":^^/mm

PRIATJ1,X

LIBRARY

OSMOND DE BEAUV^OIR

PRIAULX.

V)

A
.u

me
Robert E. Gross
Collection

Memorial

to the

Founder

of the

Business Administration Library

Los Angeles

TRAVELS
TH ROUGH

SYRIA AND EGYPT,

VOL.
11.

TRAVELS
THROUGH

SYRIA AND EGYPT

IN THE YEARS I783, 1784,

AND

1785.

CONTAINING
The
prefent Natural and Political
State of thole

Countries, their Produ6lions,

tures,

Arts,

Manufac-

and

Comnaerce; with Obfervations on

the Manners, Cuftoms, and

Government of the

Turks

and

Arabs.

ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.

By M. CF. V

OLNE

Y.

translated from the FRENCH.

TWO VOLUMES. VOL. THE second edition.

IN
II.

LONDON:
printed for
G. G.
J.

AND

J.

ROBINSON",

P A T E R -N O S T E

R-R O V/.

MDCCLXXXVIII,

CONTENTS
OF THE
S

EC

OND VOLUME.
.
iii

>Mlll llll

lliHAWlt flM'iHt.
l

Stati: of Syria continued.

Page

Chap.

XXIV. of

the cultivating, or

Cedentary inhabit ajits

of Syria,

t
ibid.

Of Of the Maronites Of the Dnizcs, Of the Mot Glialis Chap. XXV. Summary of the
the Anfarians

3j

84
'hiflo'ry

of

Daher, fon of Omar, who governed at Acre from 1750 /c* 1776, 107

Chap. XXVI.
Pachalics,

DiJIribution of Syria into

under

the

Turkifi go-

vermnenty

138

Chap. XXVIL
Aleppo,
nue, forces,

Of

the

Pachalic

of

its limits,

produdlions, reve-

and remarkable places

Of

IX

CONTENTS:
?ncrce

Of Of
dcferty

Piige

the city

of Aleppo mid its comthe cities of Antioch and

or

Skandarooiif

Alexandretta

Of
139

the milages on the frontiers of the

Chap". XXVIII.
'Tripoli,

Of

the

Pachalic

its limits

and productions
^

of

Of the cities of Tripoli L atakia^ &c Chap. XXIX. Of the Pachalic of Saide,
called likewife that of Acre, its limits,

167

produSlionSy

&c.

Of

the

city

of

Druzes Of hanna Of

B airout

Of

the

country of the

the convent of

Mar-

the

Arabic print ing-prefs

ejiablified at this convent

Catalogue

of the Arabic books printed there Of

the city of Saide, thea?tcient

SidonOf

the village of Sour, the ancient Tyre

--Of

the fituation

ancient

Of
-^

Tyre Of

and commerce of the city of Acri

thi'' cities

of Tabaria, of Safai

and BalbecOf the ruin of the temple

Of the fun at BtJjeC) Chap, XXX. Of the Pachalic

179
of

Da-

fiiafcuSfitslimits, produBions, ^C,

?nrce

Of the

city

df Damafcus and

its

com-

fc

O N T E N T

S,

Hi

merce*-^Of the ruins of Palmyra-Of

the cities of Horns,

Page

Hama, Apamea,
of the

and

the ruins on the frontiers

Of
its

Dtfert

Of

the country

of Nablous

the city of

ferujalemOf the

convent and order of the Holy Land,

revenues andprefent ad?ni?iiftratio?i, 240^

Chap.

XXXL Of

Faleftinc^Of the

cities

Tafa, Ramla, and

Gaza-Of

the adjoining Defert,

cities

and the ruined

on the road to

Mecca

Of

the

ancient commerce of thefe countries hy

Of
the

the

Red Sea^Of

the

Defrt of Sinai
2,2^

the convent of Sinai,

Political ftate

Chap. XXXII.
refumed,

of Syria

^S^
the government of
in

Chap. XXXIII. Of
Turks

Syria,

370
388

Chap. XXXIV. Of
of

the Adminijiration

J ftice,
J

Chap, XXXV. Of
ligion,

the influence

of re-

393
property,

Chap.

XXX VL Of

ranks,

a}id conditions ^

402

CilAP.

Jv

CONTENTS.
Page
State oj the Feafants

Chap. XXXVII.

and of A^riculture

406
the

Chap.

XXXVIIL Of

Artfans,
41 j;

'Traders,

and Commerce,
the Arts, Sciences,

Chap. XXXIX. Of
and Ignorance of

the People,

432
cufojns,

Chap. XL. Of
Syria^

the

manners,

and chara^er of

the inhabitants

of

457

T RAVELS

Jhavlf duQfria ^iJlpa

-0K^

View of the RiUns of Palmyra

in

the Desert or Syria.

Travels
I

EGYPT
STATE

AND

SYRIA. SYRIA,
XXIV.
I.

OF

CHAP.
Sect.
Of
firft

the Anfarians,

T
try

.'HE

people
reft

who

fhould be diftin-

guifhed from the

Syria

of the inhabitants of
thcmfelves

among

thofe

who employ

in cultivation, are thofe, called in that coun-

by the plural name Anfaria,

ftiled

in Delifle's

maps
ville,

Enfyrians, and, in thofe of

Dan-

NalTaris.

The
is

territory

occupied by

thefe

Anfaria

that

chain of mountains
to the rivulet

which extends from Antakia

called

Nahr-el-Kabiry or the Great River.

hiftory of their
is

The

origin,

though

little
it

known, Vol.

yet inftrudtive : I ihall give

in the

II.

i,

TRAVELSIN
who
has drawn his
**
'

the words of a writer

materials from the beft authorities (aj,

In the year of the Greeks 1202, (A.

D.

891), there Hved at the village of Nafar

in the environs of Koufa,' an old

man, who,
feve-

from
and
ral

his

faftings, his

continual prayers,
:

his poverty, pafTed for a faint

of the
his

common

people declaring them-

'

felves

partizans,

he

feledled

from

among them twelve

his dod:rine.

difciples to

propagate

But the magiftrate of the

proceedings, feized
in prifon.

place, alarmed at his

the old

man, and confined him

In this reverfe of fortune, his fituation excited the pity of a girl

'

who was

flave to

the goaler,

and fhe determined

to

give

'

him

his

liberty.
eifed:

An
her

opportunity
delign.

foon
day,

'

offered

to

One

'

when
cated,

the goaler was gone to bed intoxi-

'

and
the
after

in a

profound

fleep,

fhe gently

took
and,

keys

from under

his

pillow,

*
*

opening the door to the old

to
their place
:

man, returned them

perceived

un-

by her mafter

the next day,

when

the gaoler went to

vifit his prifoner,

'

he was extremely allonifhed

at finding

he

[a) AfTernahi, BibKotheque orientak.

" had

EGYPT AND
*^
*'
**

SYRIA.
and the more ib

had made
fince

his

efcape,

he

could

perceive

no marks

of

violence.

He

therefore judiciouily condelivered

" eluded he had been

'^

by an angel,
to avoid the

and eagerly fpread the report,

"
*'

reprehenfion he merited ^ the oilman,

on

the other hand, alTerted the fame thing to

his difciples,

**

and preached his dodrines

earneftnefs

**
*'
** **

with

more

than ever.

He
other

even VvTOte a book, in which,

things, he fays
:

among
is

/, JiiC/b

a 07ie, of the
the

village

of Ncijhr, have feen Chrifi, who

"
'-

**

word of God, who is Ahmad, fon of Mohammad, fan of Hanafa, of the race of All; who alfo is Gabriel, and he faid to trie : Thou art he who
rcadeth, (with underftanding,) thou art the

**
** *'

man who fpeaketh

truth-,

thou art the camel

which preferveth the faithful fro?n wrath-,

thou art the berji which carrieth their bur-

**
*' '*

then; thou art the

( Holy)

thefon ofZachary, Go,

andfohn^ andpreach to me7i that

Spirit ,

**
**

they

make four gemfediions

of the fun,

before the rifng

two and two before his

in praying-,

**

fetting, tur?iij2g theirfaces towards Jenfaletn:

,

" and let them fay three times: God Almighty " God 77ioft high, God mcft great : let the7n ob**

fe7've only the

fecond and third fefiival;

let

" them

TRAVELSIN
days anmial!)",
let

" thcmfajl hilt Hvo " waflj the prepuce

**
**

them not

nor drink beer, hut as

',

much
them

"Wine as they think p7-oper

and,

lajlly, let

ahjlain

" This
*'
'*

from thejiejh of carnivorous animals. old man, palling into Syria, propa-

gated his opinions

among
And,

the lower orders

of the country people, numbers of

believed in him.
after a

whom
years,

"

few

" he went away, and nobody

**

ever

knew what

became of him."
Such was the origin of thefe Anfarians, who
for

are,

the moft part,

inhabitants of the

mountains before mentioned.

than a century after
'wv?

little

more

this, the cruladers, carry-

the

war

into thefe countries, and,

march-

ing from Marrah, along the Orontes, towards

Lebanon,
reans, a

fell

in

with fome of thefe Naji^

great

number of
(h"),

whom

they flew.

William of Tyre
iibly they

who

reports this fad:,

confounds them with the

uifajjins,

and pof-

might have refembled each other;

adds, that the Franks, as well
affajjinsy

as to as

what he

the

Arabs, employed the term

without
origin
3

being able to give any account of its

it is

problem cafy of

folution.

Haf-

{b) Lib. XX. chap. 30.

faffm

EGYPT AND
faffin

SYRIA.
fignijfies

fcj, in the vulgar Arabic,

'y

Robto

bers of the night

killy

perfons

who

He in ambiijl^

and

is

ftill

underftood in this fenfe at

for

Cairo,

and

in

Syria;

which

reafon

it

was appHed
furprife.

to the Batanians,

who

flew by
to

The

crufaders,

who happened

be

in Syria at the time this pradlice

was mofh fre-

quent, mufl have adopted the ufe of the term

in

queilion.

What

they have related of the

is

old

man

of the mountain,

in

confequence

of an

improper tranflation of the phrafe

Shaik-el-Djebal,
mountainsy the

which
the

fignifies Lo?'d

of the
to

title

Arabs gave

the

chief of the Batenians, whofe relidence was

to the caft of Kourd-eftan, in the mountains

of the ancient Media.

The

Anfarians are, as
tribes

have

faid,

divided

into feveral

or fedls;

among

v/hich

we
fun

diflinguifh the Shamiia^ or adorers of the

;

the Kelbia, or worfhippers of the dog,

as
I

and the Kadmouiia, who,

pay a particular homage

am

affured,

to that part in

wo-

men, which correfponds

to the Priapus (d),

B
{c)

3
/?,

M.
fignifies to kill, to
is
j

The

root hafs^ with an afpirated

affailinate, to lifren, to furprize

but the compound hajfas

not to be found
{d) I

in Golius.

am

alfured, likewife, that they hold nocturnal af.

femblie?,

TRAVELSIN
M.
Niebuhr,
to

whom

the

fame

cir-

cumftances were related as to me, could not

believe them, becaufe, fays he,
it is

not pro-

bable that mankind fliould fo far degrade

themfelves;

but

this

mode of

reafoning
all

is

contradided, both by the hiftory of

tions,

na-

which proves how capable the human

is

mind
tries,

of the mofl extravagant excelTes, and

all

even by the prefent ftate of a]moft

coun-

efpecially of the eaflern world,

where

we meet

with a degree of ignorance and cre-

dulity fufficient to receive the moft palpable

abfurdities.

The

whimfical

fuperflitions

have mentioned, may the rather be believed

ftili

to exift

among the
from
are

Anfarians, as they feem

to have been

preferved there
thofe

by a regular
.

'-

-iiriiffion

antient

times

in

'

they
ns

known

to have prevailed.

remark

that, notwithflanding the

f Antioch,

Chriflianity penetrated
into thefe coun-

,_reateft difficulty
?

ji'Tofelytes

were made here,

:

:he reign of Julian

and from that

they extinguifli

'"b, after certain difcourfes,

<1;-,-

promifcuous

luft, as

has been reported

period

EGYPTAND
period to

SYRIA.

the invafion of the Arabs there

for its eftablifliment. In

was not much time

fail, revolutions in

opinion feldom take place

cities,

fo readily

in

the provinces as in great

where the

facility

of communication

diifufee

new

ideas

with more rapidity,

fo that they

are foon either univerfally received or entirely

The progrefs made by Chriilianity, among thefe rude mountaineers, could only ferve to prepare the way for Mahomeexploded.
tanifm, more^^fiiitable to their habits and inclinations
;

and

to this abfurd

medley of an-

cient and

modern
his

doctrines

the old

man

of

Nafar owed

fuccefs.

One hundred and

iifty years after,

Mohammed-el-Dourzi having,
principal article,
:

in his turn, formed a fed', the Anfarians did

not admire

its

the divinity

of the Caliph

Hakem

for this reafon they re-

main

diftind:

from the Druzes, though they

refemble each other in feveral points.

Many

of the Anfarians believe in the Metempiychofis

;

others rejedl the immortality of the

foul 3 and, in general, in that civil and religious

anarchy, that ignorance and rudenefs which

prevail

among them,

thefe peafants adopt

what opinions they think proper,

following

B 4

TRAVELSIN
Their country
is

ing the fe<St they like beft, and, frequently, at-

taching themfelves to none.

divided into three princi-

pal

diftri^ts,

farmed by the chiefs called

Mo^

kaddamin.

Their tribute

is

paid to the Pacha

of Tripoli, from
their
title.

whom

they annually receive

in general

Their Mountains are

not fo fteep as thofe of Lebanon ; and, confequently,

arc better adapted to cultivation
alfo
^

but they are

more expofed
it

to the

Turks*

and hence, doubtlefs,

happens, that, with

greater plenty of corn, tobacco, v/ines,

olives,

and

they are more thinly inhabited than

thofe of their neighbours the Maronites, and

the Druzes, of whom

I fliall

next fpeak.

.11

Sect.
Of the
15 Etween

IL

Maronites^

the Anfarians, to the north, and

the Druzes to the fouth,

fiderable people

we find an inconlong known under the name

Their origin,

of Mawarna or Maronites,

^d

EGYPT AND
and the minute
have been
difference

SYRIA.

between them and

they are^

the Latins, of which

communion
by
notice,

much
is

difcuifed

ecclefiallical

writers. All that

worth

and knowa

with

certainty,

concerning

them,

may

be

reduced to what follows

Towards the end of the

church, while the
fpirit

fixth age of the

of retirement from
novel and fervid,
a

the world was equally

name of Maroun, lived on the banks of the Orontes, who, by his failing, his folitary mode of life, and his aufterities, became much refpedted by the neighbouring
hermit, of the
people.
It

feems that, in the difputes which

at that time arofe

between

Rome

and Conin favour

far

flantinople,

he employed his credit

of the weftern Chriilians.

His death,

from abating the ardor of

his followers, o-ave

it

was reported that miracles had been wrought by his retheir zeal:

new

energy to

mains,

and,

in

confequence,

alTemblcd from Kinefrin,

other places,

many pcrfons from Awafem and

who

built at

Hama

a chapel

and a tomb whence foon arofe

a convent

very celebrated in that part of Syria.

quarrels

The

of the two Metropolitan churches

encreafed,

and the whole empire

entered

warmly

rt

TRAVELS

IN

warmly
princes.

into the diflentlons of the priefts and

Matters were thus fituated, when,

a

about the end of the feventh century,

talents for preaching,

jnonk, named John the Maronite, obtained,

by

his

the reputation

of being one of the mofl powferful fupporters of the caufe of the Latins, or Partifans of the
Pope.

Their opponents,

who

efpoufed the

caufe of the Emperor,

and were therefore

named

Ivlelkites,

or Royalifls,

made

at that

tirne great progrefs in

Lebanon.

To

oppofe

them with
fented him,

fuccefs,

the Latins determined to

fend thither John the Maronite: they preaccordingly, to the agent of the
after confecrating

Pope, atAntioch, who,

Biiliop of

him

Djebal,

fent

him

to

preach in
in rally-

thofe countries.

John

loft

no time

ing his partifans,

and

in

augmenting
intrigues,

their

number
thought

-,

but, oppofed

by the

and

even by the open attacks, of the Melkites,

it

neceffary to refift force

by force

he
felf

coiledted all the Latins,

and

fettled

him-

with them in Lebanon, where they form-

ed a fociety independent both with refpedl to

its

civil

and religious government.

This

is

related

by an Hiftorian of the Lower Empire

words
;

in the following

**

Li the eighth year

" o

E:GYPT and SYRIA.

'

II

of the reign of Conflantine Pogonatus,

(i'](i),

" (A. D.
**
**

the

Mardaites,

colledting

thcmfelves

together,

took

polleiTion

of

Lebanon,

which became the afykim of

all

'*

vagabonds. Haves, and

for. ofrajole.

**

They

grevv^ fo

powerful there, as to flop

"
*'
*'

the progrcfs of the Arabs, and to compel

the Caliph

Moawiato
tribute

requeft of the Geeeks

a truce for thirty years, obliging himfelf

to

*' **

pay

of

fifty

horfcs,

one

hundred Haves, and ten thoufmd pieces

of gold (e)r

The name
Author,
is

of Mardaites, here ufed by this

oppofed to Melkkes, or
that the Syriac

derived from a Syriac word, figniis

fying Rebel, and

Royaliflis,

which proves both

was

wasflill inufe at that time, and that the fchifm

which

rent the empire

Befides,
it

as

much

civil as

religious.

appears that the origin

of the two

factions,

and the exiftence of an

were prior to
ages of
is

infurredtion in thefe countries,

thefe times,

for,

from the

firft

Mamade

hometanifm (A. D. 622), mention

of petty independent princes, one of vvhom,

named Youfeph, was

[e)

Ibvereign of Dj.bail

-,

CcJrenus.

and

12

TRAVELSIN
of the country, which, from hinv

and the other, called Kefrou, governed the interior parts

took the name of Kefraoueti,

wife of another

We read

like-

who made an expedition againft

Jerufalem, and died at a very advanced age at

Befkonta ffjy where he refided. Thus, before Conftantine Pogonatus, thefe mountains

were become the refuge of malecontents, or

rebels,

who

fled

from the bigotry of the

It

Em-

perors and their governors.

was doubtlefs

for this reafon, and from a fimilarity in their

opinions, that

fuge there;

John and his difciples took reand it was from the afcendancy

they acquired, or already pofleffed, that the

whole nation took the name of Maronites, which was lefs difgraceful than that of
Mardaites. Be this as
cftablifhed order
it

may, John, having

difcipline

and military

among

the Mountaineers, having provided them with

arms and
in

leaders, they

employed

their liberty

combating the

common

enemies
and,

of the

empire, and their

little ilate,

prefently,

became mafters of almoft

as far as Jerufalem.

all

the mountains

The

fchifm v/hich took

place at this jun(flure

facilitated their

among the Mahometans conquefts. Moawia rebelling

of Kefraouan.

(f)

A village

againft

EGYPT AND
ftgalnft All at Damafcus,

SYRIA.

13

Caliph a Koufli, found

himlelf obliged,

in order to avoid being enat once, to

gaged in two wars

a difadvantageous

treaty

678, with the Greeks.

it

make,

in

Seven years

after,
II.

Abd-el-Malek renewed
on
condition,
free

with Juflinian
that the

however,
the

Emperor fhould

him from

Pvlaronites.

To

this propofal, Jiifliinian

had
bafe

the imprudence to confent, and was

enough

to get

their chief afTaffinated

by an

ambaffador,

whom the

too generous

man had

received into his houfe without fufpicion of

treachery.

After this murder, the fame agent

fucceeded fo well by his intrigues that he per-

faaded twelve thoufand inhabitants to quit

their country, leaving a free paflage to the

Ma-

hometan arms.
for the

Soon

after another pcrfecu-

tion m.enaced the Maronites with total ruin

fame Juflinian

fent troops againffc

them

under Marcian and Mauritius,

the monaflery of

who

deilroyed

Hama, and

maflacred five
carried the

hundred monks,

after

which they

war quite intoKefraouan^ but, happily, at this moment, Juftinian was depofed, when on the
point of caufing a general maifacre in
flan tinople;

Con-

and the Maronites, authorized

falling

by

his fuccefTor,

upon Maurice, cut

his

14

TRAVELSIN
army
to pieces in an

his

engagement

in

which

he himfelf
lofe
fi

perilhed.
till

From

this period

we

crht of them o

the invafion of the

Cruiaders,

with

whom

they were

fome-

times in alliance, and fometimes at variance.

In

this interval, of more

lofi:

than three centuries,

they

part of their poiTeillons, and were

reduced to their prefent limits, paying tribute,

no doubt,

as often as the

Arabian or Turk-

man

governors were able to compel them.

cafe

This was the

with the Caliph of Egypt,

Hakem-Bamr-Eilah,
1

01 4, ceded their

who, about the year territory to a Turkman,

Prince of Aleppo.

Two hundred

years after,

Selah-el-din having driven out the Europeans

from
mit

this country,

they were obliged to fub-

to his pov/er,

and purchafe peace by conis

tributions.

At

this period, that

about the

year 1215, the Maronites effed:ed a reunion

v/ith

Rome, from

v/hich they never were

flili

widely feparated,
V/illiam of Tyre,

and which

fubfifts.

who

relates this, obferves,

that they had forty thoufand

men

able to

bear arms.

The peace they enjoyed

under the

Mamlouks was diilurbedby Selim

but
this prince,

the Second,

occupied by more important

fubjedl:

ob'eds, did not take the trouble to

A

them

EGYPT AND
them.

SYRIA.

15

This negligence emboldened themand, in concert with the Druzes, and their
Emir, the celebrated Faker-el-din, they made

on the Ottomans 5 but thefe commotions had an unfortunate ifTue ;

daily encroachments
for

Amurath

the Third, fending againfl

them

Ibrahim, Pacha of Cairo, that General re-

duced them
jedled

to obedience, in

1588, and fubflill

them

to the annual tribute they

pay.
Since that period, the Pachas, defirous of

extending their authority and extortions, have

frequently attempted to introduce their garrifons

and Agas into the mountains of the

but being conftantly repulfed,

Maronites;

they have been compelled to abide by their

treaties.

The

fubjedtion
confifls

of the Maronites

therefore only
tribute to the

in the

payment of a

Pacha of Tripoli, of

whom

they hold their country, which he annually

farms out to one or more Shaiks fgj, that is to fay, perfons of eminence and property,

who

affign their refpe<5tive fhares to the

dif-

(g) In the mountains, the word Shaik fignifieSj properly,

man

of property, or country gentleman.

tricts

i6

R A V E L

N
is
leviedj,"

trids and villages.

chiefly,

This impoft

on the Mulberry- trees and vineyards^

are the principal,
It

which

and almoft the

varies

fole

objeds of culture.

according to

the feafons, and the refiftance they can make!

to the Pacha.

Cuftomhoufes are

eftabliilied

likewife in

the maritime

tow^ns,

fuch as

Djebail, and
thefc
is

Batroun; but the produce of

but inconfiderable*
is

The form of o government

and cuftoms.

not founded on

any exprefs convention, but merely on ufages

This inconvenience

would^

doubtlefs, long ere this, have produced dif-

agreeable effeds, but for the intervention of

many

fortunate
is

circumftances.
religion,

The

prin-

cipal of thefe

which, placing an

infurmountable barrier between the Maronites

and the Mahometans, has prevented ambitious

men from

leaguing themfelves with foreigners

to enflave their countrymen.

The

fecond

is

the nature of the country, which, every where

affording flrong defences, enables every village,

and almoft every family,

fmgle force,
all

to

oppofe>

by

its

ufurpation of fovereafon

reign

power.

third

may
this

be defociety,

rived even

from the weaknefs of

which, having always been furrounded by

powerful

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

17
reilft

powerful enemies, has only been able to

them by maintaining union among its members, which union can onlyexifl by abftaining
from opprpffing each
other, and

by reciprocal-

ly guarding the fafety of each others perfon

and property. Thus the government

itfelf in

prefer ves

a natural equilibrium, and, cuftoms

fiipplying
are,

the place of laws, the Maronites

equally flrangers to the op-

to this day,

prefiion

of defpotifm,

and the diforders of

anarchy.

The
into

nation

may

be confidered as divided

twockfles; the

common

people and the

which mufh be underftood the mofl eminent of the inhabitants, who, from the
Shaiks, by
antiquity of their families, and the opulence

of their fortunes, are fuperior to the ordinary

clafs.

They

all

live

difperfed in the

moun-

tains,

in villages, hamlets,
is

and even detached

houfes; which

never the cafe in the plains.

confifts

The whole Every man

poifelTes,

nation

of cultivators.

improves the
w^ith

little

domain he

or farm^s,

his

own

hands.

Even
and

the Shaiks live in the fame manner,

are

only

diftinguiflied

from

the

red

by a bad

Pelifs,

a horfe, and a few flight

all

advantages in food and lodging: they

live

Vol

II.

frugally.

i8

T R A V
without

E L

N
acquainted
In general,

irugally,

many

enjoyments, but alfo

with few wants,

as they are little

with the inventions of luxury.

the nation
faries
;

is

poor, but no one wants necef-

and

if

beggars are fometimes fcen, they

the fea-coaft than the counis

come rather from

try
itfeif.

Property

as facred

among them
thofe rob-

as in Europe, nor
beries

do

we
fo

fee there

and extortions
Travellers

frequent with

the

Turks.

may journey

there, either

by night or day, with a fecurity unknown in

any other part of the empire, and the flranger
it

received with hofpitality,

-,

as

among

the

Arabs

it

muft be owned, however, that the

Maronites arelefs generous, and raiher inclined

to the vice of parlimony.
doc5lrines

Conformably

to the

of Chriflianity, they have only one

they efpoufe frequently, without

wife,

whom
in

having

feen, and, always,

without having been Contrary to the

much

her

company.

precepts of that fame religion, however, they

have admitted, or retained, the Arab cuftom of retaliation, and the nearefl relation of a

murdered perfon

is

bound

to

avenge him.
the
one,

From

a habit founded on diHruft, and

ftate

political

of

the

country,

every

Vvdiether Shaik,
o

or peafant, walks continually

armed

EGYPTANDSYRIA.
armed with
perhaps,
tage
refults

19

mufket and poniards.

This

is,

an inconvenience; but this advan-

from

it,

that

they

have no

novices in the ufe of arms

it
is

neceffary

to

among them, when emiploy them againft the

maintains no reis

Turks.

As

the country

gular troops, every

man
it

obhged
if this

to

join

the army in time of war, and

miUtia

were well conducted,

would be

fuperior to

many

European
late years,

armies.

From

accounts
fit

taken in

the

number of men,

to

bear arms, amounts to thirty-five thoufand.

According
this

to the ufual

mode of computation,

would imply a population of about a hundred and five thoufand fouls; and, if we add the priefls, monks, and nuns, difperfed
in

upwards of two hundred convents, and the

inhabitants of the maritime towns, fuch as

Djebail, Batroun,
lefs

&c. we cannot fuppofe than a hundred and fifteen thoufand.

it

This number, compared with the extent of

the country, which
fifty
is

about a hundred and

leagues fquare,
inhabitants
will

gives feven

hundred and
league;

fixty

for

each
a

fquare
fmall

which
tion,

not

appear

popula-

when we

confider

that great part of

Lebanon

'40

TRAVELS
confifts only
foil,

IN

Lebanon
that the

of barren rocks, and

it

even where
little.

can be cultivated,

produces very

In religious matters, the Maronites are dependent on Rome.

Though

they acknov/ledge

the fupremacy of the Pope, their clergy continue, as heretofore, to ele6t a head,
title

with the

of Batrak,
prieils

or patriarch

of Antioch.
ages of the

Their

marry, as in the

firft

churchy

but their wives muft be maidens,

a fecond

and not widows, nor can they marry

time.

They

celebrate

mais in Syriac,

of

which

the greateft part of

them comprehend
is

not a word.

The
It

gofpel, alone,

read aloud

in Arabic, that

may be underftood by the The communion is adminiftered in people. both kinds. The Hoft is a fmall round loaf,
unleavened,

of the thicknefs of a finger, and

fomething larger than a crown piece.

it
is

On
eaten

the imprefiion of a
prieft,

feal,

which

is

by the

who
each

cuts the remainder into

fmall pieces, and, putting

adminifters to

them

into the cup,

a

perfon

with

fpoon

which
not, as

ferves every body.

Thefe

priefcs

have

among

us, benefices or fiated revenues;

but they

fubfifl

on the produce of

their

mailes.

EGYPT AND
labour of their hands.
cife trades,

SYRIA.

21

maiTes, the bounty of their hearers, and the

Some of them

exer-

others cuhivate a fmall piece of

are induftrioufly employed, for

land, and

all

the

maintenance of their families,

and the
is is

edification

of their flock.

Their poverty

recompenfed
paid

by

the great refpedt

is

which

them

their vanity

incefTantly

flat-

tered;

whoever approaches them,

is

whether

rich or poor, great or fmall,

their hands,

anxious to kifs

which they

fail

not to prefent;

nor are they pleafed that the Europeans withhold

this

mark of

reverence,

fo

repugnant

to our manners, though not thought

liating
it

humithe

by the

natives,

who

are

accuilomed to
refpecfts,

from

their infancy.

In other

ceremonies of the Catholic religion are not per-

formed more publicly, or with

in

lefs

reftraint,

Europe than
has
its

in

the

Kefraouan.
its priefl:,

Each

village

its

chapel and
:

and each

chapel

bell

a thing unheard of in any

other part

of Turkey.

The

Maronites are

vain of this privilege, and that they

may

not

be deprived of
tan to
live

it,

will not fuffer a

Mahometo

among them.

They afTume

themfelves, alfo, the privilege of wearing the

Green

22

TRAVELSIN
In their terrilife.

Green Turban, which, except

tories,

would

coll a Chriiliian his

Italy itfelf has not

little

more bifhops than

they here
ftill

this

corner of

Syria;

re-

tain the fimplicity

of the primitive ages ; and

may

be often met on the roads, mounted on a

mule,

and followed by
greater part of
their

fnigle
live

Sacriftan.

The
from

them

in convents,

where

food and drefs

does

not differ
does their

that of the other

monks ; nor

ufual revenue exceed fifteen hundred livres,

(about

fixty-three

pounds) which,

in

this

country, where every article of

enables
as

life is

cheap,

them

to

live

comfortably.

They,
the

well as the priefts, are chofen from

clafs

of

monks j

and are generally eledied

for their pre-eminence in learning,

which

Is

not

difficult to acquire,

fince the bulk of the

monks and

priells

knov/

nothing but
It is

the

catechifm and the bible.

neverthelefs

remarkable, that thefe two fubordinate clafTes

are

more amiable
edifying
patriarch,

in their manners,

and

live

more
the

lives;

while the billiops and

contrary,

on the

conftantly

engaged in cabals,

difputes

of

precedency,

and

religious diftindions,

throw the whole

country into commotion.

Under

pretext of
exercifing

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

23

exerclfing ecclefiaftical difcipllne, according to

the ancient rules of the church, they

tually

mutheir

excommunicate each other, and

adherents
;

.refpe<5tive
terdi<ft

they fulpend priefts, ininflidt

the

monks, and
;

public penance

on the

laity

in a

word, they have retained

intriguing fpirit,

the turbulent and

which

was the fcourge of the Lower Empire.

court of

The

Rome,

frequently embarrafled by their

to pacify

difputes, ftrives

them,

in order to

preferve

the only afylum of her power

in

re-

maining
iince fhe
lar

thefe countries.

It is

not long

was obliged

to interpofe in a

fmgugive

affair,

an account of which

may

fome
nites.

idea

of the character of the Marc-

About the year 1735,

Maronite
girl,

there was,

in

the

neighbourhood of the Jefuit Miflionaries, a

traordinaiy

named Flendia, whofe cxmode of life began to attract the

people.
poffefied
all

attention of the

She
the

failed,
gift

wore

the hair-cloth,

of tears;

and, in a word, had

the exterior of the

ancient hermits, and foon acquired a limiiar

reputation.

Every body conlidered her

as

a model of piety, and

faint.

many

elleemed her a

From

fuch a reputation to miracles the

C 4

tranli-

24
tranfition
Is

TRAVELSIN
very eafy, and, in fad',
it

was foon

reported that fhe

worked miracles.

To

have

a proper conception of the effedls of this report,

we muft
in

not forget that the ftate of

mens minds,

Lebanon,
ages.

is

nearly the fame

as in the earlieft
infidels therefore,

There were neither

this
;

nor wits, nor even doubters.

herfelf of

Hendia

availed

enthuiiafm
and, imita-

for the completion of her defigns

ting the condudl; of her predecefTors in the

fame

career, fhe v/ifhed to

become the foun-

drefs of a

new order.

In vain does the

its

human

heart endeavour to conceal

paffions, they

are invariably the famej nor does

the conare alike

queror

differ

from the monk 3 both

luil:

actuated by ambition and the

of power;
itfelf

and the pride of pre-eminence difplays

even in the excefs of humility.
convent,

To build the
the foundrefs

money was

necelilny;

folicited the pious charity

of her followers,
fo

whofe contributions were

flone
lefs

abundant

as

to

enable her, in a few years, to ered; two vafl

houfes,

which could not have

coil

than one hundred and twenty thoufand

(five

livres

thoufand pounds).

They

are

called the Kourket, and

are lituated

on the

ridge of a hill, to the ncrth-wefl of Antoura,

commanding.

EGYPT AND SYRIA

commanding,
to the weft, a

25
fea,

view of the

which

is

very near, and an extenfive profped:,

to the fouth, as far as the road of Bairout,

which
foon

is

four leagues diflant.

filled

The Kourket with monks and nuns. The Patriof various kinds, were

arch for the time being was diredor-general,

other employments,

conferred on the different priefls and candidates, to

lotted.

whom

one of thefe houfes

as

vv^as

alas

Every thing fucceeaed

it is

v/ell

could have been wiflied;

true that

many
to the

of the nuns died, but

air,

this

was imputed

and the

real caufe

was not eafy

to be diflittle

covered.

Hendia had reigned over her

years,

kingdom near twenty

fion.

when an

unfore-

feen accident threw every thing into confu-

A factor,

Bairout, in

from Damafcus to the fummer, was overtaken by

travelling
:

night, near this convent

the gates were

and,

(Ivat,

the hour unfeafonable ;

as lie did not

wifh to give any trouble, he contented himfelf

with a bed of flraw, and

laid

himfslf

down

in the outer court, waiting the return

of day.

He had

only flept

few hours,
and
bolts

when

fudden noife

of doors

awaliei him.
out three

From one of

the doors

came
their

women,

v/ith fpades

and

iliovels in

26
their

TRAVELSIN
hands j

who were

followed hy two men,

bearing a long white bundle, which appeared very heavy.

They proceeded towards an

their load,

adjoining piece of ground, full of ftones and

rubbiili,

where the men depofited

with earth, trod

dug
feet,

whole into which they put

it it

it,

and, cotheir

vering

down with
returned
to

after

which they
light of

all

the

houfe.

The

men with

nuns,

and

this bundle, thus myfteriouily buried by night,

could not but

furnifli

matter of refied:ion to
firft,

the traveller. Aftonifliment, at

iilent,

kept

him

but, to this, anxiety and fear foon fuc-

ceededj he, therefore, haftilyfetoff forBarout

at

town he was acquainted with a merchant, who, fome months before, had placed two of his daughbreak of day.
In
this
ters in the

Kourket, with a portion of about

four hundred pounds.

He went

in fearch

of

him,

fail

heiitating, yet

burning with im-

patience to relate his adventure.

They

feated

themfelves crofs-legged,
lighted,

the long pipe

and coffee brought.

was The Merchant

vifitor

then proceeded to enquire of his

cerning his journey,

con-

who

anfwered, he had

paffed the night near the Kourket.

This

produced frefh queftions, to which he replied

by

EGYPT AND
by further
longer
able
particulars,

SYRIA.
at

27

and,

length,

no

to

contain

hiiTifelf,

whifi3ered

to his hofl
v/as

what he had

feen.

The merchant
circumflance of

greatly furprized,

the

burying the bundle alarmed him:

and the
his

more he confidered
eafinefs

it

the

more
that

unof

increafed.

He knew
ill,

one

his daughters

was

and could not but

died.

remark that a great many nuns

Tor-

mented with

thefe

thoughts, he

knows not
{\i{-

how

either to admit or rejedl the difmal

fpicions

they occafion

he mounts his horfe,

and, accompanied by

a friend, they repair to-

gether to the convent,

his

where he a/ks

to fee

daughters; He

is

told they areiick;

he
is

infifls

they fhall be brought to

him ;
till,

this

angrily refufed: and the

more he

periifls,

the

more peremptory

is

the refufal,

his fuf-

picions are converted into certainty.

Leav-

ing the convent, in an agony of defpair, he

v/ent to Dair-el-Kamar; and laid
all

the cir-

cumftances before Saad, Kiaya fgj of prince Youfef, chief of the mountain. The Kiaya

was

greatly aftoniflied,

and ordered a body

if refufed

of horfe to accompany him, and,

{g)

The

title

of the minifter of thefe petty princes.

admiffion.

iiS

TRAVELSIN
to force

admiilion,

the

convent ^ the Kadi

affair

took part with the merchant, and the

was

referred to the law; the

ground where the

bundle had been buried was opened, and a

dead body found, which the unhappy father
difcovered to be that of his youngeft daughter

the other v/as found confined in the convent,

and almoft dead. She revealed a fcene of fuch

abominable
wickednefs,
as

makes

human
her
pre-

nature Ihudder, and to

fifiier,

which,

fhe, like

was about to
faint,

fall

a vidtim..

The

tended

being feized, aded her part with

firmnefs; and a profecution was

againll the priefts

commenced

and the patriarch.

The

enemies of the

latter united to effed: his ruin,

in order to fliare his fpoils, and he v/as fuf-

pended,

and depofed.
to

The

affair

was

re-

moved

Rome

in

1776, and the fociety de

Fropaganda, on examination, difcovered the

moft infamous fcenes of debauchery, and the moil horrible cruelties. It was proved that

Hendia procured the death of the nuns, fometimes to get poffeffion of their property, and
at others, becaufe they

would not comply with

her

defires

that this infamous

woman

not

only communicated, but even confecrated the

hoff,

and

faid

mafs

that

flie

had holes under

her

EGYPT AND
at the

SYRIA.

29

her bed, by which perfumes were introduced

moment flie

pretended to be in extacy,

and under the influence of the Holy Ghoft ; that

ihe had a fiftion
lifhed that fhe

who

cried her up,

and pubre-

was the mother of God,

Notwithflanding

turned upon earth, and a thoufand other extravagancies.

this, flie re-

tained a party powerful

enough

to prevent

the fevere punifliment fhe merited.

She has

been

fliut

up

in

di^erent

convents,

from

whence ihe has frequently efcaped. Li 1 783, fhe was prefent at the vifitation of Antoura, and the brother of the Emir of the Druzes was
defirous
ftill

to

give

her

her

liberty.

Numbers
fent

believe in her fandity;

and,

but for the accident of the traveller, her preenemies

would not have doubted

think

it.

What
piety,

muft we

of reputations for
fuch
triflino-

when

they

may depend on

circumfliances

In the fmall country of the Maronites there

upwards of two hundred convents for mien and women. Thefe Religious
are reckoned
are of the order of St.

Anthony, whofe

rules

they obferve with an exacSnefs which reminds

us

of earlier times.
is

The

drefs

of

the

monks

made of brown

coarfe woollen iluif,

and

3ft

TRAVELSIK
friars
iit

and refembles that of the capuchin

Europe. Their food
is

the fame as that of the

peafants, with this exception, that they never

eat
fiefli.

They

obferve frequent
at ftated

fafts,

and

make long prayers

employed

hours in the night,

as well as the day ; the remainder of their time is

in cultivating the earth, or

breaking

the rocks to form the walls of the terraces

which fupport their vineyards and mulberry plantations. Each convent has a brother
fhoemaker, a brother taylor, a brother, weaver,
a brother baker ; in a word, an
neceffary trade.
artift

of every

We

almoll: always find a

convent of wom.en clofe to one of

it
is

men

yet

rare to hear of

any fcandalous report.

a very labori-

Thefe women themfelves lead

ous
life,

and

it is

this activity, doubtlefs,

which

fecures

them

againil all the mifchiefs attend-

ant on idlenefs.

So

far, therefore,

from being
aflirm that

injurious to population,

we may

thefe convents have contributed to

promote

it,

by increafing by culture every

portion greater than
its

article in a

pro-

confumption.

The

mofl remarkable of the houfes of the Maronite

Monks
eafi:

is

Koz-haia,

fix

hours journey to the

exorcife, as in

of Tripoli.
firft

There they

the

ages of the church,

thofe

who

are
fiill


EGYPT AND
pofleflcd
ilill

SYRIA.

^r are

with devils;

for fuch perfons

to

be found in thele countries.

very

few

years ago, our merchants at Tripoli

faw

one of them
ing of the
to

who

put the patience and learnto the proof:

monks

This man,

outward appearance healthy, was fubjed:

to fudden convulllons,

which threw him

bit,

into

a kind of madnefs, fometimes fullen, at others

violent.

He

tore,

he

he foamed

at

th

mouth; his ufual expreffion was, The fim is my mother^ let me adore her. The priefts almofl drowned him with ablutions, tormented

him with
they

faflingand prayer, and, at length, as

reported,

drove out the

devil;

but,

from the account given me by more intelligent

obfervers,
210
it

appears that thofe polfeiied are

other than perfons afnid:ed with idiotfy,

madnefs,

and

epilepfies;
pojfejjion

and

it is

worth

re-

marking, that

and epilepfy are denoted

by the fame Arabic word fhj.

The Court of Rome,

ronites,

in affiliating the

Ma-

has granted them an Hofpitium, at

to

Rome,

which they may fend

feveral

of their
It

youth, to receive a gratuitous education.

ihould feem that this inflitution might intro-

duce among them the

{h) Kahal and Kabat.

ideas

and
is

arts

of Eu-

The

K here

the Spariljh jota.

rope;

32

TRAVELS

IN
bring

rope; but the pupils of this fchool, limited

to an education purely monaflic,

home
is

nothing but the Italian language, which

of

no

ufe,

and a flock of theological learning,

as little

from which

advantage can be derived;

reft.

they accordingly foon aflimilate with the

Nor has

a greater change been operated by the

three or four miffionaries maintained by the

French capuchins at Gazir, Tripoli, and Their labours confift in preachBairout.

ing
in
their

church,

in

inftrudiinjr

chil-

dren in the catechifm,

Thomas

Kempis,

and the Pfalms, and in teaching them to read

and write.

Formerly the

Jefuits

had two

miffionaries at their houfe at Antoura, and the

Lazarites have
miffion.

now
mofi:

fucceeded them in their

valuable advantage that
is,

The

has refulte^ from thefe apoftolical labours

that the art of writing has become more

com-

mon among theMaronites,

in this country,
I

and rendered them,

are in Egypt,

what the Copts

in poileffion

mean, they are

of all the pofls

of writers, intendants, and kiayas among the

Turks, and efpecially of thofe among their

allies

and neighbours, the Druzes.

4.

Sect.

GY

AND

SYRIA.

.33

Sect.
Of

III.

the Druzcs,

X KE Druzes,
attention of

or Derouz,

who engaged

the
fix-

Europe about the end of the

teenth century, are an inconfiderable people,

who,

in their

mode of

hfe,

form of govern-

ment, language, and cufcoms, bear a ilriking refemblance to the Maronites. Religion conilitutcs the principal difference

between them.
a

That of
is

the Druzes
is

was long

problem;
and
it

but the myftcry

at length unveiled,

nov/ not difficult to give a tolerably accuit,

rate account of

as v/ell as

of their origin,

with which

it is

conneded.
it

To
v/ill

gain a pro-

per idea of their hiftory,

to trace fails

be nccelTary

up

to their lirfc fourccs.

after the death

Twenty- three years

law, and

of

Maocca-

homet, the difputes between All, his fon-in-

Moawia, Governor of
firfl

Syria,

iioned the

fchifm in the empire

q'i

th e
-,

Arabs, and the two

fedls fubfiil: to this A-xy

but, in reality, this difference related only to

power

and the Mahometans, however divided

of

in opinion rcfpeiling the rightful lucceiTor

V0L..IL

th^

34

r R A y
(ij.
It

E L

^^

the prophet, were agreed with refpecl to their

dogmas

was not

until the following

century that the perufal of Greek bocks in(i)

The

radical caufc of this great dificrence w^as the

averhoii conceived againft Ali, by Aycflia, wife of

Maho-

met, becaufe, as
lity to the

It

is

faid,

he had difcovcred her infidethis.indif-

Prophet.

She never could pardon him

cretion,and, after

getting him

three times excluded from the

Califat, finding that,

by

his intrigues

he vvas likely to fuc-

ceed in the fourth attempt, fhe refolved to deftroy him by

open violence.
leveral

For

this

purpofe

flie

excited againft

Arab

chiefs,

and among

others,

him Amrou, Governor

of Egypt, and Moavvia, Governor of Syria.

The

latter

procured himfelf to be proclaimed Caliph^ or

city

SucceJJ'cr^ in

the

ofDamafcus.

Ali, in order todifpoflefs him, declared

war; but the impropriety

After fome
hofcilitie?, in

of his conduct ruined his affairs. v/ere equal

which the advantages

on both
f.n

fide?,

he perilhed at Koufa, by the hand of an Affaf-

or Eatenian.
;

His partisans elected his fon Hofain in

ill

his place

but this ycung man,

adapted to fuch difHcult

cii-cumllance-,

was Ihin

in a rencounter

by the

partifans
flill

of

Moawi.

Kis death rendered the two faclions

more
ing;

irrcconcileaUc. Tlieir hatred prevented their agree-

in the cxpofition of the

Koran.
in

The

dgclprs of the

refpeclivc
otiier;

parties took a pleafure

contradicting each

and hence arofe the divinon of the Mahometans

fjcls,

into

two

who

coiifidcr

each other as heretics.

The

Turks

follow that of

Omar

and Moawia,

whom

they hold

to be the legitimate fucceJors of the Prophet: the Perfians

are folio v.'ers of Ali.

trcduccd

EGYPT AND
Produced
fion

SYRIA.
till

35

among

the Arabs a fpirit of difcufthen, they

v/as,

and controverfy, to which,

were utter llrangers.

as

The

confequence

might be expeded, by reafoning on matand ters not fufceptibie of demonilration,

they divided into a multitude

guided by the abflrad; principles of an unintelligible logick,

of feds and opinions.

the
civil

At

this period,

too,

power loft

its

authority, and religion,

means of preierving its unity, fhared the fame fate, and the Mahometans now experienced what had

which from

that derives the

before fallen

the Chriftians.

The

nations

which had received the religion of Mahomet, mixed with it their former abfurd notions and the errors which had anciently prevailed over Aiia, again made their appearance, though
-,

altered in their forms.

The

Metempfychofis,

the dod:rine of a good and evil principle, and the renovation after
liad
fix

thjufand years, as

it

been taught by Zoroafter, were again re-

vived

among

the

Mahometans. In
and every

this politi-

cal and religious confuiion, every enthufiail:

became an
of a fed.

apoftle,

ajtoftle

the head

No

lefs

than fixty of thefe were

reckoned, remarkable for the numbers of their

followers^
all diifering in

fome points of faith,

and

36

TRAVELS
all

IN
Such

and

difavowing herefy and error.

was the ftate of thefe countries, when at the commencement of the eleventh century, Egypt became the theatre of one of the mofl
extravagant fcenes of enthufiafm and abfurdity ever recorded in hiflory.

The

following
writers.

account

is

extra6led

from the Eaftern

In the year of theHejira, 386 (A. D. 996) the third Caliph, of the race of the Fatmites, called Hakem-b'amr-ellah,fucceededto

the throne of Egypt, at the age of eleven years.

He was one of the moft extraordinary princes of whom hiftory has preferved the memory. He caufed the firil Caliphs, the companions of
Mahomet,
to

be curfed in the mofques, and af:

terwards revoked the anathema

He compelled
to

the Jews and Chriflians to abjure their religion, and then permitted

them

refume

it.

He

prohibited the
to

men,

making flippers for woprevent them from coming out of their

houfes.

He

burnt

one half of the city of

Vv'hile his foldiers pil-

Cairo for his diverfion,

laged the other.

Not contented with

thefe

extravai^ant actions, he forbade the pilp-rim-

age to Mecca, falling, and the five prayers;

and

at length carried his

madnefs

fo far as to

delire to pafs for

God

himfelf.

He

ordered a
regifter

EGYPT AND
regifler

SYRIA.

37

of thofe

who acknowledged him

to

be

fo,

and the number amounted to

fixteerj

thoufand.

This impious pretenfion was fupfalfe

ported by a
Perfia into

prophet,

who came from

Egypt ^ which impoftor, named Mohammed-ben-Ifmael, taught that it was

not necelTary to
cumcifion, to
faft or pray,

to pradtife cir-

make
;

the pilgrimage to Mecca,

that the prohibition of

or obferve feflivals

pork and wine was abfurd ; and that marriage

between brothers and
dren was lawful.
fiflers,

fathers

and chilwith

To

ingratiate himfelf

Hakem, he

maintained that this Caliph was

inftead of his
fignifies,

God

himfelf incarnate; and,

name Hakem-b' amr-ellah, which

TIakem-l?' amr-eh, governing

go-

verning by the order of God, he called

him

by his own

order.

Unluckily for the prophet, his new god had

not the power to proted;
his enemies,

who

flew

him from the fury of him in a tumult, al-

mofh
felf

in the

arms of the Caliph,

maflacred

who was himfoon after on Mount Mokattam,

had held converfatiou

where

he, as he faid,

with angels (kj.

(k)

Vide El-Makin, Hifl. Saracen. Lib.

I.

The

38

TRAVEL SIN
The
death of thefe tv/o chiefs did not pre:

vent the progrefs of their opinions

difciple

of Mohammad-ben-Ifniael, named

Hamzaindefa-

ben-Ahmud, propagated them with an

tigable zeal in Egypt, in Paleftinc,

and along

the coaft of Syria, as far as Sidon and Berytus.

His

profelytes,

it

feems, underwent the

for,

fame

fate as tb.e

Maronites ;

being perfe-

cuted by the fed; in power, they took refuge

in the

mountains of Lebanon, where they

;

were better able to defend themfelvcs

leaft it is certain,

at

that,

flioriiy after this era,

we
an

find

them

effcabliOied there,

and forming
their

independent

fociety,

li]^e

neigh

hours.

The
them
their
to

difference of their

opinions difpofes
interefl

be enemies, but the urgent

fafety

of

com.mon

forces

them

to

allow

mutual

toleration,

and they have always ap-

peared united, and have jointly oppofed, at

different
'

times,

the

Crufaders, the Sultans

of Aleppo,

the

Mamlouks, and
in their fituation.

the Ottolatter,
I.

mans.

The

conqueft of Syria by the

made no change
on
his return

Sclim

from Egypt, meditating no

lefs

than the conquefb of Europe, difdained

to

wafle his time before the rocks of Lebanon,

Soliman

EGYP
Soliman
11.

T A N D SYRIA.
either

3^

his fLiccsllbr, iiKciu^ntly

engaged

in important wars,

with the Knights

the

of

Rhodes,

the Perfians,

kingdom of

Yemen,
the

the Hungarians,

the Germans, or

Emperor Charles V. had no time to think Emboldened by this inatof the Druzes.
tention,

and not content with

their indepen-

dence,

they frequently defcended from their

mountains to pillage the Turks.

The Pachas
;

in vain attempted to repel their inroads

their

troops were invariably

routed or

repulfedj

and

it

was not

till

the year 1588 that Aniu-

rath III.
to

wearied

wth

the complaints

made

him, refolved,

at all events, to reduce thefe

rebels,

and had the good fortune to facceed.

His general, Ibrahim Pacha, marched from

Cairo, and attacked
nites

the Druzes and

Maro-

with

fo

much

addrefs an^^ vigour as to.

force
tains.

them

into their flrong holds, the

Diflention took place

mounamong their

chiefs,

of which

he availed himfelf to exadb

a contribution
piafters,

of upwards of one million of

and to impofe a tribute which has

expedition was
in the

continued to the prefent time.

It

appears that

this

the

epocha of a confiderable change

ftitution

con-

of the Druzes.

Till then they

had
lived

43

TRAVELS

IN
under the com-

lived in a fort of anarchy,

mand

of different Siiaiks, or Lords.

The
tribes,

nation was likev/ife divided into

two

fadlions,

fuch as

is

to

be found in

all

the

Arab

and which arc

Kaiji,

diflinguiflied into the party

and the party Tamani, (I)

administration,

To

iirn-

plify the

Ibrahim permitted
fliould

them only one

civil

Chief,

who

be refponoffice

iible for the tribute,

and execute the

of

magiftrate; and this governor, from the

nature of his ntuation, acquiring great authority,

became almoft the king of the republic

Vv^as

but as he
Druzes,

always chofen fi-om

among

the

confcquence followed which the

forefeen,

Turks had not

and

which

was

nearly fatal to their power.

For the chief

thus choien, having at his diipolal the whole

fbrenp-th

of the nation,

was able to give

it

it

unanimity and force, and

ao-ainfl:

naturally turned

the

Turks j

fince the Druzes,

by beto

comini"^ their fabie^is,

had not ceafed

be

their enemies.

They took care, however,

that

their ati:icks ihould be indire6>,

ap!.)_Mrances,

io as to fave

and only engaged

in fecret hoflili-

(/)

Tliefe f:.aioiis dlilinguifh thcrnfclvcs by the colour

is

of their Ha^Si that of the Kaills

white.

red, that of the Yaniinis

ties.

EGYPT AND
ties,

SYRIA.

41

more dangerous, perhaps,

this

than open

war.

About

time, that

is

the beginning of

the feventeenth century,

the power of the

Druzes attained

its greateft

height; which

it

owed

to the talents

and ambition of the cele-

Emir Fakr-el-din, commonly called Fakardin. No fooner was this prince adbrated

vanced

to be

Chief of that people than he

turned his whole attention to humble the

Ottoman power, and aggrandize himfelf

its

at

expenccj in this enterprize he difplayed

an addrefs feldom feen among the Turks.

He
and

firft

gained the confidence of the Porte,

loyalty

by every demon flration of

as the

and

fidelity;

Arabs, at that time, infefted the

plain of Balbec, and the countries

of Sour

and

Acre, he made war upon them, freed

the inhabitants from their depredations, and

thus rendered them defirous of living under

his

government.
city

Tlie

of

Bairout

was

fituated
it

ad-

vantageouily for his defigns, as

opened a
and,

communication with

foreigrn countries,

among

others, with the Venetians, the natural

enemies of the Turks.

Fakr-el-din availed

himfelf of the mifcondud of the Aga, expelled

4.2

T R A V
make

E L

N
ttiQ

kd

him, feized on the

city,

and even had

art to

a merit of

this aO:

of hoftility

with the Divan, by paying

ble tribute.

more confiderafame manof

He

proceeded

in tlie

ner at Saide, Balbec, and Sour, and, at length,

about the year 1613, faw himfelf

all

m.aflier

the country, as far as Adjaloun and Safad.

The Pachas
not
fee thefe

of Tripoli and Daraafcus could

encroachments with indifference ;

v^^ith

fometimes they oppofed him-

open

force,,

though

ineffcxftually,

and fometimes endeafecret in-

voured to ruin him at the Porte, by

fmuations
;

but

the Emir,

v^ho maintained

there his fpics and defenders, defeated Gwciy

attempt.

At

length,

however, the Divan began

to-

be alarmed

at the progrefs of the

Druzes, and

made
fear,

preparations for an expedition capable

of cru filing them.

Whether from

policy or

Fakr-el-din did not think proper to wait

this

Aorm.

He

had formed connedlions

built

in

Italy,

on which he

great

hopes, and
the fuc-

determined to go in perfon to

folicit

cours they had promifed him; perfuaded that

his prefence
friends,

would encreafe the

zeal of his

while his abfence might appeafe the

refentment of his enemies.

He

therefore

em-

barked

EGYPT AND SYRIA

barked
r.t

45

Balrout, and, after

refigning the

adminiftration to his fon Ali, repaired to the

court of the Medici, at Florence.

rival

The

ar^

of an Oriental prince in Italy, did not

attrad the public attention.

fail to

Enquiry

was made into his nation, and the origin of the Druzes became popular topics of refearch.

Their hiftory and religion were found

little

to be fo

known,

as to leave

it

a matter

of doubt whether they fliould be clafTed with

the

Mahometans

or Chriilians.
it

The Cruwas
fooii

fades

were called to mind, and

fuggefled that a people

who

had taken re-

fuge in the mountains, and were enemies to

the natives, could be no other than the offfpring of the Crufaders.

This
prove

idle conceit

was too favourable

to endeavour
to

to

Fakr-el-din
it
:

for

him

dif-

he was

artful

enough, on the con-

trary, to pretend

he was related to the houfc

of Lorraine 5 and the miffionafies and merchants,

who

promifed themfelves

new

opening for converfions and commerce, encouraged his pretenfions.

is

When

an opinion

in vogue, every
its

one difcovers new proofs

of

certainty.

The

learned in etymology,

ilruck with the refemblance of the names,

infifledj

44
infifled,

TRAVELS
that Driizes and

IN
formed

Dreux mufl: be the

fame word, and, on

Crufaders,

this foundation,

the fyilem of a pretended colony of French

who under the condud: of

Comte
Leba-

de DreuXi had formed a fettlement in

non. This hypothefis, however, has beencompleatly overthrown,

by the remark that the

is

name

of the Druzes

to be

found in the

Itinerary of

Benjamin of Tudela,
ought

who

travel-

led before the time ot the Crufades.

Indeed

the futility of
apparent, at
tion,

it

to

have been

fufficiently

firil:,

from the

fingle confidera-

that

had they been defcended from

any nation of the Franks, they mufl have

retained, at leaft, the traces of

fome European

language
diftrict,

for a people, retired into a feparate

diflindl

and living

from the natives of

their
is

the country,

do not

lofe

language.
very pure

That of
origin.

the Druzes, however,

Arabic, without a fingle word of European

The

real derivation

of the

name of
from

thefe people has been long in our polTeffion,

without our knowing

it.

It originates

the founder of the fed of

Ifmael,

Mohammad-benEl-Dorzi, and not

:

who was furnamed

as
it is

El-Darari,

ufually printed
fo

the con-

fuiion of thefe

two words,

uiihke in our
writing.

EGYPT AND
writing,
arifes

SYRIA.
figure of the

4^

from the

two

Arabic

letters

r and z, which have only this

difference,

that the

z has a point over

or effaced in the

it,

frequently omitted,
fcripts f/^^J'

manu-

After a flay of nine years in Italy, Fakrel-din returned to refume the government of
his country.

Daring

his abfence,

hisfonAli

had repulfed the Turks, appeafed

and maintained
affairs in tolerable

difcontents,

good order.
to

Nothing remained for the Emir, but

employ

the knowledge he could not but have acquired,

in perfedting

the internal adminiflration of

government, and promoting the welfare of the

nation
arts,
;

but inftead of the ufeful and valuable

to the fri-

he wholly abandoned himfelf

volous andexpenfive, for which he had imbibed

a pailion while in Italy.
villas; {m)

He
Pvl.

built

numerous

confl:ru(5led baths,

and planted garMitchcl, Dragoman,

This difccvcry

Is

due to

Barata'ire \ of France, at Saidc, of which place he

was a
which

native

he has written a memoir

o;i

the Druzes, of

he gave one of the two copies he haJ to the Chevalier de

Taules, Conful at Saide, and the other to Baron de Tott

when he was
f
Burataire^

there, in 1777, to infpe6l that factory.

a fubject of the

Tuikiih government, pnvilc;;eJ by one

ths
I'crtc,

of the European Miniftcrs, in amity with

anJ

by that means

placed upon a footing with the Franks, with refpeit to the payment of duties,

&c.

Each Minider
which he

poiTelfes a

certain

number of

th.-fe

Barati

at

his

iii'pjfal,

cMiir.Dt cxcEcd,

T.

dens

46

TRAVELS

IN

dens; he even prefamed, without refpedl td

the prejudices of his country, to employ the

ornaments of painting and fculpture,

withftanding thefe are prohibited

notthe

by

Koran.

The

confequences
:

of this

conducfl foon

manifelled themfelves

the Druzes,

who

paid

the fame tribute as in time of war, became

diflatisfied.

The Yamini faction were

murmured
at

rouf^d;
ot

the people
the prince*

the

expences

and the luxury he difplayed re-

newed

the jealoufy of the Pachas.

They

at-*

tempted to levy greater tribute:

the forces of the Pachas,

hollilities

again commenced, and Fakr-el-din repulfed

who

took occadon,
fufpedied
III.

from

this

refiflance,

to render

hy the Sultan himfelf.

cenfed that one of his

him Amurath

in-

fubjcifls

Hiould dare to

enter into a competition with him, refolved

on

his deftruclion

and the Pacha of Damafall his

cu3 received orders to march, v/ith

forces, againfl Bairout, the ufual relidence

of

.Fakr-el-din

while forty galleys

it

inverted,

and

entirely

blocked

up, by

fea.

The Emir, who depended on

tune,
firfl

his

good for-

and fuccours from

Italy,

determined at

to brave the florm.

His fon, Ali,

who
com-

EGYPT AND SYRIA

tommanded
he bravely
great
at Safad,

47

was ordered

to

oppofe

the progrefs of the Turkiili army, and in fad

refifced

them, notwithftanding the

forces;
in

difparity

of his

but

after

having repulfed the enemy

ments, being
fairs v^ere flain in a third,

two engage-

the face of af-

greatly changed, and every thin^^

went
lofs

to

ruin.

Fakr-el-din, tcrriiied at the

of his troops, afflided at the death of his

fon,
life,

and enfeebled by age and a voluptuous

loft

both courage and prefence of mind.

fecond fon to

He

no longer faw any refource but in a peace,

fent
liis

which he

folicit

of the
to fe-

Turkifh Admiral,

whom

he attempted

duce by prefents; but the

Adiiiiral, detaining

both the prefents and the Envoy, declared he would have the prince himfelf. Fakr-el-din,
intimidated, took to flight, and was purfacd

by the Turks, now mafters of the country.

He

took refuge on the flcep eminence of Niha,

ineffj (flu ally

where they befieged him

fhortly after, the

for a
:

whole year, when they left him at liberty

companions of
to the

but,

his adveriity,

wearied with theif fuiFerings, betrayed and

delivered

him up

Turks.

Fakr-el-din,

though

in

the hands of his enemies,

con-

ceived hopes of pardon, and fuffered himfelf

to

4^

TRAVELS
firfl

IN
where

to be carried to Conftantinople,

Ama-

rath, pleafed to behold at his feet a prince fo

celebrated, at

treated

him with

that bene-

volence which
riority;

arifes

from the pride of fupeinftigations of his

fits

but foon returning to his former

to the

jealouiies, yielded

courtiers, and, in one

paffion, ordered

of his violent

of

him

to be ftrangled, about

the year 1631.

After the death of Fakr-el-din, the pofterity

of that prince

ftill

continued in polfeffion

of the Government, though at the pleafure

and

as

vaiTals,

of the Turks.
at

This family

failing in the male-line,

the beginning of

the prefent century, the authority devolved,

by the

election of the Shaiks,

in

on the houfe of

Shehab,

which

it ftill

continues.
v/hofe

The only

name deferves to be preferved, is the Emir Melhem, who reigned from 1740 to 1759; in which inter-

Emir of

that houfe,

val he retrieved the lofles of the Druzes, reftored

and

them

to that

confequence which they

had

lofl:

by the

defeat of Fakr-el din.

life,

To-

wards the end of his

1754, Melhem,

about the year

wearied with the cares of

his authority,
to live

Government, abdicated
in religious
4.

retirement, after the

manner of
the

EGPYT AND
the Okkals
occalioned
;

SYRIA.

49

but the troubles that fucceeded

him once more to refume the reins of government, which he held till 1759, when he died, univerfally regretted.

He whom

left

three fons, m.inors

the

eldejd:

of

ought, according to the cuftom of the

country, to have fucceeded him; but being

only eleven years of age,

the authority de-

volved on his uncley,Manfour, agreeable to a

law vtry general

arrived
at

in Alia,

which

wills

the

people to be governed by a ibvereign

years of maturity.
little

who has The young

prince was but

pretenfions;

hlted to maintain his

but a Maronite, named Sad-el-

Kouri, to

whom Melhem

had entrufted

his

education, took this upon himfclf.

to fee his pupil

Afpiring

a powerful prince, that a

he he

might himfelf become

powerful

viilr,

made

every exertion to advance his fortune.

retired

He

firfl

with him to Dj^bail, in the

Kefraouan, where the

Emir Youfef

polieiled

large domains, and there undertook to conciliate the

Maronitcs, by embracing every op-

portunity to ferve both individuals and the nation.

The

great revenues of his pupil, and

the moderation of his expenditure, amply furniOied

him with Vol. li.

the means.

The farm

of
the

55

TRAVELS
with

IN
feveral

the Kefraouan Shaiks,

was divided between

whom

the Porte was not very

^^'ell fatisiied.

Sad treated for the whole with

the Pacha of Tripoli, and got himfelf appoint-

ed fole Receiver.

The

Motoualis of the val-

ley of Balbec had,

for

fome years

before,

made
tile

feveral

encroachments on Lebanon, and

at the near

Maronltes began to be alarmed

thefe

approach of

intolerant

Mahometans,

Sad purchafed of the Pacha of Damafcus a

make war upon them, and, ia The 1763, drove them out of the country. ], that time divided into two Grazes were at
psrmiffion to
ilvftlons

fn)

Sad united his

interefl

with

thofe

who

oppofed Manfour,

and fecretly
raife the

prepared the plot which was to

ne-

phew on
At

the ruin of

tlie

uncle.

this period,

the

Arab Daher, who had

Galilee,

made himfelf mafter of

progrefs and pretenfions

and fixed

his

refidence at Acre, difquieted the Porte by his

:

To oppofe him,

ths

Divan had

jull;

united the Pachalics of

Da-

mafcus, Saide, and Tripoli, in the hands of

(;;)

The

piirty

/w.'//7,

and the party

Tama7.11,

The names

btJiiie at this

day by the two families which are at the head ami of the Lrfbccks.

of the

Djcv'.hil:!^

Ofman

EGYPT AND
Ofman and
that
his children;

SYRIA.
and
it

st

was evident,
remote.
too

an open war

was not very

the

Manfour,

who
refift

dreaded

Turks

much

to

them, made ufe of the poa zeal

licy ufual

on fuch occafions, pretending

for their fervice, while he fecretly favoured

their

enemy.

This was a

fufficient

motive

for Sad to purfue meafures directly oppofite.

He

fupported the Turks againft the faftion of

lb

Manfour, and manoeuvred with

and place Youfef in

much good
Govern-

fortune or addrefs as to depofe that Emir, in

1770,

his

ment.

In the following year. All Bey declared

war, and attacked Damafcus,
Youfef, called

on by the Turks, took part in the quarrel, but without being able to draw the Druzes
from
their mountains, to enter into the

army

of the Ottomans.
pugnance, at
all

Befides times, to

their natural re-

make war out of

this occafion, too

their country, they were,

on

much
tions,

divided at

home

to quit their habita-

and they had reafon to congratulate

The battle of Damafcus enfued, and the Turks, as we have already feen, were compleatly routed. The
themfelves on the event.

Pacha of

Saide,

efcaping from this defeat,

and

y^

TRAVELS
Emir Youfef.
flight

IN
fafety in the in

and not thinking himfelf in town, fought an afylum even

the

that

houfe of unfa-

The moment was

vourable, but the face of affairs foon changed,

by the

of

Mohammad

Bey.

The

Emir, concluding that Ali Bey was dead, and not imagining that Daher was powerful enough
fmgly
to

maintain the quarrel, declared openly

againfl
fiege,

him.

Saide

was threatened with a

fifteen

and he detached
facftion

hundred men

of his

to

its

defence; while himfelf,

in perfon, prevailing
ronites
to

on the Druzes and

Ma-

follow him, made an

incurfion,

with twenty-five thoufand peafants, into the

valley of Bekaa, and, in the abfence of the

Motoualis,

who had

joined

the

army of

Daher,
iire

laid the

whole country wafte, with

to Tyre.

and fword, from Balbec

While
city,
five

the Druzes, proud of this exploit,

in
liforder

were marching

towards the latter

hundred Motoualis, informed of

flew from Acre, enflamed

what had happened,

with rage and

defpair,

and

fell v^ith

fuch ima

petuofity on their army, as to give

pleat overthrow.

them

comand

Such was the

furprife

confufion

of the Druzes, that,

imagining

themfelves attacked by Daher himfelf, and

betrayed

EGYPT AND
betrayed

SYRIA.
as they fled.

53

by

their

companions, they turned

their fwords
fleep

on each other
of

The

declivities

Djezin,

and the pineof the fugi-

woods which were

tives,

in the route

were ftrewed with dead, but few of

periihed by the hands of the

whom
lis.

Motoua-

The Emir

Youfef, afhamed of this defeat,

efcaped to Dair-el-Kamar, and, fhortly after,

attempted to take revenge

but, being again

defeated in the plain between Saide and Sour,

(Tyre), he was conftrained to refign, to his

uncle

Man four,
is

the ring, which,

among

the

Druzes,

the

fymbol of authority.

In

1773, he was reftored by a new revolution ^ but he could not fupport his power but at
the expence of a
fore,
civil

war.

In order, thereinto

to

prevent

Bairout falling
fadlion,

the

hands of the adverfe

he requefted

the afTiftance of the Turks, and demanded, of

the Pacha of Damafcus, a

abilities to

defend that

man of fufficient city. The choice fell

his fubfequent
is

on an adventurer, who, from

fortune, and the part he to be m.ade

now ading,
Is

merits

known.
a

This man, named Ahmad,

native of

Bofnia, and fpeaks the Sclavonian as his

mother

54

TRAVELSIN
he converfes
in

ther tongue, as the Ragufan captains, with

whom
flying

preference to thofe of
It
is

every other

nation, afiert.

faid,

that

from

his country, at the age of fixteen,

to efcape the confequences of an

violate his filler-in-law,

attempt to

he repaired to Conof the means of

fold himfelf to

ftantinople, w^here,

deftitute

procuring a fubfiflence,

he

the Have-merchants, to be conveyed to Egypt;

and, on his arrival at Cairo, was purchafed by

Ali Bey,
louks.

who

placed

him among

his

Mamhimdan-

Ahmad was
felf

not long in diftinguiihing

by

his courage

and addrefs.

Mis patron

employed him on
tion of fuch Beys

feveral occafions, in

gerous coups de main, fuch as the affafiina-

andCachefs

as

he fufpe(5ted

of which commiiTions he acquitted himfelf fo well as to acquire the name of Djezzary

which
of Ali,
dent.
(o)

lignifies

Cut-throat fa).

With

this

claim to his friendfhip, he enjoyed the favour

until
it

was difturbed by an acci-

This Djezzar

is

the monfter fo well defcribed

by Baron
tranflatcs

de Tott, in Part IV. of his Memoirs.

the

The Baron
in the

word Djezzar, Butcher.

in

He was

beginning of

1787

open revolt againft the Porte.

T*

This

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

55

Tills jealous Bey, having prolcribed one of

his benefadors, called Saleh Bey,

commrcnded
Either from

Djezzar to cut off his head.

humanity or fome fecret friendfliip for the devoted vidim, Djezzar hefitated, and even
remonftrated againft the order. But, learning

the next day that

Mahommad

Bey had exe-

cuted the commiffion, and that All had fpo-

ken of him not very favourably, he thought himfelf a loft man, and, to avoid the fate of
Saleh

Bey, efcaped unobferved, and reached

Conftantinople.

He

there

folicited

em-

ployments fuitable to his former rank, but

meeting, as
is

ufual in capitals, v/ith a great

number of rivals, he purfued another plan, and went to feek his fortune in Syria, as a foldier. private Chance conduced him among the Druzes, where he was hofpitably
entertained, even in the houfe of the Kiaya of

the
to

Emir Youfef.
Damafcus,
of Aga, with a
that
is

From

thence he repaired
obtained the

v/here he foon

title

coloiirsy

to

was thus
to the

fituated

command of five pair of fay, of fifty men and he when fortune deftined him
^

Government of Bairout. Djezzar was no fooner eftablifhed

it

there,

than he took poiTeflion of

for the

Turks.

Youfef

56

TRAVELS
\^^as

IN

Youfef

confounded
at

at this proceeding.

He

demanded jufHce
into a treaty

Damafcus; but findwith

contempt,

ing his complaints

entered

treated

with Daher, and con-

cluded

an

ofFenfive

and

defenfive

alliance

with him,

at Ras-ei-aen,

near to Sour.

No

fooner was Daher united

with the Druzes

than

lie

laid fiege to Bairout,

by land, whilfl
fervice

two Ruffian
chafed by

frigates,

whofe

was purit

fix

hundred purfes, cannonaded

by

fea.

Djezzar was compelled to fubmit

to force, and, after a vigorous refiftance, gave

up the

city,

and furrendered himfelf prifoner.

preference he had given

Shaik Daher, charmed with his courage, and

flattered

with

the

him

in the furrender,

conduded him

to Acre,

and lliewed him every mark of kindnefs. He even ventured to trufl: him with a fiiiall expedition into Paleftine
;

but Djezzar, on ap-

proaching Jerufalem, v/ent over to the Turks,

and returned

to

Damafcus.

The war

of

Mohammad

Bey breaking
to

out,

Djezzar offered his fervice

the Captain

Pacha, and gained his confidence.

He

ac-

companied him
that

to

the

fiege

of Acre,

and

admiral,

having deftroyed

Daher, and

finding no perfon m.ore proper than Djezzar

to

EGYPT AND
country,

SYRIA.
Saide.

57

to accomplilh the defigns of the Porte in that

named him Pacha of

Lord
to

Being now, in confequence of

tion,

this revolu-

fuperior
is

the

Emir

Youfef,

Djezzar
as

mindful of injuries in proportion

to accufe himfclf

he has reafon

of ingrati-

tude.

By

a condudt truly Turkifli, feigning

alternately gratitude
alternately

and

refentment,

he

is

on terms of difpute and reconcilicontinually exacting

as

ation with him,

as the price

money
that,

of peace, or

indemnity for war.

well

His

artifices

have fucceedcd fo

within the fpace of five years, he has extorted

from

the

Emir
a

four

millions

of French

money, (above

hundred and

fixty thouiand

pounds), a fum the more aftonifliing as the

farm of the country of the Druzes did not

then amount to one hundred thouiand
(four thoufands pounds.)
livres,

In 1784, he

made war on him, depofed

Ifmael.

him, and bcilowed the government en the

Emir of the country of Hafbeya, named

Youfef, having once more purchafed his favor,

returned, towards the end of the famie year, to

Dair-el-Kamar, and even courted his confidence fo far as to wait on

him

at

Acre, from
return, but

whence nobody expedted him

to

D'ezzar

58

TRAVELSIN
is

Djezzar
there

too cunning to

flied

blood while
:

are

any hopes of getting money

he

releafed

the prince, and fent

him back with

every

mark of friendfliip. Since that period, the Porte has named him Pacha of Daroafcus,
where he now
the
relides.

There,

flili

retaining

Sovereignty

of the PachaUc of Acre,

and of the country of the Druzes, he has

feized

on Sad, the Kiaya of the Emir, and,

under pretext of his being the author of the

troubles, has threatened to ftrike off his head.

The
man,

Maronites, alarmed for the fafety of this

whom

they revere, have offered nine

his

hundred purfes for

ranfom.

The Pacha
as

demands a thoufand^
by
thefe repeated

and

if,

will pro-

bably be the cafe, their

money be exhauiled contributions, woe to the

1

prince and his miniiler

that of

on their

fate

depends

many

others

and, indeed, they mayit,

be

faid to

have deferved
the

for

it

v/as the in-

capacity of

one, and the

ambition

of

the other, w^hich, by inviting the

interfere in

Turks to
has

the

affairs

of the Druzes,
to the fafety
in the

given fo fatal a
quillity

blow

and tranordinary
it

of the nation j that,

it

courfe of thino;s,

will

be

lonp- before

can

pofub-iy

EGYPT AND
poffibly

SYRIA.
profperity

5$

recover

its

former

and

power.

Let us return to the

religion of the
faid

Druzes.

What has

been already

of the opinions of
as

Mahommad-ben-Ifmael may be regarded

the fubftance of
it.

They

pradife neither

circumcifion, nor prayers, nor faftingj they

obferve

neither

feftivals,

nor

prohibitions.

They
riage

drink wine, eat pork, and allow marlifters,

between brothers and

though not
this

between fathers and children.

From

we

may

conclude, with reafon, that the Druzes

:

have no religion

yet,

one

clafs

of them muft

be excepted, whofe religious cuftoms are very

peculiar.

Thofe who compofe

of the
the
nation
profane-,

it

are

to

the

reft

what the
they

initiated

were

to

affume

the

name of

Okkals,

which means
the

fpiritualills,

and bellow
of

on

vulgar the epithet

of

Djahely or ignorant; they have various degrees

initiation,

the

higheft

orders
are

of
dif-

which
to
fo

require

celibacy.

Thefe

tinguifliable

by the White Turban they

a

afte(ft

wear

as

fymbol of their purity; and

this

proud are they of

fuppofed purity,

that they

think themfelves fuUied

If

hy even
eat out

touching a profane perfon.

you

of

io
of their

TRAVELS

IN
they

plate, or drink out of their cup,

break them ^ and hence the cuftom, fo general in this country,

of ufing vafes, with a fort

of cock, which

may

be drank out of without

lips.
:

touching them with the

tices are

All their prac-

enveloped in myfleries their Oratories

always ftand alone, and are conftantly fituated

on eminences
afTembiies,

in thefe they hold their fecret

to

which women

are admitted.

It

is

pretended they perform ceremonies there

in prefence of a fmall ftatue refembling an

ox or a

calf;

whence fome have pretended

befides

to prove that they are defcended from the

Samaritans.

But,

that the

fad

is

not well afcertained, the worihip of the ox

may be deduced from other fources. They have one or two books which
has deceived their jealoufy
;

they

conceal with the greateft care; but chance

for, in a civil

war,

which happened fix or feven years ago, the Emir Youfef, who is DJa/jel, or ignorant, found one among the pillage of one of their I am aiTured, by perfons who oratories.
have read
Jargon,
renders
ellah
it,

that

it

contains only a myftic

doubtlefs,

the obfcurity of which,

it is

valuable to adepts.
there fpoken
of,

Hakem Bamrby v/hom they

mean

EGYPT AND
inean God,
Caliph.
It

SYRIA.
of another
life,

-^i

incarnated in the perfon of the

Hkewife

treats

of a

place of punifhment, and a place of happinefs,

where the Okkals

fl:iall,

of courfe, be of pe^-

mofl diftinguifhed.

Several degrees

fedion are mentioned, to which they arrive

by

fucceffive trials.

In other refpeds, thefe

fedtaries

have

all

the infolence,
:

and
bat

all

the

fears,

of fuperftition

they are not

communiit is

cative, becaufe they are w^eakj

pro-

bable that, were they powerful, they would

be promulgators and intolerant.

The
fpirit,

red;

of the Druzes, fcrangers to this

are

wholly indifferent about religious

matters.

The

ChriHians,

who

live in

their

country, pretend that feveral of

in the Metempfychofis
;

them

believe

that others worfliip

all

the fun, moon, and

fible;
for, as

ftars,

which

is

pof-

among the Anfirians, every one, left to his own choice, follows the opinion that pleafes him moil: and thefe opinions are
;

thofe
ly to

which

prefent themfelves moft natural-

unenlightened minds.

When among
Ma-

the Turks, they affedt the exterior of

hometans, frequent the Mofques, and perform their ablutions and prayers. Amor^
the

Maronites,

they

accompany them

to

church.

ti

TRAVELS
like

IN

church, and,
water.

them, make ufe of hot^

Many

of them,

importuned by the

miffionaries, fufFer themfelves to be baptized

and,

if foUcited

by the Turks, receive

cir-

cumcifion,

and conclude by dying neither

Chriflians nor

Mahometans ^ but they

of
civil

are

not fo indifferent in matters

licy ffj.
(p)

po-

The

above account of the Druzes correfponds ex-

ally with the H'ljhrical

Memoir on

that people, tranflated

from the manufcript of

contains extra^is

M.

Venture de

Paradis^ which

from

their [acred hooks^

catechijni^

&c

The Memoir
Author,

in queftion,

confirms the accuracy of our

it,

who had

never feen
latter

nor was acquainted with

M.
eafr,

Venture.

The

gentleman and

M.

Sugufte,

a moft amiable mart, and a well informed traveller in the

who have juft done the tranflator the honour

in
it

of a

vifit,

concur

beftowing the higheft commendations on the

the moft

prefent work, and do not hefitate to pronounce

accurate modern book that has appeared refpedting Syria

and Ejypt.
tino;uiilied

To

their

eulogium may be added the

dlf-

approbation of

M.

de St. Prieft, the late

Am-

baflador of the Court of France and Conftantinople,

which

he has exprefled in the ftrongeft terms.

T.

Sect,

^GYPT AND
Sect.

SYRIA.
IV.

63

Of the government of the

J

Dnizes,

HE

Dmzes,

as well as the Maronites,

may be
people,
perty,

divided into

two

clafTes,

the

common

and the people of eminence and prodiftinguiHied

by the

title

of Shaiks,

and Emirs, or defcendants of Princes.

greater part are cultivators, either as

The

Farmers

or proprietors
tance,

every

man

lives

on

his inheri-

improving his mulberry-trees and vinein

yards

fome diftridts they grow tobacco, cotfome

grain, but the quantity of theic
It appears that, at iirfl, all

ton, and
is

inconfiderable.

the lands were, as formerly in Europe, in the

hands of a fmall number of families.

to render
etors

But,

them

produdtive, the great proprito fell part

is

were forced

of them, and

let

leafes,

become the chief fource of the power of the ftate by multiplying the number of perfons interelled in the
fubdivifion
:

which

public weal

there

iliii exifls,

however, fome

traces of the original inequality,

which even

at this day produces pernicious eifeds.

The
gives

great

property
3

poPiC&d by fome

families,

$4
gives

TRAVELSIN
them
too

much
;

influence in all

the

meafures of the nation

tereils

and their private in-

have too great w^eight in every public

tranfadlion.

Their

hiftory,

for

fome years

back, affords
all

fufiicient proofs

of this; lince

the

civil or foreign

w^ars in

which they
in the

have been engaged have originated

bition
cipal

amthe

and perfonal
families,

viev^s of fome of the prinas

fuch

the

Lefbeks,

Djambelats, the Ifmaels of Solym.a, 6cc.

Shaiks of thefe houfes,

The

who

alone pofTefs one

tenth part of the country, procured creatures

by

their

money, and,
in
their

at laft, involved all the

It

Druzes

diffeniions.

tnuO:

be

owned, however,
ilid;

that, pofTibly, to this

con-

between contending

parties the

whole

nation owes the good fortune of never having

been enflaved by

its

chief.

This

chief, called
is

Hakim, or governor,

alfo

Emir, or Prince,
neral,

a fort of king, or ge-

who

unites in his

own

perfon the civil

and military powers. His authority is fometimes tranfmitted from father to fon, fometimes from one brother to another, and the
fucceffion
is

determined rather by force than,

any certain laws. Females can in no cafe pretend

to lucceed to this dignity.

They

are already

excluded

EGYPT AND
excluded from fucceffion in
confequently, can
tical.
flill lefs

SYRIA.
civil affairs,

65

and,

exped:

it

in poli^

In general> the Aliatic governments are

too turbulent, and their adminiftration renders

military
talents too necellary to

admit of the
the Druzes,

fovereignty of w^omen.

Among
to

the male line of any family being extinguiflied> the

government devolves

in polTeffion of the greateft

frages and refources*

him who is number of fuffirft

But the

flep

is

to obtain the approbation of the Turks,

of

whom

he becomes the

vaffal

and tributary.

It even happens, that, not unfrequently to aiTert

their fupremacy, they

name

the

Hakem, conin tha

trary to the wifhes of the

nation, as
raifed
this

cafe

of

Ifmael

Hafbeya,

to

that

dignity
lafls

by Djezzar^
it is
it

but

conftraint

no longer than

maintained by that

violence

which gave
is

birth.

The

office

of

the governor

to

watch over the good order

Emirs, Shaiks,

of the

ftate,

and

to prevent the

and

villages,

from making war on each other

ia cafe of difobedience, he

may employ
civil

forcew

He

is

alfo at the

head of the

power, and
to

names the Cadis, only, always referring

himfelf the power of life and death,
ledls

He

col-

the tribute, from

II,

which, he annually
pays

Vol.

m
pays
to the

ITRAVELSIM
Pacha a
ftated

fum.

This

tn

bute varies,
ders
itfelf

in proportion as the nation ren-

more or

lefs

formidable.

At the
to

beginning of

this century, it

amounted
pounds),

one

hundred and
three

fixty

purfes,
thirty

(eight thoufand

hundred

and

but
it

Melhem
iixty.

forced the

Turks
This

to reduce

to

In 1784,

Emir Youfef paid

tribute,

eighty and

promifed ninety.
called Miri,
is

which

is

impofed on the mulberry-trees,

All fown land,

vineyards, cotton, and grain.

pays in proportion to
mulberries
is

its

extent; every foot of

or three

taxed at three Medins,

(not quite

Sols, nine Deniers,

two-pence).

A hundred feet of
forty

vineyard, pays a Piafter, or

Medins, and freih meafurements are

often made, to preferve ajuil proportion.

The
con-

Shaiks and Emirs have no, exemption in this

refpedl,

and

it

may be

truly faid, they

tribute to the public flock in proportion to

their fortune.

The

colledlion

is

made almoU
his con-

without expence.

Each man pays

tingent at Dair-el-Kamar, if he pleafes, or to

the coiledtors of the prince,

cuit
lilks.

who make a cirafter the

is

round the country,

crop of
for the

The 4

furplus of this tribute

it is

prince, fo that

his interefl: to reduce the

demands

EGYPT AND
demands of the Turks,
as

SYRIA.
it

67
like-

would be

wife to augment the impofl; but this meafure requires the fand:ion of the Shaiks,

who
Their
and
con-

have the privilege of oppofing

confent
is

it.

neceilary, likevv^ife,

for peace
mull:

war.

In thefe cafes,

the

Emir

voke general affembiies, and lay before them

the flate of his affairs.

There, every Shaik,

has any reputation for
is

and every Pcafint,

who

courage or underilanding,
his fuffrage
;

entitled to give

fo that this

government may be
mixture

confidered

as

well-proportioned

of monarchy,

ariftocracy,

and democracy.
:

Every thing depends on circumflances

governor be a
if

if

the

man

of ability, he

is

abfolute

weak, a cypher.
fixed laws
j

This proceeds from the

a

want of
Afia,

want common
all

to all

and the radical caufe of

in

the dif-

orders

the

governments of the Afiatic

nations.

Neither the chief, nor the individual Emirs,

maintain troops
;

they have only perfons at-

tached to the domefdc fervice of their houfes,

and

few black

flaves.

When

the nation

makes war, every man, whether Shaik or Peafant, able to bear arms, is called upon to
m.arch.-

He

takes with

him

a little

bag of
flour.

6$
fioiir,

YRAVELSIN
a miifqnet,

fome

bullets,

afmall quantity

of powder, made in his village, and repairs to

the rendezvous appointed by the governor.
If
it

he a

civil v/ar, as

fometimes happens, the

fervanis, the farmers,

and

their friends, take

up arms
fam.ily,

for their patron, or the chief of their

and repair to his ftandard.

In fuch

cafes, the parties irritated, frequently

feem on

the point of proceeding to the lail extremities

j

but they feldom have recourfe to

a6ls

of

violence, or attempt the death of each other

mediators always interpofe, and the quarrel

^ppeafcd the m^ore, readily, as each patron

is is

obliged to provide his followers with provificns

and ammunition.
effe(il:s

This fyflem, which

in civil

produces happy

troubles,

is

attended with great inconvenience in foreign

vvars, as fuiiiciently

appeared in that of 1784.

that the whole

Djezzar,

who knew
at

m.aintained at

army was the expence of the Emir Younothing but delay,

M,

aimed

and the
at

Druzep,

who

were not difpleafed

being

fed for doing nothing, prolonged the operations

s

but the Emir, weaned of paying, conthe terms of

..cluded a treaty,

which

v/ere hot

a little rigorous for

him, and, eventually, for

is

the whole nation, fincc nothing

more

certain

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

6^^

tain than that the inters fcs of a prince

fuhjedls are always infeparable.

and his

The

ceremonies to which

have been a

witneis on thefe occafions, bear a ilriking re-

femblance to the cuftoms of ancient

tinies.

When

the

Emir and
at

the Shaiks had detercrycr.?, in

mined on war,
tain; and

Dair-el-Kaniar,

the

evening, afcendsd the fiimmits of the

there began
to

moun-

to cry

with a loud

voice: To war,

war-, take your guns, take

Shaiks, mount your horps^
the

your

pijlols',

noble

elves arm yourf

with

lance

rendezvous

to-morrow

at

and Jab re', Dazr -cl-Kamar.

Zeal of God!

mons was repeated

is

Zeal of combats! This fumheard in the neighbouring villages,

there, and, as the

whole country

nothing but a chain of lofty mountains, and

vallics,

deep

the proclamation paiTed in a fev/

hours to the frontiers.

the
fhillnefs

Thefe

voices,

from

of the

nic-ht,

th.e lono-

refoundin'^

echoes, and the nature of the fubjedt, li-d

fomething awful and

terrible in their cffccl.

Three days
tions

after,

fifteen

thoufand armed meii

rendezvouzed

at

Dair-el-Kamar, and opera-

might have been immediately commenced,

V/e

70

TRAVELS
We may eafily

IN
this

imagine that troops of

kind no way refemble our European

diersj

fol-

they have neither uniforms, nor diforder.

cipline, nor

They

are

a crov/d of
legs,

peafants with fhort coats,

naked

and
are

muikets in their hands; differing from the

Turks and
all foot;

Mamlouks,

in

that

they

the Shaiks

and Emirs alone havlittle

ing horfes, which are of

ufe

from the
therQ

rugged nature of the country.

can only be a war of ports.

War

The Druzes
to ftand the

never rifk themfelves in the plain, and with

reafon, for they

would be unable

ihock of cavalry, having no bayonets to their

muikets.

Their wliok

art conlifts in

climb-

ing rocks, and creeping

the more dangerous
fire

among
as

the

builTies

and
is

blocks of ftone, from v/hence their

;

fire

they are covered,

at

their

eafe,

and by 'hunting,

and

military fports, have acquired the

hitting a
are

habit of

mark with
to

great dexterity.

They

accufiomed

fudden inroads, furprifes

by night,
dc jnain,

ambufcades,

and

all

thofe coups

which

require to attack luddenly,

fight

and come to

clofe

with the enemy.

fuccefs,
eafily

Ardent in improving
diipirited,

their

and

prompt

to

refume

their
j,

courage

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.
two

71

courage; daring even to temerity, and fometlmes

ferocious, they poiTefs above all,
eflential to the excellency
ilridtlv

qualities
-,

of any troops

they

obey their leaders, and are endowed

at

with a temperance and vigour of health,

this day

unknown
in the

to

moft

civilized nations.

In the campaign of 1784, they paiTed three

months

open

air,

without

tents,

or any

other covering than a flieep-fkiuj yet were

there not

more deaths or maladies than

remained in their houfes.

if

they had

Their

provifions confifted, as at other times, of fmall

loaves baked on the afhes, or on a brick,

raw

onions, cheefc, olives, fruits, and a

little

wine.

The

table of the chiefs

was almofl

as frugal,

and we may

affirm, that they fubfifted a

hun-

dred days, on what the fame number of

En-

slilhmen or Frenchmen would not have lived

ten.

They have no knowledge of

the
in a

the fcience
artillery,

of

fortification,

management of

or encampments, nor,

word, any thing

which conftitutes the art of war. But, had they among them a few perfons verfed in military fcience, they would readily acquire its principles, and become a formidable foldiery. This would be the more ealily
effe(5ted,

as

their

mulberry plantations and

F 4

vineyards

72

TRAVELSIN
occupy them
all

vineyards do not

the year,

and they could afford much time

exerciles fpj.

for military

By
ber

the

lafl:

eftimates,

it

appears the

num-

of

men

able

to

bear

arms was forty

thoufand, which fuppofes a total population

of a hundred and twenty thoufand: no addition

is

to be

made

to this calculation, fince

there are no Druzes in the cities or on the

cpail:.

As

the whole country contains only one

refults

hundred and ten fquare leagues, there

for every league, one thoufand

and ninety per-

fons

',

which

is

equal to the population of our

richeft provinces.

This will appear more

re-

markable,

when we

coniider that the foil is

not fertile, that a great

uncultivated, that

many eminences remain they do not grow corn

months
in

enough

to fupport themfelves three

the year, that they have no mianufadlures, and

that all their exportations are confined to filks

and cottons,
very
little

the balance of

which exceeds

the importation of corn from the

oils

Hauran, the

of Palefline, and the rice

when
in

[p] In this leifiire time,

is

the gathering of the filk

is

over in I/ebanon, a great number of Peafants, as

thcfe of ths

ufuii

among

Limoufin

France, leave the

moun-

tains to get in the harvefts in the plains,


EGYPT AND
and
coffee

SYRIA'
Bailout.

73

they

procure from

Whence

arifes

then fuch a number of inhabifmall a fpace? I can difr3.y

tants, within fo

cover no other caufe, than that

of Hberty

which ghmmers
the
rity
is

in

this

country.

Unlike

Turks, every man

hves in a perfe6t fecu-

of his Ufe and property.

The

peafant

not richer than in other countries; but he

**

is free,

he

fears not," as I

have often heard

them fiy, ** that the Aga, the Kaimma" kam, or the Pacha, fhould fend their
*'

"

Djendis ^^y, to pillage his houfe, carry off his family, or give him the baflinado."
are

Such oppreffions
rpountains.

unknown among

theie

Security, therefore, has been the

original caufe of population,

from that into multiply

herent defire which

all

men have

themfelves wherever they find an eafy fubfiftence.

is

The frugality of
little,

the nation,

which

content with
lefs

has been a fecondary,

j

and not

powerful reafon

and a

third, is

the emigration of a number of Chriflian fariiilies,

who

daily

defert

the Turkifh pro-

vinces to fettle in
|;hey

Mount Lebanon,

where

are

received

with open arms by the

Soldiers,

{q)

Maronitcs,

74

TRAVELSIN
how much
it
is

Maronites, from fimilarlty of religion, and by

the Druzes from principles of toleration, and

a convidion

the intereft of

every country to multiply the

culti/atorr,

number of its confumers, and allies. They all

but
I

live quietly together;

cannot help add-

ing,

that the Chriflians

frequently difplay
zeal,

an indifcreet and meddling

too well

caU

culated to difturb this tranquillity.

Th?

comparifon which the Druzes often

have an opportunity of making, between their fituation and that of other fubjed:s of the.
Turkifli Government, has given

them an ad-

vantageous opinion of their fuperiority, whicha

by a natural

effecfl,

has an influence on their

perfonal charader.
to the violence

As they
infults

are not expofed

and

of defpotifm, they
their

confider thernfelves as

more perfed than

neighbours, becaufe they have the good for-

tune not to be equally debafed.

Hence they

acquire a character more elevated,, energetic,

and adive;
fpirit,

in fhort, a genuine republican

They

are confidered throughout the

enterprifing, hardy,
.

Levant

as refliefs,

and

brave even to temerit)

Only

three hundred

of them have been ken. to enter Damafcus

in open day, and fpread around

the^i terror

and

EGYPT AND
and carnage.
their
It is

SYRIA.
is

75

remarkable, that though

nearly fmiilar,

form of Government

the Maronites do not pofTefs thefe qualities to

the fame degree.

day, in a

Enquiring the reafon, one

this obfervation

company where

was

made,

in

confequence of fome recent events,

after a

an old Maronite,

moment's

filence,

taking his pipe from his mouth, and curling

his
**
*'

beard round his iingers,

Perhaps the

made anfwer, Druzes would be more afraid

of death, did they believe in a future ftate."

they great preachers of that morality
conlifts

Nor are
which

in

pardoning

injuries.

No

people are more nice than they with refped;

to the point of honour
:

Any

offence of that

kind, or open infult,

is

inflantly punifhed
;

by

blows of the kandjar or the mufquet

while
it

among

the inhabitants of the towns,

only

excites injurious retorts.

This delicacy has

a politenefs,

occalioned, in their manners and difcourfe, a

l-eferve,

or, if

you

will,

which

one

is

aflonifhed to difcover

among

peafants.

Jt is carried

even to diffimulation and falfe-

hood,

efpecially

greater intereits

among demand

the chiefs,
greater

whofe

attentions.

Circumfpedion
formidable

is

neceffary to all,

from the

confe(^uences of that retaliation

9f

7^

TRAVELSIN
I

of which

have fpoken.
-,

Thefe ciifloms
but they have

may

appear barbarous to us

the merit of fupplying the deficiency of regular juftice, Y/hich

is

neceflarily tedious

and

uncertain in thefe diforderly and almoil anarchical Governments.

The Druzes have another

that of hofpitality.
felf at their

point of honour
prefents

Whoever

him-

door in the quality of a fuppliant

is

or palTenger,

fure of being entertained with

iii

lodging and food,

tinaffevfled

the moft generous and

I

manner.

have often fttn the

laffc

lowell: peafants give the

morfel of bread

they had in their houfes to the hungry traveller;

and when

obfsrved to them that

their

they wanted prudence,

**
**

anfwer was,
all

God

is

liberal

and

great,
are,

and

men

are

brethren."

There

therefore,

no inns
of

in this country, any

more than

in the reft

Turkey.
with

When

they have once contracted

the facred enp-agement of

their f^ueft,

IreaJ and fait, no fubfequent event can

make

them
ter.

violate

it

Various

infcances
to their

of this
charac-

are related,

which do honour

few years ago, an Aga of the Janifin

faries,

having been engay:ed

a rebeUion,

i!ed

from Damafcus, and

retired

among

the

Druzes.

EGYPT AND
Druzes.

SYRIA.
informed of

\i1

The Pacha was

this,

and demanded him of the Emir, threatening Th to make war on him in cafe of refufal.

Emir demanded him of

the Shaik Talhouk,

him; bat the indignant Shaik repHed, " When have you known the <* Druzes deliver up their guefls? Tell the

who had

received

*' ** *'

Emir,

that, as long as

Talhouk

fhall pre-

ferve his beard, not a hair of the

his

head of

fuppliant

fliall

fall!"
;

The Emir

threatened
his

him with
method

force

Talhouk armed
in

family.

The Emir,

dreading a revolt,

adopted
that

pradtifed as juridical

country.

He

declared
fifty

to

the

Shaik,

that he

would cut down

until

mulberry- trees

a day,

he fhould give up the Aga.

He

proceeded as far as a thoufand, and Tal-,

ftill

houk

remained

inflexible.

At

leno:th,

the other Shaiks, enraged, took up the quarrel,

and the commotion was about to become general,

when

the

Aga, reproaching himfelf

fo

with being the caufe of

much

mifehief,

made

his efcape,

without the knowledge even

of Talhouk frj.

The
(r) I have found in an Arabic manufcript, another anecdote, which, though foreign to

my

prcfent fubjedl,

think

too excellent to be omitted.

)^

TRAVELS
The Druzes
have

IN
they
5

alfo the prejudices of* thd

Bedouins refpedting birth; hke them,

pay great
but
this

refped; to the antiquity of families

produces no

efTential inconveniencies*

The

nobihty of the Emirs and Shaiks does

not exempt them from paying tribute, in proportion to their revenues. It confers on

them
In

no

prerogatives, either in the attainment of

landed property, or pubHc employments w

this

country, no

more than

in all

Turkey,
are

" In
*'

the time of the Caliphs, fays the Author,

^i\&

when Ab-

dalah,

JJiedder of bloody

had murdered every defcend-

** ant of Ommiah, within his reach, one of that family " named Ibrahim, the fon of Soliman, fon of Abd-el-Ma-

*' lek,
*'
t'

had the good fortune to efcape, and reach Koufa,

in difguife.
fat

which he entered

Knowing no
down under

perfon in

whom

he could confide, he

the portico of

" alargehoufc. Scon after,

''
*'

the mafter, arriving, followed

by

feveral fervants, alighted

from

his horfe, entered, and,

feeing the frranger, afked him who he was. I am an un" fortunate man, replies Ibrahim, and requcfl: from thee " an afyluni. God prote6l thee, faid the rich man; enter,

" and remain in peace. Ibrahim lived feveral months in " this houfe, without being queflioned by his hoft. But, " afloaiihed to fee him every day go out on horfeback, and
*'

return, at the fame hour, he ventured one day to enquire

"

the reafon

I have

been informed, replied the rich man,

the fon of Soliman,
flain
Is

"

that a perfon

named Ibrahim,
town ; he has

conI

" cealed

in this

my

father,

and

am

fearching

EGYPT

Ais^D

SYRIA.

75

are they acquainted with game-laws, or glebes,

or feigniorial, or ecclefiailical tithes, franc or alienation fines; every thing

is

fiefs

held, as I
after

have

faid, in freehold

Every man,
is

pay-

ing his miri and his rent,

property. In fhort,

mailer of his
privilege,
fine

by a particular

the Druzes and Maronites pay no

their fucceflion
;

for

nor does the Emir, like the

Sultan, arrogate to himfelf original and uni*'

fearching for
that
y

him

to retaliate* -Then I

knew,

faid

Ibra-

" him, " place

*'
t'

God

had

purpofely condu6led

me

to that

adored his decree,

death, I anfwered,

ofFended

man;

thy

*'

aftoni(hed, replied,

God vidim O!

and, refigning myfelf to

has determined to avenge thee,

is

at thy feet.
!

The

rich

man,

ftranger
life
;

I fee thy misfortunes

lofe
it,

" have made

*'
*'

thee vi'eary of

thou feekefl to

but

my

hand cannot commit fuch a crimen

do not
j

deceive thee, faid Ibrahim; thy father was fuch a one

*'

we met

each other in fuch a place, and the

affair

hap-

" peneu

in fuch

and fuch a manner.

A
and

violent trembling

" then
*'

felzed the rich

man

his teeth chattered, his

eyes

alternately
tears.

fparkled

with fury,

overflowed with
;

" " " "

*'

In

this agitation,

he remained a long time

faid he,

at

length, turning to
ftinyfliall join

Ibrahim To-morrov/,

de-

thcc to
as for
?

my
me,

father,

and
I

God

will

have r-

taliated.

But

how

can

violate the facrcd

" laws of
prefence

hofpitaiity
!

Wretched
thefe

ftranger, fly

from

my

There, take
let

hundred fcqulns: Begone

" quickly, and

me

never behold thcc more !"

^rfal

TRAVELS
:

IN
i*l

verfal property

there exifts, nevertheiefs,

the law of inheritance, an imperfedtion which

produces difagreeabk
in the
effed:s.

Fathers have, as

Roman
it

law, the power of preferring

as they

fuch of their children

think proper

hence

has happened, in feveral families of

the Shaiks, that the whole property has centered in the

fame perfon,

who

has perverted

it

to the purpofe of intriguing and caballing,

while his relations remain, as they well exprefs

fay,
it,

princes of olhes

and

cheejc-,

that

is

to

poor as peafants.
the

In confequence of their prejudices,

Druzes do not choofe to

of
their

own
j

families.

make alliances out They invariably preto a rich

fer their relation,

though indigent,
poor
peafants

Granger

and

have

beea

known

to refufe their daughters to

merchants

of Saide
twelve or

and

Bairout,

who

were worth

fifteen

tlioufand

piaftres.

They

obferve alfo, to a certain degree, the.cuftom

of the Hebrev/s, which direded that a brother lliould efpoufe his brother's
this
is

widow

but

not peculiar to them, for they retain

that as v/ell as feveral other cuftoms of that

ancient people, in

common
all

v/ith other in-

habitants of Syria, and

3

the

Arab

tribes.
Jji

EGYPT AND
fadier of the Druzes,
is,

SYRIA.
have

8i

In fhort, the proper and diftingullliing chaas I

laid, a fort

of repubhcan

fpirit,

which

gives

them more

energy than any other fubjeds of the Turkifli

government, and an indifference for rehgion,

which forms a flriking contrafl with the zeal of the Mahometans and Chriilians. In other
refpefts, their private life, their

cuftoms and

prejudices, are the

fame with other Orientals.

They may marry

feveral wives,

and repudiate

them when ihey chufej

pra6lifed.

but, except by the

Emir, and a few men of eminence, that is rarely

Occupied with

their rural labours,

artificial

they experience neither

thofe inordinate pafilons,

wants, nor

which

are produced
cities

by the
towns.

idlenefs

of the inhabitants of

and
is

The

veil,

worn by

their

women,

of

itfelf a

prefervative againft thofe defires

which
fociety.

are the occafion of fo

many

evils iu

No man knows

the face of any other

filler,

woman
and

than his wife, his mother, his

lifter-in-law.
his

Every one

lives

in

the
little

bofom of
abroad.
Shaiks,

own

family, and goes

The women, thofe even of the make the bread, roafl the coffee, wafh
offices. II.

the linen, cook the victuals, and perform all

domeftic

The men

cultivate their

Vol.

lands

r2

TRAVELS

IN

lands and vineyards, ana dig canals for water-

ing them.

In the evening they fometimes

aflemble in the court, the area, or houfe of

the chief of the village or family.
feated in a circle, with legs
their

There,

crolTed, pipes in
at

mouths, and poniards

their belts,

they difcourfe of their various

labours, the

fcarcity or plenty of their harveils, peace or

war, the conduit of the Emir, or the amount

of the taxes

they relate

pail;

tranfactions,

difcufs prefent interefls,

and form conjectures

tired

on the future.
play,

Their children,

with

come

frequently to liften; and a Granat ten or

ger

is

furprifed to hear them,

twelve

years old, recounting, with a ferious air,

why

Djezzar declared war againfl the Emir You{tfy

how many
many

purfes

it

coft

that prince,

what augmentation
hovv^

there will be of the miri,

tlie

muilcets there were in

camp,
is

and

who had

the bell mare.

This

their

They are neither taught to read the Pfalms, as among the Maronites, nor the Koran, like the Mahometans ^ hardonly education.
ly

do the Shaiks know

how

to write a let-

ter.

But

if their

minds he

dellitute of ufeful
leall:,

or agreeable information, at

they are not

pre-occupied by

falfe

and hurtful ideas ; and,

without

EGYPT AND
worth
all

SYRIA.
is

83

without doubt, fuch natural ignorance

our
artificial folly.
it,

well

This advanof con-

tage refults from

that their underftandings

being nearly on a
ditions
is lefs

level, the inequality

perceptible.

For, in fal,

we
de-

do not perceive among the Druzes that great

diftance which, in
vlioOl

other

focie':Ies,

grades the inferior, without contributing to

the advantage of the great.

All,

whether

Shaiks or peafants, treat each other with that

rational familiarity,

which

is

equally remote

from rudenefs and

The Grand Emir, himfelf, is not a different man from the reft: he is a good country gentleman, who
fervility.

does not difdain admitting to

his

table the

meaneft farmer.
are
life,

In a word, their manners

times, and that ruftic
origin of every nation;

thofe of ancient

which m.arks the

found, are, as yet,
ftate.

and prove the people among

ftill

whom

they are

only in the infancy of

the focial

G2

Sect.

^4

TRAVELSlN
Sect.
0/
IV.

the Motoualis,

1 O
in

the eail of the country of the Druze?,

the

deep

valley

which

feparates

their

mountains from thofe of Damafcus, we find

another fmall nation,

name of Motoualis. (liftindtion between them and

bitants of Syria,
il

known in Syria by the The charad:eriil:ic

the other inha-

is,

that they, like the Per-

an s, are of the

fovfl

of

xA.li,

while
or

all

the

Turks foliow
which,
jira,

that

of

Omar

Moawia.

This difcindion, occafioned by the fchifm,

in

the thirty-fixth year of the

He-

arofe

lacceiTors

among the Arabs, refpecSing the of Mahomet, is the caufe, as I

parties.

have already obferved, of an irreconcileable

Iratred
rics

between the two

The

led'a-

of Omar,

who

conlider themfelves as the

title

only orthodox, alTume the

of Sonnites,

which has

that fignification, and term their

that
is

adveriliries Sbiites^

Sectaries,

(of Ali).

The word

Motouali has the fame m.eaning in

the dialed of Syria.

The

followers of Ali,
diffatisfied

EGYPT AND
dlluitisfied

SYRIA.
of JvjHcc,

85

with

this

name,

fubftitute that of
lite-

Adlia^ wjiich

means

allerters

rally 'y ujliciarians y a

denomination which they

haveaflumed in confequenceof a dodtrinal point

they advance
in oppofition to

the Sonnite faith.

A
the

fmall Arabic treatife, entitled, ^Ixol.glcal

Setls

Fragments concerning tkc

and

Religions of

world (s)^ has the following paffage.

fe(ftaries
\^^'ho

" Thofe
ad;s only

teach

that

God
or

on principles of juilice,

confornir-

able to

human

reafon, are called Adlia,

Jufticiarians,

God

cannot, fay they,

comto

mand an

impracLicable woriliip, nor or-

dain impoffible ad:ions,

nor enjoin

men

perform what

is

beyond

their ability;

bat

wherever he requires obedience, will be^.Q\N the

power

to obey.

He

removes the

caufe of evil, he allows us to reafon, and

impofes only what

ficult;

is

eafy, not

what

is

dif-

he makes no

man

refponfible for

the avflions of another, nor puniihes

for that in

him

which he has no
as

part

he im-

putes

not
in

crime what himfelf has

require

created

him
(i)

to

man; nor does he avoid what deftiny has

el

decreed.
cl

Abarat

-vlotkalbmin

fi

mazahcb wa Dianat
^*

Doijia,

Thi'^

86
**

TRAVELS
This would be
v/hich
injuflice

IN
and tyranny, of

God

is

incapable from the perfec-

"

tion of the divine nature."

To

this

dodrine,

which diametrically oppofes the fyilem of the

Sonnites, the Motoualis add certain ceremonies

which

increafe

their

mutual

averfion.

Tiiey curfe
iifurpers;
faiiits
ti<:-ns

Omar

and Moawia

as rebels

and
as,

and celebrate All and Hofain

and martyrs.
at the eibovv,

They

begin their ablu-

inftead of the end of the

j

finj;er, as is

cuftcmary with the Turks

defiled

they

think

themfelves

by the

touch of

ftrangers, and, contrary to the general practice

of the Eafl, neither eat nor drink out of

a vefTcl

which has been ufsd by

a perfon not
fit

of their fed, nor will they even

at the

with fuch

fame

table.

Thefe doctrines and cufloms, by feparating

the Motoualis from their neighbours, have ren-

dered

them

a diilincfl fociety.

It is faid,

they

have long exifled

as a nation, in this country,

though

their name has never been

mentioned by

any European writer before the prefent century ;

it is

not even to be found in

:

the

maps of
coun-

Danville
try not a

La Roque, who
Be
wars,

vifited their

hundred years ago, gives them the

this
as
it

name of Amcdkns,
later

may,

in

times,

their

robberies,

fuccefs,

and

EGYPT AND
dered

SYRIA.
in

87

und various changes of fortune, have ren-

them of confequence
tliis

Syria.

Till

about the middle of

poUeflcd
Balbec,

century, they only

their

capital,

and a

fev/

places in the valley, and Anti Lebanon,

which
a like

feems to have been

their

original

country.

At

that period,

we

find

them under
is

government with the Druzes, that

a number

under

of Shaiks,

with one

principal

chief, of the family of Harfoufli.

After the

year 1750, they eflabliflied themfelves arns^ng

the

heights

of Belcaa, and got

footing in

Lebanon, where they obtained lands belonging to the Maronites, almofl as far as Befharrai.

They even incommoded them fo much by their ravages, as to oblige the Emir Youfef
to attack

them with open force, and expel them

even to the ^leighbcurhood of Sour,

but, on the other fide, they advanced along

the

river,

(Tyre). In this fituation, Shaik Daher had

the addrefs, in
party.

1760, to attach thpm to his

ot Saide

The Pachas

and Damafcus

claimed tributes, which they had neglected

paying, and

complained of
their fubjeds

frveral robberies

committed on
iilisi

by the Motou-

they were defirous of chafl;inng thcni,

this

but

vengeance v/as neither certain nor

/j.

e.ifv.

8S
e'j.fy,

TRAVELS
Daher
interpofed,

IN
by becoming

and,

fecurity for

the

tribute,

and promiling to
allies

prevent any depredations, acquired

who

were

able, as
all

it

is

faid,

to

arm

ten thoufand

horfemen,

refoiute

and formidable troops.

Shortly after, they took pofleflion of Sour, and

made
In
1

this

village

their

principal

fea-port.

77 1 5 Bey and Daher,

they were of great fervice to Ali

againfl

the Turks.

But

Emir

Youfef, having, in their abfence, armed ravaged their country.

the Druzes,

belieging the cafrle of Djezin,

toualis,

He was when the Moreceived

returning from Damafcus,

inteUigence of this invalion.

At

the relation

of the barbarities committed by the Druzes,

an advanced corps, of only five hundred men,

were

fo enraged, that they

immediately rufhed

forvN-ardagainft the enemy, determined to perifli

in

taking vengeance.

But the furprize and

and the difcord
the

confufion they occaiioned,

which

reigned

between

two

fad:ions

of ?vIanfour and Youfef, fo

this defperate attack, that

much

favoured

the whole army,

confiiiing of tv,Tnty-iive thoufand

men, was

completely overthrown.
In the follov/ing year, the affairs of taking
a

Daher

favourable

turn,

the

zeal of the

MotouaUs

EGYPT AND
I
finally

YR

A.

89

Moutouaiis cooled towards him,

and they

abandoned him
lofl his life.

in the catallrophe in

which he

But they havefuffered

for their imprudence, under the

admin iflration
Since the

of the Pacha

who

fucceeded him.

year 1777, Djezzar, mafter of Aci-e and Saidc,

has inceffantly laboured to deftroy them.

His

perfecution forced them, in 1784, to a reconciliation

with the Druzes, and

to enter into

an
re-

alliance

with the Emir Youfef.

Though

duce!

to lefs

than feven hundred armed men,

they did more in that campaign than fifteen

or twenty thoufand Druzes and Maronites,

afiembled at

Dair-el-Kamar.
fortrefs
fifty

They

alone

took the ftrong

of Mar-Djebaa, and
or fixty Arnauts (r),

put to the fword

who

defended

it.

But the mifunderfiiand-

ing which prevailed amicng the chiefs of the

Druzes having rendered abortive

operations,

all

their

the Pacha has obtained poiTeflion

valley,

of the whole
itfjlf.

and the city of Balbec

not more than five

At

this

period,

hundred

families of the Mctoualis remained,

who

took refuge in Anti- Lebanon, and the

driven, as

Lebanon of the Maronites; and,

(t)

The name

given by the I'urks to the Macedonian

^nd Epirot

foldiers.

thev

<)D

T R A V
now
are,

I L S

N
it is

they

from

their native foil,

pro-

bable they will foon be totally annihilated, and

even their very name become extindt.

Such

are the

difi;in(fl

tribes

we

find in Syria.

The
have

remainder of the inhabitants,

who

are
I

conliderably the moil numerous, aie,

faid,

as

com.pofed of Turks, Greeks, and

Arabs.

It

now

remains for

me

to s,ive

fketch of the diviiicns of the country, under

the Turkiili adminiflration, and to add a few

general reflexions on
its
its

forces

and revenues,
chara(5];ers

form of government, and the

its

and manners of

inhabitants.
it

But before
motions,

proceed to thcfe particulars,

m^ay be proper to give fome idea of the

com-

which, in our days,

were on the

coint of producing an important revolution,

and erecting an independent power

I

in Syria

mean

the injfiirredtion of Shaik Daher,

years, at traded the attention

for

many

who, of Po-

liticians.

fuccind: narrative of his hiftory

intereiling as
it is

niuft be the

more

new, and

as the accounts

we have

feen in the Gazettes of

Europe
of
tlie

are
real

ill

calculated to fu mi ill a juft idea

flate

of a^airs in thefe diflant

countries.

CHAP*

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.
XXV.

91

CHAP.

Summary of the hipry ofBaher, fin of Omar, Acre from 1750 /; 1776. in: ho governed at

SHaik Daher, who, in cur time, has given was an Arabian fo much trouble to the Porte,
from one of thcfe tribes on the baqks of Bedouins who ufaally encamp environs of Lake Taof the Jordan, and the His enemies (the ancient Tiberias).

by

birth, defcended

baria,

us, that, in his youth, are fond of reminding

he was a

cam.el driver

but this circumflance,

which does honour

tered in his
try,
rife,

to his abihties,

by fug-

he mull have encoungefling the difficulties

has, bcfides, in this coundiflinguiainothing incompatible with a always v/ill be, ufual it is now, and birth
:

ed

wdth the Arab princes,

felves

to

employ themto

in

occupations
I

which appear

us
that

mean.
-

Thus

have already obferved,

guide their cam.els, and the Shaiks themfelves

their wives and look after their horfes, while

daughters grind

waih

the linen,

the corn, b.ike the bread, and fetch water, as in the

times of Abraham,

and

Homer

and

this

fnnple

92

1'

R A V E L
life,

IN

fimple and laborious

poflibly, contributes

more
and

to happinefs than that liftlefs inadivity,

fatiating luxury

in poliihed nations.
tain that

which furround the great As for Daher, it is cerAfter the death of

besrinnin? of the

he was one of the rnofl powerful

families of the country.

his father

Omar, about the

prefent century, he divided the government

with his uncle and two brothers.

His do-

main was

Safad, a fmall

town and flrong-

hold in the mountains, to the north- wxil of

the Lake of Tabaria, to which he fhortly after

added Tabaria
in

itfelf.

There Pocock fuj

found him,

1737, occupied in fortifying himfelf againfl the Pacha of Damafcus, who,

not long; before,
brothers.

had flraneled one of his

another Pacha,

In 1742,

Soliman-el-adm, beiieged him there,

named and bomknown,

barded the place, to the great aiionifhment of

all Syria,

where bombs

are but little

In fpite cf his courage, even at prefent f J. Daher was reduced to the lafl extremity;

when

a fortunate,

and,
ii.

as

it

is

alledged,

(u) Fococke's Travels, vol.

(x)
I

p.

69.

have fecn

letters

of

M.

Jean Jofeph Blanc, 2 merat this time, in

chant oi Acre,

who was in Soliaian's camp,

is

which

a circumltantial account

given of

this affair.

not

lEGYPT AND SYRIA.

not a cafual incident, relieved

93
his

him from

embarralTment.

violent

and fuddcn cholic

carried ofFSoliman in
his

two

days. Afad-el-adm,

brother and fuccelTor, vi^anted either the

inclinations, to

fame motives, or the fame

continue the war, and Daher was unmolefted

on the part of the Turks.

foon gave

But

his

ac-

tivity, and the intrigues of his neighbours,

him

other employment.

Reafons

of

interefl

embroiled

him with
to

his uncle

and

brother, recourfe

was had

arms more than

difputes

once, and Daher, always vicftorious, thought

it

beft

to

conclude

thefe

by

the

death of his competitors.

Invented, then, with the

whole power of his

its

family, an abfolute mafter of

profped:s

force,

opened
in

to

his

ambition.

new The

commerce
governors,
tage of an

which he engaged, accordinofenfible

to the cuflom of all the Aliatic princes and

made him

of

th.e

advan-

immediate communication with

conceived
that a portt
in his

the fea.

He

hands would become a public market,

to

which Grangers
ties.

reforting, a competition
fale

would

arife favourable to the

of his ccmmodi-

Acre,

fituated

in his neighbc^urhood,

and under

his eye,

was

fuited to his defigns,

lince

94

TRAVELS
for leveral years

IN

fmce

he had tranfad:ed bufinefs

therewith the French faftors. This town was

in reahty but a
village,

heap of ruins, a miferable open

defence.

without

The

Pacha of

Saide maintained there an Aga, and a few

foldiers,

who
;

dared not lliew themfelves

the

in

the

field

while

Bedouins really goall

verned, and were maflers of

the country,
fertile

up

to

its

very gates.

The

plain, fo

in former times,

was nothing but an extenfive

by

wafte, on vv^hich the waters ftagnated, and infedted the environs

their vapours.

The
was
de-

ancient harbour

was choaked up,

is

but the
it,

road of Haifa, which

{o

dependant on

advantageoufly fituated that

it.

Daher

termined to gain pofleffion of

Avas neceifary,

pretext

which was foon

fome

furniflied

by

the ccndudi: of the Aga.

One
tended
v/ere

day, w^hile
to

v/arlike ftores, in-

be employed

againft

the Shaik,
brifkiy

kmding,

Daher marched

to-

wards Acre, fent a menacing

letter to the

Aga, which made him take to flight, and entered tjie town, where he eftabliihed himfelf,
without refinance
year 1749old.
:

this

happened about the

advanced
for

He was

then fixty-three years

This age feems rather too

EGYPT AND
for fuch enterpnzes; but

SYRIA.
when we
he
is
ilill

95

recoiled-,

that, in 1776, at near ninety,

boldly

mounted

a fiery

fteed,

it

evident he

was

much
this

younger than that age ufually implies.

So bold a meafure could not pafs unnoticed; he

forSiw,
a letter to

therefore

inflantly

dif-

patched

the Pacha of Saide, icprc-

fenting to
fonal

him that the affair was entirely perbetween him and the Aga, and protciling
lefs

that he was not

jed:

the very lubmiilive fub-

of the Sultan, and the Pacha; that he

tribute of the
di{lri(5t

would pay the

he

now

occupied, as had been done heretofore by the

Aga; and would undertake

to reflore this
cation,

befides to refcrain

the Arabs, and do every thing in his power

ruined country.

This appli-

backed by a few thoufand Sequins,

its effect
:

produced

in the

Divans of Saide, and were

Conftantinopie

his

reafons

acknow-

ledged jufr, and

all his

demands granted.
Vs^as
it

Not

that

the Porte

the dupe of the

is

proteflations of

Daher;

too

much
to

ac-

cuftomed

to

fuch
a

proceedings
witli the

mifLake

them; but
to keep

it is

maxim
in

Turks, not
an obe-

theii-

vaffals

too

Pcricl

dience; they have long been convinced, that

were they

to

make war with

all

rebels,

it

Vv'ould

96

TRAVELSIN
endlefs labour,

would be an
reckoning the
the

and occafion a

vail conluinption of
riik

men and money; without

of frequent defeats, and
to

confequent

encouragement
is

revolt.

Their plan,
porize (y)
tions,
;

therefore,

to be patient;

temrela-

and excite the neighbours,

and children of the revolters againfl

fooner, or later, the rebels,

them; and,
fame with

who

uniformly follow the fame fheps,

fate,

fuffer the

and end by enriching the Sultan

their fpoils.

Daher, on his part, well

value

knew

the real

of

this

apparent

friendfliip.

Acre,

which he intended
titute

for his relidence,

eafily

was def-

of defence, and might

be furpri-

zed, either by fea or land;

therefore,
to fortify
it.

he determined,

In the year 1750,

under pretext of building himfelf a houfe,

he
the

erected,
fea,

on the northern point towards

palace,

which he provided with

cannon.

He

then built feveral towers for the

defence of the harbour, and enclofed the town

by a wall,
(y j

in Vv^hich

he

left

only two gates.

have a fingular pro:

The

Arabs, in reference ta

this,

verb, which admirably paints this

condud

"

The Ofmauli,

"

fay thqv, catch hares with

waggons."

Thefe

AND

SYRIA.

97

^hefe by the Turks were imagined

formidable

very

works>

though they would be

lauglied at in Europe.

The

palace of Daher,
its

with

its

lofty

and

flight walls,
is

narrow

ditch, and

antique turrets,

incapable of

the fmallcft refillance: four

demolifli, in

field pieces

would

two
of

difcharges, both

the walls

and the wretched cannon mounted on them,

at the height
fn^ty feet.

The
it

wall of the

town

is flill

more
and

feeble;
is

has neither foife,

feet

nor rampart,

nor three

thick.

Through
fliort,

all this

part of Afia, bailions, lines

w\ays,

of defsnCe, covered

ramparts, and, in

every thing relative to

are utterly unknovv^n.

modern

fortifica-

tion,

fingle thirty

gun

frigate

would,

v/ithout diiiiculty,

bomaf-

bard, and lay in ruins, the wliole coafh but,

as this ignorance
fiilants
is

common

both

to the

and defendants, the balance remains

equal.

After thefe precautions,

Daher occupied

himfeif in eifed:ing fuch a reformation in the

country as fliould augment his power.

An\,bs

The

of Saker, Muzaina, and other neightribes,

bouring

had caufed a

defertion of the
:

Peafints, by their inroads and devaflations

he undertook

to repel

thcmj and by

alter-

Vo

L.

11.

nately

98

TRAVELS
and arms,
reflored

IN

nate^y employing prayers and menaces, prefents

fecurity to the hufhis

bandman,

who might now fow

The

corn>

without fear of feeing the harvefl deftroyed,

or carried off by robbers.
the
foil

excellence of

attracted cultivators,

but

the

cer-

tainty of fecurity, that to thofe

bleffing fo precious
ftate

who

have lived in a

of con-

tinual alarm,

was

ftill

flronger inducement*

The fame

of Daher fpread through Syria, and

every where

Mahometan and Chriftian farmers,

numberSj with a prince under

defpoiled and harraifed, took refuge, in great

whom

they

were fure
liberty.

to find

both

civil

and religious
emigrated

colony

of Greeks

from Cyprus, now nearly

defolated,

by the

oppreffions of the goverrnor, the infurredtions

they produced, and the cruelty with which

Kior Pacha expiated fuch offences (^j To thefc, Daher affigned a fpot of ground, under
.

the v/alls of Acre, which they laid out into

gardens.

The

Europeans,

who found

ready fale for their merchandize, formed nu(s)

When

Kior Pacha came

to

CyprUSy he threw a

number of

the revolters, from the tops of the walls upon

till

iron hooks, where they remained fufpended,

they expired

indrcaurul torments.

merous

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

^5

merous fettlements; the lands were cleared, the waters drained, the air became purer,
and the country
iant.
at

once ilUubrious and plea-

To

strengthen

himfelf

ftill

more, Daher
tribes

renewed his alliances with the great

the defert,

of

^mong whom he
for,

h-^d

difpofsd of

his children in marriage.

feveral advantages
j

This policy had

them, he fecured

in

an inviolable afylum, in cafe of accidents;

by

this

means,

alfo,

he kept

in

check the

Pacha of Damafcus, and procured excellent

horfes,

of which he was always pafHonately

fond.

He

courted, therefore, the Shaiks of

Anaza, of Sardia, and Saker.

firfl:

Then,
little

for the
fhrivel-

time, were feen in Acre, thofe

led

and fwarthy Arabs,

who were
:

beheld with

aflonifliment even by the Syrians; hefurnifhed

them v/ith arms and cloathing

alfo,

and the

defert,

for

the

firft

time, beheld

men

in clofe
pillols,

drefles,

and armed with mufkets and

inftcad of

bows and raatch-lock-guns.

Pachas of Saide and

For

fom.e years, the

Damafcus
Motoualis,

had

been

incommoded by the
Daher,
fenfible

who

pillaged their lands, and re-

fufed their tribute.

of the
in-

s-dvantagc to be

made of

thcfe allies,

firil

tcrpofed

lOO

TRAVELS

IN

terpofed as mediator, and afterwards, In order

to

accommodate the parties, offered to become fecurity for the Motouahs, and pay their
tribute.

The Pachas

accepted this propofal,

which rendered their revenues certain, and Daher was content with the baro:ain he had made, fmce he had fecured the friendfhip of
a people

who

could bring ten thoufand horfe

into the fieM.

The
enjoy
flill

Shaik, however,
the
to
fruit

did not

peaceably

of his
the

labours;

fmce he

had

fear

attacks

of a jealous

fuperior,

and

his

power was

iliaken at

home,

by domeflic enemies, almofh

as dangerous.
eaft,

Agreeable to the wretched policy of the

he had beftowed feparate governments on

fons,

his

and placed them

at a diflance

from him,
their
it

in countries

which were

fufficient for

maintenance.

From

this

arrangement

fol-

lowed, that thefe Shaiks, feeing themfelves

the children of a great prince, wiflied to fupport a
fuitable
fliort

ftate,

fo

that

their revenues

foon
jed;s

fell

of their expences. Their fubtheir agents,

were oppreffed by them and

to

and complaints were made

Daher,
flatterers

who
ir-

reprimanded them; and court

ritating

both parties, a quarrel was the confcquence.

EGYPT AND
fequence,
father and his children.

SYRIA.
The

loi

and war broke out between the

brothers, too,

frequently quarrelled with each other,

which
the

was another caufe of war. Shaik was growing old, and

conlidered
limits

Befides
his fons,

who

him as having arrived at the ufual of human life, longed to anticipate the

fucceffion.

He
to

muft

neceliarily leave a prin-

cipal

heir

his

titles

and power;

each

thought himfelf entitled to the preference,

and

this

competition furnilhed a

frefli

fubjedt

of jealoufy and dillention.

From

motives of

narrow
duce

and

contemptible
;

policy,

Daher

fomented the difcord

the effect

this

might indeed pro-

of

keeping his foldiery in

-,

exercife,
fides that

and inuring them

it

diforders,

it

to war but, bewas produdive of numberlefs had the farther inconvenience of

caufing a diffipation of treafure, which obli-

ged him
dients:

to

have recourfe

to

ruinous expe-

the

cullom-houfe duties were aug-

mented, and commerce, unable to fupport the

additional burthen, rapidly declined.
civil

Thefe

wars, belides, were

defl:ru(5tive to

agricul-

ture,

which cannot be

injured,

without the
felt in

confequences being always fenfibly

ftate fo limited as the fmall territories

of Daher.

Nor

102

TRAVELSIN
did the

Nor

Divan of Conliantinople

be-.

hold without jealoufy, the increaling power

of Daher; and his ambitious views, whicli

were now become apparent, incrcafed

picions,

its

fuf-

which were

far

from being removed,

Till that

by a requeil he foon
of a

after prefented.

time, he had only held his dom.ains under the

title

renter,

and by annual leafe. His vanity

ref{:rid:ion
j

could no longer fubmit to this

as

and,

he

pofTefTed all the effentials of power,

its titles
:

he af-

pired to

nay, perhaps, he thought

eflabiiili his

themnecelTaiy, more effedlually to

authority over his children, and his fubjecfls.

About the year, 1768,

permanent

he, therefore, folicited a

inveftiture of his

government,

for.

himfelf and his fucceffor, and demanded to be

proclaimed, Shaik of Acre, "Prince of Frinces^

Governor of Nazareth, T^aharta,

and Safad^
this

and Shaik of

all Galilee,

The
money
:

Porte conceded

every thing to fear and

but

proof

of his ambition, awakened more and more

her jealoufy and difpleafure.

There were,
could

befides, too

many

caufcs of

complaint, which though palliated by Daher,

not but increafe
this
diilrufc,

and

roufe a defire of vengeance.

Such was the

adventure

of the celebrated pillage of the

Caravan

EGYPT AND
Caravan of Mecca,
pilgrims plundered, and
defert, a great

SYRIA.
difperfed

103

in 1757. Sixty thoufand

over

the

number

deflroyed by fword or
lofs

famine, v^omen reduced to llavery, the

of immenfe
legious
j-eligion

riches, and,

above

all,

the facriad:

violation

of

fo

folemn an
in

of

produced a commotion
is

the

em-

pire,

which

not yet forgotten.

The plun-

dering Arabs were the Allies of Daher, v/ho

received

them

at Acre,

and there permitted

them

to fell their booty.

The

Porte loaded

him with

the bitterell reproaches,

but he

endeavoured to exculpate himfelf, and to appeafe the Divan, by fending the white ban-

ner of the prophet to Conftantinople.

Such
Corfairs.

alfo

was the

affair

of the Maltefe
infefted

For fome years they had

the coails of Syria,

and, under the falfe pre-

text of a neutral flag,

were received into the

their

road of Acre:
Ipoils,

where they unloaded

and fold the prizes they had taken

from the Turks,

No

fooner

were

thcfe

abufes divulged, than the

Mahometans ex-

claimed againft the facrilege, and the Porte

thundered vengeance.

Daher pleaded igno-

rance of the fad:, and, to prove he no

way
the
ftate

favoured a

commerce

fo

difgraceful to

104
iliite

T R A V
?nd
to religion,

E L

N
galliots,

armed two
But the

an4
to.

fent

them

to fea, Vv'ith oflenlible

orders

drive off the Maltefe.

flicl is,

that

thefe galliots

committed no

hcuilitles againft:

the Maltefe, but ferved, on the contrary, to

correfpond with them at
witneffes.
fea,

remote from

all

Daher did

m.ore:

he pretended
that

the road of Haifa was without def^^nce;

the

enemy might

take flicker there in fpite of

him, and required the Porte to build a fortrefs there,

and provide
:

it

with cannon,

at the

expence of the Sultan

his

demand was comafter,

plied v/ith, and Daher,

fliortly

pro-^

cured the fort to be

moliflied
it,

adjudged

ufelefs,

de~

and tranfported the brafs cannoa

to Acre.

from thence
Thefe

thirigs

kept alive the difcontent and

alarms of the Divan, and though thefe were

diminiflied by

the great age of

Daher

the

turbulent
talents of

fj^irit

of his fons, and the military

the
eldell:

A.li,

of them,
flie

ftill

gave

the
fee

Porte

much

uneafinefs:

dreaded to
itfelf,

an

independent power perpetuate

-,

and even become formidable

but, fteady to

her ordinary fyftem, refrained from open hoftilities,

aud proceeded by

fecret

means

(ht

fent Capidjis, excited domcftic (parrels,

and

had

EGYPT AND
liad

SYRIA.

105

recourfe to meafures

capable at kail of
flie

preventing, for a time, the confequences

feared.

The moil
flie

perfevering

among

all

the agents

employed, was that Ofman, Pacha of

Da-

mafcus,

whom we have

feen ad: a leading part

in the v/ar of Ali Bey.

lie had merited the

favour of the Porte, by difcovering the treafures of Soliman Pacha,

whofe Mamlouk he

The perfonal hatred he bore to Daher, and the known adivity of his character, were
was.
flill

greater recommendations.

He was

con-

fidered as a proper counterpoife to Daher,

and

was accordingly named Pacha of Damafcus in To give him additional weight, his 1760.

two

fens were appointed to the pachalics of

;

Tripoli and Saide

and, to throw

flill

greater

power
all

into his hands, in 1765, Jeruialem

and

Paleftine

were added

to his appanage.

Ofman perfe6tly feconded the views of the As foon as he had taken polTeilion of Porte
:

his government, he greatly annoyed Daher.

He

augmented the tribute of the lands he held

:

under the pachalic of Damafcus

refifced,

the Shaik
it

the Pacha menaced, and

was

evi-

dent the quarrel would

come

to a fpeedy iliue,

Ofman watched the oppoi tunity to ftrike a blow

vvliich

io5

TRAVELS

IN
:

which (hould bring the matter to deciiion

at length prefented itfelf,

thi

and war broke out.

Every year the Pacha of Damafciis makes

what

is

called the circuit

(aj of
is

his govern-

ment, the objed: of which

or impoft on the lands.

to X^-^y the miri

this occalion

On

he

always takes with him ^ body of troops,

Urong enough
thought
to furprife

to fupport his authority.

He

to avail himfelf of this opportunity

Paher ; and, followed by

nume-

rous body of troops, topk his route, as ufua]

towards the countiy of Nablous.

then befieging a caftle
fons
:

Daher was defended by two of his

greater, as

his danger

was the

he

relied
higj

on

a truce with the Pacha, and he

owed

deliverance to his good fortune.

One
pe(5ted

evening, at the
it,

moment he

leafl ex-,

a Tartar courier (h) brought

him

feme

letters

from Conflantinople.

Daher

opened them, and^ immediately fufpending

ail

hoftilities,

difpatched a horfeman to his

defired

children,
for

and

them

to prepare a fupper

him and
This
is

three of his attendants, for that

(a)

praftifed in alniofr
little

all

the great pachalics,

where the vafuls arc in but

[h)

fubjedion.
oiEce of couriers
in

The

Tartars pcrtbrni

the

Turkey.

he

EGYPT AND
Jie

SYRIA.
laft

107

had

affairs to

communicate of the
all.

im^

portance to them

The

character of

Daar-.

her was

known
;

-,

his fons obey

him ; he

rives at the appointed

hour ; they fup

and reads

chear-.

fully together

and, at the end of the repaft,

his
letters

he produces

them

they were from his fpies at Conftantinople,

and
^*

to the following purport

" That

the

Sultan had deceived

him
;

in the laft par-

*' *'

don he had
his head

fent

him

that he had, at the

fame inflant, delivered a kat-pjerif(c) againft

f*

and property; that every thing

PachaSj^

^*
*'

was concerted between the three

Ofman, and
deftroy

his fons, to

circumvent and

^* **
^*

him and

his family;

and that the

Pacha was marching

in force tovrards

Na^

blous to farprife him."

this intelligence excited,

The aflonifliment may eafily be ima-

gined; a council was immediately held, in

which the opinions were divided. The greatpfl: number were for marching with all their
forces againft the

Pacha; but the

Tignify,

eldeit

of

(r) Kat-iherif,

which words

Nohle Jignaturc,
:

is

a
*' *'

letter
oiiCy

of profcription conceived in thcfe terms

" Such a

who

one^

art the JJa.ve of my Sublime Portey go to fmh a my Jlave^ and bring back his head to my feet^ at the

^\

peril of thy own.^*

Daher's

ic5

TRAVELS
A
who
by
in

IN
exploits,

Daher's fons,
illuftrious

has rendered hlmfclf

his

Syria,

repre-

fented, that a large

quick enough

to

army could not march furprife the Pacha ; that he

to provide for his defence,
fall

would have time

and the difgrace of violating the truce

on

them
a

that nothing could be efFedled but

by

coi>p de

main, which he would take upon

himfelf.

He demanded
He
fet

five

hundred horfe

his courage

was known, and

his dem^and ac-

ceded
ing
the

to.

off immediately,

marchfo

all

night, and concealing himfelf during

day;

and the following night was

expeditious, as to reach the

enemy
afleep

early in

the morning of the fecond day.

The Turks,
in
their

according to cuflom,

were

camp, without
hand,
cutting
in their
3

ordcr^

and without centinels.

Ali and his cavalry

to

fell

upon them,

fabre in

pieces

every thing that

came
mult

way.

All was panic and tUr

Ali fpread terror

the very

name of

throughout the camp, and the Turks fled ia The Pacha had not the utmofl: confufion.
even time to put on his
peliffe
:

fcarcely

was

he out of

his

tent,

before Ali arrived,

who
hi

made himfdf mailer of

his coffer, his fliawJs,

l:

G Y T AND SYRIA.
iP

TlO^

his pelides, his ponlardj his nerkeel fdj, and,

to compleat his fuccefs,

Sultan.

the kat-fherif of the

there
Vv'as

From

this

moment

open

war, which was carried on, according to the

cuftom of the country, by inroads and ikirmifhes, in which the Turks but rarely gained
the advantage.

The

expences

it

occalioned foon drained the

-,

coffers of the

Pacha

and, to reimburfe them,

he had recourfe
Turks.
towns,

to the

grand expedient of the

contributions
;

He

levied

on

the

villages,

and individuals

whoever

was fufpe^fled of having money, was fummoned, baftinadoed, and plundered. Thefe opprellions had occafioned a revolt at Ramla
in Paleftine the very 6rft year

he obtained the

government,

which he
cruelties.

fuppreffed

by

Aill

more odious
Gaza.
in

Tv/o years

after,

in

1767, fimilar condudl occafioned a revolt at

Ke

renewed thefe proceedings

at Yafa,

1769, where,

among

other adls of dcfpoin the

tifm, he violated the 3a\v of nations,

perfon of the Refident of Venice, John

Da-

miana, a rcfpedlable old man,

(c/)
flullc

whom

he put
al:ir'^s

pipe, In the Ferfiaii

manner, confiRing of

filled
ii

with water, through which the fnioke pafTes,

it

and

puiincJ, before

reaches the mouth.

to

iio

TRAV
of
Ills

E L

to the torture, by five hundred ftrokes on thd

foles
feet;

and

who

could only prelife,

ferve the feeble remains of

by collecting

from

his

own

fortune, and

the purfes of all

fixty

his friends,
livres,

fum of

near

thoufand
for

(twenty-five

hundred

pounds),
in

the Pacha.

This tyranny is
it is

common

Tur-

key

but as

not ufually either fo violent,

or fo general, fuch cruelties drove the oppreffed to defpair.

The

people began to

murof

mur on
by the
testor.

every fide, and Palefline, emboldened

vicinity of

Egypt,

now

in a ftate

rebellion, threatened to call in a foreign pro-

Under
projeds

thefe

circumfiances,

Ali

Bey^j

the

conqueror of Mecca and the Said, turned his

of
aggrandifement

toward

Syria.

The

alliance of

Daher,

the

war with the

all

RuiiianSj v/hich entirely occupied the Turks,

and the difcontents of the people,

to favour his ambition.

confpired

He

accordingly pub-

lifned a manifefto in 1770, in

which he de-

clared,

that

God

having bellowed a fignal

benedidion on his arms, he thought himfelf bound, in duty, to make ufe of them for
the relief of the people,

and

to reprefs

the

tyranny of

Ofman

in Svria*
'

He

immediately

tGYVT AND
]y difpatched a

SYRIA.
to

tit

body of Mamlouks
the
adjacent

Gaza^
Their

who

feized

on Ramla and Loud.

faction S)

appearance divided

Yafa into two

town of one of which was deEgyptians

5

firous of iubmitting to the

while
flew

the other was for calling in Ofm^in,

thither immediately,

who

and encamped near th^

town.

Two days

after,

Daher was announced,

of Yafa, then,
gates

who had

likewife halrened thither for the

fame purpofe.

The inhabitants

imagining themfelvcs lecure,

againfl the

flint their

Pacha

but, in the night, while

to

he was preparing by an opening

city.

efcape, a party of his

troops, pafling along the fea-fhore, entered^

in the wall,

and ficked the

The

next day Daher appeared, and,

not finding the Turks,

took poirellion

of

Yafa, Ramla, and Loud,

in

without

refiilance^

which towns he placed

Things thus prepared,

garrifons.

Mahommad

Bey

arrived in Palefline, v/ith the grand armv, in

the

month of February 1771, and followed

There,
tvvel>^e

the Shaik along the fea-coall; to Acre.

having been joined by

dred

or thirteen

hunby

Motoualis,

under

the

command of
in April to-

Nafif^ and fifteen hundred Safadians, led

Ali, fon of Daher,

he marched

wards

m
hammad,

TRAVELS
We
this

IN
feeii
ifli

wards Damafcus.

have already

what manner

combined army

defeated the

united forces of the Pachas, and

how Mo-

mailer of Damafcus, and on the

point of taking polTeffion of the caille, on a

fudden changed his delign, and again took the

road to Cairo.

On

this

occafion,

Ibrahim

Sabbar, Minijfter of Daher, receiving no other

explanation from

Mohammad

than menaces,

wrote to him in the name of the Shaik, a

letter filled

with reproaches, which proved,

eventually the caufe, or, at leaft, the pretext

of a

frefli

quarrel.

return

to

Ofman, however, on his Damiafcus, recommenced his ophoftilities

-,

preflions

and

and, imagining that

Daher, chagrined by the unexpected news he

had

received,

would not be prepared

for de-

fence,

he formed the projed: of furprifing

in Acre.

him even
his

But fcarcely was he on march, when Ali Daher, and Nafif, inpropofed to turn

formed of his intentions,

the tables on
left

him

they, therefore, fecretly

Acre, and learning he was encamped on

v/eftern

the

bank of Lake Houla,

arrived

there, at break of day,

took pofTeffion of the

bridge of Yakoub, which they found neglio-ently

guarded,

and

fell

on.

him

fibre

in

and

EdiVPT AND SYRIA.^

liand, in his

113

camp, where they made

This, like the
5

a dread-

ful carnage.
lous,

affair

of

Nab-

was

a total defeat
lide,

the Turks, preffed

on the land
lake,

threw themfelves into the

acrofs
this
it
5

hoping

to

fwim

but the ter-

ror

and confuiion of

multitude of

men

and horfes, which mutually embarralTed each

each other, was fuch, that the enemy made
a

prodigious

daughter,

while

ftill

greater

numbers
the lake.

periflied in

the water and

mud
to

of

The Pacha was thought

be

among

the latter, but he had the good for-

tune to efcape, being faved by two negroes,

who fwam
Pacha of
his caufe,
rived,

acrofs

with him on
Darouifli,

their (boulders

In the interim,
Saide,

fon of

Ofmond,

had engaged the Druzes in

hundred Okkals had arof Ali-Djambalat,

and

fifteen

under the

command
;

to

reinforce the garrifon

while the Emir

Youfef, defcending into the valley of the

toualis

Mo-

with twenty-five thouland men, laid

all

wafte

before

him with
on

fire

and fword.

Ali Daher and Nafif,

this intelligence,

diredted their courfe inflantly

on that

fide,

and, on the 21 ft of O(5i:ober, 1771, happened

the adlon in

which an advanced corps of

entirely

five

hundred

Motoualis
II.

defeated

the

Vol.

whole

?r4

T RAV
terror

E L

I >;

.whole army of the

fpread

Druzes

\vh0f2 flight

through Saide,

whither they
Ali

were

clofely purfued

by the Safadians.

Djambalat, defpairing to defend the towiiy

evacuated
it

v/ithout delay

but not before

it

had been
toiialis,

pillaged

by his Okkals,

The MoAt
length;^

finding

it
it

without defence, entered

and plundered

in their turn.-

the chiefs put an end to the pillage, and took

poffefTion in the

name of Daher, who apa native of Barbary, re-

pointed Degnizla,

nowned

for his bravery, to be bis Motfallamy

or o-ovcrnor.

The
met

Porte, terrifxed at the defeats fhe

had
ta

Vv'ith,

both from the Ruffians,

fubjedts,

and her
peace

rebellious

now

offered

Daher, on very advantageous conditions. Ta induce him to accede to them, Ihe removed the

Pachas of Damafcus, Saide, and Tripoli difavowed their condud:, and folicited a recon-,

ciliation

with the Shaik.

Daher,

now eightyto-

five or eighty-fix

years old,

was willing

accept this offer, that he might terminate his

days in peaces but he was diverted from this
intention by his minifier, Ibrahim;

who

did

not doubt but Ali Bey would,

the

enfuing

winter, proceed to the concpeft of Syria, and

that

EGYPT AND
that this

SYRIA.

115

Mamloak would

cede a confiderable

portion of that country to Daher, and in the

future aggrandizement of his mailer's power,

he hoped the advancement of his own private fortune, and the means of adding frefh treafures to thofe he had aheady amaffed by his
infatiable avarice.

Seduced by
reje(5ted

this brilliant

profped, Daher

the proportions of

the Porte, and prepared to carry on the war

with redoubled

a*ftivity.

Such was the

ftate

of

affairs,

when,

in the

month of February, cf

the following year,

Mohammad

Bey reared the ftandard of rebelIbrahim, at

hrfl:,

lion againll: his patron Ali.

flattered himfelf this revolt

would have no
expulfion, and

ferious confequences

but he was Toon undeAll's

ceived,

by the news cf

his fubfequent arrival at Acre, as a fugitive

and fuppliant.
rage of
all

This llroke revived the couDaher, and the

the enemies of
in

Turkifh faction
of
it

Yafa availed themfelves

to regain their afcendancy.

They apleft

propriated to themfelves the effects

there

by the
city,

little fleet

of Rodoan

and, aided by a

Shaik of Nablous,

began a revolt in the

and oppofed the pallage of the

Circumflances
I

Mamtical.

louks.

now became
2

very cri-

n6
tical,

TRAVELSIN
as

the fpeqdy arrival of a large

army
ought
;

of Turks was announced, which was aflembled near Aleppo

:

Daher,

it

may

be,

to have remained in the vicinity of Acre

but
fe-

imagining his caution and

cure

alertnefs

would
as

him from

every attack, he marched torebels

wards Nablous, chailifing the

palled,

he

and joining Ali Bey,

below Yafa,
to Acre.

conduced him without oppoiition

pitality,

After a reception fuitable to Arabian hofthey marched together againft the

Turks, who, under the

command

of

feveii

Pachas, and in concert with the Druzes, were

belieging Saide.

In the road of Haifa were

fome

"Ruffian vefTels, v/hich, profiting

by the
:

revolt of

Daher, were taking in provifions

the Shaik negociated with them, and, for a

prefent of fix hundred purfes, engaged
to fecond his operations by
at this time,
fea.

them
thoueight

His army,

might

confift of five or fix

fand

Safadian and Motouali cavalry,

Ali's

hundred of

Mamlouks, and about one

thoufand Barbary infantry.

The Turks, on

the contrary, united with the Druzes, amount-

ed to ten thoufand cavalry, and twenty thoufand peafants, who, as foon as they received
intelligence of the

approach of the enemy,

raifcd

EGYPT AND
raifed the fiege,

SYRIA.

117

and

retreated to the north

of

the town,

not intending flight, but to wait

for Daher, and give

him

battle

and the ar-

mies engaged the next day, in better order than had hitherto been ufual.

The Turkifh army,

extending from the fea

to the foot of the mountains, was drawn

in platoons, nearly in the

up

lame

line.

The

Okkals, on

foot,

were ported on the fea-fhore

behind fome hedges of Nopals, and in trenches

they had dug, to prevent a fally from the

town, while the cavalry occupied the plain

in

no

little

confuflon.
little

Towards the
in the front,

centre,

and advanced a

were eight
pounders,

cannon, twelve and

twenty-four

the only artillery hitherto made ufe of in the

open

field.

At

the foot of the mountains,

and on

their declivity,

was the

militia

of the

Druzes, armed with mufkets,

without en-

trenchments, and without cannon.

fide

On

the

of Daher, the Motoualis and the

Safli-

dians, ranged themfelves, fo as to prefer t the

greatefl front
pofTible,

and endeavoured to
as

occupy

as

much

of the plain

the Turks,
Naiif, con-

The

right v/ing,

commanded by
intended
I

fided of the Motoualis,

and the thoufand

to

Earbary

infantry,

orpofj

'

the

peaf:.nt[-

jiS

T R A V
The
left

E L

N
by

peafant Druzes,

other, led on

AH

Daher, was

without fupport againfl the

Okkals
and

but he relied on the Ruflian boats

vellels,

which, keeping dole

in

with the

ihore, advanced in a line parallel to the

army.

In the centre, were the eight hundred

Mam-

louks, and, behind thera, Ali Bey, with the

aged Daher,

who

Hill

animated his people,

both by

his.

words and

his example.

The
vefleh
3

adtion

was begun by the Ruffian

fired a

and no fooner had they

few

broadfides

on the Okkals, than they

-,

retreat-

ed hi confufion

the fquadrons of cavalry

line,

now

advancing, nearly in a

came within can-

non- Hiot of the Turks,

of their bravery, galloped
the enemy.
intrepidity,

Inftantly the

Mam-

iouks, anxious to juflify the general opinion

full fpeed

towards

The

gunners, intimidated by their

foot,

and feeing themfclves on

lines

between two
either

of cavalry,

unfupported,
fired

by redoubts

or infantry,

their

pieces v/ith precipitation, and took to flight.

The Mamlouks, who

this volley,

fuffered but little

from

rudied in an inftant amid the

fell

cannon, and

headlong upon the cavalry

of the enemy.
ance,

They met but

a feeble refifl-

and,

in the confufion

which enfued,
every

EGYPT AND
leveiy one,

SYRIA.

119

not knowing what to do, or v/hat

to

was paiiing around him, was more difpc.kd

iiy

than fight.

The Pachas

lirfl

fct

the ex-

ample, and, in an inlbnt, the flight became

general.

The Druzcs, who

lide

never engage

with o-ood-wili on the

and in

of the Turks,

prefently left the iield, and hid themfelves in

their mountains,
lefs

than an hoar the

latisiied

plain was cleared.

The

allies,

with

their victory, v/ould not rifk a purfiiit, in a

country wiiich would become more

the nearer they approached Bairout;

diiiicult

but the

Ruffian

flilps, to

puniih the Druzes, proceed-

ed to cannonade that

town,

where

they

made
houfes.

defcent,

and burnt three hundred

Ali Bey and Daher,

on

their

return Xq

Acre, determined to take vengeance for the

treachery of the people of Nablous and Y'afa,

and, in the beginning of July 1772, appear-

ed before the

latter city.

They

iirft

propokd

an accommodation, but the Turkifli faction

rejedling every

propofit'on, they wei-e

comThis

pelled
fiege,

to

have

recourfe

to

arms.

properly fpeaking,

was only
the
after

a blocaffailants

kade,

nor mull
their

we imagine
I

made

approaches

the European

method.

120

TRAVELS
They had no
few
ill

IN
on
badly

method.

other artillery,

either iide, than a

large cannon,
ftill

mounted,

fituated,

and

worfe ferved.
neither

The

attacks

were
;

carried

on

by

trenches, nor mines

and

it

mull be owned

that thefe were not neceflary againft a flight

wall, without ditch or rampart.

breach

was foon made, but the cavalry of Daher and Ali Bey fliewed no great eagernefs to
p:ifs it
j

the befieged having defended the inflakes,

lide

with Hones,

and deep holes which

attack was

they had dug.

The whole

made
and

with fmall arms, which

killed very few,

eight months were wafted in this manner,

in fpite of the impatience of Ali Bey,

who
At

had alone the condud: of the

and being
in

fiege.

length the beiieged, exhaufled with fatigue,

want of

provifions, furrendered

by

capitulation,

in the

month of February

Ali Bey placed a governor in the 1773. town, for Daher, and hafliened to join the

Shaik

at

Acre, where he found

enable

him occupied

in preparations to

Egypt,
tributed

to accelerate
all in his

him to return to which event, Ali con-.

power.

They waited only for a fuccour of fix hundred men promifed by the RuiTians, but
the

IGYPT AND
him
to wait their arrival.

SYRIA.
Daher made

nt
ufe of

the impatience of Ali Bey would not permit

every argument
longer.

to detain

him

few days
alter his

But finding nothing could

he fent
fifteen

refolution,

hundred cavalry to

accompany him, commanded by Otman, one

of his
fons.

Not many
which,

days after, (in April

1773), the Rufiians arrived with the reinforcement,

though

lefs

confiderable

than was expected,

could not employ
ly aggravated,
;

he greatly regretted he

but this regret was feverehis fon

when Daher faw

and

his cavalry return

as fugitives, to

announce
mis-

to

him

their

own

difafter, and the fate of Ali

Bey.

He

was the more

affedied at this

fortune, as, inftead of an ufeful ally,

ful in refources,

powerThis, at

he acquired an enemy formi-

dable from his hatred and activity.

his age,
is

was

mofl

affli6ling profpcdt,
it

and

it

highly to hi? honour, that he bore

with

proper fortitude.

A
ture,

fortunate event combined, at this junc-

with his natural firmnefs,

to confole

him,

and divert his attention.

The Emir
of the

Youfef, thwarted by a powerful fidion, had

been obliged to

folicit

the

afiilliince

Pacha of Damafcus,

to maintain

himfclf ia
poiiciiion

122 poiicffion

TRAVELS
of
B.ilrout.

IN
had
plliced there

He

a creature of the Turks, the Eey, Ahmed-elDjezzar, of

whom

have fpokeii before.

invefced with the

No

fooncr was this

man

com-

mand of
feize
it

the town, than he determined to

for himfeli.
fifty

He

began by converting

to his

own ufe,

thoufand piallers belong-

ing to the prince, and openly declared he ac-

knowledged no mailer but the Sultan. The

Emir,

aftoniilied at this perfidy,

in vain de-

manded
flore the

juilice

of the Pacha of Damafcus.

to re-

Djezzar was difavowed, but not ordered

town. Piqued
at
ti^iis

refuial, the

Emir

complied at length with the general wiih of

the Druzes, and contracted an alliance with

Daher.

The

treaty

was concluded

near

Sour, and the Shaik, charmed with acquiring

fuch pov/erful friends, went immediately with

them
fhips,

to

reduce
for

the

rebel.

The
paft,

Rufiian

which,

lome time

had never

quitted the coaft,

now

joined
fix

the Druzes,

and, for a fecond

fum of
defired

iiundred purfes,

agreed to cannonade Bairout.

attack

This double
Djezzar,

had the

fuccefs.

notv/ithflanding his vigorous reiiflance, v/as

obliged to capitulate; he furrendered

felf

himAcre,

to

Daher

alone,

and followed him to

EG Y P T AN D
Acre,

YRT
have

A.
related,

123

from wherxe,

as I

he

efcaped foon after.

The
fuccefs

defection of the
:

Druzes did not

dif-

courage the Turks

in

the Porte expefting great

the intrigues fhe was then carryfrill

ing

0:1

in Ef^ypt,
ail

entertiiined
-,

hopes of

overcouiing

her enemies

flie

again placed

Ofman
limited

at

Damafcus, and gave him an unall

power over

Syria.

The

iirfl

ufe

he made of

this, v/as to aifemble

under his

orders fix Pachas, vvhofe forces he led th>rougli

the valley of Bekaa, to the village of Zaiila,

with intention
ous country.
the rapidity of

to penetrate into the

mountain-

The
its

flrength of this army,

and

march, fpread conllernation

on every

fide,

and the Emir Youfef, always

timid and irrefolute, already repented his alliance

with Daher j but

for

this

brave chief,
allies,

fe-

licitous

the

{d.fcty

of his

took

care to

provide

for

their

defence.

The

Tu'rks had hardly been encamped fix days, at

the foot of the mountains, before they learnt

that Ali, the fon of Daher,
to give
cellary
Vv^as

approaching

them
to

battle.

Nothing more was nethem.

In vain were
five

intimidate

they told the

horfe,

enemy had but

hundred

while they were upwards of five thoufand

424

TRAV
:

E L

fand flrong
fied

the

them

that

name of Ali Daher fo territhis whole army fled, in one

camp,
full

night, and

left their

of baggage

and ammunition,

to the inhabitants of Zahla.

it

After this fuccefs,

might be fuppofed
to

Daher would have allowed himfelf time

parations for his defence,

breathe, and have turned his attention to pre-

which were become

every

day more necefTary; but fortune had

determined he fliould no longer enjoy any repofe.

For

feveral years pall, domeftic trouit

bles

had accompanied foreign wars: and

latter,

was only by mea.ns of the

able to appeale

he had been

the former.

His children ^

who

were themfelves old men, were wearied

fo

cf waiting
befides

long for their inheritance; and,

conilant
difpofitlon

this

to
of,

revolt,

had

real grievances to

complain

which,

by giving
tents,

too

much
years,

reafon for their difcon-

rendered
feveral

them the more dangerous.

the
Chriilian

For

Ibrahim,
all

miniiler of the Shaik, had engroffed

his

confidence,
gratify his

which he (hamefuUy abufed

to

own
no

avarice.

He dared
however

not openly

exercife the tyranny of the

iiegle'fted

Turks; but he
unjuft,

means,

by

v.incix

he could amafs money.

He monopolized

EGYPT AND
llzcd every
article

SYRIA.
5

x^%

of commerce

he alone
articles

had the

fale

of corn, cotton, and other

of exportation j and he alone purchafed cloths,

indigo, fugars,

and other merchandize. His

real rights

avarice had frequently invaded the fappofed privileges,

and even the

of the Shaiksj

they did not pardon

him

this abufe

of power,

and every day,

plaint,

furnifliing frefli fubjecls of

com-

was produdive of new diilurbances.

Daher, whofe underftanding began to be impaired by his extreme old age, did not adopt

meafures

calculated to appeafe

them.

He

called his children rebels,

and ungrateful, and

imagined he had no faithful and difmterelred

fervant but Ibrahim
:

this infatuation ferved

only to deilroy

all refpedt for his

perfon,

and

to inflame and juftify

their difcontents.

The unhappy
difplayed

effedis

of this condud: fully

1774.
Since ihs
finding

themfelves
Ali

in

death

of

Bey,

Ibrahim,

he

had more
the

to fear than hope,

had abated fome-

thing of his haughtinefs.

He no

longer Liw

fame certainty of amaffing money

by
in

making war.

His

allies,

the Ruihans,

whom

all his

contidence was placed, began

talk of peace
;

themfelves

to

and thefe motives

io6
lives

TRAVELS
determined

IN
it,

him

likewife to conclude

for

which purpofe he entered

a

into a Treaty

with

Capidji
it

whom
down

the Porte maintained

at Acre,

was agreed that Caher and his

their arms, but retain

fons

f]}0Lild lay

the government of the country, by receiving

the Tralsy v/hich are the fym^bols of this authority.

But

it

was likewife

fiiipulated,

that

Saide fliould be reflored, and the Shaik pay

the miri, as he had done formerly.

Thefe
to

conditions were extremely diffatisfacLory

the fons of Daher, and the more fo becaufe

they were concluded v/ithout their participation.

They deemed
tributrries,

it

difgraceful again
ilill

to

become

and were

more

of-

fended that the Porte had granted to none

of them the
fore
all

title

of their father; they thereAll repaired

to Palefline,

revolted.

and took up

his quarters at

Habrcun

mad and
among

Seid

retired

to

Nablous,

AhOtman
;

the Arabs of Saker, and the remainder

in thefe dilTenfions.

of the year paffed

Such was the

iituation of aifairs,

when,

in

the beginning of 1775,

peared in Paleftine, with
able
to coUedl.

Mohammed- Bey apall

the forces he

was

Gaza, deftitute of

ammunition.

EGYPT AND
nition, did not venture to

SYRIA.
refill:.

127

Yafa, proud

of the part Ihe had aded

in

former difputes,

had more courage 3 the inhabitants took arms, and their refiftance had nearly difappointed
the vengeance of
tlie

Mamlouk
ftir^

but every

thing confpireJ to the defiruction of Daher,

The Druzes
iiftance

dared not
:

the

Motoualis
af-

were difcontented

Ibrahim fLim.moned

from every quarter, but he

his fohcitations

oftcred
efted:
;

no money, and

had no

he had not even the prudence

fions to the befie^ed,

to fend provi-

Thev

Vv^ere

comoelled

to furrender, and the road to Acre was laid

open to

tlie

enemy.

As foon

as the

taking
fled,

of Yafa was knovv^n, Ibrahim and Daher

and took refuge

himfelf and
his father;

in the

mountains of Safad.

Ali Daher, confiding in the treaty between

Mohammad,

took the place of

but foon perceiving he had' been

likewife,
in his

deceived, he took to flight,

turn, and

Acre remained

in the poiTeirion

of

the Mamlouks.
It

would have been

of this
death

difficult to forefee

the

confequences

revolution,
its

but

the

unexpedled
it,

of

author

rendered
flight

of a fudden, of no effed.

The

cf the Egyptians, leaving free the country

3

and

laS

TRAVELSIN
capital of
-,

and

Daher, he

loft

no time in re*

turning
peafed.

but the ftorm was by no means ap-

He

foon learnt that a Turkilh

fleet,

under the

command

of HafTan, the celebrat-

ed Captain Pacha, was laying fiege to Saide.

He

then difcovercd too

late the perfidy

of the

Porte,
feffions

which had

lulled his vigilance

by procon--

of friendihip,

while fhe was

certing with

Mohammad

Bey the means of

his defl:ru(5tion.

During a whole year that

the

Turks had been difengaged from the Ruflians, it was not difficult to forefee their
was in

intentions
it

from their morions. Still, however, his power to endeavour to prevent

j

the confequences of this error

tunately, even this

but, unfor-

he negled:ed.

Degnizla,

bombarded

in Saide

without hope of fuccour,

was

conftrained to evacuate the

town

and

the Captain Pacha appeared inllantiy before

Acre.

At

fight of tlie
to

enemy, a confultation
the danger,

was held how

this led to a

efcape

and
fate

quarrel,

which decided the

of Daher.

In a general

council,

Ibrahim gave his

:

opinion to repel force by force

his reafons

were, that the CapirJn Pacha had but three

large
vellels
;

that he could neither

make an
attack

EGYPT And

SYRIA.
that there

129

attack by land, nor remain at anchor, with-

out danger, before the caflle

was

a fuffieient force of cavalry and Barbary infantry to

hinder a defcent, and that

it

was

almoft certain the Turks would

relinquKh

the enterprize without attempting any thing.

In oppolition to him, Degnlzla declared for

peace, becaufe refillance could only prolong

the war

he maintained
of fo

It

was unreafonable
brave men,
eitedled
;

to expofe the lives

many
is

when
lefs

the fame obje(5t

might be

by

valuable means, that

by money

that

he was
rice

fufficlently acquainted

with the ava-

of the Captain Pacha, to be corrupted

affert
;

he would

fufFer himfelf to

and was cerhis de-

tain not only that

he could procure

parture, but even

make him

a friend,

for

the

fum of two thoufand purfes. This was precifely what Ibi-ahim dreaded he therefore
-,

exclaimed againfl the meafure, protefling there

was not
** *' **

medin

in

the Treafury.
**

Daher
is

fupported his allertion.

The
;

Shaik

in

the right," replied Degnlzla

"

his fervants

have long known that his generofity does not

fuffcr his

money
tlie
?

to ftagnate in his coffers

'*
**

but does not

money they obtain from him

belong to Iiim

And

can

it

be believed that

VcL. IL

" thus

t^o
''
'

TRAVELSIN
we know not where
At
thefe

thus entitled to them

find

to

two thoufand

purfes ?"

words

Ibrahim, interrupting him, exclaimed, that

.as

for himfelf,

no man could be poorer. " Say

with
ignorant, that for the lafl

"
**

bafer," rcfiuned Degnizla, tranfported

*'

rage.

Wlio

is

fourteen years, you have been heaping

up

*'
** **

enormous
polized

treafures

that you have

mono-

all
all

the trade of the country; that

you

icli

the lands, and keep back the

;

" payments
'
*'

that are due

that in the

war

of

Mahommad
territory

Bey,

you plundered the

carried

vv^hole
all

of Gaza,

away

*^ **

the corn, and left the inhabitants of

Vv'ithout the necelTaries

Yafa

of

life ?"

He

v/as proceeding,
filence,

when

the Shaik,

com-

manding

protefted the innocence of

his Minifter,

and accufed Degnizla of envy

Degnizla inilantly quitted the

and treachery.

council, and alTembling his countrymen, the

Mograbians or Barbary Arabs,

who com-

pofed the chief flrength of the place, forbid

them

to fire

upon the Captain Pacha.

Daher, however, determined to fland the

attack,

made every neceiiary preparation ; and,

Daher anfwered with
the

the next day, Haflan, approaching the caflle,

be^an the cannonade.

EGYPT AND
the few pieces near

SYRIA.
;

i3r
fpite

him

but in

of

his reiterated orders, the others did not

fire.

Finding himfelf betrayed,

horfe
;

he mounted his

and, leaving

the town

by the gatQ

which opens towards the gardens, on the

North, attempted
while he was
thefe gardens, a
to

gain the country

but,

pafling

along

the

walls

of

Mogtabian
in the loins,

foldier fliot

him
from

with a mufquet
his horfe,

and he

fell

when

the Barbary Arabs, infjantly

furrounding his body, cut off his head, which they carried to the Captain Pacha, who, ac-

cording to the odious cuftom of the Turks,

loaded
it

with infults while he furveyed

it

it.*

and had

pickled, in order to carry

it

to

Conflantinople, as a prefent to the Sultan^

and a fpedlacle

to the people.

Such was the

tragical

end of a man, in
a better fate.
It

many
is

refpe6ts,

worthy of
Syria

long fmce
fo

has

beheld

among her
In military

chiefs
affairs,

great

charad:er.

no

man

poffeffed

more courage, ac*

In politics,
di-

tivity,

coolnefs,

or

refources.

the noble franknefs of his

mind was not

minifhed even

by his ambition.

He was
;

fond only of brave and open meafures

and

heroically preferred the dangers of the iield

to

134

TRAVELS

IN
was
fort

to the wily intrigues of the cabinet; nor

it till

he had taken Ibrahim for his minifter

that his condudt

was blemilhed with a

of duplicity which that Chriflian called Prudence.

The
in

reputation

of his juftice had

ftates,

eftablidied,

throughout his

a fecurity

unknown

Turkey.

Differences in religi:

gion occafioned no difputes

toleration, or, perhaps,

he poiTefTed the

the indifference, of

the Bedouin Arabs.

He

had

alfo preferved

the limplicity of their cuflioms and manners.

His table was not

rich farmer
;

different

from that of a

the utmofl luxury of his drefs

never exceeded a few Peliffes, and he never

Vv'^ore

any trinkets.

The
as

greateff

expence he

incurred v/as in blood mares,

for

fome of

which he even paid

pounds.)

high

as

twenty thoutwenty-five

fand livres, (eight hundred and

He

likewife

loved

women; but
in

was

fo jealous

of decency and decorum, that

he ordered that every one taken

gallantry, or offering infult to a
fuffer death
difficult
rice,
:

an a6l of

woman, fhould
attained the

he had,

in

fliort,

medium between
at

prodigality and ava-

and was

once generous and ceconoVv^as it

mical.

Whence
4

then, that, with fuch

great qualities, he did not further extend,

and

more

EGYPT AND
more firmly
ftion a
eftablifli his

SYRIA.
?

133

power

To

this

que-

minute knowledge of his adniiniilrafurnifli

tion

would

an eafy anfwer, but

I iliall

content myfelf with aligning the three principal caufes.

Firfl,
rial

His povernment wanted that

inter-

good order,
all

and juflnefs of principle,

without which

improvement

mud

be flow

and

irregular.

Secondly,

the early conceflions he

made

to his children introduced a multitude of diforders,

which prevented the improvement of

finances, divi-

agriculture, impoveriflied his

ded his forces, and prepared the downfall of

himfelf and
the independant
flate

he had

founded.

A
the

third and

more

efficacious caufe than all

reft,

v/as the avarice of

Ibrahim Sabbar.
his

This man, abufing the confidence of

ter,

mafhis

and the wxaknefs incident

to age,

by

rapacity, alienated
fervants,
fo

from

him,

his children,
l.iy

and

allies.

His extortions even

heavy on the people, towards the end of

life,

his

as to render

them

indifferent v/hether

they returned under the Turkilh yoke.

paflion
f:)r

Hh
amid

money

v/as fo fordid,

that,

the wealth he was amafling, he lived only on

checfe

134

TRAVELSIN
j

cheefe and olives

and, fo great was his par-

fimony,
fliops

that

he frequently flopped at the

of the poorefl merchants, and partook

repaft.

of their frugal

He

never wore any

thing but dirty and ragged garments.

To

behold

this

meagre, one-eyed, wretch, one

rather for a beggar
ftate.

would have taken him

thefe vile pra6tices,

than the minifler of a confiderable

of French money,

By

he amafled about twenty

(eight

millions

hundred
fell

and twenty-five thoufand pounds), which

to the Turks.

No

fooner was the death of the public in-

Daher known
was
feized,

in Acre, than,

dignation breaking out againfl Ibrahim, he

and given up to the Captairi

no prefent could be more
report of this man's treait

Pacha, to
acceptable.
fures

whom
The

was general throughout Turkey 5

Bey, and was the principal

had

contributed to animate the refentment of

Mohamm.ad

mo-

tive of the meafures of the Captain

Pacha.

He

no fooner had him

in his

power than he

endeavoured to extort from him a declaration

of the fums he

poffeffed,
j

and the place where

In vain did

they were concealed

but Ibrahim firmly de^

nied any fuch treafure exifted.

the Pacha employ carelTes, menaces, and the

torture

EGYP
torture
-,

T A N D SYRIA.
;

135

all

were ineffedual

and

it

was

by-

other indications Hallan at length difcovered,

among
veral

the Fathers of the

Holy Land, and

fefo full

at the houfes of
cherts,

two French merchants,

large,

fo

and

of gold,
to carry

that the biggeft required eight

it.

men

With

this

gold were found alfo feveral

trinkets,

fuch as pearls and diamonds, and,

the Kandjar of Ali Bey, the

among

others,

handle of which was eftimated at upwards of

two hundred thoufand

thoufand pounds).
to

livrcs,

(above eight

All this

was conveyed

Conftantinople with Ibrahim,

who was
ferocious

loaded with chains.

Jiid infatiable,
flill

The Turks,

hoping to difcover new

to confeffion

treafures, inflidied tures, to force

afierted,

on him the mofl cruel tor;

him

but,

it is

he invariably maintained the hrm-

nefs of his character,

and

periflied

with a

courage worthy of a better caufe.

After the death

of Daher,

the Captain

Pacha confirmed Djezzar Pacha of Acre and Saide, and committed to him the care of compleating the deflrudion of the rebels.
ful to his inflrucflions,

Faith-

Djezzar alternately

attacked them by ftratagem and force, and

fo-

136

TRAVELS

IN
Seid,

fo far fucceeded, as to

induce Otman,

and Ahmad, to
hands.
they wiflied for
year

deliver themfelves

into his

Ali Daher alone refufed, and

him

moft.

In

the following

{iyy^)>

the Captain Pacha returned,

and, in concert with Djezzar, befieged Ali,

in

Dair-Hanna, a flrong-hold, about

free themfelves

a day's

journey from Acre,

but he efcaped them.

their fears,

To

from

they

em-

ployed a ftratagem worthy of their character.

They fuborned fome Barbary Arabs, who, pretending to have been difmilled from Damafcus,

came into the country where Ali was enAfter relating their hiflory to his

camped.
the Shaik.

attendants, they applied to the hofpitality of

Ali received them as became an

;

Arab, and a brave man

falling

but thefe wretches,

on him
to

in the night, maflacred

him,

and haftened

demand
able to

their reward,

though

they were not

head.

bring with them his

The

Captain Pacha, having no longer

fear

any thing

to

from

Ali,

m.urdered his
their children.

brothers, Seid,

Ahmad, and
was

Otman

alone, on account of his extraordinary

fpared,

talents for poetry,

and carried

to Conflantinople.

Degnizla,

who was

fent

from

EGYPT AND
from
that capital to

SYRIA,

137
title

Gaza, with the

of

governor, periflied on the road, not without

fufpicions of poifon.
rified at thefe events,

The Emir
made
his

Youfef, ter-

peace with

Djezzar ; and, from that time, Galilee, again

fubjed:ed to the Turks, only retains an
profitable

un-

remembrance

of the

power of

Daher.

CHAP.

13?

TRAVELSIN
CHAP.
XXYI.
into Fachalics,
dijlribntion

^he

of Syria

under

the TurkiJJ.^ go'vernmcni.

After
vince,
like

Sultan Sellm

I.

had taken Syria

to the

from the Mamlouks, he fubjed;ed that prothe

reft

of the empire,

government of Viceroys, or Pachas faj, inveflThe more efFeced with unUmited power.
taaily to fecure his authority, he divided the

country into
lics,

five

Governments, or Pachaftill

which

divifion

remains.

Thefe

Pachahcs are thofe of Aleppo, Tripoly, and Saide, lately removed to Acre ; that of Damafcus, and,
laftly,

thatof Paleftine, the feat of

at

which

is

fometimes

Gaza, and fometimes

at

Jerufalem. Since the time of Selim, the limits

of thefe Pachalics have often varied,

their

but

general extent has always been nearly

I
fliall

the fame.

now

proceed to give a

more circumllantial
terelling

detail

of the mofl inprefent Hate,

forces,

particulars

of their

fuch as the revenues,

produdtions,

and moil: remarkable places.

(a)

The Turkifh word

Pacha^

is

formed of the two

Perfian words Pa-fjcth^ which literally fignify Viceroy.

CHAP.

EGYPT AND
C
Of
J-

SYRIA,
XXVII.

139

H A

P.

the Fachalic of Aleppo.

HE

Pachalic

of

Aleppo

comprehends

the country, extending from the Euphrates

to the Mediterranean, between

two

lines,

one

drawn from Scandaroon to mountains ; the other from

fpace principally confifls of

Beer, along the

Beles

to the fea,

by Mara, and the bridge of Shoger.

This
-,

two

plains

that

of Antioch to the weil, and that of Aleppo

to the eaft
:

the north and the fea coafl are

occupied by confiderably

high mountains,

known
foil

to

the

ancients

by the names

of

Amanus,

and of Rhofus.

In general, the
fat

of this
lofty

government

is

and loamv.
(lioot

The

and vigorous plants, which

after the winter rains,
its

up every where
its fertility, little.

prove
is

but

adtual fruitfulnefs

but
lies

The

greateft part

of the lands

wafte; fcarcely can

we

trace any

marks of
towns and

cultivation, in the environs of the

villages.
Its

principal produce confifts in

wheat, barley,

and cotton, which are found

In the

efpecially in the flat country.

mountains.

14,

TRAVELS

IN
The fides of

tains, tJiey rather chufe to cultivate the vine,

mulberry, olive, and fig-trees.

the hills towards the fea-coaft are appropriat-

ed to tobacco, and the territory of Aleppo,

to
Piftachiog.

The

pafturage
is

is

not to be

reckoned, becaufe that

abandoned to the

wandering
Curds.

Hordes

of

the

Turkmen and

In the greater part of the Pachalics, the

Pacha

is,

as his

title

imports, at once the

Viceroy and Farmer-general of the country;

but in that of Aleppo, he does not

latter
office.

poflefs the

This the Porte has beftowed

on

a Mehajely or colledor,

who
he

is

immediate-

ly accountable for what

leafe
is

receives.

His

only for a year.

is

The

prefent rent of
purfes,

his

farm

eight hundred

which
(above

make
added,

a million

of French m.oney,
;

forty thoufand pounds)

but to

this

muft be
thoufand

the price of the bahoujloes (b)y or a

or one hundred

prefent of eighty
livres,

(three or four thoufand pounds), to

purchafe the favour of the Vilir, and

office.

men

in

For

thefe

two fums, the farmer

re-

ceives all the duties of the

{h)

government, which

Turkifh

flippers.

are;

EGYPT AND
are;
Firil the

SYRIA.

14.1

produce of import and export

duties on merchandize
India,

coming from Europe,

and

and

Conllantinople,

on

that
taxes

exported in exchange.
paid by the herds year

Secondly,

The

of cattle brought

every

by

the

Turkmans and Curds, from

to be fold in Syfait

Armenia and the Diarbekar,

ria.

Thirdly,

The

fifth

of the

works of

Djeboul.
tax,
.to

And,

laftly.

The

Miri, or landfifteen

Thefe united may produce from

hundred
thoufand
livres,

fixteen

(above

fixty

thoufand pounds). Pacha,

deprived

The

of

this

lucrative

branch of the adminiftration, receives a fixed

allowance of eighty thoufand
piafters,

(eight

thoufand three hundred add thirty pounds).

This revenue has always been inadequate to

the expences; for,
befides

the troops he

is

obliged to maintain, and the reparation of the

highvv'ays

and
is

fortrefles,

the
is

expences

of

which he
neceihty of
niflers,
in.

to

defray, he

under the

making

large prefents to the m.i-

order to keep his place; but the

Porte adds to the account, the contributions

he may levy on the Curds and Turkmans, and

his

extortions

from the

villages

and indivithis

duals; nor do the

Pachas come fhort of

calculation.

142

TRAVELSIN
Abdi
Pacha,
?.gOy

calculation.

who

governed

twelve or thirteen years

carried off, at

the end of fifteen months, upwards

millions of livres,

of four
fixty

(one hundred

and

thoufand pounds) by laying under contribution

every trade, even

the

very cleaners of

tobacco pipes ; and, very

lately,

another of the

fame name has been obliged

lar

to fly for fimi-

oppreffions.

The
;

former v^as rewarded

by the Divan with the command of an army

againfl the Ruffians

but

if

the latter has not

enriched himfelf, he will be ftranglcd as an

extortioner.

Such

is
!

the ordinary

progrefs

of

affairs in

Turkey
requires

Cuflom the Pacha

but
it is

that the commiflion of

;

fliould

be only for three months

fix,

frequently extended to

and even
province

to a year.

His

office is to retain the

in obedience, and provide for the fecurity of

the country againfl every foreign and domeftic

enemy.

For

this

purpofe he maintains

five or fix

hundred horfe, and about the fam.e

infantry.

number of
the
fort

Befides

thefe,

he has
are

command
is

of the Janifaries,

who
As

of enrolled national

militia.

this

corps

found throughout

all Syria,

it

will

be

EGYPT AND
be proper
to fay a

SYRIA.

143
its

few words concerning

I

conflitution.

The
rolled

Tanifaries

have mentioned

confift.

in each Pachalic, of a certain number of en-

men, who muil hold themfeives ready

are required.

to

march whenever they

As

there are certain privileges and exemptions

attached to their body, there

to obtain admiilion into
it.

is

a competition

Formerly they

were
but

fubje(51:

to regular cxercife and difcipline;

all

obfervance of this has fo

lafl iixty

declined*

within the

or eighty years, that there

ilighteil: trace

no longer remains the

ancient good
order.

of their
foldiers
as

Thefe pretended

are only a croud of artizans

and peafants,

ignorant as the

reil:

of that

clafs,

but infinite-

ly lefs trad:able.

When

a Pacha abufes his

firfl;

authority,

they are always the

to

ere(^

the flandard of fedition.

expelled

They

depofed and

Abdi Pacha from Aleppo, and comrevenges

itfelf,

pelled the Porte to fend another in his ftead.

The Turkifh government

is

it

true,

by ordering the moft

active

muti-

neers to

be ftrangled; but, on the

firfl

op-

portunity, the Janiiaries

create other chiefs,

and

aitairs return to their ufual courfe.

The

Pachas, feeing themfeives thwarted by this

3
national

#44

Travels
made
ufe

in

national militia,

have had recourfe to the exof in limilar cafes j they

foldiers into their fervice,

pedient

have taken foreign

who
and

have neither friends nor families

in the

country.

Thefe are of two

forts, cavalry

infantry^

The

cavalry,

who

alone merit the

name of
and

foldiers, for this reafon

aiTume the appellation of

likevvife T>cUbaJhes

Daoula or

Deletiy

and

Lawend, from whence we have formed LeTheir arms are fliort fabres, piftols, 'uenti.
muflcets,

and lances. They wear a kind of cap,

a long cylinder of black felt, nine or

which
VtVi

is

inches high, and w^ithout any prcjeding

J

rim

it

is

extremely inconvenient, as

it

does

not {hade the eyes, and

heads.

eaiily falls off their

bald

Their faddles are made

in the

EngliHi

manner,

of a fmgle fkin ftretched upon a

bare, but not the lefs
as

wooden tree; they are incommodious for this,

leo-s

they throw out the

of the rider, fo as
reft

to prevent

him from

clinging; in the

of their accoutrements
refemble
the

and
louks

cloathing,
:

they

Mam-

with

this

difference, that
fo good.

they are

not provided

with

Their ragged
their horfes of

clothes, their rufly arms,

different fizes,

and

make them refemble

banditti

more

EGYPT AND
more than foldiers; and, part of them have firll
felves in the

SYRIA.

145

in fad:, the greatcfl

diflinguifhed

them-

former capacity, nor have they

greatly changed in adopting their fecond oc-

cupation.
are

Almoft

all

tiie

cavalry

in Syria

Turkmans, Curds, or Caramanians; who,

of robbers, in their
country, feek employment and an afynear the perfon of the Pacha.

after exerciling the trade

own
lum
ner,

Through-

out the empire, thefe troops

are, in like

man-

formed of plunderers, v/ho roam from

to

place

place.
their

From want

of difcipline,

they retain

former manners, and are

the fcourge of the country, v/hich they lay

wafle, and of the peafants,
pillage

whom
ilill

they often

by open

force. inferior in

The

infantry are a corps

every refpedt.

Formerly they were procured

from the inhabitants of the country by forced

iniiflments
years,
;

but, within the lail fifty or iixty

the peaiants of Tunis,

Algiers,
to feek

and

Morocco, have thought proper

ria

m Syis

and in Egypt,

that refped:

which

de-

nied

them

in their ov/n country.

They

alone,

under the nam.e of Magarba, Mograbians, or

Men

of the Weji, compofe the infantry of the

it

Pachas. So that, by a whimfical exchange,

Vol.

II.

happens.

146

TRAVELS
that

IN
Barbary

happens,

the foldiery of the

States confiil of Turks, while that of the Turks

is

compofed of the

natives of Barbary.
lefs

It is

impoflible for troops to be

encumbered

than thefe; for their whole accoutrements and

baggage are confined to a ruily firelock, a large

knife,

leathern

bag,

cotton

fhirt,

pair of drawers,
flippers.

a red cap, and fometimes

is

Their pay

five

piaflres

(about

ten fhillings and ten-pence) per month, out

of which
felves

they are obliged to furnifh them-

with arms and cloathing.

They

are

maintained at the expence of the Pacha j

which, altogether, may be elleemed tolerable

encouragement;
the pay

of the cavalry

is

double, and each horfeman has, befides this,

his horfe

and

his ration,

which

is

a meafure

of chopped ftraw, and

ley a

fifteen

pounds of bar-

day.

Thefe troops are divided, in the

reckoned ten men, but they
fix efFe(flives
:

ancient Tartar manner, by bairaks, or colours

each bairak
rarely confiil

is

of above
is,

the rea-

fon of v/hich

that the Agas, or

commanders

of colours,
the foldiers,
profit

being entrufi:ed with the pay of

maintain as few as pofiible, to

deficiency.

by the

The

fuperior

Agas
nay.

tolerate thefe abufes,

and partake of the

fpoils;

EGYPT AND
nay, the

SYRIA.

147

Pachas themfelves dilregard them,

and, in order to avoid the payment of the

complete number,

connive at

the rapicity

and want of

difcipline of their troops.

In confequence of fuch wretched govern-

ment, the greater part of the Pachalics

in the

empire are impoveriflied and

is

laid wafle.

This

the cafe in particular with that of Aleppo.

In the ancient deftars^ or regifters of impoils,

upwards of three thoufand two hundred

lages

vil-

were reckoned; but, atprefrnt, the collec-

tor can fcarcely find four hundred.

Such of our

merchants

as

have refided there twenty years,

have themfelves feen the greater part of the

environs of Aleppo
traveller

become depopulated. The

ufelefs,

meets with nothing but hoi.;cs in

ruins,

cifterns

abandoned.
fled

and fields Thofe who cultivated them are

rendered

into the towns,

where the population

at leafl

is

abforbed, but

where

the

individual

conceals himfelf

among

the

crowd from the

rapacious hand of defpotifm.

The
this

places

which merit moft

firfi:,

attention in

Pachalic are,

the city of Aleppo,

called
(c)

by the Arabs Halab (c).

is
:

This

city is

This

the

name of which

the ancient geographers

;

made Chalyhon

the ch reprefents here the Spaniihy^/^^

and
it

I4S

T R A V

E L

N
fituated in the

the capital of the province,

refidence of the Pacha.
vail:

and the ordinary

is

It

plain

which extends from the

and which,

O rentes

to
the'

the

Euphrates,

towards

fouth, terminates in the defert.

The

fituation

of Aleppo, befide the advantage of a rich and

fruitful foil,
polTeiTes alfo that

of a ftream of

frefh water,
rivulet,

v/nich never becomes dry. This

is

which

about as large as that of the

Gobelins at Paris (or the

New River near LonAleppo, in a

don)

rifes

in the

mount;ins of Aentab, and

terminates fix

leagues below

morafs

full
its

of wild boars and pelicans. Near banks, inflead of the naked rocks

Aleppo,

which
courfe,
laid

line

them

in

the

upper part of
iertile earth,

its

are covered

with a

and

out in gardens, or rather orchards, which^

in a

hot country, and efpecially in Turkey,

cannot but be delightfuL

felf

The

city

is

in itis,

one of the moft agreeable in Syria, and

perhaps, the cleaneft and befl built of any in

Turkey.
its

On

whatever

fide

it is

approached,

numerous minarets and domes prefent an

remarkable, that the modern Greeks
jota;
ftill

it

is

render the

Arabic ^ by the fame found of

thoufand double meanings in their

which cccafions a converfation, as the Arabs

aorreeable

have the jota

in

another

letter.

EGYPT AND
the

SYRIA.

149

agreeable profped to the eye \tigued

with

continued famenefs of the brown and

In the center
is

parched plains.

an

artificial

mountain, furrounded by a dry ditch, on which

is

a ruinous fortrefs.

From hence we have

whole
city,

jine profped; of the

and, to the

north, difcover the fn owy tops of the

tains of Bailan^ and,

mounto

on the weft, thofe which from the

fea
;

feparate the

O rentes
eaft,

while,

the fouth and

the eye can difcern as far

In the time of

as the Euphrates.

Omar,

this
fe-

caflle flopped theprogrefs

of the Arabs for

veral

monthc, and was,

atlaft,

taken by treachable to re-

ery, but, at prefent,

fill

would not be

the feeblefl affault.

buttrefs,

Its flight wall,

is

low,

and without a

in ruins j

its little
it

old towers are in no better condition; and

has not four cannon

ing a culverine,

fit

for fervice, not except-

nine feet long, taken from

the Perfians at the fiege of Bafra (Baffora).

Three hundred and

{hops, and ihe

fifty

Janifaries,

who
it

fhould form the garrifon, are bufy in their

Aga

fcarcely finds
It is

room
the

in

to

lodge his retinue.

remarkable that this

Porte,
vs

Aga

is

named immediately by
the
diiferent offices.

which, ever fufpicious,

pofilble,

divides, as

much

Within the
walls

150

TRAVELSIN
is

walls of the caftle

a well, which, by

means
derives

of a fub terraneous communication,

its

water from a fpring a league and a quarter

In the environs of the city,

diflant.

we

find a

number of
which
is

large fquare ftones, on the top of

a turban of ftone,

and which are

riling

fo

many tombs.

There

are

many

grounds

round it, which, incafeof afiege, would greatly facilitate the approaches of the afTailants.

Such, among

others,

is

that

on which the
Aleppo,

houfe of the Dervifes (lands, and which com-

mands the canai and the

portar ce in v/ar, though
ria
it

rivulet:

therefore, cannot be efteemed a place of

im-

be the key of Sy-

to the norths but, confidered as a

it

comthe

mercial city,
It
is

has

diiterent

appearance.

the

emporium of

Armenia and

Diarbekar;

fends caravans to

Bagdad, and

into Perfiaj and

fian

communicates with the Per-

Gulph and India, by Bafra ; with Egypt and Mecca by Damxafcus; and with Europe
by Skandaroon (Alexandretta) and Latakia.

Commerce is The barter.

villages

there principally carried on by

chief commodities are

raw or
city,

fpun cottons, coarfe linens fabricated in 'the

j

filk fluffs

manufadlured in the

copper, bourrers (coarfe cloths) like thofe of

Rouen,

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

151

Rouen, goats hair brought from NatoHa; the gall nuts of the Kourdeflan, the merchandize
of India, fuch
as Ihawls

(dj and muflins

and piftachio nuts of the growth of the The articles fupplied by neighbourhood.
Europe, are the Languedoc cloths, cochineal,
indigo, fugar, and
coffee of

fome other

groceries.

The
is

America, though prohibited,

in-

troduced, and ferves to

mix with
Aleppo

that of Moka.
a

The French have

at

conful,

and

feven counting-houfes; the EngliHi and the

Venetians two, and ^the merchants of Leghorn

and Holland one.

a conful there, in

The Emperor

appointed

1784, in the perfon of a

fhaved his beard to.
Ruflia

rich

Jew merchant, who

one

aifume the uniform and the fword.

has
alfo fent
is

very lately.

Aleppo
city in

not

exceeded in extent by any

Turkey, except Conftantinople and

Cairo, and perhaps Smyrna.

The number of
ell

(d) Shawls are woollen handkerchiefs, an

wide, and
that the

The wool whole handkerchief may be

near two long.
clofed
:

is

fo fine

and

filky,

contained in the two hands

is

It

is

faid that

no wool

employed but that of

tim.e

lambs torn from the

birth.

belly of their

mother before the

of

The

moft beautiful fhawls are brought from Cafnis

mire

their price

from 150

livres (about fix guineas),

to

1200

livres (or 50I. ilerling).

inha-

152

T R A V
thoufand;
is

E L

N
at

inhabitants has been

computed
in

two hunif

dred

but,

thefe calculations,

certainty

impofiible.

However

we ob-

ferve, that this city is not larger

than Nantes

orMarfcilles, and that the houfes confiil only

of one

f!:ory,

we

fliall,

perhaps, not think

it

probable they exceed a hundred thoufand.

The

people of this city, both Turks and Chriflians, are, v/ith reafon,

efteemed the moft ci-

vilized

in

all

Turkey; and the European

fo

merchants no where enjoy

or are treated with fo

much

liberty,

rr/acii refpedt.
is

The

air

of Aleppo

very ary and piercing,

but, at the fame time, very faiubrious for all

who

are not troubled

with afthmatic com-

plaints.

The
is

city,

however, and the envi-

rons, are fubjed: to a fingUlar endemial difordQiy

which

called the
in
fa<ft

ringworm or pimple
a pimple
at length

of Aleppo j
firil

it is

which

is

at

nuiammatory, and

becomes an
ufual durafixes

ulcer of the fize of a nail.

tion of this ulcer
is

The

one

ye:i.r; it

commonly

on the
moft

face,

and leaves a fear uith which alIt is

ail

the inhabitants are disfigured.

alledged that every ftranger,

who

refides tljere

three months,

is

attacked v/ith

it;

experience

has taught that the befc

mode of treatment
is

EGYPT AND
is

SYRIA.
The
I

15-^

to

make

ufe of no remedy.
is

caufe of
it

this

malady

unknown

but

fufped

proceeds from the quality of the water, as

it
is

iikewife frequent in the neighbouring

villages, in

fome

parts of the Diarbekar,

and

even in certain
the
foil

dillridis

near Damafcus,

where

and the water have the fame appear-

ances.

Every bdy has heard of the pigeons of

Aleppo, which ferve as couriers at Alexandretta
is

and Bagdad.

This ufe of them, which

laft

not fabulous, has been laid afiue for the

thirty or forty years, becaufe the

Curd robthey took

bers

killed

the

pigeons.

The manner of
:

fending advice by them was this

pairs

which had young

ones, and carried

them
let

on horfeback

to the place

from whence they

taking care to

wiihed them to return,

them have

a full view.

When

any advices
tied a billet

were received, the correfpondent

to the pigeon's foot, and let her loofe.

bird, impatient to fee
its

The
hours

young, flew off like

lightning, and arrived at

Aleppo

in ten

from Alexandretta, and

dad.
It vvas

in

two days from Bag-

not ditliculi for

them

to find their

way back,

flnce

Aleppo may be difcovered

at

an immenfe difcance. This pigeon has nothing

peculiar

^54:

TRAVELS
its

IN
which,
are fwelled

peculiar in

form, except

its noflrils,

inftead of being

fmooth and even,

and rough.

The

confpicuous lituation of Aleppo brings

fea birds thither,
:

numbers of
dinner on

and
if

affords the
after

curious a fmgular amufement

you go

the terraces of the houfes,

as if

and

make

motion

throwing bread, numewill

rous flocks of birds

inftantly fly

round

you, though at

firfl:

you cannot difcover one ^

aloft

but they are floating

defcend in a

in the

air,

and

moment

to feize, in their flight,

the morfels of bread, which the inhabitants

frequently amufe themfelves with throwing to

them.

Next

to Aleppo, Antioch, called

by the

Arabs Antakia, claims our attention. This city, anciently renowned for the luxury of its
inhabitants,
is

now no more
built

than a ruinous
v^^ith

town,

whofe houfes,

mud

and

ilraw, and narrow and miry flreets, exhibit

every appearance of mifery and wretchednefs.

It
is

fituated

on the fouthern bank of ^he

covered to
the fouth by a
is

Orontes, at the extremity of an old decayed

bridge,

and

is

mountain, upon the flope of which

built

a wall,

by the Crufaders.

The diflance between

the

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

155

the prefent town and this mountain

may be
is

about four hundred yards, which fpace

oc-

cupied by gardens and heaps of rubbifh, but

prefcnts nothing interefting.

Notwithftanding the unpolifhed manners

of
its

inhabitants, Anticch

was

better calcu-

lated than

Aleppo

to

be the emporium of the

Europeans.

By

clearing the
is

mouth of

the

Orontcs, which

fix

leagues lower

down,

boats might have been towed up that river,

though they could not have failed up,

as

Pococke has
pid.

afferted

its

current

is

too ra-

The

natives,
it,

who

never

knew
is,

the

name

Orontes,

call

on account of the fwiftnefs

the Rebel.

of

its jftream,

El-aafi (e)^ that

Its breadth,

at Antioch, is about forty paces.

it

Seven leagues above that town,

a lake
eels.

pafTes

by

abounding in

iiili,

and efpecially in
thefe are faked

great quantity of

every year, but not fafficient for the

rous fails of the

numeIt is to

Greek

Chriftians.

be remembered,
tioch,
either

we no

longer hear at

Anor

of the Grove of Daphne,

it

of the voluptuous fcenes of v/hich

theatre.
{e)

was the

This

is

the

name which

the

Greek Geographers have

rendered by

Ax'ios.

The

156

TRAVELS
is

IN
foil

The plain
is

of Antloch, though the

but the

of

it

^ceilent,

uncultivated, and abandoned to

;

the Turkmans

hills

on the

fide

of the

Orontes, particularly oppolite Serkin, abound

in plantations of figs

and

olives,

vines,

and

mulberry

trees,

which, a thing
in

uncommon in

Turkey, are planted

exhibit a landfcape
vinces.

quincunx (f), and

v/orthy our fineft pro-

The Macedonian king, Seleucus Nicator, who founded Antloch, built alfo, at the
mouth of
bank,
the Orontes,

on

the

northern

a large and well fortified city,

which

bore his name, but of which at prefent, not a

fingle habitation remains
:

nothing

is

to be ittn

but heaps of rubbilh, and works in the adjacent

rock,

which prove that

this

was once

a place
fea,

of very confiderable importance.

alfo,

Jn the

may be

perceived the traces of two piers,

v/hich are indications of an ancient port,

now

choaked up.
o-o

The

inhabitants of the country

thither to fifh, and call the

place Souaidia.

name of the From thence, as we prois

ceed to the north, the fea-coil

of planting {f) This mode ufe ivmong the Druzes, and is
in

fhut in by a
is

^uncunx\

likewife in

particularly

mentioned by

Baron de Tott,
1

chain

EGYPT AND
chain of high mountains,
cient geographers

SYRIA.
known ti name of
in
rhci

157

an-

by the

R/b':us

which name was probably derived from the

Syriac,

and

flill

fiibiiils

that of Ras-ela

Kaiizir, or

Cape of the V/ild Boar,

towards
the

head-

land on this coaft.

The Gulph,
Alexandretta, or
bears the name.
fea-fliore,
is,

north-eafi:,

is

remarkable for nothing

but

the

town

of
it

Skandaioon,

of which
fituated

This town,
properly

on the

fpeaking,
in

nothing

but a village, without walls,

which the

more numerous than the houfes, and which entirely owes its exiftence to
tombs
are

the road which

it

commands.
Syria,

This
velTels

is

the

only road, in

all

where

anchor

on

a folid bottom,
-,

without their cables bebut, in other refpeds,

it

ing liable to chafe has fo

many

ferious inconveniencies, that ne-

ceiTity alone

can prevent the merchants from

it.

abandoning
Firft, It

is

expofed, during winter,

to
this

to a

wind, peculiar

place,

called

by the
rufliing

French

failors

Ragiiier,

which,

from the fnowy fummits of the mountains,

frequently forces fhips to drag their anchors
feveral leagues.

Secondly,

158

TR A V

E L

when the fnow begins to cover the mountains which fiirround the Gulph, tempeftuous winds arife which prevent vefSecondly,
fels

from entering

for three or four

months

together.

Thirdly,

The

road from Alexandretta to

is

Aleppo, by the plain,

robbers,

infeiled

by Curd
in

who

conceal

themfelves

the

neighbouring rocks (g)y and frequently attack and plunder the flrongefl; caravans.

Another
is

realon,

more

forcible than thefe,

the unwholefomenefs of the air of Alex-

andretta,

which
it

is

extreme.

It

may be

af-

firmed, that

every year carries oft one third

veflels

of the crews of the

which remain
fhips

there

during the fummer;

lofe all their

nay,

frequently

men

in

two m.onths.
is
:

The
it is

fea-

fon for this epidemic diforder

principally

from
and

May to the end

is

of September

an in-

termitting fever of the moft malignant kind,

accompanied with

obflirudtions

of the
ci-

liver,
ties

which terminate

in a dropfy.

The

of Tripoli, Acre, and Larneca in Cyprus,

(g)

The

place they are found in exaflly correfpoiids

with the Caftle of Gyndarus, which, in the time of Strabo,

was

a haunt of robbers.

are

EGYPT AND
are fubje<5t to the

SYRIA.

159

fame
all

diforder,

though in

lefs

degree.

In

thefe places the

fame

local circumftances feem to

have given birth

it

to the contagion

the caufe of

in all

is

to

be afcribed
exhalations

to the adjoining moralTes, ftagnant

waters, and confequent vapours and mephitic

:

a convincing proof of this

is,

that this diforder does not prevail in feafons

when no

rain has fallen.

is

But, unfortunately,
its
it

Alexandretta

condemned, from

fituation,
;

to be never wholly
plain

exempt from
is

for the
fo

on which the town

flat f/jj

built

is

low
they
fea,

and

that the rivulets, finding no defea.

clivity,

can never reach the

When
the

are

fwelled

by the winter
into

rains,

fwelled likewife by tempefls, hinders their dif-

charging
waters,

themfelves

it

hence

their

forced to fpread

themfelves,

form

lakes in the plain.

On

the approach of the

fummer, the waters become corrupted by the heat, and exhale vapours equally corrupt,

which cannot

difperfe,

being confined by the

mountains that encircle the gulph.

(h) This plain, which
lies
is

The

about a league in breadth, and

at the foot of the

mnuntnins, has been formed by the

the torrents and rains.

earth, brought

down by

entrance

i6o

TRAVELS
in thofe countries,
is

IN
lies to

entrance of the bay, belides,

the well,

which,

the mofl un-

healthy expofure

when

it

correfponds with

the

fea.

The

labour necelTary to remedy this

after all infufficient;

would be immenfe, and

and,
indeed,

fuch an
impoiTible,

undertaking

would

be

abfolutely
like that

under a govern-

ment
the

of the Turks.

A
of

few years
Alexanport

ago, the merchants of Aleppo, difgujfled with

numerous inconveniencies
wiflied
to

dretta,

abandon

that

and

carry

tl;ie

trade to Latakia.
to

They propofed
repair

to the

Pacha of Tripoli
their

the har-

bour

at

own

expence,

provided

he
all

would grant them an exemption from

duties for

ten years.

To
of

induce

him

to

comply with
employed

their requeft,

the agent they

the

talked

much

advantage
the whole

which would, in time, " But, what country

:

refult to
lignifies

to

me

vvhat
?

*'
**

may happen

i;i

time,

replied the

Pacha

was yefterday at Marach ; to-morrow, per" haps, I fhall be at Djedda why fhould I " deprive myfelf of prefent advantages, which
-,

**

are certain,

for future benefits I cannot

?

*'

hope

to partake

"

The European
at

fad:ors

were obliged therefore to remain

Skandaroon.

EGYPT AND
roon.

SYRIA.

iBt

There

are

three of thefe fa6tors,

two

for the French, and one for the

Enghfh and
which they
in fix

Venetians.

The

only

curiofity

have

to

amufe Grangers with

Here

confifls

or {even marble monnmeiits, fent from

land, on v/hich you re:id
:

Enga
oncy

lies ftich

carried off in the fhivcr of bis age, hy the fatal

effeSls
is

of a contagious

air.

The
as

light of thefe
air,

the

more

diflrefiinc^,

the languid

yellow complexion, livid eyes, and dropfical

bellies of thofe

who Ihew
is

them, m.ake

it

but

too

probable
fate.

they cannot
It

long eicape the

fame

true,

they have ibme retlie

fource in the village of Bailan,

pure

air

and excellent waters of

reflore

v/:iich

furprizingly
fituated

the the

fick.

This

village,

among

mountains,

three
to

leagues from

Alexandretta, on the road

fents the

Aleppo, preIt is

moil pi(5turefque appearance.

precipices in a

built

among
is

narrow and deep

valley,

from whence the Gulph of Skandafeen as through a tube.

roon
built

The

houfes,

againll:

the

ftcep

declivities

of the
the

two mountains,
terraces
.

are fo

difpofed,

that

cf the lower ferve as

itreets

and

courts to thofe above.

In winter, cafcades
fide,

pour down on every

which ilun the

inhabitants

^ (^"L.

II.

162

T RAV

E L

N
fall,

inhabitants with their noife, and, in their

lometimes, rend off large pieces of the rocks,

and even throw down the houfes.

is

The

cold

very fevere there, during that feafon, but

the

fummer

delightful

the inhabitants,

who

fpeak only Turkifh, live on their goats and

buffaloes,

and the produce of a few gardens

cultivate.

which they

The Aga,

for

fome
ufe,

years pail, has applied the duties of the cuf-

tom-houfe of Alexandretta to his

own

and rendered himfelf almofl independent of The Turkifh empire the Pacha of Aleppo.
is

full

of fuch rebels,

who

frequently die

in peaceable poffeffion of their ufurpations.

On

the road from Alexandretta to Aleppo,

travellers fleep
at,
is

at the laft place

village of

the

Martawan, celebrated among the Turks and Europeans, on account of an extraordinary practice of the inhabitants,
let

who
tri-

out their wives and daughters for a

fling fum fij. This proftitution, held in abhorrence by the Arabs, feems to me to have
See Baron de Tott^s Memoirs.

(/)

M.

du Rochcr,

now

refidenC of the king of

furniflied

France with the Emperor of

with

Morocco, has

me

many

entertaining anec-

dotes refpe6ting this whimfical cuftom, but too indelicate

for the prefs.

T.
originated

EGYPT AND SYRIA

briginated
in

163

feme
to

religious cuflom,

which

ought perhaps

be fought for in the an-

cient worship of the goddefs Venus, or to be

community of women permitted by the Aiifarians, to which tribe the of Martawan belong. The inhabitants
attributed
to the

Franks pretend that the

but
it is

women

are pretty

probable that long abftinence at

intrigue,

fea,

and the vanity of

thing
mifery.

constitute' all

their merit j for their exterior

announces noof

but

the

difgufling

uneleaniinefs

In

the

mountains which terminate

to

the
find
vil-

Pachahc of Aleppo
Kles
lages.

the north,

we

and Aentah,

two

confiderable

They

are

inhabited

by

Armenian
reli-

Chriflians,

Curds, and Mahometans^ who,

notwithflanding the difference of their

gions, live in friendfliip, and,

by

their union,

are enabled to refill the Pacha,

whom

they
the

often

brave,

and enjoy

in

tranquillity

produce of their flocks, bees, and a few cultivated

fpots

on which they grow corn and

tobacco (k),
[k)

Thefe towns

fuccefsfully revolted in

1780, againft

the tyranny of the Second

Abdi Pacha, mentioned by our

author.

T.

Ma

Two

i64

TRAVELS
days journey
is

Kf

Two
Aleppo
in

to

the

north-eafl of
fo celebrated

the

town of Mambedj,

ancient times, under the names of

(/).

Bamremain

byce, and Hierapolis

No

traces

of the temple of that great goddefs with

made us acquaintThe only remarkable monument is a ed. fubterraneous canal, which condu(5ls the
vvhofe woriliip Lucian has

water from the mountains of the north for

tl.c

diiiance of four leagues.

All this coun-

try

was formerly

full

of fuch aqueducfts; the

it

Affyrian?, Medes,
religious
defert,

and Perfians, efteemed

duty to convey the water to the

according to the
life

in order to multiply,

precepts of Zoroaller, the principles of

and

of abundance : we therefore, at every ftep, mset with aflonifning proofs of ancient

population.

Along the whole road

from

Aleppo

to

Hama, we

difcover the ruins of

fallen
in,

ancient villages, ciflerns

and the

remains of fortrefe^, nay even of temples.

I

particularly

remarked a quantity of oval

and round hillocks, which frurn the nature

of the earth, and their fleep afcent on this
(/)

The name

of

Hierapolis

ftill

fubfifls

in

that

of

another village, callen Tircislti^

plirutes.

and fituated on the Eu-.

even

EGYPT
work of man.

AND

YR

A.

165

even plain, evidently appear to have been the

The

reader

may form feme

Kan-Shaikoun,

idea of the labour they

mull have cofh from

of

the dimenfions of

that

which

found to be fcvtn hundred and twenty

fourteen

paces, or

hundred Freiich

feet

in

circumference, and near a hundred feet higli.

Thefe hillocks,

fcattered at regular intervals

of nearly a league from each other, are covered with the ruins of citadels, and, probably,

were

alfo places facred to the adoration

of fome deity, according to the well

known
*'

practice of the ancients, of worfliipping

**

on

high places."

Thefe conjedurcs

fcem

confirmed by the tradition of the inhabitants,

who
At

attribute all thefe

works

to the infidels.

prefent, inflead of that cultivation

ex|>ed:ed,

which
foil

might be

we meet with nothing

but waile and defolated lands: yet the

is

of a good quality, and the fmall quantity

it

of grain, cotton, and fefamum

produces

is

excellent. But all the frontiers of the Defer

are dellltute of fprings and running

water.

That of the wells rains, on which

principal
this

isbrackiili;

and the winter

the inhabitants place their

dependance,

fometimes

faii.

For

reafon, nothing

can be conceived more

3

melancholy

i66

TRAVELS

IN
and dufty

melancholy than
plains,

thefe parched

without trees, and without verdure ; or

more miferable than the appearance of the ftraw and earthen huts which form their
villages;

nor can any greater wretchednefs

be imagined than that of the peafants, expofed at once to the opprefilon of the Turks,

and the robberies of the Bedouin Arabs.

The

which encamp the Mawalis; they

tribes

in thefe plains are called are

the moil powerful,

and the

richeft

among

the Arabs, as they pay

fome

attention to agriculture,

and partake in

the trade of the

caravans which go

from

Aleppo, either to BafTora or Damafcus, or to

Tripoli by the

way of Hama.

CHAP.

EGYPT AND SYRIA.

167

CHAP,
Of the
J.

XXVIII.

Pachalic of Tripoli,

HE

Pachalic

of

Tripoli

comprehends
Narh-el-Kelb,
torrent,

the country which ftretches along the Mediterranean,

from Latakia

to the

and

is

bounded on the weft by that

and the chain of mountains which overlook

the Orontes.

The

principal part of this government

fea-coafl alone, between
is

is

hilly; the

Tripoli

and Latakia,

a level country.
it

The nume-

rous rivulets v/hich water

to
its fertility;

contribute greatly

but notwithftanding this adis

vantage, this plain

much

lefs

cultivated

than the mountains, without even excepting

Lebanon, with
trees.
Its

its

numerous rocks and pine-

chief productions are corn, barley,

and cotton.
bacco and

In the territory of Latakia toare principally cultivated;

olives

but in Lebanon,

and the Kefraouan, white

mulberry- trees and vineyards.

This Pachalic contains

tribes

feveral

difrerent
to

and

religions.

From Lebanon

ab^c

M4

Latakia

i63

T R A V

E L

Latakin, the mouatains are peopled by the

Anfarians of

whom

I^

have before fpoken;

are inhabited enfea-coafi;

Lebanon and the Kefraouan

tirely
cities,

by the Alaronites, and the

by Schifnratic Greeks,

and

and

Latins,

Turks, and defcendants of the Arabs.

The Pacha
vileges

of Tripoli enjoys
place.

all

the pri-

of

his

The

military

and

finances are in his hands;

he holds the goat the

vernment

in quality

of a farm from the Porte,

annual

on

leafe

of one year only,

rent of {even, hundred

and
;

fifty purfes, (thirty

nine thoufand pounds)

obliged to

befides

this,

he

is'

fupply

the
rice,

Caravan of Mecca

with corn, barley,

\iundred and

and other provifions,

the ex DC; ices of which are eflimated at fevea

fifty

purfes more.
this

He
To

is

him-

felf obliged to

condu6t

convoy into the

indemnify

Uefert, to meet the pilgrims.

liim for thefe expences he receives the Miri,

the cudoms, the farms of the Anfarians and the Kefraouan, and adds to
all thefe
-,

numeindeed

rous annual extortions and exadions

had he no more than

fits

this lail article, his pro-

would be
five

conliderable.

He
as
ill

maintains

about

hundred cavalry,

provided
as

EGPVT AND
as thofe of Aleppo, and a

SYRIA.

169

few Mograbian In.

fan try.

The Pacha
firous

of Tripoli has alv/ays been de-

of perfonally governing the country of

;

the Anfarians, and the Maronites

but thefe

people having invariably oppofed by force the

entrance of the Turks into their mountains,

he has been conflrained

to

abandon the colap-

ledlion of the tribute to under firmers,

proved of by the inhabitants.

is

Their

office
is

not, like his, held only

for a year, but

arifes

difpofed of

by auction
the

whence

com-

petition of wealthy perfons,

who

perpetually

afford

him

means of exciting or foment:

ing troubles
mini'llration

in the tributary nation

is

this

ad-

the fame

we

find in hiflory to

have been ufual with the ancient Perfians

and Ailyrians, and appears

quent
ii)

to

have been fre-

all age-, in

the eaftern v/orld.

is

The farm
kaddamin
in the
;

of

the Anfarians
three

at

this

day divided between

chiefs
is

or

Mo^

that of the Maronites

wholly

hands

of the

Emir

Youfef,

who

pays thirty purfes (fifteen hundred and fixty

pounds) for

it.

Among

tjie

remarkable
firft

places in this Pachalic

we mufl

mention
Tripoli,

I7&

TRAVELS
It is

IN
the refi-

Tripoli (m)y in Arabic Tarabolos,

dence of the Pacha.

Htuated on the

river Kadifha, at the diftance of a quarter

of

a league from
foot of

its

mouth, and

precifely at the

Mount Lebanon, which

it

overlooks and
eafi:,

furrounds

w^ith its

branches to the
little to

the fouth, and even a

It
is

the north-wefl.
a fmall trian-

feparated

from the

fea

by

gular plain, half a league in breadth, at the point of which

fels
is

the village where the vef-

land their goods.

The Franks

call this

village la
\>y
is

Marine (n), the general name given

to thefe places in the Levant.
fnriple road,

them

There
The
is

no harbour but a

which ex-

tends from the fhore to the

flioals called

Rabbit and Pigeon IJlands.

The bottom
worn

rocky, and mariners are not fond of remain-

ing here, as the cables are foon

out,

and

the veffels expofed

to

the north-wefl
all

winds, which are frequent and violent on

this coaft.

In the time of the Crufades, this

fignifylng three
cities,
it

(;)

Greek name,
by three

having

heen

built

colonies,

from Sidon, Tyre, and Aradus,

fo

who

each of them formed fetllemcnts

near each other,

that they v/ere foon united into one.

(n) Such maritime pUces were by the ancients called

road

EGYPT AND
are
flill

SYRIA.

171

road was defended by towers, feven of which

fubfiltmg,

from the mouth of the

river to the village.

They

are

flrong built,

but

row

ferve oiily as a place of refort for

birds of prey.

All the environs of Tripoli are laid out in orchards, where the nopal grows fbontane-

ouHy,

and the white mulberry

is

cultivated

and the pomegranate, the orange, and the lemon tree, for their fruit,
for the filk
-,

worm

which
places,

is

of the

greatefi:

beauty.

But thefe
to

though delightful
Every
year,

to the eye, are un-

healthy.

from July

Septem-

ber, epidemic fevers, like thofe

of Skanda-

roon and Cyprus, rage here

ing to the
artificial

thefe are

ow-

inundations with which

the mulberry trees are watered, in order that they

fides,

may throw out

as

their fecond leaves.

Be-

the city

is

open only

to the weft,
fpirits are

the air docs not circulate, and the

in
a

coDllant

ftate

of oppreffion,

which

makes health at bell bat a kind of convalefcence foj.

The

air,

though more humid,

is

(0)

Since

my

return from France,

have received ac-

counts, that, in the fpring 1785, there raged an epidemical

diforder,

which

defolated 7>ipoli

and the Kerrouan.

It

was

a violent fever, accompanied with blue fpots,

which
mac'e

jjj,

T R A V

E L

N
It
is

is

more
it

falubrious at /a Marine, doubtlefs be-

caufe

has room to circulate.

ftill

more fo in the iflands ; and were the place in the hand of an enh"ghtened government, the
inhabitants iliould be invited to live there.

Nothing more w^ould be

conduits,
as
is

necelTary to

induce

them, than to convey water

feems

to the village

by

formerly

to

have been'
alfo, that
is

done.

It

worthy of obfervation,

the fouthcrn ihore of the fmall plain

full

of

the ruins of habitations, and columns broken

and buried

in the earth,

or in the fca fands.

The
them

Franks had employed a great number of

in the building their walls, in the reftill

mains of which they are

crofsways.

to

be fecn laid

The
wholly

commierce of Tripoli confifts almofl:

in different

coarfe
It

lilks,
is

which

are

made

ufe of for laces.

obferved, that

they are every day lofing their quality.

The

reafon aiiigned for which, by well informed

made

it

rufpecxeJ to have an affinity with the plague.

is,

What
among

may

be cfteemed fingular,

that

it

was obferved

to attack

very few Mahometans, but made

the Chriftians
;

its

chief ravages
it

whence

it

may be concluded

was, in a

great meafure, occafioned by the unwholefome food and

meagre

diet they

Uve on during Lent.

perfons.

EGYPT AND
perfons,
is,

SYRIA.
now
ones
reiniiins

173

the decay of the mulberry trees, of

which
replies,

fcarcely any thing

but

feme hollow trunks.

A
new

Granger inilantly
?

why
is

not plant

But

an-

fwer, that

an European cbfervation.
;

Here
has

they never plant

or plant, the

becaufe, were they to build

fay,

Pacha would

this

man

money ^ he would fend for him, and demand fliould he deny that he has d.ny, it of him
:

he mufl
confefs,

fuffer the

bailinado
receive
it

and

fliould

he

mufl

flill

to extort

from
flill

him

the acknowledgment that he has

more.

Not

that the Tripolitans are remark-

able for their

patience

they are,

on the

contrary, conlidered as extremely mutinous.

Their

title

of

Janifaries,

and

the

green
in-

turban they wear, in quality of

fpire

S/jeri/s,

them with

the fpirit of revolt.

Ten

or

twelve years ago, the extortions of a Pacha

drove them to extremities

; they expelled him, and remained eight months independent; but

the

Porte

fent

man

v/ell

verfed

in

her

maxims, who, by dint of promifes, oaths, and pardons, gained and difperfed them, and
concluded by putting to death eight hundred in one day, whole heads are flill to be ken in
a cave near Kadiflia.

Such

is

the government

of the Turks

Thi

iyjf.

TRAVELS
of Tripoli

IN
is

The commerce
here,

in the

hands

of the French alone.

They have
fifhed

a conful

and three commercial houfes.

iilks,

They
in

export

and fpunges

up

the

road; thefe

they exchange

for

cloths, co3

chineal, fugarj and

this fadiory,

Wefl
its

India coffee

but

both with refpect to imports and

inferior to

exports,

is

fubordinate towri

Latakia.

The town

of Latakia, founded by Seleucus

Nicator, under the

name of

Laodicca,

is

fitu-

ated at the bafe, and on the fouthern iide of

a fmall

peninfula,
fea.

which projeds half a

Its
is

league into the

port, like all the

others on this coafl,

a fort of bafon, enviis

roned by a mole, the entrance of which

very narrow.
It

might contain
-,

five

and twen-

ty or thirty veffels
fered
it

but the Turks have fufas fcarcely to

fo to

be choaked up,

admit four.

Ships of above four hundred tons

;

cannot ride there

that one
is

and hardly a year

paiTes^

not flranded in the entrance. Notthis,

withflanding
great

Latakia carries on a very

commerce,

confifling chiefly of tobacco,

of which upwards of twenty cargoes are annually fent to Damietta

:

the returns from

bartered in Uppci"
Syria

thence are

rice,

vv'hich

is

CYPT AND

YRI

A.

tf$

Syria for oils and cottons.

In the time ot

Strabo, inilead of tobacco, the exports confifted in its

famous wines, the produce of the

hill fides.

Even

then,

Egypt was the market

by way of Alexandria. the moderns gained by

places of ilrength

Have
this

the ancients or
?

exchange

Nei-

ther Latakia nor Tripoli can be mentioned as

;

they have neither cana

non nor

foldiers

fmglc privateer would

make

a conqiteft of

them both.

They

arc
five

each fuppofed to contain from four to

thoufand inhabitants.

On

the

coafi:,

between thefe towns,

villages,

w^

meet with

feveral inhabited
cities
:

which

formerly were large

fuch are Djebila

Merkab, fituated on a fleep declivity, and Tartoufa

;

but

we

find

ftill

more places which

the latter, one of

have only the half-deftroyed remains of ancient habitations.

Among

the principal

is

the rock, or illand of Rouad*

formerly a powerful city and republic, knovn

by the name of Aradus,

is

Not

a fingle wall

remaining of

all

that multitude of houfes,

v/ere built

which, according

to Strabo,

with

more

(lories

than

even

thofe

of

Rome.
fubfifled

The

liberty enjoyed
it

by the inhabitants had

rendered

very populous,

and

it

bv

176

TRAVELS
prefent the illand
is

IN
arts.
;

by naVal commerce, manufa6tures, and

At

deferted

nor has traof a fpring

dition even retained

the
its

memory

of freih water

in

environs,

which the

people of Aradus difcovered at the bottom of

the
fea,

and from which they drew water, in

bell,

time of war, by means of a leaden

a leathern pipe
fitted to its

and

bottom.
is

To

the fouth of Tripoli

the country of

the Kefraouan,

which extends from Nahr-elthe moft con:

kelb, pafiing by Lebanon, as far as Tripoli,

Djebail, the ancient Byblos,
iiderable
is

town

in this
fix

territory

it

has not,
Its

however, above
ancient port,
kia,
is

thoufand inhabitants.

which refembles
worfe fituation

that of Lata;

in a
it

ftill

fcarcely any

traces of

remain.

The
is

river

Ibrahim, the
to the

ancient Adonis,

which

two leagues
to

fouth Vv'ard,

has the only bridge to be feen, that

of Tripoli excepted, from thence

It
is

Antioch.

of a fingle arch,
thirty

fifty feet
;

wide, and up-

wards of
tedture,

high

of a very light archito

and appears

have been a work of

the Arabs.

Among the mountains,

Eden and
Be^iarrai,

the places moft frevillages

quented by the Europeans, are the

of

where the millionaries have

f:GYPT AND SYRIA.

have a houfe.

177

During the winter, many of

the inhabitants leave their houfes under the

now, with fomebody to guard them, and re-

move

to the fea-coaft.

Befliarrai
it is

is

in the

road to the Cedars, to which

a journey

of feven hours, though the diilance be but

three leagues.

Thefe Cedars,
-,

fo boafled, re-

femble

many other wonders

they fupport their

reputation very indifferently on a near infpection

;

the fight of four or five large trees,

are all that remain,

which

and have nothing

-,

remarkable in their appearance

the trouble
it

is

not worth

coils the traveller to

climb the

precipices that lead to them.

On the frontiers
to the

of the Kefraouan, a league

is

northward of Nahr-el-kelb,

the

little

village of Antoura,
eflabliflied

where the

Jefuits

were
it

in a houfe,

which, though
is

has

not the fplendor of thofe in Europe,

a neat
fide

and fimple manfion.

of the
its
it

Its fituation

on the

hill,

the limpid waters

which

refrefh

vineyards and mulberry trees, the profped:

commands
it

over the valley, and the diilant

fea,

view
able

has of the

render

it

a mofl agree-

hermitage.
to
it

The

Jefuits

attempted to
fituated

annex

convent

of nuns,

at a quarter of a league's diflance in front

Vol.

II.

but

J78

TRAVELS
clofe to

IN
difpoileired

but the Greek Chrillians having

them, they built one

them, under the

name of the Vifitation. They had alfo built, two hundred paces higher, a feminary, which
they wifhed to
fill
-,

with Maronite. and Latinit

Greek

ftudents

but

has remained d^ferted.

The
at

Lazarites,

who

have fucceeded them,

maintain a fuperior curate, and a lay-brother

Antoura,

who do

the duties of the miffioa

politenefs,

with equal charity,

and decency,

CHAP,

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.
XXIX.

179

CHAP.
Of the
PachaUc of
Saide,

called Ukeimfe the

Pachcdic of Acre.

XO
that,

the fouth of the Pachalic of Tripoli,

coafl,
is

and on the fame

till

a third Pachalic,

now, has borne the name of the

its

city of Saide,

capital,

but

may hence-

forward alfume that of Acre, to v/hich place

the Pacha had of late years transferred his refidence.

The
it

extent of this government has

greatly varied at different times.

Before Shaik

Daher,

included the country of the Druzes,

as

and the whole coafl from Nahr-el-kelb,

far
as

Mount Carmel.
pov/er,

In

proportion

as

Daher obtained
territories

he infringed on the

of the Pacha, and reduced

him

to

the city of Saide, from

expelled
3

which he was
ancient limits.

at laft

but after the ruin of Daher,

its

the

government refumed
zar,

Djez-

who
for

fucceeded that chief in quality of

the Turks,

Pacha

has annexed to the

Pachalic the countries of Safad, Tabaria; and

Balbec, formerly tributary to Damafcus, and

the territory of Kaifaria, (the ancient Cefa-

rea)

i8o

TRAVELS
perceiving
erected
his

IN
This
of
the

rea) inhabited

by the Arabs of Saker.

the

Pacha,

advantage
at

works
ferred

by

Daher

Acre,

tranfis

refidence to that

city,

which

now become the capital of the province. By thefe different augmentations, the Pachahc of Acre
at prefent inchides all the

coun-

try from the Nahr-el-kelb, to the fouth of

Kaifaria,

between the Mediterranean to the

weft, and at Anti-Lebanon, and the upper part

of the courfe of the Jordan,

derives the
tent, as
it

to the eafl.
this

It

more importance from

unites

ex-

the

valuable

advantages

of iituation and
Efdrelon,
Sour,

foil.

The

plains of Acre,

Havula,

and

the

Lower
fertility.

Bekaa, are juftly boafted for their

Corn, barley, maize, cotton,

produce,
notwithflianding

and felamum,
imperfedlion

the

of the culture,
one.

twenty and twenty-five for

a

The

country of Kaifaria poiTefies

the only one in Syria.
cot cons,

forefl of oaks,

Satheir

fad furnilhes
whitenefs,
as

which,
as

from

are held in

high eflimation
neighbouring
as

thofe

of

Cyprus.

The

mountains of Sour

produce
Latakia,
a

good
in

to-

bacco
of

as

that of
is

and

part

them

made

perfume

of

cloves,

which

EGYPT
which
is

ANl:>

SYklA.
The

i^r

referved excluiively for the ufe of

the Sultan and his

women.

country of
iilks
;

the Druzes abounds in wines and

fl:iort,

in

from the

fitiiation

of the coaft, and the

number of its creeks, this PachaHc necellarily becomes the emporium of Damafcus and all
the interior parts of Syria.

The Pacha
ceives all the

enjoys

all

the privileges, and rehis office;

emoluments of

he

is

defpotic governor,

and farmer general.

He

remits to the Porte annually the fixed feven hundred and fifty purfes
as the
;

fum of

but he, as well

Pacha of Tripoli,
His cxpences
at

is

obliged to furnilli

the Djerde or provifioris for the pilgrims of

Mecca.

for this article are efti-

mated likewife

feven

hundred and
&;c.

fifty

purfes, in rice, corn, barley^

The

time

limited for his government

is

is

a year, but this

are,

frequently prolonged.
;

His revenues

the Miri

the farms of the tributaries, as the

tribes

Druzes, the Motoualis, and fome Arab

the numerous fees from fuccefiions
tions
',

^.^nd

extor-

and the produce of the cuftoms on the

exports, imports, and the conveyance of

mer-

chandize; which

article

alone amounted to
fifty all

one thoufand
pounds),

purfes

(above

thoufand
the har-

when Djezzar farmed

bours

j82

travels
is

in
This Pacha like-

bours and creeks in 1784.

wife, as

ufual with the Turkifh governors

in Afia, cultivates lands

on his own account,

with merchants and

enters into

partnerfliip

manufadlurers, and lends out

tereft to

money
is

for intotal,

hufoandmen and

traders.

The

from
at

thefe various

emoluments,

eftimated

between nine and ten millions of French

money, .(about four hundred thoufand pounds).

If

we compare with

this his tribute,

which,

with the fupply of the garavan, amounts only

to fifteen hundred purfes, or one million, eight

hundred and feventy-five thoufand

livres, (fe-

venty- eight thoufand one hundred and twenty-five pounds),

we

mufl: be afloniflicd

that
;

the Porte allows

him fuch enormous

profits

but this
van.

alfo

is

a part of the policy of the

Di;

The

tribute once

fettled never varies

only, if the

Pacha becomes
in peace

rich,

he

is

fqueeoften

zed by extraordinary demands.

left to

He

is

accumulate

-,

but when he has

is

once amailed great wealth, fome expedient

his colFers or his head.

always contrived to bring to Conflantinople

At

prcfent, the Porte

is

on good terms with

of his former

Djezzar, on account,
fervices
-,

it is iliid,

in

fadt,

he greatly contributed to
the

EGYPT AND
the ruin of Daher.

SYRIA.

183

He

deftroyed the family

of that prince^
Saker,

reflrained

the Bedouins of

luimbled the Druzes, and nearly an-

nihilated the iMotoualis.

Thefe

fuccelTes

have

caufed

him

to be continued in his

government

for ten years.

tails,

He

has lately received the three

and the

title

of J'Vazir (Vifn*), which

accompanies
ufual,

them fpj 3 but the Porte, as begins to take umbrage at his good forShe
is

tune.
rit
;

alarmed

at his enterprizing fpiis

:

and he, on his

fide,

apprehenfive of
fo that a

the duplicity of the Divan

diilrufi: prevails,

mutual

from which fome important

well

confequences

may

be expedled.

He
in

maintains a greater
better condition,

number of foldiers, and

none but thofe of his

than any other Pacha, and

takes care to enroll

own

country
their

that

is

to fay, Boihnaks and Arnauts

number

is

about nine hundred horfemen.

Added

to thefe,

he has nine thoufand Mogra-

bian infantry.

The

gates

of

his
is

frontier

towns have regular guards, w^hich

the reft of Syria.

ufual in

By
and
a

fea,

he has one

frigate,

two

galiots,

xebeck, which he has lately taken from

(/))

Every Pacha of three

tails is friled

Fyir.

the

x84

TRAVELS
By

IN
foreign enemies,

the Maltefe.

thefe precautions, apparently

intended to fecure

him from
his

he has put himfelf on

guard againft the

flratagems of the Divan.

attempt has been made to

Capidjis
;

More than one deftroy him by

but he has watched them fo nar-

rowly, that they have not been able to effedt

any thing
three of

and the

cholic,

of which two or
died, has cooled

them have fuddenly

the zeal of thofe

ticklifh

who

take upon
Befides,

them

fo

an employment.

he con-

flantly maintains fpies in pay, in the Seraiy or

palace of the Sultan

and

his

money

procures

him

numerous party ever ready

to defend his
jufl;

condudl.

By

thefe

means he has

obtain-

ed the Pachalic of Damafcus, to which he had long afpired, and which

important in
all
is,

in fad:,

the moft

Syria

He

has refigned that

Selim,
his
^

of Acre to a Mamlouk,
friend,

named

and the companion of his fortune

but
zar

this

man

is

fo devoted to

him, that Djez-

may be

confidered as in polTefiion of both

It is faid, if

the governments.
that of Aleppo
-,

he

is

foliciting

which

he procures, he will

polTefs nearly the

whole of Syria, and the Porte

poffibly may find in

him a rebel more dangerous

events

than Daher; but,as conjedures concerning fuch

EGYPT AND
events are of
little

SYRIA.

iS^

ufe,

I fhall pafs, \vithout

purfuing them any further, to give fome defcription of the

mofl remarkable places in

this Pachalic fqj.

The

firft

that prefents
is

itfelf,

as

we proceed
which
like the

along thecoaft,
the Arabs

the tov^n of Berytus,

pronounce Bairont frj,

It
is

ancient Greeks.

iituated in

a plain,

which, from the foot of Lebanon, runs out

into the fea, narrowing to a point, about
leagues

two

from the ordinary

fide

line

of the

iliore,

and on the north

road,

forms a pretty long

river

which

receives the

of Nahr-el-

Salib, called alfo Nahr-Bairout.

liable to

This

river is

fuch frequent floods in winter, as to

have occalioned the building of a confiderable

bridge: but
impafTable.
it is

in fo ruinous a ftate as to be

The bottom
From

of the road

is

rock,
it

which

chafes

the cables, and renders

very

infecure.
[q) It

hence, as

we

proceed well-

is

afTcitcd

on good authority, that Djezzar, dreadPacha, now em-

ing a

vifit

from

his old friend^ the Captain

ployed in quelhng the revolt in Egypt, has quitted his go-

vernment, and prudently

it is

fled

with

all

his ill-gotten wealth,

fuppofed, into Bofnia, his native country, at the

com-

mencement of the
(r) This
^'ord B'pi/7.
is in

year 1787.
facl the true

T.
pronunciation of the

Greek

ward

,i86

TRAVELS
point,

IN
reach, after
aii

ward towards the

we
the
as

hour's journey, the town of Bairout.

till

Thlsj
;

lately,

belonged to

Druzes

but

pjezzar thought proper^

^ake
it

we have
in
it

feen, to

from them, and place

It
ftill

a Turkiih

ganafon.

continues, however, to be

thQ

emporium of the Maronites and the

ahnod:

Druzes, where they export their cottons and

iilks,
all

of

Vv^hich are fent to Cairo*

rice,

In return, they receive

tobacco, coffee,

and

fpecie,

which

they

exchange

again

for the corn

of the Bekaa, and the Hauran^

fix

This commerce maintains near

perfons.

thoufand
is

The

diale^ft

of the inhabitants

jultly .cenfured as the

moil corrupt of any in

in

the countrv;
faults
rians.

it

unites

itfdf the twelve

enumerated by the Arabian grammaport of Bairout,. formed like

The
others

all

the
like

on the

coaO:,

by a
fj.nds

pier,

is,

them, choaked up with

and

ruins.

The

town

is

furroundcd by a wall,

the foft and

pierced by a

fandy flone of which

may be
to

cannon

bail,

without breaking or crumblingj

the Ruffians in

which was unfavourable

their attack j

but in other rcfbedis this wall,

\are defcncelefs.

audits old towers,

Two

in-

conveniences

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.
for
it

2^7

conveniences will prevent Bairout from ever

becoming a place of flrength;

is

com-

manded
and
is

by a chain of hills to the fouth-eafl,

intirely deilitute

of

v^ater,

which the
at the

women

are obliged to fetch

from a well

diftance of half a quarter of a league,

though
Djez-

what they
tain,

find there

is

but indifferent.

zar has undertaken to conflrucl a public founas

I

he has done

at

Acrcj but the canal

ufelefs.

which

faw dug, will foon become

By

digging, in order to form refervoirs, fub-

terraneous

which
built

it

from appears, that the modern town is

ruins have been difcovered,

on the ancient one.

The fame may

be

obferved of Latakia, Antioch, Tripoli, Saide,

and the greater part of the towns on the coafl, which has been occafioned by earthquakes, that have deftroyed them at different
periods.

We

find likewiie, without the walls,

to the wefl',
lliafts

heaps of

rubbifh,

and fome

of columns, which indicate that Bai-

rout has been formerly

prefent.

much
it is

larger than at
entirely plant-

The plain around

ed with white mulberry

like

trees,

which,

un-

thofe

of Tripoli, are young and fiouin

rifliingi

becaufe,
is

the

tcrritoiies

of the

Druzes, there

no danger

in

renewing them.

The

iSS

TRAVELS
filk,

IN"
is

The

therefore,

produced here,

of the
the

very fineli quality.

As we defcend from
from
their

mountains, no profped: can be more delightful than to behold,

clivities,

fummits or de-

the rich carpet of verdure, formed

thefe ufeful trees in the diflanC

by the tops of
bottom of the
In fummer,
Bairout,

valley.
it is

inconvenient to reiide at

on account of the heat,

and the
have been
lince
fir

warmth of
fo

the water; the town, however, is

it

not unhealthy, though

formerly.
It

is

faid to

has

ceafed to be fo
a

Emir Fakr-el-dln planted trees, which are ftill landing, a

the

wood of

league to the

fouthward

of the

town.

The monks of

Mahr-Hanna, who are not fyllematical philofophers, have made the fame obfervation refpediing
feveral convents;

they even

affert,

that fmce the heights have been covered with

pines, the v/aters of ieveral fprings have be-

come more abundant, and more

which
agrees with other

falubrious;

known

fadls (s).

The
{%"

Dr. Franklin, to
in every

vvhoiTi

mankind

are indebted for fb

fa-

much,

branch of knowledge, has given very

tisfactor} reafon.s for this falutary effe^il of trees, particularly pines

J

the fubjc^fl has

been well treated too by feveral

EncrlilT*

EGYPT AND
The
terefling places.

SYRIA.
remarkable

189

country of the Druzes affords few in-

The mofl

is

Dair-el-Kamar, or the Houfe of the Moon, which is the capital and refidence of the
Emirs.
ill

It

is

net a
very

city,

but

a large
It
is

town
of

built,

and

dirty.

fituated

on the back of a mountain,

at the foot

which flows
ancient
river

one

of the branches

of the

Tamras,
It is

at prefent the rivulet

of Damour.
tholics to the

inhabited by Greek Ca-

and Schifmatics, Maronites and Druzes,

number of

fifteen or eighteen

hundred.
is

The
I

Serai, or palace of the prince,

only a

large wretched houfe falling to ruin.

mull

alfo

mention Zahla, a village

at the

foot of the mountains in the valley of Be/:i:a.

During the lafl twenty years this place is become

the centre of correfpondence between Balbec,

Damafcus, Bairout, and the

Mountains.
It is

interior

of the

even faid that counterfeit

artifts,

money

is

made

hercj but the clumly

though they can imitate the Turkifh

manfliip of the
Englilli

piaflers,

have not been able to approach the work-

German

Dollars.

and French philofophers; among others, by the

de
ChaftelluXj in
his Trairls in

Marquis
under the

North Arnsrica

article Virginia.

1\
I ne&'levfted

Igo
I

TRAVELS
negle(led
is

IN

to obierve that the country of

the Druzes
diflrids,

divided into Katas^ fedions, or

which have each of them a diftind charadler. The Matra^ which is to the north,
the moil ftony, and abounds moil in iron.
affords the
mofl: beautiful

is

The Garb The S,ahd,

the
fea,

pines.

or

fat Country, which

lies

next

produces mulberry-trees and vine-

yards.
is
fi

The

Shoiif,

which Dair-el-Kamar

tuated, contains the greatefl

number of

Okkals, and produces the

fineil filks.

The
to the

Tejah, or diflrid pf Apples,

which

is

fouth, abounds in that fpecies of fruit.

The

^hakif %xo\N^ the befl tobacco, and the name

of Djoiird
is

given to

all

the higher country

to
this

and the coldefl of the mountains:

diflrid in

fummer

the fliepherds retire with

their iiocks.
I

have already

faid

that the

Druzes

hard

received

among them

the Greek Chriftians

and Maronites, and granted them lands to The Greek Catholics, build convents on.
availing themfelves of this
permiilion, have
lafl

founded twelve within the

feventy years.

The

principal of thefe
is

is

Mar-Hanna.

This

monaflery

fituated oppofite the village of

Shouair, on a fteep declivity, at the bottom of

ivhich

EGYPT AND
which
el-kelb.

SYRIA.

^g,

a torrent runs in winter into the-Nahrrf

The
of a

convent built amid rocks and

blocks of flone
confifts
little

from magnificent, and dormitory with two rows of

is

far

cells,

above v/hich
it

is

a terrace fubfhanforty

tially

vaulted^

maintains

monks.

Its chief

merit confiils in an Arabic Prin tin o-

Prefs, the only one

which has fucqeedcd

in

the Turkifli empire.

bliflied

about

fifty

This has been eRayears, and the reader will

perhaps not be offended if I fay fomething of

its

hiflory.

At
which

the

commencement of
profiting
protesflion

the

prefent
refpecSt

century, the Jefuits,

by the

the

of

France procured

them, manifefled, in their houfc at Aleppo,

that zeal for the improverrient of knowledge

which they have every where

had founded a fchool in that

flie

wn.

They

city,

intended

to educate the children of Chriflians in the

doiSrines of the Catholic religion,

and enable
is

them

to

confute heretics, which

objed:

alwavs
;

a principal

with

the

mifiionaries

whence refults a rage for controverf), which caufes perpetual differences among
the
eafl.

partifans

of the various

feels

in

the

The

Latins of Aleppo,

excited

by
the

^9^

TRAVELS
difputations

IN

the Jefults, prefently recommenced as heretofore, their

with the Greeks;

but as logic requires a methodical acquaintance

with language,

and

the

Chriftians,

excluded

from

the the

Mahometan-fchools,
vulgar Arabic, they

knew nothing but

troverfy in

were unable to indulge their paffion for conwriting.

To

remedy

this,

the

Latins determined to ftudy the Arabic lan-

guage

grammatically.
at

The
firft

pride of
refufed
to

the
lay

Mahometan Dodors

open their learning to the Infidels, but, their

avarice overpowered their fcruples
;

and, for a

few

purfes,

this

fo

much

boafted fcience of

grammar,

and

the

Nahou, was introduced

among

the

Chriilians.

The
by

fludent
his

who
own

diflinguiilied

himfelf mofl

progrefs

was named Abd-allah-Zaker, v/ho

defire

to his

of learning,

added an ardent zeal to

promulgate his knowledge and his opinions.

It
is

impolTible to determine to
fpirit

what length

this

of making profelytes might have

at

been carried,

Aleppo, had not an accident,

its

not unufual in Turkey, difturbed

progrefs.

The

Schifmatics, vexed at the attacks of Abd-

allah,

endeavoured

to

procure his

ruin at

Conllantinople.

The

Patriarch, excited

by
the

EGYPT AND
tlie priefls,

SYRIA.
accuflomed

193

reprefcnted

him

to the Vifir as a to to

dangerous man;

the Vilir,

thefe dilputes, feigned to pay

his complaint
reafons
j

no attention

but the patriarch, backing his

with a few purfes, the Vifif delivered

\!aQ

him

a Kat-fierij\ or warrant of
to

Sultan,

which, according

cuftom, contained

an

order to cut off Abd-allah's head.

Fortu-

nately he received timely warning, and efcaped into Lebanon,

where

his

life

was

in fafety:

but in quitting his country, he by no means

abandoned his

ideas of reformation,

and was

more

refolutely bent than ever

on propagat-

ing his opinions.

effe(5t

This he was only able to

by writings 3 and manufcripts feemed

inadequate method.

to

him an
to

He

was no

Granger

the advantages of the prefs, and

to

had the courage

ject of writing,

form the three-fold pro-

founding types, and printing;

he fucceeded

in this enterprize

from the naand the

of engraving,

tural goodnefs of his underflanding,

knowledge he had of the

art

which he had
affoclate,

already pra6tifcd in his profef-

fion as a jeweller.

He

flood in need of an
to find

and wa^ lucky enough

one

who entered into his defigns. His brother, who was Superior at Mar-Hanna, prevailed on Vol, II. O him

ig4

T RA V
to

E L

N
care,

him

make

that convent his relidence, and

from that time, abandoning every other

he gave himfelf up
of his projed-.

entirely to the execution

His zeal and induftiy had

fuch fuccefs, that in the year 1733, he publiihed the Pfalm.s of David in one volume.

His characters

v^ere

found fo

corred:

and

beautiful, that even his enemies purchafed his

book ; and

fince that period there

it;

have been ten

imprefiions of

new

chara(5lers

have been

founded, but nothing has been executed fuperior to his.

They

perfedlly imitate

hand-

writing; they exprefs the full and the fine

letters,

and have not the meagre and

ftrag-

gling appearance of the Arabic charadlers of

Europe.

He

paiTed

twenty years

in

this

manner, printing
general,

different

works, which, in

were tranilations of our books of

devotion.

Not

that he

was acquainted with

feveral

any of the European languages, but the Jefults

had

already

tranflated

books,

and as their Arabic was extremely bad, he correcfted their tranilations,

and often fubftituted

is

his

own

verfion,

which

model of purity
and harmonithought

and eleoance.
remarkable for a
ous
ftile,

The
clear,

Arabic he wrote was

precife,

of v/hich that language had been

EGYPT AND
fhould
ple,
it it

SYRIA.

(95

thought incapable, and which proves that,

ever be cultivated by a learned peo-

will

become one of the moll copious

in the world.

and expreffive

After the death

of Abd-allah, which happened about 1755* he was fucceeded by his pupil ; and his fucceiTors

were

the

religious

of

the

houfe;

they have continued to found letters

print,
cline,

and to

but the bufmefs

is

at prefent

on the de-

and feems

likely

to

be foon entirely

laid alide.

The books have

which
is

but

little

fale,

except

the Pfalter,

the cl

tffic

of

the ChriHian children, and for which there

is

continual demand.

The

expenses are

conliderable, as
rope,
art

the paper comes from

is

Eulittle

and the labour

very flow.

would remedy the

is

firfl

inconvenience, but

the latter

radical.

The

Arabic charaders

requiring to be connedled together, to join

them

well and place

them

in a right

line

requires an

immenle and minute

attention.

Eefides

this,

the combination of the letters

varying according as tliey occur, at the beginning, in the middle, or at the end of a

word,

it is

neceffary to found a great

letters;

number
cafes

of double

by which means the

being too multiplied, are not colle-iled under

the

196:

TRAVELS
and feek for
divifions:

IK
is

tthe

hand of a compofitor; but he

obliged

to run the v/hole length of a table eighteen

feet long,

his letters in near nine

lofs

hundred

hence a

of time
PrefTes

which
attain

will

never

allow Arabic of ours.

to

the perfection

As

for the

inconfiderable fale of the books, this

mufl be

attributed to the bad choice they have

made

of them.
of real

Infleadof giving verfions of works

calculated to

utility,

awaken a
all

taile for

the arts indifcriminately

among

the Arabs,

they have only tranfiated myftic books peculiar to

the Chriflians, which, by their mifare

anthropic morality,

formed

to excite a
life itfdf.

difgufl for all fcience,

and even for

Of this

the reader will judge from the follow-

ing Catalogue:

Catalogue
vent

of the Books printed at the Con^

in.

of

Mar-hanna-el-Shouair,
of the Druzes,

the mountains

^'

balance of Time, or

the

Dif-

ference between

Time and

Eternity, by Fa-

ther Nieremberg, Jefuit.

I,

Mizan-el-Zaman,
2.

The

EGYPT AND
2.

SYRIA.

197

The

Vanity of the World, by Didaco

Stella, Jefuit.
3.

The

Sinner's Guide,

by Louis de Gre-

nade, Jefuit.
4.
5.
6.

7.
8. 9.

The Priefr's Guide. The Chriilian's Guide. The Food of the Soul. The Contemplation of Paffion Week.
ChriHian Dod:rine.
Expolition

of the

Seven

Penitential

Pfilras.

10.

The Pfalms The The

of David,

tra?ijlaied from

the Greek,
1 1

Prophecies.

12.

Gofpel and Epillles.

Hourly prayers fLes Ileures ChrctU ennes) ; to which is added, the Chriftian
13.
Ferfcvftion

of P^odriguez, and the Rules of

;

the
1.

Monks

both prifited at Rome.

3.

Abatil-cl-Aalam.
5.

Morfaed-el-Kati.
6.

4.

Mor{hed-el-Kahen.
Nafs.
7.

Morfhed-eUMafihi.
8.

JCoutel

Taammol-el-Afboua.
10. El

Taalim-el-Mahhi.
1 1.

9. Taffir-cl-Sabat.
J 2, El-Endjil

Mazamir.

El Onbouat,

wa

el

Rafayel.

13. El-Soueyat.

O^

In

198

TRAVELS

IN

In Manufcrlpts this Convent pofTelTes;

1

2.

The Imitation of Jefus Chrill. The Garden of the Monks, or

Defert.

life

of

the

Holy Fathers of the

3.

Moral Theology of Buzembaum.

4.
5.
folio,

The Sermons
Theology of

of Segneri.
St.

Thomas, in 4 vol. the copying of which coft one thoufifty llvres ^^52/.^,

fand two hundred and

6.

Sermons of

St.

John Chryfoftom.
by Claude Vir-

y. Principle5
tieu.

of Laws,

8.

* Theological difputes of the

Monk
by a

George.
9. Logic, tranllated

from the

Italian,

Maronite.
10. *

The Light

of Hearts, by Paul of

Smyrna, a converted Jew.

II.*

Queflions and Enquiries concerning

and/y^^^

Grammar,
Maronite.

Nahoii, by Bilhop Germain,

I. Tak.iid-el--M7j;7;'.

2.

Beftan

el

Rohoban.

3.

Elm

flNiarBouzembaoum. 4. Maouaez Sainari. 5. Lahout Mar Toume. 6. Mawacz Fomni el Dahab. 7. Kawaed el Naouamls I'Kloud Firtiou. 8. Madjadalet cl Anba
Djordji.
g.

El Mantek.
el

10.

Nour

cl.

Aebab.

fi. El

Mataleb wa

Mebahes,

12. *

Poems

EGYPT AND
12. *
jedls.

SYRIA.

199

Poems of the fame, on pious fubPoems

of
the

13. *

Curate

Nicholas,

brother of Abdallah Zaker.

14.

* Abridgment of the Arabic Didio-

nary, called the Ocean,

N.
tians-y

B. All
thofe

theft'

are the produSiions ofChrifivith

marked

a Jlar *

njoere origi-

nally ^written in

Arabic: the following are

Ma-

bometan works,
1.

2.

The Koran. The Ocean

of

the

Arabic

Tongue,

tranflated
3.

by Gollus.
Diflichs

The Thoufand

of Ebn-el-

Malek on Grammar.
4. Explication
5.

of the Thoufand Diflichs,

Grammar

of Adjeroumia.

6. Rhetoric of Taftazani.

7. Seffions, or Pleafant Stories of Hariri.

8.

Poems of Omar-ebn-el-Fardi, of the

amorous kind.
12.

Diwan Djermanos.

13.

Diwan Ankoula.
2.

14.

Mokatafarel Kamous.
abadi.
bait.
3.

i.

Koran.

El Kamousl'Firowz4. Tafsir cl-alf-

El Alf bait FEbn-el-malek.

El- Adjiroumia.
el

5.

6.

7.

Makamat

Hariri.

8.

Elm el Bayan I'l aftazani. Diwan omar Ebn el fardi.

9. Science!

O4

200

TRAVELS
of

IN

9. Science of the

Arabic Tongue; a fmall

book
cats,

in the nature of the Sy-nonymes Fran-*

Abbe

Girard.

10. Medicine of Ebn-Sina, (Avicenna).

1 1
.

Simples and

Drugs, tranflated frora

Diofcorides, by Ebn-el-Bitar.
12. Difpute of the Phyficians.
13. Theological
ferent Sed:s of the

Fragments on the

dif-.

World.
(of
little

14.

little

Book of Tales

value)

from which

have an extract.

15. Hiflory of the Jews,

by Jofephus, a
on the prin-

very incorredl tranflation.

A
ciples

fmall book of Aflronomy,

of Ptolemy,

and fome others of no

value.

This

is

all

the library of the convent of

Mar- Han na, from which we may form an

idea of the literature of Syria, iince, except-,

ing one polTelTed by Djezzar, there does not

exift

another.
is

Among

the original books,

in
facfl,

.there

not one,
el

which,
10.
el
el

merits a
ir.
e!

9.

Fakan

Logat.

El tob I'Ebn

fina.

El

Mofradat.
kallamin.

12.
14.

Daouat

Otobba.
wahid.

13. Abarat

Mota-

Nadim

15.

Tarik

ei

Yhoud,

I'Youfefous.

tranilation.

EGYPT AND
tranllation.

SYRIA,
flyle,

aoi.

Even the

Sejjions

of Hariri, are
and, in the

only interefting from their

whole

order, there

is

but one

derflands them, nor are

monk who unthe others found much

this houfe,

more

intelligible

by

his brethren in general.

In the adminiftration of

and the
it,

manners of the
find

religious

who

inhabit

we
our

fome

fingularities

which

deferve

notice.

Their order

is

that of Saint Bafil,

who
is

is

to the Orientals

what

Saint Benedict

to the

weftern Chriftians,

except that they

have

adopted a few alterations in confequence of

their

peculiar

fituation,

and the court cf

Rome

has given her fandiion to the code they

thirty years ago.
at the

drew up

They may proit

nounce the vows

age of fixteen, for

all

has ever been the aim of

lators to captivate the
lytes at
plicitly

monaftic legiftheir profe-

minds of

an early age, that they

may more imThefe

and

comply v/ith

their inftitutions.
elfe,

vov/s are, as every where

vows of po-

verty, obedience, devotion to the order,

chaftity

and

it

mufl: be allowed, that they

are

more
in

ftriclly

cbferved

in

this

country

than

Europe.

The

condition

of the

oriental

Monks

is

infinitely

more hard than

that

502

TRAVELSIN
We may judge of this

that of the European.

from the following defcription of their doEvery day they have feven hours meftic life.
prayers at church, from

which no perfon

is

exempted.

They

rife at

four in the mornings

go

to

bed at nine in the evening, and make

five.

only two meals, viz. at nine and

live

They
cri-

perpetually on meagre diet, and hardly

flefii

allow themfelves
tical diforders.

meat

in the

moil

Like the other Greeks, they

have three Lents a year, and a multitude of

fails,

during which they neither eat eggs, nor

milk, nor butter, nor even cheefe.

Almoil
and a
coarfe

the whole year they live on lentils and beans

with

oil,

rice

and butter, curds,

Their bread
is

olives,
little

little fait

fifli.

loaf,

badly leavened, which ferves two days,

is

and

freih

made only once

a week.
lefs

With

this food,

they pretend to be
;

fubjedl to
it

maladies than the peafants

but

muil be
their

remarked, that they have

arms,

all

ilTues in

and many of them are attacked by

I

Hernias, owing, as

imagine, to their im-

moderate ufe of
a narrow
fiils

oil.

The
his

lodging of each

is

cell,

and

whole furniture con;

in a

mat, a matrafs, and a blanket

for of thele they

but

no

ilieets,

have no need, as
they

EGYPT AND
ing
is

SYRIA.

zo^

they lleep with their cloaths on.

Their cloath-

a coarfe cotton fhirt flriped with blue, a waiflcoat,

a pair of drawers,

and a furand thick,

fold.

pHce of coarfe brown

that
it

cloth, fo ftiff

will fland upright

without a

Contrary to the cuilom of the country, they

wear

their hair eight inches

long, and, in-

ftead of a hood, a cylinder of felt, ten inches

high,

like

thofe

of the

Turkifli cavalry.

Every one of them,

perior, Purveyor,

in fliort,

except the Suexercifes

and Vicar,

fome

trade,

either neced'ary or ufeful to the houfe

one
a

is

a weaver,

and weaves

ftufi's

another

tailor,

and makes cloaths j

their fhoes
;

this is a llioe-

maker, and makes and fuperintends

that a mafon^

their buildings.

Two

of

them have the management of the kitchen, four work at the printing-prefs, four are employed in book-binding, and
all

aaifl at the

bake-houfe on

the day

of making bread.
or five

The
lifls,

expence of maintaining forty,

and forty perfons, of which the convent condoes not

exceed
fix

the

annual
ai:td

fum of
twep.ty-

twelve purfes, or
five

hundred
tliis

pounds

-,

and from

muft be deall

dudted the expences of their hofpitality to

pafTengers,

which of

itfcif

fcrms a confiderable

f.04

TRAVELS
It is true,

IN
of thefe pafTen-

able article.

mofl:

gers leave prefents or

alms,

which make a
;

part of the revenue of the houfe part arifes

the other

from the culture of the lands.

a confiderable extent of ground,

They farm
for
:

which they pay four hundred piaftres to two Emirs thefe lands were cleared out by
the
firiL

Monks

themfelves

but at prefent they

commit the culture of them to peafants, w^ho pay them one half of all the produce. This
produce
confifts

of white and yellow

iilks,

which

are fold at Bairout^

feme corn and

wines fpjy which:, for want of demand, are

fent
(p) Thefe wines are of three

forts,

the red, the white,

and the yellow.

The

white, which are the moft rare, are fo

:

bitter as to be difagreeable

the

two

others,
arifes

on the confrom their

t'ary, are

too fweet and fugary.

This

being boiled, which makes them refemble the baked wines

of Provence.

The

general cultom of the country

its

is,

to

reduce the muft to two thirds of

proper for a

quantity.
it

It is

im-

common

drink at meals, becaufe

ferments in
boil

the ftomach.

In fome places, however, they do not

the red, which then acquires a quality almofl: equal to that

of Bordeaux.

The
given

yellow wine

is

much efleemed

amonr>-

our merchants, under the name of Golden JP'me (Fin d'cr),

which
ed
is

has. been

it

from

its

colour.

The

molT: efleem-

produced from the

hill fides

of the

Zouk,

or village
it,

of Maibeh near Antoura.

It

is

not ncctilary to heat

but

EGYPT AND
fumed
in the houfe.

SYRIA.

16^

fent as prefents to their benefacflors, or

con-

Formerly, the religious

as
is

abftained

from drinking wine; but,

all

cuf-

tomary in
relaxed

focieties,

they have gradually

;

from

their primitive auflerity

they

have

alfo

begun

to allow the ufe of tobacco

and

coffee,

notwithHanding the remonftrances

of the older Monks,

too

who

are ever jealous of

much indulging the habits of youth. The fame regulations are obferved in
as
I

all

the houfes of the order, which,

already faid,

have

amount

to twelve.
is

The whole

number of
but
it is

thefe religious

eflimated at one

too fugary.

Such are the wines of Lebanon,

(o

boafted by the Grecian and

peans

may

try

them, and
:

Roman epicures. The Eurofee how far they agree with the
fliould obfervc,

ancients in opinion

but they

that the paf-

fage by fea ferments boiled wines a fecond time, and burils

the caHcs.
It is probable,

that the inhabitants of

Lebanon

have made no chan2;e

in their ancient

method of makin^

wines, nor in the culture of their vines.

fed on poles of fix or eight feet high.
as in France,

They are difpoThey are not pruned

vintage begins

which certainly muft greatly injure both the

quantity

and quality of the crop.

The

about the end of September.

The
fifty

convent of Mar-lianna

makes about one hundred and

price current in the country,

Rabia^ or earthen jar?,

Tlie
fois,

containing about one hundred and ten pints each.

is

about feven or eight

(four pence) the French pint,

hundred

&Q&

TRAVELS
fifty
-,

IM

hundred and
five

to

which mufl be added>

convents of Vv'omen

which depend on

them.

The

firft

fupericrs

who founded them,

it

thought they had performed a good work^

but at prefent the order repent

has been

done, becaufe nuns in a Turkiili country are

very dangerous, as they are conned:ed with

the w^eahhieft merchants of Aleppo,

cus,

Damaf-

and Cairo,

who

for a

ftipulated

fum
them

get rid of their daughters by placing

in thefe convents.

The merchants

likewife
Several

beftow on them coniiderable alms.

of them give
even as high

an,

hundred

pifloles yearly,

and

as

one hundred Louis

d'or, or

three thoufand livres (one hundred and twenty-five pounds),

intereft

without requiring any other

than their prayers to God, that he

preferve

would

them from the rapacity of the

as

Pachas.

But,

they imprudently attrad:

their

their notice,
dicfs

by the extreme luxury of

neither
their

and furniture,
the

prefents,

ncr

prayers of the religious,

can fave
fince,

thcni from extortion.

Not long

one

of thjfe merchants ventured to build a houle

at

D.imafcus, which coft

him upwards of one

livres,

hundred and twenty thoufand

thoufand pounds).

(five
it,

The Pacha

obferved

and

EGYPT AND
and
prefentiy gave the

SYklA,
new

'ti.of

owner

to underfland,

he had

a curiofity to fee his a vifit,

houfe, and
difli

would pay him

fee

and take a

of cof-

with

him.

As the Pucha,
fo delighted
it

therefore,
it,

might have been

to have quitted

with

as

not

again,

it

became

necelTary
a pre-

to avoid his polltenefs,

by making him

fent of thirty thoufand livres, (feven thoufand

five

hundred pounds).

Next
able

Mar-Hanna, the mofl remarkconvent is that of Dan^ MokaUes, or

to
It is lituated three

St. Saviour.

hours jour-

The religious had colledred there a confiderable number of printed Arabic books, and manuney to the north-eaft of Saide.
fcripts
:

but Djezzar, having carried the war

into thefe diftri6ls about eight ye:?rs ago, his

foldicrs pillaged the houfe,

and took away

all

the books.

As we
cient

return to the fea-coft,

we muil

firfl:

remark Saide, the degenerate offspring of anSidon (a).

This town, formerly the

is,

refidence of the Pacha,

like all the Turkirti

full

towns,

ill

built,

dirty,

and

of modern

{q)

The name

of Sidon

ftill

fubfif^s In a fniall

village

half a league from S'lide.

ruins.

^0^
ruins.
fix Its

^-H A V E L

I !^

length along the fea

its

iliore is

about

hundred paces, and

fifty.
is

breadth one -hunfide,

dred and

On

the fouth

on a

fniall

eruinence,

a fort built

by Degnizla.
fea^

From
eafily

hence we have a view of the

the country
deflroy this
;

the city, and

but a few cannon would

is

whole Work, which

ftory, already

only a large

tower of a lingle

half in ruins*
is^

At

the other extremity of the town, that

is

to the north weft,

built in the fea

the caftle,

which

is

itfelf,

eighty paces from the

main

land, to
vv^eft

which
of this

it is

joined by arches*
is

To
feet

the

caftle

a fhoal fifteen

high above the

fea,

and about two hunfpace

dred paces long.

flioal

The

between

this

and the

caftle

forms the road, but

vefTels

^re not fafe there in

bad weather.

The fhoal,

which

extends along the town, has a bafon

enclofed

by

a decayed pier.
it is

This was the

ancient port 3 but

fo

choaked up by fands,
its

that boats only can enter

caftle.

mouth, near the

the

Fakr-el-din,
all

Emir of

DruzeSj

deftroyed
to Acre,

thef^ little ports,

from Bairout
to prevent

by finking boats and ftones

the Turkifh fhips from entering them.

The

bafon of Saide,

if it

wxre cleared out, might

contain twenty or twentj^-iive fmall veftels.

On

EGYPT AND
On
it

SYRIA.
town
is

209

the fide of the fea, the

abfolutely

without any wall; and that which enclofes

on the land

fide is

no better than a prifon

does not exceed

wall.
fix

The whole

artillery

cannon, and thefe are without carriages

or gunners.
to one

The

garrifon fcarcely

amounts

hundred men.
from v/hich

The

water they have

comes from the

canals,

river Aoula,
it is

through open

fetched by the
alfo to

wo-

men.
Saide
is

Thefe canals ferve

water the

orchards of mulberry and lemon

is

trees.

a conliderable trading town, and

the chief

emporium of Damafcus, and the

interior country.

The

French,

who

are the

only Europeans to be found there, have a

conful, and five

or fix commercial houfes.

Their exports
larly

conlift in filks,

and particu-

in raw and fpun cottons.

is

The manu-

facture of this cotton

the principal art of

the inhabitants, the

number of whom may be

eflimated at about five thoufand.

Six leagues to the fouth of Saide, following

the coaft,

we

arrive

by a very
In this

level plain at

the village of Sour.

difficulty, recognize that

name we, with of T'yre, which v/e

if

receive

from the Latins ; but

L

we

recoiled:
ou-,

that the

y was formerly pronounced

,

and

Vo

II.

obferve.

tio

T RA V
the
5

E L

N
5

obferve, that the Latins have fubftltuted the

t for

of the Greeks, and that the

had

ihe found of the

think,
tion.

Enghfh

th,

in

the

word

we

Ihall

be

lefs furprifed at

the altera-

This has not happened among the

orientals,

who

have always called this place

Tfour and Sour.

The name
and fuggefts
I

of Tyre recalls to the

memory

of the hiflorical reader fo

fo

many

great events,

many

refiedions, that I think

may

be allowed to enter with fome minute-

nefs into the defcription of a place,

in ancient times,

the theatre

which was, of an immenfe

of
arts

commerce and
and
fciences,

navigatiorr; the nurfe

and the

city of, perhaps,

the

mofi: induftrious

and adive people the world

has yet feen.

Sour
jedls

is

fituated

on a peninfula, which prothe fea, in the form

from the

fliore into

of a mallet with an oval head. This head is a folid rock, covered with a brown cultivable
earth,

which forms a

fmall plain of about

eight hundred

paces long, by four hundred

broad.

The

iflhmus,
is

which

joins this plain

to the continent,

of pure fea fand.

This

difference of foil renders

ftate

the ancient infular

it

of the plain, before Alexander joined

EGYPT AND
to the fhore
is

SYRIA,

:2ii

plain

by a mole, very manifeft, fince it that the fea, by covering this mole with
it

fand> has enlarged

by

fucceffive accumulati-

ons, and formed the prefent ifthmus. lage of Sour

is

The vilthis
it

fituated at the

jundion of

ifthmus with the ancient

illand,

of which

does not cover above one third.

The
but
is

point to

the north

is

occupied by a bafon, which was a

art,

port evidently formed by

fent fo

at preft

choaked up that

children pafs

without being wet above the middle.

opening at
the point
is

The
which
tow-

defended

by two

towers, oppofite each other, between

formerly
long, to
ers

palled a chain
fliut

fifty

or fixty feet
thefe

the harbour.

From

began a

line

of walls, which, after fur-

rounding the bafon, enclofed the whole ifland;

but at prefent

we

can only follow their traces

fhore,

by the foundations which run along the

Motoualis

except in the vicinity of the port, where the

made fome

repairs

twenty years

ago, but thefe are again fallen to decay.

Further on in the

fea,

to the

north-wefl

of the point,

at

the diflance of about three

is

hundred paces,

a ridge of rocks w^hich rife

to the furface of the water.

feparates

The

fpace

which
forms

them from the main land

in front,

1Ll^

T R A V
fort

E L

N
may
an

forms a

of road, where veflels

at

chor with more fafety than

are not, however, free

Saide;

they

from danger,

for they

are expofed to the north-wefl winds,

and the

bottom
ifland
fea,

injures the cables.

lies

That

part of the

which
is

between the village and the

is

that

the weflern fide,

open: and
laid out

this

ground the inhabitants have

but fuch
far
is

in

gardens;
contain

their lloth, that

they

more
is

vveeds than ufeful plants.

The
fifty

fouth fide

fandy, and

more covered
contains only
live

with rubbifh.

The whole village

or fixty poor families,

which

but in-

differently

on the produce of their little grounds,

and a
are

trifling fifliery.

The

houfes they occupy

no longer,

as in the

time of Strabo, edifices

high, but wretched

of three or four

flories

huts, ready to crumble to pieces.

Formerly

they were defencelefs towards the land, but

the Motoualis,
vv

ho poiTelfed themfelves of this

it

place in 1766, enclofed

feet high,

with a wall of twenty

which

ftill is

fubfills.

The mofl

re-

markable building
corner.

a ruin at the fouth-eaft

built,

This was a Chriflian church,

part

probably, by the Crufaders; a

choir only
is

of the

remaining

clofe to

which, amid

heaps

cf flones,

lie tv/o

beautiful columns,

with

EGYPT AND
with
in Syria,

SYRIA.
kind

213
.

fhafts of red granite, of a

unknown
all this

Djezzar, v/ho has ftripped

his

country to ornament

mofque

at

Acre*
engi-

wifhed to

carry

them away, but

on the
lide

his

neers were not able even to mo\'e them.

Leaving the

villajje,

of the ifth-

..

mus,

at a

hundred paces from the gate, we

come

to a ruined tower, in

which

is

a well*

where the women go

is fifteen

to fetch water.
j

This well

or fixteen feet deep

is

but the depth

of the water
feet.

not more than two or three

is

Better water

not to be found upon

caufe,
it

the coafl.

From f^me unknown

in September,

becomes troubled

and conti-

nues fome days full of a reddiili clay.

feafon
is

This

obferved as a kind of feftival by the

inhabitants,
well,

who

then come in crowds to the

it

and pour into

to

a bucket of fea water,

which, according

them, has the virtue of

reftoring the clea*nefs of the fpring.

As we
con-

p^roceed along the ifthmus, towards the

tinent,
v/e perceive, at

equal diflances, the

lead in a right line to
in the plain.

ruins of arcades,

which

an eminence, the only one

hill
is

This

not fadlitious, like thofc of the defert

but a natural rock of about one hundred and

fifty

feet

in circum.ference,

by fovtv or
'

fifty

P3

lugh:

214

TRAVELS
:

IN
but a

high

nothing

is

to be difcovered there

houfe in ruins, and the tomb of a Shaik or

Santon (r)y remarkable for the white

at the top.

dome
from

The

diftance of this rock

Sour

is

about a quarter of an hour's walk.

it,

As we approach
tioned
fo high

the arcades I have

menline,

become more numerous, and

J

are not

they terminate by a continued

and, at the foot of the rock, form fuddenly a

right angle to the fouth, and proceed
liquely toward the fea:

ob-

we may

follow their
at a horfe's

dired:ion for above an hour's

walk

pace,

till,

at length,

we diflinclly

perceive,
is

by

the channel on the arches, that this

other than an aquedudt,
three feet wide, by
is

no
is

This channel
a half

two and

deep

-,

and

formed of a cement harder than the ftones

themfelves.

At
is

lafb

we

arrive at

the well

where

it

terminates, or rather from

which

it

begins.

This

what fome

travellers

have

called the well of Solomon, but,

among the inhabitants of the country, it is known only by the name of Kas-el-aen, or. Head of
[r)

Among

the

Mahometans,

the

word

Bhaikht^xs, the

various fignifications of fanton^ hennit^ ideot and madman.

They

have the fame religious

refpecSl for

perfons difordcred

in their intcllecls

which we

find to

have prevailed in the

time of David.

the

EGYPT AND
the Spring.
leiTer,

SYRIA.
principal,

215

They reckon one

feveral

two

and

fmall ones;

the
is

whole
neither

forming
with

a piece of

mafonary which

of hewn or rough flone, but of cement mixed

fea pebbles.
rifes

To
to

the fouth, this ftonefeet

work

about eip-hteen
fift-een

from

the

ground, and
this fide
is

the northward.

On

a Hope, wide and gradual enough

to permit carts to afcend to the top, at

which
water
it

when we
prifmg;

arrive
for,

we

difcover

what

is

very fur-

inftead

of finding

the

low, or no higher than the ground

reaches
to
fills

level,

the

top,

that
is

is

the
feet

column
higher
is

which

the well,

fifteen

than the ground.

Befides this, the water

not calm, but bubbles up with violence, and

ruflies

through

channels
It is

contrived at
fo

the
as to

furface of the well.

abundant
it,

drive three mills

which
it

are near

and form

^
js

little rivulet

before

reaches the fea,

diflant.
is

which

only four

hundred paces

The

mouth of
each
fide

the principal v/ell

an od:agon,

of which

is

twenty-three feet three

therefore,

inches,

the diameter,
It

muil

be

fixty-one feet.

has

been faid that this

well
ferts,

has no

bottom;
it

but La Roque afat fix

that he found

and thirty fathorn ^

P 4

2i6

TRAVELS
It Is

IN

thom.

remarkable, that the motion of

the water at the furface, has corroded the interior

Hning of the well,

fo that its edge refts

almoft upon nothing, and forms a half arch

fufpended over the water;
nels

among
it,

the chana principal

I

which branch out from

is

one which joins that of the arches

have

mentioned: by means of thefe arches, the

water was formerly conveyed to the rock, and

from the rock, by the ifthmus, to the tower, whence the water was drawn. The circumjacent country
is

a plain of about

two
from

leagues wide, furrounded by a chain of coniiderably high mountains, v/hich flretch

Kafinia to Cape Blanco.

fat earth,

The

foil is

a black

on which a fmall quantity of corn

are fuccefsfuily cultivated.

and cotton

Such

is

the preient fcate of Tyre,

which may
that at the
to
it.

fuggeil feveral obfervations relative to the fitua-

tion of that ancient city.

tim.e

V/eknow,

when Nabuchcdonofor

laid fiege
to

Tyre was on the continent ; and appears

flood near Pal^-Tyrus, that
but, in that cafe,
is,

have

near the well;

why was ftruded atfo much expence

the rock
(5)
?

this aqueducft
(j)

conto

from the well

Will
piles

it

be alledgedit was built after

r.ine feet

The

of the arches are

wide.

the

EGYPT AND
the

SYRIA.
into

217

Tynans had removed

the ifland?
is,

But prior

to the time of Salmanalar, that

one hundred and thirty -fix years before Nabuchodonofor, their annals mention it as already exifting.

" In the time of

iays the hiftorian

Eululasus,

" king of Tyre,"

as cited
**

Menander,

by Jofephus (t)y

"

Salmanafar, king

of AlTyria, having carried the war into Phcenicia, leveral

" "

towns fubmitted
refiilcd

to his

arms

the Ty;iaiiS

him; but being foon

Acre,

" abandoned by Sidon,

and

Pala?-

" Tyrus,
**

which depended on them, they

to their

were reduced

own

forces.

How-

**

ever, they continued to defend themfeives,

" and Salmanafar, returning to Nineveh, left a *' part of his army near the rivulets and the " aquedud, to cut off their fupply of water,
** **

Theferemained there live years, during which

time the Tyrians had no water but what
they procured from wells which they dug."
If Palag-Tyrus w^as dependant on Tyre,

*^

Tyre

muft have
it.

been fituated at

fome diiLince from

fmce the inhabi-

It

was not

in the iiland,

tants did not

remove thither

until after

Nabu-

chodonofor.
ibre,

Its original lituation mufi:, there-

have been on the reck.

{t)
Ant'iq,

The name of
14,

Judaic,

lib, 9. c.

this

21$
this city
is

TRAVELS
a

IN
Phoe-

proof of

it:

for TJoiir, in

nician, lignifies rock,

this

and flrong hold.

On

rock the colony of Sidonians

eftabiiflied

themfelves,

when

driven from their country,

forty years before the build-

two hundred and

ing of Solomon's Temple.

They made

choice

of this fituation, from the double advantage

of a place which might be

eafiiy defended,

and

the convenience of the adjacent road, which

would contain and cover a

veiTels.

great

number of

The

population of this colony aug-

rnenting,

in time,

and by the advantages of

in

commeice, the Tyrians were

induftry

want of more

water, and conftruc^ed the aqueduct.

The
the

we

find

them remarkable

for in

days of Solomon,
attribute
this

may

perhaps induce us to
It

work

to that age,

muft,

however, be very ancient, fince the water of

the aquedudt has had time to form, by
tion,
filtra-

confiderable

incruftation,

which,

falling

from the
the

fides

of the channel, or the

ob{lrud:ed

inlide of

vaults, has

whole
it

arches.

In order to kcurc the aquedud:,

was

neceffary that a
there,
It

number of

inhabitants

fliould fettle

and hence the origin of

be alleged, this
is

Palx-Tyrus.

may

faditious fpring, formed by a fubterraneous

ganal

EGYPT AND
canal from the mountains

SYRIA.
3

219

but

if fo,

why
?

was

it

not condudled directly to the rock

It

fcems

much more

probable

it is

natural

and

that they availed themfelves of one of thofe

fubterranean rivers of w^hich

}n Syria.

we

find

many

The

idea of confining this water to

is

force

it

to rife

worthy of the Phoenicians.

iituated,

Things were thus

mined

when

the king

of Babylon, conqueror of Jerufalem, deterto deftroy the only city

which contiTyrians rethe end of

nued to brave his power.

fifted

The

him

for thirteen years, at

which, wearied

v/ith endlefs efforts, they rc-

folved to place the fea between

them and

their

enemy,

and pafTed accordingly into the opa quarter of a league's dif-

pofite ifland, at

tance,

Till this period the iiland

muft have

contained few inhabitants, on account of the

want of water fuj.

to

NecefHty taught them

remedy

this inconvenience
flill

by

cifterns,

the

remains of which are

to be

found

in the

form of vaulted
(?/j

caves,

paved and walled with

when he
fpcaks of

Jofephus

is

miftakcn,

Tyre

as

built in

an

ifland in the
its

time of Hiram.
its

In his ufual

manSee

ner he confounds
Ant'iq. "Judaic,

ancient with

porterior fcate.

hb. 8. c. 5,

the

22r

TRAVELS

IN

the utmofl care (x),

eaft, and, to gratify his

Alexander invaded the

barbarous pride. Tyre
rebuilt;

was deflroyed, but foon

her

new

in-

habitants profited by the mole, by v/hich the

Macedonians had made themfelves a pallage to the ifland, and continued the aquedudt
to

the tower,

where the water

But the arches being

is

drawn

at this day.

in

many

places deflroyed, and ferviceable in none,

is
it

how
?

that

the

v/ater

is

conveyed thither

This mufl be done by

trived in the

fecret conduits

conftill

foundations,
it

and

vv^hich

continue to bring

from the

well.

proof

that the water of the tower comes from Ras-

el-aen

is,

that

it

is

troubled in September as
it is

at the tower, at v/hich time

of the fame
tafte.

colour, and

it

has at

all

times the fame

Thefe conduits muft be very numerous; for

though there
are feveral lakes near the tower,

yet the well does not ceafe to fupply a confi-

derable quantity of water.

The power of the

of
this

city of

Tyre on the Meis

diterranean, and in the wefl,

well

known

Carthage, Utica, and Cadiz are celeconridera,ble

(z,)

one has been

lately difcovered
it,

with-

out the walls, but nothing v/as found in

la:n

and the MotJaU

ordered

it

to be fhut up.

heated

EGYPT AND
bra ted monuments.
tended her

SYRIA.
know

zn

We

that fhe ex-

navigation even into the ocean,

and

carried her

commerce beyond England

lefs

to

the north, and the Canaries to the fouth.

conned:ions v^ith the eaft, though

Her
of

knov^n,

were not

lefs

confiderable;

the

iflands

Tyrus, and Aradus, (the modern Bairhain) in

the Perfian

Gulph
time

the cities of Faran and

'Pha:nicum Cppidum^ on the

Red

Sea, in ruins

even

in

the

of the

Greeks,

prove

that the

Tyrians

had long frequented the

fea
;

coafts of Arabia
exifls

and the Indian

but there

an hiftorical fragment, which contains

the

defcriptions

more

valuable, as they pre-

fent a pidure of diftant ages, perfectly fimilar

to

that

of modern times.

fliall

cite

the

words of the writer

thufiafm,

in all their prophetic

en-

only correfting

thofe expreffions

which have " Proud

hitherto been mifunderfliood.

city,

that art fituate at the en-

" "
"
**

try of the fea!

Tyre,

who

hafl faid,

My

borders are in the midll of the feas; hearken

to the

judgments pronounced ngainfl thee!

haft extended thy

Thou

commerce

to (dif-

among the inhabitants of (un" known) coafts. Thou makcft the fir trees
tant) iflands,

"

" of

Sanir (y) into fhips; the cedars of Le(_y)

PoiTibly

Mount

Sannin.

" ban on

221
**
**

TRA
Thy

V L

N
upon the

banon

are thy mafts; the poplars of Bifan

failors are feated

thy oars.

" box-wood of Cyprus (zj,

**

inlaid

with ivory.

Thy
fine

fails

and ftreamers are woven with

**

flax

from Egypt j thy garments are

**

dyed with the blue and,;purp]e of Hellas

"
** *'
**

faj (the Archipelago). Sidon and Arvad fend thee their rowers; Djabal
(Djebila)

her fkilful

fliip-builders

thy

mathematicians and thy lages guide thy

barks ;
in thy
all

**
'*

the

fliips

of the fca are employed

commerce.

The

Perlian, the

Ly:

"
** *'
**

dian,

and the Egyptian, receive thy wages

thy walls are

lers,

hung round with

cuiralies.

their

buck-

and their
line

The fons of Ar;

vad

thy

parapets

and thy towers^

(a Phoenician
brilliant

" guarded by the Djimedeans

**"

people),

glitter

with their
By comparing

qui-

(z)
\vc

Box of Katim.
be convinced

different

paffages,

fliall

tinis

word does not mean Greece^ but

the

Ille

of Cyprus^ and perhaps the coaft of C'dicia^ where

It agrees particularly

the box abounds*

its

with Cyprus, from

analogy with the town of Kitium^ and the people of the

Kitiaus^

on

whom

Eululeus made war in the time of Sal-

manufiir.

(a) In the
fioni

Hebrew

nU'^bx

EUfia^ which does not

differ

Helles^ the

ancient

name

of the Archipelago, pre-

ferved in Hdlcs-pont.

"

vers.

EGYPT And
"
** **

SYRIA.

22^

vers.

Every country
thee.

is

defirous of trading

with

Tarfus fends to thy markets

lead.

iron, tin,

and

Yonia (b), the country

and TehHs (c)^ fupply

'* ** *'

of the Mofques,

thee with Haves, and brafen vefTels.

Ar-

menia fends thee mules, horfes, and horfe-

*'

men. The Arab of Dedan (between Alep*

thy merchanv/ith thee

" po and Damafcus), conveys

**
** *'

dize.

Numerous

iUcs

cxchanre o

ivory and ebony.

rian)

The Aramcan

(the Sy-

(d) brings thee rubies, purple, emchildren of Ifrael and Judah

*^
**

broidered work, fine linen, coral, and agate.

The

fell

thee

^*
**

cheefe, balm,

myrrh, raifins, and oil, andDaand

thy

mafcus fupplies the wineof Halboun, (perhaps Halab, where there are
fine
ftill

*'
**

vines),
offer to

wool.

The Arabs
poliflied

of

Oman

**

merchants

iron,

cinnamon, and

**

the aromatic
{\i)

reed

and the Arabians of

into jctvan^ thougli

Tonn^ pleafantly traveftled

the

ancients never
(f)
T^obcJ^

knew

oar

/.

or Teblisy

is

alio

written

Tcjlls^

and

lies

to

the north of Armenia^ on the frontiers of Georgia,

countries are celebrated

hole

among

the

Greeks

for ilaves,

and

for the iron of the Chalybcs.

(d)

This name extended

vi'

to the Cappadoeians, and

the

inhabitants

d.e

Upper

Al.efopotamia.

" Dedan

5H
*

TRAVELS

IN

Dedan bring thee rich carpets. The in^ " habitants of the Defert, and the Shaiks of " Kedar, exchano;e tlieir lambs and their
** **

goats for thy valuable merchandize.

Arabs of Saba and

Rama

(in the

The Yemen^

**
*'

enrich thee with aromatics, precious ilones,

and gold fej

The

inhal itunts of Haran,

**
**

of Kalana, (in Mefopotamia)* and of Ada-

na (near to Tarfus),

the facftors of the

** **
*'
*'

Arabs of Sheba (near the Dedan), the Affyrians,

and

the
fell

Chaldeans,

trade

alfo

with thee, and

artfully

thee fhawls, garments

filver,

embroidered,

mails,

corvef-

*'
''

dage, and cedars; yea,

fels

the

(boafted)

of Tarfus, are in thy pay.

Tyre!
and

** *'

elate

with the greatnefs of thy

("glory,

the immenfity of thy riches; the waves of

"
**

the fea

fliall

rife

up

againfl: thee;

and the

tempeft plunge thee to the bottom of the

waters.

"
**
**

Then

iliall

thy wealth be fvvallow-

" ed up with
fliali

thee; and with thee in one day

peri fli thy

commerce, thy merchants

failors,

and correfpondents, thy

[e]

pilots,

ar-

Thus

alfo,

Strabo,
all

lib.

16.

fays that

the

Sabeans

furnifhed Syria with

fore

the gold that country received, be-

they Were fupplanted by the inhabitants of Gerrha

uear the mouth of the Euphrates.

tifts.

EGYPT AND
**
**
**

SYRIA.
thy
wall'-.

225

tills,

and

foJdiers,

and the numberlefs pcoI'liy

pie

who
lit

dwell within

rowers
fliall

fiiall

defert thy vefTels.

Thy

pilots

*'
**
**

upon the

fhore, looking forrow-

fully toward the land.

The

nations

whom
thou

thou enrichedfc, the kings

didft

whom

**

gratify

with the multitude of thy

fore afraid at thy ruin,
fliall

" merchandize,
**

fhall

cry bitterly in defpair; they

their hair;

cut off

**
** **

they fhall cafl afhes on their

roll in the dud:,

heads; they fhall

and la-

ment over

thee, faying,

What

city fhali

*'

equal Tyre, that queen of the fea?" ffj. The viciifitudes of time, or rather the bar-

barifm of the Greeks of the

Lower Empire,
this

and the Mahometans, have accomplifhed

predicStion.

Inftead of that ancient

fo extenlive.

commerce

fo active

and

Sour, reduced to

a miferable village, has no other trade than the exportation of a few facks of corn, and

raw cotton, nor any merchant but a lingle Greek fadtor in the fervice of the French of
Saide,

who

fcarcely

makes

fufficient profit to

maintain his family.

Nine leagues
city of Acre,
in

to the fouth

of Sour,

is

the

Arabic called Akka,

xxvii.

known
in

{/) See Ezeklel, chap,

Vol. IL

Q^

226
in times

TRAVELS
fitirated at

IN

of remote antiquity under the name

cf Acq, and afterwards by that of Ptolem^ais.

It is

the northern cape of a bay,

which extends

in a femi-circle of three leagues,

as far as the point of

CarmeL
it

After the ex-

pulficn of the Crufiders,

defertedj but
in

remained almofl

our time has again revived

by the induftry of Daher; and the works

erected

by Djezzar, within the

it

laft

ten years,

have rendered

one of the mofb confiderabis

coall.

towns upon the

The mofque

of this Pacha
tafte.

is

boafled as a
bazar, or

mafler- piece of eaftern

The

covered market,

is

not inferior even to thofe of

Aleppo, and

its

public fountain furpalles in

elegance thofe of Damafcus.

fo the

This

lafl is al-

moft ufefal work;

for, till then.

Acre
the

was only fapplied by a ruinous wellj

water, however,
is fliil,

as formerly, of a very

indifferent quality.

The Pacha

has derived

the more honour from thefe works, as he was

himfelf both the engineer and architect: he

formxcd the plans,

drew the

defigns,

and fu-

perintended the execution.

is is

The

port of Acre
coaft, as it

one of the beft fituated on the

flieltered

from the north and north-weft

itfelf j

winds

by the town

but

it is

greatly

choaked

EGYPT AND
choaked up
fince

SYRIA.

227

the time of Fakr-el-din.

Djezzar has contented himfelf with making

a landing-place for boats.

The

fortifications,

though more
other in
are only a
port,

frequently

repaired

than any
;

all Syria, are

of no importance

there

few wretched low towers, near the

bad, that fome of
Its

on which cannon are mounted, but thefe

are fo

rufly iron pieces

them

burfb every time they are fired.

fide,
is

de-

fence on the land

only a mere garden

wall without any ditch.

The
is

country round

it is

naked

plain, long-^
it

er than that of Sour,

but not no fo wide;

hills,

furrounded by a chain of

which make

an angle at Cape BlancO;. and extend as far

as

Carmel.

The

unevennefs of the country

caufes the winter rains to fettle in the

low

grounds, and form lakes which are unwhole-

fome

in

fummer from
refpedis,

iheir infedlious vapours*

foil
is

In other

the

fertile,

and

both corn and cotton are cultivated with the

greateft
balls

fuccefs.

Thefe

articles

form the

of the commerce

of Acre,
every

which
day.

is

becoming mol-e
late,

flourifliing

the

Pacha,
all

by

an

abufe

Of common
mofold

throughout
nopolized

the Turkilli empire, has

all

the trade

no cotton can be

0^2

228
fold but to

T R A V
made ;

E L

him, and from him every purin vain

chafe mull: be

have the Euro-

pean merchants claimed the privileges granted

them by the Sultan ; Djezzar replied, that he was the Sultan in his country, and continued
his monopoly.
are

Thefe merchants
fix

in general

French, and have

houfes at Acre,
is

with a conful;

an Imperial agent too

lately fettled there,

and about a year ago, a

refidentfor RuiTia.

That
lliips

part of the bay of Acre in

which
lies

anchor with the greateft fecurity

to

the north of
lage of

Mount Carmel, below

(commonly
called
is

the vilCaiffa).

Haifa,

The bottom
not

good holding ground and does

this

chafe the cables; but

harbour

is

open to the north-weft wind, which blows

violently along all this
coafl.
it

Mount Caris

mel, which

commands
feet

to the fouth,
it is

flattened cone,

and very rocky;

high.

about
find

two thouiand

We

ftill

among
trees,

the

brambles,

wild vines and olive

indullry has
for-

which prove
on the fummit

that

merly been employed even on

foil
:

this ungrateful

is

a chapel dedicated to

the prophet Elias, which affords an extenlive

profped: ever

the fea

and land.

To

the

fouth.

EGYPT AND
hills,

SYRIA.
are a great

229

fouth, the country prefents a chain of rugged

on the tops of which

fir- trees,

number
eaft,

of oak and

the retreat of wild boars

and lynxes.
Nazareth,
fo

As we turn towards the

at fix leagues diftance,

we

perceive Najra or
in

celebrated
it is

the

hi (lory

of

Chriftianity i

an inconliderable

village,

one third of whofe inhabitants are Mahometans, and the remaining two thirds Greek
Catholics.

The

fathers

of

the holy land,

who
here.

are dependant

on the Great Convent of

Jerufalem, have an Ilofpitium and a church

They

are ufually the farmers of the

country.

In the time of Daher, they were

obliged to
married,

make

a prefent to every wife

he

and he took great care to m.arry

almofl every week.

About two
Nafra
is

leagues to the fouth-eafl:

of

one of
tain
is

Mount Tabor, from which we have the fined vi.^ws in Syria. This mounof the figure of a broken cone, eight

hundred, or a

thoufimd

yards

in

height.

The fammit
cumference.

is

two
a

thirds of a league in cirit

Formerly

had a

citadel,

of

which now only

few

floncs remain.

From
of
fiir

hence we difcover, to the fouth, a

fcries

YaUies and mountains, which extend

as

Q_ 3

as

23Q
as

T R A V
and
fQQt,

E L

N
the valley of

Jeruklem, while,

to the eaft,

Jordan,

Lake

Tabaria,

appear
as

as
if

if

under our
clofed in
this,

and the lake feems

en-

the crater of a volcano j

itfelf,

beyond

the eye lofes

towards the plains

of the Hauran;

and then turning to the

north, returns by the mountains of Hafbeya,

and the Kafmia,

the

to

repofe

on the

fertile

plains of Galilee, without being able to reach

fea.

The

eaflern

bank of Lake Tabaria

and the fountain of
in

offers

nothins: remarkable but the

town the name of

which it
fountain

bears,

warm miThis
at

neral waters
is

the

neighbourhood.

fituated in the

open country,

the dillance of a quarter of a league from

baria.

Tawith

For want of cleaning

m.ud,

it is filled

a black

which
great

is

a genuine Ethiops

Martial.

Perfons
find

attacked
relief,

by rheumatic
and are
fre-

complaints

quently cured by baths of this mud.

The

town

is

little elfe

than a heap of ruins, and

not inhabited at mofl; by more than one hundred families.

Seven leagues to
hill,

the north
ilands the

of Tabarai, on the brov/ of a

town or
power.

village of Safad, the feat of Daher's

Under the government of

this

Shaik

an

EGYPT AND
211

SYRIA.

231

Arabian college

flouriflied there, in

which

the MotoUcilis doctors inll;rud;ed youth in the

fcience of

grammar, and the

of the Koran.

allegorical inter-

pretation
believe

The

Jews,

Vv^ho

the

Mefliah will eftablilh

the feat

of his empire at Safad, had alfo taken an affe5lion to

this place,
fifty

and colleded there

;

to
tlie

the

number of

or lixty families

but

earthquake of 1759, deflroyed every thing, and S.ifad, regarded by the Turks with an
unfavourable eye,
deferted.
is

now

only a village

almod

As we afcend from

Safad to the

north,

we

follow a chain of lofty mountains,

named Djebal-el-Shaik,
of a number of rivulets
plain of

among which

are

the fources of the Jordan, and likewife thofe

which water the

form
is

Damafcus.
thefe

The high grounds from

flow,
a

whence
diftrict

rivulets

fmall
prefcnt

called Hafbeya,

which

at

governed by an Emir, a relation and

the

rival

of

Emir Youfef, w'ho farms

it

of Diezzar for

fixty purfes.

The

country

is

mountainous,

and greatly refembles the Lowxi* Eebanon.

The

chain of mountains which ftretch along

the vale of Bekaa, was called by the ancients

Anti-Lebanon, from
the

their

being parallel

to

Lebanon of

the

Druzes and Maronites;

232

TRAVELS
This
valley,

IN
them,

and the
is

vale of Bekaa, v/hich feparates

properly ^the

ancient Coele Syria, or hol-

low Syria.

by

colle(fling
it

the

water of the mountains, has rendered

flantly one of the
Syria, but the

conof
all

moft

fertile difrrids

mountains concentrating the rays

likevi^ife a

of the fun, produce

heat in

fummer

not inferior to that

neverthelefs
is

of

Egypt.

The

air

not unhealthy, no doubt be-

caufe perpetually renewed by the north-wind,

and becaufe the waters never flagnate.

inhabitants
terraces.
lleep

The

without injury upon their

of 1759,
villages

Before the earthquake

this

whole country was covered with

-,

and plantations of the Motoualis

deflruition occafioned by this

but the

terrible cala-

mity,

and the fubfequent wars

with

the

Turks, have almoft deilroyed every thing.

The

only place which merits attention

is

the

city of Balbec.

Balbec,

celebrated

by

the

Greeks

and

Latins, under the

name of
is

Heliopolis, or the

City of the Sun,

lituated at the

foot of
rifing

Ar^ti-Lebanon,

precifely

on the

laft

pTOund where the mountain terminates

plain.

in the
dif-

As we

arrive

from the fouth we

cover the city at the diftance of only a league

and

HsnssaHH

DDDDDU

"

\
FLAN OF THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN ^^VT BAL HE
<

EGYPT AND SYRIA.

and a
half,

233

behind a hedge of

trees,

over the

verdant tops of which appears a white edging

of domes and Minarets.

journey
fine

After an hour's

we

reach thefe trees, which are very

;

walnuts

and foon

after, croffing

fome

ill

cultivated gardens,

by winding paths,

arrive

at the entrance of the city.

We

there per^.

ceive

ruined

wall,

flanked

with

fquare
to

towers,

which afcends the

is

declivity

the

right, and traces the preclndts of the ancient

city.

This wall, which

only ten or twelve

feet high, permits us to

have a view of thole

void fpaces, and heaps of ruins which are the

invariable appendage of every Turkilh city
j

but what principally attracts our attention,

is

a large edifice

on the

left,

which, by

its

lofty walls,

and rich columns, manifeftly ap-

pears to be one of thofe temples

which anThefe

tiquity has left for our admiration.

ruins,

which

are

fome of the mofl beautiful

of any in
Alia, merit a

and

beft preferved

particular defcription.

To

give a juit idea of them,

we mufl

fup-

pofe ourfelves defcending from the interior of

the town.

After having croiled the rubbifli

it is

and huts with which

filled,

Vv'e

arrive at

8 vacant place which appears to have been a

fquare

23+

TRAVELS

IN

fquare
weft,

there, in front, towards the fg)-, we perceive a grand ruin (a a), v/hich

coniiils

of two pavillions ornamented with

pilaftres, joined at their

bottom angle by a
the

wall one hundred and {ixty ic&t in lenp-th.

This

front
fort

commands
of
terrace,

open country

from a

on the edge of which

the bafes of

we

diflinguifli,

with

difficulty,

twelve columns,

which formerly extended

principal gate
;

from one
a portico.

pavillion to the other, and formed

The

is

obf}:rud:ed

by heaps of

flones

but that obflacle furis

mounted, we enter an empty fpace, which

an hexagonal court (b) of one hundred and

eighty feet diameter.

This court
mutilated

is

ftrewed

with broken columns,

and the remains of
cornices
;

capitals,

pilaflers, entablatures,

and

around

it is

a rov/ of ruined edifices

{cc)y v/hich difplay

richeft architecture.

all

the ornaments of the the end of this court,

At

oppoiite the weft,

is

an outlet (d), v/hich forthrougli

merly was a
ceive a
ftiil

gate,

which we perrange of ruins,

excites curiofi ty.
thefe,

more
full

extenfive

whofe magnificence ftrongly

To

have a

profped of

we muft

(g) See the plates.

afcend

EGYPT AND SYRIA

afcend a ilope,
to this
gate,

235

up which were the fleps and we then arrive at the en-

trance of a fqaare court (e),

much more

fpa-

cious than the former (h)^ from

which point
attraded by

of view the drawing of the annexed engraving was taken.

The

eye

is firfl

the end of this court, where

majeflic

fix

enormous and
aflonilli-

columns render the fcene

ingly grand and pidurefque.

jedl not lefs interefling,
is

Another obhave

a fecond range of
to

columns

to

the

left,

which appear

been part of the periflyle of a temple (g) ; but before we pafs thither, we cannot refufe particular attention
to

the edifices (h),

which
various

enclofe this court on each fide.

They form

a fort

of gallery

which

contains

chambers (hhhh ), i^s^w of which may be

reckoned in each of the principal wings
:

viz.

two

in a femicircle,

and

five in

fquare.
retains

The bottom of thefe

which

an oblonoo apartments flill

pediments of niches (i) and tabernacles

are de/lroyed.

(I), the fupporters of

On

the fide of the court they are open, and

prefent only four and fix columns

(m),

totally

{h) It

is

three hundred

and

fifty feet

wide, and three

hundred and

thirty-fix in length,

deflroyed.

236
deflroyed.

TRAVELS
It is
;

IN

not eafy to conceive the ufc

of thefe apartments

but this does not dimi-

nifh our admiration at the beauty of their

pilaflers (/z),

and the richnefs of the

{0).

frize

of

the entablature

Neither

is

it

pofiible to

avoid remarking
refults

the lingular efted; v/hich

from the mixture of the garlands, the

large foliage of the capitals, and the fculpture

of wild plants with which they are every

where ornamented.
of the court,

In traverfing the length

we

find in the middle a little

fquare efplanade (i), Vv^here

was

a pavillion,

of which nothing remains but the foundation*

At length we
columns (f)
j

arrive at the foot of the fix

and then

firft

conceive

all

the

boldnefs of their elevation, and the richnefs of

their

workmanfhip.
feet

Their

fhafts are

twenty-

one

eight inches in circumference,

-,

and

fifty-eight high

fo that the total height, in

is

eluding the entablature [o)i

from feventyfight of this

one to feventy-two
at firft ftrikes us

feet.

The

fuperb ruin thus folitary and unaccompanied,

with

ailonifliment

but,

on a more
a
feries

attentive examination,

we

difcover

of foundations, which

mark an ob-

long fquare (f f) of two hundred and iixtyeiVht feet in leno;th,

and one hundred and

forty-

_Pmv& inSyria. H>iJf-p^^

View or the Sqxtare couht of the temple or the sun atBalbec

EGYPT AND
forty-fix

SYRIA.
it

237

wide

and which,

feems probable,
temple,
ilru(^ure.

was the

pcnii-yle

of a grand
this

the
It

primary purpofc of

whole

prefented to the great court,

eafi:,

that

is

to the

a front of ten coIuiTins, w^ith nineteei>.

fide,

on each
flood

which, with

tlie

other

fix,

make
it

in all fifty-four.

The ground on which

a level
it,

was an oblong fquare, on

but narrower than

with

this court,

fo that there

was only

a terrace of twenty- feven feet wide

round the colonnade.

produces, fronts
the
wefi:,

The

efplanade

this

the open country,

toward

by a Hoping wall (l) of about

This defcent,
lefs fleep,
is

thirty feet.

as

you approach
foun-

the city, becomes

fo that the

dation of the pavillion

on

a level
it

with the
is

termination of the

hill,

whence

evident

that the whole ground of the courts has been

artificially raifed.

Such was the former

fide

flate

of this

edifixCe;

but the fouthern

of the

grand temple was afterwards blocked up to

build a fmaller one, the
perifi:yle

and walls

of which are
(cx),

fi:ill

remaining.
feet

This temple
tlie

fituated

fome

lower than

other,

prefents a fide of thirteen columns,

by eight
are like-

in front, (in

all thirty-four),
;

which

wife of the Corinthian order

their (liafts are

fiiteen

238
fifteen

TRAVELS
feet

IN
circumference,
building they

eight inches
in height.

in

and forty-four
furround
is

The
is

an oblong fquare, the front of

eafi,

which, facing the

the
it

out of the line of

left win*:::

of the ereat court.

To

reach

you muft

crofs

trunks of columns, heaps

it is

of ftone, and a ruinous wall by which

now
you

hid.

After furmounting thefe obflacles,

arrive at the gate,

where you may fur-

vey the enclofure [g) which was once the

habitation of a god
;

but inftead of the aw-

ful fcene of a proftrate people,

and

facrifices

oiFering

by

a multitude

of

priefls,

the (ky,

which
only

is

open from the

in light to

falling in of the roof,

lets

fiiew a chaos of ruins,

covered with duft and weeds.

The

walls,

formerly enriched with

the Corinthian order,

all

the ornaments of
prefent nothing

now

but pediments of niches, and tabernacles of

which
to

almofl:

all

the fupporters are fallen

the o-round.

Between thefe niches

pilafliers,

is

range of fluted
port
a

whofe

capitals fup-

broken entablature;
it,

but
fiize

what

re-

mains of
reding
balls,

difplays a rich

of foliage
horfes,

on &c.

the

heads
this

of

fatyrs,

Over

entablature

was the
feet

ancient roof,

which

was

fifty-feven

wide.

EGYPT AND
The
walls

SYRIA.

239

wide, and one hundred and ten in length.

feet hi2:h,

which fupported it are thirty-one and without a window. It is imform any idea of the ornaments of from the fragments lying on
it

pollible to

this roof, except

the eround

but

could

not

have

heen
:'

richer than the gallery of the periflyle

the

principal remaining parts

contain tablets in
\^']iich
;

the form of lozenges,

on

are repre-

fented Jupiter feated on his eagle

fed

Leda

caref-

by the fwan
and

Diana with her bow and

crefcent,
figures of

feveral bufts

which feem
It

to

be

emperors and emprelTes.

to enter

would

lead

me

too far,

more minutely into

afloniiliing
edifice.

the defcription

of this

The

lovers of the arts will

find

it

defcribed

with the greateft truth

v/ork publiflied at
title

and accuracy in a
in

London

1757, under the

of Rtmis of Balbec.

This v/ork, com-

piled
to

by Mr. Robert Wood, the world owes the attention and liberality of Mr. Dawkins,
in

who,
It
is

175 1,

vifitcd

Balbec and Palmyra.

impoffible to add any thing to the fide-

lity

of their defcription.

Several changes

however have taken place

:

fmce their journey

for example,

they found
I

nine large columns ftanding, and, in 1784,

found

240

TRAVELS
fix (f).

IN
nine and

found but
twenty

They reckoned

at the lefler temple,

;

but there

now reIt

main but twenty

likewife
fo

the others have been over-

thrown by the earthquake of 1759.

fliaken

has

the walls of the

foffit (/)

leller

temple,

that the ftone of the

of the

gate has Aid between the

two adjoining ones,

;

and defcended eight inches

by which means
wings, and
its

the body of the bird fculptured on that ftone,

is

fufpended, detached from

its

the two garlands, Vv^hich

hung from

beak

and terminated
have had
columns.

in

two Genii.

Nature alone
;

has not effeded this devaflation

the

Turks

their fhare in the deflrudion of the

Their motive

is

to

procure the

iron cramps,

which

ferve to join the feveral

is

blocks of which each column

compofed.

Thefe cramps anfwer

disjointed
as

fo well the

end intend-

ed, that feveral of the

columns are not even

;

by their

fall

one,

among

others,

Mr. Wood
the

obferves, has penetrated a ftone

of

temple wall without

furpafs
;

giving

way.

Nothing can thefe columns

the

workmanlhip of
for the blade of

they are joined without any

is

cement, yet there

not

room

(/)

The

Sojjt

is

the crofs ftone at the top of a gate.

a knife

EGYPT AND
a knife between their

SYRIA.

241

interftices.
f^ill

After fo

many

ages, they in general

retain their
is
fi

original whitenefs.
aftonifliing
is,

But, what

11

the enormous ftones

more which

compofe the Hoping wall.

the fecond layer
is

To

the weft (l)

formed of ftones which are

to

from twenty-eight
by about nine
ftones,

thirty-five feet

long,

in height.

Over

this layer,

at the north-weft angle (m),

there are three

which alone occupy a fpace of one

feet

hundred and feventy-iive

viz. the
firfl,

and one half ^

;

iifty-eight feet feven inches

feet eleven
-,

the fecond,
third,

fifty- eight

and the

exadly fifty-eight feet;

and each of

thefe are twelve feet thick.

Thefe ftones are

fliining flakes,

of a white granite, with large

like

Gypfe ;

there

is

a quarry of this kind

city,
is

of fione under the whole

adjacent mountain,
places, and,

and in the

which
others,

open in feveral
right, as

among
city.

on the
is fi:ill

we

approach the
a ftone,

There

lying there
is

hewn on

three fides,

which

fixty-

nine feet two

inches

long, twelve feet ten

inches broad, and thirteen feet three in thicknefs.

By what means could the

mafies
?

ancients
is

move thefe enormous VoL.II.

This

doubtleis.-

242
lefs a

TRAVELS IN
problem in mechanics curious to re-

I
have a

folve.

The

inhabitants of

Balbec

very commodious manner of explaining it, by fuppofing thefe edifices to have been conflru6ted

by Djenoun,

or Genii,
;

who

obeyed

the orders of king Solom.on

adding, that the

motive of fuch immenfe

v\^orks w^as to

con-

ceal, in fubterraneous caverns, vaft treafures,

which

ftill

remain there.

To
;

difcover thefe,

many have
tility

defcended into the vaults which

range under the whole edifice

but the inu-

of their refearches, added to the oppref-

fions

and extortions of the governors,

have at length difheartened them
nor would

who
j

have made
text,

their fappofed difcoveries a pre-

but

they imagine the Europeans will be more fuccefsful

;

it

be pofiible to perfuade

them, but what

art

v^e are poiTefied

It

of the magic
is

of deflroying Talifmans.

in vain to

oppofe reafon to ignorance

and prejudice:

and

it

would be no
to

lefs

ridiculous to attempt

to prove

them

that

Solomon never was

acquainted with the Corinthian order, which

was only in ufe under the Roman empeBut their traditions concerning this rors.
prince
tions,
Firfl,

may fugged

three important obferva-

GYP T
Firft,

AND
falfe

SYRIA.
to

243

that all
is

tradition relative

high

antiquity,
as the
fadts
fore,

as
;

among
a

the
as

orientals

Europeans

with them,

with us*

which happened

hundred years bein

when not

preferved

writing,

are

altered> mutilated, or forgotten.

To

expedt

information from them with refpe6l to events

in the time of

David or Alexander, would

be as abfurd as to make enquiries of the

Flemifh peafants concerning Clovis or Charlemagne,

Secondly, that throughout Syria, the

Ma-

hometans,
tians,

as well

as

the Jews and Chrifgreat

attribute
:

every

lomon

not that

work to Sothe memory of him ftill

in

remains

by tradition

thofe

countries,

but from certain pafTages in the Old Tef-

tament
fource

which,
almofl

with the gofpel,

all

is

the
as

of

their

tradition,

thefe are the

only hiftorical books read or

as

known ; but

their

expounders are very

ignorant, their applications of

told, are generally very

what they

are
:

remote from truth

by an

error of this kind, they pretend Balbec

is t/je hoiife

of the forejl of Lehai2on, built by

nor do they approach nearer pro-

Solomon

bability.

244
bability,

TRAVELS
when

IN

they attribute to that king

the well of Tyre, and the buildings of Pal-

myra.

A
den
veries

third

remark
has

is,

that the belief in hid*

treafures

been confirmed by difcoreally

which have been

It
is

made from time

and

to time.
coffer
filver

not ten years fince a fmall

at Hebron, full of gold

was found

medals, with an ancient Arabic book

on medicine.
lince, a jar

In the country of the Druzes,

an individual difcovered, likewife, fome time

with gold coin in the form of a

crefcent

but as the chiefs and governors

claim a right to thefe difcoveries, and ruin

thofe

who
find
it

have made them, under pretext of

to

obliging

them

make

refloration,

thofe

who

any thing endeavour carefully to

3

conceal

they fecretly melt the antique

frequently bury

coins, nay,

them again
found
caufed

in

the fame place

where
fears

they

them,
their

from the fame

firft

which

concealment,

and

which

prove

the

fame tyranny formerly

tries.

exilled in thefe

coun-

When we

confider the extraordinary

magbut

nificence of the temple of Balbec,

we cannot

EGYPT AND
and

SYRIA.

24S

but be aftoniihed at tbe filence of the Greek

Roman

authors.

Mr. Wood, who has

the ancient
it,

carefully examined all

writers,

has found no mention of

except in a fragattributes
.

ment of John of Antioch, who

the building of
'

this

edifice

to

Antoninus

Pius.

The

infcriptions

roborate this

which remain coropinion, which perfectly ac-

counts for the conftant ufe of the Corinthian

order,

fmce that order was not in general

the third age of

ufe before

Rome

but

we
for

ought by no means

to allege as

an additional
;

proof, the bird fculptured over the gate

if his

crooked beak,
bears,

large claws,

and the

caduceus he

give

him

the appear-

ance of an eagle, the tuft of feathers on his

head,
like
is

that of certain

pigeons,
:

proves

that he

not the
is

Roman

eagle

befides that

the

fame bird
is

found in

the

temple of

Palmyra, and
tal eagle,

therefore evidently an orien-

confecrated to the fun,

who was
remote
that

the divinity adored in both thefe temples. His

worfhip exifted
antiquity.

at Balbec, in the mofi: ftatue,

His

which refembled

of Ofiris,

had been brought thither from

of Egypt, and the ceremo-

the Heliopolis

nies

M^
nies

TRAVELS
work

IN
in his

with which he was worlhlpped there

have been defcribed by Macrobius,

curious
entitled SaturnaUa fkj.

Mr. Wood fuppofes, with reafon, that the name of Balbec, which in Syriac fignifies Cky of
Baly or of the Sun, originated in this worship.

The

Greeks, by naming

it

HeHopohs, have,

in this initance, only given a litefal tranfla-

tion of the oriental word, a practice to

which
are ig-

they have not always adhered.

We

norant of the
tiquity
;

ilate
it
is

of this city in remote anto be

but

prefumed that
to

its

lituation,

on the road from Tyre

Palmyra,

gave

it

fome part of the commerce of thof

opulent capitals.

Under the Romans,

it is is

in the

time of Auguftus,
fon town
j

mentioned
Hill

as a garri-

and there

rem.aining,

on

the wall of the fouthern gate, on the right,

as

we

enter,

an infcription which proves the

truth of this, the words

in

Kenturia Prima,
legible.

Greek characters, being very

after,

One

hundred and forty years

{k)

Antoninus built

He

there calls

it

Heliopolis, a city of the JfTyrmns^

the ancients frequently confounding that nation with the

Syrians.

there

EGYPT AND
cient one,

SYRIA.

247

there the prefent temple, inflead of the an-

which was

doubtlefs falHng into

ruins

but Chriflianity having gained the

the

afcendency under Conftantine,

modern

temple was

negle(5ted,

and afterwards cona

verted into a church,

wall of which

is

now

remaining, that hid the fandtuary of the

It

idols.

continued thus until the invafion

it is

of the Arabs, when

vied the Chriftians

probable they en-

fo

beautiful a building.

The
decay

church, being
;

lefs

frequented,
it

fell

to

wars fucceeded, and

-,

was converted
on

into a place of defence

built

battlements were
it,

on the wall which furrounded

pavillions
fubfift
;

the
ftill

and

at

the

angles,

which
fell

and from that time, the temthe ravages of war,

ra-

ple, expofed to

pidly to ruin.

The
able
;

ftate

of the city

is

not

lefs

deplor-

the wretched government of the Emirs

of the houfe

of Harfoufhe,
it,

had already

greatly impaired

and the earthquake of

deftruction .

1759 compleated
of the Emir
rendered
it
ftill

its

The wars
have
;

Youfef,

and Djezzar,
deferted

more

and ruinous

of

five

thoufmd

inhabitants, at

which number

d.

44^

TRAVELS
are

IN
and
all

ber they were eftimated in 1751, not twelve

hundred
poor,

now

remaining,

thefe

without induftry or commerce,

little

and

cultivating nothing but a

cotton, fome
this

maize, and water-melons.

part of the country,

Throughout
foil
is

the

poor,

and

continues to be

fo,

both as

we

proceed to the

north, or to the fouth-eafl, tovv^ard Damafcus.

CHAP.

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.
XXX.

249

CHAP.
Of
J.

the Pachalic

of

T)a?nafciis

HE
lafl:

Pachalic of Damafcus,

the

fourth

and

of Syria,

compreherids nearly the

It

whole

eafliiri

part of that country.

ex-

tends, to the north,

from Marra, on the road

bounded
to the well

to Aleppo, a^ far as Plabroun, in the foutheaft

of Paleftine.

It is

by the mountains of the Anfarians,

Jordan

thofe

of Anti-Lebanon, and the upper part of the

;

then croffing that river in the counit

try of Bifan,

includes Nablous, Jerufalem,

defert to the

and Habroun, and enters the

eafl:,

into

wh'ch

it

advances more or
is

lefs,

ac-

cording as the country

tion; but in general
it

capable of cultiva-

Joes not extend to any

conliderable diftance from the latter

tains, except

where

it

.approaches
it

mounTadmour

or Palmyra, toward
five days journey.

which

flretchcs full

In this vaft extent of country, the

its

foil

and

productions

are

very

various;

but the

plains of the Hauran, and thofe on the banks

of the Orontes,

are

the moil fertile: they

produce

ft5<

TRAVELS
The
foil
is

IN

produce wheat, barley, doura, fefamum, and

cotton.

of the country of Damafcus,

gravelly and poor,

and the Upper Bekaa,

thing
olive,
elfe.

better adapted to fruits and tobacco, than any

On

the mountains are cultivated

mulberry,
places
vines,

and

fruit

trees,

and in

fome

from which the Greeks

the

make
raifins.

wine,

and

Mahometans

dried

The Pacha
poft,

enjoys

all

the privileges of his

which

are

more confiderable than thofe

of any other Pachalic; for befides the farm

of

all

the cuftoms and imports, and an abfois

lute authority, he

alfo

conductor of the fa-

cred caravan of Mecca, under the highly re-

fpeded

title

oi Emir Hadj (I).

The Mahoand
of
be-

metans confider
a Pacha

this oliice as fo important,

entitled to fuch reverence, that the perfon

who

acquits himfelf well in

it,

comes

inviolable even

by the Sultan
his blood.

longer permitted to jhed

no But the
it is

Divan has invented

vengeance on thofe
(/)

method of

fatisfying its

who

are protected

by

this

The

caravmi of
fignlfies

Mecca

bears exclufively the

:

name

of Hadi^ which

pilgrimage

the others are called

privilege.

EGYPT AND
privilege,

SYRIA.

251

without departing from the Hteral

expreffion of the law,

by ordering them

to

be pounded in a mortar, or fmothered in a faek,

of which there have been various inftances.

The

tribute of the

Pacha

to the Sultan,

is

no more than
he

forty-five purfes

(two thoufand
;

three hundred and forty-three pounds)

is
:

but

charged with
thefe

all

the expences of the

lix

Hadj

are eflimated at

thoufand

purfes, or three
five

hundred and twelve thoufand

conlifl

hundred pounds. They

of corn, barley,
rice,

of proviin the hire

lions

&c. and

of camels, which mufh be provided for the

efcort

and

a great

number of

pilgrims.

Be-

fides this, eighteen

hundred purfes muft be paid

to the

Arab

tribes,

who

dw^ell near the road,

to fecure a free paffage.

The Pacha
miri, or
it

reim-

burfes himfelf by the

lands, either

duty upon

by coUediing
he does
in

himfelf, or

by

farming

it

out, as

many places. He
regifters,

does not receive thecuftoms, thefe are collected

by a Dcftar-dar, or mafter of the

and governors of

and are appointed

ries,

for the pay of the Janifacaflles,

which
all

are

on

the

route to Mecca. Befides his other

is

emois

luments, the Pacha

the heir of

the pil-

grims

who

die

on the journey, and

this

not
the

25%

TR A V

E L

N
It is

the leaflof his perquifites; for

Invariably

obferved that thofe are the richeft of the pil-

grims.

Befides

all this,

he has the

profits

he

makes by lending money

for interefl to

mer-

chants and farmers, and taking from them

whatever he thinks proper,

lalfe,

in

the

way of
in fix

or extortion.
eftabiiiliment
confifls

His military
ed,

or feven hundred Janifaries,

better condition-

and more
and

infolent,

than in other parts of

are

the country; as

many Barbary Arabs, who

as

naked,

plunderers

they are

every

where, and in eight or nine hundred Dellibaflies, or

horfemen.

Thefe troops, which

in Syria pafs for a coniiderable army, are neceiTary,

not only by

way of

efcort for the cara-

van, and to reflraln the Arabs, but likewife to

enable

him

to collect the miri

from

his

own
is

fubjed:s.

Every year, three months before

the departure of the Hadj, he makes

called his circuit; that
is,

what

the travels through

his

vail:

government,
raifes

at the

head of his fol-

diers,

and

contributions on the towns

is

and

villages.

This

feldom effected with-

out refinance; the ignorant populace, excited

by

fad:ious

chiefs,

or

piovoked by the inrevolt,

juflice of the

Pacha, frequently

and
pay

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

25^

pay the fums levied on them with the mufketj the inhabitants of Nablous, Bethlehem,

and Habroun,
nefs,

are

famous

for this refrad:ori-

which has procured them pecuHar

pri-

vileges; but

when opportunity
pay ten-fold.
its

offers,

they

are

made

to

The

Pachalic of

Damafcus, from

fituation, is

more ex-

pofed than any other to the incurfions of the

Bedouin Arabs: vet

leaft

it

is

remarked to be the

ravaged of any in Syria.

is,

The

reafon af-

ligned

that inftead of frequently

is

changing

the Pachas, as

pradiifed in

the other go-

vernments, the Porte ufually beftows this pachalic for

life
:

in the prefent century

it

was

held for

fifty

years

by a rich family of Dathree

other.

mafcus, called El-Adm, a father and

brothers

of

which fucceeded each

of them,

Afad, the

laft

whom

have before
it fif-

mentioned

in the hiftory

of Daher, held

teen years, during

nite

which time he

did an infiefta-

deal

of good.

He

had likewife

blifhed fuch a degree of difcipline

foldiers as to prevent the peafants

among the

from being

injured

by

their
like

robberies

and extortions.

His

paffion,

that of all

men

in

office

throughout Turkey, was to amafs money, but

he did not

let it

remain

idle in his coficrs, and,

by

i2'54

TRAVELS
a moderation

IN
this country,
it

by

unheard of in
intereft for
is

required no

more

than

fix

per

cent (m).

An
in

anecdote

related of
his

him

which

will

give an idea of

charadter
infor-

Being one day

mers, by

want of money, the

the

whom

Pachas are conflantly

to levy a

furrounded, advifed
tion

him

contribu-

on the Chriflians, and on the manufac-

turers of fluffs.
*'
*'

"

How much do
faid

you think
*'

that

may produce?"

Afad.

Fifty

or fixty purfes," replied they.

" But," anfum ?" "

fwered he, " thefe people are by no means

**
**

rich,

how

will they raife that

fell

My

Lord, they will

and,
I'll

their

wives jewels:
dogs."

**

befides,

they

are Chriflian

"

fliew you," replied the Pacha,

"

that I

" am an

abler extortioner than you."

fent an

The
As
a
he,

fame day he

order to the

Mufti to

wait upon him

fecretly,

and

at night.

foon as the Mufti arrived, Afad told him,

**

he was
very

informed
life

he

had long

led

** **

irregular
fehe

in private;

that

though

head of the law, had indulged

himfelf in drinking wine and eating pork,

{m) In Syria and
in

Egypt, the ordinary intereft

is

from,

twelve to fifteen, nay, frequently from twenty to thirty per

cent.

contrary

EGYPT AND
*'
**

SYRIA.

555

contrary to the precepts of the moll: pure

book ;

afTuring him, at the

to

fame time, he

" was determined

**

inform againft him to

the Mufti of Stamboul (Conftantinople),

**

but that he wiihed to give

tice,

him

timely no-

" "

that he

might not reproach him with

perfidioufnefs."

The

Mufti,

terrified

at

this

menace, conjured him to

defift;

and, as
traffic

fuch offers are an open and allowed

among
offer;
till

the Turks, promifed

him

a prefent of
rejedled the

a thoufand piaflres.

The Pacha

the Mufti doubled and trebled the fum,

at length

they agreed for fix thoufand

the
reciprocal

piaftres,

with

engagement

to

obferve a profound filence.

The
him

next

day, Afad fends for the Cadi, and addreffes

him

in the

fame manner;
and that he

tells

lie is

in-

formed of

feveral flagrant abufes in his

;

ad-

miniftration

is

no flranger to
cofl

a certain
his head.'

affair,

which may perhaps

him

The

Cadi, confounded, implores

his clemency, negociates like the Mufti; ac-

commodates the matter

retires,

for a like

fum, and
he has

congratulating himfelf that

efcaped even at that price.

He

proceeded in

the fame manner with the Wali, the Nakib, the

Aga of

the Janifaries, ths Mohtefeb, and,

after

a^b
after

TRAVELS
offences

IN

them, v/ith the wealthiefh Turklfh and

Chriflian merchants.

Each of thefe, charged

to

with
and,

peculiar

their

fituations^

above

all,

accufed of intrigues,

were

anxious to purchafe pardon by contributions.

When

the

fum
*^

total

was

collected, the

Pa-

cha, being again with his intimates, thus addreffed them,

*'

Have you heard it

**

reported, in

Damafcus, that Afad has been guilty of

" extortion?"
*'
**

No,
I

Seignior."

means, then, have

dred purfes
I

found the

By what two huninfor-

now (hew you ?" The

in great

mers began to exclaim

*' **

admiration,

and enquire what method he had employed.

I

have fleeced the rams," replied he, " and

not ikinned the lambs and the kids."

After fifteen years reign, the people of

Da-

mafcus were deprived of this man, by intrigues,

the hiflory of which the year
is

thus related

About

I755> one of the black eunuchs of

the feraglio, making the pilgrimage of Mecca,

took up his quarters with Afad 5 but not contented with the fimple hofpitality with

which

he was

entertained,

he would not return by

Damafcus, but took the road to Gaza.

fein

Ho-

Pacha,

who

then was Governor of that

town, took care to give him a fumptuous entertainment.

EGYPT AND
tertainment.

SYRIA.

257

The eunuch, on
his

his return to

Conftantinople, did not forget the treatment

he had received from

two

hofts

and, to

Ihevv .at once his gratitude

and refentment,
raife

determined to ruin Afad, and

his dignity.
ful that, in

Hofein to

His intrigues were

the
year

fo fuccefs-

1756, Jerufalem was

detached from the government of Damafcus,

and beftowed upon Hofein, under the

title

of

a PachaHc, and the following year he obtain-

ed that of Damafcus. Afad, thus depofed, retired

with his houfehold into the

:ftill

defert, to

avoid

greater difgrace.
:

The

time of the
it,

caravan arrived

Plofein conducted

agree-

able to the duty of his nation^ but, on his return, having quarrelled with the Arabs, con-

cerning fome payment they claimed, they at-

tacked him, defeated the efcort,

plundered the caravan, in 1757.

and entirely

On

the

news

of

this difafter, the

whole empire was thrown

into as

much

confuiion as could have been oc-

calioned by the lofs of the moft important bat-

The families of twenty thoufand pilgrims, who had perifhed with thirfl: and huntle.

ger, or been ilain

by the Arabs ; the relations

of a multitude of v/omen
ried into fiavcry;

who had

been car-

the merchants interefled in

Vol.

II.

the

258

T R A

VE

S
all

the plundered caravan,

demanded venBedouins.

geance on the cov/ardice of the Emir Hadj,

and the

facrilege

of the
firfl

The

Porte, alarm.ed, at

Drofcribed the head of

Hofein; but he concealed himfelf fo well,

that he,
it

was impoffible
his
retreat,

to lurprife

him ; while
to ex-

from

a6ling in concert with

the

Eunuch

his prote61:or,

undertook

culpate himfelf, in which, after three months,

he fucceeded, by producing
ous
letter

real or
it

fidiiti-

of Afad, by which

appeared
to at-

that this

Pacha had excited the Arabs

profcription

tack the caravan, to revenge himfelf of

fein.

Ho-

The

was now

turned

againfl:

Afad, and nothing but the opportuit

nity wanting to carry

into execution.

The
fume

pachallc,

however, remained vacant:

Hofein, difgraced as he was, could not rehis government.

The

Porte, deliring

to revenge the late affront,

and provide for

the fafety

of the pilgrims in future,

made

choice of a fmgular man, whofe

character

and hiftory deferve

to

be noticed.

This man,
born near
Entering

named

Abd-allah-el-Satadji, v/as
in

Bagdad,

an obfcure

flatlon.

very young into the fervice of the Pacha, he

had pafTed the

firfl:

years of his life in

camps
and

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

259
'

and war, and been prefent, as a common foldier, in all the campaigns of the Turks againft
the famous Shah-Thamas-Kouli-Khan: and the bravery and
abilities

he difplayed,

raifed

him,

ftep

by

ll:ep,

even to the dignity of

Pacha of Bagdad.

Advanced

to

this

emi-

nent poft, he conducted himfelf with fo

much

firmnefs and prudence, that he reftored peace

to the coimtry
tic

from both foreign and domeffimnle and military

life

v/ars.

The

he

continued to lead requiring no great fupplies

of money, he amailed none; but the great

officers

of the Seraglio of Conilantinople,

who
and

derived no profits from his moderation, did

not

approve

of this

difinterellednefs,

waited only for a pretext to remove him.

This they foon found.

Abdallah had kept

livres

back the fum of one hundred thoufand

the eflate of a merchant.

(above four thoufand pounds), ariiing from

Scarcely had the

Pacha received it, before it was demanded from

him.
ufed
in
it

In vain did he reprefent, that he had

to

pay forae old arrears of the troops ^

the

-^'tiin

did he requefl time: the Vifir only

preffed
refufal,

him

more

clofcly; and,

on a fecond

difjmtched a black eunuch, fecretly

provided v/ith a kat-lherif, to take off his

S 2
'

head.

26o

TR A
The
;

V E L

N
at

head.

eunuch,

arriving

Bagdad,

feigned himfelf a
his

fick perfon

travelHng for

heakh

and, as fuch, fent his refpedts to

the Pacha
htenefs,

obferving the ufual forms of po-

and requefting permiffion to pay him

Abd-allah,
well

vifit.

acquainted

with

the practices of the Divan, was difhruftful of

fo

much
fuch

complaifance,

and fufpedted fome

fecret mifchief.

His

treafurer, not lefs verfed

in

plots,

and greatly attached

to

his
;

perfon,

confirmed him in thefe fufpicions

and, in order to difcover the truth, propofed

to

go and fearcn the eunuch's baggage, while

his

he and
vifit to

retinue

fhould be

paying their

the Pacha.

Abd-allah approved the

expedient,

and, at the hour appointed, the

treafurer repaired to the tent of the eunuch,,

and made

fo careful a fearch,

that

he found

the kat-flierif concealed in the lapelies of a

pelifle.

Immediately he flew to the Pacha,

and, fending for

told

him

into an adjoining

room,

him what he had

furniilied

difcovered fnj,

Abdhid

allah,
it

with the

fatal writing,

in

his bofom, and returned

have thefe
feels

to the apart-

(fi)

from a perfan

who was

intimate

with

this treafurer,

and had feen Abd-allah

at Jerufalcm.

ment;

EGYPT AND
ment
;

SYRIA.
converfation

5t6i

when
:

refuming, with an air of the

his
I

greatefl

indifference,

with
" faid

the eunuch
he,
*

"

The more

think of it,
I

**

Seignior Aga, the

more

am

aflonifli;

ed at your journey into this country

Bagcan

dad

is

fo far
little

from Stamboul, and

of our
air,

v/e

boaftfo
believe

that

can fcarcely
for

you have come hither

no other

purpofe but the re-eftablifhment of your

health."
I

'

"

It is true,"

replied the

Aga

am

alfo

commiffioned to demand of you

fomething on account of the four thoufand

'

pounds you received."

**

We
air

will fay
,

no-

'

thing of that," anfwered the Pacha

" but
to

come," added he with an

confefs

of firmnefs,

that you have likewife orders

bring with you

I

'

fay,

you

my head. Obferve what know my character, and you

be depended on
if
:

know my word may now aflure you that,

without the
leafl

you make an open

you
fhall depart

declaration of the truth,

'

injury."

The eunuch
intentions.
to

nov.'

began a long defence, protefting that

fuch
black

he came with no

By " me
** **

)ny

head,'' faid

Abd-allah, " confefs

flill

the truth:" the eunuch

denied.

By your

hcad^'
S 3

he

fcill

denied: "

Take
care.

262

TRAVELS

l^

By the head of the Sultan 5" be flill " Be it fo," fays Abd-allah, the perfifted. " matter is decided thou hafl pronounced thy
care.
:

"

**

**

doom and drawing forth the kat-{lierif, know you this paper ? Thus you govern at
Conflantinople
villains,
!

;"

**
*' '*

Yes, you are a troop of

who

fport with the lives of

to
difpleafe you,

who-

ever

happen

and Ihed,

" without
** ** **

remorfe, the blood of the fervants

of the Sultan.

The

Vifirmuft have heads:

he

fhall

have one^ off with the head of

it

that dog, and fend

to

Conflantinople."

The
head.

order was executed on the fpot, and the

eunuch's retinue, difmifled, departed with his

After this decifive ftrokc, Abd-allah might

have availed himfelf of his popularity

volt
3

to re-

but he rather chofe to

retire

among

the

Curds.
fent him,

Here the pardon of the Sultan was

and an order, appointing him Pacha

of Damafcus.
titute

Wearied of

his exile,

and A^i-

of money, he accepted the commiffion,

out with one hundred
his fortune.

and

fet

men

v/ho fol-

lowed

On

his

arrival

on the
that

frontiers of his

new government, he learnt

in the
as

Afad was encamped

neighbourhood:
the greateft

he had heard him fpoken of

4.

man

EGYPT AND
man
in Syria,

SYRIA.
and,

263

and was defirous of feeing him.

He

therefore difguifed himfelf,

fix

accom-

panied only by

horfemen, repaired to his

camp, and
without

defu'ed to fpeak
as is

with him.

He

was introduced,
tomary

ufual in thefe camps,

much ceremony;
falutations,

and, after the cuf-

Afad enquired of him

?

whither he v/as going, and whence he came

Abd-allah repUed, he was one of

fix

or itven.

Curd horfemen who were feeking employment, and hearing Satadji was appointed to
the Pachalic of Damafcus, were going to ap-

ply to him

but being informed on their

way

that Afad was

encamped

in the

neighbour-

hood, they had come to requeft of him pro-

With pleafure, replied Afid; but do you know What fort of a man is he.'' Satadji? Yes. Is he fond of money No; Satadji cares
vifions for themfelves

and their horfes.

.^

very

little for

money

or pelilles, or fliawls or
is

pearls, or

women; he

fond of nothing but

well-tempered arms, good horfes, and war.

He

does juitice, protedls the

widow and
lives

the

orphan, reads the Koran, and

on butter
Fatigue
is
:

and milk.
has made

Is

he old

faid Afid.

him appear

older than he

he

is

covered with v/ounds; he has received a blow

S 4

with

264

T R A V
fabre,

E L

with a

his left leg; and another,

lean his head

which has made him lame of which makes him

his right fhoulder. In fhort,

on

faid he, haftily rifing,

tures,

he

is,

in fliape

and fea-

exadly

my
pale,

pidure.

At

thefe

words

Alad turned
loft;

and gave himfelf up for

fitting

but Abd-rllah,

down
I

again,

faid to

him. Brother, fear nothing;

I

am

not
to

fent

by troop of banditti;
;

come not
for

betray thee

on the contrary,

if I

can render

thee any fervice,

command me,

we

are

both held

in the fam.e eftimation with our

mafters; they have recalled me, becaufe they

wifh to

chaftife

the Bedouins;

when they

have gratined their revenge on them, they

will again
lay plots
is

to

deprive

me

of

my

head.

God

great-,

what he has decreed will

Abd-allah repaired
reftored

come

to pafs.

With
to

thefe fentiments,

Damafcus ; where he

good

order,

put an end to the extortions of the

foldiery,

and conducted the caravan,

without paying a
ing his

fabre in hand,

piaftre to the

Arabs.
lafted

Durtwo
perfe<ft

adminiftration,

which

years, the

country enjoyed the moft

tranquillity.
ftill

The

inhabitants of

Damafcus
llept

fay, that

under his government they

ia

EGYPT AND
in fecurity

SYRIA.
He himfclf,
own
in

265
frc-^

with open doors.

quently difguifed as one of the pooreil: of the

people, faw every thing with his
eyes.

The

adts

of juftice he fometimes

did,

con-

fequence of his difcoveries under thefe difguifes,

produced a fakitary circumfpeftlcn.

ilances are
fure.
ftill

Some

in-

told

by the people with pleathat being on

It is faid,

for example,

his

circuit at Jerufalem,
foldiers

he had prohibited
taking, or ordering

his

from

either

any thing without paying.

One

day,

when

he was going about

in the difguife

of a poor

man

with a

little

plate of len tiles in his hand,

a faggot
to carry
it

a foldier,

who had
him

on
it.

his fl:ioulders,

would

force

After fonie

refinance, he took

on

his back, while the

him on with imprecations. Another foldier, knowing the Pacha, made a lign to his comrade,
Delibafhe following him,

drove

who

inftantly

took to

flight,

and efcaped

through the crofs

ftreets.

After proceeding

a few paces, Abd-allah, no longer hearing his

man, turned round, and vexed

ing.

at

mining

his

aim, threw his burthen on the ground, lay-

The rafcaliy knavifli dog he has both robbed me of my hire, and carried off my
!

plate of lentiles.

But the

foldier did not

long
j

efcape

TRAVELSI-N
cfcape; for, a few days after, the Pacha, again
furpriiing

him

in the ad; of
ill

robbing a poor

woman's garden, and

treating her, ordered

his head to be flruck off

upon the

fpot.

As

for himfelf,

he was unable to ward off

After efcaping

the deftiny he had forefeen.

feveral times

from hired

aifaflins,

he was poi-

foned by his nephew.

This he difcovered be-

fore he died, and, fending for his murderer

Wretch
profit
I die,

that thou art, faid he, the villains

hall:

have feduced thee, thou

poifoned

me

to

by

my

fpoils

it is

in

my

power, before

to blaft thy hopes,

I

and puniili thy in-

gratitude; but

know
laft

the

Turks; they

will

be

my avengers.
his

In fad:, Satadji had fcarcebefore a Capidji proflrangle

ly breathed

duced an order

to

the

nephew

which was executed. The whole hiftory of the Turks proves that they love treafon, but Since Abdinvariably punifh the traitors.
allah, the Pachalic of Daniafcus

^
jM

has palTcd

'"

fuccelTively into the

hands of Selik,

Ofman,

Mohammed, and Darouilh, the fon of Ofman, who held it in 1784. This man, who has
not the talents of his father, refembles

him

in

his tyrannical difpoiition, of which the follow-

ing

is

a ilriking iiiftance.

In the

month of November,

EGYPT AND

SY-RIA.

267

November, 1784, a village of Greek Chriftians, near Damafcus, which had paid the
miri,

was

called

upon

to

pay

it

a fccond

tiiTiC.

The
to

Shaiks, appealing to the regider, refafed

3

comply

but a night or two

after, a

party

of foldiers attacked the village, and flew one

and

thirty pcrfons.

The

v/retched peafants;,

in conflernation, carried the heads to

Damal-

cus,

and demanded jufbice of the Pacha.

to leave the heads in the

After hearing their complaints, Darouiili told

them
Vv^hilc

Greek churciT,
enquiries.

he

made

the

neceffary

Three days

elapfed,

and the heads putrifybury them

vras
;

ing, the Criflians

v/iflied to

but
ne-

for

this

the

Pacha's

permiflion

ceflary, for
fity

which they were under the

necef-

of paying forty purfes, or above two thou-

fand pounds.

About a year

ago,

(in

1785), Djezzar,

availing himfelf of the influence his

money

had procured him

to

at the Porte, difpofll^fled

at

Darouiih, and governs at prefent

Damafcus,

which

it is

faid

he

is

endeavouring to add

the pachalic of Aleppo.

But

it

is

not pro-

bable the Porte

this, as

v/ill

confent to

grant

him

fjch an incrcafe of power would renmaflier of all Syria

j

der

him

but befides that

the

268

T R A V

E L

N
affairs, it

the necefTity of obferving the Ruflians leaves

the Divan no leifure to coniider thefe

concerns

itfelf

but

little

about the revolt of

the governors, fince conftant experience has

proved, that, fooner or
to
fall

later,

they never

fail

into the fnares that are laid for

them.

Nor
and

is

Djezzar likely to be an exception to

this rule; for

though not

deftitute of talents,

efpecially

equal to

cunning foj, his abilities are unthe tafk of conceiving and accom-

plilhing a great revolution.

The

courfe he
:

purfues

is

that

of

all

his

predccelTors

he

only concerns himfelf with the welfare of

the public, fo far as
private intereft.
at
it

coincides v/ith his

Acre

is

The Mofque he has built monument of pure vanity, on

which he has expended, without any advantage, the fum of three millions of livres,
(one

hundred
:

and
Bazar

twenty
is

five

thoufand

pounds)
utility;

his

undoubtedly of more

but before he began to build a m.ar-

ket for the fale of corn and vegetables, he

fliould

have paid fume attention to the

ftatc

of agriculture, by whicli they are to be pro(o)

Baron de Tott has

called

Djezzar
calling

a lion

think he

would have defined him better by

him

a zvolf.

duced.

EGYPT AND
daced, and this
is

SYRIA.

269

in a very languifhing

con-

dition indeed, except

clofe to

the walls of

Acre.
confifts

The
in

principal part of his expences

his
:

gardens,

his baths,
latter

and his
poiTelTed

white

women
in
is

of the

he

eighteen

women

1784, and the luxury of thefe moft enormous. As he is now

loft

growing old and has

pleafures,

the reiifh for other

he regards

nothing but amaffing

his foldiers,
irk

money.
and his
his

His avarice has alienated

feverity created

him enemies even

his

own

houfe.

Tv/o of

pages

have

ah-eady attempted to alTaffinate

him; he has
piftols,

had the good luck

to

efcape their

but fortune will not always favour him; he

will one day Ihare the fate of fo

many

others,

and be taken by furprize, when he will reap

no other

fruit

from

his induftry in

heaping

up wealth, than the

obtain poffefllon of people he has

eagernefs of the Porte to

it,

and the hatred of the Let us

opprelTed.

now

re-

turn to the
Pachalic.

moft remarkable places

in this

The
Pachas.

firil:

that prefents
capital

itfelf is

the city of

Damafcus, the

and rcfidence of the

it

The Arabs

call

el-Sham^ agreetlie

able to their cufLom of bellowlnn

name
(^f

27

TRAVELSIN
its

of the country on
Oriental

capital.
is

Tlie ancient

name of Demefik
This
city
is

known

only to

geographers.
plain,

lituated in a vafl
eafi:,

open

to the fouth

and

and fhut in

tov/ard the weft and north

by mountains, wdiich
j

limit the view at no great diftance

return, a

but in
thefe

number of
v/hich

rivulets arife

from

mountains,

render

the

territory

of

Damafcus the
province of

beft watered

and moft delicious

it

all

Syria

-,

the Arabs fpeak of

with enthuliafm ; and think they can never fufficiently extol the frefhnefs

and verdure of

its
its

orchards, the abundance and variety of

fruits,
its

numerous ftreams, and the

and
fountain's.

clearis

nefs of

its rills

This

alfo

the only part of Syria v/here there are de-

tached pleafare houfcs in the open country.

The

natives

muft

fet a

higher value on thefe

advantap-es, as they are

more

rare in the adfoil,

jacent provinces.

In other rcfpedis, the

which
lour,
is

is

poor, gravelly, and of a reddifli co-

ill

adapted for corn

fuitable

but

is

on that

account
are

more

to

fruits,

which
city

here

excellently

flavoured.

No
;

contains fo

many

canals and fountains

all thefe

each

houfe has one; and

waters are fur-

nhlied bv three rivulets, or branches of the

fame

EGYPT AND SYRIA,

iiime river,

271

which

after fertilizing the gardens

for a courfe of three leagues, flow into a hoi-

low of the Defeit

or the

to the

fouth-eaft,

where

they form a morafs called Behairat-d-Mardjy

Lake of
ftich

the

Meadow.
it

With

a fituation
is
;

cannot be dif-

putedthat Damafcus
able cities in

one of the mofl agreebut

it is
ftill

Turkey

deficient

in point of lalubrity.

The

inhabitants

comob-

plain with reafon, that the white waters of

the Barrada are cold and hard

and

it is

ferved that the natives are fubjed: to obflructions; that the whitenefs of their
llcin is

rather

the palenefs of ficknefs, than the colour of

liealth;

and that the too great ufc of

fruit,

particularly of apricots, occafions there, every

fummer and autumn,

dyfenteries;

intermittent fevers and

much lono;er than M. Niebuhr, who has given a

Damafcus
is

it is

broad.
it,

plan of

makes
fifty

it

three

thoufand two hundred and

than a league

toiks, or ibmething iefs

and a
thefe

half in

circumference.

Comoarine
I

dimeniions

with thofe of Aleppo,

fuppofe that Damafcus m:iy contain eighty

thouland inhahitar.ts.
the feare Arabs

The

greater

part of

and

T-.-'.rks j

the

number of
Ciiriilla ns

272

TRAVELSIN
two
thirds of

Chri/lians are eilimated at above fifteen thoufand,

whom

are

Schifmatics.

The Turks

never fpeak of the people of

Da-

mafcus without obferving, that they are the

mofl mifchievous
in the

whole empire; the

Arabs, by a play on words, have

proverb
cus,

Shami, fioumi.
:

made this The man of Damaftchelebiy

wicked
of

on the contrary, they fay of the

Halabiy
inaitre.

people

Aleppo,
2^

The
pre-

Aleppo man,
judice
ligions,

petit

From
the

arifmg from

the

difference

of re-

they alfo add, that

Chriftians
elfe-

there are

more
more
they

vile

and knavifli than

where
are

doubtlefs,

becaufe the

there
this

fanatic

Mahometans and more infolent.

the inhabitants of

In

refemble

Cairo; like

them, they deteft the Franks,

nor

is

it

pofTiblc to appear at
drefs
;

Damafcus
have

in a

European

our merchants

not
y

been able to form any eftablifhment there

W'e

only meet with two Capuchin Mifliona-

rics,

and a phyfician

who is

not permitted to

pradlife.

This hatred the people of Damafcus bear

the Chriftians,
is

maintained and increafed

Ly

their

communication with Mecca.

they,
is

Their
it

city,

fay

a holy place,

fmce

is

one

EGYPT AND SYRIA

one
of the gates of the
is

273

Caaba

for

Da-

mafcus^

the rendezvous for all the pilgrims

from the north of Afia, as Cairo is for thofe from Africa. Their number every year
amounts
to

from

thirty

to fifty

thoufand

many of them

repair hither four

fore the time, but the greateft

months benumber only at

reto

the end of the Ramadan.

Damafcus then
is

fembles an immenfe fair ^ nothing

be fccn

but ftrangers from even Periia

;

all

parts of Turkey,
is

and

and every place

full

of camels,

horfes, mules,
after

and merchandize.
all

At

length,
vaft

fome days preparations,

fet

this

multitude

out confufedly on their march,

and, travelling by the confines of the Defert>

arrive in forty days at

Mecca,

for the fefirival

of the Eairam.

As

this

caravan traverfes the

tribe?,

country of feveral independent Arab

it is

necefiary to

make
them

treaties

with the Be-

douins, to allow

certain

fums of money
for guides.

for a free pafTage,

and take them

There

are

frequent difputes on this fubje<fl

betv/een

the Shaiks, of

which the Pacha

but
given to the tribe
the fouth of

avails himfelf to
in

make

a better bargain;
is

general the preference

ofSardia, which encamps to

Damafcus,

along
^

the

Hauran; the

Pacha.
fends

Vol.

II.

474

TRAVELSIN
the Shaik a

fends to
pelifle,

mace, a

tent,

and a
chief
is

to fignify

he takes him
this

as

his
it

condudor.

From

moment

the

Shaik's bufmefs to furnifli camels at a ilated

price; thefe he hires likewife

from

his tribe

and

his

alhesj the

Pacha
lofTes

is

refponlible for

no damages, and
account.

all

are

on his

own

On

an
yearly

average,
i

ten

thoufand
a very
for

camels

perifli

advantageous

article

which forms of commerce

the

Arabs.
It

muft not be imagined that the

all

fole
is

motive of
devotion.

thefe expences

and fatigues

Pecuniary intereil has a more con-

liderable fhare in this expedition.

The
almoft

ca-

ravan affords the means of engroffing every

lucrative

branch of commerce
it

all

the pilgrims convert

lation.

into a matter of fpecu-

On

leaving their

own

country, they

load themfelves with merchandize,

fell

on the road

the fpecie

which they arifmg from this,

added to what they have brought with them,

is
it

conveyed to Mecca, where they exchange

for

muilins and India goods from

Mala-

bar and Bengal, the fliawls of Caihmire, the

aloes of

Tonquin, the diamonds of Golconda,

of
Barhain,

the

pearls

pepper,

and

great

EGYPT AND
great

SYRIA.
the

275

quantity of coiFee from

Yemen.

Sometimes the Arabs of the Defert deceive

the expediation of the merchant, by pillaging

the

ftragglers,

and

carrying

off

detached
the

parties of the caravan.

But

in general

pilgrims arrive fafe

fits

in

which

cafe their proall

are very coniiderable.

At

events they

are recompenfed in the veneration

attached

to the

title

of Hadji^ (Pilgrim)

-,

and by the

pleafure of boiifling to their

countrymen of

the wonders of the Caaba, and

Mount Arafat;

of magnifying the prodigious crouds of pilgrims, and the

number of victims, on the day

and recounting the dangers and

of the Bairam

fatigues they have undergone, the extraordi-

nary figure of the Bedouins, the Defert without water, and the tomb of the prophet at

Medina, v/hich, however,

is

neither fufpended
obje(5l

by a load-flone, nor the principal

their

of

pilgrimage.

Thefe

wonderful

tales

produce their ufual

effect, that is,

they excite

the admiration and enthufiafm of the audience,

though, from the confeffion of fmcere pilgrims, nothing can be

this journey.

more wretched than

Accordingly, this tranfient ad-

miration has not prevented a proverb,

does
little

which

honor

to

thefe pious

travellers.

Difirujl

276

TRAVELS
houf

IN

Dijlriift thy neighbour, fays the

made a Had] ;

Arab, if he has but if he has made tivo, make

:

hafte to leave thy

and, in fad:, expe-

rience- has

proved that the greater part of the

of

devotees

Mecca
for

are

peculiarly

infolent

and treacherous,
penfe themfelves

as if they w^iflied to

recom-

having been dupes, by

becoming knaves.

By means of
become the
merce.

this

caravan,

Damafcus

is

centre of a very extenfive

com-

By Aleppo,

the merchants of this

city correfpond

with Armenia, Anadolia, the

Diarbekar, and even v^ith Periia.

They

fend

caravans to Cairo, which, following a route

frequented in the time of the patriarchs, take

their courfe

by Djefr-Yakoub, Tabaria, NaGaza.

In
return,

blous

and

they

receive

the merchandize of Conflantinople and

rope,

EuTlie

by

Vv^ay

of Saide and
is

Bairout.
filk

home confumption
cotton
ftuffs,

balanced by

and

which
fruits

are

manufactured here

in great quantities, and are very well

made 5

by the dried

of their

own

growtli, and

fweetmeat cakes of rofes, apricots and peaches,

of which Turkey confumes to

fand pounds)

^^Wk^

amount

of near a million of livres, (about forty thou.

The remainder,

paid for by the

courfe

EGYPT AND
circulation of

SYRIA.

277

courfe of exchange, occadons a

confiderable

money

in

cuftom-houfe duties,

and the commiffion of the merchants.

This

commerce has
the
earhefl

exifled in thefe countries

from

antiquity.

It

has

flowed

through

different channels, according to the

changes of the government, and other circumflances; but

it

has every where left very

it

apparent traces of the opulence

produced.
fpeaking,

The
affords a

Pachalic

of which
this

am
I

monument of

kind too remarka-

ble to be palfed over in lilence;

mean

the re-

mains of Palmyra, a city celebrated in the third

age of

Rome,

for the part

it

took in the dif-

ferences between the Parthians and the

Ro-

mans, the power and

Zenobia, and
its

fall

of Odenatus and

deflru6tion under Aurelian.

From
of

that time hiflory preferved the

name

this

great

city,

but

it

was merely the

had
poffeffed.

name,
of the

for the
real

world had very confufed ideas

it

grandeur and power

They were

fcarcely even fafpedted in

Europe,
century,

until towards

the end

of the

lafl:

when fome
tired

Engliili

merchants of Aleppo,

with hearin:^ the Bedouins talk of the

ruins to be found in the Defert, re-

immenfe

folved

278

1'

R A V E L

IN

folved to afcertain the truth of thefe extraor-

dinary relations.

Thefiril attempt was made

in 1678, but without fuccefs; the adventurers

were robbed of

all

they had by the Arabs,

and obliged

to return

without accomplifhing
again took courage
in

their delign.

They

1691, and at length obtained a fight of the

antiquities

in

queflion.

Their

narrative,

publilhed in the philofophical tranfadtions,

met with many who

felves

refufed

belief;

men
any

could neither conceive nor perfuade themthat in

a fpot

fo

remote from

habitable place, fuch a magnificent city as

their drawings defcribed could have fubfifted.

But

iince

Mr. Dawkins
all

publifhed, in 1753,

the plans and views he himfelf had taken on the fpot in 1751,
it is

doubts are at an end, and

univerfally
left

acknowledged that antiquity

has

nothing, either in Greece or Italy, to

be compared with the magnificence of the

ruins of Palmyra.
I fhall give a

fummary of the
Dawkins

relation

of

Mr. Wood,
journey of

the companion and editor of the

(/>)

Mr

(/)

Ruins of Palmyra^ by Robert

fifty plates,

Wood,

vol. in folio

with

London 1753.

"

After

EGYPT AND
*'

SYRIA.

279

After learning at Damafcus that

Tad-

**
'' **
**

mour, or Palmyra, depended on an Aga

who

refided at Haffia,

we

repaired, in four
is

days, to that village,

which

fituated in

the Defert, on the route from

to Aleppo.

Damafcus
us with

**

The Aga
all

received

"
*'

that hofpitality which is fo

common in thefe
our

countries

amongft

ranks of people,

**
'*

and, though extremely furprized at

curiofity,

gave us inftrudiions
the befl manner.

how

to fatiffet

"
**

fy

it

in

We

out

**

from Haffia the lith of March 1751, with an efcort of the Aga's .befl Arab

" horfemen,
** **
**

armed

with

guns

and

long
to

pikes

and travelled in four

through a
a
little

hours

Sudud,

barren

plain,

fcarce

affording
lopes,

browzing

to

ante-

"
*'

of which
is

we faw
Its

a great number.

Sudud

a poor fmall village, inhabited

by

*' **
**

Maroiiite Chriftians.

houfes are built

of no better materials than

the fun.

They

cultivate as
is

mud dried in much ground

" about
*'
**

the village as
fubiiftence,

neccffary lor their

bare

and

wine.
journey,

After

dinner, arrived

make a good red we continued our

in

**

and

three
<*

hours

at

4.

Owareen,

28o
**

TRAVf:LSlN
village,

Owareen, a Turkilh
lay.

where we

"
** **

" Owareen has

ruins
there,

the

fame appearance of

poverty as Sududj but

vvhich fhew

we found
it

a few

to

have been

" formerly
**

more confiderable
inhabitants,

place.

We
aban-

remarked a
doned by

village near this entirely

*'
*' **

its

often in thefe

which happens countries; where the lands

to

have no acquired value from cultivation^

*' ** **

and are often deferted

avoid oppreffion.

We

fet

out from Owareen the 12th, and

in three

arrived

hours at Carietein, keepv

point and

" ing always

*' **

in the direction of a

a half to the fouth of the

village
(differs

eafh

This

from the former, only by

It

*
<*
**

being a
per

little larger.

was thought pro-

we

fliould ilay

here this day, as well

to colled: the refl of our efcort

which the
pre-

" Aga had ordered

*'

to attend us, as to

pare our people and cattle for the fatigue

the remaining part of our journey; for,
it

" of
<*

though we could not perform

time than twenty-four hours,
it

in lefs

*'

could not

<
<

be divided into

ftages, as there is

no water

in that part of the Defert.

EGYPT AND
<*

SYRIA.

281

We

left

Carietein the 13th,

being in

**

all

about

two hundred

perfons, with the

carriage, confiflaffes,
little

" fame number of beafts of

"

ing of an odd mixture of

a

mules, and
to the eaft

" camels. Our route was " of the north, through a

** **

flat

fandy plain,

without either

tree

or water, the whole

about ten miles broad, and bounded, to our

a ridge of barren
hills,

" right and left, by " which feemed to

**

join about

two miles

before

we

arrived at Palmyra.

" The
" end of
**

14th, about noon,

we

arrived at the

the plain, where the hills feemed to

meet.

We

find

between thefe

hills a vale,

" through which an aquedud (now

**

ruined)

formerly conveyed water to Palmyra.

In

" this vale, to our right and left, were feveral " fquare towers of a confiderable height, " which upon a nearer approach, we found
**
**

were the fepulchres of the ancient Palmyrenes.

We had fcarce pafled

all at

thefe venera-

**
'* ** **

ble

monuments, thai the

hills

opening,

difcovered to us,

once, the greatefl

ever (ecn [q), and,
flat

quantity of ruins

we had

behind them, towards the Euphrates, a

Though

{q)

thefe travellers

had

vifited

Greece TinA

Italy.

" walle

28a
*'
*'

TRAV

E L

wafte as far as the eye could reach, without

any objedt which fhewed either Hfe or

motion.
It
is

*'

fcarce polTible to imagine-

" any thing more ftriking than this view, * So great a number of Corinthian pillars,
**

with

fo

little
irnjik

wall

or

folid

buildings

"
*'

afforded a

romantic variety of prof-

pea."
Undoubtedly the
effedt
;

of fuch a light

is:

not to be communicated
reader to

but, to enable the

idea of
it,

form a

better

annex

the j^erfpedtive view.

To

have ajuil con-

ception of the v/hole, the dimenfions muft be

fupplied by the imagination.

This narrow
vail:

fpace mufl

be coniidered as a

plain,

thofe minute fhafts, as columns whofe bafe

alone exceeds the height of a man.

The

rea-

der jnuik reprefent to himfelf that range of

ered:

columns,

as

occupying an extent of
yards,

more than twenty-fix hundred

hind
find a

and

concealing a multitude of other edifices be-

them.

In

this

fpace

we fometimes

palace, of

which nothing remains but

now, a

the courts and walls ; fon^etimes a temple whofe

periflyle
is

half thrown dovv^i; and

portico, a gallery, or triumphal arch.

Here
is

iland groups oi columns, whofe iymm.etry

deitroyed

EGYPT AND
dcftroyed by the fall of

SYRIA.
;

283.

many of them

there

we

fee

them ranged

in

rows of fuch length,

that fimilar to rows of trees, they deceive the

fight,

and afTumc the appearance of continued

If

walls.

from

this

ftriking fcene

we
we

call

our eyes upon the ground, another, almoft

as varied,

prefents itfelf:

on

all fides

be-

hold

nothing

but fubverted

fliafts,

feme
diflo-

whole, others

fliattered to pieces,

or

cated in their joints ; and on

which

iide foever

we

look,

the

earth

is

ftrewed

with

vafl

ftones half buried, with

broken entablatures,
tombs, and

damaged

capitals, mutilated frizes, disfigured

reliefs, effaced fculptures, violated

altars defiled

by

duft.

The

following are the references to the an-

nexed plate.

A,

a Turkifli

cafi:le,

now

defer ted.

B, a fepulchre.

C, a ruined Turkifh

fortrefs.

D,
as

fepulchre,

from

whence

begins

a range of columns which

extend as far

R, upwards of twelve hundred yards. E, aa

28^*

TRAVELS
edifice

IN

E, an
clefian.

fuppofed to be built by Dio-

F, Ruins of a fepulchre.

G, columns
periflyle

difpofed in the

form of the

of a temple,

H,
I,

grand

edifice

of which there remain

only four columns.

Ruins of a Chriflian church,

K, a range of columns which feem ta have formed part of a portico, and which
terminate in the four large pedeflals mark-

ed L.

L, four

large pedeflals.

M,
N,
falfe

the cell

of a temple with part of

its

periftyle.

a fmall temple.

O, a number of columns which have the

appearance of a Circus.
P, four magnificent columns of Granite.

columns difpofed

in the

form of the

periftyle of a temple.

R, an arch,
at ben-ins o S,

at

which the portico which

terminates.

a large

column.

T,

a Turkilli
t,

Mofque

in ruins,

with

iis

Minaret,

U, huge

EGYPT AND
U, huge columns, the
with
its

SYRIA.
largeft

285

of which,

entablature, has been

inclofures

thrown down.

V,

little

of land

where the

Arabs cultivate

olive-trees

and corn.

X, Temple of the Y, fquare towers,

fun.

built

by the Turks where

the portico formerly flood.

Z, wall which formed the enclofure of the

court of the temple.

&. &.
vallev,

6c.

Sepulchres difperfed over the

citv.

without the walls of the

But

muil

refer the reader

to the

plates

of Mr. Wood, for a more

planation

particular
edifices,

ex-

of thefe various

and to

make him
to
ages.

fenfible of the degree of perfediion

arts

which the

had

arrived in thofe remote

Architefture more efpecially lavillicd

her ornaments and difplayed her magnificence

in the

temple of the fun, the tutelar deity of

Palmyra.
it,

The

fquare court v/hich enclofed

feet

was

fix

hundred and feventy nine

round the

each

way, and a double range of columns was

continued
all

infide.

In the mid-

dle of the vacant fpace, the

temple prefents
feet,

another front of forty-feven

by one hun-

dred and t\venty-four in depth.

Around

it

runs

286

TRAVELS
is

IN
forty

runs a periftyle of one hundred and

columns, and, what

very

extraordinary,

the gate faces the fetting and not the rifing

fun.

The

foffit

of this gate which

is

lying

on the ground,

prefents a zodiac, the ligns of

which
foffit

are the

fame

as in ours.

On

another

is

a bird fimilar

to

that

of Balbec,
It is a re-

fculptured on a ground of ftars.

mark worthy
lars,

the obfervation of hiftorians,

that the front of the portico has twelve pillike that of Balbec
ftill
;

but what
is,

artifts

will efleem

more curious

that thefe

two

fronts refemble the gallery of the Louvre,

built

by Perrauit, long before the exiftence

of the drawings which made us acquainted

w^ith

them; the only

diiference

is,

that the

columns of the Louvre are double, whereas thofe of Balbec and Palm3Ta are detached

Within the court of

philofopher

this

fame temple, the

may

contemplate a fcene he wiM

interelling.

eftcem

11:111

more

Amid

thefe

hallowed

ruins

of the magnificence

of a

powerful and polidied people, are about thirty

mudwalled huts, which contain

peafant families,
fip-n

as

many

who

exhibit every external

of extreme poverty.

So wretched are the

fo

prefent inhabitants

of a place once

re-

nowned

EGYPT AND
nowned and populous!
cultivate a
as
is

SYRIA.

2^

few

olive-trees,

Thefe Arabs only and as much corn

fubfillence.

barely neceffary for their

All their riches confiil in feme goats and

flieep

they feed in the Defert

and they have

of the

no other communication
U'orld than

w^ith the reft

by

little

caravans,
a

to

them

five or

Hx times

which come year from Horns,

Incapable

f which they are a dependency.

are compelled

of defending themfelves from violence, thev

to

pay frequent contributions

to the Bedouins,
prote(51:

them.

who by turns harrafs and The Englifli travellers inform

are healthy

us,
**

" Thefe
fliaped,

peafants

and well

and the few diftempers they are

*'
**
**

fubjed: to, prove that the air of

Palmyra
it

merits

the

eulogium beilowed on
epiille to

by
It

Longinus, in his

Porphyry.

**

feldom rains there, except

are

at the equinoxes,

" which
"

accompanied

alfo

by thofe hur-

ricanes of fand, fo dangerous in the

fert.

Deis

"
<*

The completion
does

of thefe Arabs

very fwarthy from the cxceffive heat; but

this

*'
**
**

not

hinder

the

having beautiful features.

women from They are veiled

j

but are not fo fcrupulous of fiiewing their

faces
as the trailern v/oir.cn

*'

j^eneraHy are;
*'

they

-S8
'^ **
**

TR A V
their
lips

E L

N
their eye-

they dye the end of their fingers red, (with

henna),

blue,

and

brows and

eye-lafhes

blacky

and wear

<

very large gold or brafs rings in their ears

nofes."

" and
It
is

impofiible to view fo

many monu-

ments of induftry and power, without v/iihing

to be informed

what age produced them, and

immenfe riches they
word, without enquiring into

what was
indicate;

the fource of the

in a

the hiftory

of Palmyra, and

why

it

is

fo

Angularly fituated, in a kind of ifland feparated

from the habitable

fands.

earth,

by an ocean
I'*'TOve

of

barren

The

travellers

quoted, have
into
this

made

very judicious refearches

queftlcn, but too long to be in-

ferted here; I

muft again

refer the reader

to

that work, to fee in

what manner they

dif-

tinguidi

two forts of ruins at Palmyra, one of which muft be attributed to very early
ages,

and are only rude, unfliapen mailes; while

the others,

which

are the magnificent

mo-

numents

fo often

mentioned, are the work of

more modern times. lie will there fee, in vs'liat manner they prove from the ftyle of srchiteclure, that theie latter muft have been
eredled in the three centuries preceding

Dio-

clelian.

EG YPT AND
clcfian,

VR

A.

289

in

ferred to
flrate

which the Corinthian was preThey demonevery other order.

from the Euphraon one of
between
;

with great ingenuity, that Palmyra,

wealth and fplendor
pofition

fituated three days journey

tes,

was indebted

for

its

to

the advantage of

its

the great roads, by

which the valuable comtimes

fubfifted

merce that has

have proved,

all

India and Europe w^as then carried on

in
fliort,

they

that the Palmyrenes

v\dien,

were

at the

height of their profperity,

the

become

a barrier between

Romans and
enough
to

the Parthian s, they were politic

maintain
to

neutrality in their difputes,

and

render the luxury of thofe powerful

em-

pires fubfervient to their

own

opulence.

Palmyra was

at

all

times a natural

em-

porium
Lidi'a

for

the

merchandize coming from

by the Perlian Gulph, which, from

by way
of the

thtiice

Euphrates

or

the

Defert,

was conveyed
to
dilfufe

into
its

Phctnicia,
varied

and

Afia minor,

luxuries

among numerous
always

nations with

whom they were

in great requeft.

Such commerce muft

and rendered
at
lirfl:

neceifirily, in the

moil early ages, have caufed

it

this fpot to be inhabited,

a place

of importance,

though

of no great
celebrity.

Vol.

II,

290
celebrity.
it

TRAVELS
The two
were, above
all,

IN
frefli

fprings of

water

(.r]

pofleiTes,

a powerful in-

ducement in a Defert every where elfe fo parched and barren. Thefe doubtkfs were
the two principal motives which drew the
attention of Solomon, and induced that

com-

mercial prince to carry his arms to a place

.fo
*'

remote from the

acflual

limits

of Judea.

He
the

built flrong walls there," fays the hif-*

"
*'

torian Jofephus (s), to

poffefiion,
lignifies

fecure
it

himfelf in

and nam.ed

Tadmour,

**

which
it

the Place of Palm-trees."

Hence
its

has been inferred that Solomon was

firfl

founder; but

we

lliould,

from
it

this

paffage, be rather led to conclude that

was

already a place of

known

importance.

The

palm-trees he found there are not the trees

of uninhabited countries.

Prior to the days

of Mofes, the journies of Abraham and Jacob,

from

Mefopotamia

into

Syria

fufficiently

prove a communication between thefe countiies,

which
Thefe

mull; foon

have made Palmyra

and fulphureous, but the

(r)

Avaters are

warm

inhabitants who, excepting thefe fprings, have none but

what

is

brackifh, find them very good, una they are at leail

vf-holefome.
(y)
Ji:t:q.

Jml

lib.

8.

c.

6.

flourifli.

liGYPT AND SYRIA.

Roui'lPn. as

291

The cinnamon and

in the

pearls

mentioned

found there

time of the Hebrew legiftl:e

lator,

demonflrate a trade with India and

Periian

Gulph, which mufl have been carried on

by the Euphrates and Palmyra. At this difcancs

of time, when the greater part of monuments of
thefe early ages have periihed,

we

are liable to
th.e

form very faife opinions concerning

the

iLiteof

thefe countries in thofe remote times,

and are
as

more

ealily

deceived,

as

we admit
of

hiflorical

facts

antecedent

events,
If

an

entirely different charadter.

we

obferve,

however, that

men

In all ages

are united
defires,

by

the fame interells

and the fame

we

cannot help concluding, that a commercial

intercourfe

muft early have taken place bethis

tween one nation and another, and that

intercourfe

mull have been nearly the fime

V/ithout

with that of more modern times.

lomon,
prince,
light

therefore going higher than the reign of So-

the invafion
is

of

Tadmour by

that

fufiicisat

alone to

throv/ a great

on the

hifror)
v^^cuid
Co

of this city.
i.ever

The king

of Jerufalem
attention
to

have carried his

diflant

and detached a fpot,

interefc,

without forne pov/erful motive of

this interefl

and

could be no other than that of

an

292

T R A

V E L

an extenfivc commerce, of which this place

was already the emporium.

extended Giilph
itlelf

This commerce
and
the

to

India,

Perfian

was the principal point of union.

corroborating
force
this

Various facts concur in

laft

alfertion;

nay,

neceilarily

us

to

acknowledge the Perfian Gulph

as the centre

of the commerce of that Ophir^ concerning

which
framed.
the

fo

m.any

f.ilfe

hypothefes have been

not in this

For, was

it

Gulph
not

that

Tyrians carried
the
earlieft

on a

flourifliing trade

from
Illes

ages,

and are

the

of Tynis and Aradus

fufficient proofs

of

the fettlcments they

made

there

If
if

Solomon
he flood
vefTels,

fought the alliance of the Tyrians,

in

need of their pilots to guide his

the objedt of their
places

mnil not
been thofe

voyage

have
fre-

which they ah-eady

repaired

quented, and to

which they
in

from

their port oi Fhcemciim opp'idum, on the

fea,

Red-

and perhaps from

'^I'or,

v/hich

name

we may
city
?

difcover traces of that of their

pearls,

own

Are not

which were one of the

principal articles of the

commerce of Solomon,
iljes

almofh the exclufive produce of the coafl of

the Gulph,

between the
called

of Tyrus and

Aradus,

(now

Barhain),

and Cape

Mafandoum?

EGYPT AND SYRIA

MafandoLim
were
io
?

293

Have

not

peacocks,
the

wliich

much admired by
adjoins to the
their

Jews, been

ahvays fuppofed natives of that province of

Perfia

which

not

procure

Gulph ? Did they monkeys from Yemen,

and where they
the
ftill

which was
abound?
Saba,
(or

in their w^ay,

Was

not

Yemen
the

country of

Sheba,)

queen

of

which
Sa-

brought frankincenfe and gold

king
?

to the Jewilli
tlie

And

is

not the country of

for

beans celebrated by Strabo

great
quantities

producing

of gold

Ophir has been

is it

fought for in India and in Africa; but

not one of thofe twelve Arabian
tribes

diflridts,

or

mentioned
?

in the genealogical annals

it

of

the

Hebrews

And ought

not therefore to

be looked for in the vicinity of the countries they inhabit, hnce this genealogical geography

always obferves a certain order of fituation,

Vv'hatever

Bochart and Calmet

to the contrary? In fliort,

may have faid do we not diftinctly

OJbr,
pearl

perceive the
a

name of Ophir, in that of town of the diftrid: of Oman, on the

There
is

coaft?

no longer any gold

is

in this

country; but this

Strabo pofitively

of no confequence, fince
that in the

aflerts,

time of
the

494

TRAVELS
road to Babylon

IN
conliderable
all

the SeleucidsB, the inhabitants of Gerrha, on the

obtained

quantities

from
it

it.

On

weighing

thefe

circumllances,
Perfian

mufl be admitted that the

centre of the moll

Gulph was the extenfive commerce of

world, and that
it

the ancient
a

eaflern

was with
it

view of conior

municating wiih
fecure
route,

by a Ihorter

more
atthat,

that

Solomon turned

his

tention

towards the

Euphrates; and
its

from the convenience of

fituation,

Pal-

myra mufl from

fiderable city.
ied;ure,

that period have been a con-?

We may even
refled;

reafonably con-^

when we
a

on the revolutions

of the following ages,

that this

commerce

became
wars
in

principal

caufe of thofe various

for
early

Lov/er Aha, of
thofe

which the barren

tim.es

chronicles

affign

no

motives.

If after the reign of Soloinon, the

AiTyrians of Niniveh turned their am^bitious

views towards Chaldea, and the lower part

of

the

Euphrates,
that

it

was with intention

fource of opulence

to approach

gr,eat

the Perlian Gulph.

If Babylon, from being

fliort

the vafTal of Niniveh, in a

time beempire,

came her
it

rival,

and the

feat

of a

new

was begaufe her

fituation rendered her the

ppporiun^

EGYPT AND
emporium of
if the

SYRIA.
trader in

295
fliort,

this lucrative

kings of this great city waged perpetual

their objedl

wars with Jerufalem and Tyre,

was not only

riches,

to defpoil thofe cities

of their

but to prevent their invading their

Pvcd-fea.

trade

by the way of the

(/)

An

hif-

torian

who

has informed us that

Nabu-

chodonofor, before he laid fiege to Jerufiiem,

took polTeiiion of Tadmour, clearly indicates

that the latter city a(fled in concert with the

two neighbouring
decline became,

capitals.

Their gradual

under the Perfian empire,

efiicient

and the fuccelfors of Alexander, the

the time of the Parthians and

caufe of the fudden greatnefs of Palmyra in

then

enjoyed

long

Romans j (lie peace, for many

centuries,
eredt

which allowed her inhabitants to thofe monuments of opulence whole

flill

rains

we

admire; and they the more readily

adopted this fpecies of luxury, as the nature

of the country permitted no other, and from

the natural propenfity of merchants, in every
nation, to difplay their wealth in magnilicent
buildings. Odenatus

and Zenobia carried

this

profperity to

its greatefl:

height; but by at-

(/)

John of Antioch.

tempting

296

TRAVELS
its

IN
and Pahnyra,
iiie

tempting to exceed

natural limits, they at

onc-e deflroyed the equilibrium,

flripped by

Aurchan of the power

had

acquired in Syria, was beiieged, taken, and

ravaged by that emperor, and

her liberty and
fecurity,

loft in

one day

which were the

principal fources of her grandeur.

'

From

that

period, the perpetual wars of thefe countries,

the devaftations of conquerors, and the oppreffions

ple,

of defpots, by impoverifliing the peo-

have

din:iiniilied

the

commerce and
very
heart

def-

troyed the fource

which conveyed
the

induftry

and opulence into

Deferts
:

of the

the feeble channels

that have fur-

vived, proceeding

from Aleppo and Damafde-

cus, ferve only at this day to render her

fertion

more

fenfible

and more compleat.

Leaving thefe venerable ruins, and returnIn p- to the inhabited world,

we

iirft

meet

with

Homs,
on the

the

Emefus of the Greeks,

bank of the Orontes
a flirong and

fituated

eaflern

this place,

which was formerly

city,
is,

populous

at prefent,

only a large
.

ruinous town, containing not more than two

thoufand
partly

inhabitants,

partly

Greeks,
refides

and
here,

Mahometans.

An Aga

who

GY

T AN D

YR

A.

297

who
myra.
as

holds, as a fub-renter of the

Pacha of
Pal-

Damafcus, the whole ccuntry

as far as

The Pacha

himfelf holds this farm

an appanage deriving immediately from

the Sultan.

llama and Marra

are held in

the fame manner.

Thefe three farms pay

four hundred purfes, or five hundred thou-

fand livres (above twenty thoufand pounds)

-,

but they produce nearly four times that fum.

Two

days journey below Horns,

its

celebrated in Syria^for

Hama, water- v/orks. The

is

wheels are in faft the largefl in this country,

being thirty- two feet in diameter. Troughs are
faflened to the circumference, and fo difpofed
as to fall in the river,

and when they reach

conveyed by
baths.
valley

the vertex of the wheel, difcharge the water

into a refervoir,

whence

it

is

conduits

to

the public and

is

private

The town
on
the

lituated in

a narrov/

banks

of the

Ororites,

contains

about four thoufand inhabitants, and polleffes

fome trade from

its

fituation

on the road
as

from Aleppo

to Tripoli.
dillric^t,

The foil,
is

through-

out this whole

well adapted to

wheat and cotton 3 but

agriculture, expofed

to the rapine of the Motjallam

is

and the Arabs,

in a very languifhing condition

An Arab
Shaik,

TRAVELS
Shaik,

IN
is

named Mohammad-el-Korfan,

be-

come
is

fo

powerful of late years, as to impofe

arbitrary contributions on the country.

He
field

fuppofed to be able to bring into the

thirty thoufand horfe-men.

Continuing

to defcend the Orontes,

by an

unfrequented route,
country, where

wc

arrive
a

at a

marfliy
intereil:-

we meei with

place
it

ing from the change of fortune

gone.

has under-

This

place, called

Farmia, was forcities

merly one of the mofl celebrated

Syria, under the name of Apamea. there," fays Strabo, " That the
**
**

of

"

It

was

Seleucidge,

had eflablifhed the fchool and nurfery of

their cavalry."

The

foil

of the neighbourlefs

hood, abounding in pafturage, fed no

thirty thoufand mares, three

than

hundred

flallions,

and

five

hundred elephants

-,

inilead of

which
af-

the marfhes of Famia

at prefent fcarcely

ford a fev/ buftoloes and fheep.

teran foldiers of Alexander,
after

To

the ve-

who

here repofed

their vi(flories,

have fucceeded wretchdread of the

ed peafants,

who

live in perpetual

oppreffions of the

Turks and the inroads of

profped:
is

the Arabs.

The fame
is

repeated on

every fide throughout thefe diilrifts.

Every

town, every village

built

of materials furniihed

EGYPT AN D
niflied

SYRIA.
continually
defert,

299

by

ruins, "and
edifices.

founded on the rubbifh

of ancient

We

meet

with

fuch ruins,

both on the

and re-

turning along
tains

this road, as far as the

,

mounpafs to

of Damafcus

and even

as

we

the fouthward
plains

of that city in

the imrnenfe

of

the

Hauran.

The

Pilgrims

of

Mecca, who
flep,

traverfe the latter for five or fix

days journey,
the
are,

afiure us they

find, at every

vcfliges

of ancient
lefs

habitations.

They

however,

remarkable in thefe
materials.

plains, for
foil is a fine

want of durable

The
is

mould without
fertility,

xlones,

and almofl

without even the fmallefl pebble.

faid

What

of its adtual

perfedly correiponds

with the idea given of it

in the

Hebrew writings.
do not

Where-ever wheat
fail, it

is

fown,

if the rains

repays the cultivator with profufion, and

to the height of a

grows

man.

The

Pil-

grims aficrt, alfo, that

the inhabitants are

ftronger and taller than the reft of the

rians.

Sy-

They muft

differ

fronvthem likewiie

in other refpects,

on account of the climate,

is

for this

part of the country

as to

fo excefiively

hot and dry,

Syiia.

refemble Egypt more than

as

In the defart,

they have no runtheir fires

ping, waters nor

wood, they make

with

300

1^

R A V E L

IN

with dung, and build huts with pounded They are very tawny; they earth and ilravv.
pay a tribute
under
;

to the

Pacha of Damafcus, but

of

the greatelt part of their villages put themfelves

the protection

fome Arab

tribes

and when the Shaiks are prudent, the

country prolpers, and enjoys fecunty.

The

mountains, however, which border on thefe

plains to the
lecure,
lies

Weft and North, are llill more account a number of famiwhich on

in

of the Druzes and Maronites, wearied

with the troubles

Lebanon, have of

late

years taken refuge there, and built, dea^

(u)

or villages, Vv^here they freely profefs their religion,

and have

priefts

and chapels.
here,

An

intelligent traveller

would

no doubt, be

able to

make

various

interefting difcoveries

in antiquities

and

natural hiftory; but

no

European has been hitherto known

penetrated thefe receffes.

to have

As we approach the Jordan, the country becomes more hilly and better watered; the
valley

through which

this river flows

abounds,

in general, in paflurage, efpecially in the

upit

per part of

it.

As

for

the river

itfelf,

is

very far from being of that importance which

() Hence the-Spaiiiih word, aldea*

we

EGYPT AND
we
are apt to alTign to
it.

SYRIA.
The
Arabs,

301

who

are ignorant of the

el-Sharia,

name of Jordan,

call it

Its breadtli,

between the two prinfixty or eighty

cipal lakes, in
feet
;

few places exceeds

depth
is

but

its it

about ten or twelve.

its

In winter

overflows

narrow channel,
forms a
of a
is

and, fwelled

by the
a

rains,

flieet

of

water
broad.
rally in

fometimes

quarter
its

league

The

time of

overflov/ing

gene-

March, when the fnows melt on the

:

mountains of the Shaik

than any other,
its

at

which

waters are
its

more troubled, and

time,

of a yellow hue, and

Its

courfe impetuous.
a thick forefl:
flirubs,

banks are covered with

of

reeds, willows,

and various

^vhich

ferve as an afylum

for wild boars,

ounces,

jackals, hares,

and

different kinds

of birds.

Crofling the Jordan, half

way between the

country,

two

lakes,

we

enter

hilly
tlie

anthe

ciently

celebrated

under

name of

kingdom of Samaria, but

country of NabloiiSy
iituated near to Sichem,

at prefent called the

its capital.

This town,

and on the ruins of

is

the Neapolis of the Greeks,

of

the reiidence

^
is

Shaik,

who

farms the tribute, for which

he

accountable to the Pacha of Damafcus,

his circuit.

when he makes
3

1 he

flate

of this

country

302

TR
Is

A V E L

1 Ki

1
fuuh
are dif-

country
this

limllar to that of the Druzes^, witli

difference, that its inhabitants are

zealous

Mahometans

as not willingly to fuffer

any Chriflians among them.

perfed in villages
foil

They

among

the mountains; the

of which

is

tolerably fertile,

and produces
and fome

a great deal of corn, cotton, olives,

filks.

Their diftance from Damafcus, and

the difficulty of invading their country, by

prcferving

them

to a certain degree

from the

oppreffions of the government, enables

to live in

them

to

more peace and happinefs, than is They are at prelent be found elfewhere.
to their political

even fuppofed the richefl people in Syria-

which advantage they owe

condud: during the late troubles in Galilee

and Palefline; when the tranquillity

they lived, induced

in

which

many

perfons of property

to take refuge there.

But, within

the laft

four or five years, the ambition of certain

Shaiks, encouraged by the Turks, has excited
a fpirit of faction and difcord, the confequences

of v^hich have been almoft as mifchievous as

the oppreffions of the Pachas.

Two

days journey to the fouth of Nablous,

/ollowing thecourfe of the mountains, which

at every ftcp

become more barren

ap.d

rocky,

we

EGYPT AND
we
atrive at a

SYRIA.
lilce

303
others

town, which,

many
:

already mentioned, prefents a flriking

ple of the viciffitude of

exam-

human
its

affairs

when

we

behold

its

walls levelled,
its

ditches filled

up, and
ruins,

all

buildings embarraffed with

we

fcarcely can believe

we view
powerful

that

celebrated metropolis, which, formerly, with-

flood the efforts

pires, and,

of the

mod

em-

for a

time, refilled the

arms of

Rome

herfelf;

though,
its

by a vvhimfical

change of fortune,

ruins now^ receive her

homage and

reverence; in a word,

we with
more
are

difficulty recognize

Jerufakm,

Still

we

aftoniflKd at its ancient greatnefs,

its fituation,

when we
foil,

confider
flitute

amid a rugged
fieep heights.
it

de-

of water, and furrounded by dry chan-

nels of torrents,

and

Remote

from eveiy great road,

feems neither to

have been calculated for a confiderable mart

of commerce, nor the centre of a great confumption.
ftacle,
It

overcame however every ob-

may be adduced as a proof of what popular opinions may efi'eft in the hands of an able Legiilature, or when favoured by happy circumftances. The fame opinions
and
flill

preferve to this city

its

feeble exifience.

The renown

of its miracles perpetuated in the

5
Eaff,

304

Pv

A V E L

N
number Mahometans,

Eaft, invites and retains a coniiderable

of inhabitants within

its

walls.

Chriftians, Jews, without didindlion of fe6ts,

all

make it

a point of religion to fee, or to have

noble

feen,

what they denominate the

and

holy

city (x).

To

judge from the refpeft the init

habitants profefs for the facred places

tains,
is

con-

we

fhould be ready to imagine there

not in the world a more devout people j

this has

but

not prevented them fi-om acquir-

ing, and well deferving, the reputation of the

vileil

people in Syria, without excepting thofe

even of Damafcus.

Their number

is

fuoJ.

pofed to amount to twelve or fourteen thouland.

Jerufilem has from time to time had

vernors of its
ovv^n,

Go-

with the

title

of Pachas;

but

it is

in general, as at this day, a

it

depend-

ency of Damafcus, from which

receives a

MotfaUam\ or deputy Governor.

fallam farms
it

This Motarif-

and receives the revenues

by any

(v)

The

Orientals never call Jcrufalem

Elkofh^

otlier

nanie than

the

Holy.

Sometimes adding

the

Epithet El Sheriff the

to

nolle.

This word El-Kods leems

all

mc

the etymological origin of

the Caf.us of antiquity,

Vi-hich like

Jerufalem

v/ere h'lgh [lacci^

and had Temples, or

Holj-placci erected

on them.

EGPYT AND SYRIA.

ing from
cially
tlie

305

Miri, the cufloms,

folHes

and efpe-

from the

of the chrillian inhalafl

bitants.
article, it

To

conceive the nature of this

muif be underftood, that the

fchifmatic, and

dif-

ferent

communions of

ca-

thohc Greeks, Armenians, Copts, Abyffinians

and Franks, mutually envying each other

the polTeffion of the holy places, are continually endeavoring to outbid one another in

the price they offer for

them

to the Turkifli

Governors.
ing
to obtain
it

They
fome
from

are

conflantly

aim-

privilege for themfelves,

or to take
is

their rivals:

and each

fedt

perpetually informing againfl the other for

irregularities.

Has
or
ufual

Church been clandefa

procefiion

tinely

repaired;

extended
a

beyond
tomary:
to the
fit

the

limiits:

has

Pilgrim
cuf-

entered by a different gate from

all

that

thefe are fubje6ts of accufation

fails to

Government, v^hich never

fines

pro-

by them, by
hatreds,

and extortions.
eternal

Hence
jangling,

thole

and that

which prevail between the different convents ^

and
the

adherents
to
as

of

each

communion.

The Turks,
money,
are,

whom

every difpute produces

we may

imagine, far from

wifliing to put

an end to them.

They

ail^

Vol.

II.

in

306
in

TKA
whatever
thele

V E L

N
their protecfpirit

ftation,

derive

fome advantage
fell

from
tion,

quarrels;

fome
:

others their intereft

hence a

of

intrigue
lity
iites

and cabal, which has

clafs
-,

diffufed vena-

through every
for
to

and hence perqui--

the

Motfallam,

which annually

amount
piafterSr

upwards of one hundred thoufand

and another for an efcort
impofcd

Every Pilgrim pays him an entrance

piafters,

fee

often

for the journey to the Jordan, without rec-

koning the

lines

in

confequence of

the im.prudencies committed by thefe Grangers during their flay*

Each convent pays

him

much for the privilege of proceffions^ and fo much for all repairs they undertake, befides prefents on the accefiion of a new fufo

perior, or a

new Motfalkm^ not

all

to mentiont

private gratiiications to obtain

fecret trifles

they

folicit;

which

is

carried to a great

length

among

the Turks,

who
in

are as v/ell

verfed in the art of fqueezing

money
Europe.

as the

moil able law praditioners

fides all
this,

Be-

the Motfallam collcds duties

certain

on the exportation of
janBuarles,

fingular

com7~e~

modities from Jerulalem, I

Iks,'

mean

leads,

crojjh^ pq/jlons,

cignus-deis,

fcapularies, &;c.

of which near three hundred

5
chefls

EGYPT

ND

YR
The

A.

307

chefts are lent off annually.

fabrication

of thefe utcniils of piety procures fubfiftence

for the greateft

part

of the

Chriftian and

Mahometan
are

families

of Jcrufalem

and

its

neighbourhood; men, women, and children

employed
coral,

in carving, in

and turning wood

lilk,

and

and

embroidering in
iilver

with

pearls,

and gold and

thread.

The con-

vent of the Holy- land, alone, lays out annually

to

the

amount of

fifty

thoufand piafters in

thefe wares,

and thofe of the Greeks, Ar-

menians, and Copts, taken together, pay a

flill

larger fum.

This

fort

of commerce

is

the

more advantageous to the manufadturers, as their goods coft them little befide their labour; and the more lucrative for the
as
fellers,

the

price

is

enhanced

by
to to

fuperilition.
Italy,

Thefe commodities exported

Portugal,

Turkey,
Spain,

and

efpecially

pro-

duce a return of confidcrable fums, either in

the form of alms or payments.

To

this the

convents join
article

another
the

not
vijits
all

lefs

important

of

traffic,

of the Filgrims.
times the devout

It is well

known

that at

curio fity of viiiting the holy places, has occalio-

ned Chriftians of every country torefort to Jerufalem.

There was even a time when the

V

miniilers

3cS

TRAVELS
of
religion

N
it

mlnifters
difpenfibly

taught

was
and

irr-

neceilaiy

to

falvation,

this

prions
to

zeal pervading all Europe, gave rife

the Crufades.

Since

their

unfortunate

ilTue,

the zeal of the Europeans cooling every-

day, the

number of pilgrims has diminifhed

',

and they are

niili,

now

reduced to a few Italian, Spais

and German monks, but the cafe

dif-

ferent with the Orientals.

fpiiit

Faithful to the

of pail times, they continue to coniider

the journey to Jerufalem as a

greateH:
m.eritj

work of the

they

are

even fcandalized

at the relaxation
fpecSl,

of the Franks in this reall

and

fiy,

they have

become

heretics

or infidels.

Their

priefcs

and raonkf,

who

find their advantage in

ceafe to

this fervor,

do not

promote

it.

The

Greeks, efpecially,

declare that the pilgrimage cnfures plenary indulgejice, not only for the paji,

but even for the

only from 7nur^

future

'y

and that

it

abfohes

?iQt

and pederajiy, but even from the negleB of fafing and the non-obfervance of
ther, incef,
.

fefivah, which are far more heinous

offences.

Such great encouragements

their eiTedl^
gri.r.s^

are-

not without
pil-

and every year a crowd of

all ages, fet

of both fexes and

out from

the Ivlorea,

the Archipelago,

Conllantino-

EGYPT AND
pie,

SYRIA.
Egypt, and

309
Syria,

Anatolia, Armenhi,

the

number of
regiflers,

whom

in

1784, amounted to
fin^,

two thouland.
tlieir

The monks, who

made
this

by

that formerly ten or twelve

thoufand

annually

pilgrimage,

never ccafe exclaiming

that religion rapidly

is

decavs, and that the zeal of the faithful

nearly extinguiihed.
hovv'ever, that this
It

mufl be
is

confelTed,

zeal

rather

expenfive,

iince Gofls

the
lefs

mofl moderate pilgrimage never

than four

thoufand

livres,

(one

hundred and

lixty-fix pounds),

and fome of
to fifty

them, by means of
or
fixty

offerings,

amount

thoufand,

(twenty-five

hundred

pounds).

Yafa
bark-

is

the port where the pilgrims difemarrive

in

They

November, and
of

re-

pair without delay to Jerufalem,

where they
Eafler.

remain until after the

feilival

They
tive

are lodged confufedly,

by whole families,

in the cells of the convents of their refpec-

care
tous
fafe

communions j the monks take efpecial to tell them that this lodging is gratui;

but

it

would be

neither civil, nor very

offering

to depart

without making an

greatly exceeding the ufual price of apartlijents.

Befides

tliis,

it is

impoffible to dif-

penfe

310

TRAVELS
another

IN
extribute.

penfe with paying for mailes, fervices,

orcifms, &c.
confiderable

The

gilgrim mufl alfo purchafe

crucifixes,

beads, agnus-dei's,

&c.

On

Palm-funday,

they go to purify themfelves In the Jordan,

an expedition which Ukewife requires a contribution.

One

year with another,

it

pro-

duces to the governor fifteen thoufand Turkiih

fequins, or four thoufand fix

hundred and
half of

eighty-feven pounds {y), about one

which
efcort,

is

laid

out in

the expences of the

and the fums denianded by the Arabs,

The

reader

mufl ronfult particular

relations

of this pilgrimage, to form an idea of the

tumultuous march of
into the

this

fanatic multitude

plain of Jericho j
zeal with

the indecent and

fuperftitious

which they throw

children, naked

themfelves, men,
into the

women, ana

Jordan; the fatigue they undergo

before they reach the borders of the Dead-fea;

the melancholy infpired by the fight of the

gloomy rocks of that country, the mofl favage

in nature 5 their return

and

vifitation
of'

of thq
the

holy places; and the ceremony

new

{y)

At

the

rate of

Hx

fhillings

^n4 three-pence the

fcquin.

EGYPT AND
fire^

SYRIA.
The

311-

which dcfcends from

heaven on the holy

Orientals
tlie

Saturday^ brought by an angel.

flill

believe

in

this

miracle,

though
priefcs
v/liat is

Franks acknowledge that the

into

retire

the Sacrifly,

and

elled;

^o\\q

hy very natural means.

Eafter over, each returns to his
try,

own counthe
{x)-,

proud of being able

in the
title

to

rival

Manay.;,

hometan

of Pilgrim

many

of them, in order to diflinguifh them-

felves as fuch, imprint

on

their hands, wriils,

or arms, figures of the crofs, or fpear, with

the cypher of Jefus and Mary.

This painful,

and fometimes dangerous, operation (a) is performed with needles, and the perforations
filled

with gunpowder, or powder of antiis

mony, and
alfo to be

never to be effaced.
pra<ftice,

The Mawhich
is

hometans have the fam.e

as

found among the Indians, and other

it

favages,

was likewife among

feverai

ancient nations with

tion

w^hom
which

it

had a connecit flill

with
The

reli^^ion^
't>'

retains

(z)

difference

between them

is,

that

thofe

of

Mecca are called HadjeSy and thofe of Jerufaletn a name formed from that of the city, El-Kods.
[a) I have feen a pilgrim

Mokodji^

who

had

loft

an arm by

it,

the

cubital nerve being

wounded

in the operailoiu

wherever

312

TRAVELS
it

IN
does

wherever

prevails.

So

much devotion

not however exempt thefe pilgrims from the

proverbial cenfure thrown upon the Hadjesj
lince the Chriflians

fay likevvife

beware of

the pilgrims cf 'Jerujalem,

We may

well fuppofe that fo great a

at

mulor fix

titude, refiding

Jerufalem for

five

months, muft leave behind them confiderable

fjms; and reckoning only

they cannot expend

fifteen

hundred per-

fons, at one hundred piftoles each,

lefs

we

fliall

find

than a million and

five
is

a half of

livres,

(fixty

two thoufand

hun-

dred pounds).

Part of this

money

paid to

the inhabitants and merchants for necelfaries,

and thefe

lofe

no opportunity of impofing

upon
fols

ftrangers.

Water

in

1784, cofl twenty

(ten-pence) a fack.

Another part goes to

Great

the governor and his fabalterns, and the re-

mainder

is

the profit of the convents.

complaints are made of the improper ufe the

Schifmatics

make of

this

money, and

their
theii^

luxury
cells

is

fpoken

of as a great fcandal,

being ornamented with porcelain and

tapeflry,

nay even with

fabres, kandjars

and
the the

other

weapons.
are

Franks
former,

The Armenians and much more modeft; with

are poor,
it is

who

a virtue of necef-

nty

EGYPT AND
fity,
is

SYRIA.
who

313
it

but with the

latter,

are not fo,

prudence.

The
Stet,
all
is

convent of thefe Franks, called Samf

the
principal
religious

houfe

of
are

the Miffions of the

Holy Land which

in the Turkiili empire.

Of thefe

they reckon

feventeen,

compofed of Francifcans of every

nation, but
lian,

who

are

commonly French,

Ita-

and Spanifh.
is

The

general adininiilra-

tion

entrufled to three individuals of thefe'

nations.

But

fo that the fuperior

muft be
the

always a native fubje6t of the Pope;

Agent, a fubjed: of the Catholic king, and

the Vicar,
majefty.
a fubjed: of his

moft Chriflian

Eeah of

thefe

adminiilrators has

a key of the general treafury, that the

money
con-

may
fen t.

not be touched without

common

Each of them

is

affifled

by a fecond,

called a Difcreet: thefe fix

and a Portuguefe

Difcreet,

form together the DireBorVf or

fovereign Chapter,

which governs the con-

vent and the whole order.

The
it

firfl:

founders

had formerly
thefe
for the

fo

balanced
that

the

powers of
-L

adminiflrators

was imDoIlible
Vv^ill

whole

to
all

be governed by the

of
to

one; but as
revolution?,

governments are fubjed;

fome circumflances which happene4

514

O'

RAVELS IN
fince,

pened

few years

have changed the

is

nature of this.

The
years

following

fhort

hiilory of the tranfadion.

About twenty
of fome
adminiftrations,

ago, in

confequence
all

irregularities

incident to

great

the

convent of the Holy

Land

incurred a debt of fix hundred purfes,

fifty

or thirty-one thoufand two hundred and

pounds.

This was

daily encreaiing, the ex-

penditure continuing to exceed the receipts.

It

would have been an

eafy matter to liquidate

this at

one fhroke, as the treafury of the holy

all forts

fepulchre polTeiTes, in diamonds, and

of precious

flones,

in

chalices,

crucifixes,

golden ciboires, (boxes containing the Hoft,)

and other

prefents of Chriftian princes, to the

amount of upwards of a million of livres (above

forty thoufand pounds) but befides the averfion

which the miniflers of temples have, at all times, to alienate facred things, it might be good
policy in theprefent cafe, not to {hew the Turks,

nor even the Chriftians,too great refources.

fituation v/as
flill

The

embarraiiing

and

it

became

more

fo

from the murmurs of the Spanifh

loudly complained of being alone

agent,

who

obliged to fuftain the burthen of the debt,

for,

in

fadt,

he

it

was who furnifhed the moil

'

EGYPT AND SYRIA.

mod
confiderable funds.

315

Under

thefe cir-

cumftances, J. Ribadeira, who occupied this poft, died, and chance beflowed the fuccefiion

on

man, who

fliil

more impatient

than,

himfelf, determined at every hazard to apply

a remedy: and he
his
projecft

fet

about the execution of

zeal, as

with the more

he pro-

mifed him.felf private advantages in the

1^

mehis

dilated

reform.

He

therefore prepared

plan

and addreffing himfelf diredly to th6

king of Spain, by means of his confelTor, reprefented to

**

him
zeal

That the

of the Chriflian princes

" having
**

greatly cooled of late years, their

ancient largefTes to the convent of the

Holy
more

" Land were conliderably diminiilied ;

*' ** **

that his

mod
lars

Faithful Majefly had retrenched

than one half of the forty thoufand dol-

he was accuftomed

to

beftow; that

"
*'
**

his

moft Chrillian Majefly, thinking the

he granted
fufficient,

protection
ly

fcarce-

paid the three thoufand livres he had

**

promifedj that Italy and Germ.any daily

lefs

" became
**

liberal,

and that his Catholic

Majefty was the only fovereign

who

con-

" continued
<*

the benefadions of his predecefalio ilated,

fors,"

He

on the other hand,

that.

3i6
that,
** '* **
*'

T RA V
"
the

E L

N
di-

expences of the eftabliihment

not having fufFered a proportionable

minution, a deficiency had been incurred,

which rendered

it

necellary
loan,

to

have re-

courfe to an annual

that

by

this

" means
**

a confiderable debt
daily encreafing,

was contracted,
in-

which

menaced the
i

**

ftitution

with

final

ruin

that

among

the

"
**
**

caufes of this debt, the pilgrimage of the

to vifit the holy places

" monks who came

that
it

mujQ: be particularly

taken into account,

was

necefiiiry to defray the

expences
fea,

<*

of their journey, their pafiage by

tribute,

their
tv/o

**
*

and board by the convent for

or three years, &c.

That

it

fo

happened,

*^
*

that the greateft part of thefe

monks came
from Porit

from thofe very Hates which had with-

**
'' *^ '*

drawn

their bounties; that

is,

tugal, Germ.any,

and Italy; that

feemed

unreafonable for the king of Spain to pay

for thofe

who

were not his fubjeds, and

abufe to fee the ad-

"
*'

that

it

was a

Hill greater

miniftration of thefe funds entrufted to a

" "
^*

chapter,
foreigners.
this laft

almofl

wholly
petitioner,

compofed
infixing

of

The

on

article,

prayed his Catholic

ma-

jefty to interpofe in the reformation of the

^*

abufes.

EGYPT AND
*'

SYRIA.

317

abufes, and to eftablifli

table

** **

regulations, the

new and more equi^ plan of which he

fubmittcd, &.c."

Thefe reprefentations produced the defired

efFed.

The king
in the

of Spain

iirfl

declared

him-

felf Efpccial ProteSlor

of the order of the Holy

Land,
tioner,

Levant and then named the peti-,

f, fuan Rtbeira, his Royal Agent-, he gave him, in quality of this office, a feal,with the

arms of Spain, and entrufted him with the

fole

management of
that

his gfts, without teing ac-

countable to any other than himfelf.

From

moment,

J. Juan Ribeira,
fignified

biecome a

plenipotentiary,

to

the Confiflory

that henceforward he fliould have a private

treafury, dillin6t

from the

common

fleck;

that the latter fhould continue, as heretofore,

charged with the general expences, and that,

in confequence,
all

the contributions of the

different nations fhould

be paid in there

but

as that of Spain bore

no proportion

to the

others, he fhould apply

no more than what

was adequate

to their refpedive contingents,

retaining the furplus for his private treafury;

that the pilgrimages, henceforth, fhould be at

the expence of the nations from whence they

came, except the fubjeds of France, the care

of

jiS

Travels
whom

in
By
this

of

he took upon himfelf.

regulation, the Pilgrimages, and the greateft

part of the general expences

being limited^

the diiburfements are more proportionable to

the receipts, and they have begun to pay ofF

the debt; but the

monks do not view with

become
in-

a favourable eye the agent thus

dependent

nor can they pardon

him
for,

for

con-

centring in himfelf almofl as

is

much
:

wealth as
in eight

poiTelTed

by the whole order

years, he has received four co?2dutts, or cojitribiitions

from Spain,

eJflimated at eight

hundred
thefc

thoufand dollars.

The money

in

which

contributions are paid, confiding in Spanifh

dollars,
is

ufually put
it

on board a French fhip

Cyprus, under the care

which conveys
of two monks.

to

From

Cyprus, part of thefe

dollars are fent to Conllantinople,

where they

are

fold to

advantage, and

converted into

Turkifli coin.

The
it

other part goes diredly

to Jerufalem,

by the way of Yafa

inhabitants expecfl

where the
anxiety

with

as

much

as the Spaniards look for the galleons.

The

agent pays a
treafury,

certain

fum
it,

into the general

is

and the remainder

he makes of

at his difpofal.
firft,

The

ufes

confiH,

in a

penfion of three thoufand livrcs to the French

Vicar

EGYPT AND
procure
ly,

SYRIA.

319

Vicar and his Difcreet, who, by this means,

him

a majority of fuffrages.

Second-

in

prefents to

the governor, the Mufti,

the Kadi, the Nakib, and other great officers,

whofe

credit

may be of ufe

to

him.

He

has

likewife to fupport the dignity of his office,

which
he has

is

by no means a
and his

trilling

expence; for

his private interpreters,

Hke

a conful,
all

his table

Janifaries

he alone, of

the Franks, mounts on horfeback in Jerufa-

lem, and

is

attended by a body of cavalry 5

is,

in a word,
fir ft

he

next to the Motfillam, the

perfon in the country, and treats with

it,

the powers of

upon a footing of equality.

however, that
fo

We may fuppofe,
fpedt
is

much

re-

not for nothing.

fingle

vifit

to

Djezzar for the church of Nazareth,

coil:

thirty thoufand Pataques, (above fix thoufand

five

hundred and forty- two pounds)

The MaChriftians

hometans of Jerufalem

who

wi(h to profit by

his riches feek his friendfhip.

The

who

folicit

alms from him, dread even his in-

difference.

Happy
and woe

the family he feleds for his

to the

favourites,

man who

has the

misfortune to difpleafe him; for his hatred

can difplay

itfeif either

by open or

indire<5t

means

a hint to the

V/ali enfures the baftijiado.

32d
Fiado,

TItAVELSIN
without the vidim knowing whence
So
it

proceeds.

much power made him

and nothing
lately
biit

dif-*

dain the cuftoiiiary protedliori of the ambaffador of France,

affiiir

fiach

ari

as

he had

with the Pacha of

.that

Damafcus, could have reminded him

this

protcdion

is

more

efficacious than

twenty

thoufand fequins.

His agents, proud of his

fub-

protecTtion, abufe their authority, like all

alterns.

The

Spanifh

monks of Yafa and

Ramla,

treat the Chriflians

who depend on
is

them with
evangelical
:

a rigour

Which

very far from

they excommunicate them in the

open church, ab^fing them by name; they

threaten the

women who

have been indifoblige

creet in talking of

them 3 and

them

to

do public penitence, with a taper

hands; they deliver over the

in their

in tradable to

the Turks, and refufe every fuccour to their

families
:

in lliort,

they offend againfl the

all

cufloms

of the country, and

decorum,

by

vifiting the wives of the Chriflians,

who

jQiould only
tions,

be feen by their very near rela-

and by remaining with them, without

witncffes, in their apartments, under pretence

of confeffing them.
able to conceive
fo

The Turks are not much liberty without

aa

EGYPT AND
an abufe of
the
it.

SYRIA.

321

The Chrlftians, who are of fame opinion, murmur at it, but do no

Experience has
taught

them that the indignation of the RR. PP. (reverend

more.
fathers)
is

attended
It is

with

dreadful

confe-

quences.
years

whifpered, that, fix ot {even

ago, they procured an order from the

Captain Pacha, to cutoff the head of an inhabitant of Yafa

Fortunately

who had given them fome offence. the Aga took upon himfelf to fuf-

pend the execution, and- to undeceive the Admiral

;

but their animoiity has never ceafed to per-

fecute this

man, by every kind of chicanery.

Not long

ago, they folicited fhe Englifh

am-

baffador, under v/hofe protection he has placed

himfelf, to furrcnder

him

to a punifliment,
unjufl: revenge.

which

in faft

was only an

Let us now quit thefe

tion of this country.

details,

which, how-

ever, very properly defcribe the prefent fitua-

When we leave Jerufalem,

attention.

wc

only find three places in this part of the

pachalic

which merit
firft
is

The

Kaha, the ancient Jericho,

fituated fix leagues to the north-eaft of Jeru-

falem, in a plain fix or feven leagues long,

by

three v/ide, around

which

are a

number of
barren

Vo

L.

II.

322

TRAVELS
Here formerly

IN
it

barren mountains, that render

not.

extremely

v/as cultivated the

balm
the

of Mecca.
Hadjes,
this

From
is

the

defcription
fmiilar
like

of
to

flirub,

the

pomegranate- tree, with leaves

rue:
it

thofe of

bears a pulpy

nut,

in

which

is

contained a kernel that yields

juice

the

refinous
prefent

am. At which we call balm or half

is

there

not a plant of
is

it

remaining at Raha;

but another fpecies

to

be found there, called

oil,

Zakkouny which produces a fweet

celebrated for healing wounds.

alfo

This Zakhas thorns

koun

refembles a plum-tree^

it

four inches long,

with leaves like thofe of

the olive-tree, but narrower and greener, and

prickly
at

the end;

its

fruits

is

a kind of

acorn, without a calix,

under the rind of

which is a pulp, and then a nut, the kernel of which yields an oil that the Arabs fell very dear: this is the fole commerce of Raha, which is no more than a ruinous village.

The

fecond place deierving notice,

is

-B^/V-

el-lahm, or

Bethlehem,

fo

celebrated in the
village, fituated

hiflory of Chriftianity.

This

two leagues fouth-eaft of Jerufalem, is feated on an eminence, in a country full of hills and
vallies.


Vallies,

GYF

AND

SYRIA.

jij

and might be rendered very agree-

able.
trid:s
;

The

foil is

the bell in all

thefe dif-

fruits, vines, olives,

v^ell
;

and fefamum fucbut, as

is
is

ceed here extremely

every

the cafe

where

elfe,

cultivation
fix

wanting.
in this

They reckon about

village
iion,
fill

hundred men

capable of bearing arms upon occathis

and

often occurs, fometimes to re-

the Pacha, fometimes to

make war with

the adjoining villages, and fometimes in con-

fequence of inteftine dilfentions*

lix

Of

thele

hundred men, about one hundred are

Latin Chriftians,
dent on
the
their

who

have a Vicar depen-

great

convent of Jcrufalem.
in the

Formerly

whole trade confilled

but
the

manufacture
fathers not

of beads;

reverend

being able to find a

fale for all

they could furnilh, they have refumed the

cultivation of their lands
*

They make

a white

wine, which juftilies the former celebrity of the

wines of Judea, but

it

has the bad property

neceflity of uniting

of being very heady.

for their

The

common

defence prevails over their

religious differences,

and makes the Chrillians

live here in tolerable

harmony wdth
2

the

Maparty

hometans, their fellow citizens. Both are of the

324

TRAVELS
at

IN
its

party Yamani, which, with

oppofite called

Kaifi, divides all Paleftine into

two

factions,

perpetually
thefe
tried,
all

variance.

The

courage of

peafants,

which has been frequently

has rendered them formidable through

that country.

The third and

laft

place of note

is

Habroun^

or Hebron, feven leagues to the fouth of Beth-

lehem; the Arabs have no other name for

this village than El-kalil[b), the well beloved^

which is the epithet they ufually apply tOx^braham, whofe Sepulchral grotto they ftill fhew. Habroun is feated at the foot of an eminence^ on which are fome wretched ruins, the mifihapen remains of an ancient
adjacent country
is

caflle.

The

a fort of oblong hollow,

in

five or lix leagues

length, and not dif-

agreeably varied by rocky hillocks, groves of

fir-trees,

Hunted oaks, and a few plantations

of vines and olive-trees.

Thefe vineyards

are not cultivated with a view to

the inhabitants being fiich

make wine, zealous Maho-

metans as not
live

to

permit any Chriftians to

they are only of vSq to

among them:
{'')

The

is

here

xxd:.^

for the Spanifii

hu.
procure

EGYPT AND
procure dried
ralfins

SYRIA.

p^

which

are badly pi-cpared,

though the grapes

are of an excellent kind.

The peafants
is

cultivate cotton, likewife,

at

which

fpun by their wives, and fold

Jerufalem

and Gaza.
nufacflories,

They have
the
Kali

alfo

fome foap ma-

for

which

is

fclJ

them by the Bedouins, and

a very ancient

glafs-houfe, the only one in Syria.

They

make

there

great

quantity of coloured

rings, bracelets for

the wrifls and legs, and

(<:),

for the arms above the elbows

befides a

variety of other trinkets, w^hich are fent even

to Conllantinople.

In confequence of thefe
is

manufadures, Habroun
ful village

the moil powderis

in all this quarter, and

able to

arm

eig-ht or

nine hundred men,

who

adhere

to the fadiion Kaili, and are the perpetual ene-

mies of the people of Bethlehem. This difcord,

which has
(c)

prevailed throughout the country,

Thefe rings are ofen more than an inch

;

in diait

meter

they are pafled on the arms of children, and

often happens, as I

have frequently feen, that the arm

ring, a ridge of flefh
is
is

growing bigger than the

above and below,

formed

fo that the ring,

off,

buried in a deep
this
is

hollow and cannot be got

as a beauty.

and

confidered

from

TRAVELS
from the
cefTantly
earlieft

IN
peafants are inother's
fefa-

times of the Arabs caufes a

perpetual civil war.

The

making inroads on each

their

lands,

deilroying

corn,

dourra,

mum,

and

olive-trees,

and carrying off

their

fheep, goats, and camels.

The Turks, who

in repreffing fimi-

are every

where negligent

lar difcorders, are the lefs

attentive to
is

them

here, fince their authority

very precarious;

the Bedouins, whofe camps occupy the level

country, are continually at open hoflilities

with them, of which the peafants

felves to refift their authority, or

avail

them-

do mifchief

to each other, according to the blind caprice

of

their

ignorance, or

the

interefl

of the
is

moment.
ftill

Hence

arifes

an anarchy, which

more

dreadful than the defpotifm

which

prevails

elfewhere, while the mutual devaf-

tations of the contending parties render the

appearance

of this

part

of

Syria

more

wretched than that of any other.

Proceeding from Hebron towards the wefl,

wc

arrive, after five

hours journey, at fome

fide,

eminences, which, on this

form the

laft

branch of the mountains of Judea.

There

the traveller, wearied v/ith the rugged coun^

tiy

EGYPT AND
try

SYRIA.
bent ith
his

327

he has quitted, views with pleafure the

vail plain

which extends
that
lies

feet,
is

to the lea

before him.

This

the

plain which, under the

Palelline, terminates,

name of

Falajlm, or

on

this iide, the

country
coiv?

of

Syria,

and forms
it

the laft divilion

cerning which

remains ior

me

to fpeak.

c n k

1* I

328

TRAVELS
C

H A
Of

P.

XXXI.

Falejiine,

i:^ALESTiNE,

in its

prefent flate, comDre-*

hends the whole country included between

the Mediterranean to the wxft, the chain of

mountains to the

eaft,

and two

lines,

one
the

drav/n to the fouth, by

Kan Younes, and

is

other to the north,

between Kaifaria and the rialmofl enri-

vulet of Yafa. This whole tra6t

tirely a level plain,

without either river or

vulet in fummer, but watered by feveral torrents in winter. Notwithftanding this drynefs

the
for

foil is

good, and may even be termed

the winter rains do not

fertile,

when
is

fail,

every

thing fprings up in abundance ; and the earth,

which

black

and

fat,

retains

moiflure

fufiicient for the

growth of grain and vegefummer.

tables during the

More dourra
beans,
are

fefa-

mum,
They

water-melgns, and

fown

here than in any other part of the country.

alfo
raife

cotton, barley, and wheat;

latter

but though the

lefs cultivated,

be moil efteemed,

it is

for fear of too

much

inviting

the avarice of the Turkilh Governors, and the

r

rapacity

EGYPT AND
rapacity of the Arabs.

SYRIA.
is

325 in-

This country
plundered
very

deed more frequently

other in
Syria,

than

any
open

for being

proper for
it lies

cavalry, and adjacent to the Defer t,

to the Arabs, v^ho are far from

fatisfied

with
it

the mountains

they have long difjjuted

it,

with every power eftablifhed in

and have

fucceeded fo far as to obtain the concefiion

of

certain

places,

on

paying

tribute,

from whence they

render
it

infeft

the roads, fo as to

unfafe to travel from

Gaza

to Acre,

They might even have

polTeffion of
it,

obtained the entire

had they known

flrengthj

how
but,

to avail

themfelves of their

divided

among

themfelves by jarring interefls, and fa-

mily quarrels, they turn thofe weapons on each

other which they fhould employ again ft the

common enemy, and

their difregard

are at once enfeebled

by

good order and government, and impoveriflied by their fpirit of raof

all

pacity.
Palefline,
as I

have

faid, is a

diftrid: in^
it

dependent of every Pachalic.

has Governors of its own,

Sometimes
refide at
it
is

who

Gaza

under the

title

of Pachas^ but

ufually,

as at prefent,

divided into three appanages,

or Melkana, viz.

Yafa,

Loudd, and Gaza.

The

330

TRAVELS

IN
received

1
He
Ramla,

The

former be^ :ngs to the Walda, or Sultana

Mother,
and

ihe Captain Pacha has

a

the two others as a recompence for his fervices,

reward for the head of Daher.

farms them to an Aga,

who

refides at

and pays him two hundred and fifteen putfes for them, viz. one hundred and eighty for

Gaza and Ramla, and

Yafa
is

thu'ty-five for

Loudd.

held by another Aga,

who pays one

hundred and twenty purfes to the Sultana. For this he receives the whole miri and polltax of the town, and fome adjacent villages;
.

but the chief part of

his revenue arifes

all

from

the cuftom-houfe, as he receives

ties

the du-

on imports and exports.

is

Thefe are pretthe port at

ty confiderable, fince Yafa

which

the rice fent from Damietta to Jeruialem, the

merchandife for a fmall French fadtory at

Ramla, and the commodities from the

vari-

ous ports on the coaft of Syria are landed.

Here

alfo the pilgrims

from the Morea and

Conflantinople arrive ^ and here the fpun cottons of Paleftine, and other articles of trade,

conveyed, by

fea,

along the coafl, are fliipped.

maintains, are only thirty

The

forces this

Aga

muiketeers, horfe and foot,

who fcarcely fufiice

as

EGYPT AND
as a

SYRIA.

331

guard to two wretched gates, and to keep

off the Arabs.

As

a fea-port, or place of flrength, Yafa

;

is

not to be mentioned

but

it is

capable of be-

coming one of the moll important on the coafl,

on account of two fprings of frefh water which
are within
its

walls,
it

on the

fea fhore.

Thefe

fprings enabled
liflance
it

to

make

the obflinate re-

did in the late wars.

The

port,

which

is

formed by a

pier,

and

at prefent

choaked up, might be cleared out, and made

to contain twenty vefTels of three

hundred

tons burthen each.

At

prefent fhips are obli-

ged to

caft

anchor out

at fea, at near a league's

;

diflance

from the fhore

f^fe,

where they

are

by

no means

the bottom being a bank of

as far as

rock and coral, which extends

Gaza.

Before the two late fieges, this was one of

the moffc agreeable towns on the coafl.
Its

environs were one continued foreft of orange

and lemon
here
firil

trees,

citrons

and palms, which

begin to bear good fruit fdj.

The

country beyond abounded in olive-trees, as

(d)

We

meet with fome

after

having palTed Acre, but

$heir fruit ripens with diflicultj.

large

334

TRAVELSIN
5

large as walnut trees

but the

Mamlouks
make
fires,

having cut them

all

down

for the pleafare

they take in deftroying,

or to

Yafa has

loil its greateft

convenience and orto de-

nament
prive
it

fortunately

it

was impoffible
water
fuckers,

of the rivulets that

its

gar-

dens, and nourifh the

young

which
the vil-

have already begun

to ilioot.

Three leagues
polis,

to the eaft of

Yafa

is

lage of Lotidd, the ancient Lydday and Diof-

place

lately ravaged

by

fire

and

fword would have

of
this village.

precifely the appearance

From

the huts of the inhais

bitants to the Serai, or palace of the Aga,

one vail heap of

rubbifli
is

and

ruins.

weekly market, however,

held at Loudd, to

which the

peafants of the environs bring their

fale.

fpun cotton for

The poor

Chriflians

w^ho dwell here, fliew, with great veneration,

the ruins

of the church of
fit

St. Peter,

and

make

llrangers

down on

a column, which^

as they fay, that Saint once relied on.

They
is

point out the place where he preached, where

he prayed, &c.
of fuch
a

The whole
It is

country

full
ftir

traditions.

impolfible to
traces

Hep without being Ihewn the

of fome

apoftle,

fome martyr, or fome virgin; but

what

EGYPT AND
what
credit

SYRIA.
tliefe

333

can be due to

traditions,

when

experience proves that the hiftory of

Ali Bey and

uncertain
?

Daher

is

already difputed and

One

third of a league to the fouthward

of

Loudd, along a road lined with nopals, ftands

Ramla, the ancient Arimathea.
is

This town

almoil in as ruinous a flate as

Loudd

itfelf.

We meet with
boundaries
;

nothing but rubbifh within

its

the

Aga of Gaza
**

refidcs

here in

Serai,

the floors and walls

of which are

tumbling down.

Why,"
**

faid I,

one day, to
Yes," re-

one of his Sub-Agas,

''repair
his

does he not at leaft

own apartment?"
if

replied he,
*'
**

" but

another fhould next year

obtain his place,

the expence ?"

who would

repay

him

He
and

maintains about one hundred horfemen,

as

many Barbary
is

foldiers,

who

are

lodged in an old Chriilian church, the nave

of which

ufed as a flable, and in an ancient

is

kan, which
fcorpions.

difputed with

them by the
is

The

adjacent country

planted

with

lofty olive trees, difpofed in quincunces.

The

greateil part of
trees

them
;

are as large as the

walnut

of France
age,

but they are daily pethe

ravages

rifhing through

of contending

^34

TRAV

E L

N
mlU
when
a pea-

tending fadions, anii even from fecret

chief; for, in thefe countries,
fan t

would revenge himfelf of his enemy, he comes by night, and faws or cuts his trees
and the wound, which
takes care to cover, draining off the fap
ilTue,

clofe to the ground,

he

like an
dies.

the

olive

tree languiihes

and

Amidfl: thefe plantations,

we

meet, at

every flep, with dry wells, ciflerns fallen in,

and
in^

vafl vaulted refervoirs,

ancient times, this

which prove that, town mufl have been

in

upwards of a league and a half

ference.

circum-

At

prefent

it

fcarcely contains
little
is

hundred

families.

The

two land which is

the property of

cultivated,

by a few of them,

the Mufti, and two or three perfons related to

him.

The reft

content themfelves with ipinis

ning cotton, which

chiefly purchafed

by

two French houfes

none
there

eftablifhed there.

They

are the laft in this part of Syria, there being

either at Jerufalem or Yafa.
is

alfo a

At Ramla foap manufactory, which is alEgypt.

I mufl:

moft
to

all fent into

not forget

mention that the Aga built here, in 1784, the only windmill I have feen in Syria or Egypt, though they are
faid to

have been
It

ori-

ginally invented in thefe countries.

was

completed

tGYPT AND
completed
re(5tion

SYRIA.

3,^

after the plan,

and under the dl*

of a Venetian carpenter. only remarkable antiquity at

The
is

Ramla
appears

the minaret of a ruined

mofque on the road

it

to Yafa.

By an Arabic

infcription

to have been built by Saif-el-din, Sultan of

Egypt.
lofty,

From

the fummit, which

is

very

the eye follows the

whole chain of
and
itfelf

mountains, which begins at Nablous,

fkirting

the

plain,

lofes

toward the

fouth.

In this plain,

between Ramla and

villages,

Gaza, we meet with a number of

their inhabitants, exhibit every

badly built, of dried mud, and which, like

mark of poThe houfes, on verty and wretchednefs. a nearer view, are only fo many huts, fometimes detached, and fometimes ranged in the

form of

cells

around a court-yard, inclofed

by

mud

wall.

The women have

m?y

there, as

elfewhere, feparate apartments.

In winter,

they and their cattle

ther,

be faid to live togeallotted

the part of the dwelling

to

themfelves being only raifed two feet above

that in

which they lodge

their beafls.

The

peafants are by this means kept

out burning

warm, withwood 5 and oeconomy indifpenli-

ble in a country abfolutely deftitute of fuel.

As

336

TRAVLLSIN
for the
fire

As

neceiTary for

culinary pur-

pofes,

they

cakes,

make it of dung kneaded into which they dry in the fun, expofing

them to its rays on the walls of their huts. In fummer their lodging is more airy, but
all

their

furniture confifl in a fingle mat,

and a pitcher for drinking.

thefe villages are

The

environs of

fown

at,

the proper feafon,

all

with
a

grain,

and water melons;

the reft

is

defert,

and abandoned to

the

Bedouin

Arabs,
flep

who feed their flocks on it. At every we meet with ruins of towers, dunand
caflles

geons,

with

foffis,

and fome-

times a garrifon, confifting of the lieutenant

of an Aga, and two or three Barbary

diers,

fol-

with nothing but a

fhirt

and a muHiet;

but more frequently they are inhabited by

jackals, owls

and fcorpions.
one of the prin-

Among the inhabited places

cipal
is

the village of Pvlefmia, four leagues

to

from Ramla, on the road

Gaza, which

furniihes a great deal of fpun cotton.

diftance of a (hort league to the eaft,

At
is

the

a de-

tached eminence, called for that reafon /Tell.

It
is

the capital of the tribe of

Wa-

hJdia,

one of the Shaiks of vvhich, named

Bakir,

was aiTafnnated three

years ago

by the

Aga

EGYPT AND
Aga of Gaz,
many
fuch
at

SYRIA.
this hill are

337

an entertainment to which

he had invited him.

On

found

remains of habitations
as are to

and

caverns,

be met with

in the fortifica-

tions of the middle ages.

This muft have

been
its

at all

times a favourite fituation, from

fteepnefs,

and the fpring which

channel throur:h O
itfelf

is

at the
it

bottom.
liows,
is

The

which

the fame that lofes

near Aflca-

lon (Afcalon.)

To

the eaft, the

foil is

roCky,

but covered with fcattered

other
trees.

firs,

olives,

and

Bait-djibrim,
is

the

Betha-Ga-

bris of Antiquity

an inhabited village not

quite three quarters of a league to the fouth-

ward.

Seven hours journey from thence, tois

ward the fbuth-weft

neighbourhood an

another villags of the

its

Bedouins, called the Hefi, which has in

artificial

fquare

hill,
fifty

above
wide,

feventy feet high, one hundred and

and two hundred long.

it has"

The whole
its

afcent to
ftill

been paved, and on

fummit we

find the remains of a very ftrong citadel.

As we approach

the fea, three leagues

to

from

Ramla, on the road

Gaza,

is

Yabna, the

ancient Jamnia. This village has nothing re-

markable, but afadlitious eminence like that of

Hefi, and a rivulet, the only one in thefe diilri<fls

Vol. H.

which

338

T R

A V E L
in

N
Its

which does not dry up

coLirfe
is it

luminer.

whole

not more than a league and a half.

reaches the fea,
it

Before

forms a morafs called

Roubin, where the country people had begun

a plantation of fugar canes,

which made the

tlie fe-

mod

promifnig appearance; but, after

cond crop, the Aga demanded a contribution,

which compelled them

to defert

it.

Leaving Yabna, we meet

fiiccefiively

with

various ruins, the moft confiderable of

are at

which

Ezdoud, the ancient Azotus, famous

for
its

at prefent

fcorpions.

This town,

fo

powerful
proofs

under the Philiflines, affords no

its

of

ancient importance.

Three

leagues from

Ezdoud

is

the village of Elin

Majdal, where they fpin the fnell cottons

Palefline,

which, however, are very

is

coarfe.

On

the rijht
are

Azkalan,

whofe deferted

ruins

every day removing farther from

the fea, by

which
is

it

formerly was waflied.

This whole coaft

infomuch,
that

daily

accumulating fands,
places

many

which

it

is

known
Gaza
is

anciently were fea ports, are

:

now

four

or five hundred r)aces within land an example.

of this

Gaza, called by the Arabs Razzn, with

a ilrong guttural pronunciation of the
r,
is

compofed

EGYPT AND
compofcd of three
villages,

SYRIA.
is

339

one of which,
fituated be-

under the name of the Cajlk,

tween the two others, on an inconiiderable

eminence.

This

caftle,

wliich might have

it

been flrong for the

built,
is

time in which

v/as

now

nothing but a heap of rubbiili.

The
it,

Serai of the

Aga,

w^liich

makes

a part of

is
it

in as ruinous a fliate as that

of Ram.la
cxtenfive
at

but

has the advantage of a

rrioii

profped:.

From

its

walls,
it

we view
is

once

the

fea,

from which

feparated by a

fandy beach, a quarter of a league wide, and

the country,

whole date

trees,

ar;d

flat

a:^d

marked

afpe(fl:,

as far as the eye

can difcern, rein this lati-

minds us of Egypt; and,

tude, the
foil

in facl,

and climate both appear to be

truly Arabian.

The
;

heats,

the drought,
as

tlie

winds and the dews, are the iame

banks of the Nile
the

on the

and the inhabitants have

manners, and ac-

complexion,

feature,

cent of the Egyptians, rather than thofe of

the Syrians.

The fituation of Gaza, by fitting medium of communication between

nations, has rendered
it

it

for the

thefe

two
mar-

at all times a

town of
was formerlv

fome importance.

The

ruins of white

ble fometinics found there,

prove

it

MO
mcrly
\vas
it

TRAVELS
tlic

IN
preference.
is

abode of luxury and opulence; nbr

this

unworthy of

The
ex-

black

foil

of the furrounding country

fertile,

tremely

and the gardens,

flill

watered

by
art,

linipid

flrean^s,

produce,

without

pon^cgranates,

oranges, exquifite dates,

in great requeft,

and ranunculus roots

at Conilantinople.
in tlie general

even

It has,
;

however,

fliared

deftrudion
title

and, notwithfland-

ing
it

its
is

proud

of the capital of Paleftine,

a dcfencelefs
village,

no

more than

peopled by at
bitants.

mod
;

only two thoufand inha-

The manufacture

of cottons

is

their

principal fapport

and, as they have the ex-

clufive fupply of the peafants and Bedouins

of the neighbourhood, they may keep going

about
live

iiundred looms.

There

are like-

wife two or three foap inanufadtories.

article of afhes, or ^a//s,

The

was formerly a conBedouins,

fiderable

commerce.

The

who

TM-ocurcd thefe allies,

by ftmply burning the

plants of the defert, fold

rate;

them

at a reafonable

but fmce the

Aga
are

has m.onopolized this

commodity,
Avith
it

the Arabs,

compelled

to

part

at his price,
it
-J

no longer anxious to

collect

and the inhabitants, conftrained to

purchafe at his pleaiure, negled making foap.

Thefe

EGYPT
Thefe
allies,

AN D

YR

A.

34.1

however, are an objed: worthy of

quaiitity of alkali they

attention,

from the

contain.

A branch
ravans

of commerce more advantageous

to the people of

Gaza,

is

furnifhed by the ca-

which

pafs

and repafs between Egypt

provifions

and

Syria.

The

they are obliged

to take for their four days journey in the dcfert

produce a confiderable demand for their

oils,

flour,

dates,

and

other

necellaries.

Sometimes they correfpond with Suez, on

the arrival or departure of the Dejedda
as
fieet,

rhey

are

able

to

reach that

place

in

three long days journey.

They

fit

out, like-

wife, every year, a great caravan,

to to

which goes

meet the pilgrims of Mecca, and conveys

them the convoy

or Dejerda of Paleftine,
different

and fupplies of various kinds, with

refrefliments.

They meet them

at

Maon,
of
alfo

four days journey to the fouth-fouth-eafl of

Gaza, and one

day's journey to the north

to

Akaba, on the road

Damafcus.

They
;

purchafe the plunder of the

article

Bedouins

an

thefe

which would be a Peru to them, were accidents more frequent. It is impof-

fible to afcertain the profits they

made by the

plunder of the great caravan in 1757.

Two
thirds

342

TRAVELS
of which
tlie

thirds of

upwards of twenty thoufjnd camel

Hadj, or caravan of pil-

leads,

grims, was compofed, were brought to Gaza.

Tiie ignorant and famifhed Bedouins,

who

kiiow no

val'je in

the finefr

ftufis,

but as

they ferve to cover them, fold their cadimire,

fhawls, callicoes,
ilaffs,

muflins,

iirfakes,

Perfian
piaftres.

coffee

and gums, for a few

\Vc may judge from the following

tants of the dcferts.

ftory,

of

the ignorance and imiplicity of thefe inhabi-

Bedouin of x^naza
his

having found,

amongft

booty,

feveral

bags of fine pearls, took them for doura, and

had them boded

to eat

them

but feeing that

they did not foften, was

on the point of

throwing them away, when an inhabitant f

Gaza gave him

bonnet of Faz.
in

in

exchange for them a red

hmilar incident happened

A
de

17^9, at the time of the pillage of the cara-

van which

M.

St.

Germain accompanied
in

and but the other day,

1784, the caravan

cf Barbary, conlifting of upwards of three

ihoufand cam.els, v/as likewife pillaged, and the

quantity of coffee difperfed by the Bedouins

throughout Palefline,
one half of what

was

fo

great,
fall

as

to

caufe the price of that article to

10
it

fuddenly
-,

w^as

before

and

it

would

EGYPT AND SYRIA

would have
fallen
dill

343

more,
it,

had not the

Aga
pel

prohibited the falc of

in order to
it

com-

the Bedouins to deliver

all

into his

hands.
fair

monopoly of

this fort in the af-

of 1779, produced him more than eighty Adding thefe cafaalties thoufand piaftres.
to his other extortions^ to the miri,

the cuf-

toms, the twelve hundred camel loads, v^'hich

he purloins from the three thoujfmd he

furnifli for the ?vlecca

lliould

convoy, he

raifes,

one

year with another, a revenue of full double

the hundred and eighty purfes he pays for
his farm.

Beyond Gaza
muil
not,

there are only deferts.

It

however, be underflood, that the

;

country becomes fuddenly uninhabitable

jflill

we

continue, for a day's journey, along the

to

fea coaft,

meet with fome cultivated fpots

and

villages.
in

Such

is

Kan-younes, a

fort

of

caflle,

which the Mamlouks keep

Such

a garri-

fon of twelve men.

alfo is El-Arifli,

the lafl place where water,

is

which can be drank,

at Salahia in

to

be found, until you arrive

is

Egypt. El-Arifh

three quarters of a league

is

from the
that coaft.
call,

fea,

in

a fandy country, as
defert,

all

Returning to the
v/ith other flrips

by the

we meet

of cultivable'
land.

344

TRAVELS
where
a
to fettle

IN
Mecca. Thefe are

land, as far as the road to

little vallies,

few peafants have been

tempted

by the waters, which col-

led: at the

time of the winter rains, and by

fome

wells.

They

cultivate

palm-trees

and doura, under the protection, or rather

expofed to the rapine, of the Arabs.
peafants, feparated

Thefe

from the

reft

of mankind,

are

half favages,

and more ignorant and

In-

wretched than the Bedouins themfdves.

capable of leaving
the
foil

they cultivate,

they live in perpetual dread of lofing the fruit

of their labours.

No

fooner have they ga-

thered in their harveft, than they haflen to

fecret
it

in private places,

and

retire

among
Sea.
tra-,

the rocks

which bolder on the Dead

vifited

This country has not been

veller,
for,

by any

but

it

well merits fuch an attention

from the reports of the Arabs of Bakir,

and the inhabitants of Gaza,

who

frequently

go to Maan, and Karak, on the road of the

pilgrims, there
is,

to thefouth-eaft of

thelake

Afphaltites, within three days journey, up-

wards of
ferted.

thirty ruined towns, abfolutely de-

Several of

them have

large edifices

with columns which

may have

belonged to

ancient temples, oratleafl to Greek churches.

Thr

YT

AND
in;

VR

A,

345

The Arabs
fold
their

fometlmcs nrake ufe of them to

cattle

hut

general

avoid

them, on account

of tlie

enormous fcorpions

with which they

fvvarm..

We cannot

be fur-

prifed at thefe traces of ancient population,

when we

recoiled: that this

was the country

of the Nabatheans, the moil: powerful of the Arabs; and of the Idumeans, who,
at

the

time of the deftruilion of Jerufalem, were al-

mofc

as

numerous

as the

Jews, as appears
us, that

from Jofephus, who informs

iirfl

on the
a2:ainll:

rumour of the march of Titus

and threw
defence.

Jerufalem, thirty thoufand Idumeans infrantly

aiTemibled,
city for
its

themfelves into that

It

appears that, befides

the

advantage of being
thefe

under

tolerably

good governm.ent,
and India,
population.

dillrid:s

enjoyed a

confiderable fliare of the

commerce of Arabia
and
as that, as far

Vvdiich increafed their induflry

V/e know

back

the time of Solomon, the cities oi AtJiGum-

Gaber

(Efion-Geber),

and

Allah

(Eloth)

were highly frequented marts.

Thefe towns

were fituated on the adjacent gulph of the

Red

Sea,

where we
its

flill

find the latter yet

in

retaining

name, and perhaps the former

that of El-Akaba, or the Ejid (of the Sea).

Thefe

346

T R
as

A V E L

Thefe two places

Bedouins, but

are in the pofTeirion of the

they have no fliipplng, and

carry on no kind oi commerce, they do not in-

habit them.

The pilgrimiS of Cairo however reis

port that there

atl-Akaba

wretched

fort,

with

Turkifh garrifon, and good water; an

advantage truly valuable in thefe countries.

The
a

Idumeans, fi'om

whom the Jews only took their

them

ports at intervals, mufc have found in

great fource of wealth and population. It event

appears, that they rivalled the Tyrians,

alfo polfeued a

who
is

town, the name of which

unknovv^n, on the coafc of Hedjaz, in the defert

of Tih, and the city of Faran, and withit

out doubt El-Tor, which ferved

by way

of port.

From

this place the caravans

might

reach Paleftine and Judea in eight or ten days.

This route, which

Suez to Cairo,
is

is

longer than that from

infinitely fliorter

than

that

from AleDpo
and

to Ballora,

which

requires five
in the
heft,

thirty or forty days,

and poflibly

prefent flate of things

if

would be the
fliould

the paffage by

Egypt

remain entire-

ly ihut up.
fary,

Nothing more v/ouid be necef-

than to
treaties

make an agreement with

with

the

Arabs,

whom

are infinitely

more

fecure than with the

Mamlouks.

The

EGYPT AND
The
duced
defert
is

SYRIA.
I

347
juH:

of Tih,
that into

Vv'jilch

have
IV'Iofes

mentioned,

which
them

con-

the Jews, and kept

to
initiate

for a
tlie

whole
art of

generation,

them

in

war, and
herds
into

transform a
a

multitude of flien-

nation

of conquerors.

The

name El-Tib feems to have a reference to

their hiflory, as
it

figniRes

the Country of
this

Wandering; but we mull not imagine

to be in
prefent inhabitants are foreigners,
in all

confequence of tradition, fmce the

and

men

countries find

it

dithcult to recur even

to their grandfathers; the

name of El-tih has

tlie

been oiven to this trad: by

reading the

Arabs from
the Koran;

Hebrew books and

it

they alfo call

Barr-el-tour-Sina, or

Coun-

try of IVIount-Sinai.

This

defert,

which

is tlie

boundary of Syiia

to the fouth, extends itfclf in the

form of a

peninfula between the two gulphs of the Sea

;

Red

that of Suez to the well:, and that of Elto the eaft.

Its

Akaba
fpace
tains like
is

breadth

is

ordinarily

thirty leagues,

and its length feventy. This great

filled

almoft entirely

by barren mounof calcareous

which join thofeof Syria, on the north, and,

confift almofl v/holly
as

them,
;

ilone

but

we advance

to

the fouthward,

they

34^

T R A V
only enormous
it

E L

N
fione.

they become granitous, and Sinai and Horeb

are

mafles

of that

Hence

was

tlie

ancients called this country

Arabia Petrea.

The

foil in

general

is

a dry

gravel, producing nothing but thorny acacias,

tamariflcs,
firs,

and a few fcattered fhrubs.

Springs are very rare, and the few

we meet
as
brackifli

with are fometimesfulphureous and thermal,

at

Hammam-Faraoun,
as at

at

others

and difagreeable,
this
faline

El Naba oppofite Suez;

throughout the
foflil fait

quality

prevails

country, and there are mines of

in

the northern parts.

In fome of the vallies,

however, the

foil

becoming

better,

as

it

is

formed of the earth walhed from the rocks,

is

cultivable after the winter rains, and

filled
fertile.

may

almofh be

Such

is

the vale of

Djirandel, in
trees.

which
alfo

there are even groves of

is

Such

the

vale

of Faran,

v/here the Bedouins fay there are ruins,

which

can be no other than thofe of the ancient

city of that

name.

In former
this

times every

advantage was

made of

country

that

could be obtained from

[e)

it [e),

bur

at prefent,

M.

Nicbuhr difcovcred, on

a mountain,

fome tombs

with hieroglyphics, which

may

induce us to believe the

Egyptians had made fettlcments in thefe countries.

abandoned

EGYPT AND
it

SYRIA.

34^

abandoned to nature, or rather to barbariim,

produces nothing but wild herbs.
Yet,

with fuch fcanty provifion,

fifls

this Defert Tub-

three tribes of Bedouins, coniiiling

live or fix

of

about

thoufand Arabs, difperfed in

are called

various parts.

They

by the

gejieral

name of Tawara, or Arabs of Tor, known and moil frequented place

country.
the
It is lituated

the beft
in

the

on the

eaftern fide of

branch of Suez, in a fandy and low

as is all this coafl.
Its

ground,

whole merit
fiiippine,

cenfiils in a pretty

good road

for

and water which may be drank; the Arabs

alfo bring
really

fome thither from

Sinai,

which

is

good.

provilions

The iliips of Suez here when they fail

lay in their
to

Djedda.

There
that

is

nothing further to notice except

we

find here a
fort

few palm-trees, the ruins

without a garrifon,
a

of a wretched

fmall Greek convent, and fome huts of poor

Arabs,

who

live

on

fifh,

and ferve as

lailors

for wages.

There
villages

are alfo, to the fouthward,

two fmall

of Greeks,

who

are equally

poor and miferablc.

As
it is

for the

^ubfiflence

of the three
goats,

tribes,

derived from their

camels,

fome acacia

gums

fold

in

350

T R A V

E L

N
tlie

Egypt, and their robberies on

Suez, Gaza, and 'Mecca.

roads of

Thefe Arabs have no mares,

tribes,

like the otlier

or at h:ii\ they bring up very

few;

but they fupp]y the want of them by a fort of camel, which they
call

Hedji/ia,

This

animal

is

of the fame fliape with the

comis

mon
The
and

camel, with this difference, that he

llender,

made much more

meafures
his

and moves quicker.

foot pace,

ordinary camel only goes a

fteps
fo

flowly, that

he

hardly advances thirty- fix hundred yards an

hour;

the Hedjina, on the contrary, trots at

pleafure, and,
eafily goes

from the length of

leagues an hour.

his

paces,

tVv'o

The

great

advantage of

this

animal

is

to be able to

con-

tinue this pace thirty or forty hours fucceffively,

almoll:

without

reft,
is

and

without

eating

or drinking: he

couriers,

and

for

made ufe of by long journeys which require

ftart

expedition;

if

he has once got the

fvviftefl:

by

four hours, the

Arabian mare never

can overtake him; but one mufl be accuf-

tomed

to his pace, otherwife his jolting

ilays tlie {k\n

moti-

on foon
rider,

and difables the beft

they

in

fpite

of the culliions with v/hich

EGYPT AND
tliey

SYRIA.
that

351

flufF the

faddle.

Ail

lieard of the fwiftnefs of the

we have Dromedary, may

be applied to this animal.

only one bunch; nor do

He

has however
out of five
I

I recollecl,

and twenty of thirty thouland camels,

have fcen
in

may-

Syria

and Egypt, ever

tv^'o.

to

have

obferved a fmgle one with

But the moft confidcrable

Bedouins of Tor
arife

profits of the
pilg-rima^-e

from the

of the Greeks to the convent of Mount Sinai,

The
relics

fchifmatics have fo

much

fiith
tliey

in

the

of faint Catherine, which

fiy are

d^pofited there, that they doubt of their fal-

vation if they have not vihtcid

them

at

leail:

once

in their lives.

They

repair thither even

as far as
ple.

from the Morea, and Confcantino-

The rendezvous is at Cairo, VvTicre the monks of Mount Sinai have correfDondents who treat with the Arabs for a convoy. The
i.

ordinary price

is

twenty- c.e;h; pataques, (fx

fix-pence) each
pafTenger,
arrival at

pounds two

an.d

exclufive of provifions.

On

their

the convent, the Greeks perform their devotions, vifit the church, kifs the relics and

images,

mount on
fteps

their knees
hill

more than one

the value of

hundred

of the

of Mofes, and con-

clude by making an olTering,

which

35^

TRA\'ELS IN
is

which
than

not iixed, but rarely amounts to

lefs

fifty

pataques
at

/).

Except

the

time

of thefe

vifitations,

which only
vent
is

are

made once

a year, this

con-

the m^ofl defert and favage abode in

nature.

The

adjacent country

is

nothing but

a pile
Sinai,

of rugged and naked rocks.

at the foot

Mount
is

of which

it

is

feated,

peak of granite which fcems to overwhelm

it.

The

houfi

is

fort

of fquare prifon,
only

whofe

lofty

walls

have

one

win-

dow,

which, though very high up, ferves

likewife by

way of door;

for, to enter this

convent, you mufh get into a baflcet,

the

which
Tliis

monks

leave fufpended at
hoiil:

the

window,

and occafionally

up with

ropes.

precaution arifes from their fear of the Arabs,

who

misrht force the convent if the ufual

entrance was by a door: they never open the

(/")

To

tbcfe pilgrims \vc

aiics,

muft attribute the infcriptions

c:imclsj&c. engraven on thefe
the

and clumfy figures of

rocks, which

have fio:n thence acquired

or

name

cf

Djehel Mokaitah^

written

Mountain.

Mr.

Worthy

Montague^

who

travched a great deal in thele countries,

is

and carefully examined thefe infcriptions,

of this opinion

M.

Caur dc GrhfUn^ author of Le Monde

c:idei;vcuring to difcover

Priirnt:/^ has lolt

his labour, in

fomc :nyflcrious

mcanin.:.

only

EGYPT AND
only one there
bifhop, at
{hut.
all
is,

SYRIA.
vifit
it is

353

except on a

from the

other times

kept clofely

This

vifitation
;

fhould take place every

it

two

or three years
a

but as

necelTarily oc-

cafions

confiderable contribution for

the

Arabs, the
lible.

monks evade it as much as pofThey do not, however, fo eafily efcape

quantity
arife,

the daily diftribution of a certain

of provifions; and the quarrels which

on

this

fubjecl, frequently

draw on them a
from
flir

fiiower of ftones, and even mullcet-fhot

the difcontented Bedouins.

They

never

into the country, but, by dint of labour,

have

made
walk

a garden,

on the rocks, with earth they

have brought thither, which ferves them to

in.

They

cultivate excellent fruit there,

figs,

fuch as grapes,

and

efpecially pears, of

which they make

fuch
fruit.

prefents,

and which are

highly efleemed at Cairo, where they have no

Their domeflic

life

is

the fame

with that of the Greeks and Maronites of

Lebanon, that
ufeful

is,

it

is

entirely

devoted to

works, or

to religious

duties.

But

the

Monks

of Lebanon enjoy the inefbimable

advantage of liberty
is

anJ

fecurity,

which
flate

not poiTeired by thofe of Smai.

this coniined

In other

refpedts,

and melancholy
a

Vo

L.

XL

of

354

TRAVELS
is

IN
the Greeks of

of exiilence

that of

all

the monks, in the

live

Tarkifli empire.

Thus

Mar- Simeon to the north of Aleppo, and of Mar-Saba on the Dead-fea; this alfo is
the
life

of the

Copts

in

the

manafteries

of Saint Macarius, and

the defert.
prifons,

Saint

Anthony

in

Every where

their convents are

with no other light than a window

receive
their vi(5tuals;

by which they
deftitute

and

every where are they built in difmal places,

of whatever can give pleafure, and

is

where nothing
ftones,

to be

found but rocks and

without either grafs or mofs; and yet

they are full of

Sinai,
five

monks
at

there are

fifty

at

and twenty

Mar
in

Saba, and up-

wards of three hundred

of Egypt.
this,
I

the

two Deferts
one
of the

one day enquired the reafon of

in

converfation

with

fuperiors

of Mar-hanna,

and

aflied

him,

" What could induce men to engage in a ** mode of life fo truly miferable?" *'What,"
laid he, ''are not

you

a Cliriflian

Is

not this

the path
replied
**'

which

leads to

heaven

?" " But,"^

falvation

I,

"We

may

alfo

obtain

without renouncing the w^orld; (and betv/een ourfelves, father,) I do not perceive

*''

''

that the

monks, though they are pious,

"

pollefs

EGYPT AND
^'^

SYRIA.

355

pofTefs that ancient fervour

which throughon the hour

'*

out hfe, kept

its

attention fixed
It
is

" of death." " " have no longer

*'

true," faid he,

" we

the auflerity of the ancient

is

Anchorites, and in reality this

fon

one rea-

"
**

why

our convents are fo

full.

You
live

who come from

in fecurity
life as

a country where

men

** ** **

and abundance, may confider our

felf-denial,

an infupportable

and our
But,

retreat

from the world

as a facrifice.

**

in the fituation of this country, perhaps,

" the cafe is different. What can we do ? " Turn merchants We fliould then be over" whelmed with the cares of bulinefs and ** our families, and, after having worked hard
!

**

for

thirty

years,
the'

comes

the
are

Aga,

the

**

Pacha, or
trial

Cadi;

we
to

brought to

"
** **

without even the fhadow of a crime;

accufc us;

witneffes are fuborned

are

we
day
his

baflinadoed,

plundered,

and
the

turned
firfl

"

into the world as

it.

naked

as

" we entered
*

As

for the peafant,

cafe his

flill

worfe, the
pillages

Aga

opprelTes

him,

"
*'

the foldier

him, and the Arabs

foldiers
?

rob him.
profeffion

Shall
is

we become

The may
feem

**
'*

laborious and dangerous, anc

It
''

how

it

will end not very certain.

a 2

35^

TR AV

E L
to

N
ourfelves
vtp

" leem hard perhaps

fliut

"
**
**
**

in a convent i but, at leaft,

we

live there in

peace, and, though in a ftate of habitual

abftinence and poverty,

and enjoy more than

in

we perhaps pofTefs we fhould if we had

Obferve
the

" continued
**

the

world.

fituation of the peafants,

and look at ours.

"
**

We poflefs

every thing they have, and even

are better clad,

what they have not; we

" and better fed; we drink wine and coffee: " and who are our monks but the children ** of peafants ? You talk of the Copts of
'*

Saint Macarius

and Saint Anthony! Be

is

** **

allured their condition

much

better than

that of the Bedouins and Fallahs

who

fur-

" round them." I own I was ailoniflied

nefs,

at fo

much
I
felt,

frank-

and

jufl

reafoning;
ever,

but
the

more
heart

forcibly than
Is

that

human
is

moved by

the fame fprings, in every fitua-

tion.

The

defire

of happinefs

every where

the motive, w^hether fought in hope or a6lual

enjoyment.

The,-,difcourfe

of

this

monk
and
the

may fugged many fhew how far the

from the
w^orld
is

other
fpirit

reflexions,

of

retirement

connedied

with

Hate

EGYPT AND
ilate
fes

SYRIA.
it

357

of any Government ; and from what cau-

and under what circumflances

muft origi-

nate,
fhall

be predominant, or decline.

But

now
faid

conclude this geographical view of

I

Syria,

and refume, in a few words, what

of
its

have

revenues and forces, to enits

able the reader to form a compleat idea of

political ilate.

Aa

CHAP

3.>8

T R A

V E L

CHAP.
Tolitical Jiate

XXXII.

of Syria refumed,
confidered as a country
flrips

Syria

may be
:

compofed of three long

ferent qualities

of land of dif-

one of thefe, extending along

is

warm, humid valley, the healthinefs of which is doubtful, but which is extremely fertile the other, which
the Mediterranean,
a
-,

is

the frontier of this,

foil,

is

a mountainous and

rugged

enjoying a more falubrious tempe-

rature; the third,

tains to the
latter
eafi:,

which

lies

behind the

moun-

combines the drynefs of the

with the warmth of the former.

{qqu.

We
pro-

have

by what a happy combination of

foil

the properties of climate and

this

vince unites in a fmall compafs the advantages an^ productions of different zones, in-

fomuch, that nature feems

it

to

have defigned

for

one of the moil agreeable habitations

continent.
It

of

this

may

be reproached,
vv^ith

however, like almoft

v/anting
that
frefh

all

hot countries,

and

animated verdure

which almoft

perpetually adorns our fields;

we

fee there

none of that gay carpeting of

grafs

and

fiov/ers

which decorate the mea.

dows

EGYPT AND
dows of Normandy and
clumps of
beautiful
trees

SYRIA.

359

Flanders, nor thofe

which give fuch

in Provence, the

richnefs and animation to the landfcapes of

Burgundy and

Brittany.

As

land of Syria has almofl always a brown and

parched afped:, which is only enlivened here and

there

by

firs,

mulberry-trees, and vineyards.

poffibly,

This defedlis kfs the fault of nature,

than that of art ; had not thefe countries been

ravaged by the hand of man, they might per-

haps

at

this

day

have been fhaded with

is

forefts.

Thus much

certain,

and

it

is

the advantage

of hot over cold countries,

is

that in the former, wherever there

water,

vegetation

may

be perpetually maintained and

made
cold,

to

produce an uninterrupted fucceffion

to flowers,

of fruits

and flowers

to fruits.

In

nay even in temperate

nature

climates,

on

the contrary,

benumbed
Tlie

for feveral

months,

lofes

in a flerile

llumber the third

foil

part, or even half the year.

which

has produced grain, has not time, before the

decline of the

fummer

heat, to
is

mature veee-

tables; a fecond crop

not to be expedieJ,

and the hufbandman

to a long

fees

himfeif condemned
Syria, as

and

fatal repofe.

we have

{cm,

is

exempt from

thefe inconveniences;

36o

TRAVELS
happens, that
is
is lefs

IN
its

if therefore it fo

produdlons

do not correfpond with

this

natural advantages,

owing
fix

to

its

phyfical than political

let

ilate.

To

our ideas on this head,

us

refume, in a few words, what

we have

already

explained in detail of the revenues, forces, and

population of the province.

From
pachalic,

the ftate of the contributions of each

it

appears,

that

the

annual

fum

paid by Syria into the Kafna, or Treafury of

the Sultan, amounts to two thoufaqd three

hundred and forty- five purfes,

viz.

Aleppo

EGYPT AND
Karadij,
tindt

SYRIA.
and
is

361

which

is

almoft every where diftaxes,

from the other

account-

able diredily to the Kafna.

This capitation

does not take place in the countries which

are fub-let, as thofe

of the Maronites and

Druzes, but

is

confined to thtRayas, or im-

mediate fubjeds.

The

Capitation tickets are

from three and

It
is

five,

to eleven piaflres a head.

difficult to eftimate the total

fifty

produce,

but allowing one hundred and

to pay the tax, at the

thoufand

mean

rate

of xvk piaftres,
livres
if
5

we have the fum of 2,250,000 we cannot be far from the truth,

Syria, to

and

we com-

pute the total of the Sultan's revenue from be 7,500,000

livres,

(312,500/,)

Let
have

us

now

eftimate

what the country

it,

produces to thofe

who farm

and we

ihall

For Aleppo

362

TRAVELS

IN
as the leafl

Which make 30,750,000

livres,( 1,28 1,250/.)

This fum muft be conlidered

we

can allow for the produce of Syria, the profits of the Sub-Farms, fuch as the countries ot
the Druzes, the Maronites, the Anfarians, 6cc.
jiot

being included.
military eftablilhment
is

The

by no means

proportionable to what in Europe

we
to

fliould

expert from fuch a revenue ;

all

the troops of

the Pachas

united cannot

amount

more

than 5)700 men, both cavalry and infantry,

viz.

EGYPT AND
are joined

SYRIA,

363

by the

Janifaries,

and that the

Pachas

enlift

vagabond volunteers from every

which form thofe fudden armies we have {ttn colleded in the wars of Daher and
quarter,

AH

Bey

but the fketch

fkill

have given of the

mihtary

of thefe armies, and the dif-

cipHne of fuch troops,

Syria
muilj,
is flill

may

convince us, that

w^orfe defended

than Egypt.

We

however, allow the Turkiih

qualities
fubfiil: in
j

foldiers

two ineflimable 'good which enables them to

a frugality
the moll: ex-

haufted country, and a bodily health capable

of enduring thegreateil; fatigues.

effed:

This

is

the
are

of the

hardfl:iips

to

which they

inured by their manner of living. Continually

on horfeback, and
earth,

in the field, lying

air,

on the
they do

and fleeping in the open

not

experience that contrafi:

between the luxu-

rious life of cities,

and the fatigue of camps,

of polidied

which

is

fo fatal to the foldiers

nations.

Syria and Egypt,

to the facility with

com.pared with refpe6t

which they may be

differ

at-

tacked or defended,
point.

almoft in

every

Egypt
the

is

protected
fide

from a foreign

enemy on

land

by her

deferts,

and on that of the

fea

by her dangerous
coaft.

364

TRAVELS
on the contrary,

IN
is

coaft. Syria,
fide

open on the

of the continent by the Diarbekar, and

expofed alfo on that of the Mediterranean by a coaft every where acceffible.

It is eafy to

make

a defcent in Syria, but very difficult to

:

land in Egypt

Egypt once invaded

refill;

is

con-

quered: Syria

may
is

Egypt

vv^hen

con-

quered

is

extremely difficult to keep, and

Syria
it

eafily loft;

fo ealily defended, it
loft.

is

impoffible

fhould be

Lefs

fkill is

neceftary to conquer one,

than to preserve the

that

other.

The

reafon

is,

Egypt being a
brings on a
;

country of plains, the invader there makes a

rapid progrefs
battle,
;

every

movement
is

and every battle

decifive

Syria,

on

the contrary, being a mountainous country,

war

there muft be

war of

pofts,

and

every lofs

may be

repaired.

The fubjedt
to be

of population, which remains

is

difcuifed,

infinitely

more

difficult

than the two preceding ones.

Calculations

of

this

kind can only be made from analogies

always liable to error.

The

beft

way

will

be to compute from two extremes, the populoufnefs of

which

is

pretty well

known.
pled,

The

part of the country

which

is

beft peo-

EGYPT AND
pled.
Is

SYRIA.

365

that of the Maronites and Druzes,

and gives nine hundred inhabitants for each

fquare league, which computation will alio
ferve for the countries of Nablous, Hufbeya,

Adjaloun, the territory of Damafcus, and fome

other places.

The
that

other,

which

is

the leaft
gives

populous,

is

of Aleppo,

which
to four

from three hundred and eighty

hun-

dred inhabitants to each fquare league, which

eftimation will fuit the greater part of Syria.

Calculating from thefe materials by a method

too tedious to explain here,
it

appears to

me

that the total population of Syria

may be

eftimated at 2,305,000 fouls,

viz.

For the Pachalic of Aleppo

ing the Kefraouan the Kefraouan
-

320,00a 200,000
115,000
120,000

that of Tripoli, not includ-

the country of the Druzes

the Pachalic of Acre
Paleftine
_ -

300,000
50,000
1,200,000

the Pachalic of

Damafcus

Total 2,305,000

Let

366

TRAVELS
Let us fuppofe
it

IN
half,

two millions and a

and

iince

Syria contains about five thoufand

fifty

two hundred and

fate of one

fquare leagues, at the

fifty in
fliall

hundred and

length,

and

thirty-five in breadth,

we

have upon

an average four hundred and feventy-fix inhabitants for every fquare league.
a

So feeble
a

population

in

fo

excellent

country,

may

well excite our aftonifliment, but this

flill

will be

encreafed

if

we compare

the

prefent

number

of

inhabitants,

with that

of ancient times.

We

are informed

by the
the

philofophical geographer,
territories

Strabo,

that

of Jammia and Joppa in Palefline,

alone, v/ere formierly fo populous, as to be

able to bring forty thoufand

armed men into

the accounts

the

field.

At

prefent they could fcarcely fur-

niih three thoufand.

From

we

have of Judea

in the

time of Titus, and

tolerably accu-

which
rate,

are to be

efteemed

that country mufl; have contained four

;

millions of inhabitants

but

at prefent, there

are not, perhaps, above three thoufand. If we

flill

go

farther

back into

antiquit}^,

we

iliall

find

the fame populoufnefs

among
It
is

the Fhiliflines,

the Phoenicians, and in the kingdoms of Sa-

maria and Damafcus.

true that

fome

writers.

EGYPT AND
writers,

SYRIA,
fee

363?

reafoning

from what they

indeed,

In
;

Europe, have called in queftion thefe fadts

feveral of

which,
;

appeared

to

be

difputable

but the

comparifons on which
lefs

they build, are not on that account the

erroneous
;

firil,

becaufe the lands of Afia in

fertile

general are

more

than thofe of Europe

fecondly, becaufe a part of thefe lands are

capable of being cultivated, and in fadl are

cultivated,

without lying fallow or requiring

becaufe the Orientals confor their fubfiftence

manure

thirdly,
lefs

fume one half

neral
for

than

the inhabitants of the weftern world, in ge',

all

which
lefs

reafons

it

appears, that

a territory of

extent

may

contain doLible

and

treble

the population.

Thefe authors

exclaim againfl the armies of two and three

hundred thoufind, furnifhed by

in

ftates,

which

Europe would not produce above twenty

it
is

or thirty thoufandj but

not coniidered

that the conftitutions of ancient nations were

wholly

different

from ours
;

that ^hefe nations

were entirely cultivators

that there

was

lefs

inequality, and lefs idlenefs than

among
j

us

that every cultivator

was

a foldier

that in

war, the army frequently

confifled

of

tlie

whole

TRAVELS
whole nation, and,
in a

IN
ftate

word, that their

was

that of the prefent Maronites and Druzes.

Not
man,

that I wifh to appear an advocate for

thofe rapid populations,

are

which from a

lingle

made

to

pour forth in a few ge;

nerations,

numerous and powerful nations

in thefe relations there are

a multitude of
;

miftakes in words i and errors of Copyifts

but admitting only what

experience

is

conformable to
is

and nature, there

nothing to

contradid; the great population of high antiquity

:

without appealing to the pofitive

of hiftory, there are innumerable
in

teftimony

monuments wiiich dcpofe

fadt^

favour of the

Such are the prodigious quantities of

mountains,
at this

ruins difperfed over the plains, and even in

the

day deferted.

On

the mofl remote parts of Carmel are found

wild vines and olive-trees, which muft have

been conveyed thither by the hand of man;

and

in the

Lebanon of the Druzes and

rocks

Mafir-

ronites,
trees

the

now abandoned
in a

to

and brambles, prefent us

thoufand

places with terraces,

which prove they were

anciently better cultivated, and confequently

much more

populous than in our days.

It

EGYPT AND
It

SYRIA.
colle6l:

369

now

only remains for me, to

fcattereci

the

general fads

through

this

work,

and thofe

may have
itate

omitted, in order to
political,

form a complete defcription of the

civil,

and moral

of the inhabitants of

Syria.

Vol. IL

B b

CHAP.

37^

TRAVELS
C
II

IN

P.

XXXIII.
in

Government of the Turks

Jl

Syria

HE reader

muil already have been

coa-

vinced from what has been faid, that the

government of the Turks

miHtary defpotiim
;

in Syria
is,

is

a pure

that

that

the bulk

of the inhabitants are fubjed: to a faction of

armed men, v^ho

a

difpofe of every thing ac-

cording to their interefh or caprice.

To form
with

more

perfed; conception of the fpirit

this fa(flion governs,
it

which

will be fufficient

to confider

by what

title

they claim poiTeffion.

When

the Ottomans, under Sultan Selim,

took Syria from the Mamlouks, they confidered

the country only as the fpoii of a vanquifhed

enemy;
law,
ed
is

as a polfeffion acquired

by the law

of arms and war.

Nov/, according to this

nations, the vanquifhvidlor,

among barbarous
his Have; his
;

wholly at the difcretion of the

life,

he

becomes

his property, beall

long to his conqueror

as mailer,

he may difpofe of

he owes his captive nothing, and

leaves

grants

what he

Such

v/as this lav/

him as a favour. amone the Greeks and Romans,

GYPT AND

SYRIA.

'

371

Romans, and among all thofe focietles f robbers whom we have honoured with the name of conquerors. Such, at all times, was that of the Tartars, from when the Turks
derive
tlieir

origin.

On

thefe

principles,

even their

firfl

fecial flate

was formed.

In

the plains of Tartary, the hordes, feparated

by

their

different

interefts,

were no other

than bands of robbers, armed for attack or

defence, and to feize, as fair booty, whatever

they might covet.

Already,

all

the elements

of their prefent

ftate

were formed ; continually

at

wandering and encamped, they were

fliepherds

once

and
in

foldiers;

each horde was an

army; now,

an army, laws are but the

orders of the chief, they are abfolute, and

admit of no delay, they mufl proceed from

one
will,

and from a fmgle head

hence, a
j

fupreme authority in him

and,
obeys.
orders,

paflive

who commands fubmiffion in him who

the tranfmiflion of thefe

But
the

as in

inflrument becomes

an

agent

in his turn, the

confequence

is,

a fpirit at
is

once imperious
cifely

and

fervile,

which

pre-

that

exhibited

by the Turkifli con-

querors.

Proud, after their vid:ory, of being

one of the conquering people, the meanefl of

b 2

th^

372

TRAVELS
mailer

IN

the Ottomans treated the moft illuilrlous of

the vanquilhed with the lofty fuperiority of
a
^

and

this

fpirit

diffufing

itfelf

through every
diftance

rank;,

we may

judge of the

from

whence the Supreme Chief

the croud of Haves beneath
conceives of

looks

down upon

him.

The fentiments he
titles
:

them

cannot be better pourtrayed than in the for-

mulary of the

afiumxd by the Sultans

in their public a6ts

treaties

"

I," fay they, in their

I,

with the kings of France, "

who,

" by the infinite grace of the great, juft, " and omnipotent Creator, and by the " innumerable miracles of the Chief of Pro" phets, am Emperor of Powerful Emperors,
** **

the Refuge of Sovereigns, the Diftributor of

Crowns

to the

Kings of the Earth, Serthrice facred Cities,

" vant of
**

the

two

(Mecca
Alia,

and Medina), Governor of the Holy City

Jerufalem,

" of
**

Mafter of Europe,

and Africa, conquered by our victorious

terrific

" Sword, and our

**
** ** *

Lance, Lord of

the

Two

Seas),

White and Black of Damafcus, the Odour of Paradife,

Seas,

(the

of Bagdad the feat of the Caliphs, of the

FortrelTes of Belgrade,

Agria, and a mulIllands,

titude

of

Countries,

Straights,
*'

Nations,

EGYPT AND
*'
^*
*'

SYRIA.
and of
fo

373

Nations,

Generations,

many

vidiorious armies,

which

repofe beneath the

I,

fhade of our Sublime Porte ^

the

who am

*'

Shadow of God on Earth, &c." From fuch exalted grandeur, how muft the

Sultan look

down on
and

the reft of

mankind

In what light muft he view that earth which

he

polTefles,

diftributes,

but as a domain

of which he is abfolutc mafter ? V/hat muft the people he has fubdued appear, but Haves
devoted to his fervice; and what the foldiers

he commands, but fervants by whofe means he

retains thefefjaves in obedience?

Such is the real

This
in

charader of the Turkifh government.

empire

may be compared
lilands,

to a plantation

one of our Sugar

of
flaves

where a multitude

labour to fupply the luxury of one

Great Proprietor, under the infpedlion of a

few fervants who take good care of themfelves.

There

is

no

difference, except

that

the dominions of the Sultan being too vaft

for a fingle adminiftration, he divide
rate
is

obliged to

them

into fmaller plantations, andfepa-

governments, adminiftered in the fame mode

as the united empire.

Such

are the provinces

under the government of the Pachas.

Thefe

b 3

provinces

374

TRAVELS IN
again

provinces

being

too

extenfive,

the

Pachas have had recourfe

lion,
jftep

to further fubdivi-

and hence that

feries

of fubalterns, v\diich,

by

flep,

defcends to the loweil employ-

ments.

In this gradation of authority, the

objed; in view being invariably the fame, the

means employed never change

Thus, power being abfolute and
the

their nature.

arbitrary in

monarch,

is

tranfmitted

abfolute

and

arbitrary to all his fub-delegates.

Each of
fupe-

thefe
rior.

is

the exa(5l image of his next

is flill

It

the Sultan

who

di.^ ites

and

commands, under the varied names o^ Pacha, Motfallrjny Kaiem-Makam and Aga, nor is
there one in this defcending fcale^ even to the

Ddibap:e,
is

who

does not reprefent him.

It

curious to hear with

what

infolence the

loweft of thefe foldiers, giving his orders in a

village,

pronounces
it is

It

is

the

will of the

Sultan 5

the Sultans pleasure.

is

The

reafon

of this infolence

eafily explained:

for the

bearer of the orders of the Sultan becomes

felf,

him-

for that

ficult

moment, the Sultan. It is not dif-, to conceive what muft be the confequence
ail

of fuch an adminiflration, fince

experience
is

invariably proves, that m.oderation

uifficult

the moft
thofe
niej^

of virtues;

ajid

fincc

even

EGYPT AND
men who
rpsgled;

SYRIA.

375

preach

it

moil fervently, frequently

to pracftife it;

how numerous muit

be the abufes of unhmited power in the great,

who

are Grangers

both to forbearance and to

pity, in upftarts

proud of authority and eager

to profit

by

it,

and in fubalterns continually

aiming at greater power? Let us j udgc therefore,

how far

certain fpeculative writers are juftified

in infmuating, that defpotifm in

Turkey

is

not fo great an
its

evil as

we

imagine, fincc, from

it

only refiding in the pei'fon of the fovering,

afted: the great

can alone

by

whom

he

is

im-

mediately furrounded.

It

is

certain, to ufe

the expreffion of the Turks, that the fabre of

the Sidtan does not defcend upon the dujh,
this

but
his

fabre he entrufls to

the

hand of

Vizir,

who
it

delivers

it

to

ihe Pacha, froni

whom
and
is,

palTes to the

Motf\llam, to the Aga,

it

-even to

the loweil Delibaflie; fo that

in

fa(^,

within

the

reach of the

vilefl

retainer to office,

and

its deflrucftive

edge de-

fcends ev-en Qn the meaneft heads.

This erflate

roneous reafoning

arifes

from the

of the

people at Conftantinople, to
tan
is

whom
to

the Sul-

more
;

attentive

tlian

thofe of the

provinces

but this attention, which his

is

own
paid
to

perfonal fafety renders neceUiiry there,

b 4

3-6

TRAVELS
iC;
it

IN
and, even
dif-^

to no other part of the empire;

tL

may be
;

faid to
for, if

be attended with
Conftantinople

agreeable eifedis

is

in

want

of provifions, ten provinces are famifhed

Yet, w^hich
is

for a fupply,

of mofl impor-

tance to the empire, the capital or the provinces

?

in cafe

of

Vi^ar,

by which mufl

fol-

diers be furniflied,

and by which fed?

To
dif-^

the provinces therefore muft

we

look to

cover the real effedls of defpotifm, and, in

Turkey,

as

every

where

elfe,

we muft

be

convinced that arbitrary power in the foverei^n reign

is
it

fatal to

the

ftate,

as

from the fove-

muft

neceffarily devolve

upon

his fub-

alterns,
it

and become more abufed the lower

it

defcends; fmce

is

maxim

verified

by

conftant experience, that the flave,

mafter,
is

become
Let
adminif-

the mofl rigorous of Tyrants.

the abufes of this
it

us

now examine

tration, as far as

refpeds Syria.

In each government, the Pacha, being the

image of the Sultan,

defpot,

is,

like

him, an abfolute

All power
is

is

united in his per-

fon

he

chief both of the military and the

finances,

of the police and criminal juflice.

He has the

power of life and death; he has the

in a word,

power of making peace and war;

he

caj^

EGYPT AND
can do every thing.

SYRIA.
objecft

377

The main

of fo

much
is,

authority

is

to colled; the tribute, that

to tranfmit the revenue to the great pro-

prietor

who

has conquered, and v^ho poffefTcs

terrific lance.

the country by the right of his

This duty

fulfilled,

no other

is

required from

him; the means employed by the agent to accompliih it is a matter of no concern;

thofe means are
is

left to his difcretion

and fuch

the nature of his fituation, that he cannot

be delicate in his choice of them; for he can neither advance, nor even maintain
himfelf,

but in proportion as

he can pro-

cure money.

The
officer

place he holds depends

on

the

favour

of
;

the

Vifir,

or

fome
only

other

great

and

this

can

be obtained and fecured by bidding hio-her

than his competitors.

raife

money

to

muft therefore pay the tribute, and alfo to inall

He

demnify himfelf for

his dignity,

he has paid, fupport

and make a provifion in cafe of

Accordingly, the
firfl:

accidents.

care of a
is

Pacha, on entering on his government,

devife

to

methods
are

to

procure money, and the

the
bell:.

quickeil

invariably

The
miri

eftablilhed

mode
is

of colleding
to appoint

the

and the cufloms,

one or more
principal

373

TRAVELS
which

IN
who,
it

principal farmers, for the current yeir,

in order to facilitate the collecfdon,

divide

into leller farmSy

are again fubdivided,

even to the fmalleft villages.

thcfQ

The Pacha

lets

employments

to the

bed

bidder, wilhas
fide

ing to draw as
polTible.

much money from them

farmers,
in taking

The

who, on

their

have no object

them but gam,

Ttrain

every nerve to augment their receipt.

Hence

an avidity in thefe delegates always bordering on diflionefty; hence thofe extortions to

which they
and hence,
faction of
litions.

are

the

more

eafily inclined as

they are fure of being fupported by authority;

in the very heart, of the people, a

men interefled in multiplying impoThe Pacha may applaud himfelf for

penetrating into the mofl: hidden fources of

private profits, by the clear-fighted rapacity

of his fubalterns; but what

is

the

confe-

quence?

The

people, denied the enjoyment of

the fruit of their labour, reflain their induilry

to the fupply of their ;ieceliary wants.

The hulbandman
felf

only fows to preferve

artift

him-

from ftarving; the

it.

labours only to

fupport his

family; if he has any furplus,

he carefully conceals

Thus

the arbitrary
to the

power of the Sultan, tranfmitted

Pacha,

and

EGYPT AND
and
a

SYRIA.
by giving a

379
free

to ail his fubdelegates,

courfe to extortion becomes the main fpriiig of

tyranny which circulates

through every
a reciprocal re-

clafs, whilfl its effects,

by

aftion, are every

arts,

where

fatal to agriculture, the

;

commerce, population
conflitutes
is

in a

word, everv

thing which
ilate, or,

the

power of the

which

the fame thing, the

power

of the Sukan himfelf.

This power

is

not fubjeft to

lefs

abufes in

the army. Perpetually urged by the neceffity of obtaining money, on which his fafetyandtranquilUty depend, the Pacha has retrenched, as
far as pofiible, the ufual military eflablidiment.

He

diminiflies the

number of his

troops, hf-

fens their pay,

difcipline
is

winks

at their difordersj

and

no more.

Were

a foreign

war

BOW

to

happen, were the Ruffians to appear

again in Syria, as in the year 1772,

who would
?

defend that province for the Sultan

It

fometiraes

happens

that

the Pachas,

who

are Sultans in their provinces,

have per-

fonal hatreds againfl: each other.

thefe, they avail

To

gratify

themfelves of their power,

or open war, the ruinous

and wage

fecret

confequences of which are fure to be fdt by

$he fubjects of the Sultan,
It

38o
It

T R A V
alfo

E L
tha<-

N
Pachas
arc

hari'^ns

thefe
to

tempted to

appropriate

themfelves

the

power of which they

are

the depofitaries.

The

Porte, forefeeing this, endeavours to pro-

vide againft their defedtion, by various means.

The employments
officers
tals, as at

are divided,

and particular

maintained in the caflles of the capi-

Aleppo, Damafcus, and Tripoli

^.ppear,

-,

but fhould a foreign enerny

nefit

what be?

would

refult

from

this divinon

Every

months Capidjis are fent, who keep the Pachas in alarm, on account of the fecret orthree
ders of

which they

are the bearers

but not

unfrequently the Pachas, as cunning as themfelves, get rid

of thefe troublefome

fpies.

The

Porte, in fhort, often changes the refidence

of the Pachas, that they

may

not have time

all

to form connexions in the country; but as

the confequences of a bad form f government

have a mifchievous tendency, the Pachas, uncertain of

to-morrow,

treat their provinces as

rnere tranfient poffeffions, and

take care to

make no improvement
fucceflbrs.

for the benefit of their

On

the contrary, they haften to

exhauft them of the produce, and to reap in

one day,
It
is

if

poinble, the fruit of

true, thefe irregularities,

many years. every now and

then.

EGYPT AND
the pradices of the Porte

SYRIA.
which

381

then, are punillied by the bowftring, one of

befl difplays

the

fpirit

of his government.

When

Pacha
confe-

has laid wafte a province; when,

in

quence of repeated ads of tyranny, the cla-

mours of the people have reached Conftantinople, woe be unto

him

if he

be without a pro!

tedor, or fparing of his

money At

the end

of the year, a Capidji

arrives,

producing the
bringing
or fome other

firman of prorogation: fometimes

with him a fecond or third

tail,

new mark of favour;

is

but, whilfl the

Pacha
an

celebrating a feflival on the occafion,

order appears for his depofition, then another

for his exile,
his head.

and frequently a

kat-flierif for
is

The oflenfible reafon

always for

having opprelTed the fubjed:s of the Sultan

but the Porte, by taking

poiTefiion

of the

wealth of the extortioner, and reftoring nothing

to the people, leaves fufficient

room

to think

from difapproving a fyilem of robbery and plunder which it finds fo

that the government
is

far

profitable.

Every day,

therefore, affords frefli

examples of opprefiive and rebellious Pachas;

and

if

none of them have hitherto fucceeded in

flable

forming a
it is lefs

and independent government,

thefe wife meafures of the

owing

to

Divan,

38i

TRAVELS
own

IN
thati

Divan, and the vigilance of the Capidjis,

their

ignorance in the art of governing.

In Afia, thofe moral means are never employed,

which,

in the

hands of able
raifed

legiilators^
ftates

have frequently
foundations at

powerful

on

firfl

extremely feeble.

The

Pachas regard nothing but money; nor has

repeated experience been able to
fenfible

make them

that

this,

fo

far

pledge of their fecurity,

from being the becomes the certairr

caufe of their deftrudion.

They

are

wholly

devoted to amaffing wealth, as

to be purchafed.

if friends

were

Afa, Pacha of Damafcus,

left eight millions of. livres

(above three hun-

dred and thirty thoufand pounds), and was

betrayed by his

Mamlouk, and'fmothered
feen

in

the bath*

We have
is

what was the

fate

of Ibrahim Sabbar with his twenty millions.

Djezzar

following the fame courfe, and

will end in the

fame way.

Not one

of them

has ever thought of infpiring and promoting

that defmtereiled love of the public welfare,

which
claiTes
teft

in

Greece and

Italy, nay,

even in Hol-

land and Switzerland, has enabled the lower

of people to enter into a fuccefsful congreateil:

with the

empires.

The Emirs
:

and Pachas

all

imitate the

Sultan

all

re

gard

EGYPT* AND SYRIA.

383

gard the country they govern as their private

property, and their fubjed:s as their domef*
tics
;

while they, in their turn, fee in their

mafbers; and iince
is it

fuperiors only imperious

they are

all alike,

of what importance

which they

ferve?

Hence,

in thefe flates, the in preference to

cuftom of employing foreign

national troops,

I'he chiefs are diftruflful

of the people, confcious that they do not merit their attachment; their aim is not to govern but to tyrannize over the country, and

by

a jufl

relation,

their

country

fees

their ruin
ries, too,

with

indifference.

The mercenathem
to the

whom
their
profit

they keep in pay, continually

intent

on

own
by

interefl, fell

enemy, to

their fpoils.

Daher had

maintained for ten years the wretch,

dered him. It
is

who mur-

a truth

worthy of remark, that

the greater part of the African and Afiatic

fhates,

efpecially fince the days of

Mahomet,

have been governed on thefe principles, and

that no part of the world has exhibited fo

many commotions
tions in
its

in its provinces, or revolu-

empires.

Ought we not then

to

conclude, that arbitrary power in the fovereign

is

no

lefs fatal to

the military flrength, than

?

the finances of a nation

But

let

us proceed to

384
to enquire

TRAVELS
what
are its efFed:s
Syria.

IN
on the
civil go-

vernment of

The
tan,
is

Pacha, as being the image of the Sul*

the head of
all

the police of his gotitle

vernment; under which

prehended criminal

mufb be com-

juflice.

He

pofieffes the

moil abfolute power of life and death,, and this he exercifes without formality, and without appeal.
fence,

Wherever he meets with an

of-

he orders the criminal to be

feized,

and the executioner, by whom he is accompanied, ftrangles him, or takes off his head

upon the fpot| nay, fometimes, he himfelf does not difdain this ofBce, Three days before

my
a

arrival at Sour,

Djezzar had ripped up

Mafon with an

axe.

The Pacha
!

frequently

ftrolls

about difguifed, and woe to the

furprizes in a fault

man
he

whom 'he
this

But

as

cannot be prefent every where, he

commits

duty to a deputy, called the Wali, whofe

of the Officiersde

office refembles that

Guetm

France.

Like them he patroles night and

and
the

day; keeps a watchful eye on the feditious;

apprehends

robbers

like

Pacha,

judges and condemns without appeal.

criminal
ilrikes
;

The
is

bends
the head

his

neck;

the executioner
carried

falls,

and the body

EGYPT AND
fied tfF in a leathern fack.

SYRIA.
This
officer

3S5

has

a multitude of fpies,

who
their

are almoft all

of

them

thieves,

and by

means knows every

Aleppo, and

thing that pafies.

nifliing that
cities

It is not, therefore, allo-

like Cairo,
fafer

Damafcus, fhould be
or Naples
;

than Genoa,

Rome,

but

chafed

and

how dearly is this fafety purhow many innocent lives are faand
injuftice

criiiced to the partiality

of the

Wali and
of the

his agents

The Wali

prefides likewife over the police

;

markets

that
;

is,

he

infpe(^ts

the

weights and meafures

feverity
is

and, on this head, his

fniallell:

extreme. For the

deficiency

in the

weight of bread, meat,

debs, or

con^

fetlionary,

he

inflidls five

hundred flrokes of

the baflinado, and,

fometimes, even death.

great
falfe

Examples of
cities,

this are frequent in the

is

yet there

no country wherein
:

weiehts are more

to do
is

common

all

the dealer has

to keep a lliarp look-out for the paf-

fing of the Wali,

and Mohtefeb, or infped:or

of the market.

As foon

as they

appear on

horfcback, the deficient weights are put out

of the way, and others produced.

alio bargain

with the fervants

The dealers who precede

thefe

Vo;,. \l.

3^6
thefe

7'

R A V E L

two

officers >

and for a certain fum can

enfure impunity.

The

office

of Wali by no means extendi

to thofe 'various

objeds of

utility

which are

under the regulation of our police.

tention
is

No

at-

paid either to the cleanlinefs or the

tlie cities^

falubrity of

They

are never paved,

fwept, or watered, either in Syria or in Egypt,

The

ilreets are

narrow and winding, and

al-

moft always encumbered with rubbifh^ Travellers are,

above

all,

fhocked

at the

fight of
no-

a multitude of hideous dogs^

which have

owner.

They form

a fort of indspeadenS

body, fubfifting on public alms.

quartered by families and
din;ri(fLSy

They

are

and fliould

one of them happen

bat enfues,

to pafs his limits,, a

is

com-

which
io

extremely troublefome
fhed the
kill

to pafTengers,

The Turks, who

readily^

blood of

man

do not

thefe

dogs, though

they avoid touching

them as
the
this is
gatesis

unclean.
fifety

They

pretend

they
j

enfuxe

of the

cities

by night

but

more owing to the V/aH, and the with which every ftreet is fecured. It
leged,
likewifc, that

al-

they devour
affifted

the car-

rion

but in this they arc

jackalls,
c
.

by a great

number of

which

are concealed

by

hundreds

EGYPT AND
hundreds
in

SYRIA.

387

the gardens,

and among the

not expeil either

ruins and tombs.

We muft
in
life,

walks or plantations
In fuch a country,

the Turkifli cities.

doubtlefs, will appear

neither fecure nor agreeable;

is

but

this

alio

the confequence of the arbitrary

power of

the Sultan,

Cc

CHAP,

388

TRAVELS

IN

CHAP.
Of X
is

XXXIV,

the

Adminijlratlon of fujike.

HE

adminiftratlon of juftlce in civil fuits,

the only fpecies of authority

which the Sul-

tans have with-held

from the executive power

of the Pachas ^ whether, from a fenfe of the

enormous abufes which might refult from entrufling

it

them with

it,

or from

knowing

that

required

more time and information than

appointed for this purpofe, who,

fall to

the fhare of thefe their deputies. Other

officers are

by a wife

regulation, are independent of the

as their jurifdi<5lIon is

Pachas; but

founded
of the

on the fame
government,

principles with the

it is

reft

attended with the fame in-

con veniencies.
All the magiftrates of the empire,
Cadis, or
chief,

called

judges,

depend on one principal

whorefides atConflantinople. Thetitle

is
,

of his dignity

Cadi-cl-afar, (g), or Judge

title

of the
I

Army

which
and

alone indicates, as
that the

have already obferved,

power

is

entirely military,

refides

v.'holly in the

army and
{g)

its

general.

This grand Cadi

Commonly

called Cadi Lffiiln.

names

EGYPT AND
names the judges of the

SYRIA.

3Sg

capital cities, fuch as

Aleppo, Damafcus, Jerufalem, &c.

judges again name others
in their jurifdid:ion.
lification required
?

Thefe
withthe quathefc

in the places
is

But what

Always money. All

bidder,
to year.

employments,
are fold to the

like thofe -of the

government,
in the

bed

and farmed

fame way from year

fequence
?

What

is

the con-

That the farmers endeavour to recover the money advanced 5 to obtain interefl:,

and

alfo

a profit.

What

therefore
in

we expedl from fuch men who hold the balance of

can
fellow citizens
?

difpoiitions

juflice in their

hand, and decide on the property of their

The

tribunal
is

decilions,

whence thefe Cadis IfTue their called the Mahkama, or Place of

houfes

Sometimes it is at their own Judgment. but never at any place which cor'y

refponds v/ith the idea annexed to fo facred

an employment.
ment, the
ed carpet.
clerks

mean apartCadi is feated on a mat or wretchOn each fide of him arc his
In an empty

and feme domeflics.

;

The

door
;

is

open to every body

there,

the parties appear

and

without

interpreters, advocates, or at-

tornies,

each pleads his

own
c ^

caufe.

Squatted,

on

3^

TRAVELS
and reply again

IN
difpute,

on the ground, they

conteft,

ilate the fadls,

in their turns.
;

Somecries

times the debates are violent

but the

of

the clerks, and the ftaff of the Cadi, foon

reftore order

and

lilence.

Gravely fmoking

his pipe,

and

tvvifting the

end of his beard

liflens,

round his
gates,

finger,

this

judge

interro{en--

and concludes by pronouncing a

tence without appeal,

which
retire,

at

moft allows
are never

but two months delay;

very well fatisfied
refped:,
-,

The parties

they
fee,

however, with

and pay a

eitimated at one tenth

of the litigated property, without murmuring

at the decilion, as
it is

invariably dictated

by

the

infallible

Koran.
this fimplicity

It

muft be owned

of juftice,

which does not confume the

property, either

in preliminary, accelTary, or fubfequent ex-

pencesj and this proximity of the fovereign

tribunal,

which does not compel the pleadfrom

his place of refidence, are

ers abfence

two
too
ters,

ineftimable advantages;

but

it

cannot

be denied that they are counterbalanced by

many

abufes.

In vain have feme wrivices

to render

more confpicuous the

the Turks.

of

our legal cuiloms, boafled the adminiftration

of

jufl;ice

among

Thcfc comrnendationsj,

EGYPT AND
ledge of the theory of

SYRIA.

391

niendations, founded on a fuperficial

know-

dence, are not

Mahometan jurifprujullified, when we conlider

Daily experience
is

what

is

actually pradlifed.

proves, that there

tice is

no cGuntry wherein jufin

more corinpted than

all

Egypt, Syria,

and, no doubt,
pire
(/6),

the reft of the TuTkifli

is

embar-

Venality

no where more open,

nor more impudent.

The

parties

may

gain for their caufe with the Cadi, as they

would
ilances

for any

common
fagacity
;

comm-Qdity.

In-

of

great

and equity, no
rare,

doubt, are to be found

but they are

which
ral

is

the very reafon

why

they are fo ce-

lebrated.
;

Corruption

is

habitual and gene-

and

how
;

is

it

pofiible to be otherwife,

where

integrity

maybe

ruinous, andinjuflice

lucrative

where each Cadi, deciding withfears

out appeal,

neither a

revifion

of his
;

fentence, nor

puniHiment

for his partiality

and where,

in fliort,

the want of clear and

precife laws, afford a thoufand w^ays of avoid-

ing the fliame of an evident injaflice, by open-

ing the crooked path^ of coinnientaries and

interpretations
?

{h) See, on this fubjeil, the obfcrvations of Sir Jr^mes

Porters the Ei:gliQi minii^er at ConRaiitiut^ple,

Such

392

TRAVELS
is

IN
among

Such

the ftate of jurifprudence

the Turks, that there exifts no pubhc and

acknowledged code, whee individuals may

infi:ru(5t

themfelves in their refpedlive rights.

given are, in general, found-

The judgments

ed on unwritten cujioms, or on the frequently

contradi(ftory dec't/ions of the Dodiors.

The

colle6lions

of thefe decifions

are the only

books wherein the judges can acquire any

notions of their duty
;

and

in

them they

find

only particular cafes more calculated to con-

found than enlighten their

ideas.

The Ro-

man
ian
tible

law, in

many
^

particulars, has ferved as a

balls for the determinations of the

Mahomeis

Dodtors

but the great and inexhauf-

fource to

which they
of

recur,

the

??ioJl

pure

book, the depojitary

all knowledge,

the

code of all legiflation, the

pbet.

Koran of the Pro^

HA

P.

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

393

CHAP.
Of
the Infiuence

XXXV.
of
religion*

If

the cbjeeL of religion

as
it
it

were fuch
tions
i

ought to
the

among the Turks be among all nagreat,

did

teach

moderation

in the exercife of their power, and the vulgar,

toleration

amid the

diverfity

of opinions,

it it

would

ftill

be a matter of doubt whether

could fufficiently corred: the vices of which

we have been fpeaking; fmce the experience of all men proves that the principles of morality
only influence condud:,
feconded by
civil

fo

far as

they are

laws.

But nothing can be

worfe calculated to remedy the abufes of govern-

ment than
iburce.

the fpirit o{ Iflamifm :

it

we may on
this,

the

contrary, pronounce

to

be their original
the

To
has

convince himifelf of only to examine

reader

their

revered

book.
that the

In vain

do the Mahometans boaft

feeds

Koran contains the

all

and even
legiflative

the perfedlion of

political

and

knowledge, and jurifprudence: nothing but

the prejudice of education, or the partiality

of

intereft

can

di(fl:ate,

or

atimit

fuch

judg-

394-

TRAVELS
Whoever

IN
the
it

judgment.

reads

Koran,
conveys

muft be obhged

to confefs, that

no notion, either of the relative duties of mankind in fociety, the formation of the
body poUtic, or the principles of the
of governing;
nothing, in a word,
conftitutes a legiilative code.
art

which
five

The

only laws

we

find there

may

be reduced to four or
to

ordinances
flavery,

relative

polygamy,

divorces,
relations

and the fucceflion of near

thefe

and even
dence, but

form no code of jurifprucontradidory, that

are fo

they

cannot be reconciled by the altercations of

the doctors.

The

refl is

merely a chaos of

unmeaning phrafes; and emphatical declamation on the attributes of God, from which
nothing
is

to

be

learnt;

colledtion

of

puerile tales,

and ridiculous fables; and, on

flat

the whole, fo
tion,

and
cau

faftidious a
rr:^d
it

compofiend,

that no

man

to the

notwithilanding the elegance of

tranilation.

M.

Savary's

But

fliould

any general tendency

or femblance of meaning be vifible through the abfurdities of this delirious eliufion,

it is

the inculcation of a fierce and obllinate fanaticifm.

We

are wearied with

the perpetual

recurrence of the words impious, incredulous,

enemies

GyPT AND
and

YR

A.

395

enemies of God

the Prophet-, rebels againfi

God and

the Prophet-, dcDotion towards

God and

the Prophet,

Heaven

is

open to whomfoever

-combats in their caufe; Hoitris ilretch out

their
fire,
**
**

arms

to martyrs

the imagination takes

and the profclyte exclaims, "

Oh MaGod;
follow

hornet; thou art the mefTenger of

thy word

is

his; he

is

infalhble; thou canfi:

**

neither err nor deceive

me: go on,

^*

thee."
it is

Such

is

the fpirit

of the Koran,

and
**

vifible in the very firfl line.

it

" There

is

no uncertainty in this book ;

guides with-

**

out error thofe

ing,

who

believe without doubt-

"

who
is

believe in

what they do not

fee."

What

the tendency of this, but to eftabHfh

him who commands, and the blindefl devotion in him who obeys ? and fuch was the objed: of Mahomet,
the mofi: abfolute defpotifm in

He

did not wifli to enlighten men, but to

difciples,
is

rule over them; he fought not

but
re-

fubjedls;

and obedience, not reafoning

It

quired from fubjedts.

was

to lead
all

them
God.

the more eafdy that he afcribed

.I3y

to

making himfelf

his minifter, he

removed

every fafpicion of perfonal interefl; and avoid-

ed alarming that diilrullful vanity which

is

common

to all

men

he feigned

to

obey that

he

396

T R A V ELS
exalt obedience;
firft

he might
but the
every

he made himfelf

of fervants, with a certainty that

man would flrive to be the fecond, and command the reft. He allured by promifes,
terrified

and
is

by menaces and
-,

as every novelty

fure to

meet with opponents, by holding

left

out the terrors of his anathemas, he the hope of pardon.

them

Hence

in

fome palTages
;

we
it

find an appearance of toleration

is

but this

toleration

fo

rigid,

that fooner or later,

muft lead

to abfolute fubmiffion; fo that

fpirit

in fad: the

fundamental
recurs,

of the

Koran God,

continually

and the moft arbitrary

power

is

delegated to the meilenger of

and by a natural confequence to But by what kind of precepts

this
**
*'

his fuccefTors.
is

the ufe of
is

power manifeiled? " There

is

only one

God, and Mahomet

five

his prophet.

Pray

times a day turning towards Mecca.

in the

**
**

Eat not

day time during the v/hole

month of

the

Ramadan.

Make

the pil-

**

**

grimageof the Caaba, and give alms to the widow and orphan." Here is the profound

fource from

whence

muil;

fpring

all

the fci-

ences, and every branch of political and

ral

knowledge.
all

The

Solons, tbe

moNumas, the
have

Lycurgufes;

the Legiflators of antiquity

EGYPT AND
the relations of

SYRIA.

397

have In vain exhaufted their genius to explain

mankind

in foclety, to declare

the duties and rights of every clafs, and every

individual
:

Mahomet more
may

able or

more prophrafes.
all

found than they, refolves

It certainly

all into iive

be fafely aflerted, of

the

men who have

nations,

ever dared to give laws to

none
of

was
all

more
the

ignorant

than

Mahomet;
tlons

abfurd
Is

compoiitruly

ever

produced,

none
book.

more
this,

wretched

than

his

Of
I

the.

tranfaitions of the lafl twelve

in Afia are a proof; for

hundred years

were

inclined to pafs
it

from

particular
eafy

to to

general obfervations,

would be
convulfions

demonllrate,

that

the
the

of

the

governments,

and

ignorance of the people, in that quarter of

the globe, originate more or
in the
lefs

immediately

Koran, and

its

morality; but I

muH
now

confine myfelf to the country

confidering, and returning to

we

are

Syria, explain

to the reader, the Hate of its inhabitants, relative to relidon. o

The

people of Syria in general, as I have

already faid, are

this difference

Mahometans or
is

Chriftians

of opinion

produ<flive of the

mod
4

398

TRAVELSII^
in
their
civil
frate*

moft dlfagreeable effeds

Treating each other mutually as rebels, infidels,

and impious, the lollowers of Jefus

Chrill and
ciprocal

Mahomet^ are actuated by a reaverfion which keeps alive a fort of

W^e

perpetual war.
excelles to

may

readily conceive the

which the

prejudices of education
all

may
as

carry the vulgar, at

times violent

and the government

a

fo far

from interpofing

mediator

in

thefe diffentions, foments

them by

its partiality.
it

Faithful to the fpirit

of the Koran,

treats the Chriftians

with a
forms.
to-

feverity, wdiich difplays itfelf in varied

Mention has been fometimes made of the

leration of the

Turks
it is

the following

is

the

price at

which

pitrchafed:
is

All kind of public worfliip the

Chriftians,

prohibited

except

in

the

Kefraouan,
to

where the government has not been able

prevent
it.

They cannot

build
flill

any

new

churches 5 and if the old ones

to decay,

they are not allowed to repair them, unlefs

by

a permifTion

which
cannot

cofls
ftrike

them very
a
if a

dear.

A
kill

Chriftian
riik

Mahometan
A'lahometan

without
a

of his

life,

but

Chriftian, he efcapes for a flipulated

price.

EGYPT AND
price.

SYRIA."

399

Chnflians mufl not mount on horfe-

towns; they are prohibited the ufe of yellow flippers, white ihawls, and every
in the
jfort

back

of green colour.
drefs,

Red

for the feet,

and

blue for the

are

the colours affiened

its

them.
dinances

The
to

porte has juft renewed

re-eflabli{h the ancient

or-

form of

their turbans; they

muft be of a coarfe blue

muflin, with a fmgle white border.

When
at

they travel, they are perpetually flopped

different places to

pay Kafars{i), or
are

tolls,
:

from

which the Mahometans

cial
is

exempt

in judi-

proceedings, the oath of two Chriflians

is

only reckoned for one; and fuch

the

partiality

of the Cadis, that

Chriflian to

it is

almofl im

pofTible for a

gain a fuit;

fhort, they alone are ful^edt to the Capitation,

called
thefe

Karadji,

the

ticket of

which

bears

remarkable

words:
yr5;>>z

Djazz-el-

ras, that is (redemption)

bead', a clear

cutting off the

proof of the

title

by which they
foment

are tolerated

and governed.
fo

Thefe
the

diflindtions,

proper to

hatred and diviiions, are dilTeminated

people,

among
all

and

manifefl:
life.
is a

themfelves in

the intercourfe of
(;)

The

mcanefl

Ma-

The

K here

guttural k.

hometan

^00

TRAV

E L

hornet an will neither accept from a Chriftian,

nor return the falute of Salam-alai-k

health
to
thee,

[k]^

on account of thd
EJlajn^

affinity

between the word Salam and

(Illamifm), the proper

name of

their religi-

gion, and Mojleni, (MulTulman) the

name of

the perfon
tation
is

who

profell'es it

the ufual falu-

only good morning, or good evenit is

ing, and

well too, if

it

be not accomi.

panied with a Djaour, Kafer, Kelb,

pious, infidel,

e.

im-

dog, expreffions to which the

Chriflians are familiarized.

The Mahomethem, by prac-

tans even

affecft

to mortify

tihng tefore them the ceremonies of their

worfl:iip.

At noon,

at

three

o'clock, and

at fun-fet, as foon as the criers

from the tops

of the minarets announce the time of prayer,

they appear at the doors of their houfes, wherCj
after

making fpread a mat

felves

their

ablution,

they

gravely

or carpet, and

turning them-

towards Mecca, crofs their arms upon

breafts,

their

ilretch

them towards

their

knees, and begin nine prollrations,

down

to

the ground, reciting the preface to the Koran.

In converfation, they frequently make a break

{k)

Or,

Si:Jam-aIa>-Kc7?i. h^c^lih to you.

Kence

the

word

SalamaleL by^

EGYPT AND
by
**

SYRIA,
" There
his
is is

401

their

profeffion of faith,

but

one God, and

Mahomet

prophet."

They
God.

talk perpetually of their religion,

and

coniider themfelves as

the only Jaithfid to

To

confute them, the Chriftians, in

affcifl

their turn,

great devotion;

and hence

that oftentation of piety

which forms one of

ficrifice,

the principal charadteriftics of the Orientals;

but the heart makes no

Chriftians
all

and the
of

retain
infults,

deep

remembrance

thefe

and only wait a favour-

able opportunity to feek their revenge.

effedis

The

of this were

vifible

in

the time of

Daher, when, proud of the prote6tion of his

minifter,
fuperiority
excefles
iliould

in

many
over

places

they

alTumed. a

the

Mahometans.

The

they
ferve

committed on that occafion

as a lefTon

to

any European
obtain
pof-

power,
feiTion

which may
of
countries

hereafter

inhabited

by Greeks

and Mahometans.

Vol.

it.

CHAP.

402

TRAVELS

ISf

CHAP.
Of property
j[
y

XXXVL

ranks ^ and conditions*

HE

Sultans having arrogated to therri-

felves,
all

by right of conqueft, the property of

of Syria, the inhabitants can
to

the lands

no longer pretend
fonal

any

real, or

even per-

property;

they have

nothing but a
a father dies,

temporary

pofTeffion.

When

the inheritance reverts to the Sultan, or his

delegate,

and the children can only redeem

the

fucceiTion

by

confiderable

fum of
to
to

Hence arifes an landed eftates, which proves

money.
culture.

indifference
fatal

agri-

In
is

the

towns,

the

poiTefiion
lefs

of

houfes

in

fome meafure
3

uncertain

and

lefs

ruinous
is

but every where the preproperty in money,

the
c:s

ference

given to
to

more

eafy

hide from

rapine of the

Defpot.

In the tributary countries, fuch as

thofe of the Druzes, the Maronites, Hafbeya,

&c.

tliere exifcs

a real property, founded

on

culioms which their petty princes dare not

violate;

on vvhich account the inhabitants are

xr>

fo attached

their eftates, that

it is

very rare
to

EGYPT AND
There
the
is

SYRIA.

403

to hear of an alienation of lands an?-ono- them.

neverthelefs one method, even under

Turkifh

government,

of fecuring
is

perpetual

iifufrvMt

which

by
is

making endowMofque.
on
con-

what

is

called

a Wakfy that

an

tuent or donation of an eftate to a

The
able

proprietor

then becomes the irrerrove-

guardian

of

his

property,

dition of a

fine,

and under the protedlion

-,

of the profeffors of the law

but this

actt

has this inconvenience, that inflead of protedling, the

men of the law

;

frequently devour

the

property

and

in

that cafe, to

whom
em-

are they

to look for

redrefs, lince the

bezzlers of the property are at the fame time

the

diflributors of juflice

For

this reafon,

thefe lawyers are almoft the only landholders,

nor do

we

fee,

under the Turkilli govern-

ment, that multitude of fmall proprietors,

who

conftitute the ftrength

and riches of the

tributary countries.

What
duced

have

faid

of conditions in Egypt,
:

will apply equally to Syria

to four or iivcj

they

may be

re-

the cultivators or pea-

fants, artifans,

merchants, military men, and

thofe

who iill

the different departments of the

law and

juridical offices.

Thefe various

clafTes

d 2

again

^4
again
others
:

TRA
the people,

V E L

N
under

may be comprehended
which
and merchants
;

two

includes the pea-

fants, artifans,

and the go-

vernment compofed of the

military,

and

legal

and

judicial officers.

According

to the prin-

ciples
fide

of their religion, the power fhould rethe latter order

j

in

but lince the dif-

po-lTeilion

of the Caliphs by their lieutenants,

dillind^ion

has

taken place between the

left

fpiritual

and temporal power, which has

only the fhadow of authority to the interpreters-

of the law

Such

is

that

of the Grand

Mufti

who reprefents the Caliph, among the Turks. The real power is in the hands of the Sultan, who reprefents the lieutenant,
(/),

or general of the
prejudice, however,

army.

That favourable
enterftill

which the people

tain for dethroned powers,

preferves to

profellbrs of the law, a credit, of

almofl:

which they
to

always avail
oppofition
;

themfelves,
is

form a
it

party of

the Sultan

awed by

at

Conllantinopie, nor

do the Pachas venture

it

too openly to thwart

in their provinces.
is

In each
Mufti,
[I)

city this

party

headed by the

who

derives his authority

figniiics

from that
which

T>.i?

term

D^cuUr of

the cafes

eouconi

religion.

of

EGYPT AND
of Conflantinople ;
ditary
his

SYRIA.
is

405

employment

here-

and not venal, which fmgle circum-

flance has preferred

more energy

in this

body

than in

all

the others.

From

the privileges
it

they enjoy, the families which com.pofe

bear a confiderable refemblance to our nobility,

although

its

true

type

be the army.

They refemble
and even our

alfo

our magiftracyj our clergy,

they are the only

citizens, as

perfons In that country

rents.
artifans,

who

live

on

their
the.

From them
and

to

the peafantry,
is

traders, the defcent

fudden,

yet,

as

the condition of thefe three dalles

true ftandard of the
I

form the

police

and
par-

power of an empire,
jbrm jufl ideas

fhall

feledl the

ticulars heft calculated to enable the reader to

CHAP.

42)6

TRAVELS

IN

CHAP.
State of the Peafants

1
XXXVII.
and of Agrlculure.

In

Syria,

and even throughout the Turkifli

like the other inhabi-

empire, the peafants,

tants,

are

deemed Jlavcs of

the

Sultan

but this term only conveys the meaning of

our w^ord fubjeSls.
lives

Though

mafter of their

^nd

properties, the Sultan does

not

fell

men; he
ipot.

does not limit

them

to a

certain

If

he bellows
it is

an apanage on fome
as in Ruffia

grandee,

not

faid,

and Po-

land, that he gives five hundred or a thou-

fand

peafants

in a

word, the peafants arc

th.e

opprelfed by the tyranny of

government,

but not degraded by teouil fervitudc.

When

Sultan Selim had conquered Syria,

the
colled:ion
a

in order to render

of the refingle terIt

venue more
ritorial

eafy,

he

eflabliflied

tribute

called

the

Jiiiri.

fhould

feem, that this Sultan, notwithftanding the

ferocity of his

character, underftood the

im-

portance

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

407

portance of favouring the Hufbandman, for

the miri, compared with the extent of the

lands,
it
is

an

infinitely

moderate impoft;
time in vyhich
it

anci

was the more

fo at the

was

fixed, as Syria

was then

better peopled than

at prefent,
trade, as
it

and perhaps
lay

alfo poiTefTed a greater

on the moft frequented route

ufe having been yet

to India,

little

the paffage

by the
tax

made of Cape of Good Hope.

prepare a
dejiar,

That

this

might be colledled regularly,

to

Selim gave orders

regifter, in

or
vil-

which the contingent of each

fct

lage Ihould be
bliilied

down.

In fhort, he efta-

the miri, at an invariable rate, and

it

or.dered

fhould neither be augmented nor

diminifhed.

Moderate
it

as

it

was

in

its

original eftablilhment,
preffive to the people
^

could never be op-

but by abufes inherent

in the conftitution of the

Turkifh governhave found

ment, the Pachas and

the fecret of rendering
to violate the

their agents
it

ruinous.

Not daring

law

ellabliilied

by the Sultan

refpeding

the immutability of the impoil,

they have introduced a multitude of changes,

which, without the name, produce

cfteds of an augmentation.

all

the

Thus, having
the

d 4

408

TRAVELSIN
greatefl:

the

part of the

land

at

their

diil*

pofal, they clog their cOxiceffions

with burhalf,

thenfome conditions; they exadl the

nay even two

thirds, of the crop;

they
fo

mo-

nopolize the feed

and the

cattle,

that the

cultivators are under the neceffity of pur*,

chafing from them at their

own

price.

The

harvefl oyer, they cavil about loffes, and pre-

tended robberies, and as they have the power

in
their

hands,

they
If

carry off
feafon

what they
fails,

think
ftill

proper.

the

they

exad

the fame fum, and to pay

them-

felves,

expofe every thing the poor peafant

fale.

poUeffes to

Happily, his perfon at

leaft

remains

free,

for the

Turks

are ignorant of

the refinement of imprifoning for debt the

man who

has no longer any property.

To

thefe cpnflant opprefTions are added a thou-

fand accidental extortions.

Sometimes the

whole
fome

village

is

laid

under contribution for

real or

imaginary offence ; and fometimes

a fervice of a
fent
is

new kind

is

introduced.

pre-

exa(^ed on the accefllon of each goveris

nor j a contribution of grafs

Jii

demanded

for

horfes,
:

and barley and ftraw for

mi|fl:

his caall

valiers

they

provide, likewife, for

the

EGPYT AND
the foldiers

SYRIA.
who

40^

who

pafs, or

carry orders,

and the governors take care to multiply thefc

commiflions which are a faving to them, but

The villages Lawend who appears he is tremble at every a real robber under the name of a foldier; he enters as a conqueror, and commands as a
inevitable ruin to thepeafants.
;

mafter: Dogs, Rabble

-,

bread, coffee, tabacco^

I fnuji

have

barley^

muji have 7mat,

kills

If he

cafts his eyes

on any poultry, he

them i
called

and when he takes

fult to

his departure, adding in-

tyranny, he demands

what

is

kera-el-dars,

the hire of his grinders.

In

vain do the peafants exclaim againft this injuftice; the fabre impofes filence,

Juilice

is

remote and

difficult

of accefs

-,

nay,
is

compoorer

plaints are even dangerous.

What
?

the con-

fequence of all thefe depredations

clafs

The

of inhabitants ruined, and unable any

longer to pay the miri, become a burthen to

the village, or
miri
is

fly

into

the cities: but the

to be levied
f.ills

unalterable,

and the fum

muft be found fomewhere,

though

their portion

on the remaining inhabitants, whofe burthen,

at
iiril

light,

now becomes

infuD-

portablQ.

If they are vifitcd by a

two years
drought

^10

TRAVELS
j

IN
village
it

drought and famine,

ruined and abandoned

the whole

is

but the tax

fhould

have paid

is

levied

on the neighbouring lands.

They

proceed in the fame manner with the

Its

Karadji of the Chiiflians.

amount having
they were
firfl:

been eilimated

at

the time

numbered,
merous.
tation
is

it

mufl always produce the fame,

lefs

though thofe who pay fhould be

nu-

Hence

it

happens that

this capifive

fometimes carried from three,

piafiers, at

and eleven

which

it

was

firfl

fixed

to thirty-five

and

forty ^

which
it is

abfolutely
raifed,

impoverlfhes thofe on
obliges

whom

and
in

them
are

to leave the country.

Thefe

burthens

more
are

efpecially

opprefilve

the countries beftowed as an appanage, and

in thofe

which

expofed

to

the Arabs.
augr-

In the former, the Titulary, greedy to

rnent his revenue,
his Lefi^ee to
delegates full
taxes,

power
and he

to
is

augment the

well feconded by the avidity of the fubalterns.

Thefe men, refining on the

arts

of

wringing money from the people, have contrived to impofe duties

on every commodity
entries,

brought

to market,

on

the convey-

ance of goods,

and even the biirthen of an

afs.

EGYPT AND
afs.

SYRIA.

41s

It is

remarked that thefe exadions have

made

a rapid progrefs, efpecially in the laft

forty years,

from which time they date the

and
the

decUne of agriculture, the depopulation of

the country,

diminution

in

the

quantity of fpecie
ple.

carried to

Conftantino-

With

refped: to the Bedouins, if they

;

are at war, they pillage as enemies

at peace,

and

if

devour every thing they can find as

guefts; hence the proverb.

Avoid the Bedouin

whether friend or enemy.

The

leaft

wretched

of the peafants,

are thofe

of the countries
ftipulated

which
fum,
as

raife
is

themfelves a certain

done by the Druzes,

yet

the

Kefra-

ouan, Nablous, &c.

liable

even there they are

to be opprefTed

and impoverifhed by
is

various
ftruftive

abuies.
to

But nothing
than
the

more deand
counwant of

Syria,

fhameful
in

exceffive
try.

ufury
the

cuftomary
pealants

that

When

are in
cattle,

money

to purchafe grain,

&c. they

can find none but by mortgaging the whole,

or part, of their future crop, greatly under
value.
its

The

danger of letting money appear

all

clofcs the

hands of

by

whom
it

it is

poffeiT-

ed

and

if it is parted

with

mufl be from
the

4iife

T RAV
moderate
is

E L

N
3

the hope of a rapid and exorbitant gain

mofl:
intereil
is

th^

twelve
it

per cent,
rifes

the ufual rate

twenty, and

frequently

as high even as thirty.

From all thefe caufes we may eafily conceive how miferable muft be the condition They are every where of the peafants.
reduced
to a little
flat

cake of

barley or

dourra, to onions, lentil?, and water.

are fo little

They
de^

acquainted with dainties, that

oil,

they efleem ftrong

licacies.

and rancid

fat as

Not

to lofe any part of their corn,

forts

they leave in
tares

it all

of wild grain, evea

vertigoes,

fm)) which occafion

and dim-

nefs of light for feveral hours, as I have

felf experienced.

my-

In the mountains of Lein time of dearth, they

banon and Nablous,

gather the acorns from the oaks, which they

eat, after boiling or roafling then>

on the

aflies.

The

truth of this has been authenticated to

the Druzes, by perfons

me among
themfelves
therefore

who

hav^

made
it

ufe

of them.

We
more

mufl

no longer ace ufe the poets of hywill only be the

Ziwan,
dif-

perbole; but

(7n) In Arabic

ilCuU

EGYPT AND
ficult to believe that
aire

SYRIA.

413

the golden age was the

of abundance.
a natural confequence of this
is

By

mifery,

the art of cultivation

rable ftate;

in

the moil: deplois

the

hufbandman

deflitute

of

inftruments, or has very bad ones; his plough

is

frequently no

more than the branch of

is tilled

a tree, cut below a bifurcation, and ufed with-

out wheels.

The ground
rarely

by

alTes,

and cows,
fpeak too

by oxen; they would beriches; beef

is

much

therefore very
it

fcarce in Syria and Egypt, where, beiides,

is

always lean and bad, like

all

the meat of

hot countries.

In the

diflridts

expofed to

the Arabs, as in Paleftine, the countryman

mufl fow
reaped,

with

his

muiket

in

his

hand.
it

Scarcely does the corn turn yellow, before

is

and concealed

in

Matmoiire:, or
litle

fubterraneous caverns.
is

As

as poUible

employed for feed corn, becaufe they fow no more than is barely neceffary for fubfiftence;
is

in

a word,

their

whole induflry

limited
;

to

a fupply

of their immediate
bread, a

wants

and

to procure a little

few
of

onions, a wretched blue fhirt, and a bit

woollen

4T4

TRAV
much

E L

N
necefTafyi

woollen

labour

is

not

The
at

peafant lives therefore in diflrefs; but

lenil

he does not enrich

is

his
its

tyralnts,

and the avarice of defpotifm

niihment.

own

pu

CHAP.

EG Y PT AND SYRIA.

415

CHAP.
Of the
J.

XXXVIII.
and Commerce^

ArttfmiSy Traders ^

HE

clafs

of

men who

give value to

com-

modities,

by manufa(5turing them, or bringis

ing them into circulation,

in Syria, as that

not fo

ill

treated
-,

which produces them

is,

the

reafon of
artifans

which

that the property of the

and
is

traders,

condfling in

perfonal
fcrutiniz-

cffeds,

more concealed from the

which, the

ing eye of government than that of the peafants; befides

artifts

and mer-

chants, collecfled in the towns, efcape

eafily,

more
of

in

the crowd,

from the

rapicity

their rulers.

This

is

one of the principal

of
the

caufes
in

of the

populoufnefs

towns

Syria
in

and

even

throughout
the

Turkev.
cities

While
in
try,

other

countries,

are

fome meafure the overflow of the counthere

they are the

efFe(fl

oi

its

clefcr-

tion.

The

peafants, expelled

from

their vil-

lages, fly thither for refuge,

and

find in

them

tranquillity

and even a degree of eafe and

plenty.

4i5
plenty.

TRAVELS
The Pachas
are

IN

attentive to this laft

more particularly article, as on it depends

their perfonal fafety; for befides the diate effeds of a -fedition,

fatal to

imme-

which might be them, the Porte would not pardon

them

for endangering the fafety of the

em-

pire, for

want of fupplying the people with

bread.

They

take

care

therefore

to keep

proviiions cheap in all the principal towns,

and

efpecially in

that in
it

which they
is

refide;
felt

if there

be a dearth,

always

leafl:

there.

In cafe of a failure in the harveft,

they prohibit the exportation of grain, and

oblige every perfon
it

who

poflelTes any, to fell

at the price they fix

if
it

under pain of death;

and
for

there be none in the province, they fend

to other countries, as
in

was the

cafe at

Damafcus
the

November 1784.
on
all

The Pacha
permitted

placed guards

the roads^

Arabs to pillage every carriage going

out of the country, and fent orders into the

Hauran,

to

empty
the

all

the Matmoures,

fo

that while

peafants

were dying with

of Damaf-

hunger

in the villages, the people

cus paid for their bread but two paras, or two

fols

and a

half,

(one penny

farthing), the
it

Fremch pound, and thought

dear even at
that

EGYPT AND
part
is

SYRIA.
was not

417

that price; but as in the political machine no

independent of the

reft, it

poffi-

ble to give fiich a mortal

wound

to agriculture,
arts

without
merce.
details,

its

being

felt

by the

and coma

The

reader will judge

from

few
as

whether the government be not

negligent in this as in every other particu-.

lar

Commerce
manner
ftate

in

Syria, confidered
it is

as to the
in that

in

which

carried on,

is ftill

of infancy which charafterizes barba-

rous ages and uncivilized countries.

Along

the whole coaft there

is

not a harbour capa-

ble of admitting a veftel of four hundred tons,

nor are the roads fecured by

tefe

forts.

The Malof
clofe

corfairs formerly availed themfelves

this

want of
the

vigilance,

to

make
as the

prizes

in

with the fhore; but

inhabitants

made
for

European merchants refponfible

J[>ach

accidents, France has obtained

from
{0

the order of Malta a prohibition to their corfairs

from appearing within fight of land;

that the natives coafting trade,

may

peaceably carry on their

is

which

tolerably brifk,

from

Latalcia to Yafa.

In the interior parts of the

country, there are neither great roads nor canals,

nor even bridges over the greater part

II.

Vot.

Eq

of

.ii>

TRAVELS
may be
in winter.

IN

of the rivers and torrents, however neceflary

they

Between town and

town, there are neither pofts nor public conveyance. The only convenience of this kind is the
T^artar courier, who

comes from Conftantinople

to

Damafcus, by way of Aleppo. This courier

but
firll

has no relays but in the large towns, at very

great diflances
;

in cafe

of need he

may dif-

mount

the very

horfeman he meets.

He

leads with him, according to the

cuflom of the

Tartars, a fecond horfe in hand, and has fre-

quently a companion for fear of accidents.

The communication between one town and

another
is

maintained by carriers, v^ho have no

fixed time of departure.

This

arifes

from the

abfolute neceffity of forming troops, or cara-

vans; nobody travels alone, from the infecurity

of the roads.

One muft wait

for feveral

travellers

who are

going to the fame place, or

take advantage of the pallage of fome great

man, who aiiumes the office of prote(5tor, but is more frequently the opprefTor of the caravan.
Thefe precautions
are,

above

all,

neceffary in

the countries expofed to the Arabs, fuch as

Pd.lel1inc,

and the whole frontier of the

defert,

and even on die road from Aleppo toSkandaroon,

on account of the Curd robbers.

In
the

EGYPT AND
Latakia and
Carmel,

SYRIA.
coafl,

419

the mountains, and on the

between

we

niay

travel

with

more
far

fafety

-,

but the roads in the mountains

the inhabitants are fo

are extremely bad, as

from

levelling

them, they endeavour to

in order, as they their defire to in-

render
fay,

them more rugged,

Turks of

to cure the

troduce their cavalry.

It is

remarkable, that v/e never fee either

or a cart in all Syrian

waggon

which

arifes,

no doubt, from the appreheniion of having

them
thing

feized

by the minions of government,

lofs at

and fufFering a great

is

one Uroke. Every

alfes,

conveyed on the backs of mules,

;

or camels
here.

all

which animals
form.er are

are excellent
in the

The two

employed

mountains, and nothing can equal their addrefs in climbing

and Hiding over the

flopes

of the craggy

rocks.

The camel

is

more

made ufe of in
lefs,
is

the plains, becaufe he confames

and

carries
(tven.
is

more.

His ufual burthen

iifty

about

hundred and

pounds.
to give

His food

every thing

you chufe

him
and

ftraw, brambles,

pounded

dates, beans,

barley,
as

&c.

With

a fmgle

pound of food,

much

water in a day, he will travel for

In
the whole
r.

weeks together.

way from
Cairo

420

TRAVELS IN
is

Cairo to Suez, which

a jouriney of forty

or forty-fix hours, including the time allowed

for refl, they neither eat nor drink; but thefe
fallings,

repeated, exhaufl

them
breath

as

well as

other

animals.,
foetid.

Their

then
is

bevery

comes

Their ordinary pace

in an hour.

flow, not exceeding thirty-four or thirty-fix

hundred yards
prefs

It

is

needlefs to

them, they go no quicker; but by allowrefl,

ing them to

they will travel from fifteen

to eighteen hours a day.

There
cities,

are

no inns any where; but the

villages,

and commonly the

have a large

building called a Kan, or Kervan-ferai,

ferves as an

which
Thefe

afylum for

all travellers,

houfes of reception are always built without

the precindls of the towns, and confiil of four

wings round a fquare court, which

ferves

by

way of

inclofure

for the beafls of burden.

The
The
rell.

lodgings are cells, where you find nothing

but bare walls, dufl, and fometimes fcorpions.

keeper of this

Kan

gives the traveller the

key and a mat; and he provides himfelf the

He

muil:, therefore, carry

with him his

bread
this

bed, his kitchen utenfils, and even his provifions; for frequently not even
is

to

be found in the villages.

On

account
the

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

421

the Orientals contrive their equipage in the

mofl fimple and portable form.

gage of a

The bag-

man who

wiflies to

be completely

provided, confifts in a carpet, a matrafs, a

blanket,

two faucepans with

lids,

contained

within each other; two dilhcs, two plates,

and a coffee-pot,
fmall

all

of copper, well tinned; a

fait

wooden box

for

and pepper

fix

coffee cups, without handles, in

a leathern
fuf-

box; a round leathern

table,

which he
;

pends from the faddle of his horfe

leathern
ter,

fmall

bottles, or

bags for
(if

oil,

melted but-

water and brandy,

the traveller be a

Chriftian) a pipe, a tindcr~box,a

cup of cocoaCyprus
with a
thenr. I

nut, fome rice, dried

cheefe,
roaffer,

raifiiis,

dates,

and above

all,

coffee-berries,
to

and wooden mortar

pound

am

thus particular to prove, that the Orien-

tals are

more advanced than we,

its

in the art

of

difpenfmg with
is

many thmgs; an
ufe.

art

which

not without

Our European merchants

journeys, therefore, arc

are not content-

ed with fuch limple accommodations.

Their

veiy expeniive, aid

confequently not frequent; but even the richeil

natives of the

country

make no

difficulty in

paffing part of their lives in the

manner

e 3

have

i,%%

TR
Cairo,
is

A V E L

N
Conftantinople,
their fcience
is
\

have defcribed, on the roads of Bagdad, Baf^

fora,

and

even

of

Travelling

their education,

and

to fay

of any

man he

is

merchant,

to

pronounce him a

traveller.

They

find

in it

the advantage of purchafing their goods at

the

fifft

hand, procuring them

at a

cheaper

rate,

enfuring their fafety by efcorting

them

themfelves; preventing

many
fhort,

accidents, and

obtaining feme abatement of the numerous

tolls

They

learn, in

to

underfland

weights and meafures, the extreme diverfity

of which renders theirs a very complicated

profeilion, fince each

town has

its

peculiar

weight, which, under the fame denomination,

differs

from that of another. The Rotle of Alepfix

po weighs about
of Damafcus
Saide
lefs

pounds, Paris weight; that

five

and one quarter; that of

the drachm,

than five; thatof Ramla near feven,

is

The
is

Derhe?J2 alone, that

firil

which
is

the

element of thefe weights,

the

fame eyery where.

lefsi

The

long meafures vary

only two are known, the Egyptian cucubit of Conflan^

(Draa MafriJ, and the tinople fDraa StamboiiU),

bit

Coin

is flill

more

fixed;

and you

may

trato

vel over the

whole empire from Kotchim

Afouan,

EGYPT AND
its

SYRIA.
value.

323

Afoiian, without experiencing any change in

denomination

or

its
is

The mofl
called alfo
It

fimple of thefe coins

the Para,

a Mediny a Fadda, a Kata, or a M.jria.

is

of the
is

fize

of an Englifli

filver

threepence,

and

only worth

five liards

(a little

above

a halfpenny).
iively pieces

After the para, follow fucceffive,

of

ten,

and twenty paras

then the Zolata,

thirty;

or JJhte,
called

which

is

worth
or

the

Fiafire,

Kerfh-afadi,

Piaflre of the Lion,

worth

forty paras, or fifty

French

fols

(two

(hillings

and a penny); and

;

which is mofl generally ufed in commerce and,

laftly,

the Abon-Kelb, or Piafter of the

is

Dog,

which
allov,

worth

fixty paras.

All thefe coins

are filver, but

with fuch a mixture of copper

is

that the abou-kelb

fix livres,

as

laree as

crown of
penny).

though

its

value be only

four livres five fols (Three and fixpence half-

They

bear no

image,

becaufe of

the prohibition of the Prophet, but only the

cypher of the Sultan on one

other thefe words
tinents,
t-ivo
:

fide,

and on the
tvjo

Sultan
(i.
e.

cf the

Con-

Kakan

[nj,

Lordy'

cf the

Seas, the

Sultan, Son of the

Sultan

N.

(k)

Kakan

is

a Tartarian word.

ftruck

424

TRAVELS
(Cairo)
;

IN
at

|
*

jiruck at StamhouU

(Conilantinople), or
are the only

Mafr

which
a mint.

two

cities

where there

is

The

gold coins are the fequin, called Da-^

;

hab, or piece of gold

houby or

and

alfo

Zahr-Maha"
It
is

Well- beloved Flower.

worth

three piaftres of forty paras,

ten fols (fix {hillings
lialf fequin
is
is

or feven iivres
;

and three-pence)

the

only worth fixty paras.

Fcndoucli,

There

like wife a fequin, called

which
i

is

worth one hundred and feventy paras

very rare.
thofe of the
Befides thefe coins,

but

it is

which

jire

whole Turkifh empire, fome

of the European fpecie has as

fuch are the
filver

much
The
to

currency i

Dollars of

Germany, and
dollars arc

the gold lequins of v'enice.

worth

in Syria

from ninety

ninety-

two

paras, and the fequins

iive to tv.'o

from two hundred and

Thefe two

hundred and eight.

coins are worth from eight to ten paras

in Egypt.

more

The

Venetian fequins are

iinenefs

in great

requeft

from the
pracflice

of

their

ftandard,

and the

they have
trinkets.

of

employing

them

for

wcmens
is

thefe trinkets does nut

The falHon of require much art; the

in

piece of gold

fimply pierced,

order to

iufpend

it

by

a chain, likewife of gold,

which
flows

EGYPT AND
flows
there

SYRIA.
The more
chain,

425

upon the

breafl.

fequins

are attached

to

this

and the

greater the
is
is

number of
thought to

thefe chains, the

woman
ranks.

more be ornamented. This

and the emulation of
peafants,

the favourite luxury,

all

Even the female

for
j

want of gold, wear

but the

piaflres or fmallcr pieces

women

of a certain rank difdain

filver;

they will accept of nothing

but fequins of

Venice, or large Spanidi pieces,

does.

and crufathree

Some of

thera wear
fla:,
-as

two or

hunedge

dred, as well lying

other,

ftrung one on an*at the

:

and hunsj near the forehead,

It is a real

of the head-drefs.

load

but they

do not think they can pay too dearly for the

fatisfadion of exhibiting this treafure at the

public

bath,

before

croud of

rivals,

to

awaken v/hofe jealoufy

pleafure.

conilitutes their chief

The

effed;

of this luxury on

com-

merce,

is

the withdrawing confiderable fums

from
that

circulation,

which remain dead;

lou:

befides,

when any of
ufe,

thefe pieces return into their

com-

mon
The

having
it

weight by being
to

pierced,

becomes necelTary

weigh them.
is

pra(fllce

of weighing money
all

general

in Syria,

Egypt, and
effaced,
is

Turkey.
i

No piece,
the mer-

however

refufed there

chant

426

TRAV

E L

N
it,

chant draws out his

in the days of
his fepulchre.

fcales

and weighs

as

Abraham, when he purchafed

In confiderable payments, an
is

agent of exchange

fent for,
rejecfts

who

counts
falfe

paras by thoufands,

pieces

of

money, and weighs

all

the fequins, either fe-

parately or together.

Almofl the whole commerce of

nians

Syria

is

in

the hands of the Franks, Greeks, and

:

ArmeJev/s.
it ;

formerly

it

was engrofied by the

take
little

The Mahometans
by the
gined

part in

not
it

that they are prevented from engaging in

prejudices of their religion, or

by in-

dolence, as fome political writers have ima:

but from the obflacle^ thrown in their

their
its

way by

own government.

The

Porte,

conflant to

ufual fyftem, inftead of giving

a decided preference to the TurkifhTubje(5ls,

finds
it

more

lucrative to

fell

their rights

and

induftiy to foreigners.

Some of

the

Euro-

pean

flates

have, by treaties, obtained a di-

minution of cuftom-houfe duties to three per cent, while the merchandife of the fubjeds of the Sultan pays ftridly
ten,
or,

when

favoured, feven per cent. Befides this, the duties

once paid
to

in

any port, the Frank

is

not liable
cafe
is

pay a fecond time in another.

But the

EGYPT AND
is 'diiFerent

SYRIA.
it

427

with the Ottoman fubjed:.

The

Franks, too, having found

convenient to

employ Latin Chriftians

and they

as agents,

have pro-

cured them a participation of their privileges,

are

no longer fubjed:

to the

power of

the Pachas, or amenable to Turkifh juflice.

They cannot be plundered ; and whoever has

a commercial procefs with them, mull: plead
before the European conful.

advantages,

is it

furpriiing

With fuch difthat the Mahometo their ri-

tans fliould relinquiih

vals
?

commerce

Thefe agents of the Franks are known

Levant under the name of Baratary
-,

in the

"Drogtnans
ters

that

is,

privileged

Interpreis

(0),

The

barat,

ox privilege,

a pa-

tent,

of which the Sultan makes a prefent to

the ambaifadors residing at the Porte.

For-

merly thefe ambaifadors,

prefents of

in their turn,

made
each

them

to particular perfons in
lall

fadory

but within the

twenty years they

it is

have been made

cerative

to underfland

more

Ulis

to

fell

them.

The
is

prefent price

(0)

An

interpreter in Arabic

called

Terdjefnan, of

which our old writers have made Truchement.

it is

in Egypt

pronounced Tergoman
the

of which the Venetians have

made Dragomano^ and

c

French converted into Drogman.

from

4iS

TRAVELS
five to fix

IN
(two hundred
pounds).
are

from

thoufand

livres

or two hundred and

fifty

Each

AmbalTador has

fifty,

which

renewed on

the death of the pofieflbr, and form a pretty

confiderable perquifite.

France has the

greateft trade to Syria

of

any European nation.

in five principal articles
:

Her imports
i fi:,

confifi:

The
:

cloths of

Languedoc

2dly,
:

Cochineal from Cadiz

3dly, Indigos

4thly, Sugars

And,

5thly,

Weft

India coffee,

which

is

in great requeft

with the Turks, and which they mix with

that of Arabia,

more efteemed
thefe

indeed, but too

high priced.

To

muft be added hardtin,

ware, caft iron, fheet lead,

foaps,

Lyons

laces,

&c.
returns confift almoft wholly in cot-

The

tons, either fpun or raw,

or manufactured
filks
;

into coarfe ftuffs

-,

in

fome

of Tripoli,
in

the others being prohibited

in gall nuts,

copper and wool, which are brought from

other countries to Syria.
as

The

Fadlories, or

we

call

them,

EcMks fj)J,

of the French,
are

(p)

This whimfical name of Echelles

(in Englifh ladders)

Itar.

was adopted by

the inhabitants of Provence, from the

lian

EGYPT AND
are feven in

SYRIA.
Saide,

42^

number,

viz.

Aleppo, SkandaAcre,

roon,

Latakia, Tripoli,

and

P.amla.
to

The fum

of their imports amount

(250,000/.) viz.

6,000,000 of

livres

For Aleppo and Skandaroon,

Saide and Acre,
-

3,000,000 2,000,000

Tripoli and Catagie,

400,000

Ramla,

600,000
6,000,000

Total,

All this commerce pafTes through the fmgle

channel of Marfellles,
exclulive
privilege

which

poflefTes
to,

the

of fending fhips

and

receiving

them from, the Levant, notwithwhich

furnifhes

ftanding the remonftrances of the Province of

Languedoc,
commodities.

the
is,

principal

Strangers, that

the natives

of Turkey, are prohibited from carrying on

their

commerce, except through the medium

Marfeilles fadors, eftablifhed in their

of

thfe

country.

This prohibition was

abolifhed

Ihn fcala^ a corruption of the Arabic word

nifies

kalla,

which

fig-

a place proper to receive veffels,

a road, a harbour.

At

prefent the natives fay, as the Italians, fca'dj rada.

in

430
in

TRAVELS

IN

1777, for feveral reafons fet forth in the ordinance; but the merchants of Mar-

made fuch remonftrances, that, fince the month of April, 1785, matters have
feilles

again been placed upon their former footing.

It is for
is

France

to

determine

how far

this trade

to her intereft.

Confidered relatively to the

it

Turkifh empire,

may

be averred, that the

commerce of the Turks with Europe and India,

more detrimental than advantageous. For the articles exported being all raw un wrought mais

terials,

the empire deprives

itfelf

of

all

the adits

vantages to be derived from the labour of

own

fubjedls.

On

the other hand, the

com-

modities

imported from Europe and India,

being articles of pure luxury, only ferve to

increafe the diffipation of the rich,

and the

fervants of government, whilH:, perhaps, they

aggravate the wretched condition of the people,

and the

clafs'of cultivators.

Under a governproperty,

ment v/hich pays no

defire of multiplying
irritate

refpe(5t to

the

enjoyments, cannot but

irregular paffions,

and increafe op-

preflion.
furs,

In order to procure more clothes,

laces, fugars, fhawls,

and India goods

filks,

there mufl be

more money, cotton, and

and

EGYPT AND
and more extortions.
tage

SYRIA.'

431-

momentary advanflates
',

may have

accrued to the

which

furnifh thefe objects of luxury

but are not

the advantages of the prefent

moment bor?

rowed from the wealth of future times

can

And

we hope long

to carry

on an advantageous

commerce with

a country
?

which

is

precipi-

tately haftening to ruin

CHAP.

432

TRAV

E L

I 14

CHAP.
Of
the Arts, Sciences,

XXXIX.
and Ignorance of
the

People,

JL

HE

arts

and trades in Syria afford room

Firft,

for

many

considerations.

The

differ-

ent kinds of

them
-,

are infinitely lefs

numerous
In the

than with us

we can

fcarcely reckon twenty,

even including the mofl necellary.

firft

place, the religion of

fort

Mahomet having
figure,

profcribed every

of image and

there exifts neither painting,

nor fculpture,

nor engraving, nor any of thofe numerous profeflions

which depend on them.

The

Chrif-

tians alone purchafe,

for the ufe

of their

churches, fome pidlures of the Greeks at

flantinople,

Con-

who,

in point of tafle, are real

Turks.

In the fecond place,

a multitude of

our trades are rendered unnecefi^ary, from the

fmall quantity of furniture ufed by the Orientals.

The whole

inventory of a wealthy

family confifts in

a carpet for the feet, in

mats, cufhions,
cloths, copper

niatreffes,

fome fmall cotton

platters for the

and wooden

tabki a few flewing pans, a mortar,

a port-

able

GY

AND
All

SYRIA.
our
apparatus
chairs,
;

433

able mill, a

little

porcelain, and

fome plates
of

of copper
tapeftry,
glaiTes,

tinned.

wooden
defies,

bedfheads,

ilools,

bureaus, clofsts

our
in a

buffets

with their
all
ries

plate,

and table ferviccs;

them,

word*
no-

our cabinet and upholilery work, are luxutotally

is

unknown
fimple
as

to

fo that

thing

fo
is

a
-

Turkidi
that thefc
life

removal.
cuiloip.s

Pococke

of opinion

orio;inate in the

wanderin?

formerly led

by the anceflors of thefe nations;

have had
they have
fufficient

but

tliey

time to forget this fince

fettled;

become

and we fhould
it

rather fearch for the cauf^ of

ture of their government,

in the na-

which reduces eveP7

necelTary.

thing to what
cloathing
is

is

ftridlly

Their

not m^ore complicated, though

expenlive.

much more
buckles,

They
rufiles,

are

Grangers

to the hats, perukes, hair-dreillng, buttons, flocks, laced

and

all

that

fuperfluity

with which we are furrounded.

filk fhirts,

Cotton or

which even the Pachas

wTiflbands,

do not count by dozens, and which have

neither rufties

nor

nor plaited

collars; an enorm^ous pair of breeches, whicli

ferve alfo

by v/ay of flockings ; a handkerchief

;

for the head

another round the waifl, with

Vol.

II.

Ff

the

434

TRAVELS

IN
drefs of the

the three lar?e folds of cloth and calico I

have mentioned in defcribing the

Mamlouks, compofe the whole wardrobe of

the Orientals.
are goldfmiths

The

only articles of luxury

is

work, which
ornaments

confined to

women s

trinkets, faiicers for coffee

wrought

like lace,

the

of their harnefs,

their pipes,

and the

lilk fluffs

of Aleppo and
the ftreets

Damafcus.

In paillng through

of the towns, you meet with nothing but

a

number of
of

beaters

of cotton on tenters,
barbers
to

retailers

fluffs

and mercery,

fliave the head,

tinners,
fellers

lockfmiths, fadlers^
little

and

cfi^ecially

of

loaves,

hard

ware, grain, dates, and fweetmeats, but very

few butchers, and thefe

alfo in the great

ill

fupplied.

There are

towns a few wretched gun-

fmiths, v/ho can only repair fire-arms, for not

one of them can caft a

piilol barrel; as

for

gun-powder, the frequent occafion they have

to

make

ufc of

it,

has excited the induftry of

the peafiiits in general to

is lio
iii

make

it,

but there

public manufadiury.
tlie

villages,

the inhabitants, limited to

arts

niere necellaries,

have no

but thofe with-

out wl^.ich they cannot fubfifl; every one en-

deavours to ilipply his

own

wants, that he

inav not be obliged to (hare

what he has with

others.

EGYPT AND
Others.

SYRIA.
are

435

Each family manufadtures

with

the coarfe cloathed.

cottons

which
its

they

Every houfe has

the

portable mill, with

which
thefe

women
is

grind the barley or the Dourra

for their llidenance.

The

flour

from

mills

coarfe,
ill

and the

little

round loaves
;

made of it,
quired.
I

leavened and badly baked

life,

but
re-

they preferve

and that

is all

which

is

have already obferved

their

how

fimple

and cheap
are.

inftruments of hufoandry

In

the mountains

they do not prune

;

the vines, and they no where ingraft trees

every thing, in fhort, reminds us of the fimplicity

of ancient
day,

times,

which,

pofiiblv,

as

at this

was only the ignorance of

enquire
the reafon

poverty.
their

When we

of

want of induftry, the anfwer is uniformly the fame: " It is good enough: That is fuf**
**

ficient:

What
They

end would

it

anfwer to do

more?"

are in the right,

fmce they

would not be permitted

their labours.

to reap the benefit of

Secondlv:

the ftate

of the
in as

arts

in

thefe

countries, and the

exercifed,
almofl:

manner

which they
they

are

are

interefling,

preferve

in every refpedt,

the difcoveries and

methods of ancient times.

For example, the

ftui^

f 2

436
ftuffs

TRAVELSIN
manufadured
;

at

Aleppo

are

not of

Arabian invention
the Greeks,

this art is

borrowed from

who

themfeives, doubtlefs, imi-

tated the. ancient Orientals.

The

dyes they

ufe are, probably, as

^^Id

as the time

of the

Tyrians, and they carry them at this day to

a perfedion not

unworthy of that people ; but

art,

the workmen, jealous of their

make an

impenetrable myftery of the procefs.

The

manner

in

which the ancients fecured the

harnefs of their horfes againft the (Irokes of

the fabre, was undoubtedly the fame which

is

now made
head

ufe of at
ftalls

Aleppo and Damafcus,

{q).

for the

of their bridles

The
is

fmall fiiver plates with

lined, hold together

which the
nails,

leather

without

and are fo

jointed,
its

that without depriving the leather of

there

pliancy,

remains no interftice for

the tdgQ of the weapon.

The cement
that of the

make ufe of, Greeks and Romans.

they
fubjevft,

is

no doubt

To make
the

(q)

On

this

Ihall obferve, that

Mamand
alfo

luuks of C::Iro exhibit every year at the procefTions of the

Caravan, coats of mail, helmets, and vizors,

all

brafTcts,

the

armour of the time of the Croifades.

There

is

a coiltiSlion of old arms in

*

the mofque of the Dervifes,

league above Cairo, on the banks of the Nile.

it

EGYPT AND
it

SYRIA.
mix with
of

437

properly^ they take care only to ufe

the

lime

when boihng;
and

they

it

one

third of fand,

another
this

aflies

and

pounded brickduft. With

com pofition they

I

form

wells,

cifterns,

and vaults, whfch the

have {ten
a

water cannot pafs through.

Anwith

gular fpecies of the latter in Paleftine that de.

ferve to

be defcribed.

The

vault

is

built

cylinders of brick, eight or ten inches long.

Thefe cylinders

are

hollow, and

two inches diameter within.

clofed, the other open.

may be about They are in

is

a flight degree tapering, the wideft end

To

form the

roof,

they are ranged by the fide of each other,

with the clofe end expofed

to

the weather:

they are faftened with plaifler of Jerufalem

or Nablous, and four
the roof of a

workmen can compleat chamber in a day. The firlt

but a coat of
effedtually
oil
it,

rains ufually penetrate it;

is

then laid over

which

keeps

the water out.

The

cracks v/ithiniide are

clofed by a layer of plaifter, and the

whole

forms a durable and very light roof.

thefe cylinders

With
tops,

they build the wails at the

edges

of the terraces

on

the

houfe

throughout Syria, to prevent the women,

who
feen.

wafh and dry

their linen

there,

from being

^ 2

438
feen.

TRAVELS
The
ufe of

IN
lately Inis

them has been

troduced at Paris; but the invention

great antiquity in the ea^L

of

We

may

affirm the

fame of the manner

of working the iron mines in Lebanon, on

account of

its

great

fimplicity.
in

It

is

the

method now employed

the Pyrenees, and

known under Forge. The

clivity.

the

name of

the

Catalonian

furnace confifts in a fort

in

of

chimney formed

the lide cf a fleep deis

The
is

funnel
fire

filled

with wood;
is

which
plied to

fet

to;

the bellows

ap-

tlie

inferior mjouth,

and the iron ore

falls

poured in from above; the metal

bottom, and
at
is

to the

taken out by the fame

is

mouth

which the
to the

fire

lighted.

Even

their in-

genious wooden Hiding locks

may

be traced

back

time of Solomon,

who
not

mentions

them

in his fong.

To

their

mufic

we muil
It

afcribe fo

high an antiquity.

does not appear to have

an earlier origin than the age of the Caliphs,

under
it

whom

the Arabs applied themfelves to

as
all

with the more ardour,

the learned

jnen of that day added the

to that of Phyfician,

title

of MuficiaUj

Geometrician and Af-

tronomer;

yet, as its principles

were borrowed

EGYPT AND
ed from the Greeks,
it

SYRIA.
in

439

might

afford matter

of curious obfervation
fcience.

to adepts

that

Such perfons are very

in the eail.

rarely to be

met with
are a

Cairo

is

perhaps the

only place in Egypt or in Syria, where there

few Shaiks
art.

who

underfland the princi-

ples of the
airs

Tliey have colledions of

which

are not noted in our

all

manner, but

written in characters,
are Perlian.

the names of

which
vocal;

They have no muiic but

in the right; for

fortheyneither knov/ nor efleem inilrumental,

and they are

fuch inflruflutes,

ments

as

they have, not excepting their

are deteflable.
to

They

are ftrangers

likewife

any other accompaniment than the unifon,

and the continued bafe of the Monochord.

They
in the

are fond of finging

with a forced voice

high

tones,,

and one muft have lungs

like theirs to fupport the effort for a quarter

of an hour.

Their

airs, in

point of character

and execution,
Spaniards.

refemble nothing

we have
more
la-

heard in Europe, except the Seguidiilas of the

Tliey have
divifions

boured even than thofe of the Italians, and

cadences and inflections of tones impoiiible to

be imitated by European

throats.

Their

performance

is

accompanied with fighs and

Ff4

geftures.

440

T RA V

E L

N
venture
to

gedures, which paint the paffions in a more

lively

manner than we

fliould

allow.
'

They may be

faid to

excel moll: in

the melancholy flrain.

To

behold an Arab

with his head inclined, his hand applied to

his ear, his eyebrows knit, his eyes languifh-

ing

to hear his plaintive tones, his lengthened

notes, his
poflible
to

fighs

and

fobs,

it

is

almofl im-

refrain
is,

from
are far

tears,

which,
bitter:

as

their expreilion

from

and

indeed they mufl certainly find a pleafure in

ihedding them, lince

among

all their

fongs,

they constantly prefer that which excites them

mofl, as
is

among

all

accompliiliments fmging

that they mofl admire.

Dancing, which with us holds an equal

rank with mufic,
is

far

from being held

This
a
it
it

in

the fame eflimation by the Arabs.

art,

among them, is branded with fhame; a man cannot pradlife

diilionoiir
(7'),

kind of

without
is

and the exercife of

only

permitted to

women.

This judgment will

appear to us fevere, but before

it, it

we condemn
in

mufl be confidered, that

The
facred

the

eailiern

(/)

dance of the Dervifes, the

motions

of which
llarSj

are

fuppofcd to imitate the revolutions of the

muft be excepted.

world.

EGYPT AND
world, dancing
as
is

SYRIA.

441

not an imitation of war,

among
;

the Greeks, nor a combination of

attitudes

graceful

and movements,

as

with

us

but a licentious imitation of the utmoft

love.

wanton nefs of
dance

This

is

the fpecies of

which,

brought from

Carthage to

Rome, announced
can manners,

the decline of her republiin

and which, fince revived

ftill

Spain by the Arabs,

the
title

fubiifts there

under

of the Fandango,

Notwithftanding
it

the freedom of our manners,

ficult,

would be

dif-

without wounding the

it
:

ear,

accurately

to defcribe

it

will be fufficient to fay that

the female dancer, with her arms extended, and

an empafTioned

air,

finging and

accompanying
flie

her fong with caftancts, which

holds be-

tween her

fingers, executes,
all

without chang-

ing her place,

thofe motions of the

body

which
nefs,

paffion itfelf carefully conceals under

the veil of night.

Such

is

their licentiouf-

that none but

profiitutes

venture

to

dance in public.
fion of excel,
it

are

Thofe who make a profefcalled Rawaziy and thofe v/ho

or pro-

affume the name of Alma,

ficients in the art.

The

moil: celebrated are

thofe of Cairo.

A late traveller,

(M.

Savary,)
;

has drawn

a flattering pid:ure of

them

but

con-

44-^

TRAVELS
in

IN
with
their

I confefs the originals

did not produce the

fame enthufiafm
naked pendent

me.

Thefe Alma,

their yellow linen, their

tawny
their

ftcins,

breafls, their

blackened eye-

lafhes, their blue lips,

and

hands ftained
of the Bac-

with henna, only reminded

me
-,

chantes of the Forcherons (f) and if we refled: that, even among the mofc poiiflied nations, this clafs of

women

retain not a little

vulgarity,

it

is

not credible,

that

amiong

a people,

where the moft fimple

arts are ftill

in a ftate of barbarifm, they can fliew

much

refinement and delicacy in one which requires

the
jiioft.

The
and

intimate connedlion between the arts

fciences, leaves

no room

to

doubt that the

latter are ftill m^ore neglected, or, to confefs the

truth, totally

unknown.
iimilarity

The
Egypt,

barbarifm of
is

Syria, as well as that of

compleat
is

and,

from the

which

ufually

found

in the different provinces of the

fame
all

empire,

we may form

the like

judgment of

the countries under the dominion of the Turks.

In vain have fome perfons denied this ailer(/) Wine-houfes without

duties
;

Paris, and free

from the city

might, per-

the refort of the populace.

The

idea,

haps, be better conveyed

gate.

by

the

tzxiVi

Bacchante'i of Biliinf-

tion;

EGYPT AND
tion
i

SYRIA.
words
in

443

in vain

do they talk of
books
:

colleges, places

of

education^

and

tliefe

Turkey-

convey not the fame ideas of the Caliphs

yet to begin
is

as

udth us.

The age
and

pafl:

air.ong the Arabs,

among
at

the Turks.
neither

Thefe two
geometri-

nations

have

prefent

cians, afLronomers, muficians, nor phyficians.

we meet with one of the latter who knows how to bleed with a fleam when
Scarcely czn
;

they
or

have ordered

a cautery,

applied Are,
recipe,

prefcribed
is

fome

common
:

their

knowledge

exhaufled

and,

confequently,
is

the valet de chambre of an European

fulted as an Efculapius.

con-

Where

indeed fhould

phyficians be formed,
bliihrnents of the kind,

flnce there are

no

efla-

and anatomy
of
tlieir

is

diredly
?

repugnant

to the prejudices

religion

Aftronomy might gain more admirers, but by

aftronomy they underftand only the
difcovering the decrees of
tions
f.ite

art

of

by the mothe

of the

ftars,

and not

profound

fcience of calculating their revolutions.

The

monks of Mar-Hanna, who

Rome,
are

are poffelied of

books, and maintain a correfpondence with

not
lefs

ignorant than the

reft.
li

Never, before ray arrival among them,

ad

they heard that the earth turned round the

fun

444

TRAVELS
;

IN
;

fun

and

this opinion

was very near giving

for the

great

offence to the brotherhood

it

zealots, finding that

contradicted the

Holy

Bible, were inclined to treat

me
:

as a heretic.

Fortunately the Vicar General had good fcnfe

enough
**
'^

to

doubt, and to fay

"

Vv^ithout

blindly crediting the Franks, v/e muft not

too haflily deny
all

they

aflert

for every

**

thing they bring us, the produce of their

arts, is fo infinitely fuperior

"
*'
**

to

our own,
things

that

they
are

may

poflibly

difcover

which

beyond our ideas."

this

I efcaped

hy not taking the blame of

pothefis

novel hy-

on myfelf, but

refloring the difco-

very to our modern philofophers,

who

are

cfteemed by the monks, even at this day, as

Vifionaries.

A great difference

then fliould be

made be-

Iween the prefent Arabs, and thofe of the times of El-Mamoun, and Aroun-el-Rafchid, and it mufl be admitted that, even of them,

we have formed
fer

very

extravagant

ideas.

Their empire was too foon deflroyed to fuf-

them

to

fciences.
in

make any great progrefs in the What we fee happen in our days
flates,

fome of the European

require

proves that
eftabliflied
ii^

they

ages

to
5

become

EGYPT AND
in

SYRIA.
v/e

445

any country.

And from what

either
?

know

of the Arabian writers,

ftantly find

do we not conthe tranflators, or

them

echos

of the Greeks
is

The
is

only fcience

which

peculiar to them, and the only one that of their

they continue to cultivate,

language

but,

by the lludy

own of language, we
fpirit

mufl notunderftand that philofophicai

of

refearch which, in words, invefligates the hiftory of ideas, in order to perfed; the art by

which

they are communicated.

tans, the fludy

Among the Mahomeis

of the Arabic

only cultivated
religion
;

on account of its conned:ion with

this
**

and
is

is

in

facfl

very confined, for the Koran

the immediate

word of God

"

but, as this
its

word only
fo far as
it

retains the identity

of

nature,

correfponds with the meaning of

his

God and
greatefl

prophet,

it is

a matter of the
exa(51;

moment

to learn,

not only the

fignification

of the words

employed,
fighs

but,

likewife, the accents,

inflexions,

and

paufes, in

fliort,

all

the mofl minute niceties

;

of profody and pronunciation

fible to
is

and

it is

impofall this

form an idea
Mofques.

how

complicated

without having heard their declamation

in the

As

for

the principles

of

the

language,

thcfe of the

grammar

alone
take

446

TRAVELS

IN
Next
Is

take feveral years to acquire.

the NalwUy a part of

taught

grammar which may be

are fuperadded to

defined, the fcience of terminations foreign to

the vulgar Arabic,

which

-words, and vary according to the numbers,

cafes, genders,

and perfons.
is is

When

this

is

attained, the fludent

reckoned among the

next to be ftudied,
;

learned.

Eloquence

and that requires whole years

ters,

for the

maf-

myfterious like the Brachmans, difco-

ver the fecrets of their art only by degrees.

At

length, they proceed to the iludy of the

excelkjiiiam,
if

law and the Fakah, or Science, per

by which they mean, theology.

dies

Now,
it is

wc

confider that the perpetual objed: of thefe ftuis

always the Koran, and that

necef-

fary thoroughly to be acquainted with all the

myftical and allegorical hgnifications afcribed

to
it,

and

to

read all the commentaries and

it,

paraphrafes upon

of which there are two

firft

hundred volumes on the

refled" that it is requifite

verfe

if

we

to difpute

on thou;

fands of ridiculous cafes of confcience

as, if
it

fuch

be allowable to mix mortar with im;

pure

v^^ater

whether a man

be not in the cafe of a

to be able to

who has defiled woman

an
;

iiTue

as alfo

difcufs

the various queflions,

v/hether

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

447

whether the foul of the prophet was not created before that of Adam ; whether he did
not counfel

God

in the
;

creation
it

and what

was the counfel he gave

allowed,
that one

cannot but bo

may

pafs one's

whole

life-

time in learning a great deal,

nothing.

and knowing

As

for

the inflrudion

beflowed on the

vulgar, as the profelTors of the law do not

perform the fun(5lion of our vicars and

as they neither

priefts,

preach,

nor catechife,

nor

confefs,

it

may

be pronounced that they re-

ceive none.
coniiils

All the education of children

attending private mailers,

in

who

teach them to read the

Koran,

if

they are

Mahometans, or the Pfalms,

and a
little
:

if Chriftians,

writing, and reckoning from

me-

mory
at

this

continues

till

they arrive almoil:

manhood, when each of them chufes fome

marry and gain a
live-

profeflion, in order to

lihood.

The

contagion of ignorance

infe(fts
it is

even the children of the Franks, and

maxim
lation,

at Marfeilles,

that a Levantin
idle,

mufl be

a diilipated youth,

and without emu-

and whofe whole knowledge will be

confined to being able to fpeak feveral lan-

guages.

443

TRAV
exceptions.

E L

N
has

guages, though this rule, like

its

all others,

In examining the caufes of the general ig-

norance of the Orientals,

a late traveller, that
culties

I fhall

not fay with

diffi-

it arifts

from the

of the language, and of reading and

writing.

Undoubtedly the

difficulty

of the

dialeds, the perplexity of the charadlers, and

the defeds of their alphabet,

obflacles to inftrudlion.

multiply the

But habit furmounts

as perfect a faci-

them, and the Arabs attain

lity in

writing and reading as the Europeans

themfelves.

The

real caufe is the

poifefs,

few means

of inftrufticn they be
firfl:

reckoned the
is

among which mull: fcarcity of books. With

as this valuable af-

us nothing
liftance
5

fo

common

nothing fo general
of reading.
is

among

all

ranks

as the pra(Stice

In the Eaft, on the

contrary,

nothing

fo rare.

There

are but

two

libraries

throughout Syria, that of MarI

hanna, of which

have fpoken, and that of

Djezzar

at Acre.

The

reader has fccn

how

infignificant the former

is,

both with refpeft to

I lliall
;

the

number and the choice of its books.

feen
it

not fpeak of the latter as an eye witnefs

but

two perfons v/ho have

that
it

have affured me,

three

did not contain

more than

hundred

EGYPT AND
dred volumes
Syria, and,
;

SYRIA.

449

yet thefe are the fpoils of all

among others, of the Convent of St.

At Aleppo, only one which
the houfe of
polTefles

Sauveur, near Saide, and of the Shaik Kairi,

Mufti of Ramla.
Bitar
is

the

any

books, and thofe are aftronomical, vv^hich no-

body underflands.
hold even their
Cairo alone
is

At Damafcus
fcience in

the lawyers

own

no eilimation.

rich in books.

There

is

colledion of very ancient ones at the

of
is

El-azhar,
in daily

and

confiderable
;

Mofque number

circulation

but Chriflians are

forbid to touch them.

Twelve

years ago,

however, the monks of Mar-Hanna, delirous

of procuring feme, fent one of their number
thither
to

purchafe

them.

By

a fortunate

accident he got acquainted with an EfFendi,

with

whom

he became a favourite, and who,

wifliing to obtain
ailrology, in

from him fome

lefTons

in

which he thought him an

this

adept,

procured
fix

him fome books.

In the fpace of

months,

monk

affured

me, that up-

wards of two hundred palled through his

hands
jed:s,
;

and on

my

enquiring on what fub-

he

replied, treatifes

on grammar, the

Nahou, eloquence, and the interpretation of the Koran j but very few hiflories; or even

Vol.

II.

t^l^s.

45d
tales.

TRAVELS
He
of
fadls,

IN
From
this

had never {ecn two copies of the

Arabian Nights Entertainments.

ftate

we

are certainly authorized to

affirm, not only

that there

is

a fcarcity of

good books
any kind
is

in

the Eafl, but that books of

are very rare.

The

reafon of this

evident.

In thefe countries

every book

is

a manufcript; the writing of

ceffarily flow, difficult,

which

is

ne-

and expenfivc.
produces

The

labour of
copy.
liable

many months

but one

That mufl be without eralure, and is to be deftroyed by a thoufand acciIt

is

dents.

impoffible therefore for books to

multiply, and confequently for knowledge to

be propagated.
things

ws compare this liate of with what palTes among ourfelves, we

If

cannot but be deeply imprelfed with the advantages of printing.

vinced,

We

Ihall

even be conalone
is

on

reflexion, that this art

poffibly the
lutions,
turies,

maia fpring of thofe great revolafl

which, within the

three

cen-

have taken place in the moral fyflem

of Europe;

The

prefs,

by rendering books
a

common,

has difFufed

more equal
every
clafs
;

ihare

of knowledge

through

and,

by rapidly communicating ideas and difcoveries, has produced a more fpeedy im4
provement

EGYPT AND
"with the arts and fciences.

Y R I A.l
By
its

451

provement and more univerfal acquaintance

means,
all

thofe
fuits,

who occupy
are

themfelves in literary pura

become

body perpetually aflemprinting, every writer

bled,

who

purfue without intermiffion the

fame labours.

By

is

become
and

a public orator,

who

addreffes

himof

felf not only to his city,

to all

but to his nation,

Europe.

If in this
lofl

new

fpecies

popular alfembly he has

the advantage

of declamation and gefture

fions,

to excite the paf-

he

is

amply indemnified by that of

feled; audience,

having a more
to reafon

and being able

if

with more temperance, and

lets lively,

the
cer-

impreiiion he makes be
tainly

it is

more durable.
art

Since

the difcovery

of the

of printing, therefore, fLngle

to produce,

men

have been feen

by the mere

efFecfts

of their writings, moral revolutions in whole

nations,

and have obtained an influence over

the minds of men,

which has even awed and

of the
reigning

^ontrouled

the

authority

powers.

Another very remarkable

prefs,
is

efFeft

of

the

that

which

it

has had on hiflory.

By

giving a general and rapid publicity to fadis,

has rendered their certainty more eafy to be

afcertained;

452
afcertained

TRAVELS
;

IN
books
v/crc

whereas,

when

written by hand, the colledllon

made by one
could be
fmall

man,
feen

producing only one copy,

and

criticized

by

only a very

number of more to be
mit copies

readers

and thefe readers are the

as they

farpc(5ted,

mufl depend on
multiply and

the choice of the author.

to

If he fhould per-

be taken,

they

fpread very ilowly.

fes

In the

drop off; proofs,

mean time witnefwhich might once have

opened
to error,
is

been produced,
flart

lofe their force; contradid:ions

field is

up, and a wide

paiTion,

and mifreprefentation.
all

This
relations

the

caufe of

thofe monftrous

with

which

the hiflories of antiquity,

as well as

thofe of

Modern

Afia,
find

abound.

If

among
ftrik-

thofe hiflories

we

fome which bear

ing marks of probability, they are thofe whofe

writers were either eye-witnelfes of the facls

they relate, or public

men who wrote

truth.

to

an

enlightened people, able to contradidl them

whenever they departed from

Such

was

Casfar, the principal adtor in the events

related in his

own memoirs

fuch was Xeno-

phon, the general of the ten thoufand, v/hofe

able retreat he has fo well defcribed
:

fuch was

Folybius, the friend and companion of Scipio,

the

! :

EGYPT AND
Sallufl

SYRIA.

453

the conqueror of Carthage:

fach alfo were

been confuls

and Taeitus,

who had

Thucidides, the commander of an army, and

Herodotus, fenator, and dehverer of Halicarnaffus.

When

hiftory,

on the contrary,

is

only a colled:ion of ancient events, delivered

down by
of the fame
charader.

tradition

when

thefe

f:i(fls

are

merely colleded by individuals,

fpecies,

it is

neither

nor does
is

it

bear the fame

How

great

the difference be-

tween

the

preceding

writers

and

Livy,

Quintus

Curtius,

and

Diodorus

Siculus

Fortunately, however, for them, the countries

in
lic

which they wrote were

information might
recent
fa6ts.

civilized,
to

and pub-

ferve

guide them

refpedling

But when nations

day in

were

in a ftate

of anarchy, or groaning under

this

fuch a defpotifm as prevails at

the
eaft,

writers, abforbed in that ip-norance

and credulity which ever accompany fuch

a
(late,

might boldly commit

to
is

their

errors

and prejudices mark, that

it

hiftory;

and we may reof fuch

all

in the produdiions

ages and nations that

we meet with

the

monfters of fidion, while in poliflied periods,

and

in the

hands of original writers, the anprefent

nals of hiftory only

us with a narrativc

454
rative

TRAVELS
prefs

IN

of fadts fimilar to thofe which are dally

paffing before our eyes.

This influence of the

is

fo efficacious,

that the eflabHfhment of

imperfect as
it is,

Mar-Hanna

alone,

has already produced a fenthe Chriflians.

lible difference

among
are

The

art

of reading and writing, and even a fort

of information,

more common among

were thirty years

them
ago.

at prefent, than they

Unfortunately their outfet has been of

that kind,

which long

retarded the progrefs of

dif-

improvement, and excited innumerable

orders in Europe.

For
firft

bibles

and

religious

books being the

which proceeded from

was turned

the prefs, the general attention

towards theological difcuffions, whence refulted a fermentation

which was the fource of

If

the Schifms of England and Germany, and

the unhappy political troubles of France.

in {lead

of

tranflating

their

Buzembaum,
Nieremberg

and the mifanthropical and Didaco

difoerfed

reveries ot

Stella, the Jefuits

had printed and

morality and

books of

pradical

public utility, adapted to

the ilate of the

their

Kefraouan and the

Druzes,

labours

might have produced

even through

in thofe countries,

and

all Syria, political

confequences

which

EGYPT AND

SYRIA.

455

which might eventually have changed their whole fyftem. At prefent, all hope of fucli improvement is over, or at leaft greatly retarded
;

the

hi-fi

fervor has

been fpent on

ufelefs objeds.

Befides, the
it

monks

are poor,

and

if

Djezzar takes
their prefs.

into his head, he will

this

deftroy

To

he will pro-

bably be induced by the fanaticifm of the

profelTors of the law,

who, without very well

to dread

knowing what they have

prefs,

from the
natuits

have,
it
;

notwithftanding, conceived an
as if folly polIeiTed the

averfion to
ral inflind:

of divining what

may

prove

deflrudion.

The

Scarcity

of books,

and the want of

I

the means of information, ane then, as

jufl: faid,

have

the caufes of the ignorance of the

;

Orientals

but thefe mufl;,

:

after all,

be re-

garded merely as acceifaries

is
jftill

the radical fource

in the

government, which not only

does not encourage the propagation of

ledge, but exerts every effort to
birth.
flific it

knowin the

Under
there
is

the

adminiftration

of

the

Turks,

no profped: of obtaining

rank or fortune through the channel of the

arts

and fciences, or polite

literature.

The
cians.

talents

of the moft diflinguiflied

eometri-

g 4

4-56

TRAVELSIN
Europe,
obfcurity, or groaning beneath
If fcience, there-

clans, aftronomers, or engineers of

v/ould not preferve their poiTeffor from languiiliing in

the perfecution of tyranny.

fore,

which

itfelf is

acquired with fo

much
re-

difficulty

and labour, can only make us

gret
ger,

its inutility,
it is

and even expofe us

it.

to

danthis

better never to pofTefs

For

reafon, the Orientals are ignorant,

neceffarily be
fo,

and muft

from the fame principle

poor, as they

which makes them

with juftice to
arts
**
:

may
it

apply

fcience,

what they
will

fay of the

**

What good purpofe

*'

anfwer to

do more

CHAP.

G PYT

AND SYRIA.
XL.

457

CHAP.
Of the
of Syria,

manners and characfer of the inhabitants

Of

all

the

fubjedls

of obfervatlon

any
its

country affords, the moral charadler of

inhabitants
is

unqueilionably the mofc imit

portant; but
ledged,
cult
:

it is

at

muft likewife be acknowthe fame time the mofl diffinot fufficient to

for

it is

make
and

a baris

ren enquiry into fa6ls; the effential obje6t

to inveftigate
tions
j

their various

caufes

rela-

to difcover the

open or
fprings,

fecret,

the re-

mote or immediate
in

which produce

men

thofe habits of action

we
to

call

ners,

and that uniform difpolition

chara<fler.
it is

manof mind
in

we name
cate with

Now,

fucceed

fuch an enquiry,
the

neceffary to
to

men we wifh
in

communiknow; v/e

muft place ourfelves

order
ced,
to
feel

their

lituatlons, in

by what

they are influen-

and

the
live

confequences

which

refult;

we muft

in their' country, learn

;

their

language, and adopt their cuftoms

tions feldom complied

condi-

with by

travellers;

and

which.

458

TR A V

E L

S
flill

N
which
arife

which, even when they are,

leave to be fur-

mounted numerous

difficuhies,

from the nature of the thing itfelfj for we have not only to combat the prejudices we

may meet
ownj

in our

way, but

to

overcome our
fufficifacSts

agalnfl

which we can never be

ently on our guard, habits are powerful,

liable to

be miflaken, and error eafy.

The
with

obferver, then, fliould be circumfped:

though

not timid, and the reader, obliged to

fee

the eyes of others, fliould watch attentively

both the reafoning of his guide, and the deductions

felf.

he may be inclined to
an European arrives

draw

him-

When

in Syria, or

indeed in any part of the eaftern world, what

appears moft extraordinary to him, in the exterior

of the inhabitants,

is

the almoit total

oppofition of their manners to our

own

it

feems as

if

fome premeditated defign had debetween the people of Afia

termined to produce an infinity of the mofl

ftriking contrails

and thofe of Europe.

clofe
dreffc;.
j

We

wear

fliort

and

theirs

are

long

and

ample.

We fuffer our
beards they
thf
h'v-ad.

hair to grow, and

let

/have the

the beard grow, and fhavc

us^

With

to

uncover the head

a

is

mark

EGYPT AND
a
is

SYRIA.

459

mark of refped 3 with them,

a fign of folly.

a naked head

We
almoft

falute in

an inclined
lives

poflure^
eredl;

they upright.

We

pafs our

they are
fit

continually feated.

They

and eat upon the ground;

we upon
con*

raifed feats.

With

refpedt to language, likeis

wife, their trary

manner of writing
and the

diredlly

to ours,

greateft part of our

mafculine nouns are feminine

with

them.

To the

bulk of

travellers
it

thefe contrafts only

appear whimfical; but

may

be interelfing to

philofophers, to enquire into the caufes of fo

great a diverlity of habits, in

men who have

the fame wants, and in nations which appear

to have one

common
is

origin.

Another

diflinguifliing charadieriftic, nolefs

remarkable,

that religious exterior obler-

vable in the countenances, converfation, and

geftures of the inhabitants

of Turkey,

in.

the

ftreets,

every one appears with his firing

of beads.

We hear nothing
Ta Allah
great
!

but emphatical

exclamations of

O God
is

A lab
God
ilruck

akhar

God moft

Aliu.'j

taala,

moft high! every inftant the ear

with a profound
figh,

or

nuiiy erudtation

which

follovi'S

the pronouncing of iome one

epithes

o^ the ninety- nine

of

0^^6.\

fjLh
as

^60
as
I'^a

T R A V

E L

N
Ta fobhanl

rani/ Source of riches

O
he

mofc to be praifed! Ta mafiourl

trable
!

impene-

If a

man

fells

bread in the

llreets,

does not cry bread, but exclaims Allah kerim,

God

is

liberal.

If he

fells

water, he cries,

Allah djawady
other articles.
is,

God is generous ; and fo of The ufual form of filutation

thee
-,

God

prcferi'e

and

of thanks,
is

God
every

protect thee: in

word,

God

in

thing, and every where.

Thefe men then

are very devout, fays the reader? Yes, but

without being the better in confequence of

tills

devotion, for I have already obferved,

is

their zeal

no other than a

fpirit

of jealoufy
diverfity

and contradidlion, ariling from the

religions
-,

of

fmce in the Chriftian a profeffion

is

of his faith dence;

a bravado, an adt of indepenin

and

the

Mahometan, an

adt

of

fuperiority

and power.

This devoutnefs,
and
better than a fanatic

therefore, merely the offspring of pride

profound ignorance,
fL^periliition,

is

no

and the fource of innumerable

diforders.

There

is ftill

another characfteriilic in the

exterior of the Orientals,

attention of an obferver

which I mean

attracts the

their grave

and phlegmatic

air in

every thing they do,

or

EGYPT AND
or fay.

SYRIA.
either

461

Inftead of that open and cheerful

countenance,
poflefs

which

we

naturally
is

or affume,

their behaviour

feri-

ous,

auftere,

and melancholy;

they

rarely

laugh, and the gaiety of the French appears

to

them

fit

of delirium.

When

they fpeak,

it is

with deliberation, without geftures, and

liften

without palfion; they

rupting you
;

without inter-

they are

filent for

whole days

together, and

by no means pique themfelves

on fupporting converfation. If they walk, it is always leifurely, and on bufinefs; they

have no idea of our troublefome
activity,

and

our walks backwards and forwards for amufe-

ment.

Continually

feated, they pafs

whole

days mufing, with their legs croiTed, their

pipes in their mouths, and

almoll

without

changing

their attitude.

It fliould

feem

as if that,

motion were a puniihment

like the Indians,
feniial to happinefs.

to

them, and

they regard inadion as ef-

This obfervation, which may be extended

to the greater part of their habits

and cuf-

toms, has, in our time, given occafion to a

very

fummary fyftem of

the caufes of the pe-

culiar charadler of the Orientals, and feveral

other nations.

celebrated writer, reiledlin^

on

462

TRAVELSIN
faid
travellers

on what the Greeks and Romans have

of Afiatic effeminacy, and the accounts given

by
is

of the indolence of the Indians,

this

of opinion, that

indolence forms the

diftinguifhing charadier of the inhabitants of

thofe countries

purfuing his enquiries

this

into

the

common

caufe of
all

general fad:, and

fmdine, that
are called

thefe nations
coimtries,

inhabit what

hot

he has attributed

the caufe

of their indolence to heat;

as a principle,

and
it

affuming the fad:

has

laid

down as an axiom,

that the inhabitants of hot

countries mufl neceffarily be indolent, inert

of body, and from analogy, likewife inert of

mind and charader. He goes even ftill farther; remarking, that unlimited monarchy is the mofl ufual form of government among thefe
nations; and confidering defpolifm as the ef-

fed of the fupinenefs of -a people, he concludes, that defpotifm

ral
is

as

much

the natu-

government of thefe countries,

feem
as if the

and

as

neceffary as the climate under

It

which they

live.

{liould

feverity, or,

more
guard
this

properly fpeaking, the barbarity of the infer-

ence lliould have put

againft fuch

men upon

their
:

erroneous principles

yet

fyftem has been received with great applaufc

in

EGYPT AND
in

SYRIA.

46^

France, nay,

even throughout Europe;

Spirit

and the opinion of the author of the

of

Laws,
clafs
it is

is

become among the moft numerous

differ.

of reafoners, an authority from which

prefumptuous to

This

is

not the

place to write a formal treatife completely to

overthrow

this error

befides that fuch a re-

futation already exifts in the

lofopher,

work of a phifome
have

whofe name
But
ieafl in the

is

at leaft equal to that

of Montefquieu.
doubts at

in order to raife

minds of thofe who,

reflect,

without giving themfelves time to

adopted
jections
this opinion,
I lliall

offer a

few ob-

which the
do(ftrine

fubjed: naturally fuggefls.

The

of the general indolence of

is

the Oiiental and fouthern nations,

founded

on that opinion of

Afiatic effeminacy origi-

nally tranfmittcd to us by

the Greeks

and

Romans; but what are that was built ? Were

terminate, or did
this

the fatts on

which

they fixed and de-

opinion rely on vague

the
iyflems of the
a

and general ideas

like

moderns

Had

the

ancients

more

ac-

curate knowledge of thofe countries in their

time, than

we have

obtained in @urs; and are

we

juflified in

founding on their report an hy-

pothefis

difficult to cllabiifh

from our own

more

464

TRAVELSIN

more minute examination ? but, admitting the fa(fts as we receive them from hifcory, were
the Affyrians, whofe ambition and wars during vc hundred years, threw Afia into confufion
j

the Medes,

who hook

off their yoke,

and

difpoffeiTed

them; the Perfians who, un-

der Cyrus, within the fpace of thirty years,

extended their conquefts from the Indus to the

Mediterranean
people?

were thefe

inert

and indolent

May we

not oppofe to this fyftem

fo

the Phoenicians, who, for

ries,

many

centu-

were in

poiTefiion

of the commerce of
the Palmyrenians,

the whole ancient world;

of whofe induflry

we

pollefs

fuch

ftupen-

monuments; the Carduchi of Xenophon, who braved the power of the Great
dous
FJn</ in the very heart of his empire; the Parthians, thofe unconquerable rivals of

Rome;
a
lit-

and even the Jews, who, limited

tle ftate,

to

never ceafed to llruggle, for a thouagainil:

fand years,
pires
?

the moft pov/erful

em-

if
is

the

men of thefe
?

nations were inert,

what
then

adivity

If they

were adive, where

is

the influence of climate?

fo

Why
at

in the

fame countries, where

find fuch

difplayed in former times,

much do we
?

energy was
prefent
are the

profound indolence

Why

moderii

EGYPT AND
modern
Greeks
Co

SYRIA.

465

debafed amid

the very-

ruins of Sparta and Athens, and in the fields

of Marathon and Thermopylie? Will

alleged, that the climate has

it

be

changed ? Where
this true, it
;

are the proofs

Suppoiing

muft

have changed by irregular

fits

the climate of

Perfiamuil have altered greatly from Cyrus

to Xerxes;

that of Athens
-,

from Aridides

to

Demetrius Phalereus
Scipio to Sylla, and

and that of

Rome from

from

Sylla to Tiberius.

The

climate of the Portugueze niuH; have

changed fince the days of Albuquerque, and

that of the

Turks
to

fince

Soiiman? If indofouthern countries,

lence be peculiar to the

how
at St.

are

we

account for a Carthage in

Africa,

Rome

in Italy,
?

and the Buccaneers

do we meet with the
in

Domingo
in India,

Why

Malays

and the Bedouins

Arabia

Why,
fame
a

too, at the

fame period, and under the

iky,

do we find a Sybaris near Crotona,

in the vicinity of

Capua

Rome, andaSar?

des contig^uous

to

Miletus

Whence

is

it,

that

we

fee,

under our

ovv'n eyes,

and in Eu-

rope

itfelf,

northern governments as languid

?

as thofe of the fouth

pire, are the

Why,

in

our

own em-

fouthern more adive than the

northern

provinces? If the fame effedts are

II.

VcL.

oblcrvabis

'

466

TRAVELS
and
different effects

IN
uilder the

obfervable
fiances,

under diredly contrary circuni*

fame
pre-

circumflances,

what becomes of
?

thefe

tended

principles
?

What
is

is

this

influence

of cHmate
a6tivity
?

and what

to be underflood

by

Is it

only to be accorded to warlike

nations

and was Sparta, when not engaged

?

in war, to be efleemed inert

What
are
?

do we

mean by hot
partifans of

countries

Where

we

to

di'aw the line of cold and temperate

Let the
that

Montefquieu afcertain

this,

we may henceforward
perature,

be enabled to determine

the quantity of energy in a nation by the tem-

and
are

at

what degree of

the thermo-

meter

we

to fix its aptitude to flavery or

freedom

But

a phylical obfervation has been called

this

in to corroborate

polition

and we
j

are

told that heat abates our ftrength

we

are

more indolent
the
niiTil:

in

fummer than

in

winter:

inhabitants of hot

countries, therefore,
this true,

be indolent.
is it

Let us fuppofe

WJience

then, that, under the lame influ-

ence of climate, the tyrant pofiefTes more energy

to opprefs, than the people to defend
felves
?

themreafon

}jut,

is it

not evident that

we

like the inhabitants of a country

where cold

GYPT AND
is

SYRIA.

467

more prevalent than heat ? Were a fimilar thefis to be maintained in Egypt and Atrica,

it

would

there be faid,

the cold prevents the

circulation.

tion,

and obftruds
is,

moThe

truth

that our fenfations are relative to our

habits,

and that bodies ail'ume a temperato the climate in

ment analagous
live
;

which they
by the ex-

fo that they are only afFedted

tremes

of the ordinary medium.

;

We

hate

fweating

the Egyptian loves

it,

and dreads

nothing lb

much as a failure of perfpiration. Thus, whether we refer to hiftorical, or na-.

fa<5ls,

tural

the fyflem of Montefquieu, fo fpefight, turns out,

cious at

when examined, to be a mere paradox, vv^hich has owed its fuccefs only to the impreliion made by the
iii'll

novelty of the fubjedt, at the time the Spirit

of
it

Laws

appeared, and the indire6t flattery

offered to thofe nations

by which

it

was

fo favourably received.

To

give precifion to our ideas, refpedting

the queftion of activity, a fhorte

certain

and more

metliod

than thefc far-fetched and

equivocal

reafonings

would have been,

and
to

to

have fludied nature

herfelf,

have exaa<ftivity in

mined the

origin

and motives of
this

man.

If

we purfue

mode of

invefligation.

468
tion,

TRAVELS
we
iliall

IN
all

perceive that
its

adion, whether

of body or mind, has

Iburce in our neceffitiesj

and augments

as they increafe.

We

may

fol-

low
to

its

gradations from the rudefl beginnings,

the flate of the mofl mature improvement.

In

man

yet favage,

hunger and
of
the

thirft

awaken

the

iirll:

exertions

foul

and body.

Thefe are the wants which prompt him to

run, fearch,

watch, and employ cunning or

violence, as he finds
ad:ivity

them

neceffary

all

his

depends on the means of providing

Is that

for his fubfiilence.

eafily obtained,

has

he

fruit,
is lefs

game and

HHi,

within his

reach, he

adive, fmce by putting forth

his hand, he can fatisfy himfelf ; and being

fatisfied,

nothingexciteshimto motion,

till

the

experience of various enjoyments has awaken-

ed in

him defires which become new wants, and new motives of adivity. On the other
hand,
are the

means of fupplying
be obtained
;

his necef-

fities difficult to

is

game hard

to

be found, and poffeffed of agility to avoid

him

are the iiih wily, and do the fruits foon

;

decay

man

is

forced to be
his

more

a6tive

he
to

muft

exercife
life;

body and his mind,

maintain
beails,

he

mull:

become

fwift like the

to

wily like the

3

iifli,

and provident

preferve

EGYPT AND
preferve his fruits;

SYRIA.

469

he miiPi endeavour the

natural faculties.

improvement of

his

He,
medi-

therefore, beftirs himfelf, he thinks, he

tates;

he conceives the idea of bending the

to

branch of a tree
reed to

form

bow, and pointing a

make

an arrow, he faftens a handle to

a fliarp ftone, and procures

him

a hatchet;

he then labours
to

to

make

nets,

to fell trees,

hollow out

their trunks,

and build canoes.

mofl urgent

Aire,

d/ has he provided
f fenfations has

for his

neceffites;

already the experience of a multi-

tud.

made him acquainted

and
his ac-

with enjoyments and fufferings;

tivity
is

redoubled to remove the one,

and

multiply the other.

He

has felt the pleafure

;

of being fliaded from the heat of the Sun

builds himlelf a cabin:
that a {kin fecures

he

he has experienced,
the cold
;

him from

he

makes himfelf clothing:

wiflies to

he has tafted branlikes

dy and fmoaked tobacco; he

have more; but
to

them, and

procure them he
elephants
his

muft bring beavers

gold duft, &ZC,
ty,

fkins,

teeth,

He

redoubles

achvi'

and

carries his induilry io fir as

to

even his fellow creature.

grefs,

In fuch a prccaufe,
i^

as

the primary

muil: be

acknowledged, that activity has

little or

no

conneclion

470

TRAVELS

IN
to fland

conne6lIon with heat;

only the inhabitants

of the north being reputed

more in
it

need of nourilhment than thoie of the fouth,

may

be alleged, that they muft confequently

this differ-

be pofleffed of more adtivity; but

ence in neceflary wants, has very narrow limits.

Befides,
it
is

well afcertained, that an Efa

quimaux

or

Samoyede,

requires

really

greater quantity oi aliment, than a Bedouin

or an Ichthyophagus of Perfia

Are the

fa-

vages of Brazil and Guinea

lefs

voracious

than thofe of Canada and California? Let

my

opponents beware

the facility of obtainis

ing a great quantity of food,

perhaps the

primary caufe of voracioufnefs ;

cility, efpecially irt a

and

this falefs

favage

(late,

depends
foil,

on climate than on the nature of the

its

and

richnefs or poverty in pallurage, in forefls,

lakes,

and in
and

and confequently in game,

iifh,

fruits;

circumflances which are found

indifferently under every parallel.

From
tivity.

thefe reflections
foil

it

appears that the

nature of the

has a real influence on ac-

We muft perceive, that in the focial as

which the

in the favage flate, a country, in

means of fubfiftence are fomewhat difficult to be procured, will have more adive, and more
induftrious

EGYPT AND
induftrious

SYRIA,
every thing,

471

inhabitants;
laviilisd

while in another
the
thi s

where nature has

people will be indolent and inadlive.

is

And
-,

perfectly conformable to hiftorical fad;

for

we always

find the conquering nations poor,

diffi-

and iiTuing from lands either barren, or

cult of cultivation, while the conquered peo-

ple are inhabitants of fertile and opuleat countries.

It is

even worthy of obfervation, that

thefc needy conquerors, ellabliflied

among rich
become

nations, fhortly lofe their enegy, and

effeminate.
fians,

Such was the

cafe

with the Per-

who, under Cyrus, defcendcd from the

fertile fields

Elymais, into the

watered by the

Euphrates; fuch were the Macedonians under

Alexander,

when

tranfplanted from

Mount

Rhodope

to the plains of Afia;

fuch the Tartars

of Djenkis-kan,

when

fettled in

China and

Bengal; and fuch the Arabs fo vicStorious under

Mahomet, after the conqueft of Spain and Egypt. Hence we may affirm, that it is not
but as inhabitants of
rich, countries that nations are inclined to in-

as inhabitants of hot,

dolence; and this

able with
ral, fince

maxim is exadily conformwhat we obferve in focicty in genewe fee there is always leafl; adiivity
claffes
;

among the more opulent

ll

but as

this fitiety

h 4

472
tiety

TRAVELS
and poverty do not

IN
exift for all the in-

dividuals of a nation,

we
I

niufl recur to reaefficacious,

fbns

more

general,

and more
-,

than

the nature of the

flitutions,

foil

mean

the focial in-

called

Government and Religion.

Thefe

are the true fources

and regulators of

the activity or indolence of individuals, and

nations.

Tliefe are the efficient caufcs, which,

as they extend or limit the natural or fuper-

fluous wants, limit or extend the a(5tivity of

all

men.

proof that their influence ope-

rates in fpite
foil, is,

of the difference of climate and

that Tyre, Carthage, and Alexandria,

formerly poffeifed the fame induftry as London, Paris, and Amfterdam; that the Buccaneers,

and the Malayans have difplayed equal

turbulence and courage with the

Normans;

and that the Ruffians and Polanders have the

apathy and indifference of the Hindoos, and
the negroes.

But

as civil

and

religious infli-

tutions are perpetually varied and

changed by

the paffions of men, their influence changes

and

varies
it is,

in very fliort intervals of time.

Hence
Scipio,

that the

Romans, commanded by
governed by Ti-

rembled

fo little thofe

berius
ilides

',

and that the Greeks, of the age of Arifo unlike thofe

and Themiftoclcs, were

of

the

EGYPT AND
paffes within ourfdves.

SYRIA.

473

the time of Conilantine. Let us examine

what

Do we

not experience,

that ouracflivity has lefs dependence on phylical

caufes, than the

aduai circumftances of the fo-

ciety of which we are

members
or

Are our d :fires

Vv^ants,

excited by

nccclTary

fuperfluous

both our bodies and minds are animated with

new

life;

pafiion infpires. us with an adtivity

ardent as our deiires, and perfevering as our

hopes.

Are

thefe hopes difappointed, defire

decays, a(ftivity languifhes,

and difcourageindolence.

ment induces apathy and

explains
ditions,

This

why our
life.

adivity varies W;th our con-

our lituations, and the different pe-

riods of our

Wliy
is

does the man,

who
in in

was

active in
?

his youth,

his old age

capital and

Why

become indolent there more activity

cities,

commercial

than in towns

without commerce, and

in

the country?

To

awaken
lire;

adiivity there
to maintain

mud
it,

be objed:s of de-

and

the hope of arriving

at

enjoyment.
is

If thefe

two

effentials

are

wanting, there
tional adivity.

an end to individual and na-

And

fuch

is

the condition of

the Orientals in general, and particularly of thofe of whom we are treating. What fhould

induce them to move,

if

no motion procures

them

474

TRAVELS

IN
How can they be
it

them

the hope of an enjoyment equivalent to

the trouble they muft take ?

otherwife than indolent in their moft fimple

habits, if their focial injfliftutions render
fort

of neceffity

The moft intelligent

after

obferver of antiquity,

having made the fame remark on the

time,
to the

Afiatics of his
reafon.
''
**

has

affigned the

fame

"As

effeminacy and indo(fays

lence of the Afiatics,

vv^hich

he in a paiTage
(t), if
in

well deferves to be cited)

lefs

"
'*

they are
their

warlike, and

more gentle
Europeans,
climate,

manners than the

their

no

" doubt the nature of

**
**

more

temperate than ours, contributes greatly to

this

diiference.

But we muft not forget

**

the form of their governments,

all

which

are

"
**

defpotic,

and fubjed: to the

arbitrary^

will of their kings.

Men

who. are not

" permitted
** ** **
** **

the enjoyment of their natural

rights,

but whofe paffions are perpetually

under the guidance of their mafters, will

never be found courageous in battle.

To

them the

rijfks

and advantages of war are

Obliged to forfake
ai're,

by no means equal.
(f)

Hippocrates de

loch et aqitis.
''

their

EGYPT AND
"
**

SYRIA.

475

their

friends, their country, their famiHes;

to fupport
itfelf,

cruel fatigues,

"
**

what is facrifices? Danger and

and even death the recompence of fo many

death. Their mailers

** **

alone enjoy the booty and the fpoils they

have purchafed with their blood.

But

let

them combat

in their

own

caufe,

and reap

**

the reward of their vidiory,

or feel the

" hame of
*
**

their defeat, they will

no longer

be deficient in courage;
this
is

fufficiently

and the truth of proved by both the

**
**
**

Greeks

and Barbarians,

who,

in

thofe

countries, live under their

are free; for they are

own

laws, and

**

any other race

more courageous than of men."

and what the Grecian phiof fome particular tribes,

This

is

precifely the characfter of the Ori;

entals of our days

lofopher has faid

who

refilled the

power of the Great king and

his Satraps, correfponds exactly with

what we

have feen of the Druzes, the Maronites, the

Curds, the Arabs, Shaik-Daher, and the Bedouins.
It

muft be admitted, the moral chalike

radter of nations,

that of individuals,
focial flate in

chiefly depends

on the
it is

which
and
fmcc

they live; fince

true, that

our adions are

governed by our

civil

and

religious lav/s,

4-6

TRAVELS

IN
repetition of

lince our habits are

no more than a

thofe anions, and our chara6ler only the difpofition to a6l in

fuch a manner, under fuch cir-

cumftances, it evidently follows, that thefe mufl

efpecially

depend on the nature of the governall

ment and religion. In

made,
I

theobfervationslhave

have never failed to remark the influ-

ence of thefe twocaufes operating more orlefs

immediately.

This will become

ftill

clearer,

when
I

confidered

more

circumllantially.

have

faid that the Orientals, in general,

have a grave and phlegmatic

ed and almofl
lifllefs

exterior, a flayfe-

deportment, and a

rious, nay, even

fad

and melancholy countefoil

nance.

Were

the climate or the

the ra-

dical caufe of this,

the effect would be the

fame
cafe
:

in every individual.

But that

is

not the

Under
claifes

this general character, there are

varieties in

a thoufand peculiar minute

ferent

dif-

and individuals,

arifmg from

their fituation, relative to the influence of go-

vernment, which
claffes,

differs in its effeds

on

thefe

and thefe individuals.

peafants

Thus we obTurks
tributary

ferve that the

fubjed: to the

are

more gloomy than thofe of the

countries; that

the inhabitants of the coun-

try are lefs gay than thofe of the

towns; and
that

EGYPT AND
that thofeon thecoaft are
i'dch as

SYRIA.

47^

more cheerful than

it

dwell at a greater diftance from

that

ill

the fame town, the profelFors of the

law

are

more

ferious
fo

than the military, and

than
tlie

thefe again

more

people.

Wc
cities,

may

even remark, that, in the great

the people have

much
as

of that diffipated and

carelefs air they ufu ally

have with usj becaufe

to

there, as

well

here, inured

futtering

from habit, and devoid of

nothing to
plundered.

reiieclion

from ig-

norance, they enjoy a kind of fecurity.

lofe,

Having

they are in no dread of being

The

merchant, on the contrary,

lives in a ilate

of perpetual alarm, under the

double appreheniion of acquiring no more,

and loling what he

left

polTelles.

He

trembles

he

iliould attrad: the attention

of rapaciair

ous authority, which would confidcr an

of

fatisfadtion as a

proof of opulence, and the

lignal for
vails

extortion.

The fame

dread pre-

throughout the
is

villages,

where each pea-

fant

afraid of exciting the envy of his equals,

and the avarice of the Aga and

petually

his foldiers.
is

In fuch a country, where the fubjedl

per-

watched by a defpoiling government,

a
ferious

he

mull: afilime

countenance for

the fame reafon that he wears raeg-ed clotlies,

and

478

TRA V

E LS

and makes a public parade of eating cheefe and olives. The fame caufe, though it has a
lefs

influence on the lawyers,

its efFedl

is

not, however,

without
in

on them

but the infolence

which they have been educated, and the

it

pedantry of their manners, render

fary to affign

unnecef-

any other.
their

With

refped: to

indolence,

it

is

not

furpriling

that the inhabitants

of the

cities

and the country, fatigued with labour,

have an inclination
markable, that
to repofe.

fliould

But

it is

re-

when

thefe people are once in

adlion, they exert themfeives

with a vivacity
in

and ardour almoft unknown

our climates.
the

This

is

more

particularly obfervable in

fea ports

and commercial towns.

with

An

Euro-

pean cannot but admire with what ad:ivity

the
failors,

their

naked

arras

and

legs,

handle the oars, bend the

every mancsuvre
ters
;

fails,

and perform

with what ardour the por-

unload a boat, and carry the heaviefh

couffes {u).

Always

finging,

and anfwer-

ing by couplets to one

bour, they perform
dence,

who

dired:s their la-

ail their

motions in ca-

and redouble
made of

their exertio/is

by mak-

[u) Sacks

ftraw, greatly ufcd :n Afia.

EGYPT AND
ing them in time.
It

SYRIA.
faid,

479

has been

on

this

iubjed, that the inhabitants of hot countries

have a natural propenfity to mulic

but in
?

what

confifls its
it

analogy with the climate

Would

not be more rational to fay, that

the hot countries

we

are

acquainted with,

having made a confiderable progrefs in im-

provement and knowledge long before our

cold climates, the people have retained fome
traces of the
fine arts

which were formerly

cultivated

among them.

Our merchants

fre-

quently reproach this people, and efpecially

thofe of the country, with not labouring fo
often, nor fo

long, as

they are able.

But

why

fhould they labour beyond their wants,

lince the fuperfluity of their induftry

would
?

procure them no additional enjoyments

In

many

refpeds, a

man

of the lower clafs of

;

people refembles the favages

when he has exfubfiftit is

pended his flrength in procuring a

ence, he takes his repofe
;

only by renac-

dering that fubfiHence

quire,

lefs

difficult to

and by exciting him with the temptahe can be

tion of prefent enjoyments, that

induced to exert an uniform activity; and

we
is

have feen, that the Turkifh government

of a diredly contrary tendency.

As

to the

fcdentary

4So

TRAVELS
life

IN

fedentary

of the natives, what motive has

a

man

to be adtive in

country where the

police

has

never thought either of laying

;

out walks, or encouraging plantations

there
is

vv'here

no

fafety

without the towns, nor plea;

lure within their precincfls

where every thing,

in fhort, invites to

ftay at

home ?

Is it afto-

nifliing that fiich political

maxims fhould have

produced fedentary habits?

thefe habits, in their turn,

And muft

not

become the
civil

caufes

of inaction

The
ftate,
ftill

comparifon of our

and domeflic
furniili

with that of the Orientals, will

further reafons for that

phlegm which

conflitutes their general

character.
is

One of
the fo-

the chief fources of gaiety with us,

c ial

intercourfe of the

table,

and the ufe of

cheer would

wine.

The

Orientals are almoft ftrangers to

this double enjoyment.

i

Good

ifallibly

expofe them to extortion, and wine

punifliment,

to a corporal

from the zeal of

the

police in enforcing
It is

the precepts of the

Koran.

with great reludance, that the

tolerate

Mahometans
fore,
is

the

Chriflians in the

ufe of a liquor they envy

them; wine, there-

not habitual or familiar, except in the

Kelraouan, and the country of the Druzes

and

EGYPT AND
and
their repafts

SYRIA.

481

they have a

cheerfulnefs
in the

which brandy does not procure even

cities

of Aleppo and Damafcus.

lecond Iburce of gaiety

among

us,

is

the

free in tercourfe

between the two

fexes,

which
ef-

prevails
fed:

more

particularly in France.
is,

The

of which

that even without any par-

men endeavour to obtain the good opinion of the women, and ftudy to acticular views, the

quire the manners moil likely

to enfure

it.

Now,
eyes
is
is

fuch

is

the nature, or fuch the educathe

firft

tion of the fex, that

to be able to

merit in their
-,

amufe them

and nothing

fo

certain of

fucceeding

with them, as

fprightlinefs

and mirth.

Hence we have
politenefs

contracted a habit of
frivolity,

trifling,

and

which

is

become the

diftinguifh-

ing chaiadler of the French nation in Europe.

In Alia on the contrary, the

women

are ri01

goroufly fecluded from the fociety

men.
they

Conftantly

fhut

up

in

their

houfes,

have no communication but with with their coufin-german.

even on buiinefs.
gers
to

their huf-

band, their father, their brother, or at moil

Carefully veiled

in the ftreets, they dare hardly fpeak to a

man,

Every body mull be Gran-

them:
II

it

would be indecent
I i

to fix

Vol.

your

4^2

TRAVELSIN
let

your eyes on them, and you mufl

them
is

pafs you, as if there were fomething conta-

gious in their nature.

And

indeed this

nearly the idea of the Orientals,

tain a general fentiment of
fex.
It
?
;

who

enter-

contempt

for that

this

may be alked, what is the caufe of The fame which operates on every
the laws and government.
paflionately fond as

thing

In fadt,

Mahomet, men, has

he was of wo-

not, however, done

in his
-,

nour of treating them

taining to the

them the hoKoran as apperdoes not fo

either

much

as

human fpecies he make mention of them

life
;

with

refpeft to the ceremonies of religion, or the

rewards of another

and

it is

even a fort

of problem with the Mahometans, whether

women

have

fouls.

Th^ government
for
it

is

fall

more unjufl towards them ;

completely deprives
perfonal liberty, as
all their lives

denies

them

the poilellion of any landed property, and fo

them of every kind of to leave them dependent

father, or a re-

on a huiband, a

lation.

In this flate of llavery, having nothing

at their difpofal,

we cannot

fuppofe

it

very

neceffary to folicit their favour, or to adopt

that gaiety of manners tliey find fo captivating.

The government and

laws

are,

no doubt,
the

EGYPT AND
the
efficient caufe
;

SYRIA.
it

483

of this fequeflratlon of the

not for the fa-

women
cility

and perhaps, were

of divorces, and the dread of feeing a

wife or daughter carried off by fome powerful

man, the

Afiatics

would be
ftrangers.

lefs

anxious

to conceal

them from
of the

This

lituation

women among the Oribetween their

is

entals, occaiionsagreat contrafl:

manners and ours.

this

head,
it

that

on they never fpeak of them;

their delicacy

Such

and

would be efteemed highly indecent

enquiries

to

make any
the

of the

men

relpecfling

women

of their family.

We

muft be
with

coniiderably

advanced

in

familiarity

them, to enter into a converfation on fuch a

fubjedt;

and when we then give them fome

it

account of our manners,

exprefs their
to conceive

is

impoflible to
are unable
their

amazement.

They

how
is

our

women go with

faces uncovered,

when,
the

in their country,

an

uplifted veil

mark of

a proftitute, or

the fignal for a love adventure.

They have
them, to talk

no idea

how

it is

poffible to fee

with them, and touch them, without emotion,

or to be alone with
lafh

them without proThis afto-

ceeding to the

extremities.

nifliment will fufficientlv fliew

I
i

what opinion
they

4H4

p.

A V E L

IN
;

they entertain of their females

and we need

not heiitate to conclude they are abfolutely

ignorant of love, in our fenfe of the word. That
defireon

which

it

is

founded,

is

with them
confli-

ftripped of all thofe acceflbries

tute
its

which

charm

privation

is

there without a

facrlfice, victory

without a combat, and enjoy_

they pafs at once

ment without
from torment
fjncrs,

delicacy;
to fatiety.

Lovers there are prito

always watching

deceive

their

keepers, and always alert to feize the

portunity, becaufe
it

firfl

opis

feldom happens, and

foon

loft.

Secret as confpirators, they con-

ceal their
is

good fortune

as a

crime becaufe

it

attended with no

lefs fatal

confequences.
'

Indifcretion can fcarcely avoid the poniard, the

piftol, or poifon.
Its dell:ru(5live

confequences
in

to

the

women

render

them implacable

punifliing, and, to revenge themfelves, they are

frequently more cruel than their huft^ands and

their br9thers.

This

feverity preferves a

con-

fiderable degree of chaftity

and decorum

in tlie

country
are

but in the great towns, where there

refources for intrigue, as
;

more

much

de-

bauchery prevails as among us

difference,

only with this

that

it is

more concealed. Aleppo,

all,

Damafcus,
,

and above

Cairo,

arj not

fecond

EGYPT AND
pitals.

SYRIA.
referved

485

iecond in this refped: to our provincial ca-

Young
elfe,

girls

are

there

as

every where

becaufe the difcovery of a

cofl

love adventure

would

them

their lives;

but married

women

give themfelves
to

up

to

pleafure with the

more freedom,

indemnify
reftraint

themfelves

for the long and

ftridl

they have endured,

and becaufe they have

often juft reafons for revenging themfelves

their mafters.

on

In fad;, from the practice of

polygamy permitted by the Koran, the Turks,

in general, are enervated very early, and

no-

thing

is

more coaimon than

to hear

men of
is

thirty complaining of impotence.

This

the the

malady
joun,

for

which they
they
the
is

chiefly

confult

Europeans, deiiring them to give them

Mad-

by

which
is

This infirmity
them,

as fterility

mean provocatives. more mortifying to reproach among the

Orientals; they

ftill

retain for fecundity all

the eileem of ancient times; and the bed

wifli

you can make a young

girl, is tliat

flie

may

foon get a hufband, and have a great

children.

number of
not rare to

From

this

prejudice
it is

they haflen their marriages fo much, that

fee

girls

of nine or ten years old

I
i

married-

4^6

TRAVELSIN
It

married to boys of twelve or thirteen.

muft however be

confelTed, that the apprc-

henfions of Hbertinifm, and the feverity with

which

that

is

puniflied

by the Turkifh

police,

greatly contribute to thefe premature unions,

which muft

likewife be reckoned

caufes of their early impotence.

among the The ignoitfeif to

rance of the Turks will not fuffer

be

perfuaded on this head, and they are fo irrational as to forc^ nature, at the very time
their
alfo
is

health

is

impaired by excefs.

This

to be afcribed to the Koran, in which

^he am.orous prophet has taken care to infert

a precept inculcating
this
is

fpecies of duty.
in

Montefquieu,
afTign

therefore,
as

the right, to

polygamy

one cf the caufes of debut

it is

population in Turkey;

one of the

lead conliderable, as there are few but the rich

who
the

allow themfelves a plurality of

women ;

common

people, and efpecially thofe of

the country,

content themfelves with one;

are fometimes to be

and perfons
even

met with,
are wife

among

the higher ranks,

who

enough
fefs that

to imitate their

example,

and con-

one wife

is

quite fufficient.
learn of the domeftic

What we

are able to

hfc

EGYPT AND
life
is

SYRIA.

4S7

of the huibands

who

have feveral wives,

their lot envied,

neither calculated to

make

nor to give a high idea of this part of

homet's
'

MaNo-

legillatioR.

Their houfe

is

a per-

petual fcene of tumult and contention.

thing

is

to be heard but quarrels between the

different wives,

and complaints made to the

four legal
flaves

hufband.

The

married
are

women

complain that their

them, and the

preferred to

flaves,

that

they are abanmiftreffes.

doned

to the jealoufy

of their

If

one wife obtains a

the

trinket, a token
all

of favour,
the others

or permifTion to go to the bath,

require

fame,
caufe.

and league together in

the

common
is

To

redore peace, the

polygamifl
defpot,

obliged to affume the tone of a

and from that moment he meets with nothing but the fentiments of flaves, the appearance of fondnefs and
vain does each of thefe
loves
fly,

real

hatred.

In

women
;

proteft fhe

him more than him

his pipe
X.o

the reil

iq vain

do they

on

his entering the apartments, to pre-

fent

and

his

flippers,

to pre-t
;

pare his dinner,

vain, whilft he

ferve

him

his coffee

in

is

effeminately ilretched out

flies

upon

his carpet,

do they chace away the

I
i

which

4S8

T R AV
carefles

E L
-,

which incommode him

and
procure an addition

all

thefe attentions

have no other objefl than to

to
their

trinkets

and

moveables, that
they

if

he

fliould repudiate

them,

may

be able to tempt another huiband,

refource in

or find a

what becomes
to
ilrip

their

only property.

They

are merely courtezans,

their

who

think of nothing but

lover before he quits

them

and

this lover,

long fince cieprived of

deiires, teized
all

by feigned
lifllefs-

fondnefs, and tormented with

nefs

the

of

fatiety,

is

far

from enjoying,

as

we

may well imagine, an enviable fituation. The contempt the Turks entertain for their women, arifes from this concurrence of circumflances, and
their
it

is

evidently the effect of

own cufloms. For how fhould the women retain that excluiive love, which renders them moft eflimable, v/hen fo many
fliare in

the affedions of their hufband

How

ihould they poffefs that modefly which conftitutes

their greatefl virtue,

when

the moil

ihocking fcenes of debauchery are daily before

their eyes
?

How,

in

a word, fliould

they be endov/ed with the manners requilite

to

make them

amiable,

when no

care

whatever

EGYPT
ever
at
Is ti' t-n leall;

AND

YR

A.

489

of their education;
this

The Greeks

j.^rive

advantAge fi-om religion,

that, being permitted to take hut one u^ife at

time,

thty

enjoy

more domeftic peace,

though perhaps without approaching nearer

to real happinefs.
It is

remarkable,

that in confequence of
there
ejiiils

the difference

in religion,

be-

tween the
Syria,

Chriflians

and
all

and indeed of

Turkey,
as

Mahometans of as marked
if

difference
diflindt

of character
nations,

they were

tvv^o

living under difi-erent

climates.

Travellers,

and

our merchants,

who
in

on account of the habits

live

of intimacy
ftill

which they

with both, are

agree that

bet-

ter qualified to decide,

the Greek

Chriflians are in general

ful, abject in adverfity,

wicked and deceitfor

infolent in profperity,
levity

and

efpecially
:

remarkable

and

ficklenefs

the

Mahometans, on the contrary,

to

though
however
nity,

haughty even

infolence,

pofTefs

a fort of goodnefs of heart,

humafail

and juflice;

and above

all,

never

to manifeft great fortitude under misfortune,

and
trail

much

firmnefs of charad:er.
living

This con-

between men,

under the fame

iky.

49
fky,

TRAVELS
may
appear
furpriiingj

IN
but the
pre^*

judices of their education^ and the influence

of the government
fufficiently

under which they Hve,

it.

account for

The
ail

Greeks,

treated
nefs

by the Turks with

the haughtitheir llaves^

and contempt they fhew to

lal]:

cannot but at

affurne the charader perpe:

tually afcribed to

them they have been obliged

to pradtife deceit, to efcape from v olence by

cunning, and they have recourfe to the meaneft

flatteries,

becaufe the

wra^ muft

ever court

the ftrong; they are dillem biers and mifchicvous, becaufe he

himfelf,

who

cannot openly revenge

hatred j

difguifes

his

cowardly

and treacherous, fmce he who cannot attack

in front, naturally ftrikes behind;
folent
in profperity,

and in-

becaufe they

who
all

at-

tain wealth or

power unworthily,

are eager

to revenge

thcmfelves by returning

th

contempt they have received

I

in the purfuit.

was one day obferving to a very fenfible monk, that among all the Chriftians, who in more modern times have been advanced
to eminent flations in this country, not one

of them has Ihewn himfelf worthy of his

good

fortune.

Ibrahim was meanly avari.

cicuSj

EGYPT AND
Cious;

SYRIA.

491

Sad-el-Kouri irrefolute and

his Con.

pufillani-.

mous,
folent,

Randour, ignorant and in* and Rezk, cowardly and deceitful;

his anfwer was,

word
reins

for

word, as follows
not
Panels

The
to

Chriftians

have

proper
be-

manage the

of government,

caufe, during their

youth they have been

in

continually

employed

beating

cotton^

They

refemble thofe

who walk

for the rft

time on high terraces, they grow giddy at

feeing themfelves fo exalted,

and as they

are afraid they fhall be forced to return to

their olives

and cheefe, they are in hafle

the profits they can.

to

make

all

The

Turks on the
govern;
** **

contrary, are accuflomed to

they are mafters habituated to

their authority,

and ufe

it

as if they
it."

had

no

fear

of being deprived of
forget, at the

We

muft not

fame time, that the

and have
is

Mahometans have
inftilled into

the prejudices of fatalifm

their birth,

them from

a full perfuafion that every thing

tlned.

predeffecurity
raid a

Hence they experience

defire

which moderates both

refignation

and

fear,

by which they

are equally pre-

pared for good and evil;

they are habituated

in

492

R A V E L

in a kind of apathy,

which equally prevents

the paft or providing

them from
ap-ainft

regretting

the future.

Does the Mahometan

Is

fuffer
Is
<*

by any misfortune?
and fubmits,

he plundered?

he ruined? he calmly
ten,"

"It was writwithout a murmur, to

fays,

the moil unexpe(2;ed tranfition from opulence

to

poverty.

Even on

the

bed of death ^

nothing
fignation,

dillurbs the tranquillity of his re-

he makes his ablution, repeats his

prayers, profefTes his belief in

God, and the

**

prophet 3 he tranquilly fays

*'

to his fon;

turn
in

my

head

towards

Mecca,"

and

dies

peace.
believe

The
that

Greeks, on the contrary,

who

God may
live in

be prevailed on to
flifling,

change

his purpofe,

by vows,

prayer

and pilgrimages,
of obtaining

the perpetual defire

fome

new

bleinng,

the

fear

of lofing fom.e good they already

pollefs, or

tormented by regret for fome duty omitted.

Their hearts are a prey

paffion,
effects,

to every contending

nor do they avoid their deftrudive

except fo far as the circumilances in
live,

which they Mahometans

childhood.

and the example of the

remark equally
true

enfeeble the prejudices of their

We

may add

EGYPT AND
true of both
religions,

SYRIA.

493

that

the inhabitants

of the inland countiy have more integrity,

fimplicity, and- generolity,
refped; of

and are

in every

more amiable manners than thofe upon the fea-coafl:, no doubt becaufe the
latter continually

engaged

in

commerce, have
a mercantile

contracted, by their
fpirit,

mode of life,
to all

naturally inimical

thofe virtues
dif-

which are founded on moderation and

intereflednefs.

After what
the Orientals,

have

faid

of the manners of

we

fhall

be no longer aftonifli-

ed that their v/hole character partakes of the

monotony of
ftatc

their private life,

and of the

of fociety in which they

cities

live.

Even
all

in
as

the

where

we

fee

mofl

aftivity,

Aleppo,

Damafcus,
conlift in

and

Cairo,

their

amufements

going to the bath, or

cofiee-houfes,

meeting together in

which

only refemble ours in name. There, in a large

room,
mats,

filled

with fmoak, feated en ragged

wealthier
clafs

the

of

people pafs

whole days
of bufinefs,
long

in

fmoaking

their pipes, talking

in concife phrafes,

uttered
in

at

intervals,

and frequently

faying

nothing. Sometimes the dulnefs of this liient

affembiy

494

TRAVELS
is

IN
of a
or

aflembly
finger,

relieved

by

the entrance

fome dancing
few Paras,

girls,

one of thofe

flory tellers they call Najhid,

who,

to

ob-

tain a
verfes

relates

a tale, or recites
poet.

from fome ancient

Nothing
ranks have

can equal the attention

liflen to this orator;

with which they

all

people of

a very extraordinary paflion for this fpecies

of amufement.
little

European
fee
is

traveller is not a

furprized to

the Turkifli failors,

when

the weather

calm, affemble on the

deck, and attentively liflen for two or three

hours together, to a declamation,

which the

mofl unexperienced ear mufl at once perceive

to be poetry,
fure and
It
is

from the exadtnefs of the mea-

the continually recurring rhymes.

not in this alone that the

common

peo-

ple of the eafl excel ours in delicacy.

The

populace even in the great

cities,

notwith-

ftanding the turbulence of their difpofitions,

are never fo brutal as

we

frequently fee

them

with us, and they have the great merit of not

being addid:ed
to

drunkennefs, a vice from

peafants are not free.

which even our country

Perhaps
this is the

only real advantage pro-

duced by the

iegillation

of

Mahomet

unlefs

we

EGYPT AND
wc may add
fore
this

SYRIA.

4^5

the

prohibition of games

of

chance, for which the Orientals have there-

no

tallw

chefs

is

the only

amufement of
very fkilful

kin.l they

hold in any eftimation, and

we

frequently find

ameng them

players.

Of
which

all

the different fpecies of public exthe

hibitions,
is

only one

they know^,
a-lone,
is

and,

ftiolicrs,

common at Cairo who fhew feats of

that of

ftrength like our

rope-dancers, and tricks of flight of hand like

our jugglers.
eating
flints,

We

there

fee

fome of them

others breathing flames,

fom

cutting their arms or perforating their nofes,

without receiving any hurt, and others devouring ferpents.

The

people,

from

whom

they carefully
art,

conceal

the iecrets

of their

entertain a fort of veneration for them^

call

and
thefe

thefe extraordinary

performances,

which appear to have been very ancient in

countries,

by a name which
This propeniity

fignifies

prodigy or rnirade.

to

ad-

miration and readinefs

to believe the

moid
fea-

extravagant
ture
in

tales,

is

remarkable
the

the

charadter

of

Orientals,
leaft

They

receive,

without helitation or the

ihadow

496

TRAVELS
told them,

IN
if

fliadow of doubt, the mofl wonderful things

that can be
tales current

and

among them,
as

as

we regard the many prodigies

afcribed.
j

happen every day

of v/hich

have been

to

the age of the Genii and Fairies

the reafon
totally

no doubt

is,

that

being

ignorant of the ordinary courfe of phyfical

and moral
of

caufes, they

know

not the limits

Befides
earlieft

probability

and

impofTibility.

having been accuftomed from their

youth to believe the abfurd fables of the

Koran,
they are

wholly

deftitute of

any

ftandard of analogy, by
truth from
fore arifes

which

to diilingiailh

falfehood.

Their cruelty thereimper-

from

their ignorance, the

fection of their

education, and the nature of

the government.

To

this

credulity the

ex-

travagance of imagination which fome have

fo

much

admired in their romances,

j

is

in a

great meafure to be attributed

but though

they were deprived of this fource, their works

would ilill pofTefs many brilliant ornanisnts. In

general the Orientals are remarkable for a clear

conception, an eafy expreflion, a propriety of

language in
with,

the things
a

they are acquainted

and

paffionate

and nervous

flile.

They

EGYPT AND
They have
tences,

SYRIA.
tailie

49^

particularly a

for

moral fen-

and

their proverbs

fliew they

know
and

hov7

to unite the juflnefs of obfervation,

profundity

of the thought to an ingenuity

and force of expreffion.

appears at
firft

Their converfatiou

to have a fort of coldnefs, but

to
it,

when we

are

more accuftomed

we

find
is

ourfclves greatly attached to them.

Such

the good opinion with which thofe

who have

had moft
travellers

communication with
and merchants,

them have
have

been imprefied, that the greater part of our

who

known

them
rader,

beft,

allow that they find in them a

people of a more

humane and generous chamore

fimplicity,

and

pofTeffing

and

more

refined

and open manners, than even the

inhabitants of European Countries, as if the

Afiatics,
ilili

having been poliflied^long before us,

preferved the traces of their early

im-

provement.

But

it is

time to terminate thefe reflexions

I ihall only

add one more, which

After

is

perfonal

to

myfelf.

having
Syria;

lived
after

near three

years in

Egypt and
to
;

having been

habituated
devafbation

fpediacles

of

barbarifm and

on

my

return to France, the

fight of my

own

country had almofl the fame

Vol.

il.

effed

4-98

TR A y
on

E L

N
t

clfecfl

me

as

that of a foreign land;

could not avoid feeling a kind of furprize,

when,

traverfing our provinces

to

from the

MeI

diterranean

the

ocean,

inftead of thofb

ruined countries and vail deferts to

which

had been accuftomed,

ed, as
it

faw myfelf tranfport-

were, into an immenfe garden, where

cultivated fields, populous towns, and country

feats

continually

fucceeded

each other

during a journey of twenty days.

When
I

compared our elegant and

the brick and

folid buildings, to

mud -walled

cottages

had

left

behind me, the opulence and induftry of our

cities

to the ruinous

and defolate condition

to the poverty,

of the Turkifli towns, the plenty, peace, and

power of

this

kingdom,

an-

archy, and feeblenefs of the empire of the

Turks i
faid
**

to admiration fucceeded pity,

and to

pity philofophdcal meditation.

I

" Whence/*
alike
?

to

mvfelf,

**

fo ftriking^ a contrail

between countries
life

fo

much

Why
?

(o

" much
**
-

and

activity here,

and there fo

much

improvidence and indolence

Why

yy
"

fo great a ditierence

between

men of the fame

and barbarous,

fpeciesr"

Then, remembering that the

i^^tvi

countries I had

fo defolate

were once fluuriihing and populous^ a fecond

reiiedlion

EGYPT AND
jrefleJlIon
** <'
*'

SYRIA.
flates

49^
**

fucceeded almoft involuntarily.

1,

If

formerly," faid

" the

of Afia en^

joyed this fplendor,

thofe of

who

can afTure us that

Europe

will

not one day expe*.

**

riencc the fame reverfe ?"

This thought
it

appeared to me diftreffing, yet, perhaps,

maytlie

be

ufeful.

For

let

us

fuppofe that at

time when Egypt and Syria were at the fum-

mit of

their glory,

fome one had delineated

to the people and governments of thofe countries,

their

prefent deplorable ftate; let us

*'

fuppofe he had faid to them,

**

Such

is

the

humiliating

decline

which muft be the

and fuch
political

*'
**
**

confequence
-errors:

of fuch

thus fhall injudicious laws deprive

all

you of
it

your wealth and

all

your

povver-.''

Is

not probable that

thefe

governments

would have taken

utter defl:rud:ion
it is

care to

avoid thofe fata]

miftakes, which muft condu(5t

?

them

to

fuch

What
:

they have not done,

their

in

our power to de

example

may

be a leflbn to ns.
is,

The great

utility

of hiilory

that by reviving the

memory of pafl events,

Travels, in this
this

it

enables the prefent time to anticipate the

coftly fruits of experience.

fcnfe, are

no

lefs ufeful,

and have

advan-

^a^e; that, as they treat of prefent objeds, the

obfervc^r

^00
obferver

TRAVELS
is

IN,

kc,

better able than the

pofthumous
and caufes

hiftorian, to difcover the relations

of

fa(9;s,

and to explain the whole working,

political

however complicated, cf the

chine.

ma-

By

exhibiting,

tc^-ether

with the

prefcnt flate of a country, the nature of the

fubUfling government,
traveller

the narrative of the

its

may

develope the caufes of

great*

nefs

and decline, and furnifh us with means

Seen under this point

to determine the a(5lual duration of the

pire.
is

em* of view, Turkey

a country
I

more

efpecially inftrudiive.
it,

The
the

account

have given of

fhews

how

abufe of authority, by caufmg the mifery of

individuals,

becomes

eventually

deftruftive

to the
fafely

power of a
venture

ffcate ;

and what we
will

may

to predial,

foon prove,

that the ruin of a nation fooner or later recoils

on thofe who have been the caufe of

errors or crimes of thofe
fail

it,

and that the

who

govern cannot

of their punifhment, even

from the very mifery and wretchednefs of

thofe

whom

they have governed.

THE END.

X.

Aentab, village

of,

II.

163

ABdallah

el

Satadj5, hlf-

Agent of the Holy Land, power and dignity of, II.

Agriculture,
II.

Behavitory of, II. 258. our CO a Eunuch fent to the Pone for his head, II. 259.
Vifit paid by him to Aiad, 11.262. Jullice andgood

ftate

of in Syria,
fee

413
Djezzar,

Ahmad
zar.

Djezof in

adminiftration of,

11.

264

Air,

drying quality
I.

Murdered by
II.

his

Nephew,

p:gypt,

70

266.

Abdallah Saker, contrives and eflabiiihes a printingprefs at

Akka, fee Acre. Allah, (Eioih) H. 345. Aleppo Pacha' ic of) limits,
foil,

Mar-Hanna,

II.

and produce

(if,

II.

192 Abdi Pacha, treafures amaffed by, II. 142 Abou-keib, (a kind of fequin) vaiue of, I. 423 Aboudahab, furname given to Mohammad Bey, I. 125

139.

Revenue of

the

Pacha

of, II. 140.

Fo
142.

ces of the

Ancient and prefent population of

Pacha,
11,

the Pachalic of, II. 147 City of defcribed, II.

Acorns eaten by the peafants

in Syria, II. 412.

Aco, fee Acre. Acre, (Pachalic

II. 179.

of) its limits, different at different times,

147. Strength of, II, 149. Popuof, Ir. 150. Air loufnefs of, II. 151. and Climate of, II, 152 Alexandria, prefent ftate of,

Trade

I. 6.

Prefent boundaries of, IT. I So. Productions and trade of, ibid.

Alexandretta,

II.

157.

In-

Revenues and tribute of

the Pacha, II. iSi. Forces of the Pacha, il. 183. (City of) n. 225. Harbor of, II. 2z6. 228. Commerce of, 11. 227 Adjernud, I. 214. Not the ancient Arfmoe, ibid. Adlia, who, 11. 85 Adonis, (river) fee Ibrahim.

conveniencesof the road of, Extreme unwholeibid. fomenefs of, II. 158, 161 Ald?a, etymology of the Spa niiii word, II. 300 Ali;, origin of the feft of, II.

Ali Bey, birth and education of, I. 114. iJromotcd to the rank of Cachef, I, 1 1 8, Is exiled, I. 119. Recalled, ibia. Rebels agaiuii

VoL.il.

LI

N
the Porte,
I.

D
Pro-

X.
Arabs of Egypt,

120.

jeds
].

to traiT^fer the India

trade to the port of Djedda, 121. Forms an alliance

I.
J

7^ 76 Bedouins of Egypt, I,
Afr'can,
I.

I.

76
Bedouins of Syria,
I,

with Shaik Daher,

Takes Damafcus, I. Sudden retreat of Moham-

23. 127.

377. Manners, of, II. 411 Arintathea, fee Ramla.

mad Bey, I. 128. Rcfolves the ruin of Mohammad Bey whoefcapes from Cairo, I. 131. Obliged to take refuge with Daher, I. 133. Sets out to return to Cairo, I. 135. Is defeated and
taken
tions

Aradus, fee Rouad. Armies, Turkifh, confufion and irregularity of, I. 124,
125

Aninoe, (ancient) where

ated,
I.

fitu-

213

Arts, ftate of, in Egypt, I.

prifoner,
I.

His death,

136. 137. ReflecI.

204
in Syria, II.

432

on his conduft and

character, ibid.

Remarks

on the account given of him by M. Savary, and the Hiftory of the Revolt of All 114. Anecdote of himanda Janifarv, I. 142. Ali Dahtr, fon of Shaik Daher, courage and abilities
I.

Afad, Pacha of Damafcus, hiftory of, II. 253. His method of raifing money II. 254. Deprived of his

Bey,

government by Intrigues, 256 AlTaffin.s, who, 11. 4 Afphaltites, (lake) I. 310 Atfioum Geber, (Efion GcII.

of, II.

108.

Attacks and

defeats
II.

Gfman Pacha, ibid.

murdered,
the,
II.

Treacherouily
136.

Alma, account of
44' Aniediens, who,
11.

ber) II. 345 Axios (River) derivation of the name, II. 155 Ayoub Bey, treachery of to Mohammad Bey, I. 132 Azotss, fee Ezdoud.

102

Americans and Arabs compared, II. 409

Anfarians, origin of,
II.
i.

B
Babouches,
II.

(price

of the)

meaning of that
140
I.

exprelfion,

Superllitionof, II. 5. Tribute paid by, II. 169 Autari, what, I. 109 Antioch, preient flate of, II.

Bahr-Belama,

32.

(lake of)

I.

310

AntouraJ. 317.II. 32.II.177 Apamea, fee Famia.

Arab, fignification of the word, I. 379 Arabic language, remarks on.

Bait-djibrim, II. 337 Bailan, village of, II. 161 Bairout, II. 185. Trade of, II. 186. Port of, ibid. Bait-el-laham, (Bethlehem) prefent ftate of, II. 322 BaJbec, ruins of, defcribed, Changes that II. 232. have taken place fmce they

wer?

N
Wood and
II.

X.

were
Itate

vifitecl

by

Dawkins,
of"

II.

239. Preffnt
city of,

Beys of Egypt, office power of, I. 105

and

the

247
Jiidea, IT. 322 Barr-el-Sham, the name given to Syria by the Arabs, I. 288 Barrada, (river) H. 271 Barataire, what, II. 45 Note
.

Birds, fingular amufemrnt they afford at Aleppo, II.

Balm of

Blindncfs extremely at Grand Cairo, caufes of, I. 241

common
I.

240.

II.

427
II. 5

Eatenians,

Beard and

IVludachios, the

want of, difgraceful among the Turks, J. 118

Beauty, 108.

in an unknown language, found near Damictta, I. 284 Bourre.s, waa^, II. 150 Bread and Salt, facred engagement of, II. 76 Bridge over the river Ibrahim,

Books

T urkiih ideas of, I. Of the Georgian

ibid.

il.

176.

Bybiosj fee Djebail.

women,
'

Bedouins of Egypt, I. 'j^ of Syria, I. 377.

Pcrfons of,
ners of, I. Surprize of fome at fight of the fea, I. 391. Extraordinary abllinence of, I. 393

391. 380, 394.

I.

Man-

Cadi el afkar, office of, II. 388 Cairo, (Grand) defcrlbed, I, 233 Caimacan, who, I. 198

Camel
Great

Cauicsand manner of their making war, I. 394. Cuf-

defcribed, I. 388, utility of that anima-l

tom of

retaliation in cafe

Camps

in the def<;ri, ibid, II. 419 of the Bedouin Arabs

of blood,

Their I. 396. depredations on the peafants, I. 399. Government cf, I. 401 . Arts and learn-

ing

406. Hofpitaiity of, I. 412. Religion of, 1. 414. Anecdotes of the ignorance of,
of, I,

delcribed, I. 397 Canal, (ancient) of Suez, L 212 Caracoulouk, who, I. 162 Caravan of M.cca, account
of, II. z'jl-

and generofuy

Trade carried

II. 342 Behairat el Mardj, H. 271

Bekaa, valley of. If. 232 Beniche, I. 169' Berket p1 Hadj, I. 213
Berytus, fvc Bairout. Befnarrai, village of, Betb.a Gabris, il. 337
II.

on by, 11.274. Pillaged in 1767, II. 103. 257 Carduchi, (antient) tlie modern Curds, I. 373 Carmel, mount, ll. 208
Carts, valley of, I. 14 Cafius Mount, I. 292 Caufes, manner of trying in

176

Bethlehem,

II.

322

Turkey, II. 389 Cedars of Lebanon, II. 177

I.

292.

Chalyl)on,

X.

Chalybon,(antient) the fame with Aleppo, II. 147 Cheops, founder of the great pyramid, I. 280 Chrillians, how created by the

Culloms,(Headconimifnoner of in Egypt) price of his contraft, I. 222 Cultom-houfes and impofts in Egypt, I. 222

Turks
/t

in S)ria, II. 399. Unfit to govern in Turkey, 11.449. Compared With the

D
Dahab, (a coin) II, 423 Daher Shaik, fummary of the
hiftory of, II. 91. Said to have been originally a camel driver, ibid. Seizes on Acre, I. 91. Titles af-

Mahometans,

II,

Climate of Egypt,

I.

448 67

(f Syria) I. 313. Varieties of, I. 314 (influence of) remarks on, I. 194. II. 461 Clouds, obfcrv^tions on, I.

~~

fumed by, 1. 102. Defeats O^manPacha of Damafcus,

I,

343
of the Greeks where fiti'ated, I. 213 Ccelc Syria, the prefent Valle) of Bekaa, 11. 232 Coffee, duties on, I, 220 Coftan, what, I. 109 Coins, Turkifli, account of,
Clyiiiia,
11.

Jcins Ali Bev, I. 109. 116, Take.= Yafa, I, '120.

of, I,

Death and charafter

1.3

Dairel Kamar, town of, 189 Dair Mokalles, convent II. 207

II.

of,

422

Damafcus (Pachallc of)

limits

Commerce, flate of, in Egypt,

206
.

of the Endldi with Cairo, I. 225 of the French in Egypt, I. 228 of the French in
Syria, II. 428

and produce of, If, 249. Revenues of the Pacha of, Tribute of, II. 11, 250.
251.
Privileges
as

of

the
11.

Pacha of
250.

Emir Hadj,

Conduit?, wliat, II. 318 Copts, I. 78. Etymology of

the name, 1. 79. Corn, exportation of, prohibited in Egypt, I. 229. Remarked by Pococke to be

Forces of, I J. 252 (City of) delightful fituation of, II. 269, Di menfionsand populoufncfs of, II, 271. Characler of
the inh.ibitants
t^i',

II. 272.

Commerce

of, II.

2-5

called El Sh.im by the Arabs,!. 288. Miltake

detrimental to agri'-ulture,
ibid.

of M. SavHry concerning name, ibid.

its

Couflre,

what, TI. 478 Credulity of the Turks,

II.

Damour, (Rivulet of) the antient Tamyrus, II. 189

DEemoniacs,
ilill

495 Cuble TEgyptian) length

I.

found

in

0;,

Syria, II. 30

38
I.

Curds, manners of the, language of, I. 576

372.

Dances, Turkifh, II. 440 Daoula, who, II. 1 ^4

X.

Daroulfh, Pacha of Damafcus,anecdo.e :>t', II. 266 Dea, what, II. 300

Dead

Sea,

1.

310
II.

385 Deftar, what, 11. 147 Deftardar, who, II. 251

Debs, what,

II. 58. Great power acquired by him in Syria, II. Said to be iiad with 184. his treafures into Bofnia, ibid. Note, chara*^er of, 11.

267

Djirandel, vale of, II. 348

Degnizhi,

I. 134. II. 128.136 Deleti, who, 11. 144 Delibafhes, who, 11. 144

Djouba, I. 109 Djourd, a diilridl Drufcs, II. 190

of

the

Delta, enlargement of the, I. 21.46. Rife of the, I. 35,

Dogs,

numerous
I.

at in

Grand

Cairo,

239.

Miiiakeof M. Savary concerning the inundation there, I. 42 Derhem, what, II. 422 Derviles, facred dance of, II. 44b. Deicrts of Arabia and Syria, catifes of their fterility, I.
z}6.

known

to

go mad
386 318

or Syria, ibid.

Never Egypt Without

owners,

II.

Doura, what,
word,
II.

I.

Drogman, derivation of the

427
Drufes, origin and hiilory of, II. 93. Account of their celebrated Emir Fakr el din, II. 41. Abfurdity of fuppofing them fprung from
the.Crufaders,
II.

Df^fcriptionof, 383 385. Diofpolis, fee Loudd.

Difeftfes

of Egypt,

I.

240

of the word, II. 59 Djazzel Raz, meaning of the words, II. 399 Djebail, the anuent Byblos, II. 176 Djebla, II. 175 Djcbel cl Shaik, IT. 23 Djebel Mokattab, opinion of
fignification

Djahel,

43.

True
name,
59. 53.

etymology of

their
of,

11.44. Religion uf,

II.

Government

II.

Tribute paid by them to the Turks, II. 66. Man69.

WortleyMontague c :)ncerning .the infcriptionb and

figures

ner of declaring war, II. Population and produce of the country of, II. Manners and charac72. ter of, II. 74. 81

found there, II. 352. Thtir meaningmiftaken by

E
Earthquake
Syria,
I.

Gourde Gebeiin,

ibid.

frequent

in

Djendis, fignincation of the

word, II. 73 Pjerda, what, II. 341 Djarm, what, 1. 209 Djfzzar, hillory and advention of
II.

304. Deilruftion caufedbyone in 1759, ibid. Echelle?, derivation of the

tures of, 11, 53. Significathe word, II. 54.

Becomes Pacha of Saide, 57. and of Damaicuj,

word, II. 392 Eden, village of, II. 176 Egypt, general appearance of, I. 10. Nature of the foil of, I. Ancient 13.
liu'^of the fliore of, accord-

iiig

N
I.

t)

E
Faker

X,
el din,

wg

to

Herodotus,

28.

the celebrated
hiltcry

Windsof, I. 55. Climate and air of, I. 64. Various

inhabitants of,
I.

Emir of the Druzes,

of, II. 41

73-

Af-

pedof, 1.259^ Diicoveries which might be made if it were under another government, 3. 284
Egyptians, charafter of,I.202 El Aafi, (the Orontes) fignification of the name, II.

El

Adm, a family of Damafcus long in the pofleffion of the Pachalic, II. 253

Famia, (the ancient Apamea) II. 298 Famine, devaftations caufed by, in Egypt, I. 193 Faran, fl. 346 Faran, vale of, II. 348 Fellahs, what, 1.75 Fire, ceremony of the new, which defcends from heaven on the holy Saturday, at Jerufalem, II. 310
Fogs, obfervations on, I. 345 Fondoucli, (a coin) II. 424 F'rance, llate of its commerce with Egypt, I. 228. With Syria, 11'. 428. With Syria,
11.

fU Akaba, II. 345 EI Arifh, II. 343 .El-baloua, gulohof, defcribed, I. 198 Elias, chapel of the prophet

428

228 Elilha, the ancient name of the Archipelago, II. 222 El Majdal, II. 338 EI Sham, fee Damafcus. El Sharia, fee Jordan. El Tell, II. 336 El Tor, II. 346 Emefa, fee Horns. Emir, fjgnification of the word, 1. 400 power of, among the Bedouin Arabs, I. 400. 402 Emir Hadje, what, II. 250. Great privileges of, ibid. Eiigaddi, Grottoes of, I. 293 Englilh, trade of the, to Cairo, I. 225
II.

on Mount Carmel,

G
Garb,
a dillrift of the Drufes,
II. 190 Gaul, (antient) why colder

than modern France, 1. 334 Gaza, prefentftate and trade

cf, II. 339 Germain, (M. de St.) hardihips endured by, after the

pillage of the Caravans in

176-,

I.

226
the

Government of

Turks,

remarks on the, II. 370 Gravity of the Orieutais, to

what 460

to

be attributed, II.

Gum,

thecaravan with which

travelled, fup-

Mr. Bruce
alone,
I.

Enfyrians, fee Anfarians.

ported feveral days by that

Ermeuaz, I. 301 Eftan, meaning of, I, 90 Ezdoud, (theancientAzotus)

il.

207
caflle of,
II.

Gyndarus,
fuuated,

where

158

338
II

Habroun,
Fakah, what,
II.

II.

324
II.

446

Hadje, wh-it,

250 Hail

INDEX-.
Hail, ftorm of in Egypt,
I.

353

Hakem,
zes,

or chief of the Drupower and authority of, II. 64 Hakem b'amr ellah, I. 100. Account of from El Makin,

Hiftory of the revolt of All Bey, remarks on, I. 116 Horns (the ancient Emefa)
II.

296

Heflein Pacha, why promoted to be Pacha ofDamalcus, II. 256. Profcnbed, IL

n. 36 Halab, Arabic name of the city of Aleppo, II. 147 Hama, II. 9. Water works
there, II. 297

Humming
Syria,
I.

bird

found

in

32Z

an Arab Shaik, independent an I. I21. Deftroyed by Ali Bey, ibid. Heniza ben Ahmud propagates the doftrines of the impoftor Hakem b'amrforms power,
ellah, IF. 38.

Hamman,

Jackalls,
I.

numerous in Svria, 321. II. 386. Janifary, generonty of one to Ali Bey, I: 142 Janifaries in Syria, account
of, II. 143.
of, II.

Arms and drefs 144 Ibrahim, Kiaya of the Jan'flarie?,

Hafbeya, diltri^l of, II. 231 HafTan Bey unites with other Beys, againft Morad and Ibrahim, I. 153 Ilaflan Pacha defeats Shaik Daher, and fends his head
to Conftantinople, II. 131

great power acquir-

ed by, I. 1 12 Ibrahim Bey, I. 165 Ibrahim fon of Solomon, remarkable anecdote of, II.

Hafiaffin,

fignification
II.

of the

Ibrahim Sabbar, minifter cl Dahcr, avarice and meannefs of, 11. 124, 133. Vaft fortune am.aflcd by II. 134,

Hebron,

4 324 Hedjinuj akind of Camel, Great fwiftnefs 350.

il.

word,

IT,

of,

ibid.

death of II. 135 Ibrahim, (river) the ancient Adonis II. 175
Jericho II. 321 Jerulalem, prefent Rate of, II. 302. Epithets given
it

Hendia,

(a

Maronite

girl)

hiftory of, II. 23

Hcfi, II. 337 Hierapolis, fee Mambedj. Hillocks , remarkable inSy ria,
II. 164 Hippocrates, quotation from concerning the indolence and eli'eminacy of the Afia-

304.

by the Orientals, II. Profits made by the

places, II.

governor from the pilgri-

mages and holy

305 Ignorance of the Orientals,

caufes of, II, 448 Impotence common key, 11.485 LI 4
in

ticks,

II.

474

Horfes' the

Mamlouks only
168,

Tur-

permitted to ride them in

Egypt,

I,

Impri-

X.
Pococke, I.
I.

Imprironment for debt unknown in Turkey, II. 408 Inhabitants, various, of Egypt,
I.

miftaken by

73
of Syria,

40 Kamfin, or hot wind, Kan, what, IT. 420

60

I.

356. 36'S

Inns, Turkifh, dcfcribed, II.

420
Intereft,

cuftomary rate of,

II.

in

Svria and Egvpt,

Egypt, various Inundation heights of explained, I. 36. Caufes Seafon of, I. 52.
of, I. 53

John the Maronite, account

of, II. 10 Jordan, (River)
1.

Kan younes, il. 343 Kandjar, what, I. 141 Kan Shaikoun, II. 165 Karadj, what, I. 237. IT. 399, Oppreffive manner of levying, 11.410 Kata, (a coin) II. 423 Katas, what, II. 190 Katim, ancient name of the Ifle of Cyprus, II. 222 Kat fherif, what, II. 107 Keibea, (a fedl of the Anfarians) II.

309. II.
II.

Kera

300
Iron forges of Syria,
Iflota, (a coin) il.

438

423

Ifmael Bey leagues himfelf with other Beys, againft

Morad and Ibrahim,

lilhmus
it, I.

I.

153

of

Suez,

pradticable to

whether cut through

el dars, what, II. 409 Kerfh afadi, (a coin) II. 423 Kervan Serai, what, II. 420 Kefraouan, origin of the name of, II. 12. Boundaries of the country of, II, 176 Kiaya, what, II. 27 Kior Pacha, cruelty of, IF,

9.

210
II.

Kles, village of, II. 163

Juftice, adminiilration of in

Kolzoum,

Turkey,

388, 390
principles

Julliciarians,

of

the, II. 85

I. 213 Koran, the codeof legiflatlon in Turkey, II. 389. Split and tendency of, II. 393^

Precepts of, II. 396. Nun)ber of commentaries on the

Kabila,

fignitication

of the

word, I. 401 Kadmoufia, (a Ceti of theAnfaria'i-s)

fingular tionsof, II. 5.

II.

fuperlti-

firft verfe, II. 446 Kourket, a monaftery of the Maroaites, hiftory ot'' the, 11. ^4 Koz-haia, II. 30

399 Kaifi, party, what, II. 50 Kakan, meaning of the word,

il.

Kafars what,

Language of Egypt, remarks

423
I.

on', I.

Kali,

9
I.

85
,.,,^

83
Difficult of expreffing

Kalidj,1.9
K.alkafenda.'j,

the founds of aforeign one,

account of the alteration of the Mckias, from, I. 39. His meaning

of Syria,

I.

362

Languages

D
Mambedj,
of, ibid.

X.
the ancient Hiefa-

t-anguagesfpokeninthe RufDr. Pallas fian emp re. ordered by the Emprefs to make a cjUeftion of them,

polls, II. 164.

Aqueduft
I,

Mamlouks,
102.

origin of,

96.

1.376
Laodicea, fee Latakia. Latakia, (the ancient Laodicea) II. 174. Harbours of,
ibid. Trade Lawend, who,
of, ibid.
II. 144.. 409 Learning of the Turks, II. 442 Lebanon, mount, I. 293. Height of, I. Z94. Compared with the Alps and Cedars Pyrenees, 1. 295.

Derivation of the name, I. 103. Military

conftitution
of, I. 165. Drefs, I, 168. Horfe accoutrements, 1. 171. Arms, I. 174; Education and exercifes, I. 175. Military
flcill,

I.

178. Difcipline, I.

Manners, I. 184. Government, I. 186 Manfour, Emirof theDruzes,

181.

of,

I.

29Z.

Wines

of, II.

204 Legend of
II.

the Turkifh coin,

423

Leventi, who, II. 144 Library r f Mar Hanna, cata-

logue

of, II.

200

of Djezzar, II. 200

Libraries in Syria, IT. 448 Locufts, prodigious numbers of, I. 315. Their dreadful devaltation, ibid.

n. 49 Marine, (la) village of,II. 1 70 Marra, II. 297 Mardaites, who, II. 11 Mar Elias el R-^um, I. 298 Mares, high prices paid for by Shaik Daher, II. 132/ Ufefulnefs and value of to the Bedouin Arabs, I. 406 Strange affertion that the/do not neigh, ibid. Mar Hanna el Shouair, (Convent of) II. 190. Account of the Arabic printingprefs there, II.
11.
;

Louid, Lydda,

II.
fee

332 Loudd,

M
Madjoun,
word,
I.
^

191. 4^^. Catalogue of the library of,

fignification

of the

204

Monks

of;,

rules

and

II.

485

life of, II.

203

Magarbe orM(.grab!ans,who,
76. II. 145

Maronites, origin and hiftory

of, II. 8.

Mahkama,

what, II, 389 Maliemetans, external devo-

II. 16.

Government of, Manners and cufReligion

toms

of. If. 17.

400 Mahomttanifm, remarks on,

tion of, II.
II.

of, II. 20.

Manners of the
II. 29. 11.

clergy, II. 22.

their

393
Ifmael,
a

monks,

Mahauiined ben

bute paid by,

Rules of Tri169
il.

pre:endedpr>phet joins the impoiLor Haftem b'amr

Majuniie, of the what, II. 170 ^
ellah, II. 37

Mar

un, tne hermit,

village

Martawan,

9
II.'

of,

ancients,

162. S ngular licentious cult-^ms of the inhabitants

of, ibid.

Marvellouj.

N
Marvellous,
paffion of
II.

P
the

y.
the enmity between liim and Ali Bey, I. 131. Defeats Ali Bey and takes him prifoner, I. Aiks 136.

Turks
M,,fr,
1.

for the,

496

233.

Mxtnioures, what, II. 413 MatHOub, figrafication of the \\^rd, I. 412 lvl<i*:i -, adiflriclof the Druzes.
li.
i'90

permiflion of the Porte to

make waronDaher,
Befieges

1.

Yafa,
I.

1.

143. 145.

Cruelty of,
to,

after

tr.king

Mecca, pilgrimage,
'

ex-

that place,
of, I. 151

149.

Death
II.

pence -of, II. carried on by,

2i^i.
II.

Trade
at

Medak,
'

ant^eut,
11.'

274 found

Mohammed
298
169

el

Koufan,
II.

Hebron,

244

Mokaddamim, who,
II.

S,

M^din', (3.'coin) II. 423 Mehaflel, whatj II. 140 Mflcias, or Niion eter, I. 39. I/IeUv3JH, Emir of the Druzes,
'^^fr.'48
"

Mokattam mount,

I.

Meikana, what, II. 329 M^lkites, who, II. 10

Pvierkab, II. 175 Mefria, a coin, II.

423

Mefmia,
Metelis,
verted,

II.

336
Savary's poficontro-

M.

Mokodfi, who, II. 311 Money, Turkilh, II. 422. Always weighed, ibid. Monks of Yafa and Ramla, infolence and tyranny of, II. 320 Monallic life, reafons why embraced in Syria, II. 354 Montefquieu, his fyftem of
influence of climate controverted, II. 461 Morad Bey defeats Ali Bey and takes him prifoner, L Divides the autho136.
rity

tions concerning,
I. :!3

the

Meteorological ob^jrvatlons, Syria a cc untry woil adapted for, I. 327 Military operations of the Turks, confufion and diforder of, I. 126

with Ibrah'm Bey after

I.

the death of Mahommad,

152.
Difl'entions

Mir,
11.

I.

223.

II.

6$.

Cannot

and difputes between him and the

other Beys,
I.

be increafed or diminifhed,

153

407

Mofque of

flowers, a fort of

Miffionaries, effects of their

hofpital for the blind, at

labours
nites, II.

among
32

the

Maro-

Cairo, I. 241 Molladjir, fignificationof the

Mograbians, who, II. 145. Arms and drefs of, II. 140.

Fay

of, ibid.

Mchrnimad Bey, furnamed

word, I. 412 Motouali, meaning of the word, II. 84 Motoualis, manners, character,

AH

Abuudahab, favourite of Bey, commands the

and

hiftory of, II. 84.

armyof
mafctts,

Ali,
I.

I.

125.

His

precipitate retreatfrom
12 8.

DaCaufeof

Five hundred defeat ti-. enty five thoufand Druzes and Maronites, II. 113

Motion,

D
which

X,
it is

Motion of the earth never heard of by the monks of Mir Hanua, IT. 444 Mount Sijrji, Convent of, II.
351.

riftn explained,

fuppofedtohavc I. 36

Nilometcr, various divifions of the, I. 39

Greeks
the

Pilgrimage of the to, ibid. Life of

of, 11.

O
Ofor, II. 292 Ogouxiatis, I. 92
1

Monks

353

Mountains of Syria, J. 291. Romantic fcenes they prefent, I. 297.

I.

Okkals, whn, U. 59

Strufture of,
II.

Old man of the Hiouutain,

II.

301

Mufick, Turkifl),

43S

N
Nablous, country ard town
of,
II.

301

Nahou, what, II. 446 Nahr Bairout, II. 185 Nahr el kahir, II. Nahr el kelb, I. 298 Nahr el Itb^n, I. 297 Nahr el Salib, I. 29-.
i

Ophir, remarks concerning JJ. 292 Orontes, (river) I. 509. I[. '5? Ofmcir. ir.adc Pacha of Dsmafctis to oppofe the povvtr of Daher, 11. 50. Defeated

LyDaher,

If. 109. By his intrigues prevail on Mo-

hammad Uev
II.

to
I.
j

retreat

185

from Datnfcus, Ofmanles, 1. 94.

28

Najd, great defert

I.

fo called,

385

Nailiid,

who,

II.

494

Pachas, powerof,
Political

II.

Nafireans, fee Aniitrians; NalTnris, fee Anfarians.

condu(ft

376. 384. of the

Porte towards,
I.

II.

3S0
real

Nafra (Nazareth) il. 229 Natron, lakes of deicribed,

Pacha of Egypt, powerof, I. 162

duct'ons, cf,
vifion of, II.
Pala:
II.

jirtie

Paleiilne, limits, foil,

Na/areth, fee Nafra the Negroes, remark on countenances of, I. 80. The ancient Egyptians real
negroes, ibid. Nerkeelj what, IF. 109

and pro328. Di21 -,

329

Tyrus,

U. z\6,

218
Pallas,

Dr. ordered by the Emprefs of Ruifia to make

all

Nieubhr, M. antiquities

dlfI,

a colleiftion of

the lan-

covered by, at Rofetta,

Nile, veneration in which it is held by the Egyptians, I, jtJ. Method of Purifying Pafiage its waters, I. 20. ofHerodotus concerning its antient courfe explained, I, Various heights to 31,

guages fpokea in that empire, I. 376 Palmyra, accountof the ruins

of, II. 277. 2S2.

Account

of the jonrney cf Wood and

Dawkins

to,

from Wood's

Ruins of Palmyra, II. 279, Dcfcription of the preicnt

inhabitants

h
the Bedouins, !!

inhabitants from Wood, 11. 287. Remarks on, II. 289 Peafants of Egypt, capable of fupporting great fatigue,

411
Prnvifions, care cf the Pachas
to

keep them cheap in the

I.

202
of Syria,
far e of, II.
II.

406.

great towns, II. 416 Ptolemais, See Acre

412 People, (common) of Egypt,

condition Perfpiration,
<

Hard

Pyramid, etymology cf the word, I. 279

f, I.

187

Pyramid of heads erefted by

and
I.

profufion

neceffity of in

Egypt,

68

Pharos, pail'age in Homer and M. Savary's opinion c mcerning it confidcred, I. 24

Phcenicum,oppidum, II. 292 Pigeons of Aleppo, manner offending advice by, II.
Pilgrimage to Jerufalem, efficacioufnefs of, according to the Greeks, II. 308.

Mohammad Bey, after taking Yafa, I. 150 Pyramids, obfervat ons on the, I. 271. Dimenfions of the great one, according to a late menfuration, For what purI. 273.
pofe erefted, I. 275. The great one founded by Cheops, I. 280. Method of forming an idea of their prodigious fize, I.

Account
ravan.

of,

to

ibd Mecca,

282
fee

Ca

R
Rabia what, II. 205 Rabbit and pigeon iflands, II. 170 Raguier (le) wind fo called,
II.

Plague, not native in Egypt, 1.253. Progrefs( f it in that cauntry, ibid, and in Syria,
I.

256

Plants, exot'c will not natu-

157
(the

Egypt, I. 71 Polygamy, remarks on, II, 485 Psmpey's pillar, I. 6 Population of Cairo and Egypt, I. 236 Poflelfi-n and Epilepfy denoted by the fame word in
ralize in

Raha

ancent Jericho)

II. 321 Rain, jov of the people when it falls in Egypt, I. 56

Ramla

(the ancient Aiimathea} prefent ilate of, li.

333.

Aati.qulty
aen, II. 2(4

at,

II.

Arab

c, II.

31

335

Printing, advantageous confeqnences of the invention

cf, II,

Rai

el

Raf

el

Kanzir,
I.

II.

157

450
_

Raf-el-tin,

Property, nature cf in Turkey, II. 402 Proverb (Arabic) concerning the Turks, II, 96 the inhabitants of

P.awazi, who,
ii.

II. 441 Raya, meaning of the word,

361

Regifters of births or deaths, prejudices of the Turks

agaiull,
I.

Damafcus,
'

II.

272
pilgrims

237
Religion

the
II.

of

Mecca,

27a

N
Religion of the Turks, obfervations on,^;!!. 393

D
on
his

X.
account of Ali Bey,
See
Alcxan-,

116

Retaliation, cullomofamong the Egyptians and Arabs,

I. 203 Rhofu', mountain of, II. 157 Ribeira (J. Juan) Agent of

Scandaroon,
dretta

Sea, furprife of the Bedouin Arabs at feeing it, I. 391 Seed time in Syria, when,
I.

the

Hoiy Land,

his

re-

325

pr fentations to the King of Spain, II. 315 Rofctta, beauty of, I, 9 Ratle, vvh.it, 11,422

Seleucia, ancient, fmall re-

mains of, II. 156 Sequins, value of, II. 424 worn as an ornament by
the Turkifli
S'-rradjcs,

Rouad,
ria,

II, .175
II.

women,
I.

ibid.

Rui.ns, quantities of, in Sy-

what,

167

298
S.

Sabbar, fignification of the wora, I, 144 See Ibrahim ,

II.

Sahel, adiiirift of the Drufes,

Shaik, meaning of the word^ I. 106, II. 15. 214. Shaik Daher. See Daher. Shaik el Beied, who, L 106 Shaik el Djebal, who, II. 5 Sh' iks of the Bedouin Arabs, 1.400. Simplicity of their

190
hifiory of, 11. 49

manners,
fation
Oi'

Sad

cl Ivouri,

I. 405. Converthe author with

Safad, II. 230 Safadians, who, I. 125 Saide, Pachalic of. See Acre City of, (the ancient Sidon) defcription of, II.

one, Shakif,

I.

415
a
diflrift

Druzes, Shamfia, a

11.

feft

of the 190 of the Anfa-

207. 208.

.11 hour of, II. Strength of, II. 209,

rians, II. 5

Shawls, U. 151 Shooting Ihirs^ mules killed

by, I. 355 Shout, a diftri(5t Druzes, II. 190
Shiites, II. 84.

Trade

of,

ibid.

Salamalek, derivation of the word, II. 400 Samarmar, a kind of bird

of

the

which deitroys the

locuils,

Sannin, or fummit of Lebanon, extenfive view from, I. Figurative ex295. prefhon of the Arabian poets, concerning, I. 316, Obfervations on the clouds
there,
I.

Sidon. See Saide Siege of Yafa, ftrange manner in which it was con duded, i. 146 Slaves, different degrees of elt'mation in which the Turks hold thofe of different nations,
I.
1

17
in

347, 350
of, 11.

Small

Sauveur, St. convent

Savary,

pox Egypt,

very
I.

fatal

245,

Ho\r

treated there, ibid.

opinions of, controverted, 1.21. Remarks

M.

Soldiers Turkilh, good oualities of, il.

363
Sonn'ites,

N
Scnnltes, II. 84 Souaidia (the ancient Seleucia) II. 156. Sour (the ancient Tyre) II.

X.
Tabor, mount,
II.

izr;.

Pro.

fpeil from, ibid.

Tales aad declamations, fondnefs of the Turks for, II.

Harbour of, 211. Aqueduft and well See Tyre II. 213.

ibid.
there.

494 Tamyras (river). SeeDamour Tar (Retaliation in cafes of

blood ftriftnels with which it is purlued by the Bedouin Arabs, I. 396 Tarabolos. See Tripoly. Tartar courier, ]I. 418

Suez, whether prafticable to cut a canal through tlie Acillhmus of, I. 210. count of the ancient canal Not the anof, I. 212. 213. cient Arfinoe, I. Commerce of, I. 214. Barren fituatiiiu of, 1. 216.
Caftle ot, ibid.
I.

Tawara(ArabsofTorII. 349 Telah, a diftrift of the Druzes, II. 190 Tents of the Bedouin Afabs

Road

of,

217
titles

Sultan,
II.

aiTumed
I.

by,

Thunder,

37Z
2S8.

defcribed, I, 397. obfervations on, in Syria and Egypt, I. 352

,

Syria, boundaries of,

General appearance of the Climate country, I. 289. Various proof, I. 313. dudions of, I. 317. AnjAir of, jnais of, I. 321,
1.3-13.

Tiberias
baria,

(lake).

caufes of, I. 353 See 'I'a-

Tib, defert of, II. 347 Tobel, or Teblis, where,

223

II.

Winds

of, I.

326.

Tombs,

Turkifli,

I.

102
Eaflern

Various races of inhabiSoil and tants of, 1. 326.

Traditions

of

the

countries, remarks on the.

Anclimate of, II. 358. nua! tribute paid to the treafury of the Sultan, Produce of, to II. 360. ihofe who farm it. II. 361. Military eilabliflimcnt of, population of, 362. II.
Ancient populoulheib of, II. 366 Svrlans, complexions and perfons of. I. 560 Syriac (ancient) no longer fpoken in any part of byria, I. 363

Travels, their utility, II, 499 Travellers, exaagerations of,

I. 266 Travelling,

manner
II.

of,

in

Turkey,

420

H.

364.

Tree?, falubrious eftcft of, II. 188 Trials, how conduflcd ia 7'urkey, II. 389 Tripoli, Pachalic of, limits, of, foil, and productions
II.

167.

forces"
II.

Revenues and of the pacha of,

of,
II.

168

City

160.

T
Tabarla (lake) 107. 330
3
I,

310.

II.

Commerce of, II. 172 Turkmans, I. 91. Manners

and cuftoms
of, I.

369 Turks,

N
Turks, origin of
the,
I.

D
90.
I.

X.
Wind, fyflem of
330
its

caufes,

Tyre (now Sour) fignihcation of the name of, II.

218. Hiftorical account of,
ibid.
II.

Wind:, in Egypt, obfervations on the, 1. 55. Hot, or

Power and trade

of,

Kamfin,
on

I.

60 326

Mirtake of Jo220. concerning, II. fephus^

in Syria, obfervations

the, I.

Prophecy concernSee Sour ing, II. 220.

219.

Win.-imii.l,

the only one :he

U
Villages,

number
I.

of,

in

Author had feen in Syria and Egypt, ahere, II. 334 Women^ remarks on the-ftate of, in the Eaft, II, 481

Egypt,
Vification,
II.

238 convent or the,

178
303.

Volcanos antiently in Syria,

I.

Yabna (the ancient Yamnia) n. 337 Yafa, the ftrange manner in

which the hege of
it

was

Unlucky days, fuperftition of the Turks concerning,

I.

ccndufted,
,

I.

146

trade

215
exceffive,

of,

IL 330.
331

and revenue Harbour of,

II.

Ufury
II.

in

Syria,

II.

411.

Yamani

party, what,
a
fedl

50

W
Wakf, what,
Walda, who,
II. II.

Yafdia,

among the

Curds, their religious prin-

403 330

ciples, I.

375
288 164

Yemen,
word,

fignification of the
I.

WaU,
of,

office

and authority
the Arabs
tribes,

IL 3S4 Wandering lite of

and other
caufes of
It,

Yerabolos,

II.

erratic
I.

it, War, manner among the Druzes, II. 69. Water fpouts in Syria, J.

38' of declaring

Zihla, village of, II. i8g Zahr jnahaboub (a Turkifa

coin) II. 424 Ziwan, what^ II, 412 Zakk'un, a ipecies of balm,
II.

340.

caufes of, ibid.

Weights,

Turkilh, account

322
4-.:

of, II. 386.

Zolat;i (a Turkifli coin^ va*

lue of, II.

f^M