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t^ll
RICTI
FLAVoURoFsTocKDEPENDsoNFRESHINGRED|ENTS,THESPEc|F|cPREPA-
RAT|oNoFAFoUNDATIoNFoRFLAVoUR_THERoASTINGoFBoNESAND
THESWEAT|NGoFVEGETABLES,FoLLowEDBYTHELoNG,SLowS|MMER|NG ToDRAWoUTTHENATURALBoUQUEToFTHE|NGRED|ENTS;AND'F|NALLY'
THE BOILING DOWN TO REDUCE AND CONCENTRATE FLAVOUR' RTOUCTIOUS ARE VERY IMPORTANT IN STOCKS AND SAUCES. IN NII MY A HALF OR RECIPES, YOU WILL FIND DIRECTIONS TO REDUCE DOWN BY
TWO-THIRDS
EVEN WITH
THIS
IS
ASNooTHER,MAG|C'INGRED|ENTSARENEEDED,TH|SKEEPS|TL|GHT|N
TEXTURE TOO, NEITHER CLOYING NOR THICK NOR FORMING
SKIN.
Tgr SrILI IN
EVEN
CIN
CHOP VEG-
ETABLESANDREGULATEAcooKERTABYoUcANMAKEAGooDSToCKBASE OR SAUCE. AIT YV STOCKS ARE MADE IN THE SAI'4E WAY. TFTY XNY
TAKE TIME, BUT THEy ARE UNDEMANDING AND,
MAKING UP A FULL BATCH AND FREEZING IN SOOVi/ ISTI OZI2 CUP AND
BLocKS.
HAVE YouR
lf you don't have a stockpot then a preserving pan will do. 2 For brown stocks, it is necessary to roast the bones oI carcasses initial1y in a very hot oven, turning occasionally. This gives flavour and colour
to the srock.Any fat should be drained oiTbefore adding the bones to the stockpor. Light stocks and fish srocks don't require this initial browning.
will form.This
is a natural accu-
mulation of proteins and vegetable starches that wili cloud the stock unless
removed. Frequent skimming
with
4 Do
not season stocks r,rith salt.There is enough natural salt in the veg-
with
wet muslin cloth. Alternatively, an old, clean tea towel will sufEce.When the stock cools, chill it and scrape off any fat that forms on the top'
BUILDiNG tsLOCKS
I3
Vegetable nage
: ]:- CIOUSLY LIGHT, NEUTRAL BASE FOR MANY OF MY SAUCES AND SOUPS -r- s eulcKAND EASYTo MAKE,AND IDEAL FoR GENERAL usr' lru somr : .,. SAUCES, I usr Vrcernelr NRcr tN coMBlNATloN wlrH orHER .::<S To L|GHTEN rHev, FoR MAX|MUM FLAVoUR, ooN't STRA|N oUT .-: .:GETABLES AFTER COOKING. LEIVC TUEY TO STEEP IN THE STOCK' .-:" fRAIN SOME 24 HOURS LATER. I .-e the PrePared
-.: ,:.le-' along rvith
.::r,rn rvedges, PeP-
2 celery
.::1.c
in a stockpot
4 star anise
.::a
\:lUCepan.
2 litres/3% pints/9
the
: :hc liquid so that everything is submerged, ::: 'ct the stock aside to cool and allow the
:.-. to infuse the stock with their flavourings'
5 :i hcn
t1-re
stock
jars the
24 hours.
through
STORAGE
VrcEtneLE Nnce
a muslin-lined colander set over a large bowl' Discard the vegetables, herbs and spices' The stock is now ready to use. Alternatively, chill
or freeze it untii required.
wtrl
KEEP FoR uP
To 3
DAYs lN A SEALED rN
oR 2-3 voNrls
FREEZE
rrte
IT
IS
N COOO
cups
IDEA
TO
IT IN
FL
BLOCKS OF
500vr-/
lSrr ozl2
nxo or l00vl/3tA
ozlt/z cuP'
If
I4 I]UILDING BLOCKS
Fish stocl<
TFir sssr FtsH
OR SOLE
HAKE
BoNES
ARE TURBoT
OTHERS
CAN
BUT
Cur our rHE EyEs AND GtLLs, AND MAKE suRE ANy TRACES oF BLooD ARE wASHED out. lr youR
FISHMONGER OOESITI'T HAVE SUFFICIENT BONES, YOU
PIECES
oR HADDoCK wtLL Do
CAN
USE TAIL
OF FISH INSTEAD.
% bulh .fennel,
Jinell' chopped
cloues
garlic, unpeeled
I In a covered
coloured.
100m1 / 3%
Jl
oz
/'l
over a nedium heat for abor-rt 7 mtrutes until they are softened but not
1.5kg/ 3lb 4oz .fish bones, rouohll, chopped 300m1/% pint/ 1% cups dry uthite tuine
2 3 4
Add the fish bones and u'ine, and cook until the wine has evaporated.
Pour in the water, which should just cover the bones. l3ring to the boii
sltrigs each
o;f
and, using a ladle, skim off rhe scurn that rises to the top.
'/
lernon sliccs
the
lemon, sliced
fresl-r herbs,
heat and allorv to rest undistr-rrbed for about [J minutes so that the liquid can clear and settle.
STORAGE
Tlts sroc<
wtLL
KEEp
FoR up
ro 7
lt
onys rN
SEALED
Strain the stock b1' pouring the contetrts of the pan through a rnushn-
IT IS BOILED
lined colander set over a large bou'1 or food container. cool the strained
stock, then chill or fieeze until required.
3-4 oeys.
DESIRED
tN
USABLE
At4ouNTs AS
FoR up
ro 2 voNrls.
Fish velout6
THe rtcHr BoDy oF THts FULL-FLAVouRED sAUCE coMEs FRoM THE wE,._
REDUCED
TII"1E
I
BE MADE AHEAD oF
DAYS.
I In 2
oz/2
cttps
Fish
Stock (aboue)
250n1/9J1
250m1
oz/1utp
double cream
/9fl oz/1
3 4 5
Stir in the Fish Stock. Bring the hquid back to the boil then continue
both creans. Return the par to the boil and si'rmer the
accir,rires a
sauce
coating consistencl..
For an extra smooth, velvetv tertlue, pour the sauce through a fine sieve.
BUILDING BLOCKS
I5
Langoustine stock
- - > STOCK
OF ONE OF MY FAVOURITE RECIPES' '-. CnppuccrNo oF Ronsrro LRNcousrtrue nNo Lerurtls (encr 35). ' : A VERY VERSATILE STOCK WHICH CAN BE REDUCED TO MAKE A .;, >rlNG SAUCE lN ITS OWN RIGHT WHICH lS IDEAL FOR SERVING WITH
FORMS THE BASE
I litre/
21
heads,
I. 3.I
weighing about
/ 1lb
' :;
i vtNAtcRETTE. As sucH, tr wtLL MAKE A MEMoRABLE DRESSING ,r; r\y sALAD wHrcH tNCLUDES SEAWATER FlsH oR sHELLF|SH.You mnv . ..: THAT YOUR FISHMONGER SELLS LANGOUSTINES UNDER THE NAME OF l -:- N Bnv pRAwNs. lNsrrno oF THRowING AWAY THEIR HEADS r ; -!i PEELING, RESERVE THEM FOR MAKING THIS STOCK. LOBSTER
:;:ASSES, cHoppED tNro 5cm/2tN
] J bUUU ErTELI.
PtECES,
2
'L
cloues
garlic, unpeeled
cAN
BE PUT
To rHE
sAME
teaspoons Cognac
200m1/7Jl
oz/Z
| :::.rr;r
large roasting pan on top of the cooker and add half of the oil.
heads and shells
500m1/18-fl oz/2 cups cold water 1 large sprig each o;f tarragon, basil, thyme
and coridnder
% bay leaf
' :::rning
:: .inother large pan, heat the remaining oil and add all of the vegeta.-rut6eing them until they start
2 star
anise
the Cognac, then add the wine and boil until reduced by
.:: half. Pour in the Fish Stock, water, fresh herbs and spices. Simmer ':.rck for about 20 minutes to reduce
it
ral flavours. { .::rin the liquid through a muslin-lined sieve. It is now ready to use . .rock, which can be reduced again slightly for a little more : - :nrration of flavour and to make a delicious sauce. Check the : -,r:rins iust before use.
: :l:c
salt (optional)
STORAGE
THE srocK AND THE sAUcE wtLL KEEP FoR up
THE REFRTcERAToR, oR FoR
to
2 olvs
tN
upto 2 ttoNttls
lN THE FREEzER.
I6 BUILDING BLOCKS
FRAGRANT
srocK oF vEGETABLES,
HERBS
Arrrn
usrr.tc
lr
tr cAN BE
2 celery
sulhcient water to just cover the ingredients. Bring the water to the boil.
Bring the
2
5
bulbs
cloues
Strain the stock by pouring the contents of the pan through a muslin-
lined colander set over a large bowi or food container. Discard the vegetables, herbs, spices and lemon.The
2 litres/3% pints/9
259/1oz rock salt 2
lemons, sliced
use.
4 star anise
400m1/14J1 oz/1% cups dry white wine
STORAGE
Counr-goutlloN wrLL
KEEp
FoR up
ro
rr.r
SEALED coNTAtNER
lN THE
REFRtcERATon
2-3
MONTHS IN THE
FREEZER.
Veal stock
THe ense FoR MANy oF My sAUCES,VEAL Srocrc HAs RtcHNEss, BoDyAND
AN ATTRACIvE
FoR THts
srocK
BECAUsE
OF THEIR GELATINE
AND FINE FLAVOUR; BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE BEEF BONES,
BUTCHERs,
jkg/57'lb 2
ALTHoUGH YoU MAY NEED To oRDER THEM IN ADVANcE.AS BoTH VEAL AND
TO BE QUITE
LARGE, ASK
large roasting
to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Place the bones irr a pan with half the olive oi1 and roast in the oven until gold-
350m1/12fl oz/1%
in a stockpot or
large saucepan with the remaining oi1. Fry gently until tighdy coloured,
2009/7oz
mushrooms
turning occasionally.
BUILDING BLOCKS I7
] .- : ::r the tomato pur6e and continue cooking until everythingis gold: .'. jr then pour in the Madeira and the port. Reduce the liquid by : ::cntlv until it acquires a syrupy consistency. { ': , c the bones have a rich colour, drain them ofany fat using kitchen
: :.-t cls if
necessary.
STORAGE
Tte sroc<
FoR
oevs tN A
SEALED
A GooD 5
2
utNures
EVERY
2-3
oevs.
Tur srocr
_
IN
5 - :.::. rhe water to the boil, skim off the scum that rises using a ladle, then ' r: inushrooms and the Bouquet Garni. Simmer very gently for about
.:'. rkinrming offany further scum that accumulates on the surface'
FOR UP TO
T4ONTHS.
6 .':,::: the stock by pouring the contents of the pan through a muslin: -.,l.rnder set over a iarge bowl. Discard the bones, vegetables and
,::: (';rrni.
.i :'.-r out the stockpot or saucepan and return the stock to the pan
.:,...r'n again
Lam
b stocl<
INGREDIENTS (makes about
2 lltresl3Z pints/9 cups) 2kg/4'/.lb lamb rib or neck bones
!.:: r:Lv FoR usE tN LAMB DISHES AND sAUcEs.WE usE RIB oR NEcK oF -i 3ONES, BUT SHOULDER OR LEG BONES ARE ALSO FINE. I
,'::'irc.rt the oven to 200"C/400"F/Gas Mark 6. Place the lamb bones
r:gc roasting tin and stir in haif the oil. Roast in the oven for 50-60
100m1/37,J1
2 3 { 5 6
2 celery
):glaze r.vith the wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by about
250m1/9JI oz/1 cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon concentrated tomato purle 1 Bowquet Carni (page 18)
: \rir
,i :nrove the bones from the oven and tip into the stockpot or saucepan,
,,,: cereful to avoid pouring in any of the fat or oil.
.:.rJual1y bring to the boil, skimming
with
-'-:::r.nt that forms on the top. lJorl gently for about 4 hours or until reduced by half,
. .r.rona1ly.
STORAGE
sti11
skin'rming
KEEP FoR uP
To A wEEK lN A
SEALED
7 t..rretully pour through a mi-rslin-lined colander set over a bowl. 6 'd ipe out the stockpot or saucepan and return the stock to the pan. Boil :.::r r.rntil reduced to about 2 \itres/3% pints/9 cups. Cooi, chill and
:.:rrr)\'e any fat that sets on the top. use as required.
lr vnv FOR
_ IN USABLE
AMOUNTS AS DESIRED
TO 2 MONTHS.
-E
I8 BUILDING BLOCKS
Chicl<en stock
A cooo
IN TUT
BASE
roo srRoNG
lN TAsrE'
FRESH
RESTAURANT
CARCASSES FROM
A GOOD
lN
PACKS'
BEFoRE usE.
Placc rlte rau chicken cJrcrsie\ or joirrL' irr 'r 'ttr' kPor ot'l rrqc sauccpln and cover r,vith the rvater. Ijring to the boll. skrlrmirlg rve1l r'vith a ladle'
2
3 3
'.1
hours,
skimming frequentlY.
a muslir-r-
259/1oz
tock salt
STORAGE
THE srocK wlLL
KEEP
FoR uP
To 7 oevs tN A
SEALED
MAY
IN
USABLE AI'4OUNTS
AS
DESIRED
To 2 volrus.
the oven to 200"c/.100"F/Gas Mark (. Roast the chicken clrcasses or: joints for about 15-20 minutes, turning frequentlH until dark golden bror,vn. l)rain through a colander then proceed s-ith the recipe above'
Bouquet garni
You cout-o
cEL. uSE THE
JUST TIE THEsE LEAVES
INGREDIENTS (for
'butt' oJ 1 large leek
',4
I Bouquet Garni)
THESEEDSINTOTHEPOT,BUTWEPREFERTOII4AKETHEMINTOANEATPAR-
celery stick
wILLKEEPFREsHFoRsEVERALDAYSIFSToREDINTHEREFR|GERATOR.
Separate out the outer 2 leaves of the rvhite of the leek and place the
seeds.
6 coriander
seeds
2 Fold in the ends and sides of the leek 3 Tie firmly in a nunrber of places.
BUILDING tsLOC]KS
I9
D ressings
and sauces
:: THESE DRESSINGS AND SAUCES CAN BE I.1ADE IN LARGER AMOUNTS -ti:D rN THE REFRtcERnron. lryou HAVE DtFFtcuLTy MEASURING SMALL .'-) oF LIQUIDS, REMEMBER THAT ONE STANDARD MEASURING TABLE-
3Denaoe
I
":.I) , :.
THIS
in the refrig-
.i .rre
as required.
-e sto
, ,:.,:]E " : ,::
PESTO
READY-
ETIES.
/'l
:;:t pine kernels, garlic and Parrnesan into a food processor or .: .rnd pl'ocess until fine1y ground. :lc nrotor still running. feed the brsil leaves into the machine
50g/2oz garlic
50g/2oz /',4
cup
30g/1lioz basil
l2ll
5)tnl
or
jug.Add
250m1/9_fl
oz/'l
again
to fortn a light
can
juirc
sea
o;f % lemon
Llse to
20 I]UILDING tsLOCKS
wtrH CnssnGE AND CEees (ence 67), eur EQUALLY sruNNlNG rossED lNro sALAD or Mtxeo Salno LERvrs (encr 54), on PoURED ovER Hor NEW PorAroEs AND
Rngetr
SIMpLE pOACHeO rtSH.TnUrFLE OIL
or
CAN
BE
In
50ml/2fl
sea
oz/'l
2 Lightly whip the cream until it just begins to hold soft peaks, then fold it into the Vinaigrette. Taste for seasoning and use as required. Leftover
dressing can be stored
in
Sauce vierge
A
coRrnNoeR AND
BASTL DRESSING
wHlcH
MAKES
AN
EXCELLENT MATCH
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
6 basil
leaves
I 2
Shred the basil and coriander leaves into fine jr-rlienne strips, and crush
seeds
6 coriander
seeds
the coriander
Heat the oi1 and lemon juice very gentlv in a srnall saucepan then add
the Shallot Confit, herbs, crushed berries, vinegar and seasoning. Stir briefly, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse ibr at least 5 and up
to 30 minutes. Serve the
sauce warm, at room temperature
or chilled.
Sauce antiboise
A clnsstc
TASTE
FREsH
TO
3 3
co1d, and
peel their
skins away. Quarter, remove the seeds and cut into very fine dice; set aside. heavy-based pan, sweat the shallots and garlic gently
about 5 minutes or until softened, but still uncoloured. Meanwhiie, shred the herbs into fine julienne strips. Mix them into the
shallots and leave to infuse off the heat for 5 minutes'
6 basil
leaues
6
sea-
sprigs tdrragon
o;f % lemon
Stir in the tomato dice and heat gently. Add the lemon jr-rice and
juice
sea
soning to taste. Serve hot. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for
several days and reheated as necessary.
Rouille
AFnTTcHEGGANDOLIVEo|LSAUCEToSERVESPREADoNRoUNDSoF FRENCg BREAD, THEN FLOATED IN FISH SOUPS, SUCH AS BOUII.LNBNISSE
l Boil
io cool.
Peel the hard-boiled eggs, chop them roughly and rub through a metal
200m1/7fl
sea
oz/'l
egg
and
.casoning. Crush the saffron strands into the mixture and blend well' 4 Trickle in the oil very slowly, beating steadily with a wooden spoon
.ri if making a mayonnaise,
until you
MOnrrtsu (encr | | 3) nruo courrr oF TuNA (encr 107). I orrrN SERVE FlsH wlrH MEAr'XrAry'
FlsH, sucH As ROASTED
Have ready the Chicken Stock and set aside' In another saucepan boil :he bottle of wine until it is rich and syrupy and reduced to about enough
glass.
heat the
oil and
12 blatk peppercorns
1 sprig thyme 1 small bay leaf
.,r'ith the five-spice powder, peppercorns! thyrne and bay leaf until .rramelized about 10 minutes. Deglaze with the vinegar then pour in
:he red wine'syruP'.
3 Stir in the Chicken Stock, bring to the boil then boil hard for about lo minutes to reduce by about ha1f, skimming occasionally with a ladle
.rs
required.
pour this at least twice through a sieve lined with wet muslin or a fine
a
cloth to remove all the vegetables and herb particles until you have
.r'r]ooth sauce. Season as required.
22 BUILDING BLOCKS
Jus de fraises
CoNslsrtNc
pLEMENT soLELY oF THE PURE JUIcE
oF
RIPE STRAWBERRIES
- wlrH
No
ADDEDsUGAR_THIsFRESH-TAST|NGDESSERTSAUcEIsTHEIDEALcoM-
ron
in a heatproof bowl. cover with cling film and set the bowl over a pan of simmering water for 25-30 minutes, or until the juice has drained ful1y from the fruit. 2 Meanwhile, line a sieve with damp muslin or with a damp, thi'n tea
3 Remove the
through the sieve. when all the juice has dripped through the discard the fruit pulp and chili until required.
Crdme pAtissidre
A
XNNVTTIOUSLY USEFUL BASE FOR COLD
OR HOT
RECIPES.
UST IT ES N
CREAMF|LL|NGFoRFRU|TTARTSANDFLANSoRASASoUFFLEBASE.
BECIUST A SINGLE BATCH CAN HAVE MULTIPLE USES, IT IS WORTH MAKING
pintl2t/z cuPs)
MoRETHANYoUNEED,EsPEcIALLYASITWILLKEEBIFWELLcoVERED'FoR
UP TO A WEEK IN THE REFRIGERATOR.
90g/3oz/% cup 2
plainJlour
I Put the milk to boil in a large saucepan. 2 ln a large bow1, whisk together the sugar and egg yoiks until the mixture is pale. Gradually work in the two flours, mixing well until
the ingredients are blended smoothly.
1 dessertspoon cornJTour
the milk srarts to boil, pour half of it in a thin stream on to the yolk mixture, whisking well as you pour.When it is u'e1l blended, whisk
3 when
lr rs unno ro t'tAKE CnEvr PArtsstERE lN VERY SMALL euANTrrEs. lr n Rectpe cALLs FoR A QUARTER oF THE
AMOUNT GIVEN
HERE, MAKE
IT
in the remaining hot miik in the same way. 4 Return the mixture to the saucepan and set it over a iow to medium heat. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for up to 2 minutes until i't
starts
to leave the sides of the pan. It should now be smooth and thick. cool for a few minutes, then spoon back into the bowl. cover the surface tightly with cling frlm to prevent a skin from fornring.
When cold, use as required.
2
2
flour
1 teasytoon cornJTour
BUILDING BLOCKS
23
Stock syruP
SUCH AS POACHING - I:-- FOR A GREAT MANY DESSERT METHODS A r- \c DRIED FRUIr sucH AS Appt-E Tullrs (encr 184) on PRovlDlNG OF ITS HIGH SUGAR t * : :]R, FRUIT SALADS AND FRUITTERRINES. BTCNUST '.t:\T, Srocr SYnup reeps wELL lN THE REFRIGERAToR FoR AT LEAST I -:r-rs. lT IS ALWAYS usEFULTo HAVE A BATCH To HAND'
FRUIT'
1',/,lb /
'l
:lti .j.
into
a heavy-based saucepan'
ai1
Bring
:.. the boil, stlrrlng occasionally'When boil the syrup for about 5 minutes'
-.
Pite a bombe
PROVIDESTHEM .: -'lS ASTHE BASE FOR MANY OF MY ICE-CREAMS AS lT '- -,GHTNESS AND sTABlLlrY' THE METHoD ls slMlLAR To rHAT usED . -AKING LEMON CURD - THE INGREDIENTS ARE STIRRED IN A HEATWATER UNTILTHE MIX"T::: BOWL SET IN A BAIN-MARIE OF SIMMERING - :: S THICK ENOUGH TO HOLD A WOODEN SPOON UPRIGHT'
2009/7oz/1
i
,
r:
:-
,-,
i:rLlcepan of water on
yolks, water and :,..rf borvl that will fit inside the saucepan, whisk the : .rrtril the ingredients are smoothly blended'
L i.
.-:n the water st:Irts to boil, adjust to a simmer and set the bowl the height rr :hc saucepan, ensuring that the water level just reaches mixture has '.,k. stirring frequently, for up to one hour or untii the upright ...:rcd the pornt at which you call stand a wooden spoon
' : illl\tufe.
to
:: ientre. During cooking, check the water level from time to tlme ' :.\l it up with more boiling water as necessary'
'
,::-
cool slightly then the heat remove the bowl, allow the mixture to Using :: tl.rrough a fine sieve with the back of a spoon or a ladle
it
.::lrrttr. U\c
as requlreo.
-r
24 BUILDING BLOCKS
Meringue
Italian meringue
THIS IS A
STABLE TYPE
OF
MERINGUE
rNTo A
NEED
SYRUP, BoILED
To rHE HARD BALL srncr (ron wHIcH You wlLL rUrN wHlsKED INTO WHIPPED
EGG WHITES.
FROI'4
su,qar
SUGAR THERMOMETER),
2 6
LtQuto
over a gentle heat, stirring occasionallr," until the sugar and glucose have
HAVE
EGG
A BALLOON
it
reaches 116"C/2'+0"F
Meanr.r,hi1e,
egg r,vhites to the soft peak stage :rnd turn otT the m:rchine. Let the sugar
reach 121.'Cl250"F
Lnmediately renlove the s,vrup fronl the heat' 3 Tr.rrn the mixer rvith the egg lvhites back on to a slorv speed'
Slorvlv pour the sugar syrup dor,vn the side of the borvl into the rvhrtes,
French meringue
TI-TIS YTRINCUE NEEDS
AS THE SUGAR IS
NOT
DIS-
soLVED AND
so
BREAKS
To srAND'
lr
ts
Qutrr
UNLIKE
SYRUP.
cuPs)
salt
cLtps cdster sugdr
I 2 3
250g/9oz/1%
Using an electric u,hisk, beat slorvly at first to form a froth then gradBeat to firm peak stage making sure the r.r,hites are not overbeaten, drv
sti1l run-
or grainy. Slorvlv add the remaining sugar n'hile the beaters are
according to recipe requlrerllents
ning. The mixture should become smooth and gloss1'. Use imrnediately
BUILDIN G I]LOCKS
25
Pastry
Puff pastry
f
lr ts rLn -+ HOMEMADE PUrr Pnsrnv ls QUIrE A REVELATION! "G * ].:q. THAN BOUGHT PASTRY YET STILL LIGHT AND FLAKY WITH A FULL, I ..:i- TNSTT. ONCE YOU HAVE PRACTISED MAKING IT TWO OR THREE . -::. - BECOMES SURPR|S|NGLY EASY To Do, AND |T's HARD To TURN
1r
-. -C
r,
.:l out 450g/11b of the flour into a bowl and mix in the salt'Rr-rb ' ; )oz of the butter until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs'
hand' . ,:r be done rn a food mixer, a food processor or by
.. I -: :irc vinegar, then trickle
our
oF THE
REFRIGERAToR
ABour
AN
dough'You may not -:::til the insredients come together in a smooth : .-. the water, or you nlay need a little extra lt is hard to be specifrc' wrap :: :iris crn be done in a machine or by hand. Knead gently then
EDGES
:r;
fihl-r.
] , .:J '
butter' the reuaining50g/2oz of the four wi'th the rest of the and :. l.cst done by machine, processing until the mixture is smooth \nrcs together. Spoon the butter mixture out onto a large sheet of
and shape into a rectangle about 14
a lT ts |MPoRTANT
oF
ROLLING ISTHE EVENLY INTOTHE DOUGHAND CAREFUL NEAT ROLL AND BEST METHOD FOR ENSURING THIS, SO ALWAYS
:::lrrr
'
x2()cn/5/' x Sin"Wrap up
'---:telv in the cling film and chill both the dough and butter packages
AND
::
\:r .r lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle .: ts'ice the srze of the butter mixture (approximately 25 x 35cm/10
. - -1. Iinecessary, tease the dough into shape' the 9 -r;c the butter nlxture down the long side of the dough' fold over " completely then pinch the edges to seal' 6 : :he dough in 7 :
one direction only until
-,:ir to enclose the butter dry pastry-brush' then carefully roll - )ust off any surplus flour r'vith a
it is about
down and placi,.rlcl the dough neatly inro three, bringing the top third
Give the dough a quarter-turn and roll out roll out again to :,:ir. I)ust the board and rolling pin lightly with flour and and corners neat' ..rrq rectangle the same size as before, keepi'ng the edges
it'
8 :
in cling fiinr rnd leave to rest in the -.::igerator for 2tl minutes' IJnwrap, then, with the snrooth' folded edge
Fold into thirds as before, rvrap
tfre side, ro11 out again into a long rectanele as before'
26 BUILDING BLOCKS
Fold again in three, give the dough a quarter-turn, ensuring the folded
edge is still on the same side as before, and repeat the rolling and folding.
Give another quarter-turn and fold into thirds, then fold again immediately so that you have a double thickness of pastry.W'rap in cling film and
ahead,
stage,
divid-
ing it in halfor quarters according to the recipe. If, however, you intend to
use the dough straight away, then roll
and
turning
as before.
layers
between the dough; this is what causes it to rise in light, crisp layers. For spe-
AN ELEcrRtc MtxER
butter, softened dt
180g/6oz/% cup
cdster sugar
sugar
not flufTy. Siit open the vanilla pods, scrape out the
them to
500g/1lb 2oz/3%
% teaspoon salt
cups plainJTour
2 3
Gradually add the eggs, one by one, watching that they don't curdle. Sift together the flour and salt in a large bowi.Turn the machine dor,vn
as
Stop the machine once or twice and scrape down the mixture.
the mixture
clings together as a crumbly dough, stop the machine, remove the dough
4 Divide the mixture into batches according to the recipe required. 5 Wrap any leftover pastry in cling film and store in the freezer where
it will
keep for several weeks.
BUILDING BLOCKS
27
-, IT'S EASIER.
..]ER TO
TIIlEWISE,
plainJlour
AND
FROZEN.
4 2
eggs
A BALLAS IT FORI4SA
DRY SKIN
AND ISTHEN
5 egg yolks
tabLespoorts oliue
,-r ro
RoLL
PAsrA ts EAslEsr
wlrH A PARTNER.
oil
Pasta dough
::r. tlour and.alt
Logethcr and place in
:':i)cessor along with the eggs, yolks and oil.
. .intil the mixture starts to come together .:.r crumbs. Stop the nrachine and press
of the mixture together in your The mixture should not crack, but if it ':'\).css it again for a few seconds. Tip the
.rnrount
:, out onto
3-4
machine several
.,^--:-wrrll )Ldr Lrrrts .,,:1L ,L-
times
-,--L
::'i
]:.,:a,.:,i:'
,::,t"'
,,,.
"'
:'. ::'.':
:::,
a
2B IJUILDING T]LOC]KS
Tortellini
fillillg accorcling to the recipe Ycrr't s,ill probabh'neecl about hrlf thc'qurntin'of ]r:rstr b:rsic lecipe' Dor-rg1-r rollecl out :rs dcscribed in the
Preparc yor-ir
Pre pat'e
s:rlt ancl
out
:1s
lriulv
c--ilcles
:rs
:ffi E
1E
2-3Pressrballoffillirlgontoorresic]eofeacl.rp:rstlclisc.Usingapastr:-v_ p:rstr disc n'ith the berten eqg rvash' brr.rsh, brush round the edqes oieach 4.5FolcloVeItornakeaserrli'cit-clc.Irr.esstheedgesrrelltoseal,rrlakirrq
sure thel:e :rre no :rir pockcts ol: teal:s'
5-8
cclgc
trvo tips of the straight Take e:rch semi-circle in vour hatrcl ,rnci curl the up itltlcr r'ittg'r" 1'1't"111. s'cll to seal.Then tttrn the edges :r,'ttttd
)"ttt'
to for"rn
:r
'brinr' likc'
:r
srltecl
and 30 seconcls for t:rglirtelle I)r'rirl atrcl itrnlet-se in ice-colcl Nilter Lrntil colcf i)rain again'Wr:rp in
ciing
filrl
c1'
Reheat in a ltt-
tle boiltng rvater and butter for 1-2 tnlt'lutes' Altern:Ltivell'. cook prsta for one lllillLlte longer
than the
tir-r'res
IEL*******
BUILDINC] BLOCKS
29
Tagliatelle
'
'.'.rre
ro11
' :. brcks of clean ch:rirs. .: rire sheets lightlv r'vith flour. Fix the special noodle cutters into the
..rihnre. Feed
: . turlt the handle.As the pasta strands emerge, stop turning at lnter:':'.'.rJing the noodles oLtt on the other side to prevent thern sticking.
I ' {
:-:r vou've finished clrtting the first sheet, lift up the noodles in one
.:..1 ru
trJy. Lcrve
,rrrinutes.
::-h ,rnd refiesh the tagliatelle (page 28), then continue with the
.::r.r1
recipe.
R,avioli
-2
filling according to your recipe. : rlh'. r'ou w-ill need about half thc quantity
,':.e!.rrre the
discs
. lirr-rsh round the edges rvith egg rvash as for '. .rrrr and place a second disc on top of each.
of
ti-re pasta
l:-^^ ulrLJ
L--.-;.-^L:-^ UY PllILrrrr15
it
it
- c-\cess
:ii
ril
:|,.
;i
rllr
'r:p
if
.::,'::
.l1 ,.,ll,
i.
,:::
k
ffi
#
p
.. nt(tking soups
as
tt'r
carry
few
ltieces of
floating
debris. maybe
(page
'::t
frothy
Coppuccino, serued
:ttc tastebwds,Then there are soups fhat resemble light, main meals with lobster
;,
or
prettily 'turned'
uegetables resting
Euen the simplest of ouy soups bears an enhancing garnish. For exdmple, the
.:.
pttrted Broccoli Soup (page 50) has a special touch of baby rauioli; and
my
':trite Coppuccino of Haricots Blancs with Morels (pog, 32) is topped with ',:,' delicate shauings
o;f
trffie.
the
{AL
il
32 SOUl'S
tN wHICH
BEANs GtvEs
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
800m1/1 pint
611
AND
Tur cAppucctNo-LtKE FRorH ts MADE By wHtsKtNG wtrH A spEctAL ELEcrRrc Bnvrx (srr pncr 189 ron sueerrrn), ALrHoucH A DoMESTTc
uRv. t'4uLTt-BLENDER
250g/9oz/1
RESULTs.
AoolNc tcE-coLD
BUTTER ts rHE
soaked ouernight
SECRET OF PRODUCING
SAUCES
AND
SOUPS,
Have ready the Chicken Stock or Vegetable Nage. Drarn the soaked
b_v
1009/3%oz/ 1%
cups
rvater.
50g/2oz/% stirk
2 lloil for 3
until the
beans ale
just soft.
Using a slotted spoon! relnove about 10{.)g,/3oz of the beans and reserve
pint/'/
for the garnish. Continue cooking the remaincler fbr"a further 10 nrinutes or until they are very soft.
a.fewfne
sea
slices o;f;fresh
trufile (optional)
Drain, discard the onion, carrot and Bouquet Garni and blend the beans
a food processor
a sieve
to a fine pur6e in
add either-thc
hickcrr Stock
or
rhc
i1151
stock into the bean pur6e until the remaining truflle oil.
it
Divide the reserved beans and mushrooms between r,varmed soup plates
sor"rp,
ing point. Using the Bamix or blender, u'hisk in the ice-cold butter and
it up as you
slices
work to prevent it losing its airy rpperrance. Garnish with the fine oI lresh tru[fle ilt using and ccrve instantly.
:ii''"' i:::'
',:: ,::':,::.
SOUPS
35
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
150g/5oz/% cup Puy lentils
7 smdll carrot, peeled
% onion, peeled
1 largeJresh Bouquet Carni (page 18) 1 litue/1% pints/4% cups Langoustine Stock
-,:r,tcr to a saucepan. just cover with cold water then add the
'
1 teaspoon trulfle oil a lirrle oliue oil,Jor sautieing 72 medium langoustines, shelled and cleaned
- :.' rhe boil then simmer for about 20 minutes or until quite soft. ' -: .|scard the vegetables and Bouquet Garni. In a food processor
::.'.:r blend the lentils to a fine pur6e, and set aside.
.::r rn the lentil pur6e and rehear unril it just srarrs ro rhicken. :' otherwise the mixture will not froth to a cappuccino later. Stir
.
.,-:ri
as
?,
dS
.$,&
S' $
:d eg,
*:
l"i *
*i X ;ir
36 SOUPS
INGREDIENTS (for 5)
8009 /
Hor lN wlNrER oR
LIGHTLY cHILLED
lN suMMER' Hrnr' I
sERVE
lr
1lb 7 2oz
1%
watercress
SO EASY'
1 litre /
1 tablespoon salt
I Trimthe watercress ofits stalks.Discard the stalks. then rvash the ieaves
trvice. Drain lvell'
oil
rn
jeshly ground
black PePPer
3JustastheoilstartstogetVeryhot,careful]l'addthervatetcressleaves and stir continuousiy as they begin to n'ilt' 4.Whenthewatercresshasreducedbr,abouttrvo_thirdsinvolume,add frorn the other the potatoes and stir lvell. Pour rn the boiling sllted r'vater
pan. Return
OPENING AN OYSTER
Usr oNrv oYsrERs rHAT
THEy ARE
ARE TIGHTLY SHUT As
rHls
MEANS
srlLl
FRESH.
to the
the
To
r foocl
Two
sHELLs NEXT
To rHE
HINGE.
Twtsr rle
PRISE APART
KNIFE UNTIL
THE
SHELLS'
as possible of a ladle. If cooking ahead' cool dorvn the pur6e as quicklv preserve the colour by standing the pan in a borvl of iced u'ater'This helps
lvreotr'rerv sllcE
OYSTER
THRoUGH THE
llusclE ATTAcHING
THE
of rhc
soup.
prise open the oysters using an oyster knife or one rnto a with a rigid, short, sharp blade (right) Save their juices and drain Bring the juices to a gentle boil' then add the oysters tlnd poach for just 5 seconds so they ate iightly cooked' 7 Return the soup pur6e to the saucepan and
bring back to the oyster boil. Place an oyster in each r'varmed soup plate Add the the juices to the soup, check the seasoning and pour the sor-rp over
oysters. Serve immediatelY.
SOUPS
37
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1kg/2lb loz smdll Mediterranedn.fkh,
chosen conger
To
lr
ls
TNRNNEAN FISH.
TO
dorade
NEED
FRESHLY
VNOE CROOTONS
(I
in lulf
: : !-tERMAN'S
-.:'.rre the fish. Remove and discard the eyes and gi1ls (these rvi1l
::.1: t:rste bitter) but leave the bones, then chop into smal1 pieces'
I I . |
::-' \.rlrcepan, heat one-third of the oil, then : - lSouquet Garni and satTron.
r:,.:. -'
3
'1
in a large frying pan, heat the remaining oil and fry the fish
are golden. Drain through a colan-
.feut stalks oJ basil -few stalks of pdrsley sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- :l.h to the
' t
:.'.luced, add the wine and simmer briskly until the liquid has
i:.!)r.rt one tablespoon.
TO GARNISH:
1
r::\)nr:rtoes, water, basil and parsley stalks. Bring to the boil ::: tirr ?5 minutes, skimming off any froth with a ladle every :.:J .ontents of the pan through a colander set over a large bowl' ' r- .:r.rined liquor. Reserve the fish and vegetables in the colander'
x quantitl
Jtying (optional)
1509/ 5oz
Gruyirc
cheese,
grated
Pr-rr6e
vegetables
' r- i.rck of a ladle rub the pur6e through a fine sieve set over a ::',:n stir in the reserved liquor. Check the seasoning. Set aside . :':.p:rre the garnish of Rouilie (page 21) and crottons. '. ..iv the Roui1le. For the croitons, slice the baguette very thinly
: l.rtirre serving, reheat the soup gently while yor-r spread the . .'. rth Ror-rille. Ladle the soup into large, rvarmed bowls, float
:: ':r\ on top and sprinkle over the grated Gruydre.
38 SOUPS
Fr
ll
(noucrr)
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1 litre/1% pints/4% cups Fish Stock (page 14) 4 small red mullets, edch weighing about 1259/402, prepared into.fillets but with
heads and bones reserued
rrs
FrNE
IT
MAKES
A GOOD
SOUP AND, IN
DESCALED, AND ASK YOUR FISHMONGER TO FILLET THEI.1, SAVING THE HEADS
2 pinches
1
oJ
sffion
strands
AND BONES
pinch
Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside.'Wash the red mullet
fi11ets,
2 shallots, sliced
% hedd celery, roughly chopped
in cold water. Pat dry s-ith kitchen paper towels then remove any pin bones with tweezers. 2 Sprinkle the fillets with the satTron and cavenne. cover rvith cling film
heads and bones and set aside in a cool place or refrigerrtor to marinate for about 2 hours.
cloues
garlic, unpeeled
saucepan,
bror,vn.
pan.
TO GARNISH:
1 small carrot, cut into -fine julienne strips 1 small courgette, cut into
Bring slowly to the boil. Turn down to a gentle simmer and cook for
blend until smooth. Strain first through a fine sieve, then through
colander lined with wet muslin or clean fine cloth; this thorough straining
Blanch the julienne of carrot and courgette in lightly salted boiling aimost ready
water, then drailr and chill in ice-cold water. Drain again and set aside,
fry the fillets of red in a little more olive oil for about 2 minutes
serve, pan
side
to
or until golden bror'vn; then flip over carefully and cook the other
forjust 30
seconds.
9 Return
the soup to the pan and reheat until just boiling. Season with
lemon juice, salt and pepper. Place the fried fillets of red mullet in the
bottom of each soup plate and slor,vly pour over the hot, clear
soup.
Garnish with the julienne of carrot and courgette and serve immediately.
XX *l
:*sx
:ss.
X X *: g
ep
$,$
3s
4O SOUPS
Pumpl<in soup
WleN
pUMpKINS ARE
INGREDIENTS (for 8)
1 litre/1% pirtts/4'y' cups l:ish Stock (page 1
5
8
A sf4ALL cRowD.
Eve N
wurN
THEy ARE
1!
IN
ETHNIC FOOD
oR rN Wesr lNornru MARKETS. loeLLLy, MAKE THrs soup wtrH Ftst-t Srocr, wHtcH GoES wELL wtrH THE GARNtsH oF scALLops. Orre Rwrse CrrcrceN Srocr (encr l8) oR Vrcerlsre Nlcr (encr l3) wrrr BE FrNE.
sroRES the Fish Stock and set aside. Qu.u'tcr thc punrpkrn, pcel it and renrove all the seeds. Clhop the flesh into 1cm/Zin dice.
Have
r:ead-v
freshly grated
leaucs
/'l
stick butrer
creatn
100n1 /
Irr .r lrrgc '.rrrccp.rrr. helr hrlf tlrc oil rhcn stil in rlre rlir'ed purrrpkin. stirrinq r.r,-e11 to coat. Cover and srveat the l'lesh gently for about 10-12 minutes or until
it
starts
to soften and takes on a golden colour. Acld the Parmesan and cook
contents
OPENING A SCALLOP
Horo To
Pour in the Fish Stock, bring to the boil then sirnnrer lor a iurther
occasionalir,-.
rle
TEA
TowEL
for
A sHoRT,
FtRl'1-BLADED KNtFE,
PRISE
iNSERT
THEIY
4 In a food
processor
of the pan If
KNTFE BENEATH
SHELL.
pr.rl6e through a
Purr nwny
rnr
FRTLLv tyEMBRANE
ro
I'.1AKE
I,1EAT,
COVER
WITH CLING
FILM
REQUIRED.
drr irt l.lc.Lrr tc.r fot|cl. 5 Heat the remaining oi1 in a 1arge, heavy-based frving pan and 'roast' the scallops fbr about 2 nrirrutes on each side or uutil thel- have plcntv of colour. Ilenrove from tl're pan and split each sc:llop ir hrlf rvith a
1.1.'.'irrn r_.- __'b the leave' sharp knife.
Divide the scallops rrd spinach leaves betrveen e:rch soup bolvl. Reheat
the soup. gr-rdtralll 'tirri:rS in rhc burrer rnJ crcant..r:ttl r.Lstr'orttc .rglin
for
seasoning.
When the soup is on the point of boiling, ladle it over the scallops and
SOUPS 4I
":REASING
possrBLE
To
BUy
FREsH tyussELs
ALtlosr
sERVE
ro
':
WARMER,
oz/l
. tr.S OF
:lt
2 *allots,
if
necessary to
rnussels,
: ::r.' u'ine and the Bouquet Garni. Cover and give the p:rn .r ',,k. turning the mussels once, r-rntil their shells have opened ::.::rr. Discald any that renrain closed.
::: rhe heat and drain through a colander, reserving the liquor
: ..
cloues
tomatoes, chopped
r' .rbout 500m1/18fl oz,/2 cups). Pick the mussels from the
.rbout one-third of the mussels for the garnish and discard
good
pinch of salJion
:-
1 tablespoon Pemod
100m1
,:''lc :aucepan, heat the oi1 and sweat the shailots, celer,v, ieek,
sea
: .:.'
::..rls not being used for the garnish, together lvith the torna-
'
.. :,'r' .r [trr-thc; -{ lpiprrre. f-).-] ',e " irh rh,' r'crrr,riling ::.luced bv half.
ryirre.
-fine\
diced
, . rtlron, Pernod, 1,.4 Iitres/2% pints/(r cups of the Fish Stock : -'.i nrussel liquor. Bring to the boil then turn down the heat
:
,: l5-18 rlinutes.
, ;lrre
sreve
: :':'!)cessor or liquidizer, blend the ingredients to r puree. then rvith the back of a ladle. Set
aside.
salted
boiling
rvater
in the remain-
::.i .r$nst the seasoning. Place the reserved r,vhole mussels and
rn the bottom of r,varmed soup borvls. Pour over the soup and
..::.rtc]r'.
11l.
i:
SOUPS
43
followinq the
Stotk
(page 19)
100m1/
oz / % cup double crearn
--.
:
:. Lobster Stock, the Court-bouillon and the Basic Salad :- .lou'n the Lobster Stock until it has reduced by ..'..Lrr 350rn1,/12fl. oz/1% ctps. Stir in the cream and the
\.:rion and set aside,
',\
leavi.ng the herbs
5;v6psi1
leaues peeled
to infuse in
the
ircn cold, strain through a fine sieve and chill the soup.
',\.rter. Cover and blanch
for 3 minutes. Drain well and \.rledVinaigrette while still warm. Leave to cool. in a -::',,lles in the butter for 2 minr-rtes or so, then mlr
to cool.
1 liue baby
1
350-5009/
' :
bring the Cor-rrt-bouilion to the l.'fdr-s and cook them for 5-6 minutes. Leave to cool in -.:r volr are ready to serve, remove the lobsters fi-onl the
or- large saucepan, scoop olrt the flesh lrom the body and
2-1 6oz
sea
TO GARNISH:
and tarragon
, rn s'hole pieces. lrqhtlv chilled lobster soup betrveen large, wide :.r the iobster meat and place in a ring in the centre of ::rr.h round the outside with the reserved vegetables and . .rnd tarragon.
,:ii.,,l
:iil.
,ii,-:::t,
{t
44 SOUPS
sou p
tN souB I
LIKE To
TNGREDTENTS
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
150m1/% pint/% cup Flslr Sro,:ft plus d little exn'd Jbr podching @age 14) 250m1/9J1
1 00g / j
HERE
WITH
I'4OUND OF HOMEMADE
Tnclrnterre - so rHEy
LreuoR
sERVED As
wlrH
THE
LTGHT sAUcE.
lN rHE AuaenGtNE,wE
sERVE
THls souP
oz/1
9)
or _fi'e sh
Stock,
the
the
homemade
'/
if
1 lnrge
Cut the cucumber into 5cm./2in lengths. Stand each picce upright and
reserued (pdge
36)
slice
offthe four
the centre. Cr-rt each slice into thin juliennc strips and set
(page 40)
3 4
- just enough to
cover
for
bring the renraining Fish Stock and the FishVelor,rt6 to the boil.Add the reserved oyster juice.Turn dorvu to
Ir-r a 1arge. heavy-based saucepan,
knob
sed
butter
a very gentle
sirlmer
scallops and cook for a further 30 seconds.Add the lemon juice, the chives
in a little boiling r.vater rvith the butter added until just tender, about 2-3 nrinutcs. If you are using fresh ready-made pasta, follou' the pack instructions. Drain, and lift r"rp a 5 Cook the
homenrade Tagliatelle quarter ofthe pasta onto a fork and roll irrto a spiral.
6 Push the spiral off the fork into the centre of a 1arge, u'arnred
soup borvl, theu pur sorrre cuculnber strips on top. I\epeat u''ith the
other bor,vls.
7 Using a slotted
poaching liquid and arrange them neatlv rround the pasta. Bring the soup back to the boil, spoon
it over the
46 SOUPS
Cucumber gazpacho
Orue oF ouR Mosr popuLAR soups. WE sEnve rHts cHtLLED,
AS
lr
ts
nlso GooD
sERVED
1 whole cucumbers 200m1/7JI oz/% cup double cream 100g/3%oz grated;fresh horseradish or about
FLAKED cRne. THe MAIN FLAVoUR oF THE CUCUMBER IS ACCENTUATED BY THE INCLUSION OF HORSERADISH. FResH HoRsrRADrsH cAN BE FouND rN soME spEcrALrry cREENGRocERS
cAVrAR, PRAWNS
oR cooKED,
oR
you cAN
you wtll
NEED
To
srART
MAKTNG
and chiues
cheese
I 2
a teaspoon.
and set
with chop half of the cucumber into fine dice for the garnish; cover aside in the refrigerator.
sea
cucumber half into thin slices, then marinate for 2'[ hours in a large bowl with thevegetable Nage, cream, fresh horseradish or horseradish relish and half the herbs.
4 ln a food processor or liquidizer, pur6e the mixture until smooth (you may have to do this in rwo batches), then pass the pur6e through
a fine sieve set over a large bowl, rubbing wooden spoon. about a cupful of the pur6e into the mascarpone until it becomes smooth, then blend rvith the rest of the cucumber pur6e. Adjust the seasoning, adding a good squeeze of lemonluice. Stir in the creamed horseradish. Chill the soup for at least 6-8 hours before eating.
5 whisk
with the
SOUPS 47
IS
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
800m1/1 pint 5Jl oz/3% cups Chicken Stock
(page 18) orVegetable Nage (page 13)
WITH PHEASANT
,: . if, WrrH A sAUTE oF MUsHRoovs. HrnE I Hnve re,rrN A Rusrlc . i .r\D ADDED THE SOPHISTICATION OF FOIE GRAS AND RAVIOLI OF
- ':.r ooN't FEEL LIKE MAKING RAVloLl (srees 5-6) rHEN SIMPLY ' .',:rH slrcED, snurEeo MUsHRooMs. VecrtnRtlNs cAN usE
juice of % lemon
50ml/2J1 oz/% cup oliue oil
100g/ 3%oz shallots,Jinely slircd 7 Bouquet Garni (page 18)
.:-.
NncE
TNSTEAD
FolE GRAs.
,.i
': :irc
trimming
FORTHE RAVIOLI:
150g/5oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)
150g/ 5oz fresh cipes or a mixture of brown
mushrooms, shiitakes and oyster mushrooms
'-:
..[lcepxn,heat the oil and gently saut6 the artichoke slices and
:.:l.rer with the Bouquet Garni, until the vegetables are golden
:.. caramelize
-' -
:ire pan with the white wine and, when it has evaporated, pour
50g/2oz/%
it though
teaspoons water
r:
::::.h and finely chop the remainder. Melt the butter in :::c slices quickly, remove from the pan and
reserve.
Add the
--:.\ or mushrooms to the pan and saut6 until softened, about 5 \ -:ion rvell, mix in the chervil, drain, cool and chill. Shape the
: :.- (r balls and set aside.
a pasta
'
in
each
to
:.:hod see page 29.) Blanch and refresh in iced water (page 28).
cream until
:..'k the
seasoning. a pan
little water and the knob of butter. . .rr into warmed bowls, place a ravioli in the centre of each and : :rc ravioli in with
a
SOUPS 49
*omato
'
'.
INGREDIENTS (for 5)
-iE cLEAR, BRtcHT lreuto.Wr rHEN GARNtSH wtrH JULTENNE '_:J DES MORT5 MUSHROOMS AND TOYNTO CONCNSSE. YOU ::i/E
.', THIS coNsoMME cHILLED, oMITTING THE RAVIoLI, AND
FINELy
rH
otcto
ro
MAKE
(srees 7-8),
A GooD usE
cloues garlic,
thinly sliced
1 teaspoon each sea salt and sugar 1 teaspoon each chopped basil, tarragon
and cheruil
'
1 litre /
1%
- ilb
-.:.rc. salt, sugar and chopped herbs. rr \\'.rter and bring to the boil. Skim to clear the surface using
egg uthites
,,r- ladle,
with a large piece of wet muslin or a clean, old tea ',:.1 it over a large pan. Pour the liquid through the colander, , :: on the vegetables with the back of a ladle to exrract as
.rrrder
. .,' ..
possible. Discard
50g/2oz basil
leaues
egg
pinch
o;f
salt and
::rc renraining tomatoes with the basil and tarragon stalks, egg : -',rlrercorns
1
teaspoons water
oyster
..:rril the stock becomes clear. Line the colander again with the
jne julienne
, 'rock. Cool down the consomm6 again as quickly as possible. : rl.rc basil ravioli for the hot version, have ready the home.)or-rqh. Pur6e the basil leaves with
just
a touch
of olive oil to
L.:rq
:o
chi11.
:irr il:.li
,:r:
i];.
50 SOUPS
I Roll
va1s,
out the
Pasta
Dough
as
thinly
as
so that the dots form neat, lengthways rows down one half of the
Brush in between the dots carefully r.vith the beaten egg wash. Fold over the unglazed half of the sheet and press together the rows of ravioli
with your fingers around the dots of fi1ling. IJsing the end of a plain
2cm/%in piping nozzle as a clltter, cut out as many ravioli
|
as
you can'
0 Bring
10 seconds. Plunge into cold water to arresr their cooking, then drain and
set aside.
Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and saut6 the mushrooms until
l2
if you have
made them. Spoon into warrned soup bowls and garnish with the julienne
3 To
briefly, and serve as a garnish together with the Tomato Concasse and
the herbs.
- BRoccoll'
SIMPLE'
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
2kg / 4%lb broccoli heads
AND IT IS REASSURINGLY
1,5
EtTHER
wlrH Dors
oF
6-9 AND I
l)
NrsH, MAKE QUENELLES (enCr 173) rnom THE GOAr'S CHEESE MlxruRE
PALE GAR-
FORTHE RAVIOLI:
150g/5oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)
I Trim
you The
75g/3oz
soJt
2crn//in or
so.
salt.
teaspoons water
SOUPS 5I
.:'ut
: :.rr )-3
li
. :. .lll lmporfant
al
: :irc tlorets in
,
of
once or
w1
';r.rpe down the sides. Continue until you have a rea1ly silky, .:.:rtlingly bright green pur6e.You may find this easiest to do in
-:r three
{h*]
|
:::
-.-,
t
nr{
rrh a little more of the reserved water then pass the pur6e
: :rrrc sieve. Set aside to cool, together with the remainder of the
,..1tcr.
ro11
t
!
G; *r
.:'
".-r:r{ the ravioli, have ready the homemade Pasta Dough and
,,-t ,llavioli,
::',: goat's cheese and mascarpone together until smoothly blend-':oorr into a piping bag fitted with a plain Sn'nt/%in nozzle' Pipe
".. -
lrrge
I
,e,
&u
. :hin pastry- or paint brush, brush in between with the beaten :::sn tbld the other half of the dough over, aliowing it to fall over
I
Aaf i
'-rclrrred goat's cheese mixture. - :::. cnd of a2cm/%jn plain piping nozzle as a cutter, cut out the : I-he action of pressing down with the nozzle seals the pasta
and set aside' --:ircr. Using a palette knife, scoop up the ravioli ' :'::r)r to serving, bring the broccoli pur6e to the boil and slowly . ::: rhree-quarters of the reserved cooking liquid, then mix in the
r|
sri
ll
::ik the seasoning and consistency. If you want a thinner soup, '. rirhe reserved water. Keep the soup hot. :,' rhe ravioli into a pan of rapidly boiling salted water and - :::L'nr ior just 20 seconds. With a slotted spoon, remove the ,::.i Flx6s in warmed soup bowls. Ladle over the hot soup and
::::.1i.rtely.
-K
mosf
inJTuential
part of a meal. It
it
'ut
coutrse
will
be euen better.
,\ly personal fauourites as starters dre light ;fish or uegetable terrines (or, rt.f'cr to call them, mosaics). Take the SalarJ o;f Sautied Langoustine and
,l ^lubergine (pog, 54): this is a cleuer dish
slices sprinkled
with
;itt
'\[y srmmer-style
yest
It
Itrs combined
trr
loue making
slice
turn them out and cut the first n'ltat will it look like? what picture will it create on the olate?
54 STARTEl\S
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
about
COOKING: THE SPECTACULAR PINK COATING OF THE FRESH PAN-FRIED LANFRoM THE sMALL GREEN
tPagt lo1
15 Candied Aubergine
Slices (pa,ge
180)
oN A RrNc oF
FRESH
2
1
sprigs chervil
DELTCATE
r4ouND
or Mrxro Snrno
Lrnves.
Furl oF
FLAVoUR AND A
CAN BE
PREPARED
WITHOUT THE
2
2
COATING IF NECESSARY.
I 2 3
Have ready the Basic SaladVinaigrette ancl set aside. Also have ready the
of chervil
and
To make the ProvenEal sauce, chop the skinned tomato into fine dice
and rnix rvith the olives, basil, trrragon, lenron juice artd seasoning. Transfer to a snrall saucepan and heat until just 'uvartn but uot hot.
4 5 6
in the lobster'coral'.
tor've1s.
Heat the oil until hot and fry the langoustines for about 2 minutes, strrDress the Mixed Salad Leaves
To
To ouR
GREEN SALAD
ring r-rntil lightly cooked and bright pink. Drain on kitchen paper
2rrranlle
woN'T
Do.
We
OAK
use
A MrxruRE oF RocKEl
FRrsEE,
LEAF,
PICKING OFF AND USING ONLY THE YOUNG TENDER ARE GENTLy wAsHED, spuN lN
sauce around the salad, then place eight langoustines on each plate, arrang-
ttps.Turse
SALAD sptNNER
Aubergine Slice
AND
STARTEI{S
55
Roasted scallops
with
ginger cream
pint/2
cups Fish L'tlourl (pa.gc 111
: 3i5T SCALLOPS ARE THOSE THAT ARE HAND PICKED BY DIVERS RATHER .'. DREDGED, As rHEy ARE FREE FRoM GRtr. Mlre suRr rHEy ARE .--Y CLOSED WHEN YOU BUY THEM, AS THIS SHOWS THEY ARE REALLY -. Arrloucg you ooN't NEED THE coRAL FoR THts REclpE, oott't - -: IT AS IT CAN BE DRIED AND GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER AND . rs A FLAVoURTNG FoR Rtsorros AND sAUcEs (ence 56).
..'r'eady the FishVelout6 and the Fish Stock.Add the ginger to the
.
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
009 / 3 %oz
2
1
rahlcspoons
tulrirt rt'in,
cup doublc crcnrn
for
it out, returning
80ml
/3fl oz/|4
c
o-f
to
.(4rl( c:
ltnton
juirt
: the fennel, shallots and half the oil in a frying pan, heat r-rntil siz:lr.'r'r cover and lower the heat.Allow the vegetables
5 prepared sta|lops, cach u,eighing dbout 259/102, halued lengrhways (page 40)
sea salt
to slveat gently
'irt
12 minutes
until softened;
:!re vegetables
to colour.
raise the heat slightly and cook, uncovered,
: in the r'vine,
until it
has
it
has reduced
by about
: rr the cream and cook for a further 3-'l minutes.Transfer the nrix' ' r tood processor or a liquidizer and blend to a soft pur6e. Return ).ln to keep warm and season to taste with lemon juice :ind salt. :: gently reheating the gingered FishVeloute. . tirlng pan. he:rt the remaining oil until ahnost srloking and add
.,iops, piacing thern
in
..rve! spoon the fennel puree in a nert round in the centre ofeach
-.i soup plate. Place three scallop halves onto each circle ofpur6e.
approaches
..,u have a good foam, then spoon the sauce around the fennel pur6e.
::rrnrediately.
56 STARTERS
DELICIOUS FLAVOUR
Slice each coral in half and remove anv dirt. Place on a baking sheet
lined r,vith non-stick baking film. Set the oven to its lorvest telrperature.
abor-rt 80-10(fC/175-225"F,/Gas
Mark Z.
lf
pilot light
r"rse
for arvthing betrveen 8-16 hor-rrs or until rlrel .rre drrk pink rnd quitc britrlc. Iher .lrotrld'n.tp rvhett ther ale rcrdv. lf tlrey dorr't \n.lp. rcturlr rhcrt to tltc ,,rcn. l('stirrg rr itttervJls.
Leave the corals
in the
oven
until thev do
snap.
frn
.rr
porvder. (This
58 STARTERS
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
%
(page 101)
AND
pinch
oJ
salfron strands
I 2
Have ready the Aubergine Caviar andVegetable Nage and set aside.
Shel1 the langoustines, then make a lengthways split
in
each, without
a
flleted into;four
sea
butterfly
if
necessary,
3 4
Crush the saffron strands over the red mullet fillets and rub in well.This
flavour.
TO GARNISH: 3
tablespoons Vegetable Nage (page 13)
leaues
Blanch the basil leaves briefly in boiling water then plunge them into
iced water. Mix with theVegetable Nage and pur6e in a food processor or
12 Candied Aubergine
a warm place.
Slices (page
180)
5 6
Lltes
Just prior to serving, heat through the Aubergine Caviar, check the sea-
heavy-based fryrng
side. For the
pan and lightly saut6 the mullet and langoustines. For the mullet, allow 2
langoustines, allow
in a mound
in the centre and stack the mullet and then the langoustine on top. Pour a little of the basil sauce around each mound, arrange six potatoes on the
sauce and garnish each potato
&d$$#n&$&d$#s #"fl
psw ee g
Kr#
Kw
S w sK M
#ww
50 STARTERS
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
12 .fiesh, prepared oysters (page
LIGHT,
36)
enrrrn ts
BEsr MADE
wtrH
oz /
RESULTS,
ALTHoUcH
THE RISING
TAKE
LITTLE LONGER.
FORTHE BATTER:
To make the batter using fi'esh )reast, creanr it rvith a little of the rnilk
a paste.
until it forrls
u,arnrcd
until
tepid
blend yeast, stir the dried yeast streiqht into the flour and rdd a good pinch
of
salt.
Whisk
ir.r
pinth of solt
1 teaspoon bt:er
airing cupboard) and leave until risen and fi-othy. This will prob:rbly take about
Meanrvhile, make the s:ruce. Have read,v the Vegetable Nage. Saut6 the
200m1/7fl
1 medium
'1
o://
re
d pepper, cored
looks svrupy. Stir in theVegetable Nage, bring to the boil and simmer for
5 Discard the sprigs of herbs and the ba1 leaf, then pr-rlcc rhc vcqetables in a food processor or liquidizer. Rr.rb the pr.rr6ed sauce through a fine
sieve
)nl / 2fl
oz / % Lup oliue
oil
tt:aspoons
uhite wine
uinc,qar
sauce
dou,'n
for a feu' l.ninutes until it has a good coating consistenc-v.Add the remarn* ing teaspoon ofvinegar. Season to taste and set aside.
TO SERVE:
2009/7oz Mixed Salad Ledues (page 51)
6 7
Prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves, season and dress r,vith tsasic Salad
\/i" .h^ (qlrLrs - '-L plJtc-. ilr Llrq \ ilrJrqtcttq. tlrclr prJrc 'i.'.-tr- rh-^--"-- ur ^a qJLlr ^1 ^l '-- i"
Pat the oysters dry and sprirrkle rvith a little flour. In a deep
fifing
pan
it
until
Using your fingers or a rvooden sker,ver, dip the oysters into the batter
as
into the hot oil and fry for about 2 rninutes on each side or rlntil golden
and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper towels.
Spoon the sauce around the Mixed Salad Leaves then arrangc the or-ster
ar.vay.
beignets on the sauce. Scatter over the chopped herbs and serve straight
STARTERS
--:
RESTAURANT TRADE
tr
ro
oR.DER
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
2009/7oz Mixed Salad Leaues (page 54)
12 medium to large courgetteJTowers
about 500m1 /18J1
sea salt
--,'.:
:
AT
euAlrry
cREEN-
KlrcHEN
GARDENERS
oz/2
.:3SE
FORTHE BATTER:
59/%oz Jresh yedst or :l% teaspoons dried,
easy-blend yeast
iI.-ER
FOR DIPPING
it with
processor.
If using
easy-
1 teaspoon beer
milk and the beer, beating until smooth. in a warm place (such
as an
x quantity
'::
.::
will probably
take
Dijon
ntustard
] . a
',l:.rnrvhile, prepare the Basic SaladVinaigrette and beat in the rnus:.. \ct aside. Pick over the salad leaves, discarding any thick stalks and
-::rq leaves into small delicate pieces.
-., prepare the courgette flowers, snap off the little courgettes. (Don't
:: J
each
'..'r gently at its stalk end. Pick out, and discard, its inner stamen. ',\'hen the batter is ready, in a deep frying pan heat the oil until it reach-
. :cnrperatlrre of about 175"C/350"8 or until a cube of day-o1d bread -::. crisp and gold in under 30 seconds.
6 I)ip
the florvers one at a time into the batter, coating them well and
::rrng off the batrer just be[ore you fry. Dip and fry abour 3-4 at a rime
.: cook for about one minute on each side, or until golden and crisp. -:rn on kitchen paper towels and sprinkle with sa1t.
".rnds in the centre of each dinner plate. Trickle the remainder of the -...ing in circles around the salad then arrange the beignets on the sauce
--,;-^ .)\\ ^^-L sefvlng. lllS rL--^ LllrCC f^* lOr CAr'n
STARTERS
63
-.f
* r
d4
. ;a56141 occAs|oN TERRINE, IDEAL FoR Cun|srmRs WHEN FAT] 'CKS AND FRESH FOIE GRAS ARE MORE READILY AVAILABLE.WE USE
: r-HER THAN GOOSE FOIE GRAS BECAUSE tT tS LESS EXPENS|VE AND
terrine for 2
8- | 0)
legs
} '- _ABLE FOR A TERRINE. FRESH FOIE GRAS GENERALLY NEEDS TO BE , i:: iN ADVANCE FROM SpECtALtTy BUTCHERS, ALTHOUGH A FEW ..3P5 MAY SOMETIMES HAVE IT IN STOCK. GOOSE FAT CAN BE -- .ROM SPECtALtTy SHOPS, BUT yOU MAy HAVE SOME SAVFD FROM "*: -r cHoppED
NEED
1 sprig rosemary
$ 6A"
melted
or
loose
;foie gras
with the
sea
' .
-,,ed from the thyme and rosemary sprigs. Cover and set aside in j.rrror for 2 hours to a110w the flavours to permeate. preheat the
'i
/ 325"F,/Gas Mark 3.
:irc duck legs in a small roasting pan or cast_iron casserole, then ::ir rhe melted goose or duck fat.Wet a iarge sheet of greaseproof :..i crumple it over and around the duck legs to hold them sub_
over a medium heat and bring the fat ,:i.Transfer the pan carefully ro rhe oven. Cook for 1%-2hours or
'
:.e:tt is meltingly tender and starts to fall off the bone. Remove heat and leave the duck to cool in the fat.
.::,r'hile, remove the foie gras from the refrigerator about 1_2 hours :-:cparatlon, to soften, so they are easier to handle. Carefully
lobes of each liver into 2 halves and, using a small sharp knife, . :hc membrane and central vein, making sure you don,t damage the
:lc
-: r'ou like, check for any blood spots and pick these out too.This is '.::rral, but the rerrine will look better when it is sliced. Repeat with
'
Lay the foie gras in a deep roasting pan. Season ,.r and pepper and sprinkle over the port, Armagnac and Madeira.
:() nlarinate
for I hour.
.::$*r
64 STARTERS
to
will
seep
out, which you need to save. Gently remove the livers and set aside.
with some
into slices abost 1,cm/'/'tn thick. Layer in the tin along with the duck pieces, pouring a little of the saved foie gras fat between
each layer and finishing
gras.
9 Cut a sheet oF foil or greaseproof paper to fit the rop o[ rhe tin exactly. Lay it in position. Place measuring weights or small cans on top.
The pressure should be light but even. Leave the terrine in the refrigera-
firm enough to slice. | 0 Rerrrove the foil or paper. Melt a little of the remaining foie gras fat and spoon some of this on top of the terrine to seal it completely. Chill in the refrigerator until set. | | To unmould the terrine, run a hot knife blade round rhe inside of the
set and
loaf tin and invert onto a flat board or platter. Lift away the tin and remove the lining paper.To serve, cut into 2.5cn/1in slices.Accompany the rer-
rine with a crisp green salad and offer slices of warm brioche toast.
STARTERS
65
ached oysters in
-R
SUBLIMELY SIMPLE DISH SERVED
watercress sauce
IN THEIR OWN
HOMEMADE
OYSTERS POACHED
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
200m1/7fl oz/'.4 cup FishWloutt (page 14)
2 0 0g
S iHEN
.r-ELLE.
WITH
WATERCRESS VELOUTE
AND
lr vou ooN'r
HAVE TrME
To
MAKE
youR owN
TAGLTATELLE,
7 o
29
) or ;fresh
:^\
ready-made
bunches)
and homemade Tagliatelle, if using, and set aside. and discard, then wash the leaves
10;fresh oysters
lc r :he thick stalks o{f the watercress , -'r rhree changes of cold water.
tb,:.i.r
3-4
pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the watercress for 3-
in a cloth to
dry.
l* r :ood processor or liquidizer, blend the watercress to a smooth, fine : :jJing a little of the FishVelout6 to loosen the mixture if necessary. ?:i the FishVelout6 to the boil then stir in the watercress pur6e. Pass
";:-s through
a sieve, rubbing
iil;.-h the
homemade Tagliatelle
barely
:-::e then drain. Plunge into very cold water to refresh and drain .:eps 9-10, page 28). If using ready-made, follow the pack instrucrst aside.
t
t,:::
L,
rhe oysters (page 36), reserving their juices and tipping these into
lrn. Discard the flat shells. Scrub the rounded shells clean and pat r;,.on five small mounds of rock salt onto each plate and sit an oys-
*:--
on each.
a
little of
:r:r.rred Tagliatelle into each cleaned oyster shel1. Keep warm. F,;-h the oysters in their own juice cooking for about 2 minutes then
:r s rhem from the juice
with
!(:hcat the
sauce
::-
o\-sters. Garnish
STARTEl{S 67
IN
'.
tN GRenr BnTntNANDTHE
USA-A
TERRINE ls -- t'4EAT THAT ts EASy ro PREPARE : CF THE MOST POPULAR STARTERS AT THE AUAENCINT. SENVE WITU N ,::\ SALAD AND GLAZE EACH SLICE WITH A LITTLE TRUFFLE-FLAVOURED ,: OIL. FOR TgC RABBIT, BUY A WHOLE, SMALL, DOMESTICATED ONE'
,
2 bay
leaues
1 sprig thyme
, :RING
J
10 whole coriander
seeds
'T
GOOD-QUALITY FREE-RANGE
' :<rN.You wtLL NEED To srART THE MosAtc ::rrt make the rabbit
A DAY oR so lN ADVANcE.
2
confi.t: preheat the oven
to
180"C/350"F/
FOR THE TERRINE:
\lark 4.Joint the rabbit by cutting offthe legs and saddle; there is no : to keep tl-re rib cage or neck, which can be discarded. .rce in a ovenproof casserole. Heat the goose fat to boiling point
'
l,our
it
seeds,
Cut out
.'ct of greaseproof
(r've
.:role exactly. Place this on top of the fat so that the meat is held
..rrh the
in
shape, stubbed
raper it
rltoppcd rlttvcs
de
t.ook in the oven for about 12 hours or until the meat is very tender.
.'.e to cool
250g/9oz pdtt
sea
foie
grds,
fat then remove, scrape off excess fat, herbs and spices,
in large
:::e of fat, veins and sinews. If you 1ike, strain the fat and store it in the ''rserrtor for further use. It will keep for a good few months.
i:or the terrine, boil the Brown Chicken Stock until reduced by about
..r-to concentrate the flavour. Set 250m1/9fl oz/1 cttp aside in a saucepan
: the potatoes.
Heat half the butter in a frying pan and saut6 the cabbage quickly until
and
.,:-'i:: -iii"
r:,:
a::
,:: ',::
:ij
-::l
,:: ,
:i' .,
,::i
i::,.,i:
il,t-:i.
::
::: t::'
68 STARTERS
you wtLL
HAVE
ABoUT
HALF THE
BE
as
about
10
minutes. (At the restaurant, we 'turn' these before cooking, that is, we cut them into equal*size barrel shapes; but this is optional. As long the pota-
To
To
pntpene
ttls
FAT
toes are 1ong, rather than round, and roughly the sarne size
about
5cn/2in - the terrine will look good.) Drain, set aside and cool. 8 Bring the remaining 500m1/18fl oz/2 crps of Brown Chicken Stock to boiling point. Meanwhile, if using leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in icecold r,vater for at least 5 minutes or until softened, then squeeze out the
water..W'hen the stock has boiled, stir
covER
wtrH cLtNG
FILM.THE
coN-
A GOOD
MONTH, AS LONG AS
FAT.
in the leaf gelatine until dissolved. If using geiatine crystals, sprinkle directly into the just-boiled stock, stlrring briskly until clear. Mix the chives into the stock, then set aside to cool
pre[erably over ice
just
starts to thicken.
9 Using a 7.I litre/2 pint/5 cup loaf tin, pour a little of the setting jelly in the base, and sprinkle in a little of the cabbage and mushrooms. Lay pieces of rabbit lengthways down the tin, placing potatoes and strips
of foie gras in between. Pour over well distributed.
l some.1el1y,
are
Add further layers of cabbage and mushrooms, then jelly, rabbit, pota-
toes, foie gras and more je1ly, pressing the food down beneath the layers
3el1y.
of
it
the tin lightly on the work surface to release any air bubbles. Place carefu1ly in the refrigerator and leave overnight or until the terrine is set and
firm enough to
|
slice.
To turn out the terrine, dip a palette knife in boiling warer and run
it
around the insides of the tin to loosen. Dip the base into a bowl of vcry
hot water and count to 10. Invert the mould onto a flat board or platter
and give
the tin again for 10 seconds and repeat the process with
For ncat slices. cur wirh an elccrric carving kni[e. or a long serrared knife.
STAI{TERS
69
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
3
'1
(pa.qe
19)
legs
AND
FREEZE
2
- ,.lv the Basic SaladVinaigrette and set aside.
200m1/7fl
3 009 /'1
oz/tl
rth a knob of the butter. Saut6 the rabbit legs until lightly
..1 over.
' j
.
tl'orn the oven and allorv to rest for 5 minutes. Cut each leg
::'.,r,rqh the
joint, then remove the meat from the bones and cut it
season
lc.
' .: heads of chicory into strips, from top to bottom. Heat a quar. r'cunining butter in a pan and lightly saur6 the strips, sprinkiing .rlt and sugar. to soften, after about 3 minutes, remove them . ',..rn and n'ipe it out with a kitchen paper tor,vel. Return the pan
:r
rl-re
strips start
in the
cream.
: rhe cream to the boil, return the chicory strips to the pan and ' : rbout one minute until reduced dor,vn by about ha1f. Set aside. . the mushrooms in fhe renrainjng butter for about 5 minutes ::. -just softened. Remove and toss in another third of the
rrg vinaigrette.
'tsrr'1or
sa1ad.
Spoon
.:.hlooms on top of the chicory and the rabbit pieces on top of the
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
%
ANDsERVEDwITHTENDERBABYVEGETABLESLIGHTLYINFUSEDWITH
SAFFRON COURSE
(page 1011
DRESSING. EXCTITTNT AS
FIRST
6 large dark
200m1/7Jl
plum
tomatoes
IN
oz/l
I 2 3 4
Have readl' the Aubergine Caviar and set asideSkin rhe romatoes by dipping briefly in boiling water so that the skrns
slip otT easily. Cut each into qllarters and cliscard the seeds'
in 3
tablespoons
1 teaspoon of the balsan'ric vinegar and half the herbs, for about 2 hours. lrrepare all the vegetables by peeling or trimrning. Bring the renr:rinder' of the oil and vinegar to the boil, then add all the baby vegetables, the FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH:
remaining herbs, and the crushed coriander seeds and safTron strands. Remove {r-ont the heat and leave to infuse, turnir}g oncc or trvice. r.rntil
coo1.
into qudrters
I I
bab1, ottittns
baby carrots
leeks,
Drain the tottratoes, reserving the marinacle. Use the tonatoes to lirre the base and sides of tr,vo ramekins. Spoon in tlie Aubergine oaviar, press-
4 bdby
into Jbur
chi11
a11or'v
it to settle.
Tb serve, unmould a tian into the centre of each plate ancl spoon over
I I
babl'
t11Y11iPt
asparagus trps
seeds,
the reserved tolrato marinade to glaze. Prepare the Mixed Salad Le:rves and place small n.rounds on top. Drain the baby vegetables from therr
marinade, arrange them around each tian tl'ren trickle over a little of the marinade to garnish.
6 cttriander
1 good
tushed
STARTERS 7I
Salad
I
]
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
'y'
x quantity
..:
cRETTE.
ro
ALLow
juice of 7 lemon
12 coriander seeds, uushed
1 I'.:HED
":
!
TO GET HOLD OF
BUY
2 star
anise
1 teaspoon each oJ thopped basil, cheruil and chiues 100g/3%oz baby carrots 100g/3%oz baby leeks
-:.SIZED CHUNKS,
'.
' :::c
-. .rll the vegetables apart from the Mixed Salad Leaves, leaving : ,ir and lighdy peeling or scrubbing as necessary. Bring a large
::.1 rvater to the boil. Blanch ail the vegetables together for just
'::. rinring fror-n when the water returns
.: ro do in
a blanching basket.
in the
. ,:c the Mixed Salad Leaves and lightly dress with a little of the
.: \'inaigrette. Arrange the vegetables prettily around the salad.
,iappe (coat)
. .r'rd
:prinkle
r the remaining
he
72 STARTERS
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Wgetable Nage (page 13) at
wtTH A cOURr-gourLLoN oR vectrnglE NncE sluce nruo Tolnro CoNcnssr. Fon n MAIN couRsE, wE sERVE THls wlrH A wARM Tovnro nruo BnstL Tnnr (nnce 75), nru totn I rtRsr CAME AcRoss tNPnnts.loenllv,UsEsMALLREDMULLETSFoRTH|SDIsH'soTHEY sucH MATCH THE sARDINEs lN slzE. You wtll- NEED To ALLow oNE
AND CUT MULLET PER PERSON. AITTNNNTIVCLY, BUY TWO LARGER MULLETS EACH INTO
Court-bouillon (Page 1 6)
into
fllets
8 basil
leaues
AND
2-3
pin bones using tweezers. Place in a shallow pan or deep frying pan
Pour over the Vegetable Nage or Court-bouillon, bring up to the boil then leave the mullets and sardines to cool down' while stil1 in the liquid'
co1d, remove the fish carefully and chill. Strain the vegetable Nage or court-bouillon then add half the basil leaves and leave to infuse.
4 when
Vegetable Nage
or
the
To serve, arrange the mullets and sardines in the centre of chilied plates. the Strain thevegetable Nage or Court-bouillon through a sieve, reserving Tomato concasse, and use to glaze the fish. Sprinkle the Tomato concasse and julienne of basil all around. Finally, drizzle over the olive oi.l.
s s 3,,'*X g i:
STARTERS
75
oz
/% cup basil
julienne strips
100m1/3%oz/% cup oliue oil
:::::r'Zin. Cut out four 1.0crn/4in circles, prick them with a fork
' i :o rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. ' r: rhe oven to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark T.Place
for 5 min-
:::rove the top baking sheet. turn the discs over using a palette
'
a further 5 minutes.
'.'. the top sheet completely and bake the circles once again until
::re tomatoes by dipping them briefly into boiling water then slip::' :he skins. IJsing a sharp knife, cut into very
:::.1toes
thin
slices,
slices. Arrange
building
each
'.::sie half of the basil over the tarts and drtzzl.e over half the oi1. -:: :o the oven and bake for a further 6-7 minutes, glazing every 2
',.
rvith a little more of the oil. Remove from the oven and drizzle
.:-rrning
p,i;i
;=
;i:
:
-''
..'
-!.
i,
all
'ii,r/ to the effort you haue inuested, You can change your rauioli
,:i-fillings and risotto Jlavourings as you do your clothes, according to
tttd to your mood.You willfind the bdsic method;for mdking Pasta Dough
ISrtilding Blocks chapter (page 27).
Rauioli and tortellini are uery personal. The secret is to use a uery thin
,,'tt,qh
.'rttly utell sealed to preuent any water from penetrating the pasta coating
.o
the
filling.
With risotto, you must use an authentic t,ound-grained ltalian risotto rice that
ttlone IJano grains are what we pre;fer. Risotto cdn be flauowred with
cheese,
rrpone
Ravioli of
A
RATHER
lo bste
veRy spEclAL LTGHT MEAL AND AN TDEAL usE FoR LoBsrERs wtrH
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
DAMAGED CLAWS, SINCE THE RECIPE REQUIRES ONLY THE LOBSTER MEAT
THAN
pERFEcr pRESENTATIoN
LoBsrER
MEAT, COMBINED
RAVIoLr. Tue
se RnvroLt cAN
BE AssEMBLED
and cheruil
To kill the lobsters, lay them stomach downwards on a board, then pierce
about %
x quantity (200g/7oz)
homemade
firm1y through the cross marks on their skulls with the tip of a heavy, sharp knife. Remove the claws, slit the bodies in half lengthways and clean rhe
insides, removing the entrails and coral. Blanch the body tails and claws in
shell.
Drain, remove the meat from the bodies and claws, then dry with
towel
or kitchen paper towel. Chop into fine dice and place in rhe refrigerator.
50g/2oz/%
stick butter
2 ln 3
100g/3%oz carrots
together the pur6e, the diced lobster meat, the herbs and some seasonirrg.
To complete the ravioli fil1ing, divide the mixrure inro 8 neat, round
balls,
little
sticky. but
it
ro11
out the
Pasta
and cheruil
fil1ed ravioli (steps 1-4, page 29). Blanch and refresh the ravioli (steps 910, page 28), Drain well, cover and
Meanwhile, prepare the vegetable garnish: cur rhe cabbage into fine
rots then cut into fine julienne strips. Saut6 these separately in the remaln-
ing butter until wilted and just softened, and keep warm.
6 7
For the vinaigrette, boii the Langoustine or Lobster Stock until reduced
by about two-thirds. Add the oil and the herbs, rhen ser aside to infuse.
prior to serving, reheat the ravioli in boiling warer for 2 minures then drain. Place a mound of the cabbage in the centre of each warmed
Just
X$3:
t
*.
$l$
:x
,,'.:f
{: :i''
,,i.,
BLENDED
wtrH A
sMALL AMoUNT
oF
MASCAReoNE
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
AN IDEAL GARNISH
FORTHE RAVIOLI:
about %
Pasta
PARTNER FOR
OF
GLOBE ARTICHOKES,
x quantity (3009/10%oz)
Dough (page 27)
so-ft
homemade
AND REHEATED JUsr pRtoR To SERVTNG. Follow THE lNsrRucloNs FoR MAKTNG RAVtoLt oN pAGE 79, ew tNsrEAD oF sHAptNG THE FtLLING tNTo BALLS, ptpE THE CREAMED cont's cHEESE
rN
ADVANcE
200g/7oz 2
teaspoons water
I 2
Have ready the Pasta Dough and Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage, and
FORTHE BOUILLON:
1 litre/1%pints/4%
ups Chicken
For the ravioli, roll out the Pasta Dough (steps 1-2, page 29) then stamp 4
out 72 circles using a 10crn/1in cutter. For the ravioli fi1ling, mash the
goat's cheese
with a wooden spoon to soften, then beat in the mascarpone cheese until smooth. Place in a piping bag fitted with a plain lcn/lin
juice of % lemon
nozzl.e tnd pipe the mixture onto 6 of the pasta discs. Finish making the
5 shallots, sliced
ravioli according to the instructions on page 29, using rhe beaten egg wash to
seal.
12 black peppercorns
Blanch (steps 9-10, page 28) and plunge into iced water. Set
aside.
tdblespoons
as
for the
the shallots and drained along with the peppercorns until the vegetables are
saucepan and saut6
Deglaze the pan with the wine then add the stock. Bring to the boil
then simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave the
vegetables to infuse for 30 nrinutes.
Line a colander with damp muslin or a clean tea towel. Pour the bouilare
lon through twice, or until you have a clear broth. Set aside until you
ready to serve.
To serve, return the bouillon to the boil, stir in the chopped herbs and
check the seasoning. Add the reserved ravioli and simmer very gently to
reheat. Serve immediatelv.
t
I
I
I
t
!
PASTA
AND RISOTTO
8I
Tagliate I le
with truffles
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
2 5 0g /
3,r'ptt nNo suBLtME - WHEN FRESH TRUFFLEs ARE tN sEASoN THERE ,I ."TTLE TO BEAT THEIR EXQUISITE FLAVOUR AND THEIR GLORIOUS PARTrcasHtp
wtrH
FRESH
LtKE
To
usE TRUFFLES
or
fresh ready-made
WILD
T:'{ROOM
SAUCE.
YOU
ULSAcM- loz
lr woulo
MAKE
A DtvlNE
sTARTER.
tablespoons
:'YING
FRESH TRUFFLES
2 0- 3 0g
?{
/%- 1 oz fresh
rnurrle sEAsoN srARTs tN Lnre OcroeeR AND LASTS uruttL MnRcH. ?r-rrtrs ARE vERy EXpENStvE ARouND CHRtstwns,wHEN DEMAND ts HtcH tN
AND
pRtcES
sea
hr.ice,
N.
wtLL
REFLECT
tN
lr,.l.leRy eNo
FreRunRy. lru
tHe nestnuRANT wE
PERIGoRD REGIoN
@NG
SMALL SHAVTNGS AS
ti.35);aNo wE
hc
oF oNE oF
N{SE.YOU MIGHT
TRY
A MANDOLIN
\6TLY,
fi!.tsTlNc
ft/HFTHER BLACK
oRwHtrE,A
PERFECTTRUFFLE
IS,
sHouLD
BE
HtcHLy
PERFUMED
lho.
GENERALLY,
THE SMALLER IT
BE BLEMTSH-FREE AND UNCORED. FtNnllv, BE wARNED - A GooD TRUFFLE ts EXpENstvE, BUT A LtrrLE GoEs r .oNG wly. ONce pURCHASED, sroRE youR TRUFFLE FoR up ro neour 3 nxs rN A BAG oF Rtsorro RtcE tN THE REFRtcERnroR. Nor oNLy DoEs tr rp rHE TRUFFLE AT lrs BEsl tr ALso IMpARTS A HEAVENLy scENT To rur Rrce! THE TRUFFLE FOR WORMS
rtCx
lT SHOULD
I Cook homemade Tagliatelie briefly in boiling lightly salted water for a: nlore than 1 minute. Cook ready-made tagliatelle according to the s"ai instructions. Drain, then toss in the Vegetable Nage or vegetable il.::r. and the cream. Season and keep warm in the pan. t Gently fry the sliced mushrooms in the truflle oil until just tender,
rr..'ut 2-3 minutes, stirring well.
.\rrange the pasta on warmed plates, add the mushrooms and grate or
shave over the truffle. Serve immediately.
i:'-:h'
83
gazPacho
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
% head teleriac
ue.ge
:::
ANEAN INGREDIENTS
RATAToUILLE
.. BE MADE IN ADVANCE, THEN BROUGHT TOGETHER :- WITH A FLOURISH OF DEEP-FRIED CELERIAC SHREDS.
::rclv the
Pasta
Dough and the Tomato Concasse, and set aside' about 5 tninutes until just cooked. Drain and
sea
:ke the tortelloni fil1ing, saut6 the diced peppers' courgette and
FORTHE TORTELLINI:
%
.irr'. either in a large piece of muslin or a clean tea towel. rhe mixture to coo1, then place in a bowl and nrix in the Tomato
Season, then shape
x quantity (1259/15o2)
Dough (page 27)
homemade Pasta
ir rhe spinach until just wilted, then drain and pat dry gently on
,rh. keeping the leaves whole
diced
if
.l
.
r:rtatouille bai1, and wrap each lightly in a spinach leaf. Set aside'
ro11
out the
each
Pasta
1 large basil
strips
into,fine julienne
fill
with
into
leaves
in
r.:rrh'to reduce by half.Add the creatn plus the diced butter and the :'rc again and rub through the sieve a second tinre. Season to taste
:
-
2
2
.r:ide.
- rl-re celeriac and cut into fine julienne strips. Heat tbout
2cnt/ltn
::t.rble oi1 in a deep saut6 pan, then fry the celeriac until golden:. .rnd crisp. l)rain r'veil.
.c'rve, prepare the
Mixed
in the centre of
.:ving
tortellini again for about 2 minutes tl.ren .irrd arrange around the sa1ad. Mix the Tapenade with the t:rblespoon . Finish the sauce gazpacho by rvarr-ning it through thetr spoot'r
dishes. Blanch the
au'ar'.
To
MAKE THAN
sur ltHtNr rr
FTNTSHED
rs
woRTH pERSEVERtNG.THT
rtltttc
A
HERE rs MADE
FORTHE CANNELLONI:
about %
PUREE
OF
RAW
x quantity (200g/7oz)
homemade Pasta
snLyoN.Tue
Dough (page 27) 259/ 1oz fresh, raw salmon, beaten to a purte
100g/ 3%oz Jresh cooked white sab meat
Have ready the Pasta Dough and FishVelout6 and set aside. For the cana
is
50mI/2Jl
oz/'l
Check the crab meat for any minute pieces of shell then beat
it into
the
from their
shells,
juites
reserued
salmon along with the basil, cream and seasoning. Spoon into a piping bag
(page 3 5)
set
4 medium
as
jne
dice
15cm/4 x 6in strips. It is worth cutting out a few extra to allow for mis-
10 seconds then immediately plunge into a bowl of ice-cold water. Draln and pat dry on a clean, dry tea towel.
it
then pipe the filling, widthways, just above the centre. Roll up like a cigar
it is nice and tight.Twist then knot the ends of the cling film to seal; this will hold the filling in place. Place in the refrigerator to firm. Repeat with the remaining sheets and filling. 6 When set, blanch the cannelloni, stil1 wrapped in cLing film, in gently
making sure
For the soup, bring the Fish Velout6 up to the boil. Add the oysters
the scallops and oyster juices. Heat for another 30 seconds then check the seasoning
and poach them gently
and stir in rhe chervil.
seconds; add
for about 30
8 To serve, unwrap
1n
the centre of each warmed soup bowl, spoon over the oysters and scallops
and pour over the soup. Serve immediately.
85
Rtsorro
ts
A DEltctously coMFoRTtNG
DtsH AND,
FORTHE RISOTTO:
500m1/18fl oz/2 cups Chicken Stock (page 18)
orVegetable Nage (page
SERVE.
pnrrrn To
UsE THE
reNnnolr cRAtN oF Rtsorro RtcE, BUT nN ARgoRro on VtnloNe IIINo wILL oo. RIcr SIMPLY LABELLED ,RIsoTTo', WITHoUT A VARIETY rrfiE, wrLL Nor HAVE THE sAME At DENTE etrr. THr METHoD BELow ts IC'| COOKING RISOTTO IN ADVANCE OF SERVING BUT YOU CAN, OF
COJRSE, SERVE
1j)
large
shallots,fnely chopped
IT
A QUICK,
SIMPLE MEAL.
I Pur the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage in a saucepan and bring to *e boil. Set aside. I In a medium saucepan, gently saut6 the shallots in 3 tablespoons of oil irr rbout 2 minutes or until softened. Stir in the rice and cook for a fur{ter f rninutes to seal the rice. t lor in the wine and deglaze the pan. Cook until the liquid has reduced * r svrupy consistency. | \teanwhile, reheat the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage and bring to
* sntle simmer. Add to the rice one ladleful at a time, stirring well and rriirng more stock only when each addition has been absorbed. Cook rr:al just a touch soft, usually about 10 minutes.
259/1oz/%
cheese
FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:
250g/9ozTomato Confit (page 98)
2009/7oz Jresh cipes or chestnut uariety of
mushrooms (champignons de Paris)
t Srrain the rice through a sieve set over a bowl, reserving the liquid for scr use. Spread the rice out on a tray. When it is cool, cover and set it
r^je until
ready to reheat and serve.
cir-.-e
oil in
sides
&.ut
5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside some of the
aedv shaped ones for use as a garnish. Reserve the pan juices. | \t'hen ready to serve, have ready the Tomato Confit. Return the rice to ae saucepan wtth 2 tablespoons of its reserved cooking liquid, stirring *cll. Cook for about 3 minutes, adding extra liquid if the rice looks a
stirring
rcal light and creamy. Check the seasoning. I nota in the Tomato Confit, the cdpes (except those reserved for the prnish) and the herbs.
cdpes,
ir':zle
over the pan juices of the cdpes and serve straight away.
ts
AN
TDEAL REctpE
FoR EXpLotr-
FORTHE RISOTTO:
500n1/18J1 oz/2 cups ltish Stock (page 14) plus a little extra;for reheating
Check the clams and discard any that are opened. Wash the clams in plenty of cold water, scrubbing the shells rvith a snall brush and changing the water two or three times. Drain. Place the
the wine and the bay leaf.
cian-rs
I 2
2 3
large shallots,
jnely
chopped
tablespoons oliue oil plus extra -for seruing rice e.g. Carnaroli,
in a saucepan with
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook the clams for 2-3 minures to
steam them open, shaking the pan once or twice. Remove from the heat and discard any clants that have not opened. Drain through a colander set
FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:
2009/7oz Jresh baby clams
4 5 5
When the clams are cool enough to handle, relnove the meat from the
tslanch the diced peppers briefly
softened,
1 bay lea;f
2
2
fnely
Make the risotto base in the same way as for the llisotto ofTornato
(steps 1-5, page 85) substituting Fish Stock fbr
pty:
whippt:
8 Reheat the
Arrange
in a little stock and add the chives and basil. the risotto in the centre of warmed plates and spoon around
clams
sprigs.
I
the clams. Drtzzle over a little olive oil and garnish with chervil
Serve straight away.
.:'r:
.ri'
iia
1i_.,i'
*-
.ii.t
:iii.il:
-l
,ll l'l
.:::l -,:.
iii:i:
rlri;'
FORTHE RISOTTO:
500m1/18J1
oz/2
cups
Fish
2 3
large shallots,Jinely chopped tablespoons oliue oil plus extra Jor sautbeing and seruing
e.g. Carnaroli,
Arborio or Vialone Nano varietY 5}ml/2J1 oz/% cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon mascarpone
cheese cheese
in half for
use as a garnish
:irem so that they can be incorporated into the risotto. Set aside'
..
the risotto base in the same way as for the Risotto of Tomato ,nd Roasted Cdpes (steps 1-5, page 85) substituting Fish Stock for
FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:
30 baby or 8-9 medium
and wdshed (page 10)
scallops, shelled, trimmed
: .r pan with a little oi1 then saut6 whole or sliced scallops for 1 . r:rch side, diced scallops for no more than 2 minutes, stirring fre,, : set aside.
50ml/2J1
oz//,
::rplgls the risotto (step 7,page 85), adding the mascarpone and the
Mix in the whipped cream and the fresh herbs. Check the sea*. Ii using diced scallops stir them in at this stage. If using .' or sliced scallops, use as a garnish. Serve the risotto on warmed
...rn.
sea
l)rizzTe round a
Jr\-e straight away.
'
.::i
rii: ;i I
i';:t
i:
;ii il
illr t|,i'
92 VEGETABLES
Ft
bratseo
HAVE
salstTy
FrsH.
.e
You MAy
youR GREENGRocER oR MAvBE you 200m1/7fl oz/7,4 cup Fish Stock ALREADv cRow rr rN youR GARDEN.A yucn UNDERVALUED vEGETABLE. 500g/1lb 2oz salsify
To
700m1/1% pints/
I 2
aside.
into a
Wash the salsify well, then peel, top and tail. Place immediately
juice of 7 lemon
1 tablespoon rock salt
saucepan
with the water, milk, lemon juice and rock salt. 3 Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave the salsify to cool down in the rnilky water. 4 Drain, then cut tnto 4crn/1.I/zin bitons or thick julienne strips. Preheat
50g/2oz/% stickbutter
1
sea
Heat the butter in a large, ovenproof frying pan or shallow, cast-iron Add the salsi$r bAtons and fry gently until they start to colour
a
casserole.
little and cararneTize. 6 Pour in the Fish Stock to just cover the
Garni and cook, uncovered, liquid
seasoninE and serve.
has evaporated and the salsi$r has become nicely glazed. Check the
Fr.ll.
r5rarseo cn tcory
WHnr LrrrLE BTTTERNESSTHERE
ByrHts INGREDIENTS (for 4-5 as an COOKING PROCESS,WHICH ENSURES A SWEETISH EDGE.THE BRAISING ALSO accompaniment) clVEs THE cHlcoRY HEADS AN ATTRACTIVE, SYRUPY GLAZE. SrRvr wtrs 200m1/ffl oz/'/' cup Chicken Stock (page 18, sALMoN, LAMB oR RABBtr. or Fish Stock (page 14), to deglaze
rs rN RAw cHrcoRy ts ELTMTNATED
I Have ready the Chicken or Fish Stock and set aside. 2 Trim the chicory ofany bruised outside leaves, then trim the ends and use a small, sharp knife to remove the bitter core at the base of each head. 3 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of
the sugar and salt to taste. Blanch the chicory for 8-10 minutes and drain well.
3 3
juice
about 10 minutes.
VEGETAtsLES
93
- "" \(!ut
^-rueeze \!
aside,
.'-.c frying prn set over.r moderately high hert. melr the burter
:r
hot but not smoking, add the heads and brown evenly for about
.'r n.ith a little stock, shaking the pan gently to coat the
heads.
?t
INGREDIENTS (for 8)
4009/1402 baby onions, ideally siluerskin
159/% oz butter 7 teaspoon oliue oil
..:ST
easier by skins
:.q the onions first in boiling water for one minute. The
:rc.rvy-based, ovenproof .rnd shake the pan well
fiying pan. heat the butter and oil, add the to coat them.
:rkle over the salt,add the bay leaf and thyme. then saut6 the onions
::rediunr heat until they rcquire a pale golden colour. :rkle lightlv with sugar, and cover
with a butter paper or a sheet -'red greaseproof paper. Transfer to the oven. Cook for about 20 litting rhe p:per and turning rhe onion. every 5 mirruter or
'.,.1
-ril the onions are tender in the centre and beginning to caramelize.
5e'1ye'.
94 VEGETABLES
Shallot confit
THrs ls usED tN so MANy
RECIpES tN
tr
IS
woRTH t4AK-
lr
ozll
cup)
coNrtr
DoMES-
HEAT possrBle.
llrouR
METAL HEAT-DIFFUSER.
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
I 2 3
Using a 1arge, sharp, cook's knife, chop the shallots into very fine djcc.
Place
in
a heavy-based saucepan
light sprinkling of
sa1t,
the thyn-re and bay leaf. Set the pan over medium heat until the oil becomes hot, then adjust
shaltots
the heat to its lorvest possible setting and continue to cook the until they
are meltingly tender
jarin the refrigerator.wherc thc confit will keep for up to one week, or, if covered with a layer of olive oi1, for up to a month.
a screw-top
Potato rosti
Pe
Rrrcr
AS
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
859/3oz/% stick butter 500g/1lb 2oz waxy potatoes, peeled
sea salt
AHEAD AND
ETTHER AS
IN A
REHEAT
REeurRED. Cuoosr A wAXy porATo, sucH As MLRts Ptpen oR Prcnsso, THAT wtLL HoLD
TrME
lrs
uslNc l0cv/4rr.r
FRy-
vou ooN't
sAME
rtme.Ttrv
the clear fat into a bowl, leaving behind the milky deposits, which can be
grate the potatoes into long thin julienne strips. Dry the strips by putting them into a clean cloth and squeezrnq hard.Trarrsfer to a large bowl.
VEGETABLES
95
:: \\'ith salt to taste, then mix in the clarified butter. Leave to cool
rrrake the mixture easier
to handle.
, heavy-based frying pan until hot, then stand one or more plain
::crs inside it. Press a quarter of the potato mixture down inside
:rr-to make
::cr and flip over the Rosti with a palette knife. Cook the other
ld
..I
',-.
Potato
pu r6e
POTATOES
TO NEW HEIGHTS! THE SECRET LIES *fOSING A FLOURY VARIETY OF POTATO SUCH AS DESINET OR - 1'.O, CUTTING THE POTATOES INTO EVEN-SIZED CHUNKS FOR
- FTS MASHED
, :ooKtNG,
.. :
AND, FtNALLY,
lN
USTNG
MOULI FOOD-lYlLL OR A
pint/'l
:..c the chunks of potato well beneath cold running water to .: excess starch. Place them in a large saucepan, cover with cold
- r.'id a tablespoon of salt and bring to the boil. Simmer gently until : usualiy 12-15 minutes. Drain the chunks wel1, return the ' i\ to the pan, then set over gentle heat and shake the pan until any
. \\-ater has evaporated.
i^
::r.rtively, use a heavy masher but do not use a food processor, or the
b'*.-/'
otrrerz
., .eparate \aucepdn.
hear.
.itsonlng to
taste.
VEGETABLES
97
)mato concasse
.
SEEDED
AND
AN
INVALUABLE
.. TO MANY OF IYY RECIPES. TOIVNTO CONICRSST IS ALMOST -:-' ADDED TOWARDS THE END OF MAKING A DISH, EITHER STIRRED " :IUCE OR USED AS A GARNISH. USE RIPE, FULL.FLAVOURED PLUM :: wHERE POSSIBLE. : .i snall, sharp
'.::n
slash
lO0gl3t,/zozl
the top of the opposite end to pierce the skin. Place the
.krns start
.l
rrc tomatoes
in half, remove the seeds and inner flesh then chop urto very fine dice. Place in a bowl, cover and set aside in the
:.irl r'equired.
cmato
:
:ooD
"
Pu
ree
INGREDIENTS (makes about 500m1/l pint) 1kg/2'/tb ripe
100m1/3'/,J1
tomdtoes, preferably FRESH FLAVOUR.
IT
IS PARTICU-
plum, skinned
oz/%
up
:{SlL OR
3 shallots, sliced
:_ ADDITIONAL
cloues
garlic, crushed
STORAGE
Tre
runEe
wul
KEEe FoR up
ro 3 on'rs rN A scREw-Top
JAR
:. and garlic fot 3-4 minutes until softened but not coloured.
IN THE REFRIGERATOR, LONGER IF COVERED WITH A LAYER OF OLIVE OIL. IT MAY ALSO BE FROZEN
the tomatoes, Bouquet Garni and herb stalks if using. Cover ::.rnsfer to the oven for about 50-60 minutes or until softened.
:.1
IN
BATCHES OF ABOUI
FoR up
ro 2
MoNTHs.
,r'e the Bouquet Garni and any herb stalks. Blend the tonrato ' :rc to a smooth pur6e in a food processor. Cool and use as required.
98 VEGETABLES
Tomato confit
MAcERATED lN A Low OVEN WITH FRAGRANT OLIVE OIL, GARLIC AND AROMATIC THYME FOR A DELICIOUS GARNISH OR ACCOMPANIMENT.
Drscs
or roMATo
FLEsH ARE
sLowly
in
sliuers
each
tomato, then slash the top of the opposite end to pierce the skin. place the tomatoes in a bor.vl and cover with boiling water. wait a mi'ute or rwo until the skins start to curr, then drain off the water, run the tomatoes under cold water and skin. lor.vest possible setting, around gO"C/ 170"F/Gas Mark Lor'. Harve and seed the skinnecl tomatoes then cut our the inner ribs.
Preheat
Using a round or oval pastry cutter, about 1cm/1.%in in diameter, cut out one shape per tomato half. Lay flat, skinned side up, on a small shal_
low tray and trickle nith olive oil. 4 Scatter over rhe garlic srivers. pick the reaf tips o{r the sprig of thyme and sprinkle over the tonlatoes then place in the oven. 5 Leave for 1-2 hours, brushilrg once or twice with the orive oil, until the
tomatoes have sofrened but stiil hord their shape. Season black pepper, cool, the' rransfer to a dish. cover and
with ground
,a::
l:1,,
,i.rt
ri.. 11.,,
:ii:
I OO
VEGETAtsLES
little balls'
wtrH A
RANGE
oF
Encg BALL
oF
usE
150g/ 5oz Tbrrine of Foie Gras with Canard Conli (pagc 63) or sfttooth liuer pdti
youR owN
CREAMY pArE
teaspottns cream
Blanch the cabbage leaves irr boiling salted r,varer for about 15
secor.rds
sea
until just rvilted, then plunge into ice-cold water to refresh thern and keep the colour.
2 3
Pat dry in a clean c1oth. IJsing a plain 7.5cm/3in cuttcr, cut or-rt .rbout
24 circles from the leaves, avoiding the hard stalks. Soften the mixture of the Terrine of Foie Gras r'vith Canard Confit or
a small, plain nozzle.
liver pit6 and beat in the cream, chervil and seasoning,if liked. Spoon into
a piping bag
rvith
4 Cut off
of cling fih-n large enough to completely wrap one cabbage leaf, about 20cm,/8in lons. Arrange a cabbage leaf in the
a piece centre of the cling film, then put this in the palm of your hand. Pipe about
1 small teaspoon of foie gras or pXt6 into the centre of the leai Draw up
the edges of the cling film rvith the leaf to tnake a ball shape, wrapplng tightly so there are no air-pockets, and tr,visting the excess cling fi1m into
a top-knot. Repeat urrtil all the leaves are
filled and
r.vrapped.
Blanch the leaves in boiling r,vater for 3 ninutes. Drain and, whel cool
Creamed parsley
SrRve ns A GARNtsH FoR PAN-FRIED BEEF FILLETS, oR TRY Frsu
lr wHlsKED lNTo
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
100g/3%oz
creant
about 4 minutes, adding the parsley first, then the spinach 1 minute later'
VEGETABLES IOI
refresh
in cold
water.
To dry the
leaves
.*r:rruqhly, place them in a clean tea towel and wrap up tightly, squeezing ,rrr :li the water.
| -:: .r small saucepan, boil down the cream until reduced by half. I ur.rnrvhile, put the parsley and spinach into a food processor ,*.: rlend to a pur6e. Add the reduced cream and seasoning to taste. ,,, .:. lnd use as required.
Aubergine caviar
ll'-osr rHE IDEAL ALL-ROUND
VEGETABLE ACCOMPANIMENT,
THrs soFTBABY
*id -t!
Ir
IS NISO
A VERSA-
I..TTLE
STARTER.
I I t
Llr- the garlic and rosemary on one half, sandwich with the other. then lJake
'i' Mark %,andbake for a further 20 minutes until the skins have sh.v: ed. the shells have collapsed and the flesh is completely soft. { Unrvrap, scrape out the garlic and rosemary and discard. Scoop ::t the aubergine flesh onto a board. When cool enough to handle,
-:op the flesh very finely with a large sharp knife and piace the pulp in
a
heat, stir the pulp until its excess moisture has evapo-
- or'caviar'-
as
required.
rue always
1n)t
been ;fascinated by
fish
and seafood,
menu, especially
deriued
Jlauours.
choose
When
',onsciously,
fish, perhaps
because,
prefer
fish
d three-week-old brrf
:r'ell-flauoured cowrt-bouillon.
'ttrning, checking meticulowsly
also spend
a lot of
for pin
in cling;fitm
anil
a process
seyued with
-ir of my supplies -fno* Scotland, including Belon oysters with tlteir big, ilark
,'//s, so fresh they are
is
usually lightly
in tuto
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1 litre/1% pints/4% cups Fish Stock (page 14)
7 sea bass weighing just over 1kg/2lb 4oz, -fllleted but not skinned
Itr 'T HAS BECOME OUR SIGNATURE DISH, AND MANY REGULAR CLIENTS n6 TNADVANcETo FtND oUTwHETHER tr ts oNTHE MENU. I rtnsr rxprIFED TTASAN rDEA rN Pnnts,wHrRe rrwAs LoBSTERTHATWAS BErNG |tr.rtD rN PARTNERSHIp wtrH A vANILLA sAUcE. I relr rur FLAVoURS
ffi"ILD ,|r ,TS BEST IN THE AUTUMN. WHEN SALSIFY
Fcgs
SERVE
IS
4009/14o2 saki;fy juice of 1 lemon 50g/2oz/'y' stick butter plws dn extra knob of
irc-cold butter for fnishing the sauce
IS OUT OF SEASON,
SOVE-
PREFER
WHEN IT
{i
TVAILABLE,
Swtss
culRo - AN
A
a'E
@
CHAMproNtNG.Asr youn
FTsHMoNGER
To
Nor
8 whole
baby
-rD sx'rN
rr
rulr I rrre
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
I Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside. I Cut the sea bass fillets into 4'tranches', or neat slices, then very fo6irth' score the skin with a sharp knife. This will help the skin to *-rrntelize during cooking and also prevent it from curiing. If preparing
pcrd. rvrap tightly in cling film (righr).
about
Pepper
Mix
t Strain the Fish Stock through a fine sieve into a saucepan and bring * to the boil. Split the vanilla pod open and scrape the seeds into the
rrx to cool completely and vanilla to infuse, then boil down to reduce by one-third. Remove *hc
stock, followed by the pod. Leave the stock
MAKING FISHTRANCHES:
TntvvtNc AND yET MoRE TRn4tytNG - THts GooD
pRESENTATToN,
FILLETS ts
rHE sEcRET oF
EspEcrALLy
OF FISH
lr rHE
cur
tNTo
it thinly, then immediately drop it into cold crter with a little of the lemon juice added to prevent discoloration. Etrnch in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, drain, refresh in ice-cold *rter and drain again. Pat dry and cut into neat bitons. LVelt half the butter in a saucepan and add a ladleful of the vanillaC.rroured stock. Bring to a light boil, toss i.n the salsify bitons and cook gnril the stock has reduced to a glossy glaze. Stir in one-third of the rmaining butter. The bitons should be lightly coloured; if they are not,
To prepare the salsifii, peel
ABour 7.5
x l0cm/3 x
4rN.
Wup
SHAPE.
IIGHILY
IN
;ook for
tf?gf,fe F$f-i; ?a
s-.F.t
PP s"-s
i'
another third of the butter in a medium pan and cook the fennel until nicely coloured. Add another ladlefur of the vanilla stock ro the
along
6 Melt
'eaf,
2-3 sren
ANIsE AND
ir has sropped foamilg, add the bass skin-side down. Cook for about 3_,1 minutes, then flip the
fillet:
over.
wrap the fish fillets' Heat the o' in a heavy-based frying pan with heatproof or removable handles _ suitable for the oven. I Season the bass with salt, pepper anci the remaining lemon juice. Add the last third of rhe butrer to the pan. When
ro
ro
rlrll
AND
GRTND FRESHLy
the pan to tne oven to cook the flesh side of the fillets, also for 3-4 minutes. The flesh should feei just firrn and lightiy springy, and any liquid should have evaporated. Season the bass with My Special pepper Mix (right).
9 tansfer
their separate pans. Divide the fennel between each warmed plate. put the fish on top, skrn_
side up- Arrange the sarsify bitons around the bass in a circre. | | To finish rhe sauce, add the knob ofice-cold butter and reheat
saucepan' frothing
To make the sauce, reheat the remai'ing van'ia stock and stir in the cream. Reheat the salsify bitons and the fennel in
|
in the
with a Bamix
electric muiti-blentler. Spoon the frothy sauce over the fish and drizzle the remainder lightly over the salsify.
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1
Rro Wrrue
x quantity
Red
Wine
Sauce
(p,tst 2 | t
i/-rrt.i,._.-,,rr;.
l,-{*.lN
SOUru
or
Fnnucr.
180g/6oz Jresh tuna stedks, skirtttct/ 500g/ 1lb 2oz new potatoes, scrrtbbed
I ::-i'c ready the Red'wine Sauce and set asicre.f}im the tuna steaks into :r;' .hapeS if necessary. I .':rboil the potatoes until almost cooked but still firm, then drain and , , Cut into even slices for saut6eing; set aside. t llclt one-third of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan rnith harf the :. iod, when hot, saut6 the onions, sprinkling over the icing sugar and r:-:!.9 occasionally, for about 10 minutes or until caramelized and r jen brown. Remove and keep warm. I iJhnch the beans and asparagus separarery in iightry salted boiiing
water
2 2
2
5
goose
;fat
sea
aside
in a warm
piace.
: ::rl qolden brown and crisp, turning occasionally so they colour evenly. :irn, sprinkle with parsley and seasoning and keep warm. Meanwhile,
Sauce
in
\\/hen you are ready to cook the tuna, heat the duck or goose fat in ::ep-sided frying pan to a meclium heat of about 65"c/160"E or until :re of day-old bread browns in about 1 minure.
be pale brown on the outside, ::,'ely pink inside, and lightly springy to touch. Drain well on (::.hen paper towels.
To serve, arrange a bed of potatoes in the centre of each warmed plate ;::d place a tuna steak on top ofeach. Spoon the onions, beans and aspara_ :-rs around the edge then spoon over the hot Red wine sauce and serve.
? (look the tuna steaks, submerging them under the fat, for :-" minLltes'-when cooked, they shourd
about
wrrH A clAssrc
SIMPLY SEA
BOUILLABAISSE, DORADE,
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
1 u,httle
dor.ade
OR GILT-HEAD BREAM,
IS
IT IS SIMILAR TO
AND
-fiLleted rreatly
.f-eu spri,qs thyme
t./.
in
ttutt
SOMETIMES EASIER
TO
OR BLACK BREAM
I.4AKE
GOOD SUBSTITUTES IF DORADE IS UNOBTAINABLE, IF FILLETING FISH IS NOT YOUR FORTE, ASK THE FISHMONGER TO DO THIS FOR YOU.
about
Trirn the dorade fillets neatlv, then check for a'y fine pi' bo'es ancl rernove these with t\\'eezers. rJsing the tip of a sharp kni't, score trre skin
carefulll.
as it cooks. pick the leaf ,flou.ers,
2-3
off one of the thvnre sprigs ancl scatter over the flesh. Cover and clill. 2 Have ready the potato lrur6e, pesro and Fish stock. Reheat the pur6e and keep warm.Thin do*.n the pesto rvith the Fish Stock a'cl set
tahlespoorrs oliuc
oil
in the flour to coat iigl_rtlr,,. 5 Heat a little of the o'i'a non-stick fi1.ing pan and with the garlic u't'.iust render. Seasor lightly
dr,r' 3t 6 toss
for the \,,e1out6 of Artichokes w-ith Fois Gras (step 2,p.a.ge 47'). 4 Place the flour in a bou4 and seasorr rver1. I)rair the artichoke srices, pat
sar.rt6
aside.
in the
same wav as
10) then
diced
:
2
the artichokes
u,arnr.
sea
the pa' clean using kitclien papel: towels and heat a rittle r'ore the oi1 unril verv hot, then quickly sar-rt6 the diced scallops
should taken no r.nore than
'wipe
trren renro\re
a'd keep
o'
o'. Seasor-r the doracre and then place skin-side dou'n in the hot pan. cook the fish for about 5 mi'ures or u'til a''ost done (it shor-rld be srightil'spring'a'd the skin crisp) rhen turn over and cook the flesh sicle tor about 2 rrinrltes.
M* the chives i'to the potato pur6e and spoo' onto the cent.e of each prate. pour the Iresto arounci the potato a'd spri'kle the diced' fried scatops and artichoke s'ces o'er the sauce. Arrange the fish on top of the potato. ga'rish rvith sprigs of
over the chopped parsle1,. t:rrragon and thvnre, a'c' sprirkle
t:: .
ir:, i,.l
nr
Ln
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Fish Stock (page 11)
%
ruts
Two
DtF-
x rluantity (110g/4%oz)
homemade Pasta
FERENT
ALTHoucH
you coulD
usE GooD
euALlry
READy-MADE
tncltnrellr.
FoR
250g/9oz
29) or
Have ready the Fish Stock, hornemade Pasta Dough and Tagliatelle,
if
1 large cucumber
leaues
out as many cucumber bal1s as possible from the flesh, discarding the seeds. Blanch the balls in boiline u.ater. drain and refresh in ice-cold
water and set aside.
150g/5oz turbot.fiIlets
3 4
Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling water for about 1 minute, or
until just u''i1ted. Drain and refresh in cold water then drain again. Set aside.
and
clt:
ro11
sea
stamp out
oysters
with
a slotted spoon. Allor'v to cool, then use the oysters as a filling for the ravioli. Make sure the edges are well sealed. Blanch the ravioli in salted boiling water for about 1 minute then drain and keep w'arm.
with a slotted spoon and and keep warm. Boil the stock until syrupy
5 7
Stir in the FishVelout6 and return to the boil, cooking for about 2 min-
utes.Add the turbot fillets to this sauce and reheat for a further 2 minutes.
and place in mounds in the centre of each plate. Reheat the cucumber and spinach separarcly in the renraining butter.
I 9
Place the turbot fillets on top of the Tagliatelle and sit a ravioli on ton
pasta.
of that. Spoon the cucumber and spinach around the fish and
Reheat the FishVelout6, season with lemon juice, salt and pepper, stir-
ring in the herbs and any oyster juice just at the last moment. Pour the
sauce over the ravioli and turbot and serve at once.
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
4 x 300g/ 10oz ntonklish fllets, skinned
soJtened hu tter,,for .qrea si np
:CTATOES, BAKED
IN ROUNDS AND
SERVED SIMPLY
-y
CAN SUBSTITUTE A
VERY
- ready the Fish Stock orVegetable Nage. . - sure all the grey merlbrane is removed from the nronkfish as this ,use the fish to curl and cook unevenll-. If necessarr,-, slice it offrvith
FORTHE POTATOES:
250nrl/9_fl oz/ 1 tult Fi,s/r Srorfr (page 14) or
W,getable Ndgc (pdge 13)
sheets
2009/702,
peekd
tktues
-.:lv in flor-rr. Heat a little olive oil in a large frying :le fish all over until just golden brou'n.
:'
each
garlt,
peeled and
jn.ely tholtpcd
fillet in
vL15
Lrr)
a sheet of the paper', ts-istlns the ends to *-^-^r^^--r to the oven for B-9 minutes.
259/1oz/l
TO SERVE:
stick burter
:.c the fish is cooking, slice the potatoes thinlv into rounds about
rn thick. r-rsing either a rnandolin, the slicer blade of a food proces, rharp knife. Place in a borvl, season r,r'e11, then scatter the chopped
.;r11
shallots on top.
:I
in diameter. Brush
-lcs
:.rto slices, together with the shallots and garlic, in overlapping slices
:r paper circle.
.:r over the Fish Stock orVegetable Nage:rnd bring to a simmer on :. of the stove. Dot the potatoes with butter, then transfer the tin to
10 r-ninutes or
cooked,
:lre slices in the stock. the fish is cooked b1' pressing the thickest part of the fillet firm-
; feu minutes
their paper
\\-rrm servrng
Trickle over any juices frorn the potato tin and from the
',rcels.
tprinkle
1en'ron
potrLtoes. :rncl
TAKE
A FULL_FLAVouRro Reo
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1
.
.
-.
: rside.
::: the monkfish fillets neatly, taking care to remove the grey mem_ ,' this could cause the fish to curl ifleft on during cooking. sprinkle
FORTHE RISOTTO:
200m1/7fl oz/% cup Chicken Stock
(page 18)
in the refrigerator. ::::ke the risotto, simmer the rice in the Chicken Stock for about 12 ::. or until it isjust soft, stirring occasionaily. Season and set aside. ..n you are ready to cook the monkfish, preheat the oven to
-125"F,u
1 tablespoon mascarpone
Gas
Mark
7. Heat the
oil in
with
- suitable for the oven. Add the fillets and ::rem for about 3 minutes on one side,then flip them over.Transfer
:ne fish warm.
,:r to the oven and cook for a further 5 minutes or so until just firm.
rrnish the risotto, gently reheat the rice and stir in the cream, ,:pone and herbs, then check the seasoning. Reheat the Red
Sauce.
':'.ron the risotto into mounds in the centre of each warmed plate. cut ,:-.rnkfish into slices and arrange on top of the risotto. ':'tron the sauce around the fish then drizzle round the oil. Garnish
:he Shredded Leeks and serve.
i3 dixl *S $ d: d,
$3i r.:
,ili: :'
:fr$r
tp
,$:
.$,,g,,
S;Y
i,,.
MrorrenRnneAN sEAFooD ts cooKED AND puREED; sEcoND, THE ADDI_ TION OF CHUNKS OF FILLETED FISH SIMMERED WITH SAFFRON-SCENTED porAToEs.A gourLrasntssE ts NorwoRTH MAKTNG tN sMALL euANTtlEs so rr ts TDEAL FoR ENTERTAINtNG. SrRve wrrs RourlLe (pnce 2l).
YOU CAN GET THE APPROPRIATE VARIETIES OF SEAFOOD. THE SOUILLNARISSC IS MADE IN TWO STAGES: FIRST THE BASE, FOR WHICH AN ASSORTMENT OF
INGREDTENTS
(for t2)
seafootl utr,i
choosen
following:
scale,
you buy thern. To prepare the remaining fish for the garnish, scale, gut and trim rhem, removing the heads. Cut into bite_sized chunks. To make the broth, heat the oil in a large saucepan or stockpot and add the leeks, onrons, garlic, tomatoes, Bouquet Garni, fennel, herb stalks and fish sweat the ingredients over a 1ow heat for about 20 mirrures, strrring frequentllr Add the cold rvater' bring to the boil rhen srmner for 45-50 minutes. Remove from the heat and reave to
stand for 20 rninutes flavours to infuse.
lntact but remove gills. prawns can be have their poisonous spines removed 'eft rvhen
cur and trim o{f fins. Keep heads intact. If you obtain weever fish,
1009/ 12
loz
and uushed
to arow the
2kg/{lb 8oz
3
assorted.fish, choosen.from
at
lL.:
4 5
oJ the _following:John
the fish broth through a mouli food_mill or through a large sreve, rubbing with the back of a radre. Discard the bones and other debris. Pour the broth through a fine sieve twice, agarn rubbing with a ladle.
To complete the Bou'rabaisse, put the parbo'ed potatoes into a larse
2 2
large
pinrhes
o;f
safron strands
casserole
or
saucepan then
fish
then iower the heat to a slow simmer a'd cook for 5 minures'Add the reserved chunks of fish for the garnish and a trickle of olive oil and continue to cook 'ittre for another 7-10 minutes, or until the
is
lift out rhe fish and rransfer to a large, warmed tureen' pour over the broth and sprinkle over the chopped chives.
;t
SEAFOOD
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
FORTHE BRANDADE:
1 tablespoon oliue oil
200g/7oz
cod
jllets,
2 cups milk
I 2
Have ready the Shallot Confit andVeal Stock, and set aside.
For the brandade, heat a tabiespoon of the oil in a heavy-based pan. 'Roast' the cod on the top of rhe stove until just cooked and golden.
Remove, flake and cool.
2 2
3 cook
the potatoes in the milk along with the garlic and some salt and
a
FORTHE SAUCE: 2 3 2
tablespoons Shallot
pepper until soft but not broken down. Drain through a colander set over
Confit (page
9l)
1
bowi, reserving the mi1k. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl until smoorh, then slowly mix in the reserved milk and the cream, beating until you have
a creamy paste.You may not need all the milk, but do use all the cream.
Using a spatula, fold the flaked cod genrly into the potato, keeping the fish as flaky as possible. Season, mix in the parsley. and set aside.
5 To make the sauce, cook the Shallot Confit and Madeira in a small
saucepan
until the liquid is reduced by hatf. Deglaze with the sherry vine-
gar and cook again for a few seconds until reduced a little, then pour rn the veal Stock. Boil until reduced by half. check the seasoninq and set
aside
oz asparagus tips
in
a warm place.
Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling warer until just wilted, drarn,
extrafor seruirt.i
return to the pan, offthe heat, with a little of the butter. Blanch the asparagus tips until just tender and return to their pan with the remaining butter. the brill, heat the oi1 in a hear,y-based saut6 pan set over a medium heat.Add the fillets, and cook for about 2 minutes on each side.
Season well, remove and keep warm.
7 To cook
8 Reheat the brandade over a iow heat in a saucepan. Arrange the spinach in a mound on each warmed plate. Place a fil1et of bril1 on top of each mound. Reheat the asparagus if necessary and arrange around the edges.
Nappe (coat) the fish
with the
sauce,
as
weli. Spoon one-quarter of the brandade on top of each fir1et. Fina1ly, dribble over a little olive oil and serve. If you Like, garnish with a tiny potato Rosti.
j+.{
,$.1t-..
Rovnl
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
100g/3'y'oz Tbmato Concasse (page 97) plus
T IS GOOD TO
MIXTURE OF
I
teaspoons
;for the
sauce
lrouNo tr
MADEAWoNDERFUL BASE
sERVED
1 tablespoon Shallot Conft (page 94) 4 x 200g/7oz John Dory Jillets, skinned 600.q/1lb 5oz Jersey Royals or otherJine baby netu
potatoes, utashed and scrubbed
'
:
fELIcATE DtAtyoNDS
oF
pAN-FRtED
JoHN Donv,
wtrH
oF
FREsH
lr
rs nrso
.'
--
MrorreRnANEAN ToucH.
609/2'loz/',4
,r'e ready the
pitted black
chiues
oliue.s, chopped
209/Zoz thopped
rr
.:r each fish fil1et into 3 long strips then cur rhese into 5cm/2i.n
.rnd shapes; set aside
in the refrigerator.
'l
lemon
,rl the potatoes in their skins for about 12 minutes or until just ten-
.)rain and leave for a few minutes until cooi enough to handle. Peel
FORTHE SAUCE:
a small saucepan then pour
oil rn
teaspoons FreshTbmato
ropped chives. the other fi'esh herbs and the lemon juice. Season lightly,
rvill
afTect
teaspoons of Tomato
.rsse and the remaining chopped chives and olives, into a small
rp;rn and set this aside until you f,re ready to heat and serve it.
irat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large non-stick or -reasoned frying pan. Fry the John Dory 'diarlonds' for about 2-3 .rtes or until just cooked and golden brown, turning once.
- .ing a scone cutter, about 6cn/2%in in diameter, press the potato :r,rre into rounds on warm dinner plates. Stack the fish on top, over:rrq the pieces ;rtrractively.
.lring the
cHrcoRy
MAKES
FrNE
AccoMpANTMENT
TO THE FULL FLAVOUR OF SALMON AND LOOKS SPECTACULAR WHEN SERVED wrrH THE vTBRANT coLouRs oF THE pEppER sAUcE.Asr vouR rrsg_
MONGER
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
500m1/18J1
609 / 2%oz
oz/2
/% stick butter
END OF A
finely
chopped
I 2
1 bay leaf
the peppers and shallots with the herb sprigs and the bay reaf for about 10 minutes or until softened.
j
I
tablespoons
Noilly prat
3 Stir in the Noilly prat and cook uncovered until reduced down to about 1 tablespoon of graze. Add the vinegar and about rlomt/
%
x 2009/7oz
salmon escaloltes
to 180"c,2350"F,/Gas Mark 4. core the chicory heads carefully with a small, sharp knife and roil in the sugar. 5 Heat another third of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan with
sea
- suitabre for the oven. Add the heads of chicory and cook until they turn golden brown and caramelize. pour over
the remaining stock so that
aside
the
Set
just tender.
in
a warm place.
salmon
escalopes
in
lightly
greased pan
To serve, reheat the sauce gentry and whisk in the last of the butter. Reheat the chicory if necessary. Season the salmon to taste with salt
and
lemon juice, then arrange with the chicory on warmed plates and pour the sauce around. Serve immediately.
WITH A TWIST
OF
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
Court-bouillon (page 16) or salted tuater,Jor
poaching
DON'T NEED
e:rdv the
weighing about
riys
- tLrst enough to cover the lobsters. Bring to the boi1. :c the lobsters into the sirnmering water and cook for 1 minute. -. a11ow to cool until comfortable enough to handle rvith a tea
r.'n slice each lobster in half lengthr,va,vs thror-rgh the stomach shell
-:r
,nd clarvs. Discard the entrails and shells but reserve the heads for
: irh,
00m1/
7J1
z/
13
up.
x quantity Candied
(optional)
.r'{ments each from the grapefruit and orange, and tr,-o each from the
pink grapefruit
onange
.:,J lirne. Work over a bowl ro carch rhe juice:. Squeeze rhe unseg: 'r,u'ts of the fruits for their juice and combine rvith the saved jurces. :heVegetable Nage until reduced by half.Add 2 tablespoons of the
1 lemon
1
LIWIE
in
the
*lrents until they dissolve into tiny cells. Set aside and keep tvarm.
4 basil
sea
julienne strips
i
-':r
the asparagus tips and leeks together in salted water untiljust ten-
drain and return to the pan rvith one-third of the butter to glaze.
:r .r little of the leftover citrus juice for flavour. Boil and drain the .lle. glaze with anothcr third of the butter and keep lvarm.
. the oil in a iarge, non-stick pan. Season the lobster meat then'roast'
rnert on the top of the stove for about 6-8 minutes, adding the clau'
rlnvav thror-rgh.Turn frequently to caramelize the flesh evenly.
.rve. roll theTaghatelle into a spiral around a fork and place in the cen-
nrrrn plrte. Slice the tail nrear and pl.rce orer rhc paita. rhcn trrange
.\' meat to each side. Garnish
the
:rd rvhisk in the remaining butter. Stir rn the chervil, check the season-
i coat the lobster. Garnish rvith basil and Candied Orange Peel if using.
,, :::' Il
',.. ,:,
,ti
.---{d
best sales
of meat and poultry 6re in the autumn and tuinter when our
too
t0tfierS .;ttse
its short
,,lle meat with ctn exotic dark chocolate and raspberry uinegar
Our
bee;f
Irtoly until the meat falls edsily from the bone for shredding and wrapping
cr6pinettes. O;ffal, too, is a personal;fauourite and a challenge, tempting me into an
':'enturous m0od which might result
in my dusting
sweetbreads
'
nnd seruing them with a Sduternes s6uce. Duck foie gras) a somewhat unique
ttr o;f
olfol,
Lue use
cook
rhe poch6-grtII6 way, part poaching to moisten, then roasting to render down
L
127
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
:] SLICES OF FILLET OF BEEF NESTLING ON SPINACH AND A , ecrATo Rosrr, A BRtcHT LAyER oF Cnenveo pnnsley, vEGETABLE .-:S AND AN UNUSUAL ACCOMPANII'IENT OF CREP/NETTE OF BRAISED - - Tlnr's Nor ALL: THE wHoLE DtsH ts ENHANCED wtrH A RICtr
:,.!VOURED.
loz in ueigltr,
""
oF BEING LtcHT I
REDUCE
SYRUPY
yET
--: .:
TWO-FOLD: rtnsT,
A WHOLE
SEC-
IT IS DEEP AND
AND,
.:; THAN oNE. IF|ND tFTHATVenI Srocr ts usED oN trs owN,THE .-:\T sAUCE ts roo slcKy.you wtLL NEED To srART THls REctpE .. I z DAyS lN ADVANCE, BUT DoN'T BE pur orr. Mosr oF THE ELE_ -: CAN BE MADE AHEAD THEN PULLED TOGETHER IN TNIUYPU!
:.\ATIVELY, YOU COULD SIMPLIFY THIS RECIPE BY SERVING THE STEAK *
61
caulfat
sea
(see Clossary,
page 188)
oz/2
cups
" ,
o pnRslry.
I .u -5rl
:rt 1y' days before you intend serving the dish, marinate the oxtail: put
about
botrle
p,'d
red winc
'i rhyme and the bay leaf. Cover the surface r,vith cling fi1m, fitting it -: the oxtail rather than the rim of the borvi and holding the meat in
:'e'eath the wine with
a
'vine.Add
the
8 shallots, sliced
bee;f
12 black peppercotns
1 sprig thyme
1 small bay leaf
: :rch colour.Transfer to the refrigerator to marinate for 2,1 hours. r::r the fillet of the side'chain'and tail end so that you have a neat :,.rrl rnxl need to remove the shiny siner,v as well, or ask the butcher
rhis.'Wrap the fillet tightly
in cling film
. ieep it round. Chop the trimmings roughly and set aside separately. :r.,r'e ready the Chicken and Veal Stocks. prepare, and set aside. the
.:J Baby Onions and the Creamed parslev. '':xt make the Redwine Sauce. Boil dor,vn the bottle of red rvine until
..rd to about
.4,:
59 /',402
/ 1 tablespoon butter
.it:
::,:
.::'
"
,:l.lr,
;
!.
a
a -.
heat 2 tablespoons of oil and saut6 the shallots, the reserved beef trimmings
and the peppercorns, thyn-re and bay leaf, until the shallots are nice and
caramelized. Deglaze the pan with the sherry vinegar, stirring until evaporated.
(page 93)
x quantity Creamed
Pour in the reduced red wine 'syrup', ail of the Chicken Stock and onethe Veal Stock.
third of
a ladle
59 / %oz
/ 1 tablespoon butter
o;f
your
clt
6 7
Pour through a sieve lined with wet muslin or a clean tea towel at least When the oxtail has marinated sutliciently, remove it from its marinade
twice to remove all the particles. Check the seasoning and set
and pat dry
8 In an ovenproof
over
of
of the oi1 and, when very hot, add the oxtail pieces and brown them all
- in fact until thev are almost blackened and well caramelized. This
to develop. Remove the oxtail pieces and wipe
rots and onions until softened. Add the reserved marinade and the Veal
Stock and boil down to reduce by halfto concentrate the flavour.
l0
pan with the vegetables and reduced stock. Cover and braise in the oven for
2%-3 hours or until the meat is meltingly tender and starts ro leave the bone.
'With
it into
l2
Strain the braising liquor through a sieve ser over a bowl. Discard the
vegetables.
Return the braising liquor to the pan and set it over high heat
on the top of the stove. Boil down the liquor until it becomes very syrupy,
and has reduced to about 300n1/% pint/ 1% cups. This
agent for the oxtail shreds. Check the seasoning, then gradually add just enough of the reduced liquor, a small amount at a time, to the shreds that they bind together. Make sure the mixture is only just bound and nor
too wet.You should have about one-third of the reduced liquor ieft for
reheating later.
l3 Chill the bound oxtail mixture until firrn, then divide it into
four
round balls ready to be wrapped in caul fat. In the restaurant we sometimes divide the mixture into a larger number of baby crlpinettes for each
serving but the wrapping process is quite time-consuming. Alternatively,
if
you don't intend to use caul fat, shape the mixture into 4 litt1e patties.
tf Iiyou are going to use caul fat, soak it in cold water to remove any :r :s of blood. unravel it gently to avoid tears then pat it dry. Take an
r:-irl ball and wrap it in
a
COOKING STEAKS
WHEN ASKED How LoNG I
WITH THIS HINT: CHECK BY
LEAVE
{ -'. overlap.Twist the overlapping caul fat tightly underneath the ball. i r:s.rt with the remaining oxtail balls. Leftover caul fat can be frozen.for
-,.: r:r another recipe.
PRESSING
I l)repare the Potato Rcisti for the garnish, and set aside, uncovered, rn - ir:m place.They wili remain crisp. ll Reheat the Glazed Baby Onions and the Creamed parsley, makrng ;': lhe latter is light and creamy. Reheat the Red Wine Sauce. l? In a saut6 pan, heat half the butter for the garnish untii itJusf stops
I 1
veotuty.Wltg
RARE
srEAKs,youR
FINGERS
sHouLD ALMosr
sLtGHT coMEBAcK
srEAKs
wrLL
slLL
HAVE
A LtrrLE
spnrNc.
Werr-
.::ring and quickly saut6 the mushrooms until liehtlv cooked. Set
aside
DONE STEAKS
NO COMMENT!
tslanch the spinach leaves for about 1 minure or unril jusr wirted, then
squeeze dry
::;.:r and
in
in
a small pan
with the
taste.
ll
::
ll.eheat the reserved oxtail braising liquor. It should have a syrupy con_
" ilnc)'. If
stock. Simmer
in the with a slotted spoon and take offthe caul fat r;'.rng a lacy pattern.This is a process we always do in the Aubergine for - ':ccial touch, but you can leave the caul fat on ifyou prefer. lO You are now ready to pull all the elements together for serving. :..:. Remove the "-::rove the wrapped fillet of beef from the refrigerator and take ofT the -::s film. Cut the fillet across into four equal-size rounds of steak. Heat a ;:,espoon of oil in a heavy-based frying pan, add l5g/%oz/1 tablespoon
:r-::er and, when
: irrtail
crtpinettes
it
:::
ll r:
in the
each
.,rrre of each large warmed plate. Put a steak on each potato Rcisti, shape Creamed Parsley
r---rk.
Arrange the oxtail cripinette, the Glazed Baby Onions and saut6ed
:-,;ihrooms around the steak. Drizzle the Red'wine Sauce over the steak. :*etables and the oxtail to glaze. Serve in triumph!
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
4009/ 14o: canttt, tut into
l cnt /
HUSBANDRY.
IT IS LEAN,
/irt
dice dice
BrcnusE vENtsoN ts
FULL_FLAV.,RED
Wonlo:
RED
.: AND Venl Srocr REDUCED RIGHT DowN AND FLAVouRED . :iNAL Azttc FAsHtoN wtrH DARK, BtrrER cHocoLATE.
.
2oz /
tN
THE
200m1/7fl
1
oz/l
' 'rake the sauce, have ready the veal Stock. Using a large sallcepan, '- rhe shallots and garlic in the 25gl1oz/z sttck of butter, along with the
:.e. bay
softer-reci.
r:qlaze u''ith the raspberry vinegar then por-rr in the wine and boil until
'
in
consistency.
Wal
coarsely chopped
I ptnt/2% cups. Pour the sauce through a fine sieve set over a bowl, .':re ge'tly r'vith the back of a lad1e. Return the sauce to the pan. Stir .: chocolate until it melts, reheatinl very gently if necessary, but tak'-tI/
sprigs thyme
t
2 2
1
hay Leaf
tedspoons black peppercorns teaspoons raspberry uin.egar
, prepare the vegetables, in another saucepan gently saut6 the carrots, :r,rc and bacon in the 50g/2oz/% stick of butter r-rntil golden bror,vn.
: half of this mixture in a separate pat and sct aside.Add '.rl original pan and continue cooking for a further 3_,1
-.1uce
the cabbage
)r,rin the br-rtter from the cabbage mixrure and add the cream. Boil briskly
'rin'tes.
by half until lightly thickened. check the seasoning and set aside ':'iheat the oven to 220"c/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Season the venison steaks
u'til well sealed about 3 rlinutes. cover with a butter paper or sheet of buttered " ,'eproof paper and roast in the oven fbr 4-5 r'inutes. l{emove and ser:-' to rest.At this stage rhe venison should be slightly pink inside.
er il-cheat the cabbage mixture and the reserved uncreamed vegetables sepa--r.
*,ill separate :poon the cabbage rnixture onto warmed plates. Slice rhe 'enison ,ks ard arrange these on top.Arrange the renrai'i'q'eqcr:rbrcs :r1-oll.cl
,reat. Nrappe (coat) the meat and vegetables *-irh srucc irlrl
(ient\
\lr\..
:lx
at:
,aa',
TNGREDTENTS (FOR 4)
4
To
'RE'ARE
AT HoME. Use
oNy
swEETBREADs
.LAND, soMETrMEs KNowN As rHE HEARTBREAD'. TgERe 'ANCREAS IS NO NEED TO BLANCH THEM, ALTHOUGH THIS IS OFTEN RECOMMENDED
SUPPOSED EASIER
FOR
To make the sauce, have ready the chicken Stock. pour the Saurernes into a srrall saucepan and boil down until reduced by harf. Add the Chicken Stock and boil down again to reduce by half. 2 using a thin, sharp filleting knife, remove the rnembrane from the sweer_ breads, sliding the knife under the membrane and working the k'ife away
from you in a sawing action. preheat the oven to 200"C/400"F/Gas Mark 6. 3 Heat the oil in a hear'ry-based frying pan over a medium heat and brown the sweetbreads for about 4-5 minutes on each side, or untir caramerizecl
and golden brown. Sprinkle over the curry powder and salt while cookrng. 4 Remove from the heat, cover each sweetbread with a butter paper or
or
julit,
100g/3%oz/1
759/3oz girolles
FORTHE SAUCE:
75ml/2'/,J1 oz/% cup 2 tablespoons Chickut Stotk (page 181, plus :l tablespoonJor the ::
75tnl/272J1 oz/% cup
buttered greaseproof paper and transfer to the oven. cook for about mnutes or until firm. Renrove and set aside in a warm place,
sti11
tablespoons Sauterttt,
covered.
the carrors with one-quarter of the r0r)g/3%oz/l stick butter and enough water to barely cover them until just cooked and firm - about 5 minutes.The water should have armost evaporated. Season, and keep warm.
5 cook
,;
5 cook
the spinach in another quarter of the butter and 1 tablespoon of Chicken Stock or water, until jusr wilted. Drain, season and keep warm.
in another quarter of the butter, turning frequently until soft and golden brown. Remove and drarn. 8 Add the remaining quarter of the butter to the same pan and saut6
the
7 ln a hear,y-based
girolles for a few minutes until just softened. Remove and drain. 9 To finish the sauce, reheat until just boiling. Taste for seasoning and whisk in the 25g/ 1oz/% stick of chilled and diced butrer.
|
in
in the
top of each then crown with rhe carrots. Place the shanots and girolies around the sweetbreads. Reheat the sauce and rvhisk to a froth with a Bamix (see page 1g9 for supplier) or
a
centre
of
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
700m1/1% pints/3 cups Ldmb Stock (page 17)
'':) OF LAMB, ASK YOUR BUTCHER TO CUT THTCK BONELESS CUTLETS " rHE END OF A SADDLE OF LAMB WHERE tT JOTNS THE LEG.
r ,. L'
":\TS WITH PLUMP LAMB ROASTED UNTIL IT IS JUsT TENDER AND YoU : A DtsH THAT TRULy REFLECTs rHE vtBRANcy or pRovrNce.
Fon
2
ready the Lamb Stock, potato Rristi, Glazed Baby Onions and
::cd Aubergine Slices.
'.rrepare the Nigoise garnish, cut the courgettes
sea
rnto 1cmlZrin thick FORTHE NtgotsE GARNTSH: 4 x Potato Rdsti (page 9l)
24 21 2
;
T
'
I)ip the romatoes briefly in boiling water, skin, deseed and cut them .ruarters. Pick off the tips of the sprig of thyme to form little
:.i'
:,1
medium saucepan and lightly saut6 the courgettes along :he thyme 'flowers' and chopped rosemary for about 6 minutes or ust softened. Remove
ror.vels. Saut6 Season
the oil to
x x
courgettes tomatoes
with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen the tomato quarters until just softened, remove and.
4 ripe
the saut6ed vegetables and set aside together in a warm place. irrake the sauce, boii down the Lamb Stock by about two-thirds. Stir . chopped basil and tarragon. Check the seasoning.
2 large sprigs each of tlryme and rosemary 100m1/3'/'fl oz/% cup oliye oil
iook the lamb, first preheat the oven to j,90"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5. lhe clarified butter or oil in a cast_iron frying pan and brown the '-rolnts all over.tansfer the pan to the oven and roast for g_10 min_ I{emove the meat, season it and leave to rest, covered tn a warm
'
each
::ed plate and arrange slices of lamb on each. Distribute the saut6ed :.rbles, the Glazed Baby Onions, the halved olives and the Candied
-rqine Slices around them. Spoon the sauce over the lamb
:.rbles and serve.
and
'' *i}9uweyf,wffirusrffiffiffiswq'
3'
e I
..1
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
300m1 /%
lrs
BEST.
ltnrce wrll-
pint/1%
cups
AND
ROLL THEM IN
(page 931
1 00g / 3
Have ready the Lamb Stock, Potato Rosti, Glazed Baby Onions and
Tomato Concasse. Boil the Lamb Stock until reduced by two-thirds. Set aside.
with the Ilouquet Garnr, onion and carrot. Cover lvith fresh lvater, bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for about 15-20 minutes until just tender.
2 Drain
in
a saucepan
1%oz /
% stick butter
fine julienrtc
Drain, remove the Bouquet Garni, onion and carrot then set
aside.
50g/2oz
3 In a smal1 pan, melt half the butter and sweat the cabbage 4 5
for 2 minutes
aside.
about 8 small asparagus spedrs 1 whole best end oJ lamb 7 teaspoon each
or until just wilted, stirring occasionall,v. Mix with the lentils and set
Blanch the asparagus in a 1ittle boiling rvater for 2 minutes, then drain,
offnely
refresh
aside.
Preheat the oven to 200"C/400oF/Gas Mark 6. Cut the meat from both
sides
of the best end of larnb and trinr into neat fillets (we call these can-
nons).
herbs, setting aside about 2 teaspoons for the sauce. herbs, making sure they are evenly coated.
Heat the oi1 in an ovenproof saut6 pan and fry the cannons quickly on all
sides
to
seal,
then cover the meat with a butter paper or some buttered grease-
proof paper. Roast in the oven for 5-6 minutes or until the cannons are just
pink in the centre. Remove and set aside u'ithout removing the paper.
Reheat the Potato Rcisti in the oven and the Glazed Baby Onions in a pan
(they won't need additional liquid). Return the Lamb Stock to the boil, add
the reserved herbs, check seasoning and whisk in half the remaining butter.
Using the last of the butter, reheat the lentils and cabbage in one pan and
each
warm plate and spoon in the lentil and cabbage mixture, patting down lightly.
Cut the lamb into neat slices and place on the Rcjsti.Arrange the Glazed
Baby Onions,Tomato Concasse and asparagus around the lentils and lamb.
Bring the
sauce
just back to the boi1, nappe (co*) the lamb with about
spoonful and spoon the rest over the vegetables. Serve immediately.
$* *,: -,6:
*. *r $ d
INGREDIENTS (for 4) 2
tablespoons Shallot
MEDALLTONS
wtrH
SAUTEED cEpEs
1 tablespoonTbmato Concasse (page 97) 200m1/7Jl oz/',4 cup Veal Stock (page 16)
TO
BEEF
Have ready the Shallot Confit, Tomato Concasse, Veal Stock and the
3 2
2 Trim the meat of any fat and cut it iengthways into 2 strips, each vcry
approximately 15cm/6in long. Tie each of these inro long fillet shapes,
/ 425"F/Gas Mark 7.
nrinutes
or until just
softened. Stir
in 2 tablespoons of the oil for about 5 in the Shallot Confit, the Tomato
sea
in a warm place. Blanch the spinach in a little boiling warer with half the butter, then drain well and keep warm.
4 5
the veal rolls and place on a roasting tin. Brush with the remaining oil. Roast for 10-12 minures or until lightly springy to the touch and just pink in the centre. 6 To make the sauce of veal jus, bring the Veal Stock to the boil
Season
with the port. Boil until reduced by one-third then check the seasoning.'Whisk in the remaining butter. 7 Arrange the spinach in a mound in the centre of each warmed plate,
together then place a Potato Rosti on top of each.
these on top of each Rcisti then arrange the garnish of saut6ed cdpes and
Spoon a little of the sauce over the veal then trickle the remainder over
sau ce fo ie
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
gras
each
--s
:'-
GRTLLTNG
pouLTRy rs oFTEN
ne
HAVE ADApTED
rr
ro
surr
FLESH
ON THE.BONE,
'rL cH
KEEPS
wrrH
GRTLLTNG,
wHrcH
HELps
ro
RELEASE
-. FAT SO THAT THE MEAT IS JUST TENDER AND THE SKIN CRISPY. FON MT, -- BEST CHTCKEN rS tue Fntrucu pouLer Bnessr wrrH rrs CHARACTERTS_
BLACK LEGS
AND FINE
FLESH.
POUIET
BNCSSE BIRDS
CAN BE FOUND IN
FREE-RANGE
finishing
JiI-AIN
A GOOD
rnf.TgC
3759/1joz
&-8ERGINE srYLE, sKlM THE FRorH oNLY AND spooN ovER THE BREAsrs.
I Have ready the Chicken Stock and set asidc. I t.ut off the legs and wings from the poulet Bresse or free-range chick:' These can be used for another dish, perhaps in a mid-week casserole. r::;e the breasts intact on the carcass ofeach chicken. t l: r'ou are using homemade tgliatelre, blanch for one minute, drain and
"* i.ide. For fresh ready-made, follow the pack instructions. I iJeat the butter and half the oil in a saut6 pan and gently fry the onions ,r 'hallots until lightly browned, shaking the pan
:" ::r rhe pan and set
aside.
2 sprigs tarragon
FORTHE SAUCE:
2.5 litres/4%pints Chicken
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary Stock (page 1g)
occasionally. Remove
Bl.rnch the spinach in a minimum of water,just enough to cover,for a r'n ieconds until wilted, then drain in a sieve and refresh under cold water
6 white peppercorns
2009 / 7oz fresh foie gras
irrest cooking and preserve the colour. Squeeze gently in a clean tea : .rrl or kitchen paper towels to dry. Set aside.
tllanch the petits pois and the unpodded broad beans in separare pans ,: .-rlted boiling water. Drain. pod the broad beans and set aside both oeas
.:
beans
in a warm
place.
I \ow make the sauce. Preheat ::;s saucepan, put the Chicken
the oven to its lowest temperature. In a Stock to boil along with the bay leaf,
- 'cnr3ry, carrot' onion, celery and peppercorns. Add the birds, ensuring
::: breasts are submerged in the stock. I rurn the heat down so the iiquid is at a very gentre simmer, with just :: occasional bubble, then cover and poach the birds for 10 minutes.
I :''
-l:nrove them, cover loosely in foii, and keep warm in the oven. Return the poaching stock ro the heat and boil rapidiy until reduced .rbout half. Strain through a fine sieve and reserve about,r00ml,u 1,lfl
..lZcups.Theremainingstockcanbeusedinanotherrecipeorfiozen.>
""
"*.sW$ffi,
AND POULTRY
re
i'
to
taste. Heat
until just
o'
aside.
Meanwhile, preheat the grill uritil hot. Remove the birds fro'r the oven, unwrap them and cut the half-poached breasts fronr each carcass,
retaining the skin. Grill the breasts skir-r-side up for abor-rt 4 rninutes then, with a sharp knife, slash each breast diagonany a ferv times, wrap loosely
l2
|
i'
Heat a k'ob of butter in a saut6 pan and qr-rickry rerreat the Tagliatelle,
the spinach and the onions or shaliots in quick succession. Rernove and keep u'arm in separate dishes. r\eheat the petits pois and beans if
necessary.
l4
ing fork for each serving, then place in the centre of a large, r,varr' plate, or simplv pile into a r'or-rnd.Top each rvith a quarter of the spinach.
Arrange one slashed chicke'breast on top of each spinach mound, scr that it falls into a fan. Place the o'ions or shallots, petits pois and broad
beans around the chicken breast.
l5
Reheat the sauce and froth up u,ith a Barnix (see page r g9 for supplier) or a hancl-held electric multi-blender. Ideaily, spoon just the froth of
16
the sauce over the chicke' and serve the rest of the sauce Garnish with the fried tarragon leaves and serve at once.
separately.
'r,.,::,
..,i,i:.
:::..:.:
,:,
:ii
-a:
i|..,1. l,""
aaa-
,,.,,'
..1r'
.a:i:..
,if,..:::1"
i:::;:1. ':i::
::i:,.
..:::.,
,::::::'
,:,
::,
.1:
,t' ;
r11
ii:'l:'
,*
,:,':,' t.
_::',:i
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
200m1
W|TH JUST
GREEN
Stock
tr
FLAVoURSoME.
Tgr
etRo ls cooKED
(page 18)
IN TWO
STAGES
BREAST
AND
-for tltt
rerdl tlrc Brorvrr Chickerr Sto,'k rrrd boil ro redrrcc by hrlf about I00n'i/3'/.fl oz/'l cup. Set aside.
H.rvc
ro
1
%
lar,ge
sprig thymc
oil
in the oven and roast until the partridge is only just done
salt and
4 Melt one-third
tossing r-rntil
it starts to rvilt. I)ick the tips otTthe spriq of thynre - rve call thesc th1'nrc'florvcrs'- and sprinkle half over the cabbage as it cooks.
Blanch the leeks in a 1ittle boiling water, then clrain u'ell and toss in
Nor,n relnove the breasts and legs fr-orn the carcrss anc-l return them to
the pan. Discard the carcass. Cover the legs and breasts with the butter
prpcr or butter:ed greaseproof paper and return to tl-re hot oven for
further
:1
minutes.
8 9
Reheat the stock and stir in the retnaining thyme'flowers'and the last
sauce.
To scrvc. puf thc crbbage in thc ccrrrrc of warnred plrrcr. Cur e.rch leg
in half and pl:rce on the cabbage, then cut the breasts into 6 slices and place
thesc on top
of the
and
R,oas
raby
,
-
.'EA FowL
B'RDS
FnRrucr BUT A pRtME FREE-RANGE FowL wtLL BE eutrE AccEprABLE. s AN TDEAL DtsH To SERVEWHEN FRESH BRoAD BEANs, on rEves,nNo
USE
..G ASPARAGUS ARE IN SEASON. OUT OT SEASON,YOU CAN -QUALITY, FROZEN BROAD BEANS AND THIN ASPARAGUS.
YOUNG,
]f
::
5 0g / 5
oz young dspdrdgus
50g/2%oz/% stick buuer ivc ready the Chicken Stock and set aside.
I .
trim
otT
the back
-. Leave the breasts intact on the carcass. Reserve the legs and wings.
the
with their
carcass,
:: 6-7 minutes Remove the fowr from the stock and set aside to coor.
the sauce, add the wings and legs to the stock and boir it until - rd by half. Strain through a sieve. Discard the wings and legs and set
'ake
.,uce
aside.
i r |
.-r'ch the broad beans for about 2 minutes in boiling saited water. :.. and when cool enough to handle,pop them out of their skins.
- ..rrrch the asparagus for L-2 ninutes in boiling salted water, then drarn
..'t
aside.
:.:at about one-third of the butter and saut6 the mushrooms until just ,-rd; keep warm.
:rheat the oven to 220"c/ 425'F,/Gas Mark 7. cut the breasts from the ':.r fowl carcass, and discard the bones. Heat about two-thirds of the
,i.ing butter in an ovenproofsaut6 pan then cook the breasts skin-side ': for 2-3 minutes or until just crisp and lightly browned.
in the oven and continue to cook the breasts for about rest for a feu, minutes before srici'g
in about half of the re'raini'g '::r' Place the mushrooms in the centre of each warmed dinner plate. -,'ge the slices of guinea fowl on top and surround
u-ith the
br-oad
ll-e
:.. and
asparagus.
ir
the l.rsr .i
I,cger,r[.1.,i..111ri
\.r\.c
INGREDIENTS (for 2)
100m1/1411 oz/1',4 cups
- ,{BLE
tN
LARGER SUpERMARKETs.
THry ARE
sERVED
wtrH
FRESH,
A HINT OF
FIVE-SPICE POWDER.
6 shallots, slircd
1 tedspoon lrcney
in a saucepan and saut6 the shallots r.vith :,,ney and about half the five-spice por,r,,der until softened and
:Lized
about 7 minutes.
,. :.1
the vinegar and cook until evaporated. pour in the port and Madeira
,il until the liqr,rid is syrupy and has reduced b1' about tr,vo-thirds.
'-.rJ the Veal Stock and boil for about 15 minutes or until redr_rced by
1)anil/3'/fl oz/'y' 2
a
cup Madeira
::ien strain through a fine sieve, rubbing gentiy r.vith the back of
\cason this sauce and set aside.
'
qlaze the peaches, sprinkle rvith the rernainder of the five-spice porv-
bredsrs
::J the icing sugar. Heat another third of the butter in a non-stick fry-
saut6 the peaches, colouring them all over. Take care not
place.
ircook them. Set aside and reserve the pan jr_rices in a u.arm
iren vou are ready
.
.,.
-125"F/Gas Mark 7. Score the fatty skin of the breasts; this ensures
irhout using any oi1, heat a non-stick or heavy-based frying pan until
]rot. Add the duck breasts, skin-side dou,'n, and cook for about 3
min-
r,vay
the duck r,vill make its orvn fat. or buttered greaseproof paper and
with
a br-rtter paper
,. rn the oven for about 7-8 minutes, turning once or trvice. Remove ,llorv to rest for 3 minutes before slicing each breast into 8 slices.
.'r
hile the duck is resting, cook the spinach in a little water and
tou,e1s.
the
,rnrng butter for about one minute or until just u,'i1ted. Drlin rvel1, :zrng out lightly in a clean tea towel or kitchen paper
i)lace a spinach mound
in the centre of
.iiced dr,rck over and around each to make a pvranrid sh:rpe. Cr-rt each :r half
,n
in four'and
:r'ed pan juices. Return the sauce to the boil. check rhe se.rs.rii.q. :rrrrl
it
l)ttl.
:'.
.-,
i ,.r
':
. rruly
beautiful
riual the best art.I loue drawing and spend many hours with Damien,
are
't'Pastry Chef, playing around with designs. I like to think our clients
'.tited by desserts and see them
as
forbidden
all made in
the
.:rchen, neuer bought in, and often serued fresh from churning.
.,0p of heauen to a larger quantity of Jactory-made mediocrity.
prefer a small
basics
:stry and so on, Many chefs fear pastry bwt, to me, it brings great satisfaction.
of Guy
Sauoy,
,illiant young talented Philippe Chapon and spent a great deal of tinte in
.ttion, perfecting my French as well as my skills.
In
:
.-tlt) uS
I48 DESSERTS
Tatin of pears
THe sroRy or rue Tntrru srsrERs AND THErR FAMous
DowN
AppLE TARTs rs
upsrDE-
wELL
rcNowu.Ttr
SAME tDEA
wtrH
ro cooK THE pEARs FtRsr IN A CARAMEL syRup BEFORE BAKING THEM WITH A BUTTERY CARAMEL SAUCE AND LIGHT.
pEARS.
pRerrn
10Jirm pears
e.g. Packhams
Cuoose A
FrRM FRUrr
sHApE
3259/1102/'l% 50g/2oz/'y'
I 2
Have ready the homemade Pu{f Pastry and set aside. Peel, quarter and
core the pears, then cover and set aside. Put three-quarters of the sugar into a deep saucepan with about 4 table-
starts
to dissolve.'With
will
\iVhen every grain ofsugar has dissolved, stop stirring, raise the heat and
boil the sugar until it is a rich, dark caramel. Imnediately add the pear
quarters, standing well back as the cararnel
will
spit.
just softened
but retain their shape and terture; during this time turn the pears once or
twice. Renrove from the heat. Leave the pears to cool in the caramel syrup, then chill. Drain the pears and set aside. I)iscard the crramcl syrup.
saucepan
it to caranrel
staie as before.
caramel starts to smoke, I,vhisk in the diced butter.When you irave a smooth
sauce,
base.
to 200"C/400oF,/Gas Mark
Arrange the drained pears in the caramel sauce. Fit the pastry on top,
tucking the edges down well to hold the pears in place. Bake for 20-25 mrnutes or
off
at
once during baking, leaving enough juice to keep the pears moist.
8 Cool in
roo111
the tin for 10 minutes then invert onto a olate and serve
temperature.
;i'?
:,t
,,,'
,i,, li;f
::l ,::i-
"l
,it
.:::
DESSERTS
I5
--rS DtsH ts oBltctNGLy ADApTABLE. Senveo oN THETR owN, poAcHED ,!IRS MAKE A SIMPLE, LIGHT AND REFRESHING DESSERT IDEAL FOR AL
INGREDIENTS (for 5)
frm pears, ideally Packhams 1 x 75cl bottle red wine 200m1/7fl oz/l( cup Stock Syrup
6
(page
23)
1 cinnamon stick
5 cardamom pods
7 star anise
THETR sHApE
Ai.L,
NEEDTo srART
BE
--
s REctpE ABour
rwo
DAys tN ADVANcE.Tge
Peel the pears thinly, leaving the stalks intact. For a decorative effect,
r-ir-c some of the skin around the stalk end and, using a small, sharp knife,
:he refrigerator and leave the pears to macerate for about one day, turn,-o'occasionally; this helps them develop a good rich colour.
into a saucepan
large
:::.rugh to hold the pears upright. Add the Stock Syrup and spices, and
::rng to the boil. Remove from the heat and add the pears.
I
'^:
to fit exactly
liquor.
I ':.
Adjust the heat to maintain the barest simmer and poach the pears gencan
'::r liquid. Cover and chill for one day. Drain, remove the
oo
a-.ri4 I:q-:J:-9* ;
;. 7 ,;9.
*:,.i ,; 'l
: i
52 DESSERTS
Hazelnut tuiles
We sEnve rHEsE FLAT As A BASE roR Poncueo PrnRs tN Sptcro Rro WrNr (rnce l5l), ro AccoMPANY DAINTY scooPs oF lcE-cREAM' oR
LIGHTLY CURLED AS PETITS FOURS.
50g/2oz/% cup
2 59
oz /
tablespoons cups
plain Jlour
in the remaining
250g/8oz/3
ground hazelnuts
of the mixture
SHAPING TUILES
FoR pERFEcr RoUND
RoUND TEMpLATES
TUrLEs, SpREAD THE tvltxruRE
it, allowing room for some expansion and using a palette knife to
tNr:
:
scrape the tops level. For the neatest shape use a homemade template (right).
Bake in batches of 4-6 until light golden brown, about 7 minutes. Scoop
as
:
,.
off with a palette knife onto a wire rack where the tuiles will crisp up on top to flatten them
as theY
cREAM coNTAlNrns.
LID, THEN DRAW
Cur
-*:
they cool. For an extra flat surface to the tuiles, lay a second baking tray
cool.
coMFoRTABLy. Spneno
EAcH
*:
For curved tuiles, curl them over a rolling pin while still hot. Store in
THEN
USE
PALETTE KNIFE
LIF- :
an airtieht container.
THE TEMPLATE.
Coconut tuiles
Woruornrul wlrH NEwLY PtcKED RASPBERRIES AND
Fness GrrucrR lce-cRenv (ence 172).
HoMEMADE
desiccated coconut
I 2 3
to 180"C,/350"F/Gas Mark
4.
egg whites
.
not reduced to a powder. Add the icing sugar and flour and process for a few more seconds until
a smooth, slightly runny paste.
well blended, then add the egg whites and melted butter and process again
Line
teaspoonfuis of the mixture over it, allorving room for some expansion, using a palette knife to scrape the tops level. For the neatest shape use
homemade template (above right).
a
DESSERTS I53
Mousse of blood-oranges
*-rEN
BLooD-oRANGES ARE tN SEAsoN,AND THEIR FULL-FLAVoURED JUtcE
oz/2
cups
-'{T, Mousse.
F.-C
Our oF sEAsoN,
AND
500m1/18fl oz/2
1 lilre/1% pinx/4%
%
cups
wE MoULD THE
MoussEs
cups
SERVE THEM
}.1K
l7itre/I% pints/4% cups of mixed juice until it has reduced by half to about 500m1/
FORTHE SAUCE:
500m1/18J1
I \leanwhile, make the Italian Meringue. t lf using leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in a bowl of iced
oz/2
cups
warer until .,rened, then remove and gently squeeze out the excess water.
6 passion frwits
2-3
2j)
or
I l)ivide the quantity of reduced juice in half. Bring one halfjust to boil:i point then add the soaked gelatine and stir briskly until dissolved. If
r::'rg gelatine crystals, sprinkle these into the just boiled juice, whisking ::::rl dissolved. Stir in the remaining juice and strain through a fine sieve. t \\'hisk the juice very gradually into the Italian Meringue, then set aside to
1-2 tablespoons
1 teaspoon cornflour
:.il to blood temperature. Meanwhile whip the cream until it holds in soft r:lis.When the orange mousse mixture has cooled, gently fold in the cream.
I
:
To accelerate the setting of the mousse, place the bowl in a larger bowl
i :;ed
wate r,
:---q.
Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, tapping the bases gently to ensure
':--re are no air pockets. Chil1 for about 2 hours untii firm.
I While the mousses are setting, make the sauce: boil the 500m1,/18fl oz,z i .ups orange juice until it has reduced by half. Cut the passion fruits rn ::ii and, with a small, sharp teaspoon, scoop their pulp and seeds into the
'::;e. Boil again for one minute. Add the Stock Syrup or sugar, tasting for
-ieetness and adding more
if
necessary.Whisk
':c
sauce
until it
I Remove from the heat and strain lnr to prevent a skin from forming
".cr the sauce.
through
"rnrekins briefly into boiling water, demould onto dessert plates and spoon
I54 DESSERTS
Two
cLASSrc
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
about 700g/ 1lb 9oz selection Jresh berry Jruit:..
e.g. strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blatl:-
ovERRrpE
soFT FRUrr
nny
coults,
THEN
berri
wrrH THE
nru
ELEGANTLY srMpLE
DESSERT LEAVE
TloN'
|
frozen
raspberries
SCOOPS
OF
SORBET,
SERVED
caster sugar
I Pick
necessary.
Ideally, the strawberries should be small; large ones must be at least halved.
2 To make the coulis framboise, pur6e the raspberries with the sugar to taste and the lemon juice, then rub through a sieve with a ladle to remove the pips. Set aside to chill, along with the berry selection,
until ready to
serve.
as
2oz
/% cup
caster sugar
100m1/3',1
Jl oz/%
temperature
3
set
it
is best served
warm. Put the egg yolks, sugar and Champagne in a heatproof bowl and
over a saucepan of simmering water.'whisk with a hand-held elec* tric beater or with a sturdy balloon whisk until you have a pale, creamy mixture. The foam must be sufiiciently thickened so that
it
it won't
break
down on cooling: you should be able ro write a figure of eight with the foam when you lift the beaters. Remove and cool the foam until tepid. To serve, toss the prepared fruits gently in the coulis and spoon onto serving plates. Drizzle over the sabayon sauce. Ifyou intend serving scoops
of sorbet, then place these in rhe centre of each plate with the {iuits
arranged around them in a circle.
DESSERTS I55
LAYERED
AT RANDOM WITH
" '. ANA AND STRAWBERRY, THEN SET tN A PASS|ON FRUTT jELLy FOR . 'artztNG EyE-AppEAL. AN excrlle NT PALATE cLEANsER AND LtcHT To .- HIS TERRINE IS IDEAL FOR THOSE OCCASIONS WHEN A SPECIAL FRUIT
pink grapefruits
seedless oranges
8 large
6 passion Jruits
IS VERY POPULAR
WITH CHI.-
ESPECIALLY lF SET lN iNDIVIDUAL DARIOLE IYOULDS, ':\, ' .] IT IS PARTICULARLY REFRESHING SERVED WITH SMALL SCOOPS OF :..- GREy Trn SoReer (elcr 173).We oFrEN sERVE tr wtrH A couLts
'ASSION FRUIT, FINELY DICED MANGO AND STRAWBERRY.
leaues
2 large bananas
1
2 59 / 1o
..
'ing a small serrated knife, cut the tops and bottoms off the citrus :.. Cut away the remaining peel removing rvith it all the membrane.
-iurq each fruit in your hand, and working over a bowl, cut out each
of
..gnrents leaving the inner membranes behind. Discard any stray pips.
,'.rce the seplments on a clean tea towel to drain the juice and chil1 fbr
to drain further
and
i \leanwhile,
into
mix the
: n ith the Stock Syrup. 4 ii r-rsing leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in
::,'ned, then remove and gently squeeze out the excess water.
5 i lcat half of the passion fruit syrup until it boils. Remove fi'om the ,r and stir in the soaked gelatine until dissolved. If usine gelatine
.t.ils, sprinkle directly
l
dissolved.
fruit
I ine a 1 kg/2lb loaf tin with cling film, leaving an overhans of about
'-'rn/5in all round which can later be folded over the top. 7 \{ix the syrup with the citrus fruit sesments rhen spoon about : :' third into the base of the loaf tin. Peel the bananrs and lrrange one
: them, whole, iengthways down one side of rhe tin: pl.rcc helf oi
':.rri"berries down the other side.
tl're
I56 DESSERTS
Spoon over more segments and syrup. Arrange the second banana lengthways down the opposite side from the first one. Add rhe remainrrrg
strawberries, again on the opposite side. Finish by adding the remainrng
If you have any leftover syrup, carefully pour it rrr, tapping the whole tin gentiy and allowing the syrup to find its own level
within the tin.
Tng the sides of the overhanging cling film gently to straighten then fold it gently over on top. Place in the refrigerator to chil overnight or
until firm.
l0 About 15 minutes before you are ready to unmourd the terri'e, transfer it to the freezer.Just before serving, unfold the cling film on top
then invert the terrine onto a serving platter or board. carefully remove
all of the cling film. cut into slices about 2cm//,in thick, ideally with an electric carving knife, although a large serrated knife will do. Lift each
slice onto a serving plate using a fish slice.
xk$r$rdwws
#$$#sstr #ss#
.g tr$*s& fftr#trtrStrssg.
F$d;f
s$$wps 3*$s.,'r
DESSERTS I59
MysrERy
EASY
ro
MAKTNG GRASP
PERFEcT
Hor
DEssERT
sourrlE.Tue
l:lNlQUE lS
TO
AND, OBLIGINGLY,
lT
LENDS ITSELF TO
I x l50ml/%
%
pint souffl6s)
(page 22)
",,ANcE PREPARATION SO THAT THE SOUFFLE REQUIRES ONLY MINIMAL ,--:NTtoN AND A BRTEF BAKTNG JUST BEFoRE sERVING.A cnenr souFFLE,
-]UGH,
IS ONLY AS GOOD AS ITS BASE: AS LONG AS THIS IS FULL AND
50g/2oz 4
chocolate
:.TURE tNTo rHE suBltME. Fon encu QUANTITY oF BASE MlxruRE' usE -IER THE APRICOT OR THE
RASPBERRY FRUIT PUREE.
egg whites
859/3oz/% cup
a tablespoon or two oJ icing sugar, to dust H:ive ready the Crdme PXtissidre and set aside.
t_oat the insides of the souffl6 dishes evenly with the butter. Sprinkle
FORAPRICOT SOUFFLE:
1
:1 the chocolate, turning the dishes and tapping out any excess. The .:ing helps the soufll6 to rise evenly so make sure there are no gaps'
x 4259/1102
oJ % lemon
can apricots
in naturaljuice
ofyour choice. For the apricot soutA6: drain the juice from the can into a heaq/ pan' - :-i the dried apricots and just enough water to cover. Simmer until the
\1ake the fruit puree
::.ots
-
liquid
,:rslbr
to a liquidizer or food
processor.
frozen
raspberries,
.:rdv and the canned apricots. Blend to a smooth pur6e; set aside to cool'
For the raspberry souffl6: blend the fruits to a pur6e with the sugar
-:r boil down to reduce by half. Cool, then rub through a sieve with .:-. to remove the pips.
a
1259/1oz/% cup
caster suga(
Pitissidre, blending
to
.les on a baking sheet.Whisk the egg whites until they hold soft peaks'
:.rdually whisk
6
:
Spoon into the prepared dishes and scrape the tops 1evel
.r
knife. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 10-12 minutes vou bring the
Now, act fast! Have the icing sugar ready in a sieve and
'.rtfl6s
as
out of the oven, quickly dust the tops with sugar. Set each ramekin
:: a plate (use a fish slice for fast action serving) and sen-. instanth-'
I6O DESSERTS
To A
sourrtE-lrrE
FoNDANTS
FROZEN
CAN BE
(page 24)
IT
IS WORTH MAKING UP A
1509/5oz/1%
cnN'r
oN A coLD
wrrH A scoop
or
Grrucen tcr-
pe er_
(elce lg7).
I Make up the Italian Meringue and set aside. Ir will hold well. 2 Melt the 25g/roz/% stick of butter and use to brush the sides and bases
of 12 dariole moulds or ramekin dishes, then dust with the grated chocolate, turning the moulds and tipping out excess to ensure an even coatlng.
Set aside
;finely grated
259/1oz/% 3
teaspoons instant
granules
5 egg yolks
3 Place the pieces of chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Melt, stirring occasionalry, then remove and cool
ro room temperature.
1259/4oz/7
cup sugar
cocoa
4 sift
together the flour, cocoa powder and cofTee. prace the yolks and 1509/5oz/7% sticks softened butter in a mixing bowl and whisk toqether
powder
j00nl/% pint/
melted chocolate and, finally, fold in the Italian Meringue. Spoon or plpe the mixture into the prepared moulds or ramekins, tapping the moulds gently to ensure there are no air gaps, then level the tops with the back of a knife. If not immediateiy required, they can be placed in the freezer. oth-
in cling film until ready to bake. sauce, which can be prepared an hour or so before serving, put the water, sugar and cocoa powder into a saucepan and heat gently, stirring all the time, until the sugar and cocoa have clissolved. Bring to the boil, still stirring, then add rhe cream.
er-wise wrap
Return to the boil and simmer for 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently until the sauce coats the back of the spoon. Remove and cool slightly, then cover the top of the sauce loosely with cling film to prevent a ski' formi.g. 8 when you are ready to eat the fondants, preheat the oven to L90"c/
375"F/Gas Mark 5. Remove any cring firm, prace as many moulds or ramekins as required on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or, if they
have been frozen, for about 20 minutes, until risen and
firm on top.
serve immediately.
DESSERTS
63
Chocolate tart
5r-rr.,r,
olRr
AND DElrctous
x quantity Rich
Sweet
Pa*ry
(page 26)
AND sET To A Glossy FrNrsH. Some unvr sArD THrs ts rHE BEsr
TRTANGLES.
1 egg yolk beaten with a little water, to glaze 1009/1102 dark chocolate, ideally 50%o
solids,
cocoa
Jinely chopped
I Have ready the Rich Sweet Pastry and the Candied Orange Pee1. 2 On a lightly floured board, ro11 out the pastry dough so that it is large
:rrough to 1ine, with some overhang, a21crn/9in flan tin with a removable :rse. Do not trim too exactly at this stage, allowing the edges to overhang
.-rghdy. Press the pastry well into the sides and make sure there are no tears.
150m1/%
pint/%
cup milk
eggs, beaten
TO SERVE:
1
x quantity Candied
3 I
Cover with foil, weigh down the base with baking beans and chi1l in the
4.
whipped cream
rcxng sugar cocoa powder
flan
is
just set. Remove the foii and baking beans. using a sharp
with leftover
1eve1.
case
.'olour; remove and brush rvith a glaze of egg yolk beaten in a little water. Lower the oven to 130"C/250"F,/Gas Mark % andbake the case for 3 mrnutes to seal the glaze. Remove and set aside.
Meanwhile, place the chopped chocolate in a bow1. Bring the milk and
in
rng until the chocolate has melted and the ingredients have amalgamated.
7 8
Put the beaten eggs in another bowl and pour in the chocolate mixture,
*-hisking well. Strain through a fine sieve to ensure the mixture is smooth. Return the flan
case
rou have lifted out slightb. Pour the chocolate nrixture into the
rnixture as high up the sides
as
taking the
Carefully reposition the shelf and bake the tart for about 25 minutes or until
the fi1ling has started to set. Tr:rn off the oven, leaving the tart inside for a fur-
'When
cool,
push up the base to remove from the tin. Garnish with whipped cream and
i:$s w #w $# sx
I64 DESSERTS
Frtll
rave au cnocolat
Tue ulrtvnrE cHocoLATE
A vANtLLA tcE-cREAM,
To SERVE wtrH RASpBERRTES oR wtrH gorH. oR wtrH lN rHe AueERctNE, wE sERVE THts
MoussE
sMALL TNDTvTDUAL MouLDs. Ar Hove you MAy FtND tr EASTER To MAKE oNE LARGE MoussE. ANoruen oploN wouLD BE To sKIp rHE BAsE AND JUST
ELEGANT
wtNE
GLASSES.
HLvr
3 Pompadour ice-cream;fan
cornflakes, crushed into
wa;fers
or 859/302, .;
fne
crwmbs
usE spEctAL
rRom FRRNcE:
pRALTNE
cRUsHED wAFERS
A GooD, srRoNG cHocoLATE FLAVoUR, cHoosE cHocoLATE wrrH neour 60% cocoA solrDs.Tns oesseRr cAN BE MADE AND FRozEN AHEAD.
pnsrE. FoR
For the base, melt thc whitc chocolate with the cream, in a bowl
set
over a pan of gently sirnmering wrter. stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove the bowl and set aside.-When cool,beat in the liquid glucose.
oz/%
cwp
milk
Stir the crushed fan r,vafers or cornflakes into the chocolate. Place the
otrtside ring of a 21,cn/9in cake tin, without the base, onto a flat serving
TO SERVE:
fresh raspberries uanilla ice-cream
a spoon.
It should
be
For the mousse, rnelt the dark chocoiate in a bowl set over a pan of
it
over-
heat or
it will
to stir to a snlooth it
cream.
Remove the bowl from the pan and cool to roonl temperature.
Put the egg yolks, sugar and water into a larger bowl. Set
a
over a pan
whisk until you have a thick, pale gold foam.You should be able to draw
consistency.
Fold in the melted chocolate with a nretal spoon then chill in the refrigerator.
5 When
niik togeth-
er in another bowl until soft peaks form. Fold half of this crearn mixture
into the chocolate mixture and, once it is incorporated, fold in the remainder. This two-stage process will ensure a nice light texture. Spoon
the mousse mixture onto the crushed wafer base in the cake tin, spreading evenly to ensure a level surface. Return to the refrigerator to
set.
'When
the mousse is firm, run the tip of a knife around the ring and
lift
it
base
keep
DESSERTS
65
My rice pudding
A well-r-oveD FAVouRrrE To wHtcH I noo n sopHtslcATED ToucH oF
cnEvE nNclRrse.
Tur
oz/2 oz/2
AND IT CAN
BE
1 uanilla pod
FRUrr sucH
ns PoncuEo Pmns rN
(encr l5l).
rice
Howeven,
rr
As A DESSERT tN
180g/6oz/% cup
caster sugar
PUREE
OF MANGO OR
PRUNES.
Gooo,Too,
Hor
AS A
I In a large heavy-based
elong
saucepan,
point. Meanwhile, split the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds and add the."
with the pod itself, to the saucepan. 2 Stir in the rice and bring to the boil. Lower to a slow simmer and conrinue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes, or until the rice rs
soft and the mixture reduced and thickened.
3 In
a large bowl beat the yolks with the sugar until the mixture
1s
pale and smooth.'When the rice mixture is ready, beat egg mixture.
5 To serve as an accompaniment, shape into quenelles (page 173) using ) dessertspoons.Alternatively, press into small moulds using round cutters
piaced on dessert olates.
DESSERTS I67
Cassonades
iI
THE AueeRctNe,
wE
sERVE
IN
INGREDIENTS (for 6)
VARIETY OF FLAVOURS
IN DAINTY CUSTARD
SELEC-
- cN
oz/2
LARGER
UHTJull
cream milk
wto
A HoMEMADE ESsENcE (aelow). Bur wnv, 'ou MAy AsK, Do wE usE UHT vrlr? Tsr eNswen ts tr HELPs ro
rHE
LATTER EMpLoyrNG :-ABILIZE THE CUSTARD MIXTURE DURING BAKING AND IT ALSO MEANS
--1AT WE CAN USE FEWER EGGS.
ua,rnilla pods,
split and
| l)ut the
milk and the flavouring of your choice into a large ..1cepan and bring it to scalding point. Preheat the oven to
cream,
:tt"C/225"F/
Meanwhile whisk the egg yolks in a large bowl. \Vhen the milk just
sprrgs
.fresh tn),mc
3
:-i
Strain through a fine sieve, discard the flavourings, then pour into ramekin dishes which have been set out on a baking sheet. Bake for
-15
minutes until just set, then cool and chill until firm.
To serve, sprinkle with a light, even layer of demerara sugar and place
.'rrler a very hot. preheated grill to glaze; or, if you have one, use a hand-
susar.
l2flozllZcups)
300g/1002/1% cups
drop o;f liquid
glucose caster sugar
'When
every grain has dissolved, stop stirring, raise the heat and boil the
.,.'rup steadily until it just begins to caramelize. Remove from the heat and
co;ffee
granules
as requtrcd.
[-
68 DESSERTS
INGREDIENTS (for 5)
2 5 0g /
1
discarded
ADDED AFTER THE MILK HAS BEEN BEATEN ONTo THE YoLKs, REsULTING IN A
TO BE HELD IN SUSPENSION.
Wr
sERvE THrs
wrrH
A TrNy
scoop oF
A MrNT spRrc.
uanilLa pods
cream
Peel away the stringy, coarse ribs of the rhubarb then cut the stalks first nto lcnt/ 1'%rn lengths, then into bltons. Heat the butter and honey in a rarge
I 2
if
125ntl
/|-fl oz/%
egg yolks
frying pan until bubbling, then add the rhubarb in a single layer and gently for about 5 minures, turning carefulry, until softened but Drain in a sieve then spread out on a crean tea towel to absorb molsture' change the towei twice more. It is important
rhubarb thoroughly so that
,roast,
still whore.
excess
TO SERVE:
Dried Strawberries (page 187) (optionat)
Jus de Fraises (page 22)
demerara sugar, Jor sprinkling
to drain
trre
it
Meanwhile, line the base of six ramekin disrres with discs of greaseproof paper.whe'r the rhubarb is quite dry, clivide between the dishes, spreading the pieces neatlv over the bases.Arrange the ramekins on a baking sheet. 5 Slit the vanilla pods, scrape out the seeds and mix with the crear.n. put the
cream,
6 7
Meanwhile, in
to 120"C/225"F,/Gas Mark Low. When the cream mixture starts to boil and rise, pour it, in stages, onto the yolks, whisking continuousry. Stir in the caster sugar until it has arl
dis-
a paler shade
solved Strain through a fine sieve into a jug arrd discard the pods. 8 Pour a little of the custard over the rhubarb in the ramekins'anilla
and transrbr
has set enough to hold the rhubarb in piace. Pour in the renraining custard and cook for a further 4560 minures or until lightly set. The cusrard is ready whe n, if tippecl,
away siowly
9 l0
it comes frorr rhe sides of the mourd and is srightly wobbry in the centrc, cool, then chill until quite firm.To unmould, run a table k'ife round
a prate. Remove the paper discs. Sprinkle the custards with demerara sugar, then caramerize, either with a hand-he1d blowtorch, or by placing under a hot grill. Tuck the Dried Strar,v-
berries just beneath the top of each brrl6e and spoon round the |us t1e Fraises.
,"""f
ii:
:l::
,,:i:ril
t.i
rir'.1'l
lt tif
"' ,i ,, tl.
tlr.,..
i,
i-.-
lt,t ,r
,l;
yne can create, reflecting 6n origptarticularly appeals is the sheer uariety of ;flauours
becomes
At
o-f
our
teaspoons,
frozen mixtures into qwenelle shapes using or seruing as mowlds. But they (lre also impressiue enough to stand
stored ready for ,tlone: a selection of, sa!, three or four can be made ahead and sp,ntdneous seruing. If frozen ahead
in this
period
of around 10
for
minutes
at room temperature to
sufficiently
for ice-creams, and syrwps for sorbets' Intense cold can by preparing mixtures that dre _flauours and this must be compensated for
Crinte Anglaise
mask
'
Crdme anglaise
My tce-cRcRMs
ARE MADE By ADDTNG FLAVoURtNGs
ro A RlcH
BASE oF
OR
oz
/2 ups milk
wtrH
pRUNE
cREAt4. lce-cnenNs ARE BEsr cHURNED DURTNG FREEZTNG tN ELEcrRlc MACHINES WHICH BREAK DOWN ICE CRYSTALS EFFORTLESSLY INTO A
12
egg yolks
180g/6oz/l
stLKy TEXTURT. lN
lur
STRONG BALLOON
FLAVOURVARIATIONS:
Enough.for one quantity of Crime Anglaise:
RESULT
WILL NOT
BE AS SMOOTH
Vanifla lce-cream:
pods too.
sy
pods into the milk and crenm, and ddd the cnty'
I In a large heavy-based
ing. stirring occasionally. until the mirturc corncs jrrsr up to the boil.
Remove fronr the heat and allow the flavourings to infuse for 10 minutes.
- to steady the
pale
bowl
golden and you can drarv a figr,rre of eight across the surface.
Return the flavoured milk and creanl to the heat and bring back to the
boil.'When the mixture begins to creep up the sides of the pan,imrnediately remove from the heat and pour half of
":rOr:^*rO
-fr,esh
,ti
and sugar,
lve1l blended.
and
Jin,.
ltot'
Pour the custard mixture back into the pan and, on the lor,vest possible
until
the
at
l.east
mixture coats the back of the spoon and has a consistency similar to that
stage and when about three-quarters oJ the through thurning (the end qf step
rt.: t,
7), stir in
Strain the mixture into another bowl through a fine sieve, discarding
er bowl of iced water. Stir occasionally to prevenr a skin forming. Cool then chill L1ntil readv to freeze.
SHAPING QUENELLES
maker fol1ow the manufacturer's instrucTo
SERVE
a machine,beat the
AND
SHAPE BETWEEN
mixture by hand using a balloon whisk or a strong fork. Pour the chilled
nrixture into a shallow container and set in the coldest part ofthe fteezer,
TRAY.
Retunx
to tue
oN
nnv.TuevnReIHEN
As ice crystals begin to form around the edges, remove the container
a strong
into the rest of the mixture. Return to the freezer. Repeat this about 3-4 times. The ice-cream will gradually become stifTer, yet
rofter in texture. 8 'When the ice.cream is of a firm dropping consistency, cover and leave
it is required. If you have made the ice-cream ahead of rime and it is very firm, allow it to soften for about 10 minutes at room
rn the freezer until temDerature.
So
rbets
SIMPLE: sUGAR
ls DlssoLVED INwATER oR
boil, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the sugar has completely
dissoived. Raise the heat and iet the syrup
250g/9oz/1%
juice oJ 1 lime
Remove from the heat, add the Earl Grey tea bags and leave them to
infuse for 10 rninutes.Add the lime and lemon iuices then strain the liq-
uid into
3 Churn in an ice-cream
straight away or transfer to a freezer container and store in the freezer for
up to two weeks. Allow to soften slightly at room temperature before serving or shape into quenelles (above).
Blood-orange sorbet
I
hr
a laree,
INGREDIENTS
boil.:rirring gcrrtlr with a riooden spoon. until the sugrr har cornplctcly
dissolved. Raise the heat and let the syrup boil rapidlv for 5 nrinures.
or l5 smaller
10014/ 14oz /
ones)
add the orange and lemon juices, then strain. machine to a soft ice texture and either serve
sLtgdl
juitt
3 Churn in an ice-cream
juice oJ 7 lemon
straight away or transfer to a freezer colttainer and store in the freezer lbr
up to two rveeks. Allou' to soften slightly at roorn ternperature before serving or shape into quenelles (page 173).
Pineapple sorbet
I 2
Peel, core and chop the pineapple
Lr
a large,
boil. stirring gentlr- rvith a r,vooden spoon, until the sugar has completely
dissolved. Raise the heat and let the syrup boil r;pidlv for 5 rninures.
3 Stir in the 4
Chr-rrn
nrinutes.
250g/9oz/1%
Cool slightl1', then pur6e and strain. Cool conrpletelv and chill.
serve
straight a\vav or transfer to a lreezer container and store in the freezer for Llp
to two
serving or shape
Allotv to soften sliehtly at room teruperature before into quenelles (page 173).
A NEw
DtMENStoN
DARK AND
AND CREAMY.ALTUOUCI-I
SIMPLE
TO MAKE,
l0 smaller ones)
THIS ICE CAN ONLY BE MADE USING AN ELECTRIC ICE-CREAM MAKER WITH
ITS OWN BUILT.IN FREEZER UNIT.
1509/5oz/% tup
cdster sugar
li
Put the milk. rvater, sugar and glucose on to the hear, srirring until dis-
5 0g /
2oz
tablespoons
quid
glucose cocoa
,;
2 Remove from the heat and add the chocolate, srirring r-rntil smooth. 3 lleturn to the heat, bring back to the boil, then strain through a fine
sieve and leave
Pour into an electric ice-creat'u machine and churn until smooth and
soft fiozen texture. Cover and store until required.This can be shaped into quenelles for serving (page 173).
Parfaits
Yv
pnRrnrrs ARE
coMBrNATroN oF
A Mousse-rrre PAre R
BoMee,
OF
BEEN
rHrr
lN INDIVIDUAL
RAMEKINS, OR lN
r cAN
cAN
BE SERVED
cur
BE SHApED
Banana parfait
lN THE
wAFERS
RESTAURANT
cARAMEL
AND cocoA-BEAN
INGREDIENTS
1
%
x quantity
x quantity
pRESENTATToN
rr woRKS wELL
3 00ml
rse
GU,ZeO SUwVTR
FRUTTS
3 uery ripe
or
2
7
tablespoons
x quantity Bitter
They should be in
ror-rgh1y equal
Pite
Bombe
rvhisk
or pipe into
tin or a large freezer container. Freeze until firrn. 4 About J0 nrinutcs [cFor+ .eruirro tr rn\Gr rhe prrfuit fronr thc l-reezer
ranrekins, a long loaf
tn the refrioerrfor '"'__'_.-__-b.-_*'"_'
tip ,rt'.r
krrilc
around the edge of the mor-rld to ioosen it.'Wrap the nror-rld for several
in
cnritrq
This is where we can show ofJ without ouert boasting. These swbtle towches, which show louing care) dre
in
Dried Leeks to garnish Roasted Monkfish with Red Wine Sauce (Pogt 113) or
Strawberries
to
168) or,
use
as a finishing touch,
a great manY tions, adding a breathtaking finishing touch to simple desserts' There a{e mangoes and pineapples, but the fruits that yow cdn Ltse, including apples, strawberries' basic
same.
Shredded leeks
ONe
or
LEEK
ouR LtcHT
GARNtsHES
wHtcH ts
EAsy
ro
MAKE
tN euANTtry AND
INGREDIENTS
1 large leek
uegetable oil, for
(wutcn
MAKEsA
lor) survou
MAywtsHTo tNcREAsETHEAMouNT.
frying
I Tiim
the leek of roots and tops, then slit down to the centre without
cutting in half. Remove the inner section of the leek (use this in another
dish) leaving about 3-4 outer layers. the ieek layers inro 1,0cn/4in lengths and fold each section in rwo horizontally, i.e. the opposite way to its natural fold. Using a very sharp
cook's knife, shred finely. Repeat
2 cut
1eek.
Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and scatter the shreds roosely
over. Bake
in the oven
Low. If
it
or until the leek shreds feel dry and crisp, yet still retain a green colour.
heated
DElrcrous
sERVED As
GARNTsH
TO
THE SNINO
Or
RONSTEO LNNCOUSTITE
or
in
sea
diameter
I cut
in a colander,
cdster sugdr,
sprinkling each layer lighdy and evenly with sea salt and casrer sugar in equal proportions. Leave to d6gorge for 15 minutes so that any bitter juices are drawn out, leaving the slices limp.
oliue oil,Jorfrying
olive oil to give a depth of lcm/%tn. Heat the oil to about 170C/325"F and. fry the slices until crisp but not too brown. Drain on kitchen paper towels.
:'....j,
::
Drying fruits
loenlt.ITHE ovEN MUsr
BE sET AT
ARouNo 80"C/l70"F.Turs
SETTTNG ls
OFTEN LOWER THAN MANY DOMESTIC OVENS CAN MANAGE, UNLESS THE
MODEL
IS
ro
rrs LowEST
sETTTNG,
HELeFUL
To
HAVE
tN THE ovEN
To cHEcK
THE TEMpERATunr.
AlrgoucH
rAKE oNLy
cAN TAKE
ro
sucH As
STRAwBERRTES,
ro l8
gouRs, so BE pATTENT.THT rnurt MUsr BE sltcED THtNLy AND THE TOUCHING EACH OTHER ON BAKING
BAKTNG sHEETING
SHEETS
sucH AS Bnre-O-Gt-tor
MENT IS UNSUITABLE FOR THIS TECHNIQUE AS IT CAN GET WET CAUSING THE
FRUtr
ro sttcr. All
cAN
LARGE BATCHES
Apple castles
pRoresstoNAl KtrcHEN. wE FIND A usE FoR EVERyTHTNG - EVEN npple srtxs! THrs unv rAKE you BACK To youR cHtLDHooD WHEN you
lN
INGREDIENTS
j-4
TRIED TO PEEL AN APPLE IN ONE GO, WITH THE SKIN SWIRLING INTO A CONTINUOUS SPIRAL, EXCEPT THAT WE THEN DRY OUT THE SPIRAL AND CURL IT INTO AN ARTISTIC SCULPTURE.
juice of % Iemon
Peel the apples thinly in a quite narrow continuous spiral without break-
ing. Dip into a bowl filled with the Stock Syrup mixed with the lemon
lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting. Set the oven to its lowest
possible setting (see above) and leave the skins to dry for about 2)l hours.
2
up
To shape, kneei by the oven with a cooking rack in front ofyou. Pick
a
shape,
like a sculpture.This
will start to harden and crisp so you need to work quite fast. The curling process may take a little time to perfect, so persevere. Store in a large
airtisht container.
Apple tuiles
WT A
SERVE
THEsE
As A DEcoRATIoN FoR
SORBETS
DESSERTS
AND AS
AN
INGREDIENTS
ACCOMPANIMENT
TO
AND
2 Cranny Smith
apples
;a
RESEMBLTNG
AS THEy
ff s
!&
TO DO THE SLICING.
fi
I 2
Neatly core the apples, nraking sure the coring is quite cenrral. Pour
Using a nrandolin or a very sharp knife, cut the apples into slices about the lemon syrup to just coat, then arrange in a single
the Stock Syrr"rp into a bowl and mix with the lemon juice. 1mm//oin thick.
in
rolling pin to curl. If you renrove them all at once they will crisp before
you can curl them.Alternatively, if you have a French baguette tin, curl the
slices inside the tubes. However,
.r'iii
Dried strawberries
lr oruen FRUtrs cAN
BE DRTED, wHy
Nor
sTRAWBERRIEs?
ArreR sovE
oNE oF
MAKEs
INGREDIENTS
Large weII- shaped strawberries, hulled
pRESERVTNG
ron
eROLErs
AND tcE-cREAMs.
I Thinly
1ay
the large, middle slices out on baking sheets lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting. Make sure the slices don't touch each other.
14-18 hours untii crisp and dry.Test one by snapping it in half.The colour
have become more muted but the beautiful translucence more than makes up for it.
rnrrs
AND
A vERy
IS
vERSATTLE GARNIsH
INGREDIENTS 2-3
oranges
DISHES
I 2 3
Peel the oranges thinly, making sure there is no bitter pith attached to
the skin, and cut the peel into very fine julienne strips. Blanch the peel in boiling water for 1 minute, drain then refresh in cold
Pour the Stock Syrup into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the spoon, remove
4 Using a slotted
Syrup
and spread the strips out on a tray lined with non-stick silicone baking
sheeting. Place the tray in a very low oven, or a warm airing cupboard, for
KP
I88 GLOSSARY
G lossary
Aigre-doux A
sauce combining sweet
encased
Pov6 Literally, a slab, this is used to describe food cut into a neat shape, usually a square or rectangle, e.g. fish or
chocolate cake.
Amuse-gueule Literally, a mouth amusement, a bite-sized canap6 served at the very start of a meal to tease the palate.
Dariole Originally a small cake, now more often a term used to describe small individual moulds with sloping sides.
Deglaze To dilute pan juices produced when frying meats and vegetables, using
water. stock. vincgar or wine.
Beignet A
fried fritter.
Non-stick baking parchment Ovenproof silicone-coated material used to prevent food and mixtures from sticking during baking. Sold under several brand names including llakeO-Glide. Re-usable and durable, and great for home-dried fruits, as well
as
Blanch To dip fresh food briefly into boiling water to soften it on the outside whilst the centre remains crisp. Blanched food is often then'refreshed'in cold
water (see right).
tomatoes by sprinkling them with salt and sugar.This process a-1so softens them sulficiently for gentle frying.
Reduce To boil a liquid in an uncovered liquid evaporates, the flavour becomes more concentrated.
pan. As the
lnfuse To steep herbs, spices or other flavourings in a hot liquid so rhat rhey impart their delicate fragrance. Julienne Food, generally vegetables, cut into very thin strips. Named in honour
of an 18th-century Paris chef,Jean Julien.
until it
Liaison Combining thickening agents with a liquid, e.g. eggs and cream, flour
and milk.
Cassonade A custard with a burnt sugar topping. From the French word
cassant,
leaves,
meaning brittle.
membrane lining of a pig's stomach used in charcuterie and sausage-making. Used as a wrapping. it bathes ingredients in moisture, holds them together and leaves a delicate lacy pattern when cooked. Caul fat can be ordered in advance from speciaiity butchers and must be soaked before use.
Caul
normally associated with high-risc puff pastry desserts but now often used to describe finely layered foods.
Roast To cook food exposed to open fire or in the oven. In restaurant kitchens the term is also used to describe cooking in a hot. lighrly-oiled Frying pan. srarring on top of the stove, then sometrmes finishing in a hot oven.
Muslin Very fine, loosely woven cotton cloth used for wrapping foods or to line colanders and sieves for filtering liquids until very clear. It can be ordered through
kitchen mail-order companies.'Well worn, but clean, tea towels or disposable kitchen
cloths make suitable alternatives.
Quenelle Food shaped into an oval using 2 spoons.We shape rce-cream, whippcd cream and even rice pudding into decorative quenelles to make an excellent garnish.
Clarify To remove the solid deposits from liquids by straining through a cloth,
e o mc]fc.l hrrffPr
as
Saut6 To fry food quickly in a sma1l amount of hot oi1. From the French word sauter, to jump, which the food appears to do when rhe frying pan ir
shaken.
Nage From the French verb nager,to A light clear 'broth' or court-bouillon made with fish or vegetables.At the
swim.
vegetables.
Confit
Aubergine, we makeVegetable Nage each day and use it in conjunction with meat and fish stocks to lighten them without diluting the flavour. It is also a good allpurpose stock and very simple to make.
very gently in a covered pan. using only a small amount of oil so that beads ofsteam fa1l back onto the food to
baste and moisten
it during the
fresh
cooked very gent\ in fat or oil and then stored in the same fat or oil.
cooking process.
Noppe To coat food rhinJy and evenly with a sauce using a tabiespoon.The correct
technique is important! The sauce should
Turned
it
the food.