1933Principles of Tailoring

Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken

Essentials of Tailoring
SCOPE OF TAILORING 1. What is Tailoring?Tailoring is one of the foremost of the sewing arts, because more than two thir!s of the garments worn re"uire some form of tailoring. #t really is a recogni$e! tra!e followe! by many hun!re!s of people, men especially. Time, patience, an! a knowle!ge of both garment construction an! materials are essential in one%s training for tailoring. &ntil about a half century ago, many materials were of a 'ery hea'y "uality, so that much care ha! to be gi'en to their assembling, basting, steaming, an! pressing to obtain goo! looking results. To!ay, with the wea'er%s art so perfecte! that e("uisite fabrics are offere! on all si!es, 'ery ine(pensi'ely price! in proportion to "uality, the responsibility is re'erse!. )ow, one nee!s not so much to beautify the fabric by careful sewing as to !o *ustice to its beauty by sewing it as perfectly as possible. +hen much sewing, basting, an! pressing, especially machine sewing, must be !one, the work properly comes un!er the hea! of tailoringa wor! fre"uently misun!erstoo!. Many persons, in thinking of tailoring, think only of suits with pa!!ing an! hea'y seams, brai! trimme! skirts, an! linings throughout. But to!ay, one tailors a silk, machine ma!e blouse, a sports skirt, or a simple frock of linen or flannel. ,heer materials, fine silks, an! laces are generally reser'e! for lingerie sewing or !ressmaking, but all other mo!erately firm fabrics that re"uire the frien!ship of sponge cloth an! iron an! that !eman! basting an! straight, perfect stitching, may safely be classe! with tailoring materials. -. Necessity for Good Equipment.Making tailore! garments is often regar!e! a much more !ifficult task than making fluffy, frilly ones, but this is not necessarily the case. True, tailoring is not of the sewing basket 'ariety. .ne must sprea! all pieces out on a flat surface, cut all seam e!ges neatly, *oin all e!ges accurately, an! baste with a !efinite precision. But none of these is a !ifficult process nor re"uires any more effort than work on lingerie garments, particularly if the right sort of e"uipment is chosen. #n a!!ition to the special e"uipment mentione! later, be sure to ha'e a cutting boar! or table, on which both cutting an! basting may be !one/ a firm, well pa!!e! ironing boar!/ shears that are sharp/ an! a machine that is well

regulate! as to stitch, an elastic, me!ium long stitch pro'ing best, because tailoring materials are usually fairly hea'y an! by their thickness shorten the stitch somewhat. 0lso, ha'e your brush 1a substantial clothes brush is satisfactory, or a tailor%s brush is e'en more !esirable2 washe! an! kept perfectly clean for lifting the nap on fabrics when, by acci!ent, it is presse! too flat with too hot an iron. )umber 3 or 4 sewing nee!les are usually best for tailoring. ,ilk or merceri$e! cotton threa! shoul! be use! for tailoring. 3. Requisites of Good Tailoring.#n tailoring, 'ery accurate patterns are almost a necessity, for in materials that are e'en slightly hea'y, perfect seams are necessary. #rregular seams might go unnotice! in a 'oile !ress that is full an! easy, but in a linen !ress, because of its 'ery plainness, a *agge! or an une'en seam will spoil the whole appearance. 0 goo! tailor always sponges an! shrinks his material, so that the seams of the garment will not shrink une'enly in the process of making nor spot or shrink from !ampness when it is worn. .f course, all woolen materials are shrunk, or sponge!, in the process of manufacture/ ne'ertheless, in spite of the fact that merchants in some cases insist that certain materials !o not ha'e to be treate! in this manner, it is a!'isable to !o so, because materials that are kept in stock become rela(e! an! nee! to be responge! to be in con!ition for cutting. #n the large cities, it is possible to ha'e the cloth shrunk by the merchant from whom it is purchase!, usually at a small a!!itional cost per yar!/ but in the smaller cities an! towns, the stores, as a rule, are not e"uippe! to carry on such work, an! it must of necessity be !one at home. 5. +ith the material shrunk an! the perfection of his pattern !etermine!, a tailor marks each si!e e(actly alike so that the pattern pieces will go together perfectly. )e(t, he bastes with as much care as though the garment were to be ma!e by han!. Before he starts to stitch, he tries a scrap of two thicknesses of material un!er the presser foot to satisfy himself that the machine is free of !ripping oil, that the stitch is easy an! of the right length, that the tension is free enough, that the machine nee!le is smooth an! perfect at its point, an! that the nee!le itself is correctly set. +ith these precautions, neat satisfying work is sure to result an! a pri!e be !e'elope! that will make tailoring a real *oy an! inspiration.

T0#6.7#)8 9:&#PM9)T
;. ,o that the best results may be obtaine! in the !e'elopment of tailore! garments, a certain amount of e"uipment is necessary. 0s many of these articles are in common use in the home, first see what e"uipment you ha'e on han! that may be utili$e!, an! then pro'i!e as much new e"uipment as you consi!er essential for your purpose. The 'arious kin!s of tailoring e"uipment are

consi!ere! here, for e'en though some of these are not an actual necessity for home use, all are a !eci!e! con'enience. Then, too, it is important that you gain a 'ery clear un!erstan!ing of their appearance an! use so that if you are e'er calle! upon to !o such work you will be familiar with all the e"uipment. <. Sponge and Press Cloths.#f you inten! to !o much pressing, you will fin! one sponge or, better still, a me!ium si$e sponge an! two press cloths, a con'enience. These cloths shoul! be use! for no other purpose than sponging an! pressing materials an! garments in the making. =irm, unbleache! muslin or light weight !uck or !rilling is suitable for sponge cloths, > to ? yar! of this being sufficient for each one. Take the precaution not to ha'e the press cloths linty nor too sheer. =or each press cloth, pro'i!e about 1? yar!s of unbleache! muslin/ #t is not necessary to hem any of these pieces, but, if you wish, you may pink or o'ercast the raw e!ges to pre'ent them from ra'eling. 3. #n or!er to remo'e the filling that is put in when the material is wo'en, boil the cloths before using them in fairly strong soapsu!s to which a pinch of baking so!a has been a!!e!. This precaution shoul! always be taken, because new muslin scorches rea!ily an! because it is almost impossible for the new material to absorb sufficient water to be of any ser'ice in sponging if the filling is not remo'e!. 4. Brushes.#n sponging an! pressing materials, an! especially in !ampening the press cloths, to a'oi! making them too wet, you will fin! a small brush in'aluable. This may be of the type commonly use! for cleaning 'egetables, one about 5 inches long an! - inches wi!e, with strong bristles ? to @ inch long an! an, un'arnishe! back that may be washe!, being suitable. ,uch brushes are 'ery ine(pensi'e an! will last in!efinitely. 9. 0nother !esirable article is a tailor's brush, which is a hea'y brush with a long han!le an! a flat top. #t is useful in both pressing an! steaming garments, the back of it to beat !own hea'y seams or any thick places an! the bristles to ai! in sen!ing steam through the material an! keeping its nap up. ,uch brushes may be purchase! in any tailors% supply house. The woo!en part of the brush must be unfinishe!, or un'arnishe!, howe'er/ if it is 'arnishe!, there is always !anger of ruining garments on which it is use! because of the fact that the steam generate! in pressing an! steaming garments will soften the 'arnish. 1A. 0n or!inary whisk broom, too, shoul! be on han! for this work, as it is 'aluable for raising the nap of material when steaming garments if something stiffer than a brush is re"uire!. #t is useful, also, in pressing materials that ha'e a 'ery long nap, as such nap must always be brushe! straight before pressing.

11. rons.#n or!er to obtain the best results in the pressing of woolen materials, a hea'y iron is essential. 0s a rule, the flat irons use! in the home come in sets of three/ it is the hea'iest of these three that is most suitable for such work. 0 me!ium si$e! or large electric iron, the kin! commonly in use in the home, because of its weight, is e'en better for tailoring than an or!inary flat iron. 1-. 0n iron much hea'ier than an or!inary flat iron an! known as a tailor's goose is consi!ere! a necessity in tailoring establishments. This may be ha! in weights ranging from 1< to -5 poun!s. 13. roning Board.=or pressing an! sponging, or shrinking, woolen materials, a smooth, well pa!!e! ironing board of goo! si$e is an absolute necessity/ that is, one at least ; feet long an! 1- to 15 inches wi!e, so that it will accommo!ate practically any skirt. Many persons are of the opinion that an ironing boar! re"uires but little pa!!ing/ such is not the case, howe'er, for to get the best results sufficient pa!!ing shoul! be use! to gi'e a firm, smooth surface. 6ight colore!, worn woolen blankets make the best pa!!ing for an ironing boar!, especially a boar! on which woolen materials are to be presse!, because the wool has a ten!ency to Bgi'eB un!er the material that is being presse!, thus making possible a softer, smoother presse! finish than woul! otherwise be the case. #f wool for pa!!ing is not procurable, a worn cotton blanket may be use!, or, if !esire!, 'ery hea'y flannelette may be purchase! for the purpose. The chief essential is to ha'e each thickness of pa!!ing in one piece, so as to a'oi! seams or ri!ges on the pa!!e! boar!. 0s a rule, the pa!!ing shoul! be from > to 3C4 inches thick. The co'ering for an ironing boar! shoul! be ma!e of unbleache! muslin of a me!ium "uality. )ew muslin that has been washe! is best, because it has 'ery little lint. .l! sheets make an e(cellent co'ering for an ironing boar! on which light colore! wash garments are to be irone! an! presse!, but a co'ering with any sign of lint shoul! always be a'oi!e! where !ark materials, especially woolens, are to be presse!. 15. ,mall hol!ers for stretching an! keeping in place both the pa!!ing an! the co'ering of an ironing boar! may be purchase! in sets of four or si( at a 'ery low cost. These hol!ers are e(cellent for stretching out e'ery wrinkle an! for hol!ing the pa!!ing permanently in place. Dowe'er, if they cannot be procure!, the boar! may be pa!!e! an! co'ere! as followsE ,tretch both the pa!!ing an! the co'ering o'er the boar!, one at a time, *ust as tight as possible, an! tack them in place on the un!erneath si!e, placing a tack e'ery - or 3 inches so as to make sure of hol!ing the material in place. To

get the best results in the co'ering of a boar!, the pa!!ing an! the co'ering shoul! be at least - or 3 inches larger in e'ery way than the top of the ironing boar!. Begin by tacking the mi!!le of the pieces of material to the mi!!le of the boar!/ that is, the center of each en! an! the center of each e!ge. Tack, first, one en!/ then !raw the material across tight an! tack the other en!/ ne(t, tack one e!ge an! then the other, !rawing the co'ering an! pa!!ing materials tight in each instance. )e(t, !raw the corners of the material to their respecti'e corners an! tack them in place, stretching the materials well along the lines lea!ing to the mi!!le tacks. +ith this !one, fasten the rest of the pa!!ing in place, putting tacks between those alrea!y in place. This metho! ob'iates the gathering of fulness at any point, which woul! result in wrinkles otherwise impossible to work out. 1;. Slee!e Board.0fter the seams of a slee'e of woolen or of silk material ha'e been *oine!, it is !ifficult to press them open without consi!erable care an! effort or to press the slee'e satisfactorily in its entirety without the use of a slee'e boar!. 0 slee'e boar! shoul! be pa!!e! an! co'ere! in practically the same manner as an ironing boar!. #t shoul! be slen!er an! on a substantial stan!, if possible. 1<. Edge and Seam Pressers.0n edge press block, which consists of a piece of har! woo!, @ to 1 inch in thickness, mounte! e!gewise on a stan! an! pointe! at each en!, is a great con'enience for the pressing open of the seam that *oins the facing to a coat. This boar! is use! without pa!!ing. The pointe! en!s make it possible to push the boar! well up into the corners of the re'ers an! thus permit a tailore! effect that it is !ifficult to obtain otherwise. =or home tailoring, a thin piece of har! woo! may be substitute! for the e!ge press block. Fut this @ to 1 inch wi!e, point it at the en!s, an! san! paper it until it is perfectly smooth. 13. 0 covered broom stick may be use! to e(cellent a!'antage in the pressing of seams, especially in materials that re"uire unusual care in han!ling in or!er to pre'ent them from becoming shiny. +ith the seam lai! o'er the cur'e! surface of the broom stick, it is possible to press only the center of the seam an! pre'ent the outer seam e!ges from forming a ri!ge or shiny line on the right si!e of the fabric. To prepare a broom stick for a seam presser, pa! it with a thin layer of cotton or win! it with soft rags, being careful to !istribute the thickness 'ery e'enly/ then co'er the pa!!ing with muslin, stretching this as tight as possible, an! whip one turne! e!ge o'er the other e!ge so as to secure it.

14. 0 velvet presser, which is a !e'ice consisting of a boar! set with firm, fine, wire pro*ections, or teeth, closely lai!, makes it possible to press 'el'et or other nappe! fabrics without flattening the pile an! makes unnecessary the steaming metho! that must otherwise be employe!. To use such a presser, place the fabric, face !own, on the presser, so that the nap is !ownwar! on the teeth of the presser. Then put a slightly !ampene! cloth on the back of the fabric an! press it with a me!ium hot iron. This pressing will sen! the steam through the pile an! raise it an!, at the same time, remo'e any wrinkles in the 'el'et. 19. "am Cushion.=or the pressing of cur'e! seams, such as the bust an! shoul!er seams of coats an! !resses an! the hip seams of coats an! skirts, there is perhaps no better !e'ice than what is commonly known by tailors as a ham cushion/ in fact, no custom tailoring establishment is complete without one. ,uch a cushion, which is illustrate! in =ig. 1, consists simply of a co'ering of white tailors% felt carefully stuffe! with rags. Dam cushions can be purchase! in tailors% supply houses, but a cushion that will pro'e to be *ust as ser'iceable an! much less e(pensi'e can be ma!e in the home. -A. =or a ham cushion, purchase at a tailors% supply house ;C4 yar! of 3< inch white tailors% felt. ,uch felt, which is ma!e up an! sol! especially for this purpose, is 'ery !urable an! firm an! will gi'e the best possible ser'ice. The small pieces of felt that remain after cutting out the co'ering nee! not be waste!, for they can be use! to make a cushion one fourth as large as the other, which will be foun! 'ery useful as it can be use! insi!e of slee'es, un!er the armhole seam, an! in many places where the large one might be too large or too unhan!y. #n a!!ition to the felt, pro'i!e sufficient hea'y muslin or galatea for an interlining an! enough clean, ol! woolen rags for stuffing. 7ags from ol! woolen shirts, coats, or blankets are satisfactory, pro'i!e! all har! spots are remo'e!. -1. #n or!er to cut out the co'ering an! the interlining for a ham cushion, !e'elop a pattern in the manner shown in =ig. -, as followsE =ol! lengthwise through the center a piece of paper that is 15 inches wi!e an! -1 inches long, an!, then, with the fol!e! e!ge ne(t to you, locate the necessary points for outlining the pattern. 6ocate point A 1 inch from the right e!ge of the paper/ point !irectly abo'e to D, from ! to 19 inches to the left of A on the fol!/ point ! < inches / an! point D < inches !irectly abo'e A. Then !raw lines from A , an! from D to !. To locate points to be use! as an ai! in
-1

!rawing the cur'es, place point

? inches abo'e

on line

!/ point A" 1

inch abo'e A on line AD/ point E mi!way between ! an! D/ an! point E" inches to the left of E. Then connect
", "

an! E"# as well as E an! A", with a well

cur'e! line, as shown in the illustration, being careful to a'oi! forming points at E", 9, an! A". To form the pattern, which, when cut out, shoul! be egg shape!, cut through both thicknesses of paper, from through E an! A" to A. --. +hen the pattern is cut out, place the lengthwise center on a !ouble thickness of the felt fol!e! to pro!uce a true bias an! cut out the cushion co'ering. Futting the material on the true bias will enable you to shape the cushion more easily. Go not allow for seams, as the e!ges of the felt must be whippe! together, as shown in =ig. 1. 0lso cut out the interlining, using the same pattern, but allowing 3C4 inch seams on all e!ges. +ith the material cut out, the ne(t process will be to seam the interlining together with the e(ception of a small opening to a!mit the filling, an! then prepare the filling. To make the filling, tear an! cut into small pieces ol! woolen rags that are free from har! seams, an! !ampen these bits of material a trifle so that they will pack 'ery tight. Then procee! to stuff them into the interlining, being careful to pack the rags e'en an! close, so that the outsi!e will be smooth an! firm. 0fter making sure that the interlining is stuffe! as full as possible an! will keep its shape, close the opening of the interlining with !iagonal basting an! then o'erhan! it closely. +ith the interlining thus prepare!, place the felt o'er it, an! then, !rawing the e!ges together, o'erhan! them closely, keeping the surface absolutely smooth an! as tight as possible. Put such a cushion, after making, in the sun, near the sto'e or on a ra!iator so that the rags that ha'e been !ampene! may become thoroughly !ry. .f course, if the cushion is put into use at once, the heat from the iron will !ry it sufficiently. -3. Cheese Bloc#.+hen it is !esire! to press seams 'ery flat an! har! or to make them scarcely 'isible, it is well to use a press block, commonly calle! a cheese block, one style of which is shown in =ig. 3. ,uch a block consists of a piece of 3 inch oak that measures 14 inches on the straight si!e an! 15 inches across, an! is co'ere! with two thicknesses of tailors% felt stretche! *ust as tight as possible an! tacke! in place on the block, as shown. -5. Tailors$ Press Stand.0nother !e'ice use! in pressing tailore! work is the tailors' press stand shown in =ig. 5. ,uch a stan! may be ma!e to take the place through
"

to E", an! from E"

of a ham cushion, an! as it has a slee'e boar! attache!, as at a, it has a !ouble utility 'alue. 0 tailors% press stan! is usually -4 inches long, 3 inches high, an! 1A inches wi!e. Dowe'er, if e(pense must be consi!ere!, the ham cushion in connection with a regulation slee'e boar! will gi'e perfectly satisfactory ser'ice. -;. Pin#ing %achine or Scissors.Pinking, which consists of a series of notches or small scallops in plain or fancy effects, is sometimes use! for finishing seam e!ges or as a trimming for the e!ges of ruffles. #t is !one by means of specially constructe! scissors or a small han! machine. 9ither of these !e'ices will be a time sa'er in the workroom, for the finish they pro!uce will be a satisfactory substitute for o'ercasting or bin!ing on material that is firm enough not to ra'el to any great e(tent. -<. The pinking machine is usually pro'i!e! with two or three bla!es for 'ariety, one for cutting a small notch, one for cutting/ me!ium si$e! notch, an! another for cutting a fancy notch. #t may be operate! simply an! "uickly accor!ing to !irections that accompany it. -3. The pinking scissors are of a specially constructe! type ha'ing serrate! e!ges. The a!'antage of them is that they will cut an! finish the seam e!ge in one operation. ,o they not only pro!uce ar attracti'e finish but they sa'e consi!erable time as well.

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-4. Nature of Shrin#ing.Because of the se'ere pressing that is so important in tailoring, the materials use! for tailore! garments, when they are of wool, must usually be prepare! to take this treatment so that when, later on, water is use! as an ai! in pressing the fabric, there will be no blistering, spotting, or shrinking after the pressing has been !one. The preparation, which generally consists of a !ampening an! !rying process, is known as shrinking. -9. Equipment for Shrin#ing.Two shrinking cloths, each at least 3inches wi!e an! 5 yar!s long, are nee!e! for one metho! of shrinking. &nbleache! muslin that has been boile! in a strong soap solution an! then rinse! thoroughly to remo'e all !ressing, is most satisfactory. Dowe'er, partly worn sheets can also be use!. =or another metho!, a roller, which can be purchase! at tailors% supply stores, is nee!e!. .r, a thin boar! with roun!e! e!ges, about 1A inches wi!e an! 3A inches long, makes a goo! substitute. Fo'er either one with muslin, which has been washe!, rinse!, an! !rie!, an! whip the en!s an! e!ges together to make a smooth, flat surface.

3A. Shrin#ing %ethods.The simplest metho! of shrinking material consists of placing it between wet sponge cloths until !ry. =irst, clip the sel'age e!ges of the material to be shrunk, e'ery 1 to 1? inches so that they will shrink e'enly with the rest of the fabric. =or protection, place se'eral thicknesses of newspaper on your cutting table or the floor, an! o'er it sprea! one of your sponge cloths, thoroughly an! e'enly moistene!, smoothing it out carefully so that there will be no wrinkles. ,prea! the material o'er the wet cloth, smoothing it !own too. Then, sprea! the secon! wet cloth o'er the wool, patting it !own carefully o'er its entire length so that it will be close to the material to be shrunken. 0llow to remain without shifting or mo'ing until thoroughly !ry, usually o'er night. #f each step of the work has been properly !one, no pressing will be nee!e!. 31. 0nother metho! uses a roller or boar! an! one sponge cloth. Gampen the sponge cloth, sprea! it out smoothly, sprea! your material, fol!e! !ouble, o'er it, an!, placing the roller or boar! e'enly at one en!, roll o'er it the material an! the sponge cloth, keeping both entirely smooth. 6et stan! for 5 to < hours. Then unroll, remo'e the muslin, an! sprea! the material out to !ry on a table or hang it o'er the top of a !oor that has been co'ere! with se'eral thicknesses of newspapers. #f it shoul! contain any wrinkles, press these out, using a slightly !ampene! press cloth o'er the wrong si!e of the material an! a mo!erately hot iron an! pressing lightly with the warp threa!s to a'oi! stretching. 3-. ,till another metho!, often use! for materials with a glossy surface like broa!cloth, consists merely of !ampening an! pressing them. Place the material right si!e !own on an ironing boar!, lay a well !ampene! press cloth o'er it, an! run a hot iron o'er the muslin se'eral times. 7emo'e the muslin an! press the material !ry. 33. Wool %aterials Not Requiring Sponging.Many mo!ern makers of wool fabrics take care of their sponging !uring the manufacturing process. Therefore, when you purchase !ress material, coatings, or suitings of wool, fin! out whether this precaution has been taken. 0 tag which states that the material has been sponge! or shrunk, usually accompanies it. ,hrinking of 'ery crepy wool fabrics shoul! also be a'oi!e!, for the twiste! threa!s that go to make up such wea'es !o not len! themsel'es satisfactorily to the shrinking process. Iery sheer wool fabrics, because of their fineness, !o not re"uire !ampening before pressing, so sponging or shrinking will be unnecessary. ,o, before making up materials, shrink only those materials that nee! it.

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35. 0 knowle!ge of how materials shoul! be presse! is 'ery important to the person who sews, for, if the work is !one right, pressing shoul! always follow e'ery step in the construction of all tailore! garments, an! especially in the case of woolen ones. Pressing not only impro'es the fit of the finishe! garments, but a!!s much to their finishe! effect. 0n!, if pains are taken in the pressing of the seams, corners, an! cur'es !uring the making, 'ery little pressing will be nee!e! when the garment is complete!. #n pressing woolen materials, the iron shoul! be hot, but not sufficiently hot to scorch. 0n! it shoul! be remembere! that wool scorches more rea!ily than cotton. 9'en though the press cloth is always between the material an! the iron, the har! pressing that is usually necessary causes the heat to penetrate rea!ily to the material. 3;. To press woolen material, lay it smooth on the ironing boar!, first brushing the nap, if there is one, straight with a whisk broom. Beat any e(tra hea'y seam or thickness with the back of a tailor%s brush. Then lay a !ampene! press cloth o'er the part to be presse!, an! run the hot iron o'er it, using a rotary motion until it is thoroughly presse!. )e'er permit the iron to rest in one place 'ery long at a time as this will cause iron prints to form on the material. 0lso, ne'er push or !rag the iron o'er the material. 7ather, lift it carefully from one part to another so as to pre'ent wrinkling of the material or pulling it or the garment out of shape. +hen you !esire to change the press cloth, be sure to place the iron on a hol!er stan! so that you may ha'e both of your han!s to make the change an! there will be no !anger of burning the material. 3<. Remo!ing Shine.,ometimes, in the construction of woolen garments, certain parts, especially seams an! o'erlapping e!ges, become shiny or glossy from improper pressing. 0lso, as is well known, a woolen material that consists of har! or firmly twiste! threa!s is likely to become glossy from har! wear. To remo'e the shine, first place o'er it a press cloth that is slightly !amper than one nee!e! for or!inary pressing. Then hol! a hot iron 'ery close to the press cloth, but not on it, keeping the iron in one position long enough to allow the steam an opportunity to penetrate the fabric. Then lift the press cloth an! brush the fabric briskly to roughen its surface a trifle in or!er to take away the shine. 7epeat this process until e'ery trace of the shine is remo'e!. Then, !ry the steame! material thoroughly, hol!ing the iron close enough to the press cloth so that the fabric will appear to ha'e been carefully presse!, although the iron has not touche! it.

1933Principles of Tailoring
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken

Tailored Seams and $lackets

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1. Tailored seams, many kin!s of which are use! in tailore! costumes, re"uire generous seam allowance an! careful basting, stitching, an! pressing. Their !e'elopment is not !ifficult, howe'er, an! if you take the time to carry out each !etail, you will un!oubte!ly obtain 'ery gratifying results. -. Seam &llo'ance.Patterns use! by tailors are usually of a type that ha'e no seam allowance, a 1 inch seam being pro'i!e! when cutting, because of the type of seams use! in tailoring work. Be gui!e! by this, therefore, an! e'en when using a pattern ha'ing the regulation 3C4 inch seam allowance, make pro'ision for the e(tra seam wi!th necessary. ,eam lines are always marke! by tracing, chalk, basting, or mark stitches. 3. %ar#(Stitching.Too much emphasis cannot be lai! on the 'alue of mark stitching along the seam lines that are in!icate! by the tracing, chalk marks, or basting applie! with the pattern in position on the material, as this stitching will mark both si!es of the garment e(actly alike an! show accurate positions for pockets or trimming features that are to be the same on both si!es of the garment. The metho! of making mark stitches is shown in =ig. 1. Take a short stitch through the two thicknesses of material, an! o'er this take a back stitch of the same length, as at a, lea'ing a goo! si$e! loop, as shown. ,kip @ inch an! repeat. 0fter basting the entire length of the seam in this way, !raw the two thicknesses of material apart an! cut the threa!s between them, as at b an! c. Then short threa!s will be left in each piece to mark the pattern line accurately an! the two pieces will be marke! e(actly alike. #t may seem to some persons that mark stitching takes too much time/ but it is the only way in which to make sure of a clean, e(act line for basting or stitching in woolen materials, an! the personal satisfaction !eri'e! in putting together a garment that has been carefully mark stitche! more than repays for the time consume!.

5. Basting.Before basting the seams, to pre'ent stretching one e!ge an! thus making it longer than the other, pin the e!ges together at fre"uent inter'als, inserting the pins perpen!icularly to the seam line so that they will not cause annoyance while the basting is being !one. Then baste with short stitches, being careful not to stretch the seam. ;. Stitching.=or stitching woolen, use silk or merceri$e! cotton threa! that is a tone !arker than the fabric. ,ome of the e(tremely !ark sha!es, particularly the !arkest blue, may satisfactorily be stitche! with black threa!/ as a rule, howe'er, threa! can be matche! to fabric with little !ifficulty. #n any e'ent, in selecting threa!, consi!er the fact that it will work up a little lighter than it appears on the spool. The proper way in which to secure a perfect match is to lay a single threa! across the material in goo! !aylight or un!er one of the lamps pro'i!e! by some shops. 0nother goo! point to remember in connection with threa! use! for tailore! seams is that the manufacturer numbers the colors on the spools/ therefore, if you nee! to procure more threa! of e(actly the same color, note the number on the spool you ha'e emptie! an! be sure to purchase the same one. <. Before starting to stitch, test the machine stitching on a scrap of material like that use! for the garment in or!er to make sure that the tension, the length of the stitch, an! the si$e of the nee!le are correct. Iery fine stitching is not suitable for tailore! garments, as it !raws the material !own an! mars the smooth surface. Iery long stitches, too, shoul! be a'oi!e!, but they are permissible when the stitching is inten!e! for !ecorati'e purposes, this, as a rule, re"uiring hea'ier silk than woul! otherwise be use!. #n stitching, stri'e always for e(treme accuracy. The marke! seam line will ser'e as a gui!e when you are applying the first stitching on the wrong si!e, this stitching being re"uire! for most seams/ but when stitching on the right si!e, use a sewing machine gauge or "uilter or mark the line you wish to follow, unless your eye is sufficiently well traine! to gauge spaces properly. 0ttention must be gi'en to the a!*ustment of the gauge or "uilter. Be gui!e! by your sewing machine instruction book when placing either attachment in position, being careful to a!*ust the "uilter *ust high enough to permit the material to pass freely un!er it. .n some sewing machines, you will fin! it impossible to a!*ust the gauge or the "uilter on the left han! si!e of the presser foot, an!, in some cases, if you use the "uilter as a gauge, you will ha'e to turn it backwar!s. #n such instances, e(treme care must be taken to follow e(actly along the e!ge that is to be stitche!.

3. Pressing.Pressing, too, is of !eci!e! importance. #n making tailore! seams, press each stage of the work as you a!'ance, always pressing lengthwise of the seam an! making it as flat as possible. 0lso, press the finishe! seams. 0s a general rule, the pressing shoul! be !one entirely on the wrong si!e of the material.

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4. Plain Seam.The plain seam is use! e'en more e(tensi'ely in woolen materials than it is in wash fabrics. Many !istincti'e !resses are assemble! by means of plain seams, not a stitch showing anywhere on the outsi!e of the garment. +hen such is the case, the responsibility of the seams is 'ery great, for it is through the perfection of their making an! pressing that they take their place inconspicuously in a tailore! garment. To make a plain seam, place the right si!es of the material together so that one mark stitche! seam line is !irectly o'er the other/ then baste along the mark stitche! line an!, after the fitting of the garment, stitch on the baste! line. #n or!er to finish such a seam in woolen material, open it out, as shown in =ig. -, an! then press well on the wrong si!e with a mo!erately hot iron, or, if the material is not hea'y, you may turn the seam e!ges together to one si!e if you wish. #n some cases, it is not necessary to use any moisture in or!er to press the seam open satisfactorily, but if you fin! it !ifficult to make the seam e!ges lie flat without first !ampening them, run a slightly moistene! sponge or sponge cloth along the opene! seam an! then press it. The use of consi!erable moisture in the pressing of seams takes from the softness of finish that is generally !esirable in women%s garments. 9. #nstea! of pressing seams in 'el'et or in woolen fabrics ha'ing a nap that is not presse! flat, steam them open by running them o'er the e!ge of an in'erte! hot iron that has been co'ere! with a !amp cloth, as shown in =ig. 3. The 'el'et presser !escribe! in 0rt. 14, Fhapter #, is, of course, satisfactory, too. 1A. =inish the e!ges of a plain seam by notching, pinking, o'ercasting, or bin!ing them, accor!ing to the nature of the fabric, notching or pinking closely wo'en fabrics, such as flannel an! broa!cloth, bin!ing those that fray rea!ily, an! o'ercasting those that !o not re"uire bin!ing an! yet nee! a more lasting finish than notching or pinking woul! pro'i!e.

11. Single(Stitch Seam.The single stitch seam, illustrate! in =ig. 5, makes an attracti'e finish for a plain seam. To make this seam, first carefully press an! baste both e!ges back from the stitche! line of the plain seam/ then stitch accurately on both si!es the !istance from the seam line you !esire. The presser foot of the sewing machine ser'es as a goo! gui!e in !oing such work. #t is well first to stitch along the right si!e of the seam, keeping the e!ge of the presser foot in line with the plain seam, an! then, when this si!e is stitche!, to repeat the operation on the other si!e of the seam line. 1-. )ou*le(Stitch Seam.To make the !ouble stitch seam. which is illustrate! in =ig. ;, baste as for a single stitch seam/ then baste back 3C4 inch or more on each si!e of the first basting. 0!! stitching on both si!es of the plain seam as close to it as possible, making a single stitch seam/ an! then stitch back 3C4 inch or more on each si!e of the first stitching, as shown in the illustration. 13. Cord Seam.Make the cor! seam, =ig. <, as followsE Baste a plain seam, but !o not stitch it, as the outsi!e stitching is all that is necessary/ then, instea! of pressing the seam open, turn seam e!ges to one si!e an! baste them. )e(t, with the presser foot of the machine as a gui!e, stitch 1C4 to > inch from the seam e!ge through the three thicknesses. +hen the basting is remo'e!, the effect is similar to that of a cor!e! seam. #nstea! of gi'ing the cor! seam a final pressing as suggeste! for tailore! seams in general, press merely along the row of stitching, taking care not to let the iron e(ten! o'er the outer e!ge, or cor!e! effect, for a flat pressing woul! make the seam appear as a tuck rather than a cor!. 15. Welt Seam.The welt seam, which is shown in =ig. 3, shoul! be ma!e as followsE =irst, baste an! stitch as in making a plain seam/ then cut away one seam e!ge to within > inch of the stitching, as shown at a, =ig. 4. )e(t, bin!, notch, or o'ercast the wi!e seam allowance, an! turn both back against the fabric of the garment. +ith the right si!e of the material up, as in =ig. 3, press the material away carefully from the seam with the fingers so that it will not o'erlap in any place. )e(t, baste along the seam e!ge an! then back ? inch, or almost the wi!th of the stitching !esire!. =inally, stitch the

!esire! wi!th, usually 3C4 or ? inch from the seam, using a sewing machine gauge or "uilter for this purpose, if you wish a gui!e to insure e'en spacing. 1;. )ou*le(Stitched Welt.To make the !ouble stitche! welt, an e(ample of which is shown in =ig. 9, follow all the instructions for making a welt seam, an! in a!!ition apply a secon! row of stitching on the seam turn, as is clearly shown at a. 1<. tuck seam, or shown in =ig. followsE =irst seam, but !o turn both Tuc# Seam.The open welt, as 1A, is ma!e as baste as a plain not stitch. Then seam e!ges to one

si!e an! baste them as in making the cor! seam. Then, from the right si!e, a!! another row of basting the !esire! tuck wi!th from the seam e!ge, as shown in =ig. 11. Place a row of stitching the !esire! !istance, usually > to 1 inch from the seam e!ge/ then remo'e the basting an! mark stitches, an! the seam will appear as a tuck, as in =ig. 1A. 13. Slot Seam.The slot seam, which is illustrate! in =ig. 1-, re"uires an allowance of @ to 1 inch for each seam e!ge. Make the seam as followsE baste as for a plain seam, with short, e'en basting stitches, an! press the seam open. Then cut a strip lengthwise of the material, making it a little longer than the seam an! ? inch wi!er than the presse! open seam measures from one e!ge to the other, as shown in =ig. 13. Place the right si!e of the strip to the wrong si!e of the garment, pin the center of the strip !irectly un!er the seam, as at a. Take care that the strip is ease! a trifle, as it shoul! not be stretche! in the least. Baste from the right si!e, with !iagonal basting, as shown at b, hol!ing the seam firmly with the left han! an! thus a'oi!ing any possibility of stretching the strip or the seam. )e(t, baste an! stitch 3C4 to @ inch from the seam on each si!e. +hen the bastings are remo'e!, the seam will ha'e the appearance of two tuck seams meeting. #f you wish to make the slot seam with inside stitching, as shown in =ig. 1-, lift the insi!e e!ges of the slot seam, or tucks, an! stitch as close to the e!ge as possible, but !o not stitch through the un!erneath strip. 14. +!erlapped Seam.0 metho! of *oining a seam of irregular shape is shown in =ig. 15. To make the o'erlappe!

seam, first !etermine which e!ge is to be on top, turn it in a seam%s wi!th, an! baste, as at a. 0t outwar! turning points, fol! the turn o'er neatly, as at b, while at inwar! turning ones, slash the seam allowance, as at c. Flip any cur'e! e!ges. 6ap the two e!ges, pin at right angles to the seam, as at d, baste, as at e, an! then stitch close to the e!ge of the turn, as at f. 19. ,ap Seam.The lap seam, illustrate! in =ig. 1;, is use! only on hea'y, firmly wo'en materials that !o not fray. 0n allowance of 3C4 to ;C4 inch is necessary for this seam. To make the seam, lap the e!ges, seam lines coinci!ing, but !o not turn the outsi!e e!ges un!er/ baste an! stitch the outsi!e e!ges, making the rows of stitching absolutely parallel an! stitching as close to the e!ges as possible, as shown at a an! b. Go not use sel'age e!ges. -A. Strap Seam.The strap seam, an e(ample of which is shown in =ig. 1<, is simply a plain seam with a goo! seam allowance, o'er which, after the seam has been presse! open, is place! a bias strap of the same or some contrasting material. The proce!ure in making this seam is as followsE =or the strap, cut a bias piece of the material twice the wi!th that the finishe! strap is to be/ catch the e!ges together with a !iagonal basting stitch, as in =ig. 13, taking care that the basting !oes not show on the right si!e an! that the e!ges !o not o'erlap an! cause a ri!ge after the seam is presse!/ an! then press the strap, being 'ery careful not to twist it in the least. )e(t, place the strap !irectly o'er the seam on the right si!e, an! baste it in position with !iagonal basting, as shown. =inally, baste the outsi!e e!ges !own an! stitch on each e!ge of the strap, so that it will appear, when finishe!, as in =ig. 1<. ,ometimes, on garments where machine stitching is not !esirable, the e!ges of the strap are slip stitche! !own or secure! with a !ecorati'e stitch. -1. -se of Tailored Seams.Hnowle!ge of sewing or tailoring processes !oes not attain its true meaning until it has been put to use. #t is essential, therefore, when making up skirts, suits, an! coats, or e'en in some cases !resses, that the proper proce!ure as regar!s seams be followe!. The plain seam an! the o'erlappe! seam are preferre! *oinings in the ma*ority of cases. ,till, if the true tailore! feeling is best e(presse! by seams of other types, they shoul! be use!. =or instance, the single stitch seam may properly be selecte! for the lengthwise seams of a coat, the cor! seam for the same purpose in both coats an! suits, the welt seam, the !ouble stitche! welt, an! the lap seam for top coats, o'ercoats, an! outerwear for chil!ren. The lap

seam is especially 'aluable when *oining two sections of a hea'y wea'e that will not fray, such as !ouble face! o'ercoatings, which re"uire no lining. 0lways, therefore, when working with woolen fabrics, look at the work from the tailoring point of 'iew an! choose your seam finish *ust as carefully as you woul! select your trimming, so that the finishe! work may ha'e a professional look.

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--. Tailored plac#ets, or openings in skirts that permit them to be slippe! o'er the hea! with ease, are not unlike wash plackets, yet because of the materials use! in the construction of tailore! skirts, the metho!s of making them !iffer an! they !eman! greater care. Tailore! plackets re"uire more basting an! pressing than !o wash plackets/ in fact, e(treme care must be taken with any tailore! placket so as not to stretch either of its si!es, for the woolen materials use! in tailore! skirts are almost ungo'ernable when they are once stretche!. 0lso, as the facing silk often use! in the construction of tailore! plackets !iffers in weight an! te(ture from the skirt material, it, too, must be carefully han!le!, so that it will not appear !rawn or too full in any place. Dowe'er, to make a placket that fastens up so perfectly that the skirt opening !oes not attract un!ue attention !oubly repays any one for the time an! effort that must be e(pen!e! in its construction. -3. Essentials of Plac#et %a#ing.To be able to make strictly tailore! skirts successfully, it is imperati'e that these tailore! plackets be thoroughly un!erstoo! an! mastere!. 0 goo! plan, therefore, is to procure pieces of woolen material of suitable si$e an! to make the plackets in the or!er in which they are !escribe!/ then, when it is !esire! to make a tailore! skirt, the finishing of the placket will not seem !ifficult. 0s in the making of tailore! seams, the importance of accurately mark stitche! seam lines, careful basting, an! fre"uent pressing in the !e'elopment of tailore! plackets cannot be o'erestimate!. 9ach seam an! each e!ge of any tailore! placket shoul! be carefully baste! an! presse! before any stitching is !one, because woolen materials will slip an! stretch un!er the presser foot of the sewing machine unless they are carefully hel! in place with basting. 9specially is basting necessary in the application of the facing pieces. -5. .acing of Plac#ets.To finish most tailore! plackets properly, lengthwise facing strips of flat crepe, satin, taffeta, or sateen are nee!e!, an!, no matter which material is use!, it is generally referre! to as facing silk. #f the

skirt is to be a 'ery fine one, a goo!, firm "uality of flat crepe or a firmly wo'en satin may be use! as a finish. =or the ma*ority of woolen skirts, silk crepe of goo! "uality is use!, an! for 'ery hea'y skirts sateen of close, fine wea'e is !esirable. #n the selection of a facing, howe'er, it is of the utmost importance to choose material that is in keeping with the material an! the style of the skirt an! that will wear e"ually as well as the skirt material. #t is 'ery unsatisfactory to use a facing material that !oes not correspon! with the skirt material or that will wear out before the garment !oes. 0lso, as the facing of the placket must, in many instances, turn back o'er the rings of the hooks an! come well up un!er the prongs, the facing material must of necessity be thin enough not to interfere in the hooking of the skirt.

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-;. Nature of Plac#et.0 skirt that is not tight fitting !oes not re"uire especial strength at the placket opening because there is 'ery little strain on the opening. #n such a skirt, the plain(seam plac#et, which is 'ery simply ma!e, as shown in =ig. 14, may be use!. #n a placket of this kin!, there shoul! be no suggestion of its finish on the right si!e. The usual position of such a placket is at the center si!e abo'e a plain seam. Because of the ease in a skirt of this type, the placket opening nee! not be so long as in a plain, fitte! skirt an!, for this reason, the plain seam placket is generally ma!e not more than 4 inches long, this length permitting the skirt to be slippe! off easily. -<. &pplying Plac#et Stay Tapes.The seam lines that were mark stitche! in the cutting of the skirt ate essential in the making of the placket, for they ser'e as a gui!e for the placing of the tapes that are use! as a stay for the placket e!ges an! as a foun!ation for the fasteners. 0fter stitching the si!e seam of the skirt, baste a piece of tape ? inch or so longer than the opening left for the placket, on the wrong si!e of the skirt, as at a, =ig. 19, so that one e!ge of the tape is in line with the mark stitching that in!icates the seam line on one si!e of the placket. Then stitch the tape through the center, thus making a row of stitching show on the opposite si!e of the material, as at b, a short !istance from the seam line. Baste an! stitch a similar strip along the other si!e of the placket, also, as at c, making sure that the e!ge of the tape is e(actly along the mark stitche!

seam line. Then turn un!er the front, or upper, portion of the placket along the mark stitche! line an! baste an! press it flat. -3. .inishing the Seam Edges.#n most cases, the seam e!ges below the placket may be turne! an! presse! together towar! the front skirt portion, but if a presse! open seam is essential, clip the seam allowance on the back or un!er placket e!ge straight across at the lower en! of the placket, in or!er to permit this seam e!ge to lie perfectly flat. To finish the raw seam e!ges, o'ercast them or, if the material is of a kin! that frays rea!ily, bin! the e!ges with a light weight silk bin!ing, e(ten!ing the o'ercasting or bin!ing along the full length of the seam, inclu!ing the placket e!ges, an! across the slash in the seam e!ge if one was ma!e at the lower en! of the placket. -4. &pplying the Snap .asteners.Three or four snap fasteners are sufficient for a placket of this kin!. #n applying them, sew them !irectly o'er the lines of stitching that hol! the tapes in position, as shown in =ig. 14, an! take the stitches through the tape as well as the material, so as to make them 'ery secure. +hen sewing the snaps along the upper placket e!ge, howe'er, be 'ery careful not to catch the stitches through to the right si!e/ take them through merely the turne! un!er placket e!ge an! the tape, so that there may not be e'en a suggestion of the stitches on the outsi!e of the skirt. #n sewing snap fasteners on a placket, remember to sew the part containing the pro*ection to the top of the placket. Begin at the bottom, placing the first one about 1 inch from the en! of the placket an! the others - inches apart. ,ew the two parts of the fasteners !irectly opposite each other to pro!uce a flat, smooth effect. -9. Securing the Turned(-nder Portion.#n or!er to hol! the turne! un!er upper portion of the placket in position when the skirt is being worn, it shoul! be secure! with slip stitching. #n !oing the slip stitching, fol! back about > inch of the turne! un!er portion, as shown in =ig. 14, an! take the stitches, as at a, 'ery close together, catching only a threa! or two of the material in the turne! e!ge as well as in the material un!erneath so as to a'oi! ha'ing these stitches show on the right si!e of the skirt. 0lso, !o not !raw the stitches up tight/ rather, permit sufficient ease in them so that the e!ge that was fol!e! back to facilitate the slip stitching +ill fall back o'er these stitches an! lie perfectly fiat.

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3A. The 'elt(seam plac#et is shown in =ig. -A. This style of placket is use! in fitte!, gore! skirts, usually at the left center si!e seam, or at the left si!e of, a front or back panel. 0lso, it may be employe! on a skirt finishe! with plain presse! open seams as well as on one ha'ing seam e!ges turne! to one si!e an! finishe! with outsi!e stitching. The placket here illustrate! is at the left si!e of a two piece skirt that has its waist line supporte! by an insi!e belt. 31. &pplying the .acings.=or the welt seam placket, cut two strips of facing silk, making each about #f inches wi!e an! a trifle longer than the placket opening. 0fter finishing the skirt seam, clip across the un!erneath seam e!ge at the lower en! of the placket, as shown at a, =ig. -1. This clipping must be !one on the one seam e!ge to permit it to e(ten! un!er the other an! to make the seam lie perfectly flat when the placket is lappe! into position. #f a welt seam is use! for the skirt, then it will not be necessary to clip the seam at the bottom of the placket, because the e!ges of the seam will then come o'er each other in the forming of the welt an! will not ha'e to be presse! open. )e(t, place a strip of facing silk o'er the gore that is to form the un!er part of the placket, with their right si!es together an! e!ges e'en, an! baste > inch from the e!ge. Turn it to the wrong si!e like a bin!ing, fol! the raw e!ge of the strip o'er to meet the raw seam e!ge of the placket, as shown, an! crease an! baste the turne! e!ge, as at b. +hen this turne! e!ge is fol!e! back in position, it will be close to the mark stitche! line at c. +hen this strip is baste! in position, procee! with the other facing strip. 6ay it so that its right si!e is to the wrong si!e of the skirt portion, as at d, an! the e!ge of the facing is e'en with the mark stitche! seam line. Then baste this facing strip in position, as at e, an! baste again, as at f, so as to hol! the facing silk firmly. 3-. Stitching the Plac#et. +ith the right si!e of the un!erlapping portion uppermost, stitch about > inch from the e!ge, keeping the stitching on the facing silk, as shown in =ig. --. This stitching appears as at a on the wrong si!e. Then stitch the upper placket e!ge, stitching from the right si!e > to ? inch from the e!ge, as at a, =ig, -A, an! continuing the line of stitching to the bottom of the placket. #n stitching, hol! the un!erneath portion of the placket away so that it will not be caught in with the stitching/ also, be sure to use a gauge or to mark with basting threa!s the line on which to stitch so that there will be no !anger that the stitching will appear crooke!, for

in a 'ery plain placket of this kin! the workmanship must be as nearly perfect as possible, in or!er that the break between seam an! placket may be imperceptible. +hen you reach a point about > inch from the bottom of the placket, lift the nee!le an! the presser foot an! !raw the material out *ust a trifle in or!er to lea'e a threa! length of about ? inch between the en! of the stitching an! the nee!le. Then, with the placket still un!er the presser foot, turn the un!er placket e!ge, or seam allowance, back un!erneath the upper portion an! a!*ust the material un!er the presser foot in or!er to continue stitching !iagonally to the seam line, as shown in =ig. -A, without causing a break or une'enness in the line of stitching. Before continuing the stitching, howe'er, turn the spool of threa! on the machine so as to win! up the e(tra threa! length that was !rawn out. Then, when the stitching is continue!, no loop of threa! will show on the right si!e, but the e(tra bobbin threa! length will remain an! loop o'er the un!er seam e!ge without puckering it as woul! be the case if the e(tra threa! length ha! not been pro'i!e!. 0fter completing the stitching, pull the threa!s through an! fasten them. This !iagonal row of stitching makes the bottom of the placket secure an! hol!s the upper an! un!erneath portions together. #f you prefer, you may omit the outsi!e machine stitching entirely an! secure the turne! e!ge by catch stitching it through the facing silk to the right si!e of the skirt, making the stitches as tiny as possible so that they will be practically in'isible on the right si!e. 33. .inishing the Plac#et.Before putting on either hooks an! eyes or snap fasteners, press the placket thoroughly so that it will De perfectly smooth an! not appear stretche! or puckere! in any place. #f you use snap fasteners for fastening the placket, as in this case, fol! the free e!ge of the facing silk on the upper e!ge of the placket back o'er the raw e!ge of the skirt seam, turn in the facing e!ge, an! whip it !own !irectly o'er the stitching that is put in from the right si!e. #f you use hooks an! eyes, sew the hooks on first an! then bring the strip o'er, turn in the e!ge, an! hem it !own un!erneath the prongs of the hooks themsel'es. #n a placket of this kin!, always take care to o'ercast the lower e!ges so that the placket will appear neatly finishe!. +hen the placket is stitche! an! presse!, procee! to put on the fasteners, remembering always to begin at the bottom of the placket opening to mark their positions an! to sew them on in the same or!er so as to ha'e any fulness come out at the waist line.

35. &pplying the Belting.Fut the belting - inches longer than the waist measure an! make a @ inch hem at each en! so that the hemme! en!s meet without o'erlapping. ,ew on the two lower hooks an! eyes, lea'ing a space for the upper ones. Place the hooks with the en!s of the prongs *ust insi!e the en! of the belting, an! the eyes with the loops e(ten!ing 1C4 inch beyon! the other en!. To apply the belt, as in =ig. --, so that no stitching appears on the right si!e of the skirt, first hook it aroun! the waist line, put on the skirt, an! fasten the placket. Bring the e!ge of the back part of the placket e'en with the correspon!ing en! of the belt, turn the e!ge of the skirt o'er the belting ? inch, an! pin it securely. Fontinue turning o'er an! pinning the upper e!ge until you reach the other en! of the belt. The placket e(ten!s about 1 inch beyon! this en! of the belting, thus allowing for the o'erlap. 7emo'e the pins one at a time an! reinsert them through the belt an! the turne! o'er e!ge so that the skirt may be lai! flat. Baste the skirt an! belting together 3C4 inch below the top of the belting, trim the e!ge of the skirt close to the basting, an! co'er this e!ge with bias bin!ing. ,titch this on both e!ges, as shown. Turn the belting against the skirt an! secure the bin!ing that e(ten!s beyon! the front en! of the belting to the skirt with back stitches, without allowing them to go through to the right si!e. ,ew on the remaining hook an! eye an! snap. 3;. Welt(Seam Plac#et in Tailored Wash S#irt.The way in which to make a welt seam placket for a tailore! wash skirt is shown in =ig. -3. 0pply the un!er facing for this placket in much the same manner as for a similar placket in woolen material, but, instea! of fol!ing the facing un!er an! lea'ing it loose, stitch it flat, as at a, 1C4 to > inch in from the e!ge of the seam line of the skirt, so that it will not be seen when the placket is hooke! up. ,uch stitching hol!s the facing more securely an! pre'ents it from pulling out in the laun!ering. 0pply the facing to the upper e!ge by first stitching it to the right si!e along the e!ge, then turning it to the wrong si!e an! stitching it flat, as shown. To secure the skirt to the belting, turn un!er the upper e!ge an! whip this turne! e!ge to the e(treme upper e!ge of the belting, or stitch the turne! un!er e!ge to the belting, first turning the skirt portion back in or!er not to make the stitching e'i!ent on the right si!e. #f you wish outsi!e stitching at the top of the skirt, as at b, you may apply this below the upper e!ge a !istance that is the same as the wi!th of the stitching on the welt seam, as at c, or somewhat narrower than this. Jou may

take this stitching merely through the turne! back portion at the upper e!ge of the skirt, as shown, or through the belting, also, the stitching hol!ing the skirt securely to the belting in the laun!ering. 0pply snap fasteners, as shown.

T&FH ,90M P60FH9T

3<. The tuc#(seam plac#et, which is a form of opening much use! in skirts that employ tuck seams, a!apts itself 'ery well to both wash an! woolen materials. #t is generally use! on a straight seam !own the center front or back of a skirt, but it may be employe! on the e!ge of a panel ha'ing a tuck finish or when a tuck finish is use! on a si!e gore. The metho! of making the tuck seam placket !iffers somewhat in wash an! wool materials, stay tapes being use! in wash materials for the fasteners re"uire! on the opening an! silk facing pieces being employe! in woolen materials for this purpose. Both of the metho!s are gi'en here so that you may be prepare! to make the tuck seam placket in any sort of material. 33. Tuc#(Seam Plac#et in Wash %aterial.#n or!er to a'oi! a break in the stitching at the termination of the placket an! still show only a single row of stitching on the right si!e, it is a!'isable to finish both si!es of the placket before forming the tuck. =or the stays that are re"uire! when the placket is use! in wash material, use/ tape or narrow, bias, seam bin!ing ha'ing its e!ges turne!. To apply the stays, stitch a piece of the tape that is a trifle longer than you !esire the placket, o'er the left front of the skirt, as at a, =ig. -5, placing the tape about ? inch from the front e!ge preferably on the wrong si!e of the material an! e(ten!ing it from the waist line. ,titch a similar strip to the right front of the skirt, as at b, applying this in practically the same manner preferably o'er the wrong si!e of the material. The reason for applying the stays before forming the tuck seam is to pre'ent the stitching, as at c, from showing on the right si!e of the skirt when the tuck seam is complete!. 34. )e(t, form the tuck for the center front by fol!ing back the right front of the skirt the wi!th of the tuck plus a generous seam allowance. Baste it the tuck wi!th from the fol! an! stitch the tuck the full skirt length, also pressing it before *oining it to the left front of the skirt. #n applying the stitching, be careful to stitch in a straight line an! to make the stitching an e'en !istance from the e!ge its entire length.

+ith the tuck stitche! its full length, slip the front e!ge of the left front un!erneath the tuck, in or!er to bring the marke! center front line of the left front !irectly un!er the marke! center front line in the tuck, or right front. +ith the center front lines an! the hip lines e(actly matche!, pin an! baste the fronts together, taking the basting stitches *ust a trifle to the right of the tuck stitching, beginning *ust abo'e the lower en! of the stay tapes an! continuing to the lower e!ge of the skirt. This basting shoul! hol! the tuck to the left front, lea'ing the seam allowance of both fronts e(ten!ing together un!erneath. 39. #n or!er to stitch the fronts together, first fol! the right front back o'er the left front, as shown in =ig. -5/ then, with your finger pressing the right front back o'er the stitching that secures the tuck, stitch the seam allowances together, as at d, as close to the fol! as you can, but be 'ery careful not to let this stitching catch the e!ge of the material that is fol!e! back. ,tart the stitching *ust abo'e the lower e!ge of the stay tapes, an! in or!er to make the finish secure an! the tying of threa! en!s unnecessary, stitch from the insi!e of the seam allowance !irectly across to the outsi!e e!ge, an! then back o'er this stitching, as at e. Fontinue the stitching to the skirt e!ge. 5A. #n =ig. -; is shown the wrong si!e of the complete! placket. 0t a, a few of the stitches that secure the tuck are !rawn out to illustrate the closeness of the two rows of stitching, one of which shows only on the wrong si!e, as at b, an! the other on the right si!e, as at c. To make the insi!e belt, hems are stitche! in the en!s of the belting, as at d/ then hooks are secure!, as at e, an! eyes, as at f. The upper part of the skirt is turne! !own as at g, an! the belting applie!, so that it comes slightly below the turne! e!ge, as at h. The raw top e!ge in the lapping portion of the skirt may be co'ere! with a narrow tape, as at i, secure! with fine whipping stitches. 51. Tuc#(Seam Plac#et in Wool %aterial.#n making a tuck seam placket in wool material, as shown in =ig. -<, plan to finish both e!ges of the placket separately, as in the case of wash materials, before stitching the seam. The first step in the making of this placket is to prepare an! apply the stay pieces. 5-. 0s a stay piece for the tuck, or upper, portion of the placket, cut a straight strip of facing silk about ? inch longer than you wish the placket opening an! @ inch wi!er than the !istance from the raw e!ge to the baste! or marke! line in!icating where

the tuck shoul! be turne!. Then, as a gui!e for placing the stay piece for the tuck e!ge of the placket, turn back the tuck allowance on the skirt an! press it in or!er to crease the e!ge. 0fter creasing, open out the tuck, when the crease will appear on the wrong si!e, as at a, =ig. -3. 0pply the stay piece by first placing it o'er the wrong si!e of the skirt portion so that it e(ten!s about 3C4 inch beyon! the crease! line un!erneath, as shown, an! then basting it to the skirt material through the allowance that will be turne! back but as close to the crease! line as possible in or!er to hol! the stay strip close to the tuck e!ge when it is turne!. &se silk threa! that matches the color of the skirt material for this basting an! take e(tremely fine stitches through to the right si!e an! stitches about ? inch long on the facing si!e, as at b. The stay strip is cut wi!e enough to form a bin!ing for the raw e!ge of the tuck allowance, as at c, but before securing this in position, turn the tuck allowance back an! press it again o'er the stay piece. Then, after turning the bin!ing o'er the e!ge an! whipping or stitching it in position, as at a, =ig. -4, stitch the tuck, as at b, its full length before applying it to the other front section of the skirt, as !irecte! in making a tuck seam placket in wash material. 53. =or staying the un!er placket e!ge, cut a straight strip of facing silk about ? inch longer than you !esire the opening an! ? inch wi!er than the !istance from the raw e!ge to where the tuck, or upper placket portion, will lap, as in!icate! in =ig. -3 by a line of basting, which was applie! !irectly after the cutting of the skirt. 0pply this by first turning un!er one lengthwise e!ge a scant > inch an! basting it, as at d, =ig. -3, to the wrong si!e of the skirt about 1C4 inch insi!e of the baste! line on the skirt, as at e, which in!icates the point to which the tuck e!ge is to o'erlap. +hen you reach the lower en! of the strip, turn this un!er, as at f, to pro!uce a neat finish/ then turn the strip o'er to the right si!e of the material to pro'i!e a finish for the raw e!ge/ turn an! baste this in position, as at g, =ig -3, an! stitch it, as at c, =ig. -4. ,titch the other e!ge of the strip, also, as at d an! whip or slip stitch the turn at the lower en! of the facing strip, as at e, before *oining it to the tuck e!ge of the placket. #f the material has a smooth, fine finish that will be likely to show press marks, it is a!'isable not to turn the en! of the facing strip, as at f, =ig. -3, but simply to o'ercast this raw e!ge. 55. +ith both portions of the placket finishe!, place the tuck e!ge o'er the other e!ge of the skirt so that it is *ust e'en with the baste! line ma!e on the

un!er portion, an! baste these e!ges together. Then turn the right, or upper, front o'er on the left front an! stitch the seam e!ges together, as at f, =ig. -4, from the lower en! of the placket opening to the lower e!ge of the skirt, stitching as close to the first row of stitching as possible in the same manner as pre'iously !irecte! for stitching the tuck seam in a wash skirt or, for a somewhat softer finish, *oin along the seam lines by han!, using running stitches with an occasional backstitch. Koining the e!ges in woolen materials by han! is, in a way, somewhat easier than stitching them together, for when the seam is being machine stitche!, e(treme care is re"uire! to pre'ent the turne! back portion from slipping un!er the nee!le an! being caught by the stitching. #n securing the two sections together, either by han! or by machine, take a !ouble row of stitches across the seam allowance at the lower en! of the placket, as at g, to ser'e as a stay an! pre'ent the stitching from pulling out. 0pply the snap fasteners, as shown in =ig. -<, *ust o'er the stitching of the tuck, taking care to catch the stitches through the stay pieces un!erneath but not through to the right si!e.

D0B#T B0FH P60FH9T

5;. The ha*it(*ac# plac#et, shown in =ig. -9, !eri'es its name from its original use as a finish for the opening in the plain back of a woman%s ri!ing skirt, or habit. Besi!es being use! for ri!ing habits in seasons when such a finish is fa'ore!, it may pro'i!e the center back opening of a fitte! separate or suit skirt. 0s plackets ma!e on skirts that fit snugly at the waist an! hips re"uire secure fastening, hooks an! eyes are use! instea! of snap fasteners an! are place! close together to hol! the e!ges securely an! neatly. 5<. =or accurate !e'elopment of the habit back placket, a mark stitche! seam line, as at a, =ig. 3A, is essential. 0fter !etermining the placket length, as a rule, 4 to 11 inches measure! from the waist line, stitch an! finish the skirt seam from the lower en! of the placket to the bottom of the skirt. Then, prepare to finish the placket. 53. Preparing the .ly and &pplying the .acings.0 fl%, or e&tension, piece is re"uire! for the un!erneath portion of this placket. =or this, cut a lengthwise strip of the skirt fabric about - ? inches wi!e an! 1 ? inches longer than the placket opening, an! mark the center of the piece with basting threa!, as shown at b. 0lso, cut a piece of facing 3C4 inch larger on all si!es than the strip of material *ust

prepare! for the fly an! another piece of facing the same length as the first one an! about - inches wi!e. ,lip this - inch strip un!er the right han! si!e of the placket opening with one en! e(ten!ing a trifle abo'e the material an! one e!ge well o'er the mark stitche! line, as at c/ baste it in this position an! then turn the placket e!ge o'er on the mark stitche! line an! baste, so as to a'oi! stretching the placket e!ge or facing in any place. )e(t, turn the left han! si!e of the placket on the mark stitche! line, as at d, an! baste it in position. To make the fly, place the wrong si!es of the strip of material an! the facing together/ turn the facing o'er on each si!e of the strip an! baste it in position, turning un!er the e!ges for a neat finish. +ith this !one, turn the facing silk up o'er the lower en! of the strip the same as on the si!es an! baste it !own, taking care to finish the corners neatly an! as flat as possible. Then, as shown at e an! f, stitch aroun! the strip so as to hol! the facing in position. 54. Stitching the Plac#et.)e(t, a!*ust the gauge on the sewing machine so that it will gi'e a 'ery accurate stitche! line the same !istance from the e!ge of the placket opening as the remaining seams of the skirt are stitche! from the e!ge. #f no ornamental stitching is to be a!!e! to the seams on the right si!e of the skirt, then the stitching shoul! be a generous > to ? inch from the e!ge. 6ight weight materials re"uire the narrow stitching, while hea'y weight materials appear to better a!'antage if the stitching is place! in 3C4 to ? inch from the e!ge, the gauge being a!*uste! to gi'e *ust the wi!th that is !esire!. )e(t, carefully press the placket e!ges, as well as the fly piece, so that they will be absolutely free from wrinkles. ,titch the right si!e of the placket first, stitching from the waist line !own to within 3C4 inch, or so, of the en! of the opening, as shown in =ig. 3A. 0t the en! of the stitching, pull the threa! through to the wrong si!e an! fasten it. 0lso, turn the free e!ge of the facing back to within a scant > inch of the e!ge of the placket, as at a# =ig. 31, an! press it in position, but !o not whip it !own. Pressing is !one at this time merely to insure a neat finish at the bottom of the placket/ that is, so that the en! of the facing will be hel! !own between the skirt an! the fly portion. 6ater on, when the hooks are in position, the free e!ge of this facing piece is whippe! !own un!er the prongs of the hooks, as at a, =ig. -9, thus co'ering the rings an! stems of the hooks an! gi'ing a neat finish. This also pre'ents wear on the threa!s that hol! the hooks. 59. &pplying the .ly.)e(t, place the fly piece, which has been finishe! on two si!es an! one en!, so that the cloth si!e is up an! its center is e(actly

un!erneath the center of the placket opening, as shown in =ig. 3A. Bring the placket e!ges together !irectly o'er the basting that marks the center of the fly. Then pin carefully from the bottom of the placket up to the waist line, an!, after pinning, baste both e!ges to the fly portion. #t may not seem necessary to baste the right han! si!e, since it is stitche!, but it is well worth while. #f such basting is carefully !one, it will insure a perfectly smooth placket, especially at the bottom, where, unless this precaution is taken, the material might appear !rawn when the stitching is a!!e! to the left si!e of the placket. +hen the fly is baste! in position, mark !iagonal lines that meet in an angle at the en! of the placket to ser'e as a gui!e in the stitching, using tailor%s chalk or basting threa! for marking. ,titch the left si!e of the placket ne(t, beginning at the waist line an! stitching !own. =or this work, a!*ust the sewing machine gauge or "uilter the same wi!th as it was a!*uste! for the first stitching, so that the stitching will be the same on both si!es of the placket opening. +hen you reach the bottom of the placket, turn an! stitch !own on the chalk line to the center of the placket, as at b, =ig. -9/ then turn the work an! stitch up to the termination of the stitching that was put in on the right han! si!e of the placket, as at c. #n this way, the stitching line will appear unbroken on the right si!e an!, as shown in =ig. 3-, on the wrong si!e. 0s before, pull the machine threa!s through to the wrong si!e an! fasten. ;A. )e(t, remo'e the bastings an! press the placket carefully. This is the most opportune time for pressing the placket, because it cannot be presse! well after the hooks an! eyes are in position. +ith the e(ception of the ban!, the placket shoul! now appear on the wrong si!e as in =ig. 3-. ;1. "oo#s and Eyes.Mark for the hooks an! eyes ne(t, taking care not to stretch the e!ge of the placket. Place the first hook an! eye so that it will come about @ inch from the en!. 0 hook an! an eye are place! close to the lower en! of the placket to pre'ent it from being torn out, the usual practice being to hook them an! then press them 'ery firmly, so that they will not come unhooke!. The last hook an! eye may come up rather close to the ban!, but this is a 'ery goo! feature, for, if the skirt is incline! to be a little tight aroun! the waist an! the space between the hook an! eye an! the e!ge of the ban! is large, the placket might gape below the ban!. 0s a rule, a )o. - hump hook with a straight eye is satisfactory for a tailore! placket of this kin!. #f the material is 'ery light in weight, a )o. A hook an! eye may be use!/ but as this si$e is a little te!ious to fasten, the )o. 1 si$e is preferable.

;-. &pplying the "oo#s and Eyes.0pply the hooks to the right han! si!e first, placing them so that the prong of each hook is 1C4 inch from the e!ge of the placket an! !irectly un!er the chalk mark an! securing them with o'er an! o'er stitches. #t is not necessary to buttonhole them, as they will be co'ere! with the facing/ yet, the buttonhole stitch gi'es strength, an! if you can buttonhole rapi!ly it is well to use this stitch. #n fastening the hooks in place, be sure to sew o'er the rings an! un!erneath the prong of each hook, making them as secure as possible, so that none of them will pull out of position by the continuous fastening an! unfastening to which they will be sub*ecte! in putting on an! remo'ing the skirt on which they are use!. +hen all the hooks are in position, slip the e!ge of the facing un!erneath the prongs of the hooks an! fell it !own neatly, as pre'iously mentione!. )e(t, sew the eyes on with the buttonhole stitch, placing the straight eyes !irectly opposite each mark on the right han! si!e of the placket opening an! straight with the e!ge of the placket, as shown at d, =ig. -9. =or this work, use buttonhole twist that is as near the color of the material as possible. #f the material is 'ery !ark, black buttonhole twist is usually satisfactory. #n sewing the eyes on, you will fin! it well to hook up each hook an! eye as the eyes are sewe! in place, so that there will be no !anger of their not hooking e(actly right. The e!ges of the placket shoul! come together in a perfectly straight line, as if they were a continuation of the seam/ they must not appear !rawn or too full at any place. +hen the hooks an! eyes are in position, trim the e!ges of the placket facing e'en with the e!ges of the skirt seam abo'e the waist line, in preparation for applying the skirt to the ban! or belting. ;3. .inishing the Waist ,ine.The manner in which the waist line of a skirt may be finishe! with a narrow strip of lightweight silk or lining material so that another belt may be worn o'er it without causing un!esirable bulk is shown in =ig. 31. Fut the strip for the belt of a length e"ual to the waist measurement plus the !istance the placket e!ges o'erlap an! an allowance for finishing each en!. To apply this strip, first baste it to the wrong si!e of the skirt, turn un!er the en!s, as at b, an! baste *ust below the e!ge of the tape that shows at c. This tape may be put on when the skirt is fitte! an! left in position so as to keep the ban! e(actly the right si$e. +hen the si$e is correct, stitch the one e!ge of the ban! to the skirt, as at d, an! then, after turning the ban! o'er to the right si!e, baste an! stitch it all the way aroun! an! o'erhan! the en!s, as at e. Fomplete the placket an! the waistban! finish by sewing hooks an! eyes in place.

#)I97T9G P60#T P60FH9T

;5. The in!erted(plait plac#et is shown in =ig. 33. 0s its name implies, it is a placket finish use! when the skirt closing is locate! in an in'erte! plait. #t may be place! in any position where the !esign of the skirt calls for a plait of this type, whether it be at the center back, the si!e back, or the si!e front. #n the instructions that follow, it is assume! that the placket is locate! at the center back, but the !irections can be a!apte! rea!ily to any position on the skirt, pro'i!e! an in'erte! plait is there. Though it is similar in appearance to the habit back placket when finishe!, an! also somewhat similar in construction !etails, the in'erte! plait placket re"uires special instruction an! much care in finishing for a goo! effect. The plait below the placket gi'es a certain amount of ease an! fulness an! thus makes this placket more generally becoming than the habit back type. ;;. The allowance for the plait is usually ma!e on the skirt pattern itself. 0s a rule, it is e(ten!e! 3 inches beyon! the center back line at the waist line an! twice this !istance, or < inches, at the bottom. This amount, of course, is allowe! on each of the back gores, so that the plaits will be uniform in si$e on each si!e of the center back seam. #n marking the pattern lines of a skirt that is to ha'e an in'erte! plait, mark stitch both the center back line of the foun!ation skirt an! the pattern line of the plait/ then, when the skirt is baste! together, the pattern lines of the plait become the center back of the skirt an! the e!ges of the plait form the placket e!ges, which meet !irectly o'er the center back seam. ;<. Preparing for %a#ing the Plac#et.To prepare for the in'erte! plait placket, baste an! stitch the center back seam of the skirt, which is the plait e(tension, from the waist line to the bottom of the skirt, an! bin! or o'ercast each e!ge. Then press the seam open, an! on the right si!e of the center back seam, e(actly half way between the seam an! the mark stitche! line, cut the material !own from the waist line at this half way point, making the slash as !eep as the placket itself is to be, usually 11 inches for a skirt that is fitte! closely. =ig. 35 shows where the slash shoul! be ma!e, but as this illustrates the wrong si!e of the skirt, the slash is naturally at the left of the wrong si!e of the seam. ;3. &pplying the .acing Strips.To make the in'erte! plait placket, first cut two lengthwise strips of facing silk, making one of them about - ? inches wi!e an! the other - inches wi!e, an! each strip 1 inch longer than the placket opening. Place the right si!e of the narrower, or - inch, strip to the right si!e of

the cloth on the right han! si!e of the placket with the raw e!ges e'en, an! baste an! stitch it to the e!ge, turning it up at the en! before stitching. Then turn the facing back to the wrong si!e of the placket an! baste it !own, as at a, =ig. 35, lea'ing a scant > inch of the facing showing on the right si!e. Then turn an! baste the e!ge of the facing *ust o'er the line of the mark stitches, as at b, in or!er to gi'e a goo!, firm e!ge o'er which to turn the plait. )e(t, *oin the -? inch piece to the opposite si!e of the placket in a similar manner. Then turn the strip o'er to the wrong si!e so that it *ust meets the raw e!ge of the skirt, an! baste it, as at c/ crease it in the center an! then turn it back on the skirt material an! baste it again on the e!ge, as at d. Turning the facing un!er in this way, thus making it !ouble, pro!uces a strong enough stay to hol! the eyes in position at the lower en! of the opening. Da'ing turne! back the lower en! of the facing before stitching, secure these turne! e!ges to the skirt with hemming stitches. Then stitch the facing strips along the e!ges from the right si!e, as at a an! b, =ig. 3;, an! afterwar!s take a few o'erhan!ing stitches to hol! the e!ges together at the en! of the placket an! pre'ent this from tearing !own. ;4. +ith these e!ges stitche!, press the placket facings from the wrong si!e, so as to ha'e them smooth an! straight. )e(t, if the material is not 'ery firm, baste a lengthwise strip of facing silk or seam bin!ing a trifle longer than the !epth you !esire the outsi!e stitching of the placket an! ? or @ inch wi!e, to the wrong si!e of the skirt, along the mark stitche! line or plait e!ge to the left of the opening. This strip ser'es as a stay for one bias e!ge of the in'erte! plait an! pre'ents it from stretching or sagging !own. The facing strip for the opening ser'es this same purpose in the right plait e!ge. Then turn the plait on the mark stitche! line back o'er the stay strip, turning from the right si!e, an! baste it on this line all the way to the bottom of the skirt. The plait is baste! the full length of the skirt to insure a true line. +hen the e!ges of the plait are baste!, bring them o'er an! pin them in position, taking care to ha'e their e!ges meet e(actly o'er the seam an! to baste 'ery smoothly. #n !oing this basting, place the work on the sewing table, so that the weight of the skirt will not pull the plait out of position. =irst, !etermine the e(act length that the placket is to be an! mark it accor!ingly with tailor%s chalk straight across from one e!ge to the other. Then baste from the termination of the placket to the bottom of the skirt on each e!ge, an! on the left han! si!e from the waist line !own the entire length, basting through all thicknesses but taking care not to catch the stitches through to the front part of the skirt. ;9. Stitching the Plaits.)e(t, prepare to stitch the e!ges of the plaits. #f the skirt is part of a suit, or if the other seams are

stitche! in welt or open welt effect, the stitching on the e!ges of the in'erte! plait shoul! correspon! with the other plaits or seam stitching. 0fter !etermining the !istance that the stitching is to e(ten! from the waist line, mark it as alrea!y e(plaine! for the placket lengthin this case, about two thir!s the length of the placket an! stitch the right han! si!e first, as shown at c, =ig. 3;, stitching from the waist line !own. 0s has been mentione!, for 'ery stout figures it is well not to e(ten! this stitching the full length of the placket, so as to gi'e more free!om o'er the largest part of the hips. =or 'ery slen!er figures, the stitching may e(ten! farther !own on the placket/ but, in any case, it is best to make this stitching a little shorter than the placket, as such stitching gi'es a neater finish. #n terminating the stitching, as at d, you may run it !iagonally upwar! or !ownwar!, as !esire!. +hiche'er plan you follow, mark the turn on both si!es of the plait with tailor%s chalk, so that the stitching on each si!e will correspon!. ,titch through only the e!ge of the plait, as shown, pull the threa!s through on the insi!e of the plait, an! fasten them securely. )e(t, stitch the left si!e of the placket, as at e. This si!e is stitche! in the same manner as the right si!e, e(cept that the plait is stitche! to the skirt itself. <A. &pplying the "oo#s and Eyes.+ith the stitching !one, press the placket 'ery carefully. Then place hooks on the right han! si!e an! eyes to correspon! along the left han! e!ge of the placket, as at g. #n securing these fastenings in place, sew through the center back seam of the skirt/ this will gi'e strength an! pre'ent them from pulling away from the skirt material. 0s you will obser'e on referring to =ig. 3;, the hooks an! eyes at the lower en! of the placket are place! mi!way of the portion use! as the fly. This plan is an e(cellent one, as the fasteners keep the placket in position an! yet permit the plait to be open enough to allow for free!om at the bottom of the placket. Take the stitches to secure these lower hooks an! eyes through the facing pieces as well as through the skirt material. Then, to pre'ent the bottom of the plait from tearing out at its lower e!ge an! also to keep the placket in position, clasp the bottom hook an! the eye, which are !esignate! by h, an! press them 'ery firmly with an iron so that they cannot be unhooke!. <1. .inishing the Waist ,ine.+ith the fastenings applie! to the placket e!ge, finish the waist line in a manner suitable for the style of skirt you are making. The illustrations of the in'erte! plait placket here !iscusse! show a ban! of the skirt material with a lining of facing silk. The ban! is applie! in the same manner as any other ban!, e(cept that the two kin!s of material are use! an! *oine! in a seam at the upper e!ge of the ban!, as shown in =ig. 3;.

,ew the hooks an! eyes on the ban! as in the habit back placket. Then, when the placket is fastene! up an! in position, the wrong si3e will appear as shown in =ig. 3<, an! the right si!e as in =ig. 33.

6.F0T#.) .= P60FH9T .P9)#)8,

<-. ,ome !esigners say that when !esigning a garment they ne'er consi!er the place where a !ress or skirt will be opene!. They get the !esire! style effect an! then plan for an opening afterwar!s, placing it where it will in nowise affect line or trimming. This is a goo! point to remember in the placing of plackets. 0lso, unless an opening is to be ma!e a trimming feature, it shoul! be as inconspicuous as possible, an! as few or as many fasteners use! as the looseness or the tightness of the garment re"uires. ,ometimes, goo! workmen will use but one or two snap fasteners on a placket an! perhaps put *ust a narrow strip of silk as a stay strip un!erneath, o'ercast the e!ges rather than bin! them an! make the entire opening in such a way that you woul! nee! to look carefully to fin! it. 0n! so there are two responsibilities in making openings in garments/ first, to know how to make all kin!s correctly/ then, to know when to use them properly in accor!ance with =ashion%s !eman!s.