THE

BEST

of

the

PA S T R Y

COMMUNITY
Issue 12, FEBRUARY 2008

US World Cup Team Fashion Show Silicone Simplicity Cranberry Three Ways Kugelhopf

The Vanilla Extract from Eurovanille is unique. It contains no alcohol and is more concentrated (200g/ liter) than the standard alcoholbased products. Because there is no alcohol evaporation and more vanilla beans per measure, the yield will be approximately 4 times higher. Available exclusively from:

770-252-6377 www.pastrynet.com

10
Issue 12, FEBRUARY 2008

FEATURES
Interview with En-Ming Hsu by Pastrys Best Staff by Kim Rothrock

6 Shadowing the US World Cup Team to Lyon Part 1

10 Recipe for the Runway

DEPARTMENTS
by Michael Joy and Susan Notter

12 Silicone Simplicity 21 Hot Choclate

21

by James W. Mullaney

White Chocolate Dlice Vila Gracinda Rasberry

25 Michel Cluizel Recipes 29 Verrines et Petit-Gteaux 34 Coquelicot 35 Attraction

22 35

by Stphane Glacier by Oliver Bajard

by Laurent Duchne by Theodore Pary by Theodore Pary

38 Pistachio Crme Brule Verrine 39 Boston Creme Cake 40 Kugelhopf

39 40

by Mitch Stamm

by Michael Joy with Anthony Chavez 46 Happy New Year with Randy Sebastien

43 Partner Information 45 How in the World

46

MAGAZINE EXCERPTS
Innovative Desserts from Italy Cranberry Three Ways

17 Pasticceria Internazionale 22 Thuris Magazine

OUR COVER
Pagoda Cake
Courtesy Michele Hester and Sugarveil. For details, go to www.sugarveil.com.

www.pastrysbest.com | 3

David Kee Publisher Darryl Lilly Manager Betsy OBrien Editor Darryl Lilly Art Director Publishers Press Printing Kim Rothrock, Michael Joy, Beatrice Schneider, Mitch Stamm Contributing Writers En-Ming Hsu, Stphane Trand Chris Northmore, Cindy Cameron Pastry Advisors Darryl Lilly P.O. Box 71442 Newnan, Georgia 30271 770-252-6377 darryl@pastrybest.com
Pastrys Best Magazine is published quarterly by Pastrys Best, LLC. All contents are copyright 2008, Pastrys Best Magazine. All rights reserved. No portion of this issue may be copied, scanned, or reproduced in any manner without prior written consent from the Publisher. Unauthorized users will be billed appropriately for such use. For your free copy of the magazine, contact your local distributor. Printed in the U.S.A.

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In collaboration with www.pastrysbest.com Pastrys Best Magazine, 2008

INTERNET RESOURCES
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From the Publisher

Friends, At one time, chefs hung on to their recipes as if their life depended upon the secrets they held. Today, while a few still have that sentiment, most are willing to openly share their knowledge, tricks, tools, discoveries and creations with the rest of us. This has been one of the many refreshing developments of the last decade in the pastry community. Web forums and publications such as Pastrys Best are new hubs for the dissemination of industry knowledge. This openness has challenged many to try new things, think outside the box and come up with more and more originality something from which we all benefit! We have dedicated this issue to recipes and have asked many of our contributors to share some of their more unique creations, along with some nice photographs. These recipes are practical, different and above all look and taste great! So, go ahead, feel free copy them all you want and even take credit for them if you want. Were family and we dont have secrets anymore! Want more recipes? Get your fill by purchasing our compilation of Pastrys Best first 10 issues! Go online to www.pastrysbest.com and get a copy! Enjoy!

David Kee Publisher david@pastrynet.com

A 384-page Compilation Edition of the first ten issues of the magazine is available online for $49 plus shipping.

From The Publisher

! Y A D O T E B I SUBSCR
To subscribe go to www.pastrysbest.com
www.pastrysbest.com | 5

A truly International magazine tailored to the passionate pastry professional.

Until the World Cup event in January 2009, and in each of the next five issues, Pastrys Best will be following the teams progress with contributions from coach En-Ming Hsu and the reflections of team alternate Jim Mullaney.

Shadowing the US World Cup Team to Lyon

by Pastrys Best Staff

he selection of the 2009 United States World Cup team took place at LAcadmie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland on November 3 and 4. The following pastry chefs made the team and will represent the U.S. in Lyon for the finals of the World Cup of Pastry.

David Ramirez

Rosen Shingle Creek Hotel, Orlando, Florida (Captain)

Rmy Funfrock Roy Pell

The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado The Phoenician, Scottsdale, Arizona

Jim Mullaney

The Cloister, Sea Island, Georgia (Alternate)

The judges were Pierre Cantrel, Derek Poirier, Gilles Renusson and Anil Rohira. The team will be coached by En-Ming Hsu and Sylvain Leroy.

6 | February 2008 |

The Alternate View

The Beginning
By James W. Mullaney
As 2007 comes to a close and 2008 begins, I reflect on what I have been a part of this past year and find myself feeling fortunate to be where I am. Just a year ago my friend, David Ramirez and I flew to Lyon, France to commis for Team USA 2007 and today we are part of Team USA 2009. A few months ago we participated in the national selection process in Gaithersburg, Maryland. David was chosen captain and sugar

Here we go again! Its time for another Pastry World Cup for En-Ming Hsu!

Whats your motivation? A. The motivation for me is that each passing World Cup gives me two more years to become fluent in French so that I may return triumphant to Lyon and parle en franais avec Monsieur Paillasson. Or, at least, understand the chatter during the competition! On the pastry side, the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie has always been special for me. Having been a part of the US organization since 2001 when we won the gold medal, I have become more involved with our recent teams, working directly to support them. Team USA 2001, my team, would not have been successful without the efforts of Chefs Stanton Ho, Donald Wressell, Jody Klocko and Keegan Gerhard. Fully understanding what it takes for a team to get ready, I want to help other chefs experience what I did: the unique spirit and atmosphere of this extraordinary event and to come home with the gold. What are the objectives for this years team? A. The main objective is to win the gold medal. To get there, the team must work hard to stay on schedule, be innovative, and focus on the small details that make a difference in their performance. Its difficult to work continuously for over a year on the same subject. They have to stay on track and weather through times that can seem very frustrating.

artist for the new team. Remy Funfrock was picked for degustation, and Roy Pell will work chocolate and ice. My role will be that of alternate, an unusual position for me and a sour pill to swallow. After the initial disappointment of the announcement and a little soul searching, I made the decision to push as if I were a full fledged team member and help them reach the goal of becoming World Champions. I knew this meant I would have to work hard at every position and, potentially, not be needed for any. This would also present equipment issues. I have most of what I need for chocolate, but degustation, ice and sugar all have specialized equipment that I would have to purchase. So, by this years end, whether I remain the alternate or become a team-member, I will be a stronger Pastry Chef with better skills. And as a bonus, Ive been asked to share this experience with the readers of Pastrys Best Magazine through this column. Future issues will detail the planning, preparation and execution of a well laid plan on the road to the next World Championship.

Feature Story

James W. Mullaney is the Executive Pastry Chef at The Cloister at Sea Island in Georgia. He is also winner of the 2005 National Pastry Championship.

www.pastrysbest.com | 7

How did the word get out about potential prospects for the team? A. Applications for the team selection were distributed through our sponsors. Finalists were invited to compete at LAcademie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland. Explain the selection process and how the finalists were chosen. A. The team selection process has changed from year to year. Most of the selections in the past have involved a competition that mimicked the requirements of the actual Coupe du Monde competition in Lyon. The selection for Team 2009 was different. The application specified that if there were fewer than six finalists, a practical would not be held. The team would be selected based on the candidates application, portfolio, and an interview with a jury. It just so happened that we ended up with six finalists, so the practical was not held. When was the final selection decided? A. The National Team selection was held on November 3 and 4, 2007, at LAcademie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland which is the official training site of the 2009 team. The selection weekend was sponsored by Valrhona. The team was picked after an in-depth interview with each candidate. LAcademie de Cuisine hosted a dinner in honor of the finalists that evening. On the following day the team held their first meeting, planning their schedule and discussing their theme, dessert concepts, and ideas. The first practice is scheduled for January with monthly group meetings thereafter.
8 | February 2008 |

How was it without a practical? A. The selection worked well without a practical, particularly since the finalists abilities were known through previous competitions. In addition to skill and work experience, the jury members interviewed the candidates individually to learn more about them. How did team dynamics fit into the process? A. Team dynamics were important. All aspects of each candidate were considered in the selection process, including skill, motivation, and personality. It was very difficult for the jury. Team dynamics were considered because the group will spend a lot of time together and there will be some difficult times. It will be up to each member to resolve any problems and continue with the progress of the team. What are the strengths of each of the members of this team? A. What is exciting about this team is the talent they bring together. They are very passionate about their work. Each chef has over 20 years of working experience, and all have excelled in pastry competitions. David Ramirez, Team Captain, and Jim Mullaney, Team Alternate, have competed together three times, collecting Gold and Bronze Medals in the 2005 National and 2006 World Team Championships, and a Silver medal in the 2004 Bread and Pastry Championship. David is Executive Pastry Chef of Rosen Shingle Creek, Orlando, and Jim is Executive Pastry Chef of The Cloister Hotel, Sea Island.

Feature Story

Roy Pell, Executive Pastry Chef of The Phoenician Scottsdale, was part of the 2004 Culinary Olympics team that brought home a Silver and Gold medal. Remy Funfrock, Restaurant Pastry Chef of The Broadmoor Colorado Springs, has competed twice in the National Pastry Championship, winning Silver medals both times. As pastry chefs for leading hotel and resort properties, they are well rounded in all aspects of the pastry field. They have divided the competition responsibilities based on personal interest and strength, but that may change as they develop their routine. David is said to have the blood type C for his love of chocolate, so he will be primarily responsible for the chocolate artistry. Remy and Roy will work together on the ice carving and sugar piece. Remys passion is desserts, so he will focus on the desserts as well. Jim, who is extremely goal-oriented, has already immersed himself into learning ice carving. He has the daunting task of needing to be ready in all the required fields at a moments notice if something should happen to one of the other teammates.

What is to be accomplished in the next three months? A. Their first practice is in January, so much will depend on what they accomplish then. By March, the team should have their buffet concept complete and have their flavor profiles for the desserts decided. It is important for them to be secure with the buffet designs before they start to build the pieces. They will work on several dessert ideas in January and refine from there. The beginning is probably the most difficult part in the process. The year goes quickly so they need to think carefully through each step and focus on working efficiently. Are we on schedule and what are our chances at this point? A. The team has a schedule of target dates for 2008. It is a tight schedule, so they need to stay focused. Being a serious group, they will make it happen. They have a strong support system surrounding them. At this point, their chances are as good as the other 19 teams. Like the others, it will be up to them to do their best. What really counts is how they feel, especially mentally, at their last practice in December and in the days leading up to the competition. I am very confident that they will represent America well and achieve their goals.

VARDA CHOCOLATIER
41 S. Spring St. Elizabeth, NJ 07201 800-448-2732 www.vardachocolatier.com

For Any Occasion

Model wearing creation by Chef Steve Evetts.

Kim Rothrock is a consultant to the specialty foods and foodservice industry. With over 20 years experience n the field as pastry chef in a number of award winning New York restaurants and with companies such as Balducci, Dean & Deluca and Dairyland. Kim is especially sensitive to trends and product development in pastry.
Photos courtesy of Hall PR, NYC

10 | February 2008 |

Recipe for the Runway

by Kim Rothrock

Lights, Camera, Melt?

Chef Zac Young struts down the catwalk Chef Martan Howard and his autumn innovation

IngrEDiEnts:

Chocolate Fashion Designer Pastry Chef or Chocolatier MEthOD: Designer and Chef collaborate to create fashion concept. Chef executes fashion concept in chocolate and chocolate products. prEsEntatiOn: 15 minutes prior to fashion show, apply chocolate ensemble components to model.

The 10th Annual New York Chocolate Shows opening night eventthe Chocolate Fashion Showis not a competition, but a celebration of creative and technical chocolate skills that pairs pastry chefs and chocolatiers with fashion designers to create edible ensembles for the runway. The event benefits City Harvest, a food rescue organization dedicated to feeding the citys hungry. Designers & Chef/Chocolatiers: Carmen Marc Valvo and Yvan Lemoine of iFood Studios Michael Plosky and Martin Howard of Brasserie 8 1/2 Abaete and Richard Capizzi of Per Se Restaurant Adam Ciafarani and Steve Evetts, Marriott Hotel Adrienne Toubbeh and Stevie Famulari, Sugart Catalin Varga and Ortrud Carstens, Haute Chocolature Irina Shabayeva with Tim Brown and Joshua Needleman, Chocolate Springs Jessie Lyric and Bethany Thouin, Bethany: Chocolatier Nicole Romano and Zac Young, Butter Restaurant

Chef RichardCapizzi with his model

Tim Brown and Joshua Needleman

Feature Story
www.pastrysbest.com | 11

Silicone Simplicity
Susan Notter, Pastry Chef Consultant
Susan_Notter@yahoo.com

Modern art with minimal effort

Michael Joy, Chicago School of Mold Making

Joy@ChicagoMoldSchool.com

Produced by Beatrice Schneider

ome chefs have the ability to make things look easy. Pastry Chef Susan Notter is one of these people. She is among a growing number of pastry chefs being asked to provide an artistic bridge between classical hand skills and innovative new casting techniques. As a seasoned competitor, Susan knows judges want to see strength in hand skills such as pulled and blown sugar. She also recognizes that they want to be surprised with new designs and techniques.

Chef Notter has coauthored several books and travels the world teaching a wide range of pastry classes. She knows rst hand the creative challenges todays chefs face in professional kitchens. With less time and higher expectations as the norm, we want to help bring some balance back into the equation. To help chefs meet this challenge, Chef Notter and I will demonstrate two versatile techniques. The rst is a quick and easy way to make custom silicone shapes and the second is a fast-track casting technique. The results will startle you with how easy it is to achieve individual, creative results in a short period of time.

12 | February 2008 |

1. Primary materials needed: Flex & Bake silicone, thick foam core, Elmers glue, Vaseline, scissors, X-Acto knife, acetate sheet.

2. Cut out the paper shapes. Three designs (from a book of symbols) are copied and enlarged. Next, the inside shapes are cut out.

3. Transfer the images to foam core. Before transferring the images, cut the foam core into a manageable 8 x 11 section. This is the same size as the acetate you will place beneath it in photograph 8.

4. Cut out the shapes. With a new blade, cut out the foam core shapes. Next, cut connecting lines between all three shapes. This will create a multi-piece template that can be separated to release your silicone shapes.

5. Sand the edges smooth. Using an emery board or sand paper, smooth the inside surfaces. The edges dont have to be perfect, but they should not be jagged or rough. (Do not sand in an area where food is prepared.)

6. Seal the foam edges with glue. Use Elmers craft glue to seal the inside foam edges. Feed the glue onto the edge and then smooth it with your nger. When dry, the layer of glue will reduce the porosity of the foam. (Glue has been pigmented for clarity.)

Pastry Educaiton

7. Apply Vaseline as a release agent. Once the glue has completely dried (two hours or so), apply a thin layer of Vaseline to the inside surfaces. Only a thin glaze of Vaseline is needed. Do not apply a thick gloppy coat or it may inhibit the cure of your silicone.

8. Reassemble the template. Not shown: A sheet of acetate is taped into a new sheetpan. Next, apply drops of Elmers glue to hold down the foam core to the acetate surface. (Without acetate, the silicone will stick to the sheetpan.)

9. Press the foam core at. To ensure a tight contact surface between the foam core and acetate, small bags of rice are used to weigh it down. Allow the glue to dry for several hours.

www.pastrysbest.com | 13

10. Mix the silicone. From the Flex & Bake starter kit, 200 grams of base are weighed out. When using liquid silicone materials, gloves and safety glasses should be worn. Do not mix or pour in areas where food is prepared.

11. Add the catalyst. Flex & Bake silicone is mixed in a ratio of 10:1 by weight. To complete the batch, 20 grams of catalyst (purple) are added to the base. Mix until a uniform violet color is achieved.

12. Pour the silicone. To reduce air bubbles, pour the silicone in a slow, thin stream (needling). Most bubbles will stretch and burst before entering the form. It is alright for some small air bubbles to remain on the surface.

13. Allow the silicone to cure. 24-36 hours later, the foam is ipped over and unmolded. If the silicone is still tacky (cold rooms can slow the cure), do not unmold. Place entire sheetpan in a 100F oven (or warm area) for several hours. Leave alone until silicone rms.

14. Clean up the silicone shapes. Fiskars curved-tip craft scissors are the best for trimming ash (excess silicone) from the edges. Remember to save your foam core template. It can be used again.

15. Post-cure the silicone. Before using your silicone shapes, wash them in warm soapy water and bake them in an oven at 300F for 3 hours. This is necessary to complete the cure of Flex & Bake silicone.

Pastry Education

16. Prepare for casting. On a sheet of vinyl, two silicone Noodles are contoured around the silicone shapes. When casting on vinyl, always put parchment paper beneath it. Otherwise, the vinyl will stick to your table.

17. Pour the black Isomalt. First, Chef Susan Notter cooks and pigments the Isomalt. Next, she adds a teaspoon of pearlescent powder and swirls it into the pot before pouring the Isomalt into the Noodle forms.

18. Add clear Isomalt for a special effect. Chef Notter pours a small amount of clear Isomalt into the forms. The clear Isomalt will enhance the metallic effect. At the same time, she lls the (back right) corner shape with clear Isomalt.

14 | February 2008 |

19. Pour the red Isomalt. Isomalt is cooked and pigmented red. Next, a teaspoon of white pearlescent powder is swirled into the pitcher. While pouring very slowly, Chef Notter completely covers the silicone shapes.

20. Unmold the Noodles. The Isomalt is allowed to cool for at least thirty minutes before the silicone Noodles are removed.

21. Remove the silicone shapes. Chef Notter carefully removes the silicone inserts.

22. Remove the embedded shapes. The red casting is ipped over to expose the encapsulated silicone inserts (see step 16). Chef Notter uses a scissor tip to help pry the shape out.

23. Peel the vinyl off the casting. Since the black casting is more delicate, Chef Notter pulls the vinyl downwards off the edge of the table. Pulling the vinyl down and away from the sugar is better than trying to pry it up off the vinyl.

24. Compose the sugar elements. When working with bold, geometric shapes, Chef Notter comments, Dont be overly fussy with extra decoration. Beautiful results can be had quickly when you keep your designs clean and simple.

Pastry Educaiton

25. Second composition. With the remaining elements from the pour, Chef Notter builds a second amenity. Once again, it is a simple, non-fussy design that creates a strong effect.

26. Result! Notice how Chef Notter placed a bright red sugar sphere to draw your eye to the front of the piece. Add a few trufes and the result is rst class. Look at that metallic effect when the light hits it!

27. Encore ! Two simple shapes + two simple colors = one VIP amenity ready to go! Thank you, Chef Notter for sharing your artistic skills. To learn more about casting, visit Tips & Tools at www.ChicagoMoldSchool.com.

www.pastrysbest.com | 15

INNOVATIVE DESSERTS
FROM ITALY
Tao risotto Two risottos prepared simultaneously with cuttlefish broth White whisked with extra-virgin olive oil with aged Pecorino cheese Black sepia toasted rice whisked with extra-virgin olive oil with Pecorino cheese Cuttlefish gelato cream milk skimmed milk powder glucose powder dextrose stabilizer salt roasted cuttlefish fresh cream g g g g g g g g 460 56 30 130 8 6 200 110

AUTHORS RISOTTO
Rice creams cuttlefish broth water rice starch sugar extra-virgin olive oil g g g g g 500 350 130 30 100

In order to obtain the 4 different creams to decorate the plate, add, to taste, saffron, basil, liquorice and tomato. RISOTTO
A traditional Italian dish which can be prepared with a suitable variety of rice such as Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano. It is one of the most common ways of cooking rice in Italy. It is first cooked briefly in butter or olive oil until evenly coated and the rice starts to turn translucent, before the broth is added, one ladle at a time.

Warm the milk with the dextrose, the glucose and the cream milk. Let it thicken on the heat, then add the roasted cuttlefish. Mix well and let it cool. Add the fresh cream and cream it. * For the sepia gelato, add 6 g of fresh cuttlefish ink.
sepia (cuttlefish ink) black risotto

extra-virgin oil white risotto liquorice rice cream cuttle fish gelato tomato rice cream black sepia gelato basil rice cream

Magazine Excerpt

roasted cuttlefish

saffron rice cream

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
www.pastrysbest.com | 17

GIROTONNO
tuna fish mood
Candied tuna fish Salted tuna fish candied in olive oil at 43C for 8 minutes. Smoked tuna fish Filet tuna fish marinated in salt and sugar for 12 hours, flavoured with smoked aromatic herbs for 40 minutes. Tuna fish tartar* Natural fresh tuna fish finely minced and seasoned with extra-virgin olive oil and red orange juice. * Finely chopped raw meat or fish, optionally with seasonings and sauces. Bottarga gelato water skimmed milk powder glucose powder dextrose stabilizer salt oil tuna fish bottarga* g g g g g g g g 560 110 60 140 8 8 80 40 Warm the milk and add sugar and salt. Dissolve the glucose in water and some milk, and incorporate to the first batter, still on the heat, and keep stirring. Let it cool and add the tuna fish bottarga, the cream, the dextrose, the stabilizer and the oil, then cream. *Salted product treasured in Sardinia and Sicily, sometimes called poor mans caviar. Sea granita microfiltered sea water water sugar gelatine g g g g 120 5 5 2

Soften the gelatine in cold water for 15 minutes, then dissolve it in hot sea water; add the sugar let it cool and put in the freezer.
These two recipes are from the Buontalenti Gold Trophy 2007 chef Luca Landi www.greenparkresort.com gelatomaker Mauro Petrini www.gelato.it

at the Coupe du Monde de la Ptisserie 2007

JESSICA
chocolate entremet
Gianduja nougatine Hazelnut crunchy mass potato flour hazelnut powder 30B sugar syrup water g g g g 50 150 200 30

THE ITALIAN ENTREMET

Magazine Excerpt

hazelnut pralin 40% Jivara chocolate hazelnut crunchy mass fleur de sel salt

g g g g

200 150 240 2

Mix all the ingredients and spread them 4 mm thick on a Silpat. Bake in the oven at 160C for 15-20 minutes; let it cool, then crumble. Jivara chocolate cremeux milk cream yolks sugar 40% Jivara chocolate g g g g g 400 300 150 50 45

Melt the chocolate at 45C; add all the other ingredients and mix; add salt and melt. Spread the crunchy mass 5 mm thick to obtain 14 and 16 cm diameter disks. Put them in rings of the same diameter, 4 cm high, lined with acetate.

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
18 | February 2008 |

Bring milk and cream to the boil; whip the yolks with sugar; add the boiling liquids and cook at 82C. Add the gelatine and pour onto the melted chocolate, obtaining an emulsion, using a mixer. Pour 140 g of cremeux into the 14 cm diameter ring, and 160 g into the 16 cm ring. Blast chill. Chocolate biscuit yolks sugar invert sugar egg whites sugar dehydrated egg whites flour starch Xocoice 84%* cocoa warm milk g g g g g g g g g g g 300 160 40 375 120 2 70 50 180 20 180

Whip the yolks with 160 g of sugar and invert sugar; sieve the flour and the starch, and warm the milk up. Whip the egg whites with 120 g of sugar. Emulsify the milk with Xocoice and cocoa; lighten with some egg whites. Add the remaining egg whites to the yolks, then the flour and the light mass. With the help of a scraper spread on a Silpat and bake in the oven at 220-230C (steam intake valve off) for 7-8 minutes. Take the biscuit out from the oven and cool. Make two disks of 14 cm and 16 cm diameter, put them on the cremeux and blast chill. *Xocoice 84% Valrhona is a chocolate powder with a low content of cocoa butter, ideal for gelato. Mango and passion fruit mou caramel sugar cream butter mango pure passion fruit juice vanilla water gelatine g g g g g no. g g 210 75 75 100 50 1 30 5

Tiramis cream Mascarpone cheese milk sugar yolks espresso coffee g g g g g 600 100 75 60 15

Pasteurize the yolks with sugar up to 65C; add the coffee and pour the mixture onto the Mascarpone cheese and add the milk; work in a planetary mixer. Pour 200 g of the cream into the ring of 14 cm of diameter and 240 g into the ring of 16 cm. Finish with the biscuit and blast chill. Guanaja chocolate mousse milk yolks sugar 70% Guanaja chocolate whipped cream g g g g g 400 250 150 600 1000

Cook up to 104C. Caramelize the sugar, add the cream and the butter, then the fruits. Cook again up to 105C; add the gelatine and strain. Mix dipping and pour 110 g into the ring of 14 cm of diamter and 130 g into the ring of 16 cm. Blast chill.

chocolate icing chocolate biscuit Guanaja chocolate mousse gianduja nougatine tiramisu cream mango mou caramel and passion fruit Jivara chocolate cremeux

Bring the milk to boil, whip the yolks with the sugar; pour the boiling milk and cook at 82C; pour onto the melted chocolate, creating the emulsion. When the mixture reaches 45C add the whipped cream. Prepare two rings of 16 cm and two of 14 cm of diameter. Remove from the previous rings and put the fillings in the centre, pour the chocolate mousse and blast chill.
Angelo Di Masso www.deliziepandellorso.com Fabrizio Donatone www.fabriziodonatone.com Fabrizio Galla www.fabriziogalla.it

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
www.pastrysbest.com | 19

Magazine Excerpt

All you need to know about the Italian state-of-the-art in English 2 issues a year
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PLATED DESSERTS WITH GELATO SAVOURY BITES CHOCOLATE FANTASY ITALIAN TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

Poste Italiane S.p.A. - Spedizione in Abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB To N. 9/2007

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Hot Chocolate
Recipe created by James W. Mullaney

Recipe yieild: 25 80 ml servings

(Makes 25 mini-muffin Flexipans. Bake in a water bath) 70 ml Heavy cream 284 g Butter 170 g Sugar, granulated 142 g Couverture, 65 % 50 g Cocoa powder 2 Vanilla bean, scraped 4 Whole eggs Boil the butter, cream and sugar. Pour over the couverture, vanilla bean and cocoa powder, mix well. Add the eggs. Pour into Flexipans, fill halfway. Bake: 250 F (120 C) for 20-25 minutes. HOt ChOcOlatE 454 g Milk 145 g Cocoa powder 510 ml Sugar, granulated 910 ml Heavy cream 2 Vanilla bean Combine the cocoa powder and milk, mix well, no lumps. Place the sugar, cream and scraped vanilla beans into a sauce pot and bring to a scald. Add the cocoa powder/milk mixture, bring back to a scald.

FlOurlEss ChOcOlatE CakE

CrEam ChEEsE POunD CakE CrOutOns 340 g Butter 225 g Cream cheese 454 g Sugar, granulated 8 g Baking Powder 15 g Vanilla extract 8 g Sea salt 6 Egg yolks 340 g Cake flour 6 Egg whites Mix the butter, cream cheese, sugar, baking powder, vanilla extract and sea salt until creamed. Add the yolks in stages, scrape after each addition. Sift the flour and add to the mixture. Mix well. Whip the whites to a meringue, fold in. Spread, bake, cool, cut into small consistent cubes. Toast to a crunchy crouton. Assembly Place small linen napkins on a long rectangular plate. Place the croutons into a ramekin on the left side of the plate. Place a ramekin of sweetened whipped cream on the right side of the plate. On the far right, place a ramekin of fresh raspberries garnished with shredded gold leaf. Place a disc of the flourless chocolate cake into the bottom of a coffee cup, pour the hot chocolate over the cake and serve immediately.

James W. Mullaney is the Executive Pastry Chef at The Cloister at Sea Island in Georgia. He is also winner of the 2005 National Pastry Championship.
Photos courtesy of James W. Mullaney

Chef Recipe
www.pastrysbest.com | 21

1 Cranberry Meringue
Recipe created by Teddy Cadars
Recipe yield: Two cakes

cranberry en coulis:

Biscuit SachEr

Cranberry Three Ways

M elt 80 g of 72% dark couverture with 105 g of butter and whisk until smooth. Fold in 120 g of egg whites that have been beaten with 65g of sugar, then add 130g of egg yolks. L ightly fold in a sifted mixture of 20 g of cocoa powder, 50 g of powdered sugar and 25 g of flour. S pread in 2 frames 23 x 3 s 1 , bake in a 335 F (170 C) degree oven for about 10 minutes. CranbErry COulis Bring 280 g of cranberry pure to a boil with 200 g of pear pure and 150 g of sugar, adding 100g of cornstarch dissolved in 25g of water (photo #1). Bring the mixture to a boil again and add 60 g of cocoa butter, whisk until smooth and pour it immediately over a
22 | February 2008 |

pistachio dacquoise in a frame 23 x 3 x 1 ; freeze. LimE MEringuE B ring 150 g of sugar with 120 g of water to 250 F (120 C). Pour onto 75 g egg whites that have been beaten with the zest of half a lime, beat until cool; use immediately. OrangE ChOcOlatE CrEam P repare a pastry cream made with 120 g of orange pure with chocolate and orange zests, 20 g of egg yolk, 30 g of sugar and 10 g of flan cream powder. O ff the heat, add 8 leaves of gelatin soaked and drained (20 g); cool. F old in 500 g of whipped cream and 90 g of Italian meringue; use immediately.

ASSEMBLY I n a 23 x 3 x 1 frame, place a layer of biscuit sacher, then a layer of orange chocolate cream (photo #2), then a pistachio dacquoise and then the cranberry coulis (photo #3). Continue filling the frame with the orange chocolate cream, finishing with a biscuit sacher; chill. Finishing anD PrEsEntatiOn Remove the frame and cover the cake with the lime meringue, combing in a design and caramelizing with a torch. Decorate with dried cranberries, chocolate decorations and gold leaf.

candied cranberry:
Recipe created by Teddy Cadars

Cranberry Macaroon
Recipe yield: For about 12 persons

MacarOOn

In a food processor, finely grind 250 g of almond powder with 250 g of powdered sugar, adding red food coloring and 95 g of egg whites. B ring 250 g of sugar to 250 F (120 C) with 85 g of water. Pour over 95 g of beaten egg whites and continue to beat until cold then fold in the first mixture. Pipe oval shaped meringues, bake about 7 minutes in a 375 F (190 C) oven, then for 7 minutes in a 340 F (170 C) oven. CanDiED CranbErriEs Bring the following ingredients to a boil: 100 g of lemon juice, 300 g orange juice, 100 g cranberry nectar, 1 vanilla bean split and scraped, 2 cinnamon sticks, 5 g fresh ginger, the zest of half a lemon, 30 g of piloncillo (brown Mexican sugar) and 400 g sugar (photo #1).

Add 130 g of frozen cranberries and bring to a boil for about 10 minutes, then cover with plastic wrap and let cool about 12 hours and drain. Add 85 g of sugar to the syrup, bring to a boil, add the cranberries and cook about 3 minutes; cool. Repeat this operation again with another 85 g of sugar.

ASSEMBLY On a macaroon base, spread a thin layer of dark chocolate cream, cover with thin slices of mango, then pipe over them with the chocolate cream in a pastry bag with plain tip #7 (photo #3). Sprinkle with candied cranberries, top with a second macaroon. Finishing anD PrEsEntatiOn Brush the mango with a neutral glaze and decorated with gold leaf.

Cranberry Three Ways

Dark ChOcOlatE CrEam

P repare a crme anglaise with 100 g of cranberry nectar, 150 g of cream, 3 egg yolks and 50 g of sugar. Pour (photo #2) over 340 g of 72% dark chocolate, whisk to blend and after cooling fold in 450 g of whipped cream and 60 g of candied cranberries. S et aside, covered with plastic wrap in contact with the surface.

www.pastrysbest.com | 23

3 Chocolate Cranberry Bar

Recipe created by Teddy Cadars
Recipe yield: About 86 pieces

cranberry in ganache:

CranbErry GanachE

M ake a light dry caramel with 50 g brown sugar, 150 g white sugar, 65 g of honey and 1 vanilla bean split and scraped, deglazing with 320 g of hot cream and 130 g of butter (photo #1). Pour over 250 g of milk chocolate and 780 g of dark chocolate, whisk to blend. Add 350 g of cranberry pure, whisk again. With a rubber spatula, fold in 10 g of dried chopped cranberries (photo #2), whisk until smooth; chill. DriED CranbErriEs Coarsely chop fresh cranberries and then dry them on parchment paper in the oven for about 30 minutes at 200 F (90 C). ASSEMBLY Place a frame (13 x 13 x ) over a plastic guitar sheet that has been spread with a thin layer of dark chocolate. Cover with the cranberry ganache and let crystallize for about 12 hours. Finishing anD PrEsEntatiOn With the aid of a guitar, cut 3 x 1 rectangles and enrobe them with milk chocolate (photo #3) then marble them with white and red cocoa butter. Spray with white and red glitter (P.C.B. Creation).
We would like to thank the Cranberry Marketing Committee and the Sicoly, Silvarem and Alpes Jus companies for their helpful collaboration.

Cranberry Three Ways

24 | February 2008 |

Partner Recipe
www.pastrysbest.com | 25

26 | February 2008 |

Partner Recipe
www.pastrysbest.com | 27

Awarded Meilleur Ouvrier de France ptissier (Best pastry maker in France) in 2000, Stphane Glacier is an independent pastry consultant and author of a Meilleurs Ouvriers de France number of books (available through

Stphane GLACIER Gatan PARIS

Awarded Meilleur Ouvrier de France ptissier (Best pastry maker in France) in 2000, Stphane Glacier is an independent pastry consultant and author of a number of books, including this excerpt from his most recent Verrines et Petits-Gateaux available at. www.stephaneglacier.com

French and English text

www.pastrysbest.com | 27 29

Tropical Verrines Tropical Verrines

Verrine desdes Tropiques Verrine Tropiques

Crme coco Crme coco
Coconut cream Coconut cream

Dacquoise coco Dacquoise coco

Coconut Dacquoise Coconut Dacquoise

Coulis glifi mangue Coulis glifi passion mangue passion

Jellyfied mango & passion fruit Jellyfied mango & pure passion fruit pure

Boucle chocolat,Boucle chocolat, fruits rouges, menthe fruits rouges, menthe Chocolate curl, red fruit, curl, red fruit, Chocolate mint leaf mint leaf

Coulis gelifi Coulis gelifi mangue passionmangue passion Jellyfied mango and passion Jellyfied mango and passion fruit pure fruit pure Crme coco Crme coco Coconut cream Coconut cream Coulis gelifi Coulis gelifi mangue passionmangue passion Jellyfied mango and Jellyfied mango and passion fruit pure passion fruit pure

Recipe Book Excerpt

Dacquoise coco Dacquoise coco Coconut Dacquoise Coconut Dacquoise Crme coco Crme coco Coconut cream Coconut cream

64 l Les Verrines 64 l Les Verrines

30 | February 2008 |

29 www.pastrysbest.com | 31

Petit Antoine Le PetitLe Antoine

Le Petit Antoine Le Petit Antoine

Croustillant Croustillant pralin pralin Dacquoise Dacquoise noisette noisette
Hazelnut Dacquoise Hazelnut Dacquoise Praline croustillant (crispy praline) Praline croustillant (crispy praline)

CrmeuxCrmeux chocolat chocolat

Chocolate cream Chocolate cream

chocolat lait PlaquettePlaquette chocolat lait

Milk chocolate block Milk chocolate block

chocolat lait Chantilly Chantilly chocolat lait

Milk chocolate Chantilly Milk chocolate Chantilly

Rosace de chantilly, Rosace de chantilly, fil dor chocolat, feuille dor fil chocolat, feuille Chantilly swirl, Chantilly swirl, chocolate ribbon, chocolate gold leaf ribbon, gold leaf Chantilly Chantilly chocolat au lait chocolat au lait Milk chocolate chantilly Milk chocolate chantilly Couverture chocolat lait Couverture chocolat lait Milk chocolate couverture Milk chocolate couverture Crmeux chocolat Crmeux chocolat Chocolate cream Chocolate cream Dacquoise noisette Dacquoise noisette Hazelnut Dacquoise Hazelnut Dacquoise Croustillant praline Croustillant praline Praline croustillant Praline croustillant

Recipe Book Excerpt

118 l Les Petits-Gteaux Contemporains 118 l Les Petits-Gteaux Contemporains

32 | February 2008 |

www.pastrysbest.com 31| 33

400 g 150 g

35% fat whipped cream Meringue

Boil the milk and cream, then pour onto the egg whites. Incorporate into the chocolates, heated to 50C. Blitz in a food processor. Mix the ganache into the whipped cream. Pour the mixture into the meringue and mix delicately. Spread into two 1000g moulds. Light pOppy crEam Crme ptissire 293 g Full cream milk 88 g 35% fat cream 2 g Vanilla pod 29 g Caster sugar 2 g Crme ptissire stabiliser 59 g Egg yolks 24 g Powdered cream 2 g 150 Bloom powdered gelatine 12 g Water Boil the milk, cream and vanilla with the previously mixed sugar and stabiliser. Blanch the egg yolks with the sugar and powdered cream. Loosen the mixture with the hot milk, then pour into a saucepan. Cook the mixture until it begins to bubble. Fold in the previously hydrated and heated gelatine. Cover with cling film and leave to cool on a very cold baking sheet. 75 488 53 150 12 g g g g g Meringue Crme ptissire Nemours poppy aroma 35% fat whipped cream Water

COQUELICOT
(Chocolate and Griottines dessert with poppy cream) Recipe created by Olivier Bajard
World Champion in the Art of Dessert, MOF in Ptisserie
ChOcOlatE ptE sablE 88 g Softened butter 32 g Icing sugar 1 g Fine salt 70 g Fine flour (type 55) 10 g 10% fat cocoa powder Beat together the butter, icing sugar and salt. Fold in the flour and cocoa powder, previously sifted together, and mix. Roll out the dough to 0.3cm. Bake at 150C for 20 minutes. Seal with mycryo cocoa butter. Whisk the eggs, yolks and sugars to a ribbon consistency. Beat the egg whites with the sugar, salt and powdered egg whites to soft peaks. Fold in the flour and cocoa powder, previously sifted together, into A. Incorporate the butter and cocoa paste heated to 50C into A + B. Incorporate half the meringue into A + B + C. Mix the preparation into the second half of the meringue. Pour into a dessert ring. Cook in a pulse oven at 155C for 25 minutes. Once cold, cut into two 0.7cm thick slices. MEringuE fOr thE mOussEs 84 g Caster sugar 141 g Beaten egg whites Beat the egg whites to soft peaks with the sugar.

Whisk the chilled cream until thickened. Whip until frothy. Add the flavouring at the end. Fold the crme ptissire into the whipped cream. Add the cold meringue. Put 1500g mixture into each mould. ChOcOlatE Icing 125 g 70% Tannea couverture 38 g Sambirano cocoa paste 100 g Unsweetened concentrated semi-skimmed milk 10 g Sorbitol crystal E42 15 g Crystal dextrose 175 g 35% fat cream 25 g Butter Heat the milk and sugars. Melt the couvertures to 50C. Incorporate the hot milk and the cream at room temperature into the couvertures, then blitz in a food processor.Ice the dessert at 27 - 30C. Assembly
Ganache glaze sprayed with a pistolet Chocolate mousse Chocolate sponge Fresh strawberry coulis Poppy cream and Griottines Chocolate sponge Chocolate pte sable

ChOcOlatE spOngE
100 50 25 25 50 25 25 25 125 2 63 2 g g g g g g g g g g g g

Chef Recipe

Egg whites Whole eggs Invert sugar (trimoline) Caster sugar Fine flour (type 55) 10% fat cocoa powder Clarified butter Sambirano cocoa paste Beaten egg whites Powdered egg whites Caster sugar Fine salt

ChOcOlatE MOussE
100 50 120 150 75 g g g g g

Full cream milk 35% fat cream Egg yolks 70% couverture Cocoa paste

34 | February 2008 |

Ha ZElnut FEuillantinE
(makes 1 100 g 185 g 185 g 185 g 35 g 35 g

60 x 40 cm sheet) Milk chocolate couverture Almond/hazelnut pralin Hazelnut paste Pailletine Caramelised hazelnuts, chopped Butter

Melt the couverture. Mix the pralin and hazelnut paste. Delicately mix the pailletine and hazelnuts. Spread on to 2 sheets of greaseproof paper. Chill in the freezer. Cut into discs the same diameter as the glasses. HaZElnut crEam 25 g Milk couverture 100 g Almond/hazelnut pralin 50 g Hazelnut paste 125 g Whipped cream Melt the couverture and fold in the pralin and hazelnut cream. Delicately mix in the whipped cream. LEmOn crEam 60 g Lemon juice 50 g Sugar 50 g Eggs 37 g Egg yolks 5 g Butter grated zest of lemon In a bain-marie, heat together the lemon juice, zest, sugar, whole eggs and yolks. Cook, whisking, to 85 C, then pass through a chinois. HaZElnut CrumblE 90 g Butter 100 g Flour 55 g Ground unskinned hazelnuts 45 g Icing sugar 2 g Salt Mix all the ingredients to a sandy consistency. Cook on Silpat at 150 C until blond all through. Garnish 350 g Griottines 200 g Caramelised hazelnuts Assembly Fill the glasses with hazelnut cream using a piping bag. Place a feuillantine disc on top. Scatter on some Griottines mixed with caramelised hazelnuts and top with another feuillantine disc. Pour on the lemon cream. Cover with hazelnut crumble. Decorate with Griottines Dcor (with their stalks).

ATTRACTION
Recipe created by Laurent Duchene, MOF in Ptisserie
Recipe yeild: 10 glasses

RECIPE REQUIREMENT

Griottines
Available from

From the largest processor of fruit in alcohol in the world, Les Grandes Distilleries Peureux, comes the Wild Cherry in Brandy called the Griottine.

Chef Recipe
www.pastrysbest.com | 35

770-252-6377 or www.pastrynet.com

36 | February 2008 |

Creative Requirements >

sources.
Your supplier of ingredients and equipment for the pastry shop.

solutions.
Your resource for ideas, recipes and education from the pastry industry.

service.
Call today to receive our new catalog!
Or visit www.pastrynet.com for our wide range of pastry ingredients and equipment you can purchase directly online!

Your partner working with you in a timely and professional manner.

Product & Service Guide

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www.pastrysbest.com | 37

Pistachio Crme Brule Verrine

Recipe created by Theodore Pary, Chef Owner, Pastry Star
Recipe yeild: 18 10 ounce serving dishes (3 to 3.5 oz of each gele and 5 oz. crme brule)

First LayEr (BOttOm) ApricOt GElE

1.5 225 36 50 kg g g g

Apricot pure Sugar Gelatin sheets (7) Lemon juice

Bloom gelatin by putting gelatin sheets in a bowl and fill with water to just cover them. Combine the apricot pure with the sugar in a pot and heat to dissolve the sugar. Once the sugar is completely dissolved remove from the heat. Squeeze excess water out of gelatin and place in heated pure, stir and let dissolve. Add lemon juice and pour into desired serving vessel. Let set until completely firm. SEcOnD LayEr (MiDDlE) Fruits Of thE FOrrEst BErry GElE 1.5 kg Juice from thawed and strained Fruits of the Forrest 225 g Sugar 36 g Gelatin sheets (7) 50 g Lemon Juice Bloom gelatin by putting gelatin sheets in a bowl and fill with water to just cover them. Combine the Berry Juice with the sugar in a pot and heat to dissolve the sugar. Once the sugar is completely dissolved remove from the heat. Squeeze excess water out of gelatin and place in heated juice, stir and let dissolve. Add lemon juice and let cool. Pour over apricot gele and let set until firm. ThirD LayEr (TOp) PistachiO CrmE BrulE 250 g Crme brule base 100 g Pastry cream base 1.5 kg Whole milk 460 g Heavy cream 350 g Pistachio paste Place the pastry cream base along with a small amount of the milk in a bowl and mix to make thick pancake consistency. Place the remaining dairy products in a pot with the pistachio paste and heat to a short boil. Pour the brule base mix into the heated dairy and mix while bringing back to another short boil. Let the mixture cool a bit and pour over the IQF Gele. Let stand for at least 3 hours to set up completely. Decorate with sugar.

Chef Recipe

PastryStar Ingredients used: Apricot Pure (PS04329) Fruits of the Forest (PS05249) Gelatin Sheets (PS00214) Crme Brule (PS00120) Pastry Cream Supreme (PS00106) Pistachio Paste (PS30045)

38 | February 2008 |

Boston Cream Cake

Recipe created by Theodore Pary, Chef Owner, Pastry Star
SPONGE CAKE
1.5 kg Vanilla sponge cake base 900 g Whole eggs (room temperature) 480 g Warm water Pour all ingredients into a mixing bowl fitted with a whip and mix on high speed for 8 minutes. Pour mixture into a sheet pan. Be sure to level the top with a straight edge utensil to achieve evenness and let stand 15 minutes before baking. Bake 4 to 8 minutes at 400 F (205 C), watching the cake bake and testing it for springiness. When touching the cake it should feel firm and bounce back to shape. Once cake has cooled, cut circles using a cake ring of desired size. JOcOnDE CakE 580 g Joconde sponge base 300 g Whole eggs 160 g Water 80 g Butter (melted) In a mixing bowl fitted with a whip, combine Joconde Sponge Base, eggs and water for 8 minutes on high speed. Turn mixer to slow speed and slowly add melted butter. Let stand for 15 minutes before baking. JOcOnDE DEcOratiOn 100 g Butter (room temperature) 100 g Powdered sugar 100 g Egg whites (room temperature) 100 g Flour In a mixing bowl fitted with a paddle, mix butter and powdered sugar at low speed and without incorporating air. Then mix in whites until fully incorporated. Finally add flour. When coloring or adding cocoa powder, you should add it at this point. Once all of the ingredients are mixed together, spread evenly on a Silpat and drag design comb through. Let stand in freezer until firm.Once firm, cover with joconde mix, spreading very evenly. Let stand for 15 minutes before baking. Bake at 400 F (205 C) for 6 to 10 minutes, watching it carefully. BOstOn CrEam Filling 360 g Crme supreme base 800 g Water (cold) 200 g Heavy cream 200 g Whipped heavy cream 85 g Powdered sugar 30 g Insta-gel 10 g Rum flavor Make the pastry cream by mixing the Crme Supreme base with the water and heavy cream. Whisk for 3 minutes at high speed until shiny and smooth. Mix the powdered sugar with the Insta-gel, set aside. Whip heavy cream to soft peak and pour in powdered sugar, Insta-gel mix just before cream is to soft peak. Fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream mix and add rum flavor. Assembly 1. Assemble cake by placing the cake ring on a cake board and lining the cake ring with plastic confectioners ribbon so the cake will not stick. 2. Line the decorated joconde strip, cutting a little long in case of shrinkage. 3. Place one layer of cake at the bottom of the ring and then cover with a thick layer of the rum pastry cream mix, leaving enough room for one more cake layer. 4. Place second cake layer on top and cover with chocolate glaze or PastryStar Shokoshine. 5. Heat Shokoshine and very quickly pour a small amount onto the cake and quickly spread over entire cake. (Note: the Shokoshine sets up very fast so it is important to work quickly.)

Chef Recipe

PastryStar Ingredients used: Joconde Cake Base (PS00252) Sponge Cake Base (PS00250) Pastry Cream Base (PS00101) Rum Flavor (PS00071) Shoko-shine Glaze (PS10907)

www.pastrysbest.com | 39

KUGELHOPF
by Mitch Stamm
Using traditional ingredients and processes forged with modern technology,it is rewarding to link the past to the present while looking to the future. It is fulfilling to study the history and cultural lore that surround these products, but when the written and oral histories collide, it can be even more exciting. The dialogue that ensues is motivating, stimulating, and even entertaining to baking enthusiasts.

raditional breads and pastries satisfy and soothe the soul on many levels. If all goes well, the baked goods look, smell, feel, and taste great. However, beneath the veneer of sensorial perception, there is another level of satisfaction reserved for appreciative and discriminating consumers as well as artisan bakers.

Shrouded Origins

Mitch Stamm is an instructor at Johnson & Wales University in the College of Culinary Arts at the International Baking and pastry Institute where he specialized in artisan breads and pastry. In addition, he teaches plated desserts and baking formula and technology. He frequently provides consulting and training to restaurants and hotels.
Photos courtesy of Mitch Stamm

Take Kugelhopf. Or is it kugelhupf, kougelhopf, kouglof, gugelhopf, gugelhupf, gouglehopf, or cougelhof? There are as many spellings as there are stories surrounding the origin of this popular cake. And even more recipes. Germany, Hungary, Switzerland, France, Austria, and Poland have fables, lore, and traditions surrounding kugelhopf. It is so popular in some regions that there are kougelhopf festivals with amateur and professional competitions to determine the best in the land. The only point of agreement seems to be the fluted molds, called Turks heads and/or turbans, in which they are baked. Some say that the molds resemble the turbans worn by the Turkish invaders of Austria. The cake was created to commemorate the victory by the Austrians after the bakers awakened the sleeping city and the attack was successfully repelled. Wait a minute; weve heard the same story for years about the origin of the croissant; that it derived its shape from the crescent on the Turkish flag after the bakers sounded the same alarm. These vagaries and inconsistencies have fueled the debate waged among bakers working (fittingly) all night. Another, more plausible theory is that the mold resembles the headdresses worn by the women of Eastern Europe. The molds are frequently given for wedding presents. They become heirlooms and are passed down from generation to generation.

A Versatile Product

Kugelhopf is neither as rich nor as sweet as most brioche recipes. It is prized for its slightly drier crumb and subtle, complex flavor which make the cake perfect for dipping in coffee or toasting and serving with butter and jam. Often considered as a breakfast pastry, it is also ideal for high tea service. Individual, miniature kugelhopfs enhance petit fours selections and make excellent mignardises. Stale, its perfect for French toast, bread pudding, or grilled Nutella and banana sandwiches. The possibilities are endless. There has

40 | February 2008 |

been a trend in recent years to offer savory kugelhopf. Pierre Herm has made kugelhopf with onion, walnut, and bacon. Again, the possibilities are limited only by the bakers imagination. A miniature savory kugelhopf is perfect for and amuse bouche.

Making Kugelhopf

development and a good bake are critical to prevent collapsing of the finished product. Another means of achieving dough strength is the use of an overnight preferment. The build up of organic acids provides the necessary strength to the dough and improves flavor and shelf life.

Fortunately, the fabrication of kugelhopf is not as contentious as its history. Typically, it is leavened with yeast, enriched with butter and egg yolk, sweetened with sugar, and enhanced with citrus and dried fruit. As with other members of the brioche family tree, no special equipment is required to produce kugelhopf. It mixes beautifully on a spiral mixer; however, excellent results can be achieved with a vertical mixer fitted with a dough hook. Enriched dough mixing methodology requires intensive mixing due to the large amount of sugar and butter incorporated, both of which inhibit gluten development. With its tall and contorted shape, gluten

A Curious Display

Kugelhopf is a marketing dream. Its distinctive shape lends itself well to display and stimulates curiosity. Savvy entrepreneurs line their shelves with extra and/ or old to create excitement and awareness. Hotels and restaurants can use a pyramid of kugelhopf as a prop for breakfast or dessert buffets. Unwrapped, a display lasts for weeks or months depending on the environment. Some would say that the stories surrounding the traditions and lore of kugelhopf draw battle lines, creating and perpetuating boundaries. I would say that the opposite is true. It erases the lines and blurs boundaries for those who embrace the product and the dialogue.

Bread Traning
www.pastrysbest.com | 41 41

Kugelhopf
SPONGE
470 293 2 g g g Bread flour Cold milk Instant active yeast In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix all ingredients on 1st speed to clean-up. Place the dough in a covered container and ferment overnight. Final DOugh 1166 g Bread flour 348 g Milk 320 g Sugar 300 g Egg yolk 35 g Vanilla extract 32 g Instant active yeast* 23 g Salt 600 g Unsalted butter 5 ea Lemon zest 4 ea Vanilla bean 550 g Golden raisins 765 g Preferment In a spiral mixer, mix the milk, egg yolk, vanilla extract, yeast, preferment, salt, sugar, and yeast on low speed to clean up, approximately four minutes. Mix on second speed for 4 minutes. Add half of the butter, half of the lemon zest, and half of the vanilla bean. Mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Mix on high speed for 2 minutes. Add the remaining butter, zest, and vanilla bean. Mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Mix on high speed for 2 minutes. Evaluate dough development using the window pane test. If unable to pull a window, continue mixing on high speed until the dough can be stretched to reveal a thin membrane. Incorporate the golden raisins on low speed. The desired dough temperature is 75 - 78 F (about 24 C). Place the dough in an oiled and covered container for 2 hours punctuated by a stretch ad fold after 1 hour. Divide into units of 700 g each. Pre-shape into a tight ball and cover. Allow 20 minutes for the dough to relax. Make a hole in the center of the ball and place the dough seam side up in the prepared pans. Note: Use softened (not melted) butter and sliced almonds to coat the bottom and sides of the pans. Proof in a moist, enclosed, 75 -78 F (24 C) environment until the dough rises to the top of the pan. Bake in a 335 F (168 C) oven until the cake is golden brown, approximately 30 minutes. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Invert to unmold.

Bread Training
42 | February 2008 |

Presented by the

Pastry Seminar
March 30 April 1 2008

2008
www.pastryprofessionalsmn.com presents

Partner Information

March 30 - April 1, 2008

The Pastry Professionals Association is proud to provide an educational experience with instructors that are known for their expertise in the field so chefs can receive the additional training they want. Pastry Seminar 2008 will be held Sunday, March 30 through Tuesday, April 1, 8AM to 5 PM at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, Mendota Heights, MN. Each days schedule includes two - 4 hour classes with optional evening demonstrations.

CHOOSE FROM:
Color & Chocolate by Susan Notter Flavor Composition of Desserts by Anil Rohira The Art of Air Brushing while using Casted Molds by Stephane Treand Creating Unique Confections by Andrew Shotts Brazilian Recipes & Ingredients by Flavio Fedrico Creating Desserts for the Buffet Table by Marshall Rosenthdal Business Coaching by John OMalley Setting a Beautiful Dessert Buffet by Keith Hanson Working with Sugar & Pastillage by Ewald Notter Sculpted Cakes by Bronwen Weber

www.pastryprofessionalsmn.com Partner Information

For more information, visit our website at

www.pastrysbest.com | 43

Paris Nord Villepinte Exhibition Center - France

March 29th - April 2nd 2008

Note To Our Readers

Pastrys Best is a growing magazine, and were constantly attempting to improve ourselves with the help of the pastry community. We would like to grow

Exhibition Bakery, Pastry, Ice-cream

Share your
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to a bi-monthly publication, but to do so we desire your feedback whether positive or negative in order to develop into a resource even more valuable to you. We all need a common ground and platform in which to voice our creativity, experiences, innovations and talent. We believe Pastrys Best is poised to do just that with your help! So drop us a line and let us know how we can best serve you and the industry. Happy Designs!

Darryl Lilly Publications Manager darryl@pastrysbest.com

with

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in the World? How in How the World?

By Michael Joy and Beatrice Schneider By Michael Joy and Beatrice Schneider With competitions showcasing more and more amazing feats of artistry that push the boundaries of the pastry medium, we often get asked, How in the world did they do that? In the previous issue, we featured sugar casting techniques used by Pastry Chef Anthony Chavez at the Paris Gourmet Pastry Chef of the Year competition. Since many readers of Pastrys Best Magazine participate in culinary competitions, we thought it a good idea to further explain the sculpting and mold making processes used to help create Chef Anthonys translucent jaguar effect. Heres how we did it.

1. Chef Anthony selects an image of the jaguar he wants translated into sugar.

2. A drawing is made to verify proportion, size, level of surface detail and image orientation.

3. Using the drawing as a blueprint, a clay model is hand sculpted. At this point, any alterations requested by the chef are made.

How In The World?

4. From the (blue) clay model, a negative silicone mold is made. Please note: The camera ash creates a positive illusion in the negative mold.

5. To make a positive shape, the mold is prepared with release agent and is lled with silicone. The result is a silicone copy of the clay model.

6. To cast, Chef Anthony pours clear sugar over the silicone jaguar. After it cools, he peels the exible jaguar shape out of the sugar.

www.pastrysbest.com | 45

Happy New Year!

Executive Pastry Chef Randy Sebastien and his assistant Franck Sauvat from the Rio Suite and Hotel Casino filled one of their 15,000 square foot ballrooms with a multitude of custom designed desserts. With several months of planning and an additional three days to bring the massive room to a chocolate friendly temperature, Chef Randys team began to set up on the day after Christmas and worked non-stop through New Years Eve. Four hundred and fifty work hours later, 2200 guests were treated to this delectable delight. Nice work team Rio!

Photos and information spotted by Michael Joy.

46 | February 2008 |

The W ildCherry on Top

From the largest processor of fruit in alcohol in the world, Les Grandes Distilleries Peureux, comes the Wild Cherry in Brandy called the Griottine.

Imported in the United States by

www.pastrynet.com 770-252-6377