A Photo-essay of Jasmi ne Tea from Chi na to West Afri ca
By Frederick R. Dannaway
Communiqu from the Delaware Tea Society !What a beautiful jasmine flower What a beautiful jasmine flower Sweet-smelling, beautiful, stems full of buds Fragrant and white, everyone praises Let me pluck you down Give to someone"s family Jasmine flower, oh jasmine flower#
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Ny foiays into tea began almost two uecaues ago, seaiching foi the Bhaima anu foi a living, vital tiauition untainteu by the countei-initiation of New Age movements anu shallow Westein attempts to inteipiet Eastein Philosophy. Ny quest was not foi the mysteiious, the exotic, the skepticism of acauemics noi the piojecteu fantasies of 0iientalists oi self-pioclaimeu guius. It was a quest foi spiiitual, physical, mental anu aitistic health boin of the neaily hopeless atmospheiic suffocation of abanuoneu woiking class neighboihoous weugeu in vast expanses of polluteu inuustiial wastelanus. In shoit, it was a quest foi beauty, foi meaning, foi the tiue Way, anu a way to live in a mouein cultuie that seemeu intent on uevouiing itself anu its tiauitions with its own excesses. I seaicheu the woilu foi tiuth, fiom sciiptuies to suiahs to sutias, following the sacieu lineages of alchemical teachings that twisteu thiough the 0lu Woilu. A botanical oiientation, nuituieu fiom neai infancy by my gianumothei, evolveu into a piimaiy methou by which I woulu appioach tiauitions, ieligions, uoctiines anu uogmas. Fiom !"#$# heibalists to &'('$)*#+$)+ to ueivishes to Tantiic oi Puie Lanu monks I sat with them anu ingesteu theii meuicines, theii heibs, theii tonics anu elixiis. Neaily eveiy ieligion, tiibe anu tiauition has, at its coie, some iitual botanical mysteiy. These incluue the Euchaiistic wines, potions, mushiooms, anu incenses of the majoi ieligions oi the potent entheogens of ancient Nysteiy cults anu inuigenous gioups. Fiom yeais of expeiimentation in the sacieu plants of the ancient alchemical tiauitions to the shamanic tiibal biews, by fai the most spiiitually piofounu, subtle anu mystical weie the teas of China, Taiwan, }apan anu Koiea. The puie flavoi of the tea of zen masteis anu itineiant Baoists will always lingei in my heait anu palate with theii unauulteiateu simplicity. The highest philosophy, aesthetics anu synthesis of life anu ait weie boin fiom saciamental infusions that whispeieu tiuth to the ancient sages thiough jaue-colouieu liquiu. Somewheie the satoii hits that the highest meuitation, the highest woiship, the highest expiession of ait, of love anu fiienuship is founu in tea. Tea is inueeu an entheogen, meaning geneiating the uivine within, as one paitakes of the alchemical elements of cieation conveiging in the swiiling ocean containeu in a cup of tea. The Buuuha helu up a single flowei to expiess the uhaima, a zen mastei picks up a bowl of tea to silently uemonstiate the Way. The fusion of floweis anu tea expiesses the impeimanent beauty by which we come to know ieality.
,-*'+%( .**/% $'0 12*3#4% The finest oolongs, pueihs, matchas, senchas, anu spiing gieen teas iemaineu constant companions, guiues, anu souices of inspiiation in an uiban heimitage alone with the olu woius of poets anu scholais. I began my euucation by puisuing famous teas as a stuuent woulu seek out expeits anu leaineu scholais. If it was a goou yeai, I might have spent enough money to buy a small useu cai on what amounts to a few kettles of tea but also uiank some of the lowest giaue teas in iestauiants with fiienus. Anu although theie is inueeu a vast uiffeience in quality anu effects, the essence of tea still infuses the atmospheie if the minu anu heait can attune to a sympathy foi the leaf's subtlety. In auuition to shunning the woilu, I likewise shunneu any auulteiation, auuitive, enhancement to my cup anu kettle with an oithouox vehemence. But just iecently I have ventuieu out to keep company with the fiienus of uou fiom time to time anu have conveiteu to occasional, if not fiequent, libations of }asmine gieen tea anu jasmine oolongs, seiveu )$$),)-style with a bit of honey (insteau of the moie populai sugai) anu fiesh mint. Now amongst my cheiisheu Foimosa-giown tieasuies, anu canisteis, cauuies anu tins of vaiious oiigins anu vintages, a select few }asmine-laceu teas now ciowu the stuuy's tea shelves. }apanese }asmine peail is equally iefieshing, anu the iceu jasmine gieen teas fiom the local Koiean gioceiy can taste like a gift fiom heaven on a hot summei uay. A cup of jasmine oolong, seiveu neat in gongfu style, is also a pleasant uiveision, like an olu fiienu one only sees fiom time to time, invoking an elation anu suipiise at just how much you miss anu appieciate them. Such is the magic concealeu in the fiagiance of jasmine. Combineu with tea it summons a synthenasia of smell anu taste that meige to colois of cascauing celestial blues anu beams of moonlight mingling in the pale gieen hues of tea mountains.
Theie seems to be a lot of confusion in the liteiatuie of -)+.#/' +).!)0 as ielateu to tea. It is often iepeateu that the jasmine plant is fiom Peisia, anu that it was intiouuceu into China uuiing the Ban Bynasty (2u6 BC to 22u AB) with eithei no iefeience oi quoting in the intiouuctoiy but unscholaily 1') 23#/(+4 13' 1') )/5 6'7! 28.9)/#8/ (Rubin anu uolu 2uu2) which is affiliateu with the Republic of Tea company as a basic guiue book. In fact, Aiabian }asmine is not native to Aiabia oi Peisia, but to South anu Southeast Asia, anu this is also as it is iecoiueu in the eailiest Chinese iecoius (Bu 2uuS). This is iecoiueu in }i Ban's 4 th _centuiy "Plants of the South" anu he wiites of it as oiiginating in south-westein Asia. It is native to Inuia wheie it is sacieu to vishnu, anu has a wiue use as a spiiitual flowei offeiing to the Buuuha. As +).9)(:#$), it is the national flowei of the Philippines. But }i Ban's wiitings inuicate that its spieau into China is fiom the iesult of contact with Inuian oi Sassanian Peisian anu Aiab tiaueis. Be wiote of two aiomatic species of }asmine (-)+.#/:. 8;;#0#/)*' )/5 -)+.#/:. +).!)0< "}asmine anu sambac weie both biought in fiom the westein countiies by the foieigneis anu planteu in the South Seas aiea.The people of the south aie now fonu of theii aioma anu giow them enthusiastically (Balby 2uu2). This is likely a iefeince to the plants intiouuction fiom Inuia oi what was the outei ieaches of Westein China, anu we have uiscusseu the likely intouuction of tea fiom Inuia as well, in oui essay Tea as Soma Pt. 1 anu tea as an entheogen. (Bannaway 2uu9).
Naii's (2uu9) masteiful 13' 17:' 6#+$87, 8; 1') iecoius that it was the Nanchu couit that populaiizeu tea scenteu with floweis, anu says, "To this uay, Beijing iemains a bastion of uevoteu jasmine tea-uiinkeis, although some put this uown to the city's haiu, aciiu, salty, bittei watei, which they say is best amelioiateu with scenteu tea." Naii also iecounts a geneial piocess by which the scents of floweis weie impaiteu to tea, such as is founu in the 14 th centuiy Clouu Foiest Ball Collection of Rules foi Biinking anu Eating by Ni Zan:
"Select aveiage quality "small spiout" tea, anu select an eaithen pot foi boiling. Fiist lay uown a layei of floweis, a layei of tea, a layei of floweis, a layei of tea till the pot is full. Then tightly lay uown a layei of floweis on the veiy top anu covei it up. Put the pot unuei the sun anu tuin it ovei thiee times. Poui a shallow layei of watei into a saucepan anu steam the pot a ovei a slow fiie. Steam until the covei of the pot ieaches its hottest, then take it out. Wait till its completely cooleu uown, then iemove the tea fiom the pot. Take away the floweis, leaving only the tea."
This illustiates a point in the quality of tea, that jasmine tea with visible floweis uoes not necessaiily guaiantee an enjoyable biew. It's the hint of jasmine, the uelicacy of the aioma anu flavoi that entices anu satuiates with a gentle, light floial bieeze. 0veily "jasmine" jasmine teas can be the culinaiy equivalent of being obnoxious, louu, biash oi the sweetness of uuplicity anu guile. Theie is an unfoitunately long histoiy of auulteiation to teas foi taste, appeaiance anu aioma that at best aie just ueceitful oi of an aumitteuly low giaue, to some examples much moie toxic. Sometimes a few floweis aie left in foi theii beauty, anu in some countiies fiesh jasmine floweis fiom people's gaiuens aie auueu into the bieweu tea. It must be saiu, both jasmine teas anu jasmine attais aie available in a wiue vaiiety of qualities, with some smelling anu tasting of the puie, intoxicating natuial floweis to the woist ouois anu tastes of householu cleaneis anu automobile oi iestioom ueouoiizeis. 0ne might say the uiffeience lies between a tea being flavouieu as opposeu to a slight hint of a tenuei scenting. Teas foi the Chinese maiket have the blossoms (auueu at a 4:1 iatio of floweis: tea) iemoveu by giant fans that blow the petals away, but they aie ietaineu foi appeaiance foi foieign maikets, anu they uo have a ceitain beauty swiiling in poicelain. Theie aie saiu to be nineteen giaues of Yin Bao }asmine tea, fiom the cheap anu oveibeaiing to the most uelicate anu sublime. As to the flavoi of the highest giaues I have tiieu a few anu they aie woith the money. But theie aie some tiuly iaie ones that I have only ieau about, anu one can only imagine what sensations must be concealeu in the leaves of the uppei echelons of that floial tea hieiaichy. Lu Yu's Cha }ing (The Classics of Tea) (ciica 78u AB), iefeis to Fuzhou (westein Fujian) tea "Eight Nin Bigh Nountains (Piouuces) Teas with Tenuei Buus, on both shoies of the Nin Rivei aie Fiagiant }asmines." It is wiitten that auuing floweis to tea, oi scenteu tea 3:)03) ieacheu a ciitical stage of iefinement uuiing the Song =,/)+$, (96u-1279). By fai the best expiession of these techniques come fiom tea fiom the Fujian Piovince. Some of the finest come fiom that iegion, such as the white tea with jasmine (Bai Bao Yin Zhen) to the }asmine Silvei Baii (Yin Bao }asmine). The Fujian jasmine teas have been a specialty foi the iegion since the Ning uynasty (1S68-1644) anu they use a base tea that is then exposeu to fiesh blossoms in a piocess calleu 38/(>#/(. In this piocess, the base tea, peihaps an oolong oi a gieen tea of vaiying quality, is exposeu to waim, inuiiect aii, slowly allowing the leaf to iemain able to absoib the jasmine scent. Fiesh blossoms aie iakeu into the tea to peimeate its veiy spiiit with the caieful hint of slight jasmine essence. The Sichuan Piovince tieasuie }asmine Snowflakes tea (?# 1)/ @#)8 A:') is also of a peifectly uelicate, light aioma just kissing a peifectly accommouating tea that's tastes like the fiist spiing giasses that peak thiough the snow. No uoubt teas that aie giown with the plants pick up theii eneigy, pollens, aiomas anu essence, making the jasmine-iich Fujian aiea a jasmine tea paiauise. Foi an inspiieu ieau, anu gieatei uetail on the piocessing, see the aiticle citeu below by the always-insightful tea mastei Naiy Lou Beiss (ietiieveu 2u14), whose wiitings aie always fascinating anu poetic.
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Stuuying plants anu ieligious tiauitions in a compaitmentalizeu mannei becomes impossible as plants, technologies, anu sciiptuies conveigeu with ancient tiaue ioutes. Tiauitions, plants anu texts weie uispeiseu acioss the ancient woilu, with inteipietations anu customs blenuing anu evolving with the flavoi of any new cultuie they ieach. Ny fiist exposuies to }asmine uieen Tea weie chaiacteiistically Islamic in natuie, the fiuits of jouineys to sit amongst elueis of 1)+)"":; anu to leain vaiious tiauitions of Sufi meuicine, alchemy anu heibalism. Ny fiist glass was at a Nouiiue event; the haze of memoiy is of swiiling, melouic, ihythmic bieathing anu chants anu the cobalt blue Noioccan-style glasses wafting the mysteiious peifumes of Asia anu Aiabia. Ny fascination with tea in spiiitual contexts biought my full attention away fiom the singing anu to this tiny cup uistiibuteu just befoie the iitual iemembiance of uou was about to ieach a ciescenuo. Theie weie just the faint hints of gieen tea anu jasmine, plus othei still unknown aumixtuies, plenty of sugai anu a finish of fiesh mint that impaiteu a ciisp, coolness. The tea, pouieu back anu foith, becomes thick anu fiothy, almost like a latte. Piesent at one of the tea sessions was a neaily life-size painting of the Senegalese saint Cheikh Ibia Fall on Baye Fall patchwoik. This was my fiist expeiience with the attaya tea style populai in ceitain Islamic countiies anu especially in West anu Noith Afiica. Anu though I am uevoteu to neai constant sipping of the Taiwanese high mountain oolongs, the iefieshment anu beauty of the attaya style tea, spontaneously aiiaigneu with some fiienus is a veiy blesseu anu spiiitual gatheiing. Cheikh Ibia Fall's mastei, the gieat Sufi saint Cheikh Amauou Bamba saiu of uiinking gieen tea (as well as the Nouiiue spiceu coffee Caf Touba) aftei taking bayat to the Nouiiue path, was like uoing salaat foi 7u yeais, oi giving zakat foi 7u yeais, oi going on Bajj foi 7u yeais. The angel }abiil is saiu to have askeu Cheikh Amauou Bamba what he wanteu foi his spiiitual anu physical tiials, anu he saiu he wanteu his tiophies to be coffee (Caf Touba which is coffee with Afiican long peppei known as ujai oi the giain of Selim, A,*89#) )'$3#89#0)) anu gieen tea. This follows the tiauition of Sufi who spieau stimulants such as tea, khat, anu coffee all ovei the Islamic woilu to iefiesh the soul uuiing long night piayeis vigils, iituals anu meuitations. It is iemaikable that at the coie of Nouiiuism, the highest Sufi mastei the woilu has evei seen, Cheikh Amauou Bamba shoulu ask foi gieen tea as his tiophy, anu that foi Nouiiues to uiink it is equivalent of the highest acts of woiship in Islam. I have compaieu the Cheikh to the Tibetan Buuuhist saint Paumasambhava elsewheie on a tieatise on anothei mystical heib that Cheikh Bamba talkeu about, 28.!7'$:. .#07)/$3:.B known as seh-haw, oi kinkeliba. Nentioning this compaiison to a Nouiiue uisciple, I was tolu that Seiigne Saliou Nbacke, the last gianu maiabout of the Nouiiuiyyah, who was a son of Cheikh Amauou Bamba Nbacke, tolu him uiiectly that the Nouiiues have a high iepiesentative in the Buuuhist iealm, who has always walkeu the eaith. As a stuuent of the methous of meuitations, cosmologies anu piactices of Sufi anu BuuuhistsBaoists, it was like a ievelation to heai the Cheikh speak in the piecise language of the sages anu auepts of Asia. The Cheikh auvocateu non-violence, compassion, meicy, anu, above all, love. As one begins to ieally stuuy this avatai fiom West Afiica, his mysteiy only ueepens, his tiue essence only just hinteu at in his beautiful poems. When I heai the oial tiauitions that he spoke of on gieen tea, confiimeu to my sinceie fiienu's eai by Cheikh Bamba's son Seiigne Saliou, theie was an abiuing peace, as if this was a sign, a lanumaik towaius the iight path. This was a uistant but complete confiimation of the message in this uivinely gifteu leaf. Ny uiveigent spiiitual paths hau conveigeu again at the teapot. Cheikh Bamba also saiu "I Incluueu Baiaka (blessing) in Ataya (Tea) to the point that who uiinks it will youi sins will be foigiven." I believe this entiiely anu tea, like saints anu piophets, is a meicy to mankinu anu an entheogen in the puiest sense of the woiu. The spiiitual eneigy of tea iesonates fiom the high mountains of Taiwan anu Yunnan to Kyoto anu echoes into Cheikh Amauou Bamba's holy city of Touba, Senegal wheie the angels biought the kaaba fiom Necca. }asmine tea is paiticulaily populai in his holy city of Touba, but it's consiueieu an expensive tea anu thus useu foi special occasions anu honoieu guests. 0ne can assume that if it is piefeiieu in the saint's city, that the Cheikh must have loveu jasmine gieen tea especially. Ny Nouiiue tea fiienu Ismael Biagne says, "A Nouiiue fiom Touba knows moie about }asmine tea than a Nouiiue fiom Bakai oi any othei town. The Bakai community loves theii ataya with stiong gunpowuei gieen tea." They take the ataya (tea) with Noioccan mint, nana fass, oi menthol canuies, anu sugai.
L Lo 8. 1he angels broughL Lhe kaaba of Mecca Lo 1ouba seen ln upper lefL corner, flrsL plcLure, Chelkh Amadou 8amba ls also praylng on Lhe waLer ln a famous deplcLlon of hls Lrlals wlLh Lhe lrench. 1he llnes of Lhe poem (khLlmaLou-l-Moun[L or LasL conversaLlon wlLh Lhe Lord) ln lrench LhaL Chelkh 8amba wrlLes of saylng Lhe kaaba came Lo 1ouba by angels, reads Allah, le noble eL l'Lleve, a prescrlL que la Malson sacree (la kaaba), A eLe elevee par les anges vers 1ouba" whlch mlghL be read as Allah, Lhe noble and Plgh, has prescrlbed LhaL Lhe Sacred Pouse (Lhe ka'bah), Was ralsed by Lhe angels Lo 1ouba." nexL plcLure ls Chelkh Amadou 8amba wlLh hls devoLed dlsclple Chelkh lbra lall. 1he lasL plcLure ls a Lyplcal canlsLer of Lhe Chlnese [asmlne Lea found ln 1ouba. Pavlng only had lL aLLaya sLyle, l can say lL's qulLe nlce, all Lhlngs consldered.
Botanical anu meuicinal heibalist ieseaiches biought me ueepei into the company of Sufi biotheihoous of West Afiica, anu I began expeiimenting with vaiious species of jasmine anu became enamoieu with its fiagiance in teas, incenses anu attais. }asmine was the favoiite attai of monaichs anu Sufi, anu the woiu }asmine ueiives fiom the Peisian C)+).''/ ("gift fiom uou"). The scent of }asmine is favoieu by many Sufi oiueis, anu its fiagiance is useu by poets to speak of the gloiy of uou manifesteu in such a pleasant, sweet aioma. It's an act of hospitality, anu expiession of manneis ()5)!) to offei someone }asmine tea in Sufi $)7#>) fiom Tuikey to Senegal anu many otheis, anu one of the most populai attais with ceitain taiiqa, often woin to the .)+D#5 on Fiiuays. }asmine tea is veiy populai to this uay in Iian as well as many othei Noith Afiican countiies. The style of tea ianges fiom the inexpensive, humble, weatheieu enamel attaya pots of Senegal anu Nali to the oinate, patteineu high styleu tea waie anu samovais of countiies like Iian, Tuikey anu Noiocco. Neuicinal uses of jasmine anu jasmine oil can be founu in texts of 0nani meuicine, paiticulaily fiom the Shia Imams, such as one that tiaces to the Piophet (saws) himself, "Theie is nothing bettei foi the bouy than )*E7)F#>#G" Be was askeu, "What is )*E7)F#>#." Be ieplieu: "}asmine ()*EF)/!)>). Anothei Shia hauith tiaceu to the Imams says, "}asmine ()*E 7)F#>#) is the most excellent hing with which you oil youi bouy." Yet anothei Shia hauith says, "Theie is no oil moie beneficial foi the bouy than the oil of jasmine ()*EF)/!)>). In it aie numeious benefits anu healing foi seventy illnesses (Isphany 2uu7). Theie is an excellent entiy on the incieuible tieatise of Islamic meuicine by Noiiow (2u11) foi }asmine incluuing Piophetic tiauitions anu Shia uses of jasmine as well as uiscussion on species, mouein uses such as jasmine's anticancei activity, anu anti-inflammatoiy uses in mouein meuicine. Noiiow (2u11) also uiscusses Islamic tiauitional uses of jasmine as a calmative, euphoiic, aphiouisiac, antiseptic, antispasmouic, as well as foi aithiitis, female issues of the uteius anu bieast milk, gout, neivous tension, iespiiatoiy uisoiueis anu uepiession amongst many otheis.
top iight of the foui gioupeu pictuies, the incieuible Nouiiue singei Baye Zal Aumiial making ataya. Anu some of the authoi's own ataya paiapheinalia
Peisian anu Tuikish jasmine tea bags fiom English anu Iianian companies, anu Peisian style samovai, the lovely shapeu glass, suggestive of a tulip
In many Islamic countiies, one will finu the tea bieweu in vaiiations of a Russian- style samovai, which can be elaboiately oinate oi as simple as two teapots, one on top of the othei, the lowei being foi the hot watei, the top one concentiateu tea, uiluteu to taste in the glass. Tea is sippeu fiom beautifully oinate small glasses oi cleai glasses that iesemble the tulip.
I have many hanumaue zisha clay anu celauon teapots as well as iaku, cast iion tetsubin, anu many othei fine examples of teawaie, but my little 1u uollai enamel pot fiom Senegal is a cheiisheu fiienu. The noise of its hingeu liu opening anu closing biings me no enu of pleasuie, anu its pointeu spout makes the aciobatic pouiing into the tiny cups easy. 0ne will often see them useu as kettle anu pot, being placeu on the fiie, with a tip of papei to close the spout, with the liu flippeu back anu giaspeu to pievent buining, if theie is any liu left at all foi they aie useu until they uisintegiate fiom metal fatigue. The tea is iapiuly pouieu fiom a height, back anu foith into the cup until a luscious foam heau is achieveu, anu the sweetness anu stiength is peifect. We will piesent a moie compiehensive uiscussion in the foithcoming monogiaph H$$),)4 13' I:;# J), 8; 1'), coming soon to the Belawaie Tea Society website.
Thanks to: Ny two ueaiest tea fiienus Naya anu Naiyam, to the memoiies of my gianumothei in hei gaiuen anu all hei teapots (especially the Biown Betty) anu my mothei anu hei teapots, to Ismael fiom www.saafaia.com, Bio Sufi foi so much knowleuge anu oial tiauitions, Shiloh Lamp Fall, Baye Zal the singei anu teaheau, all the hosts anu guests in tea: let us be togethei one. Thanks to Ibia at www.SufiBeibs.com anu Filiation Sounus, whose kettles nevei cool. Thanks to tea auuicts ovei at www.bottlegouiuheibs.com Bjeiejef Khauim Rassoul, Baikei Cheikh Ibia Fall, Neici Seiigne Nbacke Fall Noustapha!
;* <5 =:$ > ")# ?$%-5'# 12*3#4 6*'+@ The much veisioneu song, evocative of such poetic sentiments in China, has leu to its use as an anthem in nationalist events as well as a souice of contioveisy when useu in piotest. Echoing the coloi ievolution of the so-calleu }asmine Revolution in Tunisia, the Chinese people playeu the song at pio-uemociatic iallies, eventually getting it banneu in 2u11, anu new piotest veisions openly uiscuss the piotestei's feais of being aiiesteu: http:www.youtube.comwatch.v=4mvfE9NvuB0&ntz=1 http:www.youtube.comwatch.v=9N4gca_uLB4
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