kits had back in the
day. My second try was also with the
Italeri kit, but this one was painted and
I tried to copy an Elephant which came
out in a publication which some of you
might still remember: the Cuadernos
de Modelismo aplicados. In one of
these there was a diorama set in the
Battle for Kursk. In it we could see
some German grenadiers trying to take
a line of Soviet trenches, while hidden
behind the considerable bulk of this
vehicle. You can imagine the disastrous
results I obtained and how little did my
vehicle resemble the one from the dio-
rama; the name of the vehicle was the
only thing that matched
So when Dragon released this kit for
the first time in 2001 I was anxious to
acquire it, but it was actually my father
who gave it to me as a present knowing
how fond I was of this kit and what
happened duri ng the twel ve years
which have gone by? Well, I simply
kept the kit on a closet until I finally
dared to build it. I guess that most hob-
byists have a similar story to tell with a
given kit.
So I can only say that this is the first
Ferdinand kit by Dragon and it does not
have any PE sheets, the gun isnt made
out of turned aluminum, it does not
have any Magic Track tracks or any
extra detailing kit. As far as I know,
Dragon has manufactured two later ver-
sions with improved parts and a whole
bunch of extra pieces including one
with specific pieces for the Battle for
Kursk.
Before we begin with the assembly
chores I leave some space for a histori-
cal introduction of this vehicle by my
fellow association member and friend
M Salcedo Oliver.
This heavy and enormous German
AFV hunter (65-70 tons) owes its exis-
HISTORICAL
INTRODUCTION
17
tence to the request for a heavi l y
armored assault gun which eventually
received a different name. The need to
assemble powerful weapons to fight
the increasing number of well protected
Soviet AFVs, facilitated the choice for
an 8.8cm KwK 43/2L/71 gun. Through-
out 1942 evaluations for choosing the
hull with the right configuration to bear
this gun or other guns of a different cal-
iber took place.
The hull was taken from the discard-
ed VK4501 (P), a competing project
won by the Henschel Company which
became known as the Tiger and then
simply as Tiger I.
For more information download pdf:
www.euromodelismo.com
As Ive mentioned earlier in the
introduction, this is Dragon Kits first
Ferdinand, so were going to need a few
extras in order to give it an optimal lev-
el of detail; however if anybody wants
to do this kit right out the box, they
would also have a good kit in their
hands. The kit was improved with A
Voyager PE set, a turned aluminum gun
made by the same br and and a
Friulmodel set of tracks.
The kits assembly is no harder than
replacing the styrene pieces for the PE
ones, paying special attention to the
fenders which are made out of several PE
pieces and need careful assembly. PE
pieces allow us to make a number of dif-
ferent effects such as bumps and hits, so
I decided to leave the main part of a lat-
eral fender out simulating its loss in the
battlefield. The remaining PE pieces are
used for improving the tool fastenings,
the headlight supports and the principal
support for the gun. Other than this and
after having examined a number of peri-
od pictures Ive observed that crews
removed the tool box from its original
location and relocated it on the rear of
the vehicle. The Voyager set contains a
fully detailed toolbox, so I get rid of the
one which comes with the kit and place
the Voyager one on the rear.
Now I just have to put the impres-
sive Voyagers turned aluminum gun in
place with the wonderful resin mantlet
which has much better detail than the
one in the kits box. Now the kit is
ready for painting.
ASSEMBLY
Before I finished the assembly stage I
was already taking a look at the differ-
ent color profiles and pictures of this
vehicle and wondering what kind of
camouflage pattern I wanted to repro-
duce. The first idea I had was to apply
the typical dark yellow German camou-
flage with the small green threads
which were very common during the
battle for Kursk, but along came my
friend Luis Fuster with a handful of
Ferdinand pictures from the 653
heavy AFV hunters battalion and I saw
one with a green spotted camouflage
pattern which immediately caught my
attention and made up my mind to
reproduce.
Once the vehicle was finished and
after having primed its surface with
Citadels white priming paint I began
working and testing the new zenithal
light source technique, so I painted the
dark yellow color with Tamiya acrylics
doing a ver y smooth zenithal light
source on the prominent areas of the
kit which later on have so much eye
appeal. I applied much lighter shades in
the upper areas of the vehicle and dark-
er ones on the lower areas. I also light-
ed up some areas with this lighter base
color mixture such as the upper part of
the frontal armoring, the upper part of
the casemate and the upper part of the
fenders. I was truly satisfied with the
results obtained and a kit with such
large vertical surfaces truly asks for it.
When executing the green camou-
flage spots I first drew the contour of
each spot and then filled it up with
paint. This is a pretty tough job and
you need lots of patience. I spent a
total of six hours doing it, so patience
at least for me- was the thing to have
along with an airbrush kit in perfect
working order, heavily diluted paint to
work with and an air pressure of about
0.5 bars to apply it. I tried to apply a lit-
tle of this zenithal light source treat-
ment to the camouflage spots, but I
was not too convinced with the results
obtained so I applied a modest high-
light in the center of the spots, leaving
these other wi se pretty much
untouched. On my next project I would
truly like to work with that on the cam-
ouflage spots.
Once the kit has been fully painted
with its base color, I seal its surface
with gloss varnish in order to get a
satin finish which will be very helpful
later on during the application of the
weathering processes. Varnish is also
an excellent base for integrating decals
perfectly.
Now the kit is ready for the weather-
ing or dirtying process; in a vehicle
as big as this one with such large verti-
PAINTING
cal surfaces, you should carefully plan
your work ahead and work on small
areas of the kit at a time. By doing this
we avoid getting tired or skipping some
processes.
I aged the kit by using a mixed tech-
nique; in addition to the typical melt-
ing of oil paints on the vertical sur-
faces I empl oyed MIG Ji menezs
Streaking technique, which consists
on melting paint vertically on all the
vertical planks combining this with a
personal touch involving a number of
oil paint gradations that gave me an
altogether pretty good time. I insisted
however on working on a few small
areas at any given time to avoid getting
saturated with the work which would
otherwise be pretty heavy.
Once I was done with this, I did
some general detail profiling on the kit
using dark colored enamels. Then I
worked on the paint chips and divided
these in two: The darker and deeper
ones made with Panzer Aces 302, and
the lighter and superficial ones which
have a hue similar to the base color.
The kit after all the treatments looked
like it had a number of campaign hours
behind it, so now it was time to seal
this with Marabu matt enamel Varnish,
leaving the vehicle ready for the colored
pigments which followed.
Overall dirt includes both MIG Pro-
ductions and AK Interactive color pig-
ments, especially present on the lower
side of the fenders creating dry mud
clusters consistent with the time of the
year when the battle for Kursk took
place.
Using the same colors employed to
apply mud on the lower areas I recreat-
ed mud on the tracks, which were pre-
viously given a rusty appearance with
AK Interactives specific product for
recreating rust on metal surfaces. Then
I did several Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylic
washes and then I applied dirt with the
color pigments. Once weve done all
this, the kit is nearly finished; I only
have some work left on details which
bring the kit to life such as dampness,
oil and fuel stains, painting the tools
and doing some details to add some
character to provide a personal touch
such as the sign post written in Cyrillic
lettering.
On the char t with the materials
employed for this kit I list all the colors
employed and the color references as
used in every step of the way.
In order to get a livelier diorama I
always like to include a figure or two;
here Ive used an Alpine miniatures ref-
erence and a Dragon Models reference.
The Dragon figure was improved with a
Hornet head and a number of PE pieces
to add further detail to the figure. Luis
Solanas painted both figures.
20
21
23
Base paint and camouflage
Tamiya Color
- XF60 Dark yellow
- XF2 Flat white
- X-22 Clear
Gunze Sangyo
- H-303 Green FS34102
Filters
MiG Productions
- P241 Brown for Panzer Yellow
- P245 Brown for Dark Green
Oil paint gradations
MiG Productions
- Abt 035 Buff
- Abt 155 German Three Tone
Fading
- Abt 001 White
- Abt 140 Basic Flesh Tone
- Abt 092 German Ochre
- Abt 040 Faded Green
- Abt 050 Olive Green
- Abt 090 Industrial Earth
- Abt 080 Wash Brown
- Abt 070 Dark Rust
Streaking
AK Interactive
- AK 012 Streaking Grime
- AK 024 Dark Streaking Grime
- AK 080 Summer Kursk Earth
- AK 013 Rust Streaks
- AK 016 Fresh Mud
- AK 074 Rainmarks for NATO Tanks
- AK 046 Wash for Light Dust
Pigments (dirt)
AK Interactive
- AK 081 Dark Earth
MiG Productions
- P415 Light European Dark
- P027 Light Dust
- P414 Track Brown
- P232 Dry Mud
- P048 Faded Green
- P030 Beach Sand
Paint chips, scratches and dirt stains
Vallejo Panzer Aces Acrylics
- 302 Dark rust
- 313 stencil
- 304 Track primer
- 314 Canvas
- 315 light mud
- 305 Light rubber
AK Interactive
- AK 711 Chipping Color
Damp spots and fuel stains
- 80 Bitume (Titn)
- AK 025 Fuel Stains (AK Interactive)
- Oil and Grease Stain Mixture (MiG Productions)
COLOR CHART
24
P
a
n
z
e
r
j

g
e
r

T
i
g
e
r
(
P
)

F
e
r
d
i
n
a
n
d
(
S
d
.
K
f
z
.

1
8
4
)
,

s
.
P
z
.
J
g
.
A
b
t
.

6
5
4
,
K
u
r
s
k

(
U
R
S
S
)
,
j
u
l
i
o

d
e

1
9
4
3
.

C
o
l
o
r
e
s
:
D
u
n
k
e
l
g
e
l
b

y
O
l
i
v
g
r

n
P
a
n
z
e
r
j

g
e
r

T
i
g
e
r
(
P
)

F
e
r
d
i
n
a
n
d
(
S
d
.
K
f
z
.

1
8
4
)
,

s
.
P
z
.
J
g
.
A
b
t
.

6
5
4
,

1

B
a
t
a
l
l

n
,

3

C
o
m
p
a

a
,

K
u
r
s
k
1
9
4
3
.
C
o
l
o
r
e
s
:
D
u
n
k
e
l
g
e
l
b
,
O
l
i
v
g
r

n

y
R
o
t
b
r
a
u
n
25
P
a
n
z
e
r
j

g
e
r

T
i
g
e
r
(
P
)

F
e
r
d
i
n
a
n
d
(
S
d
.
K
f
z
.

1
8
4
)
,

I
I
/
s
.
P
z
.
J
g
.
R
g
t
.

6
5
6
,
K
u
r
s
k

(
U
R
S
S
)
,
j
u
l
i
o

d
e

1
9
4
3
.
C
o
l
o
r
e
s
:
D
u
n
k
e
l
g
e
l
b

y
O
l
i
v
g
r

n
P
a
n
z
e
r
j

g
e
r

T
i
g
e
r
(
P
)

F
e
r
d
i
n
a
d
(
S
d
.
K
f
z
.

1
8
4
)
,

s
.
P
z
.
J
g
.
A
b
t
.

2
3
1
4

B
a
t
a
l
l

n
,

2

C
o
m
p
a

a
,

K
u
r
k
s
1
9
4
3
.
C
o
l
o
r
e
s
:
D
u
n
k
e
l
g
e
l
b
,
O
l
i
v
g
r

n

y
R
o
t
b
r
a
u
n
26
$108N6l$0801l
27
I got idea for this
project when I got copy
of Panzer wrecks # 14 in
my hands. There was a
great set of pictures of
very rare StuG III G.
After looking and
learning those six
pictures, I found that
this will be my next
project. In pictures, you
can see very odd
features rarely seen in
StuGs.
By: Jari Hemil
pictures of the author
CMK-Dragon 1/35
The vehicle seems to be pieced toget-
her from parts collected from different
vehicles and topped up with field-made
parts. The hull seems to be old regular
Panzer III M tank hull with brake cooling
openings and hatches without hinges in
upper front plates of hull. The rear deck
with towing cable clamps, driving light
on left fender, tool box on right fender
and spare wheel brackets bolted on rear
part of fenders are typical Pz III M featu-
res. The casemate seems to be regular
StuG item, the main gun is late model
with Saukopf mantle but the roof is
weird. For some reason, the comman-
ders cupola has been removed and
replaced with split hatch of loaders. To
beef-up vehicles protection, armor plates
are welded in front of vehicle, in loaders
18l 0l0 6l8N8 Fl lll
18k 008l81l0 10 l1lN8
$106 lll 6
lll 6 8f88l0
BACK-ROUND
28
front plate and finally driver got an armo-
red visor. There are also concrete blocks
on both upper front corners of casemate
to give extra protection, as well as lot of
spare track shoes for same purpose. Few
details such rear deck rack and gun sup-
port in front plate are typical late model
features of StuG III G. The same cant be
said of field applied Schrtzens with
pivoting attachment. There are only 3 or
4 Schrtzen plates on left side of vehicle,
on right side there are only those attach-
ment points left.
This very interesting vehicle was com-
pleted with a very fashinating three tone
camourflage. On schrtzen plates there
is a nice cross pattern, the rest of vehicle
seems to painted over hastingly. All this
offered great subject for a great model,
but also defenately required terrain base
for model.
Interior
was needed. For engine bay, I bought
a new CMKs set for Dragon models.
Construction was easy even for me, who
is not so familiar with resin. Nice sharp
castings but there were also some defects
in CMK set. Those two longitudial fra-
mes under engine need to be tuned, new
holes drilled, to allow torsion bars go
CONSTRUCTION
29
through them. Those holes were totally
wrong places, but job was easily done.
Maybe bigger issue is that there are not
any detailing in batteries/ battery tray. It
looks like there is a sheet metal lid over
battery box but in reality batteries are
visible. Batteries are marked in instruc-
tions but part itself is plain without any
detailsOld Aires drivers area kit was a
nice one, just enough details for removed
brake inspection hatches. Set was desig-
ned for Tamiya kit so there was some
adjustments I had to do before fighting
compartment interior was possible to set
on place. I found it essential to plan and
fit everything very carefully to ease inte-
rior painting and later attaching lower
hull to upper one. For example the radia-
tors were clued to engine deck to make
sure that rear deck can be put in place
after painting. Anyway, I found it busy
enough with these modifications.
Exterior
I took some parts from DMLs Pz III M
kit. Hull front top-plate A22 was extra
part so I took it, as well as those plastic
tow-cable fasteners on rear-deck. Turned
aluminum gun-tube with DML Saukopf
mantle is from RB Models and Friulmodel
trcks completed construction. I shorte-
ned two shock absorbers to get axles in
upper positions and then glued all four
on their places. I cut all location pins
from swing axles to let them turn freely
30
to ease installation on ground base.
Mainly the construction was done by
following instructions. The fenders were
lightly modified by thinning them by
grinding then underside, adding some
needed details and making some cuttings
on them.
Concrete blocks were made of Magig
Sculp in two layers. At first I made rough
contour of blocks, let them dry overnight
and continued next day with final surface
of appr. 2mm thick. I kept surfaces quite
smooth as seen in reference pictures.
I cut Schrtzens from 0,25mm plastic
sheet, drilled two attachment holes in
center line and finally cut edges of in jig I
made beforehand. Pivot axles were made
of 0,8mm copper wire, plastic discs and
rough putty weldings. In this particular
vehicle, plates seems to be attached with
washers and nuts, maybe welded in pla-
ce. In other vehicles there have been
washers and locking pin.
Spare track racks on casemate sides
were made of styrene strips. Some of the
extra tracks were attached to vehicle by
using welded and then bent track pins.
This was made by 0,6mm soldering wire,
superglued on place and then painted
rusty brown.
I needed a late model roof with loa-
ders hatch opening to sides but without
pilzens. I had only one DML later StuG
roof available so I decided to reproduce
new one from plastic sheet. It was quite
easy task, some careful measurements
and then cutting and gluing parts toget-
her one by one. After assembly, weld
seams were made of Magic Sculp. Gun-
ner sight device cover plate is from spare
Aber PE-set.
I cut front part of DMLs top-plate
away and replaced it with cutted front
part of PanzerArts resin-part. Extra armor
plates were made of plastic sheet and fit-
ted around air intakes. Here I had to use
some Magig Sculp to make tight fitting.
The gun support was done from plastic
struts and rods with Punch-And-Die set
bolt-head.
31
The RAL 8012 was a base color for
my StuG interior. Everything was airbrus-
hed with red primer, mixture of reddish
Tamiya paints, then masked off and figh-
ting compartment got its semi-gloss
Elfenbein color. All sub-assemblies were
painted separately and then assembled.
All details were painted with paintbrush
and different Vallejo colors.
After painting completed, it was time
for washes. I made some dir ty grey
brown general washes mixed from oil
colors and then continued with darker
pin-washes. After some touch-up with
thinner, I applied dust pigments on floor
plates, especially to corners where dust
normally accumulates. When dusting
was ready, I add some grease, oil and
fuel marks randomly areas where nee-
ded. Braking system also got some metal
pigment treatment in this step.
The exterior painting started by air-
brushing Panzer grey on parts taken
from old Panzer III tank. The casemate
got darker, mid-war shade of Dunkelgelb,
as well as new parts like fenders were
painted with primer red.
Details were picked up with paint-
brush. I searched color of concrete for a
while in real samples and decided to use
Deck tan avoiding bluish Blue Tack -
effect as seen sometimes when creating
concrete in models. Some field applied
steel plates got dark brown base color in
this step.
PAINT-WORK
32
After these detail paintings were
made, model was airbrushed with seve-
ral thin layers of hairspray. Work conti-
nued with general layer of faded older
Dunkel gelb. After drying for a while, I
started to make chipping with warm tap
water and set of stiff brushes and pair of
tweeters. I removed lot of paint in lower
hull areas to present old, maybe at field
applied, Dunkel gelb paintwork made
over dusty surfaces where paint wont
stick perfectly. After chipping was done,
I sealed everything with few thin layers
of semi-gloss varnish.
Upper parts of vehicle were again air-
brushed with few thin coats of hair
spray. After drying, surfaces got very
pale late-war version of Dunkel gelb.
33
Upper structure was installed on top of
lower hull for camouflage painting. The
green and red brown camo colors cove-
red quite large areas but were airbrushed
quite thinly. The Schrtzen plates got
quite funny cross pattern made with
both colors. Plates were attached on
wooden bl ock wi th Bl uTack to get
correct, continuing pattern but also to
make small overspray effect where plates
are overlapping. The gun tube was pain-
ted in totally different camo than rest of
vehicle. The national insignia, and mar-
kings in generally, consisted only three
black crosses, two in front upper corners
of fighting department and one in rear
upper plate. These were painted by
paintbrush.
After paintwork was done, I applied
general wash wi th Mi g Producti on
Brown wash. Warm reddish hue turned
overall appearance of vehicle exactly I
wanted. I also used some darker pin-
washes in details to add more interest
and get details more visible.
I increased chipping efects concentra-
ting mainly on areas originally painted
with Panzer grau. Chipping continued
with light sand and finally some rusty
brown colors. As usually, this extra chip-
ping was done at first with sponge and
then continued with #000 paintbrush.
Rusty armor plates were made totally
using hair-spray technic. At first I made
very dark brown mixture of Tamiya paints
and then airbrushed it on primered surfa-
ces. I add more interest and variance to
base color with speckling technic i.e.
thinned mixture of enamel and oil-paint
was sprinkled over painted surface with
stiff paintbrush. I used both light and
dark shades, both different than base
colour. If you get too big sports you can
remove them with turpentine if needed.
After speclings were dried, I airbrushed
couple of thin layers hair-spray over it.
34
The next step was to add lighter con-
trast color layer on. I used both light grey
and blue paints to do effect. It doesnt
matter what color you use, I prefer blue
because it adds more interest and shades
to end result. Again, usin warm tap
water and stiff short bristle paint-brush,
nearly all light contrast color was washed
away. When I was satisfied, I let it dry
for a while and then sealed surface with
yes, few thin layers of acrylic varnish.
Rusty surfaces got more hues by orange
layer. After couple of hair-spray layers, I
airbrushed orange color randomly over
painted area. Some areas got thicker
35
layer, others only thin sheer layer of orange. I also used paper masks to
produce sharper rusty marks caused other plates during storage. Orange
color was again washed partly away and then sealed with varnish. I add
more tones to rusty surface, now with oils, both from tube and also dilu-
ted with thinner. I added some marks of burned paint by airbrushing
black color around welded and flame cutted areas. These seams were
also treated with yellowish rust caused by heat during welding. The final
step was to paint fresh weld seams with HU11.
The terrain base was totally new area
for me but especially this model request
it. I had resin section of cobble stone
street. I cut it in better shape and made
sides of terrain base from plastic strips
and sheet. I filled the pot with thin
layers of Styrofoam and add some wood
beams and metal rods in it. I checked
everything with model and then started
to add Das modeling material to shape
terrain. Before modelling material was
totally dry, I sprinkled some real sand,
pushed it on wet surface and sealed it
with matt scenic glue. I let it dry few
BASE
days and then glued terrain base to woo-
den base I made beforehand. In this sta-
ge, I primered both wooden and terrain
base combo with spray stuff and then
painted sides with semi-gloss black.
After masking, I first painted light grey
base col or for cobbl e stoned areas.
Ground work painting continued with
sand colors, as well as I picked up cobble
stones with different grey colors. I used
Scale Supplys pre-colored bricks. They
came in three different colors which I
mixed together to get variance in ground
work. I sprinkled bricks on needed areas
and then glued them in place with scenic
glue. The vehicle was test fitted once
again to make sure that it will fit on its
place later.
The vehicle and terrain base were
weathered simultaneously with Easy Mud
products. Lower hull and tracks were
weathered before attachment to base. I
started with light dry mud colours and
continued to darker ones. This was done
by both making thin washes and using
thicker mud to get surfaces dirty and
muddy. Washes were also used to create
moistened terrain on left side of vehicle
as seen in reference pictures. I secured
the model to the base with epoxy glue
36
37
and metal pins. Thick mixture of Polyfilla
and pigments was placed under tracks to
ensure ground contact. I faded vehicle to
the ground work wi th both Easy
Mud,bricks and straws. The next step
was tedious applying of mortar on bricks.
I made a thick mixture of plaster, pig-
ments and water, and with a small paint
brush, applied mortar on bricks, on both
sides and both ends, one by one... I also
crushed several bricks and sprinkled
them all over the base. The terrain base
and vehicle were completed with several
pigments and help of some oil and grea-
se stains. The model was finally comple-
ted!
38

The positive results
obtained by the
Sturmgeschutz III, led to
the Stug IV which was
in itself an improvement
over the previous
vehicle because of its
larger combat chamber
and therefore its added
capacity for storing
ammunition and more
room for its crews.
By: Alejandro Quintana
pictures by Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Tamiya 1/35
42
ASSEMBLY
1. First stage of the zimmerit process; drawing
vertical lines with a separation of 3mm between
each line.
02. Using the welding tool we do the pocks
carefully following the pencil lines.
3. We cover the side of the vehicle and then we
use on the zimmerit a brush soaked on styrene
liquid glue.
4. We can correct a poorly made line with putty
and work on it again with the welding tool.
5. The real zimmerit texture was pretty random
and varied a lot between all the different units.
This Tamiya kit was manufactured in 1976, and
does have all of the periods features. Youll wonder
why Ive built such an old kit, and the truth is that
this kit had been lying around on a shelf for quite
some time and I was not planning on throwing it
away. If anybody wants to build the StuG IV, I would
clearly recommend the much newer Dragon referen-
ce which is by far a much better kit.
In order to improve this kit I had to use many sets
and accessories, but I would have pretty much done
the same if I had chosen to build the Dragon kit.
The tracks should be replaced because those inclu-
ded in the kit are quite awful. It is also pretty much
mandatory to change the lateral armored planks with
either P.E. pieces or thin styrene sheet. Details such
as the tools, all the other small odds and ends, the
gun, the canvas, the frontal planks will always help
you add a personal touch to your kit.
The first thing you should do to these old Tamiya
kits is to cover up the holes on the frame originally
intended for inserting a small motor. Plasticard,
putty and sandpaper suffice to get the frame ready.
Another period flaw is the large gap left (large
enough to let you see the inside) once you assemble
the superstructure and the frame together. This gap
however is pretty much concealed by the tracks and
the lateral planks, but I chose to do some extra
handiwork and covered it with some Plasticard and
putty.
I began building the vehicle by doing the zimme-
rit texture. For those of you which have never
attempted to recreate it there is abundant literature
on the subject and some practical reviews on how to
do it in both Euromodelismo magazine, and Panzer
Aces. Zimmerit was a paste applied on many Ger-
man AFVs, giving it its special texture with different
tools. This paste was applied with a spiked roll in
the factories, but in the battlefields the soldiers did
what they could with what they had. I had to choo-
ZIMMERIT
1
2
3
4
5
43
se first the materials to recreate it with;
and as far as I know I had three choices:
50% mix putty, P.E. pieces, and using a
welding tool. As far as I was concerned I
already had more than enough P.E parts
on my kit so I went for the welding tool
option to tackle the work ahead. The
first step is to measure the pock marks
on the zimmerit paste. I had a three
millimeter measurement to bear in mind.
With a small ruler and a pencil we trace
the vertical lines on all the areas were
going to work on. We should skip the
areas where other pieces will be stuck
later, because if we dont, we may have
some fastening problems later. There is
for example on the left side of the tracks
a couple of fuel intakes not featured in
this kit which in this case were taken
from a Panzer IV by Dragon to illustrate
this point. The area where these pieces
go should not get the zimmerit texture in
Two component Tamiya putty and a special metal zimmerit-specific Tamiya
knife is used here for the job.
We spread the mixture on the metallic fender. With the 0.7 knife we do the grooves conveying the print
left by the real life rods
The separation line is about 3mm wide. The 0.7mm knife has an end which can be used for doing
the zimmerit strips one by one.
order to be able to glue them properly in
place.
Once weve prepared it all we take the
welding tool and begin to do the pock
marks on the vehicle. These are done
from right to left, exactly the opposite
direction used when writing in English.
These are done up and then down tilting
the knife about 45 degrees. It isnt neces-
sary to do a perfectly accurate job. A
perfectly accurate job can be considered
in fact unrealistic; after having closely
examined many pictures of vehicles with
zimmerit I can assure you that not two
vehicles look alike and all are far from
being perfect. So if you get some croo-
ked lines that would actually be OK. It is
however always recommendable to run
some tests on any old kit you may have
around before you begi n wi th your
current kit. All this is in fact much sim-
pler than it actually seems.
I began with the track area, because if
any mistakes are made here it is always
easier to conceal it with either mud,
snow or anything you may come up
with. The job seemed easy enough all
right, the first columns looked great and
my confidence grew too much and then
I blundered badly later on during the
process. About halfway down the vehi-
cle I was doing very sloppy work. Some
pock marks were quite crooked, others
not so much basically a disaster. Not
satisfied with this I remembered that
later on you should put some styrene
glue after the welding work to soften and
get rid of some plastic hairs created
during the process. Thats how I took
the glue and spread it, covering all the
zimmerit areas. On those areas where
the job was better done and glue was
used sparsely, the results were fantastic,
but on the areas where the marks were
poorly made I used greater amounts of
glue bathing these surfaces completely,
erasing the texture and melting the
plastic surface away, leaving an a pretty
sorry kit to see. Desperate, I tried to
cover up the worst parts with Tamiyas
putty thinned down on acetone impro-
ving somewhat the disastrous results,
because it covered up some defects and
later on the welding tool could also be
used on this putty and some mistakes
could be corrected with this procedure.
I began to fear that the whole zimme-
rit thing was going to get the best of me.
However I was not going to surrender
44
In order to
fasten the tools
we have to use
the PE pieces
manufactured by
both Eduard and
Aber, choosing
the ones better
adapted for each
tool. Some
pieces like the
cranks have
been made out
of copper wire.
Metal fender
manufactured by
Eduard which
fits moderately
well.
specially considering the hefty sum spent
on accessories and other sets bought to
improve the veteran Tamiya reference.
With this spirit I ran and got myself
another Tamiya StuG (thank goodness
these are cheap). The way I see it I was
actually thankful for not having ruined a
Dragon reference and having a chance to
get a fresh start on a brand new Tami-
ya StuG.
Now I took the job seriously from the
first line to the last one. It is actually easy
to do it well, but you should not be
caught with your guard down and rush
the work no matter how easy it may
seem. Get the welding tool warm enough
from the start and test it on another pie-
ce of plastic before you start a fresh line.
I think that when I first screwed up,
the welding tool was not warm enough
and I was doing a good job in the mean-
time. The machine was warming up pro-
gressively but I was doing the same pock
marks but the knife penetrated further
into the plastic and that spelled disaster.
The second time around the whole
thing went much better and I didnt have
any major issues. In spite of the mistakes
and even after having bought a second
kit, the results obtained were great in my
opinion. With a very light layer of styre-
ne glue I could finally admit to be plea-
sed with the results and the welding
tool. I still had to do the zimmerit on the
fenders. Tamiyas two component polyes-
ter putty and the PE pieces designed by
this brand to recreate the texture had to
do the job there. The fenders are small
and flat, so all this worked out fine. Whi-
le doing this I found out that the specific
PE set was much too specific and saw
that the fenders did not fit. The Eduard
set isnt that specific and worked much
better. I actually used the Aber and
Eduard PE pieces whenever either fitted
best.
A good example is the wrench set.
The Aber one is too Dragon specific and
the Eduard one works only for Tamiya.
Between the Aber and the Eduard sets I
could put all the details on the kit. The
PE work to be done actually doubled
because of this situation.
45
TOOLS
The Bosch headlight is a better quality
metal piece. The one employed here is
manufactured by M4 Model.
Friulmodel track links with a wire
fastening.
The Aber hinges and periscopes are
quite necessary in order to improve
the commanders cupola.
1The MG-34 will look far better if we
replace the gun for a turned
aluminum piece by Aber. The
armoring for it is the Eduard make.
Another essential detail:
The box containing the
spare Aber wheels
faithfully reproduced by
this brand.
Once the kit was almost assembled
and the details had been taken care of I
assembled the Friulmodel tracks which
are in fact wonderful to work with.
When I measured these I encountered
yet another problem: The tractor wheels
and the tracks did not fit together well. I
sanded the wheels to find out if this wor-
ked, but I was not convinced with the
results. I solved this issue by replacing
the Tamiya wheels for Panzer IV wheels
taken from a Dragon reference and it
worked perfectly.
The real life StuG IV had a couple of
factory glitches. One of these glitches
was that water could get in the space
between the casemate and the guns
mantlet whenever it rained. Crews placed
a piece of canvas in this space to fix this,
and I recreated this with two component
blue and yellow Kenadite putty. The
good thing about this putty is that once
it settles it still maintains its elasticity
and can be well adapted to complex are-
as pretty much as is needed right here.
The piece of canvas was maintained in
place with hooks and a fastener made
out of 0.3mm copper wire.
The other factory glitch was more of a
design error. This vehicle was basically a
StuG III casemate assembled on the fra-
me of a Panzer IV. In order to fit both
together, the drivers post was moved for-
ward exposing him way too much. The
engineers came up with a rather inge-
nious solution. Some cement blocks
were placed on the frontal area of the
46
TRACKS MANTLET CANVAS
ADDITIONAL
ARMORING
The appearance of this StuG IV is remarkable because of the
detail brought by the PE pieces, the realistic appearance of both
the tracks and the gun, the turned metal machine gun with its
metallic armoring, all helping round up this realistic effect.
- Kit:
Sturmgeschtz IV de Tamitya ref 35087
- P.E. sets:
Aber ref. 35044
Eduard ref. 35357
Schurzen Eduard ref. 35361
Schurzen Lionroar ref. 35051
- Aluminum gun:
7.5cm Stuk 40 L/48, Jb Model ref. 35B05
- Panzer Tracks:
PazerIII/IV Ostketten, Friulmodel ref. ATL-83
- Tow cable grips:
M4 Models, ref. 35013
- Tow cables:
M4 Models, ref. 35001
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
AFV. The kit does in fact come with the-
se pieces for assembly. Still, crews, much
wiser than the engineers themselves
decided to put on the vehicle sloped
planks in order to protect better these
vulnerable areas from shells. Crews also
adhered whatever they could find of use
in the battlefield. The plank on the left
side had hinges in order to lift it and gain
access to the transmission. These are
made out of Plasticard sheet with dents
along its edges done with a knife in order
to convey the cut made with the welding
iron. The hinges are two sections of a
hypodermic syringe fitted one inside the
other with a piece of copper wire inside.
The periscopes in this area are also newly
made out of Plasticard and PE pieces and
the handle is a piece of copper wire.
At this point I went and worked on the
lateral armored planks or Schrtzen. The
ones that come with the kit are pretty
thick so I went for the PE pieces. Both the
Eduard and Lionroar sets can be used for
this purpose. The hard thing here is to
align these correctly. These were long suf-
fering planks and were removed and reas-
sembled quite often by all the different
crews. In fact, whenever the AFV had
been out for a few months, these were
often displaced bent and disarranged. Do
not be discouraged if a given plank is
slightly disarranged, because it was
actually difficult to see a vehicle in service
with every plank intact and in perfect
arrangement. In fact, period pictures show
us vehicles with a few missing planks and
sometimes all of them were. Now we
check the vehicle making sure that no PE
pieces have been harmed or have been
accidentally removed and were pretty
much done with the assembly chores.
47
SCHURTZEN
Assembly pictures of Aber and Eduard PE pieces, the JB Models gun, Friulmodel spare track links and additional armoring
made out of Plasticard sheet with hinges. Here we can also see the canvas covering the mantlets base made out of Duro.
Copper wire in different widths is employed for making handles, fastenings, springs, etc.
AMBRUSS CAMOUFLAGE SCHEME
AFV hunters of the period were pain-
ted with the Ambruss ambush- pat-
tern which was generally quite dark in
order to conceal the vehicle with the
shadows of the forests. Sometimes spe-
cial small circular patterns were emplo-
yed.
We begin by applying the Tamiya
acrylic base coat. First well apply an
overall layer of XF-59 to cover up the
entire vehicle. Then this is lightened by
adding some XF-2 and about a drop of
XF-57 to the initial color reference. The
green camouflage pattern is made with
XF-13 J.A. Green. Brown is made with
XF-10. Green is applied in a much more
intense hue, and brown is a bit more dif-
fuse.
We finish the job by applying a dilu-
ted and lightened coat of our base color
with smooth gradations intensifying the
highlights on the rounded areas.
48
There are four known variants of the RAL 7028 dark yellow color. In order to
obtain one a little removed from the usual fare we use Tamiyas XF-59 lighted
up with white and adding some Buff X-57. With this treatment we will obtain
one of the lesser known variants of this color, and bearing in mind that the
remaining camouflage colors cover up about 70% of the vehicle we dont need
to work on the color modulation. The Olivgrn RAL 6003 green is done with
Tamiyas XF-13 J.A. Green, and the brick red Rotbraun RAL 8012 is done with
the brands XF-10 Flat Brown. As we can see on the research pictures, the red
and green spots cover about 70% of the vehicle and are applied trying to
convey the lights and shades of the central European forests.
The Schurtzen get the same colors in
a very diffuse way and in some
instances we will leave the base color
only.
Pigments used in the final stages will help you recreate
the textures of dirt mud and sand which are quite
necessary whenever we recreate an armored vehicle.
The product range for the finishing touches is indeed wide,
and whenever employed in an orderly and logical fashion
the results obtained can be pretty convincing.
Small blots of oil paint colors are left on a piece of cardboard
in order for it to absorb some of the oil and obtain a less
glossy effect. A wide range of colors is used here in order to
obtain a greater richness and a realistic effect.
PAINTING
SCHURTZEN
The exterior side of the Schurtzen is
obviously painted with the same three
colors used for the outside leaving on
some instances some planks with two
colors and even just one color the
dark yellow base coat-.
The overall oil paint treatment is
done in a similar way throughout the
vehicle. Towards the end of the pain-
ting process we do a few well faded
smooth over tones by ai rbrushi ng
Model Airs 035 and some splashes
with 983 and 984 (both Model Color
references).
INSIDE OF THE SCHURTZEN
You dont really need to work a lot
here. The inner side of the Schrtzen is
usually out of sight, but in this case we
will paint these, bearing in mind the
mud splash effects created by the
movement of the tracks on these. The
best way to apply paint here in a direct
way is to use a brush soaked with
paint and blow it with an airbrush kit.
Two brown acrylic hues are used here
983 and 984 both Model Color referen-
ces. In order to mark the areas that
need stai ni ng we l l prepare some
moveable masking.
TOOLS
Then well paint the tools with Pan-
zer Aces references 310, 311, 312, 301,
302 and Model Airs 71072 and 057.
RUST STREAKS AND RUSTY AREAS
Now we take to the brushes and
apply an overall wash with AKs 012
throughout the vehicle insisting on the
Zimmerit covered areas. On the upper
areas without it and the gun I use oil
paint Raw Sienna and a little Yellow
Ochre both Titan references. I also
used some German Grey Lights (ref
503) by Abteilung. The first rust effects
and streaks on the hinges, joints and
so forth are made. We use some Burnt
Sienna for it and we accentuate it with
AKs 013.
49
In order to recreate the splashes on the inner side of the Schurtzen we prepare
some masking with a piece of cardboard with irregularly cut edges and we
splash paint with the air jet of an airbrush kit on a paintbrush loaded with the
chosen color.
We do this again on the remaining Schurtzen (These have previously been
taped together) with the area which we want splashed exposed matching both
the tracks and the wheels.
Vallejo acrylics 983 and 984 are used here halfway diluted.
The splashes are smoothened with a lighter hue, obtained by adding some
white paint to the 983.
PINTURA DE
FALDONES
50
PROFILING
Now we do some profiling throug-
hout the vehicle with Titans PARDO
TITAN, and we do a wash on the zim-
merit areas with a mixture of Humbrol
enamels H33 and H-98. Once weve let it
all dry up for 48 hours we begin with the
dry brush work. On the green surface I
used Molaks 1102 Army Green. For the
brown surface I employed Humbrols H-
118 Matt US Tan, and finally on the
yellow surface I used Molaks 171 Oak
mixed with Humbrols white enamel to
lighten it up but only on the zimmerit
areas.
SPARE TRACKS
For the spare tracks and the additional
armored planks I wanted to apply a
recent rust layer in order to convey the
effect that both had been put in place
recently. I did this with slightly orangey
color hues, seeking contrast with the rest
of the vehicle. The colors employed were
Panzer Aces 301, 302, 303, 304 and
Model Airs 057.
TRACKS
I begin by applying Panzer Aces 304,
several Vallejo brown shades mixed ran-
domly, seeking the widest range possi-
ble. The shades used are 312, 984 and
Panzer Aces Light Rust to lighten up
things and 871 as well. I work on one
track link at a time trying to mix up paint
and avoid using the same mixtures not
doing two links alike. Then we do some
pretty diffuse stains using Light Rust,
851 and 935. The stains pile up one on
Pigments are essential for the lower half of the hull. In
this case weve employed here Vallejos dark yellow ocre
73103, natural umber 73109, dark ochre 73017 and Mig
Productions Brick Dust P239 and Rubber Dust P234.
Pigments in this section of the vehicle have been fixed in place with the
Pigment Binder liquid product ref. 26.233.
First phase for the application of oil
paint colors, selected by following
the needs of use: raw umber, burnt
umber, naples yellow, cinnabar
green, etc.
top of another and are applied quite ran-
domly. The final highlights are given
with a mixture of 935 and 877 both
Model Color references.
Afterwards we apply a Titan oil paint
wash with Burnt Umber and use Valle-
jos Burnt Sienna pigments and Migs
Fresh Rust plus Orange Rust.
The finishing touches here are a cou-
ple of Oil paint washes one with Raw
Umber and another one with Burnt
Umber both Titan references.
DIRT ON THE LOWER AREAS
I begin by doing a wash with Hum-
brols H-98. Before it dried up comple-
tely, I did large color stains employing a
mixture of Humbrols H-93 and H-121.
This is done while the H-98 paint is still
fresh mixing it along the edges of the
stains. Then, and while all this is still
fresh we put on the crevices, plank divi-
sions and all such some Vallejos pig-
ments to create some shadings with
73109 and 73113 to lighten it up.
51
In the motor area we combine oil
paint raw umber, burnt umber, Black
with Abteilungs 503 AK German
Grey streaks.
General rust effects and
specific rust effects on
the exhausts silencer
have Panzer Aces
Acrylics light rust, dark
rust, yellowish rust and
track primer.
The general paint scratch work is done with an old haywire haired
paintbrush using dark rust, black and a touch of gray.
The spare tracks have received a treatment similar to the one applied on the
exhaust but using more dark rust, light rust and yellowish rust all Panzer Aces
references.
The ring around the commanders
cupola was the subject of some pretty
extreme wear, the light stains are
made with the yellow base color
mixed with white a shade of gray,
light rust and dark rust.
The piece of canvas covering the base
of the mantlet is painted with Ger.
Tkcr. Feldgrau I and II all Panzer Aces
acrylics. Highlights from this color
range are also applied.
52
PAINT CHIPS
The abundant paint chips and scrat-
ches on the Schurtzen are made with
Panzer Aces Light Rust and Dark Rust
both straight from the can and mixed up.
These are applied both with a paintbrush
and a small sponge.
The fire extinguisher device on the
gun is painted black applying some lights
in it with a little highly diluted gray paint.
The final effect intended is of an opera-
tional vehicle of 1944, reinforced with
additional armoring painted with somber
hues used for the camouflage patterns
empl oyed on the central European
forests.
PIGMENTS ON THE TRACKS AND
LOWER AREAS
We also follow this procedure for the
tracks but we dont light these up so
much and we include sand colored pig-
ments applying these on a rather chaotic
fashion in terms of color hues and inten-
sity. The Vallejo pigments employed are
73103, 73106, 73107, 73110, 73108 and
73109. The Mig ones are: P029 Brick
Dust and P234 Rubble Dust. These are
also used on the track area, fenders,
lower surfaces of the frame, and lower,
frontal, rear and lateral areas.
The small porthole for the
machine gun appears quite
worn. Paint chips are done
with the yellow base color,
we also have some areas
with Dark Dust, some Dark
Rust, Track Primer and
some touches of graphite
powder or pencil lead.
Comparison between the
tracks with their base color on,
with pigments and a slight
sandpaper work which helps us
reveal the metal underneath
the Friulmodel tracks. A slight
wash will tone down the gloss
of the metal surfaces.
The tracks were covered with Panzer Aces IMPRIMACION ORUGAS and we
randomly use an array of pigments fixed in place with Vallejos own pigment
binder.
53
54
THREE COLOR CAMO
(Dunkelgelb RAL 7028)
Base: XF-59 Desert Yellow
(Tamiya Acrylics)
Highlights: XF-59 Desert Yellow +
XF-2 Flat White + XF-57 Buff
(Tamiya Acrylics)
GREEN CAMO
(Olivgrun RAL 6003)
XF-13 J.A. Green (Tamiya Acrylics)
BRICK BROWN
(Rortbraun RAL 8017)
XF-10 Flat Brow (Tamiya Acrylics)
WASHES
Overall dirt and its hues
AK012 Grime Streaks (Ak Interactive)
Raw Sienna, Yellow Ochre, Burnt
umber (Titan oil paint)
German Grey Lights (503 Abteilung)
AK013 Rust Streaks
SCHURTZEN
Same colors as used on the AFV. Dirt
on the mid to low areas.
035 Camouflage Pale Brown
(Model Air Vallejo)
Splashes: 983 Flat Earth
(Model Color Vallejo)
Inside of Schurtzen
984 Flat Brown (Model Color Vallejo)
983 Flat Earth (Model Color Vallejo)
OIL PAINT
Titan
82 Ivory Black
74 Raw Umber
90 Raw Sienna
96 Burnt Sienna
8 Naples Yellow
67 Cinnabar Green
78 Burnt Umber
MIG 502 Abteilung
Abt.015 Shadow Brown
Abt.170 German Grey
Abt.050 Olive Green
Abt.040 Faded Green
Talens Van Gogh
234 Raw Sienna
227 Yellow Ochre
105 Titanium White
629 Green earth
COLOR C
55
CHART
DIRT ON LOWER AREAS
Humbrol
H-98 Chocolate
H-93
H-121 Pale Stone
Pigments Vallejo
73109 Natural Umber
73113 Light Slate
FINAL TOUCHES ON TRACKS
AND LOWER AREAS
Pigments Vallejo
73103 Dark Yellow Ochre
73106 Burnt Sienna
73107 Dark Red Ochre
73108 Brown Iron Oxide
73109 Natural Umber
73110 Burnt Umber
MIG Production
P029 Brick dust
P234 Rubber Dust
PAINT CHIPS AND
SCRATCHES
Panzer Aces
301 Light Rust
302 Dark Rust
ZIMMERIT AREAS
Add a little white (Humbrol) to the
dry brush hues.
PROFILING
Titan Brown (Titan oils)
H-33 Black y H-98 Chocolate
(Humbrol)
Highlights dry brush
RAL 6003 Green: Army Green 1102
(Molak)
RAL 8017 Brown: Mattus Tay H-118
(Humbrol)
RAL 7028: Dark Yellow: Dak 171
(Molak)
PAINT CHIPS AND SCRATCHES
Panzer Aces
301 Light Rust
302 Dark Rust
303 Yellowish Rust
304 Track Primer
Model Air
71057 Black
TOOLS
Panzer Aces
301 Light Rust
302 Dark Rust
310 Old Wood
311 New Wood
312 Leather Belt
Model Air
71072 Gungrey
71057 Black
TRACKS
Panzer Aces
Base: 304 Track Primer
312 Leather Belt
301 Light Rust
Model Color
984 Flat Brown
871 Leather Brown
851 Bright Orange
935 Transparent Orange
877 Goldbrown
Track washes (Titan)
76 Burnt Umber
96 Burnt Sienna
Pigments for tracks
Burnt Sienna (Vallejo)
Fresch Rust y orange rust (MIG)
So it is crucial to fix pigments correctly to the
surface even if we sacrifice a little of the rea-
listic effect sought when recreating dirt. In
this review we will explain two different pig-
ment treatment options: dirt generated by
passing vehicles on a dirt road, and a second
one which would involve the dirt and sand
adhered to the lower areas of a given vehicle
and form clusters generated by its mixture
with grease water, oil etc.
58
We start with a vehicle with
previous dirt treatments and
some very light dirt on.
By: Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Pictures by the author
COLOR ||GM|NJS. A||L|CAJ|ON AND |||NG
A pigment is a colorant in a pure state, without any agglutinant or thinner, it is color
dust, and so even if you apply it, it would not adhere to any surface and it will stain
your fingers when touched, or disappear when cleansing the object it is in.
In order to distribute dirt evenly, we
use a makeup kit, these are cheap and
easy to find and can be purchased in
99c stores.
We will also use a dropper and
several old paintbrushes with
irregular hairs and some cheap
brushes, which can also be bought in
99c stores.
<a//-g /::<-:
/
59
- Odorless White Spirit: used for fixing
smoothly the superficial dirt layers on
nooks and crannies and other surfaces.
- Gravel & Sand: product used for fixing
thicker dirt pigment layers, with or
without some thin gravel, grass, etc.
- Watercolor, charcoal and pastel fixing
solution. This is very similar to the
previous product, and it is designed to
fix pastel, charcoal and even
watercolor, so it is perfect for fixing
color pigments on the lower areas and
the sides of vehicles.
- Pigment fixer: a product by AK. It has
an oil base with an enamel resin, and
fixes pigments safely, takes a long
time to dry up, and has a matt finish.
- Pigment Binder AV: this is a Vallejo
product and is therefore different
from the previous product; it fixes
pigments safely too, has a medium
drying time and a matt finish as well.
- Thinner/cleanser Humbrol: for
enamels; it cleanses completely the
pigments you apply, giving you the
option of starting all over again if
youre not pleased with the results
obtained.
Thinners and fixing products necessary for the color pigment treatments.
Range of colors which can be
used to convey thin dirt,
superficial dirt, dirt clusters,
compacted dirt. Well begin with
these Vallejo references: green
earth 73111, natural siena 73105,
natural umber 73109, dark yellow
ocre 73103 and light yellow ocre
73102. These colors give us the
color range predominant in the
Kursk area, a region with reddish
and yellow sands.
The vehicle
were
working
with has the
basic colors
and a light
dirt patina.
Colors are placed in a palette, using
eight of its compartments and
leaving two blank ones to place the
fixer and the thinner.
Two kinds of droppers, these will
be used to apply a certain
amount of fixer solution to the
pigments applied without
touching these.
Fixers and thinner used for this
occasion, because we will treat here
color pigments as if these were enamels.
60
Well begin by soaking the lower areas with a coat of
fixer, applied with a flat brush.
With an old brush and our soaked surface, we apply
natural umber.
The difference between a humid area and a dry one.
The front area is done with the same colors weve used
previously on the sides.
We apply green earth light which is a very luminous color
which gives us color richness and chromatic variation.
Once its all dry we brush off pigments which have not
properly adhered to the surface using a stiff haired paint
brush.
The natural siena color is brighter and can be used to
lighten up some areas.
When wet, pigments are darker than what theyll end up
looking later. These areas are going to be blow dried
now. We can repeat this operation as many times as we
need.
61
In order to get a coat of superficial
dirt well use a range of light colors
specifically: light yellow ocre 73102,
dark yellow ocre 73103, natural umber
73109, natural siena 73105, green earth
73111 and light siena 73104. In this case
well use green earth 73111, light siena
73104 and light yellow ocre73102.
This
pigment
mixture is
applied with
a makeup
brush.
LIGHTER DIRT TREATMENTS ON THE TURRET AND THE UPPER AREAS OF THE HULL.
The rear area is done with the same colors and
procedures. If we get some unwanted circlets we can
eliminate these with a flat tipped paint brush soaked
with pigment fixer.
Overall results of the dirt and weathering processes on
the lower part of the hull. Some circlets have been left
here purposefully in order to imitate what also appears
on the research pictures of the period.
With the dropper well apply a little bit of White Spirit in order to provide a
soft fixing for small amounts of pigment.
If we want to fix in place a greater
amount of pigments, well also apply
with the dropper some Pigment Fixer
product.
62
In order to convey dirt and a little sand around the features which stick out a
bit, we apply the pigments first and then we soak the area with the Pigment
Fixer product.
Another way of applying pigments is
by using the sponge brush found in
the makeup kit.
The vertical surfaces such as the
hollow anti-explosive protectors,
have a tendency to gather dirt in
trails by the water that may leak in.
In order to imitate this effect, we
soak with fixer all the surface of the
protection.
Using a well worn brush we apply
pigments making good use of the
awkward brush hairs.
In the flat surfaces such as the spares
box, pigments should be fixed in
place without touching these with a
brush; well simply use our dropper to
apply the fixer.
Dirt is shaped in stain like shapes and trails in a vertical and very realistic way.
EDITORIAL
The AFV hunter concept of a vehicle without a turret is born out of the need of the
German Army to face the superiority of the Russian tanks creating an easier to manufacture
instrument than a regular tank. Doing away with the turret and gaining some room for a gun
of a larger caliber and a lower profile were the results obtained. This improvisation gave
such good results that a string of vehicles with these features. Some of these are featured in
this issue.
Jari Hermilla shows us a vehicle of this characteristics; a Stug III. As usual, Jari shows us
something rare and different; there is nothing usual in his Panzerjaeger: not the schurtzen, not
its structure nor its casemate. Everything is unusual about it; even its paint. Once more we see
how we can do some interesting vehicles with very common kits.
The reports of the Russians concerning the Ferdinand hardly match the reports of its
manufacturers in Germany. The Russians were surprised that none of the Ferdinands captured
or destroyed was affected by shells hitting its combat chamber. Only once was the drivers
chamber hit by a shell coming via its tractor wheel. The Russians figured that once these
minor glitches were fixed, this AFV hunter would become a tough weapon to neutralize. The
complex manufacturing process of this vehicle was the real cause of its downfall.
Mario Gabas has recreated one of the Ferdinands who fought in the battle for Kursk. The
charisma of this monster of a vehicle has been perfectly captured here while undertaking the
Zitadelle Operation.
The production of the StuG IV was never massive because the Panzer IV took a lot of the
manufacturing resources for itself. Most Stug IVs first saw the battlefield in 1944. In this
period the Russian Steppes were no longer the fighting grounds; the central European forests
forced the camouflage patterns with dominant green, brown and yellow colors. Paint is
altogether darker in order to mimic the lights and shadows of the trees. This is what Alejandro
Quintana has sought to obtain mimicking to perfection the real vehicles. Here we can see the
full effects of the camouflage pattern in the midst of an autumn diorama; an outstanding
achievement for this hobby.
The Jagdpanther was without a doubt the best AFV hunter of its time. These vehicles are
credited with the failure of freeing the Arnhem Bridge. Jose Luis Lopez reproduces a vehicle
with the three color pattern applied with the latest techniques for miniature AFVs. The vehicle
is in the 1/48th scale but the effects obtained, make it look larger. Consistent with the time of
the year, yellow base color here is almost covered by the other camouflage colors. A base with
a railroad track section rounds up a fine piece of work.
Probably some of our readers will miss the larger Panzerjaeger; the Jagdtiger. Lovers of this
vehicle will have to fetch the latest issue of Model Laboratory: Model Laboratory issue 5.
We close this issue with a review of the ways to fix color pigments with different
procedures, applicable depending on the results which we want to obtain.
www.euromodelismo.com
www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.
Magazine?ref=hl
Director Editorial
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Redactor Jefe
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Han colaborado en este
nmero
Jos Luis Lpez Ruz,
Mario Gabas,
Jari Hemil,
Alejandro Quintana
Fotgrafos
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Fernando Caellas Planchuelo
Ilustraciones
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Diseo y maquetacin
KOMMAD S.L.
Imprime
Imprimia Artes grficas
Fotomecnica
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
J. David Hernndez Chacn
Infografa
J. David Hernndez Chacn
Redaccin, Equipo Tcnico,
Administracin y Publicidad
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
28017 Madrid
Tel.: 913 675 708
914 086 135
Fax: 914 085 841
accionpress@euromodelismo.com
Suscripciones
Maris Chacn y
Fernando Caellas
Tel. 913 675 708
Edita
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
Depsito Legal
M-51328-2003
ISSN: 1886-4457
Queda prohibida la
reproduccin total o parcial de
fotografas, textos y dibujos,
mediante impresin,fotocopia
o cualquier otro sistema, sin
permiso escrito de la editorial.
Panzer Aces no se hace
necesariamente solidaria de las
opiniones expresadas por sus
colaboradores.
APMD0P MD0LL|NC MACAI|N
ACCION PRESS, S.A.
C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 MADRID
Tel. 913 675 708 Fax 914 085 841
www.euromodelismo.com e-mail: suscripcio-
nes@euromodelismo.com
11Kt |1 Btt| |
11Kt | I|t EtIt|1 ||1I,
!94!-!94Z: ||1I|1] 11
tE||]t
|t.K[|H. | kt|. B:!0. |t.B|t.
|t.K[|H. || kt|. |:!. |t.B|t.
|t.K[|H. ||| kt|. H:J.
|t.B|t.
1|tKt 5
ttttt||tt:||1I|1] 11
t|1|t||1]
|t.K[|H. |V kt|. E:6.
|t.B|t.
|t.K[|H. |V kt|. |-!:b.
|t.B|t., |t. B]I. J!
|t.K[|H. |V kt|. |-Z:!4.
|t.B|t., |t. B]I. J6
|1t1I|||tI|1 tEI|t:1|t
tEI|tEt tt1 I t|E1
t|tHt |1 I|t EtIt|1 ||1I,
!94!-!94Z.
11Kt |1 Btt| ||
k ||I|t| 1|tt 1
tE||]tt Itt1 1 1tH
|1||EI|1. ktttEI| 11
t[t|1tI|||1] | Btt|1
11 t|E1I1Kt 11
t[tt||| I|t |||H|1]
E1t|t:
|t.K[|H.J6 lII,
1-Z6
1-60
1-J4l!6 E1.!940
1-J4 E1.!94!
1-J4l!6 E1.!94!l4Z
EK|1E|
B1-b
B1-!, ,
KV-|| E1.!9J9,
KV-| E1.!94!
KV-|E.
11Kt |1 Btt| |||
EEI|tEt | k|E|t1
t|E1 01|It 1 I|t
EtIt|1 ||1I, !94J-!94b
t|E1 OE||]t O||t,
!94J lBk| 640BI
Btt|1 OE||]t O||t,
!94J
|t.K[|H. ||| kt|. -
|t.B]I.J., Z. |t.B|t.
|t.K[|H. |V kt|. - Z0. |t.
B|t.
|t.K[|H. V kt|. B - b!.
|t.kII., ||| |t.B]I.bJ
1-J4l!6 1. !94J. J0I|
|1 k|E|t1
11Kt |1 Btt| |V
|t.K[|H. V |1I|t| kt|. k,
b.SS-|t.B|t. |K|1]
|t||||tt: |t.K[|H. V |1I|t|
kt|. k
|t.K[|H. V| I|]t| kt|. E , Z.
|t.B]I., SS-|t.|t1.B|t. Bt
Bt|t|
|t||||tt: |t.K[|H. V| I|]t|
kt|. E
|t.K[|H. V| I|]t| kt|. E ,
St|. |t.kII. b09
|t.K[|H. V| I|]t| kt|. E ,
St|. |t.kII. b09 tt|t|1
|1t|t|1
|S-! lKV-6bI, 01|11 1t
t1I|t1E|t1I tt|t 1t |
|I||t K||ttK|
|S-!, !J |t]|E|t1I 1t
t|}t 1t t||t [tt1t
1t | ]|1|
11Kt |1 Btt|
!!| S|1 BI
!!| Z0|
HISTOREX AGENTS
Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street,
Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ
www.historexagents.com
ACCION PRESS, S.A.
C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 MADRID - ESPAA Tel: +34 913 675 708 Fax :+34 914 085 841
www.euromodelismo.com e-mail: web@euromodelismo.com
6 |
J6 |k|NkS
J6 |kES