RESTAURANTS & CAFES Cafes

Bakery Bistro Colette B-5, P-ta Sfatului 27, tel. (+4) 0268 41 50 20.
Fresh bread, pastries and coffee served at the back of a courtyard just off the citys main square to a growing crowd of knowing customers. It has been popular since the day it opened and is the kind of place you discover by chance before telling all your friends to get here as soon as possible, Which is much the same way we feel. Brilliant. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. LNSW

RESTAURANTS & CAFES

Waldo Cafe B-4, Str. Sf. Ioan 11, tel. (+4) 0722 40 56 52, andreea@
covali.ro. Quiet cafe distinguished by an enormous picture of Brasov which takes up almost an entire wall. Good coffee and very good cakes, made on the premises. Friendly staff and a decent place to while away an afternoon. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. LW

RESTAURANTS & CAFES

RESTAURANTS & CAFES Italian

Prato B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 11, tel. (+4) 0268 47 33 67/(+4) 0720 44
44 22, eat@prato.ro, www.prato.ro. The best Italian restaurant in Brasov. Fine food served in superb surroundings on Str. Michael Weiss. The menu is extensive, and includes plenty of genuine Italian dishes, such as the trout with artichokes, or beef in balsamic vinegar. The lunchtime buffet is somewhat irresistible, an in the right weather the terrace is splendid. Q Open 10:00-24:00 PVSW

RESTAURANTS & CAFES

towards the city centre it is a good place to start. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PLSW

PUBS, BARS & CLUBS

Restaurant Casa Romaneasca A-6, Piata Unirii 15, tel. (+4) 0268 51

Cake Shops
Chez Manu C-4, Str. 15 Noiembrie 52, tel. (+4) 0268 47 09 17/(+4) 0724
89 46 43, www.chezmanu.ro. Cakes ready to go or made to order from Brasovs leading bakery. Its madness in here on a Saturday morning as half the city comes to collect its wedding cakes: each higher and more impressive than the other. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. LVSW

Ceai et caetera B-5, Str. Castelului 37, tel. (+4) 0372 74 17 45/(+4) 0732
16 17 29, www.ceaietc.ro. Just like taking tea at your favourite aunts house. A great place to spend your time. Tucked away on Castelului, this tea house/cafe has tea - as you would imagine - in abundance, as well as all sorts of things to make you feel at home, such as a book shelf packed with readable tomes, art, gifts, souvenirs and all sorts. Et caetera, basically. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. GSW

Romanian
www.butoiul-sasului.ro. Marvellous cellar restaurant serving up authentic Saxon cuisine at ludicrously low prices. Live music almost every night keeps the punters happy, but it is the food you will return for. Go for the pui la ceaun (deep fried chicken) or the ciolan afumat (smoked pork knuckle, served with beans) It can be a bit smokey but that is our only complaint.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PLVES

38 77. If you have had enough of Piata Sfatului, then the quieter, more serene charms of Piata Unirii await. The Casa Romaneasca - which stands right on the square - is a great place to eat, offering good local food in a wonderful, classic Brasov house. The interior courtyard is fabulous and the place is traditional without ever over-doing it.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PENSW

Butoiul Sasului B-5/4, Str. Republicii 53-55, tel. (+4) 0268 41 04 99,

Sergiana B-4, Str. Muresenilor 27, tel. (+4) 0268 41 97 75, www.sergia-

French
Poarta Schei 4 B-5, Str. Poarta Schei 4, tel. (+4) 0743 23 67 33, (+4)
0268 51 18 38, www.poartaschei4.ro. Wow. French and then some. If you want rabbit with rhubarb or duck with cherries in Brasov then you best get yourself here. No fewer than 10 champagnes on the wine list (including La Grande Dame), occasional live music and all in gorgeous surroundings. Its very, very good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PSW

nagrup.ro. If you are looking for traditional Transylvanian food then this is about the best place in the city. A vast cellar packed with a number of different dining rooms, the food is simple and tasty. Expect loads of stews, sweet ciorbe and a great ciolan cu fasole. Good selection of local wines too. Q Open 11:00-01:00. PSW

Il Caffe A-5, Str. Gheorghe Baritiu 28, tel. (+4) 0371 40 76 26. Small, has
no terrace, but It is still nice, as the windows are so big it almost feels as though you are sitting out on the street. Try the good coffee, the big range of teas and the huge, bargain-priced fruit salads. Q Open 08:00-23:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. PN

Seven Pots B-5/4, Str. Mihail Sadoveanu 1, tel. (+4) 0268 41 12 11, www.

La Republique B-5, Str. Republicii 33, tel. (+4) 0744 35 16 68. This place

sticks to the old mantra do one thing, and do it very well. At La Republique that one thing is pancakes. There are more varieties than you could care to ever eat, and they are all cooked fresh. Theres coffee and juice to go with them. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PLB

International
Bellagio B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 18, tel. (+4) 0268 41 27 95/(+4) 0722
21 79 73, bellagio@bellagio.ro, www.bellagio.ro. Its been a winner for years this place. Good Italian food - such as the almost exemplary carpaccio - is made all the better by the friendly, smiley service from two happy little waitresses. The vaguely nautically-themed interior betrays the sea-loving owners past career on a cruise ship. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. PVSW of local, fresh ingredients but doing so with real aplomb. Try the supa de cartofi (potato soup): you will not taste any as good anywhere else in Transylvania. Great shaded terrace in summer, though the interior is worthy of a peek too. Find it at the rear of the Cerbul Carpatin building. Q Open 09:00-24:00. PVESW

casamuresan.ro. Fine, fresh and surprisingly inventive food served with a smile in bright, airy surroundings by the good people at the Casa Muresan hotel. If you are in Brasov and stuck for ideas it is well worth a try. The breakfast is open to all comers - not always the case in this town and worthy of commendation. A wedding and christening favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. PLSW

Casa Muresan A-3/B-2, Str. Nicopole 54, tel. (+4) 0268 41 43 73, www.

sevenpots.ro. Seven pots of fantastic home made food - with the menu changing more or less daily - await hungry punters looking for a genuine, bargain-priced taste of the city. You can take away or eat at one of the counters. The cakes are a bit special too, we might add, and our only complaint is that it shuts too early and is not open at weekends! Otherwise, faultless: make it your first stop for a Brasov lunch. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PVGSW

Casa Padurarului B-6, Aleea Tiberiu Brediceanu 2, tel. (+4) 0268 41 56

Serbian
Taverna Sarbului B-4, Str. Republicii 55, tel. (+4) 0268 41 02 22, www.
tavernasarbului.ro. The first restaurant (beyond McDonalds) you hit when approaching Republicii from the south, you can save yourself a walk by simply stopping and dining here. The food is a decent mix of local and the Serbian, the meatballs in particular are a good mix of tangy and tasty. Q Open 12:00-24:00. VEBS

La Vatra Ardealului A-5, Str. Gheorghe Baritiu 14, tel. (+4) 0268 47

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77 51. Brilliant coffee and cake shop just north of Piata Sfatului. Your mouth will water at the sight of such sweet treats, from tasty little pastries to giant wedding cakes (apparently half the city orders its cakes from here). We love the colourful flowers placed on the tables; a very classy touch. Q Open 09:30-21:00, Sun 10:30-19:30. PNG

19. So well hidden is this place that you get the impression it does not want to be found. It is behind the Bastionul Tesatorilor, in a leafy setting amongst the trees on the lower slopes of Mount Tampa. Speciality of the house is game and though it is not brilliant the setting alone makes it a good choice, especially if you want a secret lunch with someone you shouldnt be seen with. Q Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. LS

Cerbul Carpatin B-5, Piata Sfatului 12-14 (Str. Apollonia Hirscher), tel. (+4)

Musik Cafe & Fusion Club B-5, Str. Republicii 42, tel. (+4) 0732 55 77

55/(+4) 0724 31 80 79, www.musikcafe.ro. Decent pub and cafe in a gang off Republicii opposite La Republique. The cafe/pub is one the ground floor (and there is a beer garden in the summer) while upstairs is Fusion, a separate venue under the same management. The biggest difference is probably the music: Musik Cafe is more rock oriented, Fusion more jazz, funk and reggae. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 05:00. EW

Classic Inn A-6, Str. Tibles 7-9, tel. (+4) 0268 51 22 44, www.classic-inn.

Open Heart A-4, Drumul Poienii, tel. (+4) 0748 09 33 36. Gorgeous little

ro. A classic (what else would you expect) restaurant of the new school offering fine food and fine service in a brilliant setting above Schei. The tables by the big windows have superb vistas. Very popular as a wedding venue, on Saturdays it is a good idea to phone ahead to check if its open. Q Open 13:00-23:00. PLSW

0728 11 10 00, www.cerbulcarpatin.com. In a building that dates from the 1540s, the Cerbul Carpatin is the most famous restaurant in the city. It remains the top choice of foreign tourists and coach parties, offering fine Transylvanian food and a bit of an enjoyable program folcloric. Good place to try a variety of Romanian wines: you can order by the glass, and the cellar is well stocked with barrels of vin brought from every wine making region in the country. Q Open 08:00-01:00. PESW

PUBS, BARS & cLUBS

42, www.deanes.ro. With some kind of event on almost every night of the week, be it the all-conquering karaoke night, or Haydn Deane and his Big Band swinging out the hits, Deanes is a one-stop shop for food, drink and good times. Sensational food, such as Haydns Humble Shepherds Pie, Alinas Spicy Chilli and a couple of great curries will ensure you are well fed, while to drink there is (besides much else) what we and many others consider to be the citys very best Guinness. Reservations essential at weekends if youve designs on sitting down. Will have a big terrace on Republicii once the weather is good enough. Q Open 10:00-01:00. PEKSW

Gott Restaurant & Pub B-5, Str. Johann Gott 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 22
03, fax (+4) 0268 47 22 04, www.hotel-gott.ro. Terrific pub and restaurant, open a couple of years now and firmly installed as one of the citys default youre going to get your moneys worth locations. Besides sampling the more than 300 different types of alcohol on offer (we have to admit to not trying them all, yet) do not forget to go for the homemade burger. We did, and it was sensational. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLESW

Deanes Irish Pub & Grill B-5, Str. Republicii 19, tel. (+4) 0268 47 45

Gustari B-5, Piata Sfatului 14, tel./fax (+4) 0268 47 53 65, tel. (+4) 0723

tea house and cafe on the road to Poiana Brasov, with some of the best views over Brasov you could ever hope for. You will need a car to get here, however: find it at the first Belvedere. The nearest bus stop (on route No. 20 up to Poiana) is a fair old walk away. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PLEGW

Festival 39 B-5, Str. Republicii 62, tel. (+4) 0268 47 86 64, (+4) 0743 Bella Muzica B-5, Piata Sfatului 19, tel. (+4) 0268 47 79 46, www.bellamuzica.ro. This restaurant began life as a music shop (still going, upstairs) and has now become a hotel (the most popular in the city centre). The restaurant is downstairs in the cellar, and is a great place packed with locals who use it like a dining room. You will not find - as the name suggests - Italian food, instead Mexican and Hungarian are the unlikely but not unsatisfactory bed partners on the menu. Q Open 12:00-24:30. PS

Paris Croissant Bistro Cafe B-5, P-ta Sfatului 6, tel. (+4) 0268 47 59 45,
www.pensiuneadavinci.ro. In a city that boasts a number of great patisseries, this could well be the best of the lot. Located right on Piata Sfatului it offers fresh, tasty pastries of all kinds from early in the morning until late at night. Good coffee and tea too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PSW impressive cafe and bar upstairs in a Republicii house, which has that rare ability to change its clothes as the day wears on, seamlessly transforming from morning coffee venue to evening cocktails. Hosts events regularly: a mix of things from live music to book launches. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PW

33 99 09, www.festival39.com. Perhaps the most famous bar ever to open in Brasov, now in an improved location on Republicii (it used to be on Strada Muresenilor). Whats more it is bigger and better than ever and is no more a mere bar: expect the usual mix of cocktails and coffee to now be accompanied by fine food too (the ciolan de purcelus - piglet knuckle - is terrific). You could spend all day in here in fact, from breakfast to nightcap. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. SW

15 99 91, www.restaurant-piatasfatului.ro. Situated on Brasovs main square, Sirena Gustari - as it is officially called - offers good cheap Romanian food. The atmosphere inside is cosy and warm: try and bag a seat by the window for maximum effect, and tuck into one of the specials, such as the pastrama de oaie (mutton marinated in a home made sauce).Q Open 08:30 - 23:30. VNBSW www.bucatarulvesel.ro. The name means Happy Cook, though we arent sure the accountant will be too happy given the stupidly cheap prices for big portions of great home-cooked food. Great deep fried chicken wings, perfect ceafa de porc, and a brilliant ciorba de legume. The interior is welcoming if plain and the staff terrific. Value for money like this is rare in Romania. Q Open 11:00-24:00. S

Green Saloon Pub & Grill B-5, Str. Muresenilor 11-13, tel. (+4) 0268

La Bucatarul Vesel B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 33, tel. (+4) 0268 41 88 93,

47 73 17, www.greensaloon.ro. One of those Brasov pubs that always has something up its sleeve. From live music and karaoke to football on television and darts, Green Saloon is a decent pub and grill serving plenty of draught beer and some good food. Open from ten in the morning for breakfast, there is always a good lunch deal on too. Top marks for the bar which is a wonder of wood and really looks the part. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00. PNSW

Rahmen Club & Bar B-4, Str. Sf. Ioan 11, tel. (+4) 0731 09 96 49, www.
rahmen.ro. In an alley off Strada Sf. Ioan (itself off Republicii) this club is a decent choice for a raucous night out. Drinks are well enough priced, theres a good karaoke night on Wednesdays, and at weekends expect anything and everything, from live acts to DJs playing a mix of music from the past and present. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Wed 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. PESW

Keller Steak House B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 22

Publick Cafe B-5, Str. Republicii 1, tel. (+4) 0730 27 38 42. A new and

Belvedere A-4, Str. Stejerisului 11, tel. (+4) 0268 41 55 75, www.restaurantbelvedere.ro. By common consent, the best restaurant in Brasov. Found in the Belvedere hotel, in an enviable location above the city, the food here is truly exceptional. The inventive menu, featuring treats such as lamb encrusted with caremelized nuts or the duck with shaved almonds, is well priced given how good the food is. Add in a great view, silver service and great wines and you quickly see why it is the best of the best. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PLSW

78, www.kellersteakhouse.ro. On a street packed with average pizza/pasta joints this genuine steak house serves big juicy bits of beef, lamb, veal and pork cooked as you like and served with a good choice of grilled veggies. We like the (not cheap - in fact quite expensive - but good) surf and turf, while the lamb chops in Dijon mustard went down very well. Q Open 09:00-24:00. SW

Old Center Bistro C-4, Str. Nicolae Balcescu 67, tel. (+4) 0268 41 91 00,
www.oldcenterbistro.ro. Set in a small cellar near the Star department store, the Old Centre Bistro has a simple menu, colourful atmosphere and unpretentious staff. If you are looking for something a little less fitze than whats on offer further

Studio 80 B-5, Str. Muresenilor 11-13, tel. (+4) 0743 58 94 33, stuDowntown B-5, Piata Sfatului 12-14 (Str. Apollonia Hirscher), tel. (+4) 0735

Paradis B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 12, tel. (+4) 0268 47 11 35. Wonderfully located on the corner of Stradas Apollonia Hirscher and Poarta Schei, grab a table by the window and settle in for a long lunch or dinner in the cosiest of surroundings. The food is very good: nothing too fancy and flash, just simple, home cooking a level or two above the Brasov norm. Best of all though are the desserts: the sweet counter is a feast of treats, each more tempting than the next. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00. PSW

Bistro de lArte B-5, P-ta George Enescu 11 bis, tel. (+4) 0722 21 99 80,

www.bistrodelarte.ro. A legend in these parts, Bistro de lArte has been going since 2000, a lifetime in Brasov, and still pulls in the punters. Serving good French food (the menu changes daily) there is more than grub on offer: the place serves as something of an arts centre and puts on exhibitions, hosts book launches and even the occasional concert in the evenings. Good lemonade and free Wifi are bonuses. Q Open 09:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-24:00. PESW

80 80 80, www.club-downtown.ro. Wow! You will not believe what they have done with this place. Looking very much the business this pub/club is a lively venue offering something to do more or less every night of the week. Serving drinks at decent prices and already boasting a lively, friendly crowd of regulars expect to find a good atmosphere whatever the day of the week. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. PW

diooptzeci@gmail.com, www.studio80.ro. So called because what you are going to hear in this place is music primarily from the 1980s. The decor (including the fantastic DJ booth) is also straight out of the 1980s, while the crowd is a pleasant mix of ages that comes to dance to the 1980s hits. Cocktails are good and all priced from 14-18 lei. Regular visitors may remember this place as Club Harley: it is the same location. QOpen 22:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:30 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PENW

Sirul Vamii B-5, Str. Muresenilor 18, tel. (+4) 0268 47 77 25, rezervari@

Times Pub B-4, B-dul Eroilor 17, tel. (+4) 0736 73 73 73. Big pub and

Casa Hirscher B-5, Piata Sfatului 12-14 (Str. Apollonia Hirscher), tel. (+4)
0268 41 05 33, www.casahirscher.ro. Exquisite restaurant competing with Prato for title of the citys best. The food is in fact brilliantly simple, making use

sirulvamii.ro, www.sirulvamii.ro. This is actually a restaurant/basement bar rolled into one. The restaurant serves top quality traditional Romanian and Transylvanian food (including seafood) with prices that make you know youre having a little treat. They do a very good saramura de crap with mamaliga (carp in a sour sauce with polenta). QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PVESW

Formula Pub B-4, B-dul Eroilor 29, tel. (+4) 0268 41 41 13, www.formu-

lapub.ro. In a cellar quite literally underneath the citys main university, this place is not unsurprisingly popular with students, at least during term time. Its been given a bit of refit of late and is looking better than ever. Should be joined by a big terrace out on the street as soon as the weather is good enough. Guinness on tap. Q Open 08:30 - 24:00. PSW

live music venue in the Modarom building (thats the round one at the bottom of Strada Republicii). Theres a big bar which means getting served never takes too long, and the crowd that comes here is a mix of all sorts: young and old, rich and students. Besides the good local bands who play here, theres a regular and very popular karaoke night (usually Wednesday). QOpen 17:00 04:00. PENW

ACTIVE BRASOV
Ice Skating Rink (Patinoar Olimpic Brasov) D-1, Parcul Sportiv Brasov,
tel. (+4) 0368 44 22 41. Romanias only modern ice rink (it opened in 2010) is just behind Brasov station. Usually open to the public every evening, you can skate here cheaper than anywhere else in the country. Also serves as the home of Brasovs ice hockey team. Q Open 18:00 - 19:50, 20:10 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 10:50, 14:00 - 15:50, 16:10 - 18:00, 18:20 - 20:10, 20:30 - 22:30. Opening hours are subject to change at short notice. Entrance 10 lei, skate hire is also 10 lei. 44 01 35, www.paradisulacvatic.ro. The best aquapark in Romania. Open all year round around Paradisul Acvatic offers big pools, slides of varying scariness, a proper Olympic-sized pool for serious swimmers, diving boards, saunas, steam rooms and Turkish baths: and all for one entrance fee and all under one enormous glass dome. You can swim while admiring the spectacular mountain scenery. In summer there is an outside pool too, and a huge sun terrace for those who want to work on their tans.Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon 14:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 lei/2hours, 55 lei/whole day; children (age 2-10) 25 lei/day, children under two free.

BRASOVS MUSEUMS Museums

Art Museum (Muzeul de Arta Brasov) B-4, B-dul Eroilor 21, tel. (+4)
0268 47 72 86, www.muzeulartabv.ro. One of Romanias best art museums, and well worth the cheap admission price. The upper floor is a whos who of Romanian 20th century painting, with all the big names, including Theodor Pallady, Nicolae Grigorescu, Stefan Luchian and Horia Bernea well represented. Climb down into the cellar and view beautiful European crystal and porcelain as well as a large collection of Oriental vases and statuettes from China, Tibet and Old Persia. Q Open (October - March) 09:00 - 17:00, (April - September) 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.00 lei (temporary exhibitions 3.00 lei), pensioners 2.5 lei, children and students 1 leu.

WHERE TO STAY

POIANA BRASOV Poiana Brasov Skiing

There are now 23km of pistes in Poiana, enough to keep a good skier happy for a day or two at a time. Though none of the runs are particularly difficult (the one black run, Lupului, will pose no major problems to a decent skier) some are quite steep, and given that the snow at Poiana can often be very icy, skiing here can sometimes offer something of a challenge. It is beginners who have the best of things at Poiana however, with a large wide nursery slope, and a long easy blue run that descends from the very top of the resort to the bottom. There are also a couple of excellent ski schools. Lift passes cost 135 lei per day. You can buy them at the gondola station or at the cable car. The resorts recent investment in snow making equipment and piste-maintenance machines - as well as record snowfalls this year - should keep at least some slopes open well into April.

AROUND BRASOV

AROUND BRASOV
Feldioara
In the early 13th century, German knights returning from the crusades understood the potential wealth of the region, and hung around. They built their central castle on a hill overlooking the plain, 19km north of Brasov. A 4m thick wall, a moat and four towers (of which the western one is the oldest) were not enough to prevent the Mongols and Turks from destroying the castle, and after restorations an earthquake in 1838 did heavy damage. Since then, it has been in ruins. When the knights were kicked out of the country in 1225 by the Hungarian king, they moved to Prussia in Northern Europe, where they immediately built a new, grander castle, also called Marienburg (Malbork, see Gdnsk In Your Pocket on the In Your Pocket website for details). The unguarded ruins can be explored by foot and can also be admired from the left hand side of a train running from Brasov to Sighisoara.

Paradisul Acvatic B-dul Grivitei 2F, tel. (+4) 0268 44 00 70, fax (+4) 0268

For full reviews and price information, see inyourpocket.com/romania/brasov

Sightseeing Around Brasov

Bran Castle (Castelul Bran)
Str. Traian Mosoiu 24, tel. (+4) 0268 23 77 00, office@bran-castle.com, www.bran-castle.com. Absolutely not Draculas Castle, Bran really does look the part, as though it ought to be Draculas Castle. The truth is that Vlad the Impaler (Vlad epe) - the inspiration behind part of the Dracula myth - never spent much time here. The ruins of his real castle are at Poienari, on the other side of the Carpathians. Perched on a rock, strategically overlooking one of the most important mediaeval trading routes in this part of Europe, Bran is certainly impressive - even scary - from afar. And while Romanians are quick to point out that Bran Castle has indeed little to do with our fanged friend, youll notice quickly that the local tourist authorities have become experts in making innocent tourists believe otherwise. The castle was constructed in 1377 to guard the mountain pass and to levy a tax on all merchants passing through. The castle was for a long time the property of the city of Brasov, but in 1921 it was offered as a summer residence to Romanias Queen Marie. She planted the apple trees in the field below the castle, as well as a flower garden with more than 200 varieties of dahlias which, just like the monarchy, didnt survive socialism. Inside the castle you can wander through the intriguing maze of corridors, staircases and sparsely decorated rooms. Mind your head. As signposting is minimal, youll just have to guess what the different rooms were for. From the windows and balconies there are good views of the valley, the snowy mountains around, and the tiny but picturesque courtyard. The 57metre deep well has been closed off, though many people still throw coins in for good luck. Recent geological surveys showed that the Dietrichstein rock the castle is built on could crumble during an earthquake, so for the past few years workers have been reinforcing the rock by drilling holes for steel cables straight through it. Next to the entrance is a small open air museum with buildings moved here from villages surrounding Bran. On the other side of the castle, the small customs museum (Muzeul Vama Medievala) can be entered on the same ticket. There are few English captions, but the helpful staff can tell you more about the collection of photos, maps and weapons on display. Near the castle are various markets (one subtly called Bazar Dracula) selling woolly sweaters, Dracula junk and delicious local cheeses, smoked or wrapped in bark. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00. Admission 20 lei (photography fee included), seniors 15 lei, students 5-10 lei, video cameras 20 lei. From May 1st tickets will cost 25 lei. There is a regular (hourly) bus service to Bran from Brasovs Autogara No. 2 (A-1). Tickets cost 4 lei and can be bought from the driver. A taxi from Brasov to Bran will cost around 50 lei.

Hotels
Alinalex B-dul Grivitei 2F, tel. (+4) 0268 44 00 10. Ambient C-4, B-dul Iuliu Maniu 27, tel. (+4) 0268 47 17 47. Apollonia C-4, Str. Neagoe Basarab 7, tel. (+4) 0268 47 61 63. Aro Palace B-4, B-dul Eroilor 27, tel. (+4) 0268 47 88 00. Bella Muzica B-5, Piata Sfatului 19, tel. (+4) 0268 47 79 56. Casa Muresan B-2, Str. Nicopole 54, tel. (+4) 0268 41 43 73, (+4)

Open (March) 09:00 - 16:30, Closed Mon, (April-May) 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 7.00 lei, children, groups 1.50 lei.

Bastionul Tesatorilor (Weavers Bastion) B-5/6, Str. George Cosbuc 9, tel. (+4) 0268 47 23 68. See Brasov Fortifications for full description. Q

Getting there

Parc Aventura Cartier Noua, Zona lac Noua, tel. (+4) 0755 08 55 55, www.

parc-aventura.ro. Set over two and a half acres of forest, this adventure park is brilliant for kids and adults. There are daredevil swings and slides, tunnels, assault courses and all sorts of other activites for grown-ups and kids. In all there are more than 100 activities and eight different trails (one of which welcomes children as young as four years old). You will find it opposite the zoo (follow the signs for the zoo from Calea Bucuresti). The turn-off is just past Metro if coming from the city. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri (March), 10:00 - 19:00 (April), 10:00 - 20:00 (May). Admission (3hrs) adults 37 lei, students 32 lei, children 8-11 years 27 lei, children 4-7 years 21 lei.

Casa Muresenilor B-5, Piata Sfatului 25, tel./fax (+4) 0268 47 78 64,

www.muzeulmuresenilor.ro. Quirky and charming would well describe this unusual family museum situated across from Brasovs central square. The Casa Muresenilor is a memorial to the talented artistic family of Jacob Muresan, a teacher who sensibly married into good looks and money and in 1838 became founding editor of the romantically titled Gazeta Transilvaniei. The museum is housed in the dynastic home, and features letters, photographs, heirlooms and keepsakes of the musical, literary and military members and in-laws of the clan Muresan. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon, Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 4.50 lei, students and children 1.50 lei. Eroilor 21A, tel. (+4) 0268 47 62 43, www.etnobrasov.ro. Step back into the past and view Romanian folk costumes accompanied by black and white photographs which illustrate exactly how they were worn and by whom. The museum also shows the evolution of weaving from an old spinning wheel to a mechanised loom which is still operational. Authentic Romanian crafts such as hand carved crosses and emroidered shirts are on sale in the lobby. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 1.50 lei.

Ethnographic Museum (Muzeul de Etnografie Brasov) B-4, B-dul

0744 57 84 99. Capitol B-5, B-dul Eroilor 19, tel. (+4) 0268 41 89 20. Casa Tepes C-4, Str. Tepes 14, tel. (+4) 0268 41 39 17. Casa Wagner B-5, Piata Sfatului 5, tel. (+4) 0268 41 12 53. Chambersn Charm Str. Stejerisului 27, tel. (+4) 0268 51 29 92. City Center C-4, Str. Traian Grozavescu 4, tel. (+4) 0268 41 75 83. Classic Inn A-6, Str. Tibles 7-9, tel. (+4) 0372 77 78 89. Coroana B-5/4, Str. Republicii 62, tel. (+4) 0268 47 74 48. Coroana Brasovului A-6, Str. Vasile Saftu Protopop 1, tel. (+4) 0268 51 38 66. Gott B-5, Str. Johann Gott 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 22 03. Pantex C-5, Str. Dobrogeanu Gherea 4C, tel. (+4) 0733 00 76 76. Postavarul B-5, Str. Politehnicii 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 74 48. Ramada Calea Bucuresti 13, tel. (+4) 0268 50 80 09.

There is really only one way to get to Poiana Brasov, and that is by car. Driving the 12 kilometres from Brasov takes no more than 20 minutes, though it depends on traffic and the weather. Brasovs taxi drivers will be happy to take you, but will charge you around 35 lei for their trouble. Getting a taxi back into Brasov is a far more troubling and often far more expensive - experience. There is also a public bus service to Poiana (No. 20) which leaves every half an hour from the Livada Postei bus stop on the corner of B-dul Eroilor and Str. Dupa Ziduri. A standard Brasov transport ticket is all you need.

Harman

The proud church tower of Harman, 12km north of Brasov, is visible for kilometres around on the windswept plain; four small turrets warn visitors that the authorities were allowed to sentence criminals to death. Seven towers dot the 12m high ring wall, and one of the towers (formerly used as a chapel, now bricked up, waiting for renovations) boasts valuable medieval frescoes. Inside the church, the elaborate altar was donated by Swedish king Karl XII in the 17th century, who took refuge here with his soldiers during a wild goose-chase through Europe after a lost battle in Russia. The walls used to be lined with refuge cells for local families, but the stones were needed for local administration buildings. The shelters for the local nobility and their families (mayor, priest, doctor, notary) are perched on the walls of the church itself. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Prejmer

Poiana Brasov Food & Drink

Coliba Haiducilor Poiana Brasov, tel. (+4) 0268 26 21 37. A must on any trip to Poiana, Coliba serves traditional Romanian food in a wooden building close to the ski slopes. Sit at one of the long wooden tables and have a second look at the decoration: guns, dried peppers and cobs of corn and lots of skins (boars, sheep, wolves and one bear). Order the bors de miel (lamb soup) which comes with half a lambs skull. Wash it down with a tuica (plum brandy), served in a blue ceramic tree trunk. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PLEBW Vntorul Poiana Brasov, tel. (+4) 0268 26 23 54. www.restaurant-vanatorul.ro. Theres upmarket food to be had at this place, which sits proudly at the foot of the mountains. The interior has a rustic-modern feel the way that some Romanian restaurants can get away with. Dishes include sausages made from wild boar and bear meat. Splendid terrace. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00 PLEBSW

Pensions
Brasovu Vechi A-6, Str. Constantin Lacea 12, tel. (+4) 0368 44 60 16. Casa Albert B-5, Str. Republicii 38, tel. (+4) 0722 88 60 54. Casa Cranta B/C-4, Str. Mr. Cranta 3A, tel. (+4) 0268 47 69 92. Casa Kermany B-5, Str. Nicolae Balcescu 26, tel. (+4) 0368 43 60 68. Dolce Far Niente B-4, Str. Lupeni 11, tel. (+4) 0268 41 36 94. Montana Guest House A-5, Str. Stejerisului 2A, tel. (+4) 0268 47 27 31. Old City A-6, Piata Unirii 12 bis, tel. (+4) 0368 43 61 56. Pensiunea Da Vinci B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 4, tel. (+4) 0268 41 55 30. Pensiunea Italiana A-3, Str. Lunga 70, tel. (+4) 0268 47 60 01. Pensiunea Mury B-3, Str. De Mijloc 62, tel. (+4) 0268 41 87 40. Pensiunea Natural B-5, Str. Castelului 58, tel. (+4) 0744 32 12 73. Pensiunea Noemi B-4, Str. Sfantul Ioan 2, tel. (+4) 0722 12 25 88. Pensiunea Stejeris A-5, Str. Stejarisului 15, tel. (+4) 0268 47 62 49. Residence Hirscher B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 14, tel. (+4) 0368 40 12 12. Villa Prato A-4, Str. Stefan Octavian Iosif 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 33 71.

First Romanian School Museum (Prima Scoala Romaneasca) A-6,

Piata Unirii 2-3, tel. (+4) 0722 43 51 34, www.primascoalaromaneasca.ro. For full description see Schei & the Junii. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 5.00 lei, children 3.00 lei.

Directory Health & Pharmacies

Help Net B-5, Piaa Sfatului 7, tel. (+4) 0368 45 60 89, www.helpnet. ro. Modern chemist on Brasovs main square.Q Open 08:00-21:00, Sat, Sun
09:00-18:00. Also at Str. Republicii 18, Str. Grivitei 47, Str. Muresenilor 18.

33, tel. (+4) 0268 47 23 63, www.istoriebv.ro. See Piata Sfatului & History Museum. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7.00 lei, children, groups 1.50 lei.

History Museum (Muzeul Judetean de Istorie Brasov) B-5, Piata Sfatului

One of Eastern Europes best preserved fortified churches lies 16km northeast of Brasov. Surrounding a cross-shaped church (originally built by the Teutonic knights) are walls 12m high and 4m thick that protected the church and Prejmers inhabitants during times of war, when each family would retreat into its own room. Wheat and smoked hams - stored in the towers - were sufficient to support the whole village during long sieges. The entrance is a separate fortress with portcullis, complete with holes once used for pouring boiling tar on would be invaders. A deep moat and drawbridge once surrounded the fortress. Prejmer was often the front-line, it being the most north-eastern Saxon settlement, but although Prejmer was attacked more than 50 times by Mongols, Turks, Tartars, Cossacks and Moldavians, the fortified church was overwhelmed only once. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. There are six trains a day from Brasov to Prejmer (take any train heading for Intorsura Buzaului), the journey taking just 20 minutes. A taxi from Brasov to Prejmer costs from 30-40 lei.

SensiBlu B-5, B-dul Republicii 58, tel. (+4) 0268 47 44 39, www. sensiblu.com. Friendly, modern chemists. Q Open 08:00-22:00, Sat, Sun
10:30-18:30. Many other locations around the city.

Spitalul Clinic de Urgenta (Emergency Hospital) Calea Bucuresti 2527, tel. (+4) 0268 32 00 22. Brasovs main emergency hospital. English spoken by almost all of the excellent staff. You will be in good hands. Q Open 24hrs.

Sfatului 15-16, tel. (+4) 0268 47 55 65. Brasovs newest museum takes a fascinating look at the history of urban civilisation from the 17th century onwards, with the focus being of course on Brasov itself, and its role as a meeting point of east and west in its Saxon heyday. Set over four levels in a fantastic building dating from the 1600s (and which, lovingly renovated, is worth the entrance fee on its own) the exhibition boasts captions in four languages, as well as knowledgeable, approachable and multi-lingual staff happy to answer any questions and fill i any gaps. It is a joy to visit. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7.00 lei, students 2.5 lei. Copyright notice
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Museum of Urban Civilisation (Muzeul Civilizatiei Urbane) B-5, Piata

Rasnov Fortress (Cetatea Rasnov)

Junii din Scheii Brasovului

On the first Sunday after Easter (this year on April 22) Brasov celebrates Junii din Scheii Brasovului, the centrepiece of which is a colourful horseback parade. The origins of Junii go back at least as far as the 18th century, though the modern Junii celebrations in fact date from the end of the 19th century, when the various groups of Junii (Junii meaning, literally, young men) were formed. The celebration is mix of both Pagan spring and Christian Easter rituals. The parade (pictured on our front cover) begins at 10:00 in (A-6) Piata Unrii, in Scheii (which in the past stood outside the walls of Brasov), and makes its way into Brasov along Strada Gheorghe Baratiu and Strada Muresenilor, before turning right and heading back out of the city along Strada Nicolae Balcescu, exiting the city through Poarta Scheii. The parade then carries on to Solomon's Rocks (Pietrele lui Solomon) where the biggest party of the year is held until late in the evening: expect traditional dancing, music, food and drink. The best place to see the parade is (B-4/5) Strada Muresenilor, but note that the whole city turns out to watch: get up early if you want to get a good viewing spot.

Queen Maries Chapel, Bran

Hostels
Kismet Dao C-4, Str. Neagoe Basarab 8, tel. (+4) 0268 51 42 96. Liberty Villa A-6, Str.Democratiei 2B, tel. (+4) 0736 86 64 38.

Shopping Centre & Cinema

Eliana Mall Str. Bazaltului 2, tel. (+4) 0268 40 79 00, www.elianamall.
ro. Brasovs biggest shopping mall, and home to the citys only multiplex cinema: CityPlex. If coming by public transport take bus 15 or 16 from Livada Postei to Stadionul Municipal. Q Open 10:00-22:00.

Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre B-5, P-ta Sfatului 30, tel. (+4) 0268 41 90
78, infoturismbv@yahoo.com. Inside the Old Town Hall on Piata Sfatului (turn right as you go in) Brasovs main Tourist Information Centre (TIC) is friendly and efficient. Two lovely girls will answer all your questions, hand out maps and generally do their best to help. Theres also a TIC kiosk at the station. Q Open 09:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at B-dul Garii 5.

Brasov In Your Pocket IYP Romania Srl Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3 Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8 014191 Bucuresti, Romania Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18 brasov@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Project Manager Remus Mesar Tel. (+4) 0722 55 94 94 Cover photo Cornel Pochiu

Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2012 unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). IYP Romania Srl is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Circulation (BRAT)

Walk around the back of Bran Castle, and cross the footbridge and the rubbishstrewn meadow (used for grazing in the summer) to reach a monument set in the rocks upon which a plaque reads Queen Maries heart was interred here in 1940. Which is entirely true. The rest of her body was buried at her palace on the coast in Balcik. After the war, her body was moved when Balcik became part of Bulgaria and the case with her heart moved to Bucharest by the communists. A little further on, a copy of Maries chapel at Balcik stands derelict next to the old customs post.

Adventure Sports
Team Adventure B-5, Str. Republicii 38, tel. (+4) 0744 32 93 36,
dan@teamadventure.ro, www.teamadventure.ro. Adventure sports in the mountains around Brasov, and then some. Rafting, climbing, bungee jumping, parascending, canoeing, kayaking, mountain biking, paintballing... the list is endless. Check their website for full details. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Approximately halfway between Brasov and Bran, the town of Rasnov was founded around 1225 by German Teutonic Knights. Rasnovs impressive fortress - it really does look the part, although the kitsch, Hollywood-style Rasnov sign in front of it somewhat dampens its dramatic impact - was built in the 14th century to protect the people of Rasnov and surrounding villages from the numerous invasions happening at the time. During periods of war, the townsfolk would pick up their cattle and retreat into the fortress. After two sieges ended in surrender because of a lack of water, a 174m deep well was dug by two Turkish prisoners: it took them 17 years and the pair were rewarded with their freedom on completion. In 1658, the Rosenauers had to retreat here for three years while war raged on the plains below. The last siege took place in 1690 (Turks again; they lost), after which the fortress was severely damaged by fire (1718), rebuilt (1719) and partially levelled by an earthquake (1802). The last use of the fortress as a refuge was during the revolutions of 1821 and 1848, when Romanian refugees and revolutionaries resided here. Although much of the fortress has been renovated over the past decade, work still continues on some buildings. The views from the top of the fortress over the plains and mountains are magnificent, and a lack of tourists makes the place feel much more authentic than Bran Castle. To reach the fortress, climb up the steps from the square immediately below, or be lazy and drive up the road towards Poiana Brasov, and turn left at the Cetate sign. In Rasnov itself, the Saxon church - the only protestant church left in the town - is well worth a visit. Find it just off the towns main square. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 10 lei. To get to Rasnov by public transport the best way is by minibus: these leave every hour or so from Brasovs Autogara 2. The journey takes about 30 minutes.

Map Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights

MINI-GUIDE

In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks. The New York Times
Brasov is not Romanias biggest city: most of its main sights can be seen in a day or two, but when it comes to packing a punch, few can match the place. It is simply one of those cities in which you find yourself wanting to spend more time than you originally planned. We cant be the only visitors to the city who come for just one night and end up staying for two or three. Brasov is that kind of place: a town which more than most in Romania manages to make the best of the old and the new. You can witness a great example of this on April 22, when the annual Junii Parade takes place. See the box on the reverse side of this mini-guide for more details. Besides highlighting the best that wonderful Brasov itself has to offer, this indispensible little mini-guide also offers full details of a couple of Romanias most (in)famous sights, both within easy reach of the city: Bran Castle and Rasnov Fortress. We have even included a couple of the more accessible fortified churches around the city, including perhaps the most famous of them all, that at Prejmer.

www.inyourpocket.com

INTROdUcING BRASOV

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Arriving by train

Brasovs railway station is not half as bad as many others in the country. In the main hall you will find two ATMs, a Relay press store, a helpful Wasteels ticket office and even a chemist. Outside - in a big and well organised car park - taxis and buses await. A taxi into the city centre costs around 8 lei. Just make sure the taxi displays the name, logo and phone number of a trusted Brasov taxi company, such as Martax. Cheapskates can take bus No. 4 into the city centre: buy tickets (1.50 lei each) from the RAT kiosk or vending machine next to the bus stop. Bus No. 4 leaves from platform three. It takes around 10 minutes to get to Livada Postei, the main bus stop in the city centre.

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Public transport in Brasov

If you keep to the main tourist area of Brasov (Old Town and Schei), the only bus routes of any interest will be the No. 51 - Gara and the Black Church to Piaa Unirii and Pe Tocile (returning via Strada Nicolae Balcescu and the Star Department Store); and the No. 50B - Livada Postei to Solomons Rocks. Of note too is the No. 20, which serves Poiana Brasov from Livada Postei, and the No. 12 from Livada Postei to Autogara No. 2 (for coaches to Bran). Tickets (1.50 lei) for Brasovs buses must be bought from an RAT kiosk before boarding, and stamped in the little machines once on board. There is a fine of 50 lei if you are caught with no ticket. Taxis are cheap in Brasov and better than buses for longer distances. Just make sure you take a taxi belonging to a trusted taxi company such as Martax (tel. 0268 313 040).

WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE
Southern Fortifications The walls along the foot of the Tampa Mountain were once 12 metres high and two metres thick. Over the past few years almost all of the wall on this side - along Aleea Tiberiu Bradiceanu - has been rebuilt, and wooden walkways placed on top so that you can climb up and take some terrific photos of the city. Where there are no walkways you can stroll along the quiet path next to the wall. A number of the original guard towers on this side of Brasovs fortifications have survived remarkably well, and the first you will come to is the imposing Weavers Bastion next to the Olimpia building. The best preserved part of Brasovs fortifications, the bastion (Bastionul Tesatorilor) houses a small but impressive museum (with some English captions) showing photographs of long-gone bastions, impressive weapons decorated with Arabic inscriptions (once used by the Turks to bash Saxons) and some huge guns. Most impressive of all is the large model of Brasov in 1600, made in 1896 for the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest (in those days Brasso was part of Hungary). When Nicolae Ceausescu visited the museum in 1968, a bright and shiny model of the Schei district was added to the old, depicting Schei circa 1850. (The bastion is open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7 lei; children, students 1.50 lei). There are five more towers and bastions on this side of the wall, known as, in order, Turnul Artelor, Turnul Funarilor, Turnul Vanatorilor, Turnul Lemnarului and Bastionul Postavarilor. All have been restored and three (Turnul Artelor, Turnul Vanatorilor and Bastionul Postavarilor) are open to the public, usually from 09:00-17:00 at this time of year. Entrance to all is free. While the Bastionul Postavarilor is the most impressive (outside and in), it is the upper floors (mind the steep ladders) of the Turnul Vanatorilor that offers the best views of the city. The cable car up to the top of the Tampa is found a short walk uphill from the T urnul Vanatorilor; next to it is the Casa Padurarilor restaurant. A number of walking routes up the Tampa also begin here. The newest construction is the area is the Tampa complex, which has a great terrace and an indoor swimming pool (open 08:00-21:00, day tickets 40 lei adults, 20 lei children) which really does offer a swim with a view.

Essential Brasov
Our suggestion for attacking Brasov is to start off by taking a walk around the old city walls. It is probably best to start your tour of the fortifications at Strada Dupa Ziduri (at the citys main central bus stop, Livada Postei ) and walk around the walls in an anti-clockwise direction. On the way around you will see most of the citys major sights, before ending up at the Bastionul Postavarilor. From there you can head up Strada Republicii into the heart of the Old Town and tick off the remaining essential sights, such as Strada Sforii, Piata Sfatului and the Black Church.

Wasteels D-2, B-dul Garii 5 (Gara Brasov), tel. (+4) 0268 42 43 13, www.
wasteelstravel.ro. Efficient, friendly, multi-lingual staff will sell you tickets to just about anywhere.Q Open 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-14:00.

Tours & Excursions

Active Travel C-4, Str. Toamnei 2, tel. (+4) 0728 804 952, office@
activetravel.ro, www.activetravel.ro. Recommended not only by us, but by our friends at Lonely Planet and on T rip Advisor, Active Travel is a local provider of hiking, trekking and biking tours on Piatra Craiului, Bucegi and the Fagaras mountains. They also offer rent-a-bike, standard day trips of Brasov and the region (including Poienari, Bran and Peles castles, Sighisoara, Viscri, Sibiu), rafting and paragliding. As of April 5, Active Travel will be running a set tour of Bran Castle and Rasnov Fortress every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The meeting point is the Tourist Information Centre on Piata Sfatului, and the tour departs at 09:30. The cost is 22 per person, and the tour will run as long there are a minimum two people. The price includes an English-speaking guide and transport. Q Open 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun (March), 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun (April-May).

Train Schedule
From Brasov
ICN IR ICN IR IC EN IR IC IR IR IR IC IC Dep. 08:27 09:13 12:35 16:45 20:21 21:41 09:15 15:52 12:44 15:37 18:34 07:30 14:20 Arr. 11:00 11:50 15:05 19:25 22:40 08:50 15:07 21:34 15:25 18:32 21:17 09:06 17:12 City BUCHAREST BUCHAREST BUCHAREST BUCHAREST BUCHAREST BUDAPEST CLUJ NAPOCA CLUJ NAPOCA SIBIU SIBIU SIBIU SIGHISOARA SIGHISOARA

To Brasov

Dep. IR 08:25 IR 11:10 IC 13:15 ICN 14:30 ICN 19:00 EN 19:10 IR 10:30 IC 14:10 IR 06:15 IR 11:32 IR 15:02 IC 10:14 IC 14:14

Arr. 11:00 13:55 15:44 17:02 21:34 08:19 16:32 20:02 08:59 13:54 17:40 12:26 16:32

Bastionul Graft A-5/B-4, Aleea Dupa Ziduri, tel. (+4) 0268 47 46 62. See Brasov Fortifications for full description. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed
Mon (March), 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon (April-May). Admission 5.00 lei; children, students 1 leu, pensioners 3 lei.

Black Tower & White Tower (Turnul Negru & Turnul Alb) A-5/B-4, Aleea Dupa Ziduri. See Brasov Fortifications for full description. Q Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7.00 lei; children groups 2.00 lei.

Brasov Citadel (Cetatea Brasov) B-4, Dealul Cetatii. Strategically

Carpathian Travel B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 2, tel. (+4) 0269 21 13 44,

office@carpathian-travel-center.com, www.carpathian-travel-center. com. Tours of historic Brasov, Sibiu, Sighisoara, as well as the surrounding areas. Carpathian Travel also organise hiking tours, biking tours and trips to the Danube Delta. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

T rain schedule verified December 11, 2011. Brasov In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the train schedule. The full Romanian train timetable is available online at mersultrenurilorcfr.ro. Tickets can be bought online (at least 24 hours in advance) at bilete.cfrcalatori.ro.

overlooking the town and the plains to north, the citadel is part of Brasovs outer fortification system. In 1524 the first wooden defence walls were erected, replaced between 1554 and 1690 by the four massive stone bastions you see now. The citadel was abandoned in the 17th century, after technological innovations made cannons stronger than the building. The Citadel has in recent years hosted a restaurant, cafe and nightclub amongst other things, never fulfilling its real potential.

Parc Central & Piata Revolutiei B/C-4. Brasov is blessed with a large, well-

Brasov Fortifications B/C-5; A-4/5, Aleea Tiberiu Brediceanu; Str. Dupa

Ziduri. Ever since the Saxon settlers arrived in the early 12th century, invading Mongols, Turks and others gave them a tough time, repeatedly destroying the old settlements of Bartholoma and Corona. When they had quite enough of it all, the Saxons set themselves to build fortifications around their town, first consisting of earthen walls and wooden barriers, later reinforced with stones. Most work was done between 1400 and 1650, when outer and inner walls were erected, together with massive defence towers and gates.

Northern Fortifications The best place to start a tour of fortifications is on the northern side, at Strada Dupa Ziduri (which translates as Street Behind the Walls). You will find it just north of the Livada Postei bus stop, to the right (face on) of the taxi rank. The street starts out inauspiciously - as a car park - but soon gives way to a relatively nice walk alongside the old, high city walls. You will pass under the Bastionul Graft, a wonderful 15th century relic, well preserved and housing the usual museum of medieval weaponry and suchlike. Above it is the White Tower (T urnul Alb), which you can climb up to via some very steep steps - do not try it unless you are feeling extremely fit and agile. And be careful if there is snow on the ground. There are more steps when you actually get to the tower, but the views from the top are fantastic. Follow the path between the wall and the canal (yes, it is a canal) a little further and you will see an old blue sign pointing the way to the Black Tower (T urnul Negru). You will notice immediately that the tower (which you can see by glancing up to your right) is in fact white. A steep path (but no steps!) leads up to it. The deck in front of it is a great location for photos. (The Black and White Towers are open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon). Follow the walls as they veer to the left, and look out for the almost fairy-tale Poarta Ecaterinei (Catherines Gate), built in 1559 and once the main entrance to medieval Kronstadt. It is the only original city gate to have survived. A little further on is the classicist Poarta Schei gate, which was built much later, in 1827. (For decades Poarta Schei was the only gate Romanians could use to enter and exit Brasov). Passing by an athletics stadium (which is part of Brasovs exceptional sports high school), the vaguely gothic-looking building which rears up, overlooking the tennis courts, is known as the Olimpia complex, originally built almost entirely of wood in 1894. It has been recently renovated and is home to a restaurant, as well as the Olimpia Tennis Club.

tended park in the very heart of the city. In summer, when the flowers are in full bloom it really is a picture postcard kind of place, and is mercifully free of the dogs which blight Bucharests parks. There is a good childrens playground, there is an area where old men get together for serious games of chess (dont even think about challenging them to a game unless you are very, very good). There are two buildings of note on the edge of the park, both masterpieces which date to the end of the 19th century, when the Hungarians ruled these lands. The first, the cream and yellow building opposite the Capitol hotel, is the neoclassical Town Hall (Primaria), built from 1897-8 while the second, next to it, is the sensational Secessionist Post Office, spoilt only by the ugly Posta Romana logo that adorns the faade. On the other side of Piata Revolutiei (where a major anti-Ceausescu demonstration in November 1987 - considered the first of a chain of events that would eventually bring the dictator down, two years later - was held) is another masterpiece, the Prefecture, home to Brasov County Council. Also have a look at the Modarom building at the corner of Stradas Republicii and B-dul Eroilor (it is the ugly round mini-skyscraper). It still has a couple of bullet holes from the 1989 revolution.

Piata Sfatului & History Museum B-5. Brasovs showpiece Piata Sfatului

(Council Square), known to the Saxon population as the Marktplatz, is one of the most beautiful main squares in Romania. Fully pedestrianised, the square was refurbished in 1988 and again a couple of years ago. It has never looked better. All around the square are sturdy houses with high lofts for storing goods, though few - if any - are still lived in. In the middle of the square is the Old City Hall, dating from 1420, and now home to both Brasovs History Museum (Open 09:00-17:00. Closed Mon; Admission 7 lei adults, 1.50 lei children) and the excellent Tourist Information Centre (open 09:00-17:00). The city halls tower is in fact much older than the building itself, and was once a watchtower for approaching barbarians before being incorporated into the main building. What you see today is largely the result of an 81-year renovation after a great fire hit Brasov in 1689. Elsewhere in Piata Sfatului you will find a number of places to eat and drink, and the startling Romanian Orthodox Cathedral at No. 3. The square hosts the annual Carpathian Stag Music Festival (the citys biggest annual event) and there is usually some kind of craft market too. No bargains, but plenty of good souvenir fodder.

bRASOV
Baiulescu Gh. A-5/B-6 Balcescu B-5/C-4 Balea A-6 Barbusse Henri A-6 Baritiu Gheorghe A/B-5 B-dul 15 Noiembrie C-4 B-dul Eroilor B-4/C-5 B-dul Muncii D-5 Blaga Lucian C/D-4 Brancoveanu Cons. A-5-6 Buzoianu B/C-4 Calea Poienii A-4/5 Cantacuzino Ion C-4/3 Castanilor C-4 Castelului B-6/C-5 Cerbului B-5 Cetatuiei B/C-4 Cibinului A-4/5 Colinei B-4 Coresi Diaconul B-5 Cosbuc Gheorghe B-5/6 Cranta Ion B-3/C-4 Curtea Honterus Johannes B-5 Cuza A.I. B-3/C-4 Democratiei Dinicu Grigoras Dorobantilor Dupa Ziduri Eminescu Mihai Fantana Rosie Gott Johann Gradinarilor A-6 B-5 D-4 A-5/B-4 B-3/4 A-6/5 B-5 C-4 Harghita Hirscher Apollonia Iorga Nicolae Iosif Izorul Rece Lunga Lupeni Malaiesti A-6 B-5 B/C-4 A/B-4 C/D-4 A-2/B-4 B-4 A/B-6 Matei Basarab C/D-4 Muresenilor B-5/4 Neagoe Basrab C-4 Negoiu C-4 Nicolae Titulescu D-4 Nisipului de Jos/Sus A-5 Olarilor C-5/D-4 Pajistei A-6 Pann Anton A-6 Penes Curcanul B-5 Petofi Alexandru A/B-6 Piaa Enescu, Gheorghe B-5 Piaa Sfatului B-5 Piaa Unirii A-6 Pietii C-4/5 Poarta Schei A-5 Podagru Politehnicii Pop Pictor Postavarului Prundului Republicii Retezat Richter Paul A-6 B/C-5 C-5/D-4 B-5/C-4 A-6/5 B-5/4 A-6 A-5/6 Romana Romer Julius Roth Stefan Ludwig Russo Alecu Saftu Vasile Semenicului Sirul Plaiesilor Stejerisului D-4 B-5 B-5 B-5 A-6 A-6 B-6 A-5 Tampei Trotus Varful cu Dor Vlad Tepes Vuia Traian Wagner Valentin Warthe Weiss Michael D-5 A-5/6 D-5 C-4 D-4 B-5/4 A-4 B-4/5

Spring 2012 N 12 - 12 lei

WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE
The Black Church (Biserica Neagra) B-5, Curtea Johannes Honterus 2,
tel. (+4) 0268 51 18 24. Probably Brasovs most important - and certainly most famous - landmark, the Black Church is said to be the largest church anywhere between Vienna and Istanbul, and it towers imposingly over Piata Sfatului and the old town. The church has a turbulent history: built between 1385 and 1477 on the site of an earlier church (destroyed by Mongol invasions in 1242), the construction of the Marienkirche was hampered by extensive damage caused by Turkish raids in 1421. The church was given its new name after disaster stuck again in 1689, when the Great Fire levelled most of the town, blackening the walls of the church. Restoration took almost 100 years. Of two towers planned, only one (65.6m high) was finished. The original Gothic interior has suffered under the restorations, and the lofty, light space you see nowadays is mostly Baroque. Humanist Johannes Honterus, whose 101-year-old statue can be seen next to the tower, became Stadtpfarrer (priest) a few years after bringing Lutheranism to Brasov in 1542. Listen to the impressive 4000-pipe organ dating from 1839 during the concerts held at least once a week. Best of all however are the 119 fabulous Anatolian carpets on display. The rugs were donated by German merchants in the 17th and 18th century, thankful to have survived their shopping trips into the barbaric lands south and east of the Carpathians. The collection is the largest of its kind in Europe. Q Open 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. Admission 6 lei; students 3 lei; children 2 lei.

Schei & the Junii A-6. You shouldnt leave Brasov without a stroll through

Schei, the district where for centuries Romanians were forced to live, as only Saxons could live within the city walls. Walk up Strada Prundului to Piata Unirii and the beautiful Sf. Nicolae church and wander around the small curving streets that gradually slope upwards against the hill. Note the many different iron door handles and knockers adorning the pretty houses. The church (at Piata Unirii 1-2) was originally built in 1521 in RomanianByzantine style and considerably expanded in the 18th century, the church with its slender tower and four corner towers now looks more like a Transylvanian German church. The building actually holds four churches, as the tower and the two wings each have a chapel inside. Behind the church youll find the grave of Nicolae Titulescu (1882-1941), finance minister, foreign minister and president of the League of Nations. He died in exile in Switzerland, was buried in Cannes and was only reburied in Romania in 1990. The monument near his grave quotes a line from his will: I wish to be buried in Transylvania. My friends will know to find a place according to my wish. On the same site is the First Romanian School Museum (Piata Unirii 2-3; open 09:00-17:00, Admission 5.00 lei, children 3.00 lei), for centuries a centre for Romanian teaching and book printing. The small museum houses countless Romanian firsts: the oldest Romanian bible (printed on goats skin), the oldest letter written in Romanian using the Latin alphabet (previously, Romanian was written with Cyrillic letters), a page from an 11th century schoolbook and much more. The printing press itself printed only 39 books, taking 20 workers and eight translators months to finish just one book. No wonder a book was worth 12 oxen in those days. Also here is the tiny Museum of the Junii (Muzeul Junilor), showing the seven different traditional costumes the Schei men wore; Schei women had only one. Strada Republicii B-4/5. Brasovs picture-postcard main street leads from Piata Eroilor up to Piata Sfatului, and in winter, covered in snow, it is no exaggeration to say that it takes on a faiytale quality. Fully pedestranised, Republicii is lined with three and four storey houses, and is packed with courtyards, most of which hide little bars and pubs. Though not all of the streets properties are yet back to tip-top condition, slowly, but surely, many are being renovated, and done so with taste: there are strict rules on the kind of decor, windows etc. building owners can use.

Churches
Blumana Sf. Gheorghe Church C-4, Str. 15 Noiembrie 29, tel. (+4) 0268
41 51 99. Its a house. Look again... its a church! Saint George moved in to the second floor of an impressive villa in 1934, where Romanian Orthodox believers improvised a church until redecoration in 1985. The carved wooden furniture still looks new. Check out the chair with the photo of Mitropolit Plamadeala, Orthodox archbishop of Transylvania. The wonderful paintings of saints and biblical scenes on the walls and ceilings were added between 1989 and 1991. Some of the icons are painted onto (the back of) glass - a Transylvanian speciality. This is a busy church, with services nearly all day, nearly every day.

C. A. Bartolomeu Evangelic Church A-2, Str. Lunga 251, tel. (+4) 0268

41 11 18/(+4) 0744 32 68 25. Take buses N5 or 9 to the end of Strada Lunga to see the oldest church of Brasov. Started in the 13th century, St. Batholomeu was left in the suburbs when the Saxons decided to move their main settlement to Corona at the foot of Mount Tampa. You can wander through the well-tended churchyard and admire the old sundial on the outside of the church and the broken arch windows and vaults on gothic ogivs inside. Q Not included in the tourist circuit. Visitors allowed with a phone call ahead.

Heading for the capital? Make sure you pick up a copy of Bucharest In Your Pocket

Holy Trinity Church A/B-5, Str. Baritiu 12. Built in the late 18th century and

hidden in a courtyard, this ornately decorated Romanian church is well worth a visit. After viewing the main hall proceed to the candle room and exit into the courtyard cemetery which contains crypts from the past two centuries. From there you can observe the two surviving western fortress walls and towers.

Strada Sforii (Rope Street) A-5. Heading into Brasov through Poarta Schei, the

Romanian Orthodox Cathedral (Catedrala Ortodoxa Sfanta Adormire a Maicii Domnului) B-5, Piata Sfatului 3. Built in a glaring Byz-

third street on your right is Strada Sforii, allegedly the narrowest street in Europe. It dates from the 18th century and, less than a metre wide, is perhaps the only street in Romania where you can touch both sides with your hands at the same time.

Tampa Mountain A/C-5, Telecabina Tampa, Str. Brediceanu. Ascend

Mount Tampa by cable car (going up to an altitude of 940m) or by walking up one of the paths twisting up the hill to soak up excellent views of medieval Brasov, the incredibly flat plain to the north and of course the Carpathians. In the 1950s, when Brasov was named Orasul Stalin (Stalin City), trees were chopped down so that the name of the great dictator appeared on the hillside facing the old town. Nature has recovered from the shock, and the hillside is now a nature reservation. From the upper cable car station walk five minutes (not 15 as indicated) along the path to the rocky outcrop (the top, 955m high) for the best views of the old town. Youll clearly be able to make out the different parts of Brasov: the German part of town has hundreds of red roofs crammed between straight streets surrounding Piata Sfatului, while the Romanian Schei district to the south (left) is a spaghetti of small streets, jumbled houses and cemeteries, petering out towards the hills. On the plain are the later additions to Brasov: the 18th and 19th century expansions and of course the flats and huge factories from the last 50 years. From Tampa, its very tempting to walk across the crests of the hills to Poiana Brasov and Postavarul (1799m). Single/ return ticket 15.00 lei. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

antine style, this church (or rather, the portal) sticks out between the subdued merchants houses on Piata Sfatului. The orthodox cathedral was built in 1896, and is worth entering for the frescoes and the impressive decorations. On Saturdays, brides and grooms wait in line outside to get married here and its usually no problem if you wander in and have a look at the crowned newly weds walking around the altar three times while a choir sings Halleluja.

Sf. Nicolae Orthodox Church A-6, Piata Unirii 2 - 3, tel. (+4) 0268 51 15 39. For full description see Schei & the Junii. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Sf. Peter & Pauls Roman-Catholic Church B-5/4, Str. Muresenilor
19-21, tel. (+4) 0268 47 54 84. Brasovs only Baroque church was built in 1782 with financial help from Maria Theresia. Peek at the impressive interior.

Synagogue A/B-5, Str. Poarta Schei 27, tel. (+4) 0744 31 77 38/(+4)

0741 41 42 46, fax (+4) 0268 51 18 67. Jews have been in Brasov since 1807, when Aron Ben Jehuda was given permission by the until then restrictive Saxons to live in the city. The Jewish Community of Brasov was officially founded 19 years later, followed by the first Jewish school in 1864 and building of the synagogue in 1901. The Jewish population of Brasov expanded rapidly to 1280 souls in 1910 and 4,000 in 1940. Today the community has about 230 members, after many families left for Israel between WWII and 1989. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 5.00 lei.