SWEET TOMATO PURE

Matesha Masla
The honey sweetness of this specialty from Marrakesh is surprising and enchanting. Serve it cold as an appetizer with bread, or hot to pour over meat or chicken, and sprinkle, if you like, with chopped, toasted almonds or sesame seeds.
SERVES 6

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped salt 1 tablespoon sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon to teaspoon black pepper 1 tablespoon clear honey Heat the oil in a pan and add the tomatoes, a little salt, and the sugar. Cook for 45 minutes, or until the liquid has gone and the pure is thick and jammy and almost caramelized. It is vital to stir often so that it doesn't stick to the pan and burn. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and honey and a little salt to taste, and stir well. Cook for a minute or so more.

BELL PEPPER PURE

Slada Felfla
This bright red, creamy pure has an alluring mix of flavors. Serve it as a dip or to accompany fish.
SERVES 6 TO 8

6 red bell peppers 2 garlic cloves, crushed 4 to 5 tablespoons vinegar or the juice of 1 lemons pinch of ground chili pepper 1 teaspoon ground cumin 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro peel of preserved lemon, chopped (see page 7) Place the peppers on a sheet of foil on an oven tray under a preheated broiler, 2 to 3 inches from the broiler. Turn them until their skins are black and blistered all over. Alternativelyand more easilyroast them in the hottest oven for about 30 minutes, or until they are soft and their skins blistered and blackened, turning them once after 15 minutes. To loosen the skins further, put them in a strong plastic bag, twist it shut, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes. Another old way that has the same effect is to put them in a pan with a tight-fitting lid for the same length of time. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them, and remove and discard the stems and seeds. Blend the peppers to a pure in the food processor with the garlic, vinegar or lemon juice, chili, cumin, olive oil, and a little salt to taste. Put the pure into a serving bowl and mix in the chopped parsley, cilantro, and preserved lemon peel.

ZUCCHINI PURE and BABY PLUM TOMATOES

Slada Bil Gharaa Wal Tamatem
I like the contrasts of color and texture in this little dish that can be served hot or cold.
SERVES 6

1 pound zucchini, cut into thick slices 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 pound baby plum tomatoes, cut lengthwise in half 6 garlic cloves, sliced salt and black pepper 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro Boil the zucchini in salted water until very tender. Drain and chop them with a sharp knife in the colander or strainer, then mash them with a fork, letting their excess water escape. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil, then take it off the heat. Put in the tomatoes, cut side down, and the garlic. Cook over a medium-high heat until the tomatoes have softened and the garlic begins to color. Turn over the tomatoes once, and season with salt and pepper. Add the zucchini pure to the pan with the tomatoes, and stir in 2 more tablespoons olive oil, a little salt, and the chopped parsley or cilantro. Serve hot or cold.

MASHED EGGPLANT and TOMATO SALAD

Zaalouk
I love this popular Moroccan salad. It is best made several hours in advance so that the flavors have time to penetrate.
SERVES 6

1 pounds eggplants juice of to 1 lemon 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 5 garlic cloves, chopped coarsely salt 4 tablespoons argan (see page 31) or extra virgin olive oil teaspoon paprika good pinch of ground chili pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro To garnish: a handful of black olives Prick the eggplants with a pointed knife to prevent them from bursting in the oven. Place them on a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast them in a hot oven preheated to 475F for about 45 to 55 minutes, or until they feel very soft when you press them and the skins are wrinkled. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them in a bowl of water with a little lemon juice to keep their flesh pale.

Drain the eggplants in a strainer or colander with small holes and press out as much of the water and juices as possible. Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes. Cook the tomatoes with the garlic and a little salt over a low heat for about 20 minutes, or until reduced to a thick sauce, stirring occasionally. Mix with the mashed eggplants and the rest of the ingredients and add salt to taste. To serve, spread flat on a plate and garnish with olives.

GRATED CUCUMBER and MINT SALAD

Khiar Bil Na'na
This is a wonderfully refreshing salad. The tiny bit of orange blossom water gives it a mysterious flavor. Try to get small cucumbers from Middle Eastern or Asian stores. They have a better taste and texture than the large ones found in our supermarkets.
SERVES 4

1 large or 3 small cucumbers 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon orange blossom water, or to taste salt leaves of 2 sprigs of mint, finely chopped Peel and grate the cucumber or cucumbers. You can do this in the food processor. Drain off the juices in a colander, and then mix the cucumbers with the rest of the ingredients.

TOMATOES STUFFED with ROAST PEPPERS, TUNA, CAPERS, and OLIVES

Tamatem Ma'Amrine
The tomatoes can be served hot or cold. I prefer them cold. For vegetarians, they make an elegant main dish accompanied by a potato or carrot salad. Use large or beefsteak tomatoes.
SERVES 6

4 red bell peppers salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil one 7-ounce can of tuna, flaked 2 tablespoons capers 4 tablespoons chopped black olives peel of preserved lemon, chopped (optional) (see page 7) 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 6 large tomatoes Place the peppers on a sheet of foil on an oven tray under a preheated broiler, 2 to 3 inches from the broiler. Turn them until their skins are black and blistered all over. Alternativelyand more easilyroast them in the hottest oven for about 30 minutes, or until they are soft and their skins blistered and blackened, turning them once after 15 minutes.

To loosen the skins further, put them in a strong plastic bag, twist it shut, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes. Another old way that has the same effect is to put them in a pan with a tight-fitting lid for the same length of time. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove and discard the stems and seeds. Now cut the peppers into strips about inch wide. Mix with the rest of the ingredients except the tomatoes. Cut a small circle around the stalk of each tomato and cut out a cap. Remove the center and seeds with a pointed teaspoon. Fill the cavities with the roast pepper mixture and replace the caps. Arrange in a shallow baking dish and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the tomatoes are a little soft. Keep a watch, however, that they do not fall apart.

CHICKPEAS with TURMERIC

Hummas
In Morocco, this is considered poor food. It is eaten hot with bread to soak up the juices. You could make it with canned chickpeas, in which case it would take only a few minutes to cook, but for a large quantity like this, it is worth using dried chickpeas, as their taste and texture is better and they will have time to absorb the flavors. You need to soak them in water for a few hours or overnight.
SERVES 6

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon ground turmeric 1 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water overnight salt and black pepper 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until lightly colored. Add the garlic and stir for a moment or two. Stir in the turmeric, then add the drained chickpeas. Cover with about 2 cups water and simmer for 1 hours, or until the chick-peas are very tender, adding salt and pepper when they have softened, and extra water if it becomes too dry. The liquid should be reduced to a thick sauce at the end of the cooking. Stir in the chopped cilantro and parsley and cook for 5 minutes more.

VARIATIONS
A grander version served as a first course is made with teaspoon saffron threads or powder instead of the turmeric. Add the juice of 1 lemon at the end. Dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight, or the canned variety, drained, can be used in the same way as chickpeas.

FISH CAKES
Kefta Bil Hout
These Moroccan fish cakes can be served as a first course with green salad leaves. They also make good finger food for a party. Use cod, haddock, or another firm white fish.
MAKES 15 FISH CAKES

1 pound firm, white fish fillets, skinned 1 teaspoons ground cumin good pinch of chili pepper to 1 teaspoon salt 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 egg, beaten lightly peel of to 1 preserved lemon, finely chopped (see page 7) (optional) handful of chopped flat-leafed parsley or cilantro, or a mix of both about 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour olive oil for deep-frying To garnish: 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Terbiyeli