Scopes of Improvisation in Knit-Dyeing process of Cotton in Bangladesh to optimize the process-time

Md. Wet 1st Rakibul of Textile Process Talent Hunt Department, !!" anc#ored b$ Hassan CTET %TT

&uper'isor( ).*.M. Mo#sin )#med,+eneral Mana,er -D$ein,.,*nit Concern /td.

Abstract: Knit dyeing is the shiniest star in the sky of textile dyeing in Bangladesh. Knit-Garments sectors hold more than 40% of the annual export items proportion, which shows how influencing the role of knit dyeing industries is in our economy. owe!er, this !astly growing industry should "e far-sighted and well prepared for all the upcoming challenges like insta"ility in energy situation, en!ironmental degradation and glo"al economic crisis etc. #he purpose of this in!estigation is to o!er!iew the whole con!entional process of knit dyeing of cotton fa"ric and sort out the areas of concern which might "e altered to esta"lish new technologies also de!elop the process in order to compete with other counter parts. #he main focus of this study is to optimi$e and reduce the processing time aiming %&# without any ma'or change in the system. Introduction #he dyeing of cotton knitted fa"ric is a !ery complicated as well as interesting process. #his is the most important sector among the dyeing industries in Bangladesh. #hrough out the years the Knit-dyeing industries ha!e created their own way of working in!ol!ing technology ( experience. )o the process of dyeing is well esta"lished. But in present ad!erse situation of the socio-economy and highly competiti!e "usiness-world, things are threatening our existence in international market. *ost importantly the lack of energy supply in our country, en!ironmental degradation is getting worse day "y day+ moreo!er, the e!er-degrading profit margin ( extremely limited lead time for order are making it almost impossi"le for dyers to complete the task. )o there has to "e some sort of re-thinking ( steps should "e taken to cope with this ad!erse situation. #here are a lot of scopes where new inno!ation is re,uired for example, in the dyeing method, machines which are currently used, the energy and utility used for dyeing etc. -ne of the most important issues is the .process-time/+ "ecause the dying operation should "e done in !ery precise time limit as the lead time of the orders are getting shorter and shorter. 0lso there should "e enough time gi!en for achie!ing accurate shade. #his makes the whole process !ery difficult. Besides there is energy pro"lems which some time gets so se!ere that the process can/t "e carried out. 1ue to all these reasons we ha!e to complete dyeing in minimum time with optimum ,uality. #his is the point of discussion in this in!estigation. #he process time controlling is not an easy operation "ecause shade matching is the most unpredicta"le task in dyeing. )o the first o"'ecti!e is to match the shade in la" trial also implementation in "ulk and also decide the specific %&# for the whole process. #hen the actual controlling of the process se,uence to achie!e %&# comes into action. Methodology: #he paper is "ased on case-study of num"er of selecti!e factories of a selected $one of Bangladesh. 2t also includes some prospecti!e ideas or suggestions "ased on pro"a"ility-analysis of different factors. #he whole work is a com"ination of theoretical as well as in!estigational work on currently faced pro"lems "y the industries. Deciding RFT in Knit-Dying #he present situation of dying process in Knit sector is well esta"lished ( successful. But there are new challenges arising e!eryday which are trying to unsettle this progress. #he process can "e impro!ed more if some new technology is introduced under precise condition making sure that the ,uality of production is not degraded. #he knit dyeing process of cotton is almost entirely using %eacti!e 1yes ( 3xhaust methods, which are still undou"tedly successful. But there are some pro"lems which were not pre!iously taken into consideration due to flexi"le market situation, now the "usiness is !ery complex and competiti!e. )o now some of them are playing !itally in the ratio of profit with ,uality.

#he first ( the foremost target of any industrial production are to produce in the least time with maximum ,uality. 0t present days our knit dyeing industries are affecting with reduction of profit margin, economic crisis in countries, energy crisis etc. 2n such hostile condition the industries should concentrate !ery carefully on the duration of unit production, making the dyeing right in the minimum process steps. #hat/s why intense control of process should "e done to get as much as close towards right-first-time dyeing. Aiming RFT in Reactive dyeing in exhaust method 456 %ight first time dyeing in cotton knitted fa"ric is a !ery complex ( hard to control. 2t !aries from shade to shade, lot to lot, factory to factory. #o minimi$e the process time a series of controlling of !aria"les is re,uired. 2t starts from choosing the right yarn lot to the finishing process of dyeing. #he utility used in processing like 7 water, steam etc. plays a !ery inflecti!e role in achie!ing %&#. 8aria"les of scopes of controlling %&#456 0ssigna"le !aria"les in *easura"le factors that influence 1yeing :erformance is controlled as "elow; dyeing496

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

<i,uor %atio 2nternal p of &a"rics 1ye-&ixation #emperature )pecific gra!ity of )alt =)alt >oncentration? 0ddition :rofile =1yestuff/s 0ddition "eha!ior? 1ye-fixation p 1yeing >ycle #ime !aria"les

%andom &actors that re,uire inter!ention of management to effect control of 2mpurities in;

1. 2. 3. 4. 1. 2. 3.

>otton @ater supply >hemicals e.g. A> of raw materials >ontrolled >oloration >oncept

Checking ist !or exhaust dyeing "rocess: 456 @ater ardness #est; @ith ardness #est-strips. =DEFBG? at 0.5 mlHl for each 0.5 gHl Ca >-D. #est 2f total amount of hardness from Bicar"onate in dye-"ath; #ested with *ethyl--rangeB >2 #est. :resence of Ca >-D in dye-"ath water works as "uffer+ )o, increase Ca)alt ardness #est; @ith ardness #est-strips ( Ca-

water, salt ( material is more than 50Fd , try to reduce. &or water; 2ncrease )e,uestrant &or salt; >hange salt to good ,uality &or material; 1eminerali$ation can sol!e it.2f not possi"le, try to dye with -nly )oda ash method.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

%esidual :eroxide; @ith :eroxide test-strips =if 'ust "leached material? 0lkali >oncentration; >orrect concentration to "e used =if different, con!ert it? %ecipe>alculation; )hould "e done for dyes ( auxiliaries

1. 2. 1. 2. 1. 2. 3. 6. 7. 1. 2.

#o measure weight, a "alance is to "e used. #o measure !olume, a cylinder or pipette is to "e used. p with p test paper ardness test-strips

*aterial ,uality >hecking; ardness with

*achine parameters; 1ependa"ility of thermometer >irculation pump/s pressure =in package dyeing of yarn? @inch speed =in rope dyeing for knit goods? #otal amount of water @ater needed for =dyestuffs B 0lkali? )olution.

1yeing <i,uor %atio; the amount of water in 1yeing machine;

@ater contamination always changes ( it ad!ersely affects %&# performance. )o here/s a

standard water property for dye-house usage; 456 p ;I-E ardness ; max. JFd )uspended matter ; K 5 mgHl -rganic load ; K 90 mgHl %esidue on ignition ; K J0 mgHl 2ron ; K 0.5 mgHl *anganese ; K 0.0J mgHl >opper ; K 0.05 mgHl Citrate ; K J0 mgHl Citrite ; K J mgHl &ree >-9 0 if possi"le =risk of corrosion# Color control496

)election of dyes Beha!ior of dyes in com"ination 0ccuracy of la"oratory dyeing recipe 0ccuracy of transfer to "ulk-scale recipe Batch to "atch reproduci"ility in "ulk-scale dyeing *ethod of color assessment 1etermination of metameric index

#hese :arameters )how the scopes of controlling the process of reacti!e dyeing which will e!entually rise to %&# dyeing. #he closer to %&# decides maximum producti!ity.

Reasons $hy %rocess time needs to &e o"timi'ed in (angladesh: >urrent pro"lems faced "y the dyeing industries 7

)hort lead time uge competiti!e market *ost se!ere is the gas crisis, gas-pressure falls a"out less than 50 psi.

:ossi"le 0ction for o!ercome the process time 7 >hanging the whole process techni,ues, "uilding new method of work. )light change of process parameters for reducing the time.

)econd one is discussed here which is more suita"le at this stage for ma'or num"er of industries in our country "ecause most of the suffering industries in our country are still of mid-le!el standard. A )tatistical Time-Analysis o! RFT in Di!!erent Knit-Dyeing Industries o! (angladesh ere a detailed analysis of #ime in Knit-dyeing process of three different well-esta"lished Knit-dyeing factories situated at Carayangon', in 1haka di!ision. 1ue to the current hostile situation the mid-le!el industries are getting more affected, that/s why this region was chosen to analy$e on there point of !iew. &or protecting confidentiality, the names of factories are not disclosed here. ere we will look at them as Factory A* ( ( C+ 0 standard process of dyeing similar kind of fa"ric with similar type of shade for each &actory is studied and )tatistics of time re,uired for each steps collected for comparati!e study to find the reasons of fluctuating %&# if the dyeing is right without any addition or topping. )tandardi'ation: @ater Auality &actory 0 7 hardness L JFd &actory B 7 hardness L JFd &actory B 7 hardness L JFd )ingle Nersey <ine :ressure M 4 kgHcm9 <ine :ressure M D kgHcm9 <ine :ressure M D kgHcm9

&a"ric Auality >olor *;<

gsm - 5I0-5O0 weight 7 O00-OJ0 kg

*edium to dark color 5;O for "oth )couring ( 1yeing

1yeing *achine Psed >hemical

# :

>apacity 7 E00 kg

Co$$le :ressure 7 4 to I psi

0lmost similar ,uality in all three factories

Com"arison o! RFT !or scouring ,$ith &io "olishing# "rocess in Three Industries

Com"arison o! RFT !or Dyeing "rocess in Three Industries

Analysis and Discussion

&rom a"o!e chart of %&# we can see the total time of thatparticular rightly dyed "atch 7 &actory .0/ 7 9I0BD9JM JEJ min i.e. Q hrs( 4J min &actory .B/ 7 94QBDO0M I5Q min i.e. 50 hrs (5Q min &actory .>/ 79J9BDD4M JEI min i.e. Q hrs (4I min Basic difference of process parameters three factories -peration-wise time-consumption during the whole process 7

Cow we look into the indi!idual difference ( comparison of time re,uired for specific process in the three industries 7

1yeing method;

&actory 0, > uses .0ll in/ method where dyeing ( fixation "oth happen in I0Fc. -n the other hand &actory B uses .*igration/ method, which takesQ% more dyeing time than &actory 0( >.

1osing system;

2n case of color ( soda dosing, &actory 0 uses .<inear dosing/ all the way through according to cycle time. -n the other hand, &actory B uses .:rogressi!e dosing/+ &actory > uses .fixed time dosing/.

&actory

#otal dosing type ( time =min?

>omparison in %

>olor ( )oda dosing time =min.?

>omparison in %

%emarks

<inear 7 55I

55D%

II

590%

-!erall time consuming, "ut precise dosing. 3ffecti!e for good %&# and precise as well #ime sa!ing "ut not precise.

:rogressi!e 7 509

500%

JJ

500%

>

&ixed time 7 550

50O%

O0

59E%

#emperature gradient;

&actory 0 uses gradual increment of temperature in 5.J or 9FcHmin. &actory B

( > don/t usually uses gradient in temperature except in color steam factory B uses gradient. But &actory > ne!er uses gradient. 2t sa!es time though it is not recommended for perfect dyeing. #otal time consumed in temperature rise =min? &actory 0 B > JI JQ 49 5DD% 540% 500% >omparison ( %emarks

%inse ( &ill;

%inse ( &illing consume a ma'or amount of time in the whole process-time. 2t depends on the <ine @ater pressure of the factory. ere, line pressure of &actory 0 7 4 kgHcm9 on the other hand factory B ( > ha!e D kgHcm9 pressure which results great difference in the time consumption.

&actory ( @ater pressure 0 B >

%inse ( &illing #ime JO min II min II min

>omparison in % 500% 55J% 55J%

:ortion=%? of total time E% 59% 5D%

%ossi&le )co"es o! Im"roving RFT

1. 2. 3.

3ffecti!e <oadingH Pnloading;

0round DJ-40 min is lost during loading and unloading. 2f the trolleys are rightly managed and a string is used to load the fa"ric, almost 40% time can "e reco!ered, i.e. around -.--/ min. time can "e sa!ed. igh :ressure impro!ed &illH%inse system;

0round 55-59 times rinse ( filling are done se,uentially during whole process, which consume around I0-O0 min. it depends on the line-water pressure. 2f the water pressure can "e maintained around J kgHcm9 "y using the "ooster pump effecti!ely, the rinse ( fill time can "e reduced to 40-J0 min i.e. at least 0. min can "e sa!ed. Psing :rogressi!e 1osing;

 4. 5.

#ype of dosing affects the whole time of process as linear dosing is time consuming so progressi!e dosing is more effecti!e. 2n case of the auxiliaries in'ection can "e easily implied. #his sa!es time around 90-D0% i.e. -/-0. min. Psing *ulti-functional chemicalsH su"stitute;

)alt su"stitute is !ery effecti!ely used in one of our studied factory. #hey uses su"stitute in almost Q0% case, which reduces the cost per kg around J-I tk. ( reduces time of process as num"er of auxiliaries is not re,uired here also 'ust J0% salt is re,uired. Psing multi-functional agents also reduces the time consumption. 0round -/-0.min can "e sa!ed "y using *&>. Psing :re-heated water;

2f the water in preparation tank is preheated to J0-I0Fc "y using the used steam from heatexchanger, it will result huge time sa!ings. ere a comparison ta"le is shown 7

)te"s $here tem"+ is needed )couring steam QJFc

Time !or rising tem" i! conventional normal $ater 50 min

Time !or rising tem"+ i! $ith "re-heated $ater /.-1.2c J min =new water taken here? J min 5 min 9 min =without gradient? 5 min 9 min =without gradient? J min =without gradient? 5min 05 min

)couring hot Q0Fc 3n$yme JJFc 3n$yme steam O0Fc

50 min 9 min D min =without gradient? J min 9 min =without gradient? 50 min =without gradient? J min 34 min

>olor steam I0Fc Cormal ot wash O0Fc

>hemical hot wash Q0Fc

&ixing I0Fc Total

%e!ised %&# if these factors would "e used; #otal accumulated sa!ed time is =50B90B5JB5JB90? M 6. min. )o the completed at 6 - 6+/7rs ole 1yeing process may "e

&or light shades it would "e 4+/ 8 6 hrs )o it is ,uite clear that 'ust precise controlling is enough to ac,uire a useful %&#. owe!er dyeing is the most unpredicta"le operation. )o there is ne!er e!er fully assured of the time limit. C9:C ;))I9: < R=MARK) #he impro!isation is a !ery !ast idea of working. 2t is a continuous inno!ation in the process. #he discussion a"o!e is simply showing the scopes not the whole system in!ol!ed. -ptimi$ing time is ne!er a fixed or standard type of work+ it !aries from shade to shade. But still it needs to "e controlled !ery precisely for limiting the process time.

Ackno$ledgments:

0K* *ohsin 0hmed-G*, Knit >oncern ltd. *. %e$aul Karim #utul - 0.>.3.- <egend 1yechem :rof. 1r. Rulhash Pddin- ead of @et :rocess 1epartment, >#3# *d. *onirul 2slam - 0ssociate :rofessor, ead of #extile *anagement 1epartment, >#3# 0 ) * #are, 0min - Bangladesh #extile #oday 3ngr. Golam %a""i Khan - :roduction *anager, *etro Knit ltd. 3ngr. )hushanto - )enior :.-. *icro &i"er ltd. 3ngr. )hiha" 7 :.-. #ex 3urope Bd. <td.

2 cordially apologi$e if there is any misinformation regarding any factory data which is ,uite unintentional. Re!erences

1. 2.

0chie!ing %&# =%ight &irst #ime? in 3xhaust dyeing 7 =compiled "y? *. %e$aul Karim #utul 3!olution of right-first-time dyeing production =N.).1.>.? - N :ark and N )hore