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# Reversible Wrap Around Skirt Pattern and Assembly Instructions

## Instructions and Photography by Amy Ouellette http://whatdidshedotoday.wordpress.com

Sizing is fully customizable. This pattern can be used to create skirts for Dolls to Plus size Adults. This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not post, copy or sell this pattern without written authorization. Thank you.

Note: These instructions are for a Reversible Wrap Around skirt. In the instructions I refer to Skirt A and B, this is instead of referring to the inside and outside, since both sides can be worn on the outside. I include two options for how to cut out and piece the fabric together. They are titled Continuous and Pieced. There are also two options for finishing the waistband. Both options will work, and the finished appearance of both, are similar, I just included them so you could decide which you thought would be easiest.

Supplies
Fabric (at least 2 patterns, and you can use up to 4) Scrap String or Yarn Two Pencils Paper Tape Button Foot for sewing machine Standard Sewing accessories (machine, thread, pins, scissors) Chart at end of these instructions for figuring out the conversion of decimals to fractions
Note: Seam allowance, I use to make things easy. When making a doll version, I would recommend instead.

## Creating the Pattern:

I tape printer paper together to form a piece large enough to make the pattern. Method #1: Measure the individuals waist. Example 20 Divide by pi (3.14) to get the diameter. Divide Diameter by 2, this is your working number.

For a childs skirt you can probably use a protractor, to make a circle, by setting the distance between the pencil and the metal point to be the same as the working number. Draw a Circle. If you dont have a protractor, or your working number is too large for your protractor, you can make one of your own. Tie two pencils together with a piece of string or yarn. You want the distance between the two points of the pencil to be the same as the working number. Hold one pencil stable, draw your circle with the other pencil. You will now have the waist circle. Next you need to decide how long you want your skirt to be. If you want it to be 10 long you will add 10.5 to the working number. The extra .5 is for the seam allowance on the hem edge. Now set your make shift protractor to the new number. Use the same center point that you used for your first circle. Draw a circle. That is the hem edge. Next, fold your pattern in 4ths. You can cut along the folds to cut a circle. This is your pattern. You can use the pattern in a couple ways, both are outlined below, one after the other.

Method #2:
Determine measurements as above. Instead of making a full circle, you can set the point of your protractor (or pencil combo) on the corner of a square of paper to create your circle that will be your finished pattern piece. The corner must be 90 degrees for this to work properly. Make a semi circle that reaches from one 90 degree edge to the other with the stable point of your protractor at the smallest point on the corner. This will save paper, over method #1. Photo shows positioning of makeshift protractor with stable red in the corner and working blue creating the semi-circle.

## Continuous Skirt: (easiest for a childs skirt)

Take the number you used for the larger circle and multiply by 2. Cut a square of fabric that is the same size as that number. Fold in 4ths and place the pattern to line up with both edges. Cut along waist line and hem line. Do this for both fabrics, to create 2 skirts, A&B.

Open the Quarter Circle to a Half Circle. Cut one of the folds to allow for the fabric to be open, and not a closed circle.

Fold your pattern piece in thirds (I recommend folding 1 third under, and not cutting the pattern. This way you can reuse it repeatedly.) Place the 2/3 pattern piece on a single layer of fabric to cut 1 front flap from both fabrics. This is the flap that will allow for extra fabric to create a wrap. You will need two, one for Skirt A and one for Skirt B. In the example, I used the dots on the floral side and the floral on the dots side, only using 2 fabrics. You can be very creative with your fabric choices here. Suggestions are given at the end of the tutorial.

Now you need a waist band. For a child size, you can do this in one piece, but for an adult size you may need to join two pieces. Decide how wide you want the waist band, which will also create your ties. Take the desired width, multiply by 2 and add 1. For a 2 inch waist band you will cut a 5 strip. To determine length you will take the waist dimension, add the length of the front panel waist end, and add about 16, to allow for overhang used for the ties. The dimension of 16 will allow for 8 on each side, but you can vary that length to make the ties longer or shorter. If you are making this for an adult you may need to take the total length of your waist band, divide by 2, add 1 and cut two pieces that long. You will sew them together along the short edge with a 1/2 seam allowance.

Sewing:

Pin the flap to the left side of one skirt piece and to the right side of the other. Example: I pinned the Dots to the right side of the floral fabric below. Then I stitched the floral fabric to the left side of the Dot fabric. This is so the front flaps match up when you pin skirt A and Skirt B together. Stitch using seam allowance and press flat.

Pin along short edges and the hem, matching the seam created by adding the flap. Stitch Skirt A and Skirt B together along the short edge and hem, leaving the waist edge raw.

## Cut corners and clip notches along hemline.

Turn right side out. I iron at this point to be sure everything is lined up. After ironing, you can top stitch along short edges and hem. Topstitching will add a finished look, as well as keep Skirt A and B together during washing, to allow for easy ironing later.

## Waistband Option #1:

(Option #2 is shown in the Pieced skirt instructions) Lay one raw edge of waistband along the raw waist edge of skirt. Pin. Stitch along the skirt waist.

Clip along the seam created. This will provide the ease necessary to stitch the waist band to the top and have it lay flat. Once you clip, iron seam.

Finish the ends of the ties by folding the corners in, to create triangles that are the same size on each side. Then fold the end over at the edge of the triangles. Press to keep in place. Fold the fabric along end and pin.

## Fold from raw edge of waist band.

Fold waistband over raw waist edge and then fold the raw side of waist band to match sewn side. Include ties, to finish those edges too.

Starting at one end, stitch along one short end, across the length of the waist band and ties, finishing by stitching the last short side of the tie.

Approximately 3 in (towards skirt, away from the front flap), from the seam line where you attached the front flap, put a button hole on the waist band. If your band is thin you can have the button hole run lengthwise, or if you have a wide waist band you can have it running up and down across the waist band.

Pieced Skirt:

Stitch front flap to one piece, then stitch another piece to the first on the opposite side of where you stitched the flap, continue adding to fresh side until all pieces are attached. Repeat for other side, except if you added the flap on the left side of all the pieces on the first, add it to the right side on the second.

Press all seams flat. Pin along short edges and the hem, matching the seams.

Stitch along short sides and hem, leaving waist edge raw.

## Cut corners and notches along hemline.

Turn right side out. I iron at this point to be sure everything is lined up. After Ironing, you can top stitch along short edges and hem.

## Waistband Option #2:

(Option #1 is shown in the instructions for the continuous skirt above)Fold waist band in half lengthwise. Stitch the two short ends. Cut corners, and turn right side out.

Lay one raw edge of waistband along the raw waist edge of skirt. Pin. Stitch along length of skirt waist. Fold with seam along the tie pieces of the waist band.

Clip along the seam created. This will provide the ease necessary to stitch the waist band to the top and have it lay flat. Once you clip, iron seam.

Fold waistband over raw waist edge and then fold the raw side of waist band to match sew side. Include ties, to finish those edges too.

Starting at one end sew the length of the waistband, using a seam allowance. Approximately 3 in, from the seam line where you attached the front flap, put a button hole on the waist band. If your band is thin you can have the button hole run lengthwise, or if you have a wide waist band you can have it running the up and down across the waist band.