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Remove phone chassis from rear casing by removing 4 screws in the back and using plastic tools to pry it out. There are 2 spots in the top with plastic tabs anchored into the rear housing. I found it worked well to use cut-up credit cards to stick in there to keep the little tabs from sliding back into the rear housing while I worked on the other tabs. 2. nce phone chassis is removed from rear casing! remove 2 strips of tape from the sides. They look like fabric and one has copper. "ee "tep 2# on ifi$it writeup. %. &se a thin! flat! plastic tool to cut through all the double-sided adhesive tape between the '() module and chassis frame. *otice the gap between two +,T-' parts - the backing of the '() module is also metal. This is where you slide your plastic tool. I used a scrap credit card to do this. .ou will have to go pretty deep near

the top of the phone as there is tape up to an inch from the edge. *otice in my pic where the fle$ cable is/ ) * T go more than %0112 deep in that area3 .ou do * T want to cut or tear the fle$ cable with your tool333 -lso! when you start pulling and lifting the '() module away from the chassis! 4, "&R, to lift up on the left side 5with screen facing you6! allowing the assembly to 2hinge2 on the right edge. ) * T lift the right side up more than a few millimeters because the fle$ is not very long. -lso! heating the phone +-. make cutting through the adhesive easier! though I didn7t bother to heat mine. 4. 'ift the left side of the '() up 5as shown in my pic6! then use twee8ers to remove the orange tape covering the connector and lift up on the little black latch with a small screwdriver or plastic tool. -fter you7ve done that! gently set the '() back into place. 4. Turn the phone over and remove % screws from the bottom logic board as in i9i$it step :1;. *o need to remove the top 2. ;. I disconnected! but did * T remove the bluetooth cable! from the lower circuit board as in i9i$it step :1<. .ou may find it helpful to also disconnect the wiring as shown in i9i$it step :11! but I don7t think I did. 1. Remove the orange tape and lift up the black latch to remove the button fle$ as shown in i9i$it step :1=. #. *ow gently pop up the lower circuit board from the little tabs holding it in and gently lift the side of it where the '() connector is located away from the frame. 'ift it only a few millimeters! you should now be able to see the '() fle$ connector between the chassis and circuit board. &se a small tool like a >eweler7s screwdriver to slide the fle$ out of the connector that you unlatched in step 4. <. *ow you should be able to lift the '() assembly completely off the phone. =. Removing digiti8er from '() is a matter of cutting through the double-sided tape with a plastic tool. -gain! I used a cut-up credit card for this. Try not to go too deep to avoid scratching the '(). 1?. I used >ust regular clear tape to clean off the left over adhesive from the '(). Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Reconnecting the '() is a little tricky! but it7s not bad if you have good manual de$terity. I reconnected0disconnected the '() several times because sometimes during the process I would hear a crack and it would scare me! so I reconnected the '() to power up the phone and make sure I didn7t crack it3 9ortunately! all those sounds that made me nervous came from the old! cracked digiti8er. 'ac@uer thinner on a A-tip works well to clean off the old adhesive tape. I7m sure other solvents would work as well. -lso! double-sided tape worked well and should be used to hold the new digiti8er onto the '()! but I found the entire '() assembly-to-chassis didn7t hold well with the double-sided tape I got off e4ay. ne edge would lift up 1.; to 2mm after a few days of non-use. I ended up lifting up the '() again and removing all the doublesided tape and using Bermate$ adhesive silicone instead! and using big rubber bands to hold it together while it cured. That seems to have worked @uite well.

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