Lactofermented Vegetables

By Lynnet Bannion, March 2007

I.

Lactofermentation Background

Lactofermentation has been a part of human nutrition for many centuries, possibly back to prehistory. he !omans used sauerkraut and other fermented "egetables and fish. #ermented cabbage has been part of the $hinese diet as long as %000 years, both as nutrition and as medicine. &early e"ery traditional diet in climates from subtropical to arctic has used lactic acid fermentation to preser"e and enhance food. Lactic acid fermentation has also been used for dairy products for millennia. Lactobacillus bacteria are the 'orkers, transforming starches and sugars into lactic acid and numerous helpful en(ymes. he lactic acid pre"ents other kinds of decomposition from taking o"er and decaying the food. )ifferent strains of lactobacillus bacteria 'ork on "egetables or dairy products. Lactofermented "egetables are easier to digest, and in fact impro"e the general digestion 'hen taken regularly in small amounts. Vitamins and minerals are more a"ailable. $arbohydrates are broken do'n and therefore re*uire less insulin for digestion, making lactofermented "egetables ideal for diabetics. !esearch has found that taking acetic acid +"inegar, or lactofermented "egetables or their -uice, before or 'ith meals, reduces blood glucose le"els. In addition to the many health benefits, lactofermentation enhances the fla"or of "egetables. he process starts 'ith prepared "egetables, room temperature, and a specific concentration of salt. Vegetables naturally carry these lactic acid bacteria, so no inoculant is needed. he fermentation is an anaerobic process, so air should be e.cluded. he salt pre"ents the putrefying bacteria from getting a start, until the lactic acid bacteria get 'ell established. he lactobacillus bacteria, and the lactic acid they produce, protect the "egetables from unpleasant yeasts and other less/friendly bacteria. Lactofermentation preser"es "egetables for a long time +months, and sometimes e"en years,, but not fore"er.

I learned lactofermentation from 0rsula 1olmes, a farmer at $resset $ommunity #arm in Lo"eland, $olorado, a 2master pickler3. 4he learned her art in 5ermany and 4'eden. 4he freely gi"es this information, 'ithout copyright, and encourages people to try the recipes and techni*ues for themsel"es.

II.

5etting 4tarted

he easiest 'ay for a beginner to start is using half/gallon canning -ars 'ith standard 'ide/mouth lids. hese can be readily obtained, fit in standard/ si(ed refrigerators, and make a reasonable amount of lactofermented "egetables for indi"idual or family use. 6 *uart -ar is too small to allo' a good fermentation to get going7 sometimes it 'orks, sometimes it doesn8t. 4o a half/gallon -ar is a good compromise. 9ou also need a one or t'o/gallon plastic or stainless/steel bucket for the stamping process. 6 'ooden stamper or beetle is helpful, and sa"es your knuckles. his is a cylinder of 'ood, maybe 2/:3 in diameter, 'ith a rounded end and narro'er handle. ;uality of ingredients is "ery important for successful lactofermentation. Vegetables must be organically gro'n and of good *uality. 4torage "egetables such as beets or carrots need not be freshly picked, but should not be dried out or going bad. It is essential that you use chlorine/free 'ater, either from a good 'ell, or filtered, or distilled7 chlorine tends to kill off the bacteria you need to make a good fermentation. 9ou should use pickling salt or sea salt 'ithout additi"es +!eal4alt is also good,, not standard table salt. 6s a beginner, it is essential that you do &< cut do'n on the amount of salt specified in the recipes. Lo'/salt lactofermentation is an ad"anced skill, and it is "ery easy for the "egetables to go bad 'ithout the salt keeping the agents of decay in check. If you are concerned 'ith sodium le"els, ad-ust them in other parts of your food. #or e.ample, cook rice 'ithout salt, and use your salty kimchee as a condiment +as the =oreans do,. )o not try to can these "egetables after they are pickled. It 'ill destroy their essential character, as 'ell as most of the health benefits. hey keep fine for months under refrigeration or in a cool cellar. 9ou )< &< need to add

"inegar to these pickles, regardless of 'hat the 04)6 >.tension 4er"ice bulletin says. hese pickles make their o'n acid. 6dding "inegar 'ill interfere 'ith the fermentation.

III. Basic echni*ues

General description: "egetables are cut or shredded to e.pose a lot of surfaces, salted, pounded to release their -uice, combined 'ith spices as desired, then allo'ed to ferment. 6fter fermentation, the -ars are closed and can be stored under refrigeration or in a cool cellar or root cellar 'here the temperature does not go abo"e ?0 degrees #7 @0 degrees is better. Ahen properly stored, lactofermented "egetables keep for t'o to si. months, sometimes e"en longer. It is important to use a clean fork or spoon each time to transfer "egetables from the storage -ars. 9ou should also push any bits of "egetable that ha"e gotten stranded up on the sides of the -ar do'n into the main batch. 6ir +and the ine"itable molds or bacteria it carries, is a potential source of contaminants. !oot "egetables should be peeled7 leafy "egetables should be 'ell 'ashed. 9our 'ork surfaces and kni"es should be clean. 9ou do not 'ant to introduce dirt into the fermentation as it could send it the 'rong direction. 6fter preparing the "egetables and filling your -ar, place a canning -ar lid +lid and ring as separate pieces, on the -ar, or put one cup of brine +B tsp salt to 2 cups 'ater, into a plastic bag and fit it into the neck of the -ar. +I often use plastic 'rap o"er a -ar of kimchee., )on8t use a solid one/piece lid, since the fermentation needs to outgas. Cut the -ar onto a pie plate or dinner plate, and set it in a dark corner of your kitchen. If your kitchen is "ery hot +as in summer, you may need to choose a cooler place, but it should be at least 70 degrees #. If your kitchen is "ery cold, put the -ar on top of your refrigerator or other 'arm place. Aarmer temperatures cause fermentation to mo"e faster, and cooler temperatures cause it to mo"e slo'er, but if it stalls there is more possibility of problems. 6fter about one 'eek, put the lid on the -ar +if it is not there already, and put it in a cool place, either a refrigerator or a cool cellar +under ?0 degrees but abo"e free(ing,. In general, the "egetables are better after a four/'eek mello'ing period. )uring this time, small amounts of yeast form 'hich add to the fla"or. =imchee is ready to use after its fermentation 'eek.

When to throw out your lactofermented vegetablesD If your "egetables start to de"elop any kind of mold, smell bad or no.ious in any 'ay, or become slimy, compost them. If they are -ust getting a little tired or soft, chickens lo"e them. <nce in a 'hile, a fermentation goes a'ry. It happens oftener if you use chlorinated 'ater or non/organic "egetables, or do not keep the 'ork surfaces clean. oss it out, and try again. If you ha"e a lot of problems 'ith batches going bad, try a different source of 'ater. I ha"e ne"er used a lo'/ p1 'ater, but it might cause problems. Vegetables suitable for lactofermentation: $ucumbers +the original 2pickles37 no "inegar re*uired, Ainter s*uash and pumpkin !oot "egetablesD beets, carrots, rutabaga, turnips, celery root, daikon, black radish 5reen beans, 'a. beans +both must be blanched, Eucchini and summer s*uash Broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflo'er omatoes $abbage +sauerkraut,7 &apa cabbage +kimchee,7 kale, collards, curly endi"e7 not spinach <nions, leeks, peppers s'eet or hot, celery, or corn as part of a mi.ture If you ha"e a "egetable not on this list, gi"e it a try. Bean or pea seeds, e"en 'hen fresh from the pod, are not suitable7 uncooked beans ha"e lectins that interfere 'ith nutrition, and the proteins in cooked beans can cause dangers. 5reen beans, blanched, are fine. Herbs and spices commonly used: $ara'ay seed, dill seed, coriander seed, clo"es, bay lea"es, allspice berries, cinnamon sticks 9ello' mustard seed 1orseradish <nions, garlic, scallions, leeks arragon, sa"ory, dill 'eed Funiper berries

 !aspberry lea"es #resh ginger root 6gain, feel free to try your fa"orite spices and herbs. Other ingredients: 6pples +un'a.ed, Lemons +un'a.ed, Ahey +you can get small amounts by putting plain li"e yogurt in a sie"e and collecting the 'hey that drips out, ;uinces +un'a.ed, 6lmost any fruit or "egetable in smaller *uantities as part of a mi.ture, though I 'ouldn8t use a"ocadoes or potatoes =imchees sometimes use oysters, shrimp paste, or other seafood ingredients7 I ha"e not been bra"e enough to attempt these ingredients.

IV. 1alf/5allon Far !ecipes

Ursulas Sauer raut #or a half/gallon -ar, you need :.? pounds cabbage, B teaspoon cara'ay seed, B tablespoon sea salt. 9ou can add optional ingredients from the follo'ing listD peeled sliced garlic7 'ashed, cored and sliced apples7 peeled onions cut into eighths7 dill seed7 -uniper berries7 or other spices. Aash cabbage and cut into thin shreds, 'ith a kraut cutter, mandoline, food processor, or by hand 'ith a knife. Mi. cabbage shreds 'ith the salt in a large bo'l or small plastic bucket, and let stand for B? minutes. hen press the cabbage 'ith your fist or a 'ooden stamper until the -uice is flo'ing 'ell. It is important to crush the "egetables enough to create the -uice. Cack the -uicy shreds into your -ar in layers, interspersing the cara'ay and any other ingredients you are using. Cack tightly enough that all the air is

pressed out. 9ou should lea"e about t'o inches of space belo' the lid. If you don8t ha"e enough, you can add a little brineD B tsp salt to one pint 'ater. Cut the lid on and scre' do'n, but not really tight. Cut the -ar on a plate or pie tin, and keep in a dark corner of your kitchen for one 'eek. hen put in a cold place for another four 'eeks to mello'. 4auerkraut keeps many months under proper storage conditions +pro"ided you keep out of it that long,. Ursulas !arrot "ic le #or half/gallon -arD 2 pounds carrots, G pound rutabaga, B medium onion, H pound &apa cabbage, B2 allspice berries, B teaspoon 'hole coriander, B teaspoon yello' mustard seed, @ bay lea"es, B tablespoon sea salt, :/@ clo"es peeled garlic. Ceel, 'ash and grate or shred in food processorD carrots and rutabaga. rim and cut finely the &apa cabbage. Ceel and *uarter the onion. Cut the carrots, rutabaga and cabbage into a bucket. 6dd the salt. Cress 'ith your fist or 'ith a 'ooden stamper until the -uice is flo'ing 'ell. Cack into your -ar in layers, one/fourth of the "egetables, one/fourth of the spices, until all are in. Cress that last *uarter of an onion into the "egetables. Cut lid on, put -ar on a plate or pie tin, keep in a dark corner of your kitchen for one 'eek. hen put in a cold place for another four 'eeks to mello'. $arrot pickle keeps many months under proper storage conditions. Ursulas #eet $elish #or half/gallon -ar, 2 to 2 G pounds beets, G pound &apa cabbage, : ounces chopped apple, : ounces chopped onion, B tablespoon plus B teaspoon sea salt, and mustard seed, bay lea"es or pickling spice to taste. Beets, 'ith all their sugars, turn out a fierce fermentation. It is good to add other "egetables such as the &apa in this recipe, or rutabaga or turnip, so that you are not using only beet. Ceel, 'ash and grate or shred the beets in food processor. rim and cut finely the &apa cabbage. Cut beets and cabbage into a bucket 'ith the salt, and press 'ith your fist or a 'ooden stamper until the -uice is flo'ing 'ell. Cack into your -ar in layers, interspersing the apple, onion, and spices. Be sure to lea"e at least t'o inches belo' the lid. Cut lid on -ar loosely, and be 40!> to put the -ar into a pie tin. Beets can run o"er the top of the -ar since

they ha"e a "igorous fermentation. Cut the -ar in a dark place in your refrigerator for one 'eek. hen 'ash the sides of the -ar if needed, and keep in a cold place for another four 'eeks to mello'. =eeps many months under proper storage conditions. Ursulas Summer %i&ed "ic les hese pickles are fun7 use 'hat you ha"e around the garden. Cossible ingredients areD $orn kernels, cut off cob $ut green beans +blanch in boiling 'ater for : minutes, then drain,7 use young beans for this, before the bean seeds are mature omatoes, cut up <nions, peeled and cut up Eucchini, shredded7 remo"e seeds before shredding Ceppers, hot or s'eet, seeded and sliced Broccoli, cut into small pieces $auliflo'er, cut into small pieces &apa or green cabbage, shredded $ut/up small un'a.ed cucumbers 9ou8ll 'ant about : G pounds of "egetables for a half/gallon -ar. 6ugment 'ith dill seed, mustard seed, or other spices as desired. 9ou 'ill be using B tablespoon sea salt. If you ha"e 2 tablespoons 'hey, you can add it to these pickles. Crepare all "egetables by 'ashing and cutting. Blanch green beans if you are using them. 6dd salt, and stamp "egetables lightly, not enough to turn them into a homogeneous mush. Cack the "egetables tightly into the -ar. If the -uices do not come to 'ithin t'o inches of the lid, fill 'ith brine +BI2 teaspoon sea salt per cup of 'ater,. Cut lid on, put -ar on a plate or pie tin, and let ferment in a dark place for one 'eek. hen cap tightly, and keep in a cold place. 'actofermented !ucumbers

#or half/gallon -ar, 2 G pounds pickling cucumbers, one medium onion, sea salt, B teaspoon yello' mustard seeds, dill blossoms to taste. 9ou can choose optional ingredients from the follo'ing listD 2/: clo"es peeled garlic7 B teaspoon coriander seeds7 : bay lea"es, raspberry, currant or grape lea"es7 B or 2 small hot red peppers +dried is okay,7 one 6naheim or s'eet green pepper, seeded and sliced. he cucumbers should be the pickling "ariety, and absolutely must be un'a.ed. 9ou can use smaller cucumbers or larger ones cut into pieces, but they should be of consistent si(e in each batch. Ceel and cut the onion in *uarters. If you are using small 'hole cucumbers, poke a couple of holes in each 'ith a sharp knife. If you are using large cucumbers, cut them into chunks. If the cucumbers are getting old and tough, you can still use them, by peeling and seeding them. Cack the cucumbers tightly into your -ar, along 'ith your choice of seasonings. Make a brine of 2 tablespoons sea salt per *uart of 'ater. Cour this brine o"er the "egetables. If you need a little more, make it using the same proportionsD G tablespoon salt per cup of 'ater. If you ha"e raspberry, currant or grape lea"es, layer them on the top. $ap -ar, put on plate or pie tin, keep in a dark place for one 'eek. If a little layer of 'hite yeast +kahm yeast, sho's up on the lea"es, don8t 'orry. It should not affect the cucumbers. 6fter the fermentation 'eek, remo"e lea"es, cap -ar and keep in a cold place. $ucumbers are ready to eat after t'o 'eeks mello'ing. In my e.perience, they do not keep *uite as 'ell as sauerkraut or other pickles, so plan to eat them 'ithin a fe' months +0rsula says her pickled cucumbers can last for up to 2 years,. 'ynnets Simple (imchee #or half/gallon -ar, B G pounds &apa cabbage, B pound daikon radish, : tablespoons sea salt, B G tablespoons peeled and sliced garlic, % scallions trimmed and sliced or G cup trimmed sliced leek, 2 tablespoons peeled and thinly sliced ginger, B tablespoon fine *uality medium hot chile po'der, B teaspoon sugar. he choice of chile po'der is important for the e"entual taste of your kimchee. Many recipes call for cayenne pepper, 'hich makes a ferociously hot kimchee. I use &e' Me.ico chile po'der +usually 6ncho but 1atch is good too, from &ati"e 4eedsI4>6!$1, 'hich is a"ailable for online ordering. heir chile po'ders are intensely fla"ored, of "arying degrees of heat. $hoose one to your taste.

Aash &apa cabbage and cut in half length'ise. $ut out the core, chop the rest in appro.imate B.?3 s*uares. Ceel daikon and slice J3 thick. In a large nonreacti"e bo'l, mi. % cups 'ater and 2 tablespoons and 2 teaspoons salt. hen put in the radish and &apa, dunking them in the 'ater. Let stand K/B2 hours, dunking occasionally. 6t the end of this period, prepare the rest of the spices along 'ith B teaspoon sea salt and B teaspoon sugar into a mi.ing bo'l +a second bo'l,. 4coop the "egetables out of the brine into the bo'l 'ith the spices, mi. 'ell. !eser"e the brine. Cack the "egetables reasonably tightly into your -ar. Be sure to pour in any li*uid left in the bottom of your mi.ing bo'l. hen fill the -ar up to the neck 'ith the reser"ed brine. $o"er -ar loosely, put on a plate or pie tin, and keep in a dark place. =imchee takes from fi"e to nine days to ferment, depending on the ambient temperature. 6t fi"e days, start tasting the brine 'ith a clean spoon. Ahen it is sour enough to your taste, your kimchee is done. $ap tightly and keep in a cold place. It is ready to use at once, and 'ill keep many months under refrigeration +or buried out in your yard if you li"e in =orea,. (orean )urnip "ic le his pickle can be made in a *uart si(e, or smaller. #or one *uart, ha"e B pound smallish, youngish turnips, B tablespoon sea salt, 2 'hole dried hot red peppers, 2 tablespoons minced scallions or leeks, ? clo"es garlic peeled and minced, and G teaspoon sugar. It is nice made 'ith nice young small turnips, but can be nearly as good 'ith middle/aged middle/si(ed turnips, and is not "ery good 'ith old, large, pithy turnips. I like to use the $atarina peppers from &ati"e 4eedsI4>6!$1, fla"orful and medium hot, but you could use other dried hot red peppers. $rush the peppers coarsely +'ash your hands carefully after'ard, and don8t touch your eyesL,. Ceel turnips, cut in half, and sliced cross'ise "ery thinly. Cut turnips in a small nonreacti"e bo'l and sprinkle 2 teaspoons sea salt o"er them, rubbing the salt in 'ith your fingers. Let stand : hours, turning o"er occasionally. )rain the turnips, rinse, and drain again. In a bo'l, mi. turnips 'ith B teaspoon salt, red peppers, scallions, garlic, and G teaspoon sugar. Cack into a *uart -ar. 6dd enough 'ater to co"er the turnips. $o"er loosely, put -ar on

a plate, and keep in a dark place in your kitchen for appro.imately 7 days. 6fter ? days, start testing brine 'ith a clean spoon daily, and 'hen it is sour enough for your taste, cap -ar and keep in the refrigerator. 6 plastic cap is better, since metal caps tend to corrode. 0se as a condiment, like other kimchees. $ussian #rined 'emons Fust for fun, if you ha"e access to small thin/skinned 0&A6M>) lemons, you can make a delicious !ussian pickle. Aash and dry the lemons. Cack into a -ar +*uart or half/gallon,. )o not cut them up. Mi. up a brine at the rate of B tablespoon sea salt per K ounce cup of 'ater. #ill your -ar 'ith the brine. Cut some more brine into a plastic bag, fit it into the neck of the -ar to keep the lemons submerged. 4tore in your refrigerator. 6fter three 'eeks take the brine bag off, and put a lid on the -ar. hey8ll keep a long time, e"en more than a year, 'ith this much salt on them. 1o' to useD 9ou can make a 'onderful lemonade 'ith these lemons. #or one *uart of lemonade, puree one or t'o lemons in a little 'ater in your blender, strain to remo"e the seeds, s'eeten to taste. Most refreshing 'ith the salt, the sugar, and the lemon fla"or. +)on8t peel the lemons., hey are also good sliced thinly in the broth 'hen you cook chicken. I8m sure you8ll come up 'ith other uses too. #or those 'ho ha"e lemon trees of their o'n, it8s a great 'ay to sa"e the crop for future use.

V.

Larger Batches

Ahen you ha"e been successful 'ith se"eral batches of half/gallon pickles, you may 'ish to try the ?/gallon plastic bucket. his makes sense if you ha"e a large garden, a large group to feed, and a cool storage area for your buckets. If you ha"e a large fermentation crock, you could also use that. 4cale up the amounts by appro.imately B0 times, e.cept that you may not need to increase the spices by *uite that much. Be sure to scale up the salt correctly. 9ou can stamp the "egetables directly in the bucket. Be sure to stamp the "egetables ade*uately to get the -uices flo'ing. 4tart 'ith one three/inch layer of "egetables, one/fourth of your salt, and stamp 'ell. 6dd one/fourth of your spices. hen add the ne.t three to four inch layer of "egetables and repeat. Ahen you ha"e filled your bucket a fe' inches from

the rim, that8s enough. 0se a large plate 'hich fits closely inside the bucket, and press the plate do'n so that air is e.cluded from the "egetables. hen co"er the bucket 'ith its lid, and put the bucket some'here that 'on8t be damaged if the -uice o"erflo's slightly. #erment the bucket of "egetables in a 'arm place, around 70 degrees # though it 'ill be okay up to K0 degrees. 6fter one 'eek, put the bucket into a cool place, under ?0 degrees but abo"e free(ing. Let the "egetables mello' for four 'eeks for the best fla"or as in the half/gallon si(e. o use "egetables, 'ith a clean spoon, dip enough for a 'eek or t'o out of your bucket, replacing the lid. Be sure to push any e.tra "egetable from the sides back into the main body of "egetables. =eep your 'eek8s supply in a -ar in the refrigerator. 9ou don8t 'ant to open the bucket too often, running the chance of introducing something unfriendly into the bucket. If you use a standard fermentation crock, you 'ill need a tight/fitting co"er +'hich is usually 'ood, that fits do'n inside the crock, and a couple of clean stones to keep the co"er pressed tightly against the "egetables. =ahm yeast may form, 'hich is a 'hite thready yeast that is harmless but changes the fla"or unpleasantly. $heck on your "egetables e"ery 'eek or t'o, and if there is any sign of kahm yeast, 'ash the lid and stones thoroughly and scoop off the affected "egetables. hen replace the lid and stones, making sure to e.clude the air. he crock is so much more 'ork than a standard ?/ gallon 'hite bucket, that I 'ould not recommend it. #ermentation crocks 'ith airlocks are also a"ailable. his a"oids the problem of kahm yeast, and the nuisance of 'ashing and skimming.

VI. 0sing 9our Lactofermented Vegetables

9ou can use your "egetables as pickles or condiments on the plate 'ith most kinds of food. Lactofermented beets can be used to make borscht, and in fact this 'as the origin of borscht, forgotten no'. 9ou can add most shredded "egetable pickles to salads of "arious types. 4auerkraut is 'ell kno'n 'ith 5erman and Middle >uropean food, cooked 'ith meats, used as a condiment, or put in salads. $ucumbers of course can be eaten as themsel"es, or cut up in de"iled eggs, egg salad, potato salad, and other such foods.

=imchees are often eaten 'ith rice dishes, especially 'ith =orean food. =imchee pancakes are delicious. Mi. B cup rice flour or 'heat flour 'ith BI2 cup 'ater, stir in B cup chopped cabbage kimchee, and cook in a greased skillet in pancakes :/@3 across. urn o"er once. he -uice from lactofermented pickles, particularly cucumber pickles, is delicious in salad dressing, de"iled eggs, or potato salad. It is a nice substitute for "inegar in most uses.

VII. 6nnotated Bibliography

Making Sauerkraut and Pickled Vegetables at Home, =laus =aufmann and 6nnelies 4choneck, 6li"e Books, 2002. his is a particularly nice book, co"ering e"ery aspect of lactofermentation. Nourishing Traditions, 4ally #allon, &e' rends Cublishing $ompany, BNNN. 4he has a full chapter on fermented "egetables and fruits. 1er recipes call for fermenting the "egetables only t'o to four days7 by my e.perience that is not enough. Wild Fermentation, 4andor >lli. =at(, $helsea 5reen Cublishing $ompany, 200:. In addition to a chapter on "egetable ferments, he co"ers dairy ferments, grain ferments, 'ines, "inegars, beers, and more. The Kimchee Cookbook, =im Man/Fo, Lee =you/ ae, Lee </9oung. Ceriplus >ditions Ltd, distributed in the 0.4. by urtle Cublishing, BNNN. More than eighty recipes for all seasons and a "ariety of "egetables are included in this book, along 'ith historical and cultural information on the importance of kimchee to =orean society. his is an ama(ing book. cidic Foods 'eb page, by )a"id Mendosa. Includes an article by =ay 4chmidt on using lactofermented "egetables in diabetes. httpDII'''.mendosa.comIacidicOfoods.htm