VISIT TO GHAR-E-HIRA (The Holy Cave near Makkah), A UNIQUE FIELDWORK OF MY LIFE by Nusrat Kamal Siddiqui

General Manager Exploration New Horizon Exploration and Production Limited (NHEPL) Ph: 92-(021) 56833901-3 (O) , (021) 5855662 (R) Cell: 0332-2105522 E-mail: nusrat.kamal@gmail.com nsiddiqui@nhepl.com

Nusr at K. Siddi qui

Digitally signed by Nusrat K. Siddiqui DN: cn=Nusrat K. Siddiqui, c=PK, email=nusrat. kamal@gmail. com Date: 2010.11.14 23:34:18 +05'00'

ABSTRACT Ghar-e-Hira, the holy cave where the last Prophet Muhammad (SAW) used to go for meditation and solace and where he eventually received Gods first revelation (Wahi) in 610 AD, is situated atop a hill aptly named Jabal Al-Noor (the mount of the Divine Light). The mount itself is present at a distance of about 5 km northeast of Kaaba which is situated in the holy city of Makkah in Saudi Arabia. Western half of Saudi Arabia, in geological terms, represents the so called Shield Area where the basement, consisting of igneous and metamorphic rocks, is exposed which, at places, is overlain by lava flows. However, the eastern half represents worlds most prolific sedimentary basin containing 25% of the global oil reserves which is extremely cheap to exploit too. Deserts generally represent the Saudi terrain whereas in the western part low relief mountains rise from the flat desert. At places batholiths of acidic / intermediate rocks penetrate these hills, which being resistant to weathering, stand out and occupy the highest point. Holy Kaaba in Makkah is located in a depression surrounded by hills composed of igneous rocks. Jabal Al-Noor is one such mountain where a flattened-head batholith of granodioritic composition rises vertically through its central part. The cave is located on the southwestern edge of the batholith and is not a cave in its true geological sense. It is rather a perfect arrangement of steeply dipping large blocks of rectangular shape. A tapering cavity has developed between this setting of joint blocks to give it a shape of a small triangular cave which is pointing exactly in the direction of Kaaba, while Qibla-e-Awwal i.e. Baitul Maqdas (Masjid-e-Aqsa) is situated in the opposite direction to the north. I did offer my prayers but could not resist the temptation to look at the cave with the eye of a geologist, a surveyor and also in terms of its archeological importance / historical background. The paper discusses the geology of the region, orientation of axis of the cave with reference to Kaaba and to the sun trajectory, being a perfect retreat and safe, fully ventilated and sunny, a rock type which is immune to weathering etc., in detail. The perfection of the location, an environment superbly suited for meditation and the orientation of the cave, all made me think whether or not the cave was custom-made by God who Himself guided the holy Prophet (SAW) towards it to prepare him for the enormous responsibilities he was destined to undertake.

INTRODUCTION I am a geologist and have been undertaking geological field trips since early 1960s, first as a student and later as a professional geologist, both in Pakistan as well as abroad. I first visited Saudi Arabia in 1977 (Umra) and 1978 (Haj) along with my wife Farkhanda, but on both the occasions was somehow unable to visit Ghar-e-Hira (the Cave of Hira), which I regretted ever since. I used to think that for the sake of my profession I have always been climbing mountains, and why I did not climb Jabal Al-Noor, on top of which the most important cave in Prophets life is situated, where he received the first revelation (Wahi) of God. Fortunately in 1998 again I had the opportunity to visit Saudi Arabia. The timing was perfect as all of my family members were free at the same time a rare occasion, and so this time I performed the Umra along with my four kids and wife. We arrived in Jeddah/Makkah Al-Mukarramah on 18th December, 1998 and the Ramazan in Saudia started on 19th (1st Ramazan, 1419 Hijra). It was the very last day of 1998 when I along with my eldest son Atif had the opportunity to climb the hill, aptly named as Jabal Al-Noor (the mountain of Divine Light), on top of which the Holy Cave is situated. My objective was not only religious. It also had historical, archeological and geological aspects. The map attached as Figure-1 shows the area around Haram ( the Kaaba precinct) and the relative position of Ghar-e-Hira and Ghar-e-Thaur.

We remained at the cave for about three hours, offered Nawafil (prayers) as and when it was possible and calmly recited Duroods (pray for Prophet). But the longer I stayed there the more thoughts kept coming to my mind which made me realize more and more about the greatness of the Prophet (SAW), revealing those facets of the Insan-e Kamil (the most perfect human being), which may not strictly be religious only. But Islam, on the other hand, is not a religion but Deen - a way of life. To be a Momin (true Muslim) is a perpetual state of ibadat (prayers/allegiance to God) and ibadat in Deen is not just praying, or following the five Rukuns (pillars) of Islam but each and every action covering the entire life, twenty four hours of each single breathing day. Prophets (SAW) life covers a full spectrum, what a human being could possibly do in ones life. Though our Prophets (SAW) life was an exception in a sense that it was a unique example of what could be humanly possible, only with a perfection to the hilt. His phenomenal achievements are not possible by any other human being. But at the same time we do not have any excuse, what so ever, that we can not at least emulate the life he passed, as our Nabi (Messenger) was first a human being, only to a fabulous perfection. He was born in a most backward and desolate place on earth. Nevertheless, he promulgated a religion and law, the influence of which is still powerful and pervasive around the world. Michael H. Hart (1978) ranks the Prophet (SAW) on top of the hundred most influential personalities of the history and justifies his selection by the following statement, and I quote - It is this unparalleled combination of secular and religious influence which I feel entitles Muhammad to be considered the most influential single figure in human history.
Fig-1: The map of Makkah and surrounding areas. Relative locations of Ghar-e-Hira and Ghar-e-Thaur are highlighted with dashed arrows and orientation of joints, at Hira, shown on the top (modified after Farsi, Z.A. 1988 i.e. 1409 Hijra)

The time, at the cave, seemed to have passed just like that and following narration is what caused the time to pass so quickly:

GEOLOGY Western Saudi Arabia represents the so called Shield Area (Fig-2) where igneous and metamorphic

Fig-2: Geological Map of Arabian Peninsula. Note the presence of Arabian Shield in the western part where Makkah & Madina are located (modified after ARAMCO, 1980).

rocks, with localized lava flows, are exposed in the form of hills and medium size mountains, rising from the desert sand. At places batholiths comprising of acidic / intermediate rocks penetrate these hills, which being resistant to weathering occupy the highest point. Jabal Al-Noor is one such hill where a flattened-head batholith rises vertically through its central part (Fig-3).

Fig-3: Jabal Al-Noor (the Mountain of Divine Light). Note the verticaly protruding batholith through the centre of mountain.

The cave is located on the southwestern edge of the batholith and is not a cave in its true geological sense. It is rather a perfect arrangement of steeply dipping large blocks, rectangular in shape and dislocated along the jointing system. The joints strike at a bearing of about 40 degrees north and dip at an angle of 55-60 degrees towards northwest (55-60 / 310 degrees). The fresh rock is devoid of any soft material along the rugged joint surfaces and hence the rainwater could not allow any movement within the joint blocks. The Shield Areas are the most stable regions of the earths crust and, therefore, earthquakes do not occur which may disturb the juxtaposed joint blocks. It seems that this geometrical setting of the joint blocks had remained undisturbed for geological times and has continued to do so since the times of the Prophet (SAW). The caves mouth is of triangular shape and as if a triangular conical piece of rock has been taken out to create a small cavity which tapers towards southwest, right in the direction of Kaaba (the first home of God). THE SAUDI OIL In the above mentioned regional geological setting the prolific oil bearing sedimentary basins of Saudia fall on the eastern side of the country, onshore and all along the Persian Gulf (Fig-4). The four countries around the northern periphery of the Gulf namely Saudia, Iraq, Iran and Kuwait contain about 55% of the worlds known oil reserves of 1,016 billion barrels (IPE, 2000). Whereas Saudi Arabia alone contains more than 25 percent (261 billion barrels) of the world reserves. The God Almighty has been very kind to the land He chose, since Biblical times, for propagation of His religion. But these countries, unfortunately, lack the prudent utilization of the oil weapon. JABAL AL-NOOR (The Mountain of Divine Light) The mountain (Fig-3) is located about 5 km northeast of the Kaaba (Fig-1), as the crow flies, across a hilly terrain, which must have been barren 1400 years ago. Only in the mid 20th century, after the oil boom, the development in the region had started and now the residential areas have reached the foothills. The mountaintop is about 550- 600m above sea level with a local relief of about 200m. The mountain can be reached by following the Al-Sail Road which goes towards Riyadh. Access The easier access to the cave is from the southeastern slope of Jabal Al-Noor. Locals have marked the access route by white lime, for people to see it with ease, and have cut or built stairs along the zigzag path. The steep slope is littered with fresh angular boulders, which makes climbing difficult. It gets steeper where the batholith starts. We bypassed the stairs and tried to walk along the slope littered with boulders, as these stairs were not there when the Prophet (SAW) used to go up so frequently.
Fig-4: Middle East Oil Map. All the hydrocarbon fields of Saudia are in the eastern part of the country. Note the concentration of Worlds 55% Oil reserves around the Persian Gulf (modified after IPE, 2000).

The best time to plan a visit to the cave is immediately after the Fajar prayers. Depending upon season the taxi would cost Saudi Riyals 10-20 to be dropped on the road side at the southeastern slope of Jabal Al-Noor . We reached the starting point at about 06:35 am and started the climb. It took us about 40 minutes, with two rests in between, to reach the top. It was 07:17 am when I saw the cave for the first time, from top of a cliff, and took the photograph (Fig-5), which also shows the edge of the 8m high cliff facing the caves mouth. During our stay at the cave for about three hours I saw men, women both old & young, and groups of people arriving and leaving. Some of them reciting prayers in loud monotone, disturbing others and trying to offer, out of their turn, as many Nawafil (prayers) as possible, and some even getting their video made while praying. Quite a few just came and left after offering a couple of Nawafil. To me, that holy place is not just for the religious rituals, but also to think about why and how, and so far from Makkah Al-Mukarramah, a place so perfectly designed could be found, as I would dare to explain later. GHAR-E-HIRA (The Cave of Hira) The cave, situated on top in the foreground. The high rock face to the left prevents the sunrays, in the forenoon, of Jabal Al-Noor, is a from falling inside the cave. perfect retreat. It is very difficult to be seen from below, even if one walks all around the mountain. The top of the hill is somewhat flattened and one can not see the cave immediately after reaching the top from the southern slope. As one reaches the top and walks towards southwest, a U-shaped cut with about 8m vertical drop in northeastern and about 4m on the opposite side comes in the way, which extends right across the hill. The cave comes in view from the top of the 8m high vertical face of the U-shaped cut (Fig-5). To the left i.e. southeast, a narrow depression (like that for an incipient stream) in the steep rock face, where now cement stairs are present, leads the way to the floor of the U-shaped cut. The cut itself is about 2m wide with a flat floor. In the middle of this cut large boulders have fallen, leaving a single narrow opening (Fig-6) through which one can squeeze to the other side (Fig-7), and finds himself Fig-6: The large boulders fallen in the U-shaped cut and the single opening which right in front of the mouth of leads to an open space on the other side, where the cave is located to the left (after the holy cave, located to the Misbahuddin Shakeel, 1996). left. Description of the Cave As mentioned earlier the caves mouth is of triangular shape, the apex of which is no more than 1.75m high witha base of about one meter. The roof tapers towards southwest and the maximum length of the conical cavity is no more than a couple of meters. To the right (northwest) there is a 120 x 50 x 30 cm flat ledge with a nicely sloping smooth boulder at the outer end, like the back of an easy chair, where one can take rest by stretching legs and reclining on the sloping surface. Someone has
Fig-5: The view of the cave from the top of the 8m high cliff, the edge of which is visible

covered the ledge with white tiles which, I think, should not have been done to keep the original looks. The floor of the cave has also been covered with the same tiles. Right at the tip of the cavity there is a square shaped raised block where one can sit to ponder in complete isolation (Fig-8). Only a man of medium height can stand just inside the mouth, otherwise one will have to stand out for offering his prayers. Similarly only a lean person can squeeze through the boulders (Fig-6 & 7) fallen into the U-shaped cut. The Prophet (SAW) had been visiting the place for a much longer time (reportedly twenty years) before the first revelation in 610 AD at his mature age of 40 years. At times he is said to have spent entire month of Ramazan in the cave. He may have meditated, pondered, deliberated, cogitated and mused, over the existing conditions in the region and within Makkah itself while staying in the complete isolation of the cave. He must have thought also about how to eliminate the deep-rooted evils in the society and get the Kaaba cleansed of the idols and the wrong doings around it. These kinds of thoughts made me ponder about why such a place was chosen by the Prophet (SAW). I probably had the part answer that the Prophet (SAW) required complete isolation for meditation and a place away from his enemies. But the more I observed the cave the more flabbergasted I got, because of the following: i. Its orientation with reference to Kaaba and to the sun trajectory. ii. Being a perfect retreat, and difficult to reach even if it is visible right in front. iii. Fully ventilated and sunny iv. A rock type which is immune to weathering, particularly in such a dry weather, and as they say for diamonds the Granites are forever (the term Granite is being used in a general sense). i. ORIENTATION OF THE GHAR Before dealing with this aspect I would like to explain that even after the advent of Islam in 610 AD, Bait-ul-Maqdas was kept as the Qibla for the first two years as under: Qibla-e-Awwal vs Qibla-e-Sani It may be noted that God initially ordered for Baitul Maqdas (Masjid-e-Aqsa) to be the Qibla (the direction Muslims face to pray) for offering the prayers. Before the Hijrah (The Gracious Emigration) to Madina in 622 AD the Prophet (SAW) used to lead the prayers by standing before the southern wall of the Kaaba, thereby keeping Kaaba and Baitul Maqdas both in front. After reaching Madina the prayers were still continued to be offered, for another 18-24 months, by facing Baitul Maqdas, which is in northwest of Madina, whereas Makkah is located to the south. The Prophet (SAW) continued to pray for Fig-7: The large size boulders and the two narrow exists (A & B) on the other side of the change of Qibla during Fig-6. The cave itself is located to the right (not in picture). Only a lean person can this entire period which was squeeze through the boulders. eventually done through a revelation (Wahi) in 623-24 AD. The famous incidence of the Wahi ordering the change of Qibla towards Makkah Al-Mukarramah occurred in 2nd Hijra in a mosque now known as Masjid-e-Qiblatain (the mosque of two Qiblas). Reportedly the Prophet (SAW) was leading the Zohar or Asar prayer

when the Wahi came and he had to turn around and walk to the opposite wall, which every one followed, and completed the prayer without any break. As late as 1978 the mosque still had two Mehrabs (arched niche) on both the northern and southern walls of the mosque. But now the northern Mehrab has been replaced by a large marble plaque warning the pilgrims, in different languages including Urdu, not to pray in that direction. Keeping the above in mind it just occurred to me to find the orientation of the cave, and the moment I looked at the horizon I could see the minarets of the Haram, barely visible in the hazy morning, just to the right of the caves axis which later I found to be those of Bab Al-Fatah (The Gate of Victory). This setting makes the caves axis to be exactly in the direction of the Kaaba itself, which is present right in the middle of the Harams premises. Now the elevation of the cave is around 550-600m whereas the Kaaba itself is situated at an elevation of 330m above sea level. It may be noted that the Kaaba is located in a depression surrounded by a ring of high hills except in the northeastern side i.e. towards the Murva end of the Saee, the direction in which the cave is also located at a bearing of 41 degrees and at a distance of about 5 km from Kaaba. In this topographical setting whether the Kaaba could have been visible in those days can be deciphered with the help of topographical maps, may be from as late as 1940s (AD), because the major construction phases in and around Makkah, which changed the topography, did not happen before 1950s (AD). Urban development around Kaaba Not much had changed since the first walls were constructed around the Kaaba by Abbasi Khulafa sometimes in the 8th century AD. Then, during the Turkish rule and later during the Saudi Dynasty continuous changes have been undergoing since mid-50s wherein the Mutaf (the open area around Kaaba) has been enlarged along with a very large double story covered area, including Saee around the Mutaf itself. The latest and the most fabulous renovations which changed the surrounding topography have been undertaken over a period of 10 long years, from 1984 to 1994 AD, by His Majesty King Fahad. The implementation of this gigantic and unique project has completely changed the complexion of both Haram Al-Sharif and the Masjid Al-Nabawi (Prophets mosque in Madina) in terms of beauty and the facilities combined. The present Custodian of Haramain Al-Shareefain has really put his heart and soul into the job to bring about the most desirable and practical changes. These have resulted in topographical changes and construction of high rise buildings all around, which hinders the view. The present influx of pilgrims, which is more than 2 million during Haj season, however, have a very comfortable stay due to these changes. Sun trajectory The cave is oriented in a northeast southwest direction with its mouth opening northwards. Towards east the mountain is higher, protecting it from the direct sunrays in the forenoon, while in the afternoon the sunrays can not fall inside the mouth. I live Fig-8: The full view of caves inside. The floor is covered with white tiles. in Karachi on the seaside. For the sake of Note the square shaped raised block at the very tip (after Tarik Jan, curiosity I used to take the bearing of the 1998). setting sun frequently and particularly on the shortest day (22 December) and the longest day (21 June), the record of which is available with me. The bearing of the setting sun, for Karachi, ranges from a minimum of 240 degrees in winter to a maximum of 300 degrees in the summer. Now the axis of the cave is oriented at a bearing of 221 degrees and hence the mouth of the cave, which is at right angle to the axis, follows a bearing of 311 degrees. Makkah is located at the Latitude of 21 degree 25 minutes and Karachi at Latitude 24 degrees 47 minutes. In this setting the measurements at Karachi

can be applied to the cave and, therefore the sun rays, even on the longest day would not fall in the mouth. ii. A PERFECT RETREAT The cave represents a perfect retreat. It is difficult to be seen from below by a person who even tries to look for it. After a difficult / steep climb, from southern side, if one reaches the top even then it can not be seen immediately, unless one walks to the eastern cliff of the U-shaped cut (Fig-5). Beyond that point the approach to the cave is further complicated by the steep slope (without the present cement stairs) and the large boulders which fill the U-shaped cut completely (Fig-6), except the difficult to be seen narrow opening which provides access to the cave located on the other side of the boulders. iii. VENTILATED AND SUNNY The rectangular blocks of fresh rock have juxtaposed in such a manner that narrow slits and openings are present (Fig-9), which make the cave ventilated and allow the sun beams to fall inside in the afternoon, keeping the inside atmosphere always fresh. iv. GRANITES ARE FOREVER (the term Granite is being used in general sense) Being a Shield Area, in geological sense, the earth movements are unlikely to happen to collapse the blocks which are juxtaposed without any cementing material (Fig-9). These type of rocks are one of the strongest rock types and particularly in such an arid climate would last for ever. So the cave is likely to be there till the very end of the world. A UNIQUE HOLY PLACE OF ISLAM A unique feature of the holy cave is that it is the most authentic place where the Prophet (SAW) passed a very critical period of his life. It had remained unaltered ever since and has retained its originality. In contrast, all other holy places in Saudia particularly the Haram Sharif and Masjid Al-Nabawi have largely changed to accommodate the everincreasing number of pilgrims. Similarly I had the opportunity to visit Ziaraat (religious historical places) in 1978 as well, and they are now quite different from what I had in mind. At that time all of them were invariably situated in uninhibited areas, still retaining their old looks and rising from the desert and rocky terrain. Fig-9: Inside view of the cave. Note the absence of cementing But now within a lapse of about twenty material along the contacts of joint blocks leaving openings for years most of them have completely ventilation. different looks with macadamized roads and urbanized land all around, particularly Masjid-e-Qiblatain, Masjid-e-Quba, Maidan-e-Uhad, Maidan-e-Khandaq in Madina Al-Munawwara , and Ghar-e-Hira, Ghar-e-Thaur foothills in the vicinity of Makkah Al-Mukarramah. Another thought which kept on striking me at that place was the feeling that it all started here, it all started here. This is another uniqueness of the place that the advent of Islam was right from this place, when the Prophet (SAW) left the place after receiving the first Wahi (Fig-10) in 610 AD.

Thereafter, he embarked upon preaching of the new faith, first to his close relatives/friends and later publicly when the second revelation arrived in 613 AD. The spread of Islam was so phenomenal that within just over a century i.e. by about 740 AD the Arab Bedouins, inspired by the Holy Qur'an and examples of the Holy Prophet (SAW), had carved out an empire stretching from the borders of India (present day Pakistan) to Atlantic Ocean in far west - the largest empire the world had seen till then. WAS IT CUSTOM MADE ? The perfection of the location, meeting the requirements so meticulously and its orientation, all made me think whether or not the cave was custom made by God who Himself guided the last Prophet Muhammad Rasul Allah (SAW) towards it to prepare him for the enormous responsibilities he was destined to undertake. So that was that; a unique fieldwork of my life. EPILOGUE The main objective of this paper is to emphasize that the Prophets (SAW) wholesome personality which is documented in its minutest details, may just not be observed from only a religious point of view. As we respect The Holy Qur'an with such a high reverence that we are sometimes afraid to even touch it, what of following it in our daily life - which is exactly what it is meant for. There is not even a single facet of life on which the Prophets documented guidance is not available for us to at least emulate. Somebody has very aptly remarked that to write on the life of Prophet (Seerat-e-Nabi) is difficult not because references are not available but because there are so many, spread over a period of more than 1400 years. The acts and sayings (Hadith) of the Prophet (SAW) are documented elaborately for posterity. However, it is impe- rative that the validity of Hadith (saying of the Prophet) should always be authenticated through the established references. In the Holy Qur'an (Chapter 24, Sura Haam Meem Sijda, Ayah 6) God in very clear words, has uttered His words through His spokesman Muhammad Rasul Allah that Say, (with emphasis), I am a human being just like you (Qul, Innama Ana Basharum Mislokum). The difference is that he was not only a human being to a highest possible perfection but also humane to the core. Those who read my article in the Daily Dawn dated 27 June, 1999 commented that no body have ever seen the cave in such a manner. Whereas God Almighty and His last Messenger (SAW) himself have always taught for Muslim Ummah (nation) to think and research, which is not just limited to religion, but the entire Fig-10: The first Wahi written on the flat rock. The man praying in the spectrum of life including all the cave is prostrating right in the direction of Kaaba. sciences. We revere the Prophet (SAW) to an extent of not just awe but fear, thinking that even a fraction of his achievements are not possible - which rather leads to escapism. He was on the other hand the most kind, humble and humane personality who passed an extremely practical life. And this is what I learnt from my visit to the Cave of Hira. Wama Alaina Illul Balagh.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Mr. Irfan Lateef Khan is acknowledged for composing the final paper. REFERENCES -Abdul Maabood, M, 1980, Tareekh Al-Makkah Al-Mukarramah (Urdu), Volume-1, published by Maktaba Rehmania, Lahore. -Aghai Ahmed, 1998, Prophet Muhammad - Jurist, General and Statesman, published by Nigar Printing Press, Karachi. -Farsi, Z.A., 1988, Map of Makkah Al-Mukarramah and Holy Places, published by Ministry of Information, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. -Hart, M.H.,1978, The 100, A ranking of the most influential persons in history, published by A&W Publishers, Inc., New York, USA, pp.33-40. -International Petroleum Encyclopedia (IPE), 2000, published by PennWell Corporation, Oklahoma, USA. -Jan, Tarik, 1998, The Life and Times of Muhammad Rasul Allah, Universalizing the Abrahamic Tradition, published by the Institute of Policy Studies, Islamabad. -Misbahuddin, S.,1996, Seerat-un-Nabi Album (Urdu), 2nd Edition, published by Pakistan State Oil, PSO House, Karachi. -Siddiqui, N.K., 1999, A geologists visit to Ghar-e-Hira, published in Sunday Magazine of the Daily Dawn dated 27 June,1999. ____________, 1999, Ghar-e-Hira ki ziyarat, meri zindigi ka aik achoota arziyati jaeza(Urdu), Monthly Magazine Global Science (December), Karachi, pp.34-37.
____________, 2000, The have-nots have it all.., published in Business Section of the Daily Dawn dated 24 July, 2000.

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