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8625
AMATEUR WORK,
ILLUSTRATED.
A PRACTICAL MAGAZINE OF
WITH SUPPLEMENTS,
Containing Designs ana tEorking trainings to ^rak, for
VOLUME
III.
NEW
SERIES.
WARD, LOCK, BOWDEN & CO., LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE.
?
i:
vy
..<
.^
INDEX TO VOLUME
PAGE
III.
(NEW
PAGE
See
SERIES),
10
34
to
do it--.
Up
30 69
i23
Card
Cardboard Dark Slide for Photographers, A Carpet and Floor-cloth Laying, Hints on
Carriage Jack, A Casts, To Bronze Plaster
(
,
PAGE Covering for Steam Pipes 476 Crane, How to Make a Model Electric Crane. Electric See 82 Crib for the Youngster, A Cube on the Lathe, How to Turn a ... 326 ... Cupboard, A Bedside Pedestal 33 2 Cupboard, with Curved Front, A
473
54
195 197 16
An
VI. A Cabinet of Marvels VIZ. Illusion (continued) ... VIII. The Mysterious Drum
Wand (continued) 173 Effective Sleight- of- Hand Trick 243 272
... ...
5 21
...
Wrinkles for
314 384
113
'
Amateur
Jewellery
Manipulation
...
and Repairs
2S9
491 232
To Mend Broken Plaster Cement for Fastening Glass to Tin... Cement on Tiles, To Remove Chain, How to Casta Chair, An Architectural Hall Old English, in Cut Chair, An
Casts,
...
535
345
390
232 436
Dark Room, A Frame with Sliding Sashes for Dark Slide, A Cardboard Davenport Writing Desk, with Concealed Flap,
473 199
Leather
Chair,
See
386
39 566
...
209
22
1
Chameleon Table, A
Chestnut Roaster, A Chicken-coop and Run, A
China-Painting,
546 Deer Horns, To Polish Designs for Hanging Shelves and 35 Corner Brackets Design for Corner Cupboard with Curved Front 5 21 Design for Fretwork Bracket 557 Design for Overmantel in Carved
More Hints on
in
...
90
313 358
Bamboo Work, A
Bath.
1
Chinese Varnish
336 500
Wood
483
A Toning
Combined
...
Fixing
... ...
and
...
Attachments
Bell
The
Face-
Designs, Three, for Fretworkers ... 608 Detective Cameras 573 Portable Developing Cabinet, A
Photographic
Dialyte Telescope Dishes, To Coat Tin
223
...
42
...
193
Bedside or Pedestal Cupboard, A ... 332 Bell, The Electric See Electric Bell. Blacking, A Good Stove 300 Black Polish on Brass, How to Obtain 211 Blow-Pipe, Asbestos 22 Blue Prints, Albumen Paper for ... 10 Bookbinders, Amateur, Some Hints
for
34
The Mandrel Wooden Chucks ... The Pipe-maker's Chuck... n The Independent Four-jaw Chuck 74 Church Clocks How to Make One for a Trifle. Wheels Frame I. Introduction Escapement Drum for Winding Maintaining Power ... 470 II. Weight Carried on Pulleys Steel Wire Rope Centre Wheel Pallet Pallet Escape Wheel
II.
:
Chuck The
Chuck
605
54
461
469 432
..
Drawing-room Overmantel, A Drawings or Diagrams for Lantern Use without the Aid of Photography Drill Clamp, A
Drying Rack, A Negative Easel Portfolio, An
Easel,
202 190
112
496
577 182
'564
Handy
Pendulum
III.
526
'
Dead-beat, or
Bookbinders, Wrinkles for 306 Book Cabinets, Revolving. See Revolving Book Cabinets. Bookcase with Sliding Doors Book-rest, A Folding Book-rest, A Pocket Bracket, A Plush Bracket, A Design for Corner Bracket in Fretwork, Design for Brasses, Rubbings of Monumental Brass-mounting in Furniture, To
Graham" Escape-
Illuminated
clusion
Easily Made Camera, An Easily Made Printing Press Electric Alarm to a Clock,
How
to
211
Attach an
Electric Bell
I.
:
Circular
How to
See
to Construct it. Temperature Materials Swedish Magnet Cores Frame Iron ... ... 345 Bobbins Armature Action of Electric Bell Explained
How
211
Trembling Bell Wooden BaseFitting Frame Box Tables to VI III. Varieties of the Electric Bell
I.
197 79 70
...
395 446
IV. Methods
Renew
432 16
Coloured Photos 569 Colour Photography 457 Combination Table, Cupboard, and 282 Coal Box, A Combined Toning and Fixing Bath,
V.
of
Key
Underground
Electric
Wires
to
Wires_ Outside
536
Wires Conclusion
Crane,
How
...
Make a
294
410
197
To
Photographic
42
Model.
I.
223
7o
28
Conjuring, Amateur. See Amateur Conjuring. Constant Level Inkstand, A New ... 304 CornerCupboard with Curved Front, Design for a 521
Making
Crane Motors
II.
Arm
3 2
III.
SERIES).
INDEX TO VOLUME
I'
{NEW
AGE
469
PAGF.
Make a
605
Model
Electric Lighting for Amateurs.
I.
Introductory Considerations
The
Value of Electric Lights Light... ... ... 356 ing Powers, etc.
II.
Small
ing
Dynamos
Gasfitting for Amateurs. Pipe Fixing Pendant I. Tools Blowing Joints Pipe Hooks ... 541 II. Boring with Bell Bit Supports for Pipe under Floor Cutting Hole in Pipe Pipe Tongs Gas Pliers Tube CuttersScrew-plate Cork Slide Pendant Testing for 602 Conclusion Escape ElectroPith-ball and Gold-leaf scopes, How to Make 379
590
See Chucks for My Lathe. Lathe, How to Turn a Cube on the... 326 Lathe, A Simple Fret-saw for the ... 85 Lathe and Circular Saw by Wind Power, How to Drive.
I.
Introduction
256
II.
Gong Stand
in
Bamboo Work
Uprights wheels
clusion
90 287 232
III.
Power Required
How
Work Dynamos
Arrange the Lamps Safe Carrying Capacity of Wires Edison - Swan Cables and Lamps Switches Cut Outs, etc. 436
to
IV. Electric Lighting by Batteries Four-Celled Single Fluid Chromic Acid Battery A Double Fluid
Governor for Model Engine Hall Chair in Ash or Oak, Easy Construction of an Architectural Hall Stand, How to Make a Hall, Treatment of Old-fashioned ... Hammock Chair, A Swinging.See Swinging Hammock Chair.
Lavatory Cupboard,
...
477
417 30
350 116
147
Lever Engine, A
Leyden Jar,
577
How
to
Make a
169
Handy Easel Hanging Lamp and Jardiniere Hanging Shelves, Design for ... Hints for Amateur Bookbinders Hints on Carpet and Floor-cloth
...
590
365 34
Plates Making
the Cells
and
Charging
552
Electric
Pocket
..
Accumulator
Electric Roundabout Electric Seesaw Electrical Balance, An
...
...
592
492
529
1
Electroscopes
to Use Enamelling Photo Prints
379
Enamel
Paint,
How
Laying 54 ... Hints on China Painting, More 336 Hints on House Decoration by Photography. See House Decoration. Hints for Student Decorators 306 Hot Water Fittings_ for Small Houses. I. Scope of these Papers Theory of Hot Water Circulation An Interesting Experiment The Tank
86 the Connections Size and Position ... ... ... ... of Tanks 131 Taps III. Baths and their Fittings
II.
Electric See Electric. Lighting, Lighting. 550 Limes for the Lantern Liquid Bronze 4 ID Locomotive, How to Make a Model ... 522 Magic Lantern, How to Make and Use it, with Full Instructions for Making a 50 Outfit for 5.
I.
Introduction
Wood
II.
to struction
36
for the
Lining
Lan67
the
Body The
Mo
160
Lenses
III
21
100
147
Engine,
Lever
Fitting
Up
An
Engraving,
graving.
15
Wood.
on
See
Wood
En-
Glass for Magiclantern Slides, To Transfer Engravings, Soiled, To Clean Equatorial Mounting for Telescopes. See Telescopes. Etching Metals, A New Method of ... Fancy Coal Box, A... Fancy Tables, Two Fastening Glass to Tin, Cement for Few Notes on Furniture Revivers, A Few Ideas in Woodwork, A Fire Engine, Electric Fitments for Rooms Flash Light, A Magnesium Flower Pot Cover, A Sussex Flowers, To Make Wax Folding Book-rest, A Folding Music Stand, A Folding Tray-shelf, A Footstool, A Strong, Useful Nursery
Engraving
222
16
Overflow Pipe Waste Water Safety Trays Precaution in Using Hot Water Systems Randall's Patent Taps Con-
rator Using the Light for Stage Purposes A Word about Limes 2E6 55 Magic Lantern, Limes for Mrgic Lantern Slides, To Transfer
VI
Brasswork The Retort Purifier 238 and Gas Bag Making the Gases Ether Satu-
Hints on.
I.
Engravings for
222
Selection
35 79 340
535
411 157
II.
605
599 99
331
III.
of Negatives Opalines for Ornamenting a Table A Door Panels Chess Board Transparencies and their ProducMethod of Mounting tion ... Films for Transparencies A Lamp Shade Ivory Films A Hall Lamp Transferotype Paper Lamp Globes Cups Plates
99 350
58
Costume
Characters
Ladies Character and Low Comedy Parts General ReMaking-up for Ladieson marks
Elderly
on
of
Method
Backs
Fabric Decorating
etc.
25
^2
Novel Chair
The
Expression
516
534
143
220
129
53
Hall Lantern Candle BracketsMedicine Cupboard China Cheese Stand Flower Bowl Method of Mounting Transparencies Hand Screens Fire Screens Hanging Basket
VIII
Making-up
_ Low
Wan
165
555
Force-pump,
A Model
Stools,
Jardiniere
...
...
...
..,
House Steps:
of
Forms and
How
How
to
to
Make
174
Make a
Pair
Them
Frame, An Artistic Picture Frame, with Sliding Sashes, for Photographic Dark Room Frames, Two Photo Framing, Picture ... Fret-saw for Lathes, A Simple ... Fretwork, A Design for Bracket Fretwork Note Rack, A
How to Make-up
Death Sailors, etc. and Sallow ComplexionsDark Complexions IX. Making-up for Various Characters The Diunkard (continued) Nations, Types of Different Scotch, Irish, French, Germans,
Lad14 2
2oy
185
118
for the Stage. See Make-up for the Stage. Ideas in Woodwork, A Few 157 Improved PipeCleaner, An ... ... 476 Index, A Rough and Ready Way to
X. National
make an
Inlay
210
274
Designs
Fretwork, or Inlay Designs 274 ... 60S Fretworkers, Three Designs for Furniture Revivers, A Few Notes on 411 Furniture, To Renew Brass Mounting on 14
Inkstand, A New Constant Level ... 304 Jack, A Carriage 195 Jardiniere 590 Jewellery, Amateur, Manipulation
(continued), Types Chinese, Japanese, Egyptians, Arabs, Persians, Hindoos, Negroes, American Indians, Other Characters, Clowns, Pantaloons, 229 Statuary, Jews
XL On
tachesHome-made Beards and Whiskers Materials RequiredBending the Wire Braiding the Wire Sewing Hair on Wire
Crepe
in
and Repairs of Joint between Glass and Water-tight Knife Cleaner, A Simple
113
Zinc,
..:
A
...
Hair and
its
Manipula32 S
35 96
III
Amateur
SERIES).
PAGS
INDEX TO VOLUME
XII. Removing the Make-up from the Face The Right Way and the Wrong Lead Poisoning caused through Impure Grease Paints
{NEW
258
308 Sons'
The
PAGE
Printing
Processes
N;:;i
The Best Way of Removing the Make-up Effectually and Quickly Washing in Warm and Cold Water Removing Paint and Powder from the Hair Open Wounds on the Face and their
Cure
Reliable Theatrical
Toilet
SylvastOF Vevers' Practical Amateur Photography Gent's Electrical Catalogue Screws and Screw Making ... 412 The Photography Annual Safety
360
Preparations for the Skin, Teeth, Eyes, and Hair ... 404 ... ... Medical Coil, A Pocket. See A Pocket
451
Choice of the Lathe 254 Texture of Metals Tools ... III. Turning Small Rods Steadies Light Bent Cranks 324 Jaw Chuck Turning Cylinder Cover Turning Piston Rings
II.
Rudder Fittings 465 The Teacher's Handbook of Slojd Electrician Primers The Mimeograph The Optical Magic Lantern and Photographic Enlarger The Amateur ... ... ... ... ... 51S The Cantilever Bowl Castor Zilles' Working Drawings for Cabinet
tives Their Good and Bad Qualities Contact Printing on Albumenized Silver Paper Useful Hints Trimming and Washing the Prints Toning Solutions Toning with the Acetate of Soda Bath Treatment of Prints with Common Washing Soda Toning to a Purple Tone Treatment of Prints with Salt Toning to a warm Brown Washing and Fixing Final Washing and Dry*
ing
301
Makers New
Models
Tool
Series of Geographical
Photographic Still, How to Make a ... 134 Photographic Studio, An Amateur's 289 Photography, Colour 457 Photography, Portrait by Artificial
Light
17
Dog-Chuck
V. Slotted Face-Plate Bolts and Dogs Turning Eccentric Sheaves
374
The Victor Child's Carriage ... Notes on Soldering Note Rack, A Fretwork Nursery Footstool, A Old English Chair in Cut Leather
Old-fashioned Hall, Treatment of
614
578
253
129
...
...
by.
Lining
^ I.
Out Chucking
...
Plates
...
436 30
...
Solid
Conical
drel
Wooden
424
Organ Building,
I.
Practical.
Man-
509
544 587
nS Photo Frames, Two Photo Lantern Slides: How to Make them by a New Method 396 100 Photo Prints, Enamelling Photos, Coloured 569 209 Picture Frame, An Artistic
Picture Framing Pipe Cleaner, An Improved Plaster Casts, To Bronze Plaster Casts, To Mend
Plaster, Mixing
...
204
Mandrel
Turning
II.
Brasses ... ... ... VII. Boring Drills Drill Plate VIII. Conclusion
Tools Required Specification and General Description of the Instrument ... Woods Kinds and Quantities Ground Frame Building Frame
HobbyThe
476
197
16
256
Metals, A New Method of Etching ... 35 Model Cutter, A 21S Model Electric Orane.See Electric
III.
... ...
IV.
Crane.
Wood
63
316
Model Electric Fire Engine Model Force Pump. A Model Locomotive, How to Make a ... Model Railway Building: Permanent Way. I. Introduction Making Wheels
605
53 522
369
...
...
VIII.
II.
Way
1
Materials for Rails How to Lay the Rails and Sleepers Points
^7
The Keyboard Organ, Tubular Pneumatic Action for Small Ornamental Clock Case, An Ornamental Turning, Some Chapters on Simple.
I.
439 484
561
29
Plush Bracket, A Pneumatic Action for Small Organs Pocket Medical Coil, A. Coil Bobbins I. Case Arrangement for Make II. Insulator and Break Battery Conclusion... Pocket Music Stand and Book Rest... Polish Deer Horns, To Polish on Brass, A Black Polish, A Quick Drying Polish to Stand Hot Dishes
376
561
2S
507
97
Polish,
Wax
Farm How an Amateur made
:
and Shunts
III. Signals
...
...
...
Accessories Conclusion
Brasses, Rubbings of
...
...
j6 2
226
131
Monumental
Mountant, A Good
84
Simplicity of Ornamental Turning Cost of Outfit General Outline of Method in Ornamental Turning 245 Shank Body of II. Eccentric Cutter ... Cutter Disc 297 Slide Guides Forgings for III. 334
Poultry
one Pay
3S
Music Holder in Bamboo Work ... Music Stand or Book Rest. A Pocket Music Stand, A Folding Negative, To Improve Negative Drying Rack Negatives, Paper Negatives, To Remove Varnish from New Method of Etching Metals ... Notes on Novelties.
Journal of Microscopy and Xatural
313
IV. Fluting Cutter Pulleys Overhead Division Plate ... ... ... 302 V. Cutting Screws in the Lathe Index Pointer Stops Best Slide Rest
223 Portable Developing Cabinet ... Portable Whole-plate Camera, A 547 Portrait Photography by Artificial 17 Light Practical Organ Building. See Organ
Building.
... Printing Press, An Easily Made Printing Processes, Photographic Photographic Printing ProSee
564
202 !,,
oo
I12
43
Ornamental Turning 444 VI. Turning Shallow Box Process of Ornamenting Turning Reel Stand 508 VII. Instructions for Turning Ornafor
mental Patterns
424 3-
Conclusion
...
546
193
53 91 28 28
112
483 432
in
Brazz-o-line The Amateur 100 Hasluck's Cabinet Worker's Handbook Photography for Architects The Building and Machine Draughtsman The John Wilkinson Company's
Science Fruit Trade Journal The Amateur Writer The Optical Magic Lantern and Photographic Enlarger The Amateur The Art Workman Wood Engraving The Pitkin Pocket LampWilcox's Paper Letters The Britannia Company's Buyers' Guide
Overmantel, A Drawing-room
Over Piano, An
Paint Brush,
47
354
How
to Treat
a New
...
117
21
Enamel Paint Spots from Wood, To Remove Paper Negatives and other SubstiPaint, to use
How
Racquet: How
Simple
to Re-string
Refrigerator for
270
394
14
Tool
tutes for Glass Paper, To Make Transparent Paper or Leather, Waterproof Papier Mache, To Renovate
43
327
...
Revolving Book Cabinets, and How to Make them. FrameMaterial Introduction I, Bars Feet Shelves work
Plate
II.
...
...
34 1
3% z
posure Metre Engineers' Tools ... 150 Engineers' Tools The Photographic Art J:urnal 205
III.
Adaptibility of Revolving Cabinets Substitute for Rails DecoraProvision for Folios and tion
Large Volumes
4 20
SERIES).
PAGE
INDEX TO VOLUME
PAGE
IV. Step Arrangement of Revolving Cabinet Revolving Cabinet with Turned Pillars and with Desk Top 512
III.
{NEW
PAGE
.. ..
A Chestnut Rosewood, Staining in Imitation of... Roundabout, The Electric Rubbings of Monumental Brasses See-saw, The Electric
Roaster,
Sett -Board for Entomologists, to Make and Use Sharpening Tools, A Stone for
Slides,
386
241
34o
Waterproof Writing Ink, To Make Waterproof Paper or Leather Water-tight Joint between Glass and
54 274
35
Mounting
Motion of Stars Parallel with the Equator The Polar Axis Co-
Wax Wax
To Make
97 32
Where Did
How
261
...
332
To Transfer Engravings
ordinate to the Latitude of the Point of Observation How to find the Angle of Elevation Finding the true North Conerting Longitudes into Time,
Put It? Wheels for Hand-cart. I. Tools Nave Frame Spokes Spokeboy Shoulder Gauge ...
II. 2 34
for
222
II,
East or West
Magic Lantern
Sliding Doors, Bookcase with Soap Box, A Soiled Engravings, To Clean Soldering, Notes on Some Hints for Amateur Bookbi
Gnomon
for the Polar Axis Mode of Constructing the latter Marking the Declination Axis Testing Fixing in Position for Accuracy Clamping Circles 275
Tenoning Spokes Mortising Felloes Templet for Felloes Fitting up Wheel Fixing Tyre Boxing Wheels Painting ... 502
427
Whitewash that
Whole-plate Portable
will
...
66
547
Camera
:
How to Make
nders
Spectres, Dissolving Sprinkler, A Clothes Stage, How to "Make-up" for. See How to " Make-up " for the Stage. Stain for Floors, A Good Staining in Imitation of Rosewood Stand for Vase, A Stand, How to Make a Hall Steam Pipes, Covering for Step-ladder, How to Make a Still, How to Make a Photographic
Stools,
...
Tennis Racquet, How to Re-string a Telescope, Dialyte ... Three Small Articles.
270
609
Wind-power How to Drive a Lathe and Circular Saw by. See Lathe,
Soap-box or Tray Stand for Vase or Water-jug Small Plush Bracket ... 376
is
...
The
...
345
54 332
42
41
...
Tools,
...
How
to
Make them
bined Towel-horse, A Useful Transfer Engravings on Glass, To Transparent Paper, To Make Tray Shelf, A Folding Treatment of Old-fashioned Halt Turn a Cube on the Lathe, How to
..
Preparing the Tools Pad or Sand Bag Eye Glass and Stand Ink Dabber Drawing on Wood 91 III. Transferring Designs to the Wood Wood Photographing on 125
II.
IV.
222
327
V.
How How
to
to
Engrave
188
220
...
Wood Working
Woodwork, A Few Ideas Woodworkers, Wrinkles
Wrinkle for Banjo Makers, A Wrinkle for Cyclists, A ... Wrinkles for Amateur Wood Engravers Wrinkles for Bookbinders Wrinkles for Woodworkers Writing Desk, A Davenport Writing Ink, To Make a Waterproof... Writing Table, A
30
...126
...
Bamboo Work
Student Decorators, Hints for Studio, An Amateur's Photographic Sussex Flower-pot Cover, How to Make a Swinging Hammock Chair, A. I. Introduction The Wood Required
Turned Work, A Watchstand in Turners, A Watchstand for ... Turning Metal. See Metal Turning.
33 1
98 19
500
To Remove
424 432
262
463
199
54 241
Details of Construction...
its
II.
Construction
...
...
98
19
Facing Page
;>
49
105 157
>j
House by Photography
ij
A Model
Cutter
in
209
Finger-Plates or Panels
Fretwork or
Inlay
261
Two
Fancy Tables
a
)>
313
Practical
365
Cut Leather
...
>
417
Carved
Wood
tt
469
521 573
Portable Whole-Plate
Camera
j >
5)
INDEX TO "AMATEURS
Accumulators, Dynamo for Charging, 520 Acme Drill Chuck, 571 AdaptiDg Parts of Lathe for Overhead Motion, 572 Altering Clocks, 208 American Clock, Re Query, 259 Amateur Appliances, 312 Amateur Dramatic Authorship, 363
.
IN COUNCIL'
"Amateur
Work,
Illustrated,"
Old
467
" Amateur Work." Binding, 50 "Amateur Work," Index to, 104 Amateur Work in the Colonies, 615 Amateur Work, Suggestions for, 206
Camera, Photographic, 206, 519 Cameras, Demon, 207 Canoe, Light, 104 Castings, 362 Castings for Hand Planing Machine, 104 Castings for Microscope, 51, 155 Castings for Simple Milling Attachment for Lathe, 153 Cell, Bichromate v. Bunsen, 101 Celluloid, Composition of, T04, 208 Cement, Bicycle, 156 Chemical, Hygroscopic, 260
for Circular Saw and Milling Cutter, t53 Circular Saw and Milling Cutter, Chuck
Electricity,
Electric Bell Indicators, 208 Electric Bell, Switch for, 104 Books on, 154
Copper, 259
Exercises in
Woodworking, 571
Work,
49
Chuck
Few
Ideas
in
Woodwork, 259
"Amateur Work,"
Vol.
II.,
New
Series,
for,
rS3
363 Amateurs' Testimony, 154 Amateurs' Work, 519, 571 Amateurs' Work and Iron Planes, 571 American Clock, 208, 259 American White Wood, 416, 519 Aphengescope, 520 Appliances, Amateur, 312 Article on Soldering, 416 Authorship, Amateur Dramatic, 363
Battery Coil, Defective, 208 Battery, Secondary, 361 Battery Wanted, 155, 206 Bellows, Camera, 52 Best and Fastest Shutter for both % and Instantaneous Work, 49 Bichromate v. Bunsen Cell, roi
Bicycle,
Clay Modelling, 468 Clock, American, 208 Clock for Reflecting Telescope, 616 Clocks, Altering, 208 Cloth, Spots on, 520 Club for Bookbinders, 415 Coil, 310 Coil, Defective Battery, 208
Coil,
Fitting Hatch to Model Yacht, 103 Flageolet, Crack in, 52 Flatting for Glass Jars, 616
Wire
for,
ior
Fluor-Spar, 312, 364 Folding-Chair, Compact, 51 Fountain, 520 Fountain, Self-acting, 364 French Polishing, 51 Fretwork Designs, Copying, 207, 416
Time
20
Binding*" Amateur Work," 50 Blackboard, 310 Blue Printing Process, 103 Boat-building with Planking, Model, 153 Boat, Brass Fittings for, 364 Bookbinding, 52, 616 Bookbinders, Club for, 415 Bookcase and Screen, 363 Bookcases, Reviving, 519 Books on Electricity, 154 Box Corner Fittings, 519 Brass Fittings for Boat. 364, 415 Brass Angle Fittings for Box Corners,
Amateur Work," 259 Colouring Walls of Dining Rooms, r56 Compact Folding Chair, 5r Composition of Celluloid, ro4, 208 Contributors, A Hint to, 154 Coop, Hen, 416 Copper, Etching on, 259 Copper Facing Carbon, 571 Copying Fretwork Designs, 207 Costume Making, Theatrical, 363 Crack in Flageolet, 52 Cricket Materials, Alending, 52 Criticism An Offer to the Readers of
Galvanised Work, Soldering, 260 Gear, Reversing, 414 Gilding, 50 Gilding Ivory, 4r6 Granite, Marble, etc., Imitations of, 468 Greenhouse, 416 Greenhouse, Building a, 104 Gauge, A Tinsmith's, 361
Blocking, 468
Hand and
572
Foot Threshing
Machines,
"Amateur Work,"
roi
Demon Cameras, 207 Designs, Fretwork, 416 Diagrams, Calico, '52, rs4
Difficulties,
Photographic, T51
D Brass Instruments, Repairing, 207 Brass Rods, 312 Brown Paper, Hand-made, 468 Brief Replies, 52 Building a Greenhouse, 104 Bursoolah, 416
Calico Diagrams, 52, 154 Camera, An Easily Made, 364 Camera Bellows, 52
519
Dramatic Authorship, Amateur, 363 Dressing Table and Washstand, 102 Dulcimer Fittings, 104 Dynamo for Charging Accumulators, 520
of, 415 Grenades, Fire, 3t2, 468 Hand-made Brown Paper, 468 Hand-planing Machines, Castings for, 104 Handy Substitute for Lathe Planer, 52 Harmonium, Adding Pedals to, 52 Hat and Umbrella Stand, 468 Hatch to Model Yacht, 103 Hen Coop, 416 Hint to Contributors, t54 How to make a Music Stool, 151 How to make a Phonograph, 208 Horns, Preparation of, 467 Hydraulic Motor, 207 Hygroscopic Chemical, 260
Hand
Ice Machines, r55 Imitations of Granite, Marble, etc., 468 Incubator, 416
Camera,
etc.,
312
Ebony Walking Sticks, 51 Electrical Matters, 414, 416, 468 Electric Bell, 616
INDEX TO
Indicators, Electric Bell, 208
"
AMATEURS IN
COUNCIL:'
Silvering Mirrors, 467
Inductorium, 151 Information Sought, 364 Ink, Cyclostyle, 50, 153 Instantaneous Work, Best Shutter 49 Iron, Soldering, 104 Ivory, Gilding, 416
for,
Lads, Technical Instruction for, 414 Lantern, Magic, 520 Lathe, Slow Speed for, 362 Leads, Machine for Shaping, 208 Leaded Glass Windows and Aviaries, 260
Leaded Letters
in Stone, 153
Lightning Paper, 156 Light Canoe to Carry One Person, 104 Lithographic Press, 154
Machine for Shaping and Guttering Leads for Stained-glass Windows, 208 Magic Lantern, 152, 520 Magic Lantern, Projecting Microscopic
Slides with, 152
Magic Pocket Lamp, 310 Magnet to hold up 100 lbs., 519 Make your own Magic Lantern, 154
r
Pedals to Harmonium, 52 Pentagraph, 363 Photographic Camera, 206, 519 Photographic Difficulties, 151, 208 Photographic Matters, 468 Photographic Papers, Sensitizing, 468 Phonograph, 208 Piano, Rehabilitation of, 362 Pictures, Varnish for, 153 Pictures, Zoetrope, 363 Pin Puzzle Box, 50, 155, 361 Plested's Patent Plane Iron, Chisel, and Tool Sharpening Machine, 51 Pocket Lamp, a Magic, 310 Polishing, French, 51 Polish, Wax, 363 Portmanteau Stand, 311 Preparation of Horns, etc., 467 Preserving Snakes in Spirit, 520 Press, Lithographic, 154 Preventing Rust on Tools, 153 Printing and Rubber Stamp Making, 206 Printing Process, Blue, 103 Promised Subjects, 571 Prize Competition, 312 Pulp, Paper, 520 Puzzle Box, Pin, 30, 155, 361
.
Simple Ornamental Turning, 571, 6r5 Simplex Glazing, 4t6 Single Needle Telegraph, 260
Slide Rest, 572 Sliding Door for Bookcase, 616 Slow Speed for Lathe, 362
Small Medical Coil, 519 Snakes in Spirit, Preserving, 520 Soldering, Article on, 416 Soldering Galvanized Work, 260 Soldering Iron, ro4 Some Indian Tools, 48 Specula Grinding, 312 Spots on Cloth, 520. 616
,
Staining Wood to Match a Pattern, 136 Stained Glass Windows, Machine for
Stand,
Shaping Leads for, 208 A Portmanteau, 3d Statuette, Making Parian, 520 Steam Yacht, Model, 207
-
Bell,
104
Marble, Imitations
Medical
Coil, Small,
519
Mending Cricket
Materials, 52
Microscope, Castings
for, 51, 155 Milling Attachment for Lathe, Castings for, 153 Mirrors, Silvering, 416 Mitre Cutter, 152 Model Boat Building with Planking, 153 Model Cutter, 468 Motor, Hydraulic, 207 Model Locomotive Building, 571 Model Stationary Engine, 572 Model Steam Yacht, 207, 260 Model Yacht, Fitting Hatch to, 103 Modelling in Clay, 46S
Razor, Safety, 520 Razor Stone, 468 Reflecting Telescope, 468 Rehabilitation of Piano, 362 Removing Varnish from Negatives, 520 Repairing Brass Instruments, 207 Replies devoid of General Interest, 156, 208, 260, 3t2, 468 Reply Bookcase and Screen, 363 Resin Distributor, 3ti Reversing Gear, 414 Revolving Bookcases, 519 Rhomkorff Coil, 156 Rivetting, 155 Rods, Brass, 3r2
Table, Telescopic, 206 Technical Instruction for Lads, 414 Technical Series of Handbooks, 416 Telegraph, Single Needle, 260
Transparent
Squares
for
Drawing
'
Purposes, 572
Type
for
Music
Stool,
How
to
Make, 151
Rubber Stamp Making, 206 Rubber Stamps, Type for, 416 Rubber Stamps, 311 Rust on Tools, Preventing, 153
Safety Safety Safety Safety
Bicycle, 415 Bicycle Fittings, 616
Upholstering, 364
Utilizing
Vacuum
Nom
de Plume, 616
in Vessel, 519 Varnish for Pictures, 153 Varnish for Violoncello, 6t6 Violin Making, 208, 4r5 Vulcanite, 416, 5tg
Walking
Sticks,
Ebony, 51
Walls of Dining Room, Colouriirg, 156 Wax Polish, 363 ^^ White Wood, American, 416 Wind Power to Workshop, 312
Odour
Wire
Wood
Engraving, 156
Tiles, 153.
Paper, Lightning, 156 Painting Shop Front, 414 Paper Screens, 616 Paper Pulp, 520 Parian Statuette Making, 520
Shocking
Coil,
616
Work,
Zoetrope Pictures, 363
AN
By ELECTRON.
ELECTRICAL BALANCE.
wire,
AN ELECTRICAL BALANCE.
sK ;=|N
J
electrical
balance
is
used to detect
sk
[gj
any body
very with
interesting
it
experiments
and turning or filing the outside to a shown in Fig. 2), or it may be made from a piece of glass tube 1 inch diameter. Heat the tube in the flame of a spirit-lamp, and keep turning it round when hot, pull asunder the ends of the tube, and it will draw apart in a conical shape heat the thin end till the hole is.
conical shape (as
;
centre, balanced
insulated stajid
file, nick the tube round at the proper length, and cut it off. The centres can be fixed in the straw by a drop
closed,
of sealing-wax.
in the
FIG. I.
Electrical Balance.
it
is attracted,
and
to the
repelled.
Make
a circular
F 0.3. Wood
l
stand of wood, about 2\ inches diameter, and \ inch thick this may be cut by a chisel, and the edges filed smooth, or it may be turned,
;
ball
on stand.
\ inch diameter, and \\ inches long; melt the end of the wax, and fix it perfectly upright; then take a needle in a pair of pincers, and heat the eye end red hot, and stick it in the top end of the wax, being careful to have it vertical. Then get a piece of dry wheat straw, about 10 inches long, and make a notch in the centre, and fix in it a brass or glass centre or pivot. A brass pivot may be made by drilling a conical
hole in the end of a piece of 3-1 6th inch brass
Vol.
swing round at shows balancecomplete. Rub a dry glass tube with silk, and present it to one end, which will be attracted, and the opposite end will be repelled. A stick of sealing-wax rubbed with flannel will show the same phenomenon. Make a ball 1 \ inches diameter, of dry wood, and cover it with tinfoil, bore a hole in it, and fix it on an insulated stand (as shown in Fig. 3), and make in a similar manner to the one deneedle point,
it
when
ought
to
1
the
slightest
touch.
Fig.
scribed.
When
the ball
;
is
it
and on presenting
B
to
25.
PRACTICAL ORGAN BUILDING.
repelled;
is attracted, and the other showing that merely striking the ball has slightly charged it with electricity, which is indicated by the balance. The whole of the apparatus must be perfectly dry, and free from dust, to make the experiments
demands a very considerable amount of time and work but not more so than hundreds of
;
articles that
amateurs undertake
to construct in
But the pride and beauty a well-finished organ, properly designed and
its
successfully.
nothing of
its intrinsic
many
of the
whom
am
AN ORGAN
see
BUILDER.
this part.)
Simplicity
Construction Advantages of Organ Building as a hobby The Tools' RequiredSpecification and General Description of the Instrument.
of
.
I cannot imagine any item of work which will ultimately yield so much profitable enjoyment on its completion.
Indeed,
construc-
we must
first
of an organ, an amateur might feel disposed to consider that to undertake the construction of such an elaborate and apparently complex work would be a matter far beyond his power. However attractive might be the idea of building so noble and delightful an instrument, the prospect of mastering details, and ultimately obtaining any result commensurate with the care involved, would appear so small that very few indeed, I think, would be disposed, on their own initiative, to entertain the
At the
too^
like the
tools
Common
tools
best
workman.
;
brothers
their
nearest
relations.
require a good joiner's bench, submade, planed quite true on the top, and with the necessary appurtenances of screw, The bench should not be less than 6 stop, etc. or 7 feet long indeed, if it could be 8, or even
First,
we
stantially
piece,
however,
different
9,
feet in length,
is
and
in
would be better. will be most wanted saw, a panel saw, tenon, dovetail, and keyit
:
up
hole saws.
The first
is
for ripping
down
boards,
no insuperable, or even serious difficulty to anyone fairly acquainted with the use of tools, and endowed with the gift of patience and the power of taking pains. ThTe is no special trade to learn, and no special outiit of tools required, beyond what would
an instrument, there
ordinarily be included in the assortment of any-
the second for fine-sawing and cross-cutting wide boards, and the three last are used in hosts of
different details.
For planes
first
taking
off
;
the
boards
making
;
joints
and
one who undertakes what might be designated the higher branches of amateur joinery or
carpentry.
a smoothing plane, to take off the last clean shavings a 1 inch rebate plane, for planing across the wood a toothing
finishing off the
;
wood
plane, to
to
make
The main
skill
required
is
to
be
make
a good
of
and to be able to carry out all details working and measurements with extreme
it
accuracy.
Of course
be more firmly held together with glue only, so that the glue may have more hold to the disturbed surface than the smooth places and a pair of No. 6 and 14, hollow and round. The hammer, mallet, and pincers, used in almost every trade, cannot be dispensed with. A good brace,
;
may
be,
bit,
PRACTICAL ORGAN BUILDING.
and as many
less
these considerations
is
but as
many more
The organ
is
to contain
C C
and
and upwards. An expansion bit would be found fairly useful, but if a good set of centre-bits are obtained, they are more satisThese bits would factory than the shifting-bit. be required mainly in fitting in the pipes. Xext, some chisels. These should vary from inch to \\ inches. The handiest will be found -J to be the \, \, f \, f 1 inch, and a \\ inch thin paring chisel. We shall also want two mortise chisels. The sizes for these should be T5B and
to
1A, ,
pedals.
salcional,
The
\ inch.
and f inch gouge will be very useful. cutting, and mortise gauge will be required, also two joiner's iron squares, with 4| or 6-inch blade, and one with a 12-inch blade. We shall also want a large wood square, with a
\,
A \,
A marking,
we shall have a good and when finished it will be very suitable for hall or drawing-room while in a small church it would be very effective. An organist would be charmed with it as a practising organ an amateur player would find in it endless solace and enjoyment while for leading the music in public worship, it would be found a hundred times preferable to the monotonous harmonium. Looking at the stops in detail, we have, in the first place, the dignified round lone of the open
In
this
instrument
selection of stops,
The
fur himself
at
or
if
not,
accompaniments.
its
a very
little cost.)
and a pair of round-nosed pliers, for the wire Three or four different sizes of bradawls and gimlets, a couple of screwdrivers, and a bevel, a 10-inch wood file, and an iron file of similar length also a small flat file, and a threework.
;
mellow tone, may be freely used by itself, and makes a pleasing combination with any of the other stops and the gemshorn, with
with
;
its
cornered
file
will
be required.
shall
Enclosing the last three stops in a swell box does not in any appreciable degree detract from
the quality of the pipes, or reduce the distinctive
quality of each stop, as
in
want a glue-pot the two or three brushes are indispensable. Half-a-dozen hand-screws will be very useful, and a joiner's cramp, about 6 feet long, would be an acquisition, but is not absolutely necessary. An oilstone and one or two sharpening slips, and a soldering-iron will be required. This completes the list of tools which may be
larger the better
Of course, we
and
is
opened
at
the
front
(which
be
done
the
way
that will be
to the
afterwards described)
amounts almost
however, the
same thing
as
the
is
pipes being
shut,
unenclosed.
When
more
the box
effective
most
still
We
may
enumerated, though useful in some special way, with a little pains may be dispensed with.
of the
Thus equipped, we are in a position to think commencement of our work, and have to
The open diapason may be made either of wood or metal, whichever the amateur may prefer, and will extend from gamut G (lowest Qt
on the keyboard) to A 51 notes in open pipes; and for the C to F F sharp we shall have seven stopped pipes of large scale. These lowest notes may have the wind conveyed to the pipes form;
consider the type of organ most suitable for the capacity of an ordinary worker, and. at the same
time,
yield a
how we can lay down a design which will maximum return for the labour bestowed
The
specification
the
stopped
diapason,
thus
set of
on
it.
which
is
best suited to
stops to
is
instrument, and
we
conclude that
it
shall contain
C C
to A, in alt. 58 notes.
robbing and other evils. The stopped diapason will be carried right through from C C to A, in stopped wood pipes.
Pedals, compass
C C C to
:
The
(lowest
salcional will
same as the conveying of the wind in the seven lowest open diapason notes
This grooving
the
just mentioned.
of metal
to
from
From C C
B we
shall use
of metal, will
Four stops, viz. Open diapason, metal from gamut Gr to A in alt. with the lowest notes in stopped wood pipes salcional, tenor C to A in alt. in metal, and the lowest notes to be used from the stopped diapason stopped diapason, from C to A in alt. throughout in stopped wood pipes gemshorn, C C to B in open wood pipes, and from tenor C to A in alt. in metal pipes. The case front to be as shown in Figs. 1 or 2, Fig. 3 represents a front of a more ornamental,
; ; ;
type; but
if
this is to
be used,
it
will necessitate
would
an organ and I should not advise any amateur to try and make his own metal pipes. This stop might be made of wood pipes. I leave it with
;
than the tune length of the note. This front may be made for the organ to be erected in a church, where ample height and space are at
disposal.
The heights
inches,
1
1
be 12
feet
8>
if
circumstances will
and 12
3,
feet, respectively.
The width
7
urge the insertion of the same, for although the wood pipes, as an open diapason, give a full, round tone, there is not that clear, bright quality which a metal pipe alone can produce. Figs. 1 and 2 represent the organ front as it will appear when completed. Fig. 1 shows the front with the open diapason made of metal, and Fig. 2 The latter will is the front with wood pipes. look very well if it can be arranged for the pipe fronts to be made of oak or mahogany, and varnished or polished. The bright metal pipes, however, would be by far the more attractive
feet 9 inches,
and Fig.
The depth
be 4 feet 2
inches-
is
provided for
the
different parts
of
the*
mechanism and
will
be when completed.
The height
is
will, no-
many
room
-
built for a
and imposing
in
appearance, as well as
but I will give directions as to how the front may be lowered considerably. Everything has
in tone.
just referred to
show two
been kept up high, so as to give the front elevaFig. 3 must tion a more imposing appearance. remain as it is. The width and depth cannot be conveniently reduced.
in this
way
as
a front dispenses with the necessity of ornamental pipes. The ends of the case, if they are to show, will simply consist of two panels, one above the other, with a small moulding between
them, to break the straight
line.
a second manual, independent pedal organ, and composition pedals may be added, so that almost any sized two-
how
A fair general
to
idea will have been formed as what would be the most suitable lines for our
manual instrument may be constructed on this principle. The making of metal pipes shall also be described. Taking the organ with one manual, as we
engraved standing in
is
relief
It
away
where the design is, and is printed from by filling the parts engraved with ink, and subjecting it to a heavy pressure, to sink the paper in enough to take the ink up. A wood-cut is exactly like printer's type, and is printed from in the same way. The Wood used. Boxwood is the wood prin-
It is of the closest
its
light colour,
AN AMATEUR ENGRAVER.
is
makes
it
Maple
;
is
Wood Engraving
The
Wood used
The Tools.
PROPOSE
readers of
the
used sometimes, but its grain is coarser and after working on boxwood, cutting maple is very disagreeable work, be your tools ever so sharp. For large jobs, where no fine work is needed, it
does very well
is
;
the only
wood
but for fine, clear cut lines, box that answers the purpose. For
the tools used, and the methods of using them but the minute details of the art I shall not deal very fully with. This magazine is " written by
amateurs entirely for amateurs," according to the prospectus, and, bearing this in mind, I
shall, as
to present the
subject in such a
way
as will be interesting to
amateurs only.
I shall not attempt to give elaborate lessons in the art, but shall describe the tools and processes which I consider most
useful to the amateur.
-one,
poster work, niakoganj^, holly, pear, dogwood, and pine are used but for any work that the amateur may tr}-, box will be the only wood he will have any use for. Engravers' boxwood is imported largely from Turkey, and comes in small logs, a foot or less in diameter. These logs are sawed in blocks or "rounds," as the block-maker calls them, across the grain, and about an inch thick. These rounds are full coarse
;
of cracks
difficult
and
flaws,
and formerly
it
was a very
The
art is a fascinating
matter to secure a perfect one large enough for large pictures. But the ingenuity
of later days got
and inexpensive. the principal requisite, and whoever attempts to follow the instructions given, must
tools are simple
and the
is
around
this difficulty,
by saw-
Patience
and
qualities,
In the past four or five years I have engraved several hundred cuts, which have all been used in the columns of a newspaper, so the work must have been fairly well done. The " knack " of doing the work was picked up entirely from
hints given by various engravers, and from experience that was dearly bought, in some cases. These hints, and the results of my experiences, I now give to the readers of Amateur Woek
;
about the same quality of wood. To give additional strength, tongues are inserted
and
all of
(as in Fig.
1).
shape of circular wooden rods, instead of flat tongues, as shown in the figure. In large establishments, where large-sized pictures are needed in a hurry, several blocks are fitted with bolts and nuts, so that after the picture is placed on
it may be taken apart, and the pieces put into the hands of several engravers, who thus are enabled to get the job done much quicker than if one was obliged to do the whole. When the parts are all finished, they are bolted together again and so nicely do the boxwood-
the block,
and
if
closely followed,
an ability
to
do a good
job of engraving will be acquired. What Wood Engraving is. "Wood engraving is the cutting away of every part of the block that is not drawn upon, and leaving the figure to be
tell
draw
on.
where the
Boxwood is of a yellow colour, streaked with reddish and sometimes black streaks. That of
sometimes crumble away when the tool touches them, as they are nothing but rotten pith. The
i
blocks, as they
dealer, however,.
ri C.I.
together
Fl C.
2 Square Graver
.
F C 3 Lozenge Grayer.
I
.
FIC.5. Chisel.
FIG. 6.
Tint tool
FIC.
F c
l
7.
Tint tools
is
it
graver will
cutting
it is
glide
through
is
that
a pleasure.
harder to
cut,
and
The darker red wood is more brittle. The black well, but are not so good to
are generally what they are sold for, and the amateur need give no particular attention to his wood, other than to tell the dealer what he wants, and pay his price. The pithy places are generally bored out, and plugged with good.
wood
so there is
experience will
tell
Introduction
The
of
Construction.
pieces that have been sawed off blocks he has been fitting for someone else. For a small sum he can get all the wood he can use in six months.
By
the time he has used it up, he will be very well capable of selecting large blocks, as he will
be likely
odds and ends of all kinds and qualities of woods. The Tools. The tools used for engraving are
to get
most closely
fact,
to the
we "feel
of
us,
in
few and inexpensive. They consist of gravers, and chisels. Half-a-dozen gravers, a dozen tint tools, and two or three chisels and scoopers each, make a complete outfit, and half that number are sufficient for ordinary work. They can be purchased of any
domain of philosophy.
Some
(in
who, on a
bed-clothes,
bitter winter's
morning, have
the attraction
a quasi
of
literal sense) of
the
and have
the voice
allowed
The
sizes.
Or,
per-
number
to start
haps it has been the heat of the summer sun, and the drowsy drone of the busy bee (of
that substantial dinner had nothiug do with it), whose soporific influences we have had to shake off, feeling more or less like
and two each of gravers, scoopers, and chisels. Do not be in a hurry to buy too many at once, as you will find that after a while you will be doing all the work with a very few and as time progresses, the styles and sizes best adapted to your work will become apparent to you. Fig. 2 shows the square graver, full size, and Fig. 3 the lozenge graver. The latter style is not so useful as the square, however, and need not be bought at first. Fig. 4 shows the scooper, and Fig. 5 the chisels. Fig. 6 shows the full-sized tint tool, and Fig. 7 the relative sizes of a set. These
;
course
to
heroes as
Well,
appears
we faced the work and worry of life. we were mistaken, all of us, and it
it
would have been more virtuous on more conducive to the higher interests of the race if we had turned a deaf ear to the importunate voice which bade us be up and doing, and turned over for aaother
our part
snooze.
Anyhow,
is
has
shown
at
much
of activity
and
toil,
These handles are made of hard wood, and are flat on one side. The various sizes and shapes of tools should be numbered, so that there will be no delay in
picking them up.
gospel which
If,
we need
is
then,
by the
A Photographer's
percha, and a
not use zinc.
little
part gutta
manufacture and use of our hammock chair, the reader can beat off the enemy by firing philosophical dicta at him but he need follow the philosophy of Rest no further, unless he pleases. Who first invented the hammock chair on the principle herein described, deponent knoweth not; but (to drop the third person sing.) my
;
discovery of
it
was on
this wise
In one of my visits to the Paris Exhibition, I happened to enter it from the Trocadero end, and was struck by the exceedingly comfortable (and lazy) aspect of an individual rocking himself in
and
(2),
that I
described
entirely
my own
conception.
It
To
had better
will
came
clumsy.
Ash
do as well as any,
came
across
means, mechanical
(likewise
and
financial,
and
protected),
ceived
and from
re-
act accordingly.
business-like look-
ing young
woman
2.
prospectus No.
How
they
re-
claims I have no
As
to the
the
wood
1
busy
the
to
undertake manufacture
I
rough be
it
inch thick,
will
answer
poses.
all
all
pur-
add
(by
of
They should
slightly
the
courtesy
be
the
Editor
and
of
chamfered
or
Proprietors
addresses
both
1st.
manu-
facturers.
"LeHamacIfaertens,"
OF CHAIR. SCALE T IN. EQUAL I FOOT. A, BACK B, SEAT C, ARMS D, SUPPORT OF ARMS E, CONNECTION OK SUPPORTS AND LEGS; F, LEGS; G, FOOT-PIECES; H, FOOT-REST; I, CROSS-PIECES TO CARRV CANVAS J, FRONT OF SEAT K, CHAIN TO REGULATE INCLINATION OF BACK L, EYES TO WHICH CHAINS MUST BE FIXED N, SKETCH SHOWING HOW TO M, ALTERNATIVE SHAPE FOR ARM FASTEN CANVAS TO CROSS-PIECES.
I.
; ;
\ ;
SKETCH
for
the
rivets
\w
This
chair
sold
arm,
;
where
the
office
Francais"
depot
35frs.
13,
Eue Mandar.
gratuitous
The following dimensions may perhaps be considered excessive. The chair is made to my size, and my inches are rather above the average and
;
my breadth
is
not
I trust this
compensate the makers for any loss they might otherwise be supposed to suffer, and merely add, in my own defence (1), that there is no sort of
indication that the protection extends
to
otherwise with the chair; for I like an easy chair i.e., one that The reader had it is possible to turn round in. better examine the given dimensions carefully,
my
height,
it is
the
and
alter
them according
to size or taste.
:-
The
LETTEIt
IX
canvas at the
HEEDED
Ft.
in.
SKETCH
Back
Seat
bottom (likewise 2 inches wide), might also he mortised, in which case it must be \ inch less in length but it might come in the way of the rivet which holds the foot-pieces, and hence it had better be screwed on at the back, the length
;
Arms
Support of arms... Connection of arms Legs
Foot-pieces
Foot-rest cross-piece
with
outside of the
Top
...
is
important
sake
comfort
the foot-rest
The back,
notably,
may
less;
well be somewhat
but I object to having the cross-piece just catch the back of my head, and the size
indicated allows of the
head resting on the canvas below it. Again, the legs must be carefully looked to, as
it is
important
length
that
their
should
be so
adjusted as to allow of
on the foot-rest. The letters in the sketch and in the list of materials will do away with any doubt as to
the
parts
1
described
will give
and Fig.
sufficient
a
FIG.
idea of their
2.SKETCH OF CHAIR ON SWING, ONE-SIXTEENTH FULL SIZE. A, CHAINS FOR FIXING CHAIR B, CHAINS FOR REGULATING INCLINATION OF BACK C, CHAINS FOR SUPPORTING CHAIR D, IRON ROD TO CARRY CHAINS AND KEEP THE FRAME TOGETHER E, IRON kODS TO PREVENT THE FRAMES FROM SLIPPING APART.
;
; ;
better
be rivetted together, though at a pinch, 1 * inch -wood screws, or nuts and bolts might be made to answer the purpose.
In the dimensions given for the top cross'to which the seat is attached, and which must be 2 inches wide), \ inch is allowed for each tenon. This is also the case with the round piece in front of the seat, which must be \\ inches
in diameter.
should remain at right angles to the legs but the foot-pieces being rivetted like the rest
;
of the chair, a screw, or wooden peg, must be driven into these pieces just forward of the leg (c, Fig. 1), to prevent their falling outward.
the
foot-pieces,
These,
it is
almost needless to
saj',
indicated.
It
will
must be
probably be found
convenient
to
10
Prepare
all
the
to
powerful fret or
scroll
may
give
and legs
some
little
all,
the arms
piece in front
leave the chair well within the powers of the most elementary knowledge and the simplest
tools.
We
chair
complete
but as
posed, the
Stair
maker must
will
suit his
means
or fancy.
carpet
has the advantage of variety in the matter of pattern. On the other hand, canvas harbours dust less, and has the further advantage of being cooler.
Jones said of his friend whose portrait he was contemplating, it "wants hanging." The^deal and idyllic method would be doubtless to fasten it to the low-hanging bough of some giant of the forest, or some lesser grandee in
the park of some one of the " stately
homes of
England."
chairs have a kind of striped
if
The American
canvas, which,
But, alas
trees
us;
the
"semi-
frame on the floor, face downward, measure extreme length, and add 6 inches for turning
detached," Mr. Jerry, having omitted that item from his " desirable residences."
Should any of
my
at the ends, to
the
material from
tearing away, or
more
may be turned under, and the nails driven through the double thickness. Nail the canvas on the under edge of the back cross-piece, and bring it over the back and down
the front of the cross-piece in question.
n, will give
But
favoured
chiefly,
(Fig.
1,
proposed will permit of the chair being put up anywhere, thus adding materially to the comfort of a visit to the country or the seaside.
(To be continued.)
an idea
of
what I mean.)
This
on canvas and
which
Then passing the canvas under the chair is supposed to be face downward on the
it
floor stretch
taut
may be produced by
:
printiDg on
it
under the bottom cross-piece, and fasten the upper edge as before.
on
the
The other
parts,
i.e.,
and ammonia
.
connecting pieces,
may now be
may
first
also the
having
less the
..
.
..
The chair
chains, of
It will
now resemble
Fig.
1,
Mix equal
mixed
which more presently. add both to the appearance and comfort of the chair if, instead of the straight arms shown attached to the chair, arms curved, as at m, be These should be of 1J or even substituted. 2-inch wood, and being cut as near as possible with the saw, must be finished off with rasp and file. Unless, however, the amateur has access to a
paper as on the silver bath, film down, for half a minute or room so, and suspend by one corner in a dark equal almost Detail can be brought out to dry.
solution will not keep,
and
float the
to silver prints, while the ease of working the cheapness make it quite desirable.
and The
not
prints can be
Do
make up
fresh
when wanted. J.
M.
QIIUCKS FOR
"MY LATHE:
II
This could best be done, if the working lathe is screw-cutting, by putting on the appropriate
L.
DWYER,
B.A.
it
-The Driving Chcck The Face-plate and its Attachments The Drill Chuck The Bell Chcck The Mandrel Wooden Chucks The
Pipemaker's Chuck.
but I find it is nearly as good to cut it with a tap, advancing it carefully with the
now and
Jjppl^l
t
LATHE
-without
it is
=p
l$j
useless; so
IjggLlg have given some description of these indispensable adjuncts, even if our indulgent
Editor, ever mindful of the requirements of his
readers,
to do so.
I will
Having screwed it, the driving chuck should be run on the nose of its own lathe, and turned all over, and the boss turned to the proper length and diameter. This turning of the boss could well have been
was screwed better, indeed, than and if there were any blow holes, they could be detected before a good deal of work had been expended on the casting. A few holes, drilled and tapped for driving pins, will complete this chuck. The driving pins will vary from | inch to f inch in lathes from 3-inch to
done before
it
;
common
order of
afterwards
an admirable series of articles, written by Rev. James Lukin, which appeared a few years ago in the first series of this magazine. At the same time, it would not do to pass them over in
silence, as I
know
there are
many new
readers
and subscribers who would be unable to refer to the early pages, and might, therefore, be at
a loss to know how a driving chuck or faceplate is manufactured.
8-inch centres.
not screwed at
all,
siipplied with
new
lathes
Sometimes, again, a rib nips them in the hole. radiating from the centre strengthens the part
chuck.
shown
in Figs.
and
2.
not advisable.
make
its
The Face-plate
only
is
is
shown
to
at Eig. 3.
When
one
used,
it
ought
i.e.,
from one-ninth
lathe centres.
centre
would be 3 inches diameter and ^ inch thick. In a larger lathe it may be somewhat smaller and thinner in proportion. Thus, for my 6-Lnch centre lathe the driving chuck is 5 inches diameter and inch thick. If the pattern is made at home, the boss should be much larger and longer than the finished size of chuck, something like that shown by the dotted lines, as I find that the castings are often spongy
lathe the plate
just at that place.
more than have a couple. For a 6-inch gap lathe, one 8 inches diameter, and one from 14 inches to 18 inches would be suitable the thickness of web would vary from
5-inch centre,
it
would be well
| inch to f inch, according to the size of lathe. In very large face-plates it is better to put
The arrangement
of slots
(shown
it
should be clamped
working lathe, and the hole bored out by holding a drill against it, which is advanced by the poppet screw. The
centrally to the face-plate of the
but in larger ones they would be far more numerous. If a bolt is required, however, in a part where there is not a slot, holes can easily
be
hole
by the drill ought to be trued out an inside tool, held preferably in the slide-rest, and it will be ready for screwing.
left
perfectly with
and after some time they will get so numerous that few new ones will be wanted. Slots may, indeed, be avoided altogether in small face-plates and where one has to be turned with hand tools, it would be well to get
drilled,
;
12
the plate cast plain, and bore the holes after it has been turned. All the slots should be of a uniform width, varying from \ inch to f inch, according to size of plate. In connection with
the face-plate should always be found some other
attachments,
viz.
work bed
is
screw
soft.
also
made
of
square cast
is
left
It is inch diameter,
One end
steel
square to
its
fit
a
is
little
button, with
like
face
Clamping -plates.
sufficient
;
Of these, four or
five will
be
a vice-jaw,
It is really
or drilled in one, two, or three places. Figs. 7 and 8 show some suited for 4-inch to 6-inch centre lathe. Fig. 6 shows clamping-plates used
to affix a small face-plate to a large
of the
the former
is
being bored.
It will
same
also
the tightening of the bolt will hold the work very firmly four would be used for such a job. It will be seen that the back ends of the
;
how
these
dogs
may be
used.
is laid
centrally on the
Of
these
would be well
to
have a good
stock,
iron, ranging from inch to Thinner ones had best be cut from flat iron, but an inch long is quite enough for any likely to be required by the amateur. When they are longer they look ugly, knock the knuckles, and are perpetually in the way. All the attachments for the face-plates should be kept neatly stowed away in a shallow drawer,
inch square.
dogs are slipped into the nearest holes, bolted down, and the transverse screws tightened up until the work is quite firm. Again, if the hole for crank in an eccentric is' required to be bored, it is evident that it can be
face-plate, the
now
pass on to
is
shown
in Fig. 4,
and
it
seen in Fig.
5.
I usually
make
cast iron.
The tapping
requires
plug.
so that I
no
difficulty will
be experienced in
three taps
taper,
it
finding, at a
moment's
notice,
what
is
required.
is
may
ment
very recently, was my own invention, viz. Bog Jaws. These are shown in Figs. 9 and
\ inch diameter, for small lathes, and the steel The set screw should be from J inch to inch.
and make a face-plate almost as useful as the expensive four-jaw chuck. The sizes illustrated will suit any lathe from 4-inch to 6-inch centre, and can be made with little trouble. I usually turn them from square cast steel, which I leave soft. To make four, as shown, take a
10,
head should project as little as possible, else it might catch the hand of the operator and that it would give an ugly knock, I can personally
;
testify.
is
may be
centre
piece of steel 1J inches square, 11 inches long; it, and turn down the parts required for
used
but
it
to use steel
the shanks
| inch thick for a \ inch drill. It is well, then, to have plugs which fit the chuck tightly, and
are drilled with smaller holes.
The
be
of
I have plugs from \ inch to \ inch, and bars good steel to fit them. If I want a drill
drilled
and tapped.
If anything,
it
should
slope a
much
towards the centre, as shown, very exaggerated, in Fig. 11. This will make
little
put the \ inch plug in place, put in the ^-inch steel bar, and nip it with the set screw, cut off the required length with the
ft inch diameter, I
15
steel
the part required with (the lathe running during the cutting
file,
thin
down
\ inch
and thinning processes), until it is less in diameter than iV inch then flatten the point, form the diamond point with a smooth file, harden and temper, and the drill is ready for work. This takes a very few minutes indeed.
;
is
useful for
many
other purposes:
I have a
which I have screwed holes, which take screws while the heads are being finished. In others, again, the
number of brass plugs, to some of can attach work with solder; others
FIC.I3.
FIC.6.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIGS. I FIG. 3. FIG. 4. FIG. 5. FIG. 6.
FIG. 7
AND DRIVING CHUCK. FACE-PLATE. SECTION OF DRILL CHUCK. REDUCING PLUG FOR DRILL CHUCK. METHOD OF USING CLAMPING PLATES WITH
2.
FACE-
PLATE.
HOW SHOULD POINT TOWARDS CENTRE. 12. SPHERICAL WASHER AT END OF SCREW. FRONT VIEW OF BELL CHUCK. PRONG CHUCK FOR TURNING WOOD. 15. SECTION OF PIPEMAKER'S CHUCK.
VIEW OF DITTO.
16
ROD.
Chipping pieces must be east on for the cylinder brackets, crank shaft bearings, and guide these must be filed straight and parallel. The cylinder is bolted down by four bolts, a centre line being
a tenon about \ inch square is turned on the edge, and a corresponding groove is turned in
the straps.
drawn on the bed-plate, to set it by. The crank shaft bearings are cast iron with the brasses, and loose covers fixed by screws brasses must be fitted so that their centres are The in line with the centre of cylinder. bearings are fixed to bed-plate by two bolts in each. The link in which the crank works is of bosses are formed on wrought iron or steel the back, in which the piston rod is screwed the face must be filed straight and the edges
;
;
;
The eccentric rod is of iron, with a double end, and connected to slide valve spindleby a small bolt. A keyway is cut in the eccentric
fixed
by means of a key. The slide is set so that the port is just beginning to open when the piston arrives at that
end of cylinder. The whole must be fitted together so that each part works easily, but without any slackness. The bed-plate should have six holes drilled in it, to fix it to a wood foundation, and
all
parallel
the width
is
\ inch
a block or dis-
be
and a
bolt put
painted, to give
a neat appearance.
single;
When these through each end to secure it. bolts are screwed up, a hole should be drilled through the nut and end of bolt, and a pin inserted, to prevent it working loose. The guide is drilled with -inch hole to fit piston rod, and bolted to bed-plate by two bolts the hole must be in line with centre of cylinder. The crank shaft is of wrought iron, the web
;
crank
may be used
but be required
being forged
solid.
Turn the
shaft
inch
diameter, and turn two recesses \ inch diameter, The shaft should be made to fit into bearings.
Cleaning Soiled Engravings. It frequently happens that fine engravings, notwithstanding every precaution, become soiled and stained, and a recipe for restoring them is valuable. Put the engraving on a smooth board, and cover it with
a thin layer of common salt, finely pulverised then squeeze lemon-juice upon the salt until a considerable portion of it is dissolved. After every part of the picture has been subjected to\.
and \ inch at each end, turned down to inch, and screwed Then cut the web out, by drilling for a nut. file the holes in it, and cut out with a chisel web out square, and fix to each end of shaft a piece of iron, by the nuts already fitted drill in
\\ inches longer than
is
required,
that
each piece of iron a hole for lathe centres for turning crank pin, which must be \\ inches
from centre of
centre of pin
;
shaft,
and the web two pieces of wood, to prevent shaft bending while turning the pin then fix in the lathe, and turn the crank pin \ inch diameter. Strong brasses must be fitted into the link, with a flange at each side, and bored to fit crank pin.
;
one end of the board soform an angle of about forty-five degrees with the horizon. Then pour on the engraving boiling water until the salt and lemonIt will then be perjuice are well washed off. It must be dried on the fectly free from stain. board, or on some smooth surface, gradually. If dried by the fire or sun it will be tinged of a Wilson's Photographic dingy yellowish colour.
it
will
Magazine.
The fly-wheel is 10 inches diameter, with the rim and edges turned true it must be bored to tit on shaft, and is fixed by means of a key, a keyway being cut in the shaft, and in the boss
;
An excellent and quick way to Mend Broken" Plaster Casts and impressions is to paint the broken surfaces over two or three times with very thick shellac varnish, and at each application to burn out the alcohol over a flame. When
the shellac
is sufficiently
of wheel.
soft,
The
eccentric
sheave
is
of iron,
about \\
together,
be
17
AMATEUR WORK
R ULES.
(1). All articles sent in for
PRIZE SCHEME.
EADERS
have
s
of
Amateur "Work
tlie
will
be
(2).
and by an amateur is meant a workman who does not earn money by the particular class of work in which he competes.
of bona fide amateurs
Publishers
offer
me
to
the
(3).
um
of
December 31st, carriage paid, and Editor op Amateor Work, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London, E.G. Each article must have a label attached bearing tbe name and address of the competitor, and the number of the competition for which he enters.
later
than
addressed
The
encouraging Amateurs, by means of competition, to raise the standard of their work to a higher
-degree of excellence.
(4).
The
he has adopted as his while the "good all-round" men will ample variety of subjects on which
their skill.
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY
ARTIFICIAL LIGHT.
By
L. L.
an
test
NO WING
that a great
readers of
the
in-
desired.)
Simplicity
of
construction in
the
and feeling sure also that many are in the same position as myself, viz., with only a few brief moments between daylight and dark that we can call our own, except for a few weeks, perhaps, in the middle of summer, I thought that a short
terested in photography,
It is
account of
(to
how
managed
accompanied
which need not of necessity be highly finished ; and the MS. should not exceed two thousand words in length, although it may be as short as one hundred words, with an
equal chance of success.
the right to
reserve
II.
by night the whole from the taking of the negative to the mounting of the finished print being done by means of artificial light would be perhaps interesting and instructive to many of our readers who, like myself, are fond of photography, but cannot get at it in the dayme)
of taking portraits
of the processes,
Both print and negative must be the production of I do not require the negative to the competitor, be sent up with the print, but the winner of the prize must be prepared to produce the negative for
inspection as
if
time.
taking,
profit,
may say that my hobby is portrait and though I do not do it altogether for still a few shillings come acceptable in
I
:
desired.
competitor
may
send in
To begin with
am
fortunately the
1
happy
must be mounted, and have the competitor's name and address clearly written on the back.
prints as he pleases, but each print
III.
many
Carte-de-visite lens.
My camera
is
will be
given for
tripod stand,
woods
Pear,
Walnut,
Oak,
Cherry,
con-
Holly,
or Ihree-ply Fretwood.
The
chief
of workmanship, design
work
will
stand an equal
design.
wash-house, where the sink comes in handy for washing negatives, etc. My dark lantern I made myself it is of tin, the back, on triangular in shape, no bottom which is fixed a handle to lift it by, is plain tin, with holes at the bottom to admit air; one side is a sheet of plain glass, painted with two coats
; ;
VOL.
III.
(n.8.) o
till
my
The
my
delibera-
capital ruby and yellow light. I have two backgrounds that cost me about 2s. 6d. each. They consist, simply, of four yards each of brown and slate sateen; each piece was cut in two, and joined so as to make a good-sized back-
was that I
and about
two
lit
feet in front.
I got
my
little
girl to light
1 lit the other, and as they simultaneously I removed the cap, replacing
it
answers
The seam,
and f
if
show
in the negative.
for vignette
portraits
length
were required, I used the wall of the room, and the ordinary furniture. My first experiment was in this manner I happened to see a coil of magnesium ribbon in a
:
had been was pleased to find the result very good indeed a negative that could not be distinguished from one taken by daylight, full of detail and of good printing quality.
it
when
given.
On developing
this I
may
chemist's shop, on
flashed
into
my way home;
mind,
a thought
try
it
my
?
why
not
it,
for
negative taking
to consent to
So
bought
I find that by sticking to one make, one gets accustomed to it, and can obtain far better results than by trying first one make and then another, till the mind gets hopelessly muddled in the vain endeavour to understand
Ilford ordinary.
evening commenced operations. I got my wife be the subject of my first experiments ( " poor victim, says some sarcastic reader) and having focussed carefully by the light of a
' '
The developer
it till
it-
I use
is
you understand
to a nicety.
its
good duplex lamp, I was ready to commence. I made a lamp, or lamp stand, thus In a tin candlestick I fitted a cork, and into the cork thrust a piece of wire about 15 inches long, and bent about 3 inches off the end into a right angle on this I hung a strip of magnesium
:
I adopt a tentative
follows
:
method
of development, as-
ribbon.
I stood
it
on a table close
to the tripod,
and when ready to make the exposure, lit it, and took off the cap I took it into the " dark room " (wash-house) and commenced, with much
;
it.
It
and caused the figure to look something like the ghost of Hamlet's father, as he rises from the trap-door of a country stage. I was not to be daunted, however, and tried again, taking good care this time to have the
front of the lens,
far enough away from the lens. On making my second exposure, and developing the plate, I had just as bad luck, but in a different way. Owing to my placing the lamp on one side, there was a deep shadow on the opposite side, and that side of the face was also too much shaded. This was very disheartening. I could not spend any more time on it that evening, so
light
pour into the measuring glass one ounce of the pyro solution, and only half an ounce of the ammonia and bromide solution, and pour this over the plate. If the image does not appear in about half a minute, I then add more of the ammonia solution; but if, on the contrary, it comes up directly, I pour the developer back, flood the plate with water, and add water to the developer by this method the development is more under control. With regard to exposure, I find that with my Eoss lens, working at F/6, a piece of ribbon, four inches long, in each lamp gives the right exposure. There are lamps in the market for night photography but the good ones are expensive, and I imagine that the cheaper forms would not answer any better than the simple method I have described. Now a word of caution. It is advisable to keep whatever lamp you have in the room still burning while you
;
make
that
it
in such a position
shadow that will show in the negative, as if the room is in darkness when you light the magnesium ribbon, the sudden glare is more trying to the sitter's eyes than if
it
19
good
light
sitters not to
was already burning. Caution your be startled at the light, and let
eyes on a dark spot, as a dark
When
the print
them
fix their
sufficiently dense,
it
is
Focus sharply
get
below the chin the letters seem to me to be plainer and easier to discern than the features of the sitter; and if you can get the reading sharp, the sitter's features will be
;
a clearing solution of alum and citric acid after remaining a few minutes in this, they are washed, and then transferred to the hypo fixing bath for five minutes, and then washed in the
;
much
sharp also.
A few words about printing processes, and I have done. Of these there are two kinds that can be used wholly by artificial light these are alpha paper and bromide paper. Each of these are sold in two kinds, rough and smooth surface, and the bromide paper in two degrees of rapidity;
;
usual way no toning required. The prints must be allowed to dry by themselves, and not be blotted, as the emulsion is rather sticky. The prints when dry are mounted in the usual way. Morgan and Kidd's, Fry's, and the Eastman bromide papers are treated in much the same
:
way.
this short account of
the slow
is
say that although in an amateur's failures and successes there is nothing particularly new, yet I trust it may be of some service to our readers who may not be aware of the fact that they
let
In conclusion,
me
and,
from red
to black.
I like
much
and pure
it
whites.
I consider there
is
it
nothing to beat
is
the platinotype.
ROE,
Jun.,
Institute.
No. 6 gas-burner, or a good lamp. I use a Hink's duplex, with a ground-glass shade or globe, and I find it so no one need be at a answers admirably loss to print, even if they have no gas, as the
to the light of a Bray's
;
SHORT
bers
time back,
of
was
my
privilege
mem-
Directions
in
for
every packet,
size.
by lovers
duction.
and
is
Is.
2d.
^-plate
:
The paper is frame as for ordinary silver printing, and exposed at a distance of six inches from the lamp, or gas. I keep turning the frame round so that all parts of the negative get equally lighted it is then taken into the dark room and put away, and another printed and so
process, in brief,
as follows
The
of turning, it is hoped that the said design will prove useful and worthy of reproIt is a notorious fact that
an article work completely is apt to appear monotonous, and therefore I have ventured to
made
of turned
make
the base of
but, of
desired,
may be
used
if
effect.
For
who
on
till all
All the
manipulations must be carried on by the ruby lantern, as the paper is as sensitive as the plates,
nearly so. The paper is immersed for a minute in water, and then placed in the deIt is veloper, which is the ferrous oxalate. advisable to develop only two or three at a
or
and
At any
little
rate, there
they are
it
will
make but
very
the article.
-20
disc
.is
is, if
turned,
made up
of
:^ide,
The button at back will cover hole on the outand the velvet or plush, with which we =shall have to line it, will perform the same duty inside. For the support under this we shall require to turn a ring to section given, and
afterwards cut out sufficient for our job. The base, if made square, will require to be
can be cut out, as a be fixed from the front of watch-holder, and from underside of
if
it
would be preferable
whole, by a fret-saw.
base.
It can
The
front
must be carefully
cut, as
shown The
in side section.
top, or cresting, will
need very
is
little
explanation.
tapered off
worked with
the ends
first,
work
The
and then
now
the
as well to
fit
supporting
to the base
segment
first.
material to
stand,
is
make
the
One
question.
articles
look exceed-
Fret at B
of
it
an inch
fit
thick.
Do
to
let
wood
holly
would
tightly.
Now
scribing
down on
supporting
look nice, mounted with ebony or other dark wood knobs, despite a rather funereal aspect.
The four
for so
feet
do not
call for
any explanation.
This
is
A design is
made and
be
is
neatly done
many different
The method
of fixing
by driving a
fine
support.
such small metal work is almost out of the question ; therefore, search a dealer's list, and
HO IF TO USE ENAMEL
make
a suitable selection.
elevation is
PAINT.
21'i
drawn
as
left plain,
as suggested.
vertical.
To complete the
requires polishing,
of clearness
is
and then the watch-holder filled in with a piece of velvet, for the watch to rest against. Place the watch in position, and then ask the question whether my hopes that the result would amply repay the labour expended have been fulfilled..
HOW
A CORRESPONDENT.
to
WING
really varnish-paints,
that^
they combine the properties of varnish and of paint, the covering power, or opaquedensity, of enamel is not great. Some makerstry to overcome this
Velvet
drawback, which
is,
is
in-
by making
an advanis
this
of course,
con-
more
difficult.
effect of
much
enamel put on by amateurs has become proverbial, and if another coat is applied, thet effect is not improved, for the thick enamel
of the
surface,
course, before
quite
set.
To
suggested in
Amateur Work,
tries
who
is-
a
therefore not a true elevation, as taken from the side sectional elevation.
new
one.
Obtain some
size
gilder's, whiting.
The
size
many
it
shops
the whiting,
if
The bottom
;
fret
damp
little
it
will,
from the face if the frets are cut out of J-inch stuff, keep flush at back. The fret in back support should be fixed in the middle. It will be observed that the front of back support
penetrates the fret.
while before
required.
;
The
The sinkings in the side pendants should be cut out previous to turning, and may be either
be melted in a jar or saucepan it is not to b&exposed to fierce heat, but may be placed at a.. corner of the stove, and not on the fire. As a further security against burning, a little watermay be put in the vessel before melting the
size,
to leave the?
22
ASBESTOS BLOW-PIPE.
For
oil,
s'ze to form a pellicle or skin upon the surface through too long a continuance of exposure to
articles not
lead
linseed
;
heat. If any skin or scum forms, it is to be removed and thrown away, or the size can be strained for the same purpose. The whiting is to be pounded up finely, which is a very easy matter if it is dry, and scattered gradually into the melted size. When enough is mixed to give the size a little body, the colour is to be matched as nearly as possible to the finishing colour, using fine powder colours, or in the case of those powder colours, such as umber, ochre, etc., which are not fine, ground in water. We must remember that size colours dry lighter, though the reverse is the case with
matching the intended colour carefully or may be used, diluted with a little water. Strong size is not to be used over any paint, or it will cause the paint below it to crack and peel off. In case of a second coat of enamel being
size colour, as above,
Coat the article quickly, using the lukewarm, and applying the colour in a warm room. When dry, it may be carefully and lightly rubbed with fine glass-paper, No. 1 for choice, and, if needful, another coat
oil paints.
required, "let patience have her perfect work," being quite sure that it is dry and hard before the application of another coat. These hints, which are founded on experience, are offered to our readers in order that they may be more successful in the management of these materials, which are said to beautify everything, but which without some care and skill they
certainly fail to do.
size colour
ASBESTOS BLOW-PIPE.
By
L.
S.
two coats are put on, let both be thin. Do not rub the sharp edges with the glass-paper, because that would lay bare the wood, and, if needed, should have been done before the size colour was applied. In fact, any article intended for painting should always have the extreme sharpness of the arrisses removed by the wood-worker. The pigments suitable for tinting the colour
of size
;
given
but
if
D.
use of a blow-pipe
the
numerous
tin
articles of
and
ware,
making,
etc.,
To those who
apparatus, the
live in
is
avail-
the shades
(so-called),
sold,
Prussian
blue,
ultramarine
blow-pipe I
am
about to
;
celestial
blue, the
various
shades
of
purple
much
service
but
to
brown,
others.
ivory black,
way
who have
;
to content
On
and be sure
is
quite
lamp,
the case
is
different
if
it
is
for thick
requirements, they
their defects
;
all,
to
my
and it is quicker and in every way better to put on two thin coats than one coat which is intended to cover the grain of the wood and to retain a high gloss and a hard level surface. These three good qualities are not to be obtained by one coat of even the most opaque, glossy, and hard drying colour yet manufactured.
have
that
you
and turning, not always successful, and which generally results in burnt fingers, or a bad job.
ASBESTOS BLOWPIPE.
wherever it goes, and having a flexible tube, the jet can be directed into all out of the way corners, which is impossible with any others that I have tried. Possibly the self-acting blow-pipes mentioned in Melhuish's list might be an exception, but I have not tried them. However, my little blower, which I have christened, " The Asbestos Blowpipe," must take its chance with these and I
it
23
carries its
asbestos blower
it
is
that
an open cap (as shown in Fig. 3) to fit tightly on to it. The end of the pipe (Fig. 2) should terminate in a bulb for attaching the indiarubber tube to, and as more convenient for the mouth, when used without blast apparatus. The further requirements are some asbestos and
a small piece of very fine brass wire gauze.
asbestos I use
stuffing
;
The
for
is
that used
by machinists
be shredded, and closely packed in the lower part of the cup, as shown
it
must
who
it
at
some
little
experience
it
is
required in
the
it
this,
and equal,
for
if
too tight
spirit,
now
in the market.
too loose,
will not
I cannot claim
tion of
it,
absorb
sufficient.
my
so
it.
The nozzle
travelling on the Conworking jeweller using it, and the facility with which he melted some of the harder metals, such as brass and silver, in a few seconds, attracted my attention and after
tinent, I noticed a
;
Some
years ago,
when
J inch above the stuffing, a small piece of brass gauze, cut circular to fit over the asbestos
(o,
Fig.
1),
little
regretted
my
purchase.
On
home I
must now be put on, and the blow-pipe is complete with its lamp attached. When required for use, pour some proof spirit into the cup, taking care that none goes down the pipe if properly packed, it should absorb from one to two teaspoonsful. After waiting a short time for
pipe,
;
and examined its mechanism, and subsequently fitted it up with appropriate table and bellows, improving on the primitive arrangement I had seen on its first introduction to me, which was that I have shown in
took
it
to pieces,
the spirit to run down into the asbestos, return the superfluous spirit flowing over the gauze back into your bottle it is sometimes advisable
;
to
leave a slight
overflow,
as
it
assists
the
absorbed
spirit to ignite.
Now
slightly
warm
I
Fig.
4.
The sketches
it
;
but a few remarks may not be out of place. Those amateurs who do not understand, or have
not the appliances for metal spinning, will have to call in the aid of a coppersmith or skilled
always use the latter, keeping it alight while I have the blow-pipe in use. By slightly inclining the mouth of the cup over the flame of the lamp,
the spirit in the cup will soon ignite
;
this
may
be
assisted, if
it
mechanic
to
make
It is
made
1.
blast.
When
It
may
a
size,
according to
it
requirements.
trifle
should be
is
drawn
to
powerful jet of flame is thrown out, which, as I before stated, should last in the smaller bowls for five or seven minutes, accordblast, a thin
may
;
state
it
burn without a fresh supply of spirit mine, when properly filled with good proof spirit, burns from five to seven minutes. A common mouth blow-pipe is passed through the cup, and firmly and securely brazed at b. For convenience in subsequent operations, it is better to have the cup made in two pieces, with
refixing
or
blast,
provided too long a time does not elapse, it will it should, however, still be found to be alight
;
be placed in such a position that the spirit will not run out. When the lamp goes out, fresh spirit must be added, then proceed as before,
24
ASBESTOS BLOW-PIPE.
Nevertheless,
it
answers
its
purpose very
well,.
supplying
bottle.
it,
by the explosion
If
it it
conditions,
must be owing
to the spirit
being
out,
and has this advantage, that it costs only a trifle two or three feet of india-rubber tubing, about an inch or two of brass tubing, an india-rubber wind-bag, or regulator, and a small pair of bellows which any amateur, if he turns his hand to, could make himself or failing this, the kitchen bellows might, on an emergency, be-
T.
D,
I,
AND
A, CAP FITTING ON ATo; B, JOINT WHERE PIPE IS SOLDERED TO CAP C, GAUZE WIRE APRON ; FIG. 3. BOWL E, PIPE, 8 INCHES LONG, WITH MOUTH-PIF.CE ATTACHED AS SHOWN IN FIG. 2. 4. APPARATUS COMPLETE G, INDIA-RUBBER WIND-BAG H, STAPLE ATTACHING BELLOWS TO TABLE * SPRING ON BELLOWS K, WIRE STIRRUP FOR WORKING BELLOWS. FIG. 5. BELLOWS SHOWING MODE OF ATTACHING
:
BI.OW-P1PE
CAP.
I.
ASBESTOS STUFFING
FIG.
SPRING
The
tion.
table
and
explana-
called in to do duty.
of some description renders the blow-pipe much more efficient than when used with nature's blast, the lungs and there are many appliances of the kind more suitable than the one I have given.
;
would do), attached by a screw near the nozzle, working in a staple near the centre of upper
flap
;
this
5.
Fig.
HOW
way
that
it
25
has the
effect of
of the foot
The -wind-bag or
which should be about the size of the your hand, and tubing, can be procured for a trifle from any chemical instrument maker the brass tubing is used for attaching the tubing at b, to wind-bag. The rest needs no further explanation but I shall be pleased to furnish any amateur, who desires to try his hand at it, with any information he may require. Possibly, to some of your readers, it may be no novelty, though I have seen no mention of it in
There is a practice followed in this I have already pointed out of allowing boys and youths, with suitable voices This is and looks, to play female characters.
as
palm
and
colleges
and
although
tensively
it
is
it is done very exand for this reason I must therefore just give a few hints for making-up the young and beautiful girl, as well, also, as the old hag, the gipsy, and the market-woman. Young Women. I do not think it advisable to
Amateuk Wokk.
more
easily
HOW
VI.
TO MAKE-UP FOR
THE STAGE.
Wash and dry the skin thoroughly, and well powder the face and neck with Clarkson's Lillie Powder, which is one of the best powders put up, and is used by all the leading;
powder, &c.
actresses.
It
is
sold
by
W.
Clarkson,
Wig
Maker, Wellington Street, Strand, W.C. Failing this, the best pearl powder should be used.
With
little
car-
jjgs^HE make-up for female characters runs much upon the same lines as that for male parts. In ordinary characters at least all those where youth and beauty are conspicuous actresses, both amateur and professional, know well enough how to improve their appearance, whether their looks be good, bad, or indifferent. To such adepts in the art I can teach but little and as most ladies are pretty good judges in this direction, they may
mine powder high up on the cheek-bones, and Apply some also under the carefully blend off. eyes, which will brighten them up considerably. A faint tinge may also be applied under the eyebrows (not on the eyelids) and on the chin.
and the burnt umber water colour, and draw thin lines immediately below the bottom eyelashes, and immediately above the upper ones. The eyebrows are next touched up with the special eyebrow pencils, or the ordinary grease paints, black or brown. To the lips apply a
thin coating of Grenadine, which gives
and
discretion
question.
to play
own taste when a successful make-up is the But when an actress is called upon
them
a.
bewitching and fresh colour. The teeth should be kqpt pearly white. These are shown off to
greater advantage if the
an elderly part characters which the majority despise and hate, although so much artistic success can be gained in them and to transform her fair young face into an old and
gums
are of a ruby
redness
ugly one, then the novice requires certain instructions, so that she may achieve success in
the make-up of the character.
The eyelashes may be painted with a dark water colour, in some cases this is best done by another hand. The whole of the make-up is toned down by a final slight powdering and if
; ;
These are, however, not the only characters which require a good deal of making-up for
;
it
face
stage.
on
the
which require
just as
much
care bestowed
26
altered
HOW
by changing the shape
etc., etc.
of the
allowable, especially
the nostrils,
In the old
comedies,
"powder"
is
or
wig is worn, or perhaps what is technically termed a "front." These are only used, however, when a cap is
special
elderly lady
and I now give the make-up for such parts. Proceed exactly as in the foregoing instructions.
When the make-up is so far completed, put in, with the brown lining pencil, a few furrow lines on the forehead, two or three broadish ones running from the inner corners of the eyes towards the cheek-bones, one or two thinnish
leading
ones under the eyes, one each side of the nose, down on a level with the mouth, and a few wrinkles round the throat. Next shade,
with the brown lining pencil, the hollows at each corner of the mouth, the hollow under the nose,
in centre
of
the
upper
lip,
beneath the lower lip. Make the eyebrows grey with silver powder, and place one or two "beauty spots" about the face according to
taste.
worn to cover the rest of the head. They may be purchased from Fox or Clarkson, and cost from 5s. to 7s. each, or may be hired on reasonable terms. A pair of good full dark eyebrows should be put on in these characters, and one or two teeth may be stopped out with email noir. For very aged parts, such as that of an old witch or hag, more work has necessarily to be introduced upon the face. The furrows on the forehead, and wrinkles about the face, must be bolder and more frequent, and these should be put in upon a groundwork of pale flesh colour and chrome yellow and we see next to no colour in a face of this description. A pair of rough bushy, but rather sparse, white eyebrows must be put on, and a long-haired white wig worn. The hair upon the- wig must be
;
A court
wig
is
worn
in these characters,
in
and should be carefully adjusted. The hands and arms in all female characters must receive
careful attention.
Parts. For such make-up requires to be of a more elaborate and bolder nature. This amount of boldness depends entirely upon the size of the stage and theatre or hall. If the actress is
Character and
Low Comedy
about to perform in a large theatre, then the make-up must be somewhat harsh and bold, requiring very little toning down or softening
but if the stage or hall is a small one, where the actors are extremely near to the
off;
Nearly the whole of the teeth must be stopped out, which adds greatly to the effect of a character of this class. The hands and arms must also be attended to in witch characters. Bub the back of the hands with chrome yellow, and then give them a dusting with fuller's earth then rub some brown lining colour in between the knuckles, and put in a few lines This will on the knuckles and finger-joints. give them a shrivelled and bony appearance. Put in the veins on arms and hands with the veining pencil, and the make-up is about
;
complete.
General Remarks on Ladies' Mahe-up.
Commence by preparing the skin to receive the make-up in the same way as that given for male characters. The way to make up such a character as Mrs. Bouncer in " Box and Cox "
a specimen of the elderly landlady class
follows
:
have
who play
ladies' characters
as far
in
or those
as regards
is
as
of Fox's
costume and character parts. There are, however, a good many amateur actresses who regard making-up as unworthy of any great
consideration
Apply
on their part
fact,
think
it
the cheek-bones, the chin, and under the eyebrows, a fair amount of carmine. Line with umber the line beneath the lower eyelashes,
Nature
and introduce all the lines about the eyes, nose, mouth, and forehead, as described in the last chapter the only difference being that in this
;
no doubt, endowed these charming creatures with an abundance of good looks and regular -features therefore, they say to themselves that any artificial adornment is unnecessary in any
;
shape or form.
Now,
HOW
idea,
27
and one which I have seen demonstrated upon the amateur stage many times. Those
who
and
same on
complete study by
practical hints
its
the
eyes their
Ladies,
who
shadows
Ladies
about
of
this
the
class
eyes,
nose,
and mouth.
be
called
can
hardly
must know but very little of the profession and the requirements of the actor's
they would
and painting should first be carefully mastered following this up by studying the peculiar effects which the concentrated glare of the footlights has upon the work a matter which must be
;
art, or
know
that,
absolutely, the
well understood.
light present
The
human countenance
artificial glare of
requires,
when
perfect
fact,
before the
difficulties
such
as
cannot
be
of making-up, no matter
in the pure light of day.
how
it
may be
The
seeming^
so strange until quite grasped, has to be ever in mind, that a particular colour seen over the footlights does not present
its
by the unstudied but with a bare rudimentary knowledge of painting and anatomy, and the ability to appty it properly to otir work,
stood,
;
these
difficulties
will
soon
disappear.
In
making-up the
nature,
is
daytime.
this.
There
is
It is only a
man
or
white.
The general
is
possessed of as much or more of the blue rays of daylight, such as the electric arc light. Therefore, it is this effect of artificial light that
complexion
for female
and for
make-up
By
this
must guide artistes in their selection of colours ior making-up and this same law compels them, when they have selected the right colours, to use them several shades darker than would be necessary in the daylight. The above is quite sufficient to show that making-up, instead of being ignored, should form a particular study
;
yellow
I do not
mean
should be employed as to
enough
to
In looking pure white and pink. juvenile parts, actresses are advised to use a mixture of chrome yellow (powder) and carmine, diffused over the face pretty equally, with the
prevent
it
its capabilities, while being exercised to the uttermost, should never be outraged in the slightest degree. In the art
which
may be
preferred.
first
principles
is to
;
be able
and to go beyond the art of acting. "Within certain limits, an artiste is perfectly justified in going outside the beaten track but as all arts have fixed and peremptory rules for the guidance of their followers, so it is incumbent upon those followers to work well
to successfully counterfeit the original
gives a very healthy and natural glow of youth to the face and features, which, though even plain in mould, thereby receive a pleasing
go beyond counterfeiting,
is
to
appearance.
quite toned
seen, is
it
really
in
and which,
within the
And
as
making-up
art,
a part
trionic
so
is
regulated
hisfirst
These together produce a mellow, warm flesh colour, and if used in conjunction with grease paints, and then finished by the application of powder all over, a good effect can be guaranteed. Eegarding the powder, the following can be recommended as a useful, clean, and harmless
preparation, being prepared from arrowroot Take a quantity of the finest arrowroot, which
:
main example
of that counterfeiting
first
which has
principles of
28
mutt
he
AN ORNAMENTAL CLOCK
quite free
it is
it
CASE.
reason
as well to dry
AN ORNAMENTAL CLOCK
By CBAS.
A.
CASE.
pound
one a
into a fine
powder
in a mortar
divide
PARKER.
it is
the writer's
whatever.
The
colours
Mix each
and keep as
air-tight as possible, to
will
band be placed
an amateur.
By
will
round the joint of the lid and box, it will keep the powders perfectly dry. The various coloured powders thus obtained will all be found exceedingly useful; but the two most generally required aro those coloured with carmine and Armenian
bole.
be seen that the front and sides are fret-cut, the remainder of the case being formed of evenly planed lengths of wood of the required of size, which are glued together in the form which by behind door a having a box or case, of to gain access to the clock, for the purpose
winding and setting the hands. The first proceeding will be to mark out a
full-size pattern
and actresses that of the former one, very much more effective than the use of a plain white.
of
Fig.
1,
the measurement
being
9,}
inches
by 3|
inches,
employing a
especially suitable
sheet of paper of double thickness, in order that two of these patterns may be cut out by means
of a pair of scissors, after
hung on the
made from
The horse is opened to the form of a triangle, bringing the opposite ends together and fastening them securely. Three
shelves, J inch thick, are cut to rest upon the three sets of bars, having the angles cut to fit
be pasted on to a board of sufficient size, \ inch thick, which is then carefully sawn to the outline by a fret-saw, care being taken to
saw square through the board. When the two the sides have been prepared, a paper plan of on drawn then is front of the case (Fig. 3)
another sheet of paper, the outside measurement of this being 6| inches by 5j inches, having an opening 4 inches in diameter in the centre; and when this is ready, it is pasted
The
decorated with
ornamental
In place
the shelves
may
on
is
in
be ornamented with bands of chamois skin cut a decorative open work design, and lined with yellow silk, or with such other decoration Builder and Woodworker. as fancy may suggest.
which
as before.
A narrow
;
strip of
wood
of the
same same
thickness is also
form
of Fig. 4
this
finish
wood
alcohol,
add 2 pints
back of the case. The flat top of the case, which may be the same thickness as the front, will measure 5$ inches by 3 inches ; this may have one of the long sides curved
railing at the
and add 4 ounces sulphuric ether (common Shake ether) and 4 ounces aqua ammonia. when used, and apply with a sponge lightly.
or
5),
or,
if
preferred,
strip
may be
left square,
and a narrow
of
AN ORNAMENTAL CLOCK
The bottom
(Fig.
.5),
CASE.
29
of the case,
which
is
shown
at
a piece of J-inch wood ok inches by 2| inches, planed up smooth, square, and true. Thus prepared, the case is readjr for putting
is
together
is
done,
it
will
be
"When the glue has be put iu position, when the case will be ready for the door, which is formed of a single piece of 3l-inch wood measuring o\ inches by 5-J- inches, being hung
top and bottom of 5 inches.
set,
may
necessary to plane
couple of pieces of
to
up a
deal
in position
by means
of a
pair of
-J
2|
serving
keep
it
closed.
screws and
nails will be
;
on a
flat surface,
then take
shown
quires
in Fig.
1,
as
it
re-
top of the case, and having glued the edges, place them
in position on the side of the case, as shown in the
something of this kind to relieve the wood. Next, for the railing, which is shown in Fig. 6,
FIG.
sectional
diagram (Fig.
5).
CLOCK CASE COMPLETE. FIG. 2. SIDES. 3. FRONT. FIG. 4. TOP OVER RAILING. FIG. 5. SECTION OF CASE. FIG. 6. RAILING. FIG. 7. BRASS TURN BUTTON. FIG. 8. FRETWORK RAIL FOR TOP OF CASE. FIG. 9. TURNED RAIL, FULL SIZE, FOR TOP OF CASE.
I.
turn, or
get
turned, six
FIG.
of the case in the form of a fillet, as shown>t c (Fig. 5), the bottom being afterwards glued in the position indicated
at b, with the other
fillet glued on the inside, in such a position as to allow a space between the
These spindles are fitted into holes bored in the rails, which are a couple of strips of wood f inch by J inch, forming a very neat little railing, similar in appearance
at top
and bottom,
30
AMATEUR CONJURING.
Fig.
9,
to
that
may be
glued in position on
shown
in Fig.
WHAT
rail,
wood
ARTHUR BARLEY.
being furnished with a couple of thin slips o wood, as shown at a, Fig. 4, which are glued ou to them in the position indicated at b. Another style of railing for the top of the case,, which may be preferred by some, is shown In order to dispense with the turned in Fig. 8.
would not be out of place, beginning of these papers, to just say a few words on fitting-up your properties ready for an entertainment.
at the
THINK it
wooden
spindles,
it
desired,
don't
to
want
to
know some
may be
fitted
into
a piece of
the distance of the spindles apart, with a smaller the spaces between them, similar to the upper portion of Fig. 8 the smaller circles may be readily drilled by means of a centre-bit. In glueing up the wood, always remember that glue applied hot and thin will make the best joint,
circle in
;
as
it
is
of the
wood.
been made in mahogany or is unable to French polish the work, a very good effect will be
If the case has
but I have always found that if you have your properties arranged in proper order, a trick goes off as well again as if you had to hunt for this, and look for that, which you quite forgot until the trick was about half done. There is no need for large, unwieldy, gilded tables, with a tablecloth hanging all the way down the front your audience will be sure to suspect it. Neither is there need to have a pointed cap and long dressing-gown, with mysterious signs all over them.
tricks "
;
;
You may
obtained by giving
varnish,
it
by means
which are very cheap now. If you are a you will, perhaps, get more pleasurefrom making them yourself but be that as it may, we shall require two. Now, as to trapturner,
;
glazed surface.
doors in them. I do not fancy trap-doors myself ; but for the benefit of those who do, I will describe
the making.
First of
all,
is
somewhat
diffi-
handy
The
must be broken, and the best use of Moorish lattice-work, dropping a couple of light arches from the ceiling, directly over and in a fine with the foot of the staircase, letting them meet over the newel post a Japanese bead-curtain dropped from the hall arch head permanently fastening it against the wall at the height of the newel post. The arch heads should be made of the same kind of wood as that used in the finish of the hall, and may be simply carved, deriving their principal value from their shape.
;
square ones are the easiest to make, and they act as well as any. After you have cut the wood
out,
hinge
it
you only put one on, you will soon find that sometimes your trap
Then
Glue the cloth on, tack round the edge, to prevent the cloth curling up. Fig. 1 shows under side of table. Then cut a piece of wood to form the tray, or " servante," as it is
with green cloth.
technically called, as in Fig. 2.
I cannot give
Now
get
some
all
and tack
fringe, about 4 or 5 inches deep, round the edge, except about 8 inches
AMATEUR CONJURING.
where the fringe would be in the way when 3~ou were taking anything from the " servante." The depth of the fringe must be regulated by the depth of the " servante " from
at the back,
31
Have your
time ago,
little
knocked down
hisjscreen,
and the
Then
The
so that it holds the trap up, " servante " should also have
audience had the pleasure of seeing him placing a bank-note in the centre of a candle in preparation for his next trick.
some
cloth fastened
on
it,
so as to
deaden the
Do
not have a
lot
l.'i
f/'//
F c
i
Underside of Table
F C 2
I
.
Section of Table
littered
about,
as
The
table
is
Do
not do a
trick
now
finished.
"When
ing, the
perform-
two tables should have plants standing on them, so that no inquisitive individual,
s
FIG.
I.
A,
;
;
twice,
however well
^
;
;
who
asks
fig 3
who
SPRING B B, HINGES C, DOOR D, STAY TO KEEP DOOR IN PLACE WHEN NOT IN USE. FIG. 3. A, KITCHEN TABLE B B, SMALL ROUND TABLES C C, CHAIRS D, DRAW
how
to
the trick
is
you
to
do
it
again,
make
certain.
Do
borrow a couple of chairs, and place one near each table. Then get the kitchen table, and tack fringe round all the sides, except the one on which the drawer is. Pull the drawer about 8 or 10 inches open, and you have a splendid servante " (see plan Fig. 3). There is no necessity to have a stage, side- wings, curtains, etc. but you may have a screen behind, to which you may retire at " half-time." That is everything you require, of course excepting
' ' , ;
Now
turned.
Do
any remarks your audience may make, as there is generally one individual, at least, whe
knows how that's done." Do not get flurried, you are nearly sure to make a mess of the trick you are doing.
"
or
In my next article I will give a few hints on " sleight of hand proper."
32
WHERE DID
PUT
IT?
same manner
but probably
Fig.
;
WHERE
By
E^
C.
DID
PUT IT?
together in the
MAYNARD WALKER.
for you, dear,
city
of ordinary deal, J inch thick but the quality of the material I must leave entirely
to the reader.
was made
Having decided
I'll
!
you now
I
Dear me
find
it
a length 13 inches by If, shaped as in Fig. 2, for the back the particular shape is unimpor;
cannot
any-
tant, so that it is
sketch.
little
It will
and
its
ornament there
upon
as
it,
is to
hide
it,
much
as
possible,
Arthur, I
am
awfully
it
when
in use.
Fig.
which
for
holding
as shown,
and
papers
is
securely
one
so apt
or
letter
down
in
a
all
sis pieces are to be cut. In order to get the pattern, it will be most convenient to lay a piece of tracing paper
about
think,
it
directly.
over
the
illustration,
if
I were a
man
off-
and having pasted it on the wood, and cut out one piece, an indefinite
hand!"
The
above,
number
of
copies
may be obtained
it
by a simple method,
which, as
able to
fretwork,
is applic-
be the writer's excuse for devoting a short article to a most handy and useful household knicknack, in the form of an improved springclip
letter
all
kinds
of
of
of
which
copies
a
are
FIG.
number
required,
the
I. FkONT.
FIG.
2.
BACK.
me
a
guard,
turning
aside
for
which, while being sufficiently ornamental for the position it is intended to occupy, is very
easily
made at a trifling cost and unlike the ordinary hinged or open guards, will, by means of a spring, hold the smallest piece of paper as
;
Unless describe seldom use any other method, and deem any pattern that is worth working up at all, is worth while keeping the first cut
to for
moment
very large
work, I
Having
thus fulfilling a
the pattern
very general requirement in a private house, or even a place of business. Fig, 1 represents the
finished article in use, Fig. 2 being a back view
by filing,
remedied
;
can be
take
ordinary black
ink,
Of
course,
any number
of guards
may be
put
copying by preference (but any sort, black, red, or blue will answer), and add sufficient sugar or syrup to give it a slightly thicker
WHERE DID
consistency than
PUT
IT7
33
could
be
keep this in a well-corked bottle. Now make a dabber (Fig. 4), by covering a small bundle of old rag with
a piece of cloth,
flat forming a of round knob inches 2 about wide this should be well wetted and
;
both ends, to facilitate which, the ends should bo softened by heating in a lamp flame to a dull red the corners of each end should also be turned over, so
;
that
wood,
the
squeezed,
to
so
as
all
the
be
damp
to
it
shown
in
through. Youthen
have
apply
simply
to
the
mouth
bottle,
of the ink-
4J
the
with
a
the "
and
shake to get
cient
suffi-
upon
;
surface
" dab
of
the
face
the
pattern,
in
such
Now, by
of
means
small
work
well, to
little
leave
ink.
very
centre tab
of each
guard from
;
behind
tight,
screw up
of
so that the
bent
corners
of cloth
lay the
FIG. 3.
OF GUARD.
many
prints
as
through the back from the front, and screw on to the back, as in Fig. 2, beginning at the top
adjust the clips to what one degree of tightness you prefer, by bending them before screwing
;
you
like.
printing.
Be
careful
not
to
to back.
fuzzy outlines.
our work.
But Having
to return to
as your taste
may
prefer
then,
each rack
inches long
what
is
known
;
as
you will agree with me that you are in possession of a pair of very 'useful and handy articles, and shall not be surprised to hear that you printed off a number of copies, and made up a few as acceptable
I think,
4._"
DAIJB
34
as
good as an
ordinary press,
but
little
FRANK
S.
MORTON.
^|0R
yg I
presents
in the
;
about as
of
many
difficulties
way
complete success as
any but it can be mastered know by the amateur at home, and with lots of and a patience, very few tools, excellent work can be done. I have
puzzled for hours
over
volumes
of
made, and easily worked. A good way to finish the edges of the book is to sprinkle them with coloured inks. To do this, clamp the book, edge up, in the pressing boards, putting pieces of paper between the covers and fly-leaves, and bending them back over the covers to protect them. Take a stiff brush an old tooth-brush is good and dip it into the ink, taking up a very little. Scrape the brush
m agazines I wished
to
over
piece
of
bind up
that
the
set
FIG.
wood
the
COMPLETE, SHOWING BOOK UNDER PRESSURE, AND HAVING PIECES OF WOOD ABOVE AND BELOW TO PROTECT BINDING.
I.
till
most of
is
ink
it
gone,-
PRESS
trying
piece
over
my
standard
too
high.
But the
to
result well
when
was able
turn out a
presentable book.
stray hints that
A few
I have
b
SHOWING POSITION OF
NOTCHES.
learnt
be
of
paper until no blots fall from the brush. Then rub it over the stick, holding it over the book, and a fine sprinkle of ink will If fall on the edges. tightly clamped together,
of
brother amateur.
To have
out
come
D
red,
the
^-j
ink
will
not
;
trate
the book
penethen do
in good shape, it must be kept under pressure a good deal, and therefore a press of some kind is needed. A very simple arrangement for the purpose is shown in Fig. 1. A thick pieee of plank is cut to dimensions large enough for the largest book Cut four that it will be likely to be needed for. notches in the ends, as shown in Fig 2. Both the upper aud under planks may be of the same size, or the upper one inay be in two pieces for different sized books, which I think is the better way. Four common carriage bolts, with plenty of thick washers, are used to screw the two
the
ends
first
the
same.
is
A
with
'
nice-looking edge
made
by
sprinkling
and then with black. Any spots that are on the edges should be taken out, as much as possible, with fine glasspaper, after the book is clamped in place. The ink sprinkling will cover up a multitude of sins, however, in the way of marks and spots. Lettering and finishing in gold is a difficult operation for the amateur to perform without
considerable practice. "With the tools described in the article on " Home-made Tools for Lettering and Finishing Books," which was published in Part
together as in Fig.
to
1.
As
XIX.
of this magazine,
good work
be
scarred,
it is
board, to go between
new
this
can be done after practice. I never found it so easy to work the lettering first, and then pencil
in the glaire
arrangement much or
pressure can be
glaire
first,
and finish, as I did to coat with and work the gold in with the first
35
The surface
to
be gilded or lettered
should be coated evenly with the glaire, and allowed to dry. Then coat again, taking care
not to rub off the
first
the name is to be printed directly on the book, the copper type and holder referred to above can be used, unless regular tools are
Where
coat
allow
it
to
dry
at hand.
point to
if
remember
the holder
is is
that better
thoroughly,
cotton
heated
as
slightly oiled.
well as the type, so as to hold the heat longer. little lacquer puts a fine finish on the
them
line
them over
it.
book.
The
work
is
lettering.
There
The following recipe is a good one, and the lacquer made according to it gives a Pulverise and dissolve rich looking surface.
1
book in the
rience
latter
expe-
one to do it safely. The best way for an amateur is to use labels, printing them before he sticks them to the back
enables
of the book
leather
;
mastic,
then add \ ounce of Venice turpentine, and This will give a lacquer of fine colour filter.
For a book bound in sheep, one black and one red label look well. For morocco, black is good for both. If the amateur is in possession of a printing outfit, he is well prepared to turn out first-class
for this. labels with ordinary printer's type.
come
handy
and when rubbed over the an excellent finish. A leather it very little should be used, as it dries very quickly, and if too much is used it will dry
and a good
polish,
will impart
streaked.
To do
this,
For the end paper, which is stuck down over the inside of the cover, thick manilla paper is good for ordinary work it isj strong, and looks
;
using only metal furniture to fill out with. The smaller the chase the more handy the operation.
well
if
is
used.
It
making up marbled
looks fully as well.
paper,
Heat chase, type, and furniture by laying face up on a piece of sheet iron over a large lamp or gas jet. Heat slowly and carefully until the type will hiss. In the meantime have your press ready, the impression regulated, and the
piece of leather to be used for a label coated
and
for
many books
Method
to
A New
of Etching
Metals.
The
The
to the
what appears
desired
When
is
place on the
subsequently
take
prints.
image
is
way
it
can be
backed with
proceeding
as
to
The chase and metal furniture will help to hold the heat until the gold is set. Bub a little lard over the type just before taking it from the
place where
to t^H
it is
One terminal
of
is
an
electric current
from a dynamo
current
passes,
heated.
As soon
commences
in
the
good way
;
the
metal
is
rapidity that
be few
type on the iron by the side of the chase it will melt quicker than the large type and when
;
minutes the exposed portions are eaten in to the depth of the thickness of a sheet of paper. In
this
it starts,
farther
heat.
to
manner the zinc may be very rapidly etched any depth desired.
down
to
nothing, looking
into
place,
To make a Watertight Joint between Glass and Zinc, for a small aquarium, melt together Burgundy pitch, 150 parts; gutta pereha in sheets, 25 parts; ground pumice stone,
75 parts.
36
HOW
TO
the
TO
way
IT.
HOW
IT.
5.
of a rolling diaphragm for the curtain an aphengiscope for exhibiting opaque objects, water tank to show animalculaj, etc. Hitherto high-class magic lanterns have been
effect,
outside the scope of the average but why, I never could understand, as like everything else, it is very simple when you know the way, and the tools are few and
considered
amateur
inexpensive.
Tlie Body. A glance at Fig. 1 will show you the sort of thing we are going to make. Mahogany, French polished, is usually employed, but any wood will do. I have made one of American white wood, called bass, and decorated
ES,
my
know you
times the amount
all
;
is
impossible,
the money.
it
But, extraordinary as
lantern,
may
seem,
unial
can be done; a
dissolving
with
all
the latest
This wood
very easy
improvements, a pair of 10 feet gas-bags, and all the necessary apparatus for the making and working of the gases, in the bargain. Yes, all
the lot for 5.
It
is
Mahogany
but
is
is
means
of enter-
young
work, heavy, and expensive. Having decided upon the wood, I must explain how the case is made, so that you will know the
hard
to
bishop of Canterbury observed, as a religious, moral, and educational agent it has no rival
and now, that through the aid of photography, slide-making is so simple, every amateur workman should possess one. The pleasure he will be able to shower on the juvenile members of his acquaintance, ought alone to repay him, to
say nothing of the profit
to
it is
possible for
him
and quantity required. The side shown in 1 (where you will stand to work the lantern when exhibiting), is made of a framework 1 inch wide, with a stile in the centre, and should be about ^ inch thick it can be halved together, but better far to be mortised; this will take a piece 24 by 4 inches by f inch, minus the saw-cut but as we are not working
size
Fig.
make.
to
But, of course, there are lanterns and lanterns and, say what you will, there is nothing
;
lantern
You
all
it
dangerous well,
;
I can say
it is
that
if
follow
my
instructions,
perfectly safe,
you and
it will not matter if our \ of an inch more or less. The left-hand division must be rabbeted out to take the panel a, or it can be secured flat on the back if the rabbeting is too much trouble.
hair-breadths,
is
impossible to
have an explosion.
of
b,
The right-hand division is for the little door, which is framed of \ inch square for this
;
The
it
;
process
is
making the
simple,
gas, or rather
we
the gases,
so
It
side, so
but
if
that
when
it is
much an
ready
so I
filled.
am
many
to
of
my
readers'
that,
pockets will
friend the
style
;
not
allow
them
it
to
run to be a
make our
-
old
but
will
new
tight
also
with water
pressure, the
ether saturator,
when closed. The two panels can be very thin, say \ inch, and we shall require about 23 by 9 inches by
new
in
\ inch.
HOW
TO
IT.
37
with the fret-saw, to take blue glass windows, which enable the operator to see that the lights
are going on
all right.
2 inches in diameter.
most makers is, that the tubes and fittings are too small and fragile, easily put out of order, and having no provision or convenience for
getting
at
The
putty,
glass
is
put in with
them
conse-
frequently compelled to
make
door
;
a finish
the centre
to
from the plinth and the upper one, about 4 inches from the top in
5 inches
;
it back to the makers be repaired. This door must also be hinged at the front or left-
send
of
will
the
burners.
hand side of the lantern, have a brass knob to open it with, and a brass button on the right-hand top
corner to secure
it.
give us the
measurements.
The
open
it
stiles
We
brass
top
knob
to
hy,
at the
to
this
a piece
-|
22
corner
inches by
inch,
by 1 and for
secure
with.
is
Fig. 3
"^
F IC. 3.
12
to correspond
The 24 by
in the centre
we
a plain piece of wood 12 inches by f inch, with three holes 4i inches diameter (cut with the fret - saw), to take the cases that carry the condensing
front,
Fig.
4,
is
lenses.
38
For the back we require a piece of inch, same size as the front, and in which there are no holes of any sort this is different to any lantern you have ever seen, and the advantages of which you will see later on.
;
breeders,
is
a very
good layer of rich brown eggs, and not prone to sitting half a dozen of these found their way to keep company with the Eocks and the Dorkings. The Americans have a strong fancy for the Silver Wyandotte a
a
plump
table
bird,
brown egg, and thriving like the Eock, anywhere, under any conditions. Half a dozen, Wyandottes were added to the farm stock.
laying a
E. E.
J.
HARRIS.
very
Broody hens in the early season are sometimesdifficult to obtain and with a view to
;
the question to himself Do poultry pay ? and selecting various breeds by way of trial, he proposed to test the question by experience. Renting a house with under an
acre of meadow land adjoining, he proceeded, at an expenditure of about five pounds, to convert an old cow lodge into a poultry house, with divisions therein to accommodate seven different
was had to some of the more determined sitting breeds, and six Light Brahmas, six Buff Cochins, and twelve Partridge Cochins were imported so that, with eggs and chickens, all emergencies might be duly provided against. Six dozen
;
all, costing, at three-halfpence per bird per week, nine shillings for subsistence, and
fowls in
breeds of fowls.
quarter of the
Some
forty shillings
to
bred birds, as
so
much
invested capital, to
meadow
;
from the fowl house so that each variety had dormitory and runs to its own separate use. Coloured Dorkings are fine full-breasted, short-legged, and large birds. As a table fowl there is no variety comes near them for sweetness and delicacy of flesh, for quality and quantity of meat, alike rich, tender, and full of and their eggs being on a par with flavour
;
Some
cient
but birds in runs depend almost entirely on their keeper for whatever they may eat, and if at three-halfpence thebirds would never refuse a little more, then three-halfpence has not exceeded the bounds of moderation and domestic economy, when applied
to the amateur's
their
selected two dozen of this breed to start his poultry farm. The Plymouth Bock has its admirers, and some
egg basket.
commencement
this
they wish to secure strong broods of and a constant supply of large brown-shelled eggs. "Why the browncoloured egg should sell in the market better
breed
if
than the white one of the Dorking or the Hamburgh, is a detail which passes comprehension.
weekly expenditure. But why, it may be asked, commence poultry keeping in January when hens are not in full lay till spring. Simply because a stock of laying hens is not readily attainable when birds are in full profit, and their owners have had the loss of keeping them in. idleness during the winter.
Now, we
often read in
many
of the excellent
been said that the brown eggs are richer in flavour than the white ones but surely depth of colour in the shell cannot impart depth of tone or quality to the taste. At any rate, twelve Eocks were added to the farm stock, that their behaviour might be compared with others, and judged upon.
It has
;
poultry manuals that such a breed is a laying fowl through the winter, that another will be in,
full lay
of twelve,
and that
some
remarkable fecundity, they almost lay two eggs per day in the height of the season, when visitors
A CHESTNUT ROASTER.
have their matutinal new-laid eggs at any cost and under any conditions. But experience teaches a little, and Dorking or Cochin, Kock or Brahma, these birds seem to have some
rooted antipathy against providing a constant supply of eggs when the fowl-runs are white with snow, and the water in the drinking
39
till new potatoes came in the following and not counting the pleasure of enjoyment at will of a somewhat scarce article of
year,
diet
troughs is frozen up. January is the birds' holiday time; February, and one or two old hens will take a turn at egg production, as if
for starting the machinery in motion to fully realise the farmer's dream of profit a plentiful supply of March hatched
in preparation
A CHESTNUT ROASTER.
Bv
||S Christmas
it
II.
J.
W.
is
and
chickens.
It will not be out of place here to put on record the chicken butcher's estimate of the various breeds mentioned in this paper, without
.
regard to quality of egg, and looking at the birds solely for their value, when cooked and on
the table.
might be acceptable to our amateur tin-smiths, who no doubt have received many a lecture for baking chestnuts on the fire-grate, when all of a sudden one bursts and makes a report like a
gun,
scaring
of pre-
the
elderly
ones out
of
their
eminence; in fact, as table birds, the butcher will hardly look at one of the others. The Bock's yellow legs and yellow skin are
senses.
flesh is
neither so rich nor so juicy as that of the Dorking, and the traces of yellow fat to be
found in the bird, are strong objections to the breed as an article of diet. These same remarks apply with equal force to the "Wyandotte, the Langshan, the Cochin, and the Brahma, and each
rejected
of the
certain
The bottom is made of No. 22 Birmingham wire-gauge sheet-iron, and has a lock seam (see "Joints used in Tin-plate Working," Vol. II., page 289). It has eight clamps (see d, sectional elevation) rivetted on the sides, and on to these is dropped a perforated bottom. A hole is cut out of the side, and a door rivetted on a hasp is also secured to door by means of rivets. The top is wired with J-inch rod and the bottom has four legs, rivetted, which should be of same material as the fire-pot. The fuel used is char; ;
flesh.
coal.
The
roaster,
During the early spring months, say up to the end of June, some three hundred chickens were
about half of these being featherlegged, were sold at two shillings a couple, the
other half realised three shillings the brace. Over eighty dozen eggs were sold at an average
of one shilling per dozen and there was, besides, a liberal egg supply for a household of eight
;
or fire-pot.
inches.
be seen from the from the bottom The material used is 2 inches by 10
as
will
hatched;
The
is
sides
are tapered
the
outside
apartment
nuts.
The
cover
is
e.
Handles are
fire-pot
fire if
persons.
keep for twenty-six weeks amounted, at nine shillings per week, to eleven pounds fourteen shillings. Sales of
total cost of
The
and roaster
the latter to
lift
same from
is
desired (see
c).
chickens
pounds fifteen shillings eggs realised four pounds making a total on the credit side of twenty- two pounds fifteen shillings, and a profit of eleven pounds one shilling not allowing anything for the rich
eighteen
;
; ;
reached
made
in
it,
;
and has
the latter
a represents
fill
40
centre of cover;
A CHESTNUT ROASTER.
or,
if
The seams
alike,
ornament, like shape shown in drawing. The oven rests on the edge of the water apart-
for both compartments are made the bottom being " turned up," and sides
" lock-seamed."
Back elevation.
Side elevation
End Elevation
A
B.
Bottle
screw.
Vent tube
Supports,
C Handles
D
Z
Knob.
ment, and
is
sectional elevation
article until
tapered sides,
fire-pot.
and resting
on
wired
top
of
A USEFUL TOWEL-HORSE.
41
We
have, doubtless,
all
is
WITH'
AETICLES
OF
HOUSEHOLD UTILITY.
E OE,
Junr., Silver and Honours Medalist City and Guilds of London Institute.
towel-horse,
when
completed,
skill at
is
enamelling.
The
S3T
is probable that here and there will be found a reader who will remark, " What an extremely simple thing to
publish,
namely
How
Now,
to
make
towel-horse."
I have
observed
articles
many
of
simple, useful,
are
very
welcome
time,
to the
and plenty
the
case,
room
to
be
This
being
trust to
I venture to
furniture,
etc.,
for
household use.
by
taste
and circumstances
the worker to give a passing glance to a broken white tint which, I believe, is termed " Ivory."
Now,
you
when you purchase have full instructions with it, so that it will be unnecessary for me to occupy both time and space with a repetition of such.
if
will
~y
F
'
we
if
French polishing or varnishing be preferred, pine may still be used with effect, but, generally speaking, hard wood is preferable, on account of its superior appearance and strength.
42
A USEFUL TOWEL-HORSE.
deep,
The sketches are to the scale of Ih inches to a foot, the details being half size ; the radii
of the curves are figured, so that
inch
care
if
no
difficulty
should occur on that score. Our first operation must be to cut out the four legs. When setting out, allow 1 inch extra length to each, for the tenon into top, e half size
;
be taken, not to run these through, but after glueing, to put in a skew nail from the under
side.
section of legs is
careful,
shown
at a.
when
cleaning up, to
stuff.
Of rails we require four two to section h, and two to section g the length is really conditional upon circumstances, but I would suggest 2 feet
;
The four
may now
be placed together, and the mortises set out to take the tenons on the cross bars, b and c. J elevations are shown half size of each but if it is preferred, the two together, taken as J elevation, would look well if this is done, both may be alike. The mortises will be sufficiently large
; ;
6 inches long as being convenient. The tenons on the ends will, of course, be set out in accordance with the mortises, and cut before working
into shape.
The ends
on e a half size elevation of this is shown at i. I think that it is quite clear, from the sketches,
will require careful scribing to the hollow
they are \ inch long by \ inch wide. It is not necessary to drive the mortises through if they are stubbed in about inch, and good
if
;
glue be used when putting together, the strength given will be found all that is requisite. Should
shown at h. The remaining things to be seen to are the top pieces shown at d these, it will be observed, are worked hollow on both sections. Care must be exercised to work the hollows evenly, as;
any doubt be entertained, the bottom cross-piece may be tenoned through; but, in any case, it is
not necessary to treat the middle one so. The on top of legs will require to be /^ inch in thickness, as shown by dotted lines at tenons
A,
otherwise,
when
surface,
and
if left
about
inch long
it
will
be found
ample.
The top
e,
first,
is prepared in two portions one being the other n we must get out the e pieces
;
and after planing up all round, set out the mortises to take the tenons on top of legs (4 elevation is shown at e) ; these mortises run
through, being wedged on the top side, and afterwards cleaned off flush. It is often
advisable to lower the top of the tenon below the surface of surrounding stuff by means of a
Perhaps the hint to prepare a rubber from a piece of waste wood, in section the reverse of the hollow, on which to stretch the glasspaper, will prove of use. I can imagine the voice of our Editor saying, in mild yet suggestive tones, that all things, even towel-horses, must have an end, and therefore we must hasten to screw the two top pieces on with a couple of screws to each, and reach that end which I have hinted at. In conclusion, I would refer the worker to
defects are easily discernible.
that
remedy
for all
ills,
namely, "Amateurs in
up>.
gouge
The
as follows
The mortises
for the
e, in
Dissolve in
warm water
.
10 ounces
2 drachms
,, ,,
two
rails require
Acetate of soda
shown at m on e, and then we can work the hollow, which is best done by working first the ends or across the grain, and afterwards the sides, or with the grain. Having fitted the legs into top, the cross-pieces, c and d, require cutting out, and mortising, and tenoning for
position
Sulphocyanide of
Hyposulphite of
And when
1
quite cold
above
5 grains
about
drachm
of distilled water.
has given
time
the rails
by
now
me such satisfaction that for some I have used no other, except for purPhoto. Review.
poses of experiment.
GIASS.
by the
glass
43
of
it
is
that, as
a general
rule,
BENNETT, BA. (Oxon). President of the Photographic Section of the Oxford Nat. Hist. Society, Ben. Sec. of the literary Photographic Club, etc.
substitution of paper for the glass
halation may be ignored when we are using paper as a support for the film instead of glass. For cloud effects, film negatives are to be preferred, as they can be printed from either side they are also an advantage, for the same
;
*jTTF,
of
has been
when we desire to use the negatives for photo-mechanical or carbon printing, and for Eastman's transferotype paper, which, if used
reason,
as an and looked upon as being the dream of the future, when no thoughts of broken negatives, heavy packages
received
by many
-workers
entirely
new and
original idea,
with a glass negative, requires to undergo the process known as " double printing," if the picture is to appear as in nature, and not
reversed,
side left.
i.e.,
requiring additional aid for their transportation, and boxes of unexposed plates, opened by the
ruthless hands of unscientific
officials,
For
all
;
be preferred
Custom House
to glass
but
many
astic
tourist
travelling in
camera.
of paper, by the disadvantages incidental to making the paper transparent, which is generally achieved by soaking it in oil or vaseline this, of
;
certain
amount
of
course, adds
an additional element of
difficulty,
then,
pack into a much smaller space for travelling; when developed, they can be packed tightly into boxes for storage, and several dozen will go into the place of half a dozen negatives on glass. Their unbreakableness is also an advantage, even at home, for sad misfortunes have occurred to careless operators who have let fall a box loaded with glass
negatives.
glass is not, however,
;
may not conduct itself in Moreover, it has practically been found impossible to entirely eradicate the grain of the paper, and therefore the plan
as the oil or vaseline
a proper manner.
wards
removing
the
film,
its
was
introduced.
drawbacks, since the film does not always leave the support with the readiness required and to damage a valuable negative in the last stage of its manipulation, is
Unfortunately, this also has
;
rather exasperating.
by
it
but
it
free
was given up. Great improvements have, however, been made in it of late years, and it has now come largely into use. One advantage possessed by paper over glass, from a purely technical point of view, is, that
paper
is not apt to suffer from "halation," which is the bane of all interior work. It has been debated by numerous authorities, what the cause of halation may be but whether it is due to reflection from the back of the glass,
;
ivory and celluloid and so many obstacles have been overcome by their use, that it seems not unlikely that at some future time we may have a celluloid, or other film, which will combine the advantages of the paper (which has its own commendable properties, chief of which is the fact that it can be used in a continuous roll, while celluloid cannot) and those of the transparent celluloid films. For the present, the best course to adopt is the use of plates when at home, and weight
the
already well-known
;
films
does not
much
signify,
when
travelling
abroad,
diffraction caused
air,
by "motes"
dispersion
of
floating in the
increased facility of porterage, etc., overcomes the additional work to be expended on them on
or unequal
the rays
from
returning home.
44
Paper and films alike can be developed just same way and as instructions have been given as to ordinary development in this magazine, it is unnecessary to occupy space by rein the
;
who
The makers
is
in
source
of
with
this
paper
is
under-
development.
If a glass negative
taken, and
capitulating
them.
The
has
metabisulphite
of
potash
developer
films.
been
mended for
Pyro
Solution.
Pyrogallic
distilled
make
15 ozs. of solution.
(restrainer).
;
Ammonium,
make
4
the negative
may be
distilled water, to
{accelerator).
Liquid
am-
Or, Potash and Soda Solution {accelerator). Carbonate of potash, 480 grains; carbonate of soda, 480 grains ferrocyanide of potash, 480
;
water before developing for two minutes, in order that the developer may flow evenly over
the surface at once on being inserted in the
develojsingbath.
grains;
solution.
distilled
water,
to
make
10
ozs
of
well to develop
bottom
if
the developer
poured
off;
and,
With this developer you can begin by diluting 1 drachm of pyro solution to measure 1 oz., and add i drachm of the soda and potash solution as accelerator or, if you prefer the ammonia solution, you can begin with 1 drachm of that.
;
therefore,
intervals,
to the light at
In
my own
with too
accelerator, and gradually add more till the whole picture is well out. The bromide solution will not be required,
little
pouring off the developer, the progress development can be easily watched. The developer given before, or any other, may be employed, and when developed the paper is passed through an alum bath, which should always be done, as this tends to prevent the film becoming blistered or frilling, and then fixed in
of
to the pint of water.
except in cases of over-exposure or, if you prefer to be cautious, you can add a few drops before beginning to develop, and increase the
;
in a clearing solution of
quantity
is
found
to
have been
alum (saturated solution), two parts, citric acid, one ounce. Then wash thoroughly in running water for several hours, and dry. The drying
has
to
The ferrous oxalate developer may be used to develop films, and the lately introduced hydroaccount of
suits them especially well, on tanning action on gelatine, which, of course, hardens the film to a certain extent, and renders it less liable to come to grief
quinone
also
its
on a glass plate covered with talc, or, which is best (as that is rather uncertain in its action),
collodion.
Take a
perfectly
little
and coat
Allow
afterwards.
solution:
Masticated
1
indiarubber,
it
brands
benzol,
ounce.
dry
and paper negatives will be of use, as most of them have more or fewer peculiarities of their own, which necessitate different treatment from other makes. Morgan and Kidd's Negative Paper. This being a sample of the original paper support, a de-
made
lated
as follows
spirit,
Pyroxylin, 6 grains
;
methy-
scription of
how
to
manipulate
it
will
be useful
When ether, \ ounce. \ ounce the collodion has set (which may be known by holding up the plate, when it should not drop from the corner), wash it thoroughly under a tap, until the natural repulsion which the surface
GIASS.
45
evenly on the
collodion.
Now
put the
removed by blotting-paper. "When dry the wax is, of course, hard, which adds to the firmuess
of the negative.
plate,
of cold water,
top of
and put the negative film on the the collodion under water lift out the
;
Oiled negatives are preserved by being stored between sheets of stearine paper, which any
it,
place on the
dry, blotting-paper,
and
rub a
dry,
roller
squeegee
it
all
leave
it till
when
pulled gently.
After
paper transparent, which is either with vaseline, vaseline The following is a good oil, or castor oil. Lay the negative down method of doing this on a clean sheet of paper, and go over it with a rag dipped in castor-oil. Then press it with a hot iron until it gets of an even dark colour all over. Plenty of oil should be used, so as If the iron is too to obtain an even surface. hot, it will dry the oil too much, and the rag will have to be applied again ; while if it is not hot enough, you will have to go on longer, and
of rendering the
done by oiling
it,
chemist will supply. If after a time the oil is found to have dried in places, leaving a patchy appearance, the negative can be entirely reoiled, which will put matters right again. As a certain amount of grain was found to appear with paper negatives, the next advance was to separate the film from the paper after development, thus avoiding the grain. The chief brand, which is formed after this manner,
is
Eastman's Stripping Film. These consist of an insoluble gelatine film attached to a temThey are developed and porary paper support fixed as Morgan and Kidd's paper is, the fixing bath being Hypo, 4 ouncees water, 16 ounces. "When fixed and well washed, the stripping proThis is managed by cess has to be carried out. squeegeeing the film, paper and all, on to col:
But when
of 200
it
may
still fail
the paper
is
the paper.
immersed in water
is
evenly distributed
oil
all
over
off
can be wiped
Fahrenheit, which causes the film to separate from the paper, and the latter gradually floats
off
if
and
the dish
to
is
rocked.
The
film
is
then
be printed from. Instead of using a hot iron, you can hold the
it
and ready
is
it
possible to
it
immerse
it
in the
oil,
and heat
until
sinks
and fills the on examining it, it will be found that the grain of the paper hardly shows at all, the film having the appearance of fine groundglass. No oil must be permitted to get on to
of expelling the air in the paper,
;
pores
so that
remove particles of paper and soluble gelatine, and is then washed in cold water and treated to the clearing bath of alum and citric acid, as mentioned before. After washing for two hours, the film has to be transferred to its final support, which consists of a special stripping skin, which is brought in contact with it under water, and squeegeed into
brushed gently
optical contact.
five hours,
off
It
is
If this happens, of
it
should
be
removed
by means
cloth
A
is
oil
or vaseline
from the glass, after trimming the edges with a sharp knife. It will be readily understood that all these additional processes form no inconsiderable
nearly always
drawback
piece of white
wax
is supported on a hot surface -say the top of a stove and the wax is melted evenly all over the paper
Lately, however, the celluloid and ivory films have been coming to the fore, and we are now offered a flexible celluloid film which has been
by means
of a hot iron.
Any
surplus
wax
J3
brought out by the ever energetic Eastman Company. Such a film will, no doubt, be taken
46
GLASS.
up warmly by amateurs,
be rolled up as tightly.
portability,
the
films
have
is
supposed by some to prevent " halation," but it a moot point whether or not it actually
does
so.
beau ideal of
rolls of
For those who desire Eastman roll-holders are the lightness compared with glass. The
this country.
first,
been introduced Of
or nearly
paper are inserted when as many as the have been exposed. As many as forty pictures can be taken on one roll
without
inserting
another
the
roll-holder
ing up the
roll
from one
roller
by windon to another.
Celluloid, or ivory films, however, can be exposed in the camera by means of a special holder to fit the dark slide, without any of the straining arrangements necessary when paper
is
Fry and Co. (now the Fry Manufacturing Company), 5, Chandos Street, Splendid results can be obtained Strand, W.C. on these films by expert manipulation. The ivory films for positives, made by the same Company, are among the most beautiful effects that photography is capable of making these
S.
;
made by
way to bromide
giving
paper,
the
hydroquinone
developer
film, of
used in this way. There are two kinds of which a description will serve for any
other.
The
first is
These films
are
manu-
in America, the support for the emulsion being a thin transparent description of
celluloid,
loid
Company.
more
strongly adhered to
is
tell
when
embossed in various shapes. Pictures printed on these give highly unique effects. His address is E. H. Fitch, 34, Angell Eoad, Brixton, S.W. Negative films can be exposed in an ordinary slide if a piece of thick cardboard is placed behind the film to support it in its place. If the film is to remain for long in the slide, dry the cardboard well before using. When the packet is opened, the films will be found packed face to face, with pieces of thin paper between them. With some films the shiny side is the film side, and with others the
matt
Fry's
side.
is
glass plates,
Carbutfs films are developed precisely as and give admirable results. They
For
Carbutfs.
to, to
The
accompany
pany, 106 and 108, Regent Street, W., who are sole agents any dealer can obtain them to order. I have used many of them, and find that the
;
avoid mistakes.
developing,
When
used,
a deep
dish should
be
to
manipulations are exactly the same as with glass, but the films take a somewhat longer time This is probably owing to the use of to fix.
a
little
The
more iodide
but
little
in the emulsion,
and
it
signifies
in actual work.
The difference between Carbutfs ivory films and glass, is only the difference between a
negative on a slightly matt surface and on a
glazed one. The ground surface of the celluloid makes but little difference in printing in fact,
;
the difference
it
an advantage.
It is
have a tendency to float, which can be Either soak the by this means. film for a few minutes in water before commencing to develop, or use a broad camel's-hair brush to sweep over the surface when first put In developing in, and thus avoid air-bubbles. a very large plate, if it is found to float to an objectionable extent, a broad band of tin-plate can be used to keep the film under the surface, by inserting it in the ends, which are turned up to admit it. When in the alum and hypo baths,
films
counteracted
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
the film can be gently pressed against the bottom
of the bath,
accord.
47
when
it -will
stay there of
its
own
it
one ounce of water. If left long enough in this, will be reduced right back to its original
density, so that
when
it
The
in
leaning position to
it
can be at once taken out, and the action stopped. The negative will look denser when
The former with care. however, preferable, as the film has a slight tendency to curl as it dries, which must be allowed for. When dry, it will be straight
a negative rack,
is,
method
wet than afterwards when dry, so that allowance must be made for this, and the film removed
when
it is still,
apparently, a
little
too dense.
again.
If the negative needs intensification, this can be performed as in the case of glass. The cyanide of silver and mercury intensifier is the best to use for films. It can be applied either before or after rendering the paper transparent, always taking care that, in the latter case, the
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By
THE EDITOR.
have
surface
from wax or oil, which would cause a repulsion of the aqueous solution and it would therefore leave spots unintensified, by not acting on the surface at those points. The following is the method of making this mercury and cyanide intensifier No. 1 Mercuric chloride, 1 00 grains bromide of potassium, 100 grains; water, 10
is
free
and so
on
my
table,
it,
where
it
confronts
me
Some
of
so far as I
;
signed to oblivion
am
much
First comes The Journal of Microscopy and Natural Science (Bailliere, Tindall, and Cox,
as I have space for.
King William
part of
Street, Strand,
the third
The number before me is the last volume, new series. Amongst much
contains the continuation of a useful
ounces.
interesting matter,
it
No.
2.
and
The Elements
J.
of Microscopy," by
Under the
title,
"A
10 ounces.
Homely Zoophyte-Trough,"
Have ready
this gently to
and add
No.
2,
few drops
still
is
remaining.
film in water for
it
Soak the
then place
in a bath of No.
Take out the film, and wash it for a quarter of an hour in running water. Then place it in a
bath of No. 2, till the bleaching is seen through the film to have given way to a blackening at
the back as well as the front.
at once,
Then take
it
out
not
It does
answer to leave the film for too long in No. 2, or the solution has a reverse effect, and begins
to reduce the density
is
and September, and monthly during the remainder of the year. It is devoted to the interests of the producer, importer, preserver, and merchant. The Amateur Writer. This is an unassuming little periodical, consisting of four leaves and a brown paper cover, and hailing from Chicago. The raison d'itre of this somewhat meagre publication is avowedly "to encourage inexperienced authors." The Editor makes one remark which "I freeze on to" (I trust this is a correct Chicago idiom), viz., "The advice we would proffer to all young authors is that they submit their articles to someone having greater experience and knowledge than they possess, and let them be corrected as to grammar and punctuation." I metaphorically shake hands with that The Optical Magic Lantern Journal and PhotoEditor. graphic Enlarger, a penny periodical, edited by J. Hay Taylor, and published at Dorset Works, Salisbury Square, London, E. O. A paper that should be in the hands of The everyone who has a lantern, or intends to get one.
reached.
solution of
Co., 24 and 26, Wilson Street, Finsbury, London, E.C.) still holds its own as the journal for fretThe Art Workman ( The Art Decorator Office, workers. 81, Fleet Street, London, E.C), price Is. 6d., publishes
and manufacturer.
48
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
octagonal in form
;
FIG. 2
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
two
bars,
front extremities
a wedge
by
which the bars A and B are kept tight in the head. The very appearance of
the tool will show that
it is
Tools.
simple to
K. (Bombay Presidency), prepare. Eig. 2 represents the head Allow me to communicate to scale in elevation, being one-third wr ; t es with you from a distant corner of the the natural size. This is made of a to BritiBh Empire, and to give you and close-grained piece of wood from 1 J octagon in the readers of Amateur Work an idea li inches thick, a regular the excellent form, measuring 4 inches along d d, the of what good work magazine is doing in remote places. middle line. Two square holes, A and Some of its monthly parts were first B, J inch wide, are mortised right shown me by a kind English friend, himself a skilled amateur carpenter, and I so liked them that I have been a subscriber of your magazine from its
commencement, and have also since that time commenced to dabble with
joiner's work.
if
-L
to hear that I
You will also be pleased have prepared a slightly modified electro-motor with the help of the valuable article on it at page
316, Vol. IV., of
FIC.l
Amateur Work.
cannot omit expressing my obligation for the many advantages I have derived The fact that a native Indian from.it.
FIG.
3.
FIG. 5.
Brahmin, a conservative class noted for their dislike for manual arts, has been converted into an amateur worker, however humble, speaks volumes for
is
the good work that the Amateur Work quietlv doing in distant parts of the
is
world, and
to you.
much
noticed by others,
and request you kindly at some time or other to find room for it and the sketches in " Amateurs in Council," if you think them of sufficient interest The Indian workfor your readers. man uses only a few simple tools, and the varied and complicated modern
I
most part unknown to him and yet he sometimes turns out work which is
;
FIG.
deservedly admired.
tools are
Some
to use.
of
these
FIG.
4-.
FIG. 2. HEAD OF GAUGE, ONE-THIRD FULL SIZE. FIG. 3. WOODEN STOCK, ONE-THIRD FULL SIZE. FIG. 4. TOP PART OF STOCK FITTING OVER C, FIG. 3, TO FORM SWIVEL. FIG. 5. BIT. FIG. 6. METHOD OF USING STOCK
I.
INDIAN
GAUGE.
AND
BITS.
One such
cleverly
through the head, exactly at right These holes are to receive the bars, and accurately described by angles to the surface, equidistant from which should therefore be J inch square Col. Branson, in Amateur Work, Vol. the centre on either side, and f inch and about 9 inches long, and fit tight I shall first describe the (trifle less) apart. V., page 481. They are so made in the holes. Then a wedge-shaped
that the upper side of a and the lower an ingeniously constructed side of B are, respectively, J inch above simple tool, and is shown in Fig. 1. D and below the central line, D x>', so that head, often square, sometimes they overlap each other by inch. is the
hole
is
mortised along
the
vertical
This
is
the top, and inch at the bottom thickness of the hole to be J inch.
26,
N.
SERIES.
JANUARY,
1891
F&rxcvj Goal-box.
By
Pedagogue
Pcrspect.ve
view
of
Coalbo*. complete
WARD, LOCK
&
CO.,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
This hole will evidently
Isides of the holes,
49
tion.
meet the inner 1 inch long. It is intended to serve as A and B. A wedge- a pivot, concealed in the hollow handle
fit
slight pressure
top (Pig. 4), which has a cor- left responding eavity scooped out on its in the opposite movement either rephat it projects J inch beyond the head inside. The lower part of the stock moves the pressure, or even slightly lifts piece on either side. Lastly, each bar (Fig. 3, B) is covered by a brass ferrule the tool up. This has the effect of lis furnished with a cutting steel point. in well-made tools, and is about % inch removing the wood which is cut, and [These bars are then inserted into the long and 1J inches thick. As this cor- keeps the hole clear. The superiority
Ipiece
(c C'),
[vertical hole,
is
the
at the
therefore exerts a on the handle with the hand when the bit is cutting, and
The operator
length
A is responds with the socket of the brace of this tool over other boring tools is The to receive the bits, it has got fixed in in the rapidity of its action, the workman at each movement of the bow I wedge, c, is then driven tight, and a its centre a tapering square brass socket, very convenient mortise gauge is ready s s', li inches long, and the lower square securing a number of rapid revolutions. mouth ^g inch wide. The lower face Let me not omit to mention here that I for use. In using the tool, when the bars are of the stock, thus furnished with the there are people who do not quite like to be adjusted to mark, say, the two ferrule and the central socket, is repre- this tool, and call it clumsy. But this
Iholes so that the cutting point of
Isides
of a mortise hole
of particular
sented at
F.
is
have only to loosen the The hollow handle at the top, which [wedge by knocking on its bottom, and corresponds with the pivoted disc of [to adjust the point of one bar to the the brace, is also turned in the form distance of one side of the mortise represented in section in Fig. 4, with a [from the edge of the wood, and then cavity hollowed out in its lower thicker [inverting the tool to set the other end to correspond with the top (Fig. 3,
| |
[width, you
anyone who sees a native carpenter working with this tool skilfully and
for
fail to
usefulness.
It
is
be convinced wonderful to
see with
from the same edge. When the adjust- being \ instead of inch long. what I have ment is over, the wedge is tightened by this handle they select wood with written this time, I may take another tap on the head. In marking the parallel straight fibres, so that when it occasion to describe some other native tools, equally simple and useful. is turned and ready, they split it up | wood, one side of the mortise is marked I by rubbing oue point in the usual way May I request you to be so good as lengthwise into two halves by a smart i against it, and, inverting the tool, the stroke of the chisel. The stock head to see if you could arrange to publish I other side is marked by the other points (c c', Fig. 3) is then inserted into the a series of practical articles on taking the wood. The cavity in the handle, and the two halves microscopic photographs for microI from the same edge of
I
workman
seemingly
(cutting
points
being
set
in opposite
is
are
joined
[directions,
in a
either of
them
;
used, as
two screws
stock
is
marking gauge, without any interand the tool can be used both as a marking and a mortise gauge conveniently. There is another native tool, simple, land yet very useful. I mean the Indian [drill (Samta), which I have not seen
ference from the other
[
Now
are
of
by one or scopic slides ? [Your letter is extremely interesting, and the drill and we shall be glad to hear from you complete. a feV words about the bits. again at any time. Ed.]
firmly together
a',
(a,
Fig, 4),
These, as
is
bits,
assorted
from
inch
Best
downwards.
them.
steel,
S.M.L. (Canada).
To recommend any
[much
land
noticed anywhere.
The
brace
bit is not
;
much
he mostly uses his own drill, | carpenter land very conveniently, too. It consists wooden stock and a steel bit. I of a [The stock is turned out of a .strong piece of wood. The dimensions are The bow, with which the stock is not always fixed; the vertical section turned, is made of a short, light, |oi one in ordinary use is represented slightly tapering stick, about 2 to 2J ale in Fig. 3, one-third natural feet long, and J inch diameter near the [eiz". It is 6f inches long, and 2 inches thick end. The string is so loose as to The middle give just two turns round the stock. I thick in the broadest part. [part, M, is 2 inches long, and 1J inches The manner of using the tool is It may be mentioned here shown in Fig. 6. [in diameter. The workman takes [that the tool is turned by a bow, and hold of the pivoted handle by the left the bow-string is coiled round this part. hand, and with the right moves the The bead of the stock consists of a bow, keeping the string tight with the Bhort stem, c', J inch long, and as much fingers. It may be observed that the k, supporting over it a conical knot, bits, being single cutting, the tool cuts C, 1J inches thick at the bottom, and wood only while turning in one direci
to the above, would only be to invite a and thin correspondence in our columns, seeing The thin end, being the that nearly every shutter user deems his at the other. cutting part, is ground to a point, and particular possession the best. The each side of thiV angle is ground a simplest to make, and, so far as my experience goes, a generally useful one, little. ,
one end, so as to
is
the
in
a suitable case or
by hand-pulling, or by the action of a spring. Place's shutter, on much the same principle, is good and cheap. It consists of two ebonite slides, attached to cords working over a roller, the pulling of a string raising one and lowering the other. It can be worked quickly enough for all ordinary instantaneous work. A. A. H.
VOL.
III.
(N.S.)
50
Pin Puzzle Box.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
(Fig.
1).
is
connected
with
the
"Retef" replies to " H.J.W.," p. 432. monster, G, which turns freely round a Box No. 1. Each piece is denoted peg, ii, driven through both sides of by the same letter in all the figures, box. The monster carries in its mouth and all wood except d (Fig. 4), and G the needle, l, which should not project Fig. 1 shows more than J inch. The piece, n (Fig. 4), (Fig. 1) is inch thick. box with one side removed A B c are is glued in its place, as shown in Figs.
"New
Subscriber.''
The Publishers
j
|
Tour supply a cover, price 2s. 2d. better plan would be to get one, as your bookbinder could certainly not copy it
from a mere verbal description.
cover for Vol. II.
ready.
(New
Series)
is
and
2.
When
K,
The] now ]
the
a
>/im//tol>)-i
5ez
:
a
7TOrr-
-,, ,,...
e
,
Oblong Netting.
the string,
pulls
up
pricks
the
thumb
L.
with
the
needle,
Figs. 1, 2, 3,
half full
size.
4 are The
be
ic
edges
bevelled,
should
made
book.
to look like a
H. M. B. ( Weymouth). Glad to hear you succeeded with the square netting but for a trammel net you would not require' to net a number of squares, and then join them together ; what you want is oblong netting. Commence as for square netting, and increase a stitch at the end of every row until there are two more stitches on the mesh than
you require for the width of the net, viz., line A B (see Fig. on page 526). Now decrease at the end of the next row, by taking two loops together. From this point to the end of the work increase a stitch at the end of one row, and decrease a stitch at the end of the next row, alternately and in order that there may be no mistake, it is well to mark the decreasing side with a piece of coloured cotton. The side on which
;
Box No. 2
FIG.!
is
shown
Fig. 5.
in
section
is
at
the hinge
Section the
ofD
is
v when
from y
;
thumb
is is
withdrawn
to
FIG.*
attached
the
spring,
x,
OF
B EIC.3.
which
is
rivetted at
6).
y,
to the front ol
a hollow cylinder, also attached to x, and the needle, s, the increase is made is the longest side passes through y and of the net, that is, on the line A c and a bole in x, and iswhen this side is as long as you desire
;
embedded
7).
two loops together end of every row, and finish off soldered to the parexactly as for square netting. As you tition, r, which sepaso quickly learned square netting, you rates the mechanism will have no difficulty with this. from the space, N, which mav be utilised Gilding.
the net to be, take
at the
in t (Fig.
is
rivetted or
as a
match-box,
is
A
the
to
hole
front
cut
(Fig.
in
6),
" 0. H." (Shepherd's Bush, W.).l know nothing of the method de-
it is probably on page 472 an American process, and likely only to thumb is pressed on answer in practised hands. For lasty, the piece, x, leaves ing qualities there is nothing equal to its notch, z, and the the usual process with oil gold size box can be opened and gold leaf. Amateurs are recom-
scribed
admit
y.
When
the
mended
to use
supe,
FIGSgrooves
(Fig. 2).
ported by t and
pierces
gold
size,
7d.
the
thumb.
It can be
^ inch deep.
The
The
on
sides
must
If I have
I
opposite sides
shall
shop,
79,
The firm
issue a
good catalogue of
pieces, A, c,
this
medium.
Retep.
gilding materials,
by by J, are glued into their grooves, Cyclostyle Ink. while B (Fig, 3) slides tightly in its " Gulielmus " asks groove. Fig. 2 shows end view towards " Could any of the parts x v (Fig. 1). In Fig. 3, Q is a your readers give me the materials and notch cut in the upper side of B, and F proportions for making an ink suitable " is a hole with a peg holding string, k for the cyclostyle ?
:
on request. what articles he wishes to regild, I cannot very well help any further. If articles on gilding are likely to be of any use to readers of Amateur Work, I shall be glad to write them. H. L. B.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
French
Polisliing.
51
large in diameter, for the screw to enter
well, and yet to hold. The whole should be fitted together French Polishing appeared in Tol. I. the advice of "W.D.," Vol. III., page before the glue is applied, and when (.First Series), page 248 also in Vol. 239, of Amateur Work, he has sent to II., page 510. You had better practise Mr. Sparrow. 6, Belitha Villas, Barns- satisfactory, hot glue copiously applied, on a piece of wood about a foot square. bury, London, N., for a set of micro- with prompt action on the part of the There are many preparations used ful- scope eastings, as there directed, but operator, in order to fix the whole before the glue has had time to set. filling the pores of the .wood before that his letter has been returned applying the polish but the usual one through the Dead Letter Office, and Any glued joint is much weakened by being disturbed or readjusted after is plaster of Paris made into a creamy asks if anyone can give him the address has set, which soon happens paste with water, and coloured by the or addresses of any other makers who the glue if the room is not warm. It is also addition of finely-ground will supply
"Eetep
"
warm the materials to be same shade as the wood to be polished. Should this catch the eye of " W. D.," better to By means of a coarse rag, rub this perhaps he may be able to give further united. B. A. Baxter. across the grain until the pores of the information on the subject. In the Plested's Patent Plane Iron, Chisel wood are completely filled, then care- meanwhile, "Retep" could examine a and Tool-sharpening Machine.
colour to the
fully
wipe
off
all
superfluous plaster.
When
fine
"A
'
microscope makers; he
sandpaper, and the work is ready tor the polishing process. It is well to
remember that French polish is neither more nor less than a thin skin of shellac laid on by friction, time being allowed
for the evaporation of the spirit during
"I enclose a sketch what he wants. As an alternative, I Plested's Tool Sharpener that I of would suggest that he communicate I can strongly lately. purchased with Mr. Lancaster, Colmore Bow, (5 Birmingham, who has repeatedly sup-
is
certain to find
ment" writes:
'
plied
me
if
with
similar
material.
think
"Retep"
states his
wants to
Uutil
them
supplied.
has bad time to harden, this skin is extremely tender, and therefore the
Ebony Walking-sticks.
"Retep."
polished.
and care must be taken not to let the rubber stick to any part. Hake a pad
of wool, moisten with polish,
The walking
off, is
stick of which
certainly
French
and cover
oil
the
pad with a
many
is
Sow
The wood
on the face of the rubber, then rub every part of the work to be polished with a circular motion not too quickly, but with a regular, gliding action.
;
the polish
If,
When
that
is,
an
is
oil
and proceed as before. Lay aside the work for a few hours, and then reuew the application. Repeat
this four or five times until
add more
of which
copal
he
durability
polish.
is
much
recommend
will find it
it
Even common gum-resins, when com- gap is made you have worked up a good surface, and then let bined with oil as a vehicle, are superior instead of, as many amateurs do, conit stand for a day or two. Finally, to harder gums dissolved in turpentine tinuing their work with the blunt tool, make a clean pad of wool, moisten with or spirit, because the gum-resina can they will remove the gap in a few methylated spirit, cover with two folds never become quite so brittle when in minutes with the greatest ease, leaving of linen rag, add one drop of oil, and company with an oil which forms of a good cutting edge. I fasten the toolrub quickly all over the work but press itself a tough and horny coating, fairly sharpener to my vice bench with a as lightly as possible. This last process, elastic and durable at ordinary tem- screw clamp." which is technically known as spiriting peratures whereas spirit which evapo[Messrs. Booth Brothers, Upper off, is rather a delicate one and at the rates entirely, leaves the gum to get Sttphen Street, Dublin, supply this fir=t attempt you will probably spoil quite bard and brittle. machine, price Ss. Gd.; postage, 6d. your work. French polishing, like any To mend a stick, of which the horn extra. Ed.] other kind of mechanical manipulation, handle is loose, requires glue, and a Compact Folding Chair. requires practice and patience. A rule screw having a thread turned through" Clericus Secundus " writes amongst French polishers is " Work out, or at both ends. It would be as "A well round the edges and into the well to slightly taper the horn end mistake, which deprives the sentence corners the middle will take care of and the wood end, and have a metal of its 'point,' occurs on page 493 itself." If you find any difficulty, write ferrule by way of mount. Be sure to second column, line 16, front of junc; ; ;
to your readers they very useful, and when a in a plane iron or chisel
;
'
again.
'
point of junction.'
'"
52
Adding Pedals to Harmonium.
"
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
to in the article.
is
Now and
then there
marine-glue, which
has stood the
is
a material that
time.
A New
Subsckibek."
know
quite
test of
Try
in
to
well the
at
charm
of being able
to play
avoid
unnecessary
moisture
your
where the flageolet. Beginners at all wind inOf course, for struments make them wet to a greater pedals for organ practice. Neverthe- amateurs who are blessed with plenty degree than is desirable. If you use less, the fact remains, that added of this world's goods, a separate planer oil to the interior of your instrument, but let, it be very little at each application. pedals to a harmonium are not very is all that could be desired satisfactory. I will briefly tell why, Amateur Work is not intended for B. A. Baxter. and then if you say write I will their sole benefit, to the exclusion of Enamel Paint. their less fortunate brethren. do so. E. E. G.Harter (Cheltenham). The article In the first place, the harmonium is TfiEBLA. in this Number, entitled " How to Use an expressive instrument the feet of a Enamel Paint," will probably help you Calico Diagrams. real harmonium player are educated " E.P.C." (Muswell Hill).These are out of your difficulty. I have used a feet, and with pedals he must either for lecturing purposes, and aim at good deal of Aspinall's Enamel in my entrust the blowing to a second person, broad effects rather than accurate own work, and the plan that I adopt, or he must blow with one foot an with invariable success, is to give the detail. I sized the calico twice with instrument intended to be blown with wood a preparatory coat of " knotting," patent size, and then used Aspinall's
home
and
this is
the church,
utility
of
both feet,
playing
while
by
enamels.
The
diagrams
come
out
applied thinly.
to get
Upon
this
I ean get a
attempt
notes,
outline,
porcelain-like surface.
Do not
which tax the capacity of the bellows, and enamelled surface. Drawbacks now reduced in feeding capacity. it is very difficult so to stretch the Then there is the knee difficulty. calico while sizing as that it 6hall not You are doubtless aware that in an crinkle here and there though this is organ the pedals are several inches not much noticed at a little distance. underneath the keys I mean measuring The double sizing makes the calico from the front. If you drop a plumb- somewhat stiff, and not so portable as line from the front of the manual keys, I could wish but it is even then far you will find that the sharps of the more portable than paper, and bears pedals are (from the player's stool) Is there any way of rouirh handling. beyond the plummet. preparing the calico to take " Aspinall," Now, in a harmonium, the player without making it so cardboard-like as cannot get his knees under the manual the size ?
; ;
and
finishing
use
"Vermilion"
and
"Hedge
Bookbinding.
" BjEtep."
To
is
back of a book
as
does
many think. The book must be -ewn properly, with just enough swellmgto help the sheets to come over without undue hammering. Tour diffiis
harmonium
is
built to
order
consequently,
are
S.
culty
is
evidently
due
to
want
of
advis-
experience,
practice.
and
will
disappear with
much under
or
a most tiring
playing.
Still,
must extend his arms in as a lining to the inside of camera manner, if he puts the bellows when made of leather, as the
addition of this material will not onlj
'
'
iive
Mending Cricket Materials. " Oan any reader me instructions in mending cricket
:
made pedals
for organ
the leather,
Now
is
the
time
for
doing
repaii>
for next season." :md pedals for a, piano assist in the retention of the folds. [I am open to receive a paper on this and the above A. A. H. subject from a practical man. Ed.] Crack in Flageolet. objections do not apply to the piano though, of course, a more sudden P. B. (Dalston). If the flageolet is BEIEF REPLIES. action is needed to elicit a note from quite free from grease or oil, ordinary will do well the piano. B. A. B. glue, Scotch for choice, has S. M. Lloyd." Old Hand " but if, as is most likely the case, the promised to let me have his paper on Lathe-Planer. Handy Substitute for wood has been oiled, then shellac or " Hand Cameras " at an early date. Buitannia Co. (Colchester). 1. The marine-glue will be the best. I notice "D. G. K." (Bombay Presidency). division plate may be kept from moving that the metal band will prevent extenhave arranged with a writer on my staff by a wedge of soft wood being placed sion of the crack if not, I should have for a paper on production of microbetween it and the bed of the lathe. advised a band for that purpose. The photographs. It would not require fixing very tightly, shellac can be used like sealing-wax, or as the motion of the planer is at right dissolved in spirit, making a thick varLETTERS RECEIVED UP TO NOV. 12. There is also a new cement sold nish. angles to the mandrel. Jas. Scott H. B. J. A. Bronchifor mending indiarubber tyres, etc., 2. The work is held in the slide rest, P. Bennett R. G-. J, which might be preferable to shellac, Electron as in Lukin's planer. 3 and 4 were anticipated and referred though probably not superior to Taylor R. K. Lighthouse.
(for
myself),
(for
an
organist),
53
box
a mandrel, and turn the outside of the stuffing the remainder of the barrel and the
;
file.
The
is
HIS pump
size for
height to centre of
pump
engine
a horizontal engine from \h inches to 2 inches bore for a larger the sizes should be proportionately
;
plate, should be the same as the engine shaft from the bed-plate.
is cast
increased.
Fig.
1 is
The pump
pipe
to
be
f ic
.1-
Sideseclion of
Pump
The castings are of brass, and are seven iu number, viz., working barrel, gland, valve box, back cover, cover for top valve, and two valves. The working barrel will be easier to bore if cast solid. The valve box is cored out and the Valves should have a piece, not less than 1 inch long, cast on the top end, to fix the carrier on
;
F C 3
I
Plan View of
;
Pump
it must be faced level on both and holes drilled at the top and bottom for the two valves. The valves must be turned
screwed into
sides,
till
they
fit
of the
made
is
working barrel
filed or
is
45
fine
box this should be turned true, and then fixed in a fourto a face-plate, with the
down
quite air-tight,
left
bored by fixing a drill against the loose headstock, and holding it with a screw wrench while
the barrel is revolved. The stuffing box should be bored first, and the barrel afterwards, in order to keep them true then fix the barrel on
;
on till tbey can then be cut off. The holes for the valves should be slightly countersunk on the top, before grinding the valves
in.
box
is
faced
level,
fixed to
screws.
Vol. HI.
(New
54
The cover for the top valve is bored as shown, and tapped for the delivery pipe it can he finished in the lathe, and is fixed by four screws
;
AN AMATEUR.
teaches
The gland for the working barrel must be bored the same size, and the outside must he turned it is fixed by three screws to the flange
;
XPEEIENCE
it
fools!"
;
So
but
on
stuffing box.
it
teaches
The ram is made of wrought iron or steel, and must be turned an exact fit for the working barrel the end is filed down as shown, to fit the double end of the rod for workiug it a hole is drilled in it, and the two are fixed together by a pin and cotter.
; ;
them
as such.
The
of
own
may he found
is
some value
to others
who have
pedestal,
Holes are drilled in the bed-plate of the hy -which it is screwed to the engine
bed-plate
by small
bolts.
In order to prevent
the valves being lifted too high, a piece of strong brass wire should he fixed across the
valve
box
grooves
The house consisted of two rooms, kitchen, and lobhy and as the bedroom was the simplest Both it and to begin with, I commenced in it. the parlour I wanted covered with a carpet of such a size as to leave a margin round of oak plank wax-cloth, imitating an oak border. This
;
The joints of the two covers of valve hox, and the cover for top valve, must he made with red and white lead mixed to a paste, and the the stuffing hox must joint screwed up tight be packed with soft cotton, oiled, and screwed up tight. A length of brass pipe must be
;
I consider a
much
that
it
thinking
is
more
easily lifted to
way
and bottom
it
of the valve
will
pump
water,
be seen to any advantage, for the furniture ranged round the walls does not then completely cover up the carpet border. An important
fact, too, in this
method
of leaving a
margin
is
and the joints are all tight. A little water may be poured down the delivery pipe, if the pump does not start well at first, which will set it going. The stroke should not be more than one inch, unless the barrel is made longer than
the drawing.
than
otherwise
with too
ticular
many "yellow
attention
to
and those of us who are not burdened boys," must pay parthe
cash aspect of
the
cost
question.
from
yard,
2s.
my parlour
;
the difference
exposed to
pint alcohol
mix with
best lampblack.
to withstand the action used in developing and toning photos, use a quick-drying asphalt varnish, as
of
to about 28s. so when a better artistic produced with less expenditure of hard cash, though with perhaps a little extra trouble, there is no reason whatever why everyone should not adopt this plan. As I have already said, I started in the bedroom. The carpet chosen was a seamless one one of those art squares which are so well known now under various names in .different parts of the country such as "Windsor," "Kidder-
amounted
effect is
55
They
in
which
is
always a nuisance.
An
allowance
had
in various qualities,
of design,
and
an
of
1
should be
immense variety
and
after all
was
finished I found I
had
to
put
up with
varied
down a
pieces.
may be
by
my bed8 feet, so
15 feet
and tack the edges of both Such a thing is so objectionable, that I should certainly never lay a margin again without making certain that the door opening was
little strip,
of 12 inches,
and
at
provided
thing
for.
all ready,
the next
than
formed
all
round.
lay them.
window.
got
it
By
rolling
The
size of
placed close
dimensions.
it
was then a simple matter to squeeze it into the corner and along the bevelled side of the window.
room,
will
A sharp
crease so made,
and the
stuff
it
then
lies as
skown
Press
respectively.
The length
and
of
room
in
of each length. This is necessary border to be mitred at the corners, as oak planks ought to be but I may here say that if an ordinary pattern of wax-cloth be used
to enable the
;
two pieces
corners
cient.
Another point about the mitreing is this the two adjoining pieces are not of the same breadth, the mitre should not go from
that
when
mitre angle,
that
of
45,
starting
from the
innermost corner, or that next the carpet, as shown in. Fig. 1 In one of the walls the fire.
place occurs,
at
formed by the floor again cut it along the crease, as shown by dotted line in same Fig., and you have the whole corner lying quite flat. This I found to be the best and easiest way of shaping the wax-cloth for these corners but for the sake of showing how it may be otherwise performed, I may mention some of First, then, I tried taking the methods I tried. a paper template of the corner pressing a smooth sheet of brown paper into the corners, and cutting it out, then applying it to the place to see if it fitted accurately, and then laying it on the wax-cloth, and cutting it out exactly as Another way was to measure with to pattern. a rule all the different points and sizes from corner to corner, and mark them off with chalk on the wax-cloth, and then cut out. Either of these methods could be employed when the waxcloth was thick and rather stiff to press into the corners itself and of the two methods, the paper-shape one is the least likely to cause a mistake in the cutting.
;
In
my room
all
the one end of the room, so I decided to carry the margin right into
piece to
fill
instead of adding a
space, as is often
in the
window
a little thing I quite overlooked, and which has resulted in an extra join,
is
done.
Then here
The corners are yet to mitre. To do this, lay one of the side pieces in its place, and overlapping the piece already laid at the corner. With a sharp knife cut the diagonal line through both thicknesses of wax-cloth, then lift the two odd bits thus formed, and the mitre will be found to be
exactly correct, and as neat as
it is
possible for
56
it
soft
woollen stuff
it
is
It is best,
however, to have
is
all
although
is
Cedar
felt is
brown
that
is
absolutely necessary.
all
When
everything
arranged
round the four sides then be all cut anything going wrong. A
but these are naturally harder to the touch, and do not act in the same kindly way to
paper
;
may
few common carpet tacks, or ordinary cut tacks, should be put in all round the room, close to
-\
FIC. 2.
FIC. 3.
the carpet.
underneath a carpet,
length of time that
it
FIC.
I.
thing.
LL
Door
"5
-J
J
1
^
1
_7
t.
<->
fic.
1
a-
c -
~s
U
the skirting-board, to keep all in position across the door opening the tacks should be nailed
;
A
The next
12 feet 3
floor I
n.
turned
firmly
carpet
down at about every 6 inches apart. The is then laid down with brass-headed
it
my attention to was was about 15 feet long by inches wide, and I wanted a margin of
well stretched,
will
be
flat
on the
floor.
Frequently
the hearth-
the
rug,
hearth
projects so
much
when placed
up
A layer
of carpet
if
felt,
laid
and
at the
about 15 or 18 inches
carpet
is
all
is
round
it.
Brussels
made
of
what
called
f width, or 27
HIXTS
OJV
57
inches, and the border is usually 1 8 inches wide. In order to have as little waste as possible, I
should be
made
to look larger
;
if
made up the exact size; this a margin of 15 inches on each side, and as
the wax-cloth requires to be 3 inches wider than the actual space shown, an 18-inch piece was
required.
was what should be attempted so I concluded that I was most likely to attain this end by using a small pattern of linoleum, and laying it from wall to wall. As there were seven doors entering off the lobby, and I wanted the floor covering all in one piece, I had to allow 6
inches extra on each of the sides all round.
Fig. 4 I
room
The margin at the other sides of the made the same breadth but the window
;
opening being on one of these two sides, it required a length 30 inches wide in place of 18 inches, so that there would not be any join at
the
to
In show a plan of the lobby to the same scale as Fig. 1 As I have already stated, the lobby measures 10 feet by 7 feet, and to allow for the doors I got the stuff 11 feet by 8 feet.
.
In laying
the
floor,
it,
I decided
it
to put
it
down on
window piece. The portions cut out are sure come in useful for something or other, as, for
Then,
and cut
on the other piece I had to mate allowance for it to go underneath two doors, so I had it 21
inches broad.
position, I
recess,
into the
window
Of course, another plan would be to cut it all out to the figured measurements of the lobby but as already mentioned, regarding the waxcloth surrounds or margins in the bedroom, there is some difficulty in doing this correctly, and without any mistakes so I think the best
and to go under the doors, and cut out the piece where the hearth occurs, cut the mitres as before, and fastened all the pieces in position with
plan
as
is
The bordered Brussels carpet was diffiit required a great amount of pulling and nailing down, and lifting and nailing
tacks.
cult to lay
;
and fit it. was impossible to get it to roll out on the floor in any but a diagonal manner, I curled it up from the one corner, as in Fig. 5, and pushed it into the outer door, cutting it exactly you
As
it
all
Brass carpet studs, about 9 inches apart round the edge, improve the appearance greatly and the cut tacks should be only partly
again.
;
fit
After
is
is finished,
driven in
all
when stretching the carpet, and be taken out again after the brass studs are
is this
spread out, and each part cut as required if possible, it is best to put the linoleum underneath the skirting-board and the blocks of the
architraves,
for
inserted.
neater
result
is
thereby
attained at the
minimum
of labour.
it,
it
is
certainly
much neater appearance is obtained thereby, as well as at the same time being very much more expeditiously laid, if
skirting-board, as a
make
have variety.
floor, in
;
had
to lay
it
diagonally on
the
the same
way
covering
was
Then the blocks to the door architraves are sometimes clear of the floor, in which case by putting
the wax-cloth underneath, the best results are obtained, and least time spent in execution.
correspondingly heavier, and not nearly so easily managed. As the kitchen was pretty square
i.e.,
it
recess
difficulty in
was that of the lobby. Its size is about 10 feet long by 7 feet wide. I thought, first of all, of having a plain centre and a border all round but on consideration I was afraid such a treatment would
floor to receive attention
;
The next
linoleum.
it
One thing I had to do, however, after was laid, and that was to put a piece about
Strictly speaking, all the
;
under
tend to
make
it
was,
sake I omitted to do
so,
58
to do
front of the
all. The curt am along the bed hanging in folds left the floor exposed here and there, so that, to remedy the
partly after
Now,
it
would be
if
of
work
to decorate
the
should be taken a
in other
few-
The
ways
for
instance,
and then, you know, some parts wear more than others, and require to be
or closets
he did so he would probably produce effects anything but satisfactory to a critical beholder but anyone who is an amateur photographer can do a good deal in that way without having much knowledge of art principles, though of course the more he has, the more
;
satisfactory his
work
is likely to be.
I propose,
renewed.
Though not
the
only benefit
one
therefore, to
as to
how
to
is an important one in its way, and may save expense again. It is this saving of expense that is such an important factor in human happiness where incomes are not as large as they are wanted to be for, as has been said, if on an income of 20s. per week you spend 19s. 6d., you may be quite happy; but if on the same income you spend 20s. 6d. per week, the result is misery. Better save, then, when and where you can for instance, in doing a little piece of work such as has been described here, instead of paying someone else to do it.
; ;
windows,
etc.
and the fluency with which ideas suggest themselves to him. Before we begin to think what we can do in this line, we must go to our stock of negatives, and pick out those which will be likely to give It is of no use to exhibit the best results. unsatisfactory results in as open a manner as possible, and therefore if the worker is to be proud of his work, he must have good negatives
with which to produce
it.
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
By
R. A. R.
There are many processes by which exceedingly good effects may be obtained, to add variety to the prints contained in our albums but, first of all, we will see what can be done by
the use of ordinary silver prints. The process of cementing photos to the back of glass plates
BENNETT,
Section,
has
generally go
I. Selection of Negatives Opalines for Ornamenting a Table A Chess - board Door-panels Transparencies and their Production Method of Mounting.
my reader wishes to
made
for the
]HE
purpose, from Messrs. Percy Lund and Co., St. John's Street, Bradford, Torks, who were, I
believe, the first to introduce them.
in which
we
live,
is
a department of
The
bevel-
architectural
house decorator few amateurs having sufficient experience or But skill to attempt it on their own account. without aspiring to decoration on a large scale, there are several minor details in which the amateur may supplement the work of the professional, and give additional beauty to various parts of his house this work having the special advantage that the results thereof can always be exhibited to admiring friends as his own handiwork, and thus gain the meed of praise which is the result of his toil.
to the painter or professional
;
edged glasses with spring frames and supports, sold in the fancy shops, will also answer well, This way of mounting and are very cheap. photographic prints adds much to their depth
It in
is
accomplished
"optical contact"
the
glass,
of gelatine.
When
the gelatine
is
dissolved,
through
glass or
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
which are required, the size
;
59
Fahrenheit.
It
two
of
of the square
lamp underneath, or portions may get burnt, which would spoil the solution. See that the
glasses
glasses
they are then stuck on over the black squares (leaving the white squares plain), and given several coats of varnish
to protect them.
are
thoroughly
first
clean.
to
Have
it
the
of the
your hand,
into
chess or draughts
to
men
and,
taking the
put
the
prints, for
gelatine with the right hand, and take a glass in the left; as soon as the print is tho-
made with
opalines, as
lift it
out,
photos being squeegeed on to a sheet of glass the right size for a chess-board, and afterwards
downwards on the glass, and it to remove all superfluous gelatine between it and the glass. If the print
face
is
a very soft one, use a rubber cloth between it and the squeegee; when the gelatine is perfectly dry the print can easily be trimmed with
a sharp knife to the exact size of the glass on
backed with light paper to show through the white squares, and mounted on a square wooden table, gives a better effect, and is more lasting. A very large number of objects may be
decorated in the same
top of an ordinary door
way
may be
treated thus,
by
inserting opalines, or ordinary prints well varnished, into a frame in the panel.
which it is mounted. If only a few prints are to be mounted, it sometimes saves trouble to immerse glass and all in the gelatine, and take print and glass out together. This is less likely
to cause air-bubbles,
This can be
extended
effect is
all
down
the panel,
if
very good.
doing
this.
A
that
and one
of adaptations, is
making photographic
Transparencies can be
it
transparencies,
Now
the
application
process
supposing we have an ordinary circular table of plain wood, and wish to ornament the top of it, we can cut several pieces of glass with a diamond
to the
made on ordinary
is
a very good
old
plates,
shape of Fig.
together
will obviously
form a
circle,
Behind these pieces of glass are mounted views, portraits, etc., in the manner just described, and the prints trimmed to the
the table.
unfit for producing negatives, being subjected to damp, etc. Much better results are, however, obtained by using plates specially sensitized with emulsion suitable Plates thus coated with for lantern slides.
when
owing
to
When
is
Messrs. P.
W. Thomas
sell
if
well managed,
Mall, S.W.,
who
them
at
extremely good.
With
be
or
if
cut triangular
these
really beautiful
results
can
easily
When
obtained.
sists
The method
the glasses are fastened on, a circular rim of wood or metal can be fixed on, to hide the edges of the
glass.
to the
all
when finished. This same idea is applicable to manner of objects; for example, the flat
flame of a candle or gas lamp for a number of seconds corresponding to the density of the
negative and
trials will
its
A few
wooden ornamental tea-trays, sold in the shops, may have their bottoms covered with opalines. In a paper by Mr. W. E. Woodbury, in the Amateur Photographer, I have seen a description of
a chess-board
soon show the best method of working, and any little error in exposing can be made up by skilful manipulation in development. Of
course the plate
light,
is
by ruby
It
prints, thirty-
60
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
my
hands, though some people consider
It is
is
by the
ferrous oxalate or
well in
it
hydroquinone developer, as these give quite black tones, and not yellow, as given by the
pyrogallic acid developer.
very strong.
The former
is
made
sodium
sul-
by mixing
phate of iron
a solution containing as
much
hot will
take up on
being
left to
get
cold).
made by putting
For use mix equal parts. If the picture is over-exposed, you can add a few drops of saturated solution of potassium bromide, to keep
fic.
3.
FIG.
FIG. 3. DOOR ORNAMENTED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS. FIG. 4. SECTIONAL I. SHAPE OF OPALINE FOR COVERING TABLE. DRAWING OF TRANSPARENCY MOUNTED ON STAND THE SHADED PORTION REPRESENTS THE SUPPORT OF FRETWORK CONTAINING TRANSPARENCY FRAME CARVING A, B, WOOD BOTTOM COVERED WITH WHITE PAPER. OR
;
;
into a
pint
bottle,
and
of
filling
up with hot
water,
and 5 parts
is
saturated solution of
in a similar manner.
;
oxalate of potash,
made
strong, dilute
If found owing to the solution being too the mixed developer with half its
never the added to the potash reverse a precaution of which the experimenter will not need to be told the reason if he tries it once the other way, as a thick yellow precipitate is the result. The developer is well known,
iron
The
volume, or an equal quantity of water. This last is desirable in hot weather. With this developer you need not use the alum bath, as
the hydroquinone has a tanning action on the
gelatine,
and
so prevents frilling.
The usual
and
use.
it is
hardly necessary to give details of its The hydroquinone developer is, however,
and developed, the result be a transparency in which every grade of tone is represented, from an engraving black
If properly exposed
to
ought
61
and.
no details of the
is
the result.
This beats
all
negative unrepresented.
Now, how
the trans-
in the market,
be utilised in our work of decoration ? It may be simply inserted in a frame (which can be procured from most dealers), and thus hung in a window. But there are many other uses in which it will look far more ornamental; for example, suppose we have a
to
own handiwork.
is good at enlarging, he can produce one large transparency the size of the window to be covered this is done by using an old negative glass, with some white paper pasted over it on which to focus the enlargement. The
;
FIG. 2.
windowjwith a very ugly look-out, possibly into a stable yard with heaps of straw, and refuse of
various
be
if
allowed
for
focussing,
and
therefore,
perhaps a good view of chimney tops vanishing away in the far distance. "Well, we can get rid of these objectionable
or
sights
kinds,
focussed on paper,
when
The
parencies.
inside
by covering over the window with transA framework can be inserted on the of the sash dividing up the window into
enlargement
right
would be out of focus. the same size as the and thus allows of just the
is of
amount of the picture being got into the plate. "When all is ready, the plate is substituted
partitions the size of the transparencies to be used, and the glasses are then inserted in their
proper places
a most ornamental
window being
which focussing has been peris made as with paper. If the negative is sharply focussed, and bears
for the glass on
62
HOW
enlargement well, the result will be one which will simply rivet the attention of beholders. Those of my readers who may have an opportunity of visiting the " Camera Club " buildings,
some enormous transparencies in the windows, which are one of the greatest attractions to visitors they certainly were to myself, and I imagine they have not been removed. One frequently gets too clear shadows with
will find
;
be used, but for lines I incline in favour of them a line of brown at all, combined in this way the outside edge, merging into a light line of blue, and pointed at the inside edge of the
:
this
by a hair-line of black. Of course work is very delicate and troublesome, but it must be remembered, what I have already pointed out, that make-up is a work of art. To
wrinkles
lantern-plate transparencies,
and
if this
occurs
is
one
own
effect
to apply the
same colours
practice,
artist
it is
artistically, is quite
another thing,
;
may show
utilised
through, and
mar the
effect
but
if
productive of quite
other
effects
astonishing in
how
little
effects.
ing lines,
cut
from a thin
wood a
and a
piece a
little
;
a generally accepted rule that straight ones are unnatural they should, moreover, always be as broken as possible, and not
is
;
continuous.
little
Between
lines
it is
;
larger each
fasten
way
now make
in this,
by side supports at such an angle to the board, which is to form the base, that when
this is covered with white paper, the light will
grey must be used, with the cheek-bones whitened. To give the appearance of sorrow or weeping, the brown-grey must be applied also
be
it
reflected
off to advantage.
By making
by means
may be
under the eyebrows and on the eyelids, or carmine may be applied to the latter for excessive weeping. Another use of white is to produce a Roman nose by drawing a thick line
with
nose.
if
it
formed.
made
downwards upon the bridge of a straight The eyelashes will add much to the effect
;
admired by
that the
HOW
VII.
and this may be so skilfully done, shadow thrown by them upon grey eyes, may cause them (the eyes) to look dark or the lashes may be lightened in colour, and so
darkened
make dark
they
possible
expression or shape of
eyes look less dark. Eyelashes may be darkened by simply painting them with mascaro or water cosmetique, or with a little melted black grease paint. Both these preparations are applied with a small brush, similar Such brushes are in shape to a tooth-brush.
sold by Mr. C. H. Fox, of Russell Street, W.C. The upper lashes may be darkened, and a dark brown line painted under the lower ones to represent them, instead of colouring them. The
the features,
it
is
broaden
those
Shadings of different colours, sometimes black-grey, sometimes bluegrey, sometimes brown-grey, give the appearance of hollows, dimples, and wrinkles. There
apparently lengthen
it.
upper lid may be shaded with blue or a dark brown, immediately above the lashes and the same may be done with the under one, so that the lashes themselves are not touched. In some
;
cases,
is
required to be exceedingly
63
may be
a red
line
with
crimson
AN ORGAN BUILDER.
Wood Kinds and Quantities Ground FrameBuilding Frame and Key Bench.
|T
possible
no
dry,
matter
it.
how
It
small,
as
one
can
manage
to get
must be well seasoned, and also because some of the most important details
If the timber is not perfectly
it, it
liquid preparation,
known
as Blanc-de-perles.
dry, or
of
would be
AMATEUR WORK
use trying to
make
PRIZE SCHEME.
This month I offer the following prizes for
competition
IT.
:
man may be well skilled in all the branches of the trade, but he could turn out no good work
unless he
material.
for the best written for Rooms (such as fittings for recesses, etc.) suitable for construction by Amateurs. It is desirable that the paper should be accompanied by drawings, which need not of necessity be highly finished, and which should be separate from the IIS. The Publishers reserve the right to publish any article sent in. for the best Lantern-slide from competitor's own negative. The slides, of which not more than three should be sent, must be labelled with the name and address of the competitor. Each competitor must supply the following particulars, viz. (1) If produced by means of the camera or by contact printing. (2) The kind of plate used. (3) Particulars of development. Size of slide 3J by 3J.
:
The bellows, sound-board, and pipes made of best pine mahogany or oak
;
be be
used in the key action (the former is preferable, as the acid contained in the oak often tends
to rust the centres
nections work,
more
the
wood
is
new, or
if
T.
make
swell
shall
be 8
feet
of
width
a short end of
;
RULES.
(1).
(2).
All articles sent in for competition must be the work and by an amateur is meant of bond fide amateurs a workman who does not earn money by the particular class of work in which he competes. MS. must be written on one side only of the paper, and drawings must be on separate paper. Each sheet of MS. or drawings to have the name and address of the competitor clearly written on the
;
(3).
back. All articles in this competition must be sent in not later than January 28th, carriage paid, and addressed
1 J-inch mahogany, and the same in birch one board of f-inch mahogany, any length over 8 This length will be sufficient if the board feet. can be procured 2 feet wide. This is not a great width for mahogany. One board, 10 feet long or over, of mahogany $ inch thick the wider the better; two boards of 1 inch birch or oak, any length, and a short f-inch birch board three boards, not less than 1 feet long,
of
inch,
and
five
J-inch best
pitch
pine;
Each
Salisbcry Square, London, E.C. article must bear the name and address of the
competitor, and the
of best pine:
One
number
which he enters.
(5).
The
two 1^-inch boards, one deal cut into two 1 J and inch boards
64
one deal cut into 1-inch boards, or, as usually called, J-inch stuff one cut into f -inch hoards two deals with 5 cut, and two with 6 cut.
;
;
well-seasoned
of the organ
The
feet long,
and
3 inches thick.
it
The above
for
but to do so
is
m
-T
no.*.
Cround Frame for the Organ
Scale
ir,
^=
I
foot
7L
muz
yof the case
this
must be
of
fixed
to
something,
and pieces
preference
to
framing have
ground to be
made
something
the case
is
and while
being proit is very
to
much waste
other hand,
but, on th e
if
the
long
vided
little
for,
more knots and shakes, by all means get the short wood. The quantity just mentioned gives an appropriate idea of what will be used, but it is more than likely that out of this quantity there If this does happen to will be some to spare. be the case, it were better so, because timber comes cheaper, as a general rule, when bought by the deal, than, though it were bought by the separate board. It would be almost impossible to give the precise measurement of wood required
deals contain
to
more trouble
make
of the
An
is
like Fig. 4,
put together, in case of removal, with far greater facility than one which does not possess In the latter case, such a thing to work to. there is the bother of trying every separate piece to see if it is level and square, while in
the former instance, mortises
rails
;
are cut in
the
make even the smallest organ. With a moderate set of tools, and a good
and, when once which must be there the frame is square, the tenons, cut on the ends of the stiles of the organ frame and case work,
65
at once.
drawing is essential, and all measurements must be strictly accurate. All the ground frame will be made of 1-inch
careful study of the
stuff.
rails will
The other end of these short be halved into rail a, dovetail fashion, and fastened from the top with a f-inch screw.
into the inside.
Two
rail
pieces
2 feet
wide, will
get
make
;
rails f f,
First
two
rails
;
at
on the
These
out a
of
mortises 3i inches long, i inch wide, inch from the outside edges, and 4 inches from each
shoulder. These pieces will represent a a, Fig. 4.
dimensions are
ments.
all
piece of framing
knows
making
Now
0-J-
inches long, 3
it
the piece
is
not
made
or
width
to start with.
and the same length on one end, and in the inside edge 6 inches from the back, and 6 inches from the shoulder already there, make a mortise 3 inches long and 2 inches deep. The tenons on the end of rails, a a, will fit into these mortises. The rails, c c, will be 15 inches long, 3 inches wide, with mortises cut on the inside ends of each the outside ones will be 2 inches wide, and the inside 1 inches both of them will be 2 inches deep. The tenons on the end
;
When
and 2 inches from the front, and from the end of the inside end. If the
3,
case
is
b b will have a
-J-
the back, and 2 inches from the outside edge. The square marks, m m m, in Fig. 4, are these
holes,
of rails, b b, will
fit
h
3
is
rails,
dd,
long,
inches wide,
66
long,
exactly the
it
middle.
that
will
come
flush top
end of the blowing post, afterwards described. The shoe, as this piece is termed, will be fastened to rail a with two good strong screws through the edge. This constitutes the ground
frame.
Cut a piece 17 inches long, 2 inches wide, out of the top edge of the top front rail e, at 1 foot
4f inches from the left-hand end.
Now
screw
good substantial building frame. Fig. 5 is a sketch of this frame finished it consists of front and back pieces screwed to two ends. All the stiles and rails, with the exception of the front and back top rails, should be cut, three that is, they should out of a 1^-inch board finish not less than 3J inches wide the two exceptions will be 5 inches wide. The end pieces will be made as follows the stiles, D d d d, will be 4 feet 8 inches long, with a tenon 2 inches long, 2J inches wide, cut on the top
;
frame will appear exactly as shown in Fig. 5. Put the building frame into its proper position in the ground frame, and leave it for the present. The measurements for the ground frame just given, and Fig. 4, are for the organ
shown
Figs.
1
in Fig. 3.
in
end.
Two
will
rails, 2 feet 7
wide,
stiles
be
this
mortised
12 inches
;
9 inches
the
rails.
A rail
be 2\ inches, and b\ inches wider at each end respectively. The dotted lines in Fig. 5 represent what is termed the key bench this is the next thing to be made. Get two rails \\ inches thick, 4 feet \\ inches long, 8| inches wide, and mortise them into a rail 8 inches wide, the same thickness, 4 feet long, so that between the rails there will be a space exactly 2 feet 6f inches wide. Glue and wedge the three pieces together, and, when dry and cleaned off, fasten down to the front and back top rails of the frame
will
;
and 2
Fig.
5,
will
have two
1
with
three
screws
in
each
place.
When
front and back end, which on to the tenons cut on the end of the stiles. When the end is glued and wedged together, it should measure 2 feet 7 inches wide, and the top of the a b and c rails will be 4 feet 9 inches, 2 feet 9 inches, and 12 inches, respectively, from the ground. The front and back have stiles 2 feet 9 inches long, ?>\ inches wide, with rails mortised right through them, 1 2 inches from the bottom, and the top
fit
7 inches from the outside edges of the front stiles G g, and the front edge of l will stand away from the top front rail e, 1 foot
and back
3J inches.
One might be
there
is
nothing
very
interesting
in
organ
edge of the top rails will be flush with the top end of the stile. The top rails e e will be 5 inches wide and 5 feet Z\ inches long, and f f will be the same length, but 3 J inches wide. The outside measurement of the front and back will be 5 feet 3f inches long, and 2 feet 9 inches from the ground. On the bottom ends of g g cut a tenon |- inch long, \ inch thick, and Z\ inch wide, f inch from the front, to fit in k k k k, Fig. 4. Cut out If inch by \ inch long, from the outside edges of d d d d, to allow for the width of the ground frame rails. Screw a piece of 1-inch stuff on the ineides of
make what I have endeavoured but the most monotonous part of the work is finished when the frames are made, and in the next chapter we begin some very interesting work.
required to
to describe
;
Whitewash
ettb
off.
To
\ bushel best lime, slaked with boiling water, add 8 quarts salt previously dissolved in hot
water, \ pound whiting, 2\ pounds ground rice boiled to a thin paste, 1 pound clean white glue
dissolved
and
boiled.
HOW
TO
TO
IT.
5 will
67
HOW
IT.
5.
glance at Fig.
explain
strap
;
FOlt
OUTFIT FOE
II.
The PlinthA Case for the Lantern Lining the Body The Lenses.
]HE
next part
we have
to think about is
body
say
2 inches behind and 4 inches in front, with 1 the top about \ inch thick, and
;
and bottom of left-hand door a good strong lock and two good handles to carry it by. Paint it black on the outside, and white on the inside with Aspinall's enamel ; and, lastly, letter it on the top with the caution " This side up." Having very nearly finished the woodwork, we must commence with the metal portion and perhaps the best part to start with will be the lining of the body with metal, to keep the heat from the woodwork and one of the best things to do it with is tin. You can get sheets at most oilshops or any ironmonger for about 2Jd. each.
hinges are the best
;
little
bolt top
These are the the sides and ends of inch. usual dimensions. It can be left to your own fancy, but you must not forget that the larger
it is
the better.
you cut oblong holes in the sides and ends, it will be found very handy for carrying about. There is no bottom required to the plinth, only a top, for which we require a piece 18 by 4 inches of i inch wood, and 5 feet of f inch, 4
If
Commence by cutting pieces to fit inside the body and doors secure it about f inch from the woodwork by little battens of wood or metal. (See Fig. 6. >. is the section of woodwork, b the ends of battens, and c the tin d is roundheaded screws going through the whole.) The front piece will require three holes to correspond with the holes in the woodwork, to take the lenses, and also the door piece for the
;
little
windows.
inches wide.
required, I think in
The cover or top, to carry the chimney, can also be made of tin, but far better, and much
easier, of thin sheet copper.
skill
it
of f inch
a piece 4 feet long and 22 inches wide; of inch, a piece 18 inches long and 14 inches wide of \ inch, 2 feet by 18 inches will
;
solder
.
that
7
is
Fig.
do
it
and
4s.
if
be bought for
about
glue and a
polishing,
The whole can be put together with few brads then after finishing and
;
it must be well secured with roundheaded brass screws. The body is secured to the plinth by hinges at the back end, and a brass plate at the front, with a screw arrangement to lift it up, of which
it. It is simply a flat margin all round of, say, 1 inch to cover the woodwork, with a raised centre about 2 inches high, and a hole and collar to take the chimney. A flat piece of
down upon
if
made
as described
it
it
will
made
cost
of deal,
woodwork is a when finished. This can be but much better of bass, and the
last part of the
in
very
little
more.
is
with black japan, secure it to the body of the lantern with round-headed brass screws, as it will not be required to again be removed. The chimney is far more important it is not only ornamental, but of some use. As our lantern is to be fitted with limelight, there will be little
nicer.
;
much
After painting
if
not
and
if
we put
spaces,
we
shall find
it
The chimney
of
is
we want
metal,
HOW
TO
You
IT.
A glance
and the top one solid, to keep the light at any bullseye lantern will show
sort of thing.
you the
shall also require a metal bottom, as the hot limes falling down would burn the" wood.
We
want three sets of front photo with rack and pinion movement; these can often be picked up at a second-hand shop for a trifle, but the difficulty is to get three exactly
lenses,
alike,
This completes the body of the lantern, and we now start upon the metal work in earnest.
and they can be bought new, quite good enough for our purpose, for 16s. 6d. each. There
a lot of swindling done in lenses
;
is
The
being one of
fronts,
Bo*
to contain
Lantern.
"IC
.9.
The Chimney
renewing one of the lenses when the whole principal requirement, and any only cost 12s. 6d. new. old one, however worn or shaky, I just mention this to put you will do. on your guard against giving a If you can get at a good FiC.8. Plan of top one, so much the better fancy price, and being " taken but if in." Of course the better the you cannot get one at all, why then you have simply to do without it, and lenses the better the picture but the prices I with a little ingenuity displayed I think you have quoted are for those usually put in the will be able to overcome that difficulty. most expensive lanterns in this country and The first thing we must do is to get the lenses should you have any difficulty in getting them three sets of compound acliromatic 4-inch conat these prices, I shall be glad to assist you. densors, set in a brass mount, which should cost Those of my readers who are amateur you 12s. 6d. per set. You can get the lenses and photographers, and are possessors of a portrait mount them yourself for 3s. less but it is rather combination, will be spared this expense. The a difficult job, and I think it is best to get them lens named will be exactly suited to the ready mounted. purpose.
27s. for
elides, are the most parand perhaps you will say the most difficult parts to make; but it is easy enough when you know how, and only a few tools
and the
ticular,
by one London,
are
required.
lathe
is
the
of a eondensor
AMATEUR CONJURING.
69
an effectual
trick, the
much
care and
Fig. 4 shows
(It is best
BARLEY.
of Multiplying Coin.
Now
to
for the
method
it.
New Kind
make two
instructions for
up your
an
how now
to
make
I will
kind of multiplying
of things as related
may alter
the state
by Mr. Adamson,
in Vol. V.,
him of a new bos for vanishing money that he has just made, whereupon Mr. Adamson calls it a "misapplication of ingenuity" to make one of that sort, and suggests that he ought rather to make one of the other sort, viz.,
professor tells
for producing
FIG.
5.
ILLUSTRATING
money.
Have
it,
say
INSIDE.
am
about to describe
is
not a box, but simply a coin of the realm. First of all, you must decide on the piece of money you wish to " fake." Some amateurs, who have
ready cash, will doubtless say, on We only use half-sovs. for coin Well, they can use them if they tricks," etc.
plenty of
reading
like.
this, "
an orange or book; placed so as to hide the " faked " coin, or coins. Then come to the front, and begin your trick hy borrowing a penny. Now say something like the following " Ladies and gentlemen, everyone here has heard that money can make money at any time. If, for instance, I were to put this penny out at interes-t at 10 per cent, per annum, it would double itself in about seven years or so." While you have been talking, you get to your table and pick up
:
make
so I will describe
as a penny.
First, then,
;
get a
penny
I do not
(so-
mean
called
a bright,
new
(?)
penny
whether the date answers to 1887 or not), but one that has not had much use. and got worn. Now, all yelathemen, chuck it in your lathe, and with your tools turn all the inside out until it becomes a mere shell " not too thin, but just thin enough." Then smooth it nicely inside, with edges nicely filed, so that
children,
by the
FIG.
when the
stick
coin is finished
it
will not
be likely to
one of the "doubles" unobserved. Place your left hand negligently on the table, and pick up one you will not be noticed in fact, if you are one of the audience, you will think that it is
;
Then take
to
5j.
fit
a natural position.
Now
and turn the edge off just enough the other penny (the shell, see Fig.
thumb and
Thence
Do
not
imagine that a clumsy, slovenly finish will do, because, although it does not look much, to be
apparently transfer it to the left hand, but really " palm " it, and show the " double." Aa
easy
way
to
do this
is
as follows
Hold
the
vol.
m.
(n.s.)
70
coin to be
NEW
COIN CABINET.
The present
literally
writer began
to
collect
when
the
thumb
into the
palm
of the
hand
(Fig. 6).
Then, by slightly closing the thumb, the coin will be found to stick there. Of course, this
will necessitate a little private rehearsal before-
a baby. A collector, like a poet, is born, not made. Now, most people, when they have succeeded in collecting a number of coins, are perplexed what to do with them and to
;
help such
is
hand. But to return to the trick. After having " palmed" the original, and got the "double"
in its place,
you say,
that
'
'
number.
I have
my
I don't
mean
so
my noseno,
per-
me
money from them. In fact, it is a hard job for to get money from anywhere. Now with
little friction
with a piece of
this
them.
cells
By
means the
applied
penny has become two." Just a word or two about making the inside penny come out of the " shell." Hold the " double " firmly between the first and second fingers and the thumb, with the thumb at the lack. Slightly tilt the " double," and relax the pressure of the thumb a little, and then it will be an easy matter to show them side by side. These are just the principles of the trick, but any amateur, reading this, will at once see what
a tremendous
in fact,
it
lot of variations,
almost endless,
for a cabinet but such as I wanted would cost more than I was prepared to lay out. The only alternative was to make one. Up to this time I had not attempted any cabinet work, but I felt that with love and labour I could do much, and the result was all I could desire. Its dimen13 inches high, 9 inches from front sions are With the mouldto back, and 1 1 inches wide. ings top and bottom it stands 14J inches high. It contains twenty slides and two drawers, and
:
will bear.
NEW
By
0.
COIN CABINET.
BECKERLEGOE.
the multitudes of those
top and bottom, 11 \ inches. Scribe a line \ inch from each end of the top and bottom, and cut dovetail pins in them. The
mortise to receive these pins must not be cut
MONGST
who Work,
The mere utilitarian can see nothing in a coin but so much purchasing power whilst others can see much to instruct and charm. An old coin has a wonderful history to relate, and is a
;
We have thus a kind of blind Adequate care must be taken that the ends are properly squared up, and that the two sides and the top and bottom are exactly of the same length. On the two edges of the sides, which are to stand for the back, a J-inch rebate must be
through the
side.
dovetail joint.
taken out
taken that
to receive the
is
backing.
When
all is
and progress in art as hardly anything else can do. The shrewd money-getting man shakes his head over the
It
A
will
at
piece
of J-inch
fit
but the latter has this comfort, that to such as himself the world is largely indebted for the knowledge it has of the past,
old coin-hunter
;
squared up to
this
be best to
point.
and and
up
in its
museums
work.
This
cabinets.
and
stiles
The door must be our next framed out of -inch wood, rails being \\ inches wide. The tenons
is
NEW
COIN CABINET.
front to back than the
71
should not be more than f inch long. When made it must be the same size as the outside measurement of the body. When the frame
is glued up, the joints are strengthened by boring a -inch hole from the inside of the frame through the tenon, and glueing in a pin, care being taken that the centre-bit did not
inch wider than the body, and \ inch deeper from body and door. Thus,
come through
frame;
pieces,
if
when put flush with the back of the body, the frame would extend \ inch beyond the sides and door. The lower edge of the top moulding and the upper edge of the lower moulding are rounded off. The front corners are rounded to correspond with the corners of the door. For the
top and bottom, pieces of
must be planed out. Four f, must now be cut out, and one end of each must be cut off at an angle of 45. These must be glued together at the angle, to fill the upper corners of the door 'Fig. 1). The lower edge is cut into the segment of a circle. This may be done before or after the corners are glued in their place. If done
3
by 1J by
A inch longer than the moulding measures from side to side, and \ inch wider than from front to
back, so that
it
will project
this should be done when they are in position. In fitting them to their position, care should be taken to secure
;
\ inch each side and front. The top has the edges rounded off, whilst the bottom has the edges square. The front corners are rounded to match the moulding and door. When the parts are ready for fixing, the mouldings are glued and screwed to the top and
bottom, of course screwing from the inside, or moulding, care being taken that the points of
the screws do not project.
a close
joint.
Now put
made of one piece instead of two but then the wood would be cross-grained, either with the
stile
or the rail.
it be said that the curves in the corners must be parts of the same circle, that is to say, they have the same point for their centre. The next business was to put a bead around the front, to form a rebate to take the glass. To do this at the sides and bottom was easy. When I came to the curves, a cabinet maker told me it could not be done, as mahogany was too shorttempered to submit to bending to so small
Need
bottom in their positions, and glue them to the body, and secure by screws passing through the top and bottom of the body into the moulding. By this means we shall have no screws visible on the outside. By removing the back we shall be able to fix the screws without difficulty.
The piece of wood I selected for the top had a very beautiful feather, but I was compelled to abandon it for a plain piece, as it warped. I
had no sooner planed day it was as crooked
foot-rule or dividers
it
as a ram's horn.
With
mark twenty
\ inches on
If our
circle
man had
not at
but I concluded that a professional not the time at his disposal that an
obtain the desired result.
of
my command to
aid
However, by the
patience, I
its
was able
Whilst
to
place.
still
hot I tacked
left it there till cold, after which and made the mitres, taking care to make the joints good. The outside corners of the door were now rounded off, and the door was hung. I now framed four pieces as a moulding for the top, also for the bottom. They were made of wood 2 inches wide and \ inch thick. The joints were mitred when finished they were 1
position,
and
it
I removed
measurement has been carefully done, we shall have 2 inches to spare at the bottom. See if the space left is the same each side if not, then our J-inch divisions somehow are wrong, and we must see where, as unless these divisions are true, our slides will be out of truth when inserted. By the aid of a square draw lines across the sides by the divisional marks, working from the front edges. Forty strips of wood must be prepared, 1\ by \ by inches. These must be placed by the
;
lines
beginning at the
a
J-inch
groove,
top, the
lower edge of
give
top.
Scribe a line
which will between it and the f inch from the front of the
line
by the
72
A
and bring the ends
it.
NEW
COIN CABINET.
out
sides,
tearing
the edge,
of the slips to
When
we
of
our work
shall
:
is finished,
have a
series
Another
the slides.
The remaindivided
coin
cell
nearly
in
filled
the
diffiit
by
those
slips
fixed,
to
culty
removing
already
for
the
The back may be glued in its place, and made secure by sprigs or screws. Having done
this,
shudder.
My
proceeded
to
improved method is the following Out of mahogany or walnut wood, such as is used
:
made
ting
to
my case by
rebate on
so
cut-
the
as
as to
ii&yM1&fe5^^
^^
FIG.
Indeed, cedar
is
unfit to
Having
a
half-
make drawers
this
for
any
finished
by
reason.
of
Out the
pieces
re-
W\\
number
on the inside of the case, and as deep as from the back to \ inch
strips
at
from the
front.
Work
the less
;
up a
of
sufficient quantity
them
the edge of
the
between the two pieces, got frayed out, giving an untidy aspect to the
wood, \ inch wide, and inch thick, to lay on the four sides of the slide, as shown in Fig. The corners must 2, d. be mitred. The pieces at front and back are flush
with the
ject
!.
slide,
whilst
make
the slides
solid,
halfline
A,
BOTTOM
B,
MOULDING
must
cell so
C,
D,
be
made with
cloth.
I fitted up a
number on
plan, but the difficulty of getting the bottom of the cell level, and of cutting the holes with-
from the under side). These must now be planed down until they will pass easily through a i-inch gauge. The tongue
(the screws passed
pieces
A
will still be too thick to pass into the
NEW
groove
COIN CABINET.
;
73
it
cabinet.
It
may
if
must he hrought down to the proper thickness, either by a rebating plane or paring chisel. Strips of mahogany, i inch by \ inch, must now be glued to the front edges of the slides. They should be cut out of wood with a handsome feather, or curl if possible. The edges of these must be rounded off or left square, according to taste. Two drawers must now be made to occupy the lower portion. These I made of mahogany, and finished them off by carrying a small bead around the front. But to finish our slides. The bottom must now be lined with velvet or other material. Plum is a good colour, or purple. Some care must be
exercised in fixing the velvet, else the glue or
wrought
desire.
be
all
we
could
No one judges my case to be the work an amateur. The great bane of amateurs is that they get tired and say, "It will do," when they know it will not do, because if they tried they could do better, the result being that the work is never satisfactory, or is even thrown up before half
of
completed.
tion.
cement will come through. If a line of thin glue or cement shellac dissolved in spirits is carried around the bottom of the slide, and allowed to get taekey, the velvet may be laid on without being damaged. The centre need not be so fastened. Strips of thin wood must now be made. The slide must be carefully measured off in squares, and the strips fixed in their places, as shown. Several advantages will be found in this
method over the old plan. A larger number of coins can be accommodated without crowding, as the divisions are not so wide as must be if
the holes are bored.
If
the coin
fits
tightly
would just say a word or two on the collecThe great fault of young collectors is that they collect indiscriminately, and so get a heterogeneous lot, which yields little information or pleasure. It is much better to have one section of the subject complete than to have odds and ends of everything. At the same time, it is advisable to take everything that comes to hook, as sometimes a valuable coin or medal may come But there should in one's way tinexpectedly. be a main purpose. Never part with a coin In my early days I until you know what it is. procured a Stephen's penny. Having no idea of its value, I was easily persuaded to part with it for some coins to me, then, equally ancient-looking, but which now I know to be very common, and comparatively little worth. Against such folly I warn the young collector. There are various plans for arranging coins in a cabinet, such as by their chronological position, or by their denomination. The latter
I
being removed easily. The cabinet contains far less wood, and is consequently much less heavy, which is a considera'ion if it has to be lifted
often or far
coins, are
;
plan
is
by the former method there will be many a long break visible. But by the latter plan, although
the breaks are there, they will not be so pro-
far
more handsome
in appearance.
nounced.
For
instance,
if
succeeding reigns
coin.
The coins are seen to their best advantage. The woodwork now being finished, the door must be glazed. The glass should be bedded
with putty, coloured to match the wood, and
we hardly have a
say
taking
denomination,
sixpences,
But and
then retained in
after
its
place
by thin
slips of
wood,
next,
what
varieties of the
Polishing comes
reign
we can
get,
we have a
far
which the knobs must be put to the slides and drawers. For the slides I find a central knob the best, for the drawers, two knobs. Small ivory or metal slips may be cemented or pinned
to the slides
if
kind of coin
The
handsome
and instructive picture before us. Thus, one could make any one denomination a speciality, and work for its completion, beginning with the easier first. For example, the English copper coins. There are many pieces rare enough to tax the patience of the young numismatist to procure, and varieties of types to make it
74
exceedingly interesting.
in
The collector should work without making a pedigree book, in which should be set down when the coin was procured, from whom if from a "find," state the particulars and also the price paid. If ever the owner has to sell, they will be all the more valuable like many
not go far
I show in one quadrant slots which, in large may be put between the dogs but they
;
The dogs will require to be made by a good smith. The best wrought
are seldom necessary.
iron,
when
finished, case-
hardened,
to
other things
little
make them
it
steel,
but
if
These
the
I find
interesting
if
sometimes
a
slip
memory, but
entered in
jaws are useless. In any plate of considerable diameter there would be three, and in small
plates two steps to the jaws.
jection from the
made
secure.
A rectangular proA
back of each jaw fits accurately and is the guide which keeps the
at the
jaw
plate
L.
DWYER,
B.A.
and nut
back serves
to
keep every-
thing tight.
I will
now
there can be
jaw
is
From
chuck made by one of the best lathe makers in the world, from which I calculated the dimensions of my own, and which will serve as a standard from which the sizes of the various parts of any chuck can be calculated. In reducing, however, it must be noted that every item will not follow the ratio of diameters but of this,
;
It will be seen
on which four jaws by the agency of screws. The screws are boxed in by the thickness of the face-plate, which on this account is of peculiar construction. It would do to have the web of the face-plate thick enough to enclose the screws, say, 1 inch thick for an 8-inch face-plate but this would make the chuck excessively heavy, so another plan is
;
plate,
20 inches
thickness of
width of rim and ribs, H inch dimensions of slots, 5 inches long x If inches wide distance of slots from periphery, 2\ inches. Width, 2j inches, the Dimensions of jaws point tapers to a V. First step from centre, 2f inches long second, Z\ inches third, \ inch
: ; ; ;
generally followed.
The web
of the plate is of
6 J inches;
projection to
;
cast
the usual thickness, say, \ inch, and a rim is round the periphery, which brings it to the
enter
at
slot,
2J
1
back for
Screws
required thickness.
by
2\ inches.
:
squared at
inch square.
inch long,
very strong,
Then plain
long long
;
\ inch
ening piece
come, as
it
then
may be
better policy to
make
little
thicker,
pieces, for
then plain cylinder, \ inch diameter, then screw, square thread, six to the inch, 4j inches long then the point is turned
;
inch long
both
sides,
and will run truer, besides being rather easier to make. Fig. 18 is the back of mine, but if I were making another, I would not have the chuck thicker at the screw-heads. In that figure
plain to f inch diameter, if inch long. These are, as nearly as possible, the dimensions of the various parts of
my
original.
In
copying
started
it
for a plate
10 inches diameter, I
75
least,
J inch.
e.g..
Various other dimensions had to follow these the slot should be at least 1 inch wide, to
fits
jaw which
into
it.
was sunk into a rim 1 inch thick it would leave only \ ineh at each side, which would reduce the strength of the plate to a dangerous point. I obviated this difficulty by putting a strengthening section at the back, as I mentioned before. The rim was 1 inch thick, and from the front of plate to the back of ribs was the same.
thicker, as if f-inch shoulder
the V-shaped points of the jaws. The from each side, so that the two lines forming it make an angle of 90 with each other, and when the jaws are screwed to meet in the centre the lines of the Vs of the four jaws will coincide. The chuck will hold a piece of work of rather less than \ inch diameter, and up to about 9^ inches. Fig. 22 is a view of the back of the chuck, and will be useful, principally, in making the pattern, if the castings were not bought complete. Now I will suppose that the amateur has the casting and forgings, and is about to begin work in converting them into a four-jaw chuck, value 10s. per inch of diameter, which is the
V is 45
usual price.
face-plate of the
first be bolted against the working lathe, bored, screw cut, and, perhaps, the boss turned and a rough cut taken off the ribs. If there are no lumps at the screw-heads, a cut might also be taken
For the sake of the uninitiated, I give four very clear drawings (Figs. 19, 20, 21, and 22),
one-third full size, of the various parts of the
The
casting should
chuck.
Fig. 19
is
off
with
its
the
slot,
which extends from the at the back, wider than and the nut hold the jaw firmly against
slot,
The washer
The plate may now be screwed on the nose of its own lathe, and the front carefully turned flat and smooth. It may be reversed, and the back turned in like manner, finishing very carefully, and
seeing that the slide-rest leaves the plate flat, not hollow towards the centre, nor yet raised in
that part.
is now measured at several be found to be the same everywhere if it is not, there was something wrong in the workmanship, and the best thing to do would be to see that the face runs perfectly true when it is right side out on the nose, also, with
the plate.
The screw
fits
is
shoulder keeps
iron, and, in
collar,
it
immovable.
This shoulder
If the thickness
it
points,
will
which
This collar
two taper
from the and half into the plate, as can be seen plainly from Fig. 21. This figure (21) is a view looking down at the top of the screw. The outside end of the jaw can be seen projecting 1^ inches from the
cast-steel pins,
let,
which are
a straight edge, that it is perfectly flat ; if so, then the back will be found to be untrue. If it can be managed, with a slide-rest tool take a
light cut off the back, as
right.
it is,
and
it
will
be
all
But
it is
show the part which goes into the slot, while the washer and nut appear at the back. Note that the washer projects T\ inch into the slot, to prevent it from
surface of the plate
;
dotted lines
back of a big face-plate like this, and so it might be necessary to file and scrape the ribs until their back surfaces are the same distance from
the front of the face-plate at every point. The outside rim of the plate should be carefully
turning
being tightened up. In this figure also can be seen the square head of the screw, and the recess where the box spanner fits.
is
turned at right angles to the surface, and a very narrow line, scribed with a sharp V-pointed tool,
The
principal
new
feature to be observed in
mark
76
FIG 22
FIG
18.
FIG
19
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIGS. 17
FIG.
ig.- SECTION
AND 18. FRONT AND BACK VIEWS OF CHUCK. THROUGH SCREW, ONE-THIRD FULL SIZE.
SIZE.
FIG.
FIG.
20. FRONT VIEW, ONE-THIRD FULL SIZE. 21. END VIEW OF SCREW AND JAW, ONE-THIRD FULL ONE-THIRD FULL SIZE. FIG. 22. BACK VIEW OF CASTING, TEMPLATES. FIGS. 23 AND 24. -INSIDE AND OUTSIDE
77
may
also
and
and
tool, as
work
chuck
The
slots
must next be
that
is, if
lined out,
is
and
this
had
still
on the
is true,
which
it
should be.
\ inch below the lathe centre, turn the lathe until one pair of slots in the chuck are horizontal, and
may next be taken in hand. They be lined out, by placing them upon the surface-plate front side down, blocking up the thin end, and scribing a line all round, which will be a guide to plane or file down the back surfaces to then they should be laid on their sides (the surfaces just found being at right
The Jaws
first
are
to
draw
slots
;
lines
angles to the surface-plate), and the parts fitting be lined out a proper width. This
above the
square,
then, with a
near the edges of the vertical slots \ inch at each side of the lathe centre, so that the slots will be lined out at right angles to each other, and 1 inch wide a vertical
lines
;
draw other
shaping machine or planer would make the preparation of the backs of the jaws a comparatively easy
could be got,
it
matter
to turn
them.
but failing that, I find that it is easier The centre of the screw at the
is also
back
is
found in the
line
may
also
front of the
jaw
by
lathe centre.
may
the
them
if
that
is
must be made a
little
wider, say
which
guide in the
must be perfect in every respect. The ends of the slots can easily be lined out. A point in the slide-rest will draw arcs of circles terminating the slots, and with a straight-edge chords can be drawn to these arcs. The lines must be dotted along, as usual, to perpetuate them, and then comes the trueiDg out of the slots. If a good deal has to be taken off at some or all parts, a small cold-chisel may be used, cutting carefully
from the front and hack towards the centre
;
This part can also be lined out, while still in the lathe, by bringing the jaw horizontal, and setting the scriber i inch above, and then i inch
below, the
centre.
As
this
part
is
the only
guide for the jaws, it is important that its sides should be made very true; the best way to do
this is to
make one
side perfect
first,
parallel to
but,
if
the general axis of the jaw, as flat as a surfaceplate and scraper can make it, and at right angles to the back of the jaw. The other side
there
is
only
inch or so to take
off, it
could
may be
call
finished
from
this,
be done with
the scale.
files,
a thicknessing template
A little
the face
little
work a must
steel,
used to measure the width of the slots, Fig. 24 should be made so that Fig. 23 will fit between this can be its points with just slight pressure used to test whether work is the same thickness
;
be employed,
all
along.
and not
template also, of
A
but
pair of callipers
it
is
and wide enough to just fit the slot, will be useful in ascertaining that the surfaces are the same distance apart all
\ inch thick,
along.
described.
When
jaws ought
to
fit
The trueing
the four
slots,
and
flat up against the plate, and be able to be moved in and out, with slight pressure, along
the
slot.
It is
78
CHUCKS FOR
il
MY
LATHES"
The outer hole has now
to
;
that a fair
amount of easing will have to be done before things are perfect. Never, under any circumstances, touch the guide when once it has entered the slot if it is tight in one place, it is the slot that is to blame, and it must be eased. If the back of the jaw rests against the plate in one point, and not in another, scrape the high part of the jaw, but do not touch the face-plate. This fitting of the jaws will be found to be tedious but do it carefully, and do not be in a hurry, and a splendid chuck will repay all
;
;
be
enlarged to f inch, to a depth of 1 inch this can be done either with a milling tool fitting on
a J-inch spindle, or else with a rose-bit or pindrill. The i-inch tap can be used while the jaw
is
in place, passing
it
which
and
fair.
used the ordinary V-thread, on account of the Bedifficulty in getting square-threaded taps. fore the jaws are removed after this, it would be
well to
pains.
each in
is
its
number them, so that they could be put own place. The screw proper is made
cast steel, the point is coned, then $ inch
fit
plain
sailing.
The
1
of
good
it,
no special mention
inches and
slot,
the latter
;
is l^f
inch by
A inch
thick
inch
fits
into the
and should be a good fit. The jaws may now be drawn out
threaded J inch Whitworth 2 inches long, then J inch plain next shoulder f inch by J inch long, then plain inch thick for inch
then
it is
;
;
to their full
total length
4-J-
inch.
The
f inch
and the The edges may also be lined bed, and the jaws taken out
and and
Grooves are turned in each step extreme outside of the jaws these serve as a kind of teeth, and help to hold
finished.
also at the
and on the outmentioned before, by two pins passing through it and the Parallel holes should first be drilled for plate. these pins, which can then be tapered with an ordinary clockmaker's reamer, and the pins filed
end of the screw on the inside
side the J-inch hole. It is secured, as I
We
now
turn
our
in the lathe to
first
be
The heads should be slightly fit. below the surface of the chuck but if the points project a little at the back, it will be easy to
;
remembered that
in lining out
drive
to
the
two lines were drawn at right angles to each other, and passing through the lathe centre also another line was drawn round the edge of the plate, inch from the front. Scribe lines across the edge at right angles to the front passing through the ends of the first-mentioned lines, and where they cross the other are the
slots,
-J-
be taken
We
now
have
to
caseharden
the
jaws,
warp in the process. It would reduce this tendency to a great extent if they had been annealed when they came from the smith, and again after most of the machining
was done. This annealing can be effected by heating them to a uniform red in the fire, and letting them cool slowly by burying them in
Centre
circles
;
carefully,
and describe
\ inch diameter, with these for centres put \ inch hole about J inch deep, then with a J-inch twist drill put these holes right through to the
slot,
warm
rough
ashes.
of iron
its
place tightly
screwed up,
that too.
round to the four then loose the jaw, and push them as near the centre as they will go, and tighten them up again then with a Jf inch drill passing through
all
;
Do
the same
get some animal and pound it well, also small scraps of leather from the shoemaker. Pack the articles tightly in the box with plenty of the charcoal and leather between and over and under them,
which
will
let
and seal up with yellow clay then subject the whole to a powerful heat, but not enough to melt the box, for several hours. Open the box
;
A FANCY COAL-BOX.
while
it is still
79
charcoal
and leather
steelifies (if
may be
permitted to
varying with the time of the operation, and when it is plunged into cold water it will become
hard, just like steel
;
if
will give
them a
nice
wide and ^ inch thick, which the seller described as "arbail," but which I discovered afterwards, from Kingsley's " Two Tears Ago," was abele, or white poplar. Then, as I am in the habit of storing up any useful piece of wood that I can lay my hand on, my " store" also yielded me a piece of an old mahogany " four-poster," on which, when a boy, I often " reposed my
Thoroughly wash the articles in water, dry them, and rub them over with sperm oil, and they are ready to put in the
mottled
appearance.
face-plate
weary strength."
furnished
A previous visit to
This
Godwin's
me
permanently.
The squares
at
the
their productions.
was 4j inches
ends of the screws should be very carefully made, so that the box-spanner will fit all, and in every direction. The box-spanner may be either
as
to
is
pair
of
shown
;
in Pig. 17 or 18
of
the latter
is easier
headed brass screws, and two dozen and a-half of 1 J-inch round-headed black screws, and I was
furnished with
all
The part fitting on the screw square is drilled, and the outside turned at the same chucking. The handle also is turned, and the rest filed smooth. The square may be easily worked out by a J-inch square file. If the spanner is of wrought iron, it ought to
it is
make
wrought
iron.
Now
poplar (rejecting the knots, which resist that operation better than any knots I know), I cut
up
my
stuff to the
shape and
size
given in plans
1, 2, 3, 4,
and
5,
have been casehardened with the jaws. I have taken a good deal more space than I intended in describing this chuck, but owing to its importance few will complain. I hope that what I have written will prove useful to many of
The edges were made and having finished this to my satisfaction, I set about screwing them together. The two sides were first fastened to the bottom, the latter having first been planed
in the direction shown.
my
readers.
'
A FANCY COAL-BOX.
By PEDAGOGUE.
(For lUuiirations,
sec folding sheet
off to correspond with the angle at a. This threw it forward to allow the back to go flush with the bottom of the side at b. The back came next, and then the top. The latter was screwed to the back with a flat screw, for reasons I shall
presently explain.
1KENG
a bachelor for a
week
in the
next was constructed and this I am would be called most unworkmanlike carpentry. Having planed off the end, which was to meet the top, to the required angle, I had then
The
lid
afraid
to fix
my
ornamental
tile.
arranged
it
in the
little
employment
title
for myself to
while
for
it.
away
my mind
and marked it round with a pencil. Then from each corner I drew a line to the corner of
centre,
d, e, f, g. Some strips of sufficient width were planed to thickness of tile, and mitred to fit round it, and so cover the lid. These were then bevelled off to the edge, and by the aid of glue, and screws from the under side, fixed in their places. Thus the body was finished. The handle next received attention, and here my six-inch wooden lathe stood me in good stead. Taking a piece of the " old four-poster," about
paper supplied
the lid
exceeded
my
expectations
when finished,
if
and a lady (not the one who inspired it) asked I bought it at Maple's it was so pretty. Thinking some of the readers of Amateur Work might do as I did, being a very amateurish
carpenter, I will
Let
me
now set about describing it. begin with the materials. I had by about 15 feet of a white wood, 11 inches
me
80
18 inches long and a couple of inches square, I turned it into two pillars (shown full size in plan).
A i-inch hole
shaving taken
flat
was bored
off
round the hole. bored throtigh, only about inch deep. A piece of a holly stake turned, furnished me with a grasping bar, which is also given full size at t. Two holes were then bored in the top of the box with an inch auger, the centre of each hole being 3 inches from front, and 2J inches from sides. The grasping bar was fixed into the holes in the top of the pillars, and the latter put through holes in the top, and fixed there by driving a pin through on the inside of the box, sufficient length going through to allow that to be done. A
miniature pillar similar in pattern to the before-
them
FRANK S. MORTON.
most convenient batteries for experimenting is the bichromate bottle battery, owing to its strong current and lack of disagreeable fumes. Those of the Grenet type are the most common, consisting of
of the
NE
between the bottom and the by boring a |-inch hole and glueing, to form a handle for opening the lid. I should have said that a strip about 1 inch wide catches the lid at the bottom, and also prevents the coal working out. The hinges were placed on the outside, and supplemented with hinge plates. Practically the construction of the box was ended, but on second thoughts some further ornamentation was given to it. This was carried
into the lid, half-way in the following way. Some strips of mahogany were turned, as at w, and then split down with a tenon saw, and after being smoothed
out
with the plane were fastened with joiner's brads along the edges of the sides and back, visible when looking down on the box. Four feet were
-BATTERY COMPLETE.
y,
and
way
as the handle
a plate of zinc between two carbons immersed in a solution of bichromate of potash, sulphuric acid, and water, with an arrangement for lifting
the zinc out of the solution
whole, and
when
not in use.
who may take a why walnut might not be used in place of mahogany or, if neither is to be had, wood stained
For the
of
those
I do not see
mahogany,
after turning.
is
These are commonly known as bottle batteries, and various styles have been described in the columns of Amateur Work. Almost any kind of dish can be used, and the most simple method of holding the zinc and carbons together can be adopted if wanted only But a nicely made one is always for short use. a source of pleasure, as it is always ready for action, and needs less fussing over than the A nice battery can be hastily constructed ones. fruit jars with glass made from the ordinary
81
one
is
able to
work small
and cut small threads. Fig. 1 shows such a cell complete, made from an ordinary quart fruit jar, as shown. This size
pieces of brass in the lathe, jar allows of a pint
of liquid being used,
as,
1
I
but screws do just as well, and are easier to handle. Use small machine screws and nuts, as shown in the drawing. In the meantime, have another wood block cut out, just large enough to
fit
of course,
filled
it
can
if
inside the cover of the jar, and have it well soaked with hot
be
half full
wax.
The
the
relative
the zinc
out.
is to
be
lifted
_
It will operate
coil,
and
o 2
.
one
pre-
a small induction
and
give,
will
furnish
to
current
enough
with a properly
coil,
made
shock.
a severe
is
It
about
also
the
for
right
size
holding
gether.
lb
them
to-
many
useful purCarix
Now
fasten
poses.
the brass,
details
with the
to
The
follows
jar
of its
carbon
the
attached,
construction
:
are
as
Select the
first,
as the size
of the zinc
and
car-
bon will be governed by the size of the opening in the top of the jar. For an ordinary
quart jar these can be about li inches in width, the carbons 6
inches long, and the zinc 3 inches.
Cut a round block of wood out of J-inch stuff, just large enough to fit into the top of the jar. Soak it in hot paraffin wax, and bore a J-inch hole through the centre
of
it.
the brass
plate
should be
to prevent
made
any
wood
top, so as
false connection
Now
sheet
stout
and cut
it
between the carbons and the rod which holds the zinc. The centre post, through which
the rod passes that holds the zinc,
about
in
it,
3x1^
as
inches.
Drill holes
;
shown
in Fig. 2
cut the
slits
brass,
black
Now
bend
it
it
on the
will
assume
Fig.
4),
which also
and the
shows the
office it performs, that of holding the carbons in place. This method of holding the carbons was described by Lebaei on page 145, Vol III. (Old Series). He also described how
by a couple
wax by
soldering
82
on the other end to fit a thread cut in the end of Cut this latter thread before the zinc is amalgamated, as it will be difficult to do it after the metal is made so brittle. Put the
the zinc plate.
The
of
and connection is then made direct between it and the second binding post. Cover all the exposed brasswork inside with hot paraffin wax, and do not be sparing of it. Plaster everything over with it, to protect it from the action of the battery fluid, which soon eats up brass if not
zinc in place,
Paint the screw top of the jar, probably be zinc or brass, with black japan, inside and out; and when put together, your battery is complete.
well protected.
which
will
do
Have you set out full-sized sections ? If not, so. As I have said many times before, it will
list
of all stuff
our job.
All
excepting,
of course,
the lengths
are
HOUSEHOLD UTILITY.
Bij
ED.
C.
ROE,
Jun.,
Silver
City
IriJ
MLST
NUMBER.
LENGTH.
FT.
IN.
WIDTH.
FT.
IN.
THICK.
IN.
BR
subject
my
next
paper of the
^Bjfl
household
article
series,
my
eyes
4
2
1
3 2
1
4
1
of
making.
the opinion of
10
1
Now, supported
authorities
cribs
as I
am by
upon the
2 2 2
14
12 4 4
1
If 2* 2 Of 2J 9
1? 1*
f
Legs.
End
Top
rails.
Panels.
are
8 7
2
1
J 1* 1* 1*
1
1
Moulding.
rails.
Bottom
Stiles.
rails.
Balusters.
draw
2 10
4
1
those persons
of
who
are in
2 2
Lath
1
rails.
Laths.
an occupant for it when completed. It will be observed that it is so constructed as to reduce the danger of falling or rolling out of bed to a minimum. This alone is ample recombut when we add to this, extreme portability, and the ease with which it can be taken down and re-erected, I venture to believe that the verdict before remendation, I think
its
;
hand first, set out the moron the legs, setting back | inch the depth of the plough groove, and in the
in
case of the top rail f inch, to allow for the rounding of the top edge ; this is shown fullsize at
I.
way
of
if
and therefore
it
will
be as well
the construction of
ceeded with.
and plough out as much as possible, but do not forget that the plough groove finishes with the mortises. It is best to set a gauge, and run a couple of lines along, as the end portions will require chopping out with a chisel, and afterwards clearing out with an old woman's tooth or router. This being done, the rails may be set
83
4-
9
na^
\
!
~i~
1
A
Ji
WL
./ Section
\i
Moulding
,
at
g A
elevatton Baluster
I
n
: i
C
1 1
'
ill
a Crib
fof\
the youngster
Slotted Studs and Plates
ByE?C RoeJun?
L
ti&tmf^
W
iz.
-;
V
Setting Oac* for panel Groove
\
Scale jin-Ifi
84
out, the tenons cut
for
we
require
inch.
These are
Round
and chamfer the bottom edges of bottom rails, and cut the shoulders of the tenons. Glue up
the panels to width, and,
notched out in 2J inch notches, as at c, to take end of laths, and are screwed securely to the inner face of sides, the bottom edges of both
side
when
and
rails
being
level.
and plane
of
by means
At
these
we can
;
obtain
g.
gauge made by ploughing diagonally across the end grain of a piece of stuff with the same iron it is intended to use, or has been used, for ploughing the legs and rails. The ends of the legs require to be turned a full-size elevation showing pattern is given at e. After turning, the three outer edges can be chamfered and the rails fitted the mortises may
a mullet
or
;
;
slotted studs
and
plates, as sketched at
Of
these
we
let
or
may
personally, I think
preferable to run
them
through,
as, if
The crib may now be put together, and after having levelled all round, mark and cut off the bottoms of legs preparatory to fixing the cup castors, of which a set will be required square "When castors are fitted and fixed, in the cup. erect again and fit the ten bottom laths into
place hand-tight
;
and under the circumstances would scarcely look Before finally knocking together, clean well. up the outer faces of the rails and the side faces of the legs, as it will be impossible to clean off
properly
after so doing,
mark them
Having arrived
so far, the
remaining opera-
when
together.
The ends being glued up, the mouldings mitred round, and placed aside to dry, we may
look after the sides
necessary to
fix
;
occupant,
who
taking the
stiles
we
require
bottom
rail it will
be
anybody with the new piece of although possibly from a different furniture,
delighted
as
may be
split
point of view.
bottom edge 2 inches and 1\ inches, the 2| inch portions being the tenons, and the 2 inches the pieces to be removed to within inch of the shoulder on the rails. The space between the
rails is
tise for
have been passed and sketches should remove any doubt that may have arisen.
Should any minor detail
to
the drawings
6 inches, and then we come to the morthe top rail, which will go, still taking from the bottom edge 1& inches for the tenon,
1
A
is
strongly
delicate prints:
"Weigh
it
best arrowroot,
mix
Soak half an
thoroughly
it is
the tenons, bore the holes f inch and about | inch deep, to receive the pins on ends of balusters,
and swollen.
itself.
will quickly
fit
together.
;
After placing
sufficiently
Add
up when
round the top edge as per section shoot the bottom edge straight, and square
the ends.
pure carbolic acid. This forms a stiff jelly when cold, and it should be used cold, being brushed on to the back of the prints, or applied to them with a sponge. Photo. News.
85
disposed
of,
in
The
made
as
The
10ME
to
hench lathe. with fret-saw, etc., and purchased a larger lathe, he set to work to replace the fret-sawing appliance, which was
a
3-inch
use on
FIG.
3.
SAW
FRAME FIXED ON
Having disposed
of the lathe,
SLIDING PIECE.
Xs,
__.
,,
<->
by 30
inches,
and
brass
inch
thick,
common
Having
FIG.
I.
GUIDE
found to be extremely useful for a variety of purposes and it struck him that as the machine had not, to his knowledge, been described in AiiATzrn "Work or, in fact, any other publication he would send a description of the
;
same for the benefit of his fellow-readers. Amongst its many advantages may be
mentioned that it has a true vertical stroke,
simplicity of construction,
and,
what
is
probably more important to many of "ours," the cost of construction is such as to bring it within the reach of all. In the following description, wood is given as the material of which the machine is
constructed
;
but, of course,
it
could be
FIG. 4.
FRET-SAW
u,
by those having the ability and inclination to do so. The writer may remark, however, that he had in use
in metal
made
the board.
These two
which may be
marked a and
(see Fig. \).
machine
gave every
satisfaction,
being eventually
inches long
(o),
86
HOUSES.
together,
them and give rigidity to the whole. Again falling back upon the " stock " piece, saw off a strip 1 inch wide and 1 foot long. This is to be bevelled on one edge ^(Fig. 2), and then cut in
piece previously described. This will brace
half.
to be
1),
and a thumbscrew, will enable any angle be obtained (see Fig. 4). To connect the machine with the lathe, a small face-plate is put on the mandrel, and an iron or brass pin, \ inch in diameter, screwed into it at about 1 \ inch from the centre. This
to
will give a stroke of
Another piece of wood, 4 inches long, is now to be carefully bevelled on the sides, so as to slide easily, but without shake, between the two pieces just described. The back of this sliding piece may with advantage be reduced
slightly in thickness to within, say,
machine
is
may
The
machine
is
f inch of
On
setting the
lathe in
much
as
6 inches long, to
fit
screw and nut, to clamp the whole to the lathebed, completes the machine so far.
\\ inches from one end, a slot is cut, say, 2 1 inches long and \ inch wide. Over this is screwed
and some plumbago or but no oil. The apparatus adapted for use on of an old sewing
be well
oiled,
the
course,
be easily
may now be
slot, to
correspond,
of
brass
may be
The
the
used, separated
inch.
now
required.
Drill
Remove
two holes in
when the
slot in the
-Scope of these Papers Theory of Hot Water Circulation An Interesting Experiment The Tank System Explained Best Form of Boiler
\ inches above the level of the lathe centres, the lower clamp of the saw does not
project above the part a (Pig. 1).
Cost.
this series of
papers
it is
intended to
A table,
either
the theory
now
required to
The table, which may be round or square, is divided by a line across its centre into two parts, and a small hole bored to allow the saw blade to pass easily through. Fix a saw in the frame, passing through the hole just mentioned, and, after adjusting it so that the saw will travel accurately up and down, secure the table in place with a few screws. If a tilting table be preferred, instead of screws two hinges should be used, one on each of the bevelled side pieces of the upright, and to the underneath part of the table. A. curved piece of brass plate, screwed to the
water work as applied to domestic use; and when I say for domestic use, I mean for supplying a bath, nursery, housemaid's sink, and for giving a constant supply of hot water to the
kitchen,
or to
any part
I
of the house
where
it
may be
wanted.
may also
waste time and space on anything too ambitious, but just describe, as clearly and simply as possible, such systems of hot water work as will be suitable for small and moderate sized houses or villas. Many will, no doubt, attempt their
and those who do not, and employ someone else to do it for them, will, I have no doubt, after reading and studying these
own work
HOUSES.
fitting,
87
principles
before.
have a clearer understanding of the of hot water work than they had
of a constant supply of hot water
that
many
people have been disgusted with the trouble and expense that they have been put to, and have
The value
where the necessity (I will not say the luxury) of the bath is appreciated, can hardly be over-estimated and now that the necessary materials and appliances are to be had at such moderate prices, it is a matter of surprise to me that so few people, comparatively
in a dwelling
;
given the work a bad name. Let the would-be amateur hot water fitter work out the following little experiment, and
is
meant by the
Fig.
1
;
Notice
will call
and return
we
room and hot water on the upper floors of their It shall be my aim to point out the
simplest plans, and to help in every
way
that I
In the
first
place,
few words
will
be
Take any small tin box that will hold water, and bore two holes in it or, better than that, punch the holes before putting
solder on a top,
;
the top on
let
many
it
even some
the size of the holes to be \ inch or f inch. Get another box, say two or three times the size of
Most people are aware that bath-rooms are supplied with hot water, and also that there are taps and sinks in various parts of the house, of which hot and cold water can be drawn off.
It is also
fact, in
known
to some, that in
all
small systems
the
many
is
cases
in
;
heat
obtained
from the kitchen range, in some way or other but beyond this they have not the remotest idea. Let me try and explain. Many of my readers have, no doubt, performed the feat of carrying the tea-kettle round the room on the palm of the hand, as it was taken boiling off the fire, to illustrate the fact that the hottest part of a vessel of hot water is
at the top, and, per contra, the coldest part at
need not have any top fixed though in actual practice it would be covered in punch two holes in the bottom the same size as the previous ones now take two pieces of compo pipe any length to suit your convenience, from 1 foot to 6 feet it is quite immaterial. Let the pipe, e, go to within \ inch' of the bottom of the boiler, and solder it round to the top now connect it to the hot water or circulating tank, by letting it through the bottom about \ inch, not more but
the
first
one
this
on
it
for this
experiment,
Now
fix
by
slipping
it
up
inch or
the bottom.
of
Well, this
is
boiler is heated
is
The water in the by the fire, and as gets hot it rendered lighter, and being displaced by the
hot water circulation.
it,
\\ inches, according to the depth of the tank. Let the other end come over the hole in the boiler, and solder round both pipes this pipe must not be put through the top of the boiler, or the water would not circulate properly. Now rig it up so that you can apply heat to the
;
boiler,
either
by
gas,
oil,
or
stove
fill
the
it
the
any part of the house by back to the boiler, getting heated again, and thus circulating round and round the system as long as the fire is kept going. "How very simple," says someone, " I had no idea that this was all there was in it." Yes, it
whence it flows
to
means
of pipes, returning
is
if
the affair
is
properly
many
of
arrangement with cold water, by pouring it in at the top till within an inch of the top of the circulating cistern. If now you apply heat to the boiler, and watch the circulating tank, you will be able to see the circulation you will observe the hot water flow across the tank to the return pipe, and the water in the tank will gradually get hotter and hotter as it keeps going through the boiler, till it reaches nearly
;
or
quite
to boiling
point.
This
is
very
88
interesting experiment,
out.
and well worth carrying I think myself, that a single experiment worked out teaches one far more than pages
of reading alone
light
;
be
nursery,
throwing, as
it
often does, a
to do.
to
Fig. 2 gives a
clearer
It is either carried
S P
To
Nursery Ac.
Bathroom
fig
Pin
5.
Drill
FIG. 2.
SIMPLE HOT
WATER
SYSTEM.
water
is
supplied and
drawn
off,
etc.
how h
the
re-
through the
tank, as
roof,
shown
in sketch.
will, I think,
manfrom
These sketches
s is
valve, b,
to
known
if
fed from o
is
a pump,
an overflow
the roof,
pipe to guard against accident, in case the ball valve should get out of order and leak s p is a
;
syphon pipe connecting the cold water to the (Fuller details and particulars of all S3 stem.
r
There is another system which I shall describe later on, called the " cylinder system,"
in
which
the
circulating
tank,
which
is
HOUSES.
89
the
the pipes will soon become choked with fur, and cause no end of trouble.
flow and return
inch,
;
boiler as convenient.
I recommend
is
inch
Having given a general idea of the tank system, we will now consider it in detail, describing
each part of the apparatus, and the
up.
or
if
expense
no
object, \\
way
to
fit it
"We will first take the boiler, as beiDg, perhaps, the most important item. There are
several different forms of boiler, but for our
and f inch draw off. Whichever size you decide to use, 2 holes must be drilled in the boiler with a drill that
admit the end of a tap for the size pipe The best way to proceed is to drill a small hole first, say \ inch, with an ordinary drill, and then finish with what is called a pin drill (see Fig. 5). With regard to the position of the holes, I have shown them at h (Fig. 3), for the boot
will just
purpose
it
two
of the
(Fig. 3)
only be necessary to mention most useful, viz., the saddle boiler and the boot boiler (Fig. 4) they are
will
;
made
is sometimes used for best though the cost is very great compared with wrought iron, which is quite good enough for all purposes. The saddle form is very
boiler,
it is
prefer-
work
able
at
to drill one
on the
the back
or side,
drilling
bottom.
The
and the other about 1 inch from the will have to be done
top,
;
suitable for
powerful
enough, the boot form is preferable. The most expensive, ranging in price from about 2 upwards. The saddle form is cheaper the smallest size, which is about 8J
;
under a machine, or with the ratchet brace a thread is then put in by means of a tap and wrench. It is sometimes considered best to drill a third hole near the bottom of the boiler, to insert a \ inch pipe for a draw-off to empty the
arrangement for cleaning out the boiler. If done (and I should recommend it), there should be no tap fixed to this pipe simply a plug screwed into the socket as if there is a tap, people will go to it and I always insist upon all draw-off taps being taken out above the top of
this is
inches high, 7| inches across top, and 8J inches across bottom, by 9 inches wide, costing from
make and each about 1 inch each way, except the height, which remains the same for several sizes) increasing about 2s. 6d. I give here the names of some of the principal makers
20s. to 25s., according to the
;
size larger
(which
is
they are Messrs Lumby and Sons, Halifax Hartley and Sugden, Leeds and Sidney Flavel, Leamington. Messrs. O'Brien, Thomas, and Co., 228 and 229, Upper Thames
of these kinds of boilers
; :
the boiler, so that in case of a stoppage of the supply of cold water, there would be no fear of the boiler being drawn empty before it was
discovered
the
in this way.
tap,
Street, London, supply saddle boilers for bath heating purposes at very cheap rates, the small saddle boiler, of which I have just given the sizes, being quoted at less than 1 in their list,
man who
it
easily take
is
out, this
and replace
pipe
there
is
when
in,
his
done.
If
not put
be,
and other
sizes in proportion.
I cannot speak
have
described,
will
of course,
as to quality, as I have not tried them, but I believe them to be all right, though perhaps
certain
amount
of
when
is lifted;
by the other
makers.
first
Whichever form is fixed upon, the thing to do will be to drill and tap the boiler to the size of pipe that is going to be used. This size of pipe, again, is a subject of choice some people have put in hot water systems with as small a flow and return as f inch, and \ inch draw-offs. Now this is no use at all, as
;
to consider is to
fit
up two
:
and
to screw
them
this,
and to prepare and pack the manhole joints however, must be deferred till the next
chapter.
90
shown
in Fig.
bamboo, and although and fragile, yet, if the joints are well made, they will stand a good amount of wear. The work
in
their appearance is very light
is very suitable for amateurs, as it requires very few tools and very little finishing, except rubbing with polish or glaze. For tools, a few
have to be bored through, to allow the The two sets of cross pegs] to pass through. rails must have five | inch holes bored in them, and rails of inch in bamboo fixed and glued between them, keeping the centres of rails
will also
4 inches apart.
boring
bits,
round
files,
and a knife,
will
be found
sufficient.
The gong stand now to be described will be a very good article to commence with. Fig. 1 shows the stand complete, with gong and beater
the upright rails at each side are 2 feet 9 inches high, and l inches diameter the full width outside is 22 inches the pieces for the feet are
; ;
The
feet should
be
first fitted to
each
full size,
can then be taken from the drawing. The top ends must be hollowed to fit the uprights then
;
fix in
wood peg
3 inches
long, glued in also fix in the bottom of each upright a wood peg reaching above where the feet fit on these pegs will also prevent dirt or
;
upright
glued,
fixed,
which
FIG.
I. GONG OTAND.
wire
and the top end of the feet are nailed by which will go into the pegs, and fix them firmly the pegs should be made of very
nails,
;
dry wood.
them exactly
apart in
rails
making and the same distance both uprights, so as to keep the cross
;
FIG.
2.
SECTION
OF JOINT.
parallel the top rail is about 2 inches below the top end of upright, and the cross rails about 4 inches apart, measuring from the centres. Then cut the four cross rails to one length, and hollow the ends to fit the uprights, and fix a wood peg in each projecting 1 inch, except the top rail, which must project 2 inches,
them together
a wire nail
may
be put into the joints to keep all firm. Then cut out and hollow the ends of the two projecting pieces on the outer ends of the top rail, and glue these on the ends of the pegs projecting through the uprights, making the
projection
91
a section of the
the dark shaded
is
make
;
this clearer
portion
is
unshaded portion is the cross rail. Then cut out the two angular pieces on the top these are the same size as the cross rails, and are jointed at the top in the same manner as shown on Fig. 2, except that
;
the
upright
and the
Wood.
Preparing
the
Tools.-
the
joint
is
square.
bit, it
As
on the
The
tools
should
be
bored with a gimlet, and enlarged with knife and file, or it may be burnt out with a hot iron, taking care not to scorch the
outside.
may be
cross
rail,
The lower ends are hollowed to fit the and are glued and nailed with
wire
nails.
The projecting ends of the uprights and cross rails must be fitted with turned pieces
of
wood,
pieces
to
coyer the
cut
;
holes
in
the
ends,
ground on an ordinary grindstone to the proper angle, and then carefully finished off on a fine oil-stone. The line from a to c, in Fig. 9, shows The about the proper angle to grind them. tint tools may be ground to a long bevel, represented by the line d to E in the Fig. This makes them less clumsy, without weakening them. "When bought, the tint tools all have sharp edges, and these should be taken down to different widths by rubbing them over an oilstone so that the tools will cut lines of different
or
may be
smoothed with a file and varnished, and fixed with glue and wire nails. Then clean off any surplus glue from the joints with a damp sponge or cloth, and rub the whole over with polish or glaze. The beater can be made of wool, tightly wrapped on the shank (which may be a piece of i inch bamboo), and covered with soft white
leather, similar to the cover of a ball
is
Leave No. 1 sharp from No. 2 take little from No. 3 a little more and so on, taking care to do it evenly and to preserve the points. Fig. 10 shows the lines the tools
widths.
;
off just
should cut
when
finished.
It is better to let a
this, as
well as grind
down the tools the first time, although anyone can do it by being careful. Upon the sharpness
of the tools depends the ease with
hung by
which the
too
much
care cannot be
the uprights.
The gong
rail,
inches diameter.
Foe Behoving Old Putty which has become hard from sashes and similar places, petroleum
oil is
exercised in their preparation. In laying them down, look well that the fine points are not broken off a good way to prevent this is to keep the tools on a cloth. Having the tools all sharpened and ready for use, we will proceed to the other appliances needed before commencing work in earnest.
;
First is the
oil
Pad
or
Sand Bag.
to
pad
will
be necessary
it,
on which
so that
it
may be
turned about.
This
should be
sand.
oil,
made of leather, and filled with fine To make it, take a piece of soft leather,
two
circles
In about three hours from first coat of petroleum it is possible to cut the putty with the point of a knife with as much ease as though the sash had been glazed only a day or two previously.
the application of the
and
strike out
5
;
or
inches in
a
with
sharp
Builder
waxed thread
calls
and Woodworker.
or a "
waxed end,"
as the
shoemaker
them,
92
sewing near the edge all around, and leaving an inch or so open (see Fig. 11). Do not cut off the threads, hut leave enough of them hanging to finish sewing the open space. Then with the aid of a paper funnel fill the pad with fine sand, working it around so that the sand will hulge it
out as in Fig. 12, which shows the pad complete.
Work in as much sand as possible, and then sew up the open space. The longer the pad is in use the more it will conform to the block, and the more convenient it will become. It can be bought ready made if one does not
care to
make
it.
FIC.
9.
Showing Angles
at whichTools
should be ground
F C
I
Pid ready
for Mlmtj
fic. 12.
Pad
filled
10.
Tools
should be graded.
or
and
is
as one
chooses.
the block
when taking a
proof.
Beady-made
Fig. 13 however, and are generally used. shows one with the pad placed on top of it but any form or shape may be' made, or a small bos,
ones can be bought (see Fig. 18), but if the leather is gathered together and tied with a
string, as in Fig. 19, it serves the
any object of suitable size used in its place. Care should be taken to use some object that will set firmly on the bench or table, and will not be easily moved. Eye-glaas and Stand. An eye-glass will be necessary to enable one to do justice to his work, although it is not absolutely necessary to the beginner until he has done considerable practising with his tools. A glass of moderate power should be chosen, those used by jewellers (Fig. 14) being a good kind. But a glass about an inch and a quarter, or an inch and a half in
or
as well.
If the
making
one.
This completes the list of necessary tools and appliances, with the exception of a few small
things that need no special description,
and
But before we commence work in earnest, the block must be prepared, and the drawing placed upon it. Drawing on the Block. Engravers generally
diameter, as in Fig. 15, is a better size. A stand will be needed, and that can easily be
made
at
home, or
if
it
can
have their drawings all prepared for them, but amateurs will want to do the whole thing and The block as it comes this is how it is done. very smooth glassy a has maker from the
;
93
and
is
exceedingly
difficult to
To give
it
warping will be prevented. Always stand the block on edge after it is whitened, and it will large blocks should not be as likely to warp always be kept that way, whether they are
;
of cork.
Be
whitened or not. For drawing on the block an ordinary set of drawing implements may be used, such as a
it
&c.
sketch
may be
printed.
This
fig FiC
IS
.
17.
FiC.
15.
Engravers Glass
FIC 14
Jewellers Eye Class
FIG.
Vuttli
13.
Pad Stand
Top.
Pad on
rubbing will roughen up the surface, so it will be just right to draw on. Simple designs may be drawn on without any further preparation, using a hard pencil so that the lines will not spread. But the method generally pursued is to coat the
surface with a layer of Chinese white, using a camel' s-hair brush to lay it on with, and rubbing
be transferred directly bj the same In the latter case, however, the picture will be reversed, while the tracing may be reversed, and thus have the finished cut show
design
may
means.
the same
way
as the original.
Of course the
evenly over the surface of the block with the finger or palm of the hand. Use as little water
it
it
will
from
it.
In engraving from
and warp. Some advise that the under side of the block be wet a little when the surface is whitened, so both sides may swell equally, and
swell
a drawing it is necessary to have the block covered with thin paper, cutting it away as the This paper may be engraving progresses.
94
A SWINGING
it
HAMMOCK
CHAIR.
over the edges of with beeswax. If not covered with paper, the drawing would be rubbed off by the hand in cutting it.
the Mock, and sticking
it
fastened by lapping
down
The tracing on the block will look ragged when the impression paper is removed, and will need touching up with a hard pencil pointed fine, to make the lines clear and distinct. The
pencils
Bore in each upright a f-inch hole 2 inches from the top. Get a f-inch iron rod this must have a thread and nut at one end, and at the other, either a " head " or another thread and nut. Its length must be sufficient to pass through the two frames, and be screwed up on the inside
; ;
in this case
it
drawings are afterwards filled in with softer and India ink, to give the required
shading.
beginner should not attempt much shading, however, but confine himself to designs, that have distinct lines to wgrk on, and to reproducing the work of others until he to handling the tools.
is
may now be performed. "We shall something to prevent the bottom of the frames from slipping apart. In the sketch there are also iron rods, with a hook at one end, which fits into a staple in the sides of the frameThis operation
also require
accustomed
work
some
screwed
framework,
will
and
its
Construction.
being folded and put away. If preferred, a chain, or even the humbler rope, might be substituted. "We now have a frame not unlike the frame for a boat swing.
not prevent
If meant to be permanent, it can, of course, be put together with more solidity but the foregoing will be found to answer for the lighter and more portable article we have
;
OB
the framework of our swing we shall require four scantlings of, say,
6| eet
1
inch thick.
These must be fastened together in pairs by and bottom, which may be 2J inches broad by 1 inch thick. The bottom cross-pieces must be mortised into the long pieces at about 2 inches from the bottom, the upper ones about 6 inches from the top. It will give a
cross-pieces top
,
in view.
Now
Get two
This,
Each length
4 inches.
however,
chair legs.
may
little
swing if these top crosspieces, instead of being mortised, be screwed on the outside of the framework.
to the
more play
such that
The length of the chains must be when the chair is swung and in the
1,
As
depend upon the width of the chair. the chair at its widest point, i.e., across the arms, and add 4 inches 2 inches clear on either
;
must Measure
At each end
of the chain,
and
ought hung.
side
to
suffice if
sketch in Fig.
4.
The hooks
in the centre of
The above measurement will give the opening between the sides of the narrower of the two frames. The other must be wider by 2 full
inches, in order that the top ends may of those of the lesser. Thus, the
fit
the leg
and back as
play of
outside
as
chair
sketched being
the
foot
9J-
opening between the sides of the inner frame will be 2 feet inches, and that of the
full.
complete so
far.
95
third link
short,
i.e.,
prevent
arms.
against the
Shoidd they do
so, in
the whole affair to pieces, screw small blocks in the seat of the chair, and these blocks.
mount the
on
is
by lengthening the chain it may be made assume any angle, including the angle which forms the straight line. The other pieces of chain must be fastened to the frame facing the sitter, and at the height
whilst
to
now
may be
hook must be
or,
end of
these chains,
not perpendicular, or
;
but,
whatever the cause, it must be discovered and removed, as it is of the highest importance that the chair should swing evenly between the
uprights of the frame.
from the bottom. These, which we may call the "fixing chains," must be fastened when the chair is not to be used
at about 10 inches
as a swing.
Fig. 2 will give a fair idea of the whole arrangement, though the chains would, with the
FIG.
4-.
FIG.
3.
A, FRAMEWORK
OF SWING E, IRON TO SUPPORT AWNING AND REGULATE ITS INCLINATION TO SURROUND FRAMEWORK. FIG. 4. SAFETY HOOK FOR CHAINS.
;
C,
STRIP OF CANVAS
We do not, however, advise the amateur to occupy the chair at this stage, even though the oscillation leave nothing to be desired. A French writer has described a throne as " un fauteuil a bascule," and the amateur might learn to his
cost that the " turn-over " business
to other
is
chair at the angle given, be somewhat deflected from the straight line by the pull of the regulating and fixing chains respectively. They have, however, been left straight in order to give a better idea of the functions of
possible
is
if
now
he
in
than crowned heads. Before our hammock chair can be used we shall need four pieces of chain, each 1 foot long, and as
felt
as before.
;
hammock
chair.
Just under each arm of the chair (vide Fig. 1) fasten, by means of staples, one of these chains then fasten one of the hooks to the two nearer
swing-chains, about
1
as are so
contrivances,
by those members
foot
(actual or "intended")
These chains, which we may call the regulating chains, must always be fastened by one of their links to the hooks in the swing chain before
sitting in the chair.
And
even
blazing sun
by
flood
and
field,
without the
By keeping
may
well,
96
in his rare
moments of leisure, object to being hung and then grilled. Let us see if we can ward off these several
calamities.
in Fig. 3.
Fig. 3 Js a sketch of the framework of an awning, meant to be fixed at the top of the swing frame. It may be very light wood 2| inches wide by A inch thick will do. In the
;
chair,
sketch
it is
3 feet 6 inches
by 2
feet 6 inches
but the latter dimension must depend upon the outside width of the swing frame, as it must just
slip over
it.
advanced the interests of the human and the worker have a chance of showing his respect for Spencerian philosophy by fallingfast asleep in his swinging hammock chair.
far
race,
jointed in any way within the amateur's capacity, though, of course, the dovetail joint is the correct thing.
It
may be
DWYER,
B.A.
bit,
a series of f-inch
and a few beyond the centre towards him both sides to be alike, of course. Near the ends of the framework, still in the end facing the sitter, fasten, by means of rivets, the
the
sitter,
;
ends of strips of
flat
cash
\ inch thick. These must be about 15 inches long by 1 inch broad, and be perforated at the
loose end
he wished to dispose of any surplus but I had experience that it was far easier to get rid of, than to make, money by
do
so, if
;
patenting.
to allow of a
pin
made
At intervals down the nearest uprights of the framework bore holes of a corresponding size. It will at once be seen that as the rod which fastens the swing frame together at the top must also fix the awning, it will have to be 1 inch longer than where the awning is deemed superfluous. The holes which have been bored in the framework of the awning will allow of its being fixed at any point along its length, whilst
the metal strips will enable us to control the
I asked him, however, to make one of his wonderful knife-cleaning machines for me, and promised that I would give the benefit of his genius to the world through Amateur Work, if satisfaction. This it cleaned knives to my
pleased
if
he
sees
his
angle at
will.
me much
satis-
The awning may, of course, be made longer if deemed advisable but the dimensions given will
;
This cannot be
said of
be found fairly satisfactory, especially as the holes just described will enable him to so shift the
many
of
some of the revolving knife cleaners, which wear away the steel blades in
it
awning
as to
ward
off
was
of the day. If preferred, staples may replace the holes along the framework, and a sufficiently long
made by my
strip of metal.
works very well, I would not care to depart much from these dimensions. If the main features, however, are copied, the machine cannot be far
brother-in-law
;
and, as
it
The sketch gives the framework only, in order that the arrangement may be more visible but,
;
wrong.
may be seen, of two pieces of together at the ends with a strong hinged wood
It consists, as
97
The upper
piece
is
six
and
it
will
It is well to tack
formed
tacked to the opposing surfaces of the wood, 3 inches from the hinge, and it is between these
that the cleaning of the knife
be polished.
knife,
cheeks
The is done. any kind of wood, but my brother-in-law found a nice piece of birch dimensions, 3 feet 6 inches in my workshop by 2J- inches by 1 inch to be just the thing. I reasoned that deal would have done as well, but he said the birch was nicely planed and smooth, which would save him trouble. Having
we
may be made
of
put a small mortise in it towards the handle, and drove an iron peg into the lower one in such
a
way
that
it
vertical,
The cleaner
is
where
it
can be worked
viz.,
18
with ease.
was formed on
in this arrange-
leather
ment
is,
buff,
for instance
but
cleaned at once.
it is
as this was not forthcoming, harness leather about \ inch thick was declared practicable.
move the
this the
lever,
On
piece,
inches
by
7 inches,
was
These were being stretched tightly, and the tacks driven into the edges of The leather is 3 inches from the the wood.
required for the opposing pads.
downward pressure is exerted by the which, at the same time, cleans the top
;
now tacked
on,
the leather
is
confined
and
pull.
hinge at its nearest point. The hinge was then screwed on to the lower cheek with long screws, and the other cheek laid over it, until the leathers lay quite flat upon one another the remaining screws were then put to secure the hinge to the upper cheek, and the job was nearly done. To clean knives it is only necessary to spread some knife powder on the lower leather bring the upper one down, and press gently, when some of the powder will stick to it. The knife is then inserted between the leathers, and pushed from the point to the heel backwards and forwards for a few times,
; ;
will construct
hope many of the readers of this magazine one of these extremely simple and easily made knife cleaners, and that they will
it
find
as useful as I have.
An Excellent Wax Polish for wood is made by boiling a quarter of a pound of white wax
with one ounce of pearlash in a quart of water. It should be continually stirred while boiling and until thoroughly cool. It is applied
to the surface of
the
a velvet or plush rubber. A very high polish the result. B uilder and Woodworker
98
A WATCH-STAND IN TURNED
WORK.
By ROBERT W. COLE.
]HE
watch-stand
is
shown
1.
in its
com-
It consists
wood
so that
it
and
turn
its
is
quite level.
which
is
destined to contain
the watch, and which is supported on a stem about 4 inches long. The lower
end
of this
stem
is
fixed in
Then bore three holes, J inch in diameter, for the feet to fit into, and remove from the lathe. Next proceed turn to
the three feet.
These are
about
inch in diameter,
When
on three small turned feet. you have decided upon the kind of wood to
be used, commence the construction of the watch-stand with the circular base. This
should be about 4 inches in diameter and i inch thick,
each has a projecting stem J inch long and J inch in diameter, by which it is
fitted into the
base of the
watch-stand.
The stem
of
is
The
way
through
its
centre.
5 inches.
turned
diameter, so
into
way, and
is
less
than J inch in
as
is
diameter,
shown
in
flat
and
of
Fig. 2.
To do
face
of
this,
turn up
piece
We
make
will
now
proceed to
the
the
which you wood, from have just cut off the base, bore a until quite flat
;
pieces, is
hole
about
into
it
inch
in
3.
shown in Fig.
of
The
its
piece
diameter in
its centre,
ham-
mer
a piece of box-
SECTION
wood,
a,
is
3 inches in
diameter,
has
back
FIG. 2,
STEM
OF WATCH-STAND,
99
turned perfectly flat, and has its front side hollowed out J inch deep and 2h inches wide, and a hole, J inch in diameter, bored right
in Fig. 3.
into the hole
Then glue
f,
through its centre. A ring, e, is turned so as to fit into the hollowed out part of a, and
project slightly.
this
notch
ring,
f,
across
which
is
ring
of
is to
part of
it
the
watch
prevent
edges
of
a piece
plush, e,
from This
its place,
is
destined to be lined.
c, is
The
and glue a on
part of
d,
to the projecting
it
piece of wood,
2 inches in
turning
round until
is
when
J inch in diameter bored through its centre. Another hole of the same diameter is bored in an
oblique direction (see Fig.
its
3)
in
To Improve a Poor Negative and modify extremes of light and shade, cover the whole of
glass side of the negative with
the stem
is is
pin,
d,
any
a
turned, having
a knob at one
cold
Scrape
off
as
and its narrow part large enough to fit tightly into the holes in a and c, which it is
intended to fasten together.
piece of wood,
f,
much
and
if
of this
coating opposite
is
necessary,
A
is
turned as
into
a,
shown
in
Fig.
3, fits
the
in the negative a little Prussian blue water colour may be brushed over the varnish to
spots
circumference
of
and has a
still
small brass hook screwed into its middle, to which the chain
of the
watch
these
is to
When
five
been completed, get a piece of plush of a colour which will match nicely with the kind of wood which you have used in
the
construction of the watch-
through these parts. Of course this dodging has to be done with judgment, or the resulting print will be wanting in those very qualities of which it had an
excess
before.
in
If the
first
exis
periment
this
direction
may be
cleared off
and cut out of it a round piece large enough to fit evenly into the hole which you have
stand,
lated spirit
Photographic Scraps.
Magnesium
Powder,
without
Flash Light
chlorate
of
(Fig. 3),
and
it
potash.
tific
The Scien-
then
secure
American gives
gum
This
or
glue.
of
Magneof
piece
plush, fixed
its place,
is
in
reFIG.
I.
permanganate
potassium, 40
;
per-
presented by e
SIDE
100
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By THE EDITOR.
rather
larger
than the prints to be enamelled, wipe them well, rub them with talc, and remove the excess with a soft brush passed In a dish, half filled lightly over the surface. water, immerse the photographs, ordinary with and allow them to soak. This being done, coat one of the talcked plates with enamelling collodion in the ordinary way, agitate to cause the ether to evaporate, and when the film has set steep this that is to say, in a few seconds
OOD
Series
it
ENGRAVING
and
Co,
to
(Published
price
Is.
by
6d.)
Lockwood
another
Crosby Yet
addition
that
useful
series
of
technical works
"a
This little book is just what the author claims for thoroughly practical and easy introduction to the
and by
this means serving to lure the student on, by almost imperceptible degrees, till he haB acquired a full and thorough knowledge of the principles and practice
Anyone studying
this
work
in
now
being
published in
fail to
acquire
Now
take one of
first dish,
Pitkin
Lamp.
This
handy
and useful
Vol.
I.
lamp was
noticed
in
Amateur Work,
keeping the print in its place with the finger of the left hand, and remove the air bubbles by lightly rubbing the back of the
(New
photograph with the forefinger of the right hand. Care has been taken beforehand to prepare some very pure starch paste, passed through a cloth, and some thin cardboards, or simply thick paper the size of the plates used. The air bubbles having completely disappeared, and the perfect adherence of the print ascertained, dry with bibulous paper, and spread over the prepared cardboard on paper a coating
of the collodion
page 433. In consequence of that notice, several applications have been made for further particulars, and I am informed by Mr. T. Niblett that such applications should be addressed to 56, Red Lion Street, Clerkenwell, London, E. C, and not to the address
Series),
previously given.
Willcox Brothers, paper letter Road, London, send me specimens of paper letters of various sizes, designs, and colours. They are produced in sizes ranging from 4 inches to 24 incbes, at prices varying according to size, from 4d. to 6s. per dozen. The letters are well designed and well cut, and will be found useful for displaying on windows, numbers and names of houses on fanlights, banners, show
Letters.
tablets,
Paper
Messrs.
by means
on the
of
flat
brush.
school
notices,
festivals,
entertainments,
etc.
Apply
over
it it
this sheet
There
is
no
and give
At the expiration
by one
in
this
Buyer's Guide
Colchester,
names
of the
best
British
print will
come
off
itself.
We
get
fully
The
6d.
manner a very
that obtained
it
brilliant surface,
and
as solid as
Brazz-o-line. Mr. T. Birtwistle, 42, Belvedere Road, Burnley, has favoured me with a sample of lacquer for
by the use
of gelatine, which, as
done away with in this process. The prints are afterwards mounted on thick cardboard in the usual way. It is possible, by mixing with the collodion some methyl blue dissolved in alcohol (a few drops are sufficient),
is
seen, is entirely
of
is
darker in
easily applied
without special
article,
to
obtain
moonUght
of
effects,
especially
if
skill to every description of brass or gilt such as picture frames, brass ornaments, fenders, The preparation is supplied in bottles at fire-irons, etc.
Is.
been used.
For
2d.
and
2s. 9d.,
post free.
make use
an alcoholic solution in
coccinine.
for a photo
The Amateur for December contains an excellent design frame in painted fretwork.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
In further defence, I must tell you that some time ago I received a compli;
H,l
sion), to me also I will not bind myself to any given measurements, nor to engravers' mistakes (one of which
mentary letter from Captain Marshall Hall, a gentleman well known in higher
circles,
latter
Part
3,
p.
397,
lines
are
Criticism An Offer to the Readers of Captain Hall, who perished "Amateur Work." Arctic regions.
Jas. Scott writes
:
the
omitted).
"
Correspon-
Part 24) must kindly remember that he is but one among thousands of readers, and that because he does not relish certain articles, he
dent"
(p. 576,
make
my
custom to
During
the
past
fifty
two
years I have
different
designed over
sing one or
to follow suit
is
new and
articles,
man who
each posses-
more novel
features.
case, disguised
under
limited
of the articles of
alludes.
At
of
first
I thought I could
who was
on
his
jealous
my
encroaching
years' active
made
of different
The
following
"
pondent
;
has
and did not like then his eyes caught my combined it table, desk, and easel, and he could Therefore he stand no more of it.
folding table design,
was
sufficient
by doing
which
readers.
he
tends
to
prejudice
me
in
The very
his letter
tion
of
appearance of
my
table,
and
my
impression
To
have
acted
com- to an opinion at all. I have replied to which I you rather warmly, but my defence is in one scale, and your severe and detrihave satisfactorily dealt with. Very few designers can wield a work- mental hints in the other. Let us see man's tools they cannot give their which has most weight. time to the study of designing and Wire for Coil. physical practice as well but I am in G. I. Measure the entire diameter the habit of making small rough models, aHd made one of folding table, and of the coil bobbin, subtract from this' also of table, desk, and easel. The the diameter of the core and primary, Editor's desire was that I should con- multiply the mean of the remainder by tribute some papers through the new 314, and the answer will give you the Volume, and titles of several in view, length of one coil. Mark on a piece of more pleasant looking than those cardboard a space exactly 1 inch, fill already published in Asi.vtedk Work, this with coils of No. 34 wire, laid are included in the prospectus but he closely side by side, and note the would not care to stake the reputation number of coils to the inch. Multiply of his magazine if such statements as this by the exact length of the wire yours reach him. You name several space between the bobbin ends, and gentlemen whose productions you this sum by the length of one coil this admire, and I will live in hopes of will give you the length of wire on being included in the list but I will one layer multiply this length by the total of the diameter, or rather by the tell you that I value neither censure nor praise, except as a business matter, number of coils which will go into this, and you will obtain the total length of from you. To set all doubts at rest, I have a the secondary wire on your coil. G. E. proposition to make. If any reader Bichromate v. Bunsen Cell. has started, or contemplates starting,
five
yours included,
all of
some extent. G. I. The E. M. P. of a bichromate making either my folding table, or In defence of my reputation, I wish table, desk, and easel, or both, I of potash cell having carbon opposed to tell him that some months ago a entreat him to proceed, first fixing an to zinc is nearly two volts, whatever reader of a contemporary complained estimated value on his production when the size of the cell may be. The E. M. of the impracticability of the construc- completed. He is to follow my instruc- F. of a Bunsen cell is from 1'80 to P90 It therefore follows that the tion of an article which he contemplated tions in those papers, and if he reaches volts. making from one of my designs, and a point impracticable, I will pay him bichromate cell gives a current of wrote me to that effect. I replied, and his estimated value of the article as if higher force than that of a Bunsen
pointed out his errors; and, as a fact,
only the day previous to reading your letter I received one from him, wherein
it
had been
cell.
The
internal
strength
of
the
current
to retain
I see
no reason
resistance,
and
this rises
he stated that he had completed the article satisfactorily, and was well pleased with it and, in addition, had made another article from another of my designs the value of the two
;
why
if
I am in the right. There are one or two things I stipulate for anyone in- when the
:
both when the circuit is closed. As the bichromate cell quickly polarises
in
circuit
is
must
at first send his name and address, the Bunsen, and its strength of current through the Editor (with his permis- becomes proportionately less. G. E.
VOL.
III.
(N.S.)
102
AMATEURS IN
COUNCIL.
Dressing Table and Washstand. upon which the drawers will E. M. (Heywood). As you only run should be joined to desire an ordinary dressing table and pedestal sideboards as at c washstand, such as are sold at furniture in Fig. 4. Matchboard,
M.
have not striven to give you anything particularly fresh in appearance although the design given herewith is to be preferred to one representing the dressing table, as having one or
dealers', I
;
will nailed, screwed or answer for the backboards of these parts. Table top could be made as shown in Fig. 6 one board being Bcrewed to more boxes or drawers on each side of the carcase, and the extreme the table at the ends the latter being top one being glued to the FIG. a very common pattern indeed. I former. It will be preferable shall presume that you are sufficiently to have the top brackets and well acquainted with wood manipulation the backboard of the top to need no further instructions than a drawers composed of one entire piece, to which will be framing, and secured there by means screwed the top shelf with of a backboard. The Bame will apply round corners. A narrow to the tiles of the washstand, which
;
article I will
now note.
It is frequently
is
constructed
match the table, i.e., it has pedestals containing drawers but a table, on the lines shown in Fig. 2, is sometimes form of joint (tongue) shown the best form. There is something in at B, Fig. !3 the groove in the appearance presented by square
;
legs that
admire, but
it
is
hardly
accommodate it being worked necessary to point out that turned from the back to within a ones will answer the purpose as suffishort distance
of
the front
ciently well.
To
the
leg
blocks will
forming a be joined a J or f-inch framing at solid job when all is put to- sides and back, about 5 or 6 inches gether, and not defacing the deep, as in Fig. 7. At the bottom of wood. Between the brackets the framing will be screwed a rail, as will swing a mortised and in Fig. 8. At the front, an upper and tenoned frame containing a a lower rail will be tenoned to the leg mirror ; on the top rail of the blocks, with a middle division to receive frame being screwed a mould- the drawers. Join cross rails to these ing and pediment. No doubt framings, at sides and middle, to act as you will understand the con- draw runners. Top will be merely a
moulding,
thus
struction
of
the
drawers.
FIG.
I.
Shaped
here
will
pieceB glued
and
note or two
joints
there
best
forms of
describe
plinth of
improve appearance.
You
To
The
these I
now
proceed.
the
each pedestal of
dressing
will observe that I show an open space at the bottom table of each pedeBtal. In some
should consist of four boards about 4J inches deep, and, say, i inch thick,
dovetailed to each other, with a board,
instances these
are
to
be
or four-cornered framing,
side to
top, and, to add strength, from carry the backboard down their tops, as shown in Fig. 3, in which and screw to under-carcase, as in Fig. 5. The movediagram, B is the board or framing these parts will be further strengthened ments upon which the glass by screwing boards (a) to the outside will swing you can purin-
joined
them
at a little distance
plinth boards.
The
pair of pedestals
You will, of and middle drawer should be made as founders. understand that one complete carcase, to which will be course, screwed from underneath board B the glass is held in posiThe divisions tion in a rebate on the (Fig. 3) the pliuths.
AMATEURS IN
framing with pediment and brackets screwed to it A marble mason will drill holes through the marble, in order that it may be screwed to all top parts. Suitable dimensions are, each, 3 feet 6 inches long, 23 inches high ; 18 inches from back to front glass (outside), 18 inches by 24 inches top boxes, 4 or 5 inches deep; tiles, 6 inches square, each legs, 2 inches thick.
; ;
;
COUNCIL.
nesberg
103
from the description given by " Johan"
cork in a bottle, and be as tight. Be sure and use brass screws throughout
in
in
the October
number
;
of
J. S.
Fitting
proceed
as
follows
First
arrange
deck-
the
a cutter, about 2 or 3 inches abaft mast will do but in case you should at any time think of altering
;
it
will be as well
sible. A convenient size is about 3 by 4J inches an oval one looks best, but as an oblong one will be the easiest to fit, I will describe that. Place the beams 4J inches apart after fitting on
;
;
model making. The cork can be Amateur Work, although his method procured by getting some good sound I have little doubt is correct but as wine-bottle corks, and cutting with a " variety is the spice of life," I now forsharp knife or write to a dealer in ward what I had written as an answer natural history or entomological sun- to you. You are in error in one or two dries for a sheet. It is sold in sheets things: your paper, judging by the about 8 inches by 12 inches by ^ inch specimen sent me, is not what it should thick. Keep a small piece of sponge in be for making blue prints. A hard, the model, then if it should leak a little smooth paper should be employed, so you can easily put your hand in and that it wilt not absorb more chemical mop it up. Another wrinkle Procure than required. We use Hyperion satin a bullock's bladder at the butcher's, paper, which is manufactured in France, clean and put it in the model, blow it, and doubtless can be obtained in Engtie tight, put on the hatch, and then land. Secondly, you have exposed your you can defy the elements for if the print too long (or it appears so), and batch should by any possibility come have what is known as "burnt" it. I off, sufficient water could not get in to enclose a few samples of the aforesaid sink your ship. I remember once in a paper, so that you may be guarded in gale of wind trying a yacht previous to the future. Wishing you success, I a race, when in the middle of the pond will now annex what I wrote before I (a very large one) she suddenly van- received your query. ished presently I thought I saw just Ferro-Prussiale Paper, as made in the the top of the mast and the end of the
; :
;
States.
bowsprit
she
gradually
drifted
in,
the deck, cut ont a hole 3 by 4i inches, fix on the deck, then fit between the
beams 2 pieces of mahogany ih inches long, J inch square, screw from the
top of the deck with a screw in each eDd flush with the edges of the hole then fit on the top of the deck 4 pieces
of
mahogany, about J
;
inch square,
and screw the two end pieces through the deck and into the beams, the side ones into the fore and aft pieces. This bladder. forms a good strong hatchway the top Blue Printing Process.
found the hatch had not been (it was fitted differently to that described above, having a thin brass bar over it, so that it could not come unshipped) she had filled and settled down by the stern, but as the hatch could not come off, I surmised that sufficient air remained in the bow to prevent her from going to the bottom but if I had had a bladder in, she would have kept on a pretty even keel, though the freeboard would have been diminished. Moral Don't forget the
I
when
I was
berg's
much
properly put on
description
prussiate paper.
here (Chicago,
and
give
large
city,
a short description as to how a manufacturing concern in this with whom I was connected some-
The two formulas they used when I was with them, two years since, was as
follows.
prints,
b, gives
the
of red potash.
hatch-combings.
get a piece of
Now
for the
hatch
ammonium.
Work
for
(Vol. II.) you gave instructions working the blue printing process. I procured the chemicals, and have tried
to
of red potash
lj
oz. of citrate
iron of
ammonium.
the edges, which will project J inch all round the combing. Form this into a
make
known
can
as
Hyperion
J see
not correct.
and
It
be
inch by inch edgeways ; mitre the corners, put two screws into each piece from the top side, fix them so that they
are
me
the reason of
my
little
doubt.
is
made
in
in
various
widths, and in
It
Work
an ounce
can
be
bought
Ills.,
country
\ inch
less all
size
of each is given as the quantity, but I was unable to get a copy with that."
from
Street,
Eugene Dietgen,
Chicago,
76,
is
Deraborn
the sole
who
made up by
;
fixing
When
varnish strips of cork a full inch thick glasspaper smooth after fasten-
strange as
may
of U.S. readers.
Instead of
short article on
vastly different
make
it
fit
like
paper on the chemical, they put the chemical on the paper with a sponge, commencing in one of
104
the upper corners of the sheet, and
using'
all
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
a rapid
sheet
circular
is
motion
until
material, brown-paper and glue, you can make a very presentable cover.
Soldering Iron.
No Name.
question,
built
With
it
respect
to your
the
covered.
They then
Composition of Celluloid.
"J. A." (Creioe), asks
readers of
if
some
of the
paper) squeeze all surplus liquid from sponge, and draw same heavily and
itraightly
Amateur
Work
will tell
him
answer,
No
cannot.
You might
as
how
well say,
slices
Can I
bread?
it is
down
Care
made.
of
You
had
little
Switch for Electric Bell. G. I. A two-way switch, with wires selecting the sponge see that it contains connected as those shown in annexed no small shells, or they will scratch rough diagram, will suit your purpose. your paper, and make unsightly marks, One wire from the bell B is connected to which naturally spoils the appearance the stud A on the switch s, whilst the of the finished blue print. other wire from the bell goes to the After washing, they hang the print battery c. Prom the other terminal of up by means of patent American clothesthe battery, a line wire goes to the pins, small wooden clips, which can be pivot of the lever or arm, l, on the bought at any house furnishing store here in America, and can, I understand, be bought in England at most hardware dealers, for one penny, or two cents eachThese clips are screwed to square strips of wood, one inch in thickness, and, of
surface.
should
;
be
taken
in
probably
I
too small,
and
will not
.
a short article, dealing simply and clearly with the subject, if L. L. the Editor thinks it advisable.
Light Canoe to Carry One Person. I sent your inquiry to P. Bennett. Captain Anthony Weale, who replies: " I can refer your correspondent to Mr. J. H. Milne's remarks on ' Canoe Making in
'
w~
^e
M
s
tL
Amateur Work, -Part S, May, 1890. There are many ways of making canoes. The skeleton of a boat could be made by
a basket-maker of flight
twigs,
very different as
something: like a
lit 30 inches wide by 36 inches long, and 'III' work to be much more c had rollers affixed to them, which ran open, then covered with m a groove track, but theirs were on a No. 4 or 6 canvas, and large scale, and the size and weight switch. A branch line from the Morse coated with paint or varnish at 2s. a an amateur's demanded a track, and for Dimensions, instruments, II, to the bell wire on one gallon (ship's varnish).
clothes-basket,
but
the
2 feet broad, 1^ feet would stand any amount of showing how I made a blue for this instrument when the bell is moving, and could be taken anywhere print frame, which is very similar to American white elm thrown out. An additional arm on the by one person. that used by them, and I feel sure it pivot at h will place both instruments on is a nice wood for working the gunwill fill an amateur's requirements to a wale, as it will bend like whalebone circuit at the same time if required. nicety, and the print will, I think, come when steamed. Ash also bends easily." G.E. up to, if not Burpass, his expectations. Building a Greenhouse. Dulcimer Fittings. To an impecunious person homeLeslie W. Robertson (Enfield). In Lighthouse. Music wire and fittings made blue prints are a great boon, as Vol. I. (Old Series), page 193, you may be had of T. Dawkins & Co., they charge 10 cents, or od., per foot for will find " A Small Greenhouse for Charterhouse Street, Holbom Viaduct. making prints here so I now prepare Amateurs." In Vol. II. of the same I am not sure about prices, but think my own paper, also make my own series, page 118, " Heating Apparatus steel wire is 2s. 8d. per pound, in 2 or H. J. W., Chicago, Ills. prints. for Small Greenhouses," and in Vol. II. 4 ounce hanks hitch pins, 6d/per lb. [If 0. W. Smithson will enclose a (New Series), page 460, you will find turning pins, about 3d. per doz. I stamped addressed envelope, I will full instructions for making Greenhouse think you had better ask for zither forward the samples of paper referred Sashes.
long,
acquiescence)
sketch
side, and to the other stud of the switch 6 feet and on the other side, will provide a circuit deep.
It
description,
to. Ed.]
Index to Amateur Work.
George
is
(Sidcup).
Your
plan
tuning pins and tuning key, or hammer, Castings for Hand Planing Machine. Tell to fit, price of which is about Is. R. R. The castings and forgings of the warehouseman what the fittings are hand planing machine may be obtained for, and you will be served well. from Mr. Thos. Taylor, Chester Street, B. A. B.
Hulme, Manchester, and those for band LETTERS RECEIVED UP TO DEC. 5. and after all is little, if any, drilling machines from Mr. J. Reside, Camera; P. C; No Name; P. M. method adopt Brighoiise, Torks. also than the I of Rastrick, See better Crutch ; Bronchy ; W. Askeeping all the indexes in a volume by page 532, Vol. I. (New Series). The McKie A. G. Hay ward E. N. T. themselves. You can get the indexes latter gentleman also supplies planing ton P. B. Griffith G.E. Roburt Taylor R.R. by buying the November part of each machine castings nearly the same. (Portlaw, Ireland) Police (India). and with Lancaster blind Electron. volume",
a good one, but involves a lot of
trouble,
; ; ; ;
ZLL.UST
ATED
i.
Series.)
FEBRUARY,
2 caleo|, fer
2
3*36
'Iqefyes
Spindle
.full
sue
ttjtti
1 4
'
Head.
Foot..
I
Double
full
frame
immmmi
Corner-piece: fretwork
%
Corner-piece
:
wood-carving
Triple frame
fpWO "pHOTO-pnAne,
Ward. Lock *
Co..
by "Semper p.Aehs
Lonoon.
New Yon*
*no
Melbourne.
M.
wm
HO W TO MAKE A STEP-LADDER.
105
HOW
Wt
TO
MAKE A STEP-LADDER.
By
J.
L DWTER, B.A.
N
I
we have
had my choice of wood, however, I think I would take larch, than which there is no tougher or more durable timber for the purpose. The sides of my ladder, which are ten feet long, are Z\ inches wide and \\ inches thick, and the cleats which compose the rungs are 2 inches by 1^ inches. The length of these cleats, which is
]-~ ,p$f ]a
j
of the relative
When
an inch
less
FIG.
we
the
see a
air,
hodman or mason swaying high up in upon the rungs of a very weak and
we
are impressed with the as
it
slight-looking ladder,
\
conviction
that,
simple
looks, the
step-
but would, perhaps, be more suitable. The space between each step is just a foot, i.e., the distance from the upper edge of one cleat to
the upper edge of
ten inches apart
the
next.
Sometimes the
When
to
the
wood
it
procured, the
the corners.
in
first
thing
do
is
to clean
and
The
cleats
probably be purchased
to clean
would be wise
The
up,
similar line
may
insure accuracy.
Some good stout nails, 3 inches long, must now be procured, with which to attach the steps to the sides. The best kind for the purpose would >
undoubtedly, be wrought nails, but they are and a very good substitute is rather expensive
;
pFIG.
IN.
to
can possibly
made. In this short paper I will describe how two orts of ladders can be made the first by riling cleats to the sides, and the second by sing a sawn pole and the ordinary rungs. I have now in my possession a very nice light kdder of my own construction, which I will kke as a model for my first. It is all made of |hite deal, without a knot or shake throughout, Fhich is an important thing in a ladder. If I
;
be found in a superior sort of cut nail which under the name of "Canadian nails," I buy I think. As the nails come so near the ends of the cleats, these latter must be bored to prevent splitting, the best tool for the purpose being a
small shell bit with a brace
of course,
;
a gimlet would,
it
answer as
well,
but
is
tiresome to
use for a long time. The holes should be bored so that they will not enter the same grain of
If the lower one be bored \ i ncn from the end, and \ inch from the lower edge of a cleat, and the upper \ inch from the upper K
the sides.
Vol. III.
(New
Series).Part 27.
106
BO IV TO MAKE A STEP-LADDER.
;
edge, and an inch from the end, it will do famously there will thus be two nails at each end of the cleats. Taking now a cleat in one hand, and placing
it
may
appear above it, a nail may be driven at each end into the sides. If there is any tendency to split, these may be bored, as the cleats were.
The top cleat may be affixed in a similar manner, the top line appearing just above it likewise. The square must now be brought into requisition, and the work manipulated until the steps are square with both sides of the
During all this time we are supposed have the work lying flat on the bench or floor. "When the two cleats are square with the
ladder.
to
sides, other nails may be driven through the second holes, taking care to verify the squareness of the work after each is driven home.
is weaker than if the whole length of the bar For were diminished to the same extent. instance, if the saw cut at a (Fig. 1) were an inch deep, the ladder would be weaker than if the sides were made of stuff an inch thinner. The reason is obvious. The deflection under strain which, in the one case, would be distributed throughout the entire length, and make only a gentle curve, would, in the other case, all run to the weak part, and cause it to snap off. A uniform rod of ash may be bent almost to a circle, but if one part is nicked, it will snap off long before it can be bent to the same extent. If a ladder of more than 12 or 13 feet be required, it is better to make it with the ordinary rounds or rungs, the sides being made of a This will require to be straight and larch pole. tapering, not too thick, and certainly and
When
full
For a ladder 30
base
may
complement
would not
nailed in
may now be
is little
be from 4 J to 5 inches in diameter, and the top from 2^ to 3-J-. The pole having been selected, should be sawn straight through the centre from It is important that both sides end to end.
should be of the same strength, otherwise one will bend more than the other, and have a
but there
chance of
When
satisfactorily
secured,
their ends
may be
couple of coats of
and handy ladder. I find that the nails alone are amply sufficient to hold the rungs in place, and I never trouble myself about anything farther. It is not unusual, however, to see ladders having their sides notched for the steps, as shown in Fig. 1 If this plan be adopted, the notches should be very shallow, and the lower or inner corner rounded. It would be a fatal mistake to let the saw go
.
throw the ladder round ; any slight sawn sides can be removed in This can well be the subsequent cleaning. performed with a jack-plane, the spokeshave being sometimes brought into requisition but the less the latter is used the better. The saw marks on the flat side will be removed with thi plane, and the edges between the semicircular and flat sides of each rounded nicely off leavin no splinters to hurt the hands afterwards. When all this has been done, both sides are to be tiedj
tendency
to
difference in the
together,
face
to
face
in
the
position
they^
the boring
may be
centre
done.
the,'
To do
cut in
this,
its
quite horizontal,
and th
marks
should
be
equidistan'
none
done b from measuring half the circumference of the pol where each rung comes, halving that again, an placing the mark for the auger that distant
This can easily be
its
The
ii
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
107
at
each side
it
of the hole.
They should be wedged, when in place, with hard wood wedges, a chisel first making an opening. These wedges will be across the
ladders, lest they should split the sides.
may vary somewhat, but ^ inch or inch does admirably. Leaving now the sides, we may prepare the rungs. These are of hard wood, ash or oak the centre is from \\ inches to 1 \ inches in diameter, and they taper from that to the ends
The
size of the holes
and plane
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
By
R. A. R. BENNETT, B.A., President of the Photographic Section, Oxford Natural History Society.
A hole
with the same auger that bored the sides, and this used as a gauge with which to test the ends
of the rungs.
When
Films for Transparencies A Lamp Shade Films A Hall Lamp Transferotype Ivory Lamp Globes Cups Plates Opals Paper Opal Enlargements Printing on Fabric Novel Method of Decorating Chair-back.
parallel for
pass.
sufficient
ILMS make
and
defect
An
obvious result
them too tight would be to split the which would be a terrible disaster. Having the rungs all prepared, it would be well to decide whether stay rods will be used. These resemble iron rungs, and are made of |-inch iron, having collars bearing against the inner surfaces of the sides, and nuts outside, to prevent them equally from going apart or coming together, although the latter is not a very likely contingency. These bars are usually placed a couple of inches under a rung, and there are two one near the top, and one near the bottom. In long ladders an intermediate one In Fig. 2, I show a stay is sometimes put in. Holes may be bored for the stay rods at rod. the same time as for the rungs. Stay rods sometimes take the place of rungs. The upper side may now be taken off, and the rungs driven
of having
sides,
of too
shadows
never
With
easily be made if need a metal frame to hold the transparencies, and the glass must not fit the frame too tightly, or the heat, causing it to expand, may break the glass. Perhaps for the ordinary amateur it is easier to construct one of films, the only difficulty being that the films have a slight tendency to cockle, owing to the heat but when cold they straighten again, and the lamp shade can be folded up as usual, the films not interfering with it in any way. To make a lamp shade thus, procure or make one of very thick cardboard (or even zinc or tin would answer, and keep the film s from cockling), composed of, say, six pieces of the following shape (Fig. 5) now cut holes in each side a little smaller than the transparencies to
splendid
with glass
will
each rung being pulled opposite the corresponding hole. If ropes be tied round the ladder at
intervals,
side put in
be inserted (as shown at a, b, c, d in the Fig.) Of course, the holes can be any shape, but do not have them too large, or there will not be enough strength in the frame to keep the films
straight.
and short sticks passed through so as them up like the straining cord of a bow saw, the sides can be brought gently together, and with occasional assistance from a heavy hammer and bit of wood, no great trouble will be found in bringing the rungs home.
to twist
The
films of
may be the
ordinary negative
any brand with which the reader can get good results. They can be fastened on the inside of the frame, by simply glueing the edges to the frame, and sticking tape over them all round. Of course all this is
celluloid films,
108
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
;
invisible
of the shade.
it is
Put
as
duced, viz., that which goes by the name of " ivory films " though they are really celluloid,
it
cannot be helped,
These were, I
believe,
who knows
the
places.
If films
from
by Mr. E. H. Eitch, of 34, Angell Road, Brixton, London, S.W. later on, they have been made by the Ery Manufacturing Co., 5, Chandos Street, Covent Garden, E.C. The latter I have tried with great success in fact, it is one of the most striking processes I know of, and the films lend themselves well to artistic decoration. Wi1h an average negative the exposure would be about 6 to 10 seconds
; ;
FIG. 5.
SHAPE
the celluloid side, and the picture will then be reversed as required. Or the " Autotype strip-
ping plates," sold by the Autotype Company, Brownlow Road, Ealing Dene, W., are made expressly for the purpose of producing negatives capable of printing reversed positives. You can varnish the films to protect them from injury the best varnish for the purpose is simply an old celluloid film with the gelatine taken off (by
;
FIG.
4 feet
is
formula
as follows
of
Hydroquinone, 5 grains
(pure
means
and a
stiff
brush), cut
up
carbonate
grains
;
potash
anhydrous),
;
15
into shreds,
and dissolved in as little methylated this spirits as possible to form a thick varnish can be applied cold, and soon dries. When
;
sulphite of
soda, 20 grains
distilled
water, 1 ounce.
To each ounce
of this
add 3 to bromide of
is
obviously cellu-
potassium.
tive is
I give an illustration of a
6).
On taking
new
after exposure,
109
no
air-hells are
the colour has departed, the film is once more thoroughly washed, to get rid of traces of acid, and then dried. I always find when drying them
up to such an extent that it is keep them in an ordinary draining rack, as used for negatives. They can be placed
that they curl
difficult
to
when
they
FIG. 8.
CUP
ORNAMENTED BY TRANSFEROTYPE.
up they are best removed and placed film side upwards on a table when dry, they will in most cases become flat again. These films are beautiful objects looked through at the light, and they could be used for the lamp shade instead of negative films, with very good effect in fact, they have the additional
; ;
ferrous
may be
;
oxalate, or
the image
Development must go on
till
the full
look rather dark. When finished, the film is taken out and put into the fixing solution (hyposulphite of soda,
1
ounce
water,
ounces)
which may be known by the yellow colour of the film disappearing. Let it remain in the fixing bath for five minutes after this, and then wash in successive changes
until thoroughly fixed,
FIG.
advantage of showing
off
by daylight
get,
as well as
when
the lamp
is
the February
FIG. 9.
PLATE
ORNAMENTED
BY TRANSFEROTYPE.
1884 (page 167, Volume III.), will find therein an account of making a hall lamp with very simple materials. Now, instead of using painted glass, "byssofor
Amateur Work
phanie,"
of cold water;
etc.,
as there described,
of
permanence, according to
may have
ment
;
if
may be
1
your transparencies with much more In this case, as the source of telling effect. illumination is comparatively small, you had better back the transparencies with ground glass, or the form of the light shows too much
some
of
water, 80
in this
ounces
sulphuric acid,
ounce.
While
wool
;
what one wants being a general illumination over the whole surface of the glass. The
measurements given in the article can, of course, be easily altered to take i-plates or whole plates,
tuft of cotton
when
110
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
as may be desired, or a transparency larger than the size given can be easily cut with a diamond on the glass side, and then bent sharply, so as
to cut
it off.
I said just now that the film side of the plate must be placed outwards. There is I
only one method of obviating this of which know, namely, by using the " transferotype paper," introduced by the Eastman Com-
enough clearing solution to flow easily over the when it has been on it for a minute, pour it off, and pour on a fresh quantity repeat this a third time, and the print will be sufficiently cleared. It is then rinsed in pure water, and fixed in a bath of hyposulphite of soda, 3 ounces; water, 16 ounces where it remains for
print
; ; ;
ten
minutes.
After
fixing,
the
ia
pany, 115, Oxford Street, London, W. This very ingenious process is in frequent demand
transparencies, etc.; but at the same one can use ordinary plates, or transparency plates, one can obtain better results.
time,
if
to
for
making
obtain a reversed picture, which is what we want in the case of the lamp shade mentioned above. The film of this paper is the same as that of the Eastman bromide paper, and it can therefore be developed with any ordinary
we
developer
its
transferring
it
developed with,
Their formula
1
is
No.
48
ozs.
1.
;
Oxalate
;
of potash,
to
1
No.
acid,
2.
Proto-sulphate
of
iron,
lb.
hot
water, 32 ozs.
acetic acid, \
drachm
1 oz.
(or citric
\ No.
oz.).
3.
Bromide
of potassium,
water,
32 ozs.
come off with as little trouble as possible r any resistance may cause a rupture, and spoil the picture. For this reason no alum bath must be used, nor any developer, such as hydroquinone, which has a hardening effect on the film, and would tend to keep paper and film
-
about to develop, take 6 ounces of No. to it 1 ounce of No. 2, and \ drachm of No. 3 wait till the solutions are cold before mixing. The paper is exposed to a gas or candle
1,
When
together.
and add
;
flame behind a negative, just as in the case of ordinary bromide paper when exposed, it is placed in a dish of cold water for a few minutes,
;
and is then placed in the mixed developer. The image should then come out slowly, and should have plenty of contrast in it. When the shadows are black enough, pour off the developer, and put the print into a clearing bath composed of acetic acid, 1 drachm water, 32 ounces. The print must not be washed between these baths, as the action of the acetic acid is to remove traces of iron in the print, and prevent possible precipitation by water. Use
to
it,
;
soak
I have never found the slightest difficulty in working this process, but I hear that sometimes it is rather difficult to get the film to come off entire. I simply leave the print on till quite dry, and then pour hot water from a jug over it till the paper becomes raised then a slight pull or two brings it off. The temperature of the water needs attention; it must be from 160 to 180 Fahrenheit, or, if only half an hour has been allowed for drying, the temperature should be 130 Fahrenheit, and successive portions of water, becoming hotter and hotter, should be poured over the paper until it blisters. This;
household decoration of
all
Ill
each time,
to the
or, if
is
and saucers, almost anything can be decorated, and the effect, if care be taken, is generally very
Plaques, lamp-glasses,
cups
good.
Lamp
mented with
direction only,
welL
give an illustration of
There
articles,
is
one
slight
difficulty
about
these
back of the frame by some substance, elastic glue," which can be easily removed when the printing is finished a rag dipped in spirit of turpentine will remove the last traces of the glue. The opal when printed is toned and fixed in a similar way to ordinary silver paper prints, the fixing bath being 2 ounces hypo in one pint of water. A rather strong toning bath is necessary to obtain purple tones, and the printing must be carried on till the picture is darker than is actually required, to allow for subsequent
such as "Prout's
;
and that is that cups and plates, if to be used, must be occasionally washed ! This, of course, would ruin the transferotype at once, and has to be guarded against by coating the transferred picture with " dammar varnish," which is easily obtained from any chemist, and can be simply painted over the
they
are
picture with a brush.
bleaching.
all
those
is
hardened by being baked in an oven for some hours, and the object will then bear washing for a short time, at all events. Two or three
coats of varnish
might be put on with advantage. Care must be taken that the oven is not too hot, or the varnish will be burnt brown, and spoil the
look of the picture.
which I have given for prints or opalines, and look more ornamental, though they are also more expensive to make. If preferred they can be made into very handsome drawing-room ornaments, by inserting them in plush frames, which are easily made or can be bought. Enlargements can also be made on opals covered with more sensitive emulsion those called the "Snowdrift" opals, made by Percy Lund k Co., St. John Street, Bradford, Torks, are to be printed in daylight as with silver paper others, such as the " Ilford " opals
; ;
made by
the
Britannia
Works
Co.,
Ilford,
Amateurs who work the Autotype process could easily use the paper on which the prints are made, in just the same way as the transferotype paper of course transferring the gelatine film to the article to be decorated first, and then
;
London, E., are coated with a similar emulsion to dry plates, and are developed in the same way. The " Platinotype " process, which is be-
developing with hot water as usual. Opah are becoming such familiar objects in the shops, that there is no need to give any explanation as to what they are. However, the intrinsic value of an opal with a photo of one's
it, is so far above that of a stock subject purchased at a shop, that it is well worth while to purchase the opal ready prepared, and finish it oneself. The emulsion is printed in exactly the same way as ordinary silver paper, but each time of examining it, it is necessary to take
coming more and more popular, on account of the beauty of its results and their permanence, may be used to ornament one's drawing-room This work is very suitable for in various ways. lady amateur photographers, of which there are no doubt some amongst the readers of Amateur
own on
Work.
be obtained without
type Company, 29,
from the PlatinoSouthampton Eow, High Holborn, London,W.C. and here it is therefore
;
admit of being bent. The best plan to get it back always into the same position, is either to push opal and negative into the corner of the frame
it
will not
platinum instead of silver. The image is barely visible before development, but when this is performed, it is of a perfectly black colour, and
112
is
permanent
for
all
practical
purposes.
Now
unattacked by
any
is if
FRANK
S.
MORTON.
Series) C.
chemicals with which it is likely to meet, it evident that materials other than paper,
Roe
washing.
In
this
way many
additions
may be
;
made to
a comprehensive description I of a negative draining and drying rack. do not intend to suggest any improvement on this rack, as it is of a very convenient style, and is just what every amateur should have
gives
room
or dinner-table,
may
easily
be made by
of
Amateur Work
procuring suitable fabric ready sensitised from the Company, or sensitizing it for oneself. The
immersed in a bath of and to do this I use two pieces of wood T shape, one of which has bent pins inserted in the cross piece, with which the fabric can be " gripped " the other is merely
fabric
is
when
printed on
;
FIG.
I.
THE
RACK COMPLETE.
who,
while
being
used
as
it
down
for
if
any part remains out of the solution it will not be developed, which will spoil the appearance of the picture. A piece of fabric with several pictures jirinted on it makes a great impression on the beholder
travels
it,
through
handling tools, but who could perhaps manufacture a simpler and more easily
not adepts at
constructed rack.
For the
described.
when being
developed,
as
it
and comes
brown paper
under the negative. The fabric can be doubled to go into the frame, a different place being in front for each negative the creases, however, rather mar the effect when finished, and the fabric is liable to fray into holes where it has been creased. Many other ways of making use of Photography as a means of decorating furniture will
;
FIG.
IN POSITION.
two strips of wood, one foot, and J inch square, with notches \ inch deep and 1 inch wide cut in them These strips, with the notches in 1 inch apart.
It consists simply of
or longer, as desired,
line,
by means
1
of
For example,
in the late
Mr.
W.
B.
cross-pieces
Fig.
shows the
film side
it
Woodbury's house, the backs of the dining-room chairs were ornamented with portraits, instead
of the usual pieces of carving or medallions,
affair complete.
back until
its
every one of the family being expected at meal time to occupy that chair on which his or her
likeness appeared. I give an illustration of the
1
The number
is
of
negatives the
limited only
by
length and
all
number
of notches.
Any and
sizes of
0) treated in this
manner.
negatives can be held in it. Fig. 2 shows the rack partly filled with negatives.
REPAIRS.
The
113
AMATEUR
or without an air-chamber.
latter is useful
which has
gas
jet,
be used.
Whichever medium
HIS
fejjJSJjl
paper Ailateuk
object of
is
as a certain
amount of practice in using the flame is necessary. As it is probable that the former will, in
nearly
fit
towards the direction indicated, and also in the hope that a more advanced contribution, from the hands of a thoroughly practical jeweller,
all cases,
to
may be
up the proper apparatus. An ordinary gas jet, from its rushing source, is inadmissible. Procure some ordinary indiarubber tubing, with, by preference, the internal wire lining, and
having attached
it
The author
of
to the gas-burner,
bring the
short article
is
other end
down
to a of
also perfectly
ready
one foot
length
more
will-
contribuwill
Each end
of this tub-
and
of pipe
point out,
either
HANDY
first
ARRANGEMENT OF GAS
lashing
left
alluded to
JET.
is
better
attached
thing
knowledge of soldering. This can be read up in the past pages of this magazine, but it is only in a few instances that "soft" or tin soldering is admissible. The joint, so treated, cannot of necessity retain the high polish of which a proper union is capable, and though this form of joint may be of use occasionally in silver,
in
fact,
if
it
is
permanently fixed. of this pipe must be cut off sloping at an angle of about 30. Next procure a small lidless box, such as a stout cigar box, of about 6 inches deep, turn it over, and on to the bottom attach by screws two small strips of brass, or stout wire, so placed in the centre line of the bottom that the brass piping can be held horizontally about 1 inch from the wood, and the sloping mouth-piece will then project beyond the
inverted bottom of the box, as at a, Fig.
1.
by The end
wire
will eat
away the
requisite
of gold
filagree work.
The
first
necessary in the
way
of
wig "
This wig
in the left
extremely
hand, small objects, such as lockets, brooches, etc., can be laid upon it, like a miniature table, and the work to be soldered thus brought very conveniently,
when held
arrangement the jet can be readily moved about on the bench, and the gas being turned down to a moderate-sized flame, all "rushing" is avoided. In attempting any work of this kind, the reader should bear in mind that his materials, rather than the tools, are expensive, and therefore he will do well
this
By
not to waste
practical
much
silver or gold
metal in the
The
on
manipulation
may be
acquired
and
pipe
jet.
The blow-pipe
and
of indispensable
holding keys.
requisition,
may be
with
114
REPAIRS.
Cut with your tin sheet shears a an inch deep along one edge, and about of an inch apart this will give the appearance of a rough and ready comb. Then cross-cut these " teeth " again at similar distances, thus producing small grains or " pallions " of solder; keep some of these in a small pill-box, ready for use. Obtain a small piece of borax and a piece of slate, about the size of half-a-crown, then a fine camel-hair brush or "pencil." As an instance, we will endeavour to solder the link of a broken key or
sixpence.
series of cuts, say half
by withdrawing the blow-pipe a little, get a broader and more spreading blast, -which will make not only the work round the joint red hot, but also the wires of the wig; thus the work is properly heated in a hot surrounding, and by
finally
the solder,
will soon
will usually
A little practice
one side
other,
show where the heat is, and it can be care being taken to any given spot
and
making a union. In
amateur has
practising
upon a
small
steel
curb chain.
lie
The
joint
must,
of
work by
if
and
will
if
the
have to use iron binding wire, a coil of which should always be kept by, "handy" for use. It is wire prepared on purpose, and while admitting of freedom in twisting, does not burn off before the solder has run into the joints. The wire must be bound by a few turns round the work, to keep the joints in their place. Next wet the surface of the slate, and with the borax rub up a little wet white powder, as if using a block of water-colour paint very little will suffice. Then with the pencil take up this wet mixture, and neatly " paint " the required joint, taking care only to apply it where the joint has to be made. Lay the chain across the wig,
;
The art is to heat as small aportion of the work as possible by a small " sting " of flame on to the spot required. This
other joint.
is
essential
in
of the
form, for instance, of a crown piece surrounded with silver balls at equal distances round the
edge.
To make a
silver
silver it is necessary to
an
initial letter or
monogram,
is
drawn neatly
with a fine pen and ink on thin paper, and the latter then gummed on to the silver sheet.
the pattern is cut out with a fine fretsaw, about 9 inches long, not very difficult to use but if carefully handled, no extra filing will
;
its
stem in the
left
hand.
When dry
You
lies
its
will, of
on the wig uppermost and conveniently near Apply the pencil, still wet with the solution of borax, to one of the small bits of solder in your box, and lay the solder over the
edge.
If the joint is not a neat
be necessary.
When
all
the open
work
is
sawn
out (as in fret-cutting in wood), the hinge and hook for the pin must be soldered to the back ;
joint.
using the gas or other flame, care must be taken to apply gentle, intermittent jets of heat to the
joint at first, or the solder will fly off
lost.
each of these should be held in their respective positions by binding wire, and soldered as above The pin must then be fastened in the directed. hinge and neatly bent, so as to spring under
the hook.
and be you cannot apply more solder to the hot metal of the work without risk of singeing and destroying your pencil therefore, place enough solder on the "job" before using your blow-pipe. "When you observe the borax begins to run, you can,
Tou
will
remember,
also, that
The brooch should, with advantage, be taken to an engraver, who will execute margin lines to the letters, and shading lines to the initial of the surname; thus producing The silver will, however, appear better effect.
dull,
able to
We
must,
therefore,
REPAIRS.
" to a proper joint.
115
If
circular
"run
We
by a tin or sheet brass screen but if not, you must procure a narrow scratch brush, say 6 to 9 inches long. With a saucer of beer by you, dip this brush into the beer, and vigorously brush the silver on both
scratch brush, protected
;
therefore,
is
This
of Paris,
jet,
on striking the
allowed to partially
sides, in
varying directions one or two minutes of this treatment will produce a very pleasing
;
in fact,
and thus produce a miniature furnace it will do more more perhaps than
polish,
which
is
will
show better
if
the article
treated
to dry.
by a wheel and
bargained for, as in the event of the old coin sold as "real solid silver" being tin or some inferior metal, the whole affair will ignominiously collapse under heat which nothing but solid silver will withstand. The amateur worker
is,
however, not an
is
however,
advised
not
to
attempt
too
first.
occasional silver
quite
The
one
also
is
very
messy, and requires, as already explained, a sheet, or " splash board," to prevent the beer
flying
all
with, whilst
much
over
the operator.
all
through not only ordinary handling in wear, but by the action of the atmosphere, and the glossy surface imparted by the brass wire bristles of the scratch brush soon becomes
dull
He
will
etc.,
"blowing," will not be a serious pecuniary loss. Nothing has been suggested of working in gold, on account of its costliness, not only in the preliminary outlays, but in the loss It through imperfect or destroyed materials. quite easy for the amateur to is, however, This is best done in take up imitation gold.
observe that
are kept
by the silversmith
in air-tight cases,
window. Extremely pleasing brooches and solitaire links have been made by the writer out of old silver coins the former being of necessity constructed
;
what is technically known as " gilding metal," an alloy of a dark brass shade, and sold in It can be convenient sheets at a small cost.
sawn, as already directed, into claws,
hold precious stones and
silver solder,
etc.,
to
and
finally coloured
by the trade
effect
out of a coin not smaller than a modern florin, whilst the links required coins of about the size of
at
trifling
cost
the
shade of
18 carat
it
The
as
In this case sheet silver, as above recommended, was employed its ductility permitting a small piece to be rolled into the stem of the solitaire. The end opposite
;
a shilling or sixpence.
long, of course, as
lasts
is
prominent
relief
when
made
of a crescent form, as
The
can
This cres-
bound together
heavy
E.C.
is
They
and pins
which
it
coin
chosen for the brooch of the size, say, of a modern " crown piece," it will be found, in
is
hook
at the
jeweller's
him in practice repairing brooch pins, especially when those articles of " adornment are forced into stiff stand-up "male
friends will soon keep
collars.
jewellery
116
A SIMPLE
"by
METHOD OF BAYONET-JOINTING A
Whitby
LENS.
can be attempted
jet.
the amateur in
Brooches are made of a plain-polished arched surface, like the one side of a locket,
or half a pigeon's
ROE,
and Guilds of
egg,
in
tion.
London
Institute,
hollow can be
to
cut
centre
EOBABLY
irritating
there
to
is
nothing
more
sharp,
beetle.
pocket-knife,
Brazilian
a photographer
when
it
with a long knitting-needle, or stout wire, held its length in a gas jet.
When
the lac
is
is
firmly and
Care must, of course, be taken that the above hollow is not too large, so that no cement is allowed to appear when finished. The beetles can be purchased at about 3d. each from the foreign naturalists. They look well mounted in a small silver frame for a scarf pin. This class of work is more pleasing if the mount is "beaded," being a series of very small grains of silver fastened in
place.
wishing to photograph an effect which possibly may be only of a fleeting or changeable character, than to encounter difficulty in getting the thread on lens mount to take that on the collar. To obviate this nuisance, many lenses are now made provided with a
F
IG
'Safe
edge
It is readily soldered,
and little claws can be attached to the back to hold the insect in its place these claws being bent into their ultimate position after the beetle
;
bayonet joint, but to those possessing lenses mounted and screwed in the ordinary way this fact will not avail them much, and it is to such
persons I would address the following
lines.
put in. If the amateur wishes to repair a jet brooch by attaching either the hinge or hook,
is
is
this
why run
he must
place.
fill
and press
of these,
it
into its
the risk of ruining a good lens mount in the attempt to perform an operation which must of
necessity be
with small rivets at the back, can be procured for jet jewellery. The writer has had much experience in this class of work, duly appreciated in a
special
flattering
make
somewhat complicated, and therefore unsuitable for performance by an amateur ? If the method proposed to be discussed was the
same as that known generally as a bayonet be compelled to bend to the force of the argument but and perhaps I
;
friends
and
may
turning out cameo brooches of much beauty. The " Council Column " will, through the kind
assistance
had better here confess to the title used being somewhat a misnomer, and seek excuse in the
fact that I
have used
it
in the absence of a
any dubious
better term, and also because of the similarity the method I shall of manipulation and use
may
himself
describe is so simple and inexpensive that the veriest tyro need not hesitate to undertake the
work.
Wood Working. To
process,
it is
circles
apply heat
convex
side,
out forthwith.
Woodworker.
will straighten
Well, they are item, the important certainly not a necessary stock consisting of a 4-inch flat fine (What cut file provided with one safe edge. is to be understood by safe edge will be apparent
upon reference
to Fig. 1.)
117
me
say,
to
possible
a few
notably
view
lenses
issued
by
this
the file we require to remove the whole thread laying within section one, and likewise section three, leaving the portions in
of the
With
by
method, for reasons which will be very apparent as we proceed but as the majority of workers
;
intact.
The
portion
we
gradually
now
are the
happy possessors
of one of that
FIG
2.
amount removed until we come to the top of the thread. Having finished with the flange, we must take the lens mount, and remove from it exactly the same amount of thread that was left on the flange. It will now be quite apparent that if the mount be placed on the flange, it will drop until the milled rim
prevents further progress
effected,
bite,
;
this
having been
and the mount will be held sufficiently firm at least, I have always found such to be the case, never having, during an experience of over three years, had the slightest accident arising from the lens shifting.
for all purposes
;
It will
make
permanent marks, one on mount, and one on flange, to indicate the exact position in which
the
mount requires
to
position.
centre
punch
make
the
necessary mark.
It has taken twice the time to write this than
it
job to take three or four times as long to do, the result will, I feel sure, be considered to
which
it
is
invariably
made with
amply repay the time and trouble expended. This will doubtless be considered a lengthy
paper to deal with such a short matter but even should I be the recipient of much "blame, I should still believe that by adopting the simple method described, many unkind thoughts would
;
be safe to conclude that the persons unable to take advantage of this method will be few and far between. The first thing to do is to remove the flange from the camera front, and unscrew the lens from the mount, wrapping the lens up carefully, and placing away to avoid danger of scratching. Taking the flange, and looking at the back, it will somewhat resemble in outline Fig. 2. The outer circle, of which a represents the outer
purpose, I think
will
diameter
the
second
;
circle,
I,
indicates the
and the third circle, c, the inner diameter of flange. It will be observed that the diagram is divided into four parts, which it will be convenient to number 1 2, 3, and 4 respectively, for convenience in reference.
,
should be "bridled." done by covering it with a piece of leather, extending from the heel to about the middle of the bristles, and stitched together, drawing the leather tight enough. By this means, a new brush may be put into immediate use on rough coatings. When the end is worn down, cut away the leather, and the brush will Arts and Grafts. preserve its shape.
This
is
118
planed
For
accompanying designs are for photograph frames one to take two f Hols Sjjgllll large-sized pictures, or two cabinets with cut-out mounts, and the other to take three
**5
^ HE
a cabinet, and an imperial. The effect of these frames is very pleasing when standing on the piano or the mantelshelf, or among the bric-abrac on the table. They completely eclipse all smaller affairs of metal, glass, etc, and are a delightful change from the everlasting plush
one-over-the-other affairs that are
f inch square when two pieces f inch square, and four pieces inch by f inch. These are each to be exactly 7-| inches long, and allowing J inch at each end for the tenon they will then be 6i inches in the clear, which is the width of the frame inside the sides. When all these pieces are squared up, take the uprights, mark centres on the ends, and turn the heads and feet on the solid. When these are done, the places are marked on them for the small mortise joints, which, although not required to be very strong, must be accurately
pieces
14 \ inches long,
fitted.
Proceed now to make the mortise and tenon be placed in such a position as
length of the glass to be &h inches.
is
now
to
be
There
fact,
an innings that
it
makes
it
comparatively easy
" have a shy," the paint but I hope that any reader who essays to make the frames from these designs, will do me the honour of trying Whenever I am allowed by our kind his best.
for all amateurs to
;
and the breadth 6 inches in two wrinkles one is that the frame may be used as a whole plate printing frame in an emergency, and the other is that old negatives come in handy to glaze and reglaze them when
glass 8i inches,
necessary.
deep,
;
the
\ inch
range and ability of of " amateur workers," and I have no patience with workmen who do the work anyhow, and cover up mistakes with putty and paint. These frames, then (although they may be enamelled, of course), are intended to be stained
do nicely for the joint. Be careful, when marking, to mark from the face of the work
in each case, so that the edges will
flush.
be exactly
fitted,
When
glass,
the
next thing
to
which
is
made
is
of
strips
by those who are not desirous of investing in the more expensive wood. They are made of beech, and the wood must be well seasoned, or it will cast and warp it is just the sort of wood for amateurs who are beginning
to imitate walnut,
;
The quickest
:
as follows
Plane down
little
jobs on their
own
you require
in width as Cut clear of the pencil mark, and plane up the remaining side,
much
about A
inch.
much of
the wood.
is to
making the
get the wood.
If possible,
strip f inch
by
ik inch exactly.
Now
it
in stock for
some time
you
will
round one edge like a bead, and mitre the corners to fit into frame. These will be the same size as the opening and in fitting
;
then be sure of having it seasoned. Get the wood cut into lengths inch square in section,
them
they
it
is
better to cut
them
little
at first a little
longer,
fit.
at a time until
and you can cut off the pieces to the various lengths you require as you proceed. You will require for the sides of the double frame four
Now we
to turn
and
Be
careful,
when boring
119
you have
must be
strictly close.
If these
two
Glue all up, and finish off with sandpaper, stain with burnt umber and water, and give two coats of spirit varnish. The backs are to be made of J-inch boarding, planed and chamfered down, and held with sprigs, with a piece of brown paper pasted over the joints to keep out the dust. Of course, if the frames are used as printing frames, the backs will have to be hinged and have springs. A pair of brass lunges are used to join the frames. This disposes of the double frame. The treble frame is rather more troublesome, and requires more care in the marking out. There is no difference in the jointing up, or in the rebating and backing. The sizes are made for the sake of economy, as the last 10 by 8, 8 by 6i, 6J by 4| inches being the sizes of imperial, whole plate, and half plate respectively. They may, of course, be also used as printing frames for their various sizes. A novel feature in this frame is the steps of carved or fretted wood for the corners. This frame may be enamelled with the fretwork corners (my taste would be moss green) but if carved pieces
; ;
wind that should be passing into the upper chambers of the organ will be wasted. The success of an organ in no small way depends on the bellows. In larger instruments, if the bellows is not properly made, or the capacity insufficient, the organ will not give forth its required volume of tone and the look of despair and vexation on the face of both amateur and professional builder alike, when he finds his work is spoiled by the supply of wind being inadequate, must be seen to be realised. In our organ we shall use the type of bellows
;
technically
known
As
aforesaid, best
The middle board and top may be formed by glueing boards edgeways to make up the required width. Another way, and by far the
is to make two frames, like an ordinary four-panelled door, and fill in the interstices by movable panels, screwed down. By making these pieces in this manner, if any-
are used, they should be left in the natural wood, or stained and varnished. The hinges should be small screen hinges, to be had very cheaply at
-Melhuish's,
thing should get wrong with the pallets in the middle board, all that has to be done is to remove the panels of the top, and the middle
who
advertises in
Amateur Work.
board is laid open to view. Again, if there is a leakage in either of the feeders, or if the pallets are amiss there, the top and middle panels are unscrewed with very little trouble, and a patch is put on inside to stop the escape of
wind, or a new pallet adjusted, as the case may require whereas, if the top and middle boards are glued together, and some trifling thing gets
;
ORGAN
BXTILDER."
III.
The Bellows.
is
HIS
one
it
wrong underneath in the feeder, a large hole has to be cut through both the boards to ascertain what is wrong, as there is no possibility
of finding out
of the
most
vital
parts
indeed,
strument
where the
(in
air is collected
upwards
manner
that will
understood later on) through the soundboards, whence it passes into the pipes and when these
;
thing to be made, then, is a frame for This will be l inches thick, the middle board. long, by 2 feet 5 inches wide, inches 5 feet | finished dimensions, with a rail 5 inches wide
The
first
have been served with their proper supply, the wind assimilates itself with the air of the place in which the organ is erected, and is ready for use again. The greatest possible care must be used in constructing the bellows. All strips of
back.
also.
is
mortised exactly in the centre from front to The other rails will be 5 inches wide
frame be middle the the same width and thickness as board, and will have a similar rail across the
finished, take care that this
When
square
and
parallel.
The top
will
120
centre,
will only
is
may be
bevelled
down
to
to form a ridge at each end, through which two screws may be passed into the inch pieces fastened to rails in c c, Fig. 5, on which pieces the bellows will rest, and to which it will
and the side facing the feeder. Before fixing down for good, on the side that will go nearest the feeder, cut out of the middleof the batten (that is, from end to end) enough
the front ones
wood
is
2 inches-
wide, and inch deep. Into this groove the end of the feeder stud (Fig. 25) will fit, and a
the corners,
couple of 2 \ inch
5 Mir i in .1 ft
exactly the
size as the
same
top.
screws
will
Ml
be-
passed through
the batten and
When
this
it
squaring
fasten
up,
stud
feeder
into
to
the
to the top
with
of
hold
quite
couple
the
stud
firmly.
When
frame
into
is
been
quite
planed
straight
put
to
the
the
bellows
simply
hold
in
various pairs of
ribs
their
from side to side,' and from end to end, glue and brad a piece of
stuff
proper positions,
across the
and
to
prevent
back
end,
inches wide,
from
out-
bulging
wards,
on the
outside
3|
inches
long.
When this
them.
The bottom boards for the feeders, will be formed by glueing 1^ inch boards together edgeways, until the piece comes to 2 feet b\ inches
A good rubbed than though it were ploughed and tongued. On the bottom sides of each of these two slabs screw two battens, running transversely on the feeders. Each batten will be 2 feet 3 J inches long, 3 J inches
long,
by 2
feet
3-f
inches wide.
is dry, plane the end of the feeder awaj on the bevel to meet the feeder batten on the bottom side. If this were not done, every time the feeder dropped, the back end, which now amounts to 3J inches in thickness, would project outwards, and would come in contact with the front bottom rail of the organ frame, which would not be altogether On the under side of the middle desirable. board fix two pieces of wood, similar to those
r
come
flush at the
back, and
-J-
This will
wide, and
\ inches thick.
The
be fixed
will be
The
next
\ of
to be made.
They
consist of
pieces
of inch
121
or
dovetailed
at
Now
folds
for the
and screwed, edgeways, firmly to the top side of the middle board. The screws that fasten these pieces down will be put in from the bottom side of the middle board. In one end (either
and 9 wood
Fig. 6
and feeders.
;
Figs. 6
is
and
a pair of
riG
is ?-if>t
8 inches
long,
by
the
outside of
Through
the
pass from
reservoir
through
the
wind The
end that has the hole cut in it must now be the bass end of the bellows, that is, the lefthand end as you face it when in its proper "When speaking about the front of position. the bellows, I mean the place where the feeders open the widest but really this place is at the back of the organ. When the linings are all fastened down they should form a
;
r
what are
ribs.
3*3
ribs.
Z^
called
triangular
shall use
in the bellows
we
and will be made of ^-inch stuff; while the remainder will be utilised by the
feeder,
reservoir,
and
will
be f inch thick.
is,
The four
in
the
inverted rib
that
122
With
The
front
will
be 4 feet
the sharp corner of the ^ inch that is left, and also the outside side of the rib where the bevel
7f inches long at the longest points, and will have a bevel cut on each end at an angle of
55 degrees, so that on the shorter edges the
length will only be 4 feet
?>\
inches.
The short
1 foot 9j inches on the other. This will make the same bevel at the ends as on the corresponding long ones for the top series.
All the ribs for the reservoir will finish 3J inches wide. Fig. 6 represents a pair of the end ribs
laid
flat,
In the bottom series the direct rib will The front and back pairs will measure 4 feet If inches at the longest points, and will be bevelled at each end at an angle of 41 degrees, so that on the short edges will be 4 feet 4 inches long. The pairs for the ends will be 2 feet 2| inches and 1 foot 8| inches long on each of their respective edges, the bevel being the same as the front and back couples. Pig. 7 is a pair of the bottom end ribs. The triangular ribs, as seen in Fig. 8, are only used in the formation of the feeder. Each rib, and there will be eight separate ones, will be 2 feet 2| inches long, 5 inches wide at the widest part, and J inch wide at the narrow end. The front end will be bevelled at an angle of 41 degrees, the same as the bottom series of the reservoir ribs. We now come to the last two pairs for the fronts of the These will be 5J inches wide and feeders. parallel, 2 feet 2| inches long on the longest edges, and 1 foot 2f inches on the opposite edge, thus making the bevel on each end to correspond with that of the end pairs. "When paired, they
middle.
Cover the inside side of each rib with thin size, put on scalding hot. Before sizing wet the outside with clean water, which will counteract the action of the size, and prevent the wood from casting. Before going any further, glue up the panels They will be for the top and middle board. made of inch stuff, and an inch larger all the way round than the hole they have to cover, so that the top ones will measure 1 foot llf inches long, by 1 foot 9J wide, and the panels for the middle should finish 2 feet J inches
is
made.
a coating of
be used.
1
by 1 foot 9 inches wide. Having now prepared all the principal component parts, we will proceed to put some of them together. The first thing to be done is to pair all the ribs, fix them on to some
long,
are
the edges
white strained or calendered sheepskin leather (the latter is the better, being more easily
laid),
1J inches
wide,
down the
middle,
so
should show like Fig. 9. Plane all the pieces up and fasten them together in fours, either with handscrews or a
fine brad.
Work
separating them.
be done at once, and the bottom ones in like manner. Bevel or round each piece for | inch up the rib to ^ inch on the edge. The rounding is the better way, and the number 14 hollow The long edges of all the will now be used. ribs will be rounded outside, and the short ones
go on each rib. Fig. 10 is a section of a pair of ribs with the strip on. In bradding down on to the board, leave a good length projecting, so as to have something to catch hold of when the time comes for their being drawn out. When all the pairs have the one strip on, and that is dry, draw the brads, and carefully fold the ribs together. Then glue another strip on the inside rounded edges of similar leather, and If inches wide. When each pair is folded, it will be noticed that a gap, the width of two thicknesses of leather, is formed. In putting on the wide strip it must be well rubbed lengthways down the centre, so that the outside and inside strips will meet, and keep the ribs apart thus forming a strong hinge on which the wood will work quietly. The instrument best adapted for rubbing the
;
leather
down
is easily
made out
of a piece of
is
This
is
what
is is
Another way
123
all be bedded round with these strips. Those required by the lining, under side of the middle frame, and the bottom boards, are left flat, but the remainder must be laid on a board with the fleshy side that is, the side that has not been scratched downwards, and f inch will be
much
turned up, so as to make them like a V, with a long stroke and a short one. Pass a warm
iron along the leather, to
more
thick.
though
it
were glued
make
lay to
its
required angle.
is to find
must be laid on a board with the fleshy side downwards, and well wetted with a sponge and hot water. All pieces of leather should be rubbed down with the leather stick, and after this has been done have some clean hot water handy, and with a sponge wash off any glue that may have squeezed out during the rubbing process. After a strip of leather has been laid, always wash it over with a sponge, to take off
finger-marks, &c.
leather,
On
draw a
round, 3} inches from the outside edges, and lay the folded leather so that the
point of the
will
meet
this line.
The long
for
wood
J inch,
and
will
be
2-g
ends.
Where
the
side
and end
strips
meet
the
When
at the corners
make a rough
mitre.
On
be used, have two pieces of -inch stuff the width of the required strip, lay them across the skin, and cut a straight edge to begin with then move one wood strip behind the other cut along that then move again, and so on. "When any glueing is going on, try and keep the place nice and warm, as the glue is liable to chill if the shop be cold. After all the pairs of ribs have the two strips
; ;
under side of the middle board draw two lines, If inches and 2 feet 3 J inches from each end, and another inch from the front. The point
of the
V will come up
to these lines.
The top
edges of the linings will have a flat strip all the way round. On the top side of the bottom boards draw lines all round, with the exception
of the back, 1 inch
strip so that
and ends.
it
from the outside, and lay a inch will project over the front J Cut two pieces of leather 4 inches
and scratch the smooth surface well so as A scratcher is easily made by to make it rough. fixing a piece of an old saw, any length over
2 inches, with teeth in
it,
wide, 2 feet 3f inches long, and glue 2 inches of on to the bevelled piece on the back end of
the feeder, and leave the other 2 inches hanging over the end. If the strips of leather are not
mahogany.
to a piece of
A piece of
wood
is
long
enough
for
another
way
of
making a
were
scratcher.
nearly so well as
not disturbed, the glue would not adhere to it it will do when the skin is rough.
strips
J inches wide
;
used, but on no account must they overlap one another. Each end of the leather will be cut square, and put end to end head and joint fashion. When laying the bedding leathers, glue the wood as far as the
strip
is
another strip
may be
that
is,
they
required to cover
it.
Lay the
strips
were, between
quickly
flat
is
down
in their places,
to
the ribs and the parts to which they are conThey hold the ribs in their places, nected.
iron over
them
make
The
must not
and keep the two pieces of wood apart from one another. The under side of the top, both
sides of the middle frame, the top
linings, the
be too hot, or it will curl up the leather. Cut a piece of f -inch stuff to the shape of Fig. 1 3 (which is a sketch of one of the bellows pallets), bore a bradawl hole through each of the centres
124
the top side of the feeders. Mark round the outside with a pencil, and pass the bradawl
middle board. Hold them in that position with a couple of handscrews, and glue the projecting
piece of leather at the back end of the feeder
up
H-inch
bit.
With
in
groups of
feeders.
sixes, as
will go.
Now make
six hinges
After this
fine
with a piece of
make
a very smooth surface. Cover each of the groups of holes with a pallet of brown basil
leather, cut exactly the
shape of Fig.
13.
Lay
the pallets
down over
lines already
couple of tinned tacks, \ inch long, at each corner. The pieces should lay quite fiat over
the holes.
If there should be of the least description, cover
of leather,
by doubling an 11 -inch strip, 2 inches wide, of stout webbing like that used by upholsterers, and fasten three of them to each feeder with Four nails will go copper nails 1 inch long. into the lining, and two into the end of the bottom board, and a like number into the feeder batten. One hinge should go in the middle, and the others about 3 inches from the end. The feeders will work on these substantial hinges, and they will support the
weight of the bottom boards.
the pieces
Carefulty turn
and glue
strips
any knots or flaws them with pieces inch wide down all
now
connected right
wood a
size. Be careful that no size under the pallets. Patch and size the under and top sides of the middle board. The linings will have a strip put in the angle where the bottom edge is fastened to the middle, and a short piece will be glued in the angle at the The middle board must have a space 1 corners. inch wide, left clear of size all the way round the hole formed by the framework, and the bottom side will only be coated on the inside beyond the bedding leathers. The under side of the top and the two sides of the middle frame will all have no size going outside the strips to be sized already laid down. The patching strips and size will keep the bellows sound, if the wood should be inclined to shrink. Now fasten some pieces of webbing, like that sold at shoemakers for Wellington boots, \\ inches wide and 2| inches long, over the bedding leathers on the top sides of the feeders at 2 inches from the ends of the front and end
middle board at the top, and prop it up with pieces of wood, so that there will be a gap 7 inches wide in front between the top side of
the feeder and the bottom of the middle. Place the pairs of ribs for the feeders in
their proper positions
runs
inch from the edges and on the middle board If inches, and 2 feet 3f- inches from the outside ends, and \ inch from the front. The bevelled ends of the ribs will be \ inch from the outof the feeder,
side front
Fasten the
beyond the
out-
aaa
Turn the
through the rounded edges. Leave J- of the Turn the pieces of webbing brad projecting. over on to the rib, and fasten those that can be so done with three f-inch tacks. The back Turn over ones will only be held with glue. the webbing the short piece of bedding leather, and rub it well down. When these are dry carefully draw the brads, and, with a chisel, featheredgethat is, take off the ridge formed by the leather the strips all the way round, and glue pieces of calendered leather If inches wide, so that \ inch will be laid on the edges of the feeder, and the rest will cover the bedding leather, and on to the rib. Well rub the leather
down
downwards, and fasten pieces of the same stuff to correspond with those of the bottom board. Put the bottom boards in their places, so that
If there is
any
difficulty in
straightedge to
putting on the strips rubbing has been done, put a them, and with a sharp leather
125
This
much
tidier
appearance
when
finished.
be noticed that at the corners great gaps are formed these will be filled in with
It -will
;
To make
HE
is is
sure of the proper shape for them, cut a piece of brown paper an inch larger than the hole all
the
from a printed
way
round, and
mark
as follows
paper pattern. In putting the gussets on, it is more than likely that they will have to be cut J inch from each edge, in the middle, so as to make them lay properly on the rib, but if they can be pressed into the angle, do so instead of
cutting the leather.
Photography
is
;
largely used in transferring designs to the block this is a process, however, that will be of little use to the beginner, as to engrave from the
Only try
to lay half of a
photograph one must have the knowledge and experience necessary to bring out the shading into lines of black and white But a process from the shaded photograph.
transferred
'
much
more pliable, and less likely to crack. Fill in the back with pieces shaped like Fig. 15. The point will go well on to the ribs and feeder, will cover the filling-in bevelled pieces, and turn When the round over the back inches.
FIG.
In the angle of the rib where the gusset has been cut, and even if they are not cut, glue a piece shaped like Fig. 17. When the proper shape has been obtained in paper for each of these
pieces, cut out a piece of thin stuff for a template,
and simple in the exany lithograph, steel which treme, is the one by a wood-cut can be from print engraving, or
accessible to every one,
The materials
it
with a knife.
used are caustic potash and alcohol, and the tools, etc., a small flat dish, with a bottom as
large as the print to he transferred, a piece of blotting paper, and either a printing press, a
be feather-edged all round. Fig. 18 is supposed to be one of the feeder corners with 2 inches at the top and I think it will give some idea as to where the gussets, etc., are laid if the
;
enough.
Now
get a piece
copying press, or a vice. The last three are preferable in the order named, although with a with little care as good a copy can be obtained
the last as with the
first.
back and everything else that may show there. This may be put on in two or three pieces, but whenever the outside strips are not sufficiently long, the ends must be feather-edged, and cover
is
or three sticks of caustic potash must first be dissolved in enough alcohol to give the solution a wine colour after it has stood twenty-
Two
one another for \ inch. When all the leather quite dry, the feeder is practically finished, so
let the middle board down. Do not be in too great a hurry to do this, but give the leather time to dry.
four hours ; it should then be strong enough to soften the ink without curling the paper. If it does curl the paper, more alcohol should be
lie flat,
is
and not
curl
prepared, place
the print to be copied in a flat dish, preferably of earthenware, and turn enough of the solution
126
over
to cover
minute
it, and let it stand for about a then rinse in clean water, to remove the surplus of the potash, and touch the corner of
down on the paper, and the whole placed between the jaws of the vice. Be sure that they are even before pressure is given, and it is bost to shift the blocks about in the vice two or three
times, so as to give pressure to all of the surface.
face
down on
by
When
rubbing the surface with a smooth cork stopper, on which has been placed a little ground pumicestone. See that the print is on square with the block, and to make sure of it the paper should be cut the exact size of the block when it is possible, and then there is not so much danger of a crooked copy. If you have a printing press, the block should be locked up in the chase, and after the print is placed on it, it should be subjected to the pressure of the platen, the
if
appear with remarkable distinctness on the surface of one of them. These are the general directions for transferring an ordinary book or newspaper cut lithograph ink dissolves and
will
;
printer's ink, and more be taken with them. Experience only will tell how long to soak the cut, as the ink varies sometimes if the solution is too
softens
care should
strong
it
same as
If proper
In an ordinary should be
pressure
taken
if
it is
wished
to
original.
Take
The
still
remains as a guide
it
other
you wish to have the feeling that your fingers are on fire, as you surely will if any of it touches
tender spots.
Photographing on the Block.
than to discolour
it.
more
Photography
is
very convenient
when
must not be
soiled or injured, is to
;
be transferred
to the block
also
when a
you
will
sometimes get
all
other three.
block should be
applied with
it
on
from the copy is to be made, etc. We will suppose the amateur engraver is an amateur photographer also, and understands the principles of that fascinating art if he possesses a camera suitable to copy with, he is all right, and if not, any ordinary camera may be made to do service by lengthening the bellows, or by extending the front by means of a light pasteboard box, with
;
be found adhering closely to the block, unless too dry when placed on it. This is an advantage, as it can be caretaking
it
it.
We
will sup-
pose that
at hand,
all
and if the transfer is not sufficiently made, the whole can be returned to the press and more pressure given whereas if the whole print was removed, it would be almost impossible to replace it If neither printing exactly on the same spot. nor copying press is at hand, the workshop To transfer in the vice, vice can be resorted to.
;
may be
said that
the negative
is
made
in the
from what it should There are various remedies for this, and one is to turn the film the same as in zinc etching another is, to reflect the picture in a glass and take the negative from that, but the glass must be of the best quality of mirror. Ordinary work is just as well reversed from the original, unless it contains lettering and so this difficulty
positive, or just the opposite be.
;
is
If
the design
is
127
necessary in develop-
it
to stand a
off into
work needs
away
into the
dark
of the block is very simple.
to dry,
and
will shortly
be ready for
printing.
'will
ment
Fig.,
and bend
it
A.
.
.
.
9 grains.
9
.
,,
ounce.
Solution
B.
.
Albumen Water
1
.
ounce
(fl.)
Sal-ammoniac
Citric acid
..
.
..
.
6 drachms. 21 grains.
6
,,
60 grains. 1 ounce.
In making up solution A, the gelatine is allowed to soak in the water an hour or so, and then is dissolved by putting the bottle or glass
in a dish of hot water
;
and then bore several holes in the long and cut threads in them for a thumbscrew, or a wedge may be used instead. Place this over your printing frame, the small bends coming over the front of the frame, and the thumbscrew over the back; place the block, face down, on the negative, and over the design to be copied, slide the brass directly over it, and place the thumbscrew in the hole nearest the centre of the block screw it down on to the block easy, and then the latter can be slipped exactly into place, and the screw tightened. The print should be made in the sun as usual five or six minutes ought to print it sufficiently, but it must surely be enough, as if moved it is for
part,
;
small pieces,
is
then a few pinches of powdered alum are added, enough to settle the
until all is well
;
mixed
good. If it is very desirous that a nice print should be made, small pieces of wood may be glued around the block on the negative, so that it
arises in mixing the soap then through a piece of muslin. Solution B is made by beating up the white of one egg to a froth, and letting it settle a good-sized egg will give just about 1 ounce of clear albumen. The water is then added, and then the sal-ammoniac, and all is stirred with a glass rod until mixed. The mixture will be almost a gold colour then, but after the citric acid is added, as it should be next, the whole clears, and then turns to a milky it is then ready for use. colour Solution C needs no description. The block is then prepared as follows Its surface is covered with a little of solution A, mixed with some zinc white, all being gently rubbed over so as to form a thin film allow this to dry, which it will do in a few moments then
;
foam which
strain
may be examined
to see
how
it is
printing
the
about ten minutes dry with blotting paper and a cloth, and the block is ready. So much wet does not do the block any good, although many claim that the process is a good one. If the wood is properly dried, no great difficulty
for
;
in the
same
will be found.
it
Some use
a soft brush
but the
Another simple process is to coat the block with a mixture of part gelatine to 33 parts water, a little gilder's glue being added as it is
being put on
the
print
;
and then the block should be sensitized by solution C. Pour a little on its surface, spread it around with a glass rod, allow
dry
verj- quickly,
is
coated with
to light.
128
AMATEUR CONJURING.
supply him with one.
It is particularly useful
when
IT.
an individual amongst the audience who " knows how that's done," and
there
is
A New Magic Wand for Card Tricks. N my last paper I gave instructions
to
coin," and in this I shall try to make him a new wand. Now, there are dozens
,-F
F
FIG.
FIG
. ; ;
10
;
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES. A, TUBE IN WHICH CARD IS PLACED B, 7. SECTION OF WAND (HALF SIZE) CYLINDER OF SOLID METAL OR WOOD C, SMALL CATCH D, SPRING E, SCREWED
;
;
BOTTOM, SO THAT THE SPRING MAY BE GOT AT IN CASE OF ACCIDENT. FIG. 8. EXTERIOR OF WAND SHOWING (C) CATCH, AND (F) GROOVE IN WHICH CATCH SLIDES. FIG. 9. SPRING, END ELEVATION AND FRONT VIEW (FULL SIZE). FIG. IO. CARD WITH SPRING ATTACHED (FULL SIZE).
of
various kinds of
:
tells
his
nearest
all
neighbour
in
an
audible
wands
whisper heard
ducing wand, the magnetic wand, the pistol wand, and the
But
This
wand has
but that will be no use if the amateur will carefully attend to the drawings and instructions rather an advantage, I fancy, as
drawback
to its successful
person
of
If
not
in
the
any amateur
FIG
.7
some of the tricks that you see produced have been performed " since Adam was a boy," as the song says. Not that I despise a trick because it is old, for some of the oldest tricks, as, for instance, those invented by Robert Houdin, etc., are amongst the finest that have ever been
performed.
At Fig .7 we are shown the section The tube may be brass or copper,
of the
tin or
wand.
iron.
129
and about \ inch of a stout pin, and drive it in the cylinder at the top of the narrow, long
groove.
shown
at
Then
of
Aspinall's
being tapped, to screw in or out, so that if anything should go wrong with the spring it is easily " getatable." d is the spring, made of steel wire about 18 B.W.G. is the right thickness. If the amateur understands tempering steel, etc., he will be able to make this himself by twisting
;
black.
is
perfectly dry.
The
is,
mania for painting, enamelling, and always goes to his work every five
minutes to feel if it is dry. The result can better be imagined than described.
it
for a
is
a solid
cylinder of hard
wood
is
of a playing card;
and
a small catch.
By
as
have a duplicate wand the its tricky brother, but of " solid wood instead of metal. Make the " trick wand first, and then turn on the lathe, or get turned, a model of the "trick" one in every
It is better to
exact counterpart of
looking at Fig.
apparent.
8,
it
is
solid
wood
instead of
being ready for use the small catch just pressed in the side groove. If a card is placed endwise in the space marked a (Fig. 7), and then the catch pushed to the left, the spring will push
being hollow brass. In my next paper I shall have a few words to say concerning the working
up to the top, and the card out of the wand. But now comes the "rub." If the card be rolled up to fit in the tube (the tube is
the cylinder
go
so
barely f inch), when it is pushed out it will not flat again without bending, and that would spoil the " experiment " (" experiment" sounds
much more
;
ROE,
so I
of London
Institute.
devised a remedy for this. It is a piece of spring steel a very small clock-spring will do very well
if
HILST
day,
the steel
is
good.
Measure the length by the and then turn up each end (you
the card.
footstool,
true
but
have
The spring
is
shown
fitted,
in Fig.
in Fig.
9,
and a
10.
You
probably break
but
;
stick to
game myself
one day testing and breaking. Perhaps, too, one spring will not be sufficient to fetch the card back to its original position, in which case
all
was
have elapsed since the said stool left the bench, and that, during that time, has been subjected to all those little indignities which such an article is generally likely to have thrust upon it during its sojourn in youthful domains, still bears a respectable and substantial appearance. There is, as will be noticed, but little attempt at ornamentation, strength and safety being considered for the purpose more important.
you must use two. When you handle the card you can easily draw them off, and " palm " them. Now place your spring in the tube (not the card spriDg, but the spring marked d in Fig. 7), and screw on the bottom ferrule. If you have made your spring right, the wood cylinder ought to be right at the top of the tube. Now cut the head
Our second
section, so to speak,
of of
American yellow pine, left clean from the plane, and is periodically scrubbed to keep it presentable.
made when
130
it
made
of pine,
so
set
If not, do so before
proceeding
in the
further.
The drawings
are half
being marked
of an inch wide, as at a, Fig. A. This having been satisfactory accomplished, we may do that which is useful in very many similar instances glue the two together with a couple of pieces of paper between. This is best done by glueing one piece of paper over the inner face of each leg, and then, after glueing the papers, stick together and place in a cramp or under a heavy weight to dry. "While these are drying, the top
f-
by
is
inch yellow
may
;
receive attention.
;
The
first
thing
is to set
it
decided to use,
be obtained,
it
will
make the
out the four mortises these are ^ of an inch square, preferably a little full on the top side,
This should be carefully planed up, the face edge shot, and then, with a marking gauge, gauged
to width,
Perhaps
the best
way
is to
which
is
incheB off
this will
parts,
which
will
make
the
with a centre-bit before paring out bore from The edges require rounding. This plane is best done in the following manner
:
Having the
hands,
we may
outline as at
them prepared and Taking one piece, set out the Fig. A there will be two tenons
as well get
;
the ends perfectly square, and then with a pair of dividers set out a section of the round on each
of the four ends of the side edges
;
something to work
to,
as
it is
best to
work the
HOUSES.
131
end grain
L. L.
Taking
lines,
the
legs
out
of
the
cramp, or
wherever we
may have placed them, cut out to and clean up with spokeshave and rasp,
little
HE
first
using finally a
glasspaper, but
do be
careful of the arrises. The circular hole at b, Fig. A, will of course be cut with a centre-bit.
to fit two connectors to These connectors afford a ready means of removing the boiler at any
the pipes
the boiler.
Coming now
to the
stage
when
required separate,
we must
pipes.
should such be required, without cutting the Fig. 6 explains the use and the manner
not that any great difficulty should arise when dividing them, but it is well to guard against
accidents,
which
fitting
are
better
prevented
the
top,
than
great
remedied.
When
the
;
legs
to
precision is requisite
up these connectors. The two pipes, have a long thread cut on them at one end, long enough for a back-nut and socket to be screwed on, so that the sockets come flush with the edge of the pipes that they are screwed on. The pipes b b, which are supposed to be the
of fitting
a,
when
pipes leading
to take wedges, as
shown
at Fig. C,
and then,
with good glue, put together, keeping careful watch on the legs, seeing they are square to the
top
up.
;
when wedging
screwed on to them several threads, and then the back-nuts are screwed up tight to the sockets with a wrench. When required to be taken apart the process is reversed, the back-nut is
to
Place aside to dry, and prepare the side slips, which require to be 10 inches long, 1 inch wide, by f-inch thickness, a ^-inch bead on the
screwed back, and this leaves room for the socket be screwed back also whereas, if the pipes
;
bottom edge
at Fig. B.
provided for screwed on with a couple of f-inch screws to each corner if it is intended to leave plain, brass screws, left flush with face, will do if to be painted, countersink in. The top may
These
them,
may be
were simply screwed together in the ordinary way with short threads, the socket could not be moved one way or the other, and the pipe would have to be cut apart a very awkward job. I must also here say that the sockets and back-
not
pipe.
Of
course,
now be
cleaned
off,
and the
stool dedicated to
other
pipes,
tongs
be
used,
and the
the performance of such small services as will doubtless fall to its lot.
joint sound,
little
oil,
make up some
than cream,
little
paint a
thicker
Rubbings of Monumental Brasses which adorn many of our churches are best made by
covering the brass with a sheet of highly-glazed
tissue paper,
and a
terebine
which
is
ture of
applied by
means
piece
of
wash-leather.
Such
rubbings are most faithful, and can be excellently reproduced by photography while, as a
;
Apply it with a brush to the threads of the pipe, and wrap round a strand of dressed hemp. Let this wind round in the same direction in which you are screwing, or it will be of no use, as it will not draw into the joints. A few strands of hemp must also be wound round between the back-nut and the socket before screwing the back-nut up, which must be done with a large wrench or screw-hammer.
gold
size.
132
We will
for the
Cut the
back 18 inches. This will want an elbow and nipple on one end to screw into the boiler at the back. There are two sorts of elbows (see Figs. 7 and 8) one is rounded at the back, and the other square. For hot water work always use the round ones if possible, and where it is not particular about fitting round angles of walls, etc., use bends (Fig. 9), as all sharp corners
;
grummet or washer of hemp that will just press on the pin of the bridge tie a piece of thin string on the pin, and let it into the boiler hold
; ;
tend
to
hinder
the
circulation.
Take the
and run a back-nut on the end that is going into the boiler, leaving f of an inch of thread to screw into the boiler. This being the flow pipe, there is one very important thing to notice the pipe must not project through the top of the boiler only just one thread. I will explain why, and Fig. 10 will
shortest connector,
We
will suppose
it
to
The water
till
which
is
projecting
it
boiler.
When
is
reaches
it
concerned,
When
on the boiler
and makes
that
it
leak
or, if
cannot do
this,
knockings in the pipes and boiler in its endeavour to escape but this will not happen if you only allow it to come through, as I have stated, one thread, or even flush with the inside is best of all. Now screw the connector in for the return pipe, making a good sound joint with
;
can
now be
packed.
The cover
bridge,
consists of three
pieces
the cover
which
itself,
and
nut.
The
has a
6. METHOD OF FITTING CONNECTORS. FIG. 7. ROUND BEND. FIG. 9. ELBOW. FIG. 8. SQUARE ELBOW. FIG. IO. ILLUSTRATION OF A BADLY FITTED BOILER. CONNECTION OF PIPES TO TANKS. FIG. 12.
bridge,
goes inside
the boiler,
piece of ^ or | inch round iron rivetted into it, on which is a thread. The cover has a hole in
FIG.
through which the pin of the bridge passes. The nut is placed on, and screwed up tight. This is the way to do it Paint round the edge of the manhole, and also the rim of the cover spread a layer of red lead cement round the rim of cover, and wind round it three or four rows of tar twine, and press it into the cement plait a
it,
:
up by the string in its place while you slip on the cover, then the washer, and then the nut
it
take
off
better
the string and screw up tight. way to hold up the covers than the
HOUSES.
133
when
to consider
is
little
more trouble
at first,
but
it
saves trouble
The
size
cleaning out the boiler. Another way to pack the manholes is to use a piece of thick indiarubber with wire insertion, but it comes
when
time
quantity of water likely to be required at a but for the class of house that I am writing for, I should advise a 40 or 50 gallon
;
more expensive. The reader can please himself which plan he adopts. The boiler is now ready
to
cold cistern,
go in
its
place your
;
The cold water tank will about 28s. to 30s. and the hot ditto a little less, but not much,
as though smaller there is more work in it. With regard to their
if he be a competent man
bricklayer will,
at
way
to
struction that
it
is
almost
imthat
this
you
that
will
it
possible to lay
will
suit
all,
understand
fire
so that whatever
it
may
say about
must be
In the case of
be above where you want the highest draw - off, and may be close
ever,
together, or not.
every
is
and here
great
arise
morning where a
servants
many complaints
the
top'' floor
side
by
side side
in
the
roof
in
a
;
servant's
not
get
hot
quick
blame.
The
some
of the
and ways
of the range should be movable, so that the manhole of the boiler can be got at for the purpose of cleaning,
at not greater intervals
the
iron,
generality
As the
lime, chalk,
and other deposits cake on to the sides of the boiler, and as the water cannot touch the
iron to keep
it
which the tanks may be disposed. If placed on a landing, and cased round with wood, with a cover screwed on, there is nothing unsightly, and they can be easily and quickly got at and when placed up in the roof, there is nothing to be seen, and they are out of the way. Before fixing, three holes must be cut in the cold water
;
cool,
first
the
fire
away.
After the
amount
of
134
for the feed pipe
HOW
TO
MAKE A PHOTOGRAPHIC
pipes do not
dip
STILL.
at
all,
the cold water supply, and one 3 inches from the top for the overflow.
upwards
going
;
in the
direction in
he 2-inch pipe, and should be carried through the wall on to the roof, or into a spout head or gutter f -inch pipe will be large enough for the supply to the cold water cistern. Three holes will also require to be made in the circulating The tank, for the flow, return, and expansion. the position that be placed in should bath also you have then got something to it is to occupy work to. The pipes can now be fitted in. Fig. 11, which shows the whole arrangement complete, will give a general idea of how to do this. The pipes should be of good quality that known as steam pipe ought to be used for the flow and return the cold water pipes can be ordinary iron barrel the pipes, in the sketch as shown, going in a straight line from the boiler to the
; ;
by air gathering in them and trying to escape. It will also be seen that I have shown the cold water entering
noises in the pipe, produced
into the
bottom of the
either
and
cistern.
show the
relative position
and
fitting
up
of the system.
Every house
course,
varies,
have to
is
and so will the ways of The flow and return will, of come through the wall of the
sides, or
whichever
most convenient. In a suitable place for the branch to the kitchen tap keep
through the bottom or taken in at the side, the only proviso being that the flow shall come 7 or 8 inches above the return. The expansion pipe of the circulating cistern can now be fixed in this should be the same size as the flow and return pipe, viz. 1 inch fix it with two backnuts, one in and one out make sound joints. This pipe can be carried with a bend over the cold water tank, which is, in my opinion, better than taking it up through the roof, as it is not so likely to freeze, and is, moreover, less trouble. This being all the connections to the circulating cistern, the manhole can be screwed down. Most makers send them out with a rubber ring for the joint but if not, they must be packed in the same manner as the boiler,
;
,
that
is,
as far
as
the packing
is
concerned
appearance.
The
T which brings
from the supply cistern, can be put in at any all three point below the level of the bath pipes then run on together. When the height is reached for the bath, a T can be put in the flow for the hot water, and also in the cold These feed, to supply cold water to the bath. three tees will be what are called reducing When tees, 1 inch through with f-ineh outlet. the cisterns are reached, connect to them with a sort of double connector (see Fig. 12, which
;
a dozen -1-inch square-headed set screws, round each of which must be rubbed a little redlead cement and some hemp this applies
;
equally
if
there
is
a rubber ring.
NDER
photographer's
the
above heading
intention
of
to
it
is
the
writer's
describe
the
of
construction
still,
simple
form
regard to the cold supply to cistern, happen that it is more convenient to take it in a different direction to the other pipes but this
;
With it may
the operator well supplied with that most important liquid, pure water.
will
The
first
proceeding
is
essential.
importance. A good ball valve is Lambert's or Warner's are as good as they cost about 3s. or 4s. any I know of Note in taking the pipes horizontally that the
of
no
be to consider the articles required. Foremost amongst these will be three round tins with lids, one of them measuring, say, 8 inches in height and about 6 inches in diameter (this is shown in Fig. 1 ) the next tin being about
;
HOW
twice the height of the
;
TO
MAKE A PHOTOGRAPHIC
STILL.
135
first,
diameter (Fig. 2) whilst the third tin is 6 inches high, and about 10 inches in diameter (see
Fig.
3).
When
"We
shall
also
require,
from an
from the
long
is sufficiently heated, remove it and give it a wipe with a rag, in order to clear off any loose ashes afterwards, then wet filing the end until quite bright the cloth with soldering fluid (made by dis-
the bolt
fire,
and again give the end of the bolt a wipe with The tinning solder (which is sold by all ironmongers in the form of thin strips) is now rubbed on the end of the bolt, to which some of it will adhere, thus tinning it ready for
this.
use.
If
it is
not
made
its
face for
again
requiring
tinning.
Having
carefully
hold them together securely, and draw some soldering fluid round the proposed join by means
of a thin slip of wood, or a feather
;
then drop
a small piece of solder on it, and immediately apply the heated bolt, drawing the latter steadily and rapidly round the joint as soon as the solder
begins to flow.
If this
is
line.
(a,
When
be
to cut
the
steam-pipe
tinman's
bolt.
"When ready, take the small tin (Fig. 1), and punch a hole in the side at about inch from the top, the diameter being 1
about
plate,
I
\ inches
then cut
into
a hole in the lid, and solder a rim of round it, thus forming a neck to take the glass tube and cork (Fig. 5), after which the lid is securely soldered on to the body of the tin. Having made the still, or boiler, we must next direct our attention to the condenser, which
tin
is
of
shown
which
(see
fitted
this
opening, with
1
the
inch in diameter
tightly into the
larger end of
aperture in the
securely,
solder the
little
two together
as
possible.
using
as
solder
Place the soldering-iron (or tinman's bolt, as it should be more properly called) in a clear fire,
let it
A hole, nearly an punched in the side of this, at about an inch from the top (see b, Fig. 2), and a piece of tin, 2 inches in length, is bent round a pencil and soldered into the opening thus made, in a similar manner to that previously described a hole is next punched through the bottom of the tin, through which the funnel end of the steam cylinder (Fig. 6) is passed, and soldered as shown in Fig. 2, at c, another hole being
the interior arrangement.
inch in diameter,
is
burning
that
is
is to
made near
ing iron,
in reality
made
of copper.
Should
it
Fig. 2)
this
which
is
also soldered
lid
will
"When
136
HOW
TO
MAKE A PHOTOGRAPHIC
STILL.
and a hole is punched through an inch from one side, into which the glass safety funnel is fixed by means of a The lid, which stout cork, as shown in Fig. 4. will not require soldering, is now placed on the top of the condenser, as will be seen in Fig. 2, after which this portion of the still may be
of the tin is taken,
it
at about half
any unnecessary expense, a plan will now be described whereby the reader may readily make a good Bunsen burner suitable for this purpose.
sufficient
is
wound
small
in a spiral
round a
wire
stick
to
fit
of
diameter, and
afterwards
made
over an
ordinary
gas-burner, the
being
drawn
placed
aside
while
being made.
diameter
is
An
made
admitting the
air,
and
several holes
are
end of the
will
spiral.
Beference to Fig. 8
help
to
The 24-inch
of
ex-
length
iron
into
is
strap
plain this
contrivance.
simple
three
portions,
and
11'
up
to
The apparatus being by this time completed, is ready for immediate use,
and may be put
in
action
in
the
following manner.
It
will
be found
about
convenient to provide
box
on
the angle.
are ready,
When
slits
which
still
to place the
when
in use,
are the
tin
made through
side
of
the
Assumlay the
at about
an inch
box on its side, lid downwards, as shown in Fig, 9, and bore a hole through the right-hand end of the upper side,
size to admit the funnel of the steam cylinder; then place the condenser in position upon the top of the box, and insert the funnel through this opening, afterwards locating the furnace close to the condenser, with
of sufficient
It will thus
or boiler.
Fig. 7
is
plan of the
the centre
the
still
or boiler inside,
inside of
above
in
in
furnace to
admit the flame from the Bunsen is thus brought to play direct upon the bottom of the still.
burner, which
The steam pipes from the boiler and now fitted one over the other, and steam tight, by means of a piece joint made the
latter.
condenser are
located
to
opening in
137
The
glass tube
5)
are
to
the
in
order
may
with
this metal,
the latter to be
more than
will
not rust.
larger or
The
still
can, of course, be
made much
the condenser
kept proportionate.
with cold water, after which a bottle is placed in the box beneath the funnel, and the gas is lit. The steam passes from the boiler of the still into the steam cylinder of the
condenser by
way
of the pipes (a
and
d,
Figs.
when, by reason of the cold water surrounding the cylinder, the steam is condensed,
and
E.
J.
GAWTBORP.
Wheels Foundation
of Station Lines.
fok
2),
Introduction -Making
and the
c
distillate escapes
by means
of the pipe
Permanent
Way Plan
(Fig.
2)
box
NE
said of
of the
beneath to receive it. Fresh cold water shoidd occasionally be poured through the funnel into the condenser; this reaches the bottom, and gradually ascending replaces the water which
has become warm, which may now be drawn
off
one
can indulge in
;
that of
toy
truly
making and this may be most making the more scientific toys.
We
venture to think that a model railway, one even that has no mechanical motive power, may be
fairly classed
by means
It is
2).
may take
be projected up to a
day he
may
Was
it
not
steam cylinder of the condenser. If the boiler were to be filled with water, it would not leave
sufficient
room
George Stephenson who, in his boyhood, spent his spare minutes in making model pile-drivers One thing, at least, is certain, and cranes ? such an occupation will awaken his powers of
observation.
It is a
By
it
remarkable
fact, that
although railway
latter,
it
from the
still,
will show the operator by the height of the water in the tube the height of the liquid
contained in the
still.
Then, again,
if
the water
should have fallen below the tube which, by the way, should be about an inch from the bottom steam will be seen to issue from the orifice of
the glass tube, thus indicating the small amount
of water contained in the boiler.
It is
of drawing, are able to sketch one that is anything like correct, simply because they do not use their powers of observation. In proof of
this
statement, one has only to look at the drawings on furniture vans vulgarly known
as
"Noah's Arks"
or
at excursion
and
coal
always
drawings would
first and last half a pint which passes over. The boiler of the still can readily be cleaned by removing the glass tube and inserting a bottle-brush through the opening. When distillation is ended for the day, the still should be taken to pieces, cleaned and dried, and put away ready for the
not even be complimentary to the engines of have even seen twenty or thirty years ago.
We
in
for
making
next time
will
strict
it
prevent
The
the driving wheels are larger, the body and tender are higher, and the funnel shorter than
vol. in. (n.s.)
138
of old.
dome
is
places
signal, so
done away with, and the front set of wheels are affixed to a "bogie," or pivoted truck, attached to the framework, and usually projecting considerably in front. Of course, on different lines
the
may
it.
before he reaches
portant, and but
their
little
understood
gauges of lines, signals, etc., vary considerably, and therefore it were best for the amateur builder not to follow
types
of rolling
stock,
we
more
immediately following.
and described
In these articles it is presumed that the amateur possesses a lathe, and a fair knowledge
of its use, is equal to soft soldering,
and
fitted
may
constantly
have
real
models
to
out with a chest of generally useful tools. Of course, the more skilled
amateur may readily improve his model by the greater use of the lathe,
and
by
;
substituting
be
stated,
wood
but
to
as
we
not
are
writing
novice,
assist
the
the
and
skilled
that
the
arm
the
of
work-
affecting
man,
to his
vices,
we
will
progress
own
and
de-
en-
deavour even to
j:
as viewed from the
G
bring our work
engine in question, and always has its red side facing the driver. No matter how many arms may be on a post,
this is the invariable rule.
down
access
to to
the level of a
lathe,
those
but
who
Although
to suit
such
we may
substitute
cardboard for turned wood and metal, we fear that we are not so likely to be successful without
soft soldering
;
readily seen from the engine. There are two kinds of signals besides the subsidiary ones for shunting and for light engines, which are usually denoted by an iron ring on the arm, or which are simply reversible pedestal lamps viz., "distant" and "home" The home signal is that which regusignals. lates the traffic, and the distant signal is its counterpart, often used on curves and other
position most
this
is,
and a
make
perfect.
Without further introductory remarks, let us now, with a full understanding of what we are about to undertake, commence in real earnest the practical building of a model railway. Our advice is, begin with the wheels, and then we have a fixed size to fit our rails to. The width
139
every part of the road and rollingstock; so let the reader choose for himself what
at
much
extra cost.
dimensions he intends to work to, and in this choice he must he regulated somewhat by the
space at his disposal.
size, as
template of this wheel in a piece of stout zinc or brass, as Fig. 2, and turn all the other wheels
to
fit
accurately.
the same
flanges
flanges)
way as
must he
settled
the thickness
made
to
(inclusive
both
in large
and
it
small
should precisely
will
go on.
lathe,
it is
made in pairs, united by one axle, and that many cases the wheels are solid, not having
the owner of the lathe turn in
quite possible to
Take a pair
if
Now let
boxwood
sharpen one leg into a cutting point, and with this cut
possible),
make up
Faste
the
which runs
upon the
be absolutely parallel
the
flange.
together,
ward.
its
The
sand in casting.
This
all
The
It
driving, or large
in the
engine wheels,
to use
may be made
size.
boxwood
it
must all be exactly the same length, out of smooth round wood, such as paint - brush handles, and pin and glue the wheels on to each end, the flanges being inside. These should represent the drawing for the metal wheel as nearly as possible, and should also be worked to the template. The edges of the wheels, when dry, can be smoothed up with a smooth file. Thus it will be seen that the wheels can be
better to
make them
of
metal.
made out
the most elaborate or the simplest tools. Should the worker desire to ornament the wheels, he
founder, and
order the required number of each in " fine " brass, for which he will charge about one shilling and sixpence per pound. In
can
drill
axle-tree,
and
file
turning the pattern for casting, it is well not to turn the uprights too straight, but slightly
eloping from centre to edge, in order to leave the sand more easily, and thus produce cleaner
he
may produce
is
but
the
we
this
quite
unnecessary, especially
"When these castings arrive, file off any extra roughness, then chuck one wheel in the lathe, and centre the other. Turn this pair up clean and smooth, and, if you like, hollow out
castings.
the face of the wheels, leaving a square-edged tyre all round, and a centre axle-tree. This is
Those who are proposing to make a set of purchased steam engines or models they already possess, must begin by making the gauge (Fig. 2), and see that all the wheels it just as well as if they were making fit
the wheels.
140
HOW
to
TO
IT.
or permanent
HOW
IT.
5.
TO
but we must first find or make something on which to lay the metals. The simplest plan is to obtain a three-quarter board, planed on one side, and make three or four pairs of legs out of about three by three quartering, attaching these
way
OUTFIT FOE
A.
ALLEN,
board
III.
Light Apparatus.
may be affixed against a wall by means of common iron brackets, to be purchased at any ironmongers, just as a shelf is erected. The width of the board may be supplemented
or this board
S HI
by the addition of pieces of three-quarter wood battened underneath, to allow of extra sidings
at stations or ends.
we
will
condensers
into
;
tubes
made
On
Solder
board draw out a plan of the lines as they are intended to be laid. Fig. 3 is a suggestion for the plan of one end of the line, in which two roads are doubled with platforms between and connected
across the end, four sets of end buffers, a short
for a standing engine with and the necessary connecting points. On this plan it will be seen that a train coming into the station is able to go on to any one of the four lines, and that a train leaving from any of the four is also able to go on to the correct line for, remember, trains almost invariably travel on the left of any pair of rails. This is the rule, but there are exceptions, generally caused by later additions or difficult crossings. In this case a train would leave by the line nearest the turntable, and arrive by that farthest from the The other terminus can be the same turntable. completely reversed, or it can have less or more
line
that
a flange on the one side with screw holes, so it may be secured to the inside of the body
(see Figs. 10 and 11). It should be quite flush with the outside, and the lens must fit properly,
so that
it
may be taken
The
branch
turntable,
frame of some
The most wood frame or carrier of their own; this protects them from being broken, but this makes them very heavy, and if you have many they would be out of the question at any rate, we want the ordinary
sort,
comes
next.
have some slides which is Z\ inches in the circle of the picture, and Z\ inches square outside, so we want two pieces of very thin wood secured together top and bottom, open at the ends, and with a 3J-inch hole in the centre (see Figs 12 and 13).
carrier, for
we
shall
be sure
to
unframed, the
ordinary size of
lines,
according
to
Now to
it is
There may be intermediate stations, each of which should have a single shunt running in the opposite direction to the trains, as will be seen later in Fig. 8, the arrows indicating the direction of the trains traversing those lines.
make an arrangement
We
as before, but
The
running fast, facing-points are somewhat dangerous, and are therefore avoided as much as possible. Of course, in the case of a branch line, facingpoints are necessary, and there they are generally protected by an automatic mechanical apparatus, which is not only unnecessary in this model, but extremely difficult to make.
is
that
when a
train
is
done by putting two pieces of wood together it must be stronger and better made ; it must also have something to hold the slide holder fast and firm, and guides to raise or lower it, not forgetting a screw to tilt it so as
to get all the pictures to coincide
on the screen
when
wood
dissolving.
Cut two pieces of good but thin wood (fretwill do very well) 6 inches square, with
wood
of
inch
square
in
section
get
a piece
HOW
TO
IT.
141
planished sheet brass inch in thickness, cut a hole with the fret-saw to correspond with the
woodwork, polish well with pumice-stone and water, and finish it with slate, then figure it all over by rubbing, with a circular motion, with a
hole in the square brass, where it must be well secured either by soldering or rivetting, or both.
To make a neat job, it should have a collar to butt against (see Fig. 14).
The square
plate
is
secured to the
wood with
round-beaded brass screws, and must have a hole in each corner for the guides of the plate
that holds the sUde carrier in position
also
;
this
is
made
of metal, to
fit
before.
inch,
It should project
on each
side,
say
ordinary slate pencil cut to a chisel point. little taste and patience you will make a nice job of this.
bit of
With a
Now
fit
and the ends should be rounded to the front to allow the carrier to slip in and out (Fig. The guides are screwed at the ends, and 15). fitted with thumb-nuts for adjustment (Fig. 16) a spring, top and bottom, to push it up against the carrier a bit of American clock mainspring, which can be got at any watchmaker's for the asking, and bent into the shape shown
into the
in Fig. 16.
142
HOW
and
fall,
The guide
piece, to rise
little
brass
The wigs
nut (see Fig. 17). In order to adjust the three sets of lenses to one centre we must have a screwed piece of brass fixed on the lantern, and a large milled nut to run on the screw, which also work on a
plate secured to the top of the fronts (see Figs.
may be
grey, as desired.
you wish
18 and 19).
The
front lenses
must now be
lenses
fitted into
the
face should
bald, black,
side
smallest tube.
Some
which
are
sold
with a
should
much
the best
way
of
bushy,
doing
it.
upon the stage, the be made slightly pale, and a half or iron grey wig and whiskers at be worn. The eyes should be the lines on the face so intro-
The fronts are now finished, and only require lacquering, for particulars of which see later on.
ful appearance.
HOW
For a country lad, a sailor, or soldier, or for any character where the face is supposed to have been exposed to the heat of a tropical climate, it is best to use ruddy rouge. Firstly, powder the face and neck with fuller's earth, and then apply a slight coating of ruddy rouge or pure carmine all over the face and throat
this will impart a healthy,
sunburnt complexion.
HI
WILL now
concise
proceed
plain
to
give
some
for
but
instructions
Next put lines under the eyebrows, and somewhat boldly over the rest of face, determining the quantity by the age of the character using No. 11 or 12 grease paint for this purpose, or if water colour, burnt umber or Indian ink. The lines in these characters require to be somewhat heavily drawn and with a deep colour, otherwise
;
making-up the various low comedy and character parts, following on with some directions for reproducing the types of make-up
incidental to the different
nationalities of the
to
they are
lost,
or,
at least, lose
much
of their
The
world.
many
who
besides
This
as
actor.
class
of
character
beadles,
such
parts
policemen,
eyebrows require touching up, and a little powdered blue applied to the chin, throat, and sides of face. Lastly, put on the wig, and powder the face slightly with fuller's earth, to tone down any harsh colouring, and the makeup is about complete. The very opposite to these characters pale, wan, or sallow complexions, representative of
and
many
Prepare the face for these characters by covering it with a thin layer of No. 2| medium flesh colour, heighten up the cheeks, nose, etc., with No. 3^ or No. 4 flesh colour, also apply a little to the centre of the forehead and over the eyebrows. The lines must be put
others.
bad health, result of a fast town life, and death are made up as follows For death, powder the face well with fuller's earth, and apply powdered Dutch pink, or smear the face Apply slightly with No. 5 or 5J grease paint.
illness,
:
with a small piece of cotton wool, attached to a brush handle, some powdered antimony under
the
and
in
the
it is
hollows.
With
143
some
of the
antimony
to the hollows
;
and chin also slightly shade the sides of the nose and in between the eyebrows. A little chrome shoidd be put on the front of the nose, the eyelids, and
the nostrils
;
must be clearly denned with burnt umber or No. 10 grease paint. The lines about the eyes,
must be put in according to the age and the whole make-up softened off with pearl powder. For death, the lips should be tinted with powdered blue or
etc.,
OLDING!
folding!! folding!!!
With
as I
mouth,
me; and
of
the
character,
am
grease
paint.
pale,
wan complexion
is
obtained by giving the face a thin coat of No. 5 grease paint, and putting a very faint touch of No. 3 complexion colour on the cheeks and
eyelids.
contempt and discarding my labour, and trying paper round the ink-pot, and fold the pen inside these, and then fold the lot into a thimble. But I am prevented from doing so
to fold the
slightly with
No.
6,
all
attempts at such
impossibility.
in an
my
sallow, pale
complexion is similarly made up, using instead No. 5 grease paint. A few touches of colour may be introduced under the eyes, and lines painted beneath the lower eyelashes. The treatment of dark or olive complexions, as used
in such characters as the
come
I
of
and smile placidly as I set forth the outmy endeavours which has received the
the beginning of this paper.
title at
am
and readers of this magazine will new now and again in this something receive
character,
direction.
Moor
of Venice, the
Count Karateff, etc., require some care, great pains being taken not to overdo the make-up, and thus obtaining a comical appearance where one is not wanted. If the make-up is a dry
or
is
to
my
careful consideration.
The com-
powdered one, ruddy rouge with which mixed some Dutch pink must be used, and
munication was from a reader of this magazine, who stated that he wished for a design of a music stand which would be capable of being
folded into the compass of a rod or walking-stick. Now, before I proceed further, I consider I
throw up the expression a strong line must be introduced under the eyelashes. The eyebrows, moustaches, etc., must be black, and the usual lines introduced to indicate the age of the
to
;
ought
to
my
readers
whom
may
character.
The
chin
should receive a
little
powder blue. If grease paints are used for the make-up and these are best for the characters employ No. 15 for the complexion, not over-
is to be had from a gentleman Haymarket, London. This is Mr. Butler, musical instrument maker and contractor to the
such a description
in the
War
particulars to applicants.
doing
stick.
it,
The Jew
character
is not by any means an unknown upon the stage, and in such parts
The stand, however, has but a single upright, and is made of iron. The lower portion of it cannot be more appropriately defined than by comparing it, when folded, to a closed umbrella
with three ribs
inside
out.
;
and,
when open,
amateurs
to
an umbrella
therefore,
exhibit
his
is
Many
one.
will,
this,
it
however,
had best be
them
Of course,
it
is
utterly
on.
144
or in succession
care for
my
design.
no matter what it may be it nearly always happens that either appearance is forced to give
way
ance.
to utility,
or
remember, however, that thousands of persons read this magazine, and that I should hardly relish thousands of such applications. Very few would need my help but there may be some young be;
utility to
appear-
ginners
among
us,
article
and
it is
for these
whom
simple
cover
I speak.
pretensions to ap-
pearance
fact will
way
what
to dissizes
it
is
be underrefer1
to
stood
by a
to
a
of
large
ence
Figs.
sheet
white
and
the
2,
and
upwards.
spectively.
Its
folding
source of
if it
needed
cross
quality will in no
roughly indicate
way be a
made
be
;
uprights,
rails,
weakness,
as
it
is
should
present
is
and I believe
the
sketch
until
may be
re-
that
peatedly
altered
earnest amateur
certain pro-
workman
of
tolerably
capabilities.
skilful
decided upon.
this
In
manner the
preferable
most
disap-
thicknesses
and
pointment in any
reader by deciding
not to mention any
sizes to build this
no more,
di-
then,
in this
stand to
this part
rection.
In folding
the
am
this
in
by the
FIG. FIG.
I.2.-
cross rails
but
be-
-STAND EXTENDED READY FOR USE. -STAND FOLDED TO PACK INTO CASE.
cause giving sizes may not be suitable in every direction. If, after having read my remarks, anyone finds it difficult
to arrive at
middle,
when the music frame will collapse into a single length over the uprights, and the feet
;
when
all will
appear
ment
tell
me
I will deal with the uprights first. It must be obvious to all that a greater probability exists of more strength being obtained by the
145
of
their
free
The
Each
is
considered
fix
by some
to
be
at all
difficult
matter to
FiG
FIG5.
9.
AND 5. ELEVATIONS SHOWING METHOD OF FOLDING FRAME. FIGS. 6, 7, AND 8. ELEVATIONS SHOWING 4, 3, METHOD OF FOLDING FEET. FIGS. 9 AND IO. ALTERNATIVE JOINT FOR UPRIGHTS AND CROSS RAILS RESPECTIVELY. FIG. II. SHOWING HOW UPRIGHTS AND CROSS RAILS ARE FOLDED. FIG. 12. SIDE ELEVATION OF FRAME, ETC. FIGS. 13 AND 14. BRASS RING TO CONNECT PAIR OF RAILS ATTACHED TO FEET. FIG. 15. ALTERNATIVE ADDITION FOR MUSIC FRAME. FIGS. 16 AND 17. BOLT AT BACK OF TOP CROSS RAIL WHEN LATTER IS FOLDED AND STRAIGHT RESPECTIVELY. FIG. 18. TOP OF THE UPRIGHTS WHEN CLOSED TOGETHER. FIG. 19. ONE OF THE MUSIC HOOKS.
to
and hinged
fold upwards.
Each
half will
fit
when
the stand
is closed,
and may
originally be cut from them. The proper ends are hinged to the inside of the uprights, and the end edges of them might
will be that shown by Figs. 9 and 10; the ends of the cross rails being treated as there indicated (Fig. 10), and being secured to the
method
uprights by having a small pin driven through them and the latter. The position of these cross
146
rails,
is
not a
the slotted rail working over the pivots in the tops of the uprights, and appear as in Fig. 5.
The small bend of the slot must be in length the same as the distance between the two
pivots, inclusive,
have only one cross rail, as in that event there would always be a possibility of the tops of the uprights falling towards each other, which chance is entirely obviated by the use of two rails. Let us at this point take the music frame into consideration. There will be a top and a bottom rail, each grooved on the inside to a good depth. At each end will be pivoted to these a bar, of
to
be almost useless
when
together.
It is necessary that the heads of the pivots on somewhat below the sur-
face of the slotted rail, unless very flat-headed ones are used as the frame proper (Fig. 3)
;
just
sufficient
thickness as will
to.
fit
into
the
further be folded over the front of the slotted rail (Fig. 2), and it would not there lay flat if the heads of the pivots just spoken of projected to any noticeable degree.
would
still
On
rail. "When all is folded, this show upon the front (Fig. 2). It is impossible to fit the frame with any fretwork, if all is to fold as shown therefore, I considered that the brass rail would be an acceptable feature.
;
The feet are awaiting attention. They must not be thicker than the top slotted rail. It is by these means that the stand can be made adjustable to various heights. Glance at Figs. 6, 7,
and
8
;
there
it
can be seen
how they
fold,
and
how they
are hinged.
Two
two brass
rails
pivoted together to
pivoted respectively to a foot in each pair, and This latter are themselves pivoted together. junction is not directly connected with the
It would then upon small pin-heads in the front of the frame, and always be detachable. This latter part would be the only piece which would necessarily be removable from the
woodwork, as
I
it
not very well acquainted with metal working, but a simple way of securing these brass rails together is shown in Fig. 14.
am
brass ring,
slit at
remainder.
The frame should be hinged top rail of the same length as is shown in Figs. 3, 4, and
traverse the leDgth of
it,
to a rather
itself.
wide
rail
This
slot
5.
will
at
and be continued
it.
Through the lower portion of each upright will be holes, and a peg passing through either of them and the hole at the top of the brass side
rails, will
The
corner thus formed within the slot could be rounded off. The rail must be exactly equal in width to the width of the two uprights combined and the slot in it must be at a distance of one-quarter of its width from the top edge of it. A pivot will pass through it at the left-hand side, and one at the right-hand side, respectively, into the top of the left and right uprights. The latter are shown, with dots indicating the pivots,
;
The
retain the feet in the desired position. longer the feet are the higher will be the
stand
are the hooks to keep the frame at an angle, a fastening for one of Of the the cross-rails, and the music hooks. former, one will be sufficient; but I advise
the use
best.
two one at each side as beiDg They must not be very thick, and should
of to
be secured
side rails.
catching on to small
in Fig. 18.
The
the uprights, as in Fig. 12, pin- heads on the frame's length of these hooks will decide
During the
as in Fig. 4
;
folding,
when
will
will
appear
to fall of
when
it
be allowed
side,
the angle at which the frame may be fixed to ; and if three or four pin-heads are driven in the frame, the latter will be further adjustable
to various degrees.
by means
A LEVER ENGINE.
On
the top cross-rails, between the uprights,
Its use is not absolutely
147
should be a fastening.
necessary, but
it is
be
sufficient. It
described for beam engine in Vol. II. of Amateur "Work, page 530. The fly-wheel shaft is \ inch diameter inside the bearings, the ends being turned down to
Figs. 16 and 17 explain this. For the music hooks, two simple pieces of wire, bent as in Fig. 19, and rounded at the part which enters the wood, will be sufficient.
of the rail. If this stand is constructed properly,
it will,
f inch, leaving a shoulder inside the bearings. The bearings are of cast iron, with brasses and
covers
;
when
rigid as a solidly
made
;
one,
them stronger. The fly-wheel is 9 inches diameter, turned and bored, and keyed on the shaft, to run in the
centre of framing.
another in this form and when folded, it will occupy as little space as it is possible to squeeze anything of the kind into. For convenience, it
is
pencil
pack
it
into
for purposes
of
transport or storage.
The crank may be wrought or cast iron, turned and keyed on the end of shaft with a pin Fix the f inch long, for connecting rod. bearings in the centre of framing, lay shaft in, and plumb from the centre of crank pin, which will give the centre of cylinder, and can now be fixed on base board. The piston rod
must be 1 inch longer than cylinder, having a cross head with double end, into which the lower end of connecting rod is fixed, as shown in
Fig. 2
;
A LEVER ENGINE.
Bv ELECTROX.
EJP|JIIIS engine
lUfl&Sfl
is called a lever engine, on account of the motion of the piston rod being formed by two levers
is
fitted
atSSkH
connected
by a
link.
Fig. 1
it
is
a side elevation
made of iron plate inch up to shape, and kept apart by turned pins, which may be fixed by nuts, or riveted at the outside, as shown in
The
levers
are
thick;
Fig.
3.
a model 1^-inch bore, and 3-inch stroke. The bedplate, columns, and top framing may be of iron, but in the model referred to they were
the ends.
Pins for the links must be riveted in at The links are formed with three sets
formed of wood.
long,
9 inches wide,
1
columns,
and l thick, turn four inch diameter, with caps and bases
1
inch
long
and f inch diameter. Make the top framing 1 inch deep, and 1 inch thick, dovetailed together the frame may be 3 inches wide
and bottom brasses two pins with shoulders are fixed in the centre to keep them the right distance apart, the outside rods pass through holes drilled in the brasses, and are screwed at the ends, and The levers are fixed to bearings fixed by nuts. screwed to the columns, and should be set so
of brasses in each, the top
being
split
when
the
;
then bore four holes in the base board, and four in the top frame, and fix the columns with glue, and pass a screw up from the under
inside
;
the centre pins should when in this position, be inch past the centre The eccentric sheave has a boss of piston rod.
engine
is
at half stroke
formed on one
shaft
;
side,
and
is
made
to slide
on the
board into each column, and one from the top side of frame into each column.
side of base
Make
the moulding
-f
this will
and a pin screwed into the shaft works in the slot, and carries the sheave round the slot must be cut so that when the pin is at one end, the sheave is in position for working the engine in one direction, and
a slot
is
The
and
is
cylinder
is
made
in
the
when at the other end, in the opposite direction. The eccentric rod is connected to a cranked
148
A LEVER ENGINE.
shown
is
lever, as
in Fig. 4,
it
working in that
direction,
the lever
connected by a rod to a lever on the rocking shaft, on which it can be fixed by a notch a handle is formed on the end of the rod
;
and the
not
bright
should
be
painted
to
to lift
it
in
The rocking
shaft
FIG.4
and
Eccentric
hand gear
F .G
I
E.
nd u
ew
F IG.I
Side
ELlevaci
if
linKS
&,
cross'nead.
_L]fc_
fh
~W
f"
I
G .3
Plan view of
works the
square
slide valve
by
a lever working in a
;
slot in the
valve spindle
shaft,
a handle
is
also
engine
is
reversed
rod
is
lifted out
of gear.
When
Engeavings or photographs that are framed wood up to the edge look much better if the frame is rather flat and the wood is stained to harmonize with the tones of the picture. A silver or bronze beading is often used on the outside of the frame instead of inside next the picture.
in
end of the
which puts
Builder and
Woodworker.
"AMATEUR
IJ'ORA'"
PRIZE SCHEME.
competitors
149
AMATEUR WORK
who
Mr.
S. P.
Smithin,
who
PRIZE SCHEME.
This month I offer the following prizes for
competition
VI.
:
made from Corks"; Mr. H. W. Sehofield, "How to Utilize Lantern Transparencies." These papers will be
published in due course.
II.
Prize of One Guinea for the best Print from a Half-plate View Negative. Amateur photo-
of finest
workmanship and
and guaranteed perfect), for the best descripcheap but effective PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO suitable for construction by an Amateur. Details of oost must be given, and the MS. must
tion of a
work
it
says
much
the
prize that
his
exhibit of
four prints
;
(1)
Fishing Cottage on
;
dimensions marked.
Attention
is
called to
Rule
2.
at Richmond Ruined Weir on River Colne, at West Drayton View on the River Colne, Huntsmore Park
(2)
The Thames
TIL A
and
the
stands out in
The
artist
is
best set
three
PLATINOTYPE PRINTS.
must be mounted, and the
competitor written on the
Mr. H. Judson, Ivy Cottage, Cowley, near Uxbridge, Middlesex and his work leaves nothing to be desired, either from an artistic or technical point
;
each
set.
The
of view.
prints of
He
labeL
"All the four views were taken with Lancaster's Rectigraph lens on Ilford ordinary plates, and printed on Leisgang's Aristotype, toned with Fallowfield's combined toning and fixing bath.
No.
1
RULES.
(1).
exposure
second in
1
October
2th
developed
hydroquinone,
1J
Ilford
formula.
No.
as
2,
F.30
exposure
seconds in
very bright
;
developer
No. 3, F.20.
exposure
second in bright
;
(2).
MS. must
be written on one side only of the paper, and drawings must be on separate paper. Each sheet of MS. or drawings to have the name and address of the competitor clearly written on the
developer
No.
4,
F.20
sunshine, at 11 a.m.
Mr.
the
"On
and
printed
on
Ilford
bromide
Each
article
paper developed with ferrous oxalate. Mr. T. E. " View of Levesdeu Hill exhibits two pictures
:
number
at
which he
(5).
enters.
The decision
some
good work
from
in
this
case are
much
Mr. T. Powers contributes a snow scene. This has been produced from an excellent negative, but a better result would have been attained by printing on a matt surface paper, and a colder tone would be an improvement. The
above the average.
sky should be slightly tinted, as in a scene of this kind the
snow
itself
light.
OTHER THAN FRETWORK. Mr. W. H. Eradburne, Church Stretton. Salop, takes the prize with a well written paper entitled " Easy Con...VOEK
Mr. F.
difficult
little
J.
A. Shaw has
made
a good attempt at a
A subject: " Nant Falls, Fairy Glen." more exposure would have made this a most
Other
artistic picture.
150
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
A
Prize of One Guinea fob the best Specimen of
Fretcutting.
III.
this competition
difficulty
was
eo
was
and instructor in the important department of technical education of which it treats. The illustrations are contained on 18 folding sheets and 155 illustrations in
the text.
It
was
finally
Finedon,
S.
Tool Catalogue.The
logue,
John Wilkinson
pages,
Co.,
W.
me an
excellent cata-
containing
ninety-six
fully
Mr.
Blake,
" Cuthbert,"
needed by amateurs in all branches of mechanical work. I notice several matters that are not included in our English catalogues, and I can strongly recommend this list to my
describing
machines, tools,
and materials
American readers.
Fretwork Designs.
all
com-
petitors, as giving
Messrs.
Henry
This
is
and
prize
awarded
for
of
work
rather than of
published a book of twenty-four easy designs for beginners. These patterns cannot fail to give satisfaction, since they
are not only easy of execution, but (what does not always follow) are artistic. I have seen designs with much more
cutting in
competition.
The
so effective.
cost of each
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By
THE EDITOR.
: Messrs. Henry Zilles and Co., 24 and 26, Finsbury, London, E.C.. Price 6d. The January part of this favourite magazine for fretworkers iB. a particularly good number. It contains two folding sheets
The Amateur
Street,
Wilson
and carving.
work is the Handybooks for Haudycrafts. It gives information on the tools and processes used in the department of woodworking known
at 2s.
latest addition to the
This
series of
describing
as cabinet work.
Maria Lane, E.C. Price 2d. An interesting little pamphlet and illustrating most of the practical uses to which electricity has been applied.
The Watkins Exposure Metre. The inventor says of this instrument that it " is something more than a mere guide
for beginners
;
Photography for Architects. Iliffe and Son, 3, 6'. Bride There can be no doubt that a E.C., 2s. 6d. knowledge of photography is of decided advantage to But busy men cannot architects in their profession. afford time to explore the whole field of photography
Street,
it is
is
far
more
reliable
an accurate and exact calculator which than the estimate of even the most
To
such this
little
work
is
recommended
as dealing concisely
and
strictly
interior
of
photographer, when treating of difficult combination of a bromide of silver actinometer, a chain pendulum for timing exposure, and a set of calculating rings, each carrying a pointer, which, when set to the correct value for each factor, causes a fifth
experienced
subjects."
It is a
The Building and Machine Draughtsman (Ward, Lock and Co.). A practical guide to the projection and
pointer to indicate the correct exposure in seconds or fracI had an opportunity of testing this instrument on one or two occasions at the end of last
tions of a second.
delineation
of subjects
met with
Beason,
engineer,
building constructor,
with
supplied by
It is and obtained some very exact exposures. or by post 12s. 9.1. all dealers, price 12s. 6d.
;
instructions as
the setting
drawings. This work forms a valuable addition to the draughtsman's text books, more especially as it brings
together into one work information that has frequently to
titles,
an advantage
specimens of his have not goods, which are well worth notice; but as I a sufficient space here to do them justice, I must defer
Levenshulme,
sends
me
The
more complete
is
treated,
with the large number of illustrations, makes the work a thoroughly practical guide to,
and
in conjunction
moderate price of 12s. 6d. a hinge tap, non-leaking pocket which will prove a great boon to bicyclists also adjustable wrenches for screw taps.
oil-can,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
the causes of
first failures,
151
and
in such
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
OPEX TO ALL HEADERS.
Vou should use a developer which you can mix for yourself, such as Berkeley's
I sent on your sodic sulphite (which is best for all R. A. R. Bennett, beginners), or any formula of pyro and The developer you used President of the Photographic Section ammonia. Photographic Difficulties. of the Oxford Natural History Soctety, for these plates is very convenient for " Camera" writes: May I trouble whose reply will assist you and others travelling when you have done plenty you to give me a helping band ? I was in a similar predicament. He says of work, but not good to begin upon. an enthusiastic photographer in the " There is not so much difference as all You will find plenty of good formulae
is
hand
invaluable.
negatives to Mr.
that
between
the
wet
;
if
compelled me to give up entirely just I a*m as dry plates were coming in. just now in a position to go back to my old hobby, but things have changed. The "wet'' and "dry" seem to have
nothing in common, and
perience
is
process in photography
ference,
graphy.'
of course,
is
the rapidity of
assistance."
wet plates. The image must come up very slowly you must not expect to
;
R. A. R. Bennett. ]
my
old
exfirst
How
Jas.
to
make a Music
writes
see
it
it
usually
nothing to go by.
I don't
My
The
Scott
556,
"That
Stool.
Fig.
is
colour
(page
November Part)
not
know where
you
have
first
failed.
I therefore send
my
Now,
as to
No.
1 is
;
very foggy
were taken was about as bad as could all through, as you say you ought to thick cloud, some fog, and very have tried on a good day be if you had dull generally. The subject, of course such a bad day, how can you form any is nothing, as I am experimenting at From the ideas from the results ? present for exposure and development. general aspect of No. 1, it looks to me The " artistic " comes on presently. exceedingly probable that light got into No. 1, my first plate, I gave 4 different the camera, or the dark-slide, while the
:
;
exposures, viz.
4 seconds, 9 seconds, plate was in it. You must carefully 15 seconds, 20 seconds. Result a examine the camera, for a minute pindense fog on all 4 sections of the hole would be fatal to the more rapid
:
plate.
seconds
don't
dry plates.
frightfully
know which had which But any developed. In a fog the exposure is way, they are no good. What is the much prolonged, and two seconds would matter ? No. 4, interior, 34. minutes. not be enough for the plates you used. This negative appears printable, but No. 3 is more under-exposed than No. 2, looks to me as if it was fogged. Is it ? and more under-developed. No. 4 is I know I am. all right where it is right it is not All the above were taken at the same foggy at all, and with a plain pyrogallic time, with F. 16, and developed with acid developer would have come out
;
the
same developer.
;
Plates,
Ilford
correctly
drawn,
and
should
be as
enough
as
it
is,
ordinary
developer,
Oldham's
dry
sketch herewith."
The
powder developer. Inductorlum. root of all your troubles is lack of " F. 0. " ( Birmingham). I ilon't want the negatives back, thank density, which is due either to the With all you My dark room is lighted through plates or to your mistakes in developing. respect to "F.C.," I think if he had read one thickness of ruby fabric and one of The plates you used are rather apt to the article carefully with reference to canary. Is this enough? I am using give this. You had better use the Ilford the winding of the wire on the sections, Lancaster's J-plate Instantograph. It white label extra rapid, which have he would not have needed to write, and would be a great boon if someone would much more silver in them, or Thomas's consequently so much space might have prepare specimen sets of negatives, extra rapid plates. You did not de- been occupied by other matter. At the thus one correctly exposed and de- velop long enough, evidently you must same time, it is always a pleasure to veloped one under-exposed and over- go on until you can see no picture at help one to understand a point. I may developed one over-exposed and over- all on the plate, nothing but a black say, however, that I tried to make the developed. Is there any use in asking smudge with a faint outline and when matter plain. "F. C." asks "Should some friendly disposed reader to do you hold it up to the red light before not the coil be reversed first, and then this act of charity ? fixing, you should not be able to see at the pinhole made in the left band disc ? [Many beginners experience the same all througb the densest parts, and only I shall be glad if you will kindly inform difficulty as yourself in not knowing faintly through the thinnest I parts. me if I am right on the article."
152
must
state
first
AMATEURS IN
refer
COUNCIL.
microscope for projection, the focusing
" F. C.
" to
VII., bottom of
first
page 185, Vol. in danger of corroding and eating the column. I there wire away, and so ultimately causing a no danger, as he fears, that the heat developed by the current would melt the solder. If battery power was to be used sufficient to melt solder, long before that point was reached the coil would break down by the destruction of the insulation.
break.
is
with emphasis that when the space is filled, two other rings and
There
must be placed, one on each side I then say " The next point is a matter of the utmost importance. In
discs
it
of
withdrawn from its guide the is removed from the focusing tube, and inserted in the place of the latter, after being wrapped with one or two pieces of paper to make it fit. The
tube
is
;
draw tube
eyepiece the
is
now
inserted,
is,
replacing
the
tube
in
the
winder,
draw
tube
tube, that
with the
the microscope.
was at the left is With reference to the miniature now at the right." It seems to me Khomkorff coil, "F. C." asks if the nothing can be plainer. In the first addition of 2 or 3 ounces of wire to the place, the pinhole is at the left you fill coil would be sufficient to "light up the space and reverse it what was the the large size vacuum tubes." Now, as beginning of the wire is now at the tubes vary in size from 3 inches to 2 or join the wire to the projecting 3 feet, the question is somewhat vague. right Now in the Answering the question in a general end, and wind as before. pass way, I would say that a coil containing, disc at the left there is a pinhole this say, 4 ounces of wire, ought to light up the wire through it, and wind outside end and the outer end of the one or two 8-inch coils.
The
kind
is
then turned
down
into a
some
placed on the stage, and the lantern is arranged so as to project a bright sharp image of the flame upon
the back of the object.
A screen of white
cardboard
focussed
placed about 5 feet distant from the microscope, and the image is
is
The room
the draw tube. which the microscope is used must be made as dark as possible.
by
sliding
in
first
space
are
eventually
joined.
With
light
the
little coil
referred to I can
size
With
using one cell with zinc 4 by 2 inches, visible to twelve or fifteen persons. and 2 carbons. I think with larger The eyepiece belonging to this microbattery power I could light up two scope is of the negative kind, that is. The coil is such tubes with it. I built the coil the image is formed between the eye lens diBcs must now be put on. again reversed, and again the left hand with great care, to see what results and the field lens, when the eyepiece is Very good division must be begun by passing the could be obtained with a given quantity used in the regular way. results may be secured by the use of a wire through a pinhole at the bottom. of wire. being at the top, and the other at the Two other bottom of the division.
Here, then, we have the wire on the three spaces continuous, our joining
mentioned,
may
be projected so as to be easily
pinhole
is
made
If
" F.
C." wishes to
make a
coil
is
single lens.
before or after the disc is put on, as " F. C.'s" inquiry seems to ask, matters
UBing 2 or 3 ounces
questions will be
eyepiece
may
it is
much
in its
Make
the coil
make
it
before
it is
put
inch longer.
(3)
(2)
Ends inch
larger.
C. "
further asks
" Give
me
Primary wire two sizes larger. (4) Insulate between the layers most caretowards the end the insulation should be doubled between the layers, and see that no Bpaces are
fully
;
beam may
of light to pass.
be
shown
in
larger
animalculaj found in
rather fuller directions for winding and On page 182 there is the joining."
indeed,
The
most complete directions for winding, and in the Supplement a description of Has "F. C." read these? a winder. To repeat would be simply to waste
space.
as
thin as
As
for the
method
for joining
one layer so that the wire of possible, and if unmouuted should be pressed flat between two glasses. Some the next can sink between. (5) One or two cells of, say, zincs and carbons 3 care is necessary in placing the microtube and lantern tube axially in by 4 inches. These quantities, if put scope
left in
line.
It
is
necessary to support
the
explaining the
up one or two vacuum tubes from microscope at such a height as to cause the brightest part of the image of the 183, fourth line from the top of first 6 to 8 inches. 0. B. flame to fall upon the object. With column, and again, sixteenth line from I trust that Projecting Microscopic Slides, with the a strong light, such as is used in larger top of the second column. Magic Lantern. lanterns, the size of the image may be these hints will make matters clear.
mode
Magic Lantern. The following greatly increased. Mitre Cutter. "F. 0." asks if soft solder is used in simple method of using a small lantern H. I. {Lisbon). As you want a As resin is and inexpensive microscope, for microjoining the secondary wire. mentioned, it seems to me that he is in scopic projection, was originally de- machine to cut a moulding larger than doubt if I intended resin only, as he scribed by Geo. M. Hopkins, an 4 inches, I would advise you to write says " resin alone would not, I think, American scientist, and will no doubt to B. Melhuish and Son, 85 and, 87, solder copper wires together." Cer- suit your 'requirements. The lantern Fetter Lane, London, E.C., who will, if
0. B.
tainly
would not be serves as the illuminator, the microscope you mention this reply, send you an resin is stands as a support for the object, and illustrated price list of all the mitre mentioned specially because any acid the eyepiece of the microscope as a cutting machines in the market that To arrange the will take the size you require. fiux, such as muriate of zinc, would be projecting objective.
not
I
;
besides,
it
solder.
would
say
that
AMATEURS IN
Marble Top and Tiles for Washstand. B. E. (Portlaw, Ireland.) I give below some names and addresses of firms who manufacture tiles, etc. I hare not received, or asked, permission from either to publish such but you will remember, as I previously remarked,
COUNCIL.
An Amateur
1.33
W.
Aston (Birmingham).
difficult, if
It
would
be very
not impossible, to
make a saw spindle which would take saws having centre holes of different
sizes.
Preventing Rust on Tools. in Difficulties (Manchester). It is unfortunate that you are compelled to use so damp a place for a workshop but since it cannot be
all
the pre-
that
it
is
anyone named unless a trade card is enclosed with order, I can recall no house
who
retails
these
articles
separately
distinct goods ; and I have sought information from a few bedroom suite manufacturing acquaintances, but
and as
I do not wish to
all
would be to make cautions you can to avoid rust. Be careall the holes the same size, and have ful not to keep any of your tools against a spindle to match. These milling a wall. Take a convenient length (say cutters, which are put on a spindle or 5 feet) of f-inch board at the back of mandrel running between centres, ought this, aud across ite width, nail three to be treated in the same way. Others strips of A-inch wood, one at each end, could have a short piece, like a chucking and one in the centre. Now nail the piece, attached to each, by which it board to the wall above your bench the could be held in a drill chuck or self- strips at back will keep it off the
The
best plan
centring chuck.
I intend to describe a
brickwork.
On
know
but
if
you
will
write to
me
make a rack
from
them.
rusting, if
for
tools.
Boiled
through the Editor (with take twist drills of various wishes. his permission) enclosing a stamp, in Thanks for your kind order that the letter may be forwarded DwYER.
personally,
to me, I will,
if
J. L.
allowed to dry on
is
The
following mixture
:
also
good for the purpose -Dissolve ounce Leaded Letters in Stone. two, make further inquiries respecting No Name. I do not know of any of camphor in 1 pound of hog's lard, both wholesale and retail houses, and way of making lead letters show up on take off the scum, and mix as much send results, if any, to you privately. a tombstone they are generally used in black-lead as will give the mixture an Tou must understand that bedroom stones of a character that shows them iron colour. suite makers turn out their goods minus up, such as white marble, I certainly Model Boat- building with Planking. tiles and marbles, which latter are should not attempt to whiten the stone Ernest Attwood. This article apSeveral firms, I would rather paint the letters. As a fitted by the dealer. peared in Part New Series, page
23,
matter of
fact,
lead
letters
never
it
do
494.
completely finished
cases out of one
dealers,
but in ninety-nine
their
articles
I take
is
the only
because they
and obtain
L. L.
Your
question
is
somewhat
above stated.
tops,
In reference to marble
you might write to Messrs. F. M. Benjamin and Co., 119, Old Street, London E. C. There used to be a mason
(his
name
has slipped
my memory)
and the moistened E.C. This address, adding "marble picture laid thereon and pressed closely mason," will be sufficient if he is still board, I should make the back part down by means of a piece of filtering there. Messrs. Godwin and Son, into a small swell organ, placing over paper. When dry the picture is reLugwardine Works, Withington, near the sliders a salcional 8 feet, and moved, and will be found to possess a Hereford (tiles) Messrs. Mintons, dulcet principal 4 feet. The front surface of great brilliancy, which is not Limited, Walbrook, London, E.C, and three I should convert into a great injured by the process of mounting.
over
the
plate,
;
turn out a lot of marble tops from Hewitt Street, Curtain Road, London,
Organ Building. A. G. Haywaed (Burg St. Edmunds). It would be impossible to say what is the name of the stop you have made unless you say the size of the largest stopped pipe and the diameter of the If I had the soundlargest open pipe.
you propose to varnish. If a map, the following! from " Workshop Eeceipts," might suit
print, engraving, or
you.
(1.)
piece
of
plate
glass
little
is
warm
is
wax
rubbed over
it;
water
then poured
Stoke-on-Trent
(tiles).
Tou
should also
feet,
(2.)
clear white
J. S.
for Simple Milling Attach ment to Lathe.
Castings
or two coats of gelatine. and changing the places of Cyclostyle Ink. principal. the flute and to, but I believe they were supplied by P. B. replies to Gulielmus " DisThe scales at 4 feet c would be open Mr. Gladstone, Engineer, Stafford. If diapason 2} inches, gedact (wood) 1J solve an ounce of sugar-candy in a pint Mr. Taylor is unable to obtain them, I by 2 inches, salcional 2J, dulciana 2 and a-half of good black ink. Or this should recommend him to advertise for inches, dulcet principal 2^ inches, Dissolve half an ounce of gum arabic and twenty grains of Spanish liquorice a 5-incb slide rest, as I have often seen stopped flute (wood) If by 1 J inches. them offered for 10s. and 12s. each. I shall be glad to answer any further in thirteen drachms of water ; add to Only the top slide is required. queries that you may send. Organ this one drachm of lampblack, witli a
Robert Tatlor.
each 6 ounces oil of turpenIn the event of the swell box being a tine, 1 quart dissolve. The map or a choir organ of the engraving must previously receive one drawback, make back, by substituting a dulciana for the
resin, of
gedact 8
feet,
and stopped
flute
feet.
It
is
some
time
salcional,
F. J. G.
Builder.
teaspoonful of sherry.
VOL.
III.
(N.S.)
154
Calico Diagrams.
AMATEURS IN
In
were
they
COUNCIL.
A Hint to Contributors. W. H. H. (Ruthin) writes : " Might
wood-carving
of
nil.
E. P. C. (Muswelt Hill).
I saw some
which
;
chances
remunerative
testify
In the case of china I suggest that it would be a very great you have high artistic help if writers would give the sizes of were all fixed to a roller, at the lower ability, and a technical knowledge of the pieces of wood to be ordered so as end, and in each upper corner brass the art, you would stand a remote to cut up economically, and to enable rings were fixed, and hung on nails or chance of inducing some of the leading it to be stored to dry a short time hooks as each was finished with, the firms, such as Mintons, Doultons, before commencing work. For instance, rings were lifted off, and the diagram Minton Hollins, etc., to take up your on page 72, Vol. II. (New Series), fell down, leaving the next one ready. work by sending specimens but such occurs a list of sizes required (40 feet I think it was Indian or Chinese silk. specimens would have to be of un- by 8 by 3. Suppose the timber merchant, You will require a medium to prevent doubted ability, and such as to com- sent four of 10 feet, and one or two of the colours from running, and I should mand attention. You no doubt know 12 feet were required, how awkward !) think artist's colours in tubes would be that these firms employ highly paid but not of lengths, only the total best. If you write to Winsor and artists upon their own premises. lengths of each size. The same occurs Newton, or Rowney and Sons, they on page 10, Vol. II. It would be a Safety Crutch. will supply you with medium and very great help to ignoramuses like P. M. McKie writes In reply to colours for silk, or perhaps for calico. myself if information were given early "Crutch" (Glasgow), "I too for some Electron. in aD article as to how many and what years was obliged to use crutches, and lengths, widths, thicknesses, etc., are Make your own Magic Lantern! An I used leather shoes at the bottom of Amateur's Testimony. to be used, and what wood, whether each crutch, one set with spikes for Experienced Amateur writes: yellow pine, red deal, pitchpine, oak, I hope " As an amateur I should much like to winter use, and one without. etc., or whether it may be in iron, brass, the above will meet the wishes of
at
diagrams
lecture
almost
painted on
silk,
and very
flexible
painting,
if
to
the
practicability
of
the
'
heading in tbe December issue, "to make a .50 lantern for 5." Though only an amateur possessing an ordinary
(uot slide) lathe, I have constructed a
Crutch
' ;
it
is
much
etc,
In the
article
last
referred to,
less
expensive
lengths of walnut,
etc.,
required to cut
given,
up into
Crutc.'i
the
lengths
I
without
the
limelight
lantern,
lined,
bi-unial
4-inch
interior,
condenser metal
brass
solid
;
great
forgive
waste.
sincerely trust
of
mahogany
body,
dead black
fronts,
me
but I
draw out
and stages japanned metal top, chimney, and cowl. I have also made a brass dissolver. and at the
outset constructed pressu-e boards for
feel sure
that I
am
object they
had
in
by calling attention
to
my
Spike
to
this
stumbling-block
;
ignorant
twill gas
bag
however, sold at a
handsome
profit,
use,
by preference, the
{Glasgow).
compressed gas direct from steel cylinThis is mentioned in the hope ders. that it may be some encouragement to other amateur manufacturers to try this fascinating work, and to read, like
myself, with great interest the papers
if
you
amateurs like myself however, they are by no means the only writers who omit this helpful information." [I commend your suggestion to the
attention of
my
Manchester.
The information you ask for is ful " to the more advanced as
beginners, because
many
readers
who
Indiarubber Stoppers.
G. I. Simply get a piece of thick raw or unvulcanised rubber, and carve
out the stopper with a sharp knife to
fit
are good
workmen
find a difficulty in
now appearing on
the subject."
Ed.]
Finding Employment.
Lithographic Press.
"
'
Miss Howard. Your question," How The game is scarcely worth the bottle. to find employment in artistic home tbe candle, since ground-glass stoppers work 1 " is one that is constantly asked, are infinitely superior for bottleB to but to which no reply, satisfactory to
hold acids.
the querist, can ever be given.
first place,
Broncuy"
'
asks:
" Would
'
any of
for
ours
'
working
drawings
of a press
In tbe
G. E.
'litho work,' to be
made
all
of iron,
I
do
carving, fretwork, or
china painting,"
this, in a great measure, depends your chance of success. Apart from this, it is purely a matter of supply and demand, in which the former exceeds the latter to an appalling extent. Bottone (4th
:
and upon
Books on Electricity. Amber. To come within the price you name, I should recommend the following For theory, Magnetism and Electricity," by F. Guthrie, 3s. 6d. For construction, " Electrical Instrument Making for Amateurs," by S. K.
my spare
time;
'
'
and I should like a press large enough to print from 12 x 10 negatives, and under. I have never seen a press at all, so I do not know how they are constructed." [If some practical man will write a short paper on this subject,
I will insert
it.
edition), 3s.
Ed.]
AMATEURS IN
Ice Machines. Police " {India) writes " I have been a subscriber to Amateur Work from its commencement, and am indebted entirely to this magazine for what knowledge I have of carpentry, wood and metal turning, etc., having had no professional assistance or instruction. I consider the Volumes of Amateur p.k to be worth their weight in gold.
"
:
COUNCIL.
one
is
it
155
to have a small lathe a similar manner, and could I set about to make it ? I am
the
rivet.
Bemember,
over severe
possible
blow of the
hammer
may arranged
or
in
fan or bracelet.
rigidity of rivet
is
Where
stiffness
only a draper's
'
scudge,' therefore
I
you
desirable, select
am
;
placed, so
far as funds are concerned so I trust head and point, leaving the rivet part you will show me what I can do with I parallel soften in a gas jet thoroughly, it, and in the most economical way. and hammer up a small head. Neat trust you will endeavour to make the work should be slightly countersunk instructions as clear as you can, as I Of all subjects treated, that with to receive the head or burr of the am very tuick-headed in understanding. reference to ice machines, a necessity rivet, subsequently filed smooth. I am taking the Technical Dictionary in this country, has not been mooted. ExPERIENXED AMATEUR. to> help me; it is just the thing I I shall feel greatly indebted if some wanted, and I feel sure many of the Battery Wanted. reader could give me particulars as to readers of A. W.' would do well to E. Attwood writes Could anyone the making of an ice machine, and how take it." advise me, through the columns of to charge the same with ammonia. Such Pin Puzzle Box. Amateur Work, how to make a battery information would be of great value writes " Allow me Wippell H. J. (very small but powerful) to work a and assistance to us Europeans out small electric motor, to turn the screw- to thank Retep,' through your columns, in the districts away from the chief a propeller of a 3-feet model yacht. The for his reply to my query relating to towns. There must be many readers of appeared in the battery must be powerful, compact, pin puzzle box, which Amateur Wore in this country who I drst part of the present volume. would be greatly indebted to you for Pten of deck have with his kind assistance just any such information." completed a very pretty pin trick [If someone who understands the match box, the material used in its construction of ice machines will manufacture being brass, and which undertake this, I shall have much resembles in shape a magic pocket
'
'
'
'
'
Ed.]
lamp.
have
just
it
sent
nickel-plated, to give
it to be a more finished
Betep.
short
appearance.
Srrtion
Electron.
E.
You might
try them.
The sketches alone elucidated the mechanism of the box so clearly that before reading the text I knew exactly how the box was constructed
;
but he described
it
so palpably,
that
Kivetting
W.
(Richmond)
Any
small
End
but
view.
'
see
'
how
has
it
was
manufactured.
himself
'
Peter
proven
Peter
and very small, on account of the small wise' in this matter, and has conexercised, frs: in the choice of the amount of room in the yacht. I want tradicted the old adage, viz., Peter metal for the rivet, and secondly in the battery to stand in a shaft so that simple,' which after this should be " closing " or rivetting the head thereon. it could lift in or out, and the other considered defunct. Ordinary pins, with or without their
'
care must
be
parts of
the
boat (w w, see
sketch
heads, are
useful
for
brooch
is
hinge
head there
Criticism.
on the
be water-tight."
Utilising Sewing
the better
rivet
large
Machine Stand.
and point
To
is to
strike at a very
Correspondent writes: "I am very sorry that Mr. Scott has written so intemperate a reply, but I have nothing to add to my former wish to
see either of
if
inevitably bend
Let the
it
rivet
vice,
into the
Cut
off
too long, bending will take place short, there will be no " closing
if
too
second head)
made by the designers. had known that he had ever Singer's it is done for sewing, so far won the commendation of a relative of explorer, 1 might have as we are concerned. I would like, if I an Arctic could, to make it into a fret-sawing understood then that any design of his machine. I would also like to have a must be beyond criticism. I am quite small circular saw fixed to a board, that willing to admit, if it pleases him, that when not requiring fret-cutting, I could 48 out of the 50 articles designed lift it off and place the circular saw on by him are absolute perfection, but likewise to have some similar arrange- although, according to Mr. Scott, I do
sewing machine
;
It is like
possible
I
if
and with very gentle taps of the hammer ment for a pair of grindstones.
Also,
'
156
all,' yet I have one as to the two remaining articles of the 50. I am,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
it.
at
of the
W. H. Hughes. Your
request for a
however, sorry
'
Very few designers can wield a workman's tools.' Hurrah the cat jumps immerse the paper, pressing it down course. out of the bag. Pity 't is 't is true." with a glass rod cover the vessel with Magic Lantern. I Iilv in hand a a glass plate, and set it aside for 15 or paper on the construction of lime Rhomkorff Coil 20 minutes. Lift the paper out with a cylinders. H. A. O. (Finsbury Park). You glass rod, throw it into a bucket of will find instructions for making a The long promised F. Turner. water, and wash it thoroughly in a miniature Rhomkorff coil in Vol I. article on the construction of handstream of water till it no longer (New Series), Part 5, page 214. I cameras has now come to hand. It will reddens blue litmus paper. Dry it by have seen an excellent coil made from appear as soon as I can find space
;
!
with an equal volume of bookcase with sliding doors has been strong sulphuric acid in a small glass put into the hands of a practical man, vessel allow the mixture to cool and an article will appear in due
nitric
exposure to the
heat.
air,
or at a very gentle
these instructions.
Wood
article
Engraving.
writes
:
Amateur Engraver
in
In
my
is
R.
J.
Seccombe.
You
Colour.
Work,
engraver
did
not
quite
but apart from this, the articles sent in competition for the somewhat similar effect in colour was fretwork prize were judged on January devised by " Whistler " in the painting your work was not of a small room in London. The walls 1st; consequently
a decidedly startling innovation
;
The
suggestion you
rule, I
am bound
to
were first painted a pure black, which was afterwards overlaid with a coat of
semi-transparent yellow.
after
it is
it,
the
prize
was
The
result of
know
was appeared
this
that
solid
no longer hear that your bracket was damaged in material, but resembled
the
walls
this respect.
I very
much
regret
to
The accompaning block will better show how the tint tools Bbould be graded,
giving lines of eight different widths.
fog, giving a suggestion of space beyond. The small room was still small, but did not look so.
a dense
transit.
A Reader
for
of
"
A.
W." Thanks
which
shall
your
suggestions,
have
Bicycle Cement.
my
J.
serious consideration.
fuller
I will
I have a paper in meet your requirements, The addition of shellac gutta percha. For darkening wood, in the proportion of about one of but there is so much pressure on my Amateur. space that I cannot give any definite particularly in matching shades, bishellac to two of the above cement, will time for its appearance. chromate of potash is a convenient and increase its hardness.
Amateur Engraver.
Staining
Wood
to
Match a Pattern.
Professor
give
you a
W.
Childs.
will
hand that
efficient
agent.
It
can
be
used
all
in
J.
D. Kilby.
Your
requirements
different
degrees of
strength,
of
which may be prepared from a mother G. A. Savage. Your photos were liquid of a strength of one ounce to a unfortunately received too late for points to which you refer. pint of water. This may be diluted by competition. Several competitors, both The reflecting J. W. Partridge. the addition of an equal or double in photography and fretwork, were telescope, its construction and manuquantity of water to the tint desired. disqualified for the same reason.
are being attended to. An article is being written dealing with the special
Raw
linseed
oil,
wood dust (red oil) is used to darken mahogany and rosewood. The oil is
prepared by pouring the dust, which yields some of
the
oil.
R. Homes.
tions,
Vols. V.
sugges-
Series) of
Amateur Work.
which
oil
its
over the
colour to
Fred Fenwick.
You
in
will
Lightning Paper.
E.
L.
(Bermondseij)
Spon
of
information you require in Work, Vol. VI. (Old Series), page 155.
gives
this
I do not think you will any place of the kind. When find the amateurs desire to sell their work they Amateur have to compete in the open market
find
the following
paper
nitre
" Dry
a
method of making
1,000 grains
An
Amateur
Difficulties.
pure
at
" Exercises in Woodworking," pubLETTERS RECEIVED UP TO. JAN. 12. Caxton by measure, of strong sulphuric acid, lished by W. Allen and Co., and distil until 6 drachms of nitric acid House, Paternoster Square, E.C., and until H. A. L. Carnota A. C. Toker have passed over into the receiver. work at ExerciseB 5, 6, and 19 P. Bennett; E. N. T. Morton; would put this at days A few perfect. as paper, such Dry some thin unsized A New Reader Cuaklie. Griffith filter paper, and weigh out 60 grains of you right.
in a dry retort,
; ; ; ; ;
Practice alone will give you proficiency. should recommend you to get I
with professional mechanics. I know several amateurs who are doing this and earning a moderate income.
28
(NEW
SERIES),
MARCH,
1891-
By Photography.
By RAR. Bennett B.A.Presidentof the Photographic
The Oxford Natural History
Society.
Section oP
FIC-19. Hanging Basket Fofflewtrs. China plaques in pawned iron frame S orna/ntned with transHrs.
no.
\Z. Candle
braelertormmented ivth
portraits tmimrincerrtrt
el-,
f\^.\Z,M;iidneCupbo3rd.fantls
fig. 20
Ornamenud
WavD I <%**
FEW
IDEAS IN WOODWORK.
vice, instead of
157
having
it
in a'horizontal position.
LVKIN.
I can see better and work better thus. But I do not profess to great skill in fret-sawing, of
E^^ET-HE
last
volume of
Amateur Work
good deal of ingenuity in the matter amateur handicraft. There are, however, a few modes and methods of using wood in ornamental devices of which little notice has been Not very long ago I made the hitherto taken. I have represented here and which bracket wall an effect, simple as it is, that charming so has it
of
;
which so many abler and more practised amateurs have written in these pages. The bracket is 18 inches long, and the back 7 inches high to the top point. The shape is as sketched and as it looks exceedingly well, it may be reproduced as it is, or altered as individual
;
fancy
may
suggest.
would recommend
is to
is
I have many a time considered the expediency of sending it to Amateur Work, of which I
it
and
to the shelf.
as
soon as
it
made
of
do without this, and my own was made but simply because the wood of it, which it was made was too small to permit of The great boon being differently arranged.
It will
without
be desired but my own was of 3-ply wood, such as can now be bought at any shop where
;
conferred
by 3-ply wood
it
is
which way
is
cut
it
fretwork material
is
sold
Zilles' for
example.
The main bracket can be cut out with a fretsaw, but I hardly know why it is that I never
have done much with this tool, and I find a finely-toothed sharp keyhole saw one of the most
serviceable of
all
In
this there is
no grain, for
it lies
in three directions
means
of the back,
mark
out
forms
evidently
work and complicated designs. As a rule, moreover, I like to fix the work in an upright
may
carefully a parallelogram about \\ inches wide, extending the greater part of the length of the
it
it
up,
necessary, sharp
Vol. III.
(New
Series).Part 28.
158
A
cat out the shelf
;
Next
that
and
note here
pillaret, or cut
work to cut out all the parts at once first of all, and not to cut out one or two, and then begin to put them together before getting out the rest. The shelf is about
it is
all
a notch in a bit of tin plate as a gauge, and another small notch the size of the
ends,
stock.
which should
be
drill
in
6 inches
wide in
my own bracket,
its
It is
Always consider what sized hole you are capable of making before you commence, as it For will save a multitude of woes afterwards. such small work a 3 -jaw drill chuck is very
handy, as it holds such bits of wood securely, and they can be mounted in half a minute to run true. The prong is no use for box and hard wood. The cross prong will do if saw cuts are made and the end of the stuff is quite squarely
sawn, or a square hole chuck of box with a hole It is 1 inch square, slightly tapering inwards.
the wall.
The perforated oblong in the back is cut to receive a row of ebony pillarets, which must all
be exactly
in a lathe
;
alike,
and must,
of course,
be turned
a very small one being sufficient for such work as the present. They are best made of black wood or ebony, but stained box is nearly as good.
all
and
it is
Three
The mouldings should be cut clean with a sharp gouge, and sandpaper avoided, as it rubs off sharp angles. The pillarets will stand about
\ inch apart, or somewhat less. Around these is a neat bead, and it has a twofold object it adds greatly to the appearance, being blackened to
:
with different sized holes, will suffice Gauge the size for an immense deal of work. of the middle with callipers or the bit of
draw a pencil line in the centre, and two others at equal distances on each side
notched tin
(for
;
this
particular pattern)
match the
pillarets
and
in addition to this
it
and bottom strip first of all, and then the whole is glued into place. In eases
it is
on the summit, i.e., just barely visible, and run down with a nice curve to the ends (see Fig. 4). Having made one very carefully, it
visible
serves
as
guide to
all
the rest.
Hold
it
of this kind
also
an excellent plan
;
to give
i.e.,
is
let
size,
and with a
fine
box
no
is
(if it is
go
any depth,
a, b, c, as
mark
Let me give here a few hints about turning such pillarets, of which I made eighty only a few days since, which is not exactly a labour of love to an impatient man. Prepare the pieces, all of them, at the commencement with saw and chisel as nearly to size as possible. I prefer to turn them singly, but if turned in pairs a double length, with something to spare for the chuck, must be provided. Set open a pair of compasses (spring and screw are best, as they cannot alter the space at which they are set open) to the length required for a pillarot. Allow some little extra, as it can be
cut
off afterwards.
be experienced to anyone able to use a chisel and gouge, which are the only tools needed. I have purposely supposed a
difficulty will
it is
so
much more
number
difficult
to
of pillarets in
which there
a a preva-
lence of convex
difference of
if
form
When the touching each other, any very painfully visible; and
it
one
is of
larger size,
of course reduces
two
I
entire
row appear
and one
to
be
carelessly
out.
gauges instead of
callipers,
like Fig. 5 will give all the measurements required, and cannot get altered if it happens to fall off the lathe-bed. Compasses and callipers often get wider open by being
A
repeatedly used.
largely in
FEW
IDEAS IN WOODWORK.
picture frame
159
to
wood, with nail points set in for marking, so as have on one single tool ail the several measure-
merely a bead and hollow, half an inch wide. Although this bracket was at first left of plain
its
present
ments required. "We may now go on to speak of the vandyked borders below the shelf. This, too, is black, but is of the same three-ply sycamore or other wood, which is afterwards ebonized. All this is centre-bit work and so effectively can work be thus done, that it is a wonder no one seems to have elaborated it, as it is easily done, and takes but little time, and with three-ply wood there is no risk of splitting out the inter;
stitial parts.
with bronze paint, probably of Aspinall's manufacture and if not improved thereby, it certainly has a very satisfactory appearance. In fixing it by simple suspension, I found the shelf inclined to sag down a little, and I supplemented it by a bronze fretted support, underneath, of cast metal. This has a neat look about it but it would, as I stated, be better, even if such addition is to be used, to carry down the back-board below the
to
cover
it
The
shelf,
so
as
to
allow a
support of similar
rectilinear sides
but these
may be
scalloped
by
the same
produce an outline of almost any shape that can be produced by curved lines which form segments of circles. The centre-bits should decrease in size as the extremities of the
tools, to
In my next, I it. have another arrangement to describe, needing some additional plain hand turning. With regard to the ornamentation of such work by the centre-bit, I may mention a very
character to be attached to
shall
approached. As an and let the sides of the triangles be set off to measure two inches on either side (the third side is of no account except as a means of admeasurement) then divide the two sides into 8, or 10, or 12 equal parts, and with centres thus joined, and
triangular
points
are
6,
excellent
substitute,
or variety,
of this
tool,
Melhuish,
of
me
hollow cylinder at the cutting end, with a bit something like that of a nose-bit or auger. It
cuts
cut
out
adjacent
bottom,
so as just to
meet.
point whatever.
shows the part left to form such a vandyke. The centre of No. 4 is simply further off than that of No. 1 and thus adds variety to the outline.
,
being no screw or projecting I never met with so perfect and simple a tool for recessed and stepped If, for instance, two circles are drawn work.
concentrically, half
It is pleasant
such devices, The edge of the back part is carefully ebonized, to form a clean black margin, sharply defined, about \ inch wide, following the contour of this
part. The hole intended to facilitate hanging the bracket on a brass-headed nail, has a similar black border. The two front angles, at which
the vandyke curtain meets the side pieces, are ornamented with a turned pillaret, squared at the base, and rather longer than the Vandykes.
The whole
of this part is glued to little blocks, placed at the back as a support, and which are also, themselves, glued to the shelf. On the top of the latter,
.
an inch apart, one of these recess the space between them by simply overlapping the cuts, and will produce a circular groove with a perfectly flat bottom, almost equal to turned work. For pattern makers, carvers, and, I should think, engravers, it will be of great value and to the amateur turner, especially, I commend it for hollowing out boxes, which it does rapidly and well. Being a tube, it does not run out of cut. They cost from Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each, according to size, and are beautifully made, with square shanks to fit an ordinary brace.
half-inch bits will
;
Very
slight pressure is
needed
to
make them
No
makes a neat
I know,
leaves a level
which
it
forms.
wood
to receive
160
HOW
TO
IT.
THE MAGIC LANTERN HOW TO MAKE AND USE IT. "WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOE
MAKING A
By W.
A.
whole
1
distance piece between the lenses of ^ inch the is then mounted into a tube, so as to get
;
50
OUTFIT FOR
5.
ALLEN,
Light Apparatus.
IV.
The Lenses
fit
S I said in my last, an amateur photographer having a portrait lens, may use that for a single lens lantern, but as a really first-class lantern should have at
least three sets
between the inside of the lenses. fronts (Figs. 23 and 24) you will see consist of four tubes, one inside the other, and about 3 inches long. First get a piece of tube about an inch wide, to fit the lens tube exactly, so as to hold it tight, but yet allow it to slide in and out to make it somewhat of a spring, cut it with a fretsaw, like Fig. 24 e. Get another tube J inch larger in diameter and 3J inches long, connect the two together with a ring made of square brass wire or, better still, a casting, which can have an ornamental edge to make
1 inches
The rack
of
focussing
front
lenses, to
show the same size picture at, say, 20, 30, and 40 feet away from the sheet, and as our lantern is to be a first-class one, we shall have to see what Messrs. Chadburn Brothers, can be done.
Nursery
lenses,
tube
cut
rack.
is
in
To the inside of this secured the rack, and a long slot is allow the pinion to reach the it to
to
fit
outside
the rack tube, about 2 inches wide, and with another very thick tube, 1J inches wide, soldered
three or any
number
on one end
this,
the
last,
unmounted, at
per
set,
and front
as
focussing lenses of
4, 6,
and
per
set, of really
splendid quality
is
and
we
head.
how we
shall
to
to
make them
much.
fit.
mount the lenses, beginning with the condensers. First get a piece of brass tube, rather thick, and
a
little
The
light
The
pinion
made
of
not so
them to go inside. and cut off six pieces one inch wide, and join them in pairs by chasing a very fine thread on the inside of one and on Then on the outside the outside of the other. ends cut a groove to take the lenses, and burnish in, something like a glass in a watch, but the convex side of the lens must be inside. The screwed centre is to allow the inside to be cleaned (see Figs. 20 and 21).
much
as
to allow
in the lathe,
having a guide on
the
The rack can be made with a saw it that is, if you have not
;
means
to cut
it
The Burners.
The
first
the more
to
In
fact
it
would be as well
;
so
we
will
The
little
fitting of the
Make a
inch
little
box,
up the
front lenses.
each way
Each
which must be secured into a tube, so that we can draw out the lenses and insert another set But as we without unscrewing anything.
cannot secure them like the condensers,
like Fig. 22,
little
Make
piece of inch brass tube, screwed at both ends to take inch brass elbows, and with a division
in the centre, drill little holes in the tube close
to the centre (see Fig. 26).
which
will
be seen has a
little
HOW
TO
IT.
161
FIC. 28.
FIGS. 20
AND 21. CONDENSERS A, A. A, PLAIN CONVEX LENSES, 4-INCH DIAMETER, 4-INCH FOCUS B, B, B, BRASS TUBE SCREWED JOINT. FIG. 22. LENS TUBE A, A, A, A, LENSES B, B, B, B, CASTINGS TO CARRY LENSES C, C, TUBE TO SECURE LENSES IN CASTING D, TUBE TO CONNECT AND CARRY THE WHOLE E, DISTANCE PIECE BETWEEN LENSES. FIG. 23. FRONT LENS MOUNTED. FIG. 24. FOCUSSING TUBES IN SECTION A, RACK B, PINION D, SLIDING TUBE E, TUBE TO CARRY LENS TUBE F, CHASED THREAD TO SCREW INTO SLIDING TUBES OF LANTERN FRONT. FIG. 25. BOX TO TAKE NIPPLE. FIGS. 28 FIG. 26. HIGH PRESSURE BURNER. FIG. 27. LOW PRESSURE BURNER. AND 29. LIME HOLDER. FIG. 30. FRAME FOR SECURING LIME HOLDER TO LANTERN. FIG. 31. SHOWING ARRANGEMENT OF COCKS FOR MIXING GASES.
;
C, C, C,
lias
my
patterns,
trifle.
The
the front, to inch at the back (see a, Fig. 26). It mil now be seen that if the two gases enter
made
it
should
from the two sides at the same time, and under the same pressure, they will issue out of the little holes into the chamber, mix together, and
162
ascend through the burner and on to the lime. Of course, it is very important that the two gases should be at the same pressure, or they will not mis properly and if the hydrogen is the lightest, the oxygen might drive the flame back through the tube, and cause an explosion. In the low pressure the gases are not allowed to
;
metal
j?8
rails.
Procure a
by
Is.
iV inch
drawn
for
brass wire
shop,
it.
in
straight
lengths,
at
a metal
lb. all
per
to
make
the
mix
is
inch brass tube for the common gas, b is a smaller tube brazed or screwed into it with a nipple in the end, as before this burner is absolutely safe in the most careless hands.
;
is
solder
and make these quite true, bends and twists. It is quite possible to lay parts of the line in long lengths from end to end, but it will be much easier to make them true in short pieces. Out of the same material next cut the "sleepers," as they are called, that is to say, representations of the heavy
18 inches in length,
all
taking out
brass across
creosoted blocks of
wood which
\\ inches wide, cut a slot in it, and fit a steel screw 3 inches long, inch diameter, with two
nuts, one each side of plate to secure it, and a tapped eight square plate to run up and down, to hold the lime (see Figs. 28 and 29).
the gravel bed, and on to which the rails are fixed by means of " chairs." The latter we will
neither describe nor
make use
of,
because
(or, in
it is
the case
out of inch brass tube, a frame like Fig. 30, with brass flanges, to secure it to the
inside of lantern, against the
Make
woodwork.
The
tubes must be stopped so that the one gas goes to the right side, and the other gas to the left then screw in and sweat with solder the three
sets of cocks (see Fig. 31), for adjusting the
of wood rails, to glue) the lines on to the sleepers. Real sleepers extend on either side of the rails, as in sectional drawing (Fig. 4.), which also shows the chairs above mentioned with the rails wedged in by means of hard wood wedges but
;
we
all
shall find
it
more convenient
to place our
be flattened and accurately cut to the same length, so that they will keep the two rails apart This distance is decided at a proper distance.
(PEEMANENT WAY.)
By
II.
W. E.
J.
OAWTBORP.
Material for Rails How to Lay the Rails and Sleepers Points and Shunts.
wheels upon the lines, so that it will be seen that the required length of sleeper will be equal to the distance between the extreme edges of the flanges, as a-b. Drill two holes in each
sleeper near the centre, in order to fasten
to the board.
down
make
the
brass,
but they
Before cutting up a
lot of metal,
we
advise
may
of J-inch
be
made
of
In the latter case, a piece hard wood, planed both sides, must be cut up into strips about wide, by means of a sharp penknife, and a metal straightedge securely clamped down then these strips must be carefully planed up smooth, and of equal size.
fear to tackle metal.
;
the amateur to cut two or three, and temporarily fix up two pieces of the rail described above, and
then see that his wheels will run freely on this, without either binding, so as to cause unnecessary friction, or fitting so loosely as to allow of either of these faults play between the lines
;
running powers of
difficult
Then
if
the instructions
for metal
lines
be
the vehicles.
part,
heads for additional security, a set of rails nearly as good as the metal ones may be produced.
namely, the shunts, it will be well to make up all the straight lengths that will be required. A simple way of soldering up these lengths of rail
163
shown
in section in Fig. 6.
and having a true upright edge against edge lay one of the straight pieces of brass, narrow way upwards (b), then lay three sleepers (g) on the broad side at right angles to b, one at each side and one in the middle. The two end ones should be about J inch from the ends of the rails (see also Fig. 7). Having
long,
;
very gradual from end to end, gracefully falling into the straight without any sharp bends or lumps, and preserving throughout the most
accurate
fit
this
to the
gauge
of the wheels.
if
The
pointed iron
(d), solder
put the other three ends against that, and solder up as before. The whole piece, if correctly done, will now be as Fig. 7. These pieces have only to be nailed clown to the board, carefully fitted end to end without any gaps, and we have a considerable portion of the
Figs.
8, 9,
and 10
manner in which all shunts or points are made and if once mastered, any number of points, even including two points uniting at one spot, may be made on precisely the same principle. He who is using wood for
rails will be saved much trouble in the matter of the sleepers, as he may glue or pin his rails down at all or any places; but he who uses
plan is drawn upon the wood, drawing hard and fast lines between which the wheels will run, and over which nothing must be allowed to project. Next make the two pieces like Fig. 10, a h being quite straight, and G k following the curve of the point. The join at g must be well and sharply finished off, the top being quite flat and smooth. Fit and fix these in their places then make the two pieces like Fig. 9, noticing that the ends at m are not united, and that the ends (m, p) are united by a piece (below the level), which is short enough to keep one line clear inside the flange of a wheel, while the other wheel rests upon the It will be other line in the ordinary way. plainly seen in Fig. 8, that while one wheel is running over the straight piece, m p, there must
correct
work and
will
be
facilitated
very careful
especially
be
sufficient space
line,
part,
m n,
and the
without striking.
The
ends,
his
turned aside as to form a guard to keep the wheel in its proper place when crossing the
space between the lines, and the extremities are turned off a little more, so as not to offer a sharp
metal, will have to exercise his discretion in fixing sleepers in convenient places, so as to firmly solder down all small pieces of rail,
diamond points, etc. In this case the sleepers shoidd not be between the rails, but underneath them, and it may perhaps be found easier to lay
beneath the lines a plate of metal extending far enough each way to receive all the parts to be
soldered, in place of three or four sleepers. To avoid unevenness, the sleepers or plates under the rails must be let into the wood board.
end which might catch the flange. These parts be more difficult to make in wood than in brass, but the same method must be adopted, firmly pinning down the curves and short pieces. Now put Fig. 9 in its place, only fastening down
will
sufficient
wooden rails, to the ground), allowing only room in each of the spaces to clear the
running edges of
may be
Fig. 9
sleeper,
Notice,
first,
b, c,
d)
is
may
also
fix
so as to
fixed to their
loose, so that
be able to gauge the other lines from them. This remark applies to wood rails all over the course, but only to metal rails in the parts where curves and shunts are concerned, if the plan been adopted.
suggested for making up the straight pieces has The curve of the points must be
own short sleeper, must be left they may be pressed against either
For
is
safety,
a small, straight
away
and
f,
Fig.
8),
164
left
line,
p.
binding.
Now
will
be more readily seen the In this manner the laid with any number
it
will serve to
keep the
thick.
may be
same level as the fixed rails, and one long end must come out at one side of Here the the permanent way, as at R, r.
FIG.
7.
p-T-
FIG. 4.
FIG. 5.
POSITION OF
FIG.
CORRECT 6. SIMPLE
METHOD OF SOLDERING UP LENGTHS OF RAIL. FIG. 7. LENGTH OF RAILS ATTACHED TO SLEEPERS. FIGS. 9, IO. ILLUSTRATING THE MANNER IN WHICH ALL
SHUNTS OR POINTS ARE MADE.
of
FIG.
II. QUADRANT.
ends of the points must not be left loose they must be connected with the levers, supposed to
be in the signal box. To do so, cut away some of the wood, say J inch deep, under the lines at the ends, n, b, extending on each side, so as to be able to pass under the lines a piece of wire (or wood), which must be attached beneath
own ingenuity, and extend an elaborate system of levers and connecting rods, or he may be content to leave the two pieces, r, r, projecting in such a manner that he may work them with his fingers without
builder
may
use his
his
work
into
165
how
to
-then
pass on.
An
elastic
ring or a piece of
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
By
Society
watch spring should be attached to the pieces, b, R (Fig. 8), in such a manner as to keep the
piece, p, pressed against the straight rail.
let
R. A. R.
BENNETT,
of
the
B.A.,
President
of
the
Photographic
;
Section
Sec.
Oxford
Natural
History
etc.
Hon.
Here
(For
III.
observe that the ends (p) should be gradually thinned away to nothing, and, also,
me
Hall
just at the extreme end, should be sunk a shade lower than the straight rail, in order to prevent
Lantern Candle Bracket Medicine Cupboard China Cheese-stand Flower Bowl Method of Mounting Transparencies Hand Screens Fire Screens Hanging Basket
Jardiniere.
The two springs be so placed as to act in opposite directions, one pushing and the other pulling. By means of them the two straight roads will be kept open until the shunt is pulled, so as to open the curved road then it is clear that the two ends of a shunt must be so adjusted as to work exactly at the same moment. The simplest way to accomplish this is to use the same method that the bell-hanger adopts to get his wires round corners. Make a few quadrants, like Fig 11, to work on a pivot (such as a nail or screw) in the angle, and place two of these as at q (Fig. 8), attaching one end to n by means of a pin or pivot fixed to e, and passed through a hole at the end of the quadrant, and the other end to the wire to the lever, the direction of which is indicated by an arrow. By placing these quadrants in opposite positions they will act in
the flange striking the point.
will
;
SP5JN the last chapter I referred to a former article on making a hall lamp which could be ornamented by transparencies instead of the usual coloured glass. For the
benefit of those
who have
here describe a simple method of making a lamp specially for our purpose. The proI
may
of
course, any dimensions can be used by altering the size of the sides, keeping the proportion of
thin
as
wood
cut
walnut
to
or
these are as
little
and
them
form
6-J-
by
and the other pushing open the other shunt every care must be taken to adjust these so as to work accurately together. It is a convenience to run all the connecting
board to one end, be fixed, or the ends of the wires merely turned up and placed in a row of grooves, so as to be easily pulled by the fingers, thus working the whole apparatus from one spot.
side of the
wires
down the
In the centre of each cut a hole for a transparency, about 6j by 4J inches, fastening small slips of wood round three sides inside the lamp, with grooves into which the glass can be afterwards slipped from the top. It is preferable to have room for two glasses, one to protect the film of the transparency. You can get the right size by inserting two old negative glasses in the grooves while you are constructing
the holder.
where a row
of levers can
more
secure,
at each corner
rollers of
you should have four pillars, one these are made by cutting four wood the right length, and cutting
;
The more advanced and ingenious worker may build signal boxes or cabins nsar to the points,
and put the levers alongside, together with the signal levers; or stations may be built at
and the levers arranged in connection with them. These are minor details, which may well be left to the discretion of the model
intervals,
the then slip into this space, and the pillars can be fastened to them
builder
we
will,
with very small screws. To the bottom of the pillars are afterwards screwed small brass feet, The pillars must be for the sake of ornament. very firmly fixed to the sides, as the weight of the lantern rests mainly on them. To hoM the sides more firmly together at the top, and by
166
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
way
additional ornament, a
band
of
sheet
an inch wider than the height of the side above the transparency, can be bent round the framework, thus binding it together.
brass, about
work for the transparency, and mounting it on hinges fastened to one side in its proper place or simpler still, by simply pulling up the trans;
The top
of
this
sheet
brass
is
cut
in
any
;
ornamental manner that may suggest itself to the worker, and projects above the sides the ends of the band are, of course, soldered together.
parency in the groove, to allow the lamp to be placed in through its hole, and letting it down again when the lamp is inside. The general
appearance of the lantern
when
finished
is
Now
is
take four pieces of small brass rod, about 10 inches long, and bend them, so that when each fastened to the top of one of the pillars, they
all
shown
in Fig. 11,
its
which will
construction of
various parts.
subject of apparatus for
As I am now on the
will
made
lantern.
a ring attached
and
to it
soldered in as ornamental
be.
a manner as
the rosette
glass
bell,
is
may
From
the centre of
be above the lamp and so keep the heat from the roof and from the top
inserted to
which
give
light
in the lantern,
and ornamental adjunct to the drawing-room. Take a piece of thick mahogany or other ornamental wood a foot square, or any other size that may commend itself to you; draw lines to form another square inside it, the sides to be about \ inch from the side of the wood, which must then be bevelled off to look ornamental. Now recess a square into the centre, in which
of the lantern.
we can afterwards
square
;
knobs can be screwed to the ends of the rods, and screws put through these to the pillars, it will look handsomer. Up to this time we have made no provision for the support of the lamp. Perhaps it would be better to do this earlier in the proceeding
this is easily
edge
and round
this recess
In
together.
piece of
the eight small squares you can fix ordinary silver prints, bromide prints, opals, ivory films,
or whatever
may
Two
small
now
in this bottom
But you must cut four holes about 1 inch in circumference, equidistant from the centre, or enough air will not get into the lantern for the lamp to burn properly. Now the transparencies and cover-glasses have to be slipped in, and the lantern is
of the sides with small brads or screws.
elaborately as this.
complete.
in the
shadows, pieces of fine ground-glass should be used to spread the light over their
whole surfaces, which gives a much better effect. The transparencies must have their film sides outwards, or the pictures will be reversed, which is apt to puzzle a person who has been to the places portrayed right being left, and left right. I havo made no provision in this lantern for inserting the lamp when standing below the lantern, but it is easily done by making
;
syrup of rhubarb, or other necessary but unpleasant remedies. The cupboard can be " made into " a thing of beauty and joy for ever
oil,
transferotypes,
or other
processes.
mented
each
1
the bottom one forming the top of the cupboard. The sides are 1 foot 10 J inches from highest
167
The
width
its
5J-
inches for
8 inches. The wood is preferably oak, and should be well seasoned before use, so that the
doors will not warp and refuse to shut, which is an abominable nuisance. I speak from bitter experience The wood may be f inch thick throughout. The shelf forming the bottom of the cupboard is, of course, the same size as
!
hexagonal piece of wood, with sides 5| or 4Jin3h.es, will form the bottom. It must have holes cut in it if the sides are deep, but they will not be required for a night-light. You can now fasten six transparencies on the sides,
cutting a hole quarter-plate or half-plate size
Now we
;
come
to the
photo-
Spaces can be
by
6 inches,
by 4
inches, or one
At the
sides you can insert two quarter-plates on each, as shown at b and c in the Fiff., and, if the top of the cupboard is to be devoted to ornaments, you can put circular prints recessed
and fastening the transparencies on the inside by grooved slips of wood. Tou have, in fact, made a lantern which will stand on the table instead of hanging from the ceiling. Inside the lantern you can put a small paraffin lamp, and the result is a very pretty ornament. In the small size (quarter-plate) you can put an
in each side,
unsightly saucers
of
course, the
night-light
it
must be
in at
at
c,
a,
or omitting b,
in
and more
burns down and sets the wood on fire, it will be all up with your ornament, and perhaps with
can have transparencies fixed in holes cut right through the sides at a, and the corresponding
you
I
all
also
may
here
parenthetically
remark
gifts,
that
are
These will show quite well if the cupboard is placed near a window. "We now come to two china objects which can well be ornamented by means of transferoposition.
make most
acceptable
Christmas-boxes,
scenes
or
birthday
and
known
The china cheese stands sold in the shops can be rendered artistic by transferring
types.
pictures
round
of
the
upright
portion,
which
fire-places
The possessor of a house in which there are surrounded by Minton's tiles set in
These
tiles
should,
course,
be
of
plain
china
when
bought.
As
washed very
the transfers
washing
is easily got over they should have a coat or two of dammar varnish to protect them, and will then last for some time. Fig. 14 shows a cheese stand thus ornamented. The hexagonal china fern or flower bowls
can be replaced with painted on them, or the tiles can be used to receive transfers by the transferotype process, or the autotype processrative instincts.
opals,
with views,
etc.,
in the shops, having flat sides, lend themselves readily to ornamentation by transfers. The method hardly needs explanation, and Fig. 15 will show their appearance when
sold
finished;
latter, as it is capable of producing prints any shade, is a great acquisition. Materials and full instructions can be obtained from the Autotype Company, Brownlow Road, EaliDg The process is simplicity Dene, Middlesex. itself, as it is only necessary to print on the
This
in
but the same figure will serve to show the construction of another ornament, which is also very pleasing to look at. Six
prepared paper, transfer to the "final support," and wash with hot water till the picture appears.
wood can be cut to the shape of the shown in front in Fig. 15, the wood being about \ inch thick, walnut or oak preferably the sides from the top edge to the bottom of the
pieces of
side
There is only one " little rift within the lute,'' and that is that unless the process of " double transfer " is gone through, the prints are reversed,
as
with
transferotype
paper.
The
autotjpe process gives you a wonderful range of tone red chalk, engraving black, purple of
:
168
BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
I hope the too tidy a
two shades, standard brown, etc. and therefore you can make your tiles proportionally diverOf course the picture can be sified in colour.
painted, in addition,
if
Amateur Work
it
are
of
nature to render
desired.
The
tiles
should
have a coat or two of varnish to preserve them from injury, and render it possible to wash them slightly when dirty. Tiles used for other purposes, such as stands for teapots, or to ornament the back of washstands, etc., may, of course, be treated in the same way. In the first chapter I suggested that a window with an unpleasing look-out could be covered with transparencies to hide it. The lower panes of the windows of bedrooms, and of livingrooms also in towns, may be treated in this fashion as an agreeable and interesting alternative to the short blinds of
plush should be glued on to the frames in such a position that, when they are fastened together,
the joins
may be
inside,
therefore hidden.
this plan,
By
a slight modification of
we can mount four or more photos in one frame, so as to fill a window which has very large panes. Fig. 1 6 (b) shows the frame when
completed, the dotted line indicating the position
of the transparency
it.
wicker-work,
etc.,
which are commonly used. Another plan of mounting the photos has been suggested to me, and is worth noticing. Begin by fastening an extra
glass
Supposing that we have two of the we can cut out a central hole, and fill the vacancy thus made with a celluloid transparency, or a paper positive or printed in the same way
graphy.
ordinary hand screens sold in the shops,
;
(ground-glass
is
best)
to the transparency,
for the
This
is
METHOD
(Kg
16, a),
Fig. 17 shows two hand screens thus treated. FRAME The cardboard round the edge
them.
of the
size externally
first
frame,
Glue these three together, the frame in which were fixed the two glasses being in the middle, and insert two pieces of ribbon containing rings between the frames. Screw some small hooks into the frame of
the window, and on these suspend the transpar-
be illuminated any extent, which the skill The solid part of the operator will determine. of the screen may be fretwork, or of wood ornamented in that way round the edge in the former case leaving a plain rim about 1 inch broad, to which the transparency can be fixed. Now for the same idea on a larger scale. Fig. 1 8 shows a more substantially constructed screen, which is really an ornament to any drawingroom. The whole framework of this can be
can, of course,
to
;
POSI-
made
frame
of stout
not to warp
of
It
might be thought
would be needful to fix the transparencies also at the bottom, but I know of some which have been thus suspended for years, and they have neither broken the window nor been damaged themselves, though they have been
This is, of course, carved and ornamented ad lib., according to the taste of the maker. A wooden frame, with three stout legs, supports the screen, standing on the floor. A more elegant method of construction is that shown in the picture, where the inside frame
inch broad.
HO W TO MAKE A LE YDEN
consists of
JAR.
made
the exact size to
fit
169
ornamented wood,
fitting
into
an
result.
A tin box,
into
it.
forming the legs. "Weight in this case being of no account, the transparencies may be glass, with ground or plain glass to protect the films from the heat, and fastened in with bevelled
slips of
In Fig. 20 we have a
wickerwork, or
bamboo jardiniere, constructed exactly in the manner described, as far as the top is concerned and the illustration will, therefore, serve to
elucidate
cases.
sides,
as in the previous
my
description.
This jardiniere
is,
in the frames
for,
must not
it
fit
as
glass
expands
however, capable of standing some height from the ground, the four corner pieces being
may
j I
be fractured unless room is allowed it. Fig. 19 shows a hanging basket for flowers, made of four sides of wood, or better, iron, with china plaques let into the centres, on which transfers can be made or opals can be used. which have been previously printed in the ordinary way. If the frame is iron, and opals which "print out" (like silver albumenised paper) are used (the "Snowdrift" opals, made by Messrs. Percy Lund & Co., are of this class),
;
prolonged to form legs, and a bottom shelf being added. Supposing we have one of these, we can fill the panels with opals, or transfers on
china plaques
;
and
if
the bottom
is
lined with
tin,
window
and
the earth and flowers can be placed directly in the basket if not, pots must be used, or the
;
glued to the centre of their respective panels. I have now given sufficient examples of
be ruined
"house decoration by photography" to show hove very largely our " art-science" may be made
to
when
Pots can, of
removed for this purpose. But I have given so many hints as to objects to be decorated, that I really think readers must be getting quite tired of the subject; I will, therefore, wind up with a concluding piece of furniture of a more than usually elaborate description. Take four pieces of ornamental wood, say 2
course, be
feet long,
surroundings
all
and I
will leave
my
readers to
them have
ingenuity
may
invent.
\\ inches broad, and inch thick. You will now want four more, say 9 inches long and \\ inches square. These pieces, when
fastened at the corners, will obviously form a frame, or, rather, a kind of hollow box without
HOW
TO
HE
Leyden
jar
is
when
by
same kind as those forming the corners, and the same length, but only | inch thick, to match the top and bottom pieces, are fastened in the middle of
pieces, of the
sides.
Two more
called a discharger.
of
the wide-necked
jam
each of
the
the longest sides, equidistant from end pieces and from themselves. Now we have eight squares round the sides, and these we fill with wooden squares about half an inch thick. In the centres of these we cut panels about \ inch deep, and in these we put
in the neck.
The
the
Pound the edges we glue plush, and a very elaborate ornament is the
opals or opalines.
first be covered, levelling brush then cover the sides in two or three pieces, the edges overlapping each other, and also cover the outside to the same height as the inside with tinfoil. It must be fixed both inside and outside with glue, and
foil
foil
with a
soft
170
HOW
When the
to
fit
glue
a large cork
hinged at one end, and with a brass ball at the other end. The handle is made of glass, to insulate the person discharging the jar; one ball is applied to that on the jar, and the other to
the outer coating of tinfoil,
it
and pare
;
when
the jar
is
the top off level about inch above the glass then fix in the centre a piece of brass rod, 6 inches
long, with a brass ball
bore a
HOW
IX.
TO MAKE-UP FOR
THE STAGE.
By PROFESSOR LIONEL ARTHUR.
Scotch, Irish, French, Germans, Russians, Italians, Spaniards, Portuguese, Danes and Wallachians.
next say a few words on the makeup for drunkards, a very wide class and here again the actor has a splendid chance, if he only knows how to make use of it. Mr. C. Harrison, in his little work on " Theatricals and Tableaux Vivants," speaks as follows on this subject: "Some say that in making up for a drunkard, it is essential to illustrate
;
this is true,
and the glowing cheeks constitute the average make-up for the stage tippler. But there are drunkards in real life who go on drinking for years and years, and whose countenauees, to the ordinary observer, are free from any blemish that drink might Therefore, if anyone has to attempt the cause. difficult role of a drunken man, he should make up as little as possible. The ruffled hair, the unshaven chin, the neck-tie awry, the sleepy
the red nose
appearance
trembling
LEYDEN JAK.
little
of
the
eyes,
the
businesslike
the
things
the
inseparable
from
grossly
an habitual
disfiguring
rod tightly through, leaving the ball 2 inches above the cork. Fix a piece of brass chain, 3
inches long, to the lower end of rod, and fix the
without
rouge."
This
little
wax
dissolved in
methylated
is
spirits,
paragraph took my eye some years ago, and I have carefully preserved it ever since. But rouge does not in itself constitute the make-up of this or any other character, as the writer seems 'to imply. He also, it will be observed, advises that the make-up for a drunkard should
be as slight as possible, yet in the very next
HOW
171
paragraph he gives suggestions and good ones too for a very minute and elaborate make-up. For what are the "the ruffled hair, the unshaven ehin, the sleepy eyes, the awry necktie," and the other traits, so well put, "but very essential aids in the make-up of such a character? Too much rouge should not be used on the face, it is true, and the man who persists in its abuse is, at the best, a poor artist. Having quoted Mr. Harrison, I may perhaps add to his remarks by giving his
Irishmen. The Irish are something like their neighbours the Scotch, but have a somewhat more ruddy appearance they have light brown
;
hair,
!
and blue or
light eyes.
Powder the
face
fuller's earth,
heighten up the
countenance with some light touches of rouge, making the colour a little more marked on the cheek-bones. Put in the line under the eyelashes a little bolder than usual, touch up the eyebrows, and make the eyes generally as sparkling and merry as possible. Use powderblue on the chin, sides of face, and throat.
curly or
scratch
method
of
making up
First, let
coating of wig
same
brown
colour.
If
an elderly man, then a straggling grey wig should be worn, either bald or half bald. The unshaven chin is also effective in a make-up of this kind. The expression of tipsy arrogance may be caught by faint umber lines being painted from the corners of the mouth downwards, and a shading of light
to represent
brown
If whiskers
be made
of crepe hair of
any shade.
wig is worn, and in some characters a slight amount of side whisker, kept high up. This make-up is for such characters as Conn, Danny Mann, etc. for heavy Irish villains, such as Black Mullins, Harvey Duff, Powder the face as etc., proceed as follows before, but colour the powder with a slight Put in a strongly amount of Dutch pink. marked line beneath the lower eyelashes, and some well-marked crow's-feet, proceeding in an upward direction rub the brown grease paint well into the hollow under the eyebrows, and into the hollows of the eyes, to give them a The eyelids tierce and determined appearance. and the marked indent just beneath the eyes should have a slight tinge of rouge applied, and the chin, throat, and sides of face must
;
:
an unwashed, unshaven
ing the characteristics of the ancient Celts In the western portions fair hair and blue eyes.
of
the
country, the
straight
appearance.
brown
hair,
complexion
somewhat
eyebrows must be stuck on, and a black wig put on, when an effective make-up will be obtained. Complexion No. 3 or 5 Fox's Instructions.
The
and
10,
very
little
rouge.
man
may
:
we
white or prepared
Welsh.
eyes.
For the mixing with it a little carmine, put a deeper colour on the cheekbones. Fair or sandy wig anyone possessing dark whiskers may make them fair by rubbing them with wig paste, and slightly powdering them with chrome-yellow or Dutch pink.
give at the end of each character.
Complexion
fuller's earth.
brunette
and
black
complexion use
fuller's
earth,
The American people closely American. resemble the English, as is only natural, being
When
follows
:
grease
paints
are
used,
proceed
as
By intermarriage, however, with Indians they have, to a large extent, acquired the high cheek-bones, and the short chin and nose which is so characteristic of the
direct descendants.
Complexion No. 2 bright colour on cheeks. Hair sandy, short and wavy, muttonchop sandy whiskers. Powder white or pink.
The " stage South American Red Indians. nearly always considerably overYankee " is drawn and exaggerated in this country whether
;
172
HOW
be male or female, in almost every case tnis is apparent. In plays such as "The Octoroon," one naturally looks for a little high colouring, but when we come to the upper classes of modern society, there is but very little difference between an American and a good old English gentleman, therefore the make-up should be about the same. An imperial may, perhaps, be worn, and whiskers dispensed with. For the melodramatic slave-owning Yankee, we can allow a little licence and make-up in a more picturesque, if more imaginative, manner. For
it
defect
etc.,
use the
pink making-up for a sallow complexion, put a colouring of rouge on the cheek bones, under the eyes, and on the chin. Stick on the chin the usual tuft of hair, and apply powder-blue over the upper lip and sides of face, to give an unshaven appearance to the parts where the
earth
and
Dutch
parting.
Powder
fuller's earth.
;
The German consists of two types those of tall stature, robust form, fair complexion, red
hair,
and blue
south
In
the
the
we meet with a
;
moustache and whiskers should be. This blue A wig with must be used sparingly here. long straight hair is worn. For a Yankee with a dark complexion use ruddy rouge or dark flesh grease paint, have black eyebrows and long keep the hair on the chin straight black wig close under the lower lip, and let the lines proceeding from the mouth be painted in a downward direction. Of course, the usual lines for maturity or manhood have all got to be
;
most
frequently
seen.
powder with
fuller's earth,
cheek-bones rather sparingly, put in the line under the eyelashes, and the other lines according to age. Wear a fair wig, with hair well
brushed back behind the ears. For an older man, such as a doctor or professor, wear a half bald wig, heavy grey moustache and eyebrows, blue powder on chin, and put in the crow's-feet and furrows as for old age. A pair of spectacles are often worn in these characters, short-sightedness being a marked trait in the literary
German
character.
moustache.
Powder
is
fuller's earth.
The French.
tall
According
to the
"Peoples
of
and
the
head,
occupying
about
fifth
of
most part comparatively of low stature, with dark eyes and hair, and round head their area being about three-fifths of the total space.
;
Between these regions there lie a mixed people. The make-up for French characters is much the same as for English, the following special
features only being
No. 2| with Hair high lights to broaden the features. from forehead without and brushed long, fair, a fair moustache and beard being parted frequently brushed from a centre parting. Powder white and pink. Spectacles or pincenez may be worn with advantage. The northern Russian is very fair Russians. the Eussian peasantry have often light brown, The make-up is about flaxen, or yellow hair. the same as for an Englishman, but a full or heavy beard, moustache, and whiskers may be
Fox's Method.
:
; :
Complexion
fair,
curly wig.
St.
Many,
in
introduced,
namely, the
Petersburg I
AMATEUR CONJURING.
fancy are of a dark swarthy nature, with dark eyes and black hair, tall and thick-set, and very strong. See " The Peoples of the "World." The Italians have an elegant light and graceful form, elevated and finely shaped features, intellectual and lively expression, dark complexion,
the nose is generally and hair aquiline, lower jaw broad, and the chin prominent. These characters lend themselves to very effective treatment, as, for instance, Macari in " Called Back." Complexion No. 3 or 3 mixed Fox's Method. with 10. Hair: black. Powder: fuller's earth made slightly brown.
Fox's Method.
173
Complexion
No.
4.
Powder
numbers
in
Mr.
black
eyes
list
given in a former
The Spaniards are like the natives of Africa, of moderate height, and brown skin. The lower classes have high cheek-bones, slightly arched eyebrows, and usually wear side whiskers only. The women are generally brunette, although the blonde type occurs frequently they are almost always of short stature, have large eyes, veiled by thick lashes, a delicate nose, and well-formed
;
Card-producing
Wand (continued).
;
jN
my last I
now
I
I will
fulfil
my
promise.
Pre-
suming you have the wand already charged if may use the word you address your audience somewhat as follows " Ladies and gentlemen, I have, after many weary and trying experi-
nostrils.
ments,
:
conclusively
proved
that
everything
Complexion No. 3 or 3 mixed with 10. Hair Powder: fuller's earth made into a black.
brown
the
tint.
much
less
handsome than
irregular
generally
having
complexion is rich, but the northern peasant is usually swarthy they have black hair and eyebrows. The women have a sallow complexion, fine hair and eyes. Fox's Method. Complexion No. 5, with a little 10. Hair: black. Powder: white or
;
some time or other, appear again in its original state. I want to make my meaning clear observe a drunken man I beg your pardon, I mean intoxicated gentleman with a bottle of liquor, and see the state he is in. Now, if he is put out of the way until he is sober I mean recovered from the shock when he is free once more, does he not get a refresher to commemorate the occasion, and then is he not in the same state as he was originally ? I think you will all own that is correct. So much for the
'
'
'
'
fuller's earth.
theory.
fair,
Now
and blonde
to
hair.
I have here a pack of cards, and I will commence by asking a gentleman to draw one,
it.
to
so
grow
a great length
they shaved
their
of you.
Thank you. Do not let me see it, I beg Now, will you kindly burn it at this
upper lip, and the moustache was kept as long as possible. (See Louis Figuier in " The Human Pace.") Complexion No. 2. Hair fair. Powder
: :
:
candle
card.
not.
as
its-candleous to use
I hope
(To the
is to
audience.)
I notice
how
is
pleased anyone
white.
No
allu-
buns
;
oblong
faces,
there
is
a boy
down
and clean
anticipation.
white teeth.
(n.s.)
so
now
174
When
No, I did
you put the screwed-up paper in the box, of course an empty piece is substituted. I call to mind a wand I saw some time ago, called the " pistol wand," which makes a report
and have been incorporated with the buns. Tes, you may come up now, my boy, and hold the buns. (Here the professor hands both buns to the boy, at the same
time whispering to him to eat one.)
Now,
this
sir, I walk among the audience, and then turn round to go on with
wonderful experiment
before
rascal
What
a,
f)
if
that
young
DESCRIPTION OF
FIGURES.
FIG.
II.
WAND
; ;
SECTION
a,
;
OF
The "card-producing wand" a pistol. The working is would make a capital one. similar, and by just a little alteration will answer the two purposes as well as two separate wands. I have made a drawing of the " pistol wand," and by comparing it with the illustration of the other, it will be easily seen what would require to be done to effect the alteration. The wand would have to be screwed on the outside, as at a (Fig. 11), and the two pieces one for the pistol and one for the card screw-cut inside to go on to the " stock" of the wand (if I may use Fig. 12, a, shows section of that expression). Of course, the pistol wand, and b, card wand. pistol barrel must be made of thick sheet-brass,
like
to resist the
explosion, with
I (Fig. 11).
a nipple at the
screwed ferrule g, junction of wand, can unscrewed be for loading the pistol, and changed for the card wand.
;
bottom end, as in
FIG. 12.
a,
SECTION OF
TO
MAKE THEM.
BAXTER.
B. A.
.6
my buns the
HE
during
one in which I put the card. What do you mean by it, eh ? Yery good
trick,
is it ?
the
of the
ordinary carpenter
other one,
however, special
had an a^/wdance of supper. Well, Open I must do the best I can. your mouth so. I fancy I can hear
the colour of
it.
Yes, I
am
troubled
with very acute hearing, my boy. Let me see if I can feel it with my
Take up the wand and between the boy's teeth. ' Then loose the catch, and the card will press against the boy's mouth. Draw the wand gently from his mouth, and the card will appear to come out, being pressed by the spring. This, if done neatly, is a very effective illusion and it is not one out of a hundred amongst your audience
wand."
insert
it
;
and church furnishers have school, embarked in this enterprise, and, owing to the special work, have found it beneficial to make patterns and have cast-iron standards for forms, desks, and other purposes. Neither the ordinary carpenter nor the amateur would find it desirable or remunerative to have iron castings prepared to their design, for the few forms they are likely
to require
;
forms and stools from a purely wood-worker's standpoint, and to show amateurs how I have made seats, both with and without Of backs, by different modes of construction. course, if the amateur likes iron standards he can obtain some, but not many patterns, ready
struction of
for use
;
FORMS AND
garden
seats,
STOOLS.
;
175
'where
iron,
thoroughly
well
Now, to make a satisfactory form without waste of time and material, demands, like most
other things, some care and attention, especially
at the outset.
them very much too slight yet even when the side boards are slight, if a number of angle blocks are well fitted and glued
I have seen
inside, in the
The
must be studied for inches high will be found suffiadults, 17 inches will be about
:
The users
cient
;
of the seats
struction
like Figs. 4, 5,
and
infant classes, 7
while for
under
less
The width
wood not
the stock sizes of deal, presuming that to be the material used. The "batten" measures 7
inches wide, though some are a inches
little
than 1 inch stuff, which is fitted to the standards as shown, and is notched to the standard as well
as cut into the centre of the
4, 5,
same
(see Figs.
less
and
6).
may be taken
to
of a form.
nail or screw
For our present purpose 9 inches, or " deal " width, may well be used for a larger size while "plank," or 11 -inch stuff, will be useful for taller lads, and will not prove uncomfortable for
;
object
and
if
the
move
bend
adults.
We
can
also, for
separately,
it
battens
together,
or
"deal" and
a-half,
the form.
making the form in one case nearly 14 inches, and in the other nearly 13J inches; beyond 14 inches we need not go. In width, each sitter needs room varying from 10 or 12 inches for a
small child, to 18 or 20 inches for an adult.
Having according
sizes of
In each method of construction the top is morand tenons are left on the standards these may be cut with a f or f-inch chisel, as may be convenient and as the tops will probably be deal, and merely be planed and rounded without gauging to a width, the mortises, if gauged from
tised,
; ;
our forms,
;
may
standards
may
when
is to
the
tenons are to be
the
remedy
gauge
be more numerous than three. "We may safely reckon any form less than 6 feet may have two
standards, and 6 feet and over, three.
when
Having thus decided on height, width, and number of standards, we will fix upon the shape which we will give to the standards. As before stated, there are different modes of construction the first and probably the older mode is to have
;
it
not too
much
to say that
more mistakes
However, there
especially as
it
is
two thin boards, which need not be very wide along each edge under the seat these boards are
fitted to the standards,
3,
marking the
stan-
according to Figs.
1, 2,
dards, as follows
shows the seat standard and would be fitted together, and as they would appear if the form were cut across close to the standard. It cannot be denied that this construction looks well and wears well too, if the side boards are not too thin, though
4.
and
Fig.
and mortises, like Fig. 8, showing 1 inch from each edge of top, and equidistant from the centre, that is about 1 inch clear from the edge, then the mortise, and make
a mortise about a half-pattern of the standards also in zinc or
176
FORMS AND
STOOLS.
FIC
3.
177
the
managed by making
:
standard less
by one person,
Pig.
8.
The way
to ascertain this is to
mark
wood intended
down
dard accurately to the centre line, mark round, turn over half-pattern, mark again, and compare with your copy of Pig. 8 ; if they agree, all
right
;
measured from the end, thus to seat three persons, J from end to seat four persons, J from end to seat five persons, J of the length of the form from each end, will be the position of the
; ;
standards.
if not,
they must be
made
to do so.
and
;
is to
may be used sparingly in making forms any reader has any difficulty that is not explained, he may rely on the best advice the writer can give him in the column for " Amateurs in Council."
Nails
if
;
If only
and cut the pattern accordingly. one form is required, I should make
;
one of the standards the pattern but if several forms are to be made, by all means make a halfpattern, as above advised.
take
"ORGAN BUILDUR.
1'
In mortising, a centre-bit bole can be used to away some of the wood, but care must be
The Bellows(continued).
proceed with the formation of the
E now
taken to square the hole out accurately to the line. Do not use a chisel the full size of the mortise if you bore out the hole, but a smaller
chisel.
reservoir.
precisely the
If
you mortise
size of the
mortise required.
In cutting away the wood between the tenons of the standards, a bow-saw or keyhole-saw is quicker than cutting out with a chisel ; and if the
accustomed to the use of the saw, far preferable ; he can easily pare away any projection left on beyond the lines.
is
Connect the top edge of is fastened at once. the underside of the top, to of ribs the top pairs be will points so that the 1J inches from each end
workman
it
and side, and 3| inches from the outside edge all round and the top side of the bottom pairs to the bottom of the middle frame, with the point 3 inches from the corners, and | inch all the way round. Next fasten the bottom edge of the top The ribs to the top of the middle frame. measurements same position for these will be the
;
shorter, rather
;
standards the
than longer, than the other this can easily be tested with a piece
it
Turn what has already as those of the top. bottom edges of the the fasten been done, and
bottom pairs to the top side of the lining, and the reservoir is ready for the gussets. Prop the bellows up at each end, so that the underside of the middle frame is 7 inches above the middle board, and 4 inches between the middle frame and top. The gussets are shaped like those of the feeders, only on a smaller scale. Those that fill in the gaps made by the bottom pairs of ribs will be laid tight across the middle, but the wide part of the top gussets must be left loose, to allow for the expansion of the space between the points of the ribs as the bellows descends. In
putting on the top ones, cut the bedding leather for f inch, and pass the ends of the gussets into
the bellows, and turn
of twine, stretching
when
form
is
A
:
piece of
advice may be given, with apologies when two tenons are cut on the end of an upright, when two hinges are used to hinge a flap or two legs
to support the same, do not have the tenons,
this, is
forms specially. Many a one has sat on the end of a form, and has found it tilt up at the other end and when the person most concerned has rerule,
it
good general
and
applies
to
covered his equilibrium, the form does the same with a suddenness and violence that considerably
injures
it
;
therefore
make
distant to avoid
such incidents.
This can be
them up on
to the top
and
178
middle frame,
respective
ends.
The
wide
for
part,
where
on the
ribs,
must be cut
J inch across, and the pieces made to overlap one another, with a piece, like Fig. 17, to cover the overlapping, the point going to the point of
the ribs.
Z\ inches long, and bevel one edge from \ inch on the top side. Chamfer off the back top edge for \ inch, and bore two holes from the top to pass screws through to fasten the pallet
to | inch to the
panel.
Now
The corner
Those for
the fleshy surfaces outwards 2 inches longer When than the valve, and \ inch wider. glueing the leather together, pass a warm iron
ends of the gussets, but those for the bottom series of ribs will be glued on outside. The
pieces to be fastened in the angle formed
make
by
for
made
opening of the least description between them. At 1 inch from the front end of the wood, insert a screw eye (b, Fig. 19), f inch round, in the middle of the pallet, and make a spring shaped like c To (Fig. 19), out of iron wire, No. 11 gauge.
and cut a hole in the centre of each from front to back, 10 inchesfrom one end, and llf inches from the other, 4 inches long by 3 inches wide. These are to be covered by the waste pallets. The waste pallet is to the organ bellows, what the
safety valve is to the steam engine.
If
it
make
twice round
diameter.
the round coil at the end, wrap the iron a piece of round stuff, f inch
The spring
will
be fixed in the
tail-
from
were
some part
of
of
from the back edge. On the top side of the pallet, where c will work, make a groove with a small gouge sufficiently deep to bury the thickness of
the wire.
When
to end,
the leather
is
dry, pull
it
well
continual motion
the
feeders
from end
and from
side to side, to
break
would cause such an excessive pressure of wind come to grief, and that part would be a gusset. With a safety valve in the bellows, when the top is raised by the force of air from below, the tapes (x x, in Fig. 30) tighten, and after the requisite height has been attained, the pallet opens, and lets the surplus wind back into the feeder. Having the
that the weakest part would
the joint of the glue. If properly ready, it should give repeated sharp cracks when pulled. Lay
it
down on a
it
well as
the
and lay the wood on to it, at the same time rubbing the pallet on the leather, to make sure of a good joint. When properly set, featheredge one side of a strip of calendered leather, 3^ ins. wide, and glue it so that 1 J ins. will stick to the bevelled end, and the remainder will lay on the 2 inches projecting beyond the
far as required,
valve
is
let
the wind
and 20 represent
sections
of
waste
pallet, the
latter horizontal.
To make
stuff,
it,
get a piece of
inch
dry, put the tailof the bevel, end inch away from the piece all round leather the knife cut and with a sharp and tidy. clean look it make to pieces, the two where place the ascertain off, trimming Before the screws will pass from the tail-piece through the leather, and with a red-hot iron burn holes
back end
of the pallet.
When
J inch. Bevel the back end from \\ inches up the back, down to \ inch at the end, and the
sides for
side,
leaving a similar
off
trifle larger than in the tail-piece, so that the screw will be quite free from the action of the alum and other chemicals often used in leather dressing, which things tend to make the screws
Round
the thin
end down to nothing almost, and size the bevel. For the tail-piece (a, Fig. 19), get a piece of stuff the same thickness as the pallet, \\ inches wide,
The side of the pallet to be placed nearest must be rubbed well with whitening, panel the and a piece of coarse glasspaper passed over the other. it two or three times from one end to
rusty.
179
or,
much
better
still,
\ inch
iron,
1 inch wide.
which
On no
account must
the least particle of glue be on the faced side of the leather. Place the wooden pattern of the bellows pallet on the top side of middle panel,
Each will consist of two pieces 6 inches long, and another piece 1 foot 5 inches long. Fasten
one end of the short pieces to each end of the long one, with rivets put in the least bit loose. In the centre of a, make a hole just sufficiently
large
to pass a lj-inch screw through, size about No. 12. The free end of the short pieces will have a similar hole, b\ inches, from the
and mark four groups of holes in a similar way as the bottom boards were done. It will be noticed in Pig. 21 (one of these panels), that the pallets are all at one side. This will be
placed at the front side of the bellows. They are thus planned because more wind must come
It will
is
up at the front of the feeder, so the groups of holes are put directly over those in the bottom
Bore and cover them with pallets in precisely the same way as those were done in the feeders. Bore holes round the outside edges and ends, for screws to hold the panel in its place. The dotted lines round Fig. 21, represent a strip of leather glued on the bottom side of the panel, which strip will project a trifle so as to allow for trimming off. A red-hot iron will be passed through the leather where the screw holes were made. Patch and size the bottom side of the wood, rub the strips with whitening, rough them up with glasspaper and rubber, and fix the panels (both
lj-ineh
holes,
while c
is
One of these
6 inches
Out of a piece of f inch birch cut nine pieces, long and ^-inch wide, shaped like Figs. 23 and 24 (the latter being a lengthway section),
3 inches
Place the
brads and a
little
e,
and
being exactly alike) so that they bed an inch all round the gaps formed in the framework of the middle board The last thing to be done is to
fix
one will be fixed to the edge of the top, one on the edge of the middle frame, and a third to the lining. Now pass screws through the free ends and middle of the
in Fig. 22 ; that
is,
on the waste
still,
put in
better
All the screws that are should be greased with good lard or,
pallet.
them too
tight.
A washer,
inch dia-
Eussian tallow, to facilitate their being drawn out on any future occasion, and to prevent them from rusting. Plane the slabs
that are to cover the interstices of the top, bore a |-inch hole with a centre-bit exactly in the
centre of each, patch
holes,
meter,
made out
made
in the middle,
birch to
bellows
may be substituted for the keep the regulators away from the but the wood is the cheaper and better
and size them inside bore and bed them round the bottom, in the same way as the middle panels were done. Pix two thicknesses of strong tape to the eye
;
in
(y,
them through the and fasten them with Pig. 30.) The top should
at the
same
proper time.
sent Fig. 22.
Make, or get made, three regulators to repreThey maybe made of f-ineh birch,
way. The use of this contrivance is to enable the middle frame and top to rise at the same time. If it were not put on, the top would be far above its normal height before the middle frame began its ascent at all. The bellows is now complete, and with a piece of stuff fastened over the wind hole in the end, when the feeders are put in motion, the Put the reservoir should be quite air-tight. piece of work into its place in the organ frame, so that there is a space of f inch between each edge of the bellows and the inside of the frame, and fix it with two screws through the middle
180
Fig. 5).
\ inch diameter,
have now to provide means whereby the motion of the feeders can be placed under the control of one of the most essential of outside beings
We
1 inches square,
pins should
fit
The
vitse
who
musical composers.
without
whom
among the list of This important factotum, the majority of organists would
and yet in many cases be gladly is none other than the much
cheeks
of
the
blowing
Lignum
come
off badly,
dispensed with,
nificant
to
deprecated organ-blower.
Even such an
it
insig-
makes the better centre, being naturally a Out of 1 inch birch greasier wood than box. and shape it like wide, cut a handle 4 inches Fig. 28. At 2 inches from the end, bore a | inch hole (a, Fig. 28), and another (b), so that
the distance between the centre of each will be the same as that
CD
uncomfortable
be placed among
e
Scale.
the
studs
of
the
feeders,
which
this
should be 2 feet 7
inches.
we
of
Halve
supply
bellows
him
with
action,
which Figs. 26, 27, 28, and 29 represent drawings of the component parts.
Fig. 2 6
is
e
\
\ 'v,*'
'*
partofFig.29. Cut a.
square hole through
the handle, and drive
the blowIt
will
?
i
*
*--'
\
A
/ \
i
,_,
v '
,_,
N --''
.
\
\
'-'
''
""
'" N /
/
ing
post.
/
/
'~~\
/ '~\
\ ^"' '^-'
',
consist of a piece of
IOi'""M
/
;'"V~~
/"""- '~
'
*--' **-'
\ /
'
\
\
'
x --'
V._-'
*-_'
On
the top
lever,
b,
of
the
over a and
bore
\ inch thick at the bottom end, which will fit into a mortise in the piece a, representing h in Fig. 4. At the top end of the post, cut away the stuff from each side, to leave a piece in the middle 5 inches long and 1 inch thick. Two pieces of 1 inch birch \\\ inches long, 4 inches
wide, for the cheeks (bb, Fig. 26), will be fast-
The total length of the bellows handle should be 6 feet 1\ inches. Make two rods out of 1 inch birch, like Fig. 27. At
mentioned.
2 inches from the top end bore a f inch hole, and cut a mortise b\ inches in length, and 1 inch wide. The centre of c will be 2 feet 3 inches from the hole at the top. Four round
ened to the post where it has been cut away, with four good stout screws through each piece. At 2 J inches from the top end, bore a f inch hole through each cheek, and in the middle bore a small hole from the top, to come into this larger hole. Drops of oil will be run down this small channel on any future occasion, when from continual motion the centre will squeak. Slightly round the birch pieces from side to side, to give them'a more finished appearance. Now,
get a piece of lignum
vitse,
iron pins,
stuff,
3 inches long,
made out
of f inch
with a tang turned over, 1 inch long, will be used for the connection of the various pieces.
will
be drilled
to take
a \ inch screw. pin is shown in Fig. 27, a, and should fit tight into all holes through
which they have to pass, or the action will 'rattle and nothing could possibly be more annoying to performer and listener alike, than a noisy
bellows action.
or boxwood, turned to
181
crzzi
u
\
/
FIG. 30.
^2R
7>
Scale
li in = IA.
-3
W\G.20.t\3in-/fi
FIG. 26.
2m-/fi.
FIG.ZZ.
Igin-lft.
FI0
29. 3in-/fl.
F1C.Z4-. nait-size.
FIG. 28.
I
jin.-lfl.
->A
<5B
182
AN
BASIL Y
MADE CAMERA.
are forced
We have now all the requisite parts ready, and the next thing is to connect and fix them. First, put the tenon at the end of the blowing post into h (Fig. 4), stand it quite upright, and fasten the top end with four screws from the inside of the top back rail of the organ frame, into one of the cheeks. Unscrew the outside cheek, and when one end of the centre in the handle has been passed into the hole in
the inside, put the outside one in its place, to hold the other end of the pivot on which the
up by the pressure
of the
is
wind in
the feeder.
When
the handle
is
pressed
down
removed, and the middle pallets fall over the holes, and having two feeders, one acts as a collector of the air, and the other as a means whereb}' the air is forced thus forming a continuous into the reservoir
again, this pressure
;
supply
ready
for
distribution
through the
soundboard.
handle will move up and down. Put a pin through the tops of the rods (Fig. 27), which will also pass through a and b (Fig. 28), and
similar pins through the holes in the sides of the feeder studs through c (Fig. 27), to form a
MORTON.
HEEE
this
are, doubtless,
many
wood
readers of
Jig
being
metal
connecting link
feeders.
An action is now complete which, if properly made, will last for years upon years. It will greatly improve the look of all birch, as well as preserve the wood, if it is treated to a
coating of linseed
oil.
working, or in some other equally interesting work, have never experimented in photography.
While the
its
is
very simple in
whatever of
focussing
screws,
in
the
are
Fig. 30 represents a section of the bellows from front to back, a is the top panel b b, the front and back rails of the top c c are the top
; ;
articles telling
how
make
or
buy
outfits,
pair of ribs
d d, the rails of the middle frame e e, the bottom pair of ribs f f, the linings g, the middle panel h h, the rails of the middle board k k, the feeder end ribs l is the bottom board; and M m are the feeder
; ; ;
somewhat puzzling. It is a very difficult thing to go to work and make a camera before one knows anything about using it, and can work
understandingly.
The following
those
little
camera
is
intended for
little,
who would
like to experiment a
and
battens.
The spaces in g and l are the holes through which the wind is to pass, and n are the pallets that cover them, v is a section of the waste pallet x x are the tapes connected to the top, and y is the wooden pin that fastens
;
the tapes.
fathom some of the mysteries of the fascinating art, before purchasing or making a better outfit. This does not imply, however, that the camera is good for nothing else because, although made of the roughest of materials, and put together in the simplest possible manner, it is capable of making good pictures, if small ones. The principal part of a camera is the lens; and this will be the most difficult thing for our
;
may
be used for the lungs of an instrument, no matter how large its dimensions may be. We
photographic experimenter to procure. The best for the purpose, outside of a regular photographic lens,
is
will see
how
the wind
is
collected
is
and
stored.
When
opera-glasses.
articles,
feeder descends, which motion causes the pallets in the bottom board to rise slightly. The
outside air rushes through the holes into the
and when the handle is lifted up, the bottom pallets fall, and retain any wind that has been caught when the feeder dropped, and at the same time the pallets in the middle board
feeder,
he does not own a pair himself. The lens unscrews from the framework of the glass, but must not be removed from the rim that holds it
if
is best, say about 4 inches. If an opera-glass lens cannot be procured, almost any lens of short focus will do. I have made fairly
AN
spectacles;
EASIL Y
MADE CAMERA.
cloth.
183
good pictures with a glass from a cheap pair of so, with such a wide range of glasses to select from, there should not be much
procuring a lens. The only other materials needed are some pieces of pasteboard, thin wood, bookbinder's or similar cloth, a few
tacks, etc.
difficulty in
order to pull
out.
which then presented the appearance of Fig. 2. Before using, it was tested, to see if the focus
As
the
dimensions
will
vary
somewhat
according to the focus of the lens used, I will describe the camera made by myself, as shown in the illustrations, and then readers can alter
the dimensions to suit the lens used,
if
by holding a piece of ground-glass and pointing to an object. The box can be lengthened by means of strips of wood, or shortened by cutting some off
correct,
was
necessary.
all
that is required
is to
to take a quarter-plate,
as the lens would cover nothing larger. A box was constructed of thin wood, 4| inches long, and 3J by 4i inches on the outside, or exactly
the size of a quarter-plate. In the diagram (Fig. 1), which, by the way, is not drawn to scale, but
and the
;
object,
consequently,
only to show the idea, the box is represented by the letters a a. This was made of light, thin wood, and blackened inside and out. Four
inches from one end was placed a partition, b, b, in the centre of which was cut a hole just large
somewhat
distorted
disregard that, as
it
The
sharply
lens
;
may
enough for the opera-glass lens, with its brass rim, to screw into. The distance from the
partition, b, b, to the
but a good way to overcome, or rather disguise, both of these defects, is to print the pictures with a circular mask, d la Kodak, varying the size of
not
cover
the whole
plate
always be the same distance as the focus of the lens and the latter must be screwed into its place with the convex side towards the plate, or
;
The camera has not any arrangement when once fixed, but with the class of lens which would probably be
plate.
;
it is
in
used, the focus of near and far objects does not vary enough to amount to anything neither
and a-half in diameter, and a hole \ inch in diameter was made in the bottom of it. The box was then glued in a hole in the centre of a piece
by 4J inches square. A piece was cut an inch wider than this piece of pasteboard, all around, and a hole cut in the centre for the pill-box. The cloth was
of pasteboard, 3J of bookbinder's cloth
between the visual and actinic focus, if any, amount to enough to be taken into account. The arrangement is very simple, but it is made exactly on the same principle as all the larger cameras, and by its use anyone can make himself quite familiar
does the
difference
with the
art.
Now, perhaps,
attached to the
some reader
may become
it.
then covered with glue and put over the pasteboard, the edges lapping over and fastening the pasteboard to the end of the box. Thus, the bottom of the box, with its hole, which should
little
may wish
come exactly opposite the centre of the lens, served as a diaphragm for the lens, and the cover as a cap. The relative positions of the lens and
box are shown in the diagram. Then a pasteboard box, about half an inch shorter than the wooden box, was made to slide on tightly over
Although possessed of a larger hand camera, this one was so small, and so little likely to be noticed, that it was handy whenever a small view was wanted in a place where the larger camera would be too conspicuous. With a good lens from an opera-glass, instantaneous views can be readily taken. A wooden box was made, exactly
like the
184
AN
EASIL Y
MADE CAMERA.
covering, served to set the shutter.
pasteboard front, one of wood was fitted in, just outside the one which held the lens. In the centre of this was made the hole for exposure,
shallow
which should he as large as will allow the picture to be sharp on ground-glass. This hole serves as the diaphragm, so should be made with smooth edges. On this second partition was arranged the instantaneous shutter. Fig. 3 shows how it was constructed, a is a cam-like
was then made, with holes in its edges and trigger, and it was placed on over the end of the box, just meeting the large
cover.
A hole
the exposure.
The camera then presented the Fig. 4. There was room for but
by a screw
in the centre,
b,
when
it
the hole in the wooden partition. band, from c to d, pulled it across when released
but the whole affair was so small, that plates could be changed in a bag of dark cloth more easily than they could be changed in plateholders.
All the
inside
by the
which was worked from the outside. A screw, f, in the edge of the cam, stopped it at the right place by contact with the end of the trigger. A spring held the
trigger, e,
latter
in place, and a string, h, from the cam, through a staple and hole in the outside
any similar lens is used, that has no framework to hold it, it can be held in place by having the hole in the end slightly smaller than the glass, and pasting a strip of paper
across the ends.
185
inches by
foot If inches.
we
ROE,
wide
face,
straight
and
brought out
and perfected, nearly all of which we who delight to call ourselves amateur photographers invariably like
to
try,
iSmn
the collection
of
apparatus
at last
we
are
articles in
much
in the way,
and thus we are led to look about us for better and more secluded accommodation.
Circumstances similar in
me
to construct
and
in order to properly
illuminate
structed,
the
said
room,
con-
which
article.
is
The arrangement
ior
construction
is
of the
workers,
by and being
serviceable article,
commended
as a suitable object
and
proceeding further with the subject, I would again bring before the reader's notice
the
Before
urgent necessity
of
first
work
to
be taken in hand, prior to commencing operations. My again pressing this matter may be deemed by many superfluous, but the great importance of the
subject must be
is
my
apology.
things to take in hand are the sashes, require three, in size the same, namely, 12 by 12 inches inside the rebate; this will give us an outside dimension of 1 foot If
first
The
of which
we
Another small, though necessary thing, is to put a face mark upon your stuff this consists of a pencil mark made on the best face of the stuff, and with the end of the mark, as it were, running over the edge and a short distance down the best edge (Fig. L).
fore should be well looked to.
;
186
select the
;
best
may
up
;
cut the
to
wedge them
is
be careful,
work this straight, as it is upon the face and face edge everything depends. "We now set a marking gauge to the width of stuff, namely, \\ inches, and gauge the whole twelve pieces.
wide.
possess a pair of
may
The superfluous stuff is planed off down to the gauge line, working square off the face. The gauge now requires setting to the thickness, 1-| inches, and both edges gauged we can now plane down until both gauge lines are reached,
;
each end
wedge which
is
is
preferably
made
of
placed in
and our stuff is ready to be set out. For the stiles we require six pieces, for the rails also six pieces so select them, and place in pairs, the face marks being placed together. On the full-sized section, shown at a, will be found
;
The sketch at m will, I think, render it clear. The sash is placed between the end block and the wedge then, if the wedge be driven home, it will be found to fetch up the shoulders
;
admirably.
of great use
dotted the setting out required for the the chisel used for the mortises being
stiles
couple of these cramps will prove on very many occasions, the size
inch.
Bear in mind, when setting out, that the distance between the front edges, or, in other words, the
sight size, 12 inches.
will
is
Now for the actual glueing up. The sash taken up should be laid face downwards, and
off, a small brush being used to apply the glue at each corner ; this being done, turn over the sash, and glue the remaining corners, knock up together, and
114- inches,
be rendered sufficiently lucid on reference being made to the sketch at 13. Mortise the
stiles,
and cut
in the shoulders
on
rails
down
to
Now
down
with your
to the
fillister,
or in the absence of
gauge
this,
lines.
a.
each, as
section
at
keep square and straight all ways, for nothing is easier than to err in this way whilst glueing up such articles. When completed, place aside carefully to dry, and then proceed with the frame. The frame proper is simply four pieces of stuff 3^ inches wide, with two plough grooves to take
the parting beads, section at a (Fig. A); setting out
will
be 1^,
\,
accomplished
Fitting
is
may
be
inches, respectively,
making a
total of
proceeded with.
undoubtedly one of the bugbears of amateur work, being a process requiring at once both patience, confidence, and neatness for without these essentials our work will appear
slovenly.
It
is
when
fitting
that
the
great
3^ inches. The groove should be J inch deep. The thickness of the stuff is inch, the lengths being 2 feet 6 inches and 1 foot 2 inches twice in each case these are fitted together by tongueing, as shown at c, full size. The sight size of the frame is 2 feet 4 inches high, by 1
;
benefits to be derived
from a
At
strictly to
this stage
we
shall
have
to obtain three
;
In
fitting,
is to
work
is
the lines, the sight size line being the limit line
of the mitre in all cases
set
;
if
this line
accurately
down, the trouble of fitting the sashes together should be reduced to a minimum. The sashes having been fitted together, we
these can be purchased at small cost of any good ironmonger they are inserted in top rail of frame for the cords to ran over ; the positions are shown at i, a full size elevation of sheave and mortice at J. Bear in mind that the side face of sheave must
187
The method
now
rail,
if
everything
is
as
it
shown
at
j,
on which the wheel will revolve, which sketch will, I think, render
without
nails
made on
This
is
stiles.
matters
clear
further
explanation.
French
pins
wire
when
but I trust that any lack of lucidity may be made up by a little intelligent thought on the
reader's part.
and the linings prepared for the outside. The width of these will depend upon circumstances my own are cut to exceed the width of the frame, about 1 inch all round, making a width 2- inches but possibly, if they were wider, in many cases it would prove advantageous. The top lining, d, is formed of matchlining, but see the tongues on same are in good order before fixing. The linings, e, are mitred at the lower corners it is advisable to screw these on for
;
Having
we may
horns of the
plane, drop
and
after rendering
has been accurately performed, the bottom edge of sash should touch perfectly the frame. All we have to do now is to make the
operation
from the
The parting beads now require preparing in section as at a (Kg. A), but \ inch wide we
;
and twice
foot
1 inches
the plough
remaining edge of sash parallel to the one just dealt with drop the sash into its place, knock in the parting beads, and see if all is well and working easily without chatter or undue friction. Perform this operation on the remaining sashes, and then prepare and fix on by means of screws the inner linings, the top one of which will require to be 1 foot b\ inches by 1 foot the narrow linings 3 inches, and inch thick
; ;
being, respectively,
foot b\ inches
and
foot
answer for
3i inches in length, and If inches wide. It remains for us now to give our work a coat of paint. For glazing the sashes we shall
require one piece of obscured glass
Shoot one remaining one, proceed as follows edge perfectly straight, and then shoot the corresponding edge until the sash is sufficiently narrow to slide between the stiles of the frame in a perfectly free and easy manner all this
;
stiles,
or,
as they are
we
;
will
now
deal with
them
in a
be sufficiently stout one piece for orange, and one piece ruby, all 12 inches square; these are puttied in by the usual method. We can now run the cords through the pulleys, and connect with the top bar of sashes and then, after fixing beads and linings, test for faults, which, if any should crop up, do not
;
21
oz. will
proper manner
on the bench,
The means
the
purpose
holding
sashes
in
required
bottom
rail
of frame.
position, is
by
fixing three of
Young's patent
make
this clear.
Having
and having set them to the greatest distance the bottom rail of the sash is from the bottom rail of the frame, scribe or, in other words, keep one leg of the dividers close against the frame rail, and preserving this contact, run the dividers along, causing the remaining leg to mark the sash. Should the sash be a little out of square, we shall
of compasses or spring dividers,
Being quite aware that the circumstances under which the arrangement is used will vary
considerably, especially
when
fixing,
shall
;
referring those readers who require special advice to " Amateurs in Council." All questions
shall receive
my
188
how
my
That was good, easy reading. It is not best to attempt such work as it is too perplexing, and nothis at the start
does not prove, however, that
it
;
How to Engrave. We are now supposed to have our tools in condition, our pad and stand made, and everything in readiness for work. Place the pad on the table or bench, either on the pad prepared for it, or on something that will bring it high enough to allow a perfectly
Hold the block in hand, and the tool in the right. When working near the edge of a block, hold the tool as in Fig. 20, but when the parts to be
erect position of the body.
should be attempted at
that
first.
The
be cut
first
be outI use
is,
first
the
left
thumb on
on
and think it the best of any for the purpose. Cut on both sides of the lines, going underneath them each time, and turning the block so as to be able to do so by cutting underneath the line it is in sight all the time, and you are not so liable to cut into it as if the tool was run along on the upper side. When ^he figure is
finest tint tool to outline with,
;
my
Fig.
21),
pressing
it
so as to
and widen the cut, but have a good look-out that, the tool keeps clear from
tool
the line
itself.
One great
difficulty the
beginner will
common one
for
this
FIG.
have with his tools, will be to keep the under side of them from damaging the
lines already
of the light
They are of a style similar to those seen in the windows of the chemist, and several can work around one globe by a proper
does the point of the tool need Jwatching, but the sharp underside as well. Practice only will
enable one to hold the tools properly, and do
not be discouraged
first.
arrangement of lamps. A bull's-eye lens will answer the purpose as well as a globe, and is preferred by many. I use the latter fastened to a German student's lamp, which allows of
adjustment to different heights.
It is well to
practise on a block with the different tools, fol-
if
many
how
to repair all
damage done in this way unless it be too serious. The design will now present the appearance
the black parts represent the waste wood, which must be cleared away before the My process of doing this is to cut is complete.
of Fig. 22
;
lowing no particular design, but just cutting straight lines to get used to handling them. They will go hard at first, and it will be discouraging to think of ever being able to cut the fine lines in the various engravings that have been examined but time and patience will do wonders. My first attempt was the outline of a
;
go around the design with a small scooper, rounding out the corners, and leaving quite a margin all around the lines. Inside of the design the waste wood should be dug out with
the regular scoopers, unless the spaces are unusually large. The method of using the scoopers
is
human
on the block,
that^I wrote
copper-plate
my name
when
I
using
lifting-
had
but some-
much
faster
movement, and the wood will cut away and easier, and the lines of the cut
189
scooper, as
be protected. Do not use too large a you can get along faster with a small
tools
and sharp tool, after the inside spaces and a good wide margin on the outside have been dug out if the amateur has a work bench, it is there be had best take the
block
to
finish
it.
the waste wood, going over the design carefully, and exactly reproducing in wood the print
chosen.
with,
with
carpenter's
gouge and mallet chip off the waste wood, keeping a sharp eye =3=j on the finished lines,
that they do not get
Note the different lines used to shade and how one article is made to appear round and another hollow, by means of black simple and white lines. These engravings, where plain line work is used, are the best for the amateur to copy.
Some enothers
paint;
graph
charcoal
work,
the
and
adapted
pose.
to
the pur-
20.
HOW
brush marks, etc. but do not attempt to copy anything of this kind.
lishments
is
One
little
of
the
neatest
I
engravings
machines machines
they
are
every line
fined
is
well de-
arranged
a drilling
much
like
machine,
and
have
and easy to trace, is shown in Fig. 24, which is printed from a block engraved by
the
author
of
this
article. It is
FIG
a picture
being
moved
under
;
them
as required
but
copied from a bird dealer's price list. The answer for ordinary work. amateur will find this a If the amateur possesses FIG. 23. GOUGE FOR CLEARING AWAY WASTE WOOD. good design to try, and it a lathe, he may easily exwill also indicate the style of work temporise a routing machine by using twist drills for bits that can easily be done after a little but there is practice. danger of doing damage to the cut Tints are used to shade with, to with such an arrangement, and the job represent sky and background, which does not look as well when finished. forms a good part of the engraver's The practice with plain figures work. Plain tints are composed of should be kept up until one can handle parallel lines of the same width, the tools easily, and has acquired the FIG. 22. SIMPLE DESIGN OUTLINED. art of cutting around a mark, and with the space between them more leaving it clear and well defined on the block or less wide, to represent different shades. after that the best practice is reproducing These lines and spaces are varied in every
;
;
and
another's work.
By means
conceivable
they are
way to show different things; made with the tint tools previously
vol. in. (n.s.'I
190
HOUSES.
described.
which tinting
is
done,
is to
wash
draw with a pencil lines about a \ inch apart select the tint tool to make the proper width of line, and follow the
of Indian ink, and then
;
L. L.
keeping the tool as near of an even depth as possible the whole length then make another bine below it as far from the first as wanted, and so on till the whole space is lined. The several pencil marks, as they
first
pencil
mark
carefully,
Taps Overflow Baths and their Fittings Waste Pipe Safety Trays Precautions in Hot Water Systems Randall's Patent Taps Concluding Remarks.
Pipe using
HE
i
time, simple
fitting
up a
bath,
is to
use either a
my
I find another process better adapted wants, although it is not quite so pro-
strong tinned iron one, or a cast iron enamel japanned one (see Pigs. 13 and 14), letting the
taps come along the side or foot of the bath. hole must be made in the bottom of the bath
of tinned iron, for the
A
if
it
and transfer it by the potash-alcohol process to the space on the block I wish to tint, and then cut it. This may be quite unprofessional, but it is easier, and I can do a better job. The transfer must be made before any cutting is done on the block, or the pressure in copying would damage lines already made. Many dealers in drawing materials keep ready ruled paper for drawing purposes, and a supply of this of different depth Sky tints are hard ones of tint is very useful. for the amateur to make, and are made in many different ways by different engravers. On page
349, Part 8
is
made
shows a plug and washer for this purpose it is made sound to the bath with red lead cement, and a lj-inch lead or iron pipe connected to it, and carried outside the house. There should be no trap in this waste pipe (it is
Pig. 15
;
is
a fruitful source of stoppages), if the waste pipe carried into a rain-water cistern head outside,
it
this will
be
sufficient
(New
Series) of
Amateur Work,
are several specimens of cloud work, under the head of " Magic Lantern Slide Painting," which
trapped at the bottom, which it mostly is. If no rain-water pipe is near, carry the pipe down the wall, and let it empty over an open grating. An overflow pipe
the rain-water pipe
is
Such specimens will be found in abundance on every hand, and more can be learned by a study of them than in pages of description so I will not attempt to
will repay the beginner's study.
;
Drlll Clamp.
2 feet of
To make
drill
clamp, take
less,
be put in the bath this should be from the top. This pipe can be jointed into the waste pipe (Pig. The bath must be kept high enough to 16). clear the pipes unless they go below the floor. The cast iron bath is, plain painted, about 2 2s. for a 5 feet 6 inches bath or japanned, 2 10s. If something better is wished for, the
must
also
bar
iron,
1} inches by \ inch or
it
bath
17
may be
bend
it
up
in a different
manner
Pig.
around
and 18 are
The
Take a |-inch rod, 14 inches long, make \\ inches bend in the middle, and turn up hooks at the ends. Over
the upright rod of the
drill.
worked by
having porcelain studs, with " hot," " cold," " and waste " on them (Fig. 18). This, of course, is a much more expensive way than the one previously described, and more trouble to fit up ;
the reader must be guided by the depth of his pocket. It is usual when the bath is fitted up in this way, and is placed over any room of
bear
down
as
drill.
English
Mechanic.
consequence, which
is
HOUSES.
191
called a
of a lead tray, in
steam that might seriously injure the boiler. Another accident that sometimes happens is the expansion pipe freezing. It will be obvious to
the
dullest
understanding, that
is
is to carry it into the waste pipe from the bath but this is a plan I do not recommend in fact, it is a very bad plan, for if the waste pipe gets choked up, and the bath should overflow, the safe would not be of the slightest use therefore always carry the pipe from the safe distinct from the waste. This is no fanciful objection, as I had a case in point, only a few weeks ago, in a gentleman's mansion. Another
;
;
keeps generating, the ultimate result will be a "bust up," as our American cousins would
call
it.
!
Yes
some one
says,
you ought
to
have put a
is
Well, that
a very
good precaution to take, and I have nothing whatever to say against it but even safety
;
the waste,
is
that
when
the plug
in the
But the plan I am going to recommend does away with the necessity of putting a valve on the boiler. That is, by the use of a^Randall's patent tap as
a draw-off for the kitchen or scullery
;
this tap,
part of
it
is
;
then
if
the safe
is
not
flat
some
and has
to
and be
as I have
probably the best hot water tap in the market, was designed by Mr. Eandall, a civil engineer, of Belsize Park, Hampstead, at whose house a fatal explosion occurred, which caused that gentleman to study the question of taps, and
led to the invention of the tap bearing his
word or two of advice in ease of an accident will not be out of place. Supposing that on turning a tap which should supply hot water, none is forthcoming, it is to be presumed that there is no water in the
still,
name.
Fig. 19
is
a sketch of
it,
and Fig. 20 a
It will
be seen, on glancing at the sectional view, that it is a lever tap, and that the valve is opened by pressing down the handle when the handle is
;
cistern
the cap,
o,
in.
down on the
Now,
it
will be easily
This
is
not a
difficult
job to remedy
apply a
little oil,
and work it up and down a time or two, go all right till it sticks again, which with some ball taps is a frequent occurrence. The best ball tap I know of is Goslin and Brown's patent. I can say, in their favour, that
when
it
will
regulated
The strength of the spring can be by means of the cap. To set the tap
they
are
though seldom out of order, and I have never known one stick. The manufacturers are, I believe, Messrs. Warner and Sons, Cripplegate, London but they can be had of most ironmongers or plumbers. Another thing to remember is, that if the fire has been lighted some long time before the water is found to be gone, it is not advisable to turn cold water into the boiler whilst hot the fire must be let out, as the cold water coming suddenly into a, perhaps, red-hot boiler, would create a body of
;
;
unscrew the cap little, then screw any up one turn, and tighten the set screw extra pressure will then open the tap, and allow the steam or water to escape, thus forming a very efficient safety valve, and being constantly
to suit the pressure applied,
till
in use,
is
when
;
required.
are worth
in
the
other taps
fact, too
them.
praise of
of waste,
must be held all the time, and One of cannot be left turned on. the tap
as the handle
192
these taps will be
HOUSES.
;
enough, and that should be fixed as near the boiler as is convenient. To enable the water to retain its heat as long as possible after the fire is let out at night, so that the water may get hot quickly
was cased in wood, and packed with felt the fire had been out two days, but the water was still very warm. Thus, though not absolutely essential, the covering in of the cistern and pipes, where practicable, makes a better job.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES. TINNED IRON BATH. FIG. 14. CAST IRON BATH. FIG. 15. WASHER AND WASTE. FIG. 16 DIAGRAM SHOWING CONNECTION BETWEEN WASTE WITH FIG. 17. BATH ENCASED IN WOOD PIPE AND OVERFLOW PIPE. LEVER ARRANGEMENT OF TAPS. FIG. 8. SET OF BATH TAPS AS ABOVE.
I3
.
FIG. 19.
RANDALL'S
TAP.
FIG. ZO.
-SECTION OF SAME.
it
is
usual to
cover in the
being a non-conductor of tank and pipes cools very the in water the heat, In one instance I opened a cistern that slowly.
In concluding these papers, let me say that though I have tried to be as clear as possible in my explanations, yet there may be details left out some, perhaps, that I have not thought it worth while to take up space with, and some perhaps inadvertently. Should this be the case,
;
fault in I can only say that I will rectify this " Amateurs in Council."
193
A SIMPLE
By
BEDROOM
OVERMANTEL.
ALEXANDER MARTIN.
is,
it complete. The general appearance be seen in Fig. 1 where two shelves are fixed one above the other, the lower one being just a few inches up from the mantel-shelf. it
to
make
is to
have an overmantel in a bedroom, but that is generally because of the expense such a luxury would entail. The
to
brackets support the lower, and two pillars support the upper shelf. The three panels are filled with plush, velvet, Japanese paper, Lincrusta,
Two
Anaglypta, or any
subject
of
this
article
is,
the
irregularities
may
FIG
that
if
Shape of
be,
back.
labour be not included in the cost, as it when making a thing for oneself, the whole will not amount to more than about a couple of shillings. This is not much to spend
never
is
and forms a satisfactory finish. This, howbe fully^explained later on. If there is a gas jet on the mantel-shelf, it will not be interfered with at all, as the
ever, will
on such a little article as this bedroom overmantel is and being rather uncommon in its
;
appearance,
it has a unique look that is quite interesting in these days, when the chimneypiece must have its three bevelled mirrors
above
underneath the lower shelf. To begin with the actual making : the whole is built upon the back board. It is in one piece, the length of the width across the jambs ; in this
194
ease
is
4 feet
its
6 inches
long,
and f
1 1
inch,
thick.
At
highest part
it is 1
foot
inches;
and as
this width is not to be had in ordinary white wood, the board must be jointed to obtain this width. In Fig. 2 is shown
1 foot 3 inches long by 5J inches wide, and inch thick, with a hollow, or " cavetto," as it is called, worked on the front and both ends,
as in Fig.
3.
The
first
or lower shelf
is
how
is
and 4f
and particulars
will
be of service to some,
these lines.
shaped as shown
at least, of those
who read
Dress up the lower edge of the back board, and draw a centre line, as shown by dotted
line in Fig. 2.
brackets are inch thick, and should be shaped neatly and cleanly. The upper
shelf is supported
The
full length, as
already
so that
mentioned,
is
4 feet 6 inches,
JkbudlidV
1 1
the
makes
2 feet 3 inches
two
centre line.
inches.
FIG. 7.
TORUS
BEAD AND
LIST.
//
FIG. 6.
PIG. 3.
MOULD-
FIG.
MOULDING
ON EDGE OF SHELVES.
ING ON BASE.
at
be there drawn, and the horizontal portion a also drawn parallel with the bottom
it.
is
1^ inches, and
edge, and 9 inches distant from curves at the end are then drawn
The
in, either
by freehand
or, if that
This base is 1 inches high by inch thick, with a " cavetto " worked off its upper corner, as shown in section in Fig. 6. It being planted 1 foot 4| inches from the centre line, and on, in one Ions' strip, all the length of FIG. 5. TURNED i a .. at d 1 foot 8 inches from the bottom pillars sup- the overmantel, and mitred at eacn end, it edge e and f being 1 foot 6| inches and PORTING UP' should be cut away to allow the brackets PER SHELF. 1 foot 10 inches, respectively, from the to fit in. same place. The full distance to g, the highest Our overmantel is now ready for covering point of the back, is 1 foot 1 1 inches, and with with enamel white, cream, pink, sky blue, or these sizes indicated, the various curves are any of the pretty tints which are so easily drawn by freehand to coincide with them. obtained. After each of the pieces is This being done, the two shelves are prepared, well coated and finished, the panels are filled
planted round.
be brought into requisition. At a distance of 1 foot 7 inches from the centre line the horizontal portion begins to rise to point
b,
shown in which is drawn about half full size. After the shelves have been fitted in their places, they should be taken off, leaving the back board quite clear and flat. The positions the panel mouldings will occupy should then be marked off, and the base
of the turning are
members
5,
Fig.
which point is 1 foot 3 inches from the centre line, and 1 foot 4 inches from the bottom edge. At c the greatest distance is
&
'
,-,,;,
A CARRIAGE JACK.
back board, the spaces, of course, having been left untouched from the marked
in on the
195
with
little
waste of material.
Of course
all
lever
Whatever material is used, the colours ought to be such as will harmonise with the colour of the
wood. When this is glued fast, a little torus bead and list, as shown in Fig. 7, is prepared, with a check off one side, as shown, to overlap This the edge of the material in the panel. moulding mitred round the panels, it is taken off and enamelled the same colour as the other wood. When dry, the various portions are glued fast, and further secured by means of a
needle-point here and there.
supported by a pillar which in turn stands upon a pedestal or base. Now, to start at the lowest
the base had to be considered. This might have had three legs, after the manner of a tripod, and perhaps that would have been the best way to make it, but it would have entailed too much labour for my fancy, or it might have
part,
consisted of a plain
flat
The
shelves being
next
little
screwed
in their
places,
the
its
whole
place.
is
A
and
the best
means
it
for fixing
it
to the wall,
keeping
on the ground, or with three or more short legs affixed to its under surface. Then the size of the base board had to be thought of. If it was too small there would be a danger of the whole apparatus tumbling over, possibly taking with it the trap, if it happened to be supporting the axle when a wheel was off. If, on the other hand, it was too large, it would be waste of material, and might look uncouth. It would be
better, however, to err
CARRIAGE JACK,
By
J.
on the side of largeness, would be much harder for a base to look too large than too small. I happened to have
as
it
L.
DWTER,
B.A.
NE
in
1 were
made the base. It acts very well, but making another, I think I would have
if
it
magazine as Amatettk.
it
Work
is
that
Now
we
There are so many things to be considered whether the parts are mutually balanced, whether each is strong enough for the strains which it has to bear, whether the structure when complete will not look top-heavy or lop-sided these and a
its
construction.
inches thick.
square, I
the sides, and \\ inches from them, thus having the two pencil marks \\ inches apart. I then
multitude of other considerations harass the designer who would have his work a success,
sawed along these lines for a distance of 9 inches from one end, and with a chisel removed the
This operation made a space \\ inches wide and 9 inches long, in which the lever handle afterwards worked. Turning now to to the base board, I made a
Eesthetic
and
practical points of
For
instance, I
wanted
to construct a simple
my
Polo
cart, so
inches in
mortise or rectangular hole 1\ inches by \\ its centre, the length of the mortise
My friends
had jacks in their yards, but they were either made of iron, or were too heavy, or
too complicated for
being across the board. I then cut a tenon on the lower end of the pillar, so as to fit the mortise in the base board. This was easily effected by simply cutting a j- inch from each side of the pillar, leaving a shoulder to abut
against the base.
196
A CARRIAGE JACK.
and mortise, I put them number of good wedges
make
all as
firm as possible.
all this
One end is hooked something an eagle's beak, but much less the object of the hook being to prevent the axle slipping It would be off when the carriage is raised.
2 inches deep.
like
;
well
if
knew
that
when
which I
and should be bound with iron or some other metal. Five inches from this end a
is
f -inch hole
made
one of the slats of an iron bedstead, and nailed one end to the lower end of the pillar, turning up the base board
iron,
hoop
work
is
in.
The
handle
to
rounded
taken
of
off.
Apiece
chain,
light
inches
such
as is used
long,
and found
in
no
difficulty
inches long,
may
driving
be fastened to the
lower side of the a handle with
staple
ching.
Having
about
inches
way
that
it
was
the
parallel
to
to
turned
it
up
complete
which
it is
to
occupy
use.
end grain of Passing it up to the pillar and the base. through the space prepared for the handle, I drove two more nails down through the iron and into the pillar again turning the iron sharply, over I brought it to the end of the base board again, and fastened it with a couple of nails. I then bent the iron along the under surface of the base so that the two ends met and were fastened together with nails driven through them and up into the pillar. Thus there is a strap of strong hoop iron forming an endless band to unite and keep in their relative positions the base and pillar. The handle is a piece of deal 2 feet 4 inches long. \\ inches thick, and
nails driven into the
;
two more
rounded end being higher than the horizontal position, and the place marked as nearly as possible where the pin passing through would strike the hole already bored in the handle. Or a better plan might be to omit
may be put
till
this stage,
when
the
hole could be bored right through pillar and handle at once. An iron pin f inch thick and
4 inches long, with an eye at one end, could be secured to the handle or pillar with twine or a light chain, and would act as a pivot on which the handle could work but if the jack is used for one carriage only, a bolt fastened permanently
;
to raise the
We are
now
able
of our jack,
but we
A CLOTHES SPRINKLER.
and with this object a is hooked at one end, and the other end being turned up square is
require to keep
it
197
raised,
A CLOTHES SPRINKLER.
By
U. J. W.
driven into the base board in such a way that the iron rod stands nearly parallel to the pillar with the hooked end up, inviting the chain to
aHE drawings
show a clothes sprinkler, which I have just invented. I have shown it in side elevation and
engage
firm
in
it.
A
to
staple will
make
its
position.
An
alternative
plan
idea as to
how
it is
constructed.
The material
would be
have a chain stapled to and long enough to reach the end of the handle where there is a hook to
of the base board,
it.
the end
should be tinned
receive
which forms the body, has a " lap " or " lock " seam, as desired
cylindrical tube
The
and I trust that what I have written will enable any of my readers to follow in my steps and make a
The
entire affair is
shown
in the figure,
it
must
of
prevent
The handle
is
^Bccty of Sprinkler
FIG. I.
METHOD
highly
couple of coats of
;
life
and very simple carriage jack. oil paint would extend its very much and if ash could be got easily,
efficient
much
the
The following
the
is
it
is
Linseed oil soap is made by saponifying with caustic soda, and precipitating the
salt.
then " clapped on " and soldered to one end of the body of sprinkler. At the other end of the body a tapered tube is mitred this can have a
;
soap with
parts
It
is
separated, dissolved in
blue vitriol and one part copperas is added as long as a precipitate forms. This is filtered out, washed and dried, and 8f ounces are applied with 1 pound quick drying varnish, and 5J ounces white wax. This is applied to the surface previously heated, and is baked in The high parts are touched up if necessary. with a bronze powder. As a simpler process, shellac the bust, and then gild it with bronze powder and varnish. The varnish is sold with the powder.
and is cut which shows the proper method of describing the required pattern of any mitre. At the end of tapered tube is soldered a waterpot rose these are made by machinery here (America), but a rose made like an ordinary English water-pot will suit admirably. It can be unscrewed for cleaning as often as required, and it will be found to do its intended work easily and quickly, a a are rings or washers made like Fig. 2, which are secured at places indicated by arrow heads, and a spiral spring is inserted between them, the end of spring being securely
"lock" or
1
like Fig.
soldered to lever b at
c.
198
A CLOTHES SPRINKLER.
Bottle
screw
of the spiral spring should be than body of sprinkler, so that it will work accurately, and should be made of not larger than No. 10 or 12 wire.
iV inch smaller
The diameter
are bosses or burrs, which are butted against each side of the leather washer, e, which is \ inch smaller than the body of the
d'
and d
sprinkler,
washer,
e,
d is \ inch smaller than the leather and d= is a trifle smaller than inside
f is a burr soldered to and g is a gutta percha or leather washer secured on upper side of burr, f, to prevent leakage through the lever hole (see
the lever
b,
diameter of washer, a.
FIG.
2. WASHERS. HALF
SIZE.
199
catalogue,
like,
and
you would
body of the sprinkler, as shown it can be bought at any hardware store for a small sum.
in the
The water cannot escape unless the lever, b, is when it will be found to flow freely and as soon as the pressure is taken off, the lever will resume its former position, and the
pressed,
because you think they are so useful, and then measure your apartment, and notice how the corners, projections, etc., of the various
water
is
the same as that in an engineer's oil-feeder. This little instrument facilitates the " damping
down
"
of
clothes
to
very
great
extent,
compared with the old fashion way of sprinkling with the hand, and it is an improvement on the " Heathen Chinee," who fills his mouth full of water, which he expectorates on the clothes as they require it his method is rather an unpleasant one, and, to make the best of it,
;
would stick in the way of moving humanity if you adorned your room with them. It is because I have understood this fact for some time, that I have designed the writing desk here illustrated. Look at Figs. 1 and 2, and in the former you will see the article entirely closed, and in the latter entirely open that is, with the exception of the drawers. The opening is effected by two movements, the first being the pushing up of the revolving shutter and the second, the pulling out of at the top the front-shaped piece, which brings with it the
articles
;
writing flap.
When
the article
is
closed, this
is
flap is concealed,
The
Series),
joints
described in
Amateur Work,
Vol.
II.
(New
edge, between the top carcass and the drawers. Were the article to be joined firmly together,
so that
it
page 289.
2, it
would
my
design.
which
will
have
With regard
;
coming from
the back to the front, the old-fashioned bureau but with this, and other kinds, is an example
persons
be derived from it, is the desire of most who have but a limited space in which
been brought into position, two pieces of wood have to be drawn out, or else two brackets brought round to support it whereas in the present article nothing more is necessary to get the flap into position and to
after the flap has
the
rooms mainly inhabited by the middle were stocked with all the furniture the occupants considered of service, modern " Daniel Webster's " would find it very annoying and uncomfortable to live in them. When a lady sees a particular piece of furniture, and believes it to be a necessary article, if she finds
If the
classes
than to draw outwards, by means of shown, the front-shaped piece. Then again, in the bureau, etc., by reason of the space required for the flap to revolve in, no
support
it,
handle
as in
my
design.
I believe I
am
the
first to
No more skill is required to accomplish the completion of one of these writing desks than that possessed by the average amateur, and I
believe
it is
by
its
quite sufficient
at the plinth,
and praiseworthy.
appointed.
might
be.
it will be 31 inches and 4 J inches deep, and the f inch thick, and should be bevelled round The parts should be dovetailed top edges. together, and have a board sunk at | inch
Beginning
200
depth, which
into grooves
One corner
of this
fitted
to the opposite
I will
and half the plinth (minus the former) are shown in Figs. 4 and 3, respectively. To the plinth is screwed, from underneath, the main carcass, a general idea of which is presented in Fig. 5. The length of the bottom board is 30
inches, the width 18 inches; the height of the
and
The
7,
front board
must be
cut as
shown
in Fig.
as the thickness,
it is
through this opening that the flap passes. A board should be joined to the front and back
boards, as
the
lines in Fig. 7.
FIG.
I. DESK CLOSED.
FIG.
2. DESK OPEN.
height of the backboard 32J inches, and the same width as the front board. The drawers (for which, I dare say, no instructions will be
To
in
and and tenoned frames, which should be joined to the front and back boards, as in Fig. 6, in which diagram b represents a frame, and a the front or backnecessary,
as
will
they
be
dovetailed
board is joined inside two brackets, as 8, which must be the same distance apart as the length of the front opening Concerning the reason why we must have these
this
Fig.
more
latter on.
The
front
board
will
board. If drawers on each side are used, it will be necessary to have upright divisions in the middle of the carcass, as I show but if the drawers are made to open on one side only, do
;
2 inches distance from the front of the latter. Between the back and front boards, at the top, will be joined two boards (one on each side), with a little incising on them as ornament. The fitting in of these two pieces should be left until all the rest of the main carcass is put
away with
these
divisions,
A DAVENPORT WRITING
DESK',
of
WITH CONCEALED
which
will
fit
FLAP.
201
The top board will be 31 inches long, 19| wide, and about \ inch thick, and Tounded on its
inches
edges.
into
them two
looking-glasses,
The
a
back
will
be sur-
square
will
moulding
mounted moulding
by
but
must
be
borne in mind, that the front and back pieces of it must be canted on one side
in each, as in Fig.
9,
turned ornament.
The height
back
23 inches.
of the
will be about
The
insides
of
making those
perpendicuIf the boards
sides
lar.
in Fig. 12.
sides
These
Two
co-
thin
lumns will give us ornament for the front, where they should be glued they must be no
;
board, to
the
into
main
carcass.
be
thicker than
will
on the
it
slope,
and
of
to enter
and
small
thin
pieces
wood
(three of
which
will to
it,
triangular)
be be
to
come
with
board,
to
the top
Starting
glued on to
carcass.
form
F
FIG. 3.
i
receptacles
the
it
backC
a.
FIG. 7.
for ink-bottles
and
will con-
pens.
The
station-
and tenoned, with a board of thinner stuff framed with it, and should be
dovetailed to
sides
the
top
of the
ery rack should be SHOWING HALF THE PLINTH. FIG. 4. ONE CORNER OF BOARD TO BE JOINED INTO PLINTH. FIG 5- -A GENERAL VIEW OF MAIN made separately, CARCASS. FIG. 6. METHOD OF JOINING DIVISIONS BETWEEN DRAWERS and either glued in TO THE BACK AND FRONT BOARDS. FIG. 7. SHOWING HOW TOP OF FRONT BOARD IS CUT. FIG. 8. SHOWING WHERE TO FIT BRACKETS or kept in position AS GUIDE FOR WRITING FLAP. FIG. 9. SECTION OF TOP BOARD, ETC. , FIG. IO THE BACK BOARD OF TOP CARCASS. FIG. II. SECTION OF by means of a MOULDING ROUND GLASS FRAMES. FIG. 12. SHOWING SIDE BOARD narrow strip of OF TOP CARCASS WITH GROOVE FOR REVOLVING SHUTTER. FIG. 13 HOW TO CONNECT THE WRITING FLAP AND TOP BOARD OF MAIN wood along the CARCASS. FIG. 14 PEG TO BE DRIVEN INTO EACH END AT BACK OF bottom board, just WRITING FLAP. FIG. 15. HANDLE FOR FRONT-SHAPED PIECE. in front of it. If
board is shown in Fig. 10. The necessary parts should be moulded as in Fig. 11, at the back
made according
of
to
:
design,
it
will
consist
the following
my
202
bottom board 28-|- inches long and 5 inches wide, a front board 28J inches long and 6 inches wide, a backboard 28 inches long and 7\ inches wide, two sides each 1\ inches long (at the back) and 4| inches wide, two divisions 28| inches long and 6 inches wide and 28| inches
long and 7 inches wide respectively, and nine
smaller divisions, the sizes of which can be
ascertained from the former.
BOOK
By
F. E.
REST.
TREBLA.
stand
Now we
make
this,
come
get a
To
number
of laths, either
\ inch
which is an admirable contrivance for the purpose, and displays great ingenuity and inventive talent on the part of the designer. It is so arranged that the whole of it folds up and fits into the base, so that it may be carried in the pocket without inconvenience. Great attention must be paid
pocket
HE
music
is
when
and
flatly
to the
on to a piece of canvas, and after fastening one or two knobs on the front, slip them into the groove before the bottom board To open this fully it will only be is fitted in. necessary to push it upwards and backwards, when it revolves through the other half of
close together
In Fig.
1,
is
is
made
in
two
parts, each
shown enlarged
in Fig.
may
the groove.
Weights
at the
is
now
It will be 26 inches
of
it
by 1J by f inches, otherwise it should be up, and a thin moulding glued on in front. The two interior ends of b b (Fig. 1)
9 built
be lined
on top with ornamental leather. The front edge must be canted or rounded off both flap and the shaped piece are shown in Fig. 13,
;
should be rounded in order to allow of their being folded over on the pivots, as shown. At m (Fig. 3), a socket is cut with a chisel half
in
which a
is
The The
hinged on to the bottom board. by the two brackets shown in Fig. 8, and it comes exactly under the bottom board of the top carcass. The flap, etc., might be \ or 1 inch thick. A handle (Fig. 15) on the shaped piece will catch behind a slot in the main carcass front board, and will To prevent the flap coming also secure the flap. right out, have an iron peg in the thickness of each end ; and it is to allow these to be put in
latter is
last.
Drawings or Diagrams for Lantern use Take thin transparent sheet zylonite or celluloid and wash with water. "When dry rub with fine whitening, Drawings or writing can to remove all grease.
through the base, and is for the purpose of receiving the end of the strip of wood next described. It should be carefully done, so that the fit may be somewhat tight, as this tends to keep the rest rigid. Next, six strips of wood will be required, each 9 by by full inches. Four of these must be rounded at one end, and the other two rounded at both ends. "When they have been planed and sandpapered, take one which has been rounded at both ends, and two which are rounded at one end only, place all the rounded ends together, the doubly rounded one being underneath, and screw them together at the end with a thin brass screw, countersinking the head, and not letting the point be seen on the other side. Do the same to the other three pieces of wood, and lay them on one side. The next step to be taken is to make the backbone, a, shown enlarged in Fig. 4.
now be placed on the zylonite as easily as on paper, and tracings made. Clamp the finished work between two
glasses,
this are 9
by
by J
inches,
203
of
good
thickness.
In
screwing
any parts
countersunk, so as not to come above the level All that is now required is to of the wood.
of
screw the other end of the doubly-rounded strips wood to the top of the backbone and if the
;
fig 2
A
A
o
o
^
X
I
o
Sr
-i ;>
Fl C.3.
V
FIG.*.
1
FIG. 5
it,
in which the d and f, should now be placed inside the backbone a, f being behind d, and pivotted (d at the top and f at the bottom) with those long wire pins used by cabinet makers and as each piece is ^ inch thick, they will, when folded up, come flush with the surface of a. The next thing to be done is to fasten each half of the base to the bottom of the backbone. This is done by short brass screws
of
inch,
fitting
The
pieces,
them inside the base. The numbered arrows in Fig. 1 show how this 1st. The middle bars are folded over is done. the horizontal ones. 2nd. The upright bars are slipped out of their sockets, and placed over the other two. 3rd. The three bars are brought down over the backbone till they are held by the moulding in front of the base. 4th. The two halves of the base are folded up over all,
no
difficulty in folding
204
and the stand becomes as in Fig. 5, ready to be put in the pocket. To anyone who has never
seen one,
abstruse,
this description may seem rather and the apparatus complicated, but a
AMATEUR WORK
PRIZE SCHEME.
VIII.
few minutes' study of the designs will soon make the working of it clear and I have endeavoured by means of the arrows, which are numbered in their order, to make the working of it as simple as possible. It may be made of walnut, which will look very well if it is French polished, or any other wood that takes a good polish. The one now in front of the writer is made of some foreign scented wood, which scents the hands every time it is touched. If any dimensions or particulars are not quite plain enough to any reader, I shall be happy to answer any communications in the "Council" columns.
;
A PRIZE OF ONE GUINEA will be given for the best specimen of REPOUSSE WORK IN
BRASS.
will be given for
IX.
AMATEUR
PRINTING.
X.
A PRIZE OF ONE GUINEA will be given for the THREE BEST SUGGESTIONS FOR HOME DECORATION that may be carried out
by an amateur mechanic.
RULES.
(1).
(2).
Picture Framing.
and by an amateur is meant a workman who does not earn money by the particular class of work in which he competes. MS. must be written on one side only of the paper, and drawings must be on separate paper. Each sheet of MS. or drawings to have the name and address of the competitor clearly written on the
of bond fide amateurs
;
"Why
back.
The Publishers
any MS.
All articles in this competition must be received not
later
At an army
meagre
resources, one
il
faut,
Each
Salisbury Squake, London, E.C. article must bear the name and address of the
competitor, and the
number
as a model for
more
(5).
which he enters.
Competitors desiring the return of their articles
(except
MS.) must
is
If
but a closer inspection showed that, though carefully chosen, much of the beauty was due to
the appropriateness of the settings. The etchings
the article
label
must be
stamped
if
by
rail,
the
name
Every care
(6).
were enclosed by a mat 3 to 5 inches in width, beyond which was a strip of oak about 1 inch
wide, not varnished, but polished. If the etching
will be taken, but the Editor does not hold himself responsible for articles sent in.
The
Prize op
Two Guineas
PAl'EK
DESCRIBING
confess that I
this
am
por the best written FlTUENTS POR EOOMS. 1 must disappointed with the result of
I
competition.
expected
that
in
readers
ideas
of
Amateur
have a
Work
upon
would
be
rich
and
!
suggestions
this subject,
lot of
but, alas
for
the vanity of
human
only entered the lists, and Mr. Wm. Priday, Wilmslow Eoad, Withington, Manchester, takes
the
prize with an excellent paper,
which
will be
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
T.
205
..f One Guinea for the Best Lantern from Competitor's own Negative. To make amends for the want of interest in the last competition, the quantity and quality of the slides sent in for this competition were somewhat embarrassing, and rendered the work of judging no easy task. Every slide was put through the lantern, some of them more than once, and the award has fallen to Mr. W. Kitchen, 101, Bute Road, Cardiff, who
Pkize
Slide
can be said of any I have hitherto Been. They are made in two shapes, flat and semi-spherical, the price of either kind being Is.
The
fluous.
shown
viz.,
would be superasked,
I need only
it
add
that at the
price
a remarkably cheap piece of apparatus. There is one special advantage in the possession of such a tool, and that is that hardened lathe centres may be rapidly
12s. 6d., I consider
(1).
"
of
The
Tillage
Smithy,"
Somerset.
situated
in
the
village
Selworthy,
on 7J by 5 Ilford plate lantern slide reduced in camera on Cowan's bromide plate. This slide (for which the prize is awarded) has all the characteristics which, according to Mr. Andrew Pringle, are necessary in a good slide, viz.,
Negative
clear highest lights
with
details
good
general colour
of
(2)
image.
The
from Wombwell's " and (3) " Leopard from WombSpeaking of (2) and (3), Mr. Kitchen says " These were time exposures owing to dull light. and were only secured after an enormous amount of time and patience had been expended, owing to Over forty plates were exposed their restlessness. only about six proving good negatives, the rest spoilt through movement." Following very closing on " The Village Smithy," comes a slide by Mr. A. A. Moncrieff, 145, High Street, Portsmouth, entitled "A Frosty Corner." In fact, so good is it, that I have decided to award an extra prize of half a guinea in this case. It is printed by contact on Thomas' lantern plate, developed with hydroquinone sodium hydrate. Mr. L. Egberts had a set of three Swiss scenes The slides sent by Mr. that deserve high praise. J. Winterbottom and Mr. F. West, also deserve
well's."
:
CLOSED.
jfjvfi=riTta=fcaL
honourable mention.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
JJy
TDE EDITOR.
E. Leeson, Scientific Instrument Maker,
J.
NGINEEBS' TOOLS.
Engineer and
Chapel
Street,
Mr.
means
of
specimens of his non-leaking pocket oilcans, adjustable wrenches for screw-taps, and a drilling attachment for slide-rest. Having given them a fair test,
I can with confidence
me
readers of
oil-cans
recommend each and all of them to Amateur "Work as cheap and reliable tools. The
a long-felt want. In the ordinary kind of pocket
The price of a medium sized tap wrench is and small size 2s. 6d. Mr. Leeson also states that he will be pleased to quote amateurs specially low prices for the execution of any work,
wrenches.
3s. 6d.,
fill
when
it
improved form introduced by Mr. Leeson, there are no loose parts, and the method by which the oil is retained is perfect. They can, in fact, be carried in the pocket with perfect safety, which is more than
to be mislaid, but in the
The Photographic Art Journal for January 24th has an and instructive paper by Mr. Walter E. Woodbury, entitled "Notes on a Simple Positive Transfer Process." All who are interested in Mr. Bennett's papers "Hints on Decorating the House by Photography''
interesting
to.
VOL.
III. (N.S.)
206
AMATEURS IN
E.
COUNCIL.
assured they will not be disappointed.
Battery Wanted.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
OPEN TO
AL,Tj
READERS.
The No. 2 'Model Printing Press' is really an astonishing machine, so comcarbon and one zinc plates. The solution plete yet simple. That you may judge is chromic acid, 3 ounces water, 16 for yourself, we send a specimen of outounces sulphuric acid, 4 ounces. Add work, and think'you will have to con-
Attwood (page
155).
You
;
can
Reader of " A. W." -Your letter, You do not eay the size of the com- for the Model,' especially as we had which came to hand too late for me to partments, but assuming that they are no previous knowledge of printing and do more than acknowledge last month, 3 inches wide and 3 inches deep, put in it would gratify us if our experience is very interesting, inasmuch as it shows two glass cells, cut from the lower part could be made known extensively for me that you are making the most of of a 12-oz. medicine bottle (see page the benefit of brother amateurs. The your opportunities; and I venture to 336, Vol. II., New Series, for method experience named above led us naturally for other things menpredict that some day you will make of cutting) 4 inches high, allowing 1 to 'go in your mark. I quite appreciate your inch above the deck the carbon plates tioned by you but we must say we were rather disappointed in one indesire to have all articles in Amateur can be 4J inches by 2J inches, and J Work so fully and clearly written that inch thick. Zinc same size J inch stance, as we failed to receive an answer to our letter to the even " dunderheads " (to use your own thick rubber-stamp fix thin pieces of dry wood,
' ; ' ; ; ;
stream.
fess that, as
first trial, it
speaks well
.
them
detail
at the
same time,
it
would involve
if
soaked in paraffin wax, between carbons and zinc; connect carbons by a clamp
of thin sheet-brass; solder wires to zinc
a great
deal of
reiteration
every
and brass
H. Martin and Co., Having read the method of rubber-stamp making described in Amateur Work, we concluded it would
manufacturers,
Cork.
occasion
for instance,
if
every writer
binding screws
zinc to carbon
who mentioned a
joint,
carbon to
we could
manufacture
ABC
making such joint or if a to drive screw with cog-wheels a small of French polishing one on motor, and a larger on screwwas given whenever that process was shaft. If you have not got motor, I recommended, you can, perhaps, imagine can recommend Mr. G. Bowron, Electhe dreary pages of uninteresting matter trician, 93, Praed Street, London, W., that I should have to serve up for who will supply you at a very reasonthousands of indignant readers. The able rate. Electron. of the wrk is more easily and Printing and Rubber-Stamp Making. readily learnt from such a work as
method
full
description
no answer. Could you kindly give us the information required, or through your influence obtain it from the manufacturers themselves ? We shall send them an order at once on receipt of their favour.
tunately received
"Every Man his Owh Mechanic." If Ellis and Co. (Ladybrand, you do not already possess this book, I Free State, South Africa) write so should recommend you to get it, as it feelingly in appreciation of our efforts explains all you can want to know of to convey an unbiassed opinion of tools
these
detail
We are ordering some more type from the Model Printing Press ComOrange pany shortly, and shall order some
specially for rubber stamp-making."
Many
supplying
enquiries firm
have
respecting the
you
for
matters.
Your second
outfits
we
occasion,
letter,
their
making, but they have disappeared No doubt from the address given.
more
concerns
to give
all
firms in
whom
amateurs
'
may
entire confidence.
They say:
"We
place
Mr. M. Linder, 170, Fleet Street, London, E.C., would be able to supply
you.
Photographic Camera. Reader." I have some of the Model Printing Press Co., papers in preparation on the construcall enquiries by post; but in urgent and we cannot do otherwise than ac- tion of hand cameras. I should advise cases, and where a stamped envelope is knowledge your useful aid to informa- you to try your skill on the construction enclosed for reply, I am always willing tion, at the same time giving great of one of these instruments. The articles to oblige, and as a matter of fact, a credit to the above-named firm and shall appear as early as possible.
subscribing to the magazine. It would be rather " a large order " to answer
'
nominal
cost
of
"A New
if all
firms mentioned in
trustworthy as the
hope to have pany and the Britannia Company (of is some papers on household sanitary whom we should have known nothing be able to make a very satisfactory telematters from an Associate of the were it not for Amateur Work, scopic dining-table, and your request for Sauitary Institute. Your request for Illustrated), and give such good value a paper has been handed to one of my a handy tool cabinet shall have atten- for money, none need be afraid to place staff, who has a practical knowledge of tion. tbeir money in their hands, and rest the subject.
when
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Repairing Brass Instruments.
the saw-table.
to
I
207
do not know where you can procure tools for repairing band instruments. I believe the makers get them made by tool makers to their own
H. A.
L.
my
lathe
well.
in this
I
worked
had a fret-saw fitted here, especially the articles on furniture, though I have not had time to make manner, and cannot give you more any myself. I have heard of a subit,
;
but
a sharp
'
bathai,'
or
carpenter, to
designs,
to
suit
their
own make
in the
of
could
instrument.
do a
little
way
ings.
manage with
"H.
and draw- designs, and getting quite a profit at the celling off, which is usual out here "I was much in- on being transferred, which occurs about
every three years.
readers of
tubing.
The dents
tubes of
the
in the
bell
Burton (Dulwch, S.E.) I am now converting one into use for " Could any of your readers on beck-irons, grindstone, polishing wheels, etc., and writes give me, through your valuable paper, etc., using a bright-faced hammer, and should be glad myself with a few useful plaus for building a model of a screw tapping very gently. Many bruises can hints. It certainly makes a very cheap steamer about 3 feet long or, if you be pressed out with a piece of rod-iron piece of machinery when converted, as think it would use up too much room fixed in the vice but let all pieces of they can often be had for a few in your paper, I should be glad if he rod-iron that you put down the tube9 be shillings. I purchased three in one lot would offer his address, so that I could quite rounded at the ends, and quite at Ss. each, all complete with stands, correspond with him myself. I should smooth, or they will mark the instrutreadle, etc., in good working order. say I have plans for the engines, so ment worse than the bruises. I am converting one into use, and can
larger
instruments are
You
see many uses for the others. Any of You cannot your readers having use for one can
have a better than that described, I tbiuk, in Part 2 (New Series), Amateur
Hydraulic Motor.
" writes " I shall be very thankful for any help in the following
".
Work
that
i9,
if
you
hare
gas.
have one of mine at cost price, 8s. I take this opportunity of thanking you for the many valuable hints I have
Blaney
:
which received through your valuable work uses benzolioe, and is self-acting, will Amateur Work and as I am an do first-rate. It is a capital lamp for any amateur at many arts, I have found it blow-pipework. You would, of course, most useful indeed, I think that use a blow-pipe to fan the parts again, without advice from Amateur Work and the polishing would be done by some of my experiments would have means of emery cloth, crocus powder, been I hope shortly to be a failure. and rottenstone and oil finally polish- able to relate some of my experiences, ing with dry rottenstone. L. L. for the benefit of your readers." [We shall be glad to hear from Utilising Sewing Machine Stand.
difficulty
made
an
hydraulic
September,
the
following
carefully
plans
it
described,
to
work properly.
the
literally
churned
"A Reader
You can
cost
fix
of
a
A.W." (page
lathe
;
you.
155).
En.]
give
water, which could not escape, though I made a larger opening than Cato recommended, and so it has remained ever since. I am told it ought to work, and have again returned to it
' '
and
:
will
be
will
much
help
obliged
with
2-inch
reader
defect.
who
me
to
bed 6s. ; or you could make an oak bed with iron plates on the top. By advertising, you might get a second-hand lathe cheap ; look in the Bazaar under " Mechanics." After you get the lathe, turn a spindle 6 or 8 inches long, and fix on it a 4-inch saw, by a nut and washer, with a carrier on the end of spindle for driving saw between lathe centres. The table can be wood, with an iron prong to fit into the rest socket. I am afraid the wheel will be too light for sawing, but you could put a heavier fly-wheel on the opposite end of the sbaft. Fix a 4-ineh grindstone on a spindle with nut and washer,
about
10s., iron
"I
the
following
method
of
copying fretwork designs, as I have often seen enquiries about this, and do
not
think
the
it it
"Demon" Cameras.
"
is
generally
carefully
;
known
out,
Would-be Amateur " writes Can any kind reader of Amatet/r Work
:
"
Cut
paste
design
into a
and
give
assist
book
it
will then
of the
using one
Detective
When
copying,
the
(which
have made several exposures, but cannot succeed in developing one plate. I should
Cameras, No.
I be pleased to correspond privately with
can be got at any saddler's) the raised parts cause the paper to be blackened,
while the recesses will not 'take' the
black.
anyone having had experience with the Demon,' and to whom I would
*
Any number of
it
be taken.
thin paper,
piece to give
out,
If the pattern is
Would-be Amateur
"
take his
Demon
it
Detective
more
and
and
The
tric
wanted.
The
on
the anvil,
induce the
my
is
own
invention,
strongest of
the smiths to
smash
useful
Your Magazine
heaviest
sledge-hammer.
it
208
AMATEURS IN
COUNCIL.
Violin Making.
J. E.
Machine for Shaping and Guttering Defective Battery Cell Leads for Stained Glass Windows. Geo. W. Pither. The fact that the Caunota. Try Messrs. Rhodes and zinc haB wasted so much during the Sons, Grove Iron Works, Wakefield, first week of your new Leclanche cell, would lead to the conclusion that the Yorkshire. If they do not keep such a circuit must have been completing it- machine, there is no doubt but that they would be able to make you one. They self, because in cells with saline solutions there is little waste of zinc in open are about the best firm in England for L. L. circuit, even though the zinc is not tools and machines.
You
is,"
for violin
making contained
published in
in
a series
was and
of
II.
Amateur
Work
(Old
These articles have been published in book form by Messrs. Ward, Lock and You can obtain wood and tools Co.
for
amalgamated. This completion of circuit may have been caused by the zinc having remained in contact with the porous pot, or it may have occurred outside the cell by the wires touching each other at a point where the insulation
is
Composition of Celluloid. This is A. (Crewe), page 10+. composed of gun-cotton, treated with
J.
tbe
work
Strett,
Wardour
72,
it
Altering Clock.
writes: "I have a which goes 50 hours only with one winding up. Can I make it go for 8 days by getting longer springs and if so, will you inform me where I can procure them, and their price." The answer most probably is " No "
various
chemical
agents,
"H. M. B."
striking clock
damp on
the
Take
the
this as
failure.
and with or without camphor oils, and in some cases gums and resins. Tbe details of manufacture vary according to the purpose to which it is applied. It can be made either hard or flexible,
or can be
;
made plastic or liquid it but tbe particulars given are not of sal-ammoniac; but I do not think can be made water-proof, acid-proof, definite enough. Is the clock English, If it this would explain the waste of zinc, and non-inflammable. Tbe manufacture French, German, or American ? which you say has been "very much is a patented process, and is not made be an American one-day (they usually indeed.'' With regard to the porous known.- Electron. will go 40 or 50 hours); there would
improbable, because
inferior
employment of
not be room to put springs long enough Phonograph. H. 0." has made a phonograph and strong enough to do S days' work. Their great from the instructions which have ap- If originally intended to go 8 days, it cells are quite common. defect is tbe want of peroxide of man- peared in Amateur Work, but has may be failing from some fault in the ganese, which should be almost equal experienced a difficulty in procuring barrel work (if it has a barrel, that is), winding to if in quantity to the crushed carbon thickness. which prevents you from requisite the tinfoil of
porous
" C.
is
life
it
seems
to
me
the
top, or
else
not long.
Should this be
it
you
will
may
explain
What
Is the
is
he has
style
foil
?
is
we
will help
you
if
we
can.
W.
:
but the excessive waste of zinc can only be explained by a completed circuit somewhere. A. T.
work
or
laid
" needle
too
sharp, or
tight
the
and smooth
roughness,
Photographic
"Camera"
little
writes
"Please allow me a
me much
by post, which, an entire stranger
Difficulties.
American
P. Bennett.
thirty-five
Is
Clock.
perfectly free
it
an eight-day or
from
If,
why
should tear.
in the
foil, if
bis reply.
He
hour?
lever or
?
pendulum?
valuable
assistance
is
strike or timepiece
" C. H. C." will send to Messrs. Lancaster, Colmore Road, Birmingham, or Mr.
Caplatze, Science Depot, Chenies Street,
considering that I
to
am
him,
is
exceedingly kind."
mav be required, and it is impossible to say from the question put, as it is so vague also, is it a new or old clock ?
Burton. One of my staff has what the foil is for a paper in hand on this subject, which the from at any rate, I have had some Vita. will meet your requirements. " latter place. Had I " C. H. C.'s address, How to Make a Phonograph. which him scrap a send gladly would I apReplies Devoid of General Interest. instructions Kyse. Full J. that he. might see the H. A. L. The old and new series of peared in Vol. VII. (Old Series), page has been used, so " C. H. 0." further says, " I have Amateur Work are quite distinct. All 363, and illustrations were given in a kind. The microphone papers tried covering tbe cylinder with wax, back Parts can be had. folding sheet. have not got the right have not yet come to hand, but " all but am afraid I G. White and B. E. W.If you it seems too soft. Can you wax of "; sort and waits him who things come to will send definite questions on points would be wax kind of what me tell one of the things will be an article on that you fail to understand, they shall
W. H.
I am always pleased to hear from my readers at any time, and to assist them
can only say, in reply, that wax not used with a brass cylinder it is a distinct arrangement about which I can
best." I
is
;
13.
as far as I can.
O. B.
Charlie.
.-
;:
29
(NEW
SERIES),
APRIL,
1891.
FIG.
I.
Side elevation
'4"
full
WARD, LOOK i
00.,
LONDON,
NEW
1^
/c
209
MMCTURE
By ROBERT M. BARKIRT,
3
Constable
FRAMES
'
Const
HE
in
interest
your
many
readers evince
to
write
on
the
above
sides, the latter for top and bottom. Proceed to make an ordinary Oxford frame, allowing projections at ends to be 3 inches from tenon cut (see Fig. 1); those projections should all be rounded, the etl'ect of this being observed later on. Having proceeded so far, now comes a rather tedious process but I would suggest that
former for
subject.
explicit;
I will endeavour
to
make myself
and
if
are as follows
Four
f inch,
The
articles required
pieces of
common
deal
"patience" be our motto, no matter how ungainly our efforts are. Obtain about ten dozen beer corks, wash them thoroughly in boiling water, so as to free them from sand, etc. and having done so, allow them to dry.
;
by
3 inches
by
(New
While we are thus proceeding, boil some and in order to ensure a greater amount of
add a handful of
salt to
glue,
heat,
the
the
water in which
Series).Part 29.
210
WAY TO MAKE AN
a
grocer,
INDEX.
the glue is prepared. This solution will give a heat equal to 220 degrees, while water only boils at 212 degrees. Now take each cork and cut
into six equal sections or circles \ inch in thickness, as at Fig. 2. Having treated all
it
and used
in
grapes.
six hours
the corks in this manner, take each circle and cut off about \ inch, as at Fig. 3, being careful
to preserve the clippings, as they will afterwards
unattached particles of rice and cork to fall off, also observing that no rice gets mixed with cork,
and
vice
versa.
Two
coats
of
copal
rice
varnish
completed
occupy a prominent position. Let us now make a piece of wood 6 inches by \ inch, to serve as a brush attach a row of the
;
pieces,
shown
similar to a, at Fig.
and as I have obtained a suitable picture seen from a distance it looks like the work of an Indian artist, the rice forming a beautiful background. I trust my description is explicit, and that some
total
shilling,
The
my
with
it).
manner; be careful to have a level surface. Our remaining circles we shall glue along front edge of frame, attaching them so as to slightly
cover
those
of
my
moments
remaining
of frames, and will derive as much satisfaction from the results as I have done.
all to be and firmly glued. Having completed this somewhat tedious process, the remaining portion of our work will,
perfectly upright
trust,
suggest to the
fertile brains of
SEMPER FIDELIS.
useful thing,
is
have just finished a frame similar in size to the measurements I have given, the design being as shown in Fig. 1. From a piece of cardboard I cut a diamond, measuring 3 inches in length and 1| inches in width, and having found that the length of this diamond, divided equally into the distance from E to F, and having also found that 3 inches (the length of the diamond) into this distance would give me space for eight diamonds, allowing the half diamond at each end to reach centre of g, I applied the same rule to remaining portions of frame, allowing each point of diamonds to meet in centre, as at h. Each projection (i) furnished space for one diamond, so that all
as at
v.
1
VERY
that one
is
in almost
any
business,
the
;
pensable index
There
is
index, yet
as a feat.
The way
inside
to proceed is as follows
Procure six
them
cardboard of
a piece
of
thin pliant
points lined
met
as
in centre.
With my
3,
pencil I out-
above,
and proceeded
line.
sufficient size to cover the paper. We then have a book of twelve leaves and a cover. On the first page mark off with a straight line, down the entire length, the breadth of the letters, say fths or f ths of an inch, then mark off for the letters. In this case we have supposed only
twelve sheets
now my diamonds
and Z) twenty-four letters two to a sheet, so that we must divide the full length of the line,
already drawn, into twelve equal parts,
part representing the space for two letters.
rice, I gave centre diamonds a good coat of glue, and covered The remaining vacancy along it with rice. sides, top and bottom, I also coated with glue, dusting in finely chopped corkwood or, a less tedious way, with cork dust,, obtainable from
each
to
in
is
which
to get
paper, cut
fold
it
it
and
into
the
number
of
parts
HOW
required,
first
TO ATTACH
may
AN ELECTRIC ALARM
be done in
TO A CLOCK.
211
up each
half separately.
HOW
takes to write.
Now,
at
each of the points on the lines where the spaces are marked, get a needle, and prick holes right
through the entire paper; we will thus have marked the spaces on every sheet in a few
it
is
intended to
can, with
no
or
moments.
expense,
time,
We now
first
at the top of
we
space
page,
we
make
each case exactly to the pricked hole from the edge of the paper, and so on until we get to the
last sheet, which, if
we have
all.
house clock. Of course clocks, like persons, vary infinitely some are large faced and small bodied, others small faced and large bodied, some all face and poor machinery, others with unpretentious faces and works hidden behind of the best quality and
;
"We now take the scissors and cut off the strips, cutting upwards till we meet the side cut on each page, the pricked holes forming a guide for the scissors All that remains now all the way up the page. is to put the alphabetical letters down the edge. By skipping the X and Z, we will have two on
not require to be cut at
by social philosophers, the rule in the case of mankind holds good the more self-assertive and noisy, the more doubtful. However, as we are not about to discuss a problem in moral philosophy, but one pertaining to natural philosophy, it is sufficient to draw
as
we
are informed
the
reader's
attention
to
the
fact,
that
as
each
will
sheet.
If
they are
pretty.
neatly
written in
and con-
look very
piece of
stouter
which
is
letters will
make
of
marbled paper
it
a finished
we shall require twenty-four spaces and as many leaves if more than one sheet to each letter, we will we
require a sheet for each letter,
and
we soon become
so
black jjplish on brass, for 1 ounce of nitrate of silver in a dish with 20 ounces of distilled water. In another dish mix 1 ounce of nitrate of copper with 20 ounces of
distilled water.
To
having a pendulum like a halfpenny fixed on a knitting needle. The motive force of this clock is in the weights, which are raised by chains or cords, and which move the machinery of the clock by their descending weight. An electric alarm attachment to this kind of clock can be Drill a small hole on each made as follows side of one of the weights, and by means of
:
two brass eyes, slightly smaller than the eyes fixed in window-shutters for the cords used
in
Now
fit
tightly
solutions together,
to each side of
remove the brass, and heat in an oven until the desired degree of
dip the brass in the liquid,
Fig.
shows the
drawn
at right
;
maybe
inserted
line, is
while
black
is
obtained.
shown
Shellac and borax boiled in water produces a good stain for floors. Builder and Woodworker.
now be
212
HOW
TO ATTACH
AN ELECTRIC ALARM
tightened,
TO A CLOCK.
easily
A very good thing is a bagatelle peg, or a piece of a penholder of hard wood reduce it in length to \ or inch, and drill a small hole through it lengthways, of the diameter of an ordinary steel knitting
with a non-conductor.
;
and
kept
if
tight
in
future.
(it is
a lathe
is
at hand),
W.
Next get a
Now
come
fix
a peg
A better
likely to
is less
be done with some pointed instrument, as the handle end of a file), and then hammered
is
haps 4 feet long, for an hour This can be temscale. porarily fixed on the wall, precisely behind the line of
the falling weight.
inserted.
If the eye
Upon
this scale
mark
Fig.
off
2,
the hours,
as
in
jammed
;
in
We have now to make the guides these can be made in a very simple manner, by using ordinary bell wire. The weight of the clock
will fall in a direct line
downwards, so that
is
all
which represents the work completed. For this purpose it will be as well to wind up the clock to the fullest extent. Then having wound up the clock, find by experiment the exact space the weight passes through in the first hour, and mark it on the wood, and so with
the scale, numbering the marks for convenience, and remembering that the spaces will not be the same all the
all
that
is
necessary to be done,
through the eyes in the weight. Knock two small nails in the wall, fasten the ends of the wires to them, and then fix the wires at the bottom, so that the weight may keep the two
wires just nicely apart there, as at the
top.
all
It will
1
JT+
fig.
the
way up
way down
;
if
good way of tightening the wires is to neatly plug the wall as near as possible to the body of the If the work is properly done clock. with a fine ^-inch plugging chisel, the holes need not be more than inch diameter; and provided the paper on the wall is cut and turned back during the operation, the paper can be replaced without the wall suffering in
A very
sary spaces
nega- be reached.
2. a, positive pole
b,
NOT INSULATED,
Should
chains
the
clock
to
have
the
attached
appearance.
driven in
fixed to
French nail must be each of the plugs, and the wire neatly
thin
weight, one pole of the battery can be joined to the works of the clock the other is fixed to one
;
it.
of the wires
slides
be fixed in a similar way, with this difference, that two screws should in this case be used with a hole drilled through each of them, close under the heads. The wire is passed through the holes, and wrapped once round the screw, so
as to catch
;
(marked
b,
in Fig. 2).
a letter clip, or metal book-marker, must be made. This can easily be done by soldering two pieces of tempered brass or watchclip like
3), so
The
line will
now
overlap
HOW
TO ATTACH
AN ELECTRIC ALARM
TO A CLOCK.
213
BBMmds.
C Disc.
Hammer
CMammerlever. OBammer.
0.10.
E Jftck which sets free the hammer lever cuid allows the oell to ring.
214
HOW
is
TO ATTACH
is this
:
AN ELECTRIC ALARM TO A
CLOCK.
The
clock
Suppose the
be
the proper
wire from the pole of the battery, exactly over mark on the scale then the weight, in the course of its fall, touches the clip. The
;
alarm of a very simple kind, which, perhaps, will be considered by the reader too unscientific to merit consideration. His experience, however,
was that
it
worked remarkably
with
well.
The
two
shellac
which it will be seen up to the present has been open, is now closed. The current passes from the one pole of the battery to the works of the clock, down the chain (chain, and not cord) supporting the clockweight, and then by the clip and guide wire
circuit,
30 B.
W.
G.
(the
clock-weight
is
The alarm assumed to be set when the wound or drawn up but the
;
upon the
wires,
reader will see that the alarm can be set when the weight is in other positions, during its descent. If, however, the weight is attached to the drum of the clock by catgut, the mechanism
will
position, or if they
the door,
they could be
adjusted
by The hour
be somewhat different. A simple method of adapting the above to this case, is to join a pole of the battery to the ends of each of the wires a and b (see second diagram, Fig. 2), but only one of the eyes will be insulated, as the one on the wire on which the clip is (c) the other (d) will not be insulated, but be a plain metal eye. The reason of this the reader will
;
hand wire was just raised sufficient to catch the hour hand when it arrived opposite the hour intended, but the minute hand passed over this wire without contact. The minute hand, every
hour, passed over the other wire (the minute hand wire at twelve o'clock), gently pressing it
down
for
the
moment
but
it
owing
to
the
elasticity
immediately rose
easily anticipate.
before,
now be
as
in Fig.
2.
on the pressure being relaxed. However, at six o'clock, when the two hands touched both wires, the alarm rang.
Whenever
clip,
if
the
being metal, should form a conductor, as may do, then the wire should be glued to a
piece
of
fine
cardboard,
or other insulating
eye
d,
e,
of the
The reader can make numerous adaptations above principle when constructing this kind of alarm he must remember that in
;
means employed, to prevent the circuit being The writer, however, did not find this closed.
necessary, as the enamelling of the dial acted
It will be well to see that the under part of the hands, which make contact, are
as an insulator.
winding the clock the weight must be raised to exactly the same height each time. In order to accomplish this, he had better fix on the clock a plate of metal or wood, with a small hole, c, through it (Fig. 2), through which the weight rope passes, so that when the clock is wound up, the weight will stop at the plate.
come
into
may
not be impeded.
Platinum wire, soldered under the ends of the hands of the clock for better contact, can be
used
if
desired.
The
involves no trouble.
opens
that
small screws.
the alarm goes off punctually to the minute, owing to the action of both hands. If preferred, one wire of contact can be used for the hour hand, while the other wire
is
The
writer had,
electric
fastened.
HOW
TO ATTACH
AN ELECTRIC ALARM
TO A CLOCK.
it
215
to the -works of the clock. The system depending upon the action of the hour hand only, is necessarily somewhat uncertain, within the limit of
on the hands
some moments, especially if the hour hand does not He truly over the hour it should
Again, take the ordinary striking clock, of
graduated
size
wheel
indicate.
somewhat similar
and description
woodwork
of the clock,
approached from the front by a glass door. This may be fitted with an electric alarm, which with a little adjustment will be found to work satisfactorily. In fact, it is constructed on the
be adapted, so that the wheel will not be desired to be fitted to a spindle of very different diameter than the one it was This, however, the originally intended for.
to the clock to
to.
Now,
wood,
g,
spring to
of course,
as
shown
in Fig.
7.
A block
springs,
of
same principle as the ordinary alarm clock. Suppose such a clock is to be fitted with an electric alarm, some trouble will be spared if the reader purchase, from a working clock-maker, the brass wheel marked with the hours, which he will see fixed on the hour hand pinion of the ordinary alarm clock, by turning which to the proper hour the alarm is set. ^The shape of this disc is shown in Fig. 6.)
may be
any obstruction
this
a,
block the
will
hand arriving
at the
well
known
which
it
may be
follows
:
brass wheel
on
the
it is
rising is to be six, the turned until the figure six marked exactly under the hour hand of the clock,
is
If the hour of
hour has brought round the nick with it, when a will then be allowed to make contact with b close the circuit, and the bell will ring. The wires, d e, pass out to battery and bell, connected in the usual way. The spring can be made of springy brass,
;
wound
up.
The
lever of
hammer
till
This plan is not so accurate, in regard to the alarm going off to the minute,, as a wire in connection with each hand; but this uncertainty
or defect applies to the
the time
is
alarm clock.
mechanics,
regulation.
If the
is
Though
circle,
hammer, which rings the alarm. The principle of the action can easily be understood by examining any alarm clock. This action being
ascertained, the following description will pre-
may be
too
much
delay,
or too
sent no difficulty.
Having procured
dial of the clock
to
take off
the
be adapted; if it is an ordinary white enamel metal or paper face, there will not be much difficulty, if care be taken, in fixing it on the lathe, and cutting a circle out of the centre large enough to admit
the metal wheel. If the work is carefully done, the face will not suffer any material damage.
time it is set to. To make this clear suppose the hour for the bell to ring is seven If the o'clock, set Fig. 7 under the hour hand. time next wheel set the at 7.15, bell now rinys
suit the
The outward appearance when finished will then be like the ordinary alarm clock face. Putting this aside, fit the brass circle on the
hour seven on the disc is slightly under the hour hand, and so on If, however, the bell to suit circumstances. a set hour, no trouble worth is fixed for mentioning will be encountered, as the disc can
so that the in advance, not
be set
till
ringing
is
found.
*216
found to work, take off hands, fix on and replace the hands. The interior mechanism will now be almost hidden.
face,
When
he can for a few pence procure an alarm clock dial or if he has broken the paint on the face of the metal dial, he can paste on it a paper face, which can be bought for Id. from any dealer in watchmakers' sundries.
;
V. How to Remedy
Conclusion.
of the works,
to
may be
how
remedy
pattern,
say hall or shop clocks, of the wooden round it is sometimes possible, if the wheel
remedy Slips.
When
it is
above mentioned cannot be used, to insert a between the hour hand and the face, marked, as the reader best can, to indicate the hours, which being fixed on a thin brass tube, moves on the hour hand
pinion;
gouges into another line, the accident may be remedied by what is called " plugging." With a suitable drill, or even a bradawl in some
cases, drill a hole large
space damaged.
the
hole
in
the face of
the
clock,
through which the hand pinions pass, being larger than necessary, and so allowing ample space for a tube being placed on the hour
pinion (see Fig.
to ring
If the clock is intended 8). always at a set hour, a plain nicked disc will do, with the sharp point of disc set under the hand to the hour required. Any
and whittle it round and of a size just large enough to fit tightly into the hole. Drive the plug firmly into place, and then by means of a very fine saw, which may be made out of an old clock spring (see Fig. 25), saw off as nearly
even with the surface of the block as possible. Be sure and not let the saw drag on the other lines of the block, for if you do it will keep you plugging all the time as a protection while
;
deformity of the face can be avoided by fixing the springs behind the dial, making a small hole at e, soldering to the top of the spring (a)
the stout wire
(d),
halfway through
it,
Another class of clock is the American metal alarm clock, a round band of metal enclosing face and works. In regard to this class the
writer
suggests
simple
device which
the
saw above it, and there will be no danger unless but you can you saw through the paper look out for the paper more easily than you can for the bare wood. Fig. 26 will show how
;
through the rim between the face and the glass, plug the holes
Drill a hole
Now, with a
is
chisel,
shave
off
with a non-conductor,
i.e.,
ivory, bone, or
hard
even with the rest of the If block, using great care not to go too deep. the job of plugging is well done, the cut will
it
Amateurs
a great
example (Fig. 9). Two wires can be so used for minute and hour hands care, however,
in
;
method
of
remedying
tools will
slips
being taken that the wires are insulated when A switch should be affixed
go too far sometimes in spite of care. Fig. 27 shows the block with the plug inserted ready to saw off.
source of
relief,
as the
to the clock, so that the ringing of the bell can be stopped when desired. This can easily be made by putting one in circuit for example
;
Taking Proofs.
proof of
it
When
the cut
is
complete, a
should be taken;
(Fig.
10).
is
When
the
;
handle
is
b,
on
a,
the
machine
out of circuit
when on
in circuit.
217
marble
or glass
block,
with the dabber until the surface of it is covered with ink, and place on it a piece of India paper
a little larger than the block. Over this, place a piece of cardboard, and go over it with a steel or ivory burnisher, or the handle of one of your
tools, if
smooth and hard, may be used. Rub smoothly over the whole surface, and then lift
to see if the print is
if
For enlarging or reducing a drawing for the it is a a pantograph is very useful simple and inexpensive instrument, and has been described several times in back numbers of this magazine. Machines are used a great deal for ruling, and are made to do all kinds of straight and circular tint they also have attachments for wave and fancy ruling, and a great variety of
; ;
up a corner
all
coming out
work
is
right
.,
not,
give
move
fine
the paper.
,. It pro-
in various ways.
It is
done
the
engraving will appear on the paper, and anything overlooked when cutof the
proof
with
lozenge
graver,
by two cuts
ting
may be
But
well
;
completed
or
at opposite angles.
corrected.
after a cut is
work
it
so
the engraver
fig zsPaper tarn, toplace over Mock when, scaving o/fpluq
'
it was a few years ago, and need not be attempted much by the
used as much
now
as
amateur.
White
cross-lining,
much more
expressive,
and
amateur possesses a printing outfit, a proof may be taken the same as of a type forme that will answer the purthe
;
',
Wash
the cut
used largely now. It is produced by cutting ordinary lines to conform to the subject being engraved, which are afterwards cross-lined, the same rule being
observed to give
it
Do
finish.
wood.
small brush
Stray Hints.
is
Conclusion.
In
paper to a
close,
handy for removing the chips from the block as the work proceeds
style
Sit
what
Any
;
patience
is
a virtue
may
as
be used.
erect as
is
possible
stooping position
It is a
attempts to engrave on wood. It is slow work, and at times very trying, especially to one who But a good is attempting it without a teacher.
proof of your cut
is
good thing to wear a shade to protect the eyes from the glare of the light too much attention cannot be paid to the eyes by an
;
labour; and to see the apparently meaningless lines of wood transformed into a clear picture
engraver.
by the ink dabber, is well worth working for. The work is well adapted to the amateur with
artistic
too
In whitening blocks for drawing, do not get much on if there is too much, it pushes up
;
and engraver
I hope I have
and makes bad work. sharpening tools should be among the engraver's kit a small stone that can be kept in the box or drawer with the tools, so as to be always at hand, is most convenient.
made the
subject
one to make a start at least and if there is anything that does not appear plain, I shall be pleased to answer any questions that may be asked through "Amateurs in Council."
218
A MODEL CUTTER.
A MODEL CUTTER.
By ELECTRON.
(For Illustrations
see
cut
fits
each line
till
the
in
section
of the
this
wood;
sides,
Part.)
on both
*"~TJ|g#jODEL yacht
1
making
of a
is
a favourite
;
hut
not
using a scraper to finish with, so as not to make any indentations in the wood. Make both sides
exactly alike
;
gj
making
it
good model
is
is
used in this
an easy task
requires
drawn hefore commencing. In the following article it is proposed to show how to make a
model
cutter,
inside
aim
at
making
which
size,
is
satis-
through
Fig.
is
a side elevation,
useful as a guide.
of the hull four
Then
fix across
the inside
showing the hull in profile, and the spars, sails, and rigging the lower haded part is the keel, which is of lead the lower edge of the shaded part at the top is the
one-fourth full
;
;
the deck
the top side, and fixed J inch below the top of the bulwarks then get a piece of J inch board,
;
water-line.
The Hull. The hull should be made first. Procure a piece of dry, well-seasoned yellow pine, free from sap, shakes, and knots be particular in selecting a good piece, as it is very annoying, after the work is half done, to come upon a crack, and to have to throw it away. The piece must be 2 feet 8 inches long, 7 inches plane this up and broad, and 6 inches deep square each side, and divide it by pencil lines
;
;
and plane it up for the deck, and mark it with a gauge \ inch apart, to imitate the planking cut it exactly to shape, and brad it down, but
;
before fixing
it,
mast
of
and
i's
also
make a
or
if
there
of
not
in
sufficient
substance,
it.
fit
a piece
thick
wood
with a hole in
little
shown
is
in Fig. 2
one-eighth
it
full
make it water-tight a hatchway may be cut in the deck midway between the mast and the stern, or an imitation cover may be fixed on the deck.
deck, will
;
muBt be
keel,
of
cast lead,
the size
depth at each division, and draw the line with a curved rule, and cut down the top of the block level with then mark the pencil lines across these lines again, and draw a centre line down the top, and also the under side, and mark with a gauge on the under side, two lines A inch on each
set otf the
;
shown, and inch thick at the top edge, and J inch at the lower edge it may be cast in a wood mould, keeping the lead as cool as it will run plane or file the keel smooth, and drill holes and fix it with screws, countersinking the
; ;
heads.
It
will,
model
if
be the line of
at
and see
if
it
too
the
which
each side the deck plan, half of in Fig. 3, one-eighth full size then cut the block all round J inch larger than
top
is
heavy, a little can be taken off the keel. Then make the rudder, as shown, and fix it with
strong cord in two places
;
shown
and
is
made
this line,
also cut
in Fig.
then
round, and passes up through a hole in the hull and deck it must be fixed stiff, so that it
;
will stand
at
any
position,
as
it
cannot
be
cardboard, the reverse of those shown in Fig. 4, which are full size, and number them. No 1
is
shitted
tiller
the
section
at No.
on Fig.
2,
and the
A MODEL CUTTER.
water-line, and on the top edge of bulwarks, with a red stringing line at level of deck, and below the water-line paint it coppery red, to The deck and imitate the copper sheathing.
219
long.
black ends, or varnished with good varnish they must be neatly rounded, and finished
inside of bulwarks
may be
white, or varnished,
is
not affected
cradle or stand ; this will keep it upright while being rigged, and will be useful
after, as if set against
idea
1,
a good
in
which
the
rigging
fixed.
Eight
single-sheaved
may be damaged. Get two pieces of f inch board, and cut them out in the centre to fit the hull, and join them together
the spars or rigging
blocks, as
by a
piece of
wood
at
each side 10 or 12
consist of the mast,
inches long.
The Spars.
top-mast,
gaff,
The
spars
bowsprit,
jib-boom,
and
top-sail yard.
The mast
spanker-boom, is f inch
shown in Fig. 9, will be required, and one double-sheaved block. Eight deadeyes will be required for the main shrouds, and six smaller for stays, etc., as shown in Fig. 8. These can be purchased, but as they are rather costly, there is no reason why they should not be made by the amateur boxwood Square the wood is generally used for them.
;
the top part for 4| inches is slightly reduced, and made square. The top mast is 18 inches
long, is inch diameter at the foot,
at the top,
pulleys
and fs inch mast by the crossThe trees (Fig. 5) and the cap (Fig. 6). cross-trees are \ inch thick, cut (as shown) out of a piece of hard wood, and fixed on the mast by a square mortise hole they rest on two The cleats, fixed one on each side of the mast. cap is fixed on the top of the mast in a similar manner the top-mast is fixed in the two and
is
and square it out with a small file. The may be turned on a small mandrel in the lathe, and are fixed by a wire put through
pulley,
fixed to the
then cut the outside to an oval shape, filing it up smooth, and file a notch round the centre for the strap. The deadthe centre of the block
;
eyes are
pulley
;
made in a similar manner, but have no boxwood cannot be got, plane-tree will make a good substitute. The mast must be set square from the deck
if
circular holes
by wire
pins.
A cleat is
the
long,
fixed to
is
fixed
by the shrouds
at each side
for
gaff halliard.
with dead-eyes at the foot, and the ends fixed The dead-eyes are kept from the to the hull.
inches
fs
inch
is
inch wide on
diameter at the outer end, and {% inch at the inner end, and projects 6 inches over the stem
;
the top-mast is also secured by each side shrouds passing through the cross-trees, and
is left is
square at
the underside.
The jib-boom
21 inches long,
\ inch diameter at the inner end, and \% inch at the outer end it is connected to the bowsprit
;
brought down to the main shrouds ladders may be formed on the main shrouds if desired. A back stay is fixed at each side with two
;
dead-eyes, as
shown
a fore stay
is
is
fixed to the
in the
same manner as the top-mast; it projects 12 inches outside of the bowsprit. The spanker
is
boom
23 inches long, \ inch diameter at the inner end, and ?.; inch at the outer end. The
gaff is 16 inches long,
i*
7
&
end
are
made to fit on the mast, as shown in Fig. 7. The topsail yard is A inch diameter and 7 inches
mast to the end of jib-boom. A stay is carried from the end of jib-boom on each side to the bulwarks, and stays from the ends of jib-boom and bowsprit are carried to the stem. A doublesheaved block is fixed to a cleat above the crosstrees, and a single-sheaved block on the inner end of gaff and a halliard is reeved through
;
these to
lift
the gaff.
A single-sheaved
block
is
220
fixed
and a on
The
and
all
to
the
The spanker-boom is lashed to the mast and at the outer end a pair of
;
When the model is not being used, the sails should be lowered and furled, to keep them clean, and all the rope ends fastened to the
cleats.
work the boom the lower block is fixed with a ring to a strong wire laid across the deck, so that it can be moved to either side. The topsail yard is raised by a halliard passing through
a single-sheaved block, fixed near the top of the
mast.
The model may be made half the sizes given, but will be easier made full size, and will be more satisfactory for sailing.
Two
on a
rail at
and one
cleat
HOUSEHOLD UTILITY.
By ED.
C.
ROE,
that
it
number, viz. and jib. The forms of the sails can be got from Fig. 1 they are made of strong calico, which should be of good quality, as an inferior material has a
The
Sails.
The
mainsail,
LTHOUGH
still
circumstances
articles
made
to close in a convenient
when manner
tendency to stretch at the edges it will also tend to obviate this if the triangular sails are The sails cut " on the cross," as it is termed.
;
are very acceptable, especially in the present day, when terrace houses are necessarily constructed with narrow entrance passages or
halls.
It follows
should be neatly
hemmed
is
all
round.
outer end of
generally that
if
the
halls
The
foresail
fixed to the
bowsprit,
halliard
;
and
is
by the
;
be small, that the landings on the various floors partake of the same character and when this is the case, any useful fitting that can be fixed in
;
edge,
inner end
on the forestay the which slides on a strong wire fixed across the deck in front of the mast, so that it can be set to
by which
is
most acceptable.
either side.
conditions or, in fact, under many others, a useful fitting is the article as described by the heading, and which we will proceed to discuss from a practical point of view.
Under such
The
and
inner
is
end of jib-boom,
;
the
Naturally, circumstances will govern the size and therefore, for the
attached to
it,
which
side of
can be attached
a cleat on either
bulwarks. The mainsail is attached to the gall' at the top, and to the spanker-boom at
the bottom
;
purposes of illustration and description, it will be necessary to adopt an' average size shelf. The frame and brackets may be of pine or deal, the only exception being the top rail, which must be of the same material as the
these
The
halliards,
The top is preferably made of walnut, or wainscot oak mahogany, hard wood, perhaps the first-named is most suitable.
shelf top proper.
;
and
221
ofdovetazUng
stiles into
' |
toprazl
Our
after
first
business
is
having settled what class to use. The following is a list of pieces required for the
completion of a shelf of the size
IfO.
named
LENGTH.
ft.
WIDTH.
ft.
THICK.
in.
1
I
TERM.
Section,
moulding on eotge-fuLL
S'/ze.
in.
iD.
1.
2
1
2
11
1
Top
shelf.
1.
li
Frame.
Frame.
Brackets.
o
1.
n
11
1
1
6
is
Let us take the top, and plane up very caretaking but little off, as otherwise it will not hold up a sufficient thickness but whatever you do, get it perfectly straight, and out of
fully,
;
one thing, above all, which must be namely, the perfect dryness of the stuff forming the top, which if not dry will be liable to curl, and we shall be put to the trouble
There
winding.
attended
to,
we
if
which is not at all an edifying If the stuff is job, especially to an amateur. dry, we need have little fear of such things
of mitre clamping,
taking place.
2-inch radius, the curve thus afforded will be found ample, and after so doing to work the moulding on ed^e, as section shown at c. This must be done with hollows and rounds but the mode of procedure being rather peculiar, I
;
222
up the frame,
after inserting
brackets in place.
However, I
useful.
will
go as far as
is
possible, or
Now for hanging the shelf to the fellow-piece which forms the top rail a pair of 2-inch brass
:
On
indicate
the
square-edged,
prior
to
and
strong.
will
not
describe
the
working Now, if we set a plough, and with it form a rebate, such as is indicated by the other dotted lines, this will give us something to work guide for the round when to, and form a working the hollow of the ogee. This will doubtless assist a little, but the remainder will have to be executed by means of patience, close attention, and properly sharpened tools. However, to proceed. We shall require for the top rail of our frame a piece off the back edge of shelf \\ inches in width so cut off, and shoot straight. Get the stuff for frame prepared, and
;
process of hanging, as
we have lately
had, from
the
pen of an able writer, some papers on etc., but would only call attention to the necessity of keeping a close joint. Doubtless the query will arise, why not use a table joint ? The answer is because, under the circumstances, the actual better appearance
hingeing,
:
is it
if of
the amateur to have the top, hard wood, nicely polished and the under parts stained and polished, or cause to be treated
;
now behoves
it
together.
as taste
may
dictate.
The ends
manner sketched at d No. 1 being the top rail, and No. 2 the top end of stile. The bottom ends of stiles are made to take the pins on end of bottom
of the stiles are fixed in the
;
With
plugs
;
may be
up,
it
endeavour
to
nail
it
rail,
as sketched at e.
shall require for support,
makes a bad and unworkmanlike job. I hope, when fixed, the shelf will bear good fruits
in
We
(Fig.
two brackets,
by The way of putting together is indicated by dotted lines, -which show the shape
as shown,
a).
2 inches to a
return for the labour expended, not to mention other things which doubtless will find
resting-place thereon.
of mortises
or they
then screwed.
or
On
shall
and thus I come to the end of hoping to return with the amateur to the bedroom, for the adornment of which I propose to devote No. 5 the subject
tale is told,
My
No. 4 of the
series,
post
we
cut
is
pins
10 inches,
is
accurately.
good way
the
of
doing this
to find
the centre of
stuff,
by means
of
To Transfer Engravings on Glass for Magic Lantern Slides. Coat the glass with dammar
varnish,
sticky.
diagonal lines, and having found it, take the centre-bit it is intended to use to bore the pin-
letting
It
it dry till it becomes quite should stand nearly two days. Then
inch in diameter ; place the point on the centre mark, and give a turn or so, thus marking the stuff with the outer cutter, and
holes, say
obtaining the true size of hole in which the pin The holes for pins shall ultimately turn.
wet the paper in soft water, and carefully lay it on the glass, rubbing it with the finger gently to expel air bubbles, the engraving side in conLet the paper dry for a tact with the varnish.
the wetted finger rub off the paper from the back. The whole paper can be thus removed, leaving the ink on the varnish. Coat the glass with another layer of varnish, which makes it more transparent, and when dry
day, then with
should
less
be
cut
in
rails
about
inch from
than f-inch from front edge. For depth, | inch will be sufficient. Eound the back edge of post, to allow for turning.
the slide
is
Scientific
Having cleaned
off
the brackets,
we
are at
American.
223
A PORTABLE PHOTOGRAPHIC
DEVELOPING CABINET.
By
}
S.
G.
HORTON.
I
and two upright and the narrow side, at b\ inches from the inside of the ends. This forms the space for the lamp or tank (a, Fig. 1). Into these partitions and the
2 inches
side,
HE
which
am
ends are
describe
is
similar
to
grooved the pieces of J-inch stuff forming the side shelves (b). These are cut so as to come flush with the outside of the wide
portion of the ends to which they are screwed.
(d) is also grooved into the and narrow part of the ends, and the small partitions (e) forming the pigeon-holes These may be made of the shape are nailed in.
which is somewhat prohibitive to those amateurs whose purses are not well lined. The general idea, as will be seen from Fig. 1, is that of a sink with shelves round it, and a back, the cabinet proper, with various pigeonholes to hold bottles, etc. while in the centre is a space which can either be utilised for a lantern, or in which a tank of water may be placed.
of
;
The
shelf
partition
The whole
a space
3 feet
folds up, as
shown
1
in Fig.
3,
into
by
2 feet
by
foot 6 inches.
:
shown in Fig. 4, to allow of the bottles being more easily handled. The back, of -inch stuff, may now be glued and screwed on. It is needless to make it of thicker stuff, as it is so well supported by the
partitions, etc.
Five The following wood will be required boards 12 feet by 9 inches by f inch; two boards, 12 feet by 9 inches by \ inch a piece, 10 feet by I foot f inch by 1 foot inch. The first portion to start work upon will be
;
(f)
nicely in the
side of Fig.
The
the sink.
inches
Make
frame of f-inch
1
stuff,
foot 10J
this,
measurement.
all
Inside
by \ inch, so as to allow the folding shelf (g) to form a front to them when closed. The latter rest on the flaps (h), and form a convenient place
for measures, etc.
screw a
round.
To
this,
screw a
The drawers
(c)
to
fit
in
from one edge, all round. On this screw a bottom of J-inch stuff, and get it lined on the deep side with the lightest lead (4 lb.), with a 1 inch wastepipe, and plug in the bottom at the back, near the centre. It will be an advantage if the sink is made to slope towards the waste-pipe. The lead should overlap the top edge by \- inch, and be nailed thereto. I suggest lead in preference to zinc, which would be lighter,
at 5 inches
be
3 inches
because lead
chemicals.
is
being made, we
may
pro-
back, or cabinet
part
of the
deep outside, and should have turn-buttons to keep them in place when the cabinet is folded down on the sink. The portion (k) which closes the top of the space (a) should be clamped at the ends, and two flush bolts let into it, which will shoot into the folding cupboards (r) when the whole is closed. It is hinged to the narrow side, as shown. If the space (a) is intended to be used as a lamp recess, we must fix a block of wood in the centre of the shelf below it large enough to take the flange of one of the swan-necked water taps sold by several dealers in photographic goods,
with a hole in the centre to lead the water This may either be by an supply through. elbow carried through the outside of the cabinet,
or
side of
another frame of f-inch stuff, one is 8 inches wide, the other side 4 inches wide, and the two ends 4 inches wide for a length of \1\ inches, the remaining
Make
which
by a pipe led
back
6^ inches being
8-i
inches wide.
8-J
there
is
an existing tap. If, however, no such water supply handy, the best
224
225
sink, which should be done with strap hinges To support the cabinet shaped like Fig. 5.
when
We will
now suppose
made within its wooden case. The next part to make is the stand, or legs. These are lj inches square, and are fastened on in the manner
shown in Fig. 2 those at each end being framed together with 1^ inches by f inch battens mortised into them at 5 inches from the lower ends. Across the top ends, on the outside, are screwed similar battens at such a distance from
;
which drop into loops screwed on the The flaps are back of sink, are required.
Fig.
when
folded
down by
means
of
The whole cabinet is secured for travelling by shown in Fig. 3. These should be fastened by screws passing into plates let
iron straps, as
when
back of the cabinet over the partitions, and on the edge of the sink frame below.
into the
6 inches
by bearing the lower edge of the frame. The legs at one end are 28 inches long, and at the other 27 J inches a block H- inches square
sink,
;
in at
come
to within 1 inch of the top edge, on which one can place developing dishes.
m
FIG. 2.
SCALE
l"
TO
i'.
T
Y*-*j
nrn
ni
tt
m
being screwed in to each of the corners, to hinge the long legs being hinged
;
Now
holes.
on the ^-inch sink bottom, which is, however, The legs relieved from strain by the battens. are kept in position when open by a grating, as shown in Fig. 1, which rests on the lower battens, and fits tight between the four legs. This also forms a cover for the recess in which
the legs fold.
- stoppered bottles known as These occupy the shop rounds." pigeon-holes in the " wings," and contain 10
a dozen
glass
" 12-ounce
of
the
and ends of the sink are screwed fillets | inch square, on which These the side and front flaps are hinged. should be 9 inches wide by f inch thick, clamped at the ends. They are kept open by the hinged brackets shown on right-hand side
of front
of
In the drawers are kept scales and weights, and such notes on special developers which are issued with various makers' plates. The bottom
shelf serves to hold the various dishes, while
required
suitable
as
Fig.
2.
As
by
receptacle,
| inch,
on account of the
clamps of that
flaps
be required to connect the tap to any available source of water supply. The whole of the
for them to take a bearing on. These should be placed in such a position that when folded
cabinet to the
now sized and varnished with white hard varnish, and the exterior varnished or painted with one of the many enamels now on the market.
interior is
226
Before concluding, I
the
remember.
Wood,
screws,
total,
14s.
9d.
bottles, 19s.
;
and the more simple forms substi12 represents a semaphore (front and edge views) that may be placed in such a position as x in Fig. 8, and will serve as a
away
with,
tuted.
Fig.
6d.
brackets, 3s.
straps,
3s.
general example.
The view of the illustration is such as would be seen by the driver of a train proceeding on making of it was a capital task in carpentry. the line a b from a towards b, but not having reached the spot x. He would see that the arm No. 1 is painted red with a white spot (while on the other side, which he could not see, it is BUILDING. painted white with a black cross-line), and he would also see that the other three are painted with black cross-lines (the unseen sides white By W. E. J. GAWTHORP. being red with white dots). The only arm he III. Signals Accessories Conclusion. will take notice of will be that on his left AVING now laid the whole of the per- of the post, showing him a red face (No. 1). manent way, it is necessary to arrange In our illustration this is down, or "off," the signals to regulate the traffic. As in so that he will steam past the post we have not drawn up any special plan of lines, safety but he would also know that a train was we cannot indicate the exact spots in which to signalled on the next line, not only to pass this place the semaphores, but must be content with To understand this, post, but the next one too. a few general remarks. It has already been we must suppose ourselves on the other side of pointed out that the "home" signal is very the post, travelling on the line d c from d, or on often preceded by a "distant" signal, but it is the line b a from b. The latter case could only probable that the amateur's line is not long be outside a terminus where trains start from enough to allow sufficient room for more than either line, as excepting in such a position no Distant signals may be the home signals. train would be allowed to travel the reverse placed on the post of a home signal having way of the lines. For instance, a train would reference to the next home signal, thus econonot travel from b to a, but it might do so from b mising space and posts. Every distant signal to c, in which case the arm No. 2 would be should be connected with its relative home consulted, and it is at once evident that arms signal, so that when the home signal falls or No. 1 and No. 2 cannot be both down at the rises, the distant signal works accurately with same moment, or the two trains would collide it. All the signals may be worked by means of neither can Nos. 2 and 3 be both off together, or strong threads, running to levers in the same the trains would run together on the points. way as the shunt wires. The posts should Only when No. 2 is down must the shunt be generally be placed at the entrance to and exit open so that a train may travel from B to c. from stations, on either side of the line as may Now suppose we are travelling from d to c, we be convenient, and may carry arms referring to notice that both Nos. 3 and 4 (of which we see either line, placed according to the invariable the red sides) are down therefore by No. 3 we rule that the arms affecting the progress of the pass the post, and by No. 4 we know that the train are on the left side of the post viewed next signal is also off, even though we cannot from the position of the advancing engineNotice here that the distant signal see it. driver. The shape of signals varies on different No. 4 is distinguished by a notch in the end, railways, but the illustrations given herewith and also that it may be used in conjunction are the simplest and probably most often used with either Nos. 2 or 3, because it relates to one
3
6s.
7d.
MODEL RAILWAY
(PEEMANENT WAY.)
forms.
with
On many railways, complicated sets many arms on one post are being done
post.
it
By
this
example
will
227
him
from b to c, post about the position of letter b, so that a train would be stopped by it before reaching the
points.
In the arm No. 2, referring to the shunt would be better placed on another
(See dotted lines in Fig. 12.) Put a pinhead into the post, so that the weight rests upon it when at a right angle to the post (as No. 2) then the length of the thread must be such that in this position the weight pulls the arm up In also at right angles to its post (as No. 2). the illustration two weights are fixed on each
end.
The
posts should
where there is one, should be wide enough for the signalman to walk along between the upper posts in order to get at and light the lamps, and there should be a light wire rail on The position of the ladder by either side. which the signalman mounts is shown in the side view, but omitted in the front view to avoid confusion of lines this may be made of two
cross-bar,
;
room for the Thus it is clear that the weights naturally keep the arms up until, by pulling down the short ends of the balances, and thus lifting up the weights, the pull is taken off the arms, and they fall of their own weight.
side of the post, thereby allowing
Now
square
strips
of
wood, with
wire
"rungs"
of
A couple
wire brackets should be placed under the crossit. Copper wire will be found the best, and most easy to bend. The arms should be let into the posts, and pinned through as in Fig. 13, which shows in section the two arms Nos. 1 and 2 pinned through and working on one pivot. The back end is to project through the post slightly as in Fig. 14, and to a small hole in its end a strong thread is connected for working purposes. When the arms are unattached, they must drop by their own weight to an angle of 45 degrees (half a right angle), but real signals have to be made so that if by any chance they become disconnected from
end a thread passing from the balance through a loop on the ground board, running along the board to the signal lever, wherever placed. In so small a model it would be hardly possible to make working lamps for the signals, but the position of them is shown in Fig. 12; that is, just below the corresponding arm on the opposite side of the post, and within reach of a man walking on the horizontal beam. One lamp answers for arms in the position of Nos. 1 and 2, and therefore it is made to show a light each way, and each face is provided with a pair of coloured glasses working in connection with the corresponding arm. These glasses (omitted for sake of clearness in Fig. 12) are so arranged that when the arm falls a green glass covers the bulls-eye of the lamp on the side working with that arm, and a red glass when the arm remains The lamps for arms Nos. 3 and 4 have only up. one face, each provided with one pair of coloured Without further exglasses or "spectacles."
planation, Fig. 16 will suffice to illustrate the front view of the spectacles,
and
side views of
To accomplish
them on
this,
have as many
the same with lamp in position, remembering that the spectacles move up and down with the
work
in exactly
arm, and the lamp is a fixture to the post. Leaving the building of locomotives (without
the same way as the arms, only allowing for them to rise when pulled instead of falling. Each must have a small hole at the light end, and another at the same distance from the pivot pin, but between that and the weight attach a thread from the end of the arm to the balanceweight with a corresponding number, fastening
we
with a few remarks upon various accessories that may or may not be considered necessary, and that may also be left largely to the fancy and
ingenuity of the reader.
may be
placed at the
228
ends of the lines where two or three converge, so as to be accessible from the turntable, or a spur
and shunt may be added which leads to a turntable, as in Fig. 3. Fig. 7, turning on a pivot or pin in the central sleeper, will do very Of course, this well for a central turntable.
line
A balance
weight on a
short post, working like the signal weights, with a cord through a loop in the ground, and fixed
to one
to pull the
fl/\
[
/\
c
might be much improved by being fixed upon a circular plate turned by a cog-wheel out of an old clock, or by a band round its central pivot, and a^corresponding reel with a handle to it. As the signals are not used for shunting purposes, it is usual to place at each point where shunting may be carried on a revolving lamp having a red light on one side and a green This is set light on the next side of a square.
to position, so as to
show the
to a
when the weight is allowed to fall, it will ; bring back the red light. The levers for either shunts or signals should
be strong strips of metal or wood between two segments of circles of metal or wood, similar to
HOW
Pig.
1 7.
229
By
be pulled forward
to the position
in the figure, so as to
and feet. The face, of a flat nature, has high and prominent cheek-bones, whilst the nose is rather undersized, but with very wide nostrils. The eyes are of an oblique position of
"almond"
the nose.
thick,
little
through a hole behind the lever, the latter be held in position as long as required.
Buffers,
fitted
may
very
with or without springs, should be at the ends of all lines which do not end
For
lows
:
as fol-
on turntables.
to the
The form
of these
may be
fit
left
With a
him
that they
the
buffers on
the rolling-stock.
Bits of round
eyebrows a good coating, and then press and rub them down with the forefinger firmly and smoothly until they are next to invisible. The wig is next adjusted
flesh colour, give the
;
a skull-cap, properly
A whole article might be devoted to stations but we will desist, leaving the amateur to be contented with a narrow slip of board on each side
of the rails,
coloured,
with a pigtail.
powder
is
next
made
up, consisting of \ ounce mongolian and lj ounces powdered pure Dutch pink (yellow)
or to work out for himself an elaborate terminus with arched roof, numerous platforms connected at the ends by a broad
cross-piece,
and
fitted
with
offices
and rooms
decorated with windows and doors, or an intermediate station with covered footbridge across
the lines.
The
and this is applied to the face, neck, and hands with the hare's-foot, great care being exercised in hiding the joiu of the skull-cap with the forehead, and matching the colour on the cap to that of the face with some powder. To give the effect of "almond" shaped eyes, the outside corners of the lids must be painted white in order to lengthen the eye, and under this a dark
going upwards and outwards, to represent The bellows of the nostrils must The hollow also be enlarged in the usual way. in the centre of face, just over the upper lip,
line
much
in the
way
of
children's fingers
when
manipulating the trains, thereby preventing the whole from fulfilling the purpose it should
serve, namely, of
to the
the lashes.
young people.
must be
slightly
who has
fol-
umber
and
lastly,
be able to turn out a creditable model, we have only to add that we shall be pleased to endeavour to explain away any difficulties that may arise to anyone who
will
tance
may
HOW
The
Chinese
are of
is
medium
Complexion: No. 5 J, Hair black high lights on cheek-bones. Powder: fuller's earth for toning straight. down. Japanese. These are most interesting people, " on the stage and off." They also are of a yellow complexion, with small, oblong eyes sunk deep into the head, and in colour black or dark brown. The eyelids form in the great angle of the eye a deep furrow, which makes them appear as if very sharp-sighted the eyebrows are also placed higher. The head is The hair is generally large, and neck short. black and short, and the nose rather short and
Fox's Grease Paints.
:
230
thick.
HOW
For a powder make-up proceed as directed for Chinese, merely altering the shade of the powder as required, and giving proto all the features
Hair
black
worn.
The Hindoos have small hands and a high
forehead, black eyes, well-arched eyebrows, fine
minence
enumerated above. Fox's Colours. Complexion No. 6. Hair black. Powder for toning down, fuller's earth. Egyptians. There are three different types of Egyptians the Ethiopians, the Indian, and the
Berbel.
among the higher almost black however, the skin will be found much
;
prominent jaw, a thick lip, a broad, flat nose, and protruding eyes. The complexion is almost
black,
TJie
There
is
upon
brushed
little
Indians. The nose is long and narrow; the eyelids are thin, long, and slanting obliquely from the top of the nose towards the temples the ears are set high in the head the body short
;
Fox's Colours.
of No.
5.
Complexion
:
from a centre parting. No. 10, with a Hair black. Powder light
:
:
brown, or
fuller's earth.
American Indians.
The
;
and the legs very long. The Berbel type is the modern race. They have a broad forehead, a rounded chin, full cheeks, a straight
slight,
and
nose with strongly curved nostrils, large brown eyes, a narrow mouth with thick lips and white
high projecting ears, and extremely black beards and eyebrows. The colour of the skin is a dull red, and the hair is black and generally
teeth,
rough and coarse in the scarceness of their beard and in their complexion, which varies from yellow to a red copper colour. Among one portion of them the very prominent nose and large open eyes recall to mind the
;
white
race.
(See
Louis
Figuier,
in
"The
curly.
Fox's Grease Colours. Complexion: No. 10, heightened according to type. Hair: black, generally long and curled among the ancient
tribes.
Human
Race.")
The nations
of the southern
Powder for toning down, fuller's earth. The Arabs are characterised by long face, with a high shaped head, an aquiline nose nearly in a line with the forehead, a retreating
:
branch of the red race resemble the yellow race more closely than those of the northern. Tbeir complexion, which is often yellowish or olive, is never so red as that of the northern Indians
;
and they frequently have oblique eyes. In making up for these characters, a preparation called mongolian
their noses are not so prominent,
is
beard.
skin.
little
Some
beer,
actors mix the mongolian with a and apply to the face with a sponge,
fair as
the Europeans of the more northern The black tribes differ from the negroes in not having woolly hair. Fox's Colours. Complexion: No. 10, lightened
countries.
or darkened as necessary.
ally of
Hair
black, gener:
moderate length.
Persians
Powder
great
brown or
of
fuller's earth.
TJie
adding thereto, when dry, a strong colouring of etc. A line beneath the lower eyelashes is then painted in with some Indian ink or the mongolian may be mixed with cold cream, which makes it much easier to wash off. The eyebrows must be made heavy and black, and the hands coloured to match, and a wig of long straight black hair worn. If the war-paint is to be put on, then the face
;
possess
regularity
red,
blue,
an oval countenance, luxuriant hair, large and well-defined eyebrows, and that soft dark eye held in such high estimation in the
features,
Fox's
Grease
Paints.
:
No.
is
mixed with
East.
No.
5.
Hair
black, long,
straight, coarse,
HOW
eomiDg down very low on each
head.
Negroes.
231
pantaloon's
complexion
is
is
the
same
as
This make-up
number
in existence.
is
in great demand,
white wig
beard.
worn,
owing
is
to the large
of
troupes
now
made
Statuary. There are many pieces where actors have to make-up as statues, such as Pygmalion and Galatea," " The Marble Heart," " Hercules,
'
'
ing round the mouth with red paint. The burnt cork should be powdered up, and mixed with
ordinary cold cream or, better still, vaseline, and applied to the face. Apply carmine to the cheeks and round the eyes. Negroes have protruding lips, a low forehead, projecting teeth, woolly and half-frizzled hair, thin beard, broad
flat nose,
King
etc.,
of Clubs," etc., etc. The face, neck, arms, should be well covered with Blanc dePerles,
and afterwards powdered with pure oxide of zinc, dabbed on with a piece of soft flannel shaped into a pad. A fine line should be placed
immediately beneath the lower eyelashes, in
order to
speaking.
give
expression
to
If a
moustache or beard is worn, they should be very short and coarse, with very little whiskers, as the hair grows but slightly on the cheeks. Fox's Grease Taints. No. 10, mixed with black. Hair black, short, crisply curled, and
The eyebrows must be painted white with white grease paint, and to throw them out
little put a faint shadow of blue just above and below them. For " Galatea " the ordinary hair is worn dressed Grecian fashion but for the three statues in " The Marble Heart white " marble" wigs must be worn, and if a moustache or beard is required, it must be made of the same material. Statues are often required
coarse.
I think I have now given directions for making-up most of those types of mankind usually portrayed upon the stage so will now treat upon some of the other class of characters, commencing with Clowns. The face of a clown is covered with prepared whiting, which can be had from S. French, 89, Strand, or of C. H. Fox. In
;
face up, the hair should be well brushed back out of the way, and a skull-cap put on. A small portion of the whiting is then taken up on the tip of the finger, and worked round the mouth and eyes, over the eyelids, and
making the
well into the ears, taking care that every crevice is well covered. larger quantity of whiting
then taken in the palm of the hand, and well rubbed in all over the face, throat and neck, and the whole is then carefully examined to see if
is
every part is well and evenly covered. The plain skull-cap, which has protected the hair from the powder, should now be removed, and
the clown's wig adjusted, and the joint carefully whitened in order to hide it. The eyebrows are
well rubbed with black grease paint, and the red patches on the face, and the red round the
mouth,
left to
is
all this
being
the fancy of the artist, crescents and stars being perhaps the most popular designs.
Jews. These are favourite characters with most low comedians, and in these there is, of course, plenty of scope for an effective make-up. For a powder make-up we proceed as follows Powder the face, neck, etc., with prepared fuller's earth, and apply a faint colouring of Dutch pink, afterwards heightening the effect with a little rouge on the cheeks. The usual lines are then put in, and the wig adjusted, taking pains to join it well with joining paste, and toning down with fuller's earth. The eyebrows should be bushy and heavy. The nose, however, is the great thing in these characters, as we have to give it the " hooked " appearance To do this, shade so characteristic of the race. the portion in between the eyes and just over the bridge with some burnt umber or brown grease paint, and in the same way enlarge the If preferable, especially for very comic nostrils. parts, a false nose may be put on with nose paste or cotton wool. These characters should not be overdone, as they frequently are, even by experienced professionals. In making-up for a Jewish character, it must first be ascertained to what country the Jew belongs, for it must be
:
232
among whom
still
tedious to
of
and stop chamfering are more work than straight lines. The piece
will look
furniture
is
by some minute
peculiarities of
that
and
-
this
wood
physiognomy. In the northern countries of Europe, for instance, they are fair with blue eyes. Flaxen hair is also seen in English Jews, and in Germany red beards may frequently be seen upon a Jewish face. The stage Jew, however, is almost always made up dark why, it is hard to say. Fox's Grease Paints. Complexion No. 2\ and 10, high lights on cheek bones, and on bridge of nose: Lips rather full. Hair dark brown or black Powder beard and moustache. fuller's earth. Nose paste or cotton wool may be used for false noses, which can be moulded into any shape desired.
;
is fairly
subsequently
The
last
named wood
any "finish" to the work in carving, owing to its open cellular tissue, which is rough in the crossdoes not, however, lend
itself to
ground
plane.
and
keenly
set
pieces,
which would,
show
from
and 18 inches
also in
height from the ground the width of the cross of piece supporting the back of the seat is, upper course, 14| inches, the width of the two bars of the back, as marked on the sketch.
This cross-bar
inches deep, and passes 2 each side of the through inches beyond and is no necessity for There chair. uprights of the
is
OSHE
constructed,
hall chair, of
6how a
and
front
any such piece under the front of the chair, as will be found from the construction of the seat appears to itself, though the drawing (Fig. 1)
show a bar
K
subsequently
and
IE
Back
-jU
now
given,
the
hope
of
other
brother
FIG. 4.
Chairs, as a
and resources of the amateur workshop. The one now, however, under consideration, avoids
the
difficult
Front
"professionally"
is
"dowel" made
joints
peculiar to the
not of the commonest, having been specially sketched for the writer by a clever architect, of known taste and practice. The wood chosen
may be
either
course, the
better,
Plane up the timber on both sides, first with a finely-set jack plane, and lastly with a smoothing plane, taking care to have but little iron on, and to work always with (not against) the grain. If too heavy a shaving is removed, the wood will tear, and much labour
be necessary to produce a properly finished Next draw full-sized paper patterns surface.
of each piece of the one side of the chair, viz.,
233
All these
cut these
out to the
after
previously
meet properly at
a.
The end
or the chair will look, from front view, inaccurately turned out.
cross piece must have a dovetail beyond, but hidden by the upright (c). This dovetail fits into the end of the cross piece d, which is finally
by strong screws, to the inside of the back (e f, Fig 1). The paper pattern from which this and its companion
secured,
cross piece at the
and
flat.
FIG.
I.
FRONT ELEVATION.
FIG.
2. SIDE ELEVATION.
When
Under
larger
Fig. 4), into which the back uprights will fit. this seat fit the lower frame \ inch
endeavour to so arrange them that whilst the grain runs in a similar direction in all, there is
a min im um waste of board in cutting out the
several pieces.
way, but with mitre joints, which should specially fit under the upper frame, and rest on piece d (Fig. 2). The two seat frames are held together with strong l|-inch screws, and the lower
every
except the
back,
frame
before
is
fastened
down
and
two back
by
similar
screws, but
put in
screws
the top
is finally
fixed
by
its
own
Next
wrongly.
a chisel
from underneath. Thus no screws are seen except by turning the chair upside down. The chair should now be put, or "pegged" together and when all parts properly fit, take the edges. it to pieces, and "stop-chamfer"
;
234
The upper frame of seat must now be stuffed with a " pin-cushion " seat, as explained in
the excellent articles on " Upholstery at
in
Home,"
in
;
If
orbit
that
support shall
dark maroon imitation leather, and looks well but dark green will harmonise well with the ash or oak. If the finishing plane has been properly set, little or no final application of sandpaper is necessary. Mix Cannon's powder size with boiling water until slightly sticky under the finger and thumb, then apply hot to the wood, avoiding all needless working
is
Amateub,
Work.
My own
be perpendicular to the earth's orbit, then e o, e' o' will be the visible horizon. Let us now
elevate
it
so that
it is
i,
if
turned round on
the line
i
i'
;
its
axis
along
and
to
it
ment
is
elevated,
Now, the
p,
;
,
stars
appear
circles
if
to
and the
i
they
the
make
its
are a
a',
c',
etc.
consequently
circle
and frothing. "When quite dry, varnish with two coats of elastic oak varnish, drying horoughly between each application. The " Council Column " is available for any points
not sufficiently clear, or accidentally omitted.
were turned on
horizontal axis,
it
made
by the
ing
round
it
cuts
at x, b at x, the stars at
;
thus to keep a
turned on
ascending or descending, as
may be
But
let
us
we now
West.
^ OME
years since, a series of valuable on this subject appeared in the English Mechanic, from which I,
articles
many
others, obtained
Perhaps it is idle to expect that these words of mine should ever come under the eye of the gifted writer referred
;
to
yet, if
of indebtedness to him.
bend the stand over on one side, so that it shall no longer be perpendicular to the e o, but to the equator e e' (Fig. 2), and be directed to the pole It will, I think, be quite clear of the heavens. that if the telescope is now turned round on its axis, it will cut circles parallel with the motion of the stars. In Fig. 2, the telescope is directed to a star at c if the instrument be now turned on its axis (which is parallel with the axis of the heavens), it will cut the circle c c, and consequently keep the star in view until it sinks below the horizon x. If directed to a star at e, it would keep it in view for twelve hours, the other twelve hours it being below the horizon. If again directed to a star at b, and the instrument is turned round at a regular rate once in
;
many a
time, and if anyone reading this has also read them, he will perceive that my mind has become pretty well saturated with his method. As we have seen in a previous article, it is
would remain in the same position in the field of view, because the instrument moves in the same plane, and at the same speed as the star.
possible to follow the motions of a star with a telescope having two points of motion perpendicular to each other; these two being required because the horizontal motion of the telescope is
By
pole,
we have gained this great advantage, that we need but one motion to follow a star, instead
of
two
its circles
not coincident with the circles around the pole of the heavens. In Fig. 1, 1 have endeavoured
to
thus
we
call it
its
an equatorial.
But
it
this is the
idea in
is
the funda-
make
this
clear
here
is
represented the
235
now be prepared
axis of
to take another
f e, which
is
;^he
axis
is
the
instrument
must be
parallel with the pole of the earth, hence this tailed the polar axis of the instrument
quadrant at 50, which is also the latitude of the place in the diagram. Thus by this simple means we can, if we know the latitude of any
given place, mark
off
and
fill
in future
we
shall so designate
it.
Fig. 3
we
get
more acute the angle beAt e ^the equator) the p a (polar axis) at right angles to g h, the pedestal, and per-
Before
we proceed
to the
mechanical construc-
our consideration.
at the right angle,
At d, c, and B the angles become more and more acute fa each ease the top of the pedestal to which
;
but
and south. How, then, to find the true north must be our next consideration.
the p a
places
is
It will be
attached is parallel with the pole. seen that a pedestal for any two
On
we
must bolt a
about 12
is
inches square
by
inch thick.
Now it
known
have a different angle; indeed, the elevation of the polar axis must be the same as the degree
of latitude of the point of observation.
an interest in the subject of this article, that the magnetic needle, whilst it gives the magnetic north, does not
to everyone capable of taking
In a former paper we have supposed that we have fixed a pillar firmly in the ground, and
that
it is
indicate
the true
north
also
that
what
is
generally
known
of the earth;
we now want
to determine the
may be
exact angle of the polar axis. To do this we must learn the latitude of the place in which we reside, and where we wish to plant the telescope. In almost any good atlas the latitude and longi-
measurements
true north
must not be so considered. The a point around which this star appears to revolve. It will be readily understood that when the sun is in the meridian it is
tude of
all the principal places are given ; for example, I look for Preston in Lancashire, the place where I am now writing, and I find it is 53 45' north. On a sheet of cartridge-paper I
due south. If, then, on a circle the centre of which is determined, we can point to due south,
the fixing of the true north
already referred
to, find
is
easy.
On
the slab,
draw a large semicircle of, say, 2 feet diameter, as Fig. 4, and mark off degrees and quarter degrees, and down to seconds if needs be of
:
shown in Fig.
6.
which we work,
the easier this will be accomplished. From b, draw a line through 53 45' to d extend the line
;
In the centre drill a small hole, just large enough to take a steel knitting needle, which must be perfectly straight. This needle must be fixed as a gnomon, and precaution must be taken that it is perfectly perpendicular
this
is
b d, which must be cut by a line, e f, parallel with b c. Draw lines f, g, e, h parallel with line d b this will be a template by which we must cut off the top of the pedestal, a b, Fig. 5. It will thus be seen that the elevation of the
;
absolutely
essential.
When
the
days
December
in
June or
receives
-is
operations.
At any
station
which
is co-ordinate with the latitude of the place, as it is generally formulated. This is easily demonstrated thus
time from Greenwich set a good time-keeping watch. Our watch will now be fast or slow,
draw
lines
fe,ji
;
with the string a b; and lines e f, k i, parallel with line b c it will be seen that the angle f x I is the same as f b i. Or, again, extend the
line f o,
we may happen to be east or west of Greenwich, at the rate of 1 hour for every 15 degrees. Thus, as the circle is divided into 360, one twenty-fourth of that is 15. As there are
as
it
and the
line
Turning again
is
Now
so the sun is due south, or on the meridian at Preston eleven minutes later than at Greenwich. On the same principle the true noon at any place can be found when we have determined its longitude. As a matter of fact, we
minutes of time
FIG
5.
FIC 6
can either for the purpose before us set our watch at the true time, or make calculation for
the difference.
where
gnomon
;
falls
on the
circle c
237
run down
and at a at 20 minutes 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and 40 minutes after noon. Find the centre of a a, I b, c e, and draw a line through these to the centre of the circle, and extend the line to the other diameter, and the line will lie true north
to
* at
30 minutes to noon
noon.
Again
at
to the rim, and soften canvas in place, thereby weakening the tyre and causing it to give way when
side,
otherwise the
oil will
holds the
it.
and south. It will be well to put a deep V notch end of the line. If the polar axis of the telescope is now placed coincident with this
at each
line, it will
it will show itself by stopping immediately after being revolved. Slacken back the nut on the loose cone side, and turn back the loose cone a very little bit try the wheel again, and when
;
WRINKLES FOR
CYCLISTS.
By A PRACTICAL REPAIRER.
^^^S
%JQ *"PP^^
I
I
Ball Bearings.
a practical repairer, I hare often been surprised aQd amused at the ross ignorance of many g L '. TcUsts regarding the mechanism of their
little knowledge of which to the repairing shop, and
J=
'4
FIG
3.
A
is
from 18
to .20.
It of
carefully
intricate
piece
concealed
from
the
FIC.2.
FIG.
FIG.
CODES'
cdo^-^^
F' G
'
^^ "^
it
SP ' NDLE
should know something of this part of the mechanism. These bearings consist of hard steel balls running in hard
steel
receptacles
made
as
set smartly revolving, it should run for about five minutes. Catch the wheel at the tyre, and move it sideways if it has
;
lessen the
friction
much
as
possible.
will do.
It
is
highly
Screw up the
the
necessary, therefore, that they should be adjusted to give best possible result. In a first-class machine the3e
employed in the steering head, both wheels, pedal shaft, and pedals. All these bearings require adjustment now and then, from caps and nuts working loose by the" vibration of the machine and with a very
balls are
;
nut firmly. If the wheel is too loose, this will be discerned by moving it sideways as before it will show loose at the hub; slacken back the nut as before, and
;
up the cone until the shake almost disappears, and screw up the nut again. The same operation is observed with regard to the pedals, pedal shaft, and steering
tighten
head.
little
may
readily adjust
them
for
himself.
Above
bearings
should be
kept clean
become clogged with oil, pour in some parafiin, and make the wheel revolve. The paraffin will clean out the dirt then wipe off with a rag, and oil the bearings afresh. If the machine has pneumatic tyres, this cleaning out must be done with the machine lying on its
;
when
they
hub spindle and cones. The loose cone should always be on the left side of the wheel this prevents any tendency on the part of the cone to run inward and jam up the wheel.
;
238
HOW
TO
IT.
If
may
a beautiful polish.
any
round quickly, and (holding the hand steadily) touch the place where the rim wobbles Unscrew the spoke a half turn or with a piece of chalk. so on that side where the chalk has touched, and tighten by this a spoke or two on the other side of the wheel means the wheel may be easily brought true again. The turning of the spokes is accomplished by means of a spokegrip, shown in Fig. 3. If the cyclist has not one of these handy little instruments, he should procure one the price is about Is. 6d., and by a little careful use of it he may save many a trundling of the machine to the
spin
it
;
;
any parts of the frame, they should be touched up with " Club " special, hard-drying, black enamel, which is
about the best I have ever used.
Spare Nuts.
cyclists is nuts dropping off on happens with a pedal, the machine is crippled for the trip. To meet such a contingency the cyclist should find out the size of the thread on all nuts of his machine that are at all likely to come off, and provide himself with at least one of each. They can be easily carried in the tool-bag or in the pocket, and he has nothing to do but replace a lost nut from his store.
the road.
When
this
repairing shop.
The
cyclist,
omit to carry a small box of these articles in his pocket, The leather in case of a piece of tyre coming loose. piece of the binder goes round the tyre, and the two wire ends are twisted together in the rim.
tyre
is
Gearing.
By
may be found by a simple Multiply the diameter of the driving wheel by the number of teeth in the chain wheel, and
of a cycle
The gearing up
arithmetical rule.
may
be properly fastened.
number
Fixing.
Loose Tyres.
wheel hub chain cog. The result will be the Example that the machine is geared to.
:
To
fix
Driving wheel
...
...
...
...
30 inches
16
shows one of these useful articles, which may be purchased from most cycle dealers or cycle the price ranges from about 2s. for fitting warehouses
be found handy.
;
is
180 30
Teeth on hub cog
9 )480
use.
It is
connected to a gas
bracket by means of a piece of rubber tubing. Heat the rim under the loose part, and the cement will soon dissolve.
53
inches.
Roll the
tyre
sideways,
and
if
sufficiently
heated the
Winter To
to lay bis
Storing.
if
hard clean off See that in fixing the tyre you have the overflow cement. it projecting out at an equal distance from the rim all round, as the wheel will run lumpy if this is not done.
cement
will ooze
When
protect
off,
them through
and when
rubbed
Broken Tyre.
sometimes happens that a tyre gels broken, or the may give way. To re-splice it cut the ends, as shown in Fig. 2, with a keen, wet knife smear the ends with cement, sold for the purpose in most of the cycle
It
splice
HOW
IT.
5.
TO
tins.
Hang up
almost dry (about an hour), then join the ends This neatly together, and hammer with a wooden mallet. makes a capital joint if the ends have been neatly cut.
cement
is
The Chain.
The
chain should, to run properly, be slack enough to
Light Apparatus.
hang just a little, and lubricated with blacklead or graphine, which may be obtained at the cycle dealers. If tbe cyclist has been using oil, and wishes to change to blacklead, he should steep his chain in paraffin for an hour or so. This will clean the chain perfectly free from
clogged
oil.
-A New System of Dissolving Fitting the Gas Tubes The Rolling Curtain Effect Lacquering the Brasswork The Retort, Purifier, and
Gas Bag.
HE
dissolver
is
for
the purpose
die
;
of
Nickel-Plating.
making one
picture
away and
To keep up
up the nickel-plated parts now and then. Mix a little rouge with water to form a paste. Apply to the plated parts with a piece of wash leather, and polish off with a large soft piece of the same material
cyclist should polish
another take its place this is simply done by turning tlie light from one burner into Nearly every maker has his own another. patent, and all are most costly and complicated,
IT.
239
it
will
have the
effect
behind; then bring it down again, and change This makes a nice change from the dissolving, but the extra gas consumed is a
the slide.
serious item.
it
to the readers of
Amateur Work.
All
we want
is
;
adjusting cocks
gen to the one on the oxygen, with a little handle or knob, so that when pulled it works
the two gases.
(See Figs. 31 and 32.)
:
Another pleasing effect is to throw a soft tint on the picture, which is done by taking out the curtain shutter, and putting in another having
gelatine or coloured glass in the holes.
We
push in the same
sometimes want
to
Now to
the
dissolve
of the
all
we have
to do is
knob
which we have the next slide. Surely nothing can be more simple than that. I have only given instructions for making one of each of the parts, but of course we shall want
three sets of everything.
we must put two upright tubes to carry the gases to the burners. Make a tube to fit inside
and screw or solder flanges to the ends with holes for screwing to the woodwork. Make a tube as before, but with one end projecting 1 inch beyond the flange. Now connect two upright tubes, one of which has a little tube projecting at right angles. Connect the burner
crosswise,
some boxes or books are generally put under for but our body being hinged at the back to the plinth, it is a simple matter, and much more convenient, to fix a screw and plate, the same as to the slide-holder. All the brass work that has been made bright must now be polished up again with fine dry emery powder and a brush, wiped up clean, and without touching with the hands, placed in an oven or other warm place then, when just hot enough to touch with the finger, quickly and
that purpose
; ;
it with a little gold lacquer on a brush or dabber of cotton wool then place back in the oven again for a few minutes to
evenly go over
soft
harden.
time,
properly, and
it
some practice to do this you make a mess of it the first can be rubbed off with a little methyIt will require
if
lated spirit.
The tubes must be stopped so that one gas goes up one tube, and the other gas up the other tube the two little projecting tubes come through the
;
finished
So far as the lantern is concerned our job is but we shall want some gas, or rather
;
gases, to
The
first
in steel cylinders.
A nice effect is produced by fitting the lantern with a rolling curtain arrangement, thus get a strip of thin brass, say 5 inches wide and
:
8 to 16 feet of
;
each sort
besides,
This
is
a serious item
many
when one
hole
is
hole
is
Fit a
were they so inclined so for their must give the details of manufacture. To make the oxygen we shall require a retort, a purifier to cool and wash the gas, a bag to hold it, some f rubber tube, chlorate of potass, and black oxide of manganese. The retort is a cone made
procure
benefit I
of sheet iron, about 12 inches
New
we put a
slide in
high and
6 inches
T and
side.
ordinary
tlide.
strip of
brass or
240
to
HOW
6s.
TO
;
IT.
shape
little
complete.
of tin,
any size
from
it
secure the rubber to the boards with a glue and a few tacks, leaving a margin all
a Swiss milkjtin to a biscuit box. A quart oilcan may be got at any oilshop for sixpence, and
it is
will
round of about \ inch of rubber to double over (see Fig. 35), take up the sides, and secure in the same way. The rubber will project a few inches over the end it must not be cut off, but
;
have a screwed cap, into which can be soldered a little -} brass tube. Make a hole in the sid e near the top, and solder a tube so that it will go
nearly to the bottom, and project a few inches on the outside. (See a, Pig. 34.)
36
The bag is the most difficult part of all, but I have no doubt with a little perseverance you will
wedge.
Now
cut
all
round,
leaving about \ inch of margin, and very carefully glue and tack
get over
it.
You
;
will require
3 feet square
all
and warranted not to shake or split a piece of rubber twill sheeting 3 yards long and 1 yard wide (this will cost you from 3s. to 12s. per yard, according to quality) 2 yards of American
;
leather,
strong calico
;
and 2 yards of some bi-ass-headed tacks, Id. per dozen two pair of hinges, and a brass f cock, with end to take f rubber tube. Glue the calico on one side of each of the boards when dry give a coat or two of paint then hinge at one end, lay the rubber twill flat on the ground, and open out the boards wedge
from
6d. to 2s. per yard,
; ;
down. A strip can be cut from the waste, about 36 inches long and 3 wide, to cover the end, and great care must be FIC 33 Ttetort. taken in making the join, which can lap over as much as the rubber will allow the joint should be made with rubber solution. Now, if the rubber was taken off again, you would find it was the shape of Fig. 36. The bag should now be air-tight, and partly filled, so that you have only to put a weight on the wide end, and gauge the height with a piece of board, and you will very soon see if it goes down a pin-hole will empty it in a couple of hours, so we must take care not to have any pin-hole in If it is not so, examine fact, it must be tight. carefully for the defect, and if there is any
this
; ;
A WRITING TABLE.
difficulty
241
about finding
1
it,
make a
hole in the
drawing
foot.
of leg
at Fig. 3,
all the air to escape then fix the cock, which must have a flange to it, for the purpose of screwing to the wood with wood screws. Then fill with common gas, and without turning off the cocks, put jour nose all round and over the bag, and you cannot fail to find the escape. A dab with the glue brush and a tack or two
will soon
off
make
it all
right.
When perfect,
take
and flange, glue the American leather front and back, put in a few brass tacks for ornament, and to keep the corners from rubbing, hinge a little shelf about 9 inches from the wide end, to hold the weights put the cock on again with a little white lead, and nicely letter it " Oxygen." If you intend to use the
the cock
, ;
The full width of table-top is 2 feet 6 and it projects over the square part of leg 1 inch at each side. The legs must be turned to one size and pattern, and mortised The end top rails for the end and side rails. are 6 inches deep the lower rail is shown in Fig. 3 the top and bottom pieces are 1} inches by f inch. A bead is run down the centre of each piece, and both are bored at
inches,
;
equal distances for the small turned spindles, which are two inches long between shoulders
these spindles are
rails.
and the tenons and accurate made a true be on the rails, must fit, and should be cramped and glued together.
The mortises
bag
A WRITING TABLE.
By ELECTRON.
JHE
is
a new design, and will be found a very useful piece of furniture in a small dining or sitting room. At each end is a folding leaf, which when opened forms a
dining or occasional table, and
for writing, the centre pait,
lifted
by and the rail to which top of centre part of table is hinged is 3 inches by 1 inch, with two beads worked on it. The two rails, 2 inches by 1 inch, must have a rebate, inch square, worked on the inside, for the bottom A rail, 2 inches by 1 inch> of box to rest on. must also be put across the centre, and mortised into the top end rails this is for the purpose of strengthening the bottom of box. There is only one side lower rail, which is fixed in centre of end lower rails, so as to be
The
inch,
when
;
folded the
when
the table
is in
use.
AH
into
when used
hinged,
is
the
side rails
must be accurately
fitted
which
is
on each side
formed, and
left
underneath
it
this,
a box or well
is
quite
safely
may be used
if
and they should be together. cramped glued and Fix eight triangular blocks under top rails, with a bead worked across the centre two of these are shown on Fig. 1. The bottom of box should next be fixed it is ^ inch thick, and rests on the rebates cut in the two top side rails it may be of mahogany, left the natural colour of the wood, or of pine
their respective mortises,
; ; ;
preferred
in any case, the wood must be very dry and well-seasoned, especially the leaves. Fig. 1 is a side view of table on a scale of
1
it
is in five
foot 3 inches
by
inch to the foot, and Fig. 2 a section, f inch to the foot, of the box in centre opened for
writing.
the two pieces at a a are 2| inches by 2 feet 6 inches, and the centre piece
2 feet 6 inches 2 feet 2 inches
1
The
legs are
made
out of a piece of
by
2 feet 6 inches
each piece
is
inches square and 2 feet 6 inches long the parts left square at top and bottom have
'2\
wood
inch thick
4.
shown
full size in
Fig.
1
The centre
by
router.
vol.
m.
(n.s.)
242
A WRITING TABLE.
^^
w
Scale
^
1^-1 Foot
FIG.
FIC.2. Section, of Table open-far-writmg
'
I.
FIG.
4-.
Joint
cut.
A.A.Ta/lSize
m
F
I
are half-lapped, to prevent dust getting through. The two pieces (a a) must be jointed, as shown
in Fig. 4,
and fixed on the end rails, as shown The two leaves are jointed, as in Fig. 1. shown in Fig. 4, and hinged by back-flap hinges on the underside. The corners of the two leaves are cut off about 2 inches each way, and the whole of the top is chamfered round on the upper side. Two brackets are fixed
at each end, for the purpose of
keeping the
leaves open
it
it is
hinged Three
they are hinged, and when folded are flush with the square part of legs, allowing the leaves to hang down. A brass castor is off fixed on each leg, and the whole is cleaned
;
or four notches
under
1
side,
rails),
shown
"With this operation our we are rewarded in useful and the addition to our home of a very satiseminently tasteful piece of furniture, an and utility that result when we consider
factory
AMATEUR CONJURING.
243
Fig. 14)
and by
moving
end, the
EAR LET.
to
it,
PEOMISED
not despise
opens the end, and the coin slips into the hand. The box end is shut ; and if this is well made, no one can detect the " fake." The second thing is a prepared card. All that you have to do is to take a card, and make
pressure of
it
and very
trick.
effective
slit in
I will
shilling
that
is
all
the
apparatus
First, required for this experiment. you will want a piece of apparatus that is commonly called a " rattle-box," which you can
articles
required.
Now
buy
shop in Church Street, as a rule, to mention names in connection with my articles, but I cannot refrain from praising the excellence of workmanship of the few things I have had occasion to buy from this firm. As I have just mentioned, you can obtain it for Is. 6d., but there are some amateurs who will prefer to make the apparatus for themselves. It is an oblong box (Fig. 13) with a false the back end bottom, about J inch in depth false bottom is used to The to open. made hold a slip of tin or zinc, which is made so that it may rattle when shaken, and thus deceiving
;
mine always calls the " gag " "Ladies and gentlemen, the experiment that I am about to make (a experiment which always takes) is that of the flying money. Now money silver and gold especially has a habit of flying, to which most of you can bear witness. But what I want to show you more particularly
of
:
make it travel in fact, I can go a long way, which is more than some of you can say, I fancy. I have here a small box, which is perfectly harmless, and can be examined by anyone who is anxious to catch me in a trap. In fact, " it is all wood," as the boy said when he cracked his head with a
is
that
I can
make
it
the audience.
The section of the box is shown in Fig. 14. There are various arrangements for preventing One arrangement is the slip from rattling. shown in Fig. 15. A minute pin, passing from
the outside of the box,
of zinc is fastened
is
Now I want to borrow a two-shilling What's that you say, sir ? Not conjuring ? Tou lend me one, and see if I can't make Ah well, we will let that it vanish in no time.
beam.
piece.
!
pass.
Thank
you.
Now
please
observe
fastened to a piece of
;
have here an ordinary pack of cards, and you may examine them as much as you like. Ah
unbelieving
will
and the
is
slip
as
usual.
at
Never
last,
by a screw
at
as I
Please
down
in use,
when not
which
That
place
will do.
it
Don't
me
see
it.
Now
please
by the spring.
When the
zinc is required
and he can
rattle to his
explain
print.
If
it
Now we
in,
end
to
open.
and give it to me." Here I may just say a few words concerning the pack of cards. If the amateur is used to " forcing " the cards, let him, by all means, use an ordinary pack. But if he be a novice, he may use what is called a " forcing pack," which
inside this envelope,
consists usually of only three different cards
you look
fit
at Fig. 13,
you
ends
queen of hearts,
but
if
five of spades,
and seven
of
;
through one end, then pass a pin through the sides, as seen at b (Fig. 14), and the side will work on a pivot ; so that, as soon as
Drill a small hole
It is
much
easier to use
is
pressed,
it
he does not "play his cards well," there is a great deal more danger of being caught by that " doubting Thomas " before mentioned.
244
Messrs.
A MA TE UR CONJURING.
Theobald
'will
Observe, I
afraid, sir
seal
ask
that
twenty-stone gentleman to
"
!
on
to
it.
Don't be
it
When
show
to
audience, replace
with the
slit
in the
your edge
F C
I
14
F
'
*=
^^S^
1
* C
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF FIG. 13 RATTLE-BOX COMPLETE. FIG. 14. A, SCREW TO SECTION OF BOX FASTEN THE TIN SLIP B, PIVOT ON WHICH THE END OF THE BOX OPENS TO ALLOW COINS TO SLIP OUT INTO THE PERFORMER'S HAND C, PIN, WHICH ON BEING PRESSED RAISES THE (D) CATCH TO ALLOW THE END TO OPEN AND ALSO (e) THE SLIP OR RATTLE F, SPRING WHICH KEEPS SLIP IN PLACE G, HOLE IN WHICH CATCH FITS. N.B. BV PRESSURE OF PIN C, BOTH THE CATCH (D) AND THE SPRING (F) ARE RAISED AT ONCE. FIG. 15.- -PLAN OF BOX.
; ;
; ; ;
^^ D
F IC. i5.
J)
^
(?
_
-m_
c
i
-4r
F
"Now, is there a gentleman present that weighs twenty stone or so ? the heavier the better. Please watch this part of the trick very closely. I place the florin in the box so. Will
it
you believe
that, sir
You
is
;
will
Thank
all
you.
"Now
am
!
florin
pass
may
be
really there.
Kindly
Certainly
hold
not.
it.
Now, I
One, two, from that box into the envelope. Shake the box. It does not Pass three. rattle. Pray open it. See, the box is empty. Now, you, sir, open the envelope, if you please.
take the envelope with the card in, and show it except myself. You will know it again ? to all
it
What, the florin nut inside! Let me see. Why, went with such force that it has gone right
245
See
is it
not so
Thank
you,
SOME
was the weight that did it." That is the trick. A more elaborate version is as follows The card is drawn from the An empty envelope is pack, and replaced. shown and sealed. The envelope is sat on just the same, and the money taken from the box. The sequel is that the card is found missing from the pack the envelope is opened, and the money and card found^ therein, as in
It
:
CHAPTERS
ON
DWYER,
B.A.
-Simplicity of
Up
to
now many years since I first saw work turned out something like that shown in Figs. 1 to 4. that time I was acquainted only with
is its
the
first
version.
plain turn-
FIGS.
I,
2,
3,
AND
4.
EXAMPLES
OF ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
Even this simple trick demands due rehearsal otherwise the amateur must expect iailure, and prepare to be " sat upon " himself by ridicule as
weighty as the heavy gentleman referred
to.
ing,
beautiful
and I could scarcely believe that the work which I was shown was actually turned. I thought it might have been done by a carver, but not by a turner.
246
The process was at last explained to me by a kind old friend who was very clever at such work.
Its simplicity astonished
all
but there
is
some-
how an
and
it
amateur possessed
of a lathe
and
slide-rest,
who
is
f$
Jo
op
O _oo
m
ooo 300
o o 2 O OQO
ooift
F C 5 Gmrtg
l
a gena"al
oooooooo
Oo ocooooopJJJJjo
idea,
cHuow nrramijaubal
.oo>ooouoooo
>o
SOOOOOOOOOO^^
nc.6
DiFtswri_plate, quarter sixe
Sere
7bo/
<
C 7 Eccentric cutter.
the idea of
make or use them, I conceived making them for my lathe. They have now been in working order for some time, and turn out excellent work, as can
skill either to
few weeks, fit up his lathe for doing work shown here cutting cog-wheels, doing fluting and many other jobs unattainable by the
can, in a
the
ordinary method.
who
be seen from the engravings. The whole cost of my outfit, omitting lathe
and
slide-rest,
course, for
This was, of
for a finished
and
'2,
it
will
consist of
247
is
great regularity.
grooves for a driving band, and the tool-holder moved to and from the centre by means of a screw, while the tool is secured by a small set
Now, a large part of simple ornamental turning consists of such circles. If we draw circles on the surface a certain distance apart, they look nothing, but if they are sunk into the wood with
a pointed
screw. Motion is given to it by means of an overhead motion, which is essentially some means of transmitting motion from the fly-wheel to the
eccentric cutter held in the slide-rest, without
tool,
having
the
bands
so
as
to
interfere
with
An
we
work
manipulation.
unless
were seen.
of
"We
stuck
;
may
take
it,
then, that
Given
of
a piece
circles
wood
to the face-plate to
sizes, but whose size, distance apart, and depth can be regulated with the greatest nicety and exactness A general outline of the way in which this is done is shown at Fig. 5.
The overhead should also have some arrangement to keep the band always " taut " a fixed band would not do, as between the fly-wheel and headstoek pulley, as the eccentric cutter being traversed, the band should have play enough to follow it. Having premised by these remarks, I will, in a future number, give exhaustive directions for making (1) the eccentric cutter, (2) the
;
The wood
off
is
glue, or otherwise.
is
taken
make
which prevents the mandrel from revolving. To this clear, I must mention that the pulley
at equal distances apart, as seen in Fig. 6,
ORGAN
BUILDER."
Pipes.
a point falling into one of these holes prevents the mandrel from revolving until released. An
IV. Wood
put into the slide-rest and the desired eccentricity being given to the tool, it is brought by means of the slide-rest handles to face any desired part of the wood, and a revolving motion being given to it, it is moved forward until it cuts a circle in the wood.
eccentric cutter is then
N
tion.
we had
the
method of the
collection of the
wind
In this we take in hand the construction of the sound-producing section, which receives the air already provided, and sends forth tone,
both loud and soft, to hold enraptured the thousands of sympathetic listeners who may, perchance, be assembled to hear the instrument performed upon by a master hand. In the
A atop
is
it
going any
further,
revolved by hand a
cut (the stop
preventing
operation
it
is
carried
mechanism
have
to those
of
the pipes
we
shall use
in our
Now, I am
written
is
unintelligible
who know
organ, but I shall give some idea as to the construction and scales of the many stops frequently
nothing of such matters, but the chief difficulty will probably be found in not knowing what the eccentric cutter is like, and how motion is given
to
it. It is essentially a disc revolving on an axle with a tool-holder on its face, which may be at the centre or any desired distance from it. Fig. 7 gives a notion of what it is like. The axle is
met with in our church organs so that should anyone feel disposed to attempt the building of a larger instrument, he should have a wider selection of scales from which to choose he will thus have the means whereby he may increase both volume and variety of tone. The reason why I have advised our energetic amateur to obtain the metal pipes ready made
; ;
248
A B
xe
FIC.3*.
U0i-1A.
FIC32
Scale 3in
-1ft.
249
is
octaves, and flutes, are tuned an octave higher than the unison stops and the C C of each series would be 4 feet long. In these stops,
;
up
to the top
Each pipe is perby a small hole through the metal, halfway between the mouth and the top, which produces a quality of tone obtainable from no
ordinary 4 feet open stops.
forated
of
if
is
This quality
and I am sorry to say even some professionals. There is no great difficulty in the making of wood pipes. The main secret of good
amateur
voicers,
sound (acoustically speaking) the second harmonic introduces a stop called a twelfth. This stop is never seen in organs containing less than twenty stops. Two-feet tone stops sound two octaves above
4-feet stops
The
the
first
harmonic
tone
lies
in the
accurate
adjustment of the
;
good material,
of as
1 6, 8, 4,
The various stops are spoken and 2 feet tone stops they are
;
pedal organ
nitude,
it
is
The
16-feet
standard
length of
the
longest pipe of
the
This is C C on the key-board, different series. the second ledger line below the stave in the bass clef in music.
Eight-feet tone stops are the unison or foun-
tone can be produced by stopping an 8-feet open pipe, in the same way as the stopped 4-feet
under this heading an open pipe 8 feet long would be required to sound C C. It does not follow that the pip* s
dation stops of all organs
;
sounded the 8-feet tone. In many of our large church and cathedral organs, containing fifty or stxty stops, a 32-feet tone stop (two octaves below the unison) is used on the pedals and in
;
the finest organ in the world, lately gone abroad, a 64-feet tone stop (full length) had a place
down
amongst the 140 knobs in the console. Having given some idea as to the speaking
length of the various stops, I will describe the
C,
it
way
in
to pro-
have a pipe 8
stopped pipes.
the pipe
is
case of
(the inside
of that note)
although at
is
C C
it
an 8-feet tone pipe, because it gives the same note as an open pipe 8 feet long. The open diapason, gamba, dulciana, salcional, and claribella are the commonest specimens of 8 feet opens while stopped diapasons, gedacts, and doppel flutes are stopped pipes, sounding the same length of tone.
called
;
set
it
The
from front to back The measurements of each note internally. with the diagram are so given as to need the cross lines are the no explanation here The stopped speaking length of each semitone. diapason and open diapason, down to tenor C,
;
250
will be constructed from this scale. Fig. 32 is the scale for the lowest thirteen notes of a wood open diapason, and is made out of J-inch stuff,
and depth (4 inches by 4f inches deep;, making the other side of the piece square with the front.
7J inches long by 6 inches wide. This is the C C. In our case, however, we shall only require the notes from G G upwards from this
size of
scale,
Mark
first),
off one length of block (6 inches for the and from the top end make lines at 4 and
mahogany
square these
and Fig. 31
will
be used in continuation.
down
two
wide by 4 inches deep). Being thus far prepared with working scales, we suppose that the open diapason is to be made of wood. The first thing to be done is to glue
thick stuff for the blocks. The G G, and will, with the semitone above, require blocks 6 inches long. The four notes above will have blocks 5 inches long,
largest note is
up
pieces of
through the log, with the excepan inch. As the blocks diminish in size, these kerfs will be made deeper the top note leaves \ inch uncut. The piece between the two lines is called the throat. Now cut right through the 6-inch line, and the piece thus
lines right
tion of \
detached
is
the
first
block,
making a
By
carefully
planing three pieces of 1^-inch stuff, A\ inches wide, 2 feet 10 inches long, with a piece of \ inch mahogany on the front side, same length and width, the depth of the pipe (4 inches) may be obtained. (All blocks must be faced with mahogany). The pieces need not of neces-
Fix the remainder in the gauge it to the width and depth of the next semitone higher on the scale, and work it up in precisely the same manner as I have just described.
throat.
and on the
pipes
Next prepare the sides for the bodies of the from G G to C C f-inch stuff will be
:
used, \ inch at
C C
be \\ inches thick any number of thinner pieces may be used, only the thicker the stuff
sity
;
will finish
^ inch thick.
will
The length
the less joints will be made. Glue up pieces together in this manner for every half-dozen
notes, which will constitute a convenient working length for the blocks. At G, above tenor C, the blocks up to the note will all be made of
be 6 feet 6 inches, and the next four 6 feet. It may seem rather odd that there should be more than one pipe the same length, considering that
the notes are entirely different
mahogany, thus saving the trouble of using more than one thickness of stuff. A piece of H-inch stuff comes in for this note and when
;
but it must be remembered that we have already agreed that these pipes are to show in the end bays of the case, which would have a decidedly queer appearance
;
if
all
unequal
and so on wherever the different thicknesses will allow. Made-up blorks should be handscrewed together until the
stuff,
lengths.
notes,
With regard
we
work advances.
glue
Now
quite hard, to make sure of a good joint. plane the mahogany face quite true, out of winding, straight from end to end, straight
is
allow f inch wider for the largest notes more than the actual depth of the block, and bear in mind that the pipe side
is
and square one side irom this front. This faced side and front must be preserved until the length is used up. Mark the direction in which
across,
the front
fastened to the side of the block, not across many hundreds of pipes have been
;
the
mahogany
it
and plane
to the
with a
front
bottom this will be found a great advantage later on.) The ends need not be quite square from front to back, but on no account must the back be higher than the front gauge
;
Plane one side of each piece it is not round across), and shoot one edge straight and square wet the surface that has not been smoothed, and cover the other side with a coating of thin hot size. Any flukey place or knots should be
simple
little fact.
covered with leather, as the latter are often this would spoil the note inclined to drop out
;
2.51
With a f inch
;
chisel,
is
bottom piece
of the block,
some care must be bestowed on this operation, as the piece may split any way but the way in -which it is required. Hold the chisel with the bevelled part to the back of the block, and tap it a little from one side, and then from the other the piece should then come out
;
Before shooting the front, a piece of i-inch stuff, 1 inch wide, \ inch longer than the width of the block, should be put belength
pipe a
and
tween the sides at half the distance of the this keeps them apart, and makes the
;
trifle
A pipe smaller
to give a
moderately clean.
in the centre
is
bound
the former
is
the
better way,
porarily,
must be exactly the same width sides on a true board, faced edges downwards, glue the block between them at the bottom end, and fix a handserew on,
as the block.
and
bad note. All pipes up to 2 feet long should have this strut. Now gauge the depth of the block outside the sides, at the ends and middle plane them so that the back edges are T^ inch wider in the
;
middle than the ends. This bulging should not be straight from the middle to the ends, but a
general round the length of the pipe. Bore through the back the holes for the \\ inch nails to pass through (6 inches apart), and put the
nails into their places
;
till
dry
and put it between the sides at the top end, to keep them apart exactly the same distance as the bottom pass a brad through each side into
;
size
the
;
inside
after
it till set.
While these are drying, cut the fronts and backs out of material the same thickness as the
sides, remembering that now there are \\ inches added to the width of the block. Each front and back should be f inch wider than the dead width. The fronts for the six low notes may be 9 inches shorter than the sides. Lay the pieces
of pipe already connected on the bench, with tbe bottom end of the block against the bench stop (if the stop is an iron one, or a wooden
having fitted the back on dry knock a nail at each end partly home, so as to be able to put the piece on in the same position again. Now glue the edges, and very quickly nail the back to the sides no nails should be put into the bottom part of the block. Prepare some stuff for the lips (b, Fig 35) for G Gr and the next note 6 inches wide, and 5 inches for the next four following ones get
;
;
them out
of
inch
mahogany
in this instance,
one with iron prods in, put a piece of wood between the block and the stop the marks do not look very pretty on the ends of pipes or anything else), and plane over the already short
;
to give the pipe a more ornamental appearance, but in other cases pine will be used. Plane one
edges.
to do
two pieces
of J-inch
mahogany
10 inches
long, 2 inches wide, strictly parallel, and place one across the block, and the other from side to
side at the top
to
Eebate the back down \ inch from the top edge, inch deep, mark | inch from the top front edge, and on the bottom edge gauge inch from the back, and plane the front on a bevel to meet Finish it off nice and smooth these two lines.
with
fine
glasspaper;
end of the pipe. Look from one the other, and see if the two pieces are exactly
;
long, 5 inches wide, in the same way, and cut the lengths into small pieces \ inch longer than
on a level if not, plane away the side at the top end (not the block, under any consideration) until the winding sticks come here. If the sides
are put on correctly, the block should only require one shaving off; this is why the grain of the mahogany faciDg is made to plane from
they are to be attached. Measure \ of the width of the block of each pipe with a pair of
top to bottom
if it
mark the distance on each side above the block stick a small brad a little way in on this mark, glue the piece of lip, and lay it across the pipe so that \ inch projects over each
compasses, and
;
plane, no matter
how
a shaving
it
took
off,
side,
lip
comes up to
232
the brads, and fix
side at each end.
The
a foot like
wind from
the end
otherwise
it is
Now make a tongue on the bottom end of the front \ inch long, f inch thick, to fit exactly into the rebate made on the lip. Take particular
care the top edge of the lip and the shoulder across the front form a good joint, or the look of the pipe will be spoiled.
a seetion of the largest size we shall use ; turned out of a piece 1 f-inch yellow deal, with a pin 1 inch long at one end, and a 1 inch
is
As the
feet.
pipes increase in
As a
rule, eleven
sizes
stops,
varying from
H inches
externally, with a
Prepare some stuff for the ears (c, Fig. 35), cut out of f-ineh mahogany, If inches wide; the best way to make these is to prepare sufficient length to supply the four ears for two pipes.
centre to f inch and a tV inch hole. The six smallest sizes are turned out of mahogany. To
anyone not
articles
in
possession of
a lathe,
at a
these
reasonable rate.
fixed in the
Square one end quite true, and put it to a line on the side A-inch below the top edge of the block, with the bottom edge of the mahogany running flush with the under side of the front
hold
it
Ascertain
centre-bit
mark with a
a
pin -bit
bore a
in this position,
the shape of the lip bevel on the front ceases will give the top end of the ear, cross-cut one length off, fit
it
number of small holes within the circle, and chop them into one another with a gouge. It
would be as well
to fix a
is
its place,
and
fix
it
the lip into the sides of the pipe. Be careful not to split the ears, or another will have to be made. Now form the caps (d, Fig. 35) ; these are made out of f-inch mhogany the same
length, and a
to cover.
trifle
any
Now
trifle
The
wider than the blocks they are inside is planed true, and ^-inch
way
true
of
a piece
;
in e, Fig. 35. The handiest making them is to set out a number on of mahogany board, with each end shot
hollow them out, and then separate them, and i-hoot the bottom ends. The small aperture on the inside top end must not be made for
smoothing plane two shavings will be sufficient. I have omitted one most important detail: that is, 18 inches of the bottom end of the front should be smoothed over before it is glued to the sides. All superfluous glue that squeezes out between any two pieces should be washed off with a sponge and
with a
hot water.
Figs. 33, 34,
a while. Each cap will be fixed dry to the pipe with three l-inch screws round heads look best; thny will not be fastened permanently
until ihe pipes
an operation
Fig. 35)
open diapason, supposing it to be the deadspeaking length. In our case we shall require 18 inches added to this measurement. Fig. 35 is the lower end and the component parts for
the bottom of the pipe.
The
fastened to the top of the outside of the cap this is called the beard it is simply a piece of f-inch mahogany \\ inches wide, glued to the cap
;
diagrams correspond with one another and, I think, with the drawings and directions, an ample idea as to the construction of the six lowest notes of the open diapason will have
with a couple of flat headed screws passed into it from the inside. Take a smooth shaving off the cap before fixing the beard. Clean off the top and bottom ends of the pipes with a smoothing plane. Each pipe is provided with
been given.
In ordinary
(i>elow
stops,
G G)
away the
253
will
ROE,
Jun., Silver and Bonours Medallist, City and Guilds of London Institute.
quite an ornament."
there is every reason to believe. opinion candidly expressed, I venture to place the article referred to before you this month.
In the first place, it is useful, because forms a receptacle for all those little pieces of paper which it is often
it
B,
SECTION OF
BEAD.
made.
fret,
The
is
simply a
of
hand of
of small
that
destroyer
the house-
cut and
mounted on a backing
wood
large things,
maid.
bead fixed round the edge the front piece has a bead planted on the back-board, the fret being
;
The second
tion I
considera-
fitted in afterwards.
This
is
a brief description,
am
quite willing to
leave inthereader'shands,
feeling comparatively sure
but will serve to make my meaning clearer. The two frets may be cut in holly wood or maple, the back-boards and beads in rosewood or tulip
that
wood
and well
this as
when
polished.
;
Of course, I make
well.
It is
suggestion only
to
may venture
to
add
list,
not always
"lastly"
the
but, at
any
rate,
my
suggestion gives an
tends
to
a great desideratum.
The foregoing
doubt form
in hand,
will
no
whole elevation and half elevation <if back-board, the pattern on which repeats on the reverse side section through edges of each giving beads shown at a and b.
full size,
sufficient in-
It
is
in
figures,
and therefore we
drawings.
254
ME TAL- TURNING.
The
on
;
on backs, to prevent any glue exuding between the pattern. If thought well of, the back-boards might be polished prior to fixing frets but the fret, in this case, must be screwed from the back, by means of a few
;
pin
or two being,
curve.
perhaps, advisable
may be
bend and
acted
fix
The following hint upon with advantage first the bead round curve, and then
:
small screws.
By going
this
way
to
work,
fit-
we
shall ensure
more accurate
The beads are best worked on the edge of a piece of stuff the same
thickness as the finished width of the
bead,
all is
off.
When
of a
hinged
by means
of
and
thin
or
cloth,
cut
a couple of
supporting
is
the
front,
making
fold inside.
to fasten.
make
my
when completed
outlay of time
and
patience
will -
be
considered
ample.
METAL-TURNING.
By
many
by
which it is accomplished, we find ample cause and justification of the popularity of this branch of work among amateurs. There are very
few people of mechanical tastes, whether in humble or in wealthy circumstances, who do not possess a turning-lathe of some kind, and
employ some of their leisure hours in the production of work of beauty
FRONT HECE, FULL
SIZE.
A,
bECTlOM OF BEAD.
or of utility.
METAL-TURNING.
The character
largely governed
possessed,
of the turning that is
255
done
is
geared.
lathes,
Much
and the
is
metal work
practice
is
by
of
unassisted
and
Between
almost
turning
properly to be
:
recommended
wholly in wood and the high-class productions of Manchester and London, there is an immense difference and between the simple chunk of deal, and the block of black wood, or ivory,
:
made and
fitted
several reasons
as,
acquire skill in
correct
knowledge
or the casting of
less difference
;
is
scarcely
In hand-
most comprehensive sense, is one and peculiarly adapted to the tastes, the pockets, and the skill of mechanicians of all classes, whether professional or amateur.
the term in
that
is its
excellently
than in slide-rest turning, and useful knowledge is thereby instinctively gathered which is not so readily acquired in the automatic methods of
turning.
But there
is
In
ing that cannot possibly be done in any reasonable space of time in an ungeared lathe.
one branch only of the extensive art that of metal turning. Yet even this involves so many
special divisions,
Heavy
and requires
so
many
tools,
it
work, work of large diameter, and work requiring, for economy's sake, the taking off of
deep roughing
turning.
difficult to
cuts,
be necessary to treat it generally in a somewhat elementary fashion. There are great differences between the work of the light hand lathe and that of the massive power lathes of our workshops ; and there is a good deal of special work commonly done in amateur lathes which is seldom done in workshops where special machines are employed. I shall, therefore, in these articles endeavour to write more in the interests of amateurs than of
foot-lathe
;
without
or the
will then
slipping of the strap or cord occurring lathe will go off too fast,
workmen who have ample appliances at command more for those who use a small foot-
and pull up the lathe. Only small diameters and light cuts can be attempted in such a lathe. In a back-geared lathe, on the contrary, work as large as the swing of the lathe, even including that afforded by the greater range of a bed, can be done with little difficulty; manifestly a very
important advantage, as in the turning of flywheels, pulleys, flanges, the boring of large
cylinders,
latlw in kitchen or
whose work
workshop. for metal turning must depend on means, and driving power available. Certainly it is always preferable to drive a metal turning lathe by power and for an amateur, nothing is so convenient as
lies in
mammoth
The
a small gas-engine.
is
But
Then,
this
is
a foot-lathe larger than 5-inch centres, and for most of the purposes required by the average amateur, one of 4-inch centres is more handy. Lathes smaller than 4-inch are not to be recommended, because of their lightness and
and the taking of heavy roughing cuts. at some time or another to cut screw-threads, and therefore a lathe of screw-cutting type is much to be preferred to one fitted with a slide-rest operated simply by hand, or by rack and pinion. It is impossible to cut a long screw by any other means than that afforded by a slide-rest operated What is termed screw by leading screw. chasing, meaning by that the starting and cutting of threads with chasing or comb tools, is only applicable to threads of an inch or two in length, and a traversing mandrel is only
leading
want
of
range.
Between
4,
4,
and 5-ineh
should be back-
3 or 4 by amateur turners.
a small lathe
'256
BOW
TO DRIVE A LATHE
in
longitudinal and
HOW
This arrangeby back shaft. ment adds considerably to the cost of a lathe, and is one which is practically useless for amateurs. The cross-traverse can always be worked by hand easily, and the longitudinal either by rack or leading screw. I should not select what is termed an orna-
A.
TEOROLD.
Introduction.
HERE can be
mental lathe for general work. Except for its special functions, an ornamental turninglathe is a nuisance and it is not difficult to attach an overhead, and a drilling spindle, and a division-plate to an ordinary screw-cutting lathe, and so increase its range of usefulness.
own
wind models already described at some length in the pages of this magazine should not be applied for the benefit of those who have larger schemes and more important objects before them than mere prettiness in automatic
Lilliputian toys.
division -plate
is
a very
useful
addition,
Some
of
my
rendering the lathe serviceable for a very extensive range of operations in dividing out, and
in gear-cutting, milling, etc.
beyond the
As a
who cannot
well afford
them
upon, although
the expense
lathe, let
back-geared
screw-cutting
foreshadowed.
me say that a good deal of light usemodel work can be done in a wood-turning lathe with a bed of iron or of wood, using a
ful
to inquire about a
;
more
another has
to drive his
common
slide-rest
When
was asked
out-
to describe the
working of a
T rest
is
bolted, with
;
few small
enlarge
hexagonal nut, or wing nut underneath and when turning work having a greater length than the range of the slide, it will have to be undamped, moved along, and reset in the new position required. Plenty of useful amateur metal-turning of alight character is done thus. In the next article I shall speak of the
different kinds of metal of the
etc.,
my
but as I
have just
manner
in
which
tools, speeds,
for turning
characteristic differences.
'
'
of potassa-alum water,
always keep ready for use a 6-ounce bottle made by adding two or
should not be enlarged, or why the principle running through them should not be carried on till our cisterns in the roof are filled with water raised by the wind, or our lathes driven, or our wood cut, or our hay chaffed, or our roots pulped, and a dozen things beside done by the one and the same inexpensive power. Just as a bicycle is cheaper by its food than a horse, so is a windmill cheaper than an engine by its fuel and even if we cannot always count upon the wind being at command whenever we desire it, there is on the average of days air
;
Use equal
quantities of
enough
stirring to do
and fresh water for mixing your plaster. It hardens the plaster, and keeps it from shrinking and after vulcanizing, your plaster will not
;
On
these grounds, I
in hand,
with a letter from the Editor in front of me, to do what I can in obedience to his wishes to help
a far-off dweller in the Orkneys (who, with the
stick to the
rubber."
CIRCULAR
257
acumen
knows
Amateur Work
may commence by
my
and disconnections being arranged by a simple method hereafter to be described. Everything must be of the strongest character, as the rattle and jar is considerable. Good work
at the outset will repay itself many times over, while indifferent fittings will be a fruitful source of inconvenience, vexation, and expense. I
my
furnish
with any description of his surroundings. He has told me what he wants, but, with a vast amount of faith in my powers of second sight, has left me in the dark respecting what
me
he actually possesses. My guesses, therefore, may be utterly wrong. I suppose he has a turning lathe, or he would not wish to know how to make the wind drive it. I also suppose he has a circular saw bench, for the same reason. Yet there are one or two things I should like to have known for instance, is the workshop a
;
over
lathe
it ?
Has he much
?
floor
room ?
close together ?
in a hole or
upon a
presume that our friend is ready to incur a certain amount of expense in fitting up wind gear for actual motive power. He may and probably will be willing to do a good deal of the fitting up in his own shop, and with his own hands but still the cost must be somewhat considerable for materials and such ironwork as must be purchased, probably only from a distance. I cannot enter very easily upon figures, but doubtless an estimate can be procured of the parts needed, without much trouble, before he commences operations. One of the first difficulties with which we shall be confronted is the
;
all
ance.
mistake,
of which points are of some importjump in the dark often leads to a yet jump I must at several conclusions
to advise
It
is
imperative that
shall
command the wind from whatever quarter may be blowing otherwise we might possibly
;
on the construction of a particular machine for a special work, to stand in a place the characteristics of which I am left in ignorance. It would always be a great assistance if correspondents would kindly state
as
when asked
The sails must be well out of the shelter of any building, and hence must stand somewhat To build an actual mill, or anything high.
approaching such a structure,
of the question.
is
many
details as possible,
altogether out
possible to be guessed at
when asking
and papers upon subjects specially to be of use I am glad to be able to enlarge the scope of former papers on the inquiry of readers of Amateur Work but it will, I hope, be plain from the foregoing remarks that these supplementary papers must more or less deal
to themselves.
;
possible, therefore,
it
will
be most conis
compatible for the work required upon the roof of the shop, as by this arrangement the sails will
gain
all
is
with generalities in the subject when the inquirer does not give a helping hand of detail as to the
speciality
wind gear for connection with the workshop will be well situated. If we are in possession of a single storied building, our
over, the
difficulties in fixing
be able at
Our
tiles
first
immediately overhead.
Having
laid bare
use of them.
There
is
saw in the same shop. The two must stand as near as can be side by side, and worked by straps from an overhead axle. This axle, in its turn, must be connected by another strap with the wind gear, connections
a space of about 6 feet wide, we fix four strong uprights to the rafters in such relative positions that as nearly as possible they may enclose a square of not less than 4 feet 6 inches each way.
These uprights should be 4 inches square, and be bolted firmly both to the beams running
across the roof as well as to the rafters.
1
Of
VOL.
III.
(n.s.
258
course,
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
it is absolutely necessary that the roof timbers should themselves be good and solid,
RULES.
(1).
upon them exerted by the mill sails will be considerable. If we are in any doubt upon the question of their strength, we must set to work to strengthen them, as a preliminary to any other proceedings, lest on some windy day the tiles, and finally the roof itself, should be brought to the ground. In length, these uprights of which we were speaking should not be less than 10 feet.
since the strain
and by an amateur
is
work meant
(2).
(3).
a workman who does not earn money by the parwork in which he competes. All articles in this competition must be received not later than April 29th, carriage paid, and addressed The Editor of Amatedr Work, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London, E.G. Each article must bear the name and address of the. competitor, and the number of the competition for which he enters.
(4).
Competitors desiring the return of their articles If (except MS. ) must enclose an addressed label.
the article
is
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By TEE EDITOR.
must be fully stamped if by rail, the name of the Railway Co. should be stated on the label. Every care will be taken, but the Editor does not
label
(5).
Dobbie
and
Co.,
Seed
The
hold himself responsible for articles sent decision of the Editor shall be final.
in.
Florists,
Rothesay,
Scotland,
me
the
twenty-fourth
annual
is
edition
their
It contains a
distinctly
amount
of
useful
information, and
The Amateur.
Street,
The March
part of this
Vevers' Half-plate Rapid Rectilinear Lens with detachable hood and a set of Waterhouse diaphragms
(the lens
is
of the finest
workmanship and
finish,
utility
happily
combined.
and guaranteed
The
prize in
this
instance
has been
awarded
to
Mr.
The
pattern
is artistic,
George
Pirie, 16,
Academy
difficult
of execution.
Catalogue.
Messrs.
me
Cox and
11,
Co., Fetter
ManuLane,
facturing
Opticians and
Electricians,
amateur
electricians will
find very
AMATEUR WORK
PRIZE SCHEME.
XI.
His for a very carefully and well-written paper. description, illustrated by figured drawings, is so complete in every detail that an amateur building from his instructions could hardly make a mistake. An extremely useful feature in Mr. Pirie's paper is a list of the wood required, giving the number of pieces, the length, width, and thickness of each, a reference to the drawing in which each is shown, the use to which each is applied, and the price. I shall, space permitting, publish this paper in the May Part of Amateur Work. Before this is in print, Mr. Pirie will have received his lens from Mr. 0. C. Vevers, of Leeds, and I have no doubt that he will find it entirely satisfactory.
The following
pri/.es
The second best paper, sent for competition, is by Mr. WH. Bradburne, Church Stretton, Salop, who was the
As no entries have been made which was for the best set
Prize Competition. Competition VII., of three platinotype prints, I have decided to make this a second prize in Competition VI., and have therefore much pleasure in instructing Mr. Vevers to forward to Mr. Bradburne one of his 9-inch burnishers with Bunsen burner complete.
1st Prize
1
1
fortunate winner
of
the
first
in
s.
ri.
1(1
2nd
3rd
,,
10
The
size of the
frame sent in must not exceed 25 inches by 20 inches. The material to be used is left entirely The following to the judgment of the competitor. points will be noted in awarding prizes, viz. the novel and artistic use of simple materials neatness and finish of work the suitability of the frame for general artistic effect. its proposed use
:
paper to be highly commended was sent in by Mr. N. L. Chalmers but in this case the details were not so fully worked out as in the papers above referred
;
One competitor somewhat misses the subject to. he sends in an excellent paper of the competition on the construction of a portable developing cabinet, and entitles his article " An Amateur Photographic Studio."
;
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
OPES- TO
259
Etching on Copper.
E. N. T. Griffith. The information you ask for, if given fully, would
:
A Few
Ideas in Woodwork.
of
In consequence
an unfortunate
ALL HEADERS.
157, had to be omitted. I now give Tiree-Fold Screen Charlie. Height 6 feet, width of them on this page, and a reference to each frame 2 feet 6 inches, will be the article in the last Part will make
which will be found on page occupy many pages of Amateur Work however, I will describe in brief the mechanical part of the work. The
artistic
all clear.
portion rests entirely in your I may mention that, before attempting this branch of the
with drawing.
ing wax, stopping-out varnish, tracing paper, and aquafortis. You will
purchase
the
copper
plates'
more
ought
total
to
be able
to easily
will
re-
interest. I can assure you that my advise you to carry the material (canvas colonial readers will always receive a or American cloth) over the junctions, full share of attention, because they allowing sufficient between the frames are the men who, more than others, to permit of their folding flat. Perhaps have to learn to help themselves. a paper or two dealing with screens Your suggestions shall be attended to, will appear when space can be afforded and I can promise you papers on for such. J. S. several of the subjects referred to. Re American Clock Query. You will find that " Brass Casting," I am sorry I omitted to give such and "How to Make a Furnace for necessary particulars. I must have Melting Small Quantities of Brass for written in a hnrry. It is a 35-hour Casting Chucks, etc.," has been fully and lever timepiece worked by spring, and clearly dealt with in Volume I. (New it is an old clock. P. Bessett. Series), page 242.
timber-yard will supply material, which may be of any of the ordinary furniture woods. I should
quire.
Any
Colonists and Amateur Work, H. A. Husband, M.D. (Manitoba). have read your letter with much
prepared and polished. The plate is covered with a ground composed of equal parts of asphaltum, Burgundy
first
pitch,
in
an earthen pipkin, and kept stirred until thoroughly mixed. Pour the
260
mixture into a basin of cold water, and
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
broader and deeper must the lines be
press
is
and
all
roll
the
made.
is
When
squeezed
tie it
complete,
the edges
must be
sur-
Make
it
into a ball,
and
as
a piece of old silk. Now follows: Place in an earthen pipkin heat the plate carefully over a clear about i ounce of sweet oil, add 3 ounces The plate must of resin and 2 ounces of beeswax. refer to is chloride of cobalt. A fire or spirit-lamp. not be overheated, which will be known Melt and work the ingredients well chemical thermoscope can be made by When together with a stick until thoroughly sealing in a glass tube a solution of by its becoming discoloured.
tightly in
Hygroscopic Chemical. Spectroscope "writes : " There is a certain chemical that is sensitive to atmospheric changes, becoming blue when it is going to rain, etc. Can you The chemical you tell me what it is?"
"
the ball of incorporated then pour into a basin backwards and forwards of cold water ; as it gets cold, work it with a quick action ; if the ground well with the hands the more it is does not spread easily, warm the plate worked the better it will be to use. If
sufficiently
heated, pass
it
chloride of
cobalt
in dilute
alcohol.
ground over
Subjected to a temperature of 40 to
00 degrees Fah., the solution becomes pink, and as its temperature is raised again, and proceed as before, until the it turns out brittle, break it up again to 100 or 90 degrees, it passes through surface is covered evenly and thinly. into the pipkin, and add more oil then various shades of purple, and finally The plate has now to be smoked this proceed as before. Having bordered becomes blue. The same salt applied may be done by holding it, face the plate, the strongest aquafortis to an artificial flower a rose, for downward, over a wax taper or oil- must be diluted with water and poured example renders it visibly hygroscopic. When the surface is evenly upon the plate this attacks those When the air is damp the rose is pink, lamp. Now portions of the plate laid bare by the and when the air is warm and dry the blackened it is ready for use. prepare a tracing of the subject to be etching needle. The bubbles of fixed rose will be purple or blue. A solution etched. Cut the tracing paper to the air are carefully brushed away with a of the same salt may be used as a place a piece of feather. When you think the acid has sympathetic ink. Bize of the plate
;
it
off
and
light
on the
ing,
top
of
examine
the
plate.
If
the
face
downwards.
Fix
it
with
pieces of soft
the
plate.
shades are found to be sufficiently bit in, they are covered, or stopped out
varnish.
series of
papers
of
with
the
subject
The
biting
" Glass
Glazing,"
Series),
Painting
and
Decorative
may
be
made
Take half
is
a small piece of sponge rub it well with powdered red chalk then with a piece of soft muslin rub the greater part of the colour from the surface. With a sharp pointed H. H. pencil, go over all the lines of the tracing with a strong pressure, and holding the pencil
;
process
is
appeared in Vol. V. (Old paper entitled " A completed, the Parlour Aviary," on page 553, Vol.
and a
cleaned with
oil of
turpentine,
VII., of the
same
Series.
in the lines
"Four Years'
should be no
(I gather
Subscriber."
in
There
clean
examination
good
difficulty
soldering
it is
rather upright.
When
the
transfer
lift
up the
remain fixed. Examine your work, and in the present No. of Amateur Work, If any of the lines have been overlooked you may, by making a little alteration the paper can be fixed down again, and in the sections, make your own plan. the omisBion rectified. The plate is If you cannot manage this, and you now ready for etching. With a finewrite me, through the Editor, I will try pointed needle (No. 1) go carefully Electron. to help you.
over the outline, using just sufficient
pressure to remove the ground.
the
from your query that it is new work you wish to solder), if you use strong spirits of salts and a hot Use a rather fine solder, say iron. 4 pounds tin to 2 pounds lead, as it gets grossed by contact with the zinc on the work. 1 am preparing an article, which I hope soon to submit to
the Editor, dealing clearly with
subject.
L. L.
the
With
all
the lighter
A. B. Clark
to
(Chingford).
It
the stamped and addressed envelope you have decided to buy, Gent referred to in your letter. You may No. 2 needle may be used for the and Co., Faraday Works, Leicester, send the article you refer to on aplighter shade, and the same point will will supply you. The cost of a threeproval. answer for the darker shades by pint Daniel cell is 3s. The price of making the lines closer together and line wires will depend upon the gauge increasing the pressure. Every line and the kind of insulation you require. LETTERS RECEIVED UP TO MAR. 13. must be kept distinct, and the most Price ranges from 4s. to 18s. 3d. per distant should be closer and more 100 yards Gent and Co.'s Catalogue, D. G. Tatloe; R. E. White regular than those in the foreground. which they supply post free, will give O. Meltzer; Alchemist; C. E. 1/. The greater the depth of shade the you all information. Ian. Otto Orno.
make a be cheaper
"Amber."
You
omitted to enclose
battery
on the
plate.
but
if
h'KtLSJLJN
CU Wlin
aiviHTe-uix
x *jjj
w **-
-*.
bsss
ta.)*BM
v^r
WAHIi. LOOK
T^srWo^
J".
>*,-,
or FArfeLS.
en
Jnl xV.
iH>btTt CoKpn.
i>.
AMt
CO.,
lnJ.,. JTe
ami
lfNMirne.
261
HOW
TO
is
when
and come
if,
to
it
carrying with
a collection.
insect,
Anyone who, in setting an has met with this accident, will well know
then,
@2<0
what I mean.
First,
f EPs
procure some
deal,
1
American white
mark
will
generally
last
by If inches
this will
make
inches
a sett board 12
on a badly made
board.
sett
by
inches.
The
old
When
down
it
by
and
used most extensively even now not only make an insect look
into^two pieces, 12
inches
by \\
inches.
Next
pieces
on to some \
mark
out two parallel lines | inch apart, and glue each of the pieces
of
means
the
of
access
for
parasites
which
of wood, 12 inches
by
have
FIC
4-.
the a
down
to
pieces
If
a' a"
which,
looks
course,
f inch.
to
far
better
prefer
you have
than the low sett and drooping wings of an English sett insect.
Section.
?\G.Z
Section,
toinch,orwhen
getting your wood, procure inch. When planed down, cut some 12-inch lengths of \ inch cork,
to
fit
I think an insect looks best when sett quite and on a high pin, and with the pin, of course, at an angle of about 70 degrees with the body.
fiat
space (Fig
of filling
The best material of which to make a sett is wood, and the best wood for the purpose is American white wood it is very soft, and gives easily for the pin. If this wood
board
;
squares of cork
down
cannot be obtained,
well.
not a good material to make a sett board, as not only is it much dearer than wood, but also is very difficult to work. Even
is Vol. III.
Cork
which case there is lees chance of the board harbouring insects. Fig. 2 shows the board complete, the dotted lines showing where to plane to if the setter prefer to have the insect with wings bent a little downwards. The following are a few sizes of
an
inch, in
sett boards,
length 12 inches.
(New
262
A WASH-HAND STAND.
all
A WASH-HAND STAND.
BEING THE FIFTH OF A SERIES DEALING WITH ARTICLES OF
Width
of groove.
1, If,
2-|, 3,
to r% inch
HOUSEHOLD
By ED.
C.
UTILITY.
and
\\, to 6 inches
f inch 4- to 4 inch
ROE,
T the
an insect. I daresay this but as quite a different process is generally described in boobs, and as some may not know this method, I will now try and make
to sett
bow
showing method is
ject of the
stand
I
known,
a design which
as being a
little
it
clear.
Let
it
it
me ask any
on
will
reader
who
is
afraid to undertake
an angle, as I said before, of about 70 degrees, and having inserted the pin into the
paper long enough
my
assurance that
of your insect, your thumb-nail down the centre (this prevents the edges of the paper from rubbing off the
scales
same angle, then take a thin to overlap the wings and after previously having run
ornamental
the
work
is
straight-
what kind
of
wood
to use
being a matter
Several popular
of
of
the
wings),
pin
it
just
above the
end,
b, in
the finger
by way
and
do.
By
inserting
attempt to direct the choice towards any particular material would be superfluous, and that
body as
made by
As soon as the wings are in position, down the strip at b, with the right hand. Next get a piece of paper largo enough to cover the rest of the wing, and pin down as in Fig. 3. Sometimes, by inserting a pin through a piece of
perceived.
both time and space would be wasted in consequence. With this theory I do not agree, my practical experience reason being simply this
:
pin
has taught that the facts are often the reverse of theory, and that the designer is, or should
be, the only person to express
an opinion regardsettle
ing
it under the abdomen, it affords a great advantage in holding up the body (see
design.
ventured to
upon
This sett board will be a great acquisition to the amateur entomologist, insomuch that it will enable him to mount the insect trophies captured
a variety of wood as the best for the purpose, the sundry suggestions I shall make later on being quite secondary. The choice has fallen
it will
be readily
very
rich
in
appearance,
and
during his summer rambles, and display to the full extent the gorgeous markings wherewith nature has endowed them. The specimens so
treated,
The
is
easily
worked
and with
apartment, and also give evidence that he finds solace in an innocent pursuit.
One
A WASH-HAND STAND.
and then coated with enamel paint, the uses and become almost household words another that may with advantage be adopted by those whose means are somewhat limited, and yet would like to have a piece of good-looking work, is to construct the framing and shelves in pine, which should be enamelled, using walnut for the doors, frets, and top backboard. If the colour of the enamel used be in accordance with the walnut, it will be found to have a good appearance, and not likely to offend the taste of the most critical. A suggested colour is dark peacock green. The use of marble for the top raises the cost considerably, but the advantages are very great
properties of which have
;
263
The whole of the framing should be mortised, and tenoned together but in no case should the mortises be cut through, only stubbed in, excepting where completely out of sight. About f inch will be a good depth to cut the mortises, the tenons being made to correspond. Careful attention should be paid to the details and sketches whilst setting out the stuff, the various settings back from the face of the work being rather numerous this does not cause any real difficulty, but only necessitates careful,
;
patient attention.
is
if
cleanliness
is
required,
at
Further dimensions
inch to a foot.
but temporary, and altogether unsatisfactory. Therefore it is recommended, cost what it may, to provide the stand with a marble top and the convenience afforded by such will be found to amply repay the additional
their best,
;
may be
drawn
to the scale of
The
expenditure.
is
be done before glueing up. may be treated as suggested, the sinking dying away 5 or 6 inches from the ground (section g, h).
course,
The bottom
of the legs
and
make up
the
is
After, or better
still,
when glueing
if
up,
it
wil]
resulting
piece
of
furniture
the system
about No.
10, is
less
time to complete
therefore
we
will
and tenons, wherever possible to do so, out of sight. There is probably little need for a
reminder being given to clean off the faces of all work below the general surface previous to
In accordance with my usual custom, a list is given below of the stuff required to complete the frame in question. The dimensions given of the width and thickness are finished sizes.
knocking together. "We may proceed now with the shelves, the outer dimensions of which are 2 feet long by
1
The top
shelf will of
so.
LENGTH.
ft.
WIDTH.
in.
THICK.
in.
NAMK.
in.
4. 2.
2.
1. 1.
o 2
1
6
if
1J
H H
l
14 14 14
.^
Legs.
Top
Side
rails.
rails.
rail.
Front middle
2
2
l
J
1*
].
1.
2
1
1
i i i
i
Back middle
Front bottom
rail.
rail.
rail.
Back bottom
2.
o.
5 a
being open in front but there is no reason why the under shelf should not be made a point of economy in this way a strip may be tongued and glued on to front edge of a piece of pine The ends of 1^ inches will be the proper width. the shelf may be treated in the same way, but be sure the pine used is dry, or things woeful to
; :
Cut
all this
and quite straight. How to do this has been treated upon .so constantly that it does not seem necessary here to repeat such instrucfully, square,
The pine will foot 1 and prepared, thus need to be cut 9|- inches long and 1 foot 3f inches wide.
pine on three edges with walnut.
therefore,
commending
tions.
we
When
264
A WASH-HAND STAND.
an ovolo moulding
(see section k,
fitted,
l) is
and two under edges of ends of lower Of course, the back edges are left
middle front rail (section A, b) this if for the purpose of the door shutting against. Being in the neighbourhood of the doors, we
;
may
square.
as well take the size, and proceed to make them, leaving to dry while cutting, and fixing
Scale. 7tn-1/i.
FRONT ELEVATION.
BACK ELEVATION.
frets.
shelves
of the
of the
in
These panels, it will be observed on reference to section k, l, are fixed in a simple manner by a small fillet on the inside, and a inch bead on the outer. The fillets and beads are secured to the rails and legs, the fillets being bradded on at the proper distance from the face, and the beads, in the case of hard wood, needlepointed on after insertion of panel, which is 1 foot 2^ inches long by
1 1 inches wide, J inch thick. The beads are mitred round, the shortest being cut in first, the longer ones
from the opening. Half the width of opening will give us to the centre line (section i, j), and to this width we must add inch for the extra width required for reThis will make the meeting bate.
stiles
outer
stiles
The
ob-
if
been
The
the
tenons next, then both rails and panels, stiles ploughed for the
SIDE ELEVATION.
the
cut
is
accurate,
is
and
afterwards
the
mouldings
fitting
a very desirable
struck, the final operation previous to being to cut the shoulders of rails.
No
at-
fillet,
-|
inch
by inch
thick, should
be
tempt will
be made
method
tacked
or,
better
still,
of mortising
fully, so
many
A WASH-HAND STAND.
able writers having exhaustively dealt with that
subject
265
many times
in this
magazine
so placing
When care-
the doors aside, as sufficiently discussed for the present, we will commence the frets.
taken
stuck,
off,
and after hanging, the doors may be and the bead on one meeting stile
(section
I
from \ or J inch stuff the upper ones are fixed by a fillet at back, and a bead in front, in precisely the same way as the panels were treated the lower ones are fixed by being bradded from the under edge, out of sight. The front lower fret differs somewhat from the others, the centre piece being made to project beyond the face of side pieces. If the
frets are cut
;
The
j)
taken
out
of
thus
giving a double
a good variety
quirked bead.
fitted
made by Kayes,
on the push principle the knob in this form of latch has a small pin in the centre, which upon being pressed in a similar manner to an electric
Sfctum,
CD
a separate piece
bell push,
centre
of
piece
is
cut
out of
releases the
stuff,
door to open.
are
catch, and allows the These catches are very neat, and
;
mainder of fret, the desired effect will be obtained, and it will be found the best and easiest way. The back is inch thick, and is fixed between the faces of the shelves (see section ms) on the inside should be fixed fillets to take the ends of back, the top and bottom edges being already provided for. This is taken as being sufficient explanation, without a section being given; screws should be used for fixing. The doors should now be rebated, fitted, and
;
self-shutting
is to
that
is
to say, all
that
is
necessary
and
The four brackets which appear to support the marble top may be got out, and fixed a couple of brads, driven in from the top and under edges skew- wise, will secure them ; they are \ inch thick, square on edge. "When ordering the marble top, instruct the merchant to bore three holes $ inch from the back edge, one in the centre and one on each
;
side of same, 10 inches from centre hole countersink on under-side to take screw heads.
266
These holes are necessary for the three screws with which to fix the wooden hack, which we
will
-
if
a third line
is
made on
now
inches, in
width 5i inches, and thickness f inch. The shelf on top is 10| inches long by 3 inches wide, moulded on front and two ends to section
(see elevation of top shelf).
width of each consecutive C, and draw a line to connect them similar to the width and depth lines, or the distance may be marked on the front with
a pair of proportionate compasses set to a third
this will
separate pipe.
Lincrusta
Walton
may
be
is
introduced
as
Wind some
Japanese leather
often admired
fix
the
wood
in the
bench-screw, and
make
when used
the cord.
quickly.
When
"ORGAN BUILDER."
IV. Wood Pipes (continued). |1TH pipes less than 4 feet in length, the mode of procedure is somewhat dif-
ferent to that
just described.
The
backs
operation
is
planed to a width.
In shorter
pipes, the
side,
The back edges will be glued first, and the back put on its place the pegs will hold it there. Turn the pipe over, and glue the front of the sides (taking care that no glue is left on the mahogany, and that the sides are dry) J inch below the top edge of the block knock the front on, pass the slip-knot round the block end, and turn the pipe round and round to use up some of the string do not pull too tight, or the string will snap, and you will find
;
;
and
fronts project
and are
the same length as the sides (3 inches longer than the dead-speaking length at C). After
ground.
Eemember
is
to
them
they are planed up, lay the back on the bench, and put the connected portion over it, with the
place with a
upwards fix the front on in its wooden peg 1 inch long (shoemakers' pegs answer the purpose admirably, and are very cheap) through the bottom end into the middle of the block, and another at the top end into the side turn the pipe over, and
front edges
; ;
formed in this way than any other way, except hand-screws or steel-clips, but no amateur is provided with sufficient of either.
a better joint
The
the tightening
of
the cord.
with a marking-point prick the top corners of the block on the inside of the front, and with a
pencil
and pour about two pints of it Part of the throat may be chopped out to admit this if necessary. Hold the pipe with the top end over the pot,
down the
pipe.
mark the
in sides
of
and
tilt
up slowly
it
same
a
for 4 inches
up
Let
fall to
the bottom,
;
mark
it
on
the pencil lines just drawn. One leg of the compasses should be put to the mark left by the point. Lay a square from one top dot to the
other,
and turn the pipe over on to its second side raise the block again, and so on, until all the four sides have been so treated, when the remainder of the size must be run out. Wet the outside well all round, and lean the pipe,
with the back up, against a wall or other convenient place, block upwards, and leave it to
dry. Putting the size in in this manner coats the whole of the inside more evenly, and forms
across between the black lines \ inch deep this forms a clean square edge for the lip. At J inch below the points representing the top of the block, cross-cut the front half-way through, and
the pipe
is
a small ridge in the angle of each corner, which adds considerably to the strength of the joint.
267
projecting pieces
down
and
is
roughly for 1^ inches wide in the middle of the pipe, until the chisel meets the knife cut from
the inside, and take out the piece over the top
of the block.
Be very
and the
process.
when they
CJ
FIG. 4-6.
FIG. 4-5
U-~l/
FIG. 4-9.
So3le.3in-IH.
r"!C47.
FIG.
4-1
F|C3e
Scale.Zin-/ft
FIC.37.
ScabSuutfi Scate3in*tft.
Sc3le2in-lft.
Scale.Zm-M.
Now
of the front
Start the
saw
so that
it
top end a semitone longer than the note on the scale, take off the splinters, and out of a piece
of 1 inch stuff
from the any marks being made on the face of the block. At 1\ inches from the end of the front thus formed, level the outside
this will prevent
make
Cut out
time
;
sufficient
pine to
plane the length -h inch narrower thaij the largest pipe is wide, and cut off one piece
268
iV inch shorter than the pipe is deep bore a hole in the centre, to admit a \ inch pin worked on the bottom of the handle (b, Fig. 37). This
Now plane the pipes to a thickness they should hold as thick as possible at C C,
freely.
note very
of
bought
articles,
piece of oak, \ inch thick and \\ inches wide, with the corners taken off, and a pin made on
the end, will answer the purpose just as well. A rip saw kerf is cut down the length of the pin to admit a hard wood wedge from the
J inch at C', and the top more than J inch thick. If the Smooth sides are too solid, they look clumsy. over the fronts, and with a sharp knife square the line a, Fig. 36, across. The proper place for this mark is the width of the block, and the two sides above the top edge of the block. With a cutting gauge cut down the front from a to
little
bottom side
stopper,
pine.
this
across the
split
the
not lengthways,
will
the
sides for
Bevel the piece a on the top and bottom \ inch all the way round, so as to leave a flat place in the middle \ inch wide glue and wedge the handle in, and when dry fit one side and end into the top of the pipe lay a piece of
;
bottom end, the thickness of the sides gauge lightly at the top, but at the bottom go right through the stuff chamfer down nice and smooth the outside of the front between these
;
If care-
unstrained leather, with the fleshy side over the top of the pipe, and plane the other edge and
end of the stopper until it will take the leather into the pipe, and be moderately tight. Particular care must be taken that the stoppers fit exactly all the way round more than half the bad notes produced by stopped pipes are the
;
come out readily, and leave a gap above the block, and a clean edge Leave the lip inch across the pipe for the lip. thick at C C, and thinner as the pipes diminish The top note will be almost sharp. in size. Mind the chisel does not slip, and gash the face
wood
will
of the block.
result
paid to
this detail.
glue
it
the piece will enter the pipe, on the bottom, lay it on the leather, and
When
and back, and make 37) of mahogany, shaped similarly to those of the open diapason. The caps should always project a trifle beyond
sides
(c,
Fig.
making them a
different thick-
knock
dry
it
the top
trim the
top, and leave it to the front of the pipe on the handle *vith a three-cornered file, so that it will be put in " same way again. Handles will be used for
mark
Caps over 2\ inches wide should be fixed with screws, and the rest will simply be glued. A foot will also be fixed in the centre of each pipe. In marking this point,
ness for each octave.
To continue them
38.
up
to
\e
is
p a
)
pi ece
js
do not forget to allow for the caps. The pins of the smaller feet may be fitted in by boring right through the lower portion of the block with a
centre-bit, if
it
This
he stopper for
glu-fl
B B
;
gedact.
Pieces
will
make a
hole convenient to
together to form the thickness of the large on* if necessary they are made in a similar way to the blocks; those less
1
may be
the foot.
and Fig. 37 a
section of the
than
This
inch wide will- of mahogany. They have to befitted in the jpes exactly the same as the larger ones already igntioned. I generally cut the stoppers the same
as
^ ng th as the blocks as C, and then I take tu m l inch shorter.
is
block,
etc.,
far
stopped diapason as well. I have now given the details of the principle of construction of all wood pipes the next thing
:
to consider is the
way
in
which the
scale,
varieties of
a^ draw
out
all
the
tone
are obtained.
The
shape of the
stoppers, and rub the leath r on a h oard tna t has some black-lead and g d lard mixed on it.^ Eub the preparation well- nt0 the leather;
this
t
block, height
and shape
of the
most important assistants to the difference of The following will make this question quality.
topper,
and allows
it
to
be
mo^d up
or
down
full
tone in
269
we
A small
this
same
as
D D
sharp on
The length, of course, will be the The wind that passes into the pipe becomes compressed by the bevel of the block,
smaller.
same.
manuals may be made by stopping pipes the sizes of Fig. 32, and cutting up the mouths one half. Fig. 45 is a diagram of C' of the Wald flute. This is a 4 feet open stop to tenor C, with the
Bourdon
for the
lowest octave
filled
in
with
stopped
pipes,
thrown with more force against the top lip, which is left thick, and is cut up half the width of the pipe internally. The notes from C C to tenor C will have ears and beard to
is
and
name
will
signifies,
wards.
The mouth
from the
accelerate the
speech.
The
ears will
not
be
width
inside,
shaped like c, Fig. 35, but simply pieces of wood Z\ inches wide are fastened to the front and top edge of the cap for the beard. The pipe will be made in precisely the same way as
already described, and the ears put on afterwards. The shaping of the block will be
carried
afterwards.
The
LENGTH WITHOUT
WIDTH.
Indies.
BLOCK.
Feet.
.
Inches.
Tenor C Middle C
,.
..
1
2
.
2f
..
3
1
10
9
..
If
1*
.
up
to
C\
may be
The
the
C3.
f by
h
1A
f by
10i
left plain,
*l
mouths
be cut up half the width, and the than those of the open diapason. The top end of the block will be \ inch thicker than at C and sunk down \ inch. Figs. 39 and 40 represent the side and front view the C C of this stop.
will all
lips left rather thicker
1
,
may be made
octave higher.
same
as the
gedact
an
:
C2
The
sizes are
round
0, to hole large
of wire
No. 3 gauge.
To tenor C, J inch enough to admit a piece Every six notes will have
5, 7,
and 42 represent the lowest note of a stopped bass to continue down the gamba,
Figs. 41
dulciana,
and so on.
or
salcional,
when
these stops
are
made
of metal to tenor C,
for our metal gemshorn will with pipes four scales smaller than
The tone
is
singularly
pure and quiet. The mouths are cut across square to start with the total width of the block, and arched with a sharp knife, and finished off with a file when the pipe is
finished.
The
internal
measurement
smaller
small,
being
eight
scales
C Bourdon
pipe
1^-inch stuff let into the sides of the pipe for f inch. All pipes below G G should have their
other pipes are done from the outside before the The mouth is cut front is fixed permanently.
blocks
ears,
made hollow
the lips,
manner
will be adjusted in the same as those for the lower notes of the open diapason. The top-piece, a, will be faced with
and beard
mahogany.
Fig.
Thin mahogany must be used for the face of the pipe, which will This remain the whole length of the sides. form of pipe is used for a 2-foot piccolo or an oboe flute (4 feet tone, at tenor 0). The top notes of the former will be made of metal pipes. The
44
is
following
is
270
110 II
WIDTH.
Inches.
DEPTH.
Inches.
...
Foot.
... ...
HOW
cc
...
...
...
A
J by 1
J,
if
1
Tenor C Middle
C
is
... ...
f by i
...
10 10* 5|
2
...
O O
...
byA... IbyrV...
ANY
Amateur Work
C3...
...
...
I
of wood.
made
being lawn tennis players, they have no doubt found that the catgut netting of their racket in time becomes slack.
To
it.
very
little
these I offer
my
experience of
how
to tighten
The pipe has, so to speak, two mouth is cut on each narrow side. The tone is particularly round and full. The mouth is cut up one-third with a thickish lip, slightly arched. The stop rarely extends
flute.
Doppel
;
and carefully mark on the frame the beginnings and endings of the
First, take the racket
fronts
that
lengths of catgut (as many bats are strung with two lengths), taking particular notice of the way in which the gut is changed from the vertical to
the horizontal strings, the
number
of strings
below tenor C with double mouths, the lowest octave being supplied by pipes the same as the
bass of the gedact.
of the several Cs are
WIDTH.
Inches.
:
which
to
begin threading.
The
internal
measurement
LENGTH WITHOUT
CAP. Feet. Inches.
top,
and take
it
it
DEPTH.
Inches.
and marking
Tenor C Middle
If
25 by If
C O &
A
A
...
2
1
...
...
..
I \
11-
by
I
6J
3
i.e., the end to be first threaded. with a dry cloth, to stretch and clean it, and the gut will then be ready for replacing. You must now make a lot of small wooden pegs,
Pub
of stops used in the majority of organs, with the exception of the claribella and the clarionet
I think I have
about lj inches long, and tapering from J inch diameter to the size of the holes in the frame
;
wood
you
one
will
are holes.
string
The former is an 8-foot open stop ranging from middle Cto the top note, four scales smaller than the open diapason. The latter is an 8-foot
flute.
threaded.
small hammer.
tone pipe, three scales less than the stopped diapason, with the mouth cut up one-third, the
ears bevelled, and holes bored down the stoppers two sizes larger than those of the stopped flute. In the next chapter I intend to describe the
Now
end of the gut through the marked hole from the inside of the frame, letting it come through far enough to reach round the edge nearly to the handle turn this end temporarily down through one of the last holes, and drive in a peg to hold
;
it
tight.
Papiee Mache.Paint it with about three coats of Japan black (not Brunswick black). If you want it very smooth, rub the two first coats down with a wet rubber of flannel charged with powdered pumice-stone, leaving the last one untouched, and you will have a bright and lasting result. Tou must, of course, allow ample time for each coat to thoroughly harden before rubbing down or
applying another coat
To Eenovate
Worn
The gut
first
is
now
there aro
my
racket) the
take two turns round the and using the handle as a lever, tighten the gut till it gives a rather high musical note when sprung pull very quietly and steadily, so as not to break it. Then drive another peg in the hole, to hold
;
HOW
the gut tight,
mallet, thread the gut
271
and taking the turns off the down through the next hole and out at the bottom through the next hole but one to the first string, and repeat the tightening with the mallet. Then up again, tighten peg, and so continue until you have got
the full
and so on, taking care that the horizontal above and below the
they are straightened before being
every hole.
When
all
number
last
being
last
careful that
and the
gut should be put on top and bottom, to keep the lines at right distances from each other,
twisting as in Fig. 2.
~W$>j
If the gut
is
in two
j?fiH
Pjj^f
n^J
lengths,
it
new
;
length, as in Fig.
3,
down
The
take
now
all
it
and
fixed,
all
only remains to
protect the
in playing.
head
This
to save the
is
usually done
is
FIG.
3.
much
is substi-
(if
same number of strings as mine, viz., eighteen vertical and nineteen horizontal) sticking through the tenth hole from the handle on the
opposite side to the
and protects the end better. Get a strip of guttapercha the width of the frame, and about 1 foot long; see that the frame is quite dry, and hold the strip over a candle till the under surface is melted, then put it round the end of racket, and rub it down and along the sides with a wet finger. Leave two days to dry, then trim off edges with a sharp
knife.
commencement; turn
it
down,
and thread through the second hole below, the same hole as the last but one vertical is in; then in and out through the vertical strings, and finally out on the other side by the
;
When
all is
finished,
and frame, except handle, a coat of thin spirit varnish, and you will find your racket as good
as new.
The discomfort
with
Then turn
was missed between Nos. 1 and 2 verticals, weave between the verticals and out of the
missed hole, between Nos. 17 and
18, as in Fig.
now
you
that
this inexpensive
Amateur Work has made known to way by which the evil may
be remedied.
272
AMATEUR CONJURING.
Haggard's interesting book, in which " She " rose out of a kind of soup tureen. Now, in these enlightened days, anything savouring of a mystery always draws crowds of people, so that, although we know that the professor's " magic" is " sleight of hand," we still go and see it at least, I know I do. Well, now " Lend
;
IT.
ARTHUR HARLEY.
Cabinet of Marvels.
|N
this
new "
cabinet of
marvels."
stood
The
illusion will
at Fig. 16,
by a glance
your ears, friends, Romans, conjurors," I mean "countrymen." [Misquotations, bad puns, &c, are not Amateuk Woek so get on with the paper. Ed.] From Fig. 16, as I mentioned
;
me
FiG.19.
FIG. l6.
G. 18.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FRONT
;
PANEL
B,
OF SAME. PILLAR SHOWING SPRING. FIG. 19. DITTO, SHOWING PERSON IN POSITION. FIG. 20. PATTERN FOR TURNED LEGS (SCALE 3 INS. TO I FOOT). FIG. 21. METHOD OF "HALVING." FIG. 22. SKETCH OF FRAMEWORK. A, B, E, F AND G ARE C AND D ARE THE FOUR PILLARS
VIEW OF ILLUSION, SHOWING SECRET SECRET PANEL. FIG. l6A. GROUND PLAN SECTION OF FIG. l8. FIG. 17. CORNICE.
CROSSBARS.
observed there
not a
practised
is
It is
|
before,
is
j
idea.
new thing
know, as
by the Egyptians, I believe, not exactly in the same way. But to proceed. The idea has already been worked out in several different ways for instance, I daresay many of you remember the "talking head," in which a box was brought on to the stage by the professor, and placed on a three-legged table, and on being opened (the box, not the table) a head was seen to be inside, which answered any question put to it by the audience. Then, later on, I saw what was called " She," after Eider
;
was though
it
for those
themselves.
who intend to make the cabinet I know some of you will say, " we
ourselves."
cannot do
it all
You do not know what you can do till you First we must have a lathe if you have
;
not
will
wood
;
turner's
it
(which I do not advise), or get a lathe not only come in useful for the work
hand, but a lathe
is
always useful,
if
how
to use
it
properly.
The wood may be either deal, pine, oak, or any other wood which takes your fancy. I
AMATEUR CONJURING.
273
hTOttilM
^
FIG. 16
FIC.20.
advise pitch-pine
easonei as
it
is
cheap,
and when
well
fast rules.
See that
making
the cabinet
but
it
it
ought to be well
well seasoned.
What
it is
we shall want will be so much half-inch, so much inch, and three-inch stuff. Of course you must make your own working drawings to the
which you prefer to work, as perhaps many of you do not care to go by any hard and
scale in
apparatus,
can
be used as
wardrobe.
want 3-inch stuff for the parts the frame where there is most strain, on the
will
You
274
bottom, for instance
lighter framing,
sides.
the
inch
wood
for the
FRETWORK OR INLAY
(For Illustrations
see
DESIGNS.
By ROBERT COXON.
Folding Sheet presented with this Fart.)
same width
the cabinet
|HESE
and
3 feet
deep, the mirrors must be 3 feet by 6 feet When you have got the framing together, an easy method of jointing is by "halving," as in Fig. The 21, or mortise and tenoning, as in Fig. 22. last method is the best, undoubtedly, as then you could have the four posts (a, b, g and d in Fig. 22) each in one piece. I think if you follow the drawing, Fig 22, in your work, you will not be
far out.
pecially for finger-plates, but as will be apparent, they might serve several purposes in fretwork, and would be found very effective if executed in a good hard wood with
clear flowing
characteristics
and neat
outlines.
The general
thoroughly original
readers will welcome
many
of
the
them
as a change from
J size. Do not put these on Now we want the doors, of which there yet. must be two for the front. You can either
The drawing
grasses,
These
to
designs,
more applicable
work which,
main
lines,
make
do
it
(if
you
very neatly), or
by mortising
And now
the
let
me
of
impress
upon the
workman
tell
necessity
doing
I do
work
in hand.
not want to
you how
to build
a kind of
across the
and conventional forms, with genu supports. The designs are mainly suited for fretwork, but I have reversed the order of shading in the drawing of them, to give a more delicate effect and for those who would use them for cut inlays
;
wood
another on the back, and propped up at the sides like an old pigsty if it is done with
;
cuts
;
of
the
(and I hope it will be), it is fit for any bedroom when not in use on the stage, and the owner need not fear that the secret will be
taste
more than
is
shown
be found
particular.
If
to
much enhance
found out, because, if neatly done, discovery will be almost impossible. And, by-the-bye, do not put the doors on yet. Have all planed up neatly and a true fit, and
then leave the frame
to.
kinds of wood, a dark and a light, be used, a pleasing effect will be produced, that will be
rather a relief
fretwork.
when we
are
satisfied
with
just
"shake
itself to-
gether " for twenty -four hours, and then look at it again and see if any of the joints have started.
Now
The top crossbar (e, Fig. 22) must have a J-ineh "rabbet" in the back, the bottom back crossbar (f) also, to allow the wood to be flush
with the bars.
(To be continued.)
If used for finger-plates, a good plan would be to mount the work, after completion, on a background of gold or bronze or a good coloured background might be used, at the worker's option, so long as the colour used does not contrast too glaringly with the paint work of
;
the door.
Paper or Leather may be waterproofed by compound White or yellow wax, 1,000 grammes Burgundy pitch, 60 grammes; oil of arachide, 80 grammes sulphate of iron, 50 grammes essence of thyme, 20 grammes.
the following
:
;
As a panel, about 1 5 inches by 1 inches, for piano front, or other purpose, design No. 2 would apply well as flanking end pieces, to
No.
1,
initials, date, or
spaces being
275
so that
Turn a
piece of
wood up,
when
;
it is
the
wood should be slightly conical, so as to make a firm fit. Put the tube in the lathe, centred on
the wood.
It may be that the tube does not seem quite true tap it gently until by the eye and trial it runs between the centres dead true.
;
the Polar Axis Mode of Constructing the Latter Marking thf. Declination Axis Testing for Accuracy Fixing in Position Clamping Circles.
for
Now
perfectly true
0=11111 A. YING
S lP 1
BwiSrSsI
facts,
be better
if
there
is
just the
capable of very efficient work. Procure a piece of hard well-seasoned wood, oak or mahogany,
21 inches long
by
12 inches wide,
and
2 inches
thick
true
mark
off
from one end this is for the base. Two tenons must be cut, as shown in dotted The other end must be cut off at lines, Fig. 7. the required angle. To do this, lay the template
2 inches
The under side must be cleaned up, but no more must be taken off than necessary, as it must be left as thick as possible after truth is This tube must now be secured to the secured. gnomon, as shown in Fig. 7, by two straps cut out of sheet brass they should be 14 by 2 by ^ inch. If the tube is of the same diameter as
;
the
gnomon
is
thick,
on the wood, being careful that the angle is let the edge be correct with tbe base line
;
perienced in fixing
it,
bent true.
diameter,
If,
less in
Out of similar wood cut a circle, find the centre, and draw a line through the diameter. On either side of this, and equidistant from it, draw another line the space between these two must be equal to the thickness of the gnomon to be mortised into it Fig. 8 On either side a strut must be (e), shows this. mortised into the base, dd. The utmost care must be taken that the long side is perfectly
; ;
coincident
The polar
axis
our attention.
into
one end screw an iron plug, allowing it to project 1 inch; centre it, and turn in a lathe perfectly true,
to pass easily,
but
carefully,
our
gnomon e
the base the
be absolutely perpendicular to and perfectly rigid. The line cutting across the diameter of c must be squared down
edges,
so that
without shake, into the brass sleeve (f, Fig. 7). The plug must be turned down to \ inch, the
shoulder being cut somewhat hollow, so as to
give good bearing.
we can
find
it
when
the
thread cut on
thick
this
it,
and be
with a nut.
Make
gnomon
is in its idace.
Procure 2 feet
fectly straight,
9 inches of stout
;
must be perit,
and
if
they
must be taken out with a burnisher used on the inside. Cut a circle of brass, say 5 inches in diameter, and at least J inch thick thicker than this rather than thinner one end of the tube must have a thread chased on it, and a central hole in the plate must have a thread cut to receive it screw the plate on as shown in Fig. 7, h. If solder be sweated into the joint, it will
;
; ;
must be screwed on to the plug, and its place by the nut the bearing surface of the nut must be turned true, so as to bear evenly on the plate. Perhaps it will be advisable to drill a small hole through the
;
secured in
this will
from the threads in the brass. This axis must now be put in the lathe on the centres on which it was first turned, and the disc must have each
side turned perfectly level.
276
FIC
II.
th Telescope
FIC 7
Telescope mounted.
FIC
Volar
14.
fj.r/^s
277
our work
its
is
properly done,
when
the axis
will bear
filed
away a
little,
so as to enable the
gland
put in
position the
it
two plates
to be screwed
down upon
the journal.
When
evenly,
and
will
move smoothly.
Although
We shall now
is
would answer quite as well, and I should say would be much cheaper. A fine line must be made across the diameter
zinc
by
its
a square
the axis
but
whether
right or
centre
If
be best to scribe this line is turned, taking care that the centre of the hole is on the line measure off from the centre 3 inches each side on the line, and bore a hole to receive the shank of the bearing (Fig. 10). Make a pattern in wood, base 3^, height 2, thickness \\, shank
of the disc.
It will
left.
we have taken
is
possible care,
necessary can be
hole of the disc on one and shifting the bearing. When the exact place is found, tighten up the nut, and mark position. In the second place, we must test it
side,
to see if
it
is
by \ long, and have them cast in brass let them be fitted perfectly square and true. The gland, b, must be fitted to the bearing, and secured with bolts and nuts. It will be understood that they will be cast solid, and not with the hole. The base and shank must be turned so as to Put them in position, as shown in set true.
;
any
file
slight cor-
or scraper
take off as
much
;
as
is
the bearing
much
is
not taken
Fig.
9,
other,
and perpendicular
if
on
Now
with a scribing
the same.
block see
have to be served in the same way. When proper adjustment is secured, with a touch of solder tack the bearing to the plate, and from the under side drill and tap two holes through the plate into the bearing, to take two steel screws with countersunk heads. The nut may
On
this
now be taken
off,
off level
the face of the bearing scribe a line square with the diameter line on the disc. the gland rests,
Where
;
with the under side of the plate. Solder may be run round the joint, and then cleaned off.
where
this is
the
centre
of
the
de-
clination
axis.
The
necessity
accurate
that
commenced
scription.
so
we must go back
in our de-
work
it
will
be seen when
we
consider
is
axis
should be
perpendicular
to
the
polar,
into
and that the centre of the polar axis must be the point around which the declination axis travels. If our work is true, then, in whatever position the instrument is placed, the one axis will be perpendicular to the other and if this be so, and the angle of polar axis points to the
;
Centre
it
in a
and turn
it
true
its
whole length.
instrument
if
turned
it,
plug must be turned down, and a thread cut in Our next business will as in the other case.
round will cut circles parallel with the equator, and a star will remain in the field of view during the whole time it is above the horizon. The holes for the journals must be turned out in a lathe, as that is more likely to produce accuracy than drilling. Either the top of the bearing or the under side of the gland must be
be to make a bracket (as Fig. 11) to attach the It may be telescope to the declination axis.
cast in brass, forged
in iron, or
made
in three
separate pieces, as
shown ; the
One
278
HOW
TO DRIVE A LATHE
;
be perfectly parallel with the polar axis if this is not so, no matter how accurately the polar
axis
is fixed,
HOW
TO DRIVE
parallel
fiie or scraper
must be used
Gear Conclusion.
our uprights,
or, in
AVING
we do
all-round
tie,
fixed
tie
we now
by an
take
must be coincident with the centre We have already levelled of the polar axis. the top of our pedestal, and have found the true north. We have also a mark on the base of the gnomon, indicating the centre. Place the gnomon on its pedestal, and bring the lines level, and clamp it in its position. Now with a plumbob try if the centre of the
sleeve
(f,
proceed to
them
in a twofold
way
first
and then by
is
cross-pieces.
1).
The
all-round tie
simple (Fig.
We
so that
when caught
together
stay
in position.
them The
bed
end,
is
n and
is
on the pedestal
if
the
affords a
not, adjust
until this
the case.
Whilst the
gnomon is thus firmly clamped, place the instrument on the stand, and direct it to any star, and clamp it there, and try whether, by turning the
instrument slowly round, the star can be kept
in the field of view.
The second
worked
in the
These also are halved, and form when mitred are placed between the uprights,
of a, Fig. 2.
as in Fig.
2.
Having bolted
all
we
tie
The polar axis can be altered a little, if necessary, by unscrewing one of the straps, and inserting a thin wedge of brass if placed under
;
go up 6
feet,
the head round with a similar all-round tie to and still higher again, at an that used below
;
interval of 2 feet,
we
We
or
if at
As
shown
in Fig. 7
a thread
is
cut on the
extreme end of
and a
and two chambers in our mill the upper one for the sail beam, and the lower one for the strap wheel and gear. In order
floors
run up, so
to ensure
taken
off.
circular
saw
our being able to drive our lathe or in any wind, we will make use of
the
this
screws
passing
10 (a)
through
;
the
flat series of sails described in our last paper. Being of considerable size, doubtless it will present a somewhat unusual appearance, but if our
shown
in Fig.
the
screws
purpose
is
It
should be at least diameter, so as to have a good bearing on the journal the end should
;
does not seem necessary to enter again into the description of these sails, and therefore reference
be
flat,
so
as
to
have
the
largest bearing
should be
made
saw
to the
surface.
might be added, but the dividing of circles is altogether beyond the means of the amateur. Whilst the stand is clamped to the pedestal, four holes must be drilled through the
Circles
and
circular
it
will not
be safe
to
arrange
base for bolts to fasten it to the pedestal, when the clamp may be removed. Now, with a coat
or two of white lead paint to the woodwork,
our task
is
completed.
form and head to cover the sails will, of course, be in all respects like the one originally described, and all must be hung as there directed. The platform, upon which the sail-head revolves, must be supported from below by struts.
BOW TO DRUE
A LATHE
279
We now come to parts of our machine which must be purchased that is, the axles, bandwheels, crown-toothed wheels, and straps. Let us see what we require. First, there will be the vertical axle upon which the sails are fastened. For stability sake, this must drop into a socket in a crosspiece fixed between the lowest all-round tie. Upon this axle, and below the sails, is keyed a
large erown-toothed wheel, locking into a similar
finally, if we carry the strap to yet a smaller wheel on the axle in the workshop, our speed will be increased in the same ratio as the diameter of the lowest wheel compared with the centre one is reduced. By a little calculation of respective sizes on the principle thus described, we may arrange for any fixed number of revolu-
wheel which
we think
to
fit.
required for a
to
but much smaller one on a horizontal axle, in the head of the mill. Upon this axle a broad wheel is also attached, for carrying the driving
strap. The extremities of the axle are supported by uprights fastened to the framework. Going down a little further in our mill that is, into the division below, we find a similar axle fitted with
circular saw,
forget to
match.
The overhead axle in the workshop must be hung on two strong iron brackets or arms, fastened upon the wall or upon breasts of wood
placed for the purpose.
two plain strap wheels, one larger than the other. The smaller one carries the 6trap from the wheel above, and the larger one takes another strap into the workshop below. Now, going down into the shop, we have an axle overhead, and on the same side of the shop as that on which our lathe and saw-bench stand this axle must run the same distance overhead as the length of floor occupied by the machine to be driven. Upon this are four strap wheels, one carrying the strap from the mill, and the
;
There are now before us two further one of which is imperative, and the
optional.
steps,
other
to
at a
moment's
notice,
and
usual
unusual
but beiDg
specially asked for by our correspondent, will be described, although it requires some complicated arrangements, and will be rather
costly.
In order to provide for a considerable speed, our wheels are arranged on a definite system.
On looking
at Fig. 3,
we
must be arranged that the crown-toothed wheel on the sail axle is a large one, while the
First
it
perhaps,
is
the smaller wheel will revolve, say, five times for every single revolution of the sails. The
horizontal axle, which revolves five times also,
carries a strap wheel,
which
in its turn
must be
an equal wheel is
much
axle
;
but
it
will, of
course, revolve
if
number
of times.
Now,
this strap
and width, to carry the strap between the axle and the machines, d is the driving-wheel s is the stopping, or out of gear wheel; r is the reversing wheel, b is a solid axle, which runs from end to end between our machines, and upon it are fastened d, the driving wheel, and o, a large cog-wheel, e is an axle fitting into the frame spoken of, carrying two cog-wheels, the outer one of which interlocks with c. p, the second and inner of these two cogs, interlocks
;
with
f,
the
third,
or intermediate series of
increase
of
revolutions.
For
instance, if the
is five times smaller than the upper one, tne lower one will revolve five times faster, or twenty-five times faster than the sails.
cogged wheels, which in its turn locks into l, which is fastened upon the solid boss of the baud wheel, b. It will be noticed that the axle a, upon which the cog-wheel l, and r, the band-
280
HOW
TO DRIVE A LATHE
is
considerably
;
is
is fixed,
the
and passes
extremities,
o,
o.
sequently,
but upon the same axle as band wheel, e, is fastened, r, conwill travel in the same direction as l
;
;
through
it.
but
is
l,
we
said, is travelling
c,
round in a different
is
c.
The axle b
while a runs
suspended at
its
direction to
therefore
revolving in the
Directly, there-
separately in
the arms
opposite direction to d, or
fore,
Now
let
us consider
how
we
slip
our band
off
d,
and notice what they do. The driving is moving round towards us as we stand facing it the cog-wheel, c, being on the same axle, B, it also is moving round toward us. But c locks into n n travelling, however, in the opposite direction to c. p, on the same axle as n, travels also in the same direction, p locks into p, and causes f to rotate in the opposite direction that is, in the same direction as c. f locks into l. and l, in its turn, revolves in the
act,
upon
r,
wheel, d,
Coming
and
if
left,
we
see
s.
s,
as
we look
it is
at
hangs
in situ,
we
notice that
quite stationary.
We have already said that these three band wheels are of equal diameter. If we look again at the diagram, we shall see that s upon a hollow axle is hung loose, as also is R, and l upon a,
through which B passes.
opposite direction to f
l then
is
travelling in a
HOW TO
The hollow
281
however, upon which s and fact, only long enough to carry s and k and l. One end (the outer in each case) of the axles is fastened upon arms (m, m) projecting from the wall, while the other is
axles,
in
by means of a sliding rod, like Fig. 2. The band passes through a hollow portion or slot
at a, while the ends of the rod pass
through
arms.
At the end
furnished with a screw head large enough to keep the wheels in their place on the axles. It
By
these
p,
When
is
the
right-
Now
band
plain
hand cord
slot
pulled, the
we
in
the
rod
above
it
carries the
band with
to
will stop
passed
upon
is
wheel
and when the opposite cord is pulled, the band is either brought back to
its
which
stationary.
original position, d, or
We
powers
have
at
we may go
backwards,
gear.
or
we
may
This may be
Both lathe and circular saw will require a similar arrangement to that already
described.
and promptly done by hanging a weighted catch upon a wooden arm, below the top floor in the head of the mill one ex;
tremity
other
is flat,
while the
the
flat
is like
one end of a
;
these three
is effected
clock escapement
powers.
This
part
is
FIG. 4.
282
than the crooked portion. Through a hole in the flat end we pass a cord, which being carried by a pulley and a second arm, is brought within reach of the operator below. Immediately over
this latch, a slot
mill,
is
The
the crook passes, catches the sails, and stops them. Another hole, however, in the flat part
of the catch, carries a second cord,
and hence the greater the power exerted upon But as we also increase the size of our sails, so must we also increase the strength Also, the revolving head of of our building. the mill or cowl which covers the sails must be provided with hinged shutters, which can be
the centre. pulled
is
which
in
its
mill
turn
again.
original position,
to revolve
time, or wet
do
much harm.
For
little
so
large
Very
more remains
be done.
We
in the roof as
our purpose, a different construction is advisable to that spoken of in the small water
far as possible, and over the portion through which the bands pass it will be necessary to erect a small roof of planking. We must also cover in the framing of the mill, one side, however, being in the form of a series of doors,
to
machine.
square
in
Let this one be circular instead of For this we fact, an actual cowl.
enable
us to
get
easily
at
the
internal
arrangements when requisite. The directions, it must be understood, are in a certain degree general in their character an alteration in the
:
shall require an iron cage (see Fig. 4), upon which we must stretch oiled canvas. This will be far lighter than a square wooden construction the tail iron must be forged on to the uprights of the cowl. It only remains to be said that all the fittings must be good and true
; ;
side
by
side,
may
necessitate a
and that the internal arrangements of the mill must be kept oiled and in good running order.
re-arrangement of
details.
now
most cases
and
with such before him, any person who has the ability to use such an apparatus, would also
possess, one
to adapt
MAYNARD WALKER.
and
may make
IN preparing the above, first with a view to my own use, and secondly as a suitable subject for the readers of Amateur
needful.
In case
it
is
In
band will have to be longer, and since also it will be exposed to weather, a light covering or shed must be arranged for its
was naturally much influenced by the varied desiderata which presented themselves, not the least of which was that the design should be easily made up by an average amateur
Work,
in
woodwork;
also, that
it
should be of con-
protection.
venient dimensions suited to an ordinary sitting or "bedroom not too clumsy, on the one hand,
some
It
nor too small to be of real service, on the other further, that it should be sufficently ornamental,
so as not to
if
we
decide to
or any place
power will be required, the friction of the machine being much increased by the numerous
wheels.
not be
difficult,
In this
amateur to daub
BOX.
283
Thus the
when
finished a square
worker
and if the stuff he prepared with anything like ordinary care, an upright and true
character
piece of
effort.
is
work should
result with a
minimum
of
3J inches wide, scrolled somewhat, as shown in Fig. 1, at bottom, and 4 pieces of the same width, but long enough to overlap the two uprights, and to allow of cutting a mitre for making a square
joint for the top fronts.
Of
its
usefulness not
is
much need he
coals
in
said, for
everyone
kind of
receptacle
a room, the
more out of sight the hotter, which shall he handy and convenient, and also be adapted to receive the various inevitable Utter and waste which accrues in a room at all times, such as paper, ash, used matches, and other debris
offensive to the eye of the tidy housewife, to
work
and the and bottom scrolls proceeded with care should be taken that the work stands upon a flat and true surface, and frequent use made of the square, so as to ensure theuprights being perpendicular; and that the panels are flush with the uprights at back,
of glueing
may be put
;
up the top
fronts
say nothing of
partner.
her
sometimes
completed
less
sensitive
will
be necessary to
fit
four lengths of
1
Fig.
illustrates the
article,
which
inch
this
inches square
by about 2
up the
work
amount of alteration.
much
stronger appearance.
left free for
Of course, one
but
it is
panel must be
hung by
cut,
can
The
now be
by
wood
of
side,
and then
more grain and beauty when finished this is a matter of taste entirely) and some f inch deal for the coal box the pine should be obtained in boards not less than 1 1 inches wide if 1 2 inches can be obtained, so much the better. Cut up four 2 feet 6 inch lengths of the inch stuff, and plane them up straight and true for the uprights, and having decided upon the exact width of the panels, cut up and plane four 2 feet lengths of the pine. Take particular care that these are cut true and square with each other, as upon this part of the work will depend the
;
by the same
process.
The
Whether it is made with three or four sides, will be determined by the manner of fitting the tableif hinged, the shelf will be accessible from top the top if fixed rigid, it can only be got at from the door, and must then have only three sides.
:
;
be required a
square of % inch pine, 17 inches each way, being sufficient to overlap each corner by | inch. The
joint is easily
Lay
these
aside,
made by planing the edges true and bringing them together upon a flat surface with scalding-hot glue, gently moving the surface either way, so as to ensure contact with the
least
top of panel;
mark
off
accu-
rately
upon the uprights 3J inches at both ends, and proceed to glue two of the panels into
position
;
quantity of glue.
joint
this should
be done upon a
flat surface,
up
back of
284
>-'
Coal Box (open)
c
i
Swing
\stopresi
FIG.
planed pine
This
is
method
ornamentation
use a
round
about inch thick, and at equal distances make a clean cut hollow the same finish may, if preferred, be given to the edges of the table top.
;
Now
This
is
a simple
its
affair,
description in
PERSPECTIVE
worker must remember to fasten the sides on to the bottom not the bottom on to the sides, or the rough usage of filling coals will soon loosen it also, it should be fitted on its front base with a round iron rod, which in its turn fits into a slotted wooden bar on each side, loose enough to be easily dropped into position or removed. The front of the box must also be fitted with a hinged stop piece, b, about 6 inches wide (Fig. 2), so that when in use, as the coal box works on the bar, it falls and forms a rest at a convenient
; ;
possible.
and renders the upsetting of the box imBy these two arrangements no jar or strain is thrown upon the table, the motion being at the same time very convenient. The work should now be well sandpapered to a thoroughly smooth surface, as it is intended to be varnished. The overlaying patterns, a, b, and
angle,
285
in the
way
of varnishing
and
effect
to
obtain
the
best
from this, the work should be given a coat of size, and allowed to thoroughly dry, when a coat of copal or oak varnish
will complete what, I trust,
wood empty
;
The
centre
produced by fastening at each of the These can be had at any ironmonger's shop, and are known as " roses " such as are used in gas-fittings.
stems a brass rosette.
The four scrolls (Fig. 4) for the corners should be cut out of the pine, and glued diagonally, necessitating, of course, planing down the
corner of the upright.
The reader
will
have noticed that thus far we have used neither screws nor nails, and yet the work is remarkably strong and rigid this is explained by the fact that in proportion to the width of the work there is a very large surface of glued jointing with very little leverage, so that the structure, although made of such light materials, is a really substantial and service;
able job.
FIG.
286
HOW
TO
IT.
say
HOW
IT.
TO
purifier, and, to
you
will
turn
OUTFIT FOE
5.
all
tubes,
ALLEN,
VI. Making the Gases Ether Saturator Using the Light for Stage Purposes A Word about
Limes.
fire, unscrew the cock, and wash out the inside under the water tap use plenty of water then put it on the fire todry, and it is ready for the next time. If this
;
;
cleaning process
still
is
.0
make
the gases
for oxygen,
of black oxide
of
mix manganese
;
lb.
with.
put about
a quarter of
it
in the retort,
rr\
F1C.37.
FIC. 40.
FIG.4I.
FIC. 38.
half
fill
to the
or gas
minute or two, and will when passing through the water. If allowed to go too fast, it will drive the water into the bag, and give some trouble it is, therefore, better to go slowly, taking the retort off the fire when getting too hot. But care must be taken not to allow the retort to get in any way cold, or it will
mence
come over
in a
make a bubbling
noise
easily.
Make a
or round, about
12 inches diameter and 12 inches high; fix a lead or copper tube in the top, also a large
half
fill
with a solu-
composed
;
of
common
287
will immediately
run
off,
little
or no smell,
beautiful,
and
it is
very cheap
sheet 24
by
12,
much
blue light.
light as glass.
of light is
produced with the ether saturator, which consists of two tubes of brass, about 12 ins. long and 2 ins. in diameter, connected at the bottoms, and fitted with screwed ends, and again with small screwed caps. They are filled inside with a roll of flannel or coarse cloth, having a spiral wire in the centre to keep
Another kind
The means
very simple.
or
We
showing opaque objects is is worth making, and is shall want a kind of lantern
them open. (See Fig. 39.) To prepare it for use, unscrew the cap of one of the cylinders, and pour in sufficient methylated ether to
fill
both cylinders
it
box with a front or focussing lens fixed into it, and the burner to run in from the side, so that when we hold an article in the light it will be reflected against the lens and on the sheet. Of course it will be very small, but some very amusing pictures can be produced by a little ingenuity with such things as a rubber doll's head, sold in most toy-shops, and which may be pulled into different shapes a lemon, if cut and
;
remove the
once
and pour back into the from both cylinders at drain a few seconds, and screw caps on
little
caps,
most amusing. A word about the limes. Most exhibitors prefer the round turned ones, sold in boxes at but why, I could never 2s. to 4s. per dozen
squeezed,
is
;
tightly.
understand, as the
far better,
common white
stone lime
is
and screw the single end on the tube from the oxygen bag connect one of the top ends to the lantern, and the other to the ether saturator the oxygen will then pass through the apparatus, which must be connected at the other end to the lantern at the hydrous tube. A mixed jet is required for this light, which will be found to give a very good light, and be perfectly safe. For theatrical purposes, such as throwing coloured lights on the stage, we shall want a different but very simple lantern. Make a box about a foot square cut a hole in the bottom to take your condensor (we shall not want the front lenses) knock off one of the sides, which will be the top fix the burner on a piece of wood the old side will do if you cut a piece off, so as to allow it to go inside the box, and be drawn from the lens, or pushed up to it. A strip of wood must be nailed to the sides to keep it at the right height; strips of wood, with grooves in them, must also be nailed to the outside, to allow the coloured glasses to be slid in and out (see Figs. 40 and 41). Or, better still,
connect, get a brass T,
;
To
and can be got almost everywhere, except in London. The limes sold at 2s. to 4s. per dozen have to be imported from somewhere else, and perhaps that has something to do with the custom of putting them in small boxes or
bottles at so exorbitant a price.
there
now only to wish you success and if any part in which I have not been sufficiently clear, I shall be glad to answer in the " Amateurs in Council " column.
I have
is
;
^^raHE
"p
;J|
is
frame, and capable of being revolved by means To of a belt and pulley, or by bevel wheels.
the top of the axle are fixed two rods, which have metal balls on the lower ends two short rods
;
gelatine slides,
made thus
cardboard to
little
size,
and cut in
;
a round hole a
are jointed to these at the top end, and to a collar at the lower end, which is free to slide on
the shaft.
groove
is
made
which some
the centre of the which a lever or end a rod is opposite the and at fixed, is beam
beam
is fitted
288
connected from the
As
end being forked, and having two short pins fixed inside, which are fitted to the groove in the
collar.
outwards, raising the collar, which in its turn raises the lever, and causes it to partially close
the throttle valve, thus reducing the speed of the engine.
The beam
is
hung
in the centre
;
by a
pin in a support screwed to the frame at the other end it is connected by a rod to the throttle
valve.
of
any length,
to suit
is
Governors are made in various forms. ITig. 1 a side elevation of a simple form of governor.
of the of
is
;
the rod
may
pass upwards
if
The section
frame shape
is
it
T
the
ves are
made
;
in
bedplate
tion.
any
posiis
convenient
bottom,
the
and an
A
the
to
;
boss
The
cylinder is bored,
axle
pass
rod passes
the bottom
end.
The
fitted
piston
steam
the
so
is
being
the the
pulley
lifted out of
and
adjusted
bearing.
is
A
end,
keyed on
similar
lower a
is
and
pulley
keyed on
when
is
the
at
governor
rest.
The
f"
I
joints
of
C.I. jElevujtwn.
of Governor
the axle a bearing for the two rods is fixed, the rods being secured by pins or screws in slots at
made
is
packed, to pre-
When the
and the balls are fixed by through the centre of The short rods have double ends at the each. top, and are connected by pins or screws to the rods carrying the balls. At the lower end they are fixed to a bearing with slotted ends, formed on the top side of the grooved collar. The beam is made as shown in Pig. 2, the
nuts, a hole being drilled
fugal force, lifting the sliding collar by means of the beam, depresses the
opposite end attached to the piston, and causes
it
the
supply of steam to the engine. When the speed of the engine and governor decreases, the balls fall inwards, raising the piston, and admitting
more steam.
AMATEURS PHOTOGRAPHIC
STUDIO.
289
AN AMATEUR'S PHOTOGRAPHIC
STUDIO.
PRIZE PAPER IN COMPETITION NO. By G. PIRIE.
VI.
The
studio, of
which
the
is
the
is
end
of
building
height at eaves 6
ANY of
who
the readers of
Amateur Work,
other,
The materials
further on.
of
;
and at the ridge 15 feet. which it is made are wood, but more particulars of this
about
etc.,
doubtless, at
some time or
been
put to considerable inconvenience for want of a studio. I will therefore endeavour in this
Foundations.
A trench,
inches deep
and
to
paper
to
how
to construct a studio
which
may be
built
by
placed gravel,
1
till
inch
A wooden
the frame
frame,
by 12
feet 3 inches,
made from
is
Form.
7-inch
:
by 3-inch
battens, is
now
placed on the
prepared foundation.
When
made
The
lean-to
struct,
and also the cheapest, as one side is supposed to be already built but the low roof is an objection, and one cannot always get a
;
and perfectly square, it must have a good coat of coal-tar, which may be obtained from the gasworks for nothing. After this is dry, the frame is mortised for the uprights (Fig. 2), and
put in
its
place.
The
full-span is a very
if
the
amateur does not mind a little extra expense, I would advise him to build one of this form. But most amateurs will not care to lay out much money on a studio, since they may not require
one often.
The half-span might be called the " happy medium" more material is required than for the lean-to, but not so much as for the full-span. The accommodation is good, owing to the ridge
;
Framework. The uprights are now put in and the rest of the framework fixed. The exact positions of the uprights and of the horizontal rails are shown in Figs. 4, 5, and 6. The four corner posts are 4 inches square, and the rest of the framework is made from 3^-inch by 2J-inch quartering. When the framework
position,
is
inch from the rest on every side, and the joints must all be flush in the inside.
on the
roof, and,
is
what
is
most important of
all,
Eoof.
this,
7,
b)
is
now
For
the light
Size.
good.
studio ought to be as large
as
The
A
possible.
30 feet
we
and 15
feet
high; but as
care to build,
than
many would
each end, one on each side of the space to be the roof sashes, and one to be placed
of these pairs.
For the
are
smaller
the
roof thirteen
rafters
many
to
required
build one.
Position.
Covering Feamewoek.
The
;
framing being
northern exposure
affords a
on
more steady
which tends
to uniformity of results.
put together, we with J-inch matchboarding, except the roof and and l, k, e, l, the openings (g, g, Fig. 5 Fig, 6). The first of the openings being for the
all
290
door,
leave
is
and the other for the front sashes, we will When the matchboarding put on, it will be found that it is just flush
ridge,
them at present.
The roof
but also for turning under the eaves board (see Fig. 8). To render the roofing more pliable,
is to
be made
is
required,
of
as
at
the
for
This material might well be called "the amateur's friend," for it is not only much more durable than wood, but
it is
the
sheet
up
may
be
say
In
be placed
in water
and clean
to
work
the
entire
sheet
plunged in water.
case
of accidental
and
other
materials,
which
ture
paired by simply
sticking
of
a waterproof solution
and wide
the
19
;
inches
is
the latter
white
width we re-
D
FIG.
I.
o o
is
r. T h
VIEW
door
OF STUDIO COMPLETE.
made by
16J
so
inches
to cen..
from centre
tre,
5;'-^?jw-_-57'-
that
the
~r~
o
u
"rS*
f-
-~J7jh---27J-
-Mjij.
sr
by | -inch material,
6
feet
9^-
inches
[>
n
[>
<
0.
long,
and
two
3
-i_
2V
piece of the
same
every
-'5?
way
side
up,
and
by
and there be
on
every
bat-i_.
with
t
^-ineh
battens
rafter.
ma
\i
'CM
h b oarding,
The
by
b,
inch (except
o
SIZES OF MORTISES.
:
of
the
and
FIG.
studio.
should
sashes
the roof
with
the
roof,
b,
to
Fig.
are fixed
by 3-inch
nails nailed
The
coats of
oil-paint
open to the inside. Sashes Front. The sashes come next; two are required for the roof, and two for the front. Those for the front are each 5 feet wide and about 4 feet high. The stiles and lintels are of
2-^-inch
of
from sap or large knots. Each sheet roofing should be cut long enough to extend
free
by
by 2-inch scantling the soles 3 inches and the sash-bare, of which there are three, are 1 inch by 2 inches. They are
;
2 inches
291
FIG.
ELEVATION OF END FRAMEWORK. FIG. 5. ELEVATION OF FIG. 4. 3. PLAN OP TRENCH FOR FOUNDATION. BACK FRAMEWORK. FIG. 6. ELEVATION OF FRONT FRAMEWORK. FIG. 7. SECTION OF RIDGE. A, RUNNER FOR screen; b, ridgeboard c, ridge, fig. 8. section at eaves, a, runner for screen, fig. 9. section of RIDGE AND ROOF SASHES. PART OF ROOF FRAMEWORK. A, PIECE OF WOOD ON WHICH SASHES REST. PIG. IO. FIG. 12. SECTION OF RUNNER FIG. II. VIEW OF PART OF ROOF, SHOWING ROOFING AND SASHES IN POSITION.
FOR SCREEN.
292
fixed in their places
either side,
by a 1-inch moulding on and the place where the two sashes meet should be covered by a 2-inch moulding.
Roof.
most perfect
the public.
They should be
The
stiles
and
lintels of
by 2 inches, the soles 6 inches by and the sash-bars 1 inch by 2 inches. The lintels must be bevelled so that they can be brought close up to the ridge-board (c, Fig. 9). The top horizontal rail at the front of the
are 4 inches
2 inches,
Shading Screens
the windows,
Runners.
We must now
effect.
when
necessary for
The
runners for these screens are made from 2-inch by 1^-inch scantling; they are grooved as
building should also be bevelled to allow the sashes to lie flat on it, and to be level with the
roofing.
shown
in Fig. 12,
They are
7),
nailed to the
The method
10,
shown in Fig.
inch
to reach from the ridge-board bend in the roofing exactly. After they have been firmly fixed in their places, and the pieces (b and c, Fig. 11) fixed over the junctions, the ridge (c, Fig. 7) should be put on.
one close to the top horizontal rail (as at a, These runners are for the screens for Fig. 8). the roof-sashes. If the lower runner for the
roof screens be shaped as at a, Fig.
8,
it
may
also be used for the top runner of the front screens the other runner for these screens must
;
Glazing.
All
the
sashes
should
now be
be fixed
6 inches
to the uprights
down.
and those at the front with 15-oz. glass. Where any overlaps are necessary, they ought not to be more than
glass,
The frames of the screens are made wood \\ inches broad, firmly joined at the corners. Four frames are required for the roof, each 30 inches wide and about 11 feet
Frames.
of J-inch
Painting.
long.
(The exact length may be easily determined by measuring from the inside of a groove
in one runner to the inside of the corresponding
and front
colour,
the roofing
Another piece
of
Floor.
the
wood the same size might be fixed across the frame, midway between top and bottom, to add For the front, four frames are also strength.
required,
we go
inside,
is
thing that
each 30
inches
wide and
feet
demands
studio
at
;
attention
Four 6-ineh by
6 inches long.
When
they should be covered with Willesden canvas, and put in their places, one frame being put in each groove, so that they independently of each other.
each end
nailed.
may be moved
walls and roof must next be Matchboarding is not very satisfactory it has a cold look about it. Canvas and paper may be used, but is rather troublesome here again, however, the Willesden Company comes to our assistance with its two-ply paper. This paper is made in various colours, and is
considered.
;
;
Walls.
The
My task is now finished. I have described a comfortable and perfectly waterproof place in
which to work.
It is scarcely necessary to
mention that
in-
may modify
the plans
fitted to
also capable
of being
coloured.
Among
the
their requirements
colours
is
will suit
a very pleasing neutral green, which our purpose splendidly. The Willesden
water-proof, in-
293
WOOD REQUIRED.
FOR
.
SHOWN AT
PRICE.
in.
in.
in.
s.
d.
16 12
(>
2
2
2 2 3 4
o
1
10 10 15
3 3 3 6
6
7
7
3
3 4
4
6
16 12
4 4 34 3* 3J
H 3*
2
1
2 3
1
8 10 3 9 4 6 o
16
12
3| 3* 3*
6 10 3
4 4 3
3.
2J 2* 2i 24 2* 24 24 24 24 24
8 6 2
6 6
4
5
3
1
d D and N n, Fig. 5, and b b, Fig. 6 B and p p, Fi. 4 ... d f, Fig. 4 R K, Fig. 6 r s, Fig. 6 t t, Fig. 5
5
1
1
rails
8
11
rail
rail
u, Fig.
i s ^
24 24 24 4
1 1
1
Door Door
Figs. 7 and 9 Figs. 7 and 8... Figs. 7 and S ...
B,
...
5i 5 24
6 13
7 ^2
6 500 s q.ft. 6 12
12 "6 12
H 7
24 2* 6
3
7 8
2
roofing roofing roofing roofing
1
11
2
5
2
4 2
3 3 3 3
and 11
6
1
1
1
a, Figs. 9
aDd 10
Covering overlap of Covering overlap of Covering overlap of Covering overlap of Sash rests ...
10
8
3
7
1
4
6 o
5 5 12 12 5 5
4 6
4
1
2
2
1
4
6
1
%k 34 24
1
2
2
2
1
4
16 16
200 sq.ft.
8 20 8
64 12 2 4
4 6 5
2 14
4
1
c,
Fig. 7
Roof sashes... Roof sashes... Roof sashes... Roof sashes... Front sashes Front sashes Front sashes Front sashes Ridge
Floor Flooring Screen runners
Screens (roof) Screens Screens (front)
1
10
1
3
6 8 10 2 6
4
1
3
8
6 6
H
n_
14 i
A, Figs.
7 and
8,
and Fig. 12
2
1
6 4 8
6
7 17 11
N.B. The prices given here are the maximum; in some places the wood will only cost about 5. The sizes given are those which should be asked for when buying the wood. The exact sizes must be taken from the drawings.
LIST OF
NAME.
PLY.
WIDTH. LENGTH.
in.
FOR
PRICE.
vds.
Roof
Interior lining 3
1
s.
d.
4 2
B. 1.80
...
19
N.G. 2
D.D..X.
...
'J...
54 53
72 50
12
2 14
6
Screens
The above materials can be obtained from the Willeaden Paper and Canvas Works, Willesden
Junction, London,
72,
Watling
Street,
52,
South
N.W.
amateur objects
much
expense, he
vol. in.
(n.s.)
294
HOW
TO
CRANE.
e,
may
to the motor.
to rotate
The whole
its centre,
is
made
it
about
amount by 1
13s. 4d.
carrying with
arm
of the
This paper, although not quite so stout as the two-ply paper, may be used with advantage.
The
first
we
b.
will
Turn
Wood
Willesden Paper, etc About 104 square feet 21-ounce glass, 21a. 35 square feet 15-ounce glass, 5s Paint, not more than Nails and sundries
;
s.
d.
7
about
1
7 17 11 8
four flanged wheels two inches in diameter, \ inch thick, and fit them with axles, as described
in the
article
on the
electric tramcar,
making
6
10
...
16 17
If 1-pl.y
...15
....1.3
If no lining be used
at- all,
3 10
8
4
when the wheels are screwed on to them, the distance between them is equal to 4| inches. These wheels you can get ready turned at any
axles of such a length that,
shop where model engines are sold, or you can get the castings and turn them yourself. If you do not wish the toy to be very elaborately con-
HOW
have not the necessary tools, the may be made of boxwood Next, procure two or any other hard wood.
structed, or
ROBERT
W. COLE.
strips of
1
wood
foot long,
and two
I.
all
suitable
is,
them
make
most interesting. If the reader will carefully and patiently follow me through my description, he will obtain not only what may be called a toy, but a substantial working model. It will not be my idea to describe in this paper all the details of the machinery which causes the crane to turn round about its centre, and to run along rails, but I shall merely describe the truck which carries the crane, and
perhaps,
the
the apparatus for lifting the load
time, however,
of at the same making suggestions by the aid
;
the two
shorter ones.
together,
Before
wood
drill holes inch in diameter 1 lower edge of each of the two longer
over them exactly as previously described in the case of the electric tramcar. Fit the two pairs
of flanged wheels into these
bearings, taking
Then
which the reader can, if he wishes, supply the mechanism which causes the crane to turn round and, also, to run upon rails. A side view of the crane in its finished conadditional
dition is represented in Fig.
1
.
fasten a piece of wood, J inch thick, on to the top of the truck, and allow about J inch of it to
project over each side of the truck
off its edges,
;
neatly bevel
1
and
drill
a hole exactly
inch in
diameter in
its centre.
The base
is
of the
toy
is
supported on
two pairs of flanged wheels b b, c is the platform on which are placed the electro motor o, and the arm, f, of the crane, d is a socket into which the arm f fits, and h is a small weight, to the lower end of which is fixed a hook, and to the upper end of which is fixed a cord which passes over
Now turn a piece of boxwood 3 inches in diameter and \ inch thick, sandpaper both its sides, in order that they may be made as smooth as possible, and drill through its centre a hole
1
inch in diameter.
1
tube
one end of
it
into the
just turned,
and
BOW
secure
it
TO
295
of the crane
as firmly as possible.
The truck
now
finished,
details
which
will
be described presently.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
VIEW OF CRANE A, TRUCK OF CRANE B B, FLANGED WHEELS C, PLATFORM OF CRANE D, SOCKET INTO WHICH THE ARM OF THE CRANE FITS E, PULLEY WHEEL OVER WHICH THE CORD PASSES G, ELECTRO MOTOR H, HOOK AND BALL AT THE END OF THE CRANE K, CIRCULAR PIECE OF WOOD PLACED BETWEEN THE PLATFORM AND TOP OF THE TRUCK. FIG. 2. SHOWING TOP OF TRUCK AND BRASS TUBE FITTED
FIG.
I.
; ;
SIDE
I
FIC.6.
*
Then
o
and countersink four and screw it
tube
INTO
FIG.
3. SHOWING PLATFORM OF CRANE AND WOODEN CYLINDER PASSING THROUGH ITS CENTRE. FIG. 4. ARM OF THE CRANE. FIG. 5. SOCKET INTO WHICH THE ARM FITS. FIG. 6. SHOWING GROUND PLAN OF PLATFORM WITH MOTOR. AND SOCKET FITTED INTO IT.
IT.
brass tube.
drill
We
will
attention to
the
on to the top of
on to the top
the truck, and which carries the motor and the arm of the crane. This should be made of
material J inch thick, and must be 12 inches
296
long and
its centre,
HOW
7 inches wide.
TO
Drill
1
inch diameter.
Then and of
of
the
pulley wheel.
The
it
will
fit
it
will
Drill a small hole down the wooden cylinder, and glue it firmly into the hole which you have already made in the centre of the platform, and make
very
little friction.
centre of this
one of
its
platform.
The
platform
it
with
the
wooden
3,
is
represented by Fig.
is
where a a is a portion of the platform, and b b the wooden cylinder with a small hole running
down
it
its
centre.
When
you have completed the platform, place upon the top of the truck, and allow the
cylinder of
wood
(b b) Fig. 3, to
fit
the pulley wheel revolve freely and truly on its bearings, and to prevent its centre wearing away, as it would do if it were made of wood. The pulley wheel must now be fixed in its place at the end of the arm of the crane. Procure a brass or steel pin which will fit exactly inside the brass tube which you have fixed in the centre of the pulley wheel drill a hole right through the two slits which you have cut at one end of the arm of the crane place the pulley wheel in its position in the slit, and pass the pin right through the two ends of the slit and the pulley wheel, and then with a hammer slightly rivet the two ends of the pin, so that it will noj; be able to move from its place. We must now make the socket, into which one end of the arm of the crane is intended to fit.
;
make
tube which you have fixed on to the top of the truck of the crane, and you will find, if you
This
3
is
represented in Fig.
its
5,
and should be
inches in diameter at
and will hardly shake at all. Having satisfied yourself on this point, remove the platform from the top of the truck, and proceed to make the arm of the crane. This it is about 14 inches is represented by Fig. 4 long; and \\ inches in diameter at its widest point. It is wider in the middle, and tapers
;
would be best if made out boxwood, as that wood is less liable to split Sandpaper and polish, and than others are. remove from the lathe. Then drill and counter\\ inches thick, and
of
5, and your work bench by means of two screws passed through these holes. Then
screw
it
down
to
procure a centrebit
inch in diameter,
fit it
into
at the end, b,
it
tapers
down
your brace, and holding the brace at an angle of 45 to your work bench, drill a hole 1 inch
in diameter in the centre of the socket,
an inch in length from the end is turned \ inch diameter. At the end a it tapers down to inch in diameter, and has a slit cut in it 1 inch in length, and \ inch wide. A pulley wheel, over which the cord from the electro motor passes, is fitted into the slit at the end a, and the end b is fitted into a socket, which we will make presently, and which The is screwed on to the top of the platform. pulley wheel should be 1 inch in diameter, and slightly less than \ inch thick, and should have a hole \ inch in diameter drilled through its centre. Procure a piece of brass tube \ inch in diameter, and as long as the pulley wheel is thick, and hammer it into the hole which you have drilled through the centre of the pulley wheel. Chuck the pulley wheel on a lathe, and
for
and
and make
is
its
shallowest part
level
Now
take the
inch centre
diameter, and
the hole
inch in diameter.
When
you have
from
done
this,
place,
by a, and the socket by b. Before proceeding any further, see if the end of the arm of the crane fits H the end of the arm is too into the socket. large to fit in, it may easily be made smaller by
slightly filing
it
with a fine
file;
297
1st,
SOME CHAPTERS ON
SIMPLE ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
By
II. Eccentric
J.
the
L.
DWYER,
Disc.
B.A.
shank for holding in the slide rest, which also 2nd, acts as an axle for the body of the cutter gut for a grooves the revolving body, having V holder, tool having slide, the and 3rd, or band
;
;
HE first
tion,
thing which claims our attenand one of the most important implements in ornamental turning, is
which can be place either at the centre of the cutter, or any desired distance from it, within
the
limits
of the
tool.
It
should
it
fulfil
the
following requirements,
which
is
necessary
Casting
jtfolding
down
j>late
+_. 7\_
*
J
7"
.- f
~a
s-
'ptm
"r.'oo
Kj
*
--
t
i
IC8.
FIG.
IE
FIC.
10.
FIG.il.
view (Fig.
rest,
5) to
while
be held by a shank in the slide the face and cutter are turned
good machinery to do, viz., that it should run quite truly on its bearing easily, but without any shake, and that provision should be
for all
made
for taking
up wear.
398
METAL-TURNING.
The
thick,
My cutter is different from some others I have seen, but I do not think it inferior to any, and for simplicity and ease of manufacture I
consider
it
disc
may
superior.
of iron or steel of the
which
Fig. 8. It could be turned easily out of a bar of mild steel 1 inch in diameter and 6 inches long.
The square
rest,
part
is
then comes \ inch round for a disc, then comes a shoulder inch thick and 1 inch in
diameter, then a cone \\ inches long, and tapering from % inch to \ inch. Kg. 9 is a section of the relative positions
of shank, disc,
Three holes, \ inch in diameter, are bored through this disc, equidistant, and \ inch from the centre ; and, placing the axle and disc in position on the body, as Fig. 9, holes are bored in the body small enough to tap \ inch, and three cheese-headed screws are inserted, which
effectually
keep body,
axle,
and
disc together,
and body, without dimensions, or showing the slide and tool-holder. Now comes the body of the cutter, for which a pattern should be made and sent to the foundry. The pattern consists of two parts (Figs. 10 and 11), which fit into one another, as at Fig. 12, which shows also what the casting will be like when it comes home from the foundry. The pattern is made in two parts, to allow the moulder to withdraw it from the sand as, if it were solid, as Fig. 12, the shoulders would not come out. Having got the casting of cast iron or gun;
but would lock the axle, because disc is not flat against it. To prevent this, liners of paper, having holes 1 inch diameter punched in them,
are put between the body and disc
until the
axle runs freely, but yet without any shake. At any future time, if the axle should get loose,
all
that
is
necessary
is to
take
off disc,
remove
one or more liners, and, on replacing disc, the bearing will probably be tight enough, gfe inch of liners would wear, with constant use, for twenty years and, with the use most amateurs
;
would give it, I am sure it would last a century. Even if more were necessary, a little could easily be turned off the back face of body, which would increase its life for another century'
or so.
is to
turn
it.
I fastened
mine
body and disc are made of cast iron, which I recommend, it would be necessary to case-harden the bearing part of axle, which can
If the
and also the recess for the shoulder. The hole should, of course, be of the same taper as the axle already turned, and the
conical hole
recess
should be
&
inch deep
be done by heating to a bright red, inserting for some time in prussiate of potash, then heating again, and plunging into cold water. This finishes the spindle, disc, and body. We
will
now
slide, tool-
go in quite far enough to leave the shoulder flush with face. Fig. 9 shows what I mean. The shoulder of axle does not go quite to the bottom of the recess, and a disc placed against the front would stand -& inch from the face
of casting.
METAL-TURNING.
By A
When
the axle
fits
ing
may be
turned out,
It" should
and the recess in front and the entire casting roughed off.
reversed,
its
II. Texture of
own
file,
axle,
met by
from
and a
taken
of
off
the entire
casting.
The
application
a fine
and
which he attempts
those materials.
as bright as a mirror.
Much
METAL- TURNING.
therefore, consists in
299
in metal turning,
of use,
and
alloys
and
and the
shapes of
tools, their
presentation,
my
present remarks.
and cutting speeds. We will consider these primary matters in this chapter. The common metals and alloys, from the turner's point of view, are cast iron, wrought iron, steel (both east and forged), gun-metal, brass, and copper. The iron group, which includes steel, is that whose turning offers the greatest difficulty to amateurs. Brass is what amateurs delight to cut and shape it is so easy, so free to turn, and back gear is not required hence the large amount of model work done in brass. Yet, except that iron is worked less freely and rapidly, it need not be less easily cut than
;
Methods
of use differ
;
with slide-rest tools and difficulties arise from such causes as (3) malformation, (4) improper
presentation,
(5)
bad
metal,
(6)
improper
tempering.
Hand-tools depend for their efficiency more upon the manner in which they are held and presented, than on the way in which they are ground. In other words, the maintenance of
certain cutting angles is not so important in the
case of hand-tools as
the slide-rest.
of
The reason
of
that the
is
method
presentation
hand-tools
capable of
brass.
Metal
soft
;
is
but hardness
lute term.
From
most metal is soft only chilled and artificially hardened surfaces, scale, and some varieties of iron and steel being termed hard. All ordinary metals and alloys are considered soft, and are shaped with properly formed tools as readily though not as quickly, as wood but to badly formed tools, metal is mostly as impenetrable and
;
variation, which is not the case with tools clamped rigidly in the slide-rest. So much is this the case, that the graver and the filepoint may be employed to cut all metals and alloys, by simply changing the method of
much
presentation.
There
is less
tools held in
made
to cut in a series
sweeps or sections, instead of in a straight line, especially during the process of roughing out the work. A hand-tool is not held
short
horizontally, as in the slide-rest, but diagonally
unyielding as timber
there
is
is to
a blunt chisel.
Also,
nearly as great a difference between extreme qualities of the same kinds of metals
alloys,
stiffly
hand,
and
as there
is
may be
the crystalline and brittle, and the fibrous and tough. These distinctions will broadly corres-
pond
with
differences
mode
the formation and used in shaping them. case, the action of the tools
in
;
in the second
of
cutting.
At the extremes we
have the hardest cast brass on the one side, cut and the mildest wrought iron on the other, worked with true cutting
;
be clamped in a horizontal plane, with their cutting points as exactly level with the centre of the work as possible, and they must be made to travel in lines parallel with the axis of the work. For these, therefore, the maintenance of constant grinding angles is essential (a matter fully discussed in the articles on tools in
Vol. VII.).
But
it
be discovered that
it is
As I
in
Amatettr
VII.), I will
Wobk some years ago (see Vol. refer my readers to those papers
wrought
and
so
on
may be
50 per cent.
300
METAL-TURNING.
of
vital
harder than another, or 50 per cent, more brittle, or 50 per cent. Jess homogeneous and these differences make themselves felt very
;
importance
in
turning
the
harder
For
remove
is
is
having a gradation of cutting angles should be kept, and selected from when desirable. Especially does this
not
to
hold good in
enough
of
top rake,
cutting
tool,
by which
its
that
penetrative
harder at the surface than it is underneath; and for this reason the cutting
points of the roughing tools should
line of cut, in order to operate at the
be always
work, that
or slope. rected
rest,
is
is
too
much
top rake
by looking
the
hard outer skin. Bad metal is a source of trouble to the turnerAll metals, and nearly all alloys, are liable not only to be harsh in grain at times, but also to be not homogeneous. Cast iron
or to
the
cutting tool.
When
turning brass,
strise
may have cold shots, and wrought iron and brass be pinny and these try the points of the tools. When harsh and non-homogeneous metal is being turned, there;
a roughing
finishing tool.
fore,
it
is
tool to operate.
lighter cuts,
and using
is
tools of slightly
more
will
Tempering
no two
steels are
ment
is
required.
colour
is
quenched for
is
always a matter
the tool.
evil,
to
Overheating
a fruitful source of
Improper speeding, or want of lubrication, be followed by similar results to those caused by improper formation of tools. Running work at too high a speed saves no time, but abrades the tool, and energy goes off in waste heat. If work is ran rapidly, the lightest feed should be employed if ran slowly, deeper feeds can be taken. Eules for speeding are of little value, because speed is governed by quality of
;
away
at its work.
metal,
and amount
by abrasion,
approximation, to
improper temper, it is a proof that it has too much bottom rake, and the remedy lies in making the angle which the bottom face makes with the top more obtuse. A quite unnecessary amount of clearance angle is often given to the bottom faces of cutting tools. If the bottom face of a tool is backed off
to just that
12 to 18 feet per
for wrought iron, 20 to 22 feet per minute minute for gun-metal and brass, 25 to 50 feet per minute for copper, 120 feet per minute. On cast iron, east steel, gun-metal, and brass, no lubripation is necessary. On wrought iron
;
and forged
steel,
soapy water
is
used, and
is
amount that will prevent frictional it and the revolving work, no more clearance is really necessary. The more metal there is left on the bottom or front face, the stronger the tool will be, and the more permanent its cutting edge. This matter, which is
contact between
suffered to fall
may
be
made by
taking one part of bone-black, two parts of sulphate of iron, and one part of black-lead, and mixing with water to the consistency of cream.
301
PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING
PROCESSES,
By A
whenever possible
to
to adapt the printing process the class of negative it is desired to print from
showing
prints
PRINTER.
;
rather faint,
it
is
by making the
IV.Silver Printing Processes Negatives their Good and Bad Qualities Contact Printing on Albumenized Silver Paper Useful Hints Trimming and Washing the Prints Toning SolutionsToning with the Acetate of Soda Bath Treatment of Prints with Common Washing SodaToning to a Purple Tone Treatment of Prints with Salt Toning to a Warm BrownWashing and Fixing Final Washing and Drying.
on bromide paper. These prints, having to be developed before the image appears, instead of being "printed out" direct, defects in the
negative can very often be remedied
by
careful
The
good
SHALL now
possible,
treat, in as few words as on the printing, washing, toning, and fixing of albumenized
is
most suitable negative for procuring from an albumenized paper is one which is tolerably dense, with plenty of detail and a fair amount of half tone. The
prints
negative
is
prints.
This process
it is
tolerably well
is
known,
because
least
in 'general use, at
Latterly, however,
up
to
other processes are becoming strong rivals to the old silver print, and which are at once both
artistic.
The Negative. I am not going to enter upon the general manipulation of negatives in the shape of retouching and the "dodging up" of
faulty pictures. I need only say here, that after a negative is developed, fixed,
downwards upon the glass, and the frame exposed daylight. The process of printing now commences but with what rapidity this takes place depends, first, upon the density of the negative, and, second, upon the amount of actinic light which is present at the time of
;
In five or ten minutes the printing frame should be carried into a shady corner, and one side of it opened, to see how the printing
printing.
varnished,
to print
washed, and by no means foUows that it is fit from on the contrary, more often than
it
;
progresses
viz.,
critical point,
as to
;
when
depth
but
it
it is
not, the average amateur's negatives suffer some defect caused principally by either
from under
picture
to
be,
as
the
may
through
under
Burton
exposure,
may appear
exposed negative
nearer
may show up
making
is.
appear
much
are
the printing
should be
continued
until
the
It
than
it
really
Then there
negatives, all of which require special treatment in the printing operations. All these defects may be remedied to a certain extent by the retouching process, and in the case of thin and dense negatives, by intensification
generally advisable to print in a diffused light, but this depends a great deal upon the
negative,
some being so dense that they require exposing to direct sunlight in order to obtain a decent print. Imperfections in the negative can
be remedied
to
and reduction respectively. These remarks are directed to the landscape negatives, but of course apply also to portraits.
All these
a certain
extent
by a
little
operations
require
much study
in
order
to
become a
successful printer.
Before commencing
it is
to print, however, I
may
say that
advisable
302
contrasts, and absence of half tone, even if it be somewhat thin, may be printed in sunlight or strong diffused light but a thin negative will give much better results on this class of paper if it is printed in a weak, soft light. The way to
;
on the other then the washing must be very thorough. I am speaking now of the ready sensitized papers, and it is to these which I shall principally refer during the
slight
washing;
if,
is desired,
weak negatives
As
so I
paste a piece of tissue paper over the front of the printing frame; or ground yellow or
we must
consider
them together ;
green glass
may be used
.
There are one or two little "tips" I may mention here. 1 Be sure to have some sheets of
blotting paper, or a piece of
felt, between the printing paper and the hinged back, to ensure the paper being in absolute contact with the
wash the
This is very necessary, as the glass used by dry plate makers has very often a curved surface a fact not generally known. This matter, however, has to be borne in mind when printing from large sizes, 10x8 and upwards for even when plate glass is used in front of the negative, it (the negative) may break and
glass.
;
;
be placed under a tap which is placed over a sink. There are many forms of washing apparatus now in the market, and should the reader care to invest in one of these, I know nothing better nor cheaper than Vevers' ''Eapid" washer, at 7s. 6d., and also
this should
and
size.
The
often does
2.
if
too
much
pressure
is
applied.
in
"When printing, do not let the frame lie the same position the whole of the time, but
it
keep turning
round, a side or end at each turn. This will ensure sharper and even printing, because the light is certain to be
stronger in one quarter than in others, and if not diffused artifically, an unequal print would
no syphon or other complications in fact, it will work for a year without any attention whatever. Directly the vessel is fully charged with water it tips up of its own accord, and every drop of water is at once discharged at the same time, the washer immediately rights itself, and commences
entirely
; ;
to
fill
again.
is
or basin.
This
keeps the
be the result if the frame is left stationary or in one position throughout the printing. 3. Paper freshly sensitized at home can be adapted to some extent to suit the negative it is to be printed under it also loses more depth in turning than ready sensitized paper, which must therefore be considered when printing. Ready prepared paper seldom gives such good results
;
while
bottom.
Toning.
I believe
its
it is
used
by
all
preference to any other, although younger men, I know, go in for some latter-day toning
solutions.
it
gives,
The
acetate bath
is,
however, the
black and white prints. Having finished our printing operations, we proceed to wash, tone, and fix our prints.
a rule, chalky
or harsh
at the tone,
It
same time it allows a great variety of and gives fairly permanent results. If the
are printed deep
is
more economical
I will speak
pictures
on
this matter,
The amount
remark applies with equal force in all cases for no matter with what bath the prints are toned,
if
the prints are to receive before being toned depends a great deal on the toning bath which is employed, and on the tone d esired. If the acetate of soda bath is employed,
of washing which
they are not, in the first place, sufficiently deep in tone and body, that is, if the printing
has not entered far enough into the albumen surface, they will very quickly fade. We must now make the toning solutions, and
303
up another
is
print,
in this chapter.
Prepare the following stock toning solution Chloride of gold (Johnson's), 15 grains; acetate of soda, 1 ounce; water
the operator
is
a novice.
(distilled), 15 ounces.
the dish constantly agitated, and after a couple of minutes turn the prints one at a time,
Keep
face
and break
up
again,
is
and
the
it
will then
;
be noticed how
the toning
proceeding
wait a while,
and
again
reverse
prints,
keeping
the dish
;
better
when
it
has
been
made some
three
moving, to prevent the prints sticking together should they do so, they will be unevenly toned. The toning, it will be noticed, first turns to a brown, and finally, in about fifteen minutes, to
a purple or violet tone. necessary to tone a
months, than when only a few days old. The operation of toning consists in covering the image with a thin film of gold, in order to get
rid
of
Some
little
deeper than
it is
washing water.
I will
first
image should be. For a rich warm brown colour the prints are most thoroughly washed in several changes of
desired the finished
toning to a
generally liked, and at once the most serviceable as regards durability of the image. The prints
are put into the
to
first
water until not the slightest trace of milkiness The prints are then is discovered in the water. laid into a basin of clean water containing two
ounces of
of water,
salt,
and
after
washed
keep them well apart here they should not remain longer than about four minutes, giving
them a couple of turns over in the meantime. They are now liftedjfrom the first water, and put
into
this is then
poured into the basin when the soda has dissolved, and the rest of the water added cold. The prints remain in the bath for five minutes, during which time the first water is thrown away, and the basin filled again with clean water. At the end of the five minutes the prints receive
another short washing, and are then at once toned.
and are then toned. The toning in be very slow, and however strong in gold the bath may be, will not go beyond a brown tone hardly any colour will be lost in the fixing in this case, so this need not be looked The toning operations should or allowed for. always be done in feeble daylight, as it is so difficult to judge the proper tone by artificial light. The washing operations should be carried
this case will
;
the
The toning finished, the prints are again well washed in several changes of water, and are
then placed for fifteen minutes in the fixing Hyposulphate of soda, 4 ounces boiling bath water, 40 ounces dissolve allow to cool before
:
The toning
is
dish should be of a good size and of a deep pattern (not the shallow) white porcelain
;
the best, a
lOd.
:
10x8
Is.
follows
After fixing, the prints are washed for use. twenty-four hours in constant changes of water upon the thoroughness of this washing depends
;
sheet of paper to be toned, take stock gold solution, 1 ounce; add water up to 12 ounces. Pour the solution into the dish, and commencing to tone, taking up one print at a time, and laying
it
the permanency of the finished pictures. The washing completed, the prints are dried between sheets of white blotting paper, and are ready for
face
down
in the solution
nest turn
it
;
face
mounting. Defects in prints and solutions, toning formulae, together with sundry other matters of importance to the amateur photographer, will be
treated
up, rest a
pick
upon
304
NEW
CONSTANT-LEVEL LNKSTAND.
Most
of
my
glass vessel
readers, I am sure, have seen the which is very generally used by bird
supply the
It
M. BLACK, B.L.
birds inside
for drinking.
g^SVER
3
except near
base,
whence a
little
oblong
The
little
trough
cious seconds
with ink, and subsequently wasting many prein the process of rubbing pen
and
ever
ringers
clean
effect of
it
this
was
with blotting paper. The has been to make me, whenpossible, keep the ink in my
make
it
impos-
most absent-minded dip my pen deeper than it should be fit, to dipped. The keeping of the ink shallow has, however, one very serious drawback, and that is
for me, even in
my
up
in
the
trough,
the trough
at a
is
constantly
vessel, which,
it
is
much higher
low that the pen does not take up enough to write with, and so one has to be so constantly refilling his inkbottle, that it becomes a nuisance of almost as great a magnitude as the smearing This fault had often of the fingers with ink. made me long that someone might discover a device for keeping the ink in the stand always at one constant level. Not many months ago my wish was gratified. Turning over the advertising columns of a magazine the most inso
run out into the trough, and so overflow it, owing to the fact that by doing so it would create a vacuum in the vessel, which the pressure of the
outside air of course prevents
it
doing.
is
what we propose to use as a constant-level inkWe have only to fill such a vessel with bottle. ink instead of water, and we have in a moment a most efficient constant-level inkbottle. As, however, such an inkbottle would be very
liable to
my opinion
devise
it is
desirable that
we should
it
of inkstand to
keep
in
an
upright position.
my
opinion,
seemed
to
answer
all
my
requirements.
many
1
With
sphere, I
however, which
this
my
possesses so
many
things
in
sublunary
this
new invention
same end started up in my mind. Why did it not come when I was in search of such a thing, and why did it come the moment its discovery became unnecessary ? We will not waste time
in attempting to discover the solution of these
difficult
through the line a h (Fig. 1) Fig. 3 is a plan of the base of the inkstand; and Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate the arrangement for keeping the top
of the bottle in its place.
Having purchased
questions,
may
prove useful to
afflicted
many readers
of
Amateur Work
your inkbottle, procure three pieces of wood your own taste will decide what sort of wood it is to be one about \ inch thick, another about J inch thick, and the third, say, about \ inch thick, the thickest and the thinnest measuring, say, 6
with a similar bad habit to mine, and also to others who wish to be saved the trouble
inches
1
by
6 inches,
6 inches
by
inches.
shown
Regarding the
A
be anything you
light pencil line
like,
NEW
CONSTANT-LEVEL INKSTAND.
it
305
may
it
to the
provided
it
is,
roughly
base board.
The
;
be tried
Having done so, draw a from the apex of the triangle to the base, so as to bisect the angle, then lay your glass vessel back downward upon the wood, and after seeing that the middle of the glass is
speaking, triangular.
a
in its position
should
not
sit close
up
into
duced sufficiently with the plane to rectify that. Should the opposite fault manifest itself, that can be rectified by taking a little off the edges
of the hole cut in the upright board until the
whole thing
fits
perfectly.
FIG.
FIG. 3.
5.
5.
PLAN
FIG.
I.
FRONT
VIEW OF INKSTAND.
made
you next proceed to attach to the bottom of the base board the thin board upon which the
bottle will rest.
upon the wood. Then cut out the shape drawn upon the wood. Tou will next draw the
to
be done
is
to provide
down
thick piece of
a little half-ring, like that shown at Fig. 4, which will be screwed on at the back of the upright board, and will encircle the neck of the
bottle at the back.
To
this brass
ties,
half-ring
as
shown
at
just large
enough
to
now
the inkstand
FIG. 2.
is to fit
to
SECTION
THROUGH LINE
a, b (FIG.
I).
out of the ink in the little trough, and to polish or otherwise put the finishing touches on the
of
base upon the wood, cut that out. Next stand the bottle in the hole you have cut the board lying flat meantime upon a level table
its
wood.
stand
if
It
would be a decided
and
see that
it fits.
pattern in fretwork.
The next part of the process will be to fix the medium board at right angles to the thick board
along the dotted lines c d. This can be best accomplished, I should think, by inserting pins in the base board, drilling holes in the edge of
begin by procuring three birds' fountains two small and one large and as the globular knobs
306
MORTON.
day are so full of good reading that, with
entirely to
to
room
information
the
future reference.
and
of
Something must now be said about the you cannot fill them
ordinary inkbottles are
filled.
exception
those devoted
in the
way
When
the
lot of loose
to,
as to
make an index
any value
little,
so
whatever, the numbers for the year or volume must be kept carefully in order. As a result of this, binding up the volumes has become a common practice, and in the
back downwards, so
workrooms
of every binder may be seen large numbers of such volumes in different stages of progress. Amateurs, of course, like to
do
by simply dipping the bottle in a vessel of water, and then taking it out and drying it. It is
obvious that with ink
together
may
first
be of interest.
and a few hints as to and binding the numbers The tools for this work may
little cost.
we cannot adopt
the latter
For the
Amateur
will be
You
Work,
be required.
when
it
your writing-bottle by means of that; or you may purchase one of those combined taps and corks sold in most ironmongers' shops, and
fill
were sewn together with thread, but the process has almost entirely given way to the neater and stronger wires. With the plyers remove these staples, and then carefully pull
sections
sections
held
come apart
store-bottle, in place
it
The glue must all be removed from the insure good work this can usually be done
;
An inkstand made upon the lines I have suggested will, I am persuaded, prove a most useful
device to everyone, while at the same time
will
of
it
with the knife, running the blade along the edge of the
fold,
and peeling
it
off.
Do
it
if
the
form an ornament for desk or library table an entirely novel and striking character.
aspiring student decorator,
fingers. After this operation, some attention should be given to the folding. In a magazine like this the pages are generally true with each other, so the sections need
The
who
seeks to
not be re-arranged, but unless the top line on each page comes exactly over the top line on the next, and so on, the leaves should be re-arranged. Then the sections should
be piled up, each one registering with the other, as each
leaf
produce an original design, will do well to thoroughly comprehend the fixed natural laws which govern the composition and arrangement
of, so-called,
place.
has been made to do, with the title-page and index in It is well, also, to sew on a section of the advertising
these can be torn of before
the
book
is
When
with the relative strengths of the three primary colours red, blue, and yellow and how, by admixture, they produce three secondaries violet, orange, and green then, further, how
and square at the back, place a thin strip of wood on top and bottom, and clamp them in place with ordinary carpenter's' clamps, as shown in Fig. 1. With a square
mark
these
cuts
by re-admixture, pro-
duce tertiaries or greys, with their innumerable gradations. He must also understand that contrast does not
With
a fine
saw make
just
Remove
glaring pig-
ments in opposition
shall
even
be complementary
form imaginable, shown in Fig. 2, a book all sewn being represented in it. A base an inch or two longer than the book, two uprights, and a rod
of the simplest
if
wanted.
307
then at
glue to dry, and then cut the front edge. If a cutting machine cannot be used, a plough knife can be constructed, several styles having been described in back
(anything stronger than cotton will do), and bring the end of each up across the rod and tie. Thread a long, thin needle with strong cotton or linen thread, and proceed to sew the first section. The course of the thread is shown in
Fig. 3, the needle being put in at A,
numbers of
magazine or a very good job can be done with "a sharp knife, the principal difficulty being to hold both book and straightedge firmly, and run the knife true.
this
;
To
b.
when
overcome this difficulty, take a strip of wood a little longer than the book, plane one edge smooth, and bore a hole in each end, so that a large screw will fit loosely in
each.
.
pulled taut,
Now mark
where
it is
.line inside
of the section,
cords.
Now
on,
in
Be
from the first tie the two ends together at A, but do not break off the thread. Lay on section three, and go back as with the others, only instead of tieing pass the
needle
first
is flat, and not rounding when the board is put in place. With two long screws faBten
the book
the strip
down
firmly on
how
This
is
to
be done.
will
arrangement
down between
hold
the
two sections, and around the thread, holding them together so that
the thread will be locked
in with them.
difficult
hands
to
do the
cutting.
is
This
is
operation to de-
trimmed, round the back; this is done with a hammer, firBt pounding each edge of the back as it lies on the table. Then screw
into the press or vice, as
amateur
is
will see
what
it
when he
reaches this
point. After
making sure
is
started
and
shown in Fig. 5, and hammertheback smartly. The more compact and solid the back is hammered down (the rounding, of course, being pre-
hind
side
foremost,"
the
re-
proceed
with
served,
as
shown), tbe
satisfactory
maining
all
sections
until
more
the
are
sewn
in
place.
thread
Draw down
appearance
finished.
the
at
be
when
It will be almost
impossible
the
FIG.
for
the sec-
amateur,
firmly,
but
the
make
F, <V+without the i. sections clamped together for sewing backs, fig. 2. sewing frame, heavy machinery FIG. 4. METHOD OF HOLDING BOOK WHEN CUTTING EDGES. f the binder
is
end of the thread and cut it off. Place the volume in some kind of press (a good one, and one easily constructed, is described on page 515, Vol. I., Old Series), or between two boards, with the back extending over the edges, and screw into a bench rice, not too tightly, but just enough to hold the
sections firmly together while the back is covered with First pull the cords through the cuts, so that about an equal length will extend from each side. Allow the
glue.
When
to do this part formed but, with good of careful hammering, a very good job
;
can be done. It will be noticed that the fore edge of the book now possesses the concavity seen in regularly bound books. This part done, place a piece of thick millboard or pasteboard on each side of the book, and after fastening it down, as in cutting the front edge, cut each end then
;
replace in the press, with the millboards at each side. If a fancy job is aimed at, tbe head bands should now be put in
308
place at each end.
fancy calico or
Fig. 6
;
white and strong manilla paper, twice as large as a page, fold them in half, and after rubbing down the fold, place
Now
a straightedge \ inch from the folded edge, and turn up Cover the edge with the thumb-nail, as shown in Fig. 9.
the edge A,
first,
cover the back with glue, and spread a piece of paper all
it,
and allow
to dry.
is
with glue, and put them in place in the book, the shoulder
it may be formed in the a piece of firm brown paper as
If a
spring back
wanted,
following
manner
Cut
long as the book, and within \ inch as wide as the back (this is in place of the strip just mentioned, so that the back
of the book has no covering)
;
the shoulder made in the back. Turn back the cover, which will hug these leaves tightly in place. Trim the edges even with the edges of the book, and then
fitting in against
paste the
cover
it
book.
brown sheet nest the cover all over, and shut the Keep under pressure until thoroughly dry, when it
is
and
which
When
opened,
the
book
is
the
outer
method
part
being held
only
by
will
each edge,
and
these pages.
the covering on
back.
the
in
all
its
par-
The
covers should
ticulars, be exactly in
FIG.
FIG.
9.
ideas, but
FIG. 5. ROUNDING FIG. 7. METHOD FIG. 8. LACING ON
it is
a me-
The
latter is
3. COURSE OF THE THREAD IN SEWING. BACK. FIG. 6. SECTION OF HEAD BAND. FOLDING THE PAPER FOR A SPRING BACK. COVER. FIG. 9. FOLD IN END PAPER,
the back
a margin of about \ inch on the front and is properly rounded, the projecting
any can turn out a book at home that will compare favourably with the work of a regular binder, and thereby save a great outlay for professional work.
THE
OF
thod
by which
person
careful
THE
shoulder should be just high enough to come even with the top of the cover. Then lace in the cords, as in Fig. 8,
lifted
to
more
Work
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By
When
flat
TEE EDITOR.
P.
dry cut
off the
cover,
and hammer
on an iron surface. If the book is to be covered in half leather, which is the style best adapted to an amateur's ability, a strip of the
kind of leather to be used should be cut 2 inches longer than the book, and wide enough to cover the back, and an inch or more on each side. Pare the edges down to
nothing, and cover the inside with glue.
the press, place the leather
Pitman, Aubrey Road, Withington, sends me an account of an improved Water Motor which he has introduced and christened " The
Demon.''
its
The
reliability,
proprietor of this small engine vouches for even where a small supply only of water
;
With
the book in
on so that an equal space will be covered on each side, and turn in the ends, making as neat a job as possible. Smooth the leather down, and, before the glue is dry, with some hard, smooth tool, rub
under pressure is obtainable thus it offers a source of power to be employed for domestic purposes, or in the
amateur's workshop, that will be exceedingly welcome.
The
down the fold at each end, so that it will fit closely to the head band. Corner pieces of leather, to match the back, should also be put on the four corners of the covers. Pare the edges of these corner pieces thin, and they will fit in place all right. Cover the remaining space on the outside with bookbinder's cloth, marbled paper, or any similar
material.
kind this
commend water motors to demand no attention, but among the " Demon
that as a rule they
to be practically
nil,
''
some
of
for
months without
;
ing or adjusting.
effected in
An
and the
in four to
moderately
sizes, prices
first to
purses.
:
They
are
made
Now
turn back the cover, one side at a time, and tear out
protect the book
of fine
soiled.
as follows
1
;
5s.,
quarter-man power,
from being
Take a
two men power this latter size can be worked There is to higher powers by using a pipe of wider bore.
5s. for
309
RESULTS OF COMPETITIONS. VIII., IX., AND X. VIII. A .Prize of One Guinea for the best Specimen of Repousse Work in Brass. Practically there
was no contest for
sent in
this prize, a
fact rather to be
by the only competitor. These specimens upon which was embossed a profile male figure an artist sitting at work before an easel this was a very good piece of work, albeit somewhat stiff in drawing, and did not afford me so
consisted of (1) a salver,
much satisfaction as contemplation of the other specimen did. (2) This was a door finger-plate bearing a study of leaves and berries disposed in
scroll fashion,
conscientious
painstaking
AMATEUR WORK
PRIZE SCHEME.
XII.
The following prizes are offered for THE THREE BEST TOYS CONSTRUCTED OF WOOD OR METAL.
1st Prize
1
1
would be unjust, especially as I believe that such work as these specimens show would have taken a high, if not the foremost, place had there been a therefore the prize of One Guinea is contest awarded to Mr. Fredk. Holt, 22, Bunbury Street,
;
IX.
s.
ri.
10 10
2nd
3rd
,,
one tbat offers a pretty considerable variety to select from, and the materials enumerated are the two kinds which amateurs
is
Nottingham. Prize of One Guinea for the best Specimen of Amateur Printing. I suppose tbat I must not be so exacting as to expect a high staudard of excellence in a competition amongst [amateur printers, knowing as I do that expensive plant and perfect apparatus are indispensable to the production of
Certainly there
is
no evidence
about
the
batches of specimens
before
me
that
prefer
more
employ
in the
specimens of
handiwork.
type in the beBt condition was available at the time of their production ; but as lack of material is a
Originality ^of
complaint that amateur printers generally suffer from, it must not stand to their discredit. I there-
RULES.
(1).
All articles sent in for competition must be the work of bond fide amateurs
and by an amateur is meant workman who does not earn money by the particular class of work in which he competes.
;
award the prize of One Guinea to Mr. G. W. Clifton Terrace, Moukslown, Co. 1, Dublin, for the excellent way in which he has demonstrated his ability as an Amateur Compositor and Printer. Of course, there are among his work sundry points to which exception can be taken;
fore
L'Estrange,
(2).
May
notably in the heading of " Missionary Scraps " the metal rules are unsightly and unnecessary, and the space between the words should be reduced. In the
handbill, " Sale of
Each
Salisbury Square, London, E.C. article must bear the name and address of the
competitor, and the
Work," the display migbt be improved, and the space between the lines more
distributed
;
number
judiciously,
but,
altogether,
Mr.
which he enters.
(4).
L'Estrange appears to have made good use of the material at his command hence his success. The
;
MS.) must
is
enclose
an addressed
if
label.
If
the article
label
to be returned by
fully
must be
stamped
by
rail, the
name
X.
Every care
(5).
W. Burn, although very commendable, do not evince the same amount of care and painstaking as the above, and therefore must be relegated to second place. A Prize of One Guinea for the three best Suggestions for House Decoration. One competitor only sent in drawings and descriptive matter for this competition but as this essay exhibited no
specimens sent in by Mr.
(ti).
The
final.
VOL.
III.
(n.8.)
B B
010
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
IN COUNCIL.
" L. S. D."
:
fusee box, and nickel-plated. Fig. 2 magic Pocket Lamp. communicates the follow- shows the mechanical arrangement ing " Among the numerous novelties inside. D is a small reservoir containOPEN TO ALL READERS. of the present age, and the many ing cotton saturated with Borne prepared clever inventions for which the oil, and the wick, p is a cardboard disc Organ Building. Americans are so noted, allow me to (removable) containing twenty - four W. J. Westfield. The reason why call your attention, and that of your lights, or rather matches, on each side, do not recommend a 2-feet stop in a readers, to the above little pocket lamp, so that one filling will give forty-eight
AMATEURS
small organ
insertion.
is,
the tone
is,
of necessity
its
of which
send
lights.
On
(a)
The almost
invariable result
struck,
B,
which immediately
lamp
that in consequence of
that stop
it is
which gives a light equal to a small taper, and will burn for some
minutes,
if
;
required,
is
heard above all the others a result far from satisfactory. Still, as you have the pipes made, and bellows capacity fairly adequate, you might put the
stop
in.
exhausted
course,
but
its
chief
use
is,
of
slight
pressure
lid,
on the
but
is
button A
a
It
does
not
follow
that
opens
the
the
by
can
further
so that
struck,
two
operations
if
be
done
the
had the
tone,
specification in
hand,
separately
required.
Unless
oil
should insert a
feet
Dulcet Principal, 4-
will not
instead ; it would occupy run out, so that it can be carried about FiC. I. without danger of soiling the clothes. more room, and consume a nominal quantity more wind than the Though doubtless it must have been In order to refill the reservoir or renew
very
little
Fifteenth.
voiced,
detail,
If
your
organ
is
nicely
and
many an
opportunity to practise on
care to
it.
Take
England, I have, the disc, press the button c, when the no mention of it side opens as at Fig. 2. In this anywhere but whether such is the case position it will stand upright, and form Most of the patent or not, there must be many of your a stationary lamp. readers, both at home and abroad, to cigar lights, to my experience, are
introduced
into
nevertheless,
;
seen
that whom it is a stranger; and having you have such an instrument. I hope myself found it such a useful little you will be able to derive some benefit companion, either at my bedside at from my articles. I wish you every night, when requiring a momentary Organ light, or in my pocket when rambling success in your undertaking.
make
known
failures but this is an exception, and I have never regretted its purchase. It is manufactured by the 'Magic Intro;
duction
Company,'
New
York,
and
BULLOER.
CoiL B. Montgomery.
are seldom
size.
The
coils
lights,
connections
of a small
at 4s. 2d.
larger machines
two layers
fault
is it
enough.
test
The
each
Wild. To renovate your blackboard you must, in the first place, prepare the old surface by rubbing it
J.
down
paper,
since
works
in
well.
Did you
?
or
emery
cloth
then
after
completed
wire
is
the winding
is
was Next to
it
insulation this
most important.
The
continuity by
means of a Since no
cause
is
the
most
probable
the
of
failure
broken.
of
sweeping away the consequent dust, examine the board for cracks or serious indentations, and wherever such occur stop them with putty made black by FIC. 2. To rethe addition of lampblack. abroad and seeking the solace of a pipe paint, grind lampblack and a little or cigar, 1 desire to introduce it to blue in turps, and add to the mixture a It is as the small quantity of varnish, to check the their acquaintance. When circular which accompanies each lamp volatile quality of the turps. neither a toy nor a the grinding and mixing of the above describes it
'
trouble
humbug, but a
practical
mechanical
is
smoothly done,
thus
flour of emery,
primary.
A.
Tratnor.
it your hands, will amply repay any little from the attention you beBtow upon it,' It is in size and shape like an ordinary
the paint
made
to
the
board,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
A
H.
article
it
311
anticipation,
Resin Distributor.
{Chicago) writes
:
J.
W.
"I
little
enclose
herewith a sketch of a
Rubber Stamps. Security (Auckland, N.Z.) writes " I have just written to Messrs. Henry
:
which interested
to
me much when
few days
itself to
have handed your copy who no doubt will communicate with you. Ed.]
J.
Martin
and
to
Oo.,
rubber
stamp
was brought
J. S. P. The methods you propose apparatus they be a useful article to the amateur metal supply for rubber stamp making. I to employ in making a portmanteau working fraternity. It is only a box have been led to do this through stand would, I fear, result in lamentfor containing granulated resin but I reading the articles (by one of the able failure the top frame would be can assure you it must not be judged above firm, on pages 331 and 421 of strong, it is true, but the unsteadiness by its appearance, as when once used Volume II. of Amateur Woke, Illus- of its supports would for ever condemn for distributing resin on sheet metal trated) on Bubber Stamp Making,' the whole thing as a source of trouble work, or in making joints on lead and I should like to write to many and annoyance you are therefore right
*ince, as I think
Portmanteau Stand.
them
as
the
'
others in the
same
strain
but to carry
in scenting
out
all instructions
given as to obtaining
Now, to do the thing properly, you must frame up your stand as though I would you were constructing an ordinary
valuable
kitchen table
;
mention
that out
of
your
proceed in
this wise
books I have tried many things, and bave succeeded very well in almost
all of
having decided
electric
Our
bells
would
not
ring for
two years,
for
anyone, not
even a practical electrician, who tried tbree times to set them to rights, and then gave
last,
it
up
as a bad job.
In July
of the stand, including the height you desire it shall be, cut four pieces of
it
pipes,
it
It
its
will
soon prove
as follows
tin
usefulness
and
is
made
The
body
is
was a severe strain on my purse. This course I have not yet regretted, and I do not think I shall do so. I carefully read over the chapters on bells first, and then set to work according to Mr. Edwinson's splendid instructions, and after about four hours' work, or
rather
'
wood
the 2J inch by
sides
ends and after preparing these four pieces with tenons, mortise them to the uprights, glueing
for
all
and
two
strongly together.
for
Now make
by
halving
the
simply a piece of
fashioned cylin-
fossicking,' all
frame
the
top
or
and they have not failed since. mortising, accordingly as you feel inbeing 1J inches, the bottom being One cannot, of course, do everything at clined, and when you have inserted the clapped on.' The cap or conical once, but I do not despair of turning cross rails which will form the grating, coyer consists of a narrow piece of tin out some of the bigger and more in- screw it at top of the stand you have made to fit telescopically around body, tricate articles touched on and explained already prepared. I give rough sketch and having a conical top clapped on,' in your magazine. I am sure many of to assist this brief description.
drical in shape, the diameter of
same
ringing,
'
'
as shown in sketch, with a small hole our country folk who are forced to Scudamore Organs. at the top for the resin to pass through makeshifts for themselves, would find " E." -Who is Scudamore ? What it very valuable, but I am afraid it is in small quantities." I do not recognise the name I am looking is he ? not enough known. Tempering Files. amongst the known builders of church shortly, forward receiving Vol. VIII. to hardened first, are Files K. E. and then tempered. In hardening a as a local bookseller has sent to organs. Perhaps he makes American
file,
is
long and
Melbourne for
if is
it
for
me, and
am
it
organs.
would thank you for the information I each stop if the pipes are planted as you say. It is impossible to convey water vertically if laid in horizontally, have received through your medium." [It is gratifying to read such letters the wind to every pipe, as would have the side touching the water first would I have never seen an contract, thus drawing the file bow- as yours, and to find that Amateur to be done. ebap^d. Care must be taken to get an Work has proved itself to be so valuable organ with the pipes arranged with the even Umperature all over when drawing a fount of information to you. With largest in the centre for one stop, and the temper. The final dip is usually regard to tbe firm you mention, I the smallest in the middle for the next. rather doubt its existence therefore, in Organs are frequently made with the in oil. L. L.
;
requires hardening all over, care must be taken that it does not warp. This is .best avoided by dipping it in the
In closing, I
you mention are speaking pipes, they must have a separate soundboard for
312
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL
frame-saw with
self feed, to drive also.
:
Specula Grinding. whole of the stopB of one manual " Having "Alchemist" writes arranged as in the former ease, and the with pleasure the excellent stops of another manual, as in the latter read The action is then altered articles in Amateur Work on specula example. the grinding, I have resolved to try my to make the notes come right I have taking of the wind to the pipes would hand in this branch of art.
The general sawing 3 inch woods. The The shop is on a good extent, and it
will
be
1, 2,
is
and
locality
good.
level
is
ground of
it.
Organ obtained my
one storey. I I give have plenty of floor room. these few details through Amateurs in
'
speculum from Messrs. Farmiloe Bros., Westminster, and they prove very
it
will help
Mr.
his
Thorold
little
with
his
valuable
to
But, like other amateurs, satisfactory. Ouiana) writes: I shirked the rough grinding of the " I am glad to find from your Notes edges, which I can quite imagine would on Novelties in the February number neither improve one's patience or lathe.
J. T. C.
Amateur Appliances.
(British
instructions
on wind
distance
;
power,
it
friends at a
will
be of
'
great value to
many
that
possess
'
good turning
lathe, etc."
'Amateur Work, that thej John [J. W. S. will no doubt find pleasure I therefore hunted up a glass-grinder Wilkinson Co., of Chicago, have sent in a small way,' and got what I in perusing the second portion of Mr. you one of their catalogues, and that wanted done by Mr. Hastwell, of 19, Thorold's subject in the present part you feel yourself justified in again Bennett Street, Mack/Hart, S.E. The of Amateur Work. This paper fully
of
'
thickest
finished
glass
disc
was
very nicely
describes the
structure,
of
way
to
build the
mill
the
varied
j,
assortment gof
amateur
'
but
not
of
polished,
and the
in.
and gives
also a description
I say
again
power within the workshop. Ed.] you wilUiind I drew your '^attention charge for grinding the two was 4s. 6d., Fire Hand Grenades. to it, and at the same time forwarded which I thought fairly moderate, other " Can any 0. H. PritchArd writes you a specimen of some screws 1 grinders wanting 7s. for the same job. fellow-amateur kindly inform me of procured from them and I was glad I have found some difficulty in obtaining the composition of the liquid contained to see, at page 93, Vol. IV., another washed flour emery. " I at last obtained in fire hand grenades ? correspondent, S. M. L.' was able to some from Buck's, which they said was Fluor Spar. endorse all I stated. I have dealt with washed, costing 6d. per pound but I F. B. M. (St. Leonards) writes: them for many years, and [have never find that ou mixing this in water for had oause to complain. The small the grading, that a thick dirty scum is " Can any of your contributors tell me boxes of gilt and silvered escutcheon left on the top of the water, which is where to get fluor spar, as I cannot get any here or in Hastings." pins, and fine brass screws (pages 65
deepest
the
dents
The
the
'
of.
I therefore
and 67), I have been unable to get any conclude that the emery was not Replies Devoid of General Interest. anywhere else. Like most American washed flour emery. I have not yet The formation of a C. Baldock. firms, they forward catalogues free an begun the grinding, but hope to bring department euch as you propose would example English firms would do well to it to a successful termination. Hoping no doubt be a good idea, but at present follow. the address of the glass-grinder may it is somewhat impracticable. In the Camera, etc. first place, the members of such a prove useful to other amateurs." " Otto Orno " aBks whether Mr. department being competent men, Brass Rods. would expect to receive good salaries, Parkinson's camera is the best that has "Four ^Years Subscriber." You Amateur Work for in but I fear their remuneration would be appeared would no doubt be able to obtain the rather precarious if it is only to be landscape photography. I muBt leave short pieces of brass you are wanting derived from the fees of the few who the amateurs who have tried that, and at any of the metal merchants in are anxious to have professional opinion other kinds, to decide this question London. Communicate with John regarding their work. perhaps some subscriber will give his Smith and Son, St. John's Square, experience. " Otto Orno " also wishes to Prize Competition. ClerkenweU, and I do not think you be informed where in Manchester he Mr. George Pirie, the winner of the will have need to go farther. can obtain small castings in iron and prize in Competition VI., writes to say Wind Power to Workshop. brass, banjo fittings, steel wire for that he received the lens, which gave J. W. S. {Orkney) writes : "Part 29 making drills and taps ; and, also, him every satisfaction. where in Manchester he can obtain of Amateur Work just to hand, and I W. H. Bradbuune, who won the photographic plates, chemicals, and was glad when I saw the commence- second prize in Competition VI., Woodbury tissue. This is rather a ment of the long-looked for paper on writes " I yesterday (March 19th) Wind Power for the Amateur's Work- received the prize of Vevers' photo large order, but perhaps some comI am sorry that I made a roller burnisher, with thanks.'* plaisant friend in that town will afford shop.'
'
the information.
gas or
oil
engine,
With regard to the mistake in not giving fuller details "Otto Orno" must my situation as Mr. Thorold says.
;
of
13.
bear patiently with us, and, may be, his demand will be satisfied in the course of the issue of the next volume.
have a 5J-inch centre back gear turning H. J.; C. E. L.; T. H. Milne; R. lathe with 10-feet bed, and circular A. A. Bennett ; A Header K. A, saw, and I am constructing a vertical Baxter J. J. Wells B. S.
;
;
XXXI.
JUNE,
1891.
Scale
WARD, LOCK &
C
2 "to a
<
Foot
d e.Roc9r
PRESENTED
tbf
CO.,
313
to a
width of 12 inches;
fix
a piece of
f-
inch
holes
bamboo in them
Then bore
HESE
form excellent practice for the amateur worker in bamboo, and when finished are a two
articles will
by pieces of them to the uprights, being careful to keep them parallel and square. Then fix the two
and having cut the them 4 inches apart f inch bamboo, as shown, and fix
angular stays at the underside to the feet. Also make the handle of f inch bamboo, with inch rails underneath, as shown. Fix two
FIG.
FIG.
2.
MUSIC-HOLDER.
The
first,
a stove screen,
Fig.
1
is
grate in the
required.
not
and cover
all
shows the screen complete; the height is 3 feet 6 inches, and the width 22 inches. It is shown with a glass panel or mirror painted with birds and flowers, or it may be filled with needlework stretched on a light frame, or with leaded glass of various tints. The method of making the joints is fully described in the January No. of Amateur Work, page 90, and need not be repeated here. The uprights and cross rails are lj inches diameter. Fix the feet on the uprights as shown, making the feet 10 inches long, and opened out
Vol. III.
The
The second
that
is
music
in
in frequent use
is
it
is
shown complete
As
will
be
seen from the drawing, the legs are bent outwards at the bottom ; they must be boiled or
steamed
till
soft,
(New
m.
(U.S.)
c c
314
the legs to
till
AMATEUR CONJURING.
it
while
soft,
and
let
them remain
form.
let
it
slip in.
Next
cold,
when they
1
will
set
in that
The
making
each end, as
in
Fig.
25.
Then, in the
the depth
inches
rabbet, at
frames with their uprights, as shown, and fix the whole together, being careful to keep them square then make a bottom of f inch pine,
;
and the bottom, put another piece of brass, for the pivots to work in, as seen in Fig. 25a, and at the bottom of the door, at the opposite end to which the pivot is,
the top
chamfer the under edge, and fit it neatly in, and nail with fine wire nails then fix the two
;
you
like,
may
fit
be omitted
them
as the
little
extra trouble
the end.
Now
the door in
its
place, fitting
;
keep the whole thing firm and steady. The bottom of the legs should be cut off straight, and the holes plugged up. The projecting tops of the legs should also have turned discs of wood fixed on them, stained the colour of the bamboo, and varnished. Also stain the pine bottom, and varnish it. In order to avoid boring so many holes in
the cross
rails,
and when hung, make a mark on the bottom cross-bar, where the secret catch, which prevents the door from being opened, except by anyone in the secret, comes through the bottom
of the
cross-piece,
in its
place.
Now
You
o.
will require a
You
will see
being hollowed at the ends to fit the cross rails, have a wooden plug glued into them, and fixed by a long wire nail driven through the cross rails, the heads being punched down, and covered with dark-coloured putty. The bamboo should all be about 1 inch
may,
after
On
the
in diameter.
end of the piece a being pushed up, the piece b, being pivoted in the centre, will be drawn down, You will be obliged drawing the bolt with it. to cut a piece from out of the wood, to admit of the spring catch being let in. Then place the wood back in the place whence it came, after
cutting
it
so that
it
IT.
working of the catch. The operator will require to use it from the inside only the Now the most delicate part of side. proceedings comes to the front that is,
not
out-
the the
mirrors.
Illusion (continued).
you may
size
^SOW
want
(q,
to
make your
cut your
wood
to
fit
in the back.
perhaps smaller.
cross-bar
By
Fig. 22), as shown by the lines. Kabuet both the top and bottom of this bar. Now place your backing in, in such a manner that you have one piece in the centre, as near as
possible.
in,
by the
dummy
Now
After you have measured the mirrors, and have got them home safely, lay them, face downwards,
You
will next
on a smooth,
flat surface.
veneer,
Plane and true up the edges of the one left out. (The board must be wide enough to allow a person to pass through the The middle cross-bar must not be morhole). tised in, but only halved, like Fig. 24, and
board
when they
are fixed,
the audience will think they see the sides of the cabinet, whereas they only see the backs
of the mirrors.
Now
down
the side,
AMATEUR CONJURING.
by which you intend
sides.
315
to hinge the mirrors to the Cut a piece out of the wood, so as to countersink the hinges, and then put a piece of wood on top of the hinge, so as to hide it. As soon as you have fixed the niirrors, open them out, and mark, on the floor of the cabinet, the place where they meet. I forgot to say that a small semicircular piece must be cut out of each outside edge of the mirrors, so that the head of the performer may come through. I
the curtain rises, and, in a few words, tells them " how it is done " (sic), as he generally most
obligingly does, and then steps forward and throws open the doors of the cabinet, and invites the people (I beg pardon, I mean audience) to
it. They do so, and are quite satis(They will be, if the cabinet is made so that they cannot discover anything). Tou then close the cabinet, and, as you stand in front, to lock the doors, the confederate steps through
investigate
fied.
FIG. 23.
K"
'
FIC.26
I
FIG. 23.
CROSS-BAR TO UPRIGHT. METHOO OF JOINING FIG. 25. SHOWING PIVOT FIXED IN DOOR. FIG. PIVOT. FIG. BOLT SOCKET FOR 25A. STAND WHICH HOLDS SECRET DOOR. FIG.
26. 27.
FIG. 24.
FOR HEAD. THE BASE OF THIS IS 12 INCHES BY 3 INCHES HIGH AND PARTS MARKED AA, SLIDE WITHIN B B, TO ADMIT THE BOTTOMS OF THE MIRRORS.
;
Fl G.25.A
hope that I
am
am
only giving the skeleton of the idea, and leaving the amateur to mould it to his own requirements, I do not want to write about nothing, as some authors do.
The
quarter
a third of
and hold the mirrors in their places. (See Fig. 27 for measurements and particulars.) I think I have now finished all the details of the work, and will give a few hints as to the performance The professor steps forward, as of the illusion.
head through gives you a signal you throw open the doors and there you are. In asking the head questions, do not dwell too long on one subject, as the audience is apt to get tired if you do. Avoid all grave subjects, and try and get a few original witty dialogues up. Don't use those that you heard the niggers (I mean Ethiopian minstrels) at the seaside use, as, however good the wit, if one has heard the same before, it does not seem to go down well. With these few
his
;
and places
is
that all
ready, and
316
hope the illusion will go oft' successfully and any difficulty that may occur I shall be happy to smooth over, to the best of my ability, Should I hear of in " Amateurs in Council." any one being successful, I shall be satisfied that I have not written for nothing and if you
hints, I
;
This
will
and
62.
produce the same note, middle C With the exception of Fig. 62, they all belong to the 8 feet tone open series of organ
These pipes
1 .
all
is
why
" trot
pipes.
The
exception
is
a C* of
a lieblich
out," as the
see
it.
Yankees
and I
shall
be
These diagrams
happy to
AN ORGAN BUILDER.
V.
metal pipes that means, supposing the open diapason is a certain size, the remainder of the stops should be so many sizes smaller. With reeds, however, the theory is somewhat different. The speaking length of a pipe depends mostly on the distance that the tongue
of
;
Metal
Pipes.
Take, for
HE
feet
0,
that
is
C'
of the
open
22
is
maker's
to think
diapason
inches,
would
be
the largest
same noto
In large reed stops, such as double bassoon, and the double trumpet, contra fagotto (all 16 feet reeds), where the
pipes are placed on the
manual soundboards,
the body
who
separate note
of
metal
from
guarantee
its good quality of tone and workmanship. In the following notes I intend to describe the varieties of both flue and reed metal
no more than half the standard length for the lowest octave, but the tongues would project much further than they would do Other instances of the if the tops were longer. no particular bearing pipes having body of the with regard to speaking lengths of reed work, occur with the clarionet and vox humana. The length of the tube of the former is 13f
is
inches,
and the
latter
5^ inches at
C'.
The
pipes, giving
but
leaving
in a great measure, of
later chapter.
forth
The
flue pipes
quiet sounds, so
much admired by
with
those
who
less
tongues of
The other
section is filled
with pipes,
all
which motion
produces the sound. In flue work, the speaking length of each note depends on the cubical
contents of the pipe, and the
body must be
of a
will
be
much
no law laid down to denote the organ stops, two builders The seldom using the same measurements. scales working are of my give copies drawings I These are medium of the pipes they represent. size pipes, and might be used for instruments of much larger dimensions than the one now in Should they be required to produce progress.
There
is
317
y
FIG.S4.
FIC.5S.
u.r
u
FIG.56
il-r
FIG.57.
FIG.58.FIC.59.FIG.60.F1G.6I.FIG.62.FIG.63.FIG.64.
FIG.65.
7fT
jfr
ipr
ifr
ipr
ipr
ipr
)pi
ipr
?pr
ifr
ipi
ipr
F\0.53Mlfstv
2s
FIG.7!.
Jfalf sue
FIG. 52.
FIG.70.
Halfsae
Jhlfsae
318
a louder tone, a gentle opening of the aperture in the foot will be all that is required.
greater supply of wind will then ascend into the pipe.
piece of metal
then
is
inch thick
like
when
53.
finished,
and
Fig.
This
all
the languid.
Metal
with,
flue
may
chamfered
topside
down
is
the
way
sharp
round, on
the
only,
and
left
covered
quite
with
whitening.
straight.
;
cylindrical,
conical,
and
The
front
is
and
attached to the top. The first is represented by the open diapason, gamba, salcional, dulciana,
of 8 feet tone and octave, harmonic flute, lieblich flute, fifteenth, flageolet, and all ranks of mixtures of four and less feet tone. The spitz flute, 8 and 4 feet gemshorns, and cone gamba, are
principal,
lieblich
Fig. 53a
gedact,
a section of this piece f is the front. The ears are cut out of rather stouter metal than the body, and shaped like Fig. 52,
with the back outside edge
edge
is,
the longer
it is
whitened.
where
the piece has been cut out, and the top end of
and the viol de gamba, bell gamba, and horn diapason, are forms of the third class.
conical,
languid,
flue pipes have a body, foot, and two ears. Without any of the three former, it would be impossible to make
All metal
the speech.
The ears are adjusted to small scaled pipes throughout the stop, and to those of larger sizes, when over one foot in length.
So as
to
enable the reader to form some idea as to the construction of a metal pipe, I will
describe the processes through which the middle C of the open diapason would pass. The metal
having been already cast and planed over, a piece is cut out, 1 inch longer than size given at Fig. 50, and 6| inches wide. The edges and ends are shot straight, and the latter square. This
piece
made flat with a on a conical shaped mandrel with a flat side, to make an elongated half of a diamond on each. The component parts are now ready for connection. The whitening is carefully cleaned off all round the bevelled surface of the languid and the top of the foot, and with the former laid flat on the latter a soldered joint is made to hold them together, so that the flat places correspond exactly with one another. The lower end of the body is cleaned and fastened to the foot all round the bevel, with the mouth coming exactly over, and parallel with the front edge of the languid.
the front of the foot, are then
burnisher,
;
One
is
ear
is
side of the
mouth.
of the foot
piece
is
cut out of
one end the width of % of the circumference, and J of that distance in height, to form the mouth. The outside edges and bottom end are
planed on a slight bevel. This, and \ inch of the metal, is covered with a mixture of glue, water, and whitening, and left to dry; The foot is then cut out of a sheet a trifle thicker than the body, and shaped like Fig. 51. The top end and the edges are served in a similar way
to those of the body.
ing-up cup, so as to leave an aperture tl inch diameter. When the whitening is washed off
all over,
the pipe
is
is
The
put on to the metal to prevent the solder holding to any other part of the pipe but the bevelled edges. Fig. 54 is a front view, and Fig. 55 is a section of the note, thus far
composition
completed.
Conical pipes are
made on
to,
variously shaped
The larger
a
little
piece
is rolled
The expensive
round
mandrel,
already alluded
diameter of the pipe. The bevelled edges are then cleared of the whitening, greased with a tallow candle, or covered with a solution of muriatic acid and, with the edges, held quite
;
close together
soldered joint
foot is
on a smaller mandrel, a straight is formed down the back. The rolled on a conical mandrel, and soldered
are a casting bench, planes, a different sized mandrel for every other pipe, and different sizes of knocking-up cups and cones. Figs. 56 to 63 are diagrams of the front view of middle C of the varieties of metal stops
1
,
all sizes.
319
Fig.
63
is
conical in shape
nine scales
that of the
The
is the same diameter as the pipe mouth, and the bottom two-thirds of that measurement. The ears are made of thin
at the
mouth the tone bright and clear, and rather softer than other metal stops, such as the principal and octave (smaller sizes than the octave higher of the open diapason). An 8 feet gemshorn would be twice the size of
Fig. 63.
metal,
tuning
of the pipes.
Figs. 70
and 71
Fig. 57
of the
than the open, the diameter of the top one-third that of the mouth quality pure and round, with a tendency towards reediness. Fig. 58, a slotted gamba, eight scales smaller than the diapason, gives a pungent reedy note,
;
They are drawn full size, to show the various parts more distinctly. The letters correspond with one another in both instances.
The
block, a,
is
cast
solid
in
a mould, and b
is
than the two former pipes of the same name a very useful stop, both in accompanisofter
;
by turning a piece
of
alike.
The
slide, a, is
made
it,
made
is
as
may require. From the keraulophon (Fig. 59), 10 scales smaller than the open, we get a rather more subdued quality than the gamba series, but it
retains a certain
held in
as
its
place
by a wooden wedge, d
This
is
is
curved,
tone
amount of the distinct reedy produced by those stops. A movable slide, a, is fitted to each pipe, with a hole bored through the front, as shown in the sketch. The
salcional is
in the drawings, so that on one end a transverse piece of wire, which is placed across the tongue. Feed pipes are tuned by the knocking up or down of this spring. Its effect is to lengthen or shorten the speaking
shown
is
there
may
require
made
slide.
made
flat
or sharp.
without the
Fig.
60
represents
the dulciana,
11
sizes
stop made.
cold,
smaller than Fig. 54, the smallest scaled metal The tone is beautifully pure and
but with
it.
the
slightest tinge
of
reedy
quality with
celeste
are
made from
flute
only the
shown shorter than its actual length, to allow the cambre (as the curve is called) of the tongue to be more clearly seen. The brass reeds are divided into two sections, open and closed. Fig. 72 is the C C reed of the former class, and Fig. 73 the same note of the Closed reeds are only used for the more latter.
refined
qualities,
voicing
is different.
bassoon,
61) sounds an octave higher in pitch, is five scales smaller, but the same length as the open diapason. The
(Fig.
The harmonic
hole in the middle causes the pipe to blow its octave, and makes the quality of the note very wild but distinct.
pipes of the horn, posaune, trumpet, cornopean, and clarion. Fig. 74 represents the tongue for Fig. 72 the thickness would be
The lieblich gedact, Fig. 62, belongs to the stopped metal series, which produces a soft hooting quality, strongly resembling the flute. It is nine sizes smaller than the open. A
lieblich flute is
made from
this scale
an octave
higher.
No. 24 wire gauge and Fig. 75, the tongue of a C oboe, No. 20 wire guage. The reed of the former would project beyond the block it 'i\ 4J inches, the spring be placed across 7 body of inches from the end, and the length feet is latter 6 the body of The feet 3 inches. 8 inches in length, the spring across the tongue reed would be 3f 2f from the end, and the
;
320
HOW
TO
MAKE
is
Fig. 76
is
a sketch of
HOW
of the
oboe.
The body
is
tune
ROBERT
Jr.
COLE.
length of the tongue \ inch, and the speaking length of the same \ inch. Figs. 64 to 69 are
II.
drawings of middle C of the various reed stops. Fig. 64 is the horn or posaune, producing a loud, firm quality. Fig. 65 is the cornopean and trumpet, the former giving a sombre tone like that of the French horn in a brass band, and from the latter a clear, ringing sound is
obtained.
E may now
of
drum
Fig. 66
is
sound,
and,
when nicely voiced, it closely resembles the instrument from which it takes its name. The shades on the top regulate the quantity of tone
that each note has to send out.
to the clarionet.
is cylindrical.
Fig. 67 belongs
Unlike other reeds, the body well made, it is a better imitation of the orchestral instrument than any
Two on which the cord is wound. electro-motors will be required one for winding the cord up, and the other for unwinding it. Fig. 7 is a section of the two electro-motors, and the drum a a are the two electro-motors, which are both fixed on the same axle b is the drum, which is placed between the two electromotors, and which should be two inches long, and about \ inch diameter e e are the two ends of the axle, which should project about \ inch, and revolve in the bearings c c, which are
When
made
in
the
same
manner
as
those
The great
is
difficulty
the voicing.
Fig. 68
the middle
scale is
of a
The
smaller
than the horn, an octave higher, but larger than the trumpet. The tone is bright and
loud.
two bearings are fixed on to a piece of about inch thick. In Fig. 7 the two electromotors are represented by cylinders, and may be either small dynamos or the kind of motor known as Froment's electro-magnetic engine.
the vox humana. wide and thick, and the metal for the body is of stouter substance than any of the former instances. The tube is only five inches long, and at C C, although sounding 8 feet tone, the bod}' is no more than 9 inches in
Fig. 69 belongs to
is
The electro-magnets
of
The tongue
motor
used.
Each
of the
.'J
electro-motors
length. The tone is somewhat more nasal than the human voice, but in some cases a very striking resemblance is portrayed. This
The axle to which the two motors are fixed can be of iron or brass, and must be about \ inch in diameter, 9 inches long and its two ends, for about \ inch in length, should be turned down smaller than the
;
rest, so
fit
have rather deviated from the practical the work but to anyone following organ matter, the stops and varieties of tone would be first brought under their notice;
I
part of
is
These must be shaped as seen in Fig. (Fig. 7). should be dovetailed into the ends of the 8, and piece of wood, d (Fig. 7), and firmly fixed with glue or screws, after the motor has been inThe drum should be serted between them. made of boxwood, and must be \ inch wide at its two ends, \\ inches long, slightly narrower in the middle, and must be firmly fixed on the
between the two motors. "When fixing the two motors in their places on the axle, fix
axle,
them
electricity
HOW
contrary directions
electric
;
TO
321
to say,
when the
arrange
line
it
that the
drum
passed through one motor alone, it will make the motor revolve in one direction, and when through the other alone, it will make the drum revolve in the opposite
current
is
by
is
c (Fig. 6),
in the
of the crane.
The necessity of having two electro-motors, and consequently the trouble of constructing
_Cl
-TJ
-O.
&
FIC.9.
<=&
FIG. 7.
FIG. 11.
-f^*^
H
/>
FIG.
FIG. 7.
10.
VIEW OF MOTOR AND DRUM A A, MOTORS B, DRUM C C, SUPPORTS OF AXLE D, PIECE OF WOOD TO WHICH SUPPORTS ARE FIXED E E, ENDS OF AXIS. FIG. 8. SIDE VIEW OF SUPPORTS OF AXLE OF MOTOR. FIG. 9. STARTING AND STOPPING LEVER. FIG. IO. GROUND PLAN OF STARTING AND STOPPING LEVER FIXED TO A PIECE HOOK BY OF WOOD, AND SHOWING HOW WIRES FROM MOTOR AND BATTERY ARE CONNECTED TO IT. FIG. II. MEANS OF WHICH WEIGHTS ARE RAISED BY THE CRANE. FIG. I2.--SH0WING APPARATUS USED FOR RAISING EXTRA HEAVY WEIGHTS. FIG. 13. SHOWING MOTOR FOR TURNING THE PLATFORM ROUND A, MOTOR B, PINION WIRE CONNECTED WITH THE AXLE OF THE MOTOR C, PLATFORM D, CIRCULAR PIECE OF WOOD PLACED BETWEEN THE PLATFORM AND TOP OF THE TRUCK E, TOP OF THE TRUCK F, COG-WHEEL FIXED ON TO THE TOP OF THE TRUCK.
; ;
;
SIDE
direction.
This
is
necessary, as
you
will
want
Now
fix
is
the electro-motor
of
on to the platform
of
the crane,
by means
short screws, in
them, may be obviated by using one motor, having two commutators attached to it these two commutators being so adjusted that when the electric current is passed through one of them, the motor revolves in one direction, and
;
322
HOW
the
TO
it
CRANE.
each
when through
here
other
opposite direction.
how these commutators are made, as that would necessitate the description of a whole electric motor but if you are at all an electrician, you will be able to make them without any difficulty. We must now make the starting and stopping
;
lever
that
is,
a handle which
is
want
motor has two wires proceeding from it, there will be altogether four wires proceeding from the two electro-motors. Connect one wire of each motor to the binding screw, e (Fig. 10), and connect the other wire of one motor to one of the drawing pins, and the second wire of the other motor to the other drawing pin. Be very careful, in making these connections, that complete
contact
is
obtained,
for
the
smallest
procure a piece of sheet brass inch thick, \\ inches long, and \ inch wide, round off its
is sufficient
to interrupt
two ends drill holes \ inch in diameter. Into one of these holes screw a small brass handle, having one end pointed, and make this pointed end project slightly through the hole. Prepare a piece of wood 2J inches square and J- inch thick, and screw this piece of brass on to the top of it, near to one of its edges, by means of a screw passed through the hole which you have made at one of the ends of the piece of brass, and make the screw slightly loose, so that the piece of brass can be turned round without difficulty. The pointed end of the handle, fixed into the piece of brass,
corners,
and
at its
them and
;
with some fine Too much attention cannot be paid to these points, as neglect of them is a very fertile source of failure, and consequent dis-
sandpaper.
appointment.
Now
fix
them
Now
procure
two brass drawing pins, and fix them, 1 inch apart, on the top of the piece of wood, and in
such a position that when the piece of brass is turned round, the point of the handle will touch each of these drawing pins in turn. Fig. 10 is
a ground plan of this piece of apparatus
the piece of brass, b
is
;
is
it,
to the inside of the truck, from thence through the hole which you have drilled, through the cylinder of boxwood, represented by b b, in Fig. 3, on to the top of the platform, and then fix one of them to the binding screw, e (Fig. 10), and the other to the binding screw, f. Wires from the battery, which are intended to work the crane, are fastened to the two binding screws which have been fixed on the outside of the truck, and on turning the piece of brass represented by a, in Fig. 10, or the starting and
stopping lever, as
pins, the
we now
call
it,
so that the
and d are the two drawing pins. The piece of wood must then be fixed on the top of the platform by two screws, and in a position somewhere between the centre of the platform and the electric motor. "We must now make the connections between the battery, starting lever, and motors. Procure two very small binding screws, and fix them on to the piece of wood, to which the starting lever has already been fixed, and, by means of
c
and
in
one direction
when
it
it
and when
revolve at
Now
fix
the
arm
of the crane
still
in
its
place
it by with strong glue, and socket and the through passed screws one or two
further secure
a short piece of brass or copper wire, connect one of these binding screws with the screw
We
arm which fits into the socket. must now prepare the rope and hook by which the goods are hauled up by the crane.
Procure an iron or brass ball about f inches in diameter, drill a hole right through its centre, and pass through it about three yards of thin
which
to the piece of
a (Fig. 10), down wood, g h. These two binding screws are represented by e and f in Fig. 10.
fixes the piece of brass,
HOW
string,
TO
CRANE.
323
such as
is
bichromate
cell, or, at
end of
is
be
sufficient.
shown in Fig. 11, and pass the other end over the pulley wheel at the end of the pole, and tie it firmly to the drum, sliding the metal ball along the string to the end where the hook is. The object of this brass ball
is to
I will
now add
a few suggestions as to
how
may be made.
was described
The
former
article
may be
as
is
manner
that which
being unwound.
If
on the
electric tramcar,
to raise
up very heavy
an
illustration.
The
b,
which is hammered into the platform of the crane, and a cord, d, is fastened to the block, and passes over the pulley wheel at the end of the arm, and forms the cord to which the weight to be raised
is
and
the
hook
c,
be fixed on to the top of the truck. Another motor must be placed near to the edge of the platform, which must have one end of its axis consisting of pinion wire, aud must be
placed
position.
so
that
its
axis
is
in
vertical
is
attached.
We
off
The
machinery is represented by Fig. 13, in which e is the top of the truck, c is the platform, d is the circular piece of wood, also represented by k, in Fig. 1, a is the motor, and b is its axle, which presses tightly
This
against the cog-wheel
f.
arm
ochre,
and picked out with black the wheels should be painted with dark green enamel and the various other metal parts should be painted
;
be fixed down on the top of the truck by means of four screws, and should have tolerably large When the motor revolves under the teeth.
influence of the electric current,
it
in red or black,
according to taste.
All the
causes the
since this
other
polished, varnished,
it
and
wood used, and the taste of the constructor. In turning the platform of the crane round, you must be very careful that when you turn it back to its original position it is turned back in the opposite direction, as you will then avoid twisting the wires which convey the current from the battery to the motor.
or left plain, according to the kind of
pinion wire presses against the large cog-wheel f, which is fixed to the top of the truck, the
whole platform revolves about its centre. The wires from the three electro-motors, which wind the drum up, turn the crane round, and move it
along, should be connected with a starting lever
of the
same kind
As regards
size
the battery
lifted
and the weight of the load to be but if you have made the crane of the dimensions which I have described, and the load to be lifted weighs less than one pound, one half-pint size bichromate cell ought to furnish sufficient motive power to work it but if the weight exceeds this, one or two pint-size cells would be required. Under usual circumof the crane
;
;
having three drawing-pins, instead of two, fixed This should be fixed in a convenient to it. position on the outside of the truck, and by making the brass handle (see Fig. 8) touch in turn the three drawing-pins, the crane will go
through
rails for
its
The
the crane to run upon may be made either circular or straight, as described in the article on the electric tramcar.
stances, however, the weight of the load does not exceed one pound, therefore one half-pint
In conclusion, I may add that the crane need not be constructed exactly of the dimensions that I have described, but its size may be modified according to the taste, ability, and
requirements of the constructor.
324
ME TAL- TURNING.
METAL-TURNING.
By
probably make use of that instead of the
carrier.
it should be reand tapped lightly with a hammer on the bulging parts, which parts will be indicated by holding a bit of chalk against the work while slowly revolved by the hand. When it runs true enough to ensure holding up
little
III. Turning
Steadies Light
Bent
Cranks.
IN
this series
turning in the lathe. Space will not permit; and I assume that most readers of
are acquainted with, at least, the rudiments of lathe work. I shall, therefore, rather make my remarks applicable to special
aspects of the art of turning, and address myself
to the pointing out
to size,
it
some-
Amateur Wokk
and clearing up
of difficulties
In this chapter I will consider only the case work turned between centres, leaving the faceplate turning for the next chapter.
of
The turning
means a
and
driver, is not
between by any
always supposing, of formed and presented. The difficulty with amateurs, I take it, lies in the manipulation of the smaller and
task,
and begin As the tool to turn very close to the steady. moves away from the steady, and the work shows indication of wobbling and springing, move the steady in the same direction, and let it take another bearing. In this way, long and very slender work can be turned with fair accuracy. Too much pressure, however, should not be exerted by the steady, or the work will be untrue and bent when the pressure is removed. It should, however, be firm and sufficiently coercive to answer the purpose and no more matter to be judged by practice.
where about the centre
I cannot go into the forms of steadies they vary a good deal. For light work, those shown
;
more
occur so plentifully in
in Figs. 2 of wood,
and
3 are as
simply wedged
when there is a lnck of special appliances, I shall generally suppose the amateur to be possessed only of those
of the simplest and, for the most part, of
Fig. 3 is of metal, adjustable in a kind of angle bracket bolted to the lathe bed,
bearers.
home-
made
construction.
The slide-rest, or the hand tools, may be employed for turning such slender work. If the slide rest is used, the steady should be bolted
to,
To avoid
rest,
following
rods
or
are,
when
wire,
steel
are jointed to
made of iron and the parts by which they other rods are made separately,
practicable,
the tool.
and screwed, or otherwise fastened to them. But such is not always practicable, and then the
only course left open
they should be more pointed than those used for heavier work, and the feed should be exThere is some advantage in tremely light.
using hand
tools, the graver chiefly, because then the precise cutting pressure necessary is In the felt, and is not likely to be exceeded.
chuck the rods between centres, and turn with extremely light cuts, supporting the rods with some form of light steady, to prevent them from springing and wobbling. Thus, a valve rod like Fig. 1 (a), having an end bossed up, could be chucked with a carrier (b) made from a common nut, having a set or pinching screw tapped into it, and be revolved with a driver pin. The bossed end may run on the poppet centre. The
is to
it
will
be as well
to first
remove the
Even
in skilful hands,
and notwithstanding
are very difficult to
much
care, slender
rods
turn true, being apt to spring out of the lathe. In some troublesome jobs it is better to rough
down with
for finishing.
the cutting tools, and trust to the file Still, this is not turning, and
possessor
of
self
centreing
chuck would
ME TAL- TURNING.
L'ght bent cranks are sometimes a source of
trouble to the turner, because of tbeir liabi ity
to spring.
-i,
325
is to have the throw or radius The plates should be rigid, and
vary, but
of the shaft,
Fig.
4, it is
wrought
iron.
The
lathe driver, a,
wood,
s,
end pressure
FIC.3.
of the lathe centres will thrust the
bend inwards.
also.
steady
may have
Similarly,
when turning
the pin,
Fig. 5,
chucking plates used to bring the crank pin in alignment with the lathe centres thoir forms
The forked connecting rod and the forked and 7), whose shanks are turned circularly, are examples of light and rather troublesome turning, until one knows how to set about them. The proper way to
eccentric rods (Figs. 6
chuck
is
326
HOW
TO
go against the face-plate, and the bossed end of flat end of Fig. 6 go on the poppet centre. There would be several methods
Fig. 7 and the
of
securing
is
the
forked
ends.
The
easiest
way
to
along to
in detail
test
successive
lengths,
indicating
is
chuck, and allow the forked ends to rest therein or they may he pinched in the jaws of a
done.
If only a couple
rods have to be
it is
If the
better to
make
one of these gauges, involving not more than a half-hour's work, than to employ callipers.
Callipers
These temporary gauges need not be hardened or lapped as they should be if intended for repeated use.
dimensions.
;
found, in a
bulge the forked portion, due to the endlong pressure of the centres and when the shank is two or three inches in length, one of the steadies A long in Figs. 2 and 3 must be employed.
:
HOW
ROBERT
W.
COLE.
be clamped with a
is
often
wood
length.
be turned.
Steel
for
all
is
ornamental woodwork to cut a cube. To lay before the reader a simple method by
better than
model
is
stronger, a consideration in rods of or fs inch diameter, but also because, being more rigid, it
is
may although not with mathematical accuracy, but nevertheless with an accuracy sufficient for almost all purposes be
which, a cube of any size
is
worked with
It is
less risk of
bending out
of truth,
paper.
or fracture.
and similar character that furnishes excellent training for the amateur turner, developing that delicacy of touch and
work
of this
Suppose, by way of example, that we wish to cut a 2-inch cube of wood that is, a cube which measures 2 inches every way. First of all, we must jnake a kind of bell-chuck. Fix a piece of hard wood, about 4-J inches in
;
manipulation that
is
The skilful turner attainment of proficiency. judges by the sense of touch how much pressure whether his tools are operating lie may exert
diameter and 2 inches long, on to a face-plate with screws and clamps, turn its outside edge
perfectly true,
and bore a
of the
is
hole,
it.
1-J
inches deep
and
3 inches in diameter, in
is
Be very careful
freely, or
with
difficulty,
and
so on.
that the^hole
The accuracy
but amateurs
may
take
gauges.
alter,
Callipers
are
apt to
and so cause differences in diameter. The the gauges are not liable to such error only error they can cause is that due to wear. A gap filed in a bar of steel (Fig 8) will make an unalterable gauge or a clean
;
same diameter throughout, Then with a quite flat. pencil draw a line round the outside of the piece of wood inch from its edge, and another one | inch from this one. Select eight stout screws li inches long, and cut off their ends so that they have blunt points. Then bore four holes to suit these screws at equal distances apart on each of the lines drawn round the piece of wood, and screw the screws into them until their
and that
its
end
HOW
TO TURN A CUBE
ON THE
LATHE.
is
327
opposite to the one
which the cube is to be turned in fact, the chuck, with fittings complete, is represented by Fig. 1. Having thus completed the
;
and it is reduced until the length of the part which projects is equal to the length which you previously measured
with the callipers
;
chuck,
we
will
now proceed
First of
to
this opera-
all,
make
wood
measuring rather more than 2 inches each way. Place this cube in the chuck, give it a few blows with a hammer,
so that
it
one another. The two remaining sides are turned in the same manner, care being
taken, in each case, that the
face
presses quite
flat
which
is
turned towards
against
the
bottom
of
the
chuck,
place small wooden wedges or blocks between it and the screws, and wind up
The cube
that,
is
now complete
Fig 2 is a front view of the chuck with the cube fixed in its place, a being the cube, b the chuck, c one of the screws, and d
the wedge of
CHUCK
IN
WHICH CUBE
IS
TURNED.
on
wood
turn
less,
it
it is,
neverthe-
not so long as
it
appears, since
cube
is
fixed
can
be almost inun-
stantaneously
of
true.
Then take
the
tix it
it
out of
chuck,
and
is
in again,
the
Both amateur and workman who have faced the problem of planing up small pieces of wood will
testify to the diffi-
This face
is
culty that
it
pre-
then
true,
sented
therefore
ing cubes
2.
in
the
the part of
which
CUBE
D,
FIXED IN CHUCK A, CUBE B, CHUCK C, SCREW BLOCK OF WOOD PLACED BETWEEN C AND CUBE.
; ;
appreciated.
which
is inside, is
for copying-
The length
callipers,
from the chuck is then exactly measured with and the cube is then taken out and rechucked with another face projecting. This
face
is
saturated with
pue
benzine.
it
;
is
then
328
HOW
HOW
thumb
pulling
hard until
it
well apart,
It
first
HAVE
forms
appearance also destroyed, or the best effect natural one will not be obtained. It is somewhat hard to describe the manipulation of crepe
ready-made moustaches, whiskers, beards, &c, and given the prices for such items. These articles (at least the whiskers and beards) are generally formed on a wire shape, and are made with crepe hair, but unless very skilfully made, are apt to have a clumsy and a very artificial appearance when placed upon the actor's face. The ready-made article is very seldom worn by the professional actor, but, on the other hand, is much used by the amateur especially for small parts who
and
those amateurs
who purchase
personally at
proper
way
to
Having got the hair into proper working order, some copper wire, and cover it with black braid or tape you can do this by winding
take
;
off at
objects, in
spirit
many
with
be roughly bent
gum and
other liquids.
sidered, then, it
may perhaps be
if
I describe the way in which these whiskers on wire are made and the method, I may add, is so soon learned
;
again.
It
better article
soon be able to turn out a much than that usually sold in the
barber's shop.
The
first
;
thing required
is
is
this
sold
by Fox or
dif-
some dozen
and
it
is
best,
when
in town,
and bent round over the ears, to obtain the proper shape. The wire being covered in the manner described, it is again applied to the face, and properly moulded into shape. The hair is now sewed or tied on with some black silk, pains being taken to conceal the wirework shape. Apply the shape to the face occasionally, to see how and where the hair covers. Next brush and comb down the hair, and then finally trim into
shape with a pair of sharp
place the beard
;
to pay a visit to either of these well-known and interesting stage museums, and select the colours which suits one's fancy. The attendant will also advise as to the most useful and generally required shades, besides showing you
scissors.
Some people
many
attractive
novelties
in connection
with
the trade.
As I have
long lengths,
pull
use.
upon the face of another person they can then better judge when the to trim it necessary effect has been obtained. The illustrations in Figs. 56, 57, 58 will give some idea of the way these whiskers and beards are made up. On the right the covered wires are shown bent into shape, and on the left, the finished I just now said, article upon the actor's face. that professionals seldom use the ready-made hirsute appendages, but prefer to work up some
crepe hair,
apply
it
be pulled away.
is
tightly secured.
I must,
; ;
STAGE.
329
way
of practising this
;
somewhat
difficult art
but
it
amount
of study
wonderful,
itself.
The crepe hair is well unravelled and worked up in exactly the same
way
as just described
but practise
some time, as the wavy appearance must be got rid of completely, neither must the hair be allowed to remain in lumps. The hair is fixed to the face with what wig-makers have styled spirit-gum
this well for
this, in reality, is
white hard,
spirit-
occasions smarting
few minutes
many
good,
glue
it
and
cut
up
wet it in water or the mouth, the former preferably, and hold it over the gas for a minute
use,
;
To
or so
this melts
stick is
and the
be
less
"fixatives," guaranteed to be
harmI
and pleasant
to
to use,
advertised
in
but
am
unable
hands on the addresses of the makers just now neither have I tried any of them, so
cannot
my
speak
as
to
their
merits.
fixing agent,
is
taken
and roughly worked into shape, and laid upon the dressing-table if for
;
FiC 58
side whiskers,
at once,
prepare
both pieces
gently and evenly upon the face, and press firmly
and the moustache also, if one is to be worn. Always remember that a moustache should be put on in two pieces. Now apply the gum on one side of the face only, and
allow
it
it
is
secured,
which
will
to partially dry;
be in about a minute. Treat the other side of the face and upper lip in the same way and vol. ni. (n.s.) D D
;
330
HOW
all is dry,
when
with a pair of
scissors.
but I can assure my readers that unless it be properly done, anything but a natural effect is secured it is, however, very easy to accomplish when once the knack of applying the hair has been mastered and anyone with sharp wits and common sense should soon pick this up. The great point then is to get this knack, and perhaps the following few wrinkles will help to
; ;
when he
is
conveying to his
readers,
by means
of
personalities
tale.
Each
this
;
in words, but
to
do
consequently he
to
The great
is
perienced actors
to
"make-up"
box.
This,
effect
if
hair.
will
same
the
superfluity of hair
accounts be avoided.
after
Who
if
carefully followed,
should result in a valuable and natural makeup, and one likely to obtain for the wearer
eioss
between a venerable gorilla and a fluffy doormat he who sticks the crepe hair on in such solid lumps, and in such profuse quantities, that his features are completely hidden beneath the
Remember
in incongruity,
and
of
is
frequently the
only, laid
artificial covering.
He
is
taught, or ought to
and
gum
on
mind, that the emotions passing within the latter should be indicated by the varying expressions
at will and inclination, be
not place the hair on immediately, but wait till the gum commences
to
Do
which the human physiognomy displays, or can, made to display and this is how he proceeds to carry out this precept,
;
dry
it
in
palm
fast.
has stuck
i.e.,
by hiding
his features as
much
as possible
of the
with
face,
false hair.
which are accomplished by moving the eyes, mouth and muscles of the face generally, are of the very greatest importance on the stage
;
on eyebrows, place the gum on the forehead, just above the natural ones, and Should the gum get on the eyenot on them. brows, the natural hair will stick together, and
fitting
When
will
take days
to
and
clean shaved.
to play very emotional parts, or even comical characters, for the proper delineation of which a constant
are, as a rule,
again.
4.
Do
trim again
when
fixed
change of countennace is necessary, dispense with whiskers and moustaches as far as the piece will allow, which, in some cases, is altogether. Whiskers, etc., are not put on the face, it must be remembered, to disguise the person, who is playing the part, from the individual he really is they are, in fact, worn to assist in making up the face, which in its turn is made, as far as
;
little hair,
neat
much
theatrical
managers.
etc.)
Horace
Augustus Harris,
When
the make-up
done with, remove the hair, and throw it away, using fresh for every performance. The removal of the make-up will be treated
as painted in words
by the author
of the play.
upon
in another chapter.
; ;
HOW
TO
MAKE A
331
HOW
TO
MAKE A "SUSSEX"
By
"
FLOWER-POT COVER.
chopstick:'
JT
Fig. 4
then place
it
this is to
make
it
pliable
while
it is
boiling,
describing
how
is
to
make
the above, I
am
much, as
impossible to give to a
any rough board), inch smaller all round the bottom of the than J pot. By this time the rim will be in a fit state to bend anywhere without breaking if it is so, bend it round the smaller octagon, and mark
(out of
;
effect
N/^
Then
cut
shown,
and bend
make one
I
for himself,
am
sure he will be
satisfied
to dry while
you precut
In the
the
Fl
first place,
which I
describe
ness,
am
is
about to
cheap-
willow
pole into
its
as
we can make
to, if
Fl C. 6
=dfc
FIG.
5.
pot equal
shillings.
not surpassing,
better;
having
cleft
it
all
many which
quired
are
The materials
as
follows:
them to about inch thick, and reduce them in width to The ends about 2 inches. should be left to be trimmed
oft after
properly
3
feet
speaking, "sallow,"
By
it
this
about diameter a
;
inches
of
in
probably be dry
off its block,
if
so,
take
piece
deal
nails
together,
splicing
and
few
silvered
uptools
necessary
then
holsterer's nails.
The
hammer,
.
and a
FIG.
sharp pocket-knife.
,. , .i , Having got the timber and
.
the tools,
,
we
_,.
will r proceed
,
business.
I. ELEVATION OF " SUSSEX FIG 2 ._ PLAN f ditto. FIG section of pole for rim. to (b, FIG. 4 DITTO, CLEFT OUT AND TRIMMED TO
-
and nail one of the boards on it with a tin-tack in such a way that one edge is level FLOWER-POT. with one point of the octagon
Fig.
2)
;
take
another
SHAPE.
JJj?
|_'I
;
board, and
nail
board, and
corners,
by
convert
from a
-DETAIL OF SPLICING AT A (FIG. 2). -BOARD BEFORE NAILING ON A, BOTTOM. side, but other point
(c,
The
square to an octagon (as in Fig. 2); this is for the bottom of the pot then take the ash pole, and split it in quarters (aa shown in
;
then lap over one another about | inch ; nail the two overlapping edges to the bottom with a tack through the two
two boards
will
332
and one side is completed. Proceed with the other seven sides in the same way, until they are all done then nail the rim inside the
;
A BEDSIDE OR PEDESTAL
CUPBOARD.
BEING THE SIXTH OF A SERIES DEALING WITH ARTICLES OF
down from the top them so as to keep the angles upright, and each side of the same
boards, about 2 inches
of
course regulating
HOUSEHOLD UTILITY.
By ED.
C.
width.
it
difficult
on paper, but
come remarkably easy in practice. Having got so far, you must next trim the boards off, top and bottom, with the knife, which, if sharp, will be a very easy matter having cut them off level, then, with the same tool, cut notches round the top, and hollow out the bottoms (as shown in Pig. 1), and you will, I am sure, be pleased with your work. I w ould recommend you to finish the flower-pot with enamel of different colours, which should be done next and for the finishing touch, drive a
will
;
;
ROE,
of London Institute.
are the occasions upon which I have remarked the great usefulness of a bedside cupboard, the top being especially useful, not to mention the additional convenience afforded by the cupboard beneath. Suffice it to say, that I do not doubt for one moment but that wherever such a piece of furniture is installed, it will be much esteemed. Let us, in a few words, review the proposed work as a whole, and then proceed with the Regarding any points of novelty little details.
ANY
but whether
its
it
is
break
by attaching three cords to the rim. Before concluding, I would mention that the size I
have given
lessen
is
my
readers can
it to suit their own wants ; and if there are any particulars not quite clear to them, I
uses and advantages are very great, as a cupboard used for such purpose as is intended and this, it must be will in time smell very foul acknowledged, is a thing to be abhorred, and prevented at any cost. The perforated panel will afford ample ventilation, and thus we can
;
shall be
if
am
asked to do
It
avoid possibly unpleasant odours. The small capping will be found to afford a pleasing break
to the front.
is
easy to
make a
and
to
make
it
sufficiently hard,
and give
it
the
Take gelatine of a very good which melt in an equal quantity of water. The operation should be performed in darkness,
as daylight
is
The height over all is 2 feet 6J inches, the width of top 1 foot 3 inches, and of the sides The top will require to be 1 foot 2 inches.
finished
Work moulding
;
injurious to
gelatine.
When
melted, add 1^ per cent, of bicarbonate of potash previously dissolved. Then take about nine
by weight, the quantity of gelatine employed of very fine emery and pulverized flintstone, which mix intimately with the dissolved gelatine. Mould the obtained paste according to the desired form, and press it in as hard as possible to consolidate the mass well. After it has been dried in the sun, you will have a firsttimes,
class cutting stone for sharpening.
by 1 foot 4J inches long. on front and two sides (as section 1) before the moulding is finished, the housings to take the ends of the two sides must be cut in the underside ^ inch will be sufficiently To make a very good job, the sides deep. might be dovetail housed to top this method
1
foot 3 inches
will
effectually prevent
The
shelf
;
Carpenter
and rebated
size
to receive
and Builder.
and 5 for
of rebate).
The bottom,
also, is
333
after
The
at
on
all
that
is
is,
run down
6)
to the ground,
thus affording
(section
shown
fixed
may be
(Figs. 6
by
9)
brad small fillets on to fix. Of course, this may be considered a somewhat shady way of doing work, but really it answers every purpose in the case under
to
and panel,
and
consideration, at
any rate
FIC.4-.
the blocks are continued round sides, giving great additional strength.
unnecessary work
tions through top
The back
tioned;
is
framed square
is
are given at
may be called wasted. and bottom panels and Figs. 4 and 5 respectively.)
(Secstiles
provided with perforated zinc, as already menthe bottom panel is made in the
ordinary way in both cases J-inch beads will be mitred round the under edge, and bradded
;
Let us now proceed with the door (sections of and rails are given at Figs. 10 and 11). The transom rail is the same width as the stiles in this case it will be most advisable to
stiles
;
334
work the mouldings in the solid, and therefore the whole must be mitred or scribed together. The capping over top of upper panel (see Fig. 1 for section) is returned upon itself at each end, and glued and bradded on, or screwed from
the back.
so, it will
not
may
see clearly
how
the
The bead on the joint of door with sides is formed (as will be seen by referring to Fig. 10) by a J-inch bead stuck upon edge of side, and a small rebate upon door. A pair of 2|-inch brass
pressed butts will
works (Fig 19.) At each side there is a piece which is bevelled, as shown by the dotted lines, and which keeps down the slide, but allows it to move from end to end by the screw.
arranged that when the slide is quite to one end, the tool is central and when at the
It is so
;
a turn-
its
greatest
buckle should be
on at about 18 inches
turnbuckle, a nice
from the
floor
is
or, in lieu of a
fit
The forging
necessary
;
method
to
similar contrivance,
suitable knob.
When
of the slide is longer than but this is for ease in making. the bottom surface and bevels of the slide
have purposely omitted discussing the material and finish, as both will depend almost entirely upon the furniture with which the cupboard will be placed.
I
guides may be filed likewise, so that when put standing on a surface plate no light can be seen along the bevels (Fig. 20.)
Holes
(Fig.
19),
may now be
bored in
the
guides
for quarter-inch
screws,
and they
The
sections
are
two-thirds full
size,
the
and
side being
drawn
should be deeply countersunk, so that the heads of cheese-headed screws would be flush with the
surface.
inch to a foot.
be bored in
the
slide.
SOME CHAPTERS ON
SIMPLE ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
By
III.
with screws passing through these holes, and tapped into the faceplate.
is this
I centre the
slide,
J. L.
DWYER,
B.A.
FORGINGS
]HE
back centre to hold it in its place. Then I mark where screw ought to be by hole in slide (already bored), drill hole for screw, and tap. I have now the slide secured to face-plate with one screw,
have put down roughly the dimensions in order that the amateur may have an idea of their size, but their finished sizes will depend on the diameter and depth of the recess in front of the body of the cutter. If forgings cannot be procured, raw iron may be used, and I have seen some good slides made
of f inch by 1 \ inches bar iron, filed to shape, the centre one having a boss for the tool rivetted on, as is
is central.
B
^ inch
and put
it
while I
mark the
tap them, and screw on the guides. Fig. 21 shows a face-plate with the slide and two guides attached by five screws. Fig. 22 is
is
Observe that although this seems a long job, work is drilling and tapping the
to 16).
The
flat
under
are
surface
filed,
Vs
holes in the face-plate, as the holes in guides and screws would be necessary in any case.
making an angle
Having everything
surface and edge
;
335
Kthae
FIG. 15
FIC
FIC.
23
FIG.2I
336
that they will just
PAINTING.
tool, drill
one now,
body of the cutter, and so thick that they will be flash with the edge of recess. Bore, also, the
hole for the tool \ inch in diameter, so that it will be quite central with the periphery. When
this turning is done,
and
fit
If the
body
spindle
may be
but
if
it is
cast-iron,
nicely
with emery
out,
cloth,
may be taken
and the three pieces dropped into their in the recess. Holes for screws for holding down the guides may then be drilled and tapped, but that in the slide need not be done. One end of the slide may now be cut off
places
(that with
Mild steel or iron could be with ease hardened by heating to a bright red, and inserting in powdered salammonia and prussiate of potash then heating again, and plunging into cold water. If everything has been fairly well done, this cutter ought to work well, and last for a life;
time.
it
presents the
be replaced now, it ought to move backward and forward between the guides easily, but any degree of tightness may be got by
If the slide
tightly
screwing the holding-down screws more or less for there being a small space under the
;
N my
look
opinion
it
is
a great mistake to
painting,
and
guides,
to speak of
contemptuously, as a
they tighten against the bevel of the slide. If there should be any little roughness in the
fit,
low form of
higher flights
art,
who
Little
in,
and the
moved backward and forward, gradually tightening the screws, will soon make all to work smoothly. The screw for moving slide is the next thing
slide
whatever
skill
two what they consider in the artistic line. To employ and invention we may possess, in
as I have heard one or
aspire to
beautifying the
common
to
The
19.
make, and it presents no great difficulty. slide and guides being in place, holes are bored in the walls of the recess, as at a b, Fig.
The holes should be midway between the guides, and with their centres half the depth of the walls of the recess. The hole at a would be } inch, and that at b ft inch in diameter. Then the slide should be drill,. -\, by passing the drill
through a, to within about \ inch of the end, and the remainder with a drill which will allow of a J inch tap making a good thread. The tap may be passed through the hole a, and this will ensure its entering the hole at the end of the slide nicely and truly.
and making what would be otherwise mean, common-place, and uninteresting, into objects that give pleasure to the eyes, and suggest fresh ideas to the mind, is, I think, a means of and a putting our powers to the best use knowledge of the means of decorating pottery
;
and china
direction.
will
help
our
ambition
etc.,
in
this
The
plates,
that
we
use every day, can be decorated easily and a spray simply with some effective design or two of flowers and leaves from nature, if
;
The screw is a piece of \ inch steel threaded almost the whole length, but its point is reduced, and small lock nuts are fitted. The handle at
is secured either by squaring head and rivetting, or by fitting it to the round head, and passing a pin through a small hole drilled in handle and screw. The job is now finished. If a hole has not
you know enough of drawing to do this, is always effective, thrown across a plate. It should either be drawn and painted in with " old " rouge chair," in the manner tile blue," or that I described in my former article on the
or else it may be outlined with " Vandyke brown," and the colours filled in, and shaded broadly, when the first tint is dry. In subject;
first
it is
daffodil;
PAINTING.
in beginning
to
337
carefully
I have advised,
different
the
The
colours together,
first
;
attempt
use of yellow
flowers at
both single
can be
china colours. put on very thickly, for the outside, and " jaune orange " for the inside. The greens for the
leaves
and double, the marsh marigold, the yellow day lily, the sulphur anemone, yellow marguerite,
etc., all
make
I give
a drawing of a
and stem should be mixed, as I said and brown, to tone them down and daffodil leaves are of such a bluegreen tint, that some " vert bleu riche " should be mixed with the greens in painting them. A background of either "celadon" or pale turquoise blue, laid on smoothly and thinly, with plenty of fat oil and turpentine, to prevent its drying too quickly, and then dabbled all over with the "putois" brush, will harmonise
before, with orange
;
which I sketched from the natural flowers in they can be worked out the first instance daisies, on a background of pale white either as
;
celadon
green
or
or
in
monochrome blue
chair No. 2), on a ground left white. Or, again, the flowers might be in yellow on a chocolate
brown background.
such a brown, is made of sepia or vandyke brown, with vert bleu riche and carmine blended with it. A good quantity of each colour in
I have painted a plate with two single African marigolds, one a deep orange colour, the other pale yellow, thrown across it. The orange was of a reddish tint, and I succeeded matching the natural flower by a mixture of "rouge chair No. 2" and some tube orange (Lacroix's colour). I was very doubtful, when I made the experiment, whether these two
in
colours
would combine
at all;
and I unpacked
my
great
of
flower
came out
powder should be put out upon the palette, and each ground down separately, with the palette knife and some turpentine, adding a drop of fat oil to each when the powder is rubbed down enough not to be gritty. (Some colours are much harder and rougher than others in their consistency, and are then better ground down with the glass muller, which soon reduces the obstinate lumps that will not yield to a knife). When each tint is well prepared and made nice and smooth for working, they may all be mixed up together into one mass (with the palette When the whole is knife, not with the brush.)
blended into a rich brown, a good-sized camelhair brush should be taken and well filled with
the natural flower I had painted it from. Some of the reds will not mix with any other colour. There is a bright brickdust red that is generally
sold in the boxes of china paints, of these,
the paint.
Then
lay
on the background as
which
is
one
and
I believe the
is
those collections,
of
the same
smoothly and evenly as possible, not leaving the colour anywhere to dry in hard edges. There will be no need to " putois " this ground, as it
should be as thick and solid as possible
;
nature
and
to
French "carmine tendre," which is a much more pleasing tint, and will mix with anything. " Rouge chair " will mix with other reds, but
I think not with any other " pompadour red " the same.
colours
;
gain
this, it
may be
first,
when
that
is
perfectly dry.
and
group of variously coloured anemones red, pink, mauve, and white look very rich upon
this deep-toned
ground.
In painting
constant
use,
plates,
it
etc.,
that are to be in
is
better
not
to
put in a
background, but to leave the design upon the natural white glazed ground both because it
;
is
much
is
never
quite so bright
round the edge which can be used when something more formal is wanted. It is taken from an old Oriental plate, and is painted in only one shade of deep blue outlined with it first, and then filled in with the same colour.
of
a border, to be carried
of a plate,
338
PAINTING.
beetles,
regular intervals,
Butterflies,
and
flies
of
all
sorts,
effective
ornamentation for
delicate blades of
Anyone
who
fortunate
enough
to
supposed
the
most
but these
FIG.
I.
TILE
Japanese books of designs which travellers bring back with them sometimes from that country, will find plenty of suggestions in it for our work, both in geometrical patterns and in slightly conventionalised
obtain one
of
the
little
Admiral butterfly
pale-green flower of the ivy, or with a sprig of arbutus, its waxy blossoms and red and yellow
strawberry-like fruit.
flowers,
more
especially
chrysanthemums.
The
Fritillary
upon a
; ;
PAINTING,
339
month
red shades.
I once painted on a plate a large study of red
may be
seen at once
or a
clear
and
its
effective
But
let
me
advise anyone
or
who wishes
to paint butterflies,
any other
models from real specimens, either living or dead, or else from thoroughly
reliable books,
am
sorry to say,
is
and
it
is
butterflies
sometimes
of
decorative point
view,
while
with several blossoms on one Those low down the stem were of a dark crimson red, and this was matched by pompadour red, with a little purple in the shading the next flowers were not so deep in colour, and rouge chair No. 2, shaded with pompadour, suited them very well. The halfopened buds at the top of the stem were quite a pale yellowish red, which was made with ivory yellow and rouge chair No. 2, shaded with the red alone. A pretty grey-green background to this flower was made with pearl-grey and celadon, mixed and laid on thinly. I have seen a very dainty tea-set, with sprays of peachblossom, painted in blue monochrome, not in any
gladiolii flowers,
stem.
FIG. 2.
BORDER
none of these impossible insects can bear comparison with the many lovely realities which we can study on any bright summer day in the
country.
set
pattern,
but just as
if
little
flowering
Another
set
was decorated
all
I have mentioned two or three yellows, such as " jaune jonquille," "jaune a meler," and " jaune orange," which are all very useful for
the ground tints and shading of yellow flowers
over the
and painted in two shades of blue. These blues should always be of a dull, subdued kind, Any blues like that which is seen in old china. that are too bright can always be toned down
with black.
"orange," in powder, is the thing to use for the warm shade in green. This, mixed with sepia and " vert bleu riche," will produce almost any gradation of green that
Hancock's
wanted, if used in different proportions. There is a very nice " vert noir," which, used with those already mentioned, gives the very deep shade of green that is sometimes required ''Ivory yellow" in finishing a flower study. has the valuable property of mixing with reds (either pompadour red or any of the tube reds)
is
in harmonies of colour
beautiful
learnt from the Bhodian and Damascus work, that can be seen any day by a visit to the British Museum. The colours used in them are, almost
exclusively, a deep rich blue, deep purple, pale
may be
and the
to try
and instructive and reproduce these old designs, abounding as they do in points worthy of imitation.
exquisite. It is extremely helpful
340
TWO FANCY
TABLES.
TWO FANCY
By ED.
(For Illustrations
]
TABLES.
Junr.
O.
ROE,
see
this part.)
and plane edges carefully square, afterwards chamfering with a chamfer f of an inch The legs are in the on, and T5B of an inch down. rough 2 feet 5 inches long, and taper, when finished, from 1 inch at top to of an inch at
lines,
5).
invarably an accumulation of
all
hric-a-brac,
of
which requires a
Now, it was to accommodate such things that were seen to best advantage when placed upon a table, that the pieces of furniture illustrated were designed. They have served the purpose admirably, and
ing their various beauties.
will doubtless, in
be set out full size, for by that means only can we obtain the accurate angle to which to cut the shoulders of the rails. The rails are 3 inches [wide, shown in full size section at Fig. 2. The reeding can easily be done with a router and plough, the bottom moulding with plough and hollow, assisted by
this table should
many
1
cases,
fulfil
other re-
It_is
not necessary to
quirements.
The
to
original of No.
was made
operation
of walnut,
dull polished.
The
first
obtain and prepare the top, width of which is about seventeen inches. Generally speaking, a piece of hard wood, sufficiently wide so as to dispense with glueing up, can be obtained but should it be necessary to joint, be careful to properly tongue. Walnut tongues need not be used, for pine is preferable for several reasons, and afterwards the ends, where showing, can be cut out, and a piece of hard wood inserted. The best plan of getting the fines to cut the top to shape will be to set out the octagon on a piece of paper, and afterwards laying on the stuff, marking the points, and connecting them. For the benefit of those
;
The position upon Fig. 2. of course, the mortises do not run through, but only of sufficient depth that they meet one another. Glue, and wood pins will hold sufficiently, but
;
be careful the pins do not penetrate the face of. work perhaps screws would be preferable to
;
many. whole
of the holes
To
fix
may be
to take
Counter-
gouge.
Two
wood
who
fastened by buttons, in which case the rails will require ploughing, and buttons made with a tongue to fit the groove, and then screwed to the
top with a stout screw to each. The bracket, of which a full size elevation is given at Fig. 3, and a section at Fig. 4, should
drawn a diameter
parts
is,
;
(Fig.
1),
diameter
that
be prepared a little longer, to allow for fitting the elevation showing only a square top, whereas a bevel will be made owing to the spread of the
;
intersecting at
legs.
in e
through point 2 on diameter, cutting the circle the distance, a e, is the length of side of octagon required. Another method is to draw
;
couple of fine brads, well bored for and driven, will fix. Now, probably, our table
when together will be rocky so a description of the proper way to surmount this difficulty easily
;
two diameters perpendicularly one to the other, and bisect the quadrants this will, of course,
;
circle
into
eight
equal parts.
and effectively will, no doubt, be of great use to many. Stand the table upon an approximately level surface, preferably raised from the ground, say upon the bench, and then pack up the legs in
such a manner so that the top of table
is
it,
cut to
level
341
open
legs
to
is off
must now be prepared. The top rails will be required in the rough about ten inches long, but it will be preferable to prepare them in one
piece, 3 feet 4 inches long, as then
we
shall be
scratches or
marks the material. Now, if we take and cut to our scribing marks, we shall find that, provided our work is accurate, and the surface upon which we stand the table
a fine
saw,
accurate as regards level, the table will
free from
The sinkings in the rails size plan and section. Fitting the
prove a very serious matter, the ends being simply notched over the top of legs, and mitred at
angles, as
is fairly
shown
in
sketch.
fixed
If
we
intend
be
even a suspicion of rockiness. Remove the roughness left by the saw with a
It is
enamelling, they
used,
may be
is
wood
The
shelf
is
it
imperative that
we
fasten
hoped that the foregoing description is sufficiently lucid, and that many will be successful in making a good and satisfactory job, and thereby be encouraged to proceed with the construction of the second table, which is slightly
different in character.
Now we
means
same and
The
table No.
will possibly
eccentric
;
2, now about to be discussed, be considered by many rather but let such persons bear in mind that
and novelty, as we
after
all
know,
it
is
much sought
the
point.
However
peculiar
will,
design
may
appear on paper,
doubtless, prove
which
will
have caused
but
little
trouble to make.
The
above
will 3
be observed,
feet
if
is
which fill in partially two of the four sides. The whole of the rails are J inch square finished, and all can be fixed by means of glue and a few brads. If thought an improvement, an additional shelf might be placed on the top bar. Full size elevation and thickness is given of the angle brackets, of which four will be required. My task is now completed and I hope this description may afford a means of utilising profitably a few spare hours of the leisure that the amateur has at command.
average, namely
inches.
The
executed in pine,
or,
in fact, any
As
more
so, to set
out the
work
The top
is fifteen
inches square,
Introduction
chamfered on both edges, as shown in Fig. 1. The four legs had better be prepared about 3 feet 3 inches long, and tapering from a full inch at the top to ^ of an inch at the bottom they
;
gCEHHERE
little
common
those
which there
is
so
underneath the shelf need only be \ inch thick, and if we provide a \ inch tenon, it will be ample. Shoulder on one side
frets
The
in which we are compelled to stow away our books. Between the two upright planks and half a
dozen
shelves,
which
satisfies
requirements of some
of
us,
rails
frets
name
of
book-case, the
distance in point
342
design
is
seems at
first
sight
the fret-cutter,
and there the inventive genius of our masters in the craft seems to have stopped. Hence it was with real pleasure that at the Paris Exhibition I came across an article in that line, which must needs bring about a
" revolution " in the book-ease3
of
Now
to
begin
What
such
as
adopt
it.
Cuttle "
Having " found," I, like the immortal Capt. made a note of it," and gave myself no peace until I had " ferretted out " a mode of
and brass screws, would look well, but its softness would lay it open to accidental dents and bruises. Stained walnut would be handsome (those in Paris were of that material), so would polished mahogany. It will form so prominent an article of furniture when completed, that I would strongly advise one of the two latter woods and
;
p a ai
"
_..
T
a.
u-
a an
of 'Cabinet
FIG.
\.ffljrizontal Section,
ML
i
(a.)
Side view
S
ill
c
(b) Toj>
i.
3
FIC.2: View of frame Scale hn. -7A
new
making an
externally similar
article.
I say
external
so that the
my own
contrivance.
economy must be studied in the matter, then the framework, shelves, and all the concealed parts be of pine, stained to imitate the other wood selected for the legs, the top, the mouldings, and the bars in a word, for all the more
if
let
I early decided to give the readers of Amateue Work the benefit of my discovery (?) ; for, apart
visible portions.
As
utility
and convenience
it is
be best
to start
In
its
simplest form
mode
and of
tools
As
be seen,
it
can be
made
to afford
when
and
The
shelf
1
room
will
be over 18
and there be
selected, it will
which, supposing
thickness of the volumes, will afford accommodation for some 200 books
;
little
The cross-lines in Fig. 2 show where these grooves are to come in. The disadvantage (plus the greater difficulty
grooves at this stage.
of working) of this plan lies in the fact that
one
sufficient
to
contain
most
those in
frequent use.
"We
opposite
to
each
and
that, therefore,
may
not,
should be in
certainly the
neatest
the
shelf
way, and
they
UNDER PLATE.
fit
the
grooves, if
would
waste
Fig.
1.
also
increase
the
at
a,
space
shown
Ihe easier method is to C, SECTION OF UNDER PLATE. thick in the rough, especially (NOTE. THE UPPER PLATE IS EXACTLY SIMILAR, fasten ledgers to carry the SAVE FOR THE PROJECTION BEYOND THE RIM.) shelves. If this be the if of hard if it be pine
rz
purpose.
wood, or if the shelves are be carriei by ledgers, f inch might do, as the strain is very evenly distributed. The four pieces of which the framework is composed are 3 feet 2 inches long and
to
method
stage.
selected,
tha work
may be postponed
and
2.
As
will
be
14 inches across.
As
the
amateur
will
and at 6 inches from the back edge of that other part. As it is of primary
A, TOP PLATE. REVOLVING PLATES, SCALE 3
up
a
h's
as
strong
wood manner
It
in
as
is,
FIG. 4.
he
knows
how.
moreover, absolutely essential that the edges should be shot " true," and the ends exactly
This being done, the amateur must decide how he puiposes fixing his shelves the question being settled by the degree of skill in wood working he may happen The orthodox way is, I believe, to to possess. make a groove, into which the shelf may slide,
;
be exactly rOOtaEgUwhich it is fastened, and as the accomplishment of this requisite is not quite so easy as it looks, some of my readers may be glad of a wrinkle on that head. Get two pieces of wood, say 1 inch thick, and exactly 6 inches square. See to it that the angles are right angles, and the edges These pieces exactly square with the surfaces.
IN.
TO
FT.
will
exactly
fill
the
space
marked
a,
Fig.
1,
344
and are meant to occupy that space top and bottom. Begin by fastening them temporarily
to one of the parts of the frame, one being flush with the top, the other flush with the bottom, and the back edge of the frame flush with one
Then
first
round the square pieces, each successive part having its back edge well up against the part last fastened. The whole must be held together by screws, driven through the one part, and into the back edge of the other. Reference to Fig. 2 The bottom square will make all this clear. had then better be removed, the top piece may remain. Should the amateur have decided to fix his shelves upon ledgers, these must now be Measuring from the bottom, draw fixed. horizontal lines on both sides of the frames, and heights at the following 10J inches, 201 inches. For ledgers we will and inches, 29J
one and the nearest corner, with 1 inch of space between each (see Fig. 2, a a a a). This will bring the front edge of the fourth exactly flush with the corner (see section of cabinet in Fig. The cabinet at this stage being 3 feet 4 1.)
inches high, the bars will be found to be \ inch short. Of this, \ inch must be allowed at the
need twelve strips of wood 13j inches long, and twelve only 6 inches long inch square will do. Screw (or otherwise fasten) these to the frame;
and \ inch at the bottom. Now prepare the ; twelve of them will be needed, 14 inches long by 7 inches broad. Being so short, inch wood will be sufficient. The dimensions are quoted on the understanding that they are to be fixed on ledgers. If, on the contrary, the shelves are to be slipped into grooves, they must be \ inch longer and \ inch broader. Now
top,
shelves
work, with their tops flush with the lines drawn. The top and bottom of the cabinet must next be
may
be),
and drive
prepared and
square
if if
fixed.
is
the frame
inch
;
wood
22 inches
the frame is of inch they must be made of carefully jointed stuff (pine will do here quite well), and, like all the work in this cabinet, must
Eound-headed brass screws both here and in screwing the bars to the top and bottom of the cabinet, care being taken to have them in a straight line.
end of each
shelf.
Were
it
be accurately rectangular, and have the edges Fix top and bottom in carefully shot square. such a way that their sides shall be parallel with the sides of the square piece, which fills the hollow space, a (Fig. l),and the edges exactly flush with the outer edges of the framework
(see dotted lines in Fig. 2).
might remain as it is but that is out of the question, and something must be done to finish
it off.
first,
Make
but of walnut or mahogany, whichever has been chosen ( inch wood, or \ inch, at a pinch, will be thick enough), and at each corner fix a
block of wood, If or 1J inches, according to the thickness of the top. Now fix this top to the
Next come the bars. These may be of be 1 inch broad inch wood, and must sixteen of them will be required, 3 feet 3| (Happy the man who possesses a inches long. It is perhaps haraly necessary circular saw !). to point out that they must be cut somewhat wider, to allow of planing up accurately but a word of warning on another point may not be out of place. Do not be chary of using gauge, Much of the appearstraightedge, and square. ance of the cabinet will depend on these bars so see to it that they be all exactly of the same
;
;
under one (taking care that the edges of both exactly coincide), by driving screws from underneath into the corner blocks. Next procure (or make, if you have the needful moulding plane)
8 feet of
feet
come down
may be
utilised
make them,
by being hinged to the lower one. Should the idea recommend itself to the reader, and the modus operandi not be quite clear, he is
345
up his impatience
be forthcoming shortly. The feet (or stand) next claim our attention.
pieces of
IT.
Two
wood
will
be required, 2
feet 5
Materials
Swedish
Iron-
These pieces must be raduced for 7 inches from each end, to a breadth and thickness of 2 inches. The width must be reduced equally from each side, the thickness reduced wholly from the top Halve one into the other so that (see Tig. 3). they fit closely, and lie flat, and at right angles Fasten them together by means to each other. of glue or screws, or both bore a J hole with brace and bit, exactly through the centre, round off the ends, fix a castor on to each, and our " stand," as we shall henceforth call it, is com;
-Frame BobbinsArmature.
article
Na
former
describe the
could
luxury
of
plete.
We must
its
as to
and smoothly. And here let me say that if any reader of A v 4 tf.tr Woke knows of a better method of accomplishing this result than the following, he
allow
of
revolving freely
has
my
success.
As
know how
is
the cabinets
some manner. Although electric bells made as previously described will be found to work very satisfactorily under favourable circumstances, as the writer can testify from experience, and from the fact that he has several at the present moment acquitting themselves most creditably, yet they are less reliable, under adverse circumstances, than the bells upon which more time and workmanship have been expended. For instance, if the circuit through which the bell acts runs through a region of comparatively dry, warm, and even temperature, uncovered line wire may be used, and the magnet coils may be fixed, as before described, to the wooden base
but if the temperature is liable to variations, the atmosphere damp, or the line wire
of the bell
;
adopt
or replace
it
may
first
method proposed
founder
of
;
will
or,
not insulated, a loss of electricity, or " leak," will occur while the base board may warp, contract,
;
plates from
having a speciality of revolving office chairs. If so, they will answer every purpose. Fig. 4, a and B are sketches of the castings required, the faces which revolve in contact being shown.
mechanisms will be disarranged ; the result being that the instrument ceases to act, if not
altogether, at least, effectively or reliably.
The top
plate (a)
(b) 9
is
7 inches across,
;
under plate
projections
inches
the latter
In the more expensive class of bell-fitting, the former defect of " leakage " is overcome by the careful insulation of the line wire in a manner
suited to the particular class of
work demanded,
line is to
lie,
and
to the position in
which the
Tiles, cover
them
while the latter fault the bell ceasing to act through atmospheric changes is prevented by the mechanism being fixed upon a metal frame,
noxious
presently
to
be
described,
of
which,
notwith-
fumes that
clean water to
acid has done its
and take care to use plenty of wash the tiles with when the
standing variations
temperature,
remains
practically unchangeable.
work
to describe a bell of a
346
no lathe
the
file.
is
at hand, recourse
must be had
to
reader,
fortunately, a
class of
The
thick,
the
amateur to
when
a cheaper process
iron, say \ or A \ inch broad, and should project beyond the outer edges of the cores, say, \ inch. The cores should be so placed that the bobbins can
and failing more expensive material is not an absolute necessity, but only an improvement, and advisable if available funds are
efficiency is the chief requisite,
where
be brought as
Fig.
gives dimensions of
be preferlathe
present.
down in the
Very probably some readers may peruse this article who have not seen its predecessor on the same subject, in last year's volume therefore it would be well, for completeness, to describe shortly several of the processes there more particularly treated, at the same time referring
;
deep a shoulder at the end of each core, say long. If it is intended to make the and cores screw into the cross-piece, the diameter of
We formerly
of
as an example, from
in use for ordinary
took the 2J inch diameter bell its being the size mostly
purposes.
cores
made down cores, to allow for making the inside screw. The turned down end of each core must now be " tapped," or have a screw made on it, by means of a
the holes in the cross-piece will have to be
little
screw-plate,
The thickness
-fa
cross-piece tapped to
should be
;
or
f,
while in length about \\ inches the measurements of this and other parts, however, will be
left to
advantage there be, in this plan, is that the cores can easily be removed without taking the coils off the magnet, or unfixing the other parts The cores, again, may be rivetted of the bell.
to the
benefited
by a perusal
of the tables of
measure-
cross-piece,
is
any essential or material degree. iron to be preferred is Swedish iron, but in any case soft iron rod of the best quality should be procured. It must go through the
The
made, the head, or projecting part at the back, can be neatly trimmed with a file. Another method A inch hole can be drilled in the end of each core to J or f inch deep, and tapped to fit screws fixed in the crosspiece, in which case a shoulder will not be required. The screw may be made detachable.
:
may be
It really
is
makes very
;
little
difference
what plan
retain latent
or residual magnetism,
the
followed
the
must be heated to a bright red, in a good and allowed to cool gradually by remaining among the cinders till the fire dies out, and the
iron
fire,
have the cores neatly and firmly fixed in the cross-piece, perfectly parallel to each other,
is to
and
Each
of
on the other, become too suddenly by being taken from the fire and exposed to the air. The above being done, the pieces or cores should be turned on the lathe, when the outer rough black scale can be taken off, and
sive heat, nor,
inch the cores should have a small hole diameter, and about inch deep, bored in the top end, and a small piece of brass wire driven in it,
chilled
with the end very slightly projecting above the This is to prevent the armature sticking cores.
to the
magnet when the bell is ringing. The " frame " must next be made. That
this
he can trim them with greater exactitude, fit the bobbins to a nicety. If
should be done neatly is a matter of some importance, as the reader will presently see. It is made of flat iron inch thick and inch
347
is
not
The
magnet
is
attached,
and
the upper right angle for holding the armature stand on edge, while the lower part, to which
screws the contact
pillar, is
satisfactory.
The
reader,
he
is
really
an amateur in the
on the
flat
(Fig. 2).
The frame
is
generally
made with an
iron
FIG. I.
FIG.
Ct.
FIG.
FITTED WITH MAGNETS TWO-THIRDS SIZE. A, IRON CORES SCREWED INTO CROSS-PIECE B, BOBBINS CROSS-PIECE D, HOLE IN CROSS-PIECE FOR ATTACHING SCREW. FIG. 2. SHOWING FRAME WITH MAGNETS IN POSITION DRAWN TWO-THIRDS FULL SIZE. A, CORES OR MAGNETS B, BOBBINS C, FRAME D, HOLE FOR CONTACT PILLAR E, HOLE FOR SCREW FOR ATTACHING ARMATURE SPRING F, HOLES FOR SCREW FOR FIXING FRAME TO WOODEN BASE. FIG. 2A. FRAME OF ELECTRIC BELL PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF FRAME, FIG. 2. FIG. 3. THE CONTACT POST OR PILLAR. A, POST B, ADJUSTING SCREW C, TIGHTENING SCREW D, PLATINUM POINT E, FIXING
I.
CORES
;
C.
SCREW. FIG. 3A IS THE SAME AS FIG. 3, EXCEPT THAT THE BACK NUT IS MARKED C. FIG. 4. ELECTRIC BELL COMPLETE. A, MAGNET CORES B, BOBBINS C, FRAME D, CONTACT PILLAR E, ADJUSTING SCREW F, PLATINUM POINT OF SCREW I, ARMATURE G, PLATINUM CONTACT POINT OF ARMATURE SPRING H, ARMATURE SPRING K, BRASS POINTS TO PREVENT CONTACT BETWEEN CORES AND ARMATURE L, INSULATED COIL J, HAMMER LEVER WIRE M N, TERMINALS + AND - O, HOLES FOR ATTACHMENT TO BASE BOARD P, BELL PILLAR Q, NUT OF BELL PILLAR FOR HOLDING BELL IN POSITION, SHOWN SEPARATELY IN FIG. 9 R. BELL.
; ;
arm (marked c, Fig. 4), which connects the machinery of the bell with the bell itself, forming one combined iron structure. This frame, like the other parts of the bell, can be bought ready made but if the reader does not care to purchase, he can follow the plan
;
of his bell
had
to
348
either
He
which
-will
be referred
to
one decidedly to be encouraged, at least in the earlier stages of amateur mechanics for although a first, second, or even later attempt
is
;
is
may appear
relation to the
end
to
be attained,
yet
the
from the mere successful construction of the work in hand and to such crude attempts the operator may attribute the easy and successful accomplishment of later and more difficult
;
Supposing the frame be now made, it will appear as in Figs. 2 and 2a, the former being
drawn
also
to scale, and representing the cores as screwed into the back of the frame, which acts
The
undertakings.
1) can, of
some simple means by which the reader may construct this most important part the metal frame. It is hardly to be assumed that he will attempt
the casting of iron, unless possessed of facilities
for manipulating this metal, exceptional in the
case of amateurs
merely remarking,
try founding, let
that
if
he
be easily attached by a screw to the Fig 2a shows perspective of Fig. 2 frame holes must be bored at a a, for the cores also at e, for the armature to be screwed into spring to be screwed to and also at d, for the contact post or pillar, afterwards to be described. f f are small holes for affixing the frame to the
frame.
;
; ;
congratulate himself.
base-board.
The
is
a piece of round
frame from the wood of a cigar box, which he will find very handy, being in a measure prepared for him, as it is planed to a uniform thickness, and also being nice workable wood then make a mould of clay from it, pour in his metal, finishing with
;
making a pattern
brass rod, say f inch. A hole is bored through A screw (b) is then the side, and tapped.
made to screw in neatly, and project about f inch from the pillar when the screw is screwed up to the head. The point of this screw is drilled, and
a piece of platinum screwed or soldered into
it,
the
file.
good plan to make a rough model frame and coils complete by cutting from the cigar box strips of the same thickness as the metal frame will be, gluing them together to form a pattern frame, and gluing two empty cotton reels of the proper dimensions to the frame to represent the coils. The subsequent metal frame, owing to the defects of calculation,
It is also a
of the
mistakes in construction,
the pattern or model.
will
etc.,
generally
made by making
and the projecting point hammered down a little, so as to make the platinum round-headed conAnother hole, c, is drilled at right tact point, d. angles to the screw b, and is also fitted with a screw similar to b. The contact post is now sawn down from the top parallel with the screw The b, till the cut comes into the b screw hole. The armature object of this will now be seen. of the bell works against the platinum point d, which has been previously advanced or withdrawn to suit the pressure required. The constant vibration against the point d has a tendency
to drive
The metal counterpart be more likely to be compact and neat, useless space and waste of material being
then
prevented.
b, if it
were
not for the upper screw c, which (after the proper position or tension of the screw b has
Another way
on the
if
is
to
make
the
frame from
first
made
or,
one piece;
been found when adjusting the armature) is screwed tight, thereby closing the saw cut at c, and causing the adjusting screw b to be firmly
gripped.
preferred,
together,
flat piece.
The screw e
the frames.
is
This post
sometimes made as in
349
is
of
success followed.
"When the proper adjustment of b is got, the is screwed tightly down upon the contact post a the effect is to jam the screw b, by causing a tension on the metal. The position of the screw f may be altered, it being before the post, and screwing down upon it from the point.
nut f
;
The bobbins and, in fact, the wire, prior to winding, should, as formerly recommended, be
paraffin wax, to prevent might here be mentioned that if the wire is steeped in the hot wax, strained, and immediately run on the bobbins while warm, the bobbins can be wound more neatly and closely than if the wire is allowed to cool, and the wax becomes clogged and thick. The winding completed, the bobbins are placed on the cores, upon which they should slide smoothly
steeped in
melted
leakage.
It
Now
to
fit
the frame.
screw the iron cores into their places in Then purchase or make the bobbins,
sold in shops are usually
wire.
The bobbins
of
made
each.
boxwood, or some suitable hard wood, and can be purchased ready made at about Id.
If they are to be
yet exactly.
The
iron
cores
should project
lathe
is accessible,
about \ inch beyond the tops of the bobbins. The armature comes next this is made of
;
The reader, however, will find cotton reels no bad substitute for turned bobbins, if he has no lathe, and objects to purchase. Even if he has a lathe, by turning and adapting the reels, he will save time and labour, as the bobbin as it comes to hand is half made. The method of making the bobbins having
been described in a former article, it is sufficient to remind the reader that they should be turned
The
As
will
4, it
is sufficiently
long to project over each pole. This can either be of The Armature Spring.
steel
or brass.
If the former be
used, the
down
to the
and
2,
leaviDg the body a thin shell, and the top and bottom about ^ inch thick.
For particulars as
reader
is
to winding, the
relative
etc.,
the
mainspring of a clock, | inch broad, will be found to be very suitable, filed down, of course, A broken one can to the necessary strength. be bought at any watchmaker's for a penny or twopence in fact, as broken springs are utterly useless in clockmaking, they are willingly given away for nothing. If steel be used, holes can be punched, and the rough edges trimmed up with a file. If brass be used, the holes can be
;
drilled.
The holes
made
to correspond
The appearance
of this part will be as in Fig. 4, which gives plan of complete frame and bell attachment. A piece of platinum wire, about
Is.
The
writer has
made a
slightly
and J- inch on
addenda, as he is convinced from experience that the amateur will find the same of immense value, and that such will, no doubt, save him from many mistakes entailing labour, delay, expense,
is
this is
is
good
fixed.
flat
head
firmly
and annoyance which, unfortunately, amateurs of a year or two ago were victims to, being
compelled, in a blind sort of fashion, to obtain
may be
of the platinum
rivet loosening.
will
350
work against the platinum point, f, can be finished by being smoothed with sandpaper. In order to complete the armature, a hole
about \ inch should be bored in the bell end of the armature, and tapped so that the hammerlever,
j,
desideratum.
That
which I
may
;
screw into
soldered on
will be
lever,
may
find as
much
its
construction as did
to tap the
hammer-
the designer.
armature may be detached at pleasure. It will be as well to make a screw on the other end of the lever, to screw on the hammer-head, which makes neater work than soldering.
order
that
the
ing of the stand proper, although, of course, without that support, the " Magnetic Leaf
preceding parts of
make
is,
HE
occurred
idea of using mechanism for the purpose of turning over the leaves of
my
readers,
who
will,
of course,
have their
own general
minds in this inventive century that is, if one may judge from the number of devices to be found amidst the contents of those Patent Office volumes com;
to
many
ingenious
more
leaf-turning apparatus.
The mechanism
of the latter
is all,
I think, of
And may I
here suggest,
class of literature
little
a very simple character, so that the amateur need not be afraid of exercising upon it his knowledge,
may
be, perhaps,
is
worthy a
more
atten-
however
slight,
tion than
records. To a reflective mind, even the most unsound ideas may furnish material for valuable conceptions; and suggestions, I firmly believe, may be there obtained, which will become of
roughly describe, therefore, the action of this device, and then immediately give the methods I have found best in its construction.
I will just
On
fragment of which
shown
in that
if
notice, is continued 1, and which, you will downwards for about three and a-half inches below the bar on which rests the music, on
only
they did but possess that indispensable merit of simplicity. A defect, too, which they seem to
By
pressing
common, is their inability to turn over more leaves than the number of attachable pieces (whether balls, wires, or clips are used, the fault is the same) contained in the machine
possess in
form a half revolution, carrying around with it the long arm (a), which is attached to its upper
end.
of this hori-
the number of these I have never found to be more than sixteen very often only four are
;
provided with that wonderful power whose name I have taken the liberty to borrow I mean, for the purpose of enriching my title
zontal rod
;
present.
Observing this, I was led to attempt with what success the following description will show a something which should, without the neces-
the magnet, which, in the present instance, is used to attract to its poles small
of course,
clips,
351
some portion
of
my my
the
which position
its
automatic
same time
this
interesting subject
of the
realise,
clip,
being exceedingly thin, and also entirely independent of the machine itself, enables each leaf of every book you possess if you so desire This method makes it, to be thus decorated. of course, merely necessary to place the book on
the stand, where
it is
a very
problem.
leaf
In
order
that
the
may
not be
left
magnet
sheet
is
made
push
to present at the
(a,
the
Fig.
3),
back of which is
employed
FIG. I.
FIG. 2. PORTION" OF STAND SHOWING ACTION OF LEAF TURNER. FIG. 2. THE SCREW ADAPTED FROM ARCHIMEDEAN DRILL. FIG. 3. ELEVATION AND PLAN OF LONG ARM, AND ITS APPENDAGES. FIG. 4. BRASS ARC. FIG. 5. HOOK. FIGS. 6 AND 7. SUPPORTS FOR ACTION. FIGS. 8, 9, 10. SUGGESTIONS FOR CLIPS. (FIG. I, QUARTER FULL-SIZE FIGS. 2 TO IO, HALF FULL-SIZE.)
the
said action
so
the
above-
many words
to,
journey,
mentioned means, taken the leaf one-half its is made, by means of a suitable catch, to
turn in
its
are, of course,
pressed upon
magnet
to
fall
to pass
leaf this enables the former below the bar on which rests the book, instead of being detained at the now under side
When
behind
this pressure is
causes the
its
arm,
after
having of course
passenger, to
left
harmonious
make the
352
Passing on
leaf turner,
shown
in the illustration.
We had better
now
obtain a piece of
-|
brass-
and for
this
form an additional
obtain one of those small but useful tools sold, under the name of the " Archimedean Drill," for about 6d. From one of these you must cut a length of 3 J inches, turning or filing down \ inch at each end, to a diameter of A inch, a further \ inch being reduced to a diameter of \. This latter portion should have a small screw-thread cut around it. The other end, to a distance of
support to the long arm. The ends of this rod having been hammered, until they are each at least J inch broad, the one end may be drilled and tapped to fit the screw (Fig. 2) above the
pivot at a.
At the other extremity a suitable bearing must then be provided, for the reception
of the magnet end of the horizontal rod, after which bend the wire similarly to that shown in
\ inch from the shoulder, must then be filed flat, inch hole being drilled through the
screw in the centre of this of the long arm.
flat,
Fig.
1,
manipulating
it,
moreover, so that
its
when
the long
arm
is
placed in
it
appointed position,
turn quite freely
may
For
shall
this portion
we
8
arm
in
require
piece
of
steel
wire,
inches long, which should be bent at the point, e, to the angle shown in that sketch. It must
down at the bent end to inch diameter, a thread being cut on the extremity for the reception of a small nut. About f inch
then be turned
at the other
&
must be fitted to the screw. This spring may easily be made from a little piano wire, which should be wrapped around a pencil, or other round piece of wood or metal, of rather
larger diameter than that of the screw.
coils
The
inch
should
not,
however,
be made close
-|
little,
in order to enable
as
it
is
we
which you have drilled for its reception in the screw, the depth of which hole you must now mark off from the shoulder of the turned portion
of the horizontal arm.
require.
thread,
mark you may then cut a screwextending to the end, to fit which a suitable nut should be formed. Now cut, from a piece of thin sheet brass, the
this
From
push
(a, Fig. 3), and screw it at right angles to the long arm, 3 inches from the end destined to receive the magnet. Also cut from the same
After surrounding the screw with the spring, which should be 2-J inches long, place over it the nut which formed a part of the now mutilated drill, after which the arm may be put in proper position, and secured by the nuts. Now procure a narrow strip of brass, the length and form of half the circumference of the large nut, to the top rim of which in fact it should be
secured
by means
of
small
screws
passed
4),
to
form
Bend this strip at right angles marked a, then screw it on the arm,
through the hooped ends. The points at which this strip should be attached, lie immediately under the course of the long arm when the nut has been turned about inch from the top of
the screw.
inch from the shoulder, at the end intended to be inserted in the screw, being very careful
in doing this to have the
The hook
(Fig.
5)
must now be
formed from a 3-inch piece of brass wire. Its shank should be screwed into the centre of the
before-mentioned strip of brass. For the supports of the action, cut two pieces
of sheet brass
two sketches.
As an
additional guide, I
may
point out that the end elevation of the two arcs, with the push and the magnet, should form,
A
6,
when first arranged, an unequally limbed cross. The arm is completed by drilling and tapping a
a a
a,
353
The
holes at c
name As
is
may
also use,
screw the longer piece to the projecting strip of the music stand, the angle a
with good
drawn and
bottom edge, afterwards cutting a slot in the wood to correspond with the one in the brass support. The screw, with its accessories, must then be placed in the bearing of the piece just affixed, the hook being pushed through the slot, after which screw on the other bracket, with the limb, d, lowermost.
to the
them through the paper same distance from the crease as that of the magnet from the screw, where they may be
pressed down.
The pedal merely consists of a strip of suitable wood, hinged at one end to the foot of the music-stand. Through a hole bored in the
other extremity of this foot-board a cord should
then be passed, its end being screwed, or otherwise fastened, to the underside. The other extremity of this cord may then be secured to
the hook which
"When describing the semicircular attachment to the long arm, for convenience in explanation I said, you will remember, that it should be bent at right angles. This angle, however, must now be slightly modified, in order that the magnet and push may take up
suspended from the nut. if preferred, a metal rod might be substituted for the cord, and would undoubtedly give better results. In that case the hook would be unnecessary, the rod being screwed at one end direct to the semicircle of brass which partially surrounds the large nut, and at the other to a smaller nut affixed to the under side
is
Of course,
The the best possible position for their work. slightly horizontally projecting are must be depressed, in order that the poles of the magnet
to lean over a little towards the of the right-hand pole only extremity leaf, the You will then find, I think, clip. the touching that when the leaf is in the act of being turned over, the clip, through the hanging back of the
may be made
of the pedal.
of course a necessary
upper corner of the leaf, will take the same plane as the magnet, which would not be the
free
I have, indeed, attained very good results from the use of one of those penny ones sold at
the toy shops, though perhaps
it
the
first
instance.
would be as
must be arranged be made to rise to a perpendicular position when the arm which causes that movement is caught by the projection on
The
business.
is
placed, as
you will notice, around the screw c (Fig. 3), between the washer and the long arm, must always be protected, when not in use, by the
armature sold with
it,
the upper bracket. Should the extremity of the tenarc, when past that projection, display a on wood of piece small a screw drop, dency to a such in screw, of the left the to stand the
position that
it
correspond-
magnetism
Tou had
this
ing quarter
This
is
circle,
through
it
position to be maintained.
by a short
required;
And now
to the
music leaves.
this
oil.
Figs.
some simple pattern such, for instance, as 8, 9, 10. I have said " so-called tin,"
;
I shall have no fear in leaving to the custody of my readers the " Magnetic Leaf Turner."
354
AN
"OVER-PIANO."
of the ripped strips, and having planed and squared it, proceed to work the bead on three
sides for half the strip,
AN "OVER-PIANO."
By PEDAGOGUE.
and one
HE
why
paper is, I believe, somewhat new ; but seeing that we have an over-mantel and an over-door,
title
of this
other half, with the scratch tool (a most useful tool which every amateur can make for himself
in half
It is a fact well
an hour or so.) File the blade to the shape of Fig. 4, and while at the filing make two
others like Fig.
5.
known that
since the
is
enormous strain of
as
its
internal arrangements
much
as
it
and method of using can be found in several back numbers, so reIf the workman has petition is unnecessary.
The making
of the tool
Yet how often do we see it either piled up with music, or turned into a show-case for a number of ornaments or photographs, which, however much they may please the eye, are very apt to offend the ear and the temper of the musician. To avoid this, I thought it possible
period.
to
never used one, a little practice on odd pieces of wood will enable him to run a similar bead round
the front and ends of the shelves, which will greatly enhance the look of them. Of course,
all
may be
left
square, but a
result.
somewhat heavy
support
appearance will
or ornamental shelf, to
Two
the
top shelf
at
the back,
an
inch
square.
Then there
made
of the
First obtain
;
the
though a good
deal will
FIG.
I.
piece of
It
THE
side,
OVER-PIANO COMPLETE.
a board
4 feet
inches long,
or 4
inch thick, and 6J inches wide ; also about 3 feet, of the same sort, for ripping into strips
and on both sides The bottom rail at for the top rail at the ends. only remaining The the back may be left plain. and bottom
rail at the ends,
is the piece for the short posts, 2 inches long, at the front corners of the top shelf, beaded, like those for the lower shelf, on three sides the frame for the fretwork panel of
1 inch wide for the turned work, and inch wide for the rails above and below the pilasters. It consists, as may be seen, of a principal shelf 3 feet G inches long (Fig. 2), and an upper one (Fig. 3), 1 foot 2 inches. Cut the 4 feet 8 inches board in two to form them. Cut and square the ends truly, but let them be 1 inch shorter than the above lengths, because we want to hide the end grain with a \ inch strip glued on. Never mind about mitred corners, as they will be cut away. Four posts will be seen, two at either end of the long shelf. These are 1 inch square and 6 inches long. Before they are cut the exact length, it will be much better to have them in one piece, with a little to spare ; in fact, use one
square work
Fig. 5b, inch wood, and beaded with iron, rail plain a and mitred at the corners; and it. above under the top shelf, instead of
be necessary now to go to the lathe for an hour or two, and use up the remainder of the ripped strips in turning two pillars (Fig. 6), to support the upper front, also twenty-one
It will
a piece about 8 inches long (pattern Fig. 9), for holding panel frame in position, will also be wanted. The turning finished, the fretwork next
AN
"OVER-PIANO."
355
FIC.6.
Pillar
%
ir^g:
Ao
hWsae
1
F\G.^.Scr<rtditool. ffuJlsixe.
'MS'
71
OA
FIG. 12,% Sedumorpcst.ps.
F\G.Z.ottcm,shelf.7m-tt.I/<&^lwesfiem7igrail~bebHp3aters.A
356
demands attention. The panel (Fig. 10) is to be left white, so should be a nice piece of deal or, better still, lime or holly \ inch thick, and the brackets above the top shelf (Fig. 11) may be somewhat thicker, say f inch.
AMATEURS.
By GREGOR1E EDOUIN BEY.
-Introductory ConsiderationsThe Value of Electric Lights Lighting Powers, etc.
The designs are modifications of some given in back numbers and I here acknowledge my
;
indebtedness.
Having prepared all the parts, proceed to fit together. Take the corners out of the shelves,
an inch square for the same size, out of lower
posts (see Figs. 2
posts, also
shelf, for
IN devising a system of electric lighting suitable to amateurs, we must be guided by several facts arising out of
the situation in which
facts
two
pieces,
we
find ourselves.
These
the
tall
back
and
3).
The bottom
rail
may
have
be glued
with brads,
do not always appear on we to be elicited by enquiry. For example, wish I thus reads which " may receive a letter
:
but the top one must be mortised into the posts. A bottom rail need not be put on the upper shelf,
to light
but under
it.
Use one
up my workshop with the electric light. Will you please tell me how many lamps I shall " Nothing want, and how I am to work them ?
in
this letter tells
one the
size of the
work-
The
at the
the bosses
workman, or
all
end being turned for that purpose. To is very useful. Be careful to set them an equal distance apart, two at each end, six on either side at the back, and five on top shelf.
bore these holes a turning gouge
shop, the appliances at the command his proficiency in electrical science ; great importance to us in giving instrucof
tions.
of the
The
9-inch pillars
are
fitted
in
the
shelf,
same and
know the size of his workshop, we many candle power of light he how cannot know will require to properly light it until we how the shape of his workshop, we cannot tell how nor require, many electric lamps he will
Until we
tell
;
These
latter
may be screwed
to
the shelves.
flush with the
these should be distributed. Without a knowcanledge of the appliances at his command, we can nor lamps, the work to how not advise him
we properly
instruct
him
first
and
hot.
appliances, unless he
us
how much he
the
little
knobs at
knows about the working of electrical apparatus. steam If he is the happy possessor of a small
advise engine, gas engine, or water motor, we can electric dynamo a him to use it in driving
each end of the posts, and along the top rail, and to fasten the frame of panel in place, using the turned piece (Fig.
the centre.
9),
it
in
but
A glance at the drawing will show how, combined with a skilful use of the glue pot. Put the panel on one side till the staining and varnishing are finished, and then fix it with little
triangular blocks at the back, allowing
it
we must first know the surplus power at his command, before we can tell him how much light he power, is will get out of his engine. By surplus
the power over and above that required machinery in his to drive the lathe or other tools, and can with If he is handy
meant
all
to
is,
that
workshop.
work
walnut,
It
nails,
maho-
size twice,
and varnish.
may be
under the
brass, we should dynamo electric own advise him to in these workman good a not if machine; but made, ready machine a buy should he metals,
fairly well in iron
and
make up
his
If
will be
made
so
because these machines will not give satisfactory manner. results when put together in a slipshod and turning metal A man who can do some
357
should
rough parts
of a machine,
lamps
Therefore, before
cells it will
parts himself.
we must
the
also
know
the voltage of
lamp, or
resistance
of
of its filament.
dynamo
castings
many
now b9
obtained
mark
at reasonable prices.
On no account should he allow himself to be tempted into buying a battery to furnish current for lighting up a workshop or the room of a dwelling. Batteries for electric lighting have their proper work and sphere, which will be noticed further on but this is not in the workshop. The electric energy obtainable from a
;
letters
lit
asking
how many
electric
described battery,
named
battery
cells,
is
got
by oxidising
the
and
the electric
number and size of its cells, and the plates in The dynamo must also be described cells. that is, we must not only know the type, but
magnets and its armature, and the weight and gauge of wire wound on them both, separately. "We must also know whether the wire is wound in series, or in shunt, or in a compound manner, before we can deteralso the size of its field
light obtainable
from a battery is, therefore, much more costly than any other artificial light
in use for domestic purposes.
when used
on anything like
a large scale.
Some amateurs
please tell
Few
Most
power lamp
will
me how many
lamp
at
?
batteries I shall
you want
little
light-giving capabilities of
of us
to light this
"
man knows
an electric lamp. have been so long acquainted with powerful gas-lights and paraffin lamps, giving from sixteen to twenty-five-candle power lights,
as to
know
little
should be
that there
first
five-candle
ments of
him
How can we show an almost infinite variety of electric batteries, very few of which are in any way suitable to the work of generating current for electric lighting ? Also, that an electric battery is made up of several cells, and therefore he should ask, "how many cells?" instead of 'how many batteries." If he has carefully read the excellent articles on " Galvanic Batteries," by Mr. Allan Traynor, he will have learnt something about their variety and uses, and should know that there are few constant
electrical science.
is
power electric light. We even think a ten-candle power light no better than a rushbecause
light,
we have
lost
a correct notion of
the value of a rush-light, in comparison with also take the lights of the present day.
We
our notion of
from the composite imagine a five-candle general and use, candles in equal to five of giving light as a lamp power
a candle
those candles.
How
five-
we
lamps of
As a matter of fact, the light one composite candle is much superior to that from a standard sperm candle, such as those employed in testing the candle power of electric lamps. Then, again, the light from electric lamps is dazzlingly clear and pure, when compared with that of candles. The light from gas, and from oil, is more mellow and agreeable to the eyesight than that of an electric
given
from
up
same
bat-
light
from the
various
lamp, and we must, perforce, place such a lamp out of our direct line of vision, or temper its dazzling rays with a shade, to render it bearable
358
to the eye
our estima-
man.
tion
when we
see
it
and leads
when
us to form an erroneous opinion concerning its Notwithstanding its dazzling brilliance and consequent danger of hurting the eyes, the
merits.
electric light
is
Having decided on the number and candle power of the electric lamps to be employed in
lighting the room, let us next see
how much
electric
far superior to
power
energy
it
will take to
work them
first,
this is easily
and purity. An incandescent electric any way contaminate the air in a room, because its glowing filament is enclosed in an air-tight globe the heat of such a lamp is also said to be one-tenth that of a gas-light of
of coolness
ascertained by finding,
is
how much
light cannot in
equal power. Let us first see what can be done with incandescent electric lamps to light up a room ; we
shall then
will
be able to estimate its value. This be seen at a glance in the following table
Dimensions op Room
in Feet.
Lamps
Required.
a a g a $ 2
o
Length. 15 18
Width.
12 18
24 33 36 52
24
Height. 12 lb 17
10 CD.
16 c.p.
Ft. In.
3
6 10 16 25
2 4
7 12 19
33 36 52
23 32 40
8 8 9 10 12
14
6 6
40
30
needed to develop a light of one-candle power, and multiplying this figure by the total candle power of the lamps to be employed. In the Edison-Swan lamps it takes three and a-half "Watts of electric energy to develop one candle power of light suppose now we wish to employ ten lamps of ten-candle power each lamp, the total candle power will be 100, and the electric energy needed to light the lamps will be 350 Watts. As 746 Watts of electric energy represent one-horse power, we have only to divide 350 by 746, and add ten per cent, to balance loss by friction, resistance, etc., to get the actual indicated horse power required to drive the dynamo lighting up the lamps, which will be in this instance a trifle over half-horse power. The power needed to light up a smaller or a greater number of lamps, may be calculated in a similar manner, always bearing in mind that small dynamo machines, like small steam engines and small gas engines, are not nearly so efficient as larger ones, and consequently recede from the
;
to light large
This table will serve as a guide to those about rooms where the lamps are susof its occupants,
ideal
of theoretic
efficiency
as
they decrease
in size.
and
In
my
next paper
of
description
suitable to
number of lamps.
we
from a large number of ten-candle power lamps than from a smaller number of sixteen-candle power lamps, whose aggregate candle power may be greater. This shows that the light may be more equally diffused by distribution over a
larger space.
OMADAVN."
M.0NGST
Where
the readers of this magazine, no doubt the amateur banjo-makers number not a few for besides being
;
light,
we
shall probably
two
ten-candle
power lamps
to each
very popular as a (shall I say) musical instrument, it adapts itself conveniently to the resources
of
bench, and the lamps will have to be enclosed in an opalescent globe, or otherwise have their direct rays diverted from the eyes of the work-
so that I
hope the
following wrinkle
may
my
fellow-readers.
3,9
my thinking,
all
any banjo
bright
but
this,
however,
is
a matter of taste,
wooden hoop, which, muffled sound, and not the sharp clear ring that Now, there are is obtained from a metal one.
various different patterns of metallic hooped
banjos, patent
plated metal
and the hoop can be covered with a thin strip of if desired. The wire, which is of
is
white metal,
about
is
and
otherwise,
many makers
;
having their own special pattern but I suppose the one most generally known, is that which I believe is called
the
difficulty in bending it though probably, when bought, it will be cut from a coil, and have a circular form, so that it will only be necessary
be some
to reduce
as,
it
to such a size
fit
"Stewart"
pattern,
when
completed, to
and consists of a metal hoop spun over a wire, top and bottom, and lined with wood
shown in section at Fig. 1). To make this, however, is beyond the powers of and the average amateur
(as
;
wire should overlap about \ inch, and be halved top and bottom (as shown
;
at Fig. 3)
be soldered, and a small rivet put through it can then be smoothed up with a file and emery paper, and
;
at once runs
up the prime
When
whereas a rough of course, but steamed and bent to a circle, can be bought for Is. To make a hoop from the solid metal is also rather an undertaking, besides being open
bably about
10s.,
wooden hoop,
in the
an old have
place,
first
string is just
when you
in
few
brackets
say three on
each
and the
is,
FIG.
question therefore
how
side, cut and pull them FIG. 3 I. SECTION OF " STEWART" KIM. A, WOODEN out ; then put in the rest HOOP LINING B, STEEL WIRES C, PLATED of your brackets, and screw METAL SPUN OVER WIRES B B. FIG. 2. BANJO HEAD IN SECTION. A, VELLUM B, WIRE KIM up in the usual way, and
I ;
C,
WOODEN HOOP.
FIG. 3.
SHOWING METHOD
OF JOINTING WIRE.
at
This,
I think, I
may
claim
have satisfactorily solved, by forming a wire rim to rest on the edge of the wooden hoop simply, the vellum being stretched over it as if they were in one piece by which means I obtain a similar result to the " Stewart " rim, and the construction is really very simple. It will be
;
held firmly and is By following this immovably in its1 place. method, you will have a banjo that will give a clear metallic ring, and one that is really worth playing. I have made several upon this
principle, and am now playing one in place of a banjo with an attractive name, which I formerly used; and do not regret the change, but congratulate myself in so far as I have transformed an
you rim
more
by reference
to
The hoop
is of
360
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By THE EDITOR.
(5).
The
prize may be withheld if, in any competition, than three competitors enter.
lesB
(6).
The
Co.,
24 and 26,
The
May
with
details of
enriched
two
pattern sheets,
RESULT OF COMPETITION.
XI.
Three Prizes of 1
10s., 1, and 10s., respectively, for the three best Artistic Picture Frames for Engravings or Photographs. When I announced the well-worn subject of picture frame making for a competition, I believed that in that kind of work lay the aim and end of a great deal of amateur ambition, and I said to myself, there will be a brisk contest, and a close run for the first place. I even became anxious lest the adjudication should land me in a difficulty the like of which I should be unable to overcome, for I thought that so large a number of good specimens would be sent in, that to say which was the best one among them would be
full-size
other representing a
latter
is
window flower-box,
appropriate to the season when, as the descriptive text says, " pay greater attention to the plants where-
We
with we decorate our windows." The patterns are both handsome, and will be gladly welcomed by the fretworker. Photographic Catalogue. Messrs. Lancaster & Son, Birmingham, are issuing a list of photographic requisites,
the tasteful and expensive " get-up " of which at once proclaim it an edition de luxe among literature of the
catalogue class.
however,
said for
its sole
its
The appearance of the catalogue is not, recommendation, as a great deal must be contents, which are such as will prove eminently
and somewhat
alluring, to the
instructive,
amateur who
Apparatus,"
" How to Select Photographic worth considerably more than the price at which the book is marked (4d.), conveying as it does words of guidance to the beginner yet there are 64 pp. in all, which are devoted to the description, prices, and illustration of the goods the firm are able to supply.
is
;
well-nigh
impossible
but
my
anticipations
of
bewilderment were not realised, for the best specimen stood out conspicuously among its fellows,
and
was
The
choice of
cork as a material seems to have been pretty general among the competitors, a preference that may be
the fact that it is of uniform hard to work with, and requires only a sharp knife to manipulate it. Perhaps the maker of the frame which I have choBen as worthy of the first prize, had this idea present with him when he designed a picture frame to be built up of so many
accounted for in
AMATEUR WORK
texture, not
PRIZE SCHEME.
XIII.
is
offered for
pieces.
I dare say that he thought to be conscientious with tractable material, he must be elaborate there;
work
offered for
of bis.
first
This frame, which I have selected to takt place, is constructed in two parts, the outer
RULES.
(1). All articles sent in for competition must be the work and by an amateur is meant of bond fide amateurs a workman who does not earn money by the particular class of work in which he competes.
;
one, whereon are placed cork cubes, forming a checker pattern, and giving very bold effect and the inner frame, or mount, covered with J-inch
;
(2).
All articles in this competition must be received not later than June 29th, carriage paid, and addressed
segments of wine corks, placed round edge uppermost, and arranged in courses with an effect like basket-weaving. Apart from being a triumph of patience over a tedious taBk, this frame is really an
artistic
Robert Slaughter,
award the maker of it, Mr. Merton Road, Stamford Road, Kensington, the sum of 1 10s. None worthy to
object,
and
13,
(3).
Each
which he
(4).
enters.
and paBs on to the group of frames, to from among them one deserving the third
I
find
Competitors desiring the return of their articles (except MS.) must enclose an addressed label. If the article is to be returned by parcel post, the
label must be fully stamped if by rail, the name of the Railway Co. should be stated on the label. Every care will be taken, but the Editor does not hold himself responsible for articles sent in.
;
cedar,
and embellished with an inlaid scroll design (not original), and in size suitable for a cabinet photograph. It is a creditable piece of work, and I award its maker, Mr. A. Willis, 359, Moas Lane
East, Manchester, the third prize of 10s.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
OPE.V TO
861
IN COUNCIL.
R, C.
Organ Building.
ALL HEADERS.
glad to bear of " H.
H.
J.
"A
of
tinsmith's gauge
a great saver
in.
...
in.
...
Tenor C ... if ... L& 12J W.'s " success in making the pin puzzle Middle C 1 ... JA ... 6J box described on page 50 of the 0* ... ... ... 3 An improvement present volume. C3 ... ...&bare... 1J might be made by rivetting a bent Height of mouths, rather more spring, a b c, at a to the back of the
Eetep
"
OC
J.
...
If
If
25
is
^
A
is an article, I believe, your readers the writer having seen it (when in England) used the first and last time by a tinsmith liviDg in the vicinity of Newport, Monmouthshire, when it at once struck him as a useful device. Thinking than that more than one of your readers
time,
and
to
unknown
box.
| of the width.
on reference
and
2,
which
in.
...
...
Middle C 1
li
C
O^
If
21
...
...
...
...
... 4 f Height of mouths, bare j of width. The cost (approximate) of the two stops made from these scales would be
if
10
5s.
6d.
If bought in London, these run sixteen or eighteen I reckon that a pence per dozen. stopped flute takes 22 feet of pine, and a claribella from C 1 takes 17 feet;
using inch for the six largest notes of each stop, and f inch for the remainder. If you have the two books you name
on voicing, make two or three pipes, and voice them after your own fashion
in different ways.
little
practice
It
is
is
worth
all
difficult to
subject.
To
the
is
" knack,"
ence.
long experi
Chromatic pitch pipes would be you to tune your organ You will have to " lay the FIC. 3 . by. bearings" in fifths and octaves, like open, other tuners do, and work from that. show the box closed and respectively. Another good plan would It is a rather tedious job, and takes a FIC. I be to make the springs, b a and x long time for a novice to get them might like to be a possessor of one (Fig. 5, page 50) in one piece, and no right. Organ Builder, submit I articles, of these simple rivets would be required (see Fig. 3). "Organ" (Hull). The lengths of herewith a Bketch of same, which will, It will be seen that B. does not reach Wald Flute, 4 ft. tone, are I think, convey the idea as to how it is the bottom in this case. On page 50, 9 in. .. 1 ft. Tenor C made, without much description. We in the fifteenth line from the bottom, lOiin. Mid.Ci ... first require a piece of No. 10 steel " x " is a printer's error for " v." ... C2 wire, 2 feet in length at one end of 4f in. 2 in. Secondary Battery. ... this a scratcher is forged, like that C3 "E. S." I have searched the volumes The Piccolo Scale at C should be shown at A, in Fig. 1. The guard is of the Old Series of Amateur Work, lj>j inches wide, If inches deep, and next to be prepared, which consists of
of no use to
:
but cannot find any article on the 1 ft. 10 inches in length. Tenor C, Accumulator or Secondary Battery. It \\ incheB wide, and 1 inch deep. an article upon the is possible that The Doppel Flute is stopped (see subject will be given in the course of the bottom of the first column on page the next Volume. 249).
corners
a piece of tin 1J inches square, the being cut off, and a hole
punched
in centre for
it
to pass easily
is
shown
in Fig.
Now
VOL.
III.
(n.S.)
P P
slide
your
362
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
guard on wire, and next turn a ring being short, and the pulleys small in thehinge pieces, to set free the hammers. about \h inches diameter, when jour diameter. By making the band short Now unscrew the button from top of gauge is completed. Pig. 3 will tend at first you can regulate it a little in wire damper lift, in order to effect entire to illustrate how it is manipulated, A the gearing of the wheels. release, and be careful to
being meant to represent a sheet of
tin.'
Rehabilitation of Piano.
P.
Grazebrook
is
writes:
"The
can I
question
often asked,
How
on
my
?
lathe,
on the fly-wheel
I enclose a sketch of
a plan I have adopted to a 3J inch angular bar lathe, and which I find
is
a pinion on
forty
teeth,
!
wheel
shaft,
of
hammers will next occupy you, and as we are governed in you strip off each old covering, make as a great measure by the method upon little disturbance of the underlaid which the action is constructed. In cloth as possible, and notice for your some cases hammers are centred upon a future guidance that no glue was used wire passing through the entire series, at the nose of the hammer. Tbe felt and then repairs are a difficult matter tapers from end to end, hence its name, in others, hammers for an amateur are and a set is long enough to supply and I affixed by separate hinge pieces coverings for the hammers of a fullwill assume yours are hung that way, compassed instrument therefore take will be therefore the job a simple one, this felt, and lay it upon a board, and divide it by cross cuts with your knife
a pianoforte action,
;
H.
W. W.
Wimborne).
In repairing
preserve the sequence of all parts as you remove them. Tbe recovering oi
number of
is
which
will be a trifle
it
hammer which
strips
to cover.
These
oft so,
are
in
their
;
turn pared
but
how much
Your
felt
extreme bass hammer, glue the strip for about j inch at either end, and clap it on the denuded hammer; and if you have no springs, bind it firmly
with
tape, at
same
is
time
pulling
an important
no indecision or deadness about it. When you are assured that the glue is dry, trim each hammer with your knife, and as your knife loses its keen edge, whet it constantly upon emery cloth.
Sticker hinges are slips of leather cut
to proper width,
hammered
working into
of
fifty
lightly to a crease
tbe old
the
slot
is
filled
again by the
it.
tenth.
not
material, a patience.
requisite
skill,
and not a
procure
little
leather glued
of
into
is
absolutely
required;
but as I always
You
material,
may
felt
the
lever
leather
conducted
my
c
fly-wheel,
makes the
treadle to
work jn the
is
a wheel of 120 teeth, and on this wheel is a wooden pulley, just missing in size the
pitch line,
and brought forward just to miss the slow speed on the fly-wheel, is sold in small bundles a shoemaker's and to be in a line with the largest knife will also be indispensable and tbe pulley, on the mandrel, e is a plain above firms also supply springs, which casting with two slots, to regulate the are useful in the hammer covering wheels, and to slide them out of gear business but these latter can be done when not required it also acts as the without. Detach the levers first by holding-down plate for the headstock. inserting your knife in the glue joint I use a larger gut band than usual, as which attaches them to their rail, I find the band must be very tight, then draw the screws that pass through
;
[
and leather, from either Messrs. Hughes, Drury Lane, or from Messrs. Godard, Tottenham Court Road. A set of taper felt will cost from Is. 9d. to 3s. 6d. per set, and leather for your purpose
much tbe same lines as I have described for hammer covering but I think I
;
that, for
if
you
have become very easy to you. one other thing you must be careful about: do not use your glue
Just
too thin.
Castings.
have had some and iron, and at a very reasonable rate, from Mr. T. Taylor, Chester Street, Hulme, Manchester; also steel tools and taps.
excellent castings
in
"Otto Orno."
"I
brass
E."
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Pentagraph.
363
Zoetrope Pictures.
H. J. W. (Chicago). Your query Engraver." A simple form of the pentagraph, and appears to have miscarried in some one that would be useful for your unaccountable way, but I hasten to The last compurpose, is represented in the accom- repair the omission. You will see peted volume of this magazine was panying illustration.
Amateur Work,
Vol.
II.,
New
Series.
Mr.
James
Wright
writes:
"I
S.
H.
toy
Sheffield,
merchant."
that
it is
entitled
simply Amateur
Work,
IllusI
(New
Series).
am
M.
move
and forming a square framing, each side of which is the length of the short The pin of the joint A is fixed piece.
you approve of the Prize Scheme, and also thank Mr. Morton, of Maine, for the terms in which he expressed his opinion to you on the same matter.
underneath.
Front
edges
of
sides
Brandon.
Playwriting
;
is
the other).
wise, the
boards of carcase.
upon racks or
and
reversal
of
that
arrangement
Additional
also effected
especially
Shakespeare,
the
genteel
also,
produces
enlargement.
is
and
method
of adjustment
by rows of holes. A similar article to the one I have here described is to be bought at any novelty shop in London. Ton had better send to Mr. Passmore, 124, Chcapside, E.C., Is. and postage, and no doubt he will supply you. How, personally, I do not recommend the employment of an instrument of
this
power
a
you possess the and incident, you may evolve original work. There is
;
then
if
to invent plot
by tongues joined into grooves. the is book-case, which may conveniently be 4 feet high by 3 feet wide. It is described minus a plinth, as being more convenient for the purpose you require to put it to. For the screen there will be two uprights, each 1J inches wide by f inch thick, into which will be tenoned three rails, each 1 inch wide by f inch thick. Between two top rails a few spindles will be dowelled. Pediment glued and Bcrewed on also four bracket feet. A mitred framing of rails. 2 inches or 3 inches width, and
This
;
Latin
proverb
;
that
runs,
Poeta
it.
FIC.
I.
kind;
that
is,
if
you
desire
to
at failure.
Wax
" C.
attain
I
freedom in the use of the pencil. would rather urge that by close
in drawing,
E. L."
Have
Polish.
you followed
in
application
efficiency
manufacture of the wax polish ? you will be able to discover mechanical aid as pernicious, saving what is wanting after one or two trials. and except those which for describing All recipes require a certain knack in circles and for arriving at set curves compounding, and subsequently j n are admissible. By that means your using, that is only to be acquired by essays in engraving will partake rather experience.
all
to
of the
boldness of
professional
effort of
work
a tyro.
Amateur Work,
FIC
2.
FIC
3.
Old Series of subject but I will do my best to write this magazine was published at sixpence a few short chapters on making a few for each monthly part. With regard simple home-made articles, which is to the recipe you mention, it was copied all I claim to know about the subject. from a contemporary, and we gave it The people who supply all the materials
" A. P." (Quebec). The
J inch thickness, or less, within the opening, will afford ground for attaching
canvas, etc.
You caD,
as an alternative,
work wide uprights and cross rails down to obtain same result as with
separate mitred
are separate
of
for the benefit of our readers, judging they might find out minor details for
are B.
Burnett
and
Co.,
Theatrical
framing.
Top knobs
If ignorant
themselves.
London, W.C.
Henry
from uprights.
used
here,
L. Benwell.
any
terms
purchase
364
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
&
is
Co.'s Technical
"F. B. M."
covering which you will see in Fig. 4. In the latter Fig. thereleasing trigger
purely optional,
and should
use
it is
regulated according to
to
be put to
fire,
probably get this from Mr. H. Buxton, Royal Museum, Matlock Bath, draught, or Derbyshire, as he is a worker of it. E.
may
Fig.
3.
In Fig.
the
pillis
purely ornamental.
J.
S.
Upholstering. " Scots Fie." Papers on upholstering, dealing exhaustively with the sub-
closed up,
ncross.
and the
;
line carried
clear
ject,
correct
Hammers.
H.
J.
W.
(Chicago,
III.,
U.S.A.)
Rummaging over some "Dingey" wishes to know where he and drawings, bearing date of 1886 and 1887, I came across a could obtain the brass fittings for a Does any maker keep sketch from which I made my tinsmith's 13-feet boat. hammers when in England. The price them in stock ?
old pajjers
These errors are such as will but I thought I would call your attention to them, in case any attention was called to them by others. I try to make my drawings and photographs plain but I suppose
themselves
;
do not always."
Self-Actlng Fountain.
" Fountain."
description of
a
the
self-acting
fountain
appeared in
"Amateurs
Errata.
Organ Building," May part, the following corrections must be noticed Page 269. The lengths of Wald Flute
In
"
should read
Tenor C Middle
... ...
...
21
in.
lOJin.-
C2 C3
C
...
4J 2
in.
in.
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Can you or any recommend a good
that
will
shave
are devoid of
sold
Whiskers.
State price
and where
of similar
hammers,
if
manufacturer, amounts
each, which was,
An
Easily
"J.J.J. Wells."
and is, higher than I pay for a tool I can make author of the article, myself, and which is doubtless the case will reply to it at an early opportunity as to process will be gladly received. of many amateurs. I borrowed two but you must be patient, and remember Retep. hammers, and made the for your consolation that " all things tinsmith's " Retep" wishes to know how football enclosed one-fourth full size drawings come to him that waits." See Mr. cases (new) may be preserved till next of them. Next I made wooden patterns Morton's letter in this month's "AmaAre they to be "dubbed" or season. enlarged from draft, and had castings teurs in Council." left dry ; kept in dry or damp place ? made, filing same up myself. My two F. S. Morton writes: "I am this hammers are as good as I can buy, the day in receipt of the March No. of LETTERS RECEIVED UP TO MAY 13. cost being about half the price of a AiiATEUR Work, and wish to call your single hammer. I submit this with attention to a few errors which your Secumty T. Wilks O. Beckerthe hope that it may prove acceptable engraver made in the' cuts illustrating legoe; H. M. B. L. Gubbins; Rev. to others who may be in a similar " An Easily Made Camera." In Fig. 3 W. Wad&;._Dabb-ler-; F. W. Bedford position." he leaves out the hole in the front Allen Carswell.
specting above has been forwarded to the care
to
;
Can any amateur give me instructions making a smoke-house for smoking hams and bacon, or recommend a and he no doubt book which will help me ? Any hints
re-
for
PRESENTED WITH
TEUE WORK, ILLUSTRATED," PART
TnTXTT
JTJLT,
1891.
MU& BY
l|f OUNDBOARD.
RPvM iBItlE
*F-
*i
--L 3l'-l
J,r
**!*'/
J?
ol
a*
3f
3i,
X,.,;
365
HESE
which you can paint with the rest. room enough for it at the bottom, between the fillet and the back. Now slip the bottom or lower edge of wood or cardboard in then bend over to the curved fillet, and put a few sprigs in at back, and it will be
lincrusta,
You must
leave just
I have
I think that they
friends are
may
some
of
your readers. Beginning with the shelves, their construction is very simple. (So much has heen
already written on construction, that I will not
by the The spindles must, of course, be turned. The brackets and shelves must be screwed to the back, and after that you
top of the moulding
The
FIC-3.
FIG.
I. PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF HASGING SHELVES. FIG. 2. SIDE ELEVATION OF HANGING SHELVES. FIG. ENLARGED. FIG. 4. TERMINAL ENLARGED. FIG. 5. CORNER BRACKET. FIG. 6. METHOD OF JOINING. BENT FRONT WITH TERMINAL. FIG. 8. BACK TERMINAL. FIG. g. PLAN OF CORNER BRACKET.
fully).
running from top to bottom, and on one side, and carefully cut to shape taking the whole outline from fullsized working drawing. Cut out a cardboard templet for curves one half will do, as you can always reverse for each side then cut the brackets and sides. Fasten a narrow fillet, which, if cut nearly through with fine saw-cuts,
when
dry, plane
;
moulding you can buy. You will notice that a moulding is put under the bottom shelf. When complete, paint or enamel if the latter, which is less trouble, procure a tin of " ivory
piece of
;
you may
Part of the mouldings the lincrusta, fillet, edge of shelves or brackets, and spindles and pendants can be gilt, and gilt card or very If thin wood at back of perforated design. any gilding is required, let it be done when the Simply apply oil article is otherwise finished.
steam and bend the wood to the required curve) for the canopy, and the canopy can be made either of thin wood with the grain running across,
Vol. III.
gold size evenly to the parts required to be gilt, and when " tacky " apply the leaf with a tip, or direct from the book but unless you can lay the
;
(New
VOL.
III. (N.s.)
366
leaf
thing white.
In lieu of mouldings, I have often used "cable-laid" cord; it can be procured at any rope and sail makers, and of any thickness that may be required. It can be run round panels
or under ledges, using one, two, or three sizes
to build
II.
AMATEURS.
By GREGORIE
EDOUIN BEY.
Small Dynamos for Electric Lighting The Siemens Dynamo The Manchester DynamoDimensions and Prices of Dynamo Castings.
up a moulding.
it
or brush
up with
For use, immerse in, weak glue or size hang weight attached when dry, it is in
over with,
; ;
NEED
all
what a
dynamo
must have
of these
electric
machine
is,
for nearly
the readers of
good condition for use. Glue the angle in -which you intend to fix it, and keep the cord in position with wire nails until dry.
seen, at
You
imist mitre
energy.
This does
to
know how
accomplished
so I will briefly
two colours in enamelling, or the cording can be gilt. In curved work (to be painted), it is very useful. Its price is from a penny a yard upwards. You can cut the larger size in half (after glueing and stretching), and
use
it to decorate flat surfaces. It looks a deal better than the " compo " used for the purpose.
Dynamo.
bracket, description
is
is
no turned work. True up a piece of stuff cut from an inch pi Jink you will want about 1 8 inches. Mark with a square and with a very sharp chisel and mallet, making the cuts clean, and keeping the bevel of chisel upwards to an angle of 45". Do the pointed ends List, and be careful not to break or
spoil
There
them
The
of
curved
piece
can be cut
from a piece
The
fit
cutting
it
to
curve.
carried
out
with
machine receives its armature, which was invented by the late Dr. Siemens, and is named after the inventor, The the "Siemens H girder armature." machine itself, as made for the use of amateurs, has no other claim on the well-known firm of electrical engineers whose name it bears, and I suspect they would not deign to notice the many toy dynamos bearing the name of " Siemens." Its parts and their construction may be easily understood by referring to the sectional sketch The two upof the machine shown in Fig. 1. right pieces, b b, represent the sections of two malleable iron castings which form the cores of It will be seen that the the field magnets. lower parts of these castings are more massive than the upper parts, and are hollowed out to form a kind of tunnel open at the bottom and These parts form the poles of the field top. magnets, and the tunnel is the field in which The the armature of the machine revolves.
armature
is
how they work. This dynamo electric its name from the shape of
-
wound
consistence of putty.
For finishing, give three more coats of the undiluted enamel, leaving a day between each application. I have, in a former paper, given directions for washing
brushes when done with.
(See article on
one continuous
coil of
"An
glass
of
Producing
Stained
brought to one end, and connected to a paTt of the machine named the " commutator." The commutator " is a disc or pulley, made out of boxwood, and fitted with a brass ferrule slit into two equal parts by two oblique saw cuts. The
'
'
367
If
now we
its
con-
by a length
of fine
current
and
coils.
The
fine
may be
displaced
by
top,
and bolted firmly to the wooden base of the machine by the projecting lugs at the bottom. The bearings for the armature spindle (made in the form of brass brackets) are then fixed to the fields (spanning the entrance to the tunnel on each side), and a pair of insulating blocks are
fixed to
some
electrical
instrument, or by an electric
may be made
to do
When
to a
we
from the
by the
its
one of the bearings to receive the " brushes." These brushes are merely strips of
of the commutator as this revolves. Let us now note the action of the machine. We first send a strong current of electricity through its field magnet coils from a bichromate
work placed between we have work with a high resistance between the poles, we shall only have a small current of electricity from the machine, because only a small volume of current can pass to the field magnet coils, through the
resistance of the
;
poles
that
is to
say, if
high resistance of the work. On the other hand, a low resistance will allow a large volume of current to pass, and there will be a consequent
increased strength in the magnetism of the fields.
or a
Bunsen
battery.
the coils of wire, induces in the enclosed iron of the cores a small trace of permanent magnetism,
fields is
not
work
of
lighting incandescent
which
cores.
is
also shared
by the pole
a hollow,
pieces of the
As
these form
nearly
suris
rounding the armature, this part of the machine is enclosed in a magnetic field, the lines of magnetic force radiating to the centre. We now
revolve the armature, and this
The other method of strengthening the fields The ends of the field magnet coils as follows
:
are connected, as at
first,
movement
dis-
screws of the machine, and the ends of the armature coil to the commutator rings, as before.
We now connect
the machine
by means
and thus
this,
of this
As by doing
we
we
shall obtain
shunt the armature current through the field magnet coils, we call this method " connecting
the machine in shunt."
evidence of the electric current at the studs holding those brushes. The current thus
The machine
will
now
obtained will be very feeble, since it is only induced by the weak trace of magnetism in the
field
form minimum current independent of the work being done by it in the outer circuit, and will also furnish a full volume of current to the
current,
we
resort to either
We detach
it
and connect
to
work connected with it, whilst the resistance of that work is less than that of the shunt wire and coils.
In small machines of this type, the armature
is
the studs holding one of the brushes, whilst we also convey a wire from the opposite brush to the binding screw from which
of the field
made
we took
the end
is
magnet
coil.
The machine
now
but in the larger machines the armature is built of thin plates or punchings of iron threaded
368
on a
all
be understood that
its
This
of its
dynamo machines
and therefore can only be used to light up the number of lamps for which they are designed. Taking the list of a wellat a certain speed,
brought out by a firm of doing business near Manchester. The general form of these is shown in section at Fig. 2. This dynamo is a handy and
which
electrical engineers
known maker
I
find
of these small
dynamo machines,
given
:
It is easily con-
the
following
dimensions
to
Field
\ by inches solid armature, If inches long by \ inch diameter. The fields are wound with 12 ounces of No. 24 silk-covered
1
;
magnets, 4 by
and can be readily repaired when out of order, because all its working parts are easily accessible and are made in the most simple
style.
of
Its fields lend themselves to the adoption armatures constructed on the Siemens H,
copper wire
and this
coil
is
con-
Gramme
pattern.
The
Pacinotti, or
which is wound with \\ ounces of No. 24 silk-covered copper wire. This machine must be driven at a speed of
3,000 revolutions per minute, and will
of armature, has
now almost
super-
Gramme
ring,
and
used instead of the latter in makingup machines of the Gramme type with the Gramme field magnets. As the
Gramme machine
difficulties
presents
a
to
few
the
up one
c.
p.
lamp:
p.,
To light
F1G.I
in
construction
up the 10 lamps of 10 c.
mentioned,
quire
previously
amateur machinist, I
to
we should
of
re-
describe
here,
nor
its
machine
the
:
following
dimensions
dynamos attempting
by
inch, lami-
\\ inches, the
cores
of
field
magnet
14 lbs.
ManThose
wound with
machines.
to
attempt
This
structions in a well-written P G Si little volume on the I. SECTION OF SIEMENS DYNAMO. FIG. 2. SECTION OF MANCHESTER DYNAMO. A A, ARMA- Gramme machine, by Mr. B B, B B, TURES FIELD MAGNET CORES. Alfred Crofts, Dover, Kent,
;
machine, when driven at a speed of 1,800 revolutions per minute, will develop a current of
who
from 6 to 8 amperes at a pressure of 75 volts. The price of the rough castings for the first machine will be about 5s., and those for the large one will be about 35s. The laminated iron punchings for the latter machine may be purchased at the rate of 10s. per gross. Machines
of this type are fully described in a handy little volume on "The Dynamo: How Made and Used," by Mr. S. E. Bottone, Carshalton, Surrey, who also supplies amateurs with every requisite for making dynamo electric machines of all kinds.
The Paccinotti ring armature is built up of a number of laminated cogged rings strung on brass rods connected to brass spiders. The armature is wound with a number of coils corresponding with the number of cogs on the rings. This needs special care, and is a more
operation than that of winding a Siemens armature. The method of winding this class of armature is fully described and illustrated in Mr. Croft's book. It will be readily understood that this armature will
difficult
PRACTICAL ORGAN BUILDING.
require a special form of commutator having a separate section for each coil of wire.
369
Manchester machine
to
furnish enough
10-e.p.
AN ORGAN BUILDER.
see
up ten lamps of
Field
this
Part.)
2\ inches by &\ inches laminated armature 4| inches by 2 inches the fields wound with 10 lbs. No. 22 double cotton-covered copper wire, and the armature with 4 lbs, of No. 20 wire. This machine, when run at a speed of 2,000 revolutions per minute, will
cores,
;
;
magnet
have
the pipes
made,
and have
develop a current of 5 amperes at a pressure of 50 volts. As a guide to intending makers, I may say that the castings for such a machine
will cost about 30s., and the wire for the machine an equal sum. In winding the field magnet cores of the Siemens dynamo, we have to so arrange the coils as to form a north pole of one pole piece on one
The next thing is to construct a means whereby the wind, collected by the latter, may be distributed amongst the former. The soundboard constitutes this intermediate means, and contains some of the nicest work that anyone could wish for. It is the most important item
and the capabilities worker will be put to the crucial test. The greatest pains must be bestowed on it, and plenty of patience must be exercised. The material throughout should be of the best possible quality all pieces of wood should be free from curls and shakes, while a piece containing a knot should be laid on one side. The reason for the
of the
;
and a south pole piece on ensured by winding the two coils in opposite directions, and then connecting them together but, in winding the cores of the Manchester dynamo, the coils must be so wound as to form a north pole at the top, and a south pole at the bottom of the arch this is ensured by winding both of the coils in the same direction. It must be understood, however,
side of the armature,
This
is
wood is, the various details by the strength of the glue alone and should there be any curls in the timber, the heat of the place where the organ is erected must attack these places first, causing the wood to cast, and the joint to come apart. The consequence of this is no less than disastrous,
exclusion of strong
are held together
;
depend entirely on the direction of winding, but are governed by the direction of the current passing through the coils. Thus, if we have a machine of the Siemens pattern, with a north
pole to the
left, and a south pole to the right, whilst sending a current through the coils in one
it
has no right of
way, and cause a most fatal thing to the organ a running. The importance of these remarks
will
gresses.
by reversing the direction of the we shall also reverse the position of the poles. The relative position of the poles is ensured at first by the direction of the current
direction,
First of
caul,
make what
1
is
generally termed a
current
by jointing
long to
The
giving the
cores
;
true.
On one
side,
l inch
strong current
as
when
trying to
Plane the other side out of winding, and straight from end to end and across.
work
it
as a motor, or leaving
it
connected to a
plating solution.
In my next paper I hope to show how dynamos should be worked whilst employed in generating
current for electric lighting, and also
Cut out a piece of f-ineh mahogany, 5 feet 4 inches long, and 2 feet 2 inches wide, for the Should the width be unobtainable, joint table. two pieces of unequal width, 11 inches and 15 inches the joint will then come in a place of minor importance. Plane one side moderately
;
how
the
370
true,
on the caul (the two planed surand fasten it with \\ inch wrought brads. Arrange it so that the brads will pass through the table at the points y on the line x, squared across, and the same on the line
faces together),
z
as before rub it down well, and leave it. No handscrews can be used except for the two outside cheeks. Serve all in this manner, and leave them some time to dry. When the glue is quite hard and dry, fill in,
;
(Fig.
77)
that
is,
drawn
mahodown.
with pieces of inch stuff cut off a long strip 3| inches wide, each end of the channels formed
by the
in,
bars. The grain of filling-in pieces must run the same way as the mahogany, must fit tight, be well glued, and knocked in flush with
Rough
it
well,
marking
point.
must be
re;
Plane up two pieces of \\ inches stuff, 4J inches wide, 5 feet 4 inches long, and tooth one
side of
membered
left,
upside
down
must be marked
to the
soundboard,
screw,
Carefully
The way
fix it in the
bench-
we do is to set out the soundboard on a rod, mark the centre of each groove, letter them
according to the note that each belongs
to,
filling-in pieces to
come
and
is
Very
fine irons
number the
very useful
bars.
table,
the rod
and, in fact,
inch screw
2J inches long, to finish Z\ inches, for the bars plane them up to the thicknesses, as seen in Fig.
77,
inches long, 2 inches wide, and f inch thick, with a hole bored through the centre, and place them
of each.
Various thickif
and
necessary two
may be
maho-
under the head of each screw, so that when the cheek is to be glued on, and the screws driven home, no unsightly bruises are made. Take the cheek off, tooth the ends of the bars, size them well, and pass a hot flat-iron over, to make the
glue sink
give.
well,
in.
Do
dry,
may
it
formed by the meeting of the pine and the table. The edges now uppermost should be so arranged that the grain all planes one way, from front to back. Now comes a most particular piece of
When
make
and the surface already sized, and with all possible speed, send the screws in, with the
Serve the washers laying across the cheek. other side in the same way, and leave it overnight to dry.
work
Have
shop to do
it
of the table,
scum on it, and a nice warm in. At li inches from each edge knock a long marking point, or
The parts so far connected must now be separated from the caul, by driving wedges from one end till the brads draw themselves through
the mahogany.
Knock
mahogany, on the line representing the inside Glue the table of the left-hand end thick bar. for the distance to be covered by this and the Glue the space between it and the next bar. edge of the bar, make a good rubbed joint, and fasten it with three handscrews carefully draw the points, and fix them on the line representing
;
they come apart quite easily. Give the grooves a good coating of glue on the bottom and ends this, when dry, greatly adds to the strength of
the joints.
Fit in pieces of | inch pine between
each bar, 7 inches long, at 9 inches from the front, as shown in Fig. 78 a representation of
six grooves of the soundboard.
Draw one
its- place
371
wood
and about
inch thick ; bore the hole through the cheek into the bar plenty deep enough, and do not let
the pins
fit
work on
plane
down-
the
mahogany
quite true.
cheek from this surface, and mark when it is planed the two sides
whole length of the soundboard. The edge must come square with the front cheek b, Fig. 79. Cut a piece of 1 inch mahogany like Fig. 80, of which a is a section, and let one end of it into the cheek, and the other end into the edge of the bottom board, exactly in the middle. The length from shoulder to shoulder will be the same as the width of the
for the
front
be quite parallel. Set a gauge to the narrowest bar, and plane them all down to the gauge mark on each long piece. Take the cheek down a trifle out of square, and then plane
the bars from front to back.
are to be used,
bits off the edges of the bars
fit
tight, as
The wind
stuff, 5
No
;
coarse irons
little
on
trifle
the finishing
shaving must be
the present.
The wind chest must now be formed. Glue up pieces of stuff sufficient to finish a bar c\ inches wide, 2\ inches thick, and 5 feet 1| inches
long
;
beyond the end bar of the soundboard. "Where the pieces meet over the mahogany, they should be quite square to make a good joint. In this
way we make
r,
Fig. 78.
By
long
pieces.
in,
will hold
in
its
place, so
two parts, the necessity of unscrewing the whole length is dispensed with, should the pallets be defective. Fix the whole carefully in the bench screw,
that s inch of the outside bars will remain, unpiece of this sort forms not only covered.
and with a
all
fine iron in
off
the back of the wind chest, but a substantial backbone for the grooves above. All the weight
Mark each
its
above will be supported by this wind bar (d, Figs. 78 and 79). For the ends, two pieces of li inch stuff SJ
of the pipes
separate item so as to going on again in the same position, disconnect the wind chest, and turn the remainder on
the bench, bars downwards, with two strips between the bars and the bench, to prevent the former from being bruised.
on the ends
of
Out of f inch mahogany cut strips represented by the lines drawn along the soundboard
in Fig.
latter
end cheeks of the soundboard, so that the outsides of each piece are flush with one another, as
77,
for the
sliders
They
are
only put on dry for the present, and each end should project iV inch beyond the long cheeks,
Plane one side of each 6 inches longer. form a good joint with the table, and arrange them in such a manner that when they are in
former
to
both front and back, to allow for cleaning off. Cut a hole in the cheek that is fixed on the end of the soundboard, where the least number of
large grooves are, 8 inches long, 2 inches wide,
them will plane the Bedding the sliders is a most parthe greatest care ticular piece of workmanship being required to make them lay quite close to
position the grain of all of
same way.
cheek on each edge at 2 J The air from the bellows will enter the wind chest through this aperture. The bottom board (e, Figs. 78 and 79) is 14
inches from the front. inches wide,
long.
1
the table.
to
When
inch
It is screwed to the
1
and feet 3 inches end cheeks and along inch resting on the wind bar
stuff,
-5
and gauged to a somewhat uniform thickness, they are fastened to the table with wooden pegs, and planed over The to make a strictly true and smooth surface. pegs must only be placed over the thick bars. Those that hold the bearers are put near the edge.
their
respective widths,
372
inch
mahogany
for
top side of the upper boards at the bass end, and the others at the treble end, and the two last on
Fig. 78), and two of f inch pine for the rack boards (l, Fig. 78), 1 inch
shorter than the table,
1 1
wide respectively, and one piece of each wood 1 inch longer than the table, 7 inches wide. Fix the pieces together in pairs with wood pegs, and place them, thus connected, over the sliders
lay the rack board on once more, and mark the centres of the big pipes that are to be grooved off. Take off the rack board and the - inch veneers, and mark on the upper the front one
;
boards as
many
With a \
and bearers, with \ inch less than the table at each end for the back boards, and a similar distance projecting for those of the front.
intervening
wood
for
Bore
two holes on the outside edge of each pair for a piece of wire, shaped like the letter L, to pass tightly through the rack board, upper board, bearer, and into the cheek. The steady pins prevent the pieces from slipping, and determine the exact place of the upper boards after they have been taken off. These boards are represented by the thick lines in Fig. 82.
of the
simply be
square over the grooves on the rack boards, mark the sliders and the centre of the
Now
upper board into the slider the centres of the remaining notes, and take the former off bore holes through the marks on the sliders and Those for the table with very sharp bits. salcional and gemshorn will be f inch diameter inch at the top note, and the at tenor C, and open diapason and stopped diapason will be
;
"Where the centre line of each bearer crosses the bar line, bore a \ inch centrebit hole through the rack boards take them
thick bars.
;
| inch at tenor C, and \ inch for the top note. All the holes must be cleaned by passing a redhot iron through, to take off
the bits.
all
and with a pin-bit bore a hole through the upper board, bearer and table, for screws to hold them down, using as a centre the mark of the
off,
for the
places,
The next operation is to make the grooves low notes. Lay the veneers on in their
centre-bit.
bite in the
and be moderately loose in the upper board. Next replace the rack boards. Make a pattern of each pipe to be used, and lay them down over the sliders belonging to the plant them in such a manner various stops
bars,
;
and prick the centres, already made, on The long holes, lately upper boards. alluded to, are connected on the top side by boring, with an inch centre-bit, a number of holes f of the way through the upper board six at each end of the back board will be done
the
that as
many
as
possible
may
stand directly
over the groove for the note represented by the pattern. Fig. 82 is a drawing of the rack boards
It will be
manner, as one bass is to serve for two When the groove is cut clean, no matter which slider is drawn, the note over the groove The grooves must now be extended will sound. Bore to the centre, marked through the veneer. holes through the upper boards for the rest of
in this
stops.
the notes
same as the
inch
The
at tenor C,
and \
stopped
upper board. Bore the middle of each pattern, and with a bradawl prick the centre of each pipe that stands over its own wind, on the rack board mark the patterns round, and letter them. Now prepare pieces of inch mahogany, shaped like Fig. 83, a, b, c, d, e, f the two former are pegged to the
in the top side of the
; ;
deep,
made
wood when
they are pressed down they wedge themselves and prevent any air escaping round them. The holes in the veneers will be bored according
to the
will require
373
A inch
must be enlarged on the top side with a countersink and it would be well if a round burning iron were made like Fig. 85. This would be heated red, and the point of it put into every hole, leaving
for all the metal pipes
;
The holes
tied round to keep them straight, and to preserve them from the air. The top is left for the present, and we proceed with the wind chest. Turn the bearers on
the
bars.
bench,
scratches,
with strips between to prevent and take the last fine shavings off the
a.
way round.
Carefully count the boles in the sliders, to see that not one has been omitted (there should be
fifty-eight to each slider)
is true.
Carefully test the surface, to see that it Smooth the bars with glasspaper, and
On
of that,
and having made sure take up the sliders and bearers, and try
;
strictly true
and smooth.
burning irons often tends to cast the wood. Now make a groove with a V tool between every hole. Should there be any wind running about under the sliders, it falls into this channel, whereas if the groove were absent, the wind would run to the next note, or anywhere it liked, and the effect, whilst playing, would be far from agreeis
;
end cheeks, cut a slot as shown in Figs. 78, 79, p glue them, and screw them down. The wind bar will have a strip of leather 1 \ inches wide put the whole length of the soundboard, so that inch will ba glued to it, and the remainder on
;
to the bars
and
filling-in.
piece of leather
will also
filling-in
be glued the whole length over the On no and bars, \\ inches wide.
and
able.
Fig. 86 represents a portion of the table with the scoring between the holes. The entire
surface will be covered with the grooves continued in a similar manner to those in Fig. 86. "With a rubber and a piece of fine glasspaper, smooth over the surface, and rub in some French
-chalk.
beyond 2f inches inside the wind bar. the Prepare some stuff for the pallets straightest, best, and driest piece of inch pine If the heart of the must be used for these. board is curly, cut it out and joint up the two edges. The pallets will be 8 inches long and shaped like x, Fig. 79. Sufficient pieces should be glued together edgeways, to measure the any number of distance between the cheeks
; ;
Lay
pieces
may be used
them
to see if they
have
cast
Bound
if
more handy
work up.
it
First
bearers with a small hollow, and peg them in If the sliders have been planed a second time, the whole must be levelled, as
wide,
right
A few inch brads will be put in the bearers after all planing has been
before described.
f inch thick, and bevel the end up the back from 2 inches down to \ inch, which is rounded off to nothing. On the short
length, plane
to
mark two
lines across
with a
done.
Take the sliders up, shoot the edges, and round them until they will work easily between
the bearers.
gauge, one \\ inches and the other 2\ inches from the front square end. Cover the bevel
long
slot is cut in
each end, as
size,
to
be
let
inch round wood pin will into the table over the thick cheeks, and a
sufficiently
slot cut
to
The stuff will not be used for some time. With a sharp chisel, cut the front filling-in on the slant, as seen in c, Fig. 79. Be careful that
is cut; the cheek must not be At If inch from the end of the bars, mark with a pencil a line from end to end of On each edge of the bars that the soundboard. are thick enough, gauge /5 inch from each side
move
inch.
Be
may come
over a wind
hole, which would not be altogether desirable. Square holes (f inch) are cut in one end, the ends are rounded, and when well dressed with
chalk, they are practically finished. They ought to be removed from their places, wrapped up in
No
description is
A piece
of a
brad
will
374
section.
ME TAL-TURNING.
This gauge
is
*?B
attempt
little
is
inch, so that in
marking the bars, just prick (not scratch) the distance on the poncil line. The thin bars will have their centres marked. Cut some pieces of tinned wire 2 inches long, No. 18 gauge, point one end, bore the bar with a very fine bradawl at the point made, and knock
one piece into each side of the bar, to go inch in. These pins are to act as guides for the pallets, and are shown in Fig. 79 (v).
and work
of
made to turn thin and slender work, awkward shapes, and work where
removal by turning has been given, and where very considerable acallowance for
required.
curacy
is
Now
down
so as to
be
parallel,
There are so many kinds of face chucks, both English and American, employed, that the bare enumeration of them and their uses would occupy several articles. I must, therefore, assume that they are tolerably well known, and their uses understood, and confine my remarks in this, and in the succeeding article, to some few typical
cases of face chuck turning.
number them.
The
centre
must be gauged on the short side. This may be done by altering a marking gauge for every separate pallet, or a parallel gauge may be made like Fig. 88. It is easily made, and will save a good deal of trouble. It consists
of five strips of
is
by
;
use
is
more
valuable than the self-centreing type, or the There are few pieces of slotted face-plate. work, regular or irregular, that cannot be
mahogany
and
round-headed screw, on to one of the other pieces. A small brad is knocked in exactly in the centre of the middle piece, and pointed. To mark the centre, hold the gauge in the hand with the three rails downwards, lay the piece to be marked on the top between the two pieces on the tooth, and draw the pallet down. If the gauge is properly made, the mark will be right in the middle of the pallet. Fig. 89 is the gauge set ready to take a piece 1| inches
wide.
the
the face-plate types have a more limited use. Taking a cylinder cover, like Fig. 10, with a stuffing-box on one face the jaws of the chuck would be first set approximately central, clipping the edges, a, of the cover, and the lathe being
ran round by hand, a bit of chalk held against the edge of the cover would indicate its full the dogs in the side opposite eccentric portion
;
would then be slackened, and those on the full side tightened, and the lathe ran round
thereto
again.
Two
The screws
are left a
trifle loose,
so that
gauge
may be compressed
or
expanded
the edges of the cover have to be turned, onehalf the thickness, a, must be turned at this
as desired.
METAL-TURNING.
By
IV.
A FOREMAN PATTERN-MAKER.
-Jaw Chuck Turning Cylinder Cover- -Turning Spring Piston Rings Dog Chuck.
J
Ik.
OEK whose
length, or thickness,
its
is in-
chucking therefore, the dogs must only embrace barely one-half the thickness, a. The half that is clear of dogs will now be turned, and also the outward face, b, as far as the stuffing-box will allow, the stuffing-box will be drilled, and the work be removed from the chuck. If the jaws of the chuck are sufficiently deep to permit of the turned portion of the edge being now clipped,
first
;
|JH
considerable relatively to
diameter,
still
is usually supported and turned on Jjjgl face chucks, without any assistance from the
may be done
in the
same
c,
way
as the
;
first
it
be
poppet centre. It is comparatively easy to turn a stout chunk of metal of regular figure upon any kind of face
turned
but
Many
these, as well as
chuck
but
the
difficulties
arise
when
the
in others,
the turner,
METAL-TURNING.
amateur, finds chucking pieces of wood extremely
serviceable.
375
be
and the turning and with risk of the work being thrown out of
accomplished
accurately,
For turning the spring rings of engine have for many years cast on chucking lugs (a a a, Fig. 11). These lugs are pinched upon a slotted face-plate, so that no pressure whatever is put upon the circumference tending to spring the ring and instead of casting each
cylinders, I
;
make
off,
a cylinder 10
this is turned
and
the lathe.
then cut
with a parting
fic. u
-*-
h{ A
"j
Sk
g'
B
7"
BACH
FIG.
IZ.
FACE
There
is
much
than by wooden chucks. If we take, for example, the spring rings for the pistons of model engines, these will often average not more than
rV inch in thickness
and the amount of pressure upon the dogs to hold the rings securely during turning, is bound to distort them from a truly circular form. These may be taken
;
necessarily put
from six to twelve separate rings, according Amateurs should also adopt this plan if three or four rings only are wanted. There are, perhaps, many amateurs who cannot afford the expense of a jaw chuck, and for these the wooden chucks are of especial value but all work cannot be thus held, and in the absence of a jaw chuck, the common slotted face-plate, with its appliances of bolts and dogs, must be used.
tool,
to size.
as typical of
better in
means.
equal
all
much slight work that can be held wooden chucks than by any other The pressure of the bored wood is round the ring, instead of at narrow
sections only, as with the dogs, and the friction of the wood holds the work more securely than
There is nothing so difficult in the construction dog chuck that an amateur latheman of average skill cannot tackle. As these cost from 3 to 6 each for lathes of from 3tV inches to 5 inches centres, they are just that kind of job that it pays the amateur to make for himself I
of a
;
376
working drawings (Fig 12) of a chuck 6 inches in diameter. As the drawings are made to scale, measurements may be
taken from them and worked upon accordingly. I need not describe it in full, but will simply refer to the separate parts comprising it. In this figure, a is the' flanged plate itself, cast with slots, b, which are filed or machined
true.
HOUSEHOLD
By ED.
C.
UTILITY.
ROE,
The
plate
is
faced,
screwed to fit the mandrel nose, c are the dogs, of forged iron or steel, fitted with sliding blocks,
square threaded steel adjusting screws, e. These screws are prevented from moving endwise by the pins f, driven alongside the grooves, g, near the ends of the screws. The dogs are tightened with the nuts, h, bearing against the washers, J. The dogs are reversible by running the screws, e, out, and
turning the dogs end for end they will thus bear against the inside, as well as against the
;
Soap Box or Tray Stand for a Vase or Water Jug Small Plush Bracket.
d, to the slots, b,
and tapped
to receive the
ANY
much
as a short
put into shape and that would eventually prove of use. Have any of my fellow workers ever
experienced such a desire?
alone, and, therefore,
Surely
am
not
may be
right in thinking
my
deliberations as to the
outside, of work.
The
lines,
k,
are scribed
deeply on the face of the plate, as approximate guides to the setting of the jaws, g.
In making such a plate as this, the following brief hints will be of service The plate itself,
:
a, is of cast-iron, turned
;
on
back edge, and boss the jaws are forged, o and d, and the screw being properly in one piece, d, is filed or planed to fit the grooves b, and the
screw turned.
position,
me
my
named
The dogs (o) are turned in and their edges made parallel, by filing
that
not
the other,
may meet my
critics'
views.
first
or planing, with those of d. Shallow grooves are cut in the jaws, to assist in holding work.
Let us
noted
it
down
upon
The jaws are case-hardened before use, by making them red-hot and rubbing them over
with yellow prussiate of potash and bone dust, and quenching in water. The nuts, h, should be hardened, and also the head of the screws,
e.
to treat
this subject
must ever be before an intelligent reader's mind in connection with soap, by reason of the
assurances of the indefatigable vendor of that
useful article
us believe that
The
soap
is
does not matter whether they are right or left-handed, but they are usually left.
shown.
many
times
that,
owing
to
Staining in Imitation of Eosewood. Stain first with a solution of logwood made by dissolving 1 ounce extract of logwood in 1 quart of hot water, then put in the figure with black stain of a solution of copperas and galls mixed with a little thin polish. Carpenter and Builder.
venience of a soap-box, the tablet has been deposited carefully by the maid-of-all-work
upon the window or some other ledge, to the detriment and ultimate destruction of the paint
thereon.
The requirements
377
378
or arrangement,
but I have endeavoured to improve upon the average twopenny box in a way that will be clearly seen by the accompanying cuts. The rack, formed of wire, is intended for the small brush or flannel the latter, more often than not, to be found hanging round
;
mitreing
is
as
the tap.
The wire
for the
may be
The holes
increased
be noticed that it does not run through. As to the way in which the frame may be drawn together when under glue, I do not think it necessary to recapitulate here instructions which have been given so repeatedly. The frame together, the tile in place, and the
4
;
shown by Fig.
will
3,
neatly secured
through.
therefore
me
to
quote the dimensions, further than the thickness of the whole of the stuff need not exceed \ inch. The arrangement for draining the water from the soap-container may need a little ex-
with a couple of brass screws each side, countersunk in properly level, and all the slots turned the same way, we may consider the most desirable form of feet or supports. If a turned foot
is
work
;
on, or
but
should something a
The idea is that a movable tray be made of stout perforated zinc, fastened to two end pieces, as indicated by dotted lines on Fig. 1, in each of which two slots are cut, in
planation.
and Fig.
3,
may
rest
;
on four brass
these are also
on Fig. 1. Two slotted holes are provided for hanging up, and easy removal, like the one shown on Fig. 2. The whole should be screwed together with brass flatheaded screws, and the wood used should be,
The foot is formed by two pieces of moulding cut to a true mitre, and glued together as shown by Fig. 7, whereby it will be seen that the foot is finished by the sides being cut parallel to the mitre. These feet will be found to look very well and to those persons who are
former plan.
;
or as the original is used, for standing a water jug on. The first thought to make this stand was induced by the possession of an old Dutch
tile
an alternative method dispensing with that will, doubtless, be doubly welcome. Screws should be used to fix the feet to frame, should the latter method be adopted if turned feet are used, of course pins and glue will be sufficient. I have abstained from mentioning any partilathe,
machine's services
this was made to serve round which a frame was placed. Of course, any variety of tile may be used, but it certainly is preferable that one be chosen with a smooth surface, and not of the variety termed majolica, which have a surface upon which the design is in relief. The moulding from which the frame is made is shown in section at a, Fig. 3.
peculiar in character
cular variety of
wood
as the basis
manner
is
admissible
in fact, the
odd pieces
brought into use for such small matters. Of course, due consideration must be given to
the relative colours of the the
tile
;
wood and
those
the same
may be
item
said should a
tile.
upon wood
The only really difficult portion of this job is the working of the mouldings but I must of necessity, by the narrow limits afforded by this
;
The
third,
and
last,
is
a small bracket to
of describing the
methods by which the best results are obtainable but, I hope, at an early date, to produce a
;
which
may be
of
adapted.
The
memory
which caused
me
to
;;
379
them
in this paper,
were simply made of a portion of a cigar-box and a few screws; and really such material is
very satisfactory for a job such as
sketches
will
;
HOW
TO
MAKE
this.
The
is
explain
nearly
all
that
necessary
may be
touched
the
it
is
it
concerning
j^sasg
HE
Is
not a sorrowful
by means
grinning forth over the top of the shelf about an inch, or by a couple of beautifully bright
tin-tacks, which, to
instruments the gold leaf and pith ball electroscopes will be described in the following article.
;
For
the
gold
leaf
electroscope,
procure a
;
say the
least,
do not add to
little
it
Now, with a
care
and
should be 3 inches or more in diameter, and 6 or 7 inches in height, the bottom must be cut
off,
may be made
which
eye. shall
so as to afford a
method
of fixing
filing a
notch round
be as secure as
it is
invisible to the
In the present case I would suggest the screwing on at the back of back piece of bracket a small plate, as rough as may be. Yes, even a
piece of condensed-milk
tin, or
Before screwing
on, however,
we must
cut a slot, as
shown by
;
Fig.
9,
this will
is
camphor and methylated spirit, made into a paste, and laid on the glass, will make the file bite better after it is cut off, smooth the edges a little on a grindstone. Then prepare a base of dry wood, as shown in Fig. 2, about f inch thick, turned to it must be soaked in melted paraffin fit the jar wax, and when dry covered with tinfoil, which can be glued on also glue two strips of tinfoil,
the jar with a triangular
file.
; ;
A little
about \ inch wide, on each side of the inside of the jar, allowing about \ inch to project at the
lower end; then glue the bottom to the jar, glueing the ends of the strips of tinfoil outside,
good hook may easily be made by merely bending a wire nail, first removing the head, after
the style shown by Fig. 10.
is clear.
I think
my meaning
The hole
in
the
course, be covered
and glue a strip of tinfoil round the outside, which will fasten the bottom more firmly. A cap of wood must be turned for the top of the jar, as shown in Fig. 3 this must also be
;
assistance, further
than to advise
care, a
made
a hole should be bored in the centre for a h inch rod of brass, and a \ inch hole near the side, which is fitted
;
above all, be assiduous in keeping the glue from the face of the plush, and the fingers clean. The sketches are
size.
damp
air to escape
1
\ inches
full
The bracket
is
covered completely
it is
with plush.
By
the way,
method
shelf.
to
first,
on the top. Drill a small hole in the brass rod, about 2 inches from the top, and put a small wire pin through, to prevent the rod dropping down into the jar fix to the lower end of rod two pieces of thin brass, \ inch wide,
;
And
by a small screw.
the screw
is
of brass
reached.
truly,
a chapter of oddments,
should be bent so as to
tightened.
closely together
when
which, however, I hope will prove as entertaining and useful as though the chapter dealt
Then
gold leaf
sheet
;
article.
380
care must be used not to allow any air to blow on the gold, or it will crumple up. Lay one piece
of
stand about 3 inches in diameter, and in the centre of this fix a brass pin
;
inch
inch
i\
in diameter,
and upon
inches long
the gold leaf gently out for \ inch, and lay one piece of the thin brass under this then lay the
;
dropping
down,
is
fixed, a
thicker piece
is
screwed or
down upon
the
first,
;
and
draw out the gold upon the first piece lay the other piece of brass on, and screw up tight, being
brass rod, ^ inch in diameter, is fixed with a hook at one end, and a small brass ball at the other.
or soldered to keep
it
the rod.
Now
lift
off, and put the cap on the jar, with the gold leaves opposite the strips of tinThe cap may be fixed by glueing a strip foil.
paper to drop
may
by
away
Cut
;
The
of silk ribbon
round
is
it,
made from
with sealing
wax
varnish.
When
all is dry, if
a piece about
an
electrified
body
brought near, or
set
upon
when throughly
the
the brass plate, the gold leaves will diverge. In using the instrument in damp weather, the
out,
make
a knife, and then rubbed up with glasspaper a loop in strong sewing silk, and pass the
other end through the ball with a needle, and
warmed
at the fire.
This instrument
make
a knot.
ball,
If an electrified
it
body
first,
is
near the
is
attracted
and
is
shown
in Fig. 4.
381
to admit the
head
of the bolt
Alternative
Revolving Apparatus.
gS
will
be seen by the section shown at o (Fig. 4), the rims and centres are " spokes," the raised above the
Of
This point being settled, the upper plate is to be screwed to the false bottom, the nut passed through and screwed up, and then, if found to work smoothly, the false bottom is to be screwed to the bottom of the cabinet. Only one thing remains to be done, namely, to fix a narrow " skirting board " around the
immaterial, the
important point being that the rims and centres revolve in contact they will, therefore, need to
;
be ground together, and will work all the smoother for being kept lubricated. There must be a hole through the centre of each, to take a
f-inch bolt, and holes countersunk, for screws to fasten them to the stand and cabinet respectively.
bottom of the cabinet. Procure 8 feet of |-inch wood the width had better be ascertained by actual measurement, the object being to conceal the revolving apparatus. The strip should be wide enough to come close up to the bottom of the bars, and just clear the feet of the stand. If the dimensions given have been closely followed, 2f inches or 2|- inches will be found
;
Now
b,
on
to the stand,
with the
plate, a,
correct.
into 2
The
and
will
might be screwed
cabinet
;
direct
but it will have a second and false bottom of 1 inch wood, which need not be much larger than the revolving plate (say 1 foot square), and screw the plate to that. The advantage is that the apparatus can be tested and made to work smoothly before fixing finally, and can at any time be removed without interfering with the
cabinet.
to the
The cabinet
The false bottom is, of course, screwed bottom of the cabinet, when all has been
complete, and as shown in Fig. 8. But suppose the amateur cannot readily procure the revolving plates, or that for some reason he would prefer, if possible, to do all the work himself what then? Then he had better do what (to judge from some queries which occasionally appear in Amateur Work) some amateurs seem to think altogether superfluous, namely, set his wits to work to find some way out of the difficulty. One thing is certain if
now be
work smoothly. A f-inch bolt, some 5| inches long, forms the pivot upon which the whole turns. Should the bottom of the cabinet come into contact with the head of the bolt, and prevent the false bottom
to
made
not
exercise
his
much
in the
mechanical line
of ingenuity
culties,
so that, unless
he has a large
diffi-
in presence of unexpected
retire
from being screwed home, a 1 inch hole can be made in the bottom of the cabinet. It is hardly necessary to point out that the plate must be exactly central. The nut is screwed up beneath the stand, and so can be readily got at at any time. A washer will be needed under the head of the bolt, and above the nut, to prevent them from eating their way into the wood. Should,
screw-holes (as
4, b),
he had better
action.
to prove
am
a solution of the
may answer
;
however, the under plate have a second row of marked with dotted lines in Fig.
the central part of the stand
pletely cut
brass tube, about 4 inches long, the stouter the better let one be of, say, f inch external
may be comaway, and each foot be screwed separately to the revolving plate. Again, the hole in the false bottom may be cut large enough
diameter, and the other of a size to slide over the first fairly stiffly ; also two flanges to carry
the tubes, and into which they must bo screwed
as tightly as possible.
Make
II
382
tube, which
The
be slightly
and
in
its
pass
it
over
somewhat more than that of the tube in that case, the best plan will be to bore this larger hole first, and then continue
necessarily
;
it
we may
call
it
with a smaller
bit.
Personally, I find
it
always
It will
add
to the strength of
if it
on
the pivot-tube
filled
be
it
with a piece of
to
fit
wood turned
as I
as tightly as possible,
frequently
find
the
this
apparent
tive.
sizes decep-
"Whether
this part
be as strong
as possible.
buy (the latter is a good way when you happen to think of it)
or
ward
through
the
therefore
reversed,
necessarily
i.e.,
face
which latter, indeed, do nicely they may be of metal or any sufficiently hard
will
;
substance,
course,
and,
of
may be
See to
turned
that
ed (Fig.
to
6),
and make
its
a hole in
exactly
centre
take
the
that
smaller tube.
side of
On
as
/U
F
FIG. ^. SIZE,
I
_r
C
7.
S Next
riers
just
carrying
of the
TO REPLACE LOWER REVOLVING PLATES, FULL FOUR NEEDED. FIG. 6. bottom board to replace TOP REVOLVING PLATE SCALE, FIG. 7. E, I IN. TO FOOT. 7 SECTION OF REVOLVING APPARATUS A, PIVOT TUBE B, FLANGE OF DITTO OF SOCKET C, PLATE D, FLANGE TUBE E, BLOCK TO RAISE SOCKET F, SOCKET TUBE.
;
WHEELS
i
1
wood
case of the socket tube, the tube must pass downward, the flange lying face downward in
though a little more would not be amiss; their width must be a trifle less than the diameter of the wheels, and the holes to take the pi ns of the wheels must be drilled just above the central line of
; ;
then screw
it
the
down, and we have (what we shall henceforth call) our pivot-tube. Get a piece of brass, 2
carriers. This will ensure the wheels appearing above their tops, and clearing the bottom when they come to be fixed. By the
383
the
off,
(i.e.,
much
as possible.
To
up
keep the
means
constant
of a thin
blocks of wood, a
wood
7).
must be inserted at each end, and held in place by nails driven through oue or more holes drilled These wheels, with to admit them (see Fig. 5). their carriers, must now be embedded in the feet of the stand, as shown in Fig. 3 (b). It is important that they should all be exactly level, fixed truly at right angles to the sides of the feet, and at exactly the same the distance from
centre of the stand.
keep
in
contact.
(See Fig.
Whatever happens,
are fulfilled,
i.e.,
let
smoothly, but
then.
It will
The
holes
made
to
not
till
so that the
tom board
in
by the
The
not
car-
wheels be protected
need
be
fit
rapid wear
this
may
provided
they
inches
cut in
and
segments to describe
is
Attention
in
especi-
the
requisite
circle.
This
may be
dis-
order that
the
cabinet
should
it
revolve smoothly,
is
absolutely essential
it
that
all
rest evenly
on
SCALE,
IN.
and also that the " friction plate " revolve in contact with the flange of the socket
tube. fixed
by the wheels, and, what is worse, will probably be worn unrequire renewal at no
latter
was not
appear,
place
before will
now
as will also the advantage of a separate bottom board. Place the latter on the stand, by
it
will
There is another plan which might also sucand Las the merit of being somewhat simpler though I have not seen it in operation, I mention it for the benefit of any who might be disposed to try it. Prepare a screw platform
ceed,
;
be found,
let
as large as convenient,
across
;
say
foot
10 inches
but
it
may be square,
or round, or octagonal.
owing
stand,
to
it is
the
wheels
projecting
above the
If so,
Perhaps the latter will be easier than the cirand look better than the square. It should be made of 1 inch wood more, rather than less. Screw this platform solidly down to the stand.
cular,
;
AMATEUR CONJURING.
;
384
Then mount the cabinet on caBtors, just as though it was to stand on the floor let the castors he as far as possible apart, remembering that they must revolve within the limits of the
platform just mentioned
inches apart.
distant
observing that " all the mesmerism escapes by being in contact with the wooden table," and that what it wants is to be hung by a
piece
of
string
so
that
it
touches
nothing.
let
us say
foot 7
Then he
at stage,
Of course they must be equifrom the centre. Fix the bottom board as before, and pass the pivot into the socket tube. Block up the flange of the socket until it is in contact with the friction plate, and the
thing
plates.
is
up two pieces of cord with hooks the end, and hooking one to each side of the
picks
(see Fig. 29), so that
done,
we
hope, as successfully,
if
not
he hooks the other end of each to the it is suspended in the middle of the stage. After a few "passes" he touches the drum lightly with his wand, and the drum gives forth the " Dutch roll," etc., in
drum
For this plan to succeed, however, the castors must be of (what I think is called) the
" direct bearing " type
swivel pattern
;
those of the
common
may
that cannot be explained here. As the distance between the stand and the bottom of the cabinet will vary according to the plan of mounting
selected, the length of the pivot
(which should be as long as possible), as alsa the width of the "skirting board," may have
to be varied accordingly.
of the modifications
In another paper, as already mentioned, some and adaptations of which the revolving cabinet is capable, will be described.
grand style. Then the drum can also be made answer questions; two taps for "yes," and one for " no," etc. A great deal of fun can be be got out of it if some laughable questions are asked by the professor. So much for the performance of the trick. Now for the working of it. No doubt anyone of an electrical turn of mind, who looks at the drawing (Fig. 28), will see at a glance the mode of working; in "point of fact" it is nothing but an electric bell without the gong, and with larger bobbins. The drawing is f full size, but I will give the measurements of a few of the principal parts, so that there can be no mistake. The bobbins are of boxwood 2 inches long, and the bobbin
to
1 inch in diameter. The iron cores marked I, in Fig. 28, are inches, shouldered down to J inch where they pass through the yoke, g. The wire on bobbins is double silkcovered (22 B.W.G.) wire. I always put a
heads are
piece
each layer of
wire.
may
if
IN
ra
this
endeavour to show
to
any
difficulty in
"
my
pupils "
how
and
make
let
the very
KS<^s8
mysterious
highly
amusing
"magic drum."
First of
me
happy to assist him to the best of my The Editor has my address, and will ability. forward any letters to me if a stamp is enclosed
I shall be
(for this
hands a drum. He then walks among his audience, showing the drum while he relates some extravagant tale concerning it he then
;
Fig. 30 is a sketch of the armature spring; o is a platinum speck to correspond with the platinum tip in the contact breaker. The drum must have one end (or both would be better still) loose, so that you can fix the works in. Now get two pieces of
to cover postage.
little
returns to the stage, and, getting a pair of sticks, gives it a tap or two. Suddenly he
Fig. 29).
After the
and wonders if he can " mesmerise it" so he places it upon his table, and endeavours to do so. He accounts for the failure by
ceases,
;
AMATEUR CONJURING.
385
FIG.
B,
28. COILS READY FOK FIXING IN DKUMS A A, COILS ADJUSTING SCREW C C C, CONNECTION D, ATTACHMENT OF SPRING E, SPRING F, LEVER G, FRAME. DRUM SUSPENDED B, WIRE TO BATTERIES FIG. 29. ARMATURE SPRING A, FIG. 30. P, WIRE TO PUSH. ATTACHMENT TO FRAME B, ATTACHMENT TO LEVER
;
C,
PLATINUM POINT.
32.
;
;
PLAN
FIG. 31.
DRUM
AND TABLE
;
A,
OF CONNECTION
fig. 33.
B,
BAT-
w, coils,
pivot.
assistant
that
is all I
behind the scenes to work. I think need say. There is another method
31.
Two
brass
drum end." Now you will want some batteries. I can recommend the new " Gassner
the "
dry battery."
according to the
say
in
to
latteries,
because
it
is
is
way
made
two ought
By
looking at Fig. 32 you will see how to connect the wires. I have put a bell-push in the drawing, because it is convenient for the
the drawing. Two brass used to support the drum. A pivot, like Fig. 33, is put on each side of the drum, instead of the loop in Fig. 29, and is let inside the drum, and connected up the same.
with
each,
as
in
candlesticks
are
"
series
upon
386
A CHAMELEON TABLE.
A CHAMELEON TABLE.
By JAS. SCOTT.
a matter of truth that the people of H||T this age are becoming strictly utiliis
perhaps, loss important, as the stuffed couch, etc., by suggesting to some, uses which they
may
of.
my
readers will
title
and
action.
They
all
I have know, I
demand
men fathom
their
what a chameleon is that curious little creature which Nature has so fashioned that, at
has a differently tinted skin. Let me inform them at once that this table is not going to change its colour periodically. Oh, no
different periods
it
!
mental faculties for the purpose of devising or inventing things, the utility of which amounts, in several instances, to what might be termed a
creation of
new
requirements.
Why I
of
call it
by such a name
2.)
is
because
is
it is
My
further explanation.
changeable in appearance.
(This
made
clear
by Figs.
and
place,
absolute
I believe
human
nature
is
and
is
hut a seat or chair with a shifting back, enabling the user to obtain what he considers more ease,
to
various angles,
necessity,
is
absolute
article
might be appropriately termed " chameleonism." A man soon tires of the neighbourhood in which he lives; of his house; of the furniture in that house and of the clothes he wears he wants a change. Very few people are exempt from this state; in fact, each generation has to thank
; :
itself and previous generations that this is so. Nearly all inventions are but the outcome of
couches
are
not
necessaries
hut
Here is a
accommodated
is
where
is
the
man
or
not give
settees ?
the preference to
its
possessor
it
tired
when
the flaps of
could be
created
When
in
one nowadays observes anything new one or another direction, one almost in-
stinctively exclaims,
of it?"
members
have seen
uppermost parts are concerned, be ladies would welcome such a table as this for use during an afternoon when a few friends called to partake of a sociable tea and I have been very anxious that in such a case there should be no cause for the complaint to be made that its numerous flaps were capahle of creating annoyance during adjustment; and I
so far as
its
the result.
Many
give
them new
as
is
Appearance
of
its flaps
have, therefore, so designed the article that all should assume either a horizontal or a
me
as
secondary importance
but in the
perpendicular position at precisely the same moment. To effect this result, I have devised a
which I have designed for the readers of appearance, in conjunction with novelty, is the predominating characteristic. To what uses it may be put, apart from those of any ornamental table, I will not pretend to enumerate but I leave it to those who may consider it worth any attention, with the hope that it may act in a similar manner, although,
table
this journal,
;
movement the very simplicity of which should commend it to my readers' notice. When about to adjust the table as shown in Fig. 2, the left hand would hold the table-top (Fig. 1), while the right hand would turn the legs bodily by holding one of them meanwhile, when all flaps would rise together. The reverse action allows all
flaps to fall.
A CHAMELEON TABLE.
Before I proceed further, I must
say that should
at the
it
387
be considered untime,
same
there
is
no
so
etc.,
reason
why
be
made
but
it
as
acting
The table can be made in any size, but the board intended to form the complete table-top should in every instance be square, and be divided into eight
divided (as
shown by the
lines in Fig.
flaps
marked a
(Fig.
shown
occupy.
in Fig. 13.
be under-
some amateurs
intentions to
to discard
try their
;
upon the table but I must remind any hesitating reader that this very reason which he may deem sufficient to preclude
all
desire
article,
to
progress
with the
should be ac-
work
of hingeing.
be obtained by having merely a straight edge to all the flaps where they come in direct contact with
The
effect to
shown
in section
at Fig.
7.
388
A CHAMELEON TABLE.
Figs. 10 and 12 an'idea
of
is
At
conveyed of the
parts,
construction
will appear as in Fig. 10. It must be supposed that the table-top is now upon them
There are four legs framed together, as shown in these diagrams. Before passing on to the novel feature of this table, I will give a method
of
particulars
of
with all flaps down, as in Fig. 1. To adjust them, one hand would hold a part of the tabletop, while the other would grasp the front leg (as appears in the drawings is meant), and turn
which will apply appropriately to the stretcher (bottom) cross-rails, upon which rests the fretsurrounded board, and to the cross- rails immediately above the framing, with the exception,
in the latter case, of the ends.
Fig. 16 shows
to join these
what I consider
rails.
to
be the best
way
when, without any handling, the to the left. It will be seen by glancing at Figs. 10, 12, 13, and 14, now and again, that this action must result in the adjustment of all the flaps, and that, in like manner, when the legs are turned again into
it
to the right,
When
fitted together,
The ends
;
of the
framing and
fit
together
should be mortised, to
into
tenons on the leg blocks the thickness of the legs must depend upon the size of the table-top. If the latter, when fully opened, is about 2 feet
square, legs 1 inches thick at their stoutest part would be suitable. I have shown square
legs,
framing.
The movement
it is
is
shown by
itself in Fig.
15
because I believe they will look as well as turned ones but need I say that their use is not absolutely necessary ? The outsides of the
;
supposed to be of iron, but as it can be made in wood, I shall describe it as being composed of the latter material, a a is a rail with three holes bored through it one at each
Upon the stretcher rails might be a board with a moulded edge, and ornamented with
fretwork.
It
and one somewhere between the further end and the middle, the end holes being wider b b is a at the top than at the bottom (Fig. 5 ). similar rail, but with holes only at the ends, and reversed to those in a a. The former rail fits
end,
closely against the
top of
underneath
optional.
the
and the
table framing.
The under
rails (their
under side of the Between the two, at each end, c o (shown also iu Fig. 9), the
fit
ends being rounded) are placed upon the table framing, and a hole drilled completely
may
revolve freely
through the centre of each, through which will pass a pivot from underneath, which will
penetrate the centre of the table-top, and firmly
secure the under parts in such a
either they or the table-top either the right or the
left,
To keep
all
manner that
turned to
may be
necessarily moving.
rails will
One arm
have
it
to
be shallowed down a
in
would be glued to each dowel (and not to the long rails, a a and b b), as in Figs. 4 and 6. To each rod, c, would be fixed another short rod, The d, terminating in a ball (Figs. 9 and 15). fitting of the latter rod might be left until the movement in its otherwise finished state was placed in proper position by being passed up
over the table leg (before fitting
rails).
order that
may
the stretcher
movement
am now
going to describe.
My
movement was,
give
my
is
must be shaped for part of its length, as iu section r and the arm of the framing imme(Fig. 3) diately below it similarly treated in a reverse
One arm
;
readers a
means
it,
direction,
as in a, Fig.
3.
considered desirable.
in position,
When
the
movement
shown
in Figs. 10
of
When thus
A CHAMELEON TABLE.
389
FIG.
3. SECTIONS OF CROSS-RAILS AND FRAMING RESPECTIVELY. FIGS. 4, 5, AND 6. DIAGRAMS IN CONNECTION WITH TOP OF SPINDLE SHOWN IN FIG. 9. FIG. 7. SUGGESTIVE SECTION FOR TABLE-TOP AND FLAPS. FIG. 8. HOW INSIDE CORNERS OF THE FLAPS MUST BE SHAPED. FIG. 9. SPINDLE, ETC., AT EACH END OF MOVEMENT (FIG. 15). FIGS. IO AND 12. UNDER PART OF TABLE SHOWN IN POSITION TO ALLOW ALL FLAPS TO FALL, AND TO ADJUST THEM, RESPECTIVELY THE MOVEMENT TO EFFECT THIS RESULT BEING THERE SHOWN. FIG. II. CORNER OF RIGHT-HAND FLAP IN FIG. 8. FIGS. 13 AND 14: PLANS OF FIGS. IO AND 12 RESPECTIVELY. FIG. 15. THE MOVEMENT. FIG. 16. HOW TO SHAPE FRAMING, ETC., FOR JOINING.
fixed
by means
of one
now be
very
flat
its
middle
slot in f, so
may work
;
in the
hollowed portion of that rail and another through the slot in g, so that its ball may work in an opposite direction. The movement will
be
name any
390 but
HOW
it
TO CAST A CHAIN.
will
will be useful to say that the distance it be pivotted from the table edge will be about f- of that particular projection to which it is attached, and, of course, along the middle line of it. It must be borne in mind, however, that it must be long enough to permit the framing
HOW
TO CAST A CHAIN.
By W.
P. M.
BLACK,
B.L.
^psSOWEVEE
to in the
above
title
may seemto an
assume the positions shown in plans Figs. 13 and 14; and must not, when adjusted, as in Fig. 14, be quite parallel to the edge of the table as if so, difficulty would be
and
cross-rails to
;
everything connected with the mechanical arts appears easy I doubt not that to the great majority of my readers it will
outsider
experienced in
its
retaining
its
original position.
There must be more length between its further end and the edge of the table, than between its nearer end and the latter, when as in Fig. 14. It may be wondered why I have shown the
little
seemed to me not long ago, scarcely within the bounds of possibility. The process of chain-casting has, however, been long practised in Japan, and has even in this country been done experimentally. In this country, where the conditions under which manufactures can be
seem, as
it
and
2).
must explain.
they would, of
carried on differ widely from those prevalent in a country like Japan, the process was seen to be
When
course,
first
nicely
adjusted; but
it
commercially impracticable, and consequently never got beyond the experimental stage. As a the amateur, however, stands upon quite
different platform from his professional brother, I had thought at one time that this process, so successfully practised by the professional work-
would be found that at the inside corners they would not lay properly, by reason of the thicknesses preventing them. Therefore, those corners
must be cut
(Fig.
8)
off,
will
thickness of a flap.
might be used with advantage in this country by the amateur but after carefully considering the matter, I came to the conclusion
man
in Japan,
might
to
fit
that the adoption of this process for ordinary work would be a sheer waste of time, even by
the amateur
who has
plenty of leisure.
How-
the
flaps,
they,
those
points,
should be
with a ever, I shall content myself in this paper brief description of the easiest method of casting a chain, so that those of my readers who may wish to cast onenot for use, but as an interesting experimentmay be able to
other.
Fig.
11
do so with the
least
and 14 show,
respectively, plans
of
The process I here describe will only be capable fusible of being used for some of the most will metals, such as lead or pewter but that
;
The
varied
and
it is
because
to
it
is
a comparatively
simple
matter
personal taste,
not matter, as the product of our experiment workshop will be speedily transferred from the upon calls the where to our cabinet of curiosities,
its
any
soft
metal can
and
2.
easily sustain.
By
suitable
No
mould
quired in order to
will
amateur friends while the construction of it would give scope for the display of what is very often commendable "amateur work."
will give pleasure to
;
my
be of brass, and will be made direct, To cast an without the use of any pattern. which is, inch, 1 oval-linked chain, 2 inches by good with make can perhaps, as small as we
HOW
TO CAST A CHAIN.
wooden
at the
391
hope of succeeding, we require for our mould four oblong pieces of brass, about 3 inches long, inch broad, and \ inch high take two of
;
them together
as at Fig.
1,
and cut an oval groove of semicircular section, like that shown at Fig. 1, on one of their two largest surfaces fix the other two pieces of brass together in the same way, and cut a
;
collar, some molten metal is poured iu pouring hole until the mould is filled the metal is then allowed to cool, and when it has hardened, the mould is slipped out of its collar, the link which has been formed removed from the vertical matrix, and placed in one of
more slipped
it
;
groove in them, taking care that it entirely coincides with the groove cut in the other two pieces of brass then
similar
;
cut
one-half
of
the
tapered
pouring hole, shown at a, Fig. 1, in each of the two pieces of brass that are to be uppermost
is then poured in at the pouring hole, and when that has set, and the mould is again removed and taken apart, two links will be found wedded
mould is being used. Now take the two bottom pieces of brass mould that are to be, and fixing them together with
the the semi-elliptical groove
the
when
Fl C
The embryo chain removed from the mould, and one of the links
together.
is
then
on
the
Fir.
on
other,
and
so
and when the mould has been replaced, more molten metal is poured in. This process is
continued until the requisite length of chain
is
like that
shown
upon the
surface,
where the
obtained.
fix
Should it be desired to produce an endless chain, that can easily be accomplished by placing the one end link of the chain in the horizontal matrix
the same
way
now
place the
chain in the horizontal matrix grooved parts all inside and at the other end of the mould, 3. COLLAR OR SHEATH FOR KEEPING THE the rest of the chain hanging pouring hole uppermost, and PARTS OF THE MOULD TOGETHER. your mould is complete. meanwhile outside the mould, Something, however, is required to keep the and then casting a link which will join the
2.
VERTICAL SECTION SHOWING ONEHALF OF VERTICAL MATRIX AND POUR HORIZONTAL ING HOLE. FIG. SECTION SHOWING ONE-HALF OF HORIZONTAL MATRICES. FIG. WOODEN
I.
at the one
four pieces of the mould together during the process of casting. The most easily made thing for that purpose is a wooden box, with a top,
but without
pouring hole, will require to be cut, to admit of the metal being poured into the mould. (See Fig. 3.)
but remains to describe succinctly how this is used for producing a chain. The mould having been put together, and slipped inside its
It
mould
whole into an endless chain. The product of your experiment, having been filed so as to remove the marks of the mould, can then be exhibited to friends as an endless chain, without a single join in any of its links and hence a curiosity worthy of being looked at. I would only add, in conclusion, that those who have had no experience of casting should read very carefully the article on " Moulding and Casting," in Spon's "Mechanic's Own Book," before attempting the experiment I have
;
described.
392
SOME CHAPTERS ON
SIMPLE ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
HyJ.
IV. L.
OIF YE II.
For the holder a forging should be made of square iron, with the shank large enough inch | The dimensions are given in to turn | inch. Fig. 26. The shank should be nicely turned to
| inch, and a hole drilled in a piece of f inch steel, into which the shank can slip, and then be clamped in the slide-rest. To allow of this,
alternative method of securing the body of the cutter to the spindle is shown at Fig. 23. Instead of the shoulder and disc, there is a flat-headed steel
the-
with
cutter.
a washer between
of
to
been bored, the bar should be sawn nearly the whole length, as in Fig. 27. Steel set screws with hardened points are threaded into the holder where shown, and it would be well, if the screws are not very tight,
after the hole has
to
This washer
it
has
prevent
spindle
from turning, and the point of the squared to fit. It is on the same principle as the square-holed washer above the nut in water or gas taps, and serves the fame purpose. I prefer the shoulder disc and liners, though, as not so liable to wear loose but to many the alternative plan may be
is
;
have lock-nuts outside, as shown in Fig. At one end, instead of a set screw, I use 24.
a
is
little
cone rivetted
in,
as seen in Fig. 24
it
A very useful
of
is
a pair
the
direction
pulleys,
which
will
enable
with
the spindle
acceptable.
shown in Figs. 28 and 29. They run on the ends of a spindle 2 inches
square steel, with for the wheels. inch } the or hard wood gun-metal of be latter may The lignum vitse or cocus does very well. The
;
A great
eccentric
deal of
cutter,
this
long
but
I
requires an overhead,
and
stops, before it is
good for
much.
will,
however, pause
to
grooves are rather wide and rounded, and 2 inches apart, so as to direct the band to the
largest pulley on the
jobs.
It is
and
is
It consists of
two
which I
The
spindle
is
steady pin is to prevent the guide pulleys from " slewing round," and can easily be put in as follows : When the guide pulleys
spindle
drill
is
pulley with three speeds of 2 inches, If inches, and | inch in diameter, and J inch wide each,
grooved rather deeply, but with the edges and angles nicely rounded, so that if the gut should
fly off it
a small hole, at the side of screw, through the spindle, and about L inch into the holder then take off spindle, rivet a piece of wire into
;
would not be
cut.
the hole, leaving % inch projecting inside file up this projecting bit till it fits the hole in the the screw quite insertion of spindle from the prevent then loosely shaking loose. (See Figs. 28 and 29.) We have now two cutters made, but they will be quite useless until we are provided with
holder.
shank of the holder a } inch hole is drilled through the spindle, and a set screw tapped in
at right angles, to hold the tools in this hole.
The
will
The method
follows
steel
:
of
First
centre
bar (some people drive hard pieces of steel into holes bored at the ends, as shown in Fig. next bore the then turn it roughly 25) hole in pulley, and drive the spindle in very tightly then put in lathe again, and turn the
;
; ;
some more
fittings;
viz.,
division plate,
and
pointer,
and the
stops.
whole
lot true,
me Of overheads it is already have three as explanation, to give any been described in the pages of Amateur Work. They are simply for transmiting the motion
scarcely necessary for
393
have described,
at of
j
when held
present
is
in the slide-rest.
make
any I have ever seen. Its details are seen sufficiently from the figures already given,
notably Fig.
5.
made, preferably, of wood, as being lightest. They are hung on a bar which might be hinged from the ceiling, or, if it is wished to have the lathe self-contained, it may be slung between two upright bars fixed to the ends of the lathe. My upright bars and top are | inch round iron, and the uprights fit into
direction pulleys
FIC.23.
when
not using
it
until
it fits
the
slot.
can
lift
The cross bar is hinged to the left-hand standard by cutting a slot in one, and filing the other flat
admits of a pin, which I can remove, and thus have only three bars to put aside. On
top of the right-hand standard there
is
little
394
USE.
bang
J incbes deep,
MAYNARD WALKER.
of a refrigerator
is
tben put
it in.
HE
siderable
idea
usually
Tbe slings from which the direction pulleys hang are very simple, being simply pieces of
iron f inch wide, \ inch thick, 4 inches long a hole is drilled through the flat side
flat
;
and ex-
pensive apparatus
occupying a con-
and one
at right
and requiring to be kept up with a regular supply of ice, and a somewhat expensive article, and more or less
of room,
difficult
amount
the pulleys.
The
to
suit
size,
so
than above (Fig. 31). between wheels and sling will prevent them from rubbing. The wheels themselves should be about 4 inches in diameter, and f inch thick, nicely turned with deep grooves pieces of brass tubing would do nicely for axle boxes. Set screws should be used to fasten the slings at any point in the cross bar. A weight imparts any desired tension to the band. I use a little bag, which I fill with bullets, pieces of iron, etc., and can thus vary the tension but I very rarely do this. A good band could be made of
; ;
dealers, and others in towns would come off badly during the very hot weather with which we are occasionally favoured during the summer months but I shall show,
;
game
all
with the household a much simpler apparatus will answer the purpose admirably,
and that all articles of food, etc. can be kept at a suitable degree of cold, even in tbe hottest weather, by a very simple and inexpensive method. The terms " hot and cold" are terms of
,
is
either
inch gut.
moment.
Now,
it
was
well-
The
and
it
division plate
is
is
known
made
too
;
duces cold," and acting upon this natural law they managed very successfully to keep their drinking water at a cool temperature, in spite of
the burning sun and sultry heat of the tropical
East, their plan was to keep the water in porous
10s. for
112,
and 100
friend of
greatly taken in
He saw
mine was an
Is. 7d.,
or
was quite
useless.
Considering the difficulty of making a division plate almost insurmountable, and wishing to
Fig. 1 represents one of kind as found in the ruins of Pompeii tbe operation of this is apparent the bottle being filled with water and stood in the shade, its surface became damp as soon as the water oozed through the porous material, the air immediately tended to evaporate this, and cooled tbe
earthenware bottles.
this
have my readers able to follow my directions, and provide themselves with ornamental turning arrangements, I will divide a plate for any reader of Amateur Work at a merely nominal
charge.
went
on.
This
is
very warm air, by moistening tbe back of his hand with water, and blowing with his mouth although the breath will be 80 or more degrees,
;
hand becomes
dry.
A SIMPLE REFRIGERATOR FOR DOMESTIC USE.
But, perhaps, the most striking example of the
of water
395
the
working
law is that of the well-known lecture experiment of freezing a small quantity of water into ice in the centre of a red-hot platinum crucible this startling effect being produced by the extreme rapidity of evapoof this
;
Whether it is hung upon a bracket, or stood upon a bench, or upon the floor, is a matter of convenience only. The place chosen for it should
be in the shade, and in a draughty situation the draughtier the better the action will be as
;
FIG.
2. REFRIGERATOR
of
IN POSITION.
FIG. 3.
ration
the
It
is
liquid
used
in
the
crucible.
in precisely the
same
follows
over,
The
all
water)
is
made
to
fulfil
the very
useful service of keeping the butter in a firm condition when, if exposed, it would become so much oil. FIG. I. Having now ascertained by what WATER means the refrigerator is intended to work, and having carefully examined the illustrations,
it
and the tray filled up with water, the draught, and the ordinary taking up of moisture by the air, will evaporate the moisture from the canvas, the surface of which will be rapidly cooled, and being in contact with a good conductor in the form of the zinc cupboard, heat will be abstracted from the air within, the canvas meantime being kept moist by capillary attraction from the
supply of water in the tray, the process being
continuous so long as the supply of water
up.
is
most
suitable
to
his
3
making
up.
Fig.
kept
As
but in the
396
PHOTO.
LANTERN
SLIDES.
varying temperature of the British Islands this kind of refrigerator is particularly successful, for, to say nothing of the altered temperature from day to day, the average difference between day and night is something like 20 degrees E, Again, the air within the cupboard being a very bad conductor of heat while at rest, the
not materially altered by midday heat, so that all kinds of food, etc., likely to be
interior
is
HOW
ALFRED WRLN.
$\
quired;
no camera
taken from
is re-
un-
required in the
cool in the
home may be kept beautifully hottest summer. The question of dione which must be
left to
mensions
is
individual
re-
mounted photos, or rather the negatives from which the transparencies are produced, as I It will be convenient shall show by and bye.
to detail
recommend a
We
shall
certainly not
each way, by
larger
of
would give ample room for a few bottles wine or mineral water, milk, puddings,
;
then Unmounted photos, printing frames, developing trays, camel-hair brush, ruby lantern, plate drying rack, glass measure, dry
require,
sizes the
capillary attraction is
more
effective.
It should
No. 10 zinc, and the corners strengthened on the inside with angle bar zinc soldered. The top should be domed or if it be
of
;
be
made
binding seems quite a formidable list of necessaries but some things may be manufactured at home, which will
plates,
chemicals,
covering
glasses,
mounts.
It
These must be of
j
The
shelves should
3J inches
square
if
must be properly battened, to The door should be as small as possible, and hinged to fall downwards, and should fit well to the other surface. The tray of zinc should be about 3 inches deep, and
their ends
and
and may
prevent
warping.
sometimes be purchased second-hand at a very trilling cost. It may not, however, be possible
to get
them unmounted ; in this case, a good soaking in hot water, and leaving them in for a
with a tap, as shown. When complete, the cupboard should be covered (except the bottom) with a close-fitting hood of canvas the striped material as used for shop blinds will answer
fitted
;
opening is made in the front to and an additional flap of canvas, but much larger than the opening, is fitted over this, secured with ordinary buttons, such as are used on clothing. The canvas extends to the full depth of the cupboard, so as to be under water in the tray. In use the cupboard should be opened as seldom as possible, to occasion the
admirably.
get at the
door,
An
day or two, to allow of the water thoroughly permeating the cardboard, will be sufficient to loosen the photos from the card. Do not attempt to force them off, or a tear will result. If the paper will not come readily, put back again in the water till it is more tractable. When your photos are off, dry well in clean blotting-paper, and keep in a book, so that they may remain quite flat. I may mention that in the case of
it will be necessary to divide be no detriment, as they can be afterwards mounted on cardboard, and used for the purpose for which they were originally
stereoscopic views
;
them
this will
minimum
it is
found that
sufficient
intended.
up
small photos,
Printing
may be
utilised.
moisture to so great a height as 2 feet to get the best effect so that each time one goes to the refrigerator, a mug of water from the tap is
;
Frames.
These
may be made
at
drawn
off
and poured on
to
the
top,
thus
but as the cost of them is only about 6d. each, it would hardly pay for the labour and time necessary to make them. We shall
;
home
PHOTO.
Developing
Trays.
LANTERN
these,
SLIDES.
397
Two
or three
of
either of ebonite
Is.
or porcelain,
costing about
each
as
pie-dishes
;
be pressed
trays
into service
or the amateur
water to make a total bulk of 20 ounces label mark " Solution A." Now take the following Carbonate soda(not bicarb.), 900
;
grains
carbonate potass,
900
grains
water
;
distilled to
This
make
will
be needed for
etc.,
previous
brush about li inches wide, and costing about 6d., will be the kind to use.
Ruby
Lantern.
The
and mark " Solution E." For Use. Take equal quantities of each. The mixed solution should be colourless, and can be used repeatedly, and until the developer
fails to
Alum may
instead
or
may
it is
The
cost is a very
one
about
3s. 6d.,
or thereabouts.
Plate
solutely
price, to
Drying Rack.
necessary,
is
This,
is
if desired, take ordinary alum one ounce, water four ounces, and label " Alum Solution."
Fixing
Solution.
Take
of
a great acquisition
the
soda three
hyposulphite of ounces
about
s.
Eacks
latter,
when
are
made
dissolved pour into a bottle, and label " Fixing Solution." This can be used over and
;
over again
but as this
salt is
so cheap,
it is
be dispensed with, at as a common wine-glass will do just as well any rate, it makes a good substitute.
Glass Measure.
;
This can
The
Dry
Plates.
These
will
be needed
to
J-plates, that
4 J inches
by 3J inches but
;
it is
not absolutely necessary to use that size, as lantern plates, 3J inches by 3J inches, will answer One as well ; so it is merely a matter of taste.
advantage, however,
is
being about 6d. per dozen. Wash them well in warm water, to which is added a small portion of common washing soda, to free them from grease ; rub them dry, and polish with leather
or newspaper.
one size, and the positives or transparencies are another but, as I said before, it is immaterial which plan be adopted, the results being the same. "We shall require two packets of plates,
;
Binding Strips.
costing
Is.
each
packet;
the
lantern plates
costing the
same as the
J-plates.
The
plates
Hydroquinone as
a developer has
or strips of black paper may be cut and gummed at home the width should be about \ inch. The use of these will be seen later on. Lantern Mounts. These are also sold in boxes price Is, they are containing one hundred
;
gummed,
come
of various shapes
circles,
list
squares,
at
and
if
ovals.
higher prime cost than some other developers, will be found as cheap as any other kind. The writer has developed as many as
standing
They
can, however, be
made
home
desired.
of necessaries.
One or
then
all
been exhausted.
Messrs.
make up
will
which they
;
send to
any address on receipt of 3s. the quantity sent will be two large bottles. If desired, the developer may be made at home, and here is a formula copied from Messrs. Fry's list
:
two empty cigar-boxes come in very handy for storing photos or negatives, and a black bag is very useful for placing the printing frames and plates in while using the gas. The dark room or, in the writer's case, a should be fitted with a small table, scullery chair, sink, and gas-bracket a batswing burner Failing gas, a good lamp is the best to use. will do, and the ruby lamp may be utilised for
vol.
m.
(n.s.)
398
the purpose
PHOTO.
LANTERN
SLIDES.
The
gas bracket
Get
all
your apparatus into the dark room may be close the door,
;
Previously to this, the and light the gas. reservoir of the ruby lantern should be filled with oil colza, with a slight dash of petroleum, combination, and burns well. is a very good Trim the wick neatly, and light, then close the lantern, and place on the table fronting you. Measure out about \\ ounces of developer in your glass measure. Now get out your dishes, swill under the tap, and dry with a clean cloth place them under the table before you, keeping that on your right hand for the developer, and on your left for the fixing solution always keep If to this plan, so that no mistakes may occur. alum solution be used, place the dish containing
;
frame should be held about eighteen inches away from the gas. Turn out the light, and take out the exposed plate, place it in the dish on the right of you, and pour the developer over it. A good plan is to first swill under the tap before placing in developing bath the developer will
;
Keep
till all
the dish
detail is
remove developer, and then either place in alum bath for a minute, or direct into the hypo solution. When the plate has been in the fixing for a few seconds the gas may be relit, and the gradual decay of the film may be witnessed. Let the plate remain in the bath for a few minutes till all the free silver be dissolved out, and then thoroughly wash under the tap, to free the plate from every atom of hyposulphite. It is a good plan to
to
"Wash thoroughly
it
in the middle.
When
rack.
must be poured
after development.
it
will
be
opening of
it,
an
So much for the negatives. When the negative is dry, examine it to see if there are any pin-holes if so, stop them out with a little burnt sienna, using for this purpose a very small brush. The mode of taking a transparency is almost exactly the same as the instructions
;
pro-
The
perly cleaned
if
one
is
must be cut
Lay
the glass in
Now place carefully wiped it from all dust, etc. your paper photo on the glass in the frame, as nearly as possible in the centre of it. The gas must be turned down to the very lowest point, or else the plates which we now proceed to unpack will be spoiled. Take out one of the
J-plates,
;
and the exposure will be shorter; one second with a good light will be ample. Proceed to develop and fix as before, and when dry get out
the covering glasses, select one that has no flaws
or specks, place the plain glass on the film side
of the picture
;
it
is
now ready
is
for binding.
rather troublesome at
and gently dust it with the camel-hair brush examine the plate by the ruby-light, and you will notice that one side is duller than the other place the plate on the paper photo, dull side down, so that the two photographic films
;
is soon learned. Take out about long enough to go right round the glasses being already gummed, it merely requires moistening with water by means Take your slide, which should have of a brush.
a strip which
lie together.
Be
paper
is
;
not shifted
if it
be,
it
must be
re-
adjusted
on the top of plate, and readjust the springs. Hold the All is ready now for exposure. printing frame in the left hand, and with the right turn up the gas full, and expose for about
paper
lies flat
and
even all round. It is rather difficult to describe the binding on of the strip?, but the beginner
will very soon get
used
to it
with a
little practice.
The
writer finds it to be a good plan to devote an evening to negatives, and the next to transparencies, and so on the work can then be kept well in hand. I have said nothing about the colouring of the slides, as a far abler pen than mine has written on the subject. (See Amateur
;
filings or iron immediately This simply depends on the " make and
Now,
bell,
if
by one
coil of
the
Work,
I
Vol.
I.,
New
that
Series.)
if
may add
obtain a specimen
free to
any reader would like to I will send one post any address on receipt of six stamps.
slide,
and passed away to the battery again from the other, and if the battery and coil were repeatedly connected and disconnected at every contact, an armature being substituted for the filings, the armature would be pulled down, and
at every disconnection spring back.
This
;
is
the
my
address.)
but as the
trembling bell must be capable of rapid vibration, the " make and break " must be performed
otherwise than by the finger.
To obtain
;
this
IT.
result,
coil is
U.
MILNE.
+ or positive pole of
the battery
Action of Electric Bell explained Trembling Bell Wooden Base Fitting Fkame BoxTables I. to VI.
or
The
action
is
that
HE fitting
can
platinum contact
have been placed in position, and the armature screwed to the frame it now remains to fix the
;
and completed.
spring, armature,
and
to
battery.
The
before explained,
This post
is
intended
;
armature, the
connection,
now become magnets, as and pull down the hammer striking the bell. The
cores
attract
be screwed in the hole at d, Fig. 2 and Fig. 4 but the bell will not act unless this part be insulated. In order to make this clear, a short
explanation of the action of the electric bell may
however,
armature being thus severed, the current the cores cease to be magnets, and the armature consequently falling back, again makes contact with the screw of the contact post, puts
of the
is
cut
off,
insulated wire,
latter instantly
is
magnetic state attract iron particles to itself, and behave in every respect as an ordinary horseshoe magnet. If the current is broken, the magnet loses its magnetic properties, and
ceases to attract or affect the iron particles.
to the test.
readily put the foregoing Connect one end of such a coil with one pole of an electric battery, leaving the other end of the coil and the battery disconnected.
of iron filings,
iron.
There will be no
is
when
the
This action, carried on in an exceedingly rapid manner, gives rise to the name of this bell " trembling " or " vibrating." It will now be very easily seen why the conIf this were not tact post must be insulated. done, the current would be " short-circuited," and find the shortest passage to the battery again, by passing through the coils and out at the other end along the frame, and from it to the battery, avoiding the contact post, and causing the magnets to attract the armature, and hold it down, until the operator himself breaks the circuit, or the battery fails.
and
fly to
the magnet.
If the wire
be again
The
contact post
is
400
metal frame by a small bobbin of wood shaped The part A is inserted in the hole as in Fig. 5.
of the frame where the contact post
is
under
c,
shows a
fitted,
bottom of the nut, e, underneath the frame, from The body of the screw can be contact with it.
insulated
thus preventing contact between the contact post and the frame, while the washer, b, lies between the screw and the frame, c, thus preserving
insulation.
by a piece
of
A circle
well,
of cardboard
a G, are then affixed to the frame, for the purpose of holding it to the woodwork. At the point h, in Figs. 7, 7a, and 8, the hammer lever must pass through the frame. For this
with a part of a quill inserted in the hole in the frame, and a similar circle of cardboard, or, better, bone, for the under washer, or any similar contrivance to preserve insulation can
purpose a
action.
slit, 1,
to
when
the bell
is
in
The reader can easily make this either by boring two holes with a drill,
be used.
The wooden base should now be made shaped as in Fig. 6, wood of \ inch being
it is
used.
and then sawing out the intervening metal with a fret-saw, or by cutting out the piece by means of a metal chisel, and afterwards trimming up
with a
file.
particular description
article.
former
have
is
shown
in the figure.
The frame is now screwed to the base board by the holes marked o, Fig. 4, drilled in the flat part between the contact post and the cross The piece, to which the magnets are attached. bell and other parts are fixed in position, as formerly described, and also fully shown in
Fig. 4. As we have explained the construction of the usual " frame " and other parts of the bell,
it
lever can be made to screw into that the fitting or disconnection armature so the of the two parts can at any time be easily
The hammer
accomplished.
Fig. 8 shows another mode of adjustment in which an ordinary contact terminal, a, is fixed to the frame of course being entirely insulated from the frame, as in the former plan, the black lines, b and c, showing the insulating medium. The arm (Fig. 4) can also be attached to this
;
would be well
before, followed
or the above.
construct a
wooden pattern
framework. Obtain a
\ inch thick
and \ inch broad, and work it into the shape of Fig. 7, either on the anvil in one piece, or in separate pieces, by soldering, or by drilling and screwing them together. Fig. 7 shows how the frame is fitted up. The magnets fit in the square, so as to be as compact as possible. They are screwed to the frame at the points a a the angle, b, is drilled, tapped, and fitted with the adjusting screw,
;
frame to guide him, as before recommended, also remembering to thoroughly anneal the iron of which he makes his frame and armature. Having forged the frame, he can file up the edges, and coat the body with Brunswick black, for appearance sake. If purchased, the cost of the metal frame for a 1\ inch bell would be something like Is.; slightly more for larger size. A very good form of bell pillar for
supperting the bell
p in Fig. 4.
as shown by by m, the terminal of the pole of the battery, through the coils, to contact pillar, out by armature, spring, and terminal attached
direction of the current,
is
given in Fig.
9,
marked
The
at
the
angle, screw,
c,
is
also to
drilled
Fig.
4, is
for
so as
hold the
armature in position, but insulated from the frame. This can be done by inserting a thin
piece
to the
pole of the
battery.
It
only
now
wood or cardboard, d, between the frame, c, and the armature spring, taking
of
base
The black
by a couple
of screws inserted
from the
401
C.8.
m
E
CD
CD
Fl C 6
FIC.5
^~
T1
^ran
FIG 7A
Fl
G.7
FIG
10
DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FtG.
A, SHOULDER INSULATING TERMINAL FROM IRON S- SHOWING INSULATING MEDIUM AND TERMINAL INSULATED FRAME C E, PLATE INSULATING HEAD OF SCREW FROM C C, IRON FRAME. FIG. 6. BASE BOARD A, BASF. BOARD; B, EDGES OF BOX COVERING BELL; THE OTHER PARTS CORRESPOND TO FIG. 4. FIG. 7. ANOTHER FORM OF FRAME (SIDE VIEW) A, MAGNETS B, POSITION FOR ADJUSTING SCREW C, ANGLE SUPPORTING ARMATURE SPRING D, INSULATING MEDIUM E, SCREW INSULATED FROM C BY INSULATING MEDIUM SHOWN BY DARK LINES THROUGH C F, INSULATOR PREVENTING CONTACT BETWEEN NUT OF SCREW E AND C G, KNEES FOR FASTENING FRAME; H, HAMMER LEVER I, APERTURE FOR LEVER TO WORK IN. FIG. 7A. FRONT VIEW H, HAMMER LEVER I, APERTURE FOR SAME. FIG. 8. SAME FRAME AS FIG. 5, BUT MANNER OF INSULATION DIFFERENT A, CONTACT TERMINAL B AND C, INSULATING MEDIUM D, SCREW HEAD ATTACHING A E, ARMATURE SCREW F, ARMATURE SPRING G, KNEES H, HAMMER LEVER I, APERTURE. FIG. 9. BELL PILLAR, MARKED P IN FIG. 4 A, SPACE OCCOPIED BY BELL B, SPACE OCCUPIED BY FRAME C, NUT MARKED 2 IN FIG. 4. FIG. IO. FORM OF BELL WHEN
; ;
;
FINISHED.
402
would be well to draw tbe reader's attention to tbe method of reguBefore concluding,
it
The hammer
should just
from the interesting and valuable "Workshop Keceipts," by Mr. Lock, and published by Messrs. E. and F. W.
Table
I. is
work
entitled
bead,
bell,
admit of a sufficient space between the magnets and the armature to insert a thin piece of
cardboard.
Spon. This table treats of tbe dimensions of horseshoe magnets up to 4 inches. Tbe book will be found a great acquisition to the library
of the
it
does tbe
The reader should press the armature spring toward the magnet with, say, a pencil or penholder, at h (Fig. 4), between the frame and the armature. If the bell rings more loudly,
then the spring
is
a vast amount of
price being at the
information,
too
stiff,
backward pressure.
magnet
bell
On
if
he
same time moderate. Table IT. is from Mr. Bottone's attractive and cheap book on "Electric Bells," lately published, which contains full and clear information on this subject, written in a style pleasing to amateurs, and very well adapted to meet the particular difficulties they are likely to encounter.
by tbe kind
be regulated accordingly.
By
slightly
bending
a series of able
the armature spring, and adjusting the screw of the contact post, the reader will easily arrive
at the best working
power of the bell. Fig. 10 shows form of bell fitted with complete.
box
The writer has, with the object of assisting the reader, appended tbe following
tables, of
on this subject. Table IV. contains information supplied to the writer, at his request, by one of the best firms of electrical engineers in England, who also supplied him with the information contained in Table V., which gives list of prices adapted to
and publishers readily granted him it is hoped they will be found to comprise all that will be
the use;
Table IV. Table VI. has been supplied to tbe writer at his request, and will, no doubt, be very acceptable information to the reader.
TABLE
I.
MAGNETS.
No.
BOBBINS.
Length
of Core.
b.
Diameter of
Bell.
Diameter of Core.
Diameter.
Length.
No. of Layers.
a to
inches.
1
inches.
inches.
inches.
inches.
2
23
4
u
11
1
3 4"
n
ii
if
I)
o 3
A
7
H
;
10
The gauge suggested by this author is No. 28, B.W.G., on each it is also suggested that brass should be used for the ends or flanges of the bobbins. These bobbins are made by bending thin sheet copper round the part a b of the magnet the edges must not quite meet. The thickness of this copper must be such that four pieces just equal in thickness the edge of a new threepenny piece (this, he says, is rather an original gauge, but then all can get at the tbickness this way). The hole in the brass ends must be just large enough to push on firmly over the copper when on the iron; they must then be set true and soldered on. The brass for the ends may be about as thick as a sixpence.
406
TABLE
Containing measurements of
IV.
bells
of electric bells.
manufactured
by a
Length
of
Magnet
Cores.
inches.
of
Ma a net Cores.
of Bobbin
Bobbin
incbes.
list
adapted to same.
inches.
incbes.
2i
2 2J 34 2}
&
5 5J
6
3} 4
H u
3f 4
A a A i A
if 2
n 24
24 3
j
i
H n
n
14 i*
24 24 22 22 20
18 16 16 16 16 14 14 14 14 14 14 12 12 10 10
Diam.
of
Bell.
L'gth. of Diam. of
M agnet Magnet
Cores.
in.
L'gth. of
Diam.
of
Gauge
of
No. of
Coies.
in.
Bobbin.
Bobbins.
in.
Wire,
in.
H a
tt
H
34 3J 4
24 3 34
n 93
1A
A
15
Ii
J
4 f
H
if
H 7 H 8
8J 9
H H
4J
5 33
l
if i*
4 44
5
2f
2A
3
1*
1
26 26 26 26 24 24
24 or 22 21 or 22
If
24 34 34 54
15
4i
4J 4$ a
2 2J
54 6
TABLE
V.
14
n
10 104
54 51
6
H *A n
ift ii
14
1A
H 2a
24 os 2} 2J 3 3|
r 'i
54
nj
12
6i 6* 6|
H 6
i 6$
III.
a
c
*-
l-S-o
i&
TABLE
e.2 ST)
Inch
Bell.
-0?
or.
pcS o 5 a 2
">A
Q)
CD
ote
it
S3
CO
o
a
Showing dimensions of cores, bobbins, with the addition of measurements of armatures, and quantities of wire
on bobhins.
Cork.
a
s.
3
d.
s.
1
d.
s.
m
s.
a.
s.
a.
s.
s.
a.
Diam.
of
Finish.
in.
'
Size of bilk
Armatures.
No. of Layers.
L'gth. Bre'dth Thick.
in. in. in.
8
24 3 34
1 1 1
9 10
1
0J 1 4!
6
7
Bobbin Cover U
Lgtb.
in.
Diam.
in.
Wire.
3
9 9
1
1
10 2 2
3
4 4
5
1 1
1
10
1
1
4
1 1 1
2 8
2 24
3
A a
b
B.W.G.
i
2
Ii
H
4
H
A li
24 24 22 20
18
14 ii 2
-'i
A
4
S i
4
4
i
1
44
.5
3
3 4
4
9 2
9 2
2
1
1
4 2 10
9 3
7
24
4 5
4
21
5J
6
6 3 6 3
i
6
6
2
6
4 5
3 3
Note. The dimensions of wire on bobbins will be smaller for long distances, the above being for ordinary work.
2 2
TABLE
Silk
VI.
cent,
of conductivity.
...
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
34
010
36
0079
38
0067
40
0058
109 080 -065 043 036 029 025 019 016 014 013
f.
a.
b.
a. s.
a. p.
a.
s.
d. s.
a. 6.
d. .
a.
s.
a. s.
a.
s.
a.
8.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
Green, silk-covered
Cotton-covered
per
lb.
...
3
2
83 42
83
4 2
84
65 83
5
43
67
84
8
4
69 85
4
10 6
(i
14
18
25
lb.
42
27 46
42
2600
3433
weight
11
17
70 123
1231
1733
404
HOW
HOW
TO MAKE-UP FOR
many
actors
have
THE STAGE.
By PROFESSOR LIONEL ARTHUR.
XII. Removing the Make-up from the Face The Right Way and the Wrong Lead Poisoning caused through impure grease paints the best Way of Removing the Make-up effectually and quickly Washing in Warm and Cold Water Removing Paint and Powder from the Hair Open Wounds on the Face- and their CureReliable Theatrical Toilet Preparation s for the Skin, Teeth, Eyes, and Hair.
duction of grease paints, but I believe an improvement in the manufacture of these articles has now been made by the best makers but I should still hesitate to say they were perfectly harmless without an analysis. In 1886, some sticks of grease paints were handed to an analytical chemist in New York for examination, the said sticks having been
;
purchased from the different theatrical dealers The result of the analysis tended in that towD
.
3AVING
it
making
course,
it,
show that lead was a common ingredient these paints, and in such quantities as
to
in
to
the
is
time
must,
to
of
arrive
when
and
to
all
produce most poisonous effects when frequently applied. The lead was used both as a basis and as a colouring substance. The chemist also
stated that
it
impurities.
Now,
it
requires just as
much
care,
remove the make-up as it does to apply it and even in this presumably simple matter, there is the right and the wrong way of going about the work. The inexperienced and excitable amateur will, as soon as his performance is finished, probably rush to a basin of warm water, and by the aid of a good supply of soap proceed to wash himself, and, as he thinks, remove all traces of the make-up. But
or more, to
;
toilet preparations,
Mixed with
of calomel, bisniuthinthe
powders
tionable,
their
employment, however,
objec-
especially
this
he does not do
they
eventually to
result
tions,
later.
the
blood,
with the
blood-poisoning
which are sure to Again, soap and water will not effectually remove a make-up at a single washing, no matter how hard one may rub the face with the hands or towel and as to spirit-gum, it will not remove it at all on the other hand, it will leave a most uncomfortable feeling behind. Constant carelessness in removing the make-up from the face ends in but one result beyond bloodpoisoning that is, a yellow and dirty skin. To the amateur who only makes-up occasionally, this latter defect is not likely to occur; but the skin of a good many professionals, especially ladies, has become so bad that they have to be off the stage as well as on. constantly made-up
;
but there are many other substances which could be employed besides white and red lead, and I should hope these are not now used, even in New York. Bismuth is objectionable from
worthless
;
it
same
is
true of calomel.
use in amputation and other surgical cases yet, in spite of this fact, its continued application
poisonous. I have placed this information before my readers not because I wish to frighten them
is
away from these articles, but merely to put them on their guard so that if they should at any time suspect any ill-effects, they may know in what direction to look for the probable cause.
;
I can,
finally,
paints to be
now
colours as yellow
etc.
HOW
405
Keverting to the make-up and its removal, the paints and powders, as before pointed out, are frequently rubbed into the pores of the skin
without
thought,
away, and has a final good rinse in cold water, and then a wipe dry with a soft towel, finishing off
half-
washed out after the performance, the face being more thoroughly cleansed when the home
of the actor is reached.
with a slight dusting of vinolia powder, the soothing effects of which, upon an irritated skin, are remarkable. These operations, if properly carried out, should, when completed,
skin of the face to its normal and send the artiste home in a most happy and comfortable frame of mind. How
restore the
condition,
different to thia is the smarting, irritated skin of
This, of course, is a
if
other ill effect, the continual closing up of the pores of the face is in itself an unhealthy
The great point, then, is to remove the make-up thoroughly and effectually immediately after the performance and I will now endeavour to show the best way in which
practice.
:
the
man
in a
up
in the best
hurry who has removed his makeway he can, and perhaps, after
it upon his face, and waking in the morning.
all, left
discovers
there on
this
may be
done.
is easily
A make-up
removed by applying an
;
So much for the removal of the make-up. Grease paint which has got into the hair, can
also be removed by the application of vaseline, and powder may bo taken out by brushing it lightly. Should the face get scratched, cut by the razor whilst shaving, or any eruptions or sores appear thereon, I know of nothing which will heal so quickly as Vinolia cream, and this
being those generally used of the two, I prefer the vaseline. The wig must, however, be first removed by holding it in the same way as in
putting
it on, and pulling it upwards, and towards the forehead. The moustache, whiskers, and beard are also carefully peeled away from
the skin.
made-up eyebrows are worn, they can be removed in the same way but if they have been made up with crepe hair, they are best left on till they come away of themselves
If
;
should be applied at once, as it is unsafe to apply a make-up in the vicinity of any open Vinolia applied to a razor cut, for surface. instance, in the morning will have effectually
closed
it
quickly done
by
well smearing
it
Beyond the
the actress
and rubbing the face gently until all the paint has been loosened this can be tested by wiping the face with the finger, when, if the removal is perfect, the skin will show through. "When the paint is thus
thoroughly
towel,
free,
can add much to their personal appearance and charms by religiously attending to the hygiene of the body, and particularly to
the face, hair, eyes, and teeth.
toilet
Now,
there are
and not
before,
tion
wiping the face gently but firmly this operamust be repeated if necessary, for which purpose more vaseline must, of course, be
applied.
beauty of all these some good, some indifferent, and a good many very bad. There are certain toilet articles in great favour with actresses, and
with
it
All the paint, the spirit-gum, and the false eyebrows, will thus be taken
left soft
and
pliable.
;
But
the pores of the skin are still closed up we therefore require a basin of clean hot water and a cake of Vinolia soap this soap is the purest
;
which have, in some cases, a purely theatrical sale and those which I know to be of value, and not only harmless but beneficial in use, I will now mention for the benefit of those readers who would like to know of a few preparations which are really good and safe to Nothing adds to one's appearance more use.
;
than
well
shaped, sound
teeth of
pearly
and very beat. The artiste now gives himself a thorough good wash, using one of the ordinary washing gloves for the face. Having rinsed
himself in
the
There
many
warm
water,
he throws that
market which do the teeth and gums more harm than good. As regards a good dentifrice, I
406
HOW
cannot recommend powders or, in fact, anything -which is at all gritty, however slight for these soon wear away the enamel. The great thing in a dentifrice is to cleanse and purify the
;
and keep the gums sound and healthy, and consequently of a good colour. Quinine is frequently used for this purpose, and can be well recommended. The two best ready prepared dentifrices which I know of are " Eau de Suez" and Guerlain's " Alcoolat de Cresson, de Cochlearia." These are both prepared in Paris but whilst the former can be had in England of any large chemist at 3s. 6d. per bottle, the latter can only be had from the actual maker, the leading and oldest perfumer in Paris, viz., M. Guerlain, Parfumeur, 15, Rue de la Paix,
teeth,
;
"make-up"
In the winter time and during cutting east winds, I advise the daily use of "Beetham's
this brand is a and vastly superior to the article put up under the same name by local chemists and patent medicine stores. The latter are both impure and do not contain the best ingredients and my advice is to leave them in the shop windows, and buy Beetham's at the slight extra charge. I have mentioned all these
;
Paris
the price
is
articles,
because
toilet,
they
are
essential
to
the
carriage
These articles are wonderful preparations, and I can confidently recommend them to anyone for trial. For promoting the growth of the hair, I advise the use of Guerlain's " Eau de Quinine " and
extra.
;
and duty
theatrical
success
in
the
them
to find out
another good preparation of the same maker's is the " Stilboide Cristallise," for adding a charming lustre to the hair.
may
For adding
brilliancy
and charm
"
Pyrommee," now used by all the leading For the eyebrows, and for veining, use Guerlain's " Henne du Sennaar " and for rendering the skin soft and pliable, his " Creme de Fraises," which has a delicious
Parisian beauties.
;
scent.
Guerlain also produces a sweetly scented powder, unequalled by anything I have ever seen used in England, which he has named
'
But, perhaps, Guerlain noted mostly for his really grand spermacetti toilet soaps, and his double Eau de Cologne scents. His scent, " Imperiale Eusse," has no
is is
Poudre de Cypris."
catalogue, printed in French, on and that his goods can be had by there is parcel post on receipt of a P.O.O. duty to pay, however, on receipt of goods in England, but this is not very much. As I wish to make these papers as useful and practical as possible, there are a few odds and ends which I have not mentioned, and which I will, thereI was fore, treat upon in a succeeding chapter. in hopes of obtaining some information on the manufacture of grease paints, and conducting some experiments thereon, with a view of showing
a neat
application,
my
readers
how
to
make
their
own
sticks of
compeer, and has an enormous sale. The soap scented with all his well-known perfumes, but one of the greatest favourites is that perfumed with his " Marechale Duchesse," and selling at
3 francs per cake.
and so ensuring their absolute purity. This I have not yet succeeded in doing to a
colours,
sufficient extent to allow
me
to give satisfactory
instruction therein
I always use
in until every
this,
and
is
it
scents the
room
it is
atom
used
but I still hope to do so, sooner or later, as no information, as far as I am aware, has ever been printed on the subject, and is, therefore, likely to prove of some value
;
up.
Speaking of
fume
Crab Apple Blossoms" of the Crown Perfumery Company. It has a cooling and most refreshing odour, and is well suited to the heated atmosphere of the theatre.
Many more preparations beside the above might be mentioned, but I think I have made clear to the amateur the necessity for perfect cleanliness in removing the " make-up."
A POCKET MEDICAL
COIL.
produce sparks.
it is
407
A POCKET MEDICAL
By
I.
COIL.
to give shocks, or
When made
ALLAN TRAYNOR.
Case Coil Bobbin.
is,
called a shocking, or
for the second pur-
medical
pose,
it
coil
is
when made
COIL
first
in
many
cases,
one of the
Its
amateur
construction
ambitious to make.
to
may
teach
an induction, or intensity coil. The principle on which either shocks or sparks are produced is the same in both cases. A current from a battery is necessary to start with but if the path which the current takes is made
called
;
portant lessons in
regard
up of a number of turns of
wire, as
it is
in a
fic.
I.
FIG.
5,
e Q e/
1
1
1
FIC.
!
6.
x
v;:;;:;;^
1
~]
1
T"
J
7
eurrent are greatly
FIC. 7
FIC.3
Fic. 2.
have only a hazy idea from consulting textbooks and ii well made and efficient, there is always the greater pleasure in using one's own handiwork. To become expert in the making of any piece of apparatus which demands the management, winding, and insulation of wires, the amateur can only gain his skill by trying
;
coil,
the
effects
of
the
increased.
That this can be proved, one or two simple experiments will show. If we complete the
circuit of
any
cell
of the
his
hand
at coils.
:
wound
round a lead
and slipped
off,
the wire
408
A POCKET MEDICAL
coil,
COIL.
will
as the coil,
describe,
current,
whose construction we are about to works on the principle of the extra as it is sometimes called.
proceed to work.
is
And now we
of the coil to
The
first
part
is
be made
Now, why
do we get these results ? The small spark in the first experiment is produced by the current from the battery burning a minute portion of the wire. The larger spark was caused by the wire being in the coil shape, one turn of the
wire increasing the activity of the current in the
turn next to
soft
it, and this increased activity produced an increase of spark. When the piece of
iron was inserted in the coil, the iron became a magnet while the current passed its magnetism increased the current in the coil, and the largest spark was the result. It must be borne in mind that the results, as above stated, are only got when the circuit is made and broken, as by touching and separating the ends of the wires from the battery that is
; ;
may
be made to appear so if a very rapid making and breaking of circuit is arranged for. In all coils
there
see.
an arrangement of this kind, as we shall In order, however, to understand the matter thoroughly, it may be well to perform one more experiment. Arrange a cell, a galvanometer, and a rough file (as in Fig. 1);
is
whole apparatus is carried. This is shown at Tig. 2, and is made out of a square block of any hard, well-seasoned wood. The block is to be 4| inches long, 3 inches broad, and 1 inches thick, and its surfaces well planed and finished. At a, B, and c, in one end of it, holes or channels have to be bored, a and c being } inch diameter (or, if more suitable, these may be made 1 inch, in which case the block will require to be 1 \ inch thickj, and b J inch diameter each channel is 4 inches deep, and must be cleanly made the channel A is to contain the coil, c the battery, and b the handles. A square opening is cut out of one side of the case between a and b, as shown the opening is by $. Between b and g a square cut is made, h inch deep and J inch broad. Through the bottom of the case at f, and into the channel A, a f inch hole is bored. From that side of the case in which the openings are made, a hole, as at x, is to be made with a a fine bradawl into the battery channel, as near the bottom of the channel as it can be formed. At d and e holes have to be bored right through
; ; ;
file f,
and
has to be taken that the holes are passing through the wood which divides the two
channels,
channel on
about pretty much, but keep the end of the wire on the file till the needle comes to rest. Now draw the wire smartly along the file, and watch the needle. When the wire is drawn along the file, the circuit is actually made and broken every time the wire passes from one
tooth of the
file
may knock
either side.
We
The
at
the
coil itself.
on which the wire is wound is shown Fig. 3. The round ends, or checks, are
f inch thick, their central hole
inch diameter,
to
the galvanometer
as
make and
was
break,
\\xi
a continuous current, as
being | inch diameter; they are better to be Before making the turned out of boxwood. central hole in one of the ends, a circular check
has to be formed upon it (as shown at Fig. 4) this check is \ inch diameter, and *fe inch deep one turn or so of a good centre-bit will make it. This done, the central f inch hole may be bored. The tube, t, may be made of two or three thicknesses of brown paper, wound first on a wooden
;
itself
we
have
been
When
finished,
stiff,
A POCKET MEDICAL
in thickness
;
COIL.
409
it
is to
worked
on which the wire is to We have now to select the size of wire to be employed in winding the reel. While we are not tied down to any particular size, it will perhaps be found that No. 30 B.W.G., silkcovered, is most suitable; with this the reel has
to
round the
joint, will
make the
part secure.
As
each layer of wire on the coil, it may be well that we should know how to make it. It is made by placing an ounce or two of shellac in a
be
filled.
The exact quantity cannot very well as it depends upon the closeness with
It is
always best to
wide-mouthed bottle, and pouringuponitas much spirits of wine as shall cover it give the contents of the bottle an occasional shake up. In twenty-four hours the varnish will be made, by the spirits of wine dissolving the shellac bore
; ;
buy wire
from which it with little chance of kinking it is also important that the ends of the bought bobbin of wire should be free, so that the continuity of the wire may be easily tested before the winding begins. This, then, is the first thing to be done with our wire to make sure that it is not broken it is easily accomplished by sending a current through it. One pole of a battery is connected to one
;
a hole in the cork of the bottle, and pass a brush through it, so that the cork holds it. The brush
end is to be always among the varnish, being thus kept clean and ready for use at any time. Before we begin to wind the coil, it is always better to drive off all moisture from the wire. For this purpose it has to be " baked," by
being placed in a warm oven for a short time. The paper tube should also be treated to a coat
of the insulating varnish
;
when
the varnish
is
is
galvanometer with the free end of the bobbin of wire. If the wire is continuous, on completing
the
circuit,
if
In the case
it
will
hard and dry (which will be in a few minutes), make a slanting hole with a thin, sharp bradawl through the boxwood end, on which the check The direction of the hole is is formed (Fig. 4). to be from the circumference of the boxwood end towards the tube, the point of the bradawl coming through the wood as near the tube as through this hole one end of the possible
;
bobbin by passing it through the fingers, and carefully feeling every inch of it till the break is discovered. The broken ends are to be separated by undoing the insulation, then soldered, using rosin as the flux, and the insulation carefully
to another
wound on
is to
be passed,
;
and 4 inches
pass into
it
was
it
now proceed
to
replaced.
And
here
it
may be
end
is
reached.
evenly,
it
The wire
;
is to
necessary not to
make
a thick, clumsy
kink occur,
when
re-
It should
be noted that
if is
the insulation,
when
and closely and should a must be put right. When the layer is complete, it must be tested to make sure that in winding the wire has not got broken. The method of testing each layer, as wound,
smoothly,
is
placed on a joint,
must
be made good by something else perhaps the thinnest substance that one can use is fine cotton thread, which can be easily wound round the joint and fastened. A dab or two of shellac
on being purchased but in order to prevent the confusion which printed directions frequently Connect the free cause, it is shown at Fig. 5. end of the layer, which passes through the boxwood end, with one pole of the battery, b the
;
410
other pole of the battery
; ;
A POCKET MEDICAL
is
COIL.
finished being bundle is shown It will be observed that one end of furnished with a brass collar. The
connected to one
o.
when
Complete the circuit by connecting the free end of the wire on the bobbin, w (which contains the wire yet to be
terminal of a galvanometer,
A
is
diagram
of the
the core
thick
wound), to the other terminal of the galvanometer. If the layer already wound is right, the
needle
is deflected
is
;
tube
() is
its
inch
its
internal diameter
inch,
it
the layer
and
already described.
Having
should
on In building the
first
boxwood
e nd
a good coat of shellac varnish, making good use of the brush to work the varnish well in when the varnish is dry,
;
now
then
be further insulated by being neatly covered with paper any soft paper will be suitable, provided it be neither the usual brown paper, which may be too thick, nor the The ordinary silk paper, which is too thin. breadth of the paper is to be such that it will cover the entire layer to the very edges of the boxwood ends, and of sufficient length to go once round the layer, and overlap about \ inch. The side of the paper to be next the wire is to
the layer
is
to
it
dries, it
is
laid
now
profirst
in this
manner the
being tested and insulated as described. The winding is to finish at the same boxwood end as it commenced, a second slanting hole being made, through which the end of the last layer is passed, leaving about 4 inches for
every
layer
connection.
with perfectly straight lengths of iron wire, till no more can be passed through. Tho core may bulge out at the middle, but a small piece of the wire wound round it temporarily will keep it right. When a has been filled, the protruding ends are to be filed flush with the surface of the collar then apply a touch of solder, and file the solder flush also. The opposite end of the core should also receive a touch of solder, to keep the wiresfrom springing. On taking off the piece of wire wound temporarily round it, the core should have the appearance of a round solid bundle, having every wire perfectly straight. When the core is finished, it should be passed into the coil, to see that the collar makes a good fit with the check made for it in the boxwood end of Fig. 4. The surface of the collar and the surface of the boxwood should be flush. The tube which slides over the core, and by which the strength of the shock is regulated, is
fill
the brass
tube
(a)
when a rod
of soft iron
was enclosed
in a
shown at Fig. 7. It is of brass, 3 inches long, and of such a diameter that it can slide easily over the core when the latter is inserted in the coil; one end is furnished with a small wooden head, to be used as a handle, by means of which
the tub
is
helix of
worked.
largely increased.
The iron rod became a magnet during the passage of the current round it its
;
aud appeared as electricity in the larger spark which was produced. The part of our coil which
to the wire,
Steoscueix, of Berlin, makes Liquid Bronze by treating dammar resin with one-third its
three days,
weight of carbonate of potassium, stirring for and then finally powdering the
is
called
the
resinous mass.
Next
it
is
scattered in thin
"core," and consists of a bundle of soft iron wires it is made up of lengths of what is known
;
layers on hurdles, exposed to a temperature of 50 C, after dry ammonia gas has been led
and
of
wound
The bronze
this varnish.
powder
Scientific
round the
coil.
411
detergent properties,
different
manner
to the above.
FURNITURE
perties,
reviver
to
be
good
degree of polish, -without leaving that unpleasant greasiness of surface too frequently met with in
preparations of this character, and, moreover,
it
should contain nothing that would be likely to prove injurious to the most delicate piece of
furniture.
Of
all
methods
of reviving furniture,
nothing that answers the purpose better than a good oil, which may preferably be a drying oil, such as linseed oil, which will be
there
is
found to "skin" readily, without causing any after sweating, or that dimness of surface which
invariably attends the use of rape or olive
oils.
A mixture
said to
practically
of linseed oil
good yellow beeswax, and one part of white wax, are carefully shredded and dissolved in eight parts of turpentine, by the aid of gentle heat another mixture being meanwhile prepared by boiling one part of Castile soap, and a small piece of resin about the size of a hazel-nut, in eight parts of water, and when melted the two are thoroughly mixed together and strained through fine muslin into a gallipot, or a widemouthed bottle, ready for use. Yet another cream which possesses still greater detergent properties than the above, is made by dissolving two parts of white soap in thirty parts of warm water, after which two parts of salt of tartar, and thirteen parts of white wax, are added and melted by the aid of a gentle heat, and when these ingredients have become quite dissolved,
seventy parts of turpentine are gradually added
form a very useful furniture oil, but, speaking, something more than
;
as such a preparation is inremoving any existing impurities, and, moreover, fails to "bite" the surface of the wood, at the same time exhibiting a fondness for collecting in the corners, and obscurin g the Tain of the wood. It is for this reason that o most of the best revivers are made slightly acid or perhaps alkaline. As is well known, beeswax is capable of taking a high degree of polish when used in conjunction with turpentine but, unfortunately, such a preparation has very slight detergent properties, and will simply be found in polish over any existing dirt with which the surface of the furniture may have become clogged it is
this is required
capable of
One part of muriate of ammonia is added to twenty parts of linseed oil, and, after being well shaken, two parts of spirit of wine, eight parts of vinegar, and half a part of spirit of camphor, and, lastly, half a part of muriate of ammonia, are added in a similar manner, the bottle being well shaken after each fresh addition. Another good chemical reviver of this class, which likewise contains no turpentine, is composed of a quarter part of gum sandarac dissolved in ten parts of spirits of wine, and half
properties.
before applying a
may be effected by the use of cold tea, warm ale, diluted vinegar, or soap and water, as may be most convenient. The following proThis
portions will be found to form a useful paste of
this description:
whole being added to ten parts of linseed oil. A third form of reviver without turpentine, and with a fair proportion of spirit, is made by melting one part of black resin in a suitable vessel, and adding, with constant stirring, when
oil and four parts which the mixture is kept at a boil for a few minutes, and then placed aside to become cool Having become sufficiently cooled, it is poured into a suitable bottle, with the after addition of three parts of rectified spirits, two
two parts of turpentine or the paste may be further improved by the addition of a small quantity of linseed oil and white resin in the proportion of one part of each to every thirty of
to
still
412
parts of spirit of salts,
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
and one part
of butter of
satisfied that it is
capable of accomplishing
it
;
all
that
its
the
Another excellent reviver, which is similar to first of the above chemical polishes, but which contains a good proportion of turpentine and spirit, is composed of twenty parts of linseed oil, three parts of distilled vinegar, two parts spirit of turpentine, one part spirit of wine, and half a part of muriatic acid. In using the following polish it is necessary to be particular
to get the surface scrupulously clean before the
prove a boon to those who have a large service of plate under their care, and know the amount of labour that repeated furbishing entails. By its use they will find that vexations on that score will be matters of the past, and that their
1
it will
and
think that
work
will be reduced to
an insignificant consideration.
Mr. 0. C. Vevers,
12,
Market
of this
reviver
is
applied.
Ten parts
of vinegar
and
handy little manual and I would recommend each and every photographer who does not possess it, to procure a copy without delay. The information the book imparts clears away in a marvellous manner the mystery which enwraps the initiatory stages of the art, and will enable the tyro to go ahead with certainty and confidence. The several processes and methods of taking, developing, and finishing the photo picture are explained in such concise language that an average intellect cannot fail to achieve
success,
A good useful
elbow-grease in
which too frequently dishearten and perplex the amateur operator. So much for
technical terms
theoretical detail,
it
and
a considerable expenditure of
order to obtain the best results.
as a
more advanced,
is to
Almost every housewife may be said to be acquainted with the manner of applying a furniture reviver; and as all preparations of this class are applied in a similar manner, this branch of the subject will not call for any special mention suffice it to say, that in all cases
;
Part II. are described alternative methods of developing, and the relative properties of the newest developing agents, together with advice likely to be of service in such matters as posing a sitter, photography by artificial light, and copying and enlarging. Bound up at the end of the book
are a set of labels, ready
gummed,
which will be welcomed as a novel and attractive feature. The book is published at sixpence.
Electrical
important for the furniture to be properly cleaned of all dirt before applying a reviver. A
it is
Catalogue.
Messrs.
me
Gent &
Co.,
Faraday
made up
their regular
electric bells,
fittings of
list.
is
times until
it
has become
sufficiently
which will be half an hour's profitable study to the amateur who is thinking of fixing his own bells or
of
The rag
is
now
telephones, or of setting
in fact, there is
up the
home
work until the reviver has been evenly distributed and the rag has become dry the surface is again gone over in a similar manner, but with a dry soft rag this time, a circular motion being persevered with until a brilliant polish has been secured.
the surface of the
;
no doubt that
Screw-Making.
all
satisfied
on application
to Messrs.
Gent
&
Oo.
Screws and
Colchester.
The
Britannia Company,
Amateurs whose knowledge of screws is limited whereby they fasten the parts of their
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By THE EDITOR.
5ILVASTOK. Mr.
Street,
T. Holden, 17, Eargreaves This is a liquid which, being applied to gold, silver, or plated goods, possesses the remarkable faculty to preserve
Burnley.
and protect the polished surface of the metal from tarnish and from sullying produced by the atmosphere or perspiration from the hand. Having tried this article, I am
handiwork together, can have little conception of the diverse elements that are comprised in the several varieties This book, as its preface of the whole screw family. asserts, is " the largest volume devoted to screws and screwmaking," and contains the information that amateurs it gives a good idea of the different are deficient in systems of screws by referring in turn to the peculiarities of pitch, thread, and diameter that distinguish them. The processes employed in obtaining screws are also treated of, and the use of screw-plates, stock and die3 and screwcutting in the lathe, are described in a clear and instructive manner. The chapters on machines for screw-making, and the chapter on that important advancement in metal working
;
all
who
413
stamped
if
Wood Carving for Amateurs. Crosby Lockwood & Co., Stationers' Hall Court, London, E.C. The author of
label
must be
fully
by
rail,
the
name
book (a lady), although claiming to be no other than an amateur, has succeeded in producing a very useful companion for the beginner in wood carving that will guide him on the road to proficiency, and will help him, when he encounters points of difficulty, to overcome them. The
this
Every care
will be taken,
The
The
prize
may
be withheld
if,
in
any competition,
less
work
more valuable as they are deductions from the author's own experience, and particularly the chapter, "Hints on Design," is likely to prove edifying and interesting to the
amateur
;
RESULT OF COMPETITION.
XII.
The speoimens
although
different
him with examples which he may imitate, or take suggestions from, as he pleases. The ability with which the author discourses is ample proof that her knowledge is not all theoretical and anyone who desires to pursue wood carving
;
and he may
safely follow
the guidance
it
affords.
are something very a goodly show from the unconsidered trifles which I had in my mind's eye when I made the announcement of the subject of Toys for a competition. Now, I hold that a toy, pure and simple, should be something to supply the infant mind with an attraction, and at the same time present no intricacies or
AMATEUR WORK
entanglement to confuse small intellects or tiny But some of the competitors have differed fingers.
PRIZE SCHEME.
XV.
from me
sent
in
in that opinion, as
many
of
them have
;
excellently
constructed models
in fact,
1 and
the
TWO BEST
executed
PIECES OF
claim to
recognition.
all
The one
is
specimen
and sent in by youths under 18 years of age. Each specimen must be accompanied by a letter from parent or guardian
attesting the age of the competitor.
FRETWORK
decidedly superior to
shafts, thus evolving
the others,
a mail cart,
as adjustable
anxious to dis-
among the readers of Amateur Work, Illustrated, a number of lads under the age of 18 years, who watch and wait anxiously for the issue of the Magazine, and who search diligently month by month its pages for inspiration and instruction,
pose of
it.)
Did the
its
cart,
these
lads a
them
exclusively.
it would be handsome appearance, and although constructed of odds and ends only, thanks to the skilful manner with which the material has been manipulated, there is no evidence of makeshift. For this very useful toy I award Mr. J. H. Edwards, 55, Minford Gardens, West Kensington, its maker, the sum of one pound ten shillings, that
admired for
being the
says the
first
RULES.
(1).
maker
and by an amateur
is
meant
par-
workman who does not earn money by the ticular class of work in which he competes.
a
(2).
an exact model, but merely a toy," although weaving can be accomplished by its aid in a very satisfactory manner, as the piece of web attached to the model proves. Not inferior in point of interest to this is a model crane, constructed in good imitation of the general aspect of a full-sized machine. I therefore decide to share the honours of the second prize between these two, and accordingly
(3).
Each
must bear the name and address of the competitor, and the number of the competition for which he enters.
(except
award tbe sum of ten shillings each, respectively, to Mr. C. Baldock, Ware, Herts, for the loom, and to Mr. J. Ballard, grocer, Ledbury, for the crane.
Among
(4).
MS.) must
i
If
the remaining specimens, a toy windmill is the only one neatly made, but beyond that has no points to recommend it hence I am reluctantly
;
the article
VOL.
III.
(N.S.)
414
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
IN COUNCIL.
ment
for reversing lathe than described
;
AMATEURS
by the author
pensive,
it
being
much
less ex-
The
Sev.
W. Wade,
8.
Peter's
and no knocking of cog-wheels, Vicarage, fulham, S. W., writes : OPEN TO AIL READERS. would, in my opinion, be preferred by "Will you kindly allow me through the most amateurs. The following is a columns of your Journal to appeal to Organ Building. short description of drawing A is a one or two of your readers who have a " E." It is possible to make a pedal broad pulley on the driving shaft, a, of few hours' leisure at their disposal in pipe answer for two notes, and in some windmill I am most anxious to start ; f is a counter shaft with the week ? instances the dodge is quite successful. three pulleys close to each other, the industrial classes for the boys of the
It is not advisable to
centre one,
c,
Children's Guild
parish.
two notes sound from one pipe. The scale for a third note would be so large that the power of sound would be far more than the first note. Of course, you must understand that only open
pipes can be
and
d,
running loose
clerical training
but the
fore
belt,
i,
has a half-twist
the
pulley,
revolving
manner.
in
this
" C.
M."
scrap
Having
screen,
decided
the
A
Si
number
your
yourself
J
I
compose
provided
i>
i
f
and
with
frames
of
accordingly,
procure of coarse
sufficient
canvas or calico a
pieces
leaf,
any form of mechanical D, in a art, and my own fingers can do little However, 1 else beyond wield a pen. hope this poor skill will stand me in good stead now if you will allow these G I lines to appear in your Journal. < should be most grateful if any gentleShaft man who could devote an hour or two in the week to the instruction of about a dozen boys (by way of a beginning) in one of the minor arts and crafts,
;
there-
struction
in
number
of
to
cover
i i
t
both
sides
each
allowing
such as wood carving or the bent ironwork, now so popular, would communicate with
me."
Wet
fasten
these
pieces
thoroughly,
and
"
damp
condition
upon the frames, covering both back and front of each frame, meanwhile paying
of glue
attention
to
them by means
the
t
to
.B.
C.
\S7LaJ*t>.
the
neat
laying
of
the
.d
shop front used one of the popular wood dyes, such as Stephens' ebony stain, or perhaps he used what is called a " flatting," made of drop black and
turps, with a small quantity of varnish.
If
you prefer
Oak varnish
job
is
is
and would do
not extensive,
why
same
corner
still
way by
;
the
canvas
to
is
Aspinall
diagonally
all
across
from
corner
disappointment.
canvas
damp. You must now cover the mounted canvas with sheets of brown Ziexihe/. paper well pasted, and also neatly .i. matched at edges then put the whole b. You will different direction to reand when of the frames aside to dry that is accomplished, you will be quire two belt guides. Now, if you put
; ;
<]
Electrical Matters.
"
Desperate
Amateur
"
1.
asks
the
any reader inform him what size boiler an engine with a cylinder 1-inch bore and
following
questions:
Can
(I gather
in
that
this
correspondent
wishes
to
obtain power enough to drive a dynamo if you replace them of the tympanum quality. As will run towards you an alternative method, you might ii, and slide on the belt, r, the latbe to light two 5-c.p. lamps). 2. What and stretch upon your frames American will run from you. As tbe above is not kind of dynamo should be obtained, a 3. Whether, by using leather cloth, if you are inclined to go written to offend tbe author in any its price? speed, to the expense of purchasing that way, I hope it will be accepted in such smaller dynamo driven at lower
material.
a way."
Reversing Gear.
ing an article in
'
Allen Carswell writes: "In readAmateur Work on How to Drive a Lathe by Wind Power,'
it would not be out of place you of a more simple arrange-
I thought to inform
[Your plan appears to simplify con- has in his possession) to give above siderably the problem of reversing light? 4. How can he ascertain steam pressure without a gauge ? " Desperate 1 am obliged for your descripgear. Amateur," is referred to the " Sale and tion, and doubtless Mr. Thorold also other will appreciate the cordiality of your Exchange" column respecting the matter in his communications. Ed.] intention.
"
AMATEURS IN
COUNCIL.
415
Violin Making. "Amateur Work, Illustrated," etc. that he will remember that we are very " Leslie Thain " communicates the H. Aubrey Husband, M.D., Watva- ignorant and stupid out here. I am " With your articles on nesa, Manitoba, writes: " I have to afraid that my letter will not interest following Violin Making,' which appeared some thank you for your reply to my you much half complaints you may last No one wishes more say. But few wish long life and success years ago, I began to construct violins, letter. Strad. mad.' I success to your paper than I do I to Ajiateub Work more than I do to and became quite
:
'
'
read
it
from cover
to cover.
I send
me it forms
civilisation
succeeded
detail
tolerably
well
in
every
I
and
an
almost
semi-
except
the
varnishing.
ex-
barbarism.
"
basis of anilines and various gums, Are the but obtained no good results. I, you a sketch of the tool it may inform bones boiled or soaked in any pre- however, became acquainted with " Whitelaw's varnish, and now advise him of Ahateub Work. By the bye, paration to remove grease ? [You will be pleased to know that every amateur fiddle maker to give up your letter evincing such good feeling making varnish, and use Whitelaw's. toward Amateur Work interested me Those persons who have seen the greatly, and the half complaints you cremonese varnish of its palmy days, discern in your writing were passed will recognise at once, what I have over by me unnoticed but the matters never seen in any other varnish, and which is characteristic, viz., that fiery can you give any instructions how to you refer to shall be prevented, and no make articles out of horns cups, combs, doubt some of our subscribers will micaceous appearance. Moreover, it the queries your letter is of such consistence that it is easy to etc. ? All the horns are thrown away reply to Except Whitelaw's, I have apply. here many very fine ones. How are the contains. Ed.] never seen any specimen fit to be comSafety Bicycle. horns softened and flattened and cut " Dabbler." Take my advice, and pared with the real thing. into combs ? In printing recipes, " " would you kindly see that the modern do not dabble in such a matter as Utilising Sewing Machina Stand. the seat pillar of your scientific terms are given for the bending " J. S. B." I am afraid the 12-inch ingredients French berries, sal "safety." The pillar would, in the wheel of a sewing machine would be of in first place, have to be removed from soda. Technical dictionaries with
prepared for
?
him
the
too
much
French
is
the air of
berries are
and
paste.
the
Rhamnus
iafectorzovs, as
given by
Bentley.
Again, there
' '
plenty of clay
I to diagnose
am
front would tilt the seat sufficiently to If you want a good thus driven. some give the improvement you seek to useful bench lathe, your best plan unless you obtain. Anyhow, are fully flower-pot makers in the Green Lanes would be to hang a wheel at the leftHow am I to proficient, or are prepared to view with hand end of your carpenter's bench, and close to Finsbury Park. catastrophe, let
centre bench lathe a wheel double Then, before you could diameter, at least, the would be do anything toward altering its shape, If required. you really wish to the tube would have to be loaded or utilise the stand, I would leave it as it filled, and annealed by placing in the is, and screw a small lathe of about furnace until blood red, and cooled lj or 2 inches centre on the top. A very gradually by placing in the ashes. beautiful little model lathe, which As an alternative, may I suggest that a would be very useful in turning small wedge inserted under the saddle at the articles about 1 inch thick, could be
;
machine,
thus
destroying
very
little
the
brazed joint.
flower-pot clay
in
'
Some
years ago, I
was
the
habit of
watching
a proIn the equanimity a the proper clay? drive with that. I can get old wheels banks of the Souris River, near me, fessional do the bending part for you. of mowing machines at Is. each, which there is a soapy subitance which, when Club for Bookbinders. If you decide to are most suitable. washed down by the river, give6 a H. Berry writes: "Knowing your make a lathe for the stand, I shall be lather by the side of the banks. In kindly interest in helping amateurs most happy to help you in any way in many places there is a heavy blue clay who are trying to help themselves, 1 my power. J. L. Dwyer. full of fossils. In a country peopled am induced to ask if you will find a Brass Fittings for Boat. by the farm labourers of England and corner for the following. Seeing the
distinguish
the
'
hired
man
is
'
of
Ontario,
art.
the
interest
that
is
being
taken in Mr.
'
H.
'
Berry
writes:
"In
reply
to
Help Morton's occasional articles on Homeua to make these rude attempts,' and made Tools for Amateur Bookbinders,' thus 'elevate the masses '!! There it has been proposed to form a club or deal of rough ingenuity society of amateur bookbinders, onf is a good among the people here, and I find my object being the interloan (to coin a
rudest attempt
a work of
'
Dingey,'
I copy the
following
ad-
'
'
word) of finishing tools, type, etc. become of Williamson's turning lessons ? Will all interested in the above writi 1 am looking out with deep interest for to me at 50, Lord Street, Jarrow-onthe Rev. Iff. Dwyer's papers. I hope Tyue.
poor
attempts
copied.
What
has
'The Model Yachtsman and Canoeist R. J. Turk, Boat and Canoe Builder, Kingston-on-Thames Charles Bathurst, Boat and Canoe Builder, Tewkesbury ; Theo. Smith, Medley, Oxford. I would try the latter
dresses from
'
first,
as
he
advertises
'
Improved
Fittings.'
416
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
:
Fretwork Designs. American White Wood. hands. Leisure occupation must " Will some kind demand no particular amount of daily C. E. K. Ludhiana (N. India). M. writes enlighten me, study, and only needs occasional Your designs reached me safely, and in reader who knows, through the medium of Amateurs in reference besides, I tbink that it my opinion tbey are very effective and but can you not supplement Council,' regarding the correct name would lose its charm were the thought pretty for the so-called American white wood. of such a solace as Amateur Woke these designs by descriptive letterpress They must have description I have been told at one time that it is mingled with daily worries that come matter? attached to them before being published tulip wood, at another that it is canary to us all. pages of Amateur* Work, in the Gliding Ivory. wood but I should like to know which
J.
'
is
differ
Hen
:
J. S. B. writes " Could any brother amateur give working drawings of a down with a smooth
Coop.
may be laid adhere pretty When firmly, by the aid of gold size. the gold size has thoroughly set, rub
"
N. E."
Leaf
so
gold
to
Illustrated.
Vulcanite.
:
upon
ivory,
as
" Uan you W. Gartside writes :-|a give me the name and addresB of any
object, such as a
good maker of vulcanite, preferably one who makes castings of the 'same ?
Any
"
be esteemed." Type for Rubber Stamps. Greenhouse. Floreat Gaulia." You can obtain
F.
Humphrey
mil
writes
" I shall
give
feel
the
London type-founders
Miller
for
instance,
they
kindly
me
full
and
,
Richard,
Water
Lane,
particulars
how
to build
a span
roof
[A short
article
Can any
reply
to
order
to
portable greenhouse, 15 feet by 9 feet by 5 feet 6 inches at eaves, showing the thickness of timber to be used, and how
the joints should be made."
With regard
Technical Series of Handbooks.
the
Bursoolah.
:
" Can any reader communicate with Max Lindner, 170, J. S. B. writes " Wm. Scott." I detect a note of Fleet Street, London, E.C., and you will of Amateur Work tell me where I can regret vibrating through the opening obtain what you require. There are get a bursoolah (pp 481, Vol. V.) made, portion of your letter, but I hope there various printing presses introduced Also the copper for and probable cost. is no reason for it, and that you have the use of the amateur ; the "Caxton" cup of the blow-pipe (pp 22, Vol. III., health and vigour if you possess theBe, is not very well known to me, but the New Series)." there is little need for despair at in- Model Printing Press Co. have a Simplex Glazing. Each one of us is variety and if you are wanting such an feriority of station. Have any of our J. S. B. writes only an instrument in the hands of a article, I should advise you to write to readers ever used the simplex glazing higher power, and we may only do with their address, Farringdon Street, London, City Road, by Grover, supplied our little might the work that is set for E.C., for a catalogue. London ? 25s. per 100 feet does not With regard to the us to accomplish. seem dear, as one can do one's own Electrical Matters. publication of a series of text-books, " 0. H." " Rheostat " is a Freneh repairs at once, and first cost is all." each as a vade mecum to a particular Incubator. branch of mechanics, I am afraid the term meaning a resistance through " Amateurs which a current of electricity is made " Quill." In in suggestion must share
'
'
the fate of
its
predecessor, and
be
diicarded.
The
question to be considered is its intensity. In lighting by electricity whether such an issue would receive the current sometimes requires modifisupport and encouragement sufficient cation, and rheostats are employed. word seems to have been to ensure against loss in the cost of The French adopted by English electriproduction. I think not, and more generally especially would such a series receive cians, and I do not think they have yet condemnation were it produced in the coined an equivalent. cheap pamphlet-like manner that you Article on Soldering. describe. The want of amateur L. Lowther. Your MS. on soldering mechanics is pretty well gauged in a reached me safely, but as it is not my
great
No
Erratum.
Some Chapters on Simple Ornamental Turning." In Fig. 8, page 297, Part 30 of Amateur Work, the
"
square
be
part
of
the
shank
-}
should
inch as there
shown.
J.
L.
Dwyer.
publication like " ours," giving as it does each month just sufficient matter
custom to acknowledge articles unless a stamped envelope be enclosed, you LETTERS RECEIVED UP TO JUNE 10. for ordinary digestion, and providing did not hear from me. J. Taylor [Harrow Weald) H. The other chatty companionship at the work- matter you refer to in your letter shall Pritchard James M. Hay (PeterJmgif bench whilst the tools are in our receive attention. Ed. N.B.).
;
TTTTTT TTT
iNewSsrleuj,
AUGJST, 1891
I";
--'
,
HOW
TO
MAKE A
HALL-STAND.
is
417
HOW
TO
By
"
MAKE A HALL=STAND.
ONE OF THE CROWD:'
show a simple design
which should recomanyone having even
by so doing one
idea being to
make
Then,
HE illustrations
mend
itself
for a hall-stand,
to
what might be called a complete set of though it is not easy to define what a perfect or complete set consists of but. anyhow,
tools,
;
but a slight knowledge of carpentry, as well as The to those more advanced in the "art."
design
is
he has to make a few tools answer the purpose of manj', and the accompanying illustration is
suitable for such
an one.
":
LJ
ric.l.
HaE stand.
~1
FIC.5.
Section. of
FIC*.
Fkai cf idnctray
ago,
xaw 1ray
when
first
starting housekeeping,
it
and
is
Now, how
consider
of.
still,
to
make
it.
only stands
is
what wood
for
to
The make
first
thing to
the hall-stand
making
time
same
(not,
of
course,
including
the
yellow pine,
it
the latter, as
may be calculated not to exceed ten shillings, which includes the silvered
hat and coat hooks, drawer handle
though where an
;
be eventually
glass,
in
is
i
painted or enamelled, knots do not so much matter however, in this present design I used
fact, everything.
The
cost in
amateur work
it.
First, then,
I by myself}, and
Vol. III.
prepare the pieces for the back, for which the wood should be of 1 inch stuff, which, as most
1
making anything
(New
home
to
know
that
amateurs know, means about inch when planed VOL. III. (N.S.) L L
418
HOW
;
TO
MAKE A
for
HALL-STAND.
down
but, as
my
idea
must make allowance for these minor details being given. To proceed the two uprights, a, measure 6 feet 6 inches long by 4 inches wide, the top and bottom rails 2 feet 2 inches long (when fitted) by 4 inches wide, the middle rail the same length, but 6 inches wide. These three
:
would be were due time given to each part in its turn and to use the words of the wellknown adage, " What is worth doing at all, is worth doing well," should be impressed strongly on the mind of the amateur, and be present It is a very in his thoughts when at work. strong point indeed, and the best of us are apt
;
to forget
it
rails are
of our hands.
Having
out,
fitted
ItailB, 1 inches
3 feet 3
(middle
rail),
rail u, right at
must be taken
the bottom.
In Fig. 2, I give a drawing of the back, only showing the positions and lengths of the tenons, by which it will be seen their length is but half the width of the uprights or rails, into which
they are mortised, except in the case of the tenons in the middle rail, which need not
exceed
1
and rebated at the back to Most amateurs know what this means, it being a right-angled piece, taken out of the wood at the back on the inside
take the glass.
edge, to allow the glass to
fit
in.
The rebate
The glass should be, say, | inch by \ inch. will probably be f inch thick, and will require
blocking at the back, to keep
it
from
rattling,
inch in length.
The tenons
will
be
found sufficiently long, providing they fit tight, and this can only be done by marking the mortises and tenons out by the aid of a gauge, and keeping strictly to each mark in cutting out the mortises, and slightly outside the marks when sawing the tenons. For wood f inches thick set the gauge \ inch, and mark the wood This applies from both sides (see Fig. 3).
equally for mortises as well as tenons.
referring again to Fig.
2,
it
and a thin back of wood fixed on the back, The similar to an ordinary looking-glass. appearance of the glass would be much. improved by having bevelled edges f inch, but
add to the cost be as much as the glass
this will
;
'
itself;
is
optional.
and
By
be seen the tenons are not so wide as the rails, upon which they are cut, and for a general rule all through,
will
allow \ inch
shoulder
either
side,
except in
bottom
side
where the shoulder is upon one and that 1 inch instead of \ inch. The centre uprights are 2 inches wide, and mortised into top, bottom, and middle rails, 5 inches from the outside uprights, which will
rail, d,
only,
leave
rails,
a centre space of
which go
to
same width and if the foregoing measurements are followed strictly, they will be
glass, are of the
1
2 inches
long when
fitted.
Make
all
the tenons
and mortises, and fit nothing together permanently till the back is completely made, and
every part
fits
well.
assuming it fits the rebate, take it out of the frame until the stand is completely finished. The bottom of stand is 2 feet 10 inches long, 11 \ inches wide, and | inch thick,' with three blocks of wood, screwed on underneath, 1 inch these blocks thick, to raise it from the ground should be 4 inches square. If made of yellow pine, it will be easy to get wood the required width, thus saving a join; but if ordinary deal is used, it will be better to reduce the width of bottom board 1 inch board 1 1 inches wide will do, this being the widest deal board, the width of deal being generally 9 inches and 1 1 inches, called deals in the 9 inches, and planks In the bottom, cut two holes in the 1 1 inches. 6 inches square, and 1\ inches from the front and side edges these are for zinc trays, which should be made to fit loosely, so as to be removed when necessary, and should have a \ inch flange round them at top, to keep them in their
; ; ;
There amateurs
is
part
of
places
hurry over their work, in order to see the effect when finished but, depend upon it, the results are not so gratifying as they
to
;
these will cost about a shilling to get made, unless the amateur is capable of making them himself, in which case get two pieces of moderately stout zinc 8 inches square, cutting
;
HOW
will leave
TO
MAKE A
HALL-STAND.
J19
an inside centre 6 inches square, which forms the bottom of tray then turn up the four
;
9 inches from the back, and a small moulding can be fixed at the bottom (as shown in Fig. 1),
same
sides to
make
As
;
dotted lines,
make
the flange
then
ornamentation, glue will be found sufficiently strong to fix these pieces at same time glue the
using pure spirit of salts to clean the metal ready for the solder. Fig. 5 shows section of a tray, which should be 1^ inches deep, f inch
flange.
tightly.
The uprights
feet
for umbrella
10| inches long, which allows \ inch for letting into the bottom, and are fixed opposite the middle of the uprights, a,
9 inches from back, in a line with the centre
measure 2
The bottom
screws,
will
1
is
this
upright.
They
are
make
inch
much improved by running a bead moulding on each of the four sides, by means of a " bead
router "
;
The brackets
should next be
support
;
the
drawer-box
or
if
made
each way, and f or f inch thick, the pattern (see by means of a frame saw.
The
rails are
\ inch by
inch
stuff,
and are
The
to
the tops of brackets being on a line with the bottom edge of middle rail. The box for drawer is 16 inches long, 5 inches deep,
10 inches back to front (outside measurements),
the bottom and sides being of i inch wood, the
These are
this will keep of drawer box f inch, and glued them all quite rigid. Allowance must be made when cutting out the rails for the f inch each
top | inch.
The three
end
to
be
let in,
be finished off in some way, either by a chamfer or a moulding, to give it a better appearance, in which case it would be as well to increase the measurements of the top J inch on each three sides, making it overlap the sides and front To simplify matters, the sides, which J inch. are 4 inches high, can be fixed to the bottom with French nails from underneath; the top should not be fixed till later on, as I will show.
made being
the drawer.
According to the size given for its case, the drawer is of fairly good size at all events, sufficiently large to keep the clothes and hat
brushes
describe
in.
It is to
how
make
a drawer, but
if
the
Having
fix
two screws in
firmly.
The
centre
but solely to prevent any forward motion of the stand when completed. It measures about 2 feet
7i inches high, 3 inches wide, J inch thick. It should be let in the bottom \ inch deep, and the top screwed to the bottom of drawer-box, taking care that the heads of the screws do not protrude so as to interfere with the sliding of the drawer in and out.
This upright should be fixed in a line with the
uprights for the umbrella
rails,
amateur does not know, let him take his copy from a chest of drawers. Do not attempt to rail it together. The top of drawer-box can now be fixed, and to do so, a few thin wire nails with their heads off will do well, and if punched in, will not be noticed. Now, with regard to the finish, it is difficult to know what the amateur's taste may be some prefer enamel, some varnished only on the natural wood, whilst others may prefer a darker
;
colour
way
is
to give par-
and with which finish I am perfectly satisfied up to the present time. First, then, well sandpaper the work, taking great care that all rough places are removed then stain with dark oak stain. I can confidently recommend Jackson's powder
ticulars
finished,
420
stain,
ac-
little article
may be made
with one
(or, at
most,
cording
either
instructions
with
it,
and
which soon
dries,
If
is more limited. The reader remember the following rule the length and breadth of the shelves are
do well
a second coat, and a third if not dark enough but two coats will give the wood the appearance of walnut, after which I rubbed in boiled linseed oil, which takes off the extreme dulness and at any future time, a little oil again rubbed in makes the stand look as good as new. I
;
is no wasted space in the and a horizontal section of the framework of the cabiuet would show a cross, with arms of equal length, and at right angles to each other. On the other hand, every inch added to
centre,
is
equalled
by
so
much
Four brass hat pins (two on each upright), and a similar number of brass wardrobe hooks, screwed on the sides for coats, and a brass handle for the
certainly prefer this to varnish.
if
the worker
know what
wood
of the
framework) from
nothing
can
very
difficult in
its
the construction
is
its
cost is
nominal, but
appearance
say
this,
good,
if
plain.
The
details
of
confidently
The
is
cabinet sketched
of the simplest
fault-finding.
few words on
point,
however,
may
not be uuwelcome.
may be
and a
Or,
wood,
may
replace them.
Decoration Provision
of
this
Cabinets Substifor
may
by replacing the
Nor,
bars by specimens
his
handiwork.
S]HE
object
paper
is
to
give
some
being so far numerous, that everybody ought to be able to get something to his taste. It will not be necessary to spend much time over the mere
and these will simply be mentioned before we pass on to some modifications of construction. Of course, the cabinet can be made of any requisite height. For instance, the amateur whose space is limited can adopt the Dutchman's plea, on behalf of his tall house, that "land is sheap up dere," and go on adding shelves until he needs a step-ladder
alterations of detail,
though I have not seen it tried, does there seem any reason why rows of spindles should not do duty, if the amateur is handy with his lathe, and anxious to demonstrate the fact. Should this be the case, the spindles had better be halved, for various reasons the books will rest better against the flat sides, for one, and another reason, which will not be without weight, unless the amateur have an unusual amount of patience and enthusiasm, is that
;
method be chosen by anyone, to stick two pieces of wood together, with a piece of paper between thorn they will come apart readily before turning Of course, it will be after being turned.
Should
this
he
is
recommended
;
or,
again, a very
handy
necessary to
see
are
421
FlC
lo.
3f? 2'
20"
FIG.I3.
Frame
at c
(Fig. 11
J'
.18'
FIG
6.
'bove botttym.
422
exactly in the centre of the line of junction, or the two halves will not be equal.
drawn
But
in
many
Supposing fret-cutting
or wood-carving
to
and too
be selected, it is evidently optional to the amateur that the work be in one long piece, or
divided into
shelves.
as
many
sections
as there
are
Again, glass may be use^, two frames for each side being made with rebates on the inner edges to carry the glass. The width of one frame must equal the length of the shelves,
that of the other must equal their breadth. In the case of Fig. 8, the frames require to be 14 inches and 7 inches, the glass being fixed
in the frames
;
few atlases that need accommodation. This may be provided in two ways. If the space required in length and breadth be less than the breadth of the cabinet (in this case 2 feet square), they may lie on the
to
few
make
this
worth while
all
top.
pillars, or spindles
erect
one on each corner of the cabinet top, and fix another top on the spindles. Fig. 9 will explain
the foregoing idea.
Another plan
is
instead of the bars, and the other hinged to this (or to the edge of the frame of the cabinet),
to
serve as a door
when
so
arranged, the
be seen that one side of the ' core " (as we may call the enclosed space in the centre) has been removed to the height of the second shelf, and a
plank of the same height fixed at right angles to the backboard. As will be seen, the first shelf on that side will only be 7 inches long. The space thus provided is 1 foot 8 inches high, Of course, 6 inches across, and 14 inches deep. the opening can be continued to the third shelf,
or even to the top,
side of the
and
its
appear-
ance
glass.
much improved by
It
is,
out that
lined.
if
had better be
A
the
minor
shelves
detail of
decoration
may be menof
and
(if
by a moulding or beading
and material.
of the cabinet is likewise
core can
also
be removed, thus
suitable width
by 2
feet,
The stand
feet,
open to
Any design for the with any amount of embellishment, may be substituted for the very plain ones shown in our
considerable improvement.
typical cabinet.
amateur with hints and ideas on this head (or, rather, "on these feet "). The only hint needed here is that enough of the stand should be left level at the
top to carry the revolving apparatus
it
whatever
whatever happens to be the height and breadth of the cabinet. The easiest way to carry out this alteration will, perhaps, be to make two frames of the size and dimensions shown in Figs. 12 and 13, the other two lemaining as The joinery, as a whole, being similar before. to that of Fig. 8, need not detain us further. Fig. 14 shows a modification of a different kind, its object being to do away with the stiffness inseparable from unbroken straight
or
be
indeed,
if
upon, they should be as wide apart as the breadth of the cabinet will allow.
pass on to the modifications of In the cabinet already described, the larger boiks decide the breadth of the cabinet, and, perforce, some space is lost owing to the upper shelves being wider than is necessary. A
structure.
We
now
seems a simple matter enough thus to compartments holding the books from side to side, but it entails a complete alteration in the construction of the framework. This construction is shown tant bien que mal in Fig. 17,
lines.
It
shift the
not with
concerned.
much The
thing
itself is,
however, simple
or, at all events,
enough.
It will
be necessary,
easiest, to
alto-
avoided,
even when
there
is
sufficient
shelf.
number of large volumes to require a whole At this point, I will mention that the
gether independent of the rest of the framework. Ascertain, according to the rule laid down above, what the space to be occupied by the " core "is
REVOLVING BOOK CABINETS
be also the total height of the book-shelves. Get four pieces of wood of the length required two of them will have to be as wide as the core
to
; ;
423
that
is,
and
projecting
third set
by twice the thickness wood employed. Thus, in the case before the framework is of 1 inch wood, the length
is
The
number
of shelves.
of the shelf
14 inches, and
7
its
breadth 7 inches.
is to
Now
prepare and
8.
fix
From
14 deduct
+ 1=6
if
core space.
be made of \ inch wood, which practically will be found sufficient, we shall need for the core
Then,
the
Before beginning to prepare the shelves, a point requires to be settled. It will be seen, on
reference to Fig. 14, that I have, for variety's
sake,
the following
two
3 long,
wood
6
replaced the
pieces
bars by squares of
If
that
inches
wood.
It
will
to
being
be
necessary
our book - shelves. Let the core, when made, be exactly square in section,
the
fitted
a,
be used.
Let us
pieces
being
upon
we
will
now
the
together as at
proceed
shelves,
with
Fig. 19.
Next
prepare as
pieces of
many
as
wood
to
you mean
have
Always supposing
the sizes of cabinet
compartments for books that is, four to each shelf, and let them be exactly
I.C
.17'.Trame oflig.
be adhered to, each shelf must be shaped like Fig. 18, and beof thedimensions figured.
and
as
to
The
be high
in
object of this,
trust,
14 inches long
be clear
of fixing will, I
It will
be seen
into the
by
These are to form the framework of the cabinet, as in Fig. 17. Proceed, then, to screw them to the " core," beginning, let us say, from the bottom, and
four (and widest) pieces so that the left-hand edge will be flush with the left-hand corner of the core, and projecting
first
and therefore
fits
fixing
the
be seen that each shelf projects \ inch to the left beyond the core this causes the end to bear upon the frame beneath, which,
;
away to the right (see Fig. 15); then proceed with the next four (in point of width), leaving between each row a space equal to the thickness
of the shelves
mu.it
two shelves which bear upon it (see Fig 19, where the frame beneath is indicated by dotted The dotted lines at the end of each lines).
shelf
here
f inch.
stand.
is
the squares of fretwork are to means, the necessity of ledgers done away with, the shelves being sufficiently
mark where
By
this
424
supported
METAL-TURNING.
;
between
the
they must be glued into the space parts of the framework, and
METAL-TURNING.
By A
FOREMAN PATTERN-MAKER.
Should
appear too complicated (it is not really so in the working out), the amateur must make the three lower sets of his frames f inch wider than
the sizes given, and so do
V. Slotted Face-plate Bolts and Dogs Turning Eccentric Sheaves Single Sheave Lining Out
P^5?||HIS
f fill H |J|g||
be occupied with
illus-
trat i ns f
work turned on
slotted
His shelves will then have to be 14 inches by 7| inches, and be supported on If, however ledgers, as in the case of Fig. 8. (as is strongly recommended), the plan figured be adopted, the shelves must be 15 inches long by %\ inches wide at their widest part, which,
between them.
however, only extends for 6| inches, the remaining 8 inches being 8 inches wide. Should the use of bars be decided on, the shelves must be \ inch less, both in length and
breadth, and as
face-plates. I
very common forms of chucks. The arrangement In small of the slots is not of importance. a few are form, and chucks, a few are of oblong
They are arranged radially, and are as numerous, and put as close together as possible,
square.
consistently with the
mostly
the bars
come
outside
the
end of the shelf, their lengths for each row must be \\\ inches, 10 inches, 10 inches, and
9 inches, respectively.
will require to
The squares
;
of fretwork
used for securing work directly to these plates, but in, perhaps, the majority of instances, special forms of dogs have to be used. When simple bolts are used, they pass through any convenient holes that happen to be in the casting or forging, or between suitable open
spaces.
be 8 inches broad
to the space
their height
between the shelves as (contrary to what is done with the bars) they stand upon the shelves, and flush with
Their height must, therefore,
be 10 inches, 9 inches, 8| inches, and 8 inches for each shelf, respectively four of each size, of Their breadth [%\ inches) will allow of course.
ready for turning and boring. Two bolts, between arms, and through slots in the plate, taking their bearing on the back of the plate, and against the faces of the washers, d d.
c c, pass
Another way
in
is
shown
their
completely masking
the edges
of
the
a is one of at the right-hand side of Fig. 14. the bolts that hold the flange of the cylinder, b
;
framework, and they must be fixed by screws, driven through the shelves top and bottom (and countersunk), other screws or pegs fastening them to the edges oE the framework, which they
conceal.
on the
stiff
face-plate, c.
There
is
a packing block,
d, of the
same thickness as the flange, b. A is bridged from d to b, and the nut of the bolt, a, is screwed down upon this. Fig. 14 also shows a method by which work may
washer-plate, e,
The remainder
of the
work
is
common
to all
As already pointed
volumes
be secured on a slotted face-plate with dogs, f. Each dog has a screwed tail and nut, a. A pinching screw, h, is tapped into the body of f, The dogs are bolted to press against the work.
and some space is, perforce, wasted, owing to the upper rows of shelves being
shelves,
needlessly wide.
well in methylated
To Remove Vaenish from a Negative, soak spirit, and when soft rub
;
through any holes that happen to come in the positions most convenient, and the pinching screws, h, are adjusted and set against the edges of the work. There are other forms of dogs, and other methods of securing work, but these two are by far the most common and
most useful.
if
necessary, apply
is effected.
more methylated
spirit until
removal
As in previous articles, suppose we now take two or three practical examples, and make them
METAL- TURNING.
the vehicles for our remarks.
sheave.
425
Take an
eccentric
may
exist
This
is
a very
common
piece of work,
the circumference,
required.
but one, moreover, in which nice accuracy is It is usual, though not essentially necessary, to bore the hole before turning the periphery. There is, however, an advantage in
doing
so, as
be
left in
the scantiest places, both for boring I have purposely drawn the
and
for turning.
we
Suppose,
J
More
'
Qi
E -
nil
wm
liui
1 1 1 1
"
'II
'
ITTTTTT
JllllHllll
'/.
i l l .
"
;.'.'
'I.
'.
'.'.'.
".'
\7b7
O
>:
mm
,'.l ,i!
j*
! !
A
16.
;
! | i
I1IHIIIII
c
j
FIG.
FIG. 15
Fl
C.20
then,
we have
step
rough
castings.
The
the
first
is to
mark
or line
it
out.
(It is
shown
The
face of the
turned and bored diameters are centre-popped, as shown, in case of partial effacement of the
After lining out, the sheave will be chucked by the body, using
scribed lines occurring.
casting being
cored hole
centre line
to the
filled
is scribed, and the distance, a, equal throw of the sheave, measured off. This must be so measured that whatever insufficiency
f.
A few
adjustments will have to be made, until the bored hole is brought into its required
426
concentric position.
METAL-TURNING.
The hole
is
then bored,
of the pin,
c, is
common boring
and turned on
The centre
The
the edge, and for good work the face of the sheave should be turned. If so, that portion of
the surface which
line, b,
is
crank shaft the pin, b, on the front fits the hole bored in the sheave and the pin, o, on the back, is either turned to fit just within the hole
;
in front of
untouched for the present, because the line must not be obliterated until the periphery has been turned. The sheave is then re-chucked by the hole, o. There are
left
must be
the
mandrel nose, or it is embraced by the jaws of a jaw chuck. Bolts pass through holes, e, tosecure the chuck to the face-plate, and to hold
the
but the neatest and best is to make use of a special block of metal, consisting of a plate, a,
17, for
reversing
common
and
pin,
A key- way is
cut in this
and a corresponding key- way in the bore of the sheave, and a suitable key secures sheave to chuck. The chuck, being faced on the back, lies truly against the face-plate, and being faced
lies truly on that. Before be as well to face off the back or flat face of the sheave. It will then lay truly upon the face-plate. Adjustment is made by trial and correction of error, until the scribed and poppet line, b, in Fig. 15, runs concentric,
chucking,
will
Speaking generally, the same methods of lining out and turning are applicable to each type. As the faces of the two sheaves are in different planes, it is necessary to stand the sheaves on edge for lining out. Thus Fig. 1 8 shows a pair of sheaves, a, standing on a true table or bed. The point of the scriber or surface gauge, b, being set to the correct height for the centre, its base is slid along on the table, and the scriber-point successively marks the two centre lines, o and d,
parallel with the face of the table
of the crank shaft,
;
c is the centre
and d
is
The
front,
For turning the edge of the sheave, a sheet metal templet, cut to the section of the recess,
which
in the
is
similar to those
shown
in Fig.
17,
f, of the sheaves on back and and e for the hole, are marked vertically at the same setting, from the edge of a set square standing on the table. The centres of the sheaves and of the crank shaft, respectively,
centre lines,
should be used.
straps, there will
reverse direction,
being obtained thus, the turning can be proceeded with nearly as in the case of a single
eccentric.
out of
chucking-plate shown in Fig. 16 is also used r but in order to save time in setting the positions
of the
castings, I
may
adjustment,
(Fig. 19) are cut in the pin, a, at positions corresponding with the respective angles of the
with a bolt passing through the bored hole, and through any convenient slot in the face-plate,
two sheaves.
Now,
is
as the
key-way common
c,
to-
much
is
in the
same way
when
a,
secured.
"Where eccentrics are made in considerable numbers, it is not even usual to line them out. A special chuck, like Fig. 16, is used, having a pin, c, on the back, as well as b in front. The
distant e, d,
be concentric with
situated for turning
diameter
is at c,
will
is
the centre
427
of a hand-cart
If
wheel
is
PRIDAY.
-
you are
making a wheel
-i>
to
POKE-BOY
of course
you
will use
taking care that the new one is a little higher than the old one, say 1 inch or a little over, for
when
tracts
the hoop
is
it
con-
my
a hand-cart
is
papers
upon
wheelwrighting,
especially as the
making
first
when the hoop has cooled down. Wheels are made in two fashions namely,
the
gives the apprentice to do when he can make wheelbarrows successfully, to be followed by making the body of hand-cart, after he has
and coach fashion. In the cart fashion (Fig. 1 ), the iron hooping on the front is near the spokes, so that a nogg can be sawn out to
cart
enable us
to
Fig. 2
For making our wheels, we shall require two kinds of wood, English oak and ash the oak for the nave and spokes, and the ash for the felloes, or rim of wheel. "Wheelwrights generally buy their spokes and felloes in a lot, and stack them thus they are sure of their beiDg well seasoned. The oak for the naves, perhaps as you are aware, is sawn into suitable lengths from the trunk of the oak tree, after it has been felled in the winter. The naves
the wheels.
made
In this you will see the hooping is upon the ends of nave, the nave itself being more elaborate in beading but for real hard work, the cart fashion is, I think, the best, the coach fashion being more
represents the coach fashion.
for light work.
In buying our stuff, we go to an English timber merchant, and say that we want " stuff for making one or a pair of hand-cart wheels."
are generally
Some
The first question he will ask is, " What height of wheel?" We give him the dimensions. He
will very soon
timber dealers generally peel the bark off, bore a hole partly through at each end in the centre, and also paint the ends with red lead, to keep the naves from splitting, through drying too quickly others simply bore a hole through the centre. No nave should be used unless it
;
have
all
our
stuff
ready for us
has been standing twelve months, because it is sure to shrink. If the amateur possesses a lathe, it is quite possible that he may turn the naves but as it requires a strong foot-lathe to support the nave when turning, he had better send it to be turned at a professional wood turners
;
few splits in them, we need one reason for believing that they are thoroughly dry indeed, I have seen them with a large split in them, so large that a piece of oak was obliged to be glued in before going to be turned. It is surprising what a beautiful nave can be turned out of what appeared at first only wood fit for burning. Blemishes, with the exception of one or two cracks, are sought for vainly then when
If the naves have a
is
indeed,
it is
quite a
to
common thing
even
in
at
town to
coach-
we come
to paint,
;
we can putty
up.
Well,
we
send
naves
the turners,
builders where they employ a nnmber of men. I will take it for granted that the amateur
wheeler has a good strong bench, and a kit of tools, of which the following is a list Axe, adze, three planes jack, trial, and smoothing planes, brace and bits, gauge, straight-edge,
:
square, several wood chisels, including a buss, for taking out the corners in mortises ; also draw-knife, spoke-shave, file, scraper, and a couple of hammers, including a heavy or lump
hammer
and suppose they are in the rough, -with the exception of an inch hole running straight through the centre, we take some pieces of ash 2 inches long, and plug each end of nave up next set your compasses 3f inches, and strike a circle upon the two ends of nave. We now place the nave upon the chopping - block, and chop it away roughly to the mark. All naves should be treated this way before being sent to the turners. We now send the naves to be turned, with instructions, which should be
have the naves
;
428
marked upon the nave, coach or cart fashion, Whilst the naves are 7 inches by 8 inches.
being turned, see about dressing off the spokes these will be of cleft oak, and will probably be
;
2-foot
at least,
by
experience.
out, so
;
We
we
also the
Of course, these spokes will be too long for a hand-cart wheel, and we shall have to saw 6ome off, but not until they are driven in the nave for good. We shall require twelve spokes for each wheel. In the first place,
We now set our compasses 3 inches, mark from bottom of spoke, and commence to mark out two curves running into each other
5 inches from the compass mark, or 8 inches from bottom of spoke, where this line of curves end, which must be in the centre, on face of
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG
CART-FASHIONED NAVE SHOWING IRON HOOPING NOGG AND HOW TO 'MORTISE FOR TENONS. FIG. 2. CART-FASHIONED NAVE. FIG. 3. RULE FOR CHOPPING SPOKES. FIG. 4. SPOKE DRESSED. FIGS. 5, SA. FRAME FIXED TO BFNCH WITH WOODEN HOLDFASTS. FIGS. 6, 6A. -SPOKE-BOY. FIG. 7. SPOKE LEANING TOWARDS THE WHEELER. FIG. 8. SHOULDER GAUGE.
I
make
a small
:
rule thus
get
a piece of oak
or boxwood,
FI0.6.
draw a straight line up to end of spoke. other spokes should be marked out like the All this before we commence to dress off this we
spoke,
;
inches long by
i thick; plane it up smooth at one side measure 2 inches long, and saw out at other side measure, and
FIG.
7.
;
;
FIC6.A
do by fixing the end of spoke against a holdfast fastened to the bench we press the other end against our chest thus the spoke is held in
;
saw out \\ inches (Fig. 3). This rule is to use when chopping the spokes down preparatory We now take each spoke, and to planing. commence to chop it into shape upon the
apply our small rule the 2^ chopping - block we have chopped the spoke side, and when down, and it is level with the edge of rule, commence chopping the sides until the front is This small rule will be found \\ thick.
;
a slanting position from our chest to the bench. Some wheelers use a leather pad, and fix it upon the end of spoke whilst they are dressing them
for when the spoke is pressed hard against the chest, it is apt to make the part pressed I have seen wheelers dress against very sore. their spokes off by fixing them in a lathe. When the spoke was in its place, and tightened
out
work at it at one side, turn the the hand, then finish off at the with spoke round that we have the spoke suppose will other.
We
429
connect the frame to the
and
we commence
with the
\ inch bench.
set screws, to
draw-knife, smoothing it with the spokeshave, and finish the spoke off with the file and sandpaper (Fig. 4). This filing and sandpapering gives a spoke that roundness which cannot be obtained by any other means. Up the centre, and at the back of the spoke, it is left A inch square from this square at the back, we round it to the front dress the other side of the spoke just the same; that done, you will notice that each one of the two sides come to a nice edge. S^me wheelers do not dress handcart wheels sharp at the front, but round it only. We will suppose that we have got our spokes dressed out, and before we go on any further, we shall be obliged to make a wheeler's frame this frame is indispensable to a wheeler, and is so easy of construction that the youngest amateur amongst my readers will very soon rig one up; indeed, without such a frame we
; ;
;
Next get four set screws, and screw the swords upon the bench and the half of frame,
not forgetting to put an iron washer under the
head of
sot
screw
for
making
hand-cart
frame should be no less than 3 inches. When the frame is fixed to the bench, scoop the bench out a little at the front, so that the back this gouging out must not of nave will bed in exceed an inch at its deepest place, namely, the centre. We now have to mortise four holes, two on the bench, and two in the frame ; these are 3 inches long by \\ wide, and must be mortised slanting away from the nave, and not exactly the distance between straight with the frame the two mortises must be 6 inches. We next
;
inch thick
they should
fit
slack
when put
in the mortise,
Wheelers, as a
rule,
have a long frame, so that no matter what sort of a wheel they are making, it suits their requirements but if you are only making small wheels, we need not make th.6 frame so long. AVe will suppose that the top of your bench is
;
we
wood
6
feet long,
;
or
inches wide
if
of
ash,
2J inches
of
deal, 3 inches.
need not be particularly square or straight. Next get two legs, the same height from the ground-floor to the top of the bench, these to be 2J inches square also two swords these must be of ash or oak, 20 inches long, 3 inches wide, \\ thick. Get your plane, and skim all these over roughly, just to take the roughness off. We next mortise the frame for the legs, these mortises should be placed 1 foot from each end of frame and be mortised out slanting the top of legs will have to be tenoned and shouldered nicely to fit to the frame the top of leg must be on a level with the top of frame. Next get the centre of frame, and scoop out with the gouge chisel, just so that the front end of a nave could bed in it. We now get the swords, and bore in them several -inch holes 1 inch
;
There are other kinds of frames made, but this I have mentioned is the one most suitable for an amateur (Fig. 5). We now procure our naves, and before we can work at them we must get them hooped or If the wheeler has a smithy close at fretted. hand, he can get the smith to put the frets upon the naves, or he can put a substitute fret, and packitbetween the hoop and the nave with a piece of hooping iron this is very often done in large wheelwrights and coachbuilders' shops, leaving the frets to be put on after the wheel has been put together, and finished off. I have seen the smith put frets upon the naves before the spokes were driven in, and the frets have been as tight years after as the day they were put on. Of course, the frets coming off with the jar of
driven down.
;
in,
occurs only
when they
is
certain,
and that is, you must not attempt to drive in a spoke until the frets are on, or the certain result After the naves will be a nave entirely spoilt. have been hooped, we get our compasses, and divide the nave into twelve equal parts, each compass mark to be an inch from the line which the wood turner has run round upon the nave
this line is to
show us how
it
far
we may bring
the spoke
therefore
is
fix
The
face of the
430
the mortise.
After
we have bored the nave with a f bit, which must be bored when fixed in the wheel-frame, knock the holdfasts down on the nave, and bore with the bit perfectly perpendicular down to a depth
of 1\ inches.
When
one hole
is
bored, insert a
piece of iron
Keep on
to
be 3 inches, we set the cane or whalebone inches from the spoke-boy, at the top of spoke thus, when we have driven our spoke down, the face of spoke at top must only touch the end of the whalebone thus it will be 2 J inches at the top, and 3 inches at the bottom, between the spoke and the spoke-boy this is what is termed dishing the wheel.
it
2-|
; ; ;
done
all
the twelve.
we bored
in
or
the nave
let
this is a piece of
hard wood,
hole
is
\\ inches, and
inch.
A J-inch
Get a with a nice point, and make a single scratch round the two sides and the back
scriber,
;
bored through the stick 2 inches from the end, to fasten a set screw into the nave. About a foot from the top, holes are bored with a gimlet or shell bit inch wide, 1 inch between each other. We now get a piece of whalebone, about 5 inches long, and pare it until the bone fits each hole tightly. If you cannot get whalebone, a piece of split cane will do as a substitute. What we want is something elastic, which when it touches the spoke will bend or give way in passing, and rebound back to its former position. We now screw the spoke-boy on the face of the nave in the centre, not forgetting to
put an iron washer under the head of the set screw. Screw the spoke-boy up tightly, so that
it
the front
is
A lead pencil
make
the
will
have
to
be kept sharpened,
for
if it
gets blunt,
we
are likely to
than the tenon. After we have marked round the spoke, bore a f hole between the mortised line and the hole already bored thus there are now three holes bored
mortise
larger
;
The front hole should be bored straight down, but the back one slanting towards the front a little. We now commence mortising, and we require a special tool that is, a steel chisel with a hollow iron handle,
within the mortise.
filled
with wood
this tool is
therefore, in the
But
if
you do
will
work
;
stiffly
(Fig. 6).
Be careful in putting
;
the other
have
it
to
fit
two
but do not
fit it
1^-inch wide.
When
down the
; ;
front
not a fixture, and will require to be altered " to suit different wheels, according to the " dish
required.
with the J
chisel,
do so in a straight line
also the
Some wheelers wedge their whalebone with a piece of oak. The whalebone is
knocked
knocked
thus,
if
in the spoke-boy
in at the other
they are gently tapped with a hammer, they bind on each other. Before we commence
to mortise
how
and drive our spokes, I will show you In dishing, a wheeler always reckons to give a \ inch to every foot of To be more explicit in my meaning, spoke. place your rule on the top of nave, and measure from the line which the turner has marked with his chisel round the nave; the distance from this line we will suppose to be 3 inches, or more. If
to
dish a wheel.
two sides, using the larger chisel but the back can slope a little towards the front, about inch. The spoke ought to be planed at the tenon, the two sides and the back, but not the front. When we have made a mortise, take care that we do not mortise deeper than 3 inches, or until we come to the hole which has been bored through the nave. In driving the spoke in, it should be driven in 2 inches. The tenon really should fit on the nave 3 inches, or up to the compass line on the face of spoke but when we are only fitting the spokes in, we fit them in the mortise a little at a time to show where the tenon binds, rub some then drive into the paint very thinly on it mortise where the paint has touched, pare off
;
; ;
WHEELS FOR HAND-CART.
with chisel also plane a little off tenon. To get a spoke out of the nave, when it is fast, hit
;
431
always
all
mortise
if it be right, spoke home in the nave until the compass line on the face of spoke just touches the nave. Observe that the spoke-boy must be
inch,
drive the
alternately.
but in large wheels, they get six spokes in their place, then mortise, and drive in the other six between the spokes already in so if you cut all the twelve mortises first, you
;
their spokes
spond.
must number each mortise and tenon to correIn some cart wheels, the spokes will
be put in coach fashion that is, the turner runs two lines upon the nave these are called the inner and outer guide lines. These two lines are run upon nearly all naves, for when in the lathe it is no trouble to run them on. In coach wheels, the spokes are not let into the nave all in a straight line, but are placed alternate one to another thus No. 1 spoke is on a dead level with the outer line, No. 2 comes level with the inner guide line, No. 3 comes to the outer line, and is in a straight line with No. 1, etc. In driving spokes in coach fashion, we drive the then first six level with the inner guide line afterwards mortising the other six out, and fitting the spokes in the last, to come flush to the
; ;
;
pushed out of the way at your left-hand side, as wheelers always work from right to left. "When we have driven in a spoke, we turn the spoke down to our left, and in making the nave turn round, leave the mortise next but one to the spoke. Be sure you do not drive in a spoke next to the one which you have just put in, but leave this space to be mortised after. If, however, a mortise is between the spoke already in and the spoke you are driving, it will be quite
right
;
same
as
is
driven in
test
whalebone does not touch the spoke, you must hold the spoke towards you, pulling very hard with your left hand whilst you strike the top of spoke nearer to the back with the lump hammer if, on the other hand, the spoke is too near you, and will not allow the whalebone to pass, you must push the spoke from you, hitting the top of spoke nearer the front, or on the edge of front. Drive
the spoke.
;
six
of
the
spokes
in
first,
leaving a space
outer
line.
In driving spokes home in the nave, on no account must they be driven in one after the other, or the result will be a nave split up in two or three parts. If the nave has a split, or an opening in the nave, when you get it and this is frequently the case with oak navescontrive, in setting out, for the split to come in or near the centre of mortise, but to have it in the mortise some way. But now, to continue with our wheels these spokes for the hand-cart wheel are to be driven in a straight line, and not "We take one of the spokes, coach fashion.
between two spokes for a mortise, afterwards fitting and driving in our six other spokes. You must be sure that the whalebone in the spokeboy has not shifted, for if it has, the wheel will not be true when finished. In driving the spokes home, do not be afraid of hitting them, for if they do not fill the mortise, and fit tightly, the wheels will be weak. Another
thing,
when
fitting in the
you
hand whilst we drive it home with our lump hammer. "Wheelers have a spoke-axe, so-called, though really somewhat
holding
it
with the
left
have to pare down the end of mortises for if you look down, j'ou will see that the tenons of the other two spokes almost meet. Now, if you drove in the spoke, it is liable therefore, pare the to loosen the other two bottom of tenon by just taking the average off the two sides of tenons. In driving in spokes coach fashion, although the inner spoke is
will
;
hammer but
;
in a
;
little,
inch behind the front spokes, yet the tops of spokes must all be in a line therefore, they
;
push the spoke-boy to the face of spoke if the whalebone just touches the edge of spoke, you
are driving right
;
must
down another
2 inches from the spoke-boy thus you will see that the top of spokes are bending towards the wheeler (Fig. 7). It is
all
be
432
supposed
that
A DRAWING-ROOM
when
0\ ER-MANTEL.
r
wheels dished like this last the hoops gets slack, the wheel straightens, thus keeping the hoop tighter for
longer, for
DRAWING-ROOM OVER-MANTEL
IN IVORY
a longer period
besides,
when
dished, they do
they would
the wheel,
if
straight.
i.e.,
put in
all
we take it out of the pit-frame, we run our spoke-boy over the twelve spokes, to see if they
knock the holdfasts off the nave, and fix the wheel upon a wheeler's trestle, face uj>wards. This trestle you will find in Amateur Work, in "The Wheelbarrow: and How to Make It," Part II., New Series, page 73 (Fig. 18). We now unscrew the spoke-boy, and
are right
;
to
me
desirable,
not
actually
essential,
that
an
if
so,
Amateur Work
wood and
put
is
it
away
This
method
of construction at the
inch wide.
One
J inches to this is to allow it to fit on the a feather edge nave between two spokes. We next measure from the bottom of the shoulder-gauge, or from
flat side
1
;
end
bevelled on the
from
The former
to
many amateurs
;
they
toil
between the spokes; point, and in the centre of gauge fix Get your a sharp-pointed bradawl (Fig. 8). shoulder-gauge, put the bevelled edge between
this
more panels
of household furniture. The work in hand is much wanted in the house, and others are also waiting to be con-
their collection
piece of
it
hand
and
fro,
requiring a similar treatment with an equal expenditure of time. By thus adopting a tedious
process for a given end, most of the pleasure of
thus marking round the sides of spoke. When one side of spoke is scratched, or marked, do the
others exactly the same, taking care to always
relief
have the
fiat side of
side of
spoke. When both sides of the spokes are marked, we get our fine hand-saw, and saw the ends of spokes off, up to the marks we have just b jen gauging. Save the pieces which are sawn off, as they are always handy in the shop for making wedges, some of which we shall require
later on.
can be "turned out" readily at little expense, and which he is assured will be useful when completed. Nothing seems to come up to this
beautiful violet colour is imparted to brasswork by the application of chloride of antimony. First get the work perfectly bright
much as an over-mantel for either drawing-room or dining-room the former is chosen from the preference naturally arising through having actually completed one, and also
requirement so
;
and clean, and heat it over a spirit -lamp so that water will steam off it, then apply the chloride of antimony liquor with a pad. When the metal
has assumed an even colour, polish and protect
because these decorations are more appropriate to that class of room. This over-mantel may bear elaborate carvings in any wood which
fancy
may
dictate, polished or
varnished
it
off in
art
and
can also be
A DRAWING-ROOM OVER-MANTEL.
constructed of the simplest materials, with very
little
433
and formal.
itself,
be
alluded
to.
adapted to the room in which it is to be fixed, and therefore no hard and fast measurements
from the mantel-piece to the cornice the being sufficiently above the over-mantel to prevent the room from appearing "brought down," or "lowered." The frames (b) in which
;
latter
made
in inch
jjllP
L
!
ilPl!
"'"-
c
FIG.
I.
A OVER-MANTEL,
(a) in less in
b
;
FRONT VIEW.
The base
little
width than the length of the mantel-board carrying the wool or other ornamental border on which our over-mantel is ultimately to rest. The width over all the panels ought to be 2 or 3 inches less than the base the height from the mantel-board to the top frieze, or other finish, should be some 6 or 7 inches more than the above width, to prevent it looking too square
;
being rather wider, say 2 inches, to give solidity and variety to the structure. The available area of the whole over-mantel should, as soon as it is ascertained by measuring the room, be carefully planned out in panels. There is usually, and with good effect too, a mirror in
the bottom centre one
by preference of bevelled
vol. in. (n.s.)
but most of the older-fashioned overmantels sold are still further crowded with other
edges;
M M
434
A DRAWING-ROOM OVER-MANTEL.
in fitting, to
These only an
amateur, whilst the final effect is inferior to Lincrusta "Walton. This useful material can
now he
obtained in an endless variety of embossed patterns suitable for every form of decoration. In the illustrated pattern book, lent by Messrs. Godfrey Giles and Co. (late the Lincrusta and General Decorating Company), 19, Old Cavendish Street, Oxford Street, W., will be found designs for filling up panels, either
in
strips
rooms this moulding can be the ordinary moulding supplied for that purpose by the manufacturers of such decorations, and it should be supported by two brackets, one at each end, springing from the stiles which rise from each side of the mirror. The space between these two brackets can be filled up with a piece
;
of
millboard
or
stout
cardboard,
curved to
may
or sheets
either
flat,
with a raised design in the centre. The latter for broad panels are, to the writer's mind, far the best the patterns stand out in bold relief, with much effect, and at a cost which would take
;
such gable or frieze should then be filled in with a treatment similar to the rest, though not
exactly like in detail of pattern.
variety of
effect
further
can easily be produced by allowing the upright stiles on each side of the
panels to pass up for an inch or so beyond the
to
whole area of
numerous
excellent
manner
to the projections
total
one of which will, with good go round the centre mirror. This mirror is better of moderate size, nothing approaching the old pier-glass now mostly found, I believe,
classical patterns,
effect,
passing beyond
pointed out.
width,
as
already
at the sea-side lodging-house. There ought to be decorated panels, one on each side of this mirror, two others similar in size and pattern above, and then a long shelf above all. Two small shelves can with great advantage be fixed between each of the upper and lower panels, and pillars of turned work run from the outer corners of these two lower shelves up to the long upper one. The latter is with better effect cut narrower in the centre, where it " shadows" the
The various corners thus apparent being, of course, at 45 degrees, can be filled in by pieces formed by turning a circular " plaque " or disc of the required size in wood, and sawing
it
Two
plates of brass
must be attached
frieze,
so as Jto be invisible when in situ, by which the whole over-mantel will be secured to
the wall
when
;
finally fixed.
work underneath. The space above the mirror, and between it and this long
centre
shelf,
should also receive another and, of necessity, larger panel, filled in with lincrusta. pleasing
"break"
provided by a long narrow one above the upper shelf, filled in with a 4 or 5 inch width of border
pattern lincrusta.
but a good and varied effect is produced by slightly curving the narrower or border patterns.
construction may not be though amateurs who have carefully read their Amateur Work from the first, with a fair amount of actual practice ought to require but few printed suggestions. The whole piece of furniture is well finished "ivory white" if painted with Aspinall's enamel, two coats at least being applied. I have no interest in any form of treatment but I believe Aspinall's to be a good article It should be applied with the smooth fine flat brush supplied from the "Works, not with a "hog tool," either flat or round the latter form of brush, if at all stumpy or hard, will entirely spoil the
few
details of
inappropriate
The top
let his
a source where
ingenuity,
the amateur
may
exert his
own
and
enamel. On flat, even surfaces the brush recommended will, if the under coat is dry before applying the next, leave a finish
effect of the
fancy in the design "run free," but not " wild." A rectangular projecting canopy of
like
"porcelain."
The American
white,
or
gum
wood,
is
A DRAWING-ROOM OVER-MANTEL.
construction of this interesting piece of furni-
435
stile,
and pro-
is
with rounded ends on either side. The long shelf and the two smaller ones ought to be of
^-inch board, and can, with great improvement
but
soft,
up "
either
way
;
of the grain.
Its great
width
of board,
some 24
the amateur
whilst
the
medium
except
or
for the
home workshop,
ture,
where
nursery
holes
made by
kitchen
vening between the upper and lower shelves this class of finish niay be noticed upon almost
This wood
;
any
over-mantel.
is
vague
idea
only
of
would be used for the frame the panels themselves can be filled in with J-inch wood from any packing-case, and are better not planed up. "When the whole of
the skeleton of the over-mantel
is
panels
ing.
no
be fixed by slips of and the bordering lincrusta pasted round it when dry, the whole can be fixed in its place in the over-mantel. In
to
from the back, a small rebate having been cut in the upper and lower
stiles to receive
all
planning out a work of this kind, the size over must be ascerof space to be covered
from
the
stiles
them.
All parts
The
must be
first
whole
is
constructed
to suit the
panels
is
The
vertical
can
advantageously
are
and paste in equal proportions. "When the paper is dry, the lincrusta must be fixed with the same adhesive preparation, care
being used
to press out all air
more
dovetail
the
the dovetails.
The
by long
be a
occur in spite of
all
precaution,
they can be held down by eery " coffin " tacks, and the fine
final
wood admitting of the screws boring their own way in, with little or no preliminary preThe paper paration by a bradawl or a gimlet.
of the
is to
prevent subse-
The reader
quent irregularities appearing in the lincrusta through shrinkage of the woodwork, a not unlikely contingency, seeing that our piece of work has to rest against a chimney jamb, behind
ings
usually
panels,
etc.
An
construction will,
flues pass up, warmed by over-mantel of this class of in its varying details, provide
when
many agreeable changes of work, and, if persevered with to a successful issue, will be
a constant source of usefulness.
surrounding
stiles,
436
AMATEURS.
By GREOORIE EDOUIN BEY.
III. Power required to
ROBERT COXON.
Folding Sheet presented with
if
this
Part.)
to
HIS
design,
Arrange the Lamps Safe Carrying Capacity of Wires and Cables Edison - Swan Lamps
Switches
will
be found
Cut-outs,
etc.
IN
The woodwork itself is not at all elaborate, and could either be cut by the workman from a 6-inch plank, or ordered cut in the curve from the mills, each pair halved and bolted together with J inch tie-rod and with substantial crosspieces, and provided with elbows, will be found
dynamo
electric
machines, because there were ample instructions already in print on this subject, contained in the two books previously mentioned. I will, therefore, presume that my brother amateurs have
make a steady piece of work. The design for the leather seating I have drawn half full-size, but if desired, an inch or
to
my advice, and have either purchased machine of their choice, or bought the parts of a chosen machine, together with a book
followed
the
telling
them how
might be added two In procuring this, in width to the leather itself. see that you secure a strong and genuine piece of material, but no more than & inch thick. To effectively work it, first damp the leather, and transfer the design with a hard tracer, cut the
for
more
practical purposes
"We have now to work the machine, and get from it, ii we can, enough electric current to Bearing in light up our incandescent lamps.
mind the
it
1 horse power, plus 10 per cent., to develop 746 watts of electric current with the
takes
the depth of
we shall have little difficulty in determining the power needed to drive the machine,
machine,
and for
when we know
the
maximum
output of current
of
obtainable from
it.
The power
six
able-
Again well wet the leather, and work out the raised leaves and scrolls from the back with the rounded edge of a tool or hammer. If a buff leather is used, it can be very effectively improved by darkening, either the background of design or the leaves and conventional
forms themselves, with a coloured preparation,
or dye, or
bodied men is reckoned as being equal to 1 horse power, but an able-bodied man will find in practice that he can only develop his theoretical
share of electric energy from a dynamo machine as a spurt, and it will overtax his powers of
endurance to keep three 10-c.p. lamps up to their proper pitch of brilliance for any length of time,
weak shellac. The workman may also use his own discretion in pressing down the edges, gilding portions, or
working in background with matting tool. When finished, the seating and back may be laced tightly by a good strong cord, or leather lacing, to the wood supports at the two sides of each article, to form a sufficiently yielding and
comfortable seat.
he has to drive the machine. A model steam engine is one of the best motors for driving an electric light dynamo, but it must have a power above that which will be actually required to drive the machine at its full output. Next to this, perhaps, will be a small turbine or water motor; but these are not always available, Small gas engines are not for want of water.
if
suitable, as
the lights
are
very sensitive to
The elbows,
if
desired,
may
be padded in a thinner leather of same colour, and the whole finished with netted fringe.
this will be sure with each impulse of each explosion Those impulses are not so the engine.
and
power
is
437
steady work.
The
an
brilliance
and
when they
dynamo.
15 volts,
we
say,
and another
than the
its
motor.
As the speed
pushing force of the current obtained from the dynamo. An increase of speed in the motor when the lamps are fully alight, will send more current through their filaments than they can safely bear, and
the result will be, in
stances,
will
be
The current obtainable from adynamowill be largely affected by the position and condition
of
its
brushes.
All brush-
many
in-
holders
should
be
so
con-
a sudden breaking of
This being the case,
ment
of
the brushes to
any
we must have the speed of the motor under control, and should be careful to increase the speed gradually until the proper degree of brilliance in the light
the
brushes
will
greatly
This
is
volume of the current obtainable from the machine. The best position is found by actual trial, and is indicated
affect the
known
glance,
to practical
men
at a
by
here to
cuit, coupled
emitted by a piece of iron at welding heat. The gradations of incandescence may be described as red, no appreciable
light light
;
enough
contact.
to
yellow,
a faint yellow
The
is
cream, a whitish-yellow
white, a light agreeable
light
electric
bluish
white,
that
3.
copper wire gauze cut into long strips, and formed into pads. Incandescent electric lamps may be arranged in two dif-
brushes
given
off
CONNECTING
SERIES.
FIG.
ELECTRIC LAMPS
ferent
ways
Some good
4. CONNECTING ELECTRIC LAMPS IN PARALLEL. FIG. 5. CONNECTING ELECTRIC LAMPS IN PARALLEL SERIES.
IN
may be arranged
in series
They when
rate of speed,
the machine is driven at a high and wound with fine wire on its
whilst others will part before this extreme condition of strain is reached.
It
armature, to give a high electro-motive force. This arrangement is shown at Fig. 3, and con-
may be
stated
here that some difference in the lighting power and endurance of lamps may be expected, even
are all obtained from one maker, and are represented as being of the same voltage and candle power. It will also be under-
lamps so linked together by suitable wires as to form one continuous chain. As they then oppose their united resistance to the passage of the current, this must have a high
sists
of
also
be arranged
438
in parallel
wound and
and
All cables and wires must be well insulated, this should be done by professional wirelighting
low potential. This arrangement is shown at Fig. 4, and consists of two main wires bridged by a number of lamps. As each lamp forms a conduit for the current, it follows that a large volume of current must be employed, and as each lamp added lowers the resistance of the circuit, we shall only need a current of low potential to overcome the low resistance. The potential of the current is determined by that found necessary to light the lamps, as expressed by their published voltage. The volume of current needed is found by dividing the potential, or
purposes.
When
thus well
no apprehension of
;
and cables
should not be laid together under one staple. The mains are best held in wooden cleats, well varnished. All joints should be made with the
ends of the wires or cables twisted tightly together, and then soldered, after which they should be coated with some such insulating
substance as Chatterton's compound. When groups of lamps have to be switched
in or out of circuit, the switches should be of massive construction, and made on the double
contact system, to prevent sparking
E.
M.
F.,
by the
total resistance of
P =
combination of the two methods may be employed if thought desirable, and one suggestion
for in
and conse-
doing this is shown at Fig. 5. It consists having two main lines and a number of branches connecting the two mains, the lamps on each branch being connected in series. If the mains are intended to carry a small current at a high potential, as when a number of lamps are connected in series, the wires may be of small gauge, say No. 18 or No. 1.6 B.W.G. but when a large volume of current is to be carried at a low potential, it will be necessary to have mains composed of several small wires twisted together to form a cable. The safe carrying capacity of a No. 18 copper wire is l 8 amperes, or sufficient to light one lamp of high resistance. A No. 16 wire will safely carry 3 2 amperes of current, and may therefore be employed when two lamps are placed in parallel, or when a low resistance lamp is placed in circuit.
-
quent burning of the contacts. In all cases the switches should be of substantial make when
used in
of
electric lighting.
To
afford
some idea
the power required to light incandescent electric lights, I give below, in tabular form, the candle power and voltage of some Edison-
Swan
lt
Amperes.
0-8
1-4
Candle Power.
Volts.
Amperes.
3-7 0-4 2-2 0-7 2-3 0-9 3-5
3
5 25 5 65 10 120
2i 2$
5
5 8
0-45 3-0
16 16 25 25 32
15 160
40
120
40
120
32
50
40
The following
capacities of wires
and cables
No.
Ampereo.
1-8 2-4 3-2 4-0
Strands.
No.
Amp
ie.a.
of
,.
18
17 16 15 14
of
,i
1
1 1
7
7 7 19 19 19 19 19
>.
17 16 15 14
17
174
22-9 28-9
35-6
be noticed that those lamps which take a small volume of current to light them, are those having a high resistance, requiring a corresponding high pressure in volts to force the current through their filaments. When anything like a fairly large installation of electric light is being established, it is advisable to have a " cut out " placed in every
It will
1
1
,. i,
7 7 7
13 20 19
18
60
7-2
.,
8-9
12 8
16 15 14 13
479 624
78-9
lamp
973
1282
These " cut outs " are small circuit. instruments, similar in appearance to switches, but with the bridge made of fusible tin or lead
wire.
A short
is
clipped
by
439
Each
all
way round, and j's inch on the cheek. There must not be the least bit of gap anywhere.
the
If the pieces are not exactly true, fix a trying
push the
Three
long
as
pallet along
it,
to take off a
shaving in
unstrained
the
best
much
is
wind chest
glued so as to leave two fleshy sides outwards when dry, it must be pulled all ways, to break
the joint of the glue, which will
more
pliable.
Both
is
sides are
The
leather
The
the
to
make
close together.
When
of leather 3 J inches wide along the back; 1| inches of it going on to the bevel of the pallet,
AN ORGAN BUILDER.
Soundboard
(continued).
and the remainder on to the leather projecting. The strip must be well rubbed down in the corner where the bevelled end of the wood meets
the leather.
The
as
Out
of tinned
6 gauge,
make
a loop for
each pallet like Fig. 92, and a similar quantity like Fig. 93. With a round hollow punch, inch diameter, cut out some discs of red cloth bore two holes near to each edge, open the pallet eye, and pass the cloth in. It should then
is first trimmed on the sides, and then a sharp knife cuts between every pallet, and through the leather. Never attempt to take off a pallet before the leather is completely cut
The
through.
show
pallet, where the centre back gauge mark mentioned when the pallet pieces were being made. This hole is to take the top end of the spring s, Figs. 78, 79. In the centre of the front gauge mark, bore a hole with a bradawl on the slant, and knock in one of the eyes into each pallet,
Now
Tack a fillet along the front cheek, r\ inch from the end of the bar, and clear the channels of all borings or bits of shaving that may be lodged between the bars. Every atom of loose wood must be taken out otherwise it will fall on to the pallet, and prevent it from shutting quite close. Glue a piece of glasspaper on to a piece of 1 inch stuff, planed quite true. Draw each pallet across a lump of whitening from back to front, lay it quite flat on the glasspaper, and draw it three times along in the same direction. After all are served in this way, glue the leather for 2 inches, put the front of the
;
of organ building
that
is,
bedding the
pallets.
pallet close
up
to the
fillet,
see that
it
lays quite
440
o
FIG. 90
C.CPaJM,
3 FtxZZ
3TJCC
FIO. 98.
SmkZ&W.
Front
\T\
o
FIC
39. Scale Z'-J/t
o
!
o
FIC
100. Scale 2"
P3*=
FIC 94. A. Scale J Jft
93
it
down
at
FIC. 97
Scale
and press
the
tail
with a leather
stick.
Over the tail pieces will be fixed fillets, J inch thick and inch wide. Any number of pieces may be used they are fixed with brads driven partly into the bars, and are placed inch away from the end of the wood, to prevent the pallet springing up when the brads are driven in.
;
J]ft
The piece is shown in Fig. 79 (x). The bottom board must now be
finished.
wide and 2| inches less in length than the soundboard fix it to the under side of the bottom boards with tacks. Run the gauge mark along at 2| inches from the edge, and mark the centres "Where the lines intersect, of the grooves on it. a small hole has to be pierced through the brass sufficiently large to allow the pieces of wire, No.
;
Mark
the centres of
all
them
16 gauge, made like Fig. 93, to pass through. The hole may be made with a very fine bradawl, or
it
a marking point.
On
may be
drilled, if
drill
can be obtained.
mark along 2\
just sufficient
room
it
bore a inch centre-bit hole where the lines cross one another. Get a strip of thin brass 1 J inches
pass through
tight,
be
rattle
441
The
brass
is
shown
in Fig. 96, A.
held in
its
A piece
of stuff,
shaped like a
side
79, the
same length
as
f inch square, and i\ inches long, to start with. The block is left square for \\ inch on one end, then comes a a piece of
stuff
round pin
1 \ inches long, and inch diameter another square piece } inch long, and a round pin f inch diameter, for the piece that is left. A handle must be turned to the shape of Fig. 96, B,
with patches of leather. Strips of leather are glued along the back edge and ends, to keep the
joint perfectly air-tight.
To
inches long, with a \ inch pin on one end. fasten the parts together, put the square
parts of the centre (96, A), into the holes cut in the two arms, and fasten them with a small
Now make
a spring
rail, t,
screw
a piece of thin mahogany, \\ inches wide, on to a piece of pine 2i inches wide, inch thick on one edge, and inch on tho other. Set a
&
put the round part of Fig. 96, A, in between, and put together again. The centre must not be tight at this point. When the handle is fixed,
J inch from the front edge bottom board with four | inch screws, and mark the centres of the grooves on the top side of the pine and the inside of the mahogany. With a dovetail saw, cut down the back piece just outside the square line, holding the saw a little on the slant. The pieces between the saw kerfs will be then knocked out to leave a space, in the front side of the mahogany, sufficiently large to allow a piece of No. 15 wire to pass up and down easily. This is fixed to the inside of the bottom board, and after the strips round the inside have been whitened and rubbed with glasspaper, the bottom board is screwed down in its place. Out of No. 16 hardened brass wire, make for each pallet a spring like Fig. 94 to manage this, a spring-making tool must be constructed,
to
line
it
gauge
mark a
fit
of the pine;
to the
To make the some pieces of wire 14 inches long, straighten them, and turn a hook i inch long on one end fix the spring-maker in the bench screw, put the hook into the staple
the machine
springs,
is
first
cut off
over the piece of wire (see Fig. 97, this keeps the hook in its place), with one hand, hold the
and with the other hand grip the end of the long piece of wire with a pair of pliers. Turn the handle round three times, and finish the stroke with the ends of the arms toward you. The whole number are done in this way,
zontal position,
They are
must be taken
is
as seen in Fig. 97
plete.
Out of 1 J inch hard wood, cut two pieces to finish, 14 inches long and 1 J inch wide screw them together, round the top end, and bore a f inch hole 2 inches from the top, to show like Fig. 95. Finish two pieces 7\ inches long, ^inch thick, shaped like Fig. 96. At If inches from the top end of each, cut a % inch square hole and at the other end of one, bore a hole \ inch diameter. At 4| inches from the centre of the square hole of the other piece, knock in a staple and a piece of straight wire on a level with the top leg of the staple, only ft inch away from it. These are marked in Fig. 97, and are seen marked by the three dots on Fig. 96. Make a
;
Hold them separately between the thumb and two hooks are straight with one another if they are not, twist them
One end
of the spring
is
pallet,
;
the other into the hole in the spring rail the groove cut in the back of the spring rail prevents
the spring from working sideways.
now bent
is
each one
put
through the hole in the brass on the bottom board, and turned over where it was bent, to form a right angle. This piece is connected with the pallet, by passing the J inch end underneath the disc of cloth in the pallet eye, and bent
442
upwards, as seen in Fig. 91. The cloth prevents any rattling, which would necessarily exist if the wires were simply hooked in each other.
stuff \\ inches wide, f inch thick, inch longer than the internal length of the \ wind chest, is put into the mortises made in the
A piece of
number of pipes are required for the front, a larger number of these holes will be made, as
they are to take the end of a metal conveyance tube, to carry the wind off the soundboard to the
position of the pipe.
One end
is
inserted in
and the
slip is
In cases (Fig.
and
2),
It will
need nothing to
fix
it.
The
its
piece of
mahogany
of
however, only seven will be required. It must be remembered that in planting the patterns for
burnt through the leather, the strips well whitened, and screwed quite tight. The work, so far, is left
with
leather,
sized,
holes
wood pipes, much more room is required, and more grooving has to be done. The front upper
board in Fig. 82
is set
All
the grooves must be painted over with size, to cleaning fix any rags that may be left after the
out of the
in,
centre-bit holes.
keep the rack board at a proper distance above the upper board. They may be placed anywhere over a bar, so long as it will not interfere with a groove. Fig. 84 and l, Fig. 78, represent these pillars. They look nicest turned out of hard wood, but they may be made square with a \ inch pin turned on each end. The distance from shoulder to shoulder must be exactly alike on all of them, and the pins must fit tight in the holes bored in the upper boards and rack boards. There is a great tendency, while boring these holes, to lean either one way or another, so I would advise anyone making them, to frequently
alter the position of the boards, otherwise the rack board will not be directly over the upper board the effect of this will be to throw the
;
When
is
upper
smoothed over, the ends and edges are board cleaned off, the under side is planed quite smooth and true, and scored with a V tool, in a similar
way as the top side of the table. The next operation is the laying
of
the
veneers. Look carefully over the boards to make sure that all the holes are bored for each separate
pipe,
and see that each note has its groove, if grooving has to be done. It is most mortifying veneer to find that a pipe has no wind after the
is laid.
The bottom
and be covered,
side of the veneer is well toothed, the top surface of the upper board that is to
veneer is served in like manner. The and a wet, made side top the hot, quite is made it, and another over laid is stuff thick of piece held piece under the upper board, and all are
hard. together with handscrews until the glue is if brads, inch with J The veneers may be fixed
The rack board is laid over the upper board, and a hole bored through the former until the centre of the bit marks itself on the latter the
;
hole
is
then bored in
the
mahogany
off.
to its
The
handscrews are scarce; if the veneer projects beyond the upper board, it is planed level, and down. the top is smoothed over after it is glued The upper board is laid on the bench, with from bruises slips of wood to keep the bottom and scratches, and the rack pins are knocked in
;
made
to
is
The
rack board
is
board
and in a similar way, if the veneer cover the screws, a \ inch hole must be made to correspond with those in the rack board. The grooving of the upper board must now be finished the 5th, 6th, and 7th note on the left,
;
;
rack pins, right down to the top shoulder. block The pipes have now to be fitted in. the distance beis made exactly the length of and tween the rack board and upper board, rack and veneer another to fit between the
443
or 3
veyed
to the
8
inches square
made
bored as near to the size of the pipe as the bits will go smaller, rather than
is
;
and a hole
and fastened at the top over the hole in the wind chest cheek, and at the bottom it is fixed
over the aperture in the lining of the bellows.
larger.
If the hole
all
is
it is
The
will
wind trunk
rubbed away
fills it
The
centre of the patterns pricked on the rack board will give the position of the centre of the pipes. The blocks take the centre of the bits, and prevent them from breaking out the rack board underneath. Take particular pains to fit
be 4 feet to this measurement will be added 3j inches to allow for mitreing, so that in glueing up, the pieces required should be 4 feet The sides will be made out of 5 inches long. 1 inch stuff, and the front and back will be
\ inch thick the pieces are sized inside, and glued and nailed together. After the trunk has
;
The
and
left to
After
are knocked
round.
been planed up, one end is filled in with a piece of 1 inch pine two pieces of birch for collars 1 inch thick, 1 3 inches long, Z\ and 3^ inches wide, respectively, will have two holes cut in them, as shown in Figs. 99 and 100. The space in the former will be 8 inches by 2 inches and the latter 8J inches by 1\ inches. Fig. 99 is glued and screwed to the top end of the trunk, as seen in Fig. 98 ; the front of the trunk
;
and after having rubbed the bottom side of the upper boards with chalk, and picked out every little piece of chip and dust, they are screwed down sufficiently tight to allow
the sliders room to
is
collar.
then cut to correspond with the hole in the The lower end of the trunk must be
mitred, and the end of the short return piece will be rebated to fit tight in the collar (Fig.
100).
move
fairly easy,
and the
its
put into
dry.
place on the top of the gallows rail (a, Fig. 5). Two J inch dowels, 1J inches long, are glued
into each of these rails, leaving \ inch project-
of the mitre.
ing
and strips are put round the mitre, in the corner where the collar meets the trunk, and a piece covers the whole of
the top end.
is
The
piece of leather,
when
dry,
\ inch holes will be bored in the bottom board, and two in the piece fastened on the back end of the wind chest end
Two
cut out of the collars, has the holes burnt through with a hot iron where the screws are
to come,
The trunk
is
next
cheeks
take
they must be so arranged that when the soundboard is in position, the four holes will
;
hole corresponds
ends of the four dowels in such a manner that the front board will be flush with
the front end of the gallows
of the
rail, and the ends soundboard flush with the outsides of the same rails. No other fixing will be required to hold the soundboard in its place the weight on the top will keep it down, and the dowels prevent it from moving either front and back, or
;
the
exactly with that in the wind chest cheek, and the four screws are put in at the bottom. Two inch holes may be bored through the upright
the framework, to allow the screws to Fig. 98 represents through at the bottom. pass the top and bottom ends of the wind trunk. Having proceeded so far, the bellows handle should be moved to ascertain if any wind escapes if any air happens to find an exit, no
stile of
;
sideways.
matter
con-
how
it
at once,
as the place
may be awkward
444
SOME CHAPTERS ON
SIMPLE ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
By
V.
J.
division plate,
it
is
pressed against
force
;
it
by the
little
it
vent
the
mandrel from
I do not give
turning
until it is
of
L.
EWYER.
released.
dimensions
the
Cutting Screws in the Lathe Index PointerStops Best Slide Rest for Ornamental Turning.
it is
WILL
when
and that
is its
adaptability to
usually does.
work
in
In a former number of Amateur Work, there is an article which describes how screws may be cut in an ordinary lathe by using two bands, and a number of different sized pulleys. One
ornamental turning, but we want tools for the That is easily mended. Get a piece of cutters.
a step at the end, f inch
1
to a to
inch
it
round
it,
put
on the slide-rest screw instead of the handle. This plan I used very successfully for some time, but it was rather a bother to keep both bands tight and on making a change in
pulley, placed
;
in the fire
till
spirit-lamp
my lathe, I was glad to relinquish it for another. Now I have pulleys of different sizes, which I
screw to the back of the face-plate
tion-pulleys, to a pulley
;
a band then
on the slide-rest screw. Fig. 32 will explain what I mean. It will be seen that out of one thickness of wood, I cut two pulleys for the back of the face-plate, and four
chisel point;
and Fig.
36,
40,
is
for the
fluting
we
will begin to
work
The band
is
reduced to a minimum, because it is only between two pulleys, not four; and the whole arrangement is very simple and efficacious. Instead of the
slip is
The
by glue or with screws then we on the edges and face, using the sliderest. We then unship the lathe band, put the eccentric cutter into the slide-rest, put the over;
turn
it
man-
would
do,
head band round fly-wheel, direction-pulleys, and cutter, and start. The cutter will revolve very rapidly as the fly-wheel is worked. Then we stop, put a tool in the cutter, draw the slide
out of centre
of about cutter
1
The index pointer (Fig. S3) will not present any great difficulty. Mine is made of a piece of saw steel, of the shape shown, Fig. 34. To
J inch round steel, and to the other the point which has a shank passing through the knob, and rivetted at the end, thus keeping all tight. A stud screwed into the headstock, with a J inch hole horizontally through it (Fig. 35), takes the shank of the pointer, and is so placed that, when the point is in one of the holes of the
is
till
inch in diameter
up
one end
rivetted a
shank
of
round
if not, ; of the cutter is just parallel to the axis of the lathe centres, and then it will be all right:
and see by it is the same depth all we move the slide-rest till the axis
wood
All this can be done without marking the at all; we simply see that the point of
We
round when revolving. then ship the index pointer, and put it at the
it all
445
we then
and cut a
circle,
one point of
If a screw slide a stop like Fig. 41 would do. with a large head is passed through the slot, and threaded into the slide, hy moving the stop, and
which,
of
we assume, corresponds with the centre the wood; we now change the pointer,
it
putting
in the
one
we then
Now a difficulty
the same size
;
the
stop,
;
unless
the
screw
very
tightly
presents itself
1
all
fastened
when
the
pre **.
nG
they would he
division plate
45
rest
is
all the same distance apart (the would regulate that), but there is nothing to prevent our going deeper in one than the other, and that would spoil the uniformity, which is the chief beauty in orna-
small,
of
small
else;
size.
used by anybody
is
Fig. 43
shown owing to
at Fig.
its
mental turning.
to
which the
can be
taken,
and
their
make
of the
made
of plate
slide
we
upper
going in too
to
446
prevent
to
slide
far.
It is not so easy
1 1
it
arrange these stops, especially when the lower has an apron extending over the entire A good plan is to have a pair of stops, saddle. Fig. 45 shows how they are like Fig. 44. slide the by screws, and how they secured to
consists of the usual magnet, wound with silk or cotton-covered wire, a a, the armature, b, the
pillar, c,
the
movement
usual bell.
would
forward
limit
;
the slide,
motion either backward or they should be placed at the side of where the screws for taking up wear
its
The
turning
rest,
best sort of
slide-rest
for ornamental
is that with a sole-plate, like a handextending across the bed, and in this the
two,
being for the lower, which is and one like in this case the parallel, slide Fig. 44, for the top, which is the cross-feed.
;
than this I describe, but they are fitted usually to elaborately ornamented turning lathes, costing, perhaps, hundreds of pounds, and would be
little
good
to turn a
bar of cast
steel or
a rough
to
casting. in
My
be noticed in this class of bell that there no platinum-tipped contact spring in connection with the armature. The magnets are wound in the ordinary manner with insulated wire, as The Electric described in former articles on Bell "; but, instead of one wire passing from the coils to the armature, and another wire passing from the contact post to the terminal, as in the trembling bell, the wire simply passes from the terminal to the one bobbin, round it to the next, and then to the second terminal, as shown in the diagram. The reader will fully understand the arrangement on reference to the figure, the course of the current being shown by the arrows. When the circuit is closed or completed, and the current passes round the magnets, they attract and hold down the armature as long as it conIt will
is
' '
my own
condition,
have
tinues.
such attachments, yet require their lathes more frequently for heavy or general work. I hope
armature
my
We
with
cutters,
overhead, and
In my are quite prepared for work. stops. next paper I hope to describe various patterns which can be done.
We
which is fixed by the regulating screws at d. It will be seen that if a succession of strokes are required, the operator must press the push as often as he wishes to produce a stroke, or, of course, use some mechanical contrivance to
its position,
back to
that in the
on the vibrating bell, the manner of adjusting the armature in order to procure the
IT.
this
when
the armature
is
attracted forward
is in
by
hammer-head
contact
with the
shall describe
bell, the
and there
IN the present
the
classes
of
article
we
of
construction
bells:
the
following
single-
(1)
The
stroke bell;
(3) the
(2)
the
Jansen bell; (4) arrangement for ringing one bell from several places, several bells from one place, etc. (5) pushes and switches;
;
etc.
armature hitting the cores of the magnets. In adjusting the single-stroke bell, the reverse is the case. When the armature touches the cores of the magnets, the hammer-head should be slightly separated from the bell. On consideration, the reason will
The
be
clear.
If a cur-
city
The
coils,
and
attracts the
-147
were adopted, the hammer would hit the bell, and remain on it till the current ceased and allowed the armature to spring back, thus preventing
all
impossible to work two ordinary vibrating bells on the same line at the same time, for this can
consequently,
be done by a different arrangement of the bell and line wire, the diagram of which the writer, by the kind permission of the Editor of the
English Mechanic, gives in Fig. 12.
in the
The current
coils,
thump.
his
As
it is,
however,
when
the armature
there, the
drawn to the magnets, and held ammer-head strikes the bell, owing to the elasticity
manner before
The armature,
b,
ifrom+fvU
is
of loaH
hattaj.
of
the
hammer
jMurltmteani}
<
o\--neie
cores,
lever,
$?$
}>aitery,olsowZFt
spring, e,
with
screw,
regulating
f,
mag-
B,
the
the line
The
wire at
venient
when used
;
for signalling to
it
is
also
more
bell,
vibrating
where two
work
The next
class of bell
is
ment
by which, when the push is temporarily pressed down, and the circuit comment,
pleted, another wire is put in
make and
;
thus
the two
provided,
bells
work
in conformity,
of course,
and a continuous current supwhich rings until the machinery is replied to the bell,
similar in size.
adjusted.
On
the
other
hand,
it
be
found that if two vibrating bells are put on the same circuit by the ordinary single line method, they]will not work in anything approaching a satisfactory manner. Instead of a clear, decided ring from either bell, there will simply be a weak fluttering by both. This is owing to the impossibility of getting the make and break operation of each bell to occur at the same time. Therefore, if the reader wishes two bells to ring together on the same line, constructed in the ordinary manner, he had better put a vibrating and a single stroke together. It must not, however, be [assumed that it is
the
arrangement
to
on
reference
Fig.
13.
The
the
proceeds
from
terminal
FIG.
]J.
the
ture, b, pillar,
to terminal
this,
marked
l.
In doing
b,
at the
end of which
is
a small catch,
e,
upon which
b,
On
the armature,
falls
against the
The
i.
tension
is
regulated
by by
The
current proceeds
448
F1C
FIC.I2.
18
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
SINGLE-STROKE BELL; FIG. II. D, REGULATING SCREW, THE
TWO VIBRATING
;
A A, MAGNET COILS; B, ARMATURE; C, STOP PILLAR CONTAINING REGULATING SCREW; ARROWS SHOW THE COURSE OF THE CURRENT. FIG. 12. ARRANGEMENT FOR WORKING BELLS AT SAME TIME A A, MAGNET COILS D, REGULATING SCREW B, ARMATURE C, PILLAR E, SPRING FOR DIVERTING CURRENT F, REGULATING SCREW H, CONNECTION G, WIRE FOR SHORT CIRCUITING BELL WITH LINE WIRE TO 3 BELL. FIG. 13. ONE FORM OF THE CONTINUOUS RINGING BELL A A, MAGNET COILS; B, ARMATURE C, STOP PILLAR D, REGULATING SCREW E, CATCH ON ARMATURE F, LEVER FOR PUTTING IN ACTION CONTINUOUS RINGING ARRANGEMENT G, POSITION OF LEVER WHEN ARMATURE IS ATTRACTED FORWARD H, CONTACT POST; I, ADJUSTABLE TENSION SPRING; J, WIRE TO TIME POLE FOR CONTINUOUS RINGING. FIG. 14. ANOTHER FORM OF THE CONTINUOUS RINGING BELL A A, RELAY MAGNET B, ARMATURE C, CONTACT PILLAR OF BELL MAGNET D, REGULATING SCREW OF SAME E, CATCH ON RELAY MAGNET F, LEVER FOR SWITCHING CURRENT G, POSITION OF LEVER WHEN FALLEN H, CONTACT PILLAR OF RELAY I, ADJUSTABLE SPRING J, RETURN WIRE K, CORD OR ROPE PULL. FIG. 15. METHOD OF ADJUSTING LEVER E, ARMATURE F, LEVER FOR SWITCHING CURRENT G, POSITION INTO WHICH IT FALLS H, CONTACT POST I, SPRING WITH SCREW FOR REGULATING TENSION K, PUSH WITH SPRING FOR REPLACING F. FIG. 16. PLAN OF ARRANGEMENT TO WORK LOCAL BATTERY A, COIL OF
RELAY MAGNET B, ARMATURE C, INSULATED ADJUSTABLE SCREW D, ADJUSTABLE SCREW IN CONNECTION WITH LOCAL BATTERY E, ARMATURE FRAME IN CONNECTION WITH BELL F, LOCAL BELL G, LOCAL BATTERY. ON SWITCH OR PUSH COMPLETING CIRCUIT THE CURRENT PROCEEDS IN DIRECTION OF ARROW ALONG LINE WIRE THROUGH RELAY COIL, BRINGING ARMATURE B IN CONTACT WITH D, SO COMPLETING LOCAL CIRCUIT WHEN BELL RINGS. FIG. 17. DIAGRAM OF RELAY MAGNET A, MAGNET AND COILS B, ARMATURE C, INSULATED ADJUSTING SCREW D, ADJUSTING SCREW FOR MAKING CONTACT; E, INSULATED PILLAR; F, IRON FRAME. JANSEN BELL; FIG. 18. A, MAGNET AND COILS B, ARMATURE C, MAGNET CORE D D, POLE PIECES F, DISC OF E, PIVOT OF ARMATURE NON-CONDUCTING SUBSTANCE G, INSULATOR FOR MAGNET CORE H, NUT FOR FIXING MAGNET J, POINT WHERE END OF COIL IS AFFIXED TO ARMATURE SPRING K, POINT OF CONTACT ARMATURE WITH SPRING L, ARMATURE SPRING M, HAMMER ROD N OTHER END OF COIL AFFIXED TO BELL.
;
;
449
way
j,
by
to the z or
local
Again, the relay can be very advantageously employed to work a local battery, where a current would, of itself, not have power, owing to distance, to
work the
line
bell satisfactorily.
Fig. 16
Another form of continuous ringing bell is given in Fig. 14. In this case the current starts from the + pole or carbon plate, proceeds by the arrow, passes through the coils, A A, of the first magnets, and back again to the line terminal, or
L,
ment
of push,
local
battery,
and
electric bell.
is
wound with
insulated
way
and ultimately
doing
b, b,
to the
ordinary
electric
is
Instead
of
two
In
this,
the
coils,
a a,
attract
e, of
the
the
magnets, one
as there
is
used,
that being
sufficient,
armature,
not so
armature,
spring,
it
i,
f.
from
it
and
to rest
the
wire
The
course,
connected with
is
the bell.
contact
spring
to
d,
thence
of
The
action is this
whea
made by
through
c to h,
z.
along f and
J,
to the
- pole
the battery,
When
bell,
it is
up
into its
E.
original
resting
on
the
catch,
To do
will
be seen, on reference to
b, at E, is
through the push, along the line wire (which may be of great length), through the relay magnet, to the earth. The core of the relay magnet becomes magnetised, draws down the armature, b, which comes in contact with d, and
completes the local
returns to
If
circuit.
lever, f,
then
made
to correspond
thus,
when
it rises, it
presses
its way past the end of the armature, and becomes locked. This form of continuous ringing bell is on the "relay" principle, so called from the upper magnet, a a, which is really an automatic switch. The action of the upper magnet is a single
the main
pole.
course.
wound
lever, e, is
of the
Here,
instead
pull
and marked k, the manner of resetting f, which is represented as having fallen into its position at G, is by pressing the spring, k, which readjusts the lever, f, by the leg, L, in the position from which it has fallen into the position at f. The spring, k, on removing the finger, returns to the position shown in the diagram. The spring, I, is tightened or slackened by the milled screw to which it is fastened.
shown
in Fig. 4,
be very weak, but the armature of the relay, being very delicately constructed, and the only work required being to form contact between the armature and the contact point, no great
strength of magnet
contact
is
is
required.
The moment
made, however delicately, the local batteries, which are probably powerful, are put into action, and ring the electric bell, which may be correspondingly large. The next class of bell to be noticed is the "Jansenbell." This is an electric bell of apeculiar form. It will be seen, on referring to Fig. 8, that vol. in. (u.s.) N N
450
there
it
bell, or
gong, but
is
common
side
house
be
fixed
to
the
The
and shape
ends of the magnet core, boring the pole pieces, and fitting them with a corresponding thread in
the ordinary way, and screwing on to the magnet
core, or
A hole is bored in
silk or cotton
by
soldering,
if
preferred.
or \ inch in diameter
this is
bushed with
The
coil, a, is
made
in the
same manner, as
The method
of
winding
appears as shown at
a.
get a piece of wood, about f inch thick, and of a diameter a little less than the inside
Now
upper diameter of the bell. Bore a hole through it large enough to admit the magnet screw, which is fixed in, or made on the magnet, This will act as an insulator in keeping the c. magnet from touching the bell, as well as holding the armature spring, l, in position, the spring being attached to the wooden disc at J by a screw. Both the disc and the wooden bush should be soaked in hot melted paraffin wax. The disc can be made to fit on the bobbin,
as
be noticed that the magnet, coils, has only one, the pole pieces taking the place of the two legs in the ordinary form of magnet. The armature, b, is made of the same class of material as described in a former article, about ^ or f inch flat iron, A or A inch thick. It can be procured from dealers in iron for Id. a foot. Bend it in the form of the letter U. A hole must be bored in the middle, large enough, when pivoted, as shown at e in Fig. 18, to allow free play for the armature, b, to move between its position, as pressing against k when at rest, and its position close to the pole piece, which briDgs
It will, however,
shown
in the figure.
it
Through the
hole
is
o,
a small
pin
would be as well to mention, for the benefit of anyonj who has never used, or possibly seen, paraffin wax, that it should be applied very warm, so that when any such wooden article is dipped into it, the wax may be able the more readily to penetrate it, and leave no thick coating on the surface when dry. If the wax should be merely warmish, and so soft but thick, it makes dirtier and clumsier work.
Perhaps
drilled
drilled
upon which the armature is pivoted. The hammer- rod, m, is soldered to or screwed
into the
The
spring, l,
is
made
of a piece of
tempered
The magnet is, say, a tV core, or, in fact, the same as in the tables of measurement given in a former article on " The Electric Bell." It is filed
springy brass, say about f inch broad at the upper part, where it is screwed to the disc, f, at
down f
the
is
disc, f, and the insulating bobbin at o. It then tapped, and a thread put on it with a nut
fit,
shown at h, by which it is fixed in its The shoulder at the coil end of the thread presses against the wooden disc, f, and keeps the magnet in position. The pole pieces, d and d, can be made of well
to
as
form shown in the figure, platinum at k, which platinum point acts upon another platinum point, or, better still, plate, soldered on the armature. Often an adjusting screw, platinum
j.
It is bent in the
is
and
tipped
with
place.
tipped,
tension,
is
which
The
coils are
attached to the
r\ or
A MEDICINE CUPBOARD.
then being passed between f and the bell crown, good contact being the important point to be
house,
is
451
for rubbish.
The other end of the coil is connected up by being passed under the screw of the
observed.
little
armature spring at
j.
:
into the present design; but if it should not be quite pleasing to any one of my critics, I must
The course of the current now is along the line to the hook or bracket, along the bell, down to the coil, then to the spring, J, along l to k, up armature, b, magnet core, c, and out at h. The
arrows will assist in tracing the course. This bell can be hung from a bracket, as
plead the following excuse, that to introduce many novelties, either in arrangement or form,
always necessitates more work, and certainly greater skill and through this series of papers 1 have done my utmost to keep back thoughts
;
shown in the
being along the bracket, as above. It is claimed for this bell that it has a more comely appearance and better sound than the ordinary gong shape at the same time, owing to there being only one coil, less wire is
;
fair length,
should be, comparatively speaking, of only a and not one that, when taken up,
would be likely
readers
who wish
little
for a
many
things will
will
themselves,
which possibly
to the work.
add
to the appearance of
Another
remark, also
name
Now,
to those
A MEDICINE CUPBOARD.
BEING THE, EIGHTH OF A SERIES DEALING WITH ARTICLES OF
repeated,
it is
be important. It is set out your work full size. It is to be regretted that no portion of our work can be given full size, but the most important
HOUSEHOLD
By ED.
C.
UTILITY.
ROE,
shown full size and if the intending maker will only provide himself with a large piece of paper or, better still, a board, and set
sections are
;
W^tfVThY
:
III
thMMn
same
bow was made to the readers of Amateur TVork, Illustrated, through the medium of an article by title the
first
from
the
engravings
herewith),
full
size,
which heads this paper. I have it was favourably received by my audience, and it is my earnest hope that the same audience, in company with the many new arrivals, will view, with an appreciative eye, the piece of furniture which the engravas that
Somehow or other, a piece of furniture such as we are about to discuss always seems a welboth to the makers and users; certainly it is a most useful thing, for, although we call it a medicine cupboard, it seldom fails to prove the abode of a multitude of small
object,
objects.
and the worker, sooner or later, will bless the hour when he I know what many set out his job full size. but, will say, " I am not well up in drawing " really, it only requires a very elementary knowledge of drawing in order to set out a simple Another job sufficiently clear to work from. thing, bear in mind a good old proverb, "Nothing venture, nothing have " and, to be sure, it holds good in this case.
half the battle will be over,
; ;
let
me
proceed to
if
come
work
thing
in hand.
is to
The
two
first
make
two
the framework,
top, bottom,
and two
to out,
vertical partitions.
proverb.
Alas
it
is
and one
in a
of sides
objection to
many
such cupboards,
etc.,
2 feet 3 inches.
The top
be notched on to
452
A MEDICINE CUPBOARD.
9,
and
receive the
The bottom
section of stiles,
will
have to be dealt with carefully, as it will be advisable not to cut the supporting brackets away from the sides, neither the side shelves, which project 3| inches (see front elevation,
Fig.
1).
It is
back the size of the rebate and and rails of back panelling, is given at Fig. 4. It will be noticed, by looking at Fig. 5, that the bottom is wider than the sides to the extent of f inch, which will make the total width 7 inches, against 6^ inches of the side. The moulding on the edge will return on
;
describe,
and
also to
the ends.
3
'
The
shelves and
Xad'
opiate
Fl
partitions
now
to
should a division
C
roughly,
the
side
be
thought
ad-
cupboard,
the
cut out of
&
fc^-Xa
is
fixed
as
sug-
from the
shelf
Do
f\
gested, a mullion
jVjEDIGiN'E
GUPB0/\HD
in of
the
the
middle
panelling
BrE.C H"
of
back will be
the
usual
necessary.
Two
FIC.7. Zlsae
manner
that
is to say,
were being treated similarly to the top ; bear in mind, also, that the housings do not runjjtkrough but stop short, as indicated in Fig. 8. There is no occasion to treat the top so, as the housing will be covered by the cornice. "We have, before knocking the frame together
finally, to
between the doors this piece must now be prepared. The extreme width is 3 inches taking 2^-inch rebates out each side will leave 2 inches the middle to be dealt with, as shown (Fig. 7) portion may be sunk and moulded with a router, in fact, it lends as suggested, or may be carved A short itself to many methods of treatment. tenon, say J inch long each end, will^prove ample fixing, if let into the shelves.
; ; ;
A POCKET MEDICAL A section of
at Fig.
4.
COIL.
more may be necessary
;
stiles
is
and
rails for
back
is
given
desirable,
It
it
Very
little
Do
or,
be added.
are
termed,
the
lock
stiles,
to
The
cornice
may now be
shown
taken in hand
;
distinguish
stiles,
opposite, or
hanging
full-size section is
stuff, 1 J
(Fig. 3)
a piece of
inches
by
are wider than the hanging stiles by the width of the rebate, which is \ inch (Fig. 7),
stiles 1|
make
sufficient.
To those
stuff,
who would be
the
show how
;
it
\\ inches wide. The bottom rail will be 2 inches, and the top \\ inches. For the section of
job to do
it,
or,
but at any
a far more
moulding
very
this
moulding is
rate,
when there
certainly
will not
The
cornice is mitred
3).
round
top,
If several blocks
to
and comparatively easy to work. For hanging the doors, we shall require two pairs 1 J inch brass pressed butts. The remaining fastenings must be chosen as individual taste
effective,
dictates.
The bottom
and it is against this that the largest fret will be fixed. The most economical way will be to cut this fret in two portions, joining in the middle. Space precludes my giving full-size curves, but they can be approximately ascertained from the
scale elevations.
Concerning the drawers, I must again abstain from dealing with them at length, the subject having been dealt with so often. Do not omit to make the backs of the drawers narrower by \ inch than the sides otherwise that is, pro;
fit
is
made
the
air inside
pushing the drawers Let the face of drawer fronts stand back in. this will, of course, be arranged when iV inch
some
difficulty in
And
so the
end of
my
and
also
to
the
(Fig. 1).
will
be seen
but stands away from it about \ inch. There are two reasons for treating these brackets so
is to give a little more character to the work, and the other to afford a blind to the plate for suspending, which must be fixed on the edge of the side behind the bracket, to hang the cupboard up by. If the bracket is fitted to the top and side neatly, and a screw put through from the top of the cupboard, just inside the cornice, we shall be able to remove the bracket previous to hanging up the cupboard, and after so doing, to refix. This method will answer very well, provided it is hard wood, polished, that we have to deal with but in the event of the work being painted, a different means must be adopted. The plates could then be fixed so as to nail from the recess a couple of plates should be sufficient, but if the fixing is not all that is
; and for the cupboard will be the subject, but the use will be much different, but not any the less useful.
one
A POCKET MEDICAL
By
COIL.
ALLEN
TRAYNOR.
and
is
an arrangement which
In our preliminary
of this interrup-
effect
file
in the circuit,
and
1)
by drawing a wire along 'the file. The corresponding arrangement in a coil is called the " make and break," and consists of a spring, either of steel or brass, to which is attached a
454
piece of soft iron,
A POCKET MEDICAL
which is attracted by the core body of the coil when the
that
it is
COIL.
a spring of
steel or brass carrying a
is
attracted
is
1
by the
core
current
is
flowing.
The spring
its
is
usually
pillar
when
the current
passing.
The
mounted on a
pillar of brass.
A second
spring
is
shown
at Fig. 9.
It is
carries a screw
having
J inch broad, a small hole being bored at the Whether made of steel or brass, it end, a. must have plenty of spring the thinnest sheet;
most preferable. If, after being cut to shape, it is desired to improve the springiness, this may be done by filing it down at the end a.
brass
is
At the opposite
is
end, a
ment is shown
namely,
the
at Fig. 8,
insulator
or
on which the "make and break " is fixed. It is made out of a small
piece of vulcanite, ebonite, or
screwed.
The
The
rivets or
iron
is
of
boxwood, J inch
thick,
and shaped
its
as
so as to lose its
magr
the
insulating
netism
whenever
is
will
be im-
PICS.
current
broken; and
-&
should
there
be
any
dS^
FIG. 13
Five holes, abode, have to be made in it for email screws, two of them, a J, being countersunk. The insulator has
to
in a slow fire
hot,
red-
and allowed
to cool
gradually.
of course,
FlC.li
This must,
fore
it is
be fixed
to the top of
spring.
of
The
position
the
boxwood
means
end,
which
it,
the
spring,
when
The
is
by
screws
fixing
which
b.
it,
of
jv).b
the insulator.
]o)a
FIG. 10.
;
to
through a
Before
now
lay the
if
core.
Through the
boxwood
end, as
of the insulator
screw passes into the hole, e, of the insulator. We now require } inch of No. 20 platinum
end must be
a mark
flush.
tool, through the holes a b, so that on the boxwood end beneath. At these marks holes have to be bored to receive the screws, which pass through a b, and keep the
is left
sharp-pointed
which is to be used to furnish the spring with a platinum button, and the screw which presses against it with a platinum point. With
wire,
regard to the former, we must be certain as to the exact spot on which to place the button. A small piece of firm sheet-brass, shaped as shown
in Fig. 10, carries the set-screw,
of the screw a hole is
s.
insulator in
its
position.
At the point
drilling,
The next part of the arrangement is the " make and break." It has been already stated
formed by
and One-
A POCKET MEDICAL
half of the above length of platinum wire
-will
COIL.
455
cell
are placed.
Two
be
is
sufficient.
The
piece of
if
brass
is
placed
2 inches long,
and
by small
b) of
screws,
holes (a
the
can fit into the channel, c, of the case. The ends should be cut evenly, and made perfectly square. The thickness of the india-rubber should
not exceed inch, as we need possible inside the tube.
all
insulator.
The
the space
so that
its
The exact
is
point of
One
a b
c
of the colls is
is
shown
at Fig.
1 1
where
marked,
d
(I)
and there in the spring a small hole is pierced, and into it the remaining half of the platinum wire is fixed by rivetting flat. The coil may now be placed in its position in the channel, a (Fig. 2), of the case. It should
pass into
' '
lug
piece.
A short length of
to
copper wire
is
soldered
to the lug,
make
After being amalgamated and set on edge for a short time to drain, the cylinder is to be passed
into the middle of the tube,
fitting well.
it easily without much pressure, the make and break being uppermost. If the slid'
where
it is
held by
'
ing tube
is
it
should
be taken off, and the coil passed gently into the channel till its end touches the bottom. Care has to be taken not to break the ends of the wire which were left free for connection. When
the coil
is
prepare a small rod of hard wood, about \ inch diameter and 1 J inch long. This rod (r r) is to be covered with silver-foil, the foil fitting tightly round it. About 2 inches
of silver wire is to
Now
the
foil to
in position,
copper
is
used, galvanic
it
made
in the side of
up between
less
and the
of chloride of
part of the insulator (where the spring of the " make and break " is fixed) should be over the
division of the case
silver
Measure
off as
much stout blotting-paper as shall go round the The blotting-paper is to silver-foil on the rod.
be spread with the paste of chloride of silver, and then rolled round the foil with the chloride A strip of muslin or other thin next the foil. material is now rolled round the outside, and neatly fastened with a few turns of thread. These, then, are the two elements in our chloride zinc for the positive, and chloride of silver cells
:
be driven through the outside of the case into one of the wooden ends of the coil. In making the hole, be careful that the tool used passes into the wooden end, and not into the wire. "With the small screw driven well home, the coil will be firm in its place. The sliding tube may now be passed through the hole at the bottom of the channel, and over the core, where it remains. The battery which works the coil now claims As it is to occupy the channel (o) of attention. the case, it must be small in bulk, besides being effective in regard to strength and constancy.
the silver-
Two
now
pre-
shown
fit
at p p.
They
are to be of a
diameter to
we can have which possesses these qualities is that known as the chloride of silver battery. Two cells will be
The only
reliable battery
made
of
;
good cork.
r,
in each
central hole
is
the rod, r
are held.
cell together, first
making
a small quantity of chloride of silver, some silver-foil (the very thinnest possible), sheet-zinc, sal-ammoniac, and indiarubber tubing. The last-named is for the conof the,m are
having
length of connecting wire sticking well out of the tube. At whichever end we have the zinc wire emerging, we must have the silver wire at
the opposite end, as shown in the figure.
the
Having
456
inserted the zinc,
A POCKET MEDICAL
we now insert the bottom
almost touches the
plug,
COIL.
the metallic state, and this
chloride back to
rr is next placed inside the zinc cylinder, its end passing into the central hole of the plug. "We now require some good sealing-wax, with which to fill up the tube from p to k. This must be done carefully, or the cell will give trouble by
pressing
it
in
till it
zinc,
can be reconverted by the usual process into chloride, and used again in charging the cells. Before placing the battery in its position, a square piece of brass, which carries a movable
arm
is
and
c.
This
leaking.
The wax has to come up to the rim of the tube, and there made quite level before it is allowed to set. While the wax is setting, we
shown
at Fig. 12.
The brass
is
of such a size
that
it fits
the cut.
may prepare the charging solution with a little sal-ammoniac and water. The solution does not
require to be saturated;
taste
salt,
it
tapped for a small screw, a, which passes through the arm. The arm is a small strip of sheetIt has to brass, 1 inch long and J inch broad.
if
strong enough to
cell is
move
do.
much
on the screw. inch take two pieces of brass rod, diameter and It's inches long, and with a small
freely
We
now
as will fill the tube from P to p ', thus covering the zinc cylinder. The second plug, p is now
',
e passes through
The use
now
be obvious they are to prevent the elements from touching each other in the cell, and so completing the circuit there.
make a hole as shown at a, Fig. 13. These have to be driven into the holes, d and e, of the case (Fig. 2) the ends which have not been drilled being at that side of the case on which are the cuts between the channels. The drilled ends should be flush with the opposite side of
drill
;
Over the plug, p', and rim of the tube, wax has to be melted as before. This done, the cell is complete, and
the case.
up
to the
battery in
its
position, the
in the
It
cell is to
be
built.
here be mentioned that the chief difficulty in the making of chloride of silver cells as
described,
is
may
together by soldering the wire from the zinc element of one cell to the wire from the silver
When
to
prevent them
is
grip with the sides of the tubes, the liquid is sure to leak. But we need not be confined to sealing-wax for the purpose of preventing this
should be end-on, and close together. They are now passed into the channel in the case, and in doing so the free wire of the lower cell is to
made near
be passed through the small hole which was the bottom of the channel. From the
any kind of pitch [or cement which sets hard will answer quite as well, and may, indeed, be a
great deal better than inferior sealing-wax.
make
a groove in
enough
d.
to contain the
which
With regard
called
to the
and also on the quantity of chloride of silver used in its conto ,'perform,
upon
From
this
The writer has made cells which, with intermittent work, would last from six months to one year; put to a constant job, they would become exhausted in six hours. The secret of constancy is to use plenty of
struction.
opening where the insulator rests. Lay one of the free wires from the coil in it, and solder the end of the wire also to the brass pin at d. The other wire from the coil is now connected by
at its end,
and connecting
chloride of
for.
is
of
room Too much cannot be employed if the battery to be kept in working order for any length time. There is little or no waste in the
silver
as
much
as there
is
it to one of the small screws of the brass piece which bridges the insulator. From the brass
pin at
to the
edge of the
cell
converts the
Solder a short length of copper wire to the pin, lay the wire in the groove, and connect
opening.
COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
its
457
COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
By R. A. It. BENNETT, B.A. (Oxon). Author of " Hints on Decorating the Houseby Photography."
j
wire
is
already connected.
From the brass which carries the arm or switch make another groove to the edge of the opening.
Solder a short length of copper wire to the brass,
colour photography,
to the screw
which
|||1
by M. Gabrielle Lipp-
end of the battery wire is still left for connection. This end is to be soldered to a small round-headed brass tact, which can be driven It may be placed anyinto the top of the ease. where in the top of the case where the switch can reach it and make good metallic contact with it. On turning the switch on to the head
free
fj^g^JI man, member of the Institut de France> and Professor of Physics at the Sorbonne, and explained by him at the meeting of the Academy of Sciences a short time ago, has created great interest, both in the minds of those addicted to scientific pursuits, and those who are interested in the results, though not, perhaps, in the means whereby they are obtained. Various descriptions have appeared in the daily and
We
use.
11
"
make
taken
off
the
coil,
and which
not in
weekly papers, ever since the Paris correspondent of the Daily News announced the result
of his interview with Professor Lippman himself. The accounts are, however, for the most part, more or less vague, owing to the tendency of the unscientific mind to grasp at advances in scientific details with too great eagerness, and
when
Two
are required,
inch,
this
and the diameter of the other less than by about rV inch. By this arrangement
when
thereby to
make
One end
wrong
direction,
and
is
what has
by soldering over it a square piece of sheet-brass, which has afterwards to be turned or filed down. Through the
to be closed
What, Lippman
then,
;
the discovery
made by M.
Two
are
now
of
At each
and how much nearer to the coveted goal has he brought us ? Before answering this, it is necessary, first, to make up our minds as to where we were before
end
they shall
fit
new idea took shape suddenly in M. Lippman's brain, and was followed by investigations It is resulting in a fair measure of success. incorrect to talk of the new process as if nothing
the
like
it
d and
is
shock
rods,
which pass through the case now be seen that when a wanted, the end of each wire is inserted
]
3)
e.
It will
differs radically
much
as
the chemical
and the switch turned on to make contact with the brass button on the top of the case. When the coil is not in use, care has to be taken
circuit
by
falling
on
to the button.
it
Nothing new, however, has been found out what M. Lippman has discovered is a method of making use of previously wellknown facts in an entirely different way. Considering that we have heard a good deal
:
case if the grooves in which the wires are placed are filled in with melted paraffin wax, and the whole covered with any suitable material, such as
will
add
" world being " startled something were by the new process, as if it beyond our wildest dreams, it is rather surprising to find that as far back as the year
lately about the scientific
leather cloth.
Patter
by name
458
COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
sidered likely to lead to a revolution in the
former methods
graphs.
of
producing
is
colour
photoIt is
on a sensitive surface of silver chloride. Fox-Talbot and Daguerre noticed that they sometimes obtained traces of colour in their
processes,
This process
dependent on changes
and Herschel went a step further he found that "the spectrum impressed upon a paper spread with the chloride of silver is often
beautifully tinted, giving,
under discussion, and plates prepared by the process have not yet been prepared sufficiently sensitive for actual work in the camera it is, however, possible, that they may be at no very
;
when the sunshine has been favourable, a range of colours very nearly corresponding with the natural hues of
the prismatic spectrum."
distant period.
It is
amusing
the
which
is
always
In "Eesearches on Light," which was published in 1844, we find that Eobert Hunt was also a pioneer in this direction, and was to a certain extent rewarded with success. He used paper which was prepared by washing it with chloride of barium and nitrate of silver, and allowing it to darken while wet until it became of a chocolate colour, when it was placed under a frame containing a red, a yellow, a green, and a blue glass. It then behaved itself in the following way " After a week's exposure
:
what a number of
inventors
have rashly taken out patents for processes which entirely fell to the ground when practically tested, after their money had been expended in protecting themselves from imitators, who would never have had a chance of following on their track Some, alas have not been characterised by that freedom from deception which ought to
! !
be the
truth.
to diffused light
it
under the yellow glass, a dark green under the green, and a light olive under the blue."
The name
of Becquerel is one
which
is
noted
in connection with experiments in this direction. In 1848, Mr. Edward Becquerel succeeded in
producing coloured pictures, which went by the name of chromophotos, or heliochromes. They were obtained by depositing chloride of silver in a
state of great purity
of electrolysis.
One
said to have been preserved for a time even in bright sunlight, but the process, as a whole, fell through, owing to the impossibility of a satis-
of the genuine searcher after been possible for some time to produce tinted photographs on specially prepared paper exposed under negatives which had been coloured ly hand, and this offered a lucrative field for the operations of impostors. But some have gone considerably further than that, one of the most astonishing feats, for coolness of deception, being that of an individual who assumed a clerical title "though he had it not," and whose performance must be in the memory of many of our older readers. This gentleman professed to have written a book containing full and elaborate instructions how photographs were to be taken in all the colours of nature, and by a process easily However, before the book was carried out.
It has
mark
printed, he
of
Becquerel'e
his
circumstances,
obtain
considerable
method was afterwards carried out, with modifications, by Niepce the younger. Some of the
pictures thus produced were exhibited at the Exhibition held in London in 1862, and they did really represent the natural colours of the
objects they portrayed, but they faded in a few
number
lication.
pub-
was to be in immense
quantities, the " rev." gentleman, of course, pocketing the proceeds, in addition to the subOn looking at the book, it was scriptions.
A short time ago, Messrs. Bevan, Cross, and Green made a discovery which has been con-
found to be so involved and abstruse, that no one could comprehend what the process was, or how it was to be accomplished, as his
facts differed
with
scientific detail.
COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
M. Lippman's
discovery differs from all pre-
459
ceding efforts in the same direction, inasmuch as no attempt is made to find a new sensitive
substance on which to receive the image, an
ordinary dry plate being used, without
any
is
is
concerned.
as "inter-
otner transparent and inert substance in a uniform manner, and without forming grain' which can be seen under a microscope. If there is any grain,' it should be of such a size as to be unnoticeable in comparison with the wave length of light. The employment of the coarse
'
'
The
scientific
is
facts
emulsions of
cluded."
every-day use
is
therefore ex-
founded
the
phenomenon known
ference."
"beats" by two simple tones in acoustics, which are in some cases found to alternately weaken and strengthen each other, producing a
loud sound variating with comparative silence.
The rationale of this process evolved by M. Lippman is as follows Supposing that instead of a continuous wave of light across a sensitive plate, a broken line or "chain" produced by
:
interference
is
In the case of
waves meeting each other in opposite directions, or under a very small angle, overlap each other, and just as in the
light, the
on the plate will be precipitated in layers approaching to the thickness of the film of a
soap-bubble, instead of being thrown
film.
a succession of
dark and
is
light
intervals
is
produced.
itself,
Each wave
continuous taken by
negative
but when combined together they give the effect of a broken line, or " chain." It is by the interference of waves of light reflected from
the outer and inner surfaces of the thin film of
we
By
film,
would cause
a red wave
which
composed, that the gorgeous colours of the soap-bubble are caused, or those which make their appearance on the surface of water on
it is
On
which a drop or two of oil of turpentine has been allowed to fall. AT. Lippman then proposed to obtain on a photographic plate the image of the spectrum in its proper colours, and that this image should be capable of being fixed, so as to bear exposure
to full sunlight
cause rather thicker layers, which, coinciding with the length of a wave of light, will only
at the
back
of mercury,
without alteration.
He
claims
which
is
to
and the fixing agents, now used in photography, by simply modifying the physical conditions of
the experiment."
or, in M. Lippman's own words, " The plate, in a dry state, is placed in a frame, into which one pours mercury this mercury forms a reflecting surface in contact with the
outwards,
The
sensitive film.
The exposure,
the development,
if
success of
method of obtaining colour photographs are two. One is the continuity of the sensitive film, and the other is the presence of a reflecting surface in contact with, and behind this film. By " continuity," he explains that he means "the absence of 'grain,'" and
says "
of
it is
and the
one wished
is
the result
is
different
when the
plate
finished
and one
dried, of the
Now
comes
most important parts of the discovery, viz., that "the cliche obtained is negative when looked through that is to say, each colour is represented by its complementary." This is
;
valuable, as
it
if
the right
460
COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
the fact that
method of preparing the printing paper of the future can be hit on, these negative colours will print the original tints upon it. It is possible to obtain a positive of the colours, and to make This is to these show "with great brilliancy." be done by developing the image, and sometimes intensifying it, " so that the photograph shall be of a light colour which is obtained, as is well known, by the use of acid solutions. The plate is fixed with hyposulphite of soda, and is then carefully washed." The colours are then said to be unaffected by the most intense
;
when
through the film arrive at the reflecting surface, they are sent back again, causing interference
with other rays that are incident to the plate, and are not merely absorbed by the black background, which is usually put behind the plate. A word, in conclusion, to those who are smitten by the new process, and wish to experiOne can hardly expect to be ment with it. successful at once in photographing the colours
of
flowers,
etc.,
of
the
electric light.
All this is very satisfactory as far as it goes, but we are a long way from the desired end as yet, though undoubtedly an immense stride has been
system has not yet done. Many are, however, experimenting in that direction, hoping to obtain the glory of being the first to succeed
made
The only
results
and it is by no means unlikely that some plodding experimenter may accidentally hit on the very thing required. A simple method of making the trough to
hold the mercury has been given by a correspondent in the columns of a contemporary, a Take a dry plate of the few weeks ago.
required brand, and an old negative glass the same size cut a piece of cardboard the size of
;
and
of
a painted window.
it
colours,
remains to
mixed
colours,
as
One
;
difficulty
has to be overcome,
make
which
is
owing
while
blue
of
a frame the sides of which are about \ inch wide in the side which is to be the top, cut a piece about \ inch out. This frame of cardboard is now to be covered with some cement which can
;
knowledge with respect to isochromatic plates will probably be of use here, for by the use of suitable substances which have an orthochromatic effect, we may be able to render the exposure to blue more, and that to red less, and
thus to restore actinic equilibrium.
When
thus formed is filled with mercury, by simply pouring it in at the opening left at the top. The plate is now to be placed in the dark slide,
The
is
sensitive
film
taking care not to incline it to either side, and The greatest exposed in the ordinary way. care, of course, will have to be taken to keep
the dark slide upright, or a shower of mercury
inside
filled
is
Tuapenot's system
he developes with carbonate of ammonia with a little pyrogallic acid, and for a fixing bath he uses a fifteen per cent, solution of hypo. These details were given by M. Ch.
G-ravier in the
The hole might be it will be the result. up with another piece of card, if the slide likely to get roughly handled. "When exposed,
is
the plate
Paris."
This gentleman
of opinion that
if
the mercury can be replaced by a silver plate, or by a highly polished metal plate, " one might
be able to colour a transparent and sensitive film, and one which could be stripped after the
impression of light."
you are successful, the colours will appear when dry. The pyrogallic acid developer has been generally used at present, but it seems to me that hydroquinone or eikonogen, from their power of giving an excessively fine deposit, would be still more likely to produce
and
if
The whole
on
DISSOLVING SPECTRES.
461
DISSOLVING SPECTRES.
By PROFESSOR
L.
MARISS1AUX.
Ipfg^ISSOLVING spectres have been, in the scientific market for about a century, r N
;
and are spoken of in the memoirs of Stephen Gaspard Eobertson, an Englishman (at least, by the look of his name), living, I believe,
JOrUfet*,^
in Liege,
who was
the
first initiator
of dissolving
some old English legends, and also, I think, some chapters from Walter Scott's works. The whole thing was presented to the audience in a very striking manner. Professor Pepper first began by relating the chief particulars of some romance in which a young laird was, of course, in love with a fair young heiress, whom he lost in some way or other, and who appeared to him in some dreadful circumstances illustrated by
Professor Pepper's tableau.
views.
transformed by a certain Robin, who, some time ago, thought of obtaining the presentment
of a living being
known
everywhere, but
my fellow
by means
of a transparent
.Robin, in his
time,
was very much sought for on the Continent, on account of the strangeness attending his conjuring performances, which astonished the public, who were unable to discover his different tricks. The transparent glass was used (some of my London readers can remember it) by Prof. Pepper, at the Polytechnic, about fifteen years ago. He used to choose as a text for his dramas
know how it's done ; and as it is possible they have seen nothing of the kind, I think the description will be welcome.
The
illusion of dissolving spectres consists in
which are transformed under the The illusion is produced by placing on a stage an object which is seen directly by the spectators, and another outside that is to be seen by reflection, this being obtained
divers objects
462
DISSOLVING SPECTRES.
by a vase which supports The conjuror takes it, and shows it to the spectators, puts it back, and makes it disappear, and a glass globe full of red fishes
turn,
in darkness.
by gradually lighting one and putting the other "When the disposition of the stage does not allow the object to be seen by reflec-
and
is
replaced
the bouquet.
under it, it may be placed in the side scenes but in this case the glass must be vertical, and
tion
Tou have
alternately
all
these
That
is
the principle of
dissolving spectres; and, to be clearer still, I am going to give my readers a description of the trick such as it is generally set up.
Fig.
front
how
it
the stage
is
the curtain
pulled up.
recess,
somewhat deep
whose
the lookers-on
that
is to say,
^
L
fig.*.
^
L
head is replaced by the living one. The glass,. a b, would appear to prevent the conjuror, standing in front of the stage, taking the head to show it to the audience but, in fact, it does not, for the glass does not necessarily go down to the stage floor, as it might be believed from the diagram, but its lower edge comes about on the same level with the tablet on which the In the case of the trick head, p, is placed. being performed on a larger scale, it would be easy to draw back the glass, and put it in a c
;
with some
dull
black
stuff,
there
appears,
all directions,
a woman's head,
made
of
plaster
or
pasteboard,
which
the
conjuror takes out and hands over to the lookerson, to fully ascrtain the reality
of its existence.
The examination
being done, it is put back in its by little it brightens up, and gets animated
eyes take
smiles,
life,
going to take one of the the darkness of the trapezium, a d m n, would prevent its removal from being seen. In the case of an immovable glass, the head and nosegay, or whatever it is, are passed under its lower edge when taken out
the conjuror
is
when
objects
placed
in
the
and put in again. In short, the plaster head is seen directly across the glass, a b, and the real head, which
takes
its place, is
mouth
seen by
reflection
the plaster
and in half a minute the plaster head has, so to speak, disappeared, to be replaced by a lovely living woman's head that moves eyelids and lips, and even speaks to the audience. Then, by a reversed operation, this living head gets discoloured, and becomes again a plaster head, which transforms itself into a death's head, out of which seems to issue a bouquet of flowers. The lugubrious death's head disappears in its
head comes back, and a death's head is put in place of the living one, and being lighted up, in its turn, is seen at the point where the plaster head was the latter, not being lighted, is no longer visible. Nothing is easier than to remove the plaster head from the inside of the stage, and
;
put instead a bouquet, without the spectators perceiving it in any way, because the said
bouquet
is
only visible
when
directly lighted.
463
All these experiments are easily small scale. All that is wanted is a simple cardboard box about ten inches in length and
Nothing will be mentioned depending for upon my former paper, so that nonperusers will not be placed in a doubtful
effect
position.
height,
feet deep, in
is
which an
placed at an angle of
is
about seven
The
inside is covered
and with the help of two incandescent lamps worked by rheostats to send the light in gradually, I got pretty good results. Of course,
I could not with this toy obtain the transformations of a head, but I could ripen a fruit,
To many the hints will doubtless seem as old as the hills, but to those who read them for the first time they will be equally fresh for the older and more experienced members of the fraternity must not forget that all must be beginners at some time or other, and therefore, if my remarks are lacking in freshness, to pardon me, and seek to console
;
themselves in the belief that many less experienced persons will be benefited thereby.
The glue-pot
is
make
come out of it, change the colour of the latter's hair, and so on. As to the use of
doll
it
indispens-
Never thin glue out with cold water, always use hot, and see that it I have known is clean and free from grease. the work of hours spoiled by the careless
thinning out of glue.
some
it is
useful in case of
necessary.
The lamps, l l
an emergency
successful
when
to find dirty
all
water is a conducive to
them a
plaster
little
at the
same
time,
the
head should also be moulded on that of the person who is meant to give it life, so as to facilitate the superposition of the two images.
and cleanly workmanship. A capital may be made by beating the end of a piece of cane until the fibres separate, and thus form a brush. Never leave the brush in the glue and after using, wash it in clean hot
glue-brush
;
water.
When jointing
spoon to
fill
ROE,
City
can be made of a piece of pine a sketch and Cut out middle section are given at Fig. 1. part first, then trim to shape outside do not
;
trouble to
make
it
very thin
also
make
the
OilE time
ago,
it
was
my
privilege to
and during the said ramble gave a varied assortment of hints conducive to success, and as preventatives of failure. Not by any means was the list of hints then exhausted,
neither can the following paper be conclusive
for a mechanic's education,
it
tongue in bottom as thick as possible, consistent with easy passage in plough groove. A spoon can be made similar in shape out of zinc, and is a very good article. By the way, glue and shoemakers' paste mixed is j ust the thing for
mounting
baize, or
skiver (the
is
said, is
never
many
useful hints
picked up or
future date.
adopted;
list
so
will
may
with
Let us leave the glue-pot, and glance for a at planes. Keep these well oiled with linseed oil. When using, keep the bottom greased a small pot on the bench is a con-
moment
be added to at a
made
as
shown in
464
Fig.
bit
;
The middle
is
the lid
means
and screw.
filled
The sketch
;
half full-size.
Keep
with tallow
is
little oil
tallow
grease,
making
easier to use.
Should a bench screw work stiffly, a mixture of milk and blacklead will be found a splendid lubricant the same remark applies to hand screws. Keep your spirit-level in a case nothing is
; ;
and
it
all
parts liable
being a splendid preparation for application to all tools, as a preventive from rust, and keep them in a baize bag made for their In the case of moulding planes, if occupation. not kept in a tool-box, keep in a box made Such a system of storing is similar to Fig. 3.
tidy,
more easily made simply take a piece of wood the same size as level but tapering slightly, and form round with glue and paper a case of
:
sufficient
fingers
rubber
when glasspapering flat surfaces it is easily made by mounting a piece of cork on a piece of hard wood a good
;
seem waste
of
time,
less
glasspaper
the
wedge and
the stock
;
iron out of
they should
suffi-
be knocked back
ciently to clear.
Rubbers
for
mould-
r^j
FIG. 6
It is a
FI0.3.
made
of
A
with
brace
of
hints
to
pine
is
a good rubber
reference
may be
welcome.
save
Nothing
board, say
this small
many
is for
chisel handles
Never
it
hit the
wood
let
by 2 or 3 feet long, and with a piece of hard into the face near one end (see Fig. 5),
it
that purpose.
of tenon or dovetail saws, a
allowing
saw blade, with a saw kerf in centre, will protect the teeth from damage. The kerf should be made with a finer saw than that for which it is intended, and then the saw for which it is to be used forced through with the teeth at bottom of
kerf
;
is to
The saw must always be inserted from either end, and not pushed on. Fig. 4 will give an idea of what is meant. The handles of carving chisels or gouges
in position.
should vary as
much
as
possible,
both
in
termed a tonguing board, from its principal use ; it is used against the bench stop one end, and fixed to the other by a bench It is knife, another very handy accessory. simply a piece of steel about 1 \ inches by 1 inch, sharpened slightly one edge. A piece of old table-knife blade makes a capital one. In use it is driven with a hammer into the bench top and the end of the material to be held, the other end of the stuff being kept fixed by the teeth in bench stop. Do not allow the bench knife to lay about anywhere on the bench it is never to be found if such a practice is permitted, and,
such a board
;
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
moreover,
465
may
cause
damage
it.
to
tools
acci-
Should any stop-chamfering require executing, a template two pieces of thin stuff, glued or screwed together at right angles (see Fig. 6), with the end cut to angle required, or, in the case of ornamental chamfer stops, cut to pattern. It is a simple matter, hut affords means of speedy and neat execution of the stops, and may be used as a guide for the chisel, as
use as
hanging rudders, to survive when we see around us so that is good, and of modern introduction, give place to improvement necessitated by the rapid onward march of the age; it would also be difficult to understand the supineness with which boating-men have remained content with, and have reposed confidence in, so primitive and
of
much
unreliable
a device,
a better
plan
Mr. C. Nugent Nixon hit upon the bright idea of employing a rod to operate in a partially open tube, thereby introducing a mode of attachment much more secure and perfect than the old
style.
The
the
old
system
an ordinary mitre template, or simply to mark by. Just one more little article, namely, a settingout knife, a most valuable tool, easily made from an old table-knife, ground to an angle and
sharpened (see Fig.
lines
7).
must have been made apparent to many, and there can be but very few persons who ever concerned themselves in boating matters to any extent, and did not at some time or
when
pencil lines to
work
to.
another perhaps be considered dry chapter but I trust that such a bad quality will be considered even more than balanced by the practical facts stated therein, and that they will prove of use to those to whom the following motto may apply
Thus we
to
"
A little
help
is
worth a
lot of pity."
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By THE EDITOR.
art,
whether they
supplies a
fund of information which will be interesting to all who have watched the Btrides with which photography has in our time progressed, and the beautiful plates interspersed throughout the work particularly some lunar photographs taken by the Brothers Henry, Paris, and reproduced by the Meisenbach engraving process demonstrate the wonders the sun artist has up to the present achieved
moment when
cor-
and proper control was absolutely necessary to the boat's safety. Such persons will cast aside a method so unsafe, and will hasten to procure rudders furnished with Mr. Nugent Nixon's fittings, which cannot become detached by untoward means when passing over shallows
or other points of difficulty.
lift
The agencies
;
that usually
means
relief
The
price
a rudder out of its fastenings, do not affect it when furnished with these fittings it may rise in the slide, but
being securely held,
of the book
two
shillings,
which
it
considering the
embellished.
Safety
way
in
which
the irregularity
is
Rudder
Nixon.
A.
Mr.
C.
Nugent
as the illustrations
appended clearly
Chapman &
features
W.
It is not easy to
inspect
it, I will just mention that it Naval Exhibition, Sepping's Gallery, No.
VOL.
III.
(n.S.)
466
The Amateur.
The July part of this magazine has reached me, and possesses the same useful features
Finsbury, London, E.G.)
that distinguished
heets, one
its predecessors. It contains two folding showing working drawings for a cuckoo clockcase ; the other contains designs for mirror frames. These sheets are both very handsome, and the letter-press
resolution to do well in the face of all difficulty, and any one of them is sufficient evidence to controvert depreciatory opinion. Every one of the prints I have looked at help to satisfy me that of all the arts and crafts that amateurs delight to employ their skill in, photography is the favourite, and also is the one in which they eic el. There may be some reason
in the fact that the manual labour it demands is scarcely worth consideration, and the reward of a man's effort is not delayed for any
description
is
for this
AMATEUR WORK
there-
PRIZE SCHEME.
XVI.
is
approaches as nearly to an ideal leisure occupation as the most exacting amateur might Many of the competitors have not been imagine.
fore
it
but
have also
that
is
called
RULES.
(1). All articles sent in for
to say,
(2).
(3).
and by an amateur is meant a workman who does not earn money by the particular class of work in which he competes. All articles in this competition must be received not later than August 29th, carriage paid, and addressed The Editor or Amateur Work, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C. Each article must bear the name and address of the competitor, and the number of the competition for which he enters.
of bond fide
amateurs
aim has been in an artistic direction, insomuch that they have thrown sentiment into their work, and others have even made nights into the realms of composition, and have introduced characteristics that a connoisseur expects to find in a good picture. XIII. A Prize of One Guinea for the best Specimen of Portrait Photography. In the Portrait Class
their
but
(4).
(5).
(6).
return of their articles If (except MS. ) must enclose an addressed label. the article is to be returned by parcel post, the label must be fully stamped if by rail, the name of the Railway Co. should be stated on the label. Every care will be taken, but the Editor does not hold himself responsible for articles sent in. The prize may be withheld if, in any competition, less than three competitors enter. The decision of the Editor shall be final.
;
no doubt about the best one, so far is it in advance of its compeers. It is the portrait of a lady seated by a small table, with the corner of a room and a small window for background she is shown in the act of writing, and the light from the window
there
;
in
shadow
would conceive.
picture,
I therefore
award
to
Mr. G.
Firth, Oakleigb
RESULT OF COMPETITIONS.
XIII. AND XIV.
I
.
best
House, Wakefield, the prize of One Guinea for the Portrait taken by Photography and the
;
following
competitors,
Messrs.
L.
Lowther,
W.
once heard it advanced that amateurs practise photography simply because they find in it a pursuit entailing no particular outlay, and one easy to
follow with success.
that
XIV.
The
assertion
also implied
amateurs penetrate the mysteries of the photographic art only so far as the point where simplicity ends and difficulty steps in, but beyond that point they seldom venture, because consideration of the probable cost that their researches would result in deters them, and the prospect of complica-
Mingaud, W. B. Dart, A. H. Bishop, and J. Chamberlain, are highly commended. A Prize of One Guinea for the best Specimen of Landscape Photography. Taking the Landscape Class, I find in it such an array of excellence that had I three or four prizes to bestow instead of only one, I could find more than that number of competitors worthy to receive the awards but as that was not to be thought of, I gave careful consideration to each one separately, and to the excellent ones collectively, and at length selected the scene in Bruges, sent in by Mr. S. W. Brewis, 65, Russell
work brings
affrights them.
has been
my
me
manifest unlimited
Moss Side, Manchester, for its sharpness of and general careful manipulation, as worthy to receive the prize of One Guinea for the best Landscape taken by Photography. The prints sent in by Messrs. E. W. Sampsou, T. W. Binner, Launcelot Gubbin, W. E. Boyce, A. H. Budge, H. Judson, and F. J. Shaw, are highly commended
Street,
detail
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
The
solution
will
467
lay between
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
OPEX TO AZL READERS.
Silvering Mirrors.
The
"A
an outline of the
the author of the series of papers on " The Reflecting Telescope," which
appeared in ToL V. of Amateur Work (Old Series). The quantities are for a speculum 6 inches in diameter, and 1
flat plates of iron or wood, and weight them, scrape smooth, and from its water bath, may be im- polish with Trent sand and oil, or mersed the piuk colour will shortly rottenstone and oil. Comb teeth are change to brown, the change continuing cut with a saw having two blades, and from brown to black, whilst a heavy scraped or filed smooth. The fire-clay film of silver will be thrown up and in England is a dark blue or black deposited upon the under side of the shale, obtained from the coal measures glass. The glass is then taken out and it is ground to a powder, sifted, and Brick rinsed with water, and allowed to dry, mixed with water in a pug mill. until which time the silver film must clay is of various qualities and colours, The whole is from dark blue to light yellow; it not be disturbed. finished by a coat of varnish to protect should be free from lime or stones, which cauBe the bricks to crack in the silvering.
turn
pinkish
lifted
colour,
and
the
plate,
being
am
afraid
larger
impracticable to
place, the plate to
Amateur Work,
Illustrated.
burning
:
if
" I
N.Z.) writes
will be brittle
contains too
1
and rinsed with clean water. Three Illustrate!!, now, and am not dissolutions must then be prepared. (1.) appointed with it. My last job is a A reducing solution composed of 840 friend's piano, which I was tempted to grains of loaf sugar dissolved in 300 try and repair by some of the articles
grains of distilled water, with 39 grains
of
nitric
;
of the
New
Series of
Amateur Work,
the
acid
and
25
alcohol,
and
distilled
sufficient to
make 25 ounces
(2.)
ounces
of
distilled
water.
(3.)
found by experiment. There is a sandy loam called " Windsor" loam, found near that town, which makes excellent fire-bricks. Flower-pot clay may be have not quite books I your in made from ordinary clay, by washing finished with it, but am not at all the clay to remove impurities, and doubtful of getting it fixed up very running it through a fine sieve in a is surprising what one It creditably. liquid state into a pit this, when the can do when he tries, and your books water evaporates, is used, but may are calculated to inspire one to try require an admixture to render it less
;
almost
anything,
especially
in
the
1
The
brittle,
1
or to
make
it
harder.
If
you
done,
suspend the glass plate in a bath of distilled water until the silvering
solution
is
it is.
expressions of
may
be shale, containing
mineral
prepared.
Proceed thus
of silvering
ammonia
;
into the
main silver solution until the precipitate which forms disappears then add the
potash solution, when a precipitate will again be formed, which must be
removed by adding more ammoDia, variety of subjects treated of therein drop by drop, in just sufficient quantity
to restore transparency to the solution.
and am glad that the siderable time, then scraped clean, and mention have been cut up with a saw for turning. E. sufficient to guide you in the job of Enamel Faint. As repairing you have undertaken. " Albion " writes " I have a hobby, you say, one is all unaware of the anything in an amateur doing when can be accomplished with work that to do as much as I can by my the assistance of a book like Amateur way, which for years your in fact, the own hands, and Work, Illustrated
your
letter,
articles
you
valuable
assistant
<*rief
;
paper
'
has
been
my
chief
Now
silver
by drops,
by.
rod able to arrange the matter of rubber whole assumes a clear saffron Ed.] stamps. tint, which tint is essential to perfect success; but if by error a little too Preparation of Horns, etc.
over my enamel paints,' when I make them, they dry evenly and glossy, I do not know how the but 'tacky.'
enamels in the market are made, but I I boil the oil will describe my mode.
with
sufficient
driers
until
it
is
con-
much
added, as manifested by a turbid appearance, this turbidity must be allowed to settle, and the clear
silver be
H. Aubrey Husband, M.D. ( Wawo- siderably ncsa, Manitoba). The horns aresteeped cool, then
thicker
than
treacle
when making
in cold
my
fluid drawn off. The solution is now or till the core can be withdrawn then and tinting to any desired shade. poured into a silvering vessel large cut off the solid tips, and boil for an Now I would very much like if you or enough to allow of the immersion of hour in water; then, while hot, hold my of your numerous readers could the plate, and distilled water added. them in the clear flame of a wood fire, ;ive me a wrinkle in this matter, of Now add lour fluid drachms of and when sufficiently soft, slit with a how to boil oil like this to dry without the reducing solutiou, and thoroughly strong knife, and open out flat, using tack, or where I could procure informaBtir the whole with a glass rod. two pairs of pincers to hold the horn tion on the subject of enamels."
468
Model Cutter.
" Amateur" sends the following
:
"
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
" I
Electrical Matters.
"
(1.)
Razor Stone.
414.
Desperate Amateur,"
If the engine
is
p.
Amateur (Buralem)
writes:
"Will
run for any you kindly tell an old subscriber where stone, boat which Electron gave working length of time, the boiler should not be he can get a good razor drawings for, and a nicer boat I never less than 10 inches diameter, and 20 and about the price, through your saw. It looked very easy to make, but inches long. Amateurs in Council.' Unless the engine is very " Amateur (Burslem).'' If you wish required a deal of patience and a strongly made, it will not run for very moderate amount of skill to make it long. You will also require a governor, to buy a good razor stone, communicate so as to be fit to be shown at an or some means of keeping it at one with Messrs. Buck, Uolborn Viaduct, exhibition. If anyone else has built it, uniform speed. (2.) You can obtain who will supply you, and give you the I am sure they were, as I was, surprised small dynamos from Mr. Bouron, information you seek, as regards price when they saw the block of timber I electrician, 93, Praed Street, W., from also. See, in reply to another amateur, 15s. upwards. left it a week to season." (3.) A smaller dynamo my remarks respecting the too general
write to say that I have finished the
' '
to
'
"Amateur."
a
I
who
wish
each
of the
will
not
charge
(4.)
the
correspondents
write to
me
under
satisfactorily.
Mark
nom
E.
Modelling In Clay.
more
distinctive they will then stand a chance of having their communication attended to without the delay that other;
Amateur
this Vol.
" A. E. Peake." A series of papers on " Modelling in Clay, and Casting in Plaster of Paris," appeared in
publishers,
Amateur
Work
for June,
1890,
you
have there
am
upon the model boat was crowned with success, but if you experienced " governor," why difficulty over the did you not make inquiry through 'Amateurs in Council"? Ed.]
albumenised papers.
A Printer.
etc.
and
much more
in
the cheaper
of Stationers' Hall Court, London, E.C., In fact, you work dealing with the above you study the publish a
and
carefully
follow
;
the
subject;
price,
lis.
6d.,
is,
material,
process as described in
them
is
then the
may
rather expen-
when
success
placed so
and I doubt whether you could obtain a small quantity. Write or apply to a respectable stationer in the wholesale trade, as one more likely to keep it in stock. Messrs Tanner and
sive,
who
exhaust and
London, E.C., will give you detailed information as regards size, weight,
Hat and Umbrella Stand. bring up to date the subject of photo" Q. C. Yoisey" writes that he has by describing apparatus, graphic reproduced some designs which ap- explicitly the construction of bellows peared in Amateur Work, utilising and dark slides, and the "Barnett" them as panels for a hat and umbrella single slide also. I do not allow,
stand.
He
also
says
that
he
has
and
price
purchase to
or more.
if
however, that we are far behind in the matter of photography, nor that our
instructions
am much
I his
clear
gratified.
am
sorry,
however, that
pleasure
inspecting
enough
for an
business
precluded
have
felt
the
in
Reflecting Telescope.
cessfully.
It is gratifying, however, to
"E. G.
your
S.
Ward."
should
forwarded
know
letter to
of the articles
subject.
work but I trust the stand received honours that all such meritorious work
;
leserves.
Tinsmith's Blocking
Emery Wheel.
"E.
the
J.
not quite commend itself to my ideas as an advantage, for ready money Hammer. always empowers a purchaser to buy Amateur Work, the cheapest market, and you can
in
Smith."
will
note the
article
Your
will
on
our obtain goods at the larger co-operative page 364 there is a stores, and thus enjoy the privilege of a communication from our respected
vigilance.
Illustrated,
an error escaped
On
above
subject
have
early
discount.
publication.
above
article.
The
drawings
really
Fire C.
Hand Grenades,
fire
H.
Pkitchard.
good
They
I will take an
it.
a mistake that
made by dissolving five grains of crept in during the operation of muriate of ammonia in one gallon of reducing the author's drawings to fit water. G. E, our columns,
be
Series).
September,
CO.,
8,
MELBOURNE
AN ELECTRIC
DISTRIBUTOR.
of
469
AN ELECTRIC
By PROF.
L.
DISTRIBUTOR.
HARISSIATTX.
UCH
The movement was originated, undoubtedly, bydrop a penny in the box" affairs; these boxes were wound up by means of a spring like
distributors of all kinds.
money. I am told that there are in America some distributors that give out a glass of hot wine, coffee, tea, or cocoa. We must acknowledge that this is quite new, and quite American. One of my countrymen, whose name I cannot just now remember, has invented (and this is no toy-like invention) a machine of the " drop a penny" type that makes a fellow's likeness. In this particular case, *'drop a penny" is, for
|a clock,
[from those of a
and the inside works differed very little common American timepiece. LSince then, great progress has been achieved, and Fe have seen automatic distributors working by leans of a counterpoise but these, somehow or
;
and time
Our
Steele
de lumtere ex-
lowever, to do the
[here are in
le
|lnd
mean
electricity.
But let us return to our muttons, as a friend of mine facetiously quoted from the French. This
electro-automatic distributor
is
not so compliabilities
important
cated
that
an amateur
it.
of
medium
could not
side
make
penny, give their customers a box of matches, newspaper, some chocolate creams, a post-card,
I give first (Fig. 1) an outview of the distributor Fig. 2 is the inside view, the apparatus being opened from behind. No. 3 is a detailed, or explanatory figure. I think
in its construction.
;
(New
VOL.
III.
(n.s.)
; :
470
this distributor
CHURCH
is,
CLOCKS.
armature,
f,
is
one extant whose working is completely executed by the apparatus itself. The annexed plan (Fig.
3) will allow
and
my
which was caught in one of the notches that run round the wheel, one for every compartment. The wheel, a, being
raises its other end, h,
free,
more easily the whole mechanism. The electro-automatic distributor consists of a delivery wheel, a, upon which are arranged a number of square compartments, all of the same capacity; in these are placed the boxes or any small parcels that are to be sold by the machine. As a matter of course, these boxes
and called
also
and
go at x one of the small parcels of it may be the latter slips down on an inclined plane, and emerges from the apparatus. It must be noticed that the contact point, m, is movable it is part of an elbow-piece made of brass, swinging on l, and ending on the other arm in a small peg, k, that catches in one of the notches round the wheel. Immediately the latter has begun its rotary motion, one of the divisions raises peg, k, the elbow pivots on l, and contact, m, getting further away from n, allows the coin to go down into the cash box. The current is then interrupted, the armature, f, is brought back to its former position, called
and
lets
sweets, or whatever
back by spring
apparatus
Sattery
FIG. 3.
e,
and the peg, h, catches again and stops the wheel. The
to attend
is
fresh customer
put in at
the proper place. Several tubes of the same size as the delivery
must
all
moves
on the
We see
wheel compartments, are placed on the top of the wheel, and are filled up with small boxes,
which, by their
bell
tells
penny (or any other coin) is to be placed. Need I add that a tube prepared to receive penny coins is useless when sixpenny pieces are to be used. At a given place in the tube, t, are two points of contact, m and n, that leave an empty space just a little
a
flat
tube, in which a
own
weight, come
coin
down and
An
electric
has reached its destination. Fig. 1 gives an outside view o^ the apparatus a young gentleman is treating himself with a box of sweets. It also shows us one of many shapes that may be given to th<
us
that
the
is
a battery
electro-automatic distributor.
depends on the accuracy with which the distributor has been constructed, and also of the resistance produced
it
all
CHURCH CLOCKS:
HOW
I.
and so forth. The current passes through the magnet, e, but is interrupted only between m and n. If we place a penny piece in the tube, t, it falls down, stopping on the two contact points, m and n completes the circuit, and the current, passing through the coin, causes the magnet, e, to act the armature, f, swinging on o, and kept up by a spring, r, whose tension is regulated by a thumbscrew, s, the
by all the
axes,
TO
TRIFLE.
ALLEN.
j
Introduction Wheels Frame Escapement Drum for Winding Maintaining Power. HAVE no doubt that many of on
in
an out of the way place, with plenl tools, very little amusement, and few of time, a This was how I found myself a few less cash.
CHURCH
became my and when I told him I was a mechanic, he opened his heart to me about the church clock. It was made no one knew when, had only one hand to it, with a big stone for a weight, and if it went one hour a week, it was as much as could be expected of it, which, in these times of railway trains and telegraphing, was not only useless, but ridiculous. He had gone into the price of a new one, had been promised some money for the purpose, but found it was beyond his means, as he could not get one the size for less than 70 or, perhaps, 80, and
years ago.
CLOCKS.
apprentices
;
471
The
but
if
only companion
the readers of
Amateur Wokk,
I flatter myself
them
to learn.
In order to understand the subject, it will be as well to have a good look at an ordinary clock.
Tou
or spring attached, to
called the great wheel,
;
make
and
is
revolve
this is
wheel in the clock all the others must be smaller in diameter as they recede, or they will
not
clear
the
spindle
(arbour).
The
centre
if
to
strike, twice
that amount.
I therefore
The framework was what is known as the mangle kind, the escapement was the double three-legged gravity, compensating pendulum and maintaining power to keep it going when wound up, which it required once a week in fact, it was a copy (only a size smaller) of " Big Ben," the celebrated clock of Westminster. It has now been going several years, has never been more than a minute or two out in twelve months, and it only cost me a few shillings for materials. A lathe of some sort, a few files, etc., plenty of elbow grease, and a little brains,
;
one or two intermediate wheels, called and fourth and, lastly, the scape-wheel, that works the pallet, which in its turn works the pendulum. Now, it will be seen that if the centre wheel is required to revolve in an hour, and the scape wheel revolves sixty times to its once, it will beat in seconds, and the pendulum must be the exact length to allow it to do so. The plates, as they are called, which is the framework to hold or carry the wheels, are made
next
;
third
by
pillars
but as this
is
is
requisite
with
if
these,
try.
it
is
astonishing what
readers of
we can do
that a
we
Now, believing
great
like to
"Ours" would
many make
of
the
if
recommend it, I will not describe it any further. The better plan is what is known as the mangle frame, and should have been called the steam-engine bed, as it is more like that than anything else. It consists of a framework of
cast-iron
one,
not for a church, for a similar purpose, such as a large works, a stable, a drinking fountain, or
the thousand and one other places where a large
bottom edge,
work.
called,
with a flange at the to the wood frameThe bearings, or holes, as they are
(see
Pig.
1),
to bolt
down
are
cast
in
brass,
bolts
and reliable timekeeper is required, I have been induced to pen these instructions, which will enable any amateur to make one, and without any previous knowledge. The first thing we have to do is to consider where the clock is to be fixed, and what drop we shall have for the weights also size and number of dials. Tou have all heard of the man who built a carriage in his bedroom, and had to knock it to pieces to get it out. "Well, we do not want to be like him, so will think all
;
framework with
of
little
pitching
the
depths,
a matter of
great
You
done.
we
begin.
Now,
take
you know next to nothing about the clock-making trade, and I am not
for granted that
The cutting of the wheel is another important and expensive item that would run into several pounds; but we shall avoid this expense by using lathe change - wheels, costing a few shillings only, and which are far better than cut brass ones at twenty times the cost. Messrs. Loyde & Co., Steelhouse Lane, Birmingham, sell cast-iron change-wheels, almost any number
472
of teeth or pitch,
CHURCH
beautifully soft,
true,
CLOCKS.
suitable
and
are
beat,
first
and the
when they
If
being the
difficult.
you want
most
The
result.
and polish the rim when running the hollow must be painted, as well as all the framework, pendulum, etc. The escapement consists of all the parts that make the tick, or, rather, the parts that govern
in the lathe
;
will
was a thing to be wondered at nothing true about it, a very old one that had been in some bungler's hands, who had done his best to spoil
DESCRIPTION
FIG.
I.
FIGURES.
FOR CLOCK, THE LARGE END TO TAKE BARREL. FIG. 2. BEARING CAST IN BRASS, TO BE BOLTED TO FRAME. FIGS. 3 AND 4. SIDE AND FRONT VIEW OF WINDING DRUM A, RATCHET WHEEL FOR MAINTAINING POWER B, SMALL RATCHET TO ASSIST WINDING C, GUT WHEEL D, SPRING TO CONNECT GUT WHEEL TO RATCHET WHEEL, A E, DRUM F, WEIGHT H, HOOK FOR WEIGHT ADDITIONAL WEIGHT. G, ARBOUR I, CRANK KEY. FIG. 5.
FRAME
;
them
to
run
it;
and
to
;
my
great sur-
down,
My
always and only in the proper time. object in putting the escapement before you
not because I wish you to begin at that
it is
prise,
first, is
keeps remarkable time so I strongly recommend this escapement to a beginner. will, therefore, proceed with one of this class, of
We
end, but
one of the
to
first
things to be decided
the other parts to
upon, as
suit
it,
we have
make
parts.
shall
and not the escapement to suit the other There are many different kinds, but I restrict myself to three, all of which are
which I will give the fullest details, as many of the parts will be the same for the other escapements, and will not, therefore, be repeated. Having given you a general idea of the work, I will now take each wheel separately, and will
473
work
teeth
it
working
line, or,
wound.
It
4 inches diameter
have what is called a maintaining power, which is an attachment to keep the clock going when being wound as without this, it would lose as many seconds or minutes as it
also
;
must
took to wind.
and
only
way
one end square, to put the key on, and the other end turned to a pivot the centre must be very strongly secured to the barrel, one side of which stands up a little, forming a flange to prevent the line running off. On the other side, or flange, is
;
weight of 24 feet. The weight will depend upon the size and number of dials, the finish and workmanship of the clock, the length and weight of the pendulum, and many other things beside but for the clock we are about to make, with one
;
diameter,
we
will say
It is simply a round about 56 lbs. weight. block of cast-iron, flat at the ends, with a hole in the centre to put a hook through (see Fig. 3),
and
if
we can add
like
to
it,
by
way
is to
have
it
cast
pieces
shaped
somewhat
a cheese (see
in one piece, with a square hole in centre for the arbour, which can then be made of square
Fig. 5).
and turned for the wheels and pivots. The maintaining power wheel will carry the click (see
steel,
Fig.
being pivoted iuto the frame of the clock, the maintaining power wheel is
4), this click
secured
to
by a pin secured
;
which wheel this is secured to the arbour by a collet with a pin through it. Now, it will be seen that when the clock is going, the weight acts on the wheel through the spring (see Fig. 4), but as soon as you take off the weight by winding, the click,
spring, the other end of
to maintaining
works
whose pivots are set in the frame, prevents the maintaining wheel from falling back, and so the spring still drives the great wheel during the
time the clock takes to wind, especially as it need only just keep the escapement going, for
the
is
light tight.
pendulum
This
it is
time.
may seem
from the influence of light, except, of which reaches it during exposure through the lens, is, after all, the grand feature about a dark slide and one which is not "dark" when the shutter is closed, is little more than a
plate
course, that
;
but
thoroughly.
when you understand it The click wheels and all the patterns can be made of wood, and cast in iron
quite simple
at a small cost.
ilr. T. Milnes,
Ingleby "Works,
There are, no doubt, many readers of this magazine who have tried, or would like to try, to make their own apparatus, and there is equally little doubt that many try and fail on
account of
difficulties
maker, has my patterns, and will willingly supply the castings for any of the necessary on the most reasonable terms.
of
come.
for
parts,
The camera, perhaps, they can manage, though it may not be a very handsome one,
if it is
The number
teeth in the
great wheel,
light tight
it
diameter and length of the barrel, will depend upon the height of drop we can allow the
weight
and as some
of
to
with as much highly finished production. The dark slide, however, is a different matter, for a considerable
may be used
474
degree of
is
necessary in
making
it,
and
it
it.
it,
in the
fail
with
"When the best material cannot be had, the is the adoption of that which comes nearest to it and applying this principle to dark slides, it may be said, if we cannot manage to make or afford to buy good mahogany
wisest alternative
;
the soft fluffy kinds are not so suitable, though they are more easily cut. The glue, also, should
double dark
This
is
slides, let
us
make
an
easily
workable
be good, and not only good in quality, but freshly melted, and hot not stuff which has been melted and remelted till The it has lost its strength. knife, especially towards the
;
point,
as
an
and glue
pler,
proceeds.
can
The
nearly,
to
fill
the slide
if
smallest possible
cost,
easily
notquite, thick
enough
and quickly.
Neatness
and
by
a
if
;
it
should
fit
closely,
the
certain
amount
of patience
he
is
lacking in these, he
may
FIG.
I.
Second
wztk
-e
of (hndboard
catoat
If
it
is
too thin,
the
ajSgezgzz
a:
P LATE
on to the
photography
at
F\z.2.Sechonoi'sideofSUdesbJ?w&^ camera, or on to what must shatters and plates. UO w be called the front of
the slide.
Out
corresponding
the size of
say,
trifle
and
any
it.
4 by
inches,
or
the fit may be In the camera referred to, as is no doubt well known, the slide is grooved on
order
that
and prevent
it
being
F C
l
3. Top
ends of Shatters
its
outer edges,
to allow of
small brass plates fitting within them, and holding the slide in close contact with
the camera framing behind.
little
an extra space
of, say,
may
not
that is to say, start the opening where it will clear the wood of the camera, and make the opening 4J inches long.
at the top;
sizes,
The next
experience, only answer for the small size. If I had a larger camera, I should certainly not
piece of cardboard need only be thin one-third, or one-half of the front piece will be
ample.
is little, if at
475
away before
it
this is printed
on would be
it
if
stuck together,
quite sufficient.
Anyway, the
mode
of proceeding is the
slide
too tightly.
thickness.
To
if it
test,
note
if
it
From
slides freely.
which
it
slides.
The
piece,
may be we
Any convenient
thickness
may be used
for the
may
conclude,
fits
next piece of card, the object of which is twofold, viz., to prevent the shutter touching the
film
two brass
on the camera, is just their thickness or a trifle more, and 1 inch longer than the first piece of card, beyond which it should extend at the bottom to overlap the edge of the camera framing. Please note I am referring
slips
on the
plate,
and
this in front.
A thin
only to an old instantograph, and other makes may not need the same arrangement. The
remainder will project above the camera top, to afford a hold by which the slide may be opened.
Now
cut this second piece of card some \ inch wider in the opening than in the first, \ inch
lower,
Fig.
1,
-which is not
but
this,
is
and right through to the top, as in drawn to any particular scale, given to show the method. The cuts of
for
if
guided by a straightedge,
they were
It is also
important, especially in this piece, that the cuts should be quite parallel, or if there is any divergence, let the piece cut out be wider at the
it
must, however, be
Its upper edge will be equal with the first piece, and at the bottom it may as well extend as low as the second piece does. In width it should be great enough to lap over the brass strips, or, say, be equal to the front piece of card. The hole to be cut in it must be less than the size of the plate, and if it measures 4 by 3, it will be about right. The smaller the hole the less of the surface of the plate will be exposed that is all, but the margin should not be cut too fine. The bottom and sides of this hole will correspond with the same in the front piece, the top being \ inch lower. Now glue this in its place, applying the glue to the surface of the second piece, and taking particular care that there is none to squeeze out into the space within which the shutter works, for it will be a If the glue is difficult matter to clear it away. only rubbed on thinly, this misbap may easily
required.
at the bottom, there might be a risk of light getting into the plate on the shutter being opened. This risk is diminished, but not altogether done away
much narrower
be avoided.
shutter
When
may
all is well,
again be tested ;
with,
by making the shutter wider, so that the pieces in front and behind, between which it slides, overlap more. The best way is to do away with all risk by accurate workmanship. When
ready,
The
it.
The
piece,
or rather the
edges cut from the shutter, on to the back of the first piece the best way to do this is to put the first piece in its place in the camera, put the
;
may be
larger.
The
by 3
little
inches, but
irregularly
larger,
glue thinly on the other, and press it down. The brass strips afford an accurate guide when placing
it.
may
as well be a
trifle
As soon
so
when doing
not
disturb
the
relative
positions of the
two
pieces,
and leave them there till any glue has exuded at the edges, scrape
any which are not quite hole should be so arranged that The accurate. the preceding piece allows an equal margin all round it the front of the plate will then rest
accommodate
The
fifth piece is
476
; ;
AN IMPROVED
is
PIPE CLEANER.
and
which
it
is
inserted
AN IMPROVED
By H.
PIPE CLEANER.
J.
when
it is
drawn up.
W.
requires no explanation
but
may be
well to
say that
it
PIPE CLEANER
necessities
is
one
of
those
The
the
sixth
and
first,
except that
to
enough
If
it
admit the
plate,
wherewith to cleanse his pipe when and he is a foolish man who refrains from keeping his pipe in proper condition when the means of doing it are so
filled
with nicotine
convenient thickness.
exceedingly simple.
has not been already done, a stop formed of a piece of cardboard must be glued on the
front of the front shutter.
The
skilled
constructed, and
Presuming that
is
this
mechanic
is
and
as I well
know from
is
ex-
when
perience
how pleasant an
adjunct a pipe
while
the amateur
\ inch extra space at the top of the front opening is taken up, so that the holes measure 4 by
3 inches, as originally stated.
my my
smoking
friends.
To make
all clear,
and a
anyone studying
it
in
description of same appeared in "Amateurs in Council " ; but it had several drawbacks, so I
have no
intended.
difficulty
in
understanding
what
is
Fig.
1,
may be
trade
tin,
known
in the
(xx),
cut to size
may be rendered more so by cutthem from alternate sides, as shown in Fig. 3. As they are apt to wear ragged and get torn, they may be rendered more durable by glueing over them a piece of calico, or similar substance. The whole slide may be improved, both in appearance and wear-resisting qualities, by varnishing it outside. The insides of the shutters and margin, on which the plate rests,
handles, and
ting
shown lamp having done this, wire bottom edge with No. 4 (B. W. G.) wire, bend it until it resembles a cylindrical shape, and make a soldered or lap
seam.
You
shown
(represented in Fig.
in Fig. 2),
by dotted
turn
;
lines, b, also
diameter of
side, as
body,
and
Indian
shown in sectional elevation (see Fig. 2). Next block your top, and cut out hole for cylindrical tapered tube, fit same in, turning edge down, and solder inside before clapping your top on body (see Fig. 2). Now clap on body, and next proceed with your ears and handle (these are shown in Figs. 4 and 5) the material used can either be No. 4 (B. W. G)
;
excellent non-conductor,
about
to
inch,
The
be covered.
Practical Engineer.
ears should be filed or hammered flat, so that they will set or rest evenly on edge of can
A LAVATORY CUPBOARD.
solder on same,
477
pipe cleaner
the lamp.
is
and pan a bottom to it (see d, Figs. 1 and 2). Next clap on blocked top, having inserted a wick screw in centre of same lastly, solder rivet A on edge, to keep lamp in position, and it is
;
Modus
operandi.
full of water,
and as soon as steam generates put bowl of pipe on cylindrical tapered tube teleseopically (see Fig. 3) let pipe remain on same until the water dropping from stem of pipe begins to drop almost clear, and by this time
light lamp,
your pipe "is as sweet as a nut." Should my description be insufficiently clear for some amateurs, call upon me through the
medium
of
"Amateurs
in Council."
A LAVATORY CUPBOARD.
BEING THE, NINTH OF A SERIES DEALING WITH ARTICLES OF
HOUSEHOLD
By ED.
C.
UTILITY.
ROE,
gga
FANCY
"What
truly
And
it is
but
it is
some of these
make
this
out-of-the-way things, judiciously placed, that a home more comfortable. The use of
cupboard will be apparent, and the convenience afforded thereby is also to be noticed, but I will just venture a few sentences by way
of introduction.
The day
as
is
we know them
present
of
fittings,
the
old-
fashioned kind
places occupied
respect.
F
FIG.
i
will
in
be obsolete, and
their
C.I
FIC2.
;
FIG. 2. SECTIONAL ELEVATION RIVET B, WATER PARTITION C, CLAPPED ON FIG. 3. MODE IN WHICH D, PANNED JOINT. JOINT PIPE IS CLEANED. FIG. 4. WIRE HANDLE. FIG. 5. EARS.
I. SIDE ELEVATION.
;
A,
considered an improvevogue in the better class of house, which is making the w.c. seat to open upon hinges so as to fall back against the lid or flap, and thus bring to view a " table-top," as it is named. This is fixed over the closet apparatus,
A method to be
much
ment
is
The lamp
scopically in
is
made
as
follows
Turn a
fit
as
seat to
and make
it
it
tele-
having a
be merely hinged, and the apparatus left exposed. The top consists of white glazed earthenware,
478
A LAVATORY CUPBOARD.
be readily understood that few true dimensions can be obtained from it as a matter of fact, only those of the door and the under bracket. For the remainder we must look to Figs. 1, 3, and 4
;
dished so that any fluid spilt upon it may run pan of the apparatus. The advantages to be derived from this system are undeniable but there is another system daily becoming more
into the
1
;
popular the pedestal closet where there is no front or riser, but simply a small seat hinged,
plan, elevation of
the plan, Fig.
side,
bracket, respectively.
when thrown back, leaves the closet pan available for use as a slop-sink, or for other purposes. It is almost useless to discuss such
which,
1, shows as though the cupboard was cut through about the middle of the door. The left-hand side is a plan, as though you were
improvements, at any rate, from one point of view, for the majority of houses are fitted with the old style seat and riser, and so will have
to
remain.
Under such
is
circumstances,
it
is
well
underneath the cupboard as it is fixed. which the diagrams are drawn is 2 inches to a foot, or one-sixth full size. The sides should be the first to be prepared two pieces, 18 inches long and 12 inches wide, will be required, inch finished in thickness.
directly
The
scale to
One
is
another point to be considered tidiness. How very bad it looks to see paper strewn about the floor, etc. The system of providing toilet paper in rolls is good, and it is also
there
as the tongue
the
The
sides are
cheap, so I have
The design has been prepared that the cupboard may be fixed in an angle, as being the most usual and, at the same time, the most convenient place to fix
it.
bottom and top, must next be meaning, when speaking of housings, will by this time have been rendered clear, as the procedure has been dealt with several times in the former papers of the series.
strictly speaking,
cut in.
my
Of course,
certainly
is
it is
Now, what
deal
is
;
shall
;
it
be
made
of
Enamelled
much more
satisfactory job,
and
capital
clean
that
is,
In such a
a small mat should be placed on the top to receive any lamp or candlestick that may be placed thereon but if painted work is
case,
;
the radii which cut the points can be, and are
as follows
:
Taking as
not cared
material.
for,
then walnut or
mahogany
is
good
and
Do
then
we may begin
The
corner
fittings is to introduce
a circular front, as being more economical, as regards space, and altogether better adapted to the purpose but circular work
;
from o, and 11^ inches at b 4| inches. With these dimensions the The setting out should be comparatively easy. curves must be sketched in by hand, or struck by means of a long rod, pencil, and bradawl.
;
b to o
means a tremendous lot of careful experienced work, far more than could fairly be placed before an average amateur ; so that if my endeavour to reduce the amount of work, by introducing straight work, minimises in any way the usefulness or the general effect, pray let the fact bear weight in the argument for or against.
the door, can be set out. The door should be inches 8f inches wide on the front edge, and 1\ The side pieces will work out about 4$ high. inches wide, and will be housed into the shelves
;
indeed, they must be fixed before the sides are permanently attached to the shelves. It is a
It will
all to
go together
A LAVATORY CUPBOARD.
479
FIC.3
nicely,
brackets, as
shown
full size
by Fig.
8.
A small
Now
The
The best and most expeditious manner to fix these is to let the two brackets, Fig. 4, fit into
housings provided in the under side of the bottom, and then let the back piece tongue into the
be seen in Fig. 2
4. is
The door
sizes
;
of stuff 1}
480
of door
with side, at Fig. 6. What to use for is an open question. Some people like a piece of clear glass, as tending to intimate to probable users the contents of the cupboard. Possibly some 'will adopt the means of decoration suggested by Mr. Bennett in his useful
the panel
papers, and
it
AMATEURS.
By GREGORIE EDOUIN BEY.
IV.
Electric Lighting by Batteries A Four-Celled Single Fluid Chromic Acid Battery A Double Fluid Chromic Acid Battery Batteries for
work in a photograph. Of course, would be advisable, under such treatment, to make the door rebated, and fix the glass, photo, and back in with a bead mitred round. We have worked gradually upward, and now we come to the capping (see Fig. 7, for section). This moulding will be returned upon itself at
each end, and, of course, mitred in the centre.
Night Lights.
in my first paper I disamateurs from attempting electric lighting on a large scale by means of current obtained from primary batteries, on account of the cost and intolerable mess attending the use of these generators of electricity when used for such purposes, it is
ILTHOUGH
suaded
The
take a piece of moulding and return the ends carefully, afterwards cutting into two portions,and mitreing together to proper dimension, 4 inches each way. When glued up and dry, it can be dowelled on
best
1
way
is to
about
foot long,
Electric lighting
by means
will
of
batteries
may be
1
to 5 candle
power
meet
as a whole.
The last constructional operation is to fit and hang the door with a pair of If brass pressed
butts, providing a
knob, as preferred.
As
way
is to
plug the
walls, and fasten up with a couple of screws from the inside of the cupboard or a couple of brass-headed nails, allowed to pass through holes bored in the side, would do. By the way, it would be well to bore a few holes in the sides at the top of the cupboard proper, in order that a little ventilation might be afforded to keep the interior sweet. A small zinc tray must be provided to catch any moisture a circular tray, with a rim about f inch deep, answers admirably.
; ;
be mentioned the following: for a closet or small cupboard, where it is only desired to locate the position of surrounding a light enclosed in ruby glass for a objects photographic dark room an occasional light in a bedroom, as when the occupant of a bed wishes For to see the time by his watch in the night. all such purposes as these, the electric light is superior to any other, because there is no danger of fire from having it near clothing, books, or
; ;
papers in a confined space it does not taint the air with objectionable fumes, and it does away with the necessity of striking matches to obtain a light. Such small electric lights may be main;
tained with current from a primary battery. have now to consider the many claims to
We
Now
This
may
be obtained at the stationer's, and a stout wire frame is also supplied to suspend it by. Sometimes
these
cast-iron backs are
also
a suitable battery for the purpose and here I would just venture on a note of warning to my
;
readers.
Do
supplied,
and
the
might be
utilised
by screwing on
back.
I fancy but few readers will condemn this cupboard as unnecessary convenient fittings in
;
vendors of new batteries, as published in the newspapers and on printed circulars all such batteries are as much lauded at the outset as those quack medicines which are said to cure
;
a household are already so few, that I feel sure such an one as this will be a very welcome
all
the
ills afflicting
poor humanity.
All
new
be
by
their inventors to
be appreciated. I think that I have said all that is necessary but if anything has been unwittingly omitted, let
addition,
will
and
inexpensive.
what
is said
me
plead,
Humanum
est errare.
about them, it should cost next to nothing to obtain a horse-power of current generated in one of the new primary batteries. The puffs
481
may be
cells
cell in
any battery to generate 1 ampere of current per hour to this must be added the cost of the oxidising solution, which must be frequently renewed, and the cost of the depolarising solution. The batteries most in favour for electric lighting at the present day, are those in which
;
up a form a useful adjunct to a photographer's dark room. The cells should fit in a shallow tray, furnished with
each
cell, fitted
up
6-volt
5-c.p.
lamp,
and
will
made
to
fit
a groove in
bichromate of potash solution, or a solution of chromic acid, is used as the depolariser, with
The plates, cut to fit the cells must be fixed in slots cut in the platform, and each plate should be furnished with a terminal binding screw. The zinc plates for
carbon plates.
loosely,
each cell should be enclosed between two carbon plates (at a distance of \ inch from each
plate), to furnish a large negative
surface,
and
and
to
lines
passing
over
in
the
ends
is to
of
the
FIG. 7.
6. SECTION OF A FOUR-CELL SINGLE FLUID CHROMIC ACID BATTERY, WITH LIFTING ARRANGEMENT FOR ELECTRIC LIGHTING.
OF DOUBLE
SECTION
standards.
The
carbon as the negative element. Bichromate of potash is an inferior depolariser to chromic acid, and it also has the demerit of giving forth a somewhat sickly odour whilst fresh, and
depositing almost insoluble crystals in the cells
when it gets stale, or nearly worked out. It can be obtained at less cost than chromic acid, and may be used for short experiments with success. Bichromate of potash and chromic acid batteries are divided into two separate classes those with single fluid cells, and those with double fluid Among the first may be mentioned the cells. familiar bottle bichromate cell, which may be made to do good service if four or more of them
:
must be connected to the two carbon plates of the next cell, and so on. A flexible metallic cord will connect the two ends of the battery with the lamp, which may be lighted at a moment's notice by pressing the platform down, and thus immerse the plates in the solution, or extinguished in the same time
by
by
(A
sectional sketch of a
The
made up
mate or chromic acid cells must be provided with an arrangement for throwing the elements out
of the solution
each pint of This will run a 6-volt 5-c.p. lamp for three hours and this time may be taken out of it in small quantities, extending over several
;
days,
if
so desired.
The
zinc plates
must be
when
the battery
is
not in use,
because the solution dissolves the zinc, and wastes it (even when well amalgamated with
the battery, and should be frequently cleaned and freshly coated with mercury to prevent local
action
mercury) when the circuit is not closed. One of two methods may be adopted for this purpose
:
acid
is
may be
lifted
up
to the
be of glass
Is. 6d.
each;
482
cell
and these
crystals
were
Single
fluid
double fluid
resistance
cells
with difficulty removed, whilst their presence greatly increased the internal resistance of the
Masses of green crystals had also formed cell. I have found these best removable in warm water, made acid by adding
cell.
in the porous
The result is seen in more available power for use in the outer circuit. But single fluid cells are not nearly so constant
resistance of the battery.
little
muriatic acid.
as double fluid
cells,
is
attacked
in the
when
the battery
Much of the
up
may now be
avoided
if
we
Among
double fluid
cells
we may
place in
the
among
therefore
to try this
out some years ago by Mr. Henry J. Dale, then doing business in Little Britain, but now re-
battery, a similar solution to that used in the single fluid battery previously described.
The
premises.
As
originally
of a
may
was made up
;
round
dissolv-
was placed
an outer jar of stoneware, and packed in tightly with grains of broken carbon around the porous cell, and around a carbon plate, to form the negative element. The outer jar was charged with a solution of bichromate of potash, made
acid with muriatic instead of
ing scrap zinc in muriatic acid until the acid will not dissolve any more zinc dilute this with one-third its bulk of rain water for use in the cell. As chromic acid, when bought of the
;
sulphuric
acid.
The granules
of
is a very costly ranging in price from 2s. up to 3s. 6d. per pound, I have pleasure in announcing where it can be obtained at a much cheaper rate. From a price list issued by Mr. S. E. Bottone, Elec-
"Chromic
lbs., 9d.
2 to 27
lbs.,
lid.
improved by using a cylinder of rolled zinc in the porous cell, instead of a zinc bolt, and thus
the positive surface
this battery
;
per lb.; 28 to 55
per lb."
pur:
was
also increased.
When
A
poses
was first set up, it gave great satisfaction there was little or no local action on the zinc, and, as a consequence, the cells might be set up for any length of time before being used, much the same as a Leclanche battery is set up, and current could be taken from it at any time. The trouble came afterwards, when the battery had been in occasional use for several weeks. The current failed, as the current from all primary batteries will fail at some time, and it then became necessary to clean out the old It was then solution, to re-charge the battery.
found that the bichromate of potash solution had, during the process of decomposition,
may be made up in
the following
manner
Get four large glass or stoneware cells, holding, say, \ gallon of liquid in each cell also get four white porous cells to match the outer cells that is to say, if the outer cells are round, get round porous cells, but if these are oblong, get oblong
; ;
porous
cells,
porous
cells
fit
cells
and in all cases let the tops of the stand up above the rims of the outer
g-
at
least
inch.
if
to
plates
them with
to
fit
mercury.
the
In
483
plates, to
be used
The as the negative element of the battery. carbons should be capped with lead, and furnished with terminal binding screws. (A sectional sketch,
Even then, the low E. M. F. of each cell, compared with that of the chromic acid cells, necessitates the use of, at least, two cells of the
cells.
as
latter,
when using
When
the battery
surface.
The charge
by measure
1
;
part, water
ROBERT COXON.
Folding Sheet presented with this Part.)
10 parts,
acid
in the outer
cells,
chromic
design, when carried out, will be found to form a very artistic piece of work, either in oak or walnut it could be easily made, and at a moderate cost, either by one of the trade or by an amateur conversant with wood-working tools. Many might prefer the design without the plinth, in which case a simple surbase could be substituted, and also would be found very but to those who are skilled in woodeffective
; ;
1 lb.,
quart.
i^HIS
lamp
period of from
it
will
be necessary to renew the solution. The cost will be about Is. per quart of depolarising solution if the chromic acid is bought at the cheap rate before mentioned. Just a word or two of caution in the use of chromic acid. Its action is powerfully corrosive, and it will dissolve out the soft parts of common stoneware, as well as creep up and corrode the
heads and connections of the carbons
I
;
therefore
recommend
cells,
a jester in the pediment, together with other details, would form good practice and a fair test
of
their
skill
otherwise, the
scroll-worked
mend
connections.
This task
is
a comparatively easy
medallion in pediment could be dispensed with, and the cornice carried through in a less
elaborate
fashion.
etc.
,
gether again.
cells or fittings
The
it
details
of
cornice
would be well to copy, at least, with but slight alteration, to harmonise with the mantel on which it is proposed to be
mouldings, caps,
lamp as an occaby a watch, has been mentioned. For this purpose the lamp is suspended by a hook under an opaque shade over the watch-stand, and is connected to a flexible cord, fitted with an ordinary push or pressel, which may be hung by the side of the
of a small electric
The use
The pilasters should be 1 \ inch square, but perhaps they might be improved by using framing to panels of plinth, \\*\ \\ inch
placed.
;
inch.
As
before
stated,
much
of
the
effect
Current for
one piece 9 inches diameter, the carved scrollwork to it being 12 x 21 inches, could be
is
previously described
cells
from a battery of Fuller with extra large zincs, or from several large
cells,
Leclanche
instead of
zinc rods.
When
these types of
we
cells
worked in two pieces, and carefully joined at the head and foot; but, if possible, the work would be more perfect in one. The whole of this feature must be affixed at the scroll apex to this the pediment proper, and to the frieze would prove a chaste addition to the work, provided the worker does not object to the extra time and labour it would entail.
;
484
AN ORGAN BUILDER.
The Keyboard.
of our workers
it
will
be impossible
to
make
a square frame.
HOSE
to
have the
glue up sufficient 1J inch pine to finish a slab 2 feet 9 inches long and 2 feet 6| inches wide, with the edges and ends square. Use the
Now
done with good celluloid for the naturals and ebony sharps for 25s., or if ivory is preferred, double this amount would be charged. The frames would have to be made, and the stuff glued up at home. This much is handed to the key-maker, who puts in the pins, glues the pieces on top and bottom, eases the keys, and, in fact, makes them ready for their insertion in any organ, all for the amount above mentioned. It is not everybody whose means will permit them to have them made for them, in- which case the
following
instructions
will
very best stuff for this cut out all curly places, and on no account use a knot or a shake. If It possible, let the piece finish 1 inch thick.
;
must be planed quite true across, and from end to end, and then be fitted tight between the rails, r r, Fig. 102, with the front end level with
the front edge of the
rail, t,
Fig. 102.
If the
give
the
process
through which they would have to pass. If possible, I would strongly recommend that the key-maker make the keys, as they being thoroughly conversant with the details of work, they do it with that completeness and finish which experience and care can alone produce. The first thing to be done is to make the frame. Oak or mahogany may be used, but the former looks the better of the two. Prepare two pieces 2 feet 11 \ inches long, 3 inches wide, as thick as a 1 inch board will hold another
;
keys are not to be made by yourself, the parts, so far connected, must be packed in a case and forwarded to a key-maker, who will return them Should anyone finished, as alluded to above. rather do the work himself, I should advise him to have a good look at a set of keys (pianoforte keys will ,do), so that he may be able to
follow the directions
more
clearly.
In a set of keys, the compass from C C to A, there will, of course, be 34 naturals and 24
sharps.
The top
up must
is to
be
The
c,
first
thing
draw
the lines a, h, b, e,
d,
:
i?,
at the following
17A,
piece 2 feet
9J inches long, 1 inch thick, 3 inches wide and one 2 feet 8J inches long, 3i inches wide, and J inch thick. These must all
;
On side draw lines at J, Z\, lof-f, 19tk inches. the top side divide that surface enclosed by the line h, and the front end, into 34 equal parts, and
from that
line to the
be planed up true, and gauged to a thickness. The first two are for the sides, it r, Fig. 102, and the front end should be moulded in some way to give a better appearance, as seen in Fig. 103. Instead of shaping them in this way, the front top end may be rounded, or even the corner
cut off square,
is
if s,
them
care-
preferred.
The second
This
is
piece
The piece between the front two lines on the bottom side has to be cleaned out inch deep, and mahogany or lime put in. Any number of pieces may be used about 6 inches is a convenient width to lay at a time. The veneer must
;
be a
trifle
off.
on the top
side, like
Fig. 103.
mor-
and wedged from the outside marked on Fig. 102. The | inch
rail, t,
and
19;rV inches.
The
mahogany must be
piece
is for
the front
Fig. 102.
is let
A dove-
tail is
made on each
end,
and
at
at each
| inch from the front, with a couple of screws end to hold it firm. Great care must be
two pieces will meet on one of the lines marked on the pine. The distance between ef. Fig. 104, will be covered in the same way, with this exception the stuff is simply glued on the top, and not let
so arranged that
:
PRACTICAL ORGAN BUILDING.
in.
485
is
shown
the bottom
ing tool
centre-bit with
a large centre
may be
procured.
of veneer, rS inch thick,
is
Along the front end of the board glue a piece ebony veneer; glue the end well, and rub the ebony hard, or it will not hold
of thin
A piece
similar
now let
in,
shown
a
in l, Fig. 103.
let in in
properly.
way
to those
on the bottom
sides,
and
The board
the front end
is
now fastened
into the
frame with
A inch behind
same way as the grain of The black notes will not require this
the mortises are all cut, tooth
are enlarged to reduce
the rail
t,
Fig. 102.
With a
When
enough
to
make
The mortises
Now
H R
difficulty
to
many an amateur
naturals,
way
I can suggest
is
sales
z:ei
being disposed of, across an old square piano. In itself it is next to worthless, but it will contain some good wood. Instruments of this class are frequently knocked down at a nominal price. If anyone is lucky enough to drop on one of these, the keys themselves are of no use, but the
old furniture
times one
may come
ivories will
come in
in
many
but
if
marked on the lines a b c d, Fig. 104, the oak. Take care that these holes are
Do
key where a natural key should be. The line, e and d, represents the pins for the sharps, while a and c are those for the naturals. Take the board off, and with a small chisel, the same size as the wire, cut mortises through the pieces, e, and the front, p, Fig. 103, tfe inch long. A keymaker would use a punch formed like two small chisels back to back. The holes through the
piece, p, over the rail,
s,
must now all be laid out, and the numbered. In all probability they will be too wide, in which case the edges must be shot with a very fine steel-faced plane. They must be so arranged that there will be a space nearly A inch wide between each ivory. The fronts are now glued on, taking care that the front ends of all of them form an accurately The front end should project rV straight line. inch beyond the surface of the ebony. The tailpieces are laid on in the following manner Mark the back end of the ivory, and drive a
The
ivories
tail-pieces
small nail a
trifle
trifle.
The holes
in
front
of
to
Jfe
mahogany
will simply
pin
bits
is
thick.
trifle
and as wide as the This opening may be done by using larger and larger still until the
A inch long
forming an almost imperceptible joint. Where the two meet, all glue should be removed, or a black joint will show. When all are laid, a piece of hard wood is made hot, and laid the whole
vol. in. (n.s.)
486
length,
front rail.
The
quite dry.
must be
laid in
ways.
they
may
On the next operation considerable care must The slab of wood has to be be bestowed.
separated into fifty-eight pieces.
first
be obtained ready made for a very small sum, or they may be made out of brass wire, No. 10 gauge. The bottom ends are pointed, and the tops nicely rounded. The front ones should be \\ inches long, and the middle ones 1| inches.
^
The
lines are
cut
down from
The
panel saw.
z 'eg"
S3
4-
1-1
ft
1-4- -1
-1
t
1- 1-
-4
4-
t-H 1
D C
a-'
-+
1-1
4-1 ll-IH
l-l -ft-
-4-14! -4-41
J3
E
S3
r1
+
1
-4- +
4- 4-
t-
1-
4-
!-- 4
441
-#-*
4>
+ +
H >++
*+-
+*
1+1+14
I++
114 +
-+
+
FIG. 103.
FIG.
104.
SCALE lj INCHES =
SCALE 2^ INCHES
I
FOOT.
FOOT,
The holes should be bored in the rails i inch deep, and the pins knocked in so that those in the front stand up % inch, and the middle ones
lj inches. Discs of thick green baize, inch diameter (cut with a hollow punch), and a hole punched in the middle, are placed on each front
pin,
may be done
by mortising from the top a little The front part of the natural key is cut in a slanting direction, and a gap is formed between the end of the sharp and the natural, r3s inch wide, as seen in
with a
chisel,
i inch diameter, is put These form a soft bed for the keys to work on, and dispense with the noise that the keys would make, when pressed down, through the key coming in contact with the
disc,
and a similar
Should the front ends of the sharps procured be round, the ends of the black notes
Fig. 103.
will
With
as
487
Where the plane will not touch the wood, use a file and glasspaper. The keys have now to be eased. Put each key into its place separately, and, with a fine
mate
the mortise a
trifle
If inches wide, with the top edge rounded, v, Fig. 103. Brass screws look best.
flat file,
larger until
;
on no
account let them be loose. When all are fitted, put the smallest lubrication of soap on each pin with the thumb and finger.
It is more than likely that the ivories will be discoloured to clean them, scrape them well with a steel scraper, then rub in well a thick mixture of whitening and water, finishing them
;
Thus far finished, the keys are fixed on the key bench with four long screws, sunk through the cheeks behind the piece m, Fig. 103, or they will show. The front ends of the cheeks must come flush with the front rail of the key bench, and if properly constructed, the inside of the cheeks will come flush with the inside edges of the long rails of that same piece.
with a pad and fullers earth. Put all the set in their places, and glue on the sharps. The front end of the ebony should come almost close to the back ends of the two natural keys, between which the sharp has to work. The only way to fix them is to glue the wood, and rub the pieces well together until a good joint is formed. When laying the ivories and the sharps, use new, clean glue, not too thick, or the glue can be seen through the ivory. If anyone makes the keys for himself, I must say that too much care cannot be paid to all the foregoing details.
off
IT.
Methods
various
HE
manner
wire,
push, b the
piece of mahogany, 2 feet 6f inches long, inch thick, 2 inches wide, will be laid across \ the keys at 6J inches from the front. Four centre-bit holes, 1 \ inches in diameter and inch
and push, a is the and o the battery. When the pressed down, the current proceeds
bell,
bell,
it,
back to the
If
it is
zinc,
or negative
of lead will be fitted into them, to give the thumper, as it is termed, more weight. The bottom side of the wood must be planed quite true, to form a good joint over the keys. A pin will project \ inch beyond each end, and a notch
how
to
this is to
be done.
Instead of a return
push
up and down which the pins will move as required. The thumper prevents the keys rebounding, which they would otherwise do, from the weight of the pallet springs. The bottom of the mahogany must be covered
is
a gas or water pipe, to which it is securely soldered. The wire from the zinc pole is also carried to a gas or water pipe.
as to the
method, as in
k,
Fig. 103,
is
nections of the
instance,
con;
for
A piece
at
of i-inch oak, 1 \ inches wide, notched each end, will be glued to a strip of the same
2 inches wide, and the two will be screwed \ inch behind the sharp keys, and be planed flush with the outside of the cheeks, as
material,
from
acting,
and
is
causing
considerable
discovered.
bead of oak
will
be
two
rail,
push.
Two
single
be
488
connected, as
will
The current
The objection
station
is
to
same
can
be divided passing through the nearer and further bell. This, however, is a method not so
satisfactory, as
made
The
size,
as to the
bells
owing
is
as
shown
uncertain.
Additional
this
is
battery
power
is
required
in
in
case.
Fig.
22
making
It
is
distinctions in
preferable.
remarkable, nevertheless,
Pig. 22 shows how two such bells are rung from two points. In this way several bells can be made to ring in separate rooms, the first
vibrating, the rest single stroke. Sufficient battery power must be supplied. However, it will not be necessary to spend further time on
this arrangement, as
Station /,
how
heard one of several bells ring and in many eases, although knowing the distinct tone of each bell, he may yet be unable, after having heard it, to tell which one of the set sounded, especially
if
moment
of
ringing
it is
otherwise occupied.
Therefore a
much more
Station
FIO.^O.
o
ii
Earth
Station
/.
Station 2.
-o
.o
o
-O
o
HI
FIC.3I.
Eartti\
Earth
reader will have much occasion for two bells to ring at the same time, so his attention is
directed to another combination.
certain
and preferable
with
how
on the bell ringing, the attendant has only to look at the indicator to find whence the call comes.
Fig. 26, a,
b,
c,
indicators
attached, so that
Fig. 24 shows how four bells in separate rooms can be rung from one point. 1, 2, 3, 4
d,
shows
bells of
various
shapes.
Fig. 27 shows the method of connecting up by which signalling can be carried on, using a bell on the " Morse " principle, as stated
later on.
When the right-hand push, the current passes from the battery through the push, rings the top bell, and then returns to the battery. No. 3 push corresponds with the next bell; No. 1, the
are the pushes.
No.
4, is pressed,
push, with the lowest bell. Each push is connected with the return wire, as shown in
left
b,
The key, a, presses against the upper point, when at rest. If it is desired to signal from
1
station
to station 2, the
key
at station
c.
is
the figure.
pressed
down
so as to
make
contact with
The
Fig. 25 shows this arrangement adapted to the case of four different bells at one place being rung from four separate points.
current from the +, or positive pole, of the battery d proceeds to the point c, along the key, line wire, key a of No. 2 station, contact
489
FIG. 27.
J2
iialion
'.ffsW
^^
StaUfln ]
.
r^lSfg
k
tf
,/f
IC.20
Station 2
ix
-fC
ZJ
FIC.29.
7T
tot/T
EaJ-Vt
f-iG.ze.
Bart)
490
point,
b, rings the bell, e, during its passage through it, then to the earth wire of the battery, where the earth wire from the bell meets it at
f,
-J-
upper
key
a,
by b
the point,
If,
through the
this
bell b,
then to earth.
is
on the other hand, station 2 wishes to station 1, the key at station 2 is pressed, and the current proceeds in the same
signal to
When
from the
signals
at
manner as above
through
battery,
a,
b,
described, d,
c,
a, to station 1,
station 2 is depressed.
-f-
to bell,
it
cannot pass
and
to earth.
to a, as there is
If the electric bell is set by the regulating screw forming contact with the armature, so as to produce a very rapid vibration, this can be
made
the medium for maintaining conversation on the " Morse " principle before mentioned, a short depression of the key producing a dot or short sound on the bell while a sustained
;
makes up the alphabet. The more rapid the action of the bell, the more marked will be
the distinctions in sound. In actual practice an instrument called the "sounder" is employed,
which
is
really a
delicately made.
The reader can use an ordinary electric bell, with the hammer head and hammer lever cut
off,
is
made
to
work between
adjustable screws.
construction.
Fig.
The following
is
is
if
no contact with o, so it passes along the lower line wire, through o, along i, which is depressed against c, back by the upper line wire to key a of station 1, past b, rings bell, e, then to earth. Fig. 30 shows how signalling in both directions can be carried on, one battery, ordinary pushes, and three line wires being employed. On the push or press button, making contact at station 1, current proceeds from battery along line No. 2 through bell to earth. On station 2 replying, the push is pressed, current proceeds from -J- pole at station 1, along the line No. 3, through depressed push at No. 2, returning along top line No. 1, ringing bell at station 1 then going to earth. Fig. 31 shows how signalling can be maintained in both directions by means of ordinary pushes, battery at one end, two line wires being used. On the push at station 1 being pressed, the current proceeds from -j- pole of battery by
,
out here for the convenience of the reader should wish to try the experiment
:
he
2,
thence to
On
1,
A.B-. C-.
F. ..
.
K-.L. -..
--.
G--.
.
Q--.R
S.
H...
I.
.
M-N.
.-.
. .
w
X
Y
z
station
it is
it
DE.
J.-the
Tof
the upper line wire, through the pressed push at station 2, then
as
to earth.
By
courtesy
Messrs. Gent
&
Co.,
key.
is in
On
methods of con;
as
shown in
their publications
the
is
When
-(-
and then
push, in order to
Tig. 29 shows
make
how
precisely the
on in both directions, one battery, Morse keys, and two line wires being employed. On the
shown
same which
be evident on comparison.
491
block, carefully outline it with a tint tool, and then remove the surplus wood. The greatest care is necessary where the lines cross, but the beginner will be surprised at the nice work he
JFTEE
Wood
can do in this line after he has become somewhat accustomed to handling the tools. In
Engraving "
which have
appeared
"Are the
Amateur
be
benefits to
derived .from a knowledge of the art worth the trouble it takes to learn it ? " This depends, of
course,
making a block to be reproduced as a rubberstamp, cut the wood well away, and leave a good shoulder, as the ground work would otherwise show in stamping. When completed the blocks
may be
casts
intends to
make
it
the
making
is
of
Such a person will consider the papers simply a stepping-stone to something further advanced.
If the engraver
an
But there
tools
to the
are
many
can be put to that will make them of value experimenting amateur, and will enable
him to possess several articles of utility that he might otherwise have to do without. One of the most valuable ways they can be utilised is in connection with rubber-stamp making. Rubberstamps are made so cheaply now that they are used for almost every purpose but when a facsimile of an autograph, or anything similar, is wanted, the cost of engraving the same,
;
amateur printer also, the blocks can be printed from direct, and labels designed for the different purposes if not, then they can be made into rubber-stamps, the same as with the autograph. Many who have books, like to number them so as to keep record of their whereabouts. A very
;
neat
way
to
do this
is to
name
of the owner,
number
of
and have a rubber-stamp made from it. This can be stamped on the fly-leaf or inside of cover, and will always serve as a warning to the careless borrower. The advantage
book,
etc.,
added
to the cost of
rather expensive.
is
have no difficulty in producing these after he has had a little practice. The most accurate way of reproducing an autograph is to photograph it on the block to do this the negative must be
;
but he can design as he chooses, and his lettering and ornaments can be as varied as he has
ability to
draw them.
A typefounder's
specimen
book
is
a reversed one, or the finished block would be wrong. A simple way to get a reversed negative is to have the name written on thin white paper, and then fasten the paper up against the glass at the window, and photograph through the
back.
the
Initial seals
down a
sufficient to
A
to
little
oil
will
render
the
paper
so.
turn a knob on the other and plug up the hole made by the lathe
transparent enough
if it is
not already
If
be reproduced is on some document that cannot be treated in this manner, use a film negative that can be printed from either side.
not possible to use photography, the the block by means of transfer paper, although it is a nice job to do it
it
name
If
is
Eender the paper transparent, as above and with a fine point trace the name carefully, using a good quality of impression
described,
chuck with wood, cement, or putty. A fancy initial can be found in some type specimen catalogue, and transferred to the end of the block. In engraving it, do not use too fine tools, and be sure and have the cuts of a depth to correspond to the width of the lines; make them smooth and even, and a few trials with the sealing-wax will show where they need touching up. As every false cut will show in
the impression,
careful
it
is
paper.
After the
name
is
transferred to the
work
is
needed
make
the
job
492
success. so
axle,
and which
is
that
wax
it
will
not stick
to
it,
and
small block of
wood
The
electro-motor so
occasionally give
seal can
a fresh oiling.
A monogram
a piece of
K,
by
and
its
way
so that, at a
which
is
made
all
To the
that they
printer the
is
astonishing
few
offices.
clearness, is
m and
four
some particular customer would have nothing substituted for; and so useful was it to have such work done, that the foreman in one large office procured a set of tools, and now turns out odd letters and similar jobs at a moment's notice. In fact, the engraving tools will be found useful for a
great many purposes. The above suggestions convey a few of the most useful wrinkles to the amateur they are thrown out simply to show
;
The
when
the
motor revolves, the pinion wire which presses against the cogwheel causes it to rotate also, and consequently the whole piece of wood, d, together with the horses and carriages, which are suspended from it, begins to rotate.
We
and
will
of
the
;
that
it
is
may
be 16 inches square and \ inch thick, be made of deal or, better still, of
;
work
advantage of being
mahogany
its
edges, and in
able to do
wood engraving.
sides,
slit
which are
2 inches long
ROBERT
is
W. COLE.
HIS
toy
known
during the
to
and h inch wide, as is shown in Fig. 3. Then prepare two pieces of mahogany 2 inches wide, \ inch thick, and 10 inches long; fit them one into each slit, and procure another piece of mahogany of same breadth and thickness, but 1 6 inches long, and dovetail its two ends so that they will fit into the ends of the two pieces of
spring and
recreation
summer months
wood
10 inches long.
is
the
those
is
who
in
its
bar represented by c in Fig. 1 and the other two pieces of wood form the supports, b b. Do
not fix these pieces of
fit
generally driven
found
land,
will
by steam and since it is working order in all parts of our native general form and method of working
r
wood
be well known to most, if not all, of mj readers, and will not require further description. A general view of the toy, the construction of which I now propose to describe, is represented in perspective by Fig. 1, and in ground plan by The whole apparatus rests on a piece Fig. 2.
of
you will have perform some additional operations on them later on The next part of the construction of the roundabout to which we will turn our attention, this should be is the circular piece of wood, d Procure diameter. inches in 14 and thick, inch \
them
to
a piece of
mahogany about
14 inches square,
it
wood
(a a) \ inch thick
and
6 inches
square
draw a
pair of
circle 14 inches in
diameter on
with a
of
wood
(c)
passes.
A circular piece
wood
(l)
(d) is fixed
on
its
compasses, and cut out the circle of wood marked by the compasses with a fret-saw. Fix the circle of wood in the vice of your bench,
neatly dress
its
to a circular rod of
wood
which forms
49 :$
and
its
through
zinc
fretwork which
;
is
this
should
go right round the circumwood which you have just made, and should be nailed on to it so that its upper edge is level with the upper side of this piece of wood. In order that you may be long enough
to
FIG.
FIG
II.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
-
* GENERAL VIEW OF ROUNDABOUT A A, BASE BOARD B B, SUPPORTS D, ROTATING PIECE OF WOOD L, AXIS OF G, COGWHEEL E AND F, BEARINGS OF AXIS H, ELECTRO-MOTOR M, ONE OF THE SUSPENDED CARRIAGES. F 'G. 2. GROUND PLAN OF ROUNDABOUT, SAME PARTS DENOTED BY SAME LETTERS AS IN FIG. I. FIG. 3. BASE BOARD
; ; ;
;
SHOWING
LOWER BEARING OF AXLE OF ROUNDABOUT. FIG. 7. VIEW OF AXLE OF ROUNDABOUT FITTED INTO ITS BEARINGS A A, PORTION OF BASE OF TOY B, LOWER BEARING C, BAR STRETCHING ACROSS THE SUPPORTS D. PORTION OF ROTATING PIECE OF WOOD E, LOWER FLANGE H, BRASS TUBE K, UPPER FLANGE L L, AXIS. FIG. 8. SHOWING MOTOR CONNECTED TO AXIS OF ROUNDABOUT H, MOTOR AXIS OF MOTOR K, SUPPORT FOR AXIS OF MOTOR F, LOWER SUPPORT FOR AXIS OF ROUNDABOUT L L, AXIS OF ROUNDABOUT G, COGWHEEL FIXED TO AXIS OF ROUNDABOUT. FIG. 9. GALVANISED IRON BRACKET USED FOR FIXING THE SUPPORTS TO THE BASE. FIG. 10. SHOWING SHAPE OF PIECES OF WOOD TO BE CUT OUT FOR SIDES OF THE CARRIAGE. FIG. II. PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF CARRIAGE A, SUSPENDING WIRE B, NUT C, TINNED IRON WHICH FORMS THE BOTTOM OF CARRIAGE D, SIDE OF CARRIAGE. FIG. 12. SIDE VIEW OF CARRIAGE SHOWING METHOD OF SUSPENSION A, PORTION OF ROTATING ROOF C, BRASS WIRE B, NUT SECURING BRASS WIRE TO A D, CARRIAGE E, NUT SECURING D TO BRASS WIRE.
;
SLITS
CUT
IN ITS SIDES.
;
FIG.
FIG. 5.
AXIS OF ROUNDABOUT.
; ;
FIG.
6.
I.
meant by a narrow
it
strip of
revolve.
of
wood
its
(c,
Fig.
1 ),
get
is
represented by
internal diameter
drill
it is added to the circular piece of wood merely for the sake of ornament. We will now proceed to the construction of
\ inoh, and
through
it
this axle,
which
is
represented hy
by hammering.
drilled
5, is turned out of boxwood 3 inches in diameter, and should be 8 inches long. Each
then cut
off
a piece of
end of it for \ inch is turned \ inch in diameter, and both these ends are rubbed perfectly smooth with the finest sandpaper. At the end (a), which is intended to be the upper end of the
axle, a flange of
the brass tube \ inch long, and hammer it into the hole, taking care that you do not turn its
edges inwards, or
split
This
wood 3 inches in diameter, and \ inch thick, is left a similar flange is left at a distance of 4 inches from the end (b), and the rest of the axle is turned down until it is \ inch
;
Now
fix
the axle
is
thick.
The cogwheel
(g,
and measure exactly the distance between the lower end of the axle and the base board of the
toy.
against
Now
proceed to
6.
make
;
Fig. 1) is fastened to the upper side of the upper flange. will now turn our attention to the cogwheel, which is to be fastened to the lower
and the
wood
this is represented in
by Fig.
It is turned out of
boxwood,
We
large teeth
if you cannot get one 4 inches in diameter at a watchmaker's, you will probably be able to get one at some other shop, or from
;
and a hole is drilled in its centre \ inch deep, and wide enough for the end of the axle to revolve freely in it. At its widest part this piece of wood is 2 inches in diameter, and is made of such a thickness that the distance between the bottom of the hole in its centre and its lowest
from a to b in Fig. 6) is equal which you have already measured between the lower end of the axle and the base board of the toy. Near its circumference it is made thinner than near its centre, and four
side (the distance
to the distance
some other source, or with care you could make one from a stout piece of sheet brass. Having
procured the cogwheel, chuck it on your lathe, and drill a hole \ inch in diameter through its
Eemove the wheel from the lathe, and and countersink four small holes at equal distances apart on its face, and at a distance of \ inch from its centre. Place the wheel over the end (b) of the axle (see Fig. 5), press it
centre.
drill
it
at equal distances
from
its centre.
You must
now
call
it,
and
To find the
it
draw
the
firmly sciew
with small screws passed through the four holes which you have already chilled through it. Now get the circular
it
to the flange
lines across
from corner
the point
is
at
which these
lines cross
one another
piece of
wood 14 inches in diameter, and pass the end of the axle through the hole which you
have made through its centre, and glue it firmly against the upper side of the upper flange, and secure it by means of screws passed through it and the flange.
Before finally fixing the axle in its place, drill six small holes at equal distances apart on the circular piece of wood, d, at a distance from its circumference equal to 1 inch.
centre.
The
and axle
aa
is
a portion of
Having successfully completed these operations, you may now proceed to the construction
of the bearings in
by b b
in
Fig.
1),
is
495
it
to
g, is
is
is
all fix
the operations
the two supc,
may
however, four holes should be drilled and countersunk in the base of k, through which screws are passed, to fix it down to the base of the toy. When you have effected this, screw k down to the base of the toy in any position that you please, as long
down.
Before doing
them
its
appurtenances, in
ings,
see Fig.
1).
Now
fix
and then screw the lower bearing in its place, when you will find, if you have carefully
constructed
all
wood
(d, see
We
will
now return
b,
for
without shaking.
We
must
or
to
it
it
;
will
struction
and details of the electro-motor. This have its axis formed of pinion wire, should have a very small cogwheel fitted on its axis is placed in a vertical position, and
either
(o, see
Fig,
so that
when
it
be done by screwing a small galvanised iron bracket against the lower end of each support, and screwing them on to the base. These brackets should not be more than \ inch wide and, in order that you may see what they are like, one When you of them is represented in diagram. have fixed these firmly in their places with
;
In Fig. 1, the motor is represented by h which revolves in a curved piece of iron (k), is represented by I, and the whole motor is represented on a larger scale by Fig. 8, the same parts being denoted by the same letters as in Fig. 1. The motor is represented by a plain cylinder, since its form must necessarily vary according to the kind of motor which you use. Whatever form of motor you have, the revolving part must not exceed 2^ inches in diameter, because if it were greater it would come in conalso.
its axis,
screws,
you
and do not shake at all when the roundabout revolves. Tou have now completed all the important mechanism of the roundabout, with the exception of a few minor details to be mentioned prefectly rigid,
The piece of iron, k, and should be wider at its base than at its upper part, so that it can be screwed on to the base of the toy. Its upper arm must not be thicker than \ inch, and should be \ inch wide, and the distance between its two arms should not be more than 5 inches. Drill a hole large enough to contain the ends of the axle, i, about \ inch from the end of each arm, and fix the motor in its place, as represented by Fig. 8. The motor can easily be fitted in its place by turning the upper end of its axle, for about 1 inch in length, small enough to fit into the hole at the end of the upper arm of the piece of iron then pushing this end right up into its place, the lower end of the axis being above the hole
should be
cast,
;
would be best, before proceeding motor with a battery, to see if it revolves properly in its bearings, and makes the roundabout revolve also. The battery power required will be very small, and if the motor is small and well made, one -J-pint size bichromate Pour a few drops of cell should be sufficient. oil on the bearings of the motor, and if the roundabout appears to revolve at all stiffly, rub
sently
;
and
it
little
axle.
powdered black-lead over the ends of its Having satisfied yourself on these points,
to paint or varnish the
various parts of the toy according to taste, and the kind of wood which you have used.
We must now make the horses and carriages, which are suspended from the roof of the roundabout, and which rotate with it. Procure six pieces of stout brass wire 5 inches long, and cut screws about \ inch long at both ends of each
piece of wire
into
;
eight
pieces
inch
square,
drill
holes
496
AN EASEL
PORTFOLIO.
Fig. 12 represents the method of suspension on a large scale, a being a portion of the circular piece of wood, c the brass rod, b the nut which fastens the brass rod to a, d the
sheet brass.
carriage or horse, as the case
through the centre of each, and tap them so that they will fit on to the screws which you have cut at each end of the piece of brass wire. You will now require two carriages (without wheels, the latter you had of course) and four horses better buy ready made, but the former you can make yourself. Hunt about in the various toy shops in your neighbourhood until you find four very neat and well-made horses, 2 or 3 inches long drill a hole in the middle of the back of each horse, slightly smaller than the screws which you have cut at the end of each piece of wire, and firmly screw the pieces of wire into these holes. This is all that requires to be done
;
;
may
be,
and e the
nut which fastens d on to the brass rod. A few finishing touches of paint, tastefully applied, will finish the roundabout and, in conclusion, I hope that you will be successful in constructing a toy which will be both a wellworking one and one ornamental and neat in
;
appearance.
to the horses
so
we
will
now
see about
making
AN EASEL PORTFOLIO:
FOE THE DISPLAY AND KEEPING OF
DEAWINGS.
By
T
is
pended
too.
To make the
10,
carriages, cut
two
B. A.
BAXTER.
and cut a
strip of
of
go right round the curved part of Fig. 10. The two pieces of wood are to form the sides of a carriage, and the piece of iron is to form the bottom. Fasten the piece of tinned iron across the curved part of the two pieces of wood with
small brass nails, and the carriage will be complete.
was made
kind of paint that you please, and through the centre of the bottom drill a hole large enough for the screw, which you have cut at the end of
the pieces of brass wire, to pass through, and
secure the screw in this hole by screwing on to
it,
the best quality, put together with mortises and tenons, with the edges stop-chamfered, and the
whole stained black and polished. Of course, the amateur's choice of material may be either of more valuable or attractive wood, or may
simply be of deal, stained and varnished. The height of the easel is 5 feet 6 inches, and the width is about 1 foot 9 inches at the top, and
Fig. 11
;
which bottom of the carriage, d one of the sides of the carriage, and c the piece of tinned iron which forms the bottom. Make the other carriage, and fasten a wire to it in an exactly similar manner. The horses and carriages must now be suspended from the roundabout this is done by
to the
;
frame 2 feet 6 inches at the bottom ; the back shorter, be should correspond in width, but may
and should have two legs upon the ground, and not merely one in the centre, as the moving about of heavy portfolios might upset a tripod
stand.
The dimensions
2| inches wide and 1 inch thick. In Figs. 1 and 2 will be seen the general appearance of the easel, and the small front
passing the screws, cut at the top ends of the pieces of brass wire, through the holes near to
the circumference of the circular piece of
(d, see
wood
I
on frame there shown is hinged to the shelf frame front this which the portfolio is placed and the falls down in a horizontal position,
;
and securing them in their places by the nuts which you have already made out of
Fig.
1),
pictures, after
being shown,
may be
laid
down
AN EASEL
the rest in proper position, nearly upright upon the stand.
PORTFOLIO.
497
Of course, the hingeing of this front frame upon the shelf which supports the folio, makes it needful to fix the shelf very firmly and in the stand which suggested this paper, I made brackets which were glued and screwed
;
to
stiles (see
Fig.
4).
and frame there is another shelf without frame or movable arrangement, though a front frame could be easily added, as above this was intended for still another folio, which, being placed here, certainly adds, by
this shelf
;
Under
its
weight,
affair.
something to the
stability of
the
whole
our Editor
First, let
may
allow
advise
me
all
to give
one or two
general directions.
hinge turn, should always be nearly coincident with the arris of the door or flap, and frame, but should never be included within the substance of either that is, when each part of the hinge is let in as it should be and when two or more hinges are fixed on a door or frame, they should be so placed that a straight line would pass through the centres of both the hinges. This is too often forgotten by the beginner. So much, then, for general description. We will now begin the practical work. I have said the stiles and rails are to be 2^ inches by 1 inch. I had in view the probability that the amateur might use pine, which is usually sold in boards 11 inches wide, though yellow deal can be had 1 1 inches wide also if desired. If either is chosen in preference to a harder wood, it must be good of its kind. Divide the boards
;
workers that, whenbe done, especially mortise and tenon work, a centre line be imagined vertical and straight, and that a half drawing be made on a board, showing the angles and in this intersections of the stiles and rails case, the rails can be drawn with a T square, at the proper distances and to the correct widths then, upon these rails measure off the half width, or upon lines which represent the top and floor lines, mark off half the width, and with a straightedge draw both the outer and inner edges of the stiles. The worker can now go on with certainty, and will have a pattern giving data for the setting out of both stiles and rails, and which will also serve as a bevel for the angle
ever splayed
me
work
is
to
workmen do
this
left
hand, the
finger under
;
amateurs
when
they attempt
this,
but
if
the
way
saw will answer the purpose, however and care in sawing straight and square will save time and labour in planing. We can cut off two lengths 5 fee.t 6 inches for the main front, and two lengths 5 feet 3 inches for the back frame
always secure the long pieces first; the remainder
will cut
a hand-
up
and there
will
be less
of the
3).
None
The stop-chamfering may be done with chisels and planes but I' just made a V groove in a
;
my hands works
The
size of the
chamfer, but
it
is
very important to
way
be made.
and exact dimensions can be obtained from the working drawing I have recommended. The planing up presents difficulty to some of our readers, but if we try to work steadily, using sharp planes, standing well behind the tool, and trying to avoid the oommon fault of beginners, that of planing too heavily at the end
near the bench-stop,
difficulty.
The ends
be cleaned glued up.
we
shall soon
overcome the
frequently,
A hint
The
as to hingeing
of place.
flat
and when one one edge of each piece is planed properly, do not fail to mark these surfaces to and
498
AN EASEL
PORTFOLIO.
Fljoor
Line FIC.3.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG.
I.
FIG. FIG.
2. 3.
EASEL COMPLETE % INCH EQUAL FOOT. EASEL IN USE % INCH EQUAL FOOT. HOW TO SET OUT HALF OF FRONT A, STILE
;
D,
BRACKETS.
METHOD OF HINGEING FALLING FRONT, AND OF FIXING BRACKETS. FIG. 5. SUGGESTIONS FOR FINISHING ENDS. FIG. 6. SUGGESTIONS FOR STAYS.
FIG. 4.
show that they are true. When each piece is planed on two surfaces, and marked accordingly, the
When
teeth
equally long,
marked
the
any more, but are to be used as test surfaces, from which to gauge lines (with a marking gauge), thereby securing uniformity of width and thickness in each piece, and perfectly
parallel edges.
best
way
on a
Always
and time
whenever
accuracy
is
thus secured,
economised.
on the edges of the stuff, while, of course, the tenons must have their shoulders marked on the front and back.
to
be
set out
in Eig.
taken from the working drawing which I have advised the amateur to make. I need hardly say that care is needed to ensure
AN
the bevel being correct
alteration
;
EASEL PORTFOLIO.
499
When
between stiles and rails are changed, the angle is changed also. There had better be rails behind each shelf, so that, in addition to the brackets which unite shelves and stiles, the shelves may be fixed by glue, and screwed from the back of the rails. There is no great difficulty in doing all this if only effort is made to master the great difficulty of the beginner in wood- working that is, the planing straight, to ensure the work being
;
tion induce you to alter and trim your work if you do, you either fail to make good joints, or you must re-set your bevels, and set out afresh. If the advice I give is taken, and the mortise
;
mortise gauge, care in cutting the tenons and shoulders will ensure the minimum of work in
cleaning
off,
off.
Much work
to look well,
is
spoiled
is
by cleaning
polished or
particularly if the
;
surface
varnished
the
flat,
"out
of
winding," as the
workman
is is
calls
it.
smoothing plane is very handy, and so useful as be indispensable, it is often so used as to spoil the appearance of the work. If the fines are strictly kept to (and they are useless if they are
not), the
but
to a
;
a natural
of
and
rails will
wood
to twist.
The grain
scarcely require
any planing
bundle of tubes of
the less
finely.
if
we can
picture this
the better; and, in any case, the smoothing plane must be sharp, and set very
life
summer sheds
it
butts,
will
of the
we know
leaves have
nor will
it
be hard to
work, or the door or flap will not describe a In the case of our easel, the semicircle.
understand
cracks
how
movement
such care
allowed.
is is
much
less,
if in
it, if
looked
by the workman,
to see
if
a tendency
winding exists. I ought, before leaving this subject, which is important in all woodwork, to remind the reader that winding may be easily reduced without any labour by judicious cutting-out of the wood always cut the smallest pieces out of the most winding board, or the winding part of
;
In passing, the word "rule" reminds us of about hingeing, the centre of the rulejoint being exactly at the intersection of the width and length, and not within those limits,
this point
The
no other support
for the
as the defect
is
sixteenth by dividing the board into quarters. In other words, cut the longest pieces first, out of the best material at command, and let the smaller pieces be cut from the remainder, which may be less desirable stuff; economy and excellence are thus secured by foresight in
cutting out.
which the hinges permit, and no additional support has appeared necessary. If desired, a pair of struts or a frame could be hinged to the front frame, catching in notches on the stiles. The lower shelf was an after thought, to find
is
a place for another portfolio but its presence useful to steady the whole thing, and we may
;
consider
it
an improvement.
too much,
Having now
To prevent the easel from opening a web or a cord on each stile would
would look very
like a pair of
do, but it house steps and a pair of light brass casement stays would be a
;
600
NOW
TO PROCURE A PATENT.
great improvement; or, if they are objected to, two pieces of iron, J inch by inch, pivoted together by a central rivet, and at the ends with screws to back and front stiles, will answer well.
It is
HOW
TO PROCURE A PATENT.
By
PERCY
C.
R USHEN.
front frame, as
Make
falling front
;
who have thought of "good ideas as we call it, and who wish
for the
or
to
frame about 5 inches longer than width of folio as to the width, it may be made so as to fit in between stiles. The shelves are 4J inches wide, and the framing is so set out that rails and shelves mutually fix each other. The ends of the stiles of each frame that are seen can be rounded, or the corners taken off, or an ogee pattern cut in this. Be guided by the surroundings of the easel and your own
taste
;
same without
employing an agent. A few preliminary hints as to the advisability of employing a patent agent will not, I think, be amiss. If the invention is complicated, such as improvements in or relating to chemical substances, where extreme carefulness has to be
exercised in compiling the specification, I should
it
yourself, but
employ an
let
The agent should be a registered one, and preferably one who can claim experience
relating to your invention.
Do
not go to the
cheapest you can find, as, possibly, you able to patent it yourself as well as he
may be
;
but do
it
pays in the end. On the other hand, if the invention be one of those little novelties commonly called American, or simple additions to
useful articles,
of
Consul at Hankow, writing of the varnish exported from that city, says he is informed that it is the gum of a tree, Rhus vemicifera. Incisions are made
British
in this tree,
Chinese Tarnish.
The
patented nowadays, I should say that most readers of Amateur Work could obtain letters
patent for those successfully.
is
collected
There are two courses open to such a person, and I will treat both proceedings separately,
although they are essentially the same, differing only in the length of time taken in obtaining
the letters patent, beginning with the one more
generally taken, and the one occupying longer
time. First obtain one
is
and
strained, both operations being entirely performed in the dark, as light spoils the gum moreover, it must not be strained in wet
;
it
to solidify
on the other hand, unless it is used in wet weather, it will never set, but will always remain sticky. As used by the Chinese, this varnish takes about a month to dry, and duiing
the time of drying
it is
which
Forms B
by personal
kingdom
;
Eoom
order
6,
Royal Courts
in the signed,
of Justice, or
any money
office
or the
that this
gum may
have
may be
Form A On the
one of the ingredients of the famed Cremona varnish, and urges that experiments be made with it, with the view of obtaining a
varnish that will give a mellow, instead of a harsh or glassy sound, when used upon violins
or instruments of a like
two Forms B a short description of your invention must be written in duplicate, not going into
detail,
After signing
later
Patent
you
character.
Scientific
may
American.
HO IV TO PROCURE A PATENT.
and that nine months' provisional probeen granted on the invention from the date of filing. During this period, the invention or article may be put on sale or
correct,
501
occur frequently.
tection has
may
is
expect
to
This course
who have
exhibition, although
it is
best not to
make
it
publicity,
owing
to the
opposition stage
not
defiled,
having arrived.
not matured their invention, as during the nine months of provisional protection they have time to fully consider their idea, and improve upon
it if
must be
of
proceedings,
no
Forms C
(if
(Patent),
provisional specification
is filed,
but the
Form A
This
is,
and complete
is
margin
there
is
not
generally
as
provisional specifi-
be continued thus). The must be properly drawn on drawing-paper, of any number of sheets,
also
may
ordinary
way
in about three
or
four months
drawings,
if
any,
each 12 inches by 15 inches or 8 inches by 7 inches, with a ^-inch margin all round. The complete specification must be carefully
written,
fully
manner
also
in
reference.
keep
strictly to the
which case
of,
it
might be detrimental
but
if
Clerical errors
for leave
has been advertised in the Official Journal. may also be corrected by applying
thought
may be
but
on Form
(Patent), stamped 1.
what you do not limit yourself to, and what is not your invention. At the end come the claims in any number, each "covering" or
specification,
not
Your
patent expires
years, if not
fourteenth,
when
claiming
claim as
combination,
may be
and the invention become public property. The terms of renewal are fully noted on the back
of
the patent.
Suffice
to
it
to
say,
that
it
will
much
as
you possibly
can, without
cost
you 140
exceeding the limits of your invention. Weigh well every word, and think what possible advantage or use an infringer could put it
to use no ambiguities. After filing, about a month or six weeks elapses before you may
;
full time.
the
may be
obtained by filing
Form
expect to receive
stamped 2. and drawings, if any, are printed about three weeks after the adver-
U (Patent),
The
specifications
ance to
the
first,
which
Official
acceptance will
be
of
the
at
complete
published in the
Wednesday.
entered
at
may be
prior
W.C.
If
the
Patent
Office
by any
you want
to
examine
on your invention. If opposition is entered, put it in the hands of an but such opposition does not agent at once
of a patent to
;
you
Is. will have to be paid. Bear in mind that the examiners do not VOL. III. (N.S.) R R
502
certify
your
invention
therefore,
has
it
not
been
accept
when they
is
your specification
best to
ascertain,
sometimes
lists
by examining the
and
Patent Office
Free Library (open till 10 p.m.), whether the idea has been patented before. With your letters patent, you have the exclusive right to your invention, to make, sell, use, or apply, as the case may be, and can sue any person or persons doing the same with your patented invention. They may be sold, or
licenses granted
Tenoning Spokes Mortising Felloes Templet for Felloes Fitting-up Wheel Fixing TyreBoxing Wheel Painting.
s|
EFORE
%
tenon to
ing, or tanging, or
fit
under them
or
if
the
money
may
Form
who
is
the
always these
little
evident novelties, or
machinery that are commercial successes ; as in the former case, the public have an abhorrence of any combination or peculiar novelty, thinking they are frauds, and no manufacturer can be found to make them and in the latter case, the machinery is so very expensive, that a private person has not the capital. But it is those small
;
In large shops they have a machine for this kind of work, called a tenoning machine, but they are very expensive, and are only used where wheels are constantly being made these machines not only tang the spokes, but they also bore the felloes thus the spoke-tenon is a dead fit in the mortise of a felloe. A tenon-cutter has lately come out, which will fit into the drillingmachine or into a strong brace but wheels were made, and are still made, without these machines so we draw the bradawl out of the gauge, and reset it at 2| inches lower down,
the felloe.
; ;
or the
felloes.
When we
additions to useful
articles,
so
small, indeed,
old, that
that
we hardly
notice
make them,
to
satisfied that
them
they perform
wonders.
For instance,
it is
man
who thought of putting a piece of india-rubber on the end of a pencil gained 20,000 by it, whereas a person who invents a beautiful piece
of machinery, or mechanism,
which
is
likely to
be a real benefit to the country, more frequently loses than gains by it, probably owing to the fact that the uses to which it may be applied are too advanced for the present age, and peoplo
will not appreciate its merit
have marked all round with this gauge, sides and the back, we get our tenon saw, and cut just up to the tenon line, near the spoke end. Do not saw very deep, only saw the front and back. When we have sawn all a little, we fix the wheel in the frame. Now, if we are making a 1 inch or a f inch tenon, we must make a mortise pattern to fit the tenon in so we get our inch bit, which we intend boring our felloes with, and bore a hole through a piece of hard wood, something that will not split. When being driven on the tang, a piece of oak will do this piece must be 4 inches long, 3 inches wide, \ inch thick, with the corners cut off (see Fig. 9). Get your mortise pattern, place it upon the top of spoke let the mortise be over the centre of spoke hold it with your left hand, and mark out the tenon with a black-lead, or
; ;
And now
(but is only kept back by the fear that he will be rather thin in the face, and also the pocket, after visiting the lawyers), is enlightened on the
subject,
making a what you When you have marked the are now doing. tenon out square with your wood chisel, keep
An
good tenon
paring
and
that
round until you can get the mortise to go on. Of course, you will occasionally have to use your tenon saw, to release any pieces in
it
;
503
doing
to
the joints of the felloes should be in the centre, between two spokes, and each felloe resting upon two spokes. You will soon see, before you get
many
wheel
We
are
now ready
there-
would
strike
it
out
FIG. 10
PIG.
9.
MORTISE
13
PATTERN.
13A.
FIG.
IO.
FIGS.
AND
FIG. 16.
THE
TRAMMEL.
TENON
BLOCK.
FIG.
12.
FIG.
HOLE
FELLOE
DRESSED.
LEFT
IN
WHEEL.
of the frame, and upon the wheeler's trestle, face upwards. Before we commence to dress them off, we shall
fore,
36| inches
applies to
etc.
This
it
lay
it
may
shall
be.
Now,
we
to get this,
we
describe
with a trammel, or with a large pair of compasses, upon the floor. I must, however,
circle
you that the felloes which you have will be this you will see by placing the felloes, letting them lie upon the top of the tangs or tenons, and up to the shoulders of the spokes
tell
too long
an inner circle 2\ inches and divide it into six (If, however, our arcs, each arc being a felloe. wheel had fourteen spokes in it, instead of twelve, we should have divided it into seven It is from one of these arcs that we felloes.) Get a piece of deal or cut our pattern felloe.
have
to strike
circle,
;;
504
pine, \ inch thick,
arc
to the floor, so
upon
it.
that
felloe
we do
which has been upon a similar wheel to we are making. Well, if we did so, the rim of the wheel would be entirely wrong when it was finished. If each felloe was a true arc of a circle when the wheel was finished and hooped, and after the hoop had cooled down, it would, in its contraction, draw the felloes together at the joints, and instead of the rim
the one
the backs In chopping the backs, keep applying your square from the front face side, or you might make a mistake, and take too much off, thus making the one side smaller than the other.
felloes this
;
way
we afterwards chop
down
being a
it
circle (looking at it
side),
Now,
now pare the inside, or belly; this we have to do with our adze and felloe-block. There are two kinds of blocks one is the shape of a wheeler's trestle, with the two back legs high, and the front legs very short; another block is a large piece of hard wood, oak or ash, 2 feet square, and not less than 8 inches thick on the top edge, it is gouged and bevelled out,
shall
:
We
this
we
secret) by, as I
have already
said,
allowing a
A piece
of
wood
is
\ inch to every foot of wheel, so that if we are desirous of making a good and nice rim to our wheel, we cannot be too careful in setting our work out. "When we have marked our board, we saw the pattern out, and plane it up also bevel the top edge a little, so that we see at a glance which is the face side and mark upon the pattern with the chisel the height of wheel
;
;
the side of felloe and the block (Fig. 11), to keep them tight and immovable whilst the
wheeler
is
But
the pattern
is
intended for.
generally paints his patterns with
A wheeler
an amateur need not go to the expense and trouble of getting a block, as he can fix the felloe in the vice with the inside or belly upwards he must then take his square, and mark from the inner line, which is on the face of felloe, across the end or joint then, with his 2-inch chisel and lump hammer, he can pare
; ;
two coats of red-lead, and numbers them with white figures, and bores i-inch holes in them, to hang them up by, for future use. In a wheeler's shop they will have dozens hanging up for all sizes of wheels so that you will see the necessity for marking them when I tell you that between a 3 feet wheel pattern and a 3 feet 6 inches
;
down
wheel pattern
tinguishable.
the difference
is
scarcely
dis-
"We will suppose we have the pattern ready we plane up a felloe on one side, always picking the best of the two sides as a The side which we plane up first will be rule. the front or face side, and must be planed straight and true this you will ascertain by placing your trial and jack-plane on the felloe, or with the straightedge and square. When you have planed the felloe, place upon its face the pattern, and mark all round as far as you
:
Next we fix the felloe in the vice, and mark down the back and front with the pencil, and square from the bevel line which we marked at each end of pattern we get our fine saw, and saw down these lines saw all the
are able.
;
and dry, be careful that they do not splinter. In sawing and chopping, be sure always to have your square at your side, and apply it from the face side as you go on, which, as a matter of course, should always be so indicated by marking. When all insides of the six felloes have been planed with a round plane (the back need not be planed), we take each felloe, and place it in position, each felloe being upon the tangs or tenons of two spokes, and each joint meeting in the centre between two spokes if they do not fit up to the shoulders of the spokes, we shall have to bevel a little off the end of a felloe until the felloes come up to the shoulders, and meet all round. We will suppose we have all our felloes resting upon the tenons, and fitting up to the shoulders, and if there should be a little space between the joints, it will not matter; in fact, the joints should be open a
;
little
at the outside.
pencil
mark
this,
mind you,
is
50.5
felloes
"We next number the spokes should have a cross or mark, or be numbered, to denote that they fit in their respective felloes, as each felloe will only fit on its own spokes so do not forget to
;
iron.
dowels will be 3 inches long, J inch thick, round Some wheelers prefer wooden dowels,
made
best
;
number them in the order in which they come. We now come to marking the joints out for the
dowels.
of oak, but I consider iron dowels the but if oak dowels should be used, they will have to be f inch thick. After we have bored all the dowel holes, we to dress the felloes off.
commence
Looking
at
tenons have been marked out, and before the This line, which we are
almost equal
first
so
we round
file
with
see,
when
boring, in what direction the dowels, which connect the joints of the felloes, go. The pencil line across the joints should be exactly at the
centre of felloe
;
this will
be about 1J inches, or
it is
thereabouts.
joint
Mind
we want.
you,
mark across the joints and face of felloe the length of a dowel. After we have marked out all the joints, we take a felloe off, and with our square mark down on the inside or belly, and back from the two lines which we previously
marked, when the
felloes in this
felloe
all the get our gauge, and set it half the width of the felloes, so that it comes in the centre; this will be \\ inches,
way.
We
now
or thereabouts
for, of course,
we must
;
allow
for planing. We mark between the two pencil Hues on the inside and back of felloe also mark across the end of felloe from the side. We now mark again, from the back, across the end
of the felloe
sect,
where these two lines interdowel hole. When we have finished marking out with the gauge, we get our 1-inch bit, and bore, by means of the
;
thus,
there
we
brace, or with a handle fixed on the bit, used the same as an auger, mortises in the felloes for the tenons whatever we use, we only bore half
;
round this front edge, from one end to the other. But not so with the back this is, in some cases, only dressed out between the spokes, leaving, as it were, a hump, which the back of spoke fits upon. In finishing, we generally file the edge of this hump a little, just to take the sharp edge off, so that it is more uniform with the other part of back so please note that the outer top edge is dressed out different from the back. But if you will look around you, and notice any wheels, especially hand-made ones, you will see more for yourself in a few minutes than I could describe to you in an hour. We now consider the strength of the hoops which are to go upon our wheels. We will suppose that they are to be If inches wide so we set our gauge f inch mark from each side on the back of felloe. After we have gauged all our felloes, we get our axe, and chop down to We now get our jackthe gauged out line. plane, and plane down to the line; you do not plane the sides of the felloes all over, but only just so that you get them smooth (see Fig. 12). We are now ready for fixing the felloes upon the spokes, but before doing so, we fix our dowels in their places. Gret each felloe in your hand, with the back towards you, and bear in
; ; ;
mind
to drive the
is
dowels in right-hand
side, so
way through
bore the inside or belly first, and be sure that you bore within, and in the directions the lines run; place the felloe
;
the felloe
that there
upon the trestle when boring, or in the vice, but you will have to stand over it, or you will have no power in boring. When we have bored all
our mortise holes, we place the felloe in the vice, and bore with |-inch bit in the direction of the mark which we marked out on the face, across the joints bore down If inches, as our
;
and
fix it
;
to
correspond
on the tenon, or just so that it will hold until you have the other felloes fixed the same. Now get a little paint or boiled oil, and rub it upon the dowels and tenons, to facilitate in knocking
the felloes together
;
506
would be easy enough, were it not for the dowels being in the way we knock the felloes
together until the dowels catch the opposite
joint.
dowel and
we get the dowel end in the mortise we go on to the others, and get them
felloe
fit
ends.
joints,
When
the dowels
together up to the
this is nearly the
fits, we sandpaper and dust our and givethem a coatof priming colour, before sending to the smiths. As you perhaps know, the hoop is made smaller than the rim of wheel, for when it is heated it expands, and when cold it contracts upon the wheel, and in its contraction draws all the felloes close up at the joints, and the open spaces at the back of the joints become closed. A tyre-smith generally
wheels
off,
wheel-making, for it requires a great deal of patience, as when one part is right, another is apt to go wrong; but by perseverance you will overcome this
of
difficulty, and get all the felloes right up to the shoulders of the spokes if, however, the felloes are tight at the joints, and do not go quite up to
;
part
hoops a lot of wheels together for this purpose, he has a hooping stove or furnace but if he should have a set, or a pair, of small wheels which require hooping, he has a hooping hearth. Wheelers in towns make provision accordingly,
; ;
way of heating tyres is dangerous in hot weather and upon windy days but there are a great many people who still
as the old-fashioned
;
the shoulders, saw a little out of the joint until it does in doing so, mind your saw
;
against the iron dowel, or, if of oak, mind you do not saw in it. If the joints should only touch at the inner side, and a little open at the
backs,
it
and ways whereby the hooping facilitated, but will show you how
wheel
off after it
some wheelers
has
left
If
consider wheels to be stronger this way. can now fix the wheel in the frame, whilst we wedge the felloes, or this can be done on the
We
These wedges will be made from the oak which we sawed off the ends of the spokes
trestle.
;
make them
and
inch wide,
a feather edge.
wodge
pare a
spokes.
in.
little
Some
out to
then drive your saw the tenons, and show the saw mark this is
;
done before the felloes are driven on the In driving the wedges, be sure you go
you will see that the rim is charred and smoked near the hoop get your paring chisel, and pare any pieces which stick up level the rim a little all round, then smooth with the smoothing-plane, using the iron thumbplane near the tyre or hoop next use the spokeshave, and file to the joints next use the scraper and sandpaper, and file the face and back of rim. In those places where the wheels have been smoked, we rub some knotting or gold size otherwise, if we painted upon the charred in a few places, the paint would never dry
you
will notice,
;
at right angles with the edge of the wheel, and not in the direction of the rim; knock the wedges in all round first, then commence driving
hours the size will be quite dry, so we just paint over the parts which we have been
dressing
off.
We now commence
the wheel
to
Lay
them home,
the spokes;
down with
avoid hitting
as I
the joints
if
you
off,
possibly can,
have
seen
them
fly
although
the dowel
we have
fit
to hit
them sometimes
to let
Next, saw
the ends of the spokes and wedges off level with the back of the felloes then gauge down \ inch lower than the back of the felloe; plane the
;
We now get
;
joints
to level
them
at the backs.
After
we
and brace, and bore within these circles halfway, and meet at the other side when boring from the back of the nave, keep the brace towards the rim of wheel, and when boring
507
be straight.
this is
We
all of
is
now
made
made
J thick, \\ broad;
;
it
in
end
is steel
we
We now fix
;
if
the bush
when
the bush
withdrawn,
show where the bush catches. When fixing the bush in the nave for good, place a piece of deal across the back of the bush, which is apt to break if you hit it with your heavy hammer rather let the bush fit in easy than tight. Tou can now run your pencil round the top of the bush, thus marking the inside of the nave this line is to show us how far we are
; ;
allowance must be where the smith, in hooping the wheel, has not had the same facilities as a town smith, for unless the hoop is upon the felloes perfectly true, it would be impossible to get the trammel to touch only in some places. After we have finished wedging, cut the tops, and bevel off with the back of the nave. We now get our noggs cut out of the nave that is, if it be cart fashion saw a piece out from the front of the nave up to the bevel with
bush
is
in cases
upon the
generally cuts the nogg out just where this crack is. Put the wheel upon the axle or arm,
to cut
fits
in the
arm.
We,
and make the cap-hole this is generally J 3 by 2 inches, and is struck out by the compasses before the bush is put in. We now make a lot of oak wedges, 3 inches long, 1 inch broad, or as broad as the chisel you make the wedge hole with, and \ inch thick at the top, running down to a nice featheredge knock the back of the bush down within \ inch from the back of the nave, or it can be level get your cold chisel, and make some wedge holes \ inch in the nave, from and all round the bush. Now, before we begin to wedge, we make a trammel of ash or any hard wood it is so easily made, that it needs no explanation wheelers have a variety of them,
chisel,
;
you can get your linch-pin in its get a piece of ash the same size as the hole which we have just sawn plane this up a little, and knock it in its place this will be a little difficult at first, but when you have got it to fit right, get your draw-knife and spokeshave, and shape it down to the nave These noggs are only put in (Fig. 14).
and see
;
if
place
if so,
coach-fashioned naves naves have a linch-pin hole simply, nogg not being The iron fret comes over where the required. nogg would fit in (Fig. 15), whilst other naves have a hole bored through, just for a cotter or linch-pin to be dropped in the arm. We now stop all the cracks and joints with putty, and finish off our hand-cart wheels (Fig. 16) with
cart-fashioned
;
two coats of
paint.
At
grati-
fit
two or three
In fixing the
fit
it
in
wheels of your own you will desire to complete make, and perhaps lining them to accord with thoroughly by them
fied possessor of a pair of
will
work
stiffly.
We
now
fix
our
It will require
trammel (Fig. 13), the shoulder resting upon the bush, and be careful in setting the bush in the centre of the wheel, or it will " wobble " when running. If this bush is set in the nave true, the trammel will touch the rim of the wheel all round but if it only touches in certain places, we shall have to knock in our wedges, thus pushing the nave more to the opposite side. When a few wedges have been put in the back, put some in the front, but keep trying with your trammel, and when it touches the rim from both sides of the nave, then the
;
you no doubt be successful if you go to work carefully, and persevere until proficient.
Polish that will stand hot dishes is made 1 pint of linseed oil simmered (not boiled) for ten minutes strain through flannel,
as follows
:
and add \ pint turpentine apply this daily with Carpenter and a soft rag, and rub off lightly.
;
Builder.
508
SOME CHAPTERS ON
SIMPLE ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
By
VI.
J.
L.
DWYER.
propose to go through, the manufacture of the pieces of work shown in the engravings 1 to 4. I may mention that it is very convenient to have three or four little face-plates, about 4 inches in diameter, to which pieces of wood could be
glued.
Fig.
1
NOW
and another cut edge between the two flutes, the index pointer may be put on to 48, and so on, until there is a complete number of flutes round but if there is a small flat space between the flutes, a deeper cut should be taken till the edge is quite sharp. It may be seen in Fig. 2 how the flutes meet one another. It may be noticed that here no stops are requisite, for it can be easily seen when the tool takes the entire breadth of the piece, a, and the
pointer
is is
now put
taken.
If there is a sharp
tool
may be
stopped, or
its
cover.
work is turned round. But care should be taken not to move the crossat either side while the
slide
Two
box,
pieces of
1
wood are
that
Cocus-wood, or rosewood, or partridge, or any other fancy hard wood is suitable. The pieces are glued to the
little
We now take
V tool,
it
put in a pointed
give
it
so that
\ inch eccentricity, and arrange just escapes the centre of the top of
it
The
is
first
screwed on
box.
Then we
the lathe,
recess to
on the box
is
at zero of 144,
drive lathe, having index pointer and take a cut (i.e., cut a circle)
piece
off
The other
on,
is
face-plate, with piece for box stuck then screwed on the lathe, and a rough outline is given to the box; the hollow is turned
out, and a rim that will fit the cover is formed. The edge of the box may then get a finishing touch, and be moulded, as shown in the edge view, Fig. 1. There is first a bead, inch wide then a flat hollow, inch wide then an elevated ring, f inch wide then another hollow, inch wide and then the rim, about J- inch Jf wide, making up the entire inch. The cover is put on, and its edge is turned with a bead and
;
then as deep as we consider necessary. put a stop on slide-rest, and move pointer on to If the cuts go into 12, and take a second cut.
We
one another without leaving any flat between, we may go on skipping 11 every time, until the complete round of circles is finished. This will be the centre piece of Fig. 1. The outer edge
is
done in the
When
the top
is
little
flat,
surface
is
turned
like
flat.
The edge
lathe
brush with a drop of oil will polish it up nicely. The box may now be knocked off the face-plate, and a little cut off the under side, to take off the glue, will finish the job. It is usual to ornament
the inside of the cover as well as the outside, and in this case it may be done before it is
Fig. 46.
The
the
its
with
taken
Engine turning,
like
A tool
the backs of most watches, could be done by making the circle large enough to reach from
but with the point slightly flattened, put in the fluting cutter, the index pointer is
first
The it, almost to the edge. should be close together, say one for each hole, in the 144 circle. The outside Fig:. 2 is a disc for a reel stand.
the centre, or near
circles
is fluted
The
cutter takes a
as Fig.
1,
the wood.
The index
done by
METAL- TURNING.
slewing the slide-rest turning cones.
509
round
bit,
as
in
METAL-TURNING.
By
The
in
shell pattern,
shown
inside, is
done with
A FOREMAN PATTERN-MAKER.
Then the eccentricity of the tool and by means of the slide-rest handles the tool is drawn so that the two circles coincide at one point, and a series of circles is cut to that size, going into the same holes as before. Then the eccentricity is further deis
hole of 144.
VI. Mandrel-turning Wooden Mandrels Solid Iron Mandrels Conical Centres Conical Mandrel Mandrel for Turning Brasses.
this article, I
want
to dispose of all
operation
as
of
kindred matters,
boring,
aud a
corresponds in one point with the other circles, series is cut all round, and so on, until only a point remains. In fact, a shell consists of
The
little
noticed
by
writers,
is
nevertheless of
much
:
and
importance in the workshop. In most cases, the reason why mandrels are used is this In
same
work
and
decrease uniformly by turning the screw in the eccentric cutter just once for each decrease.
make
also to
run true
at a
high speed,
it
ensures,
and turn
The
made by bringing
the tool
to the centre, and putting the index pointer into holes 12, 36, 60, etc., half-way between the shells. They are simply to mark where standards come for the reels to stand on.
Of course, in
all this
work, stops must be used to prevent the tool going in too far.
afterwards, than to reverse the process. If a wheel or a pulley is bored and turned at one setting on the face-plate, the chances are in favour of their running out of truth when put on their shafts, because it is so easy to let the drill or boring tool spring a little, and if the hole is out of truth to a very minute extent, the rim being so much farther from the centre, will show very much more out of truth than the
attachments.
nuts, I put a
When
I want to
hole
when running.
It is equally difficult to
bar in the drill chuck, turn the end and the length of two or three nuts then I put the index pointer at 1 of 144, file a flat on top of the bar, holding the file horizontally; then I move round to 24, file another flat, and so on. When I come to the
;
make hexagon
so the custom
slide
it
is
first,
and then
outside.
last,
the hexagon
is
usually perfect.
These are two typical cases of a large is bored in the first place, and turned during a second chucking upon a
quantity of work that
So, in drilling the holes for engine cylinder covers, I can mark them at once, four, five, or any number. The other day I slotted a
mandrel.
invariably
Mandrels are usually made of metal, but not so. For very thin bushes, as for other
cost a
long bar of steel with the eccentric cutter by putting the bar of steel between centres, and clamping it so that it could not revolve. Then
putting
a flat-pointed
it
drill
in the
cutter,
I
it
clamped
in
the
slide-rest,
and
moved
it cut a beautiful slot. I have said enough now, I think, about the work on Figs. 1 and 2. I will reserve Figs. 3
and
mere nothing, can be turned down size, and there is considerable friction between the surface of the wood and the metal. In case of a slack fit, also, moistening the surface of the wood makes it tighter immediately. These wood mandrels are particularly useful in the turning of light castings and forgings. Fig. 21 shows a little brass dome, a,
They
very readily to
510
for a model,
ME TAL- TURNING.
which
most easily turned and b, the mandrel case driven into a cup chuck, c,
is
polished on a
wood mandrel,
being in this
shown in Pig. 24. These accumulate in large numbers in various sizes, as they have been turned down from wrought iron or steel bars at
various times to suit different classes of work.
The reason
first,
for shouldering
mandrel,
b,
for
different diameters
and second,
sometimes
PI
FIG. 28.
Fig. 23 shows another wooden mandrel, upon which a metal bush, previously bored, is driven, This is also a to be turned on the outside. convenient way to chuck iron, copper, or brass tube for squaring off the ends, as in model boilers, or for cutting fine threads next the ends for the purpose of screwing flanges on, or for
convenient to be able to drive an article like a thinnish ring, for example, a in the figure, up
to a shoulder to
keep
it
steady
b, in
when opposed
to
tool,
carrier
often easier to
to
There
it
is
driving
over,
no risk of splitting the tube in and the friction of the wood and
form
of
solid
metal
is
very considerable.
iron mandrel
is
The
typical
the lever bolted to the face-plate. Thus, for example, the lever, a, in Fig. 25, has been bored, and is driven over the mandrel, and now
ME TAL- TURNING.
both bosses can be turned and faced without any risk of their not being true with one
another.
511
mandrels must be turned to the precise diameter required, and thus accumulate, causing expense and inconvenience, various
solid
Because
devices are
made use
Of what are termed expanding mandrels, I There are several Barlow's, and those made by the forms Britannia Company. I can recommend the latter, from having seen it in use for several explain forbids now to years, but space its construction, or to illustrate its range of
cannot write specially here.
:
usefulness.
which, though they cannot in strictness come under the head of mandrels, nevertheless fulfil the same function to a limited extent. A clear
b,
work not
is
bored
shown
other.
Fig.
28.
is
solid
spindle,
can be gathered from the figure, and the centres can be made to suit any lathe.
fit
Their shanks
Two
;
loose discs, b
the taper holes in the mandrel nose, o, and in the poppet mandrel, d, respectively. The work,
e, is pinched between the cones by thrusting the poppet mandrel forward. Owing to the conical form given to a and b, the work, e, supposing
one bears against the shoulder of a, is slid along and pinched against the face of the work, d, with the nut, e. A washer, f (in this case a short length of tube), is interposed between the nut and the plate, c. The
spindle
the other
the hole to be bored, and the ends faced true, is centred by the self- adjusting property of the
cones.
particular piece of
of brasses.
figure is a pair
longitudinally,
The
friction
is
and and
at the time of
hold the work fast, and drive it. The poppet cone, b, is lubricated, so that the work may revolve upon it. These cones are
sufficient to
.
They are
set concentrically
afford
sufficient
rough surfaces
of the
useful for turning long bushes, or for cutting off piping, and for screwing the outsides of thin
of
are
and
This
is
useful
and for chasing screw-threads on tubing. To do heavy work, the tube must be embraced at the left-hand end in a grip chuck, instead of being centred over
the cone.
While held body that fits into the plummer block seating and the outside
and the flanges
in this way, the outside of the
of the flanges are turned.
fitting brasses
one,
A
more
form
of
when they are bored in position in their plummer blocks, either on a boring machine, or with a lathe tool then the plan shown in
;
moderate length, is shown in a, is formed in the solid with the shanked and screwed portion, b the other cone, c, is bored
;
is
usually
adopted.
But when,
as
is
first,
and turned
afteris
to
fit
b,
and can be
slid
along
it,
wards, then the method shown in Fig. 29 selected. In the latter case, a solid mandrel,
a,
and tightened with the nut, d, against the work. The latter, e, a pulley in the figure, having been first bored and faced, is pinched between the cones truly concentric while the
outside
is being turned. "When turning large wheels and pulleys on mandrels, the work is apt to slip. In such cases it must be driven
is
used,
rather more tightly on the mandrel, and light cuts only be taken.
embraced upon it with a band, c. The object of the band is to clip the two half brasses together. The band must be slid from one portion to another, in order to allow of each portion being turned in succession. The same result would be obtained by sweating the two halves together, and driving them on the mandrel, as though cast in one piece.
and the brasses,
b,
512
The dimensions
CLERWUS SECUNDUS.
Step
Arrangement of Revolving Cabinet Revolving Cabinet with Turned Pillars and with Desk Top.
,HE
^fflU
shown
as
it is,
of being quite
it is
each
size.
We shall then
original;
to
of space, at least, in a
each of
sizes:
1
arrangement
the somewhat
redeems
stiff
17| x 9| inches, 15 x 7
inches,
ap-
13^x5J
pearance of the cabinet as a whole. The cabinet thus arranged will take
in
The
the
ing sizes
; ;
(a) (b)
(<i)
up up up
(d)
to
to
to
up
de-
For clearness
scription, a
of
be
cut
the
Fig.
end
22,
given dimen-
similarly
must perforce be decided on but, of course, each amateur must adapt the arrangement according to the size and number of his
sion
;
which
are
is
a diagram of
The bars
re-
into the
cesses
which
are
cut
cabinet complete.
spaces
volumes.
being equal.
classified his
if
books according to size, and decided how many shelves he will need, he must proceed to prepare the framework. Let him ascertain the breadth of the widest volume, and what height is needed to comfortably accommodate the "tallest" of them; then let him cut his framework into " steps " (see Fig.
21)
;
Having
This would be a comparatively simple matter we were content to close up the end of each
would only have to be divided by seven, which would give four equal bars and three equal spaces. But it is such an improvement to the
appearance of the cabinet to mask the edge of
the framework
inch, regulates
by means
it
is
little
extra trouble.
The
by the
size of the
from the front of the step to the back. Let us now return to our sample cabinet, whose shelves will accommodate nearly all sorts and sizes of books in general use.
space covered by the bars must equal the breadth of the shelf, plus 1 inch, the thickness of the
frame.
given,
result
Hence the width of the shelf being and the inch being added, it is this which must be divided by seven.
513
5U
In the cabinet before
covered
in
are 6 \, 8,
10,
make them
venient, at
one.
It will
In the case of the top shelf (see Fig. 22), the last bar falls completely behind the shelf, being less than 1 inch broad, which is the thickness of the frame. This bar must, of course, be fastened to the frame. "With the
respectively.
least in
them
in their
to
other shelves this will not be the case, for the bars being wider, the last one will more than
be stuck together are of different sizes. They must be fastened flush at the back and righthand end, the lower one will then project
2 inches in front
and
to the left.
cover the edge of the framework, and be partially fastened to the end of the shelf.
Now
fix
be experienced in ascertaining the exact width of each set of bars, the following method will solve the difficulty Take
difficulty
:
Should any
The three
tiers
a piece of drawing paper or cardboard of, say, 18 inches square, draw a line near the bottom,
and on
less
any
convenient
They should
not,
however, be
If inch wide.
line
than 2 inches, as the bottom bars are nearly From your starting-point on the
draw a line exactly perpendicular, and to any convenient height. Draw lines from the
line.
is
a representation, drawn to the scale of 2 inches to the foot. Now find the point at which this Fig. is the exact width of
the space to be covered by the bars, and at these
points case lines
8J-,
You
draw lines parallel to the bottom. In this must be drawn where the Fig. is 6, 12 10 J, J inches wide. Each of these lines
width required for the bars.
is
above must then be fixed at the points indicated by the dotted lines (Fig. 21), and fixed on ledgers, if that be the method selected. One set of shelves will remain (one of the smallest), and this must be fixed with its upper surface flush with the top of the framework. The top of the cabinet, which in size should exactly coincide with the shelves just fixed, may then be fixed to them. Observe that the dotted lines, shown at the top and bottom of Fig. 21, refer to the shelves, not to the top and bottom of the cabinet. The latter do not appear. The bars must now be fixed to the shelves, which form, so to speak, the roof and flooring of each compartment. To hide up all the joins and screws along the front of each shelf, it is proposed to glue thereon a strip of -| inch wood, similar to Fig. 23, which is a diagram of the
strip
is
strip will
last
of course, the
needed for the top shelf. Each successive have to be 4 inches longer than the (the width remaining the same), and be
1
If
this
contrivance
reader, he
store
find
it
away
in
his
A
the
will
junction,
etc.,
is,
add a nice
but
of
The above-
The lengths
8|, 10, 12,
of the bars must be as follows and 14 inches, sixteen of each size. The top and bottom of the cabinet must now
be prepared as in the former instances, the top in this case being 1 9J inches square, and the bottom 31J inches square. Then, having prepared the thirty -two shelves, and the bottom of the cabinet being securely fastened on, the shelves must be fixed at the heights indicated by the horizontal dotted lines in Fig. 21. It will be seen that there are two shelves, one lying on
mentioned strip, however, is a necessity. Should the amateur decide upon using squares of fretwork instead of bars, the only change he will have to make will be to cut his shelves inch shorter than the lengths given, no recesses at the ends being in that case necesFour squares of fretwork of each of the sary. following sizes will be wanted 8J x 6J inches, 10 x 8| inches, 12 x 10J inches, 14 x 12
:
inches.
The
fixing of the
moulding
at the top,
and the
515
The height of the stand wdl depend somewhat upon the revolving apparatus employed,
of as
it
final
is
bottom
the
cabinet should,
skirting
when
revolving, just
one which will give our wood-turning friends a chance of distinguishing themselves. It will be a rather more expensive job than the others, as all the non-revolving portions ought to be made
of one of the
pillars at
boards which bind the Decide then upon the apparatus, and having fitted it all up, place the
clear
the
the bottom.
cabinet in position.
Now
nail ledgers
along
but apart
from
should be regarded with favour. be seen on examining Fig. 26, the cabinet proper revolves behind four turned
this, it
As
will
of
the
desk.
These
must, of
pillars,
which, of
with the
of this
book-shelves below.
The advantages
manifest
to
arrangement
planation.
are
need
ex-
First, then, make your cabinet according to one of the patterns already described, Fig. 20 being, perhaps, the least appropriate then turn four pillars, or get them turned for you. The diameter of these pillars is a matter of taste. Those shown in Fig. 26 may be deemed heavy, but, personally, I like good stout pillars. These are about 4 inches in diameter, but any size, down to 2h inches (I should not advise less), will answer the purpose. If the cabinet be of the size described, the pillars must be 4 feet 1 inch long. This includes the square pieces at each end. These might be separate, which would reduce the pillars to 3 feet 5 inches but they will be so much stronger in one piece, that the amateur is advised to have them so if at all possible. Now get eight pieces of 1 inch wood, 4 inches wide and 2 feet 3 inches long this will allow 1 inch at each end for the tenon. These must be mortised into the square ends of the pillars top and bottom, being set back J inch from the corner (see Fig. 27). The feet which form the stand must (supposing the pillars to be 3i inches in diameter) be 3 feet 5 inches long, which will allow The \\ inches for the tenon at each end. thickness of the wood can be 1\ inches, and the back corner of the bottom of each pillar must be cut away until it presents a surface of %\ inches, and the end of the foot must then be
; ;
be fixed as near the bottom as possible. Then joint up some \ inch wood, to make a bottom for the desk this must be 2 feet 5 inches square, with a notch 2 inches each way, cut out of each corner (see Fig. 28). This might now be dropped in, and fastened down, but it will add to the smoothness of the cabinet's
course,
;
revolution
if
a counterpart of
the revolving
Procure,
framework, and screwing the flange face downward on the top of the cabinet then screw the smaller flange on the under side of the bottom
;
Now
if
slide
the smaller
the
fit
in be-
tween the sides of the desk screw it down to the ledgers, and the cabinet should revolve smoothly.
It is not absolutely necessary that these flanges
it is
which latter, long enough to pass through the bottom desk, and be glued to it.
\ inch wood, If inches wide and 2 feet 9 inches long. Mitred at the corners, and fixed on the top of the desk sides,
they should be flush with the inside, and project Pound off the lower outside all round inch.
outer angle, and fasten with glue and screws.
is
mortised into
it.
Now
This
may
with
516
appearance
be
advantage
square.
far
it
as
goes)
\\ inches thick
wood
when the desk top is frame may lie close down to the rack in the space formerly occupied by the strip its width is immaterial, say 1 J inches. It must be hinged on the off side, the hinges being let into
the two racks), so that
down,
this
are broad
enough
desk,
strip.
it
and
sides of the
mentioned
the
latter
shut
down
wood and
an inkstand,
etc.
The wood
may
lie close
(say
2 inches
more each way, so as to project 1 inch all round, beyond the strip (see Fig. 30). If a rest, to prevent the book from slipping off, is deemed essential, the following is a simple way
of obtaining one:
Make
and
29.
top, as indicated
It
by the dotted
1
lines in Figs. 26
end of the "shank," and to the inner The stand will then fold away into the desk. There may be one on either side of the desk, but if a drawer is decided upon, a piece will have to be cut out of the side of the drawer, 1 inch deep and the width of the shank, to admit of the latter being folded away. I trust none of my readers will expect me to
tell
may be
them how
to
make
\ inch deep. Then procure a strip of wood to exactly occupy the rebate, and hinge it on, letting the hinges both into the strip and desk
top, so that
when
closed
it
may
lie
quite
flat,
and when raised appear as at a, in Fig. 30. We must now provide for keeping the desk Make a frame like Fig. 31, and top raised. hinge to under side of desk top, so as to allow the frame to fold away under the top (when closed), whether towards the front or back of the desk is immaterial, only the hingeing must
be done accordingly. Now make two racks, like Fig. 32, and fix to the bottom of the desk they must, of course, be fixed close to the sides of the desk, and need not extend to more than half its breadth. Should, however, the amateur wish to utilise the desk space by fixing a drawer therein, this racking business must be managed otherwise, it being essential, in that case, that the bottom of the desk be kept clear. Cut away the strip which lies under the desk top for j inch from the inner edge, and for a length of 14 inches; then cut the rack in that part of the desk side which is thus laid bare (see Fig. 33). The frame to keep up the desk top must be of inch wood, and 2 feet 6 inches long hare (i.e., the breadth of the desk plus the width of
;
I refrain from doing so for a whole variety of sufficient reasons, one of which is that I do not know how myself, or, rather, I know no more of the modus operandi than any other " constant reader" of Amateur
Woke may
learn by studying the description of any article of furniture therein described, and This being so, I of which drawers form a part.
am
me
that
too
"Ours"
is
much
valuable to be taken up by the repetition of ofttold tales and having said my say re revolving
;
cabinets, I
beg
to
retire,
other subjects.
Floweks. Use purest virgin Venice turpentine is added It must be melted in to render it ductile. enamel ware when leaves are to be made, a To bleach little spermaceti may be added. beeswax, melt the wax, and put into it sodium
white
To Make
Wax
a
wax
little
1 oz.
to
1 lb.
of
wax
add by degrees 2
with ten times
ozs. of
weight of water. Keep the After a short time, fill up with hot water, and allow the whole to cool. Wash with water, to remove any nitric acid
its
stir.
stains.
Scientific
American.
517
AMATEUR WORK
am
PRIZE SCHEME.
XVII.
is
Work's
R UL B S.
(1). All articles Bent in for
and by an amateur
is
meant
par-
workman who does not earn money by the ticular class of work in which he competes.
a
(2).
There are a few pieces among the specimens which bear signs of slovenly and hurried execution, and to the senders of those I give this counsel. Never dismiss as completed your work if it bear such disqualifications as deviation from outline, or raggedness, and want of sharpness where lines meet or
intersect
;
All articles in this competition must be received not later than Sept. 29th, carriage paid, and addressed The Editok of Amateur Woek, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C.
the
is
slight
trouble
attention for
to
these
it is
points costs,
amply compensated
when
considered
value of work.
(3).
Each
must bear the name and address of the competitor, and the number of the competition for which he enters.
article
few
These admonitions only apply to a majority, as I have already intimated, are good ; but by far the best one is a
specimens
the
(4).
Competitors desiring the return of their articles must enclose an addressed label. If the article is to be returned by parcel post, the label must the be fully stamped if by rail, the name of Railway Co. should be stated on the label. Every care will be taken, but the Editor does not hold himself responsible for articles sent in.
;
this
either
work is worthy of a place upon the walls of drawiug-room or boudoir. To the maker of this bracket, H. Balls, 4, High Mill Road, Southtown, Great Yarmouth, I award the prize of One Pound for his excellent piece of work. I append
the testimony as to age sent by his guardian.
4,
(5).
The
(6).
prize may be withheld if, in any competition, than three competitors enter. The decision of the Editor shall be final.
less
To
Amateur Work,
Illustrated."
RESULT OF COMPETITION,
xv.
XV.
Prizes
of
Shillings,
re-
THE TWO BEST SPECIMENS OF Fretwork, sent in by lads under the age of IS years. There are among amateurs a certain few
spectively,
who
themselves
trifling
beg to testify that H. Balls is 17 years of age, August 28th, 1891, and is apprenticed to a bookbiuder, The work ruler, etc., learning the whole of the branches. was done at home in evenings and mornings, siuce Part 32 published. am a bookbinder, I of Amateur Work was I have etc., myself, and the competitor works with me. from the beginning, both Old and New Amateur Work Series, and between us we find it a most useful book in many things, and should be sorry to be without it.
Sir,
preferring
plain
joinery
before
Yours
truly,
mere
with material.
work which anyone, by the exercise of patience, and lacking more profitable employment, can do but they lose sight of the fact that carpentry sometimes calls for more physical strength than many possess, or care to exert. They cannot conceive that the worker may find satisfaction in light employment if he be unable to undertake the heavier and more laborious processes. Xow, if the crux of carpentry does not happen to lie in fretsawing, yet there are good lessons to be learnt from it that is, if the amateur only will recognise and benefit by them. Not the least important lesson it teaches ia the need for accuracy and good finish, and fretwork, however simple, I maintain is always worth doing well and whether the operator make his own designs, or whether he adapt published ones, such mistakes as incongruity of detail must b? guarded against, and a good tracing of outline upon the wood be always held indispensable, if he would
to be
;
happens in the present competition that the merit of the remainder of the specimens is, in a wide degree, inferior to the best one but there is one well worthy of recognition, executed in a careful manner by a
;
Woodhouse,
the maker of this, C. H. Marychurch, Torquay, I Five Shillings, being one half of
To
St.
prize,
endeavour
deserves
encouragement,
append the
Woodhouse,
Dear
work of
Sir,
I
son,
St.
Marychurch, Torquay.
unaided
my
who
is
The
me
in preferring
one
to another.
I therefore
VOL.
III.
(N.S.)
518
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By THE EDITOR.
made
use of,
its
meaning
is
These
books are a handy source of reference to those who have apparatus under their charge, and will help them to attain
a perfect knowledge
of
electrical
2s.
science.
George
Philip
and Son,
them
to popularity.
For the benefit of those to London, E.C. whom the term Slojd is strange, I may briefly here mention that it is the name given to a Swedish system of children's education, the characteristic of which is the introduction of some kind of manual labour or physical employment intervening with and giving diversion from
the hours devoted to intellectual instruction.
It takes the
The Mimeograph. The Mimeograph Co. Imdgale Hill, E. ft This is a notion which owes its origin to the proit is lific brain of Thomas Edison, of phonographic fame
, ;
another copying machine of the stencil class, but is to be distinguished from others of its kind by the original
method
i^
such materials as wax, clay, object is to ensure, by means of healthy exercise, the development of the pupil in certain definite directions, such as pleasure in labour, a feeling of
in
its
paper by a
punctures in the Mimeograph process are made at the under side by writing with a round-pointed stylus over a
plate of
respect
for
occupation, habits of
hard steel having a finely corrugated surface. These corrugations are so minute as to be imperceptible to
ordinary vision
grain
stylus,
;
of the
fineness of their
not mistaken, tend to a perfect balance of the mental powers. I believe " wood Slojd" to be the more popular study, as it deals with a most suitable material,
I
am
may
be imagined
when
and under that head are comprised several kinds of work, is the one best adapted to Respecting the mental and physical capacity of children. this branch of Slojd, as with others, it is obviously impera-
yet covers three of the cutting points on the corrugated The stencil, when finished, is stretched in a frame, plate.
to receive
when a charged roller is passed over the The minute and frequent punctures give a
and purposes equal to an unbroken one, machine very useful for copying
It
is
and
The book
its
can be made from a stencil produced by this process, and the apparatus further possesses an advantage that others cannot offer, inasmuch that it can be used in conjunction
with a type-writer
it
;
if
evidence of
discernible,
it
and
this
an Anglicised The book is, however, a most useful one for a institution. teacher, both whilst he is undergoing a preparatory course at the bench, and when be is facing his pupils and particularly it might be used with advantage by the amateur, as he also sometimes performs simple work satisfactorily with
must be
Woodford,
maintains
ternist
The Optical Magic Lantern and Photographic Enlarge?: Fawcett and Co., Dorset Works, Salisbury
its
simple tools
when
would mystify him, although a simple method of education in constructive principles such as this book gives The price of the book is 6s. would be appreciated by him.
The Electrician Primers, Vols. I. and II. The Electrician Printing and Publishing Company, Limited, Salisbury Court, Fleet Street, London, E.G. The contents of each one of these volumes is of that quality and description which at once constitute a book a welcome addition to the library Each primer (there are of the student or of the artisan. thirty-eight in all) consists of half a dozen or so pages of letterpress and illustration, and treats of some special or
ordinary application of electrical force, or of apparatus for
the generation or control of that force.
concisely written,
The
serial articles
that
"
it
How
be read with interest by the beginner who is gathering hints to guide him in the effective working of a
ing, will
magic lantern. The Amateur. Messrs. Zilles and Co., Wilson Street, Fmsbury, London, E. C. The August part of this useful magazine contains two folding sheets, being the detail of construction for a Gothic Shrine, or, as it is called in the This shrine contains niches for text, a " Gothic Chapel." figures, and was no doubt originally intended for de-
Every paper is and easy of comprehension to the minds even of those with whom the study of electricity is a new departure. The thirty-eight primers are bound in two volumes, entitled, respectively, "Theory and Practice"; and complication of a subject is avoided by a careful employment of technical terms, and when such a term is
votional purposes
secular tastes, by the substitution of ornament for those features which constitute the religious character of the
but this must be at the will of the constructor. The likewise contains much other interesting matter, and will be welcomed by the amateur who is ever on the look out for something novel wherewith to stimulate his ideas.
article
;
number
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Revolving Book-Cases.
519
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
Amateur. The pressure of air npon " I The Rev. Brodie Mais writes finished making the revolving book- any surface is unaltered whatever con:
Vacuum
In Vessel.
Obd
writes
"
since, in reply to
my
query,
Some Where
'
your June number, to-day, and now write you to give one or two tips.' I used some old iron bed laths, three for each side, intime stead of wood strips, punched the holes
case, after the suggestion of
'
ditions exist,
vacuum
vessel is rigid
pressure
is
upset.
to
When
you obtain a
you were dispose of amateur 'b work good enough to say 'amateurs must
'
for nails with steel (3d.) punch. I used Made the nails nearly everywhere.
but the compete with professionals question ia, where can amateurs dispose of their work, provided that it is equal If you can answer to professionals ? this question, you will do me a great favour. Another matter that I want to bring to your notice is The Prize Competition.' It must tax your ingenuity to decide on subjects for competition. I hope you will not be offended if 1 suggest that you might give us turners a chance now and then. If you think the hint worth acting on, I have some specimens (in foreign
' ;
'
whole machine of tongued floor therefore, I had by me. Next, I have utilised the ence as regards its gravity waste centre spaces. I made five 6-inch if you think a little, you will perceive squares, and screwed them level with that your problem is ridiculous and the shelves outside, then cut hand impossible. The light fabric of a
;
vacuum, you have still the material of your vessel to deal with, for the fact of boards its interior being void makes no differ-
holes, one
level, so that
on a different face, at each balloon ascends in the denser fluid of I have four pigeon-holes air, but only because it contains the The lighter fluid, hydrogen, which proves for letters, papers, or money. revolving I managed most easily and that natural laws must prevail.
Magnet
to
Hold up 100
lbs.
Amber, Milford.
sions
:
Make
a horseshoe
electro-magnet of the following dimenof soft iron, length 7 width 1J inches, thickness f inch. In this fit two legs of soft iron, 3 inches in length by J inch in diameter.
Yoke
inches,
hard woods not in the trade) of inlaid work also articles in brass, both useful and ornamental, that I should like you to see, and 1 could get some of my
;
On
and
these
fit
two bobbins
of ebonite, or
friends to send
overhead ornamental
you continue giving prizes, would not models of cabinet work, with or without turning combined, be a showing what of simple method amateurs can do ? It would be very interesting if you illustrated the prizes
work.
If
them with No. 16 cotton-covered This will take about six pounds, Four 6d. brass roller: or three pounds on each leg. Two or inexpensively. countersunk in the cross legs at right three pint bichromate cells will be inangles to each other ; then a square sufficient. The cells should be much piece of sheet-iron screwed on to the larger not less than half-gallon cells bottom board of the book-case, and it should be used for such heavy work. fill
wire.
in the competition
in the price of
turns easily.
Is.
The other
castors
cost
G. E. B.
4d. for four, sheet of iron about but I had that left from a discarded
I
am
afraid, enable
to do this.
6d.,
put a screw bolt given us more illustrations and more through from the bottom of the legs, well for medical or shocking purposes articles." and the nut inside the lowest pigeon- as one of the largest size. Large coils Thanking you for your good in the hands of amateurs are useless for [In reply to this correspondent, I hole. such a purpose, and may do a deal of should like to point out that profes- hints, etc., etc."
cooking range.
sional work, particularly cabinet
ing, is
Small Medical Coll. Ameer. Milford. The smallest induction coil you can plan or make will do as
mak-
harm.
Vulcanite.
rate
from the India-rubber, titioner. Electric currents wrongly labour expended, that an amateur, Gutta-percha, and Telegraph Wire applied will do much harm instead of especially if he equal the journeyman Company, 106, Cannon Street, E.G. being beneficial. G. E. B. in quality of work, would be disIf you tell them what you require, Of heartened, and simply disgusted. American White Wood. they will give you prices. E. course, there are plenty of places "J. M." American white wood, sobut the where trial might be made Photographic Camera. called, is the wood of the poplar tree ; " J. L." London Directory will tell more than Instructions have already bass and similar woods are also sold If an amateur displays been given on this subject in Vol. II., I about that. under the same name. F. S. Morton. excellence of workmanship, there is Amateur Work, Illustrated (Old generally a circle of acquaintance who Series). We shall also publish shortly Brass Angle Fittings for Box Corners. delight to patronise, and would, no an article giving instructions for the Amber, Mil/or/I. Richard Melhuish doubt, be a means whereby to dispose making of a portable camera with and Son supply brass angle pieces and
obtain
this
compared
amount
"W.
Gartside,"
p.
416.
of
You
can
of a
electro-medical
prac-
of such
work. Ed.]
bellows body.
all
520
Magic Lantern.
:
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Or.
Parian Statuette Making. "Statuette" writes: under the "Having " I made a read an account of how the Parian following circumstances magic lantern at the beginning of last statuettes are made, I shall be much lantern season which has never given obliged if you will tell me, through I send a rough the medium of Amateur Wokk, me satisfaction. diagram of the lantern. I use a two- whether what is called slip can be wick lamp, with the flat side of the bought or not, and where, how it is The sold, and if there are different qualities wicks towards the condenser. condenser is a compound one, 3J inches of it. Has there been any instruction for a front lens I used in Amateuk Work on the making of in diameter if not, I should be the large lens of a field-glass (an ex- Parian statuettes pensive one), 7 inch focus, and put a glad of a few hints on the Bubject The reflector is through Amateurs in Council,' as the stop close behind it. the same size as the condenser. I have account I read was not a very full the first wick of the lamp the focus of one." [" Parian Statuette Making " I has the condenser, away from the same. generally had the lantern 8 feet from not yet appeared as an article in AmaEd.] the screen, and got about a 5 feet disc. teur Work, Illustrated.
"
I." asks for advice
Dynamo
for
Charging Accumulators.
may
lamps
and
it
charging
accumulators,
providing
currents,
'
'
of the current
required to charge
G. E. B.
Odour of Paint.
"
:
'
Clericus Secundus " writes "A year last Christmas I made a medicine cupboard for a relative, and painted it inside with cream-coloured paint. I have recently learned that it still smells
unpleasantly
of
not
to say offensively
fresh
(?)
paint.
Aphengescope.
"
"
W.
D.''
writes:
"Could
any of
Spots on Cloth.
:
your readers give me, through Amateur Work, information how to make an
aphengescope, and
-it-
how
iL
in
his
excellent
papers
on tbe magic lantern, refers to a box with a front lens but I cannot see "Snakes" writes: "I shall be how it is worked. Perhaps he would conkindly give a working sketch and a obliged if you will tell me, through
;
" Clericus Secundus " asks " Can any reader give a simple recipe for removing spots from black cloth such spots (a combination of oil and dust) as an unfortunate cyclist is bound to con1 tract who is denied, by 'Mrs. Grundy, the comforts of the C.T.O. tweeds?" Preserving Snakes in Spirit.
out.
little
kuow about
the
Would the
eye-piece lens of
T. S. Shaw. It is my earnest modus operandi of removing varnish desire to comply with the wish of many carrier, almost touch the condenser, or from a negative. It is very useful in- subscribers for an article on the above be a little away from it ? I shall be formation, and I have frequently had subject at as early a moment as posglad to receive any information respect- occasion to use it but allow me to add sible, but the capacity of our magazine, ing the above through the medium of to it a necessary caution. Rub as little and subjects with a prior claim to put> as possible with the cotton wool, other- lication, have precluded your valuable paper." me from giving
Removing Varnish from Negatives. serpent "Jack Horner " writes " On page 424 of Amateur Work is giveu the Bev.
:
in spirits."
Fountain.
Should the
slides,
when
in the
Bicyole.
in
"Dabbler"
kindly inform
writes:
"Can
size
effect to
my
good intentions.
Safety Razor.
:
you
fact, spirits
I have often
used
methylated
and thickness (B.W.G.) steel tubing would be used for the two tubes from bottom bracket to ball-head, two from rear hub to saddle, and one from saddle to head, for a diamond-frame safety of and also (2), 30 lbs. weight, all on what battery (size, composition, etc., of) would be best to use (I do not mind fumes, but I do elbow-grease) for 1 have nickelling, and also what salt ?
;
me what
tion
and cotton wool for local reducwhen there was no varnish on the
all."
The Rev. Brodie Mais writes "In answer to Whiskers,' June, 1891,
'
negative at
A.
W.
tion as
Star Safety Razor, price $2 (8s.), made Dixon wishes for informa- by Kampfe Bros., New Ycrk. I find follows " Whether there is a it works very well, ashore or afloat. I
Paper Pulp.
:
L.
composition of paper pulp capable of " resisting the action of boiling water ? He instances papier mache and the
production of the British Xylonite Co.
as something of the sort of material he
seeks, but
got
it
in
Manchester."
Subjects for "Amateur Work." T. A. McKee. We are at present well supplied with MSS., but I will
looked through the former volumes, but have not found what I want. I
lines of
clear,
of our put him in the way of concise directions, like obtaining knowledge of such a com-
fulfil his
note your address, and will write you when occasion arise for articles.
ront
"
521
sufficiently thin to take the required curve, and be let into the groove in the ordinary way or you may cut a rebate, and bevel the front edge. In the former case, you will put a narrow moulding round. To bend mouldings, put them into
;
EGIN by
Fig.
1,
shown
at
leaving one the thickness of stuff broader than the other ; cut the
boiling water, and bring to necessary form of curve by putting a number of nails of that curve
two shelves very accurately, and mortise them into sides, but screws will do if the cupboard is small, put in from outside. You will require a curved
piece at bottom. Cheeseboxes are useful for such
bend, and fix the moulding, and leave till dry. The panel can be linerusta, more or less decorated. The ends drop into
;
in a piece of board
purposes.
mortises at bottom of sides. Glue a few blocks at back to keep steady. The top moulding can be built up with two pieces at top, cut to shape above the bought moulding; it can be bent,
pine,
FIC.2.
Fl C.3.
and bottom rails. Let the grain run through each segment,
so that
or maybe
made with
scratch-
make a
that
as
solid
whole
see
you get
as
the grain
possible
at
straight
ends,
The
the
in
In a small
wood
then,
of
(quarter of a circle) to
work
and planing up
when
the segments
quite dry.
;
when
all
them
all
together.
the
etiles in
Glue blocks keep in position. When finished, paint with " ivory white " enamel, using it thinned down with turps for first coat. Stop all cracks and holes with a putty composed of the enamel and dry whiting (this makes a splendid stopping, but do not mix more than you want), after first painting. If a picture is on the panel, put a little gold on the surrounding moulding or bevel. Fit and screw on fancy handle and hinges, but remove them, and do not permanently fix until after painting, as otherwise you are liable to injure the enamelled surface.
sides with wire nails or fine screws.
(New
VOL.
III.
(n.s.)
522
HOW
TO
HOW
HE
of steel wire.
axle-box two-
maker of a model locomotive must be prepared to expend a great amount of labour and patience in bringing
;
The driving wheels are4| inches diameter, with crank formed in centre, as shown the leading and trailing wheels are 3 inches diameter. The wheels are inch thick. A flange is formed on each wheel to prevent them leaving the rails,
;
his
work
to a successful termination
the fitting
A inch
the
must be truly and accurately done, and, to prevent mistakes, a full-sized working drawing should be made. The model about
of the various parts to be described is 18 inches long, the driving
keep the wheels on the centre of the rails. A counterbalance is formed in the driving wheels, which steadies the motion
coning
of the engines.
wheels are 4| inches diameter, and the gauge of the rails 5 inches.
Fig.
1 is
;
model
Fig. 2
parts, looking
The castings of wheels are brass, and turned by being fixed in a four-jawed chuck, or they can be let into a wood chuck, faced, and the holes bored, and fixed on their axles to turn
the edges.
of one of the
frame
The
steel,
The frame is of cast brass two side plates and two end plates will be required the castings should be 1 inch thick, except the parts shaded
; ;
| inch diameter, inside the framing, and turned down to xs inch, where they pass through the
axle-boxes, a shoulder being formed
;
the leadleas in
ing
and
trailing
axles
dark, which should be J inch thick. The projections being on the inside, the two side plates
diameter.
should be faced, then bolted together, and the edges of the two filed up alike the end frames
;
have angle pieces cast on them, by which they are screwed or rivetted to the side plates they must be put together perfectly straight, parallel, and square. The projections at the lower end of guard plates are for the axle-boxes, which have a flange on the front and back to keep them in the grooves, and are prevented from falling out by a pin at the lower end the holes in the axle-boxes of the driving wheels are & inch in diameter, and in those of the leading and trailing wheels J inch diameter the width from
; ; ;
Each pair of wheels must be turned exactly of one size, and fixed to the axles by keys, a keyway being cut in the end of the axle, and in the boss of the wheel. A buffer block of mahogany, | inch thick, must be fixed at the front end of framing. The buffers are made of
two pieces
other
;
of brass tube,
screw
circular end of
back
tfc
inch
in the
top of each axle-box a hole is drilled iV inch deep, for a pin \ inch diameter, from the lower
end of spring.
each axle-box,
on which the
At the top end of spring a screw is passed through the projection in side plates, with a milled head, and a cap at the lower end by turning this screw, the pressure on the spring is
;
wood, J inch thick, fixed on it from the centre of this a piece of wire, inch diameter, passes through the centre of the flange in the other tube the end is screwed, and has a small nut fixed upon it. Upon this wire a coiled steel spring is fixed, which can be tighta hole is bored in the ened up by the nut buffer block for the nut, the springs are screwed moderately tight, a hook and chain is fixed to the centre of the buffer block, and a rail guard at each side (see Fig. 1). If no tender or tank is used, buffers can be put to the back end of frame. The cylinders are of brass, f inch bore, and J inch stroke. The steam and exhaust ports 1 are two-thirds full size on Fig. 5. The cylinders can be bored by any of the means already
;
HOW
TO
523
1
"=~~=
^a
\Ey
i
odd
111.
;;
Mill
524
HOW
TO
described in this magazine. The steam ways must have two inch holes drilled down them, and the two joined by filing with a small round file, also file a piece out at each end of cylinder to admit steam from steam ways the exhaust must be drilled \ inch, and screwed for pipe. File and scrape the slide valve face, and drill ports, and square them out with a small file turn up the flanges of cylinder, and scribe a
;
by bedding them
cover, then
in a
mount
The covers will be easier by turning them on a mandrel, than by reversing them in the chuck. The hole in bottom cover can be filled up with a brass plug
inch into cylinder.
true
made
The guide bars are and are screwed to the stuffing-box of cylinder, which is made to suit depth of cross-head at the opposite end a bracket is fixed to framing, with two projections to screw the guide bars to. The cross-head is formed with a groove on each edge, and a socket for the end of piston rod, which is fixed by a pin. The connecting rod is of steel, with a double end to fix on cross-head, and fixed by a bolt and nut the big end is inch square, A inch thick, and is divided down the centre, and fixed by two bolts. The crank pin is tk inch diameter, with a shoulder on the outside, to prevent the connecting rod coming off it is rivetted
centre of driving wheels.
of steel \ inch square,
; ; ;
after
it is
out of the chuck, the gland should be screwed in, and the hole for piston drilled while it is in the
lathe.
double ends
through by the drill, to the cylinder flanges. The piston must be turned a true fit, and grooved
for
hemp
if
rings are
must be in two parts, and screwed the rings must be then fixed on piston, and turned up rather
;
then
file
about
inch
being put at opposite sides of piston. The piston rod is of steel ft inch diameter.
keep the sheaves close together. The links are of steel, with two projections for the rods to fix on the radius of the link is from the centre of driving axles. A brass block must be fixed inside the link, and the valve rod is fixed to it by a pin. The links are raised and lowered by levers fixed on a rocking shaft, and connected by two links to the top eccentric rod a weight, sufficient to balance the links and eccentric rods,
; ;
The
groove
valve
elide'
is
The
shaft
is
fixed to
two
is
filed in
the slide
bearings
rivetted to
the framing.
rod
and cover are fixed by four long screws. A stuffing-box and gland is formed on one end of valve case, and a projection, with a J inch hole, drilled and tapped for steam pipe, is formed in the cover. The valve rod must be long enough to pass the axle of leading wheels, and has a double end to fit on link it is screwed at the other end, and holds the valve by two nuts. The screwed portion should be rather less in diameter than the part passing through the stuffing-box, which is \ inch diameter. A guide must be fixed for the valve rods inside framing. The cylinders are fixed to the framing by brackets, which fit inside the flanges, and may
case
;
lever on footplate
this rod must be cranked upwards, so as to join the reversing lever close under footplate. The link, rocking shaft, levers,
;
and a portion of
Fig.
5, a.
drilling
rod, are shown half full size on The slot in link can be formed by a row of holes, and filing it out.
The reversing
a bearing
is
the
HOI]' TO
525
segment, with notches on the top, is fixed at both sides of lever, and the rod drops into the notches to fix it in any position. The segments
are screwed to two small uprights fixed on the
footplates.
The
they
A piece of plate is fixed at front and back ends, and made with bevelled edges, to slide in and out.
The boiler is made of copper A inch thick made as shown on Fig. 6, which is a half sectional view. The joint is brazed, and the ends,
which must be i inch
thick, are
brazed in
but
by a brass nut, a pipe is fixed from the other end of tap, with a screwed end passing through the front end of boiler a brass collar is screwed on this end of pipe, at each side of end plate of boiler, and jointed with red and white lead, and screwed up tight, to prevent any escape of steam. From the other end of plug, a rod passes out through a stuffing-box and gland, brazed into the back end of boiler; a collar is fixed on the rod inside the stuffing-box, and, when packed and screwed up, this prevents the plug working out, and also any escape of steam round the rod. The rod projects a little beyond the gland, and has a handle fixed on, to form the regulator this works against a brass segment, marked "open" at one end, and
in the boiler shell
;
;
"shut"
at the other
end.
The
boiler
is
inches wide, 4^ inches high, and 1 1 inches long. piece of brass must be brazed inside the back
end plate of boiler, to fix two small gauge taps which are screwed in from the outside, and two small pipes carried from the taps to the under side of footplates. The safety valve seat
in,
is
fig.
sa.
REVERSING GEAR.
before the ends are fixed, the dome, steam pipe, and safety valve seat must be brazed in. Cut out two semicircular openings for steam dome, leaving a strip of plate in the centre to fix steam pipe in. A ring of brass or copper must be
A small chimney, 1J inch high, screwed on the valve seat; a rod from the valve passes through a plate fixed across the top of this chimney, and a spring is fixed on this
fixed in the top.
is
The valve
valve.
is
pound on the
brazed round the base of dome, to which it must be fitted, and screwed by small set screws, making the joint with red and white lead. The advantage of having the dome fitted in this manner, is that if anything goes wrong with the
Four brass
steam pipe or tap it can readily be got at. The steam tap is about the size of an ordinary gas tap, but the openings are at right angles to each
other
end,
into
framing by screws. it must be turned, and the base fitted and screwed to ring on boiler. Four pieces of brass, \ inch thick, must be brazed to the front end of boiler, to screw fire
boiler, to fix it to the
casting
box
to.
The
fire
box
is
made
of thin sheet
the plug is drilled so far from the small and another hole at right angles is drilled
; ;
copper, with a door 2J inches diameter, hinged on the front. The funnel is brass tube, with a
it
when
and when turned steam is cut off. A short piece of pipe, reaching to the top of the dome, is screwed into the vertical hole, and over the end
;
and base the base is rivetted to The fire box is screwed to the front end of boiler by screws, which can be put in through the door. In fixing the boiler on the framing, see that the stays bear equally, so as not to twist it, and
cast brass top
fire
;
the top of
box.
of this pipe a piece of fine wire gauze is fixed, to prevent water passing out with the steam this
is
CLOCKS.
the length of the rod has been taken correctly,
526
CHURCH
slide valve case,
;
on cover of
and meet in a
one end
is
T pipe, and the other end has a stuffing-box and gland. A pipe, with a flange upon is carried
it,
up to the steam pipe in boiler end, and is fixed by three small screws, the joint being made with red and white lead. The exhaust pipes are brought together by bends, and screwed or jointed with flanges
carry blast pipe to base of funnel.
no alteration will be needed. The two sheaves for each cylinder must be keyed fast on the shaft as soon as the proper position has been found, one being set to work backwards, and
the other forwards.
The
slides of the
;
other
same manner then fix the rods from the levers for raising and lowering the links, being careful to have the two forward and two backward eccentrics in gear at once. The springs should be adjusted when the
cylinder are set in the
boiler is filled
;
up and
cut,
and fixed by
when
the boiler
is
pressed
down
screws to the top of footplates. Two sand boxes of brass are fixed against the guards, as shown,
it
should spring
and screwed to footplates. The cab is made of thin sheet brass or copper, rivetted together, and fixed by screws to footplates and end of boiler. Split brass tube is put round the outside edges, and two round or
square glass panes in front.
The
coats of
boiler, framing,
railways
enamel paint, same colours as those on and all the working parts should be
;
kept
oiled.
A whistle may be
of boiler.
and
a screw cap for filling boiler an imitation furnace door should be fixed on the back end plate a brass box 5 inches long and 3 inches wide, with 8 burners screwed in it is
is
;
CHURCH CLOCKS:
HOW
II.
TO
TRIFLE.
ALLEN.
The lamp
Centre
The joints in cylinder covers, slide valve cases, and covers, are made with red and white lead mixed together, and screwed up tight by the set screws. The stuffing-boxes are packed with
cotton well soaked in
oil.
Wheel Escape Wheel Pallet Pallet Arbor with Attachments Pendulum Mercurial Compensation Pendulum.
HEN
sand, for
down
to
solid
The cranks
on
of driving wheels
at right angles to
will go,
and note
it
if
is full if
open
then turn
is
if
to the
open the
same
the rod
shortened or lengthened
It will
both ports
is
be advisable to use
found.
is
till
a temporary rod
till
To
the piston
end of the cylinder, then turn the eccentric sheave till the steam port at the same end of cylinder is just beginning to open. On turning the crank to the opposite end of cylinder, the other port should be in the same position sometimes a little adjustment is needed, but if
at one
;
some sort of arrangement to tell the man who is winding when to stop, which can very easily be done with an electric bell as it is not at all safe to rely on a makeshift method, such as watching for a mark on the rope, even if there is always light enough to see it, and the winding man has been told about it. When the weights do not hang from the barrel, but the rope has to be led off to a fixed pulley somewhere, it is necessary that it should be so far off, and in such a position, that it will feed straight off on the barrel, without either separating or grinding against itself; and all
;
CHURCH
CLOCKS.
527
FiC
13
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG. 6.
OF HANGING WEIGHT OVER PULLEYS A A A, FIXED PULLEYS CENTRE WHEEL AND FIGS. 7 AND 7A. B, WEIGHT C, WHEEL OF CLOCK. ATTACHMENTS A, CENTRE WHEEL, AND E, PINION WHEEL KEYED TO HOLLOW KEEP WHEEL TIGHT ON B BRASS FLANGE E, SPRING TO SPINDLE C D D, FIGS. 8 AND 9. THIRD AND SCAPE WHEELS. FIG. IO. F, LUG TO STOP SPRING, AND FORM SHOULDER FOR BEARING. FIG. II. PIN WHEEL ESCAPEMENT; A. ESCAPE WHEEL; B C, PALLETS. SECTION PIN WHEEL ESCAPEMENT; A, CRUTCH B, BEAT PIN C, PALLET ARBOR. FIGS. 13 AND 14. COMPENSATION PENDULUM A, LEAD BOB B, RATING NUT; C, PENDULUM ROD; D, IRON RULE; E, ZINC RULE; F, MERCURY IN GLASS JAR G, POINTER TO SHOW LENGTH OF BEAT.
; ;
METHOD
;
sorts of
finished,
it
Every provision necessary must be made, for I have known large clocks fixed in places where the architect left a hole in the wall for the dial, and forgot all about the
(see Fig. 6).
gotten to
was found that the architect had formake any provision for dressing-rooms
offices,
#nd other
letters
Theatre the decoration and entrances were everything that could be wished, but when
and the manager would require a room to write and make up his accounts. The rope should be made of steel wire, and
not galvanised, as that tends to
make
it brittle,
528
CHURCH
is
CLOCKS.
an inch, which make them very liable to damage, but, if perfect, will give just as good a result. The pallets must be made of steel, and the
acting surfaces
and
all
certainly no good, as
it
rusting
by coating
it
made
as hard as possible,
and
we propose
to
make
this
well polished.
wheel to revolve once an hour, so will take the hand work from it. The wheel will have 128 teeth, and the pinion 16 leaves, as they are called, and secured at each end of a short tube (see Fig. 7), a solid arbor, with a collet (a nut
escapement f full size, and you must make it exact, as I have not given the why and wherefore of the different angles, etc.
On
(p,
Fig. 11)
is
made
to
red-hot and driven on) or lug in the centre, form a shoulder, turned up true and fitted to the centre a square at each end he front one to cause the hands, or rather, the arrangement to work the hands, motion work, as it is called, and the back end to put the key on to turn them. It will thus be seen that the
;
the crutch, d, which works the pendulum, and by which the clock is put in beat. Most people
seem to know that the beat, or tick, ought sound equal in time; but most people have a very erroneous notion that this depends on the clock being upright, whereas
to
FIG. 12.
FRONT
which
the
is
done
by
letting
and secured with a collet and pin through it, the whole will revolve together
we bend
FIG. I2A.
is
going.
called the
SIDE
required.
thud, and has 120 teeth and 16 pinions, and secured on its arbor, as shown in Fig. 8.
And, lastly, is the escape wheel, with a pinion of 16 this wheel cannot be bought, and will have to be made, but it is an easy job, as it is
:
made
After giving
hammer on
it a good hammering with a flat a smooth flat-iron, cut it out with a fret saw, secure it to the arbor, or rather to a
But in the very first-class clocks it is done by mounting the pin on a screw (see Fig. 12) this is a very much better way, and is quite worth the extra time. It will be seen that by turning the milled screw on the right-hand side, the beat pin can be brought to the exact place that it is required, without any bending. The pendulum
;
will
now
9).
Now
put
it
in the lathe,
will be a wood rod, at the top end a piece of brass to carry the suspension spring, and at the bottom a brass end with a screw, and a good well-fitting milled nut, to
The pendulum
in size, and their distances apart equal, and their radial length the same. Upon the drill-
ing of these holes depends the result of the whole of our labour. Now insert hard brass
The suspension spring must have a hole at the lower end, to secure to pendulum, and a brass mount at the top, to fit in the clock, and
from which the whole is suspended. It should be about 3 inches long by 1 inch broad, and not A bit of French clock mainspring is too thin.
just the thing.
and and then very carefully file the top side halfway through, and a little flat on the underrivetted,
neath side (see Fig. 10). If you think you cannot manage this nicely, the pins can be
round, but must then be very small, say,
is to
get a piece
^ of
529
long
tit
tube of
glass
it
suitable for
fill
it
full of lead.
Be
will
is
be balanced, and the clock will be out of beat if it is turned round, which will be a never-ending source of trouble but if carefully made, nothing can be better, excepting a compensating one that is, one made of different metals, to expand and contract with the different
will not
;
temperatures.
where it be seen. It consists of a glass jar, about 8 inches long and 2 inches diameter, nearly full of mercury, which will weigh about 12 pounds, and cost about 2s. 6d. per pound. The jar is suspended in a framework composed of two brass castings, joined together by two steel rods, inside of two more brass ends and steel The inside stirrup which holds the jar, rods. must be made to slide up and down, and adjusted by the rating nut under the bridge
show,
the clock
is
fixed in a place
made by
getting a rod of steel inch diameter and 4 inches long, fitted at the top with a block to
take the suspension spring, and at the bottom with a screw of 40 threads to the inch, for a length of 4 to 5 inches from the bottom, to receive the rating nut.
If a little pointer is put on the nut, and a dial marked on the casting, very fine effects can be got, and it makes a very showy affair.
THE ELECTRIC
By
SEE-SAW.
amusenot
all,
Now get
inches long
ROBERT
W. COLE.
of
if
this tube rests a thick washer, or collar, just above the rating nut, and provision should be made to prevent this collar turning with the nut. The simplest
way
is
to file the
pendulum rod
flat for
about
have been acquainted with from our A toy which imitates a swing, earliest youth. both in appearance and in movements, is
sure to receive approbation from the juvenile members of society, to whom all moving toys give more satisfaction than those which do not
an iron tube (a piece of |^ inch gas barrel is just the right size), having at the top a cap recessed to fit the end of the zinc tube, with a
it, is
to describe
of
small
see
saw,
worked by
hole in the centre, of a size to slip freely over the central rod, and at the bottom an outer
collar, to
electricity,
end of
Fig.
1
it,
drilled
form a seat for the bob. A few holes through the barrel, to allow the air to
is
is
and having two dolls, fixed at each which enjoy the aerial exercise. a side view, and a ground plan of
completed.
b,
the
toy
when
It
consists
of
piece of
wood, b
about
12
inches long,
The bob
and 10
;
inches long, and will weigh about 40 lbs. the upper part of the hole just passes over the iron tube. Halfway up from the bottom the hole is
enlarged, so as to pass over the collar on the outside of the iron tube by this means a seat
;
which forms the base board of the whole apparatus; on to this base board are fixed two
supports, e (only one
is
is
provided in the middle of the bob, for rest on the collar (see Fig. 13).
it
to
between which the see-saw, a a, can move up and down on the pivot, f. At each end of the piece of wood, a a, are fixed two seats, c and d, and a piece of stout wire, e, is fixed from one edge of this piece of wood, and is fastened to a
cog-wheel,
g,
The mercurial compensation is seldom or never used for church clocks, as it is no better than the steel and zinc, and is much more expensive
;
against
the
circumference
of
still,
which a piece of pinion wire, forming the axis The axis of the of the electro-motor, revolves. motor revolves on two supports, l l, and the
530
FlC.
FIG.
I.
II
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
IN GROUND PLAN THE SEE-SAW WHEN FINISHED A A, PIECE OF WOOD FORMING THE SEE-SAW B E, BASE OF TOY C, SEAT FIXED AT ONE END OF SEE-SAW D, SEAT FIXED AT OTHER END OF SEE-SAW E E, SUPPORTS OF SEE-SAW F, PIVOT G, COG-WHEEL H, MOTOR K, CONNECTING-ROD L L, SUPPORTS OF MOTOR M M, PIECE OF WOOD TO WHICH MOTORS, ETC., ARE FIXED. FIG. 2. BASE BOARD OF TOY, SHOWING SLITS CUT IN SIDES IN WHICH THE SUPPORTS OF THE SEE-SAW ARE INTENDED TO BE FASTENED. FIG. 3. SUPPORT OF SEESAW. FIG. 4. SHOWING UNDER SIDE OF SEE-SAW WITH GROOVE AND PIECE OF ZINC NAILED ACROSS IT. FIG. 5. SHOWING PORTION OF BASE BOARD AND SEE-SAW A A, SUPPORTS OF SEE-SAW B, PORTION OF SEE-SAW C C, PIECES OF BRASS TUBE WHICH FIT OVER KNITTING-NEEDLE, AND WHICH ARE FIXED ONE ON EACH SIDE OF B. FIG. 6. PIECE OF METAL CUT OUT TO FORM A SEAT. FIG. 7. SEAT WHICH IS FIXED AT END OF SEE-SAW. FIG. 10. SCREW WHICH FASTENS THE COG-WHEEL ON TO ITS SUPPORT. FIG. II. SIDE VIEW OF SEE-SAW OF MORE ELABORATE CONSTRUCTION A A, SEE-SAW B, FLAG C, ELECTRO-MOTOR D D, SUPPORT OF SEE-SAW E E, SEATS FIXED AT THE END OF SEE-SAW. FIG. 12. ENLARGED VIEW OF SIDE FRAMES. FIG. 13. PIECE OF WOOD FOR FASTENING TOGETHER TOPS OF SIDE FRAMES. FIG. 14. SEE-SAW MADE OF TIN-PLATE. IN
REPRESENTING
; ;
SIDE VIEW
AND
whole electro-motor, together with its supports and the cog-wheel, g, is fastened to the piece of wood, M m. The action of the electro-motor in working the see-saw is very simple when the motor revolves, its axis, since it presses against
:
The first part of the apparatus which we will make is the piece of wood which forms the base
Procure a piece of deal or mahogany, i inch thick, 1 foot long, and 6 inches wide, and on the middle of each side cut a slit 3 inches long and \ inch wide, as shown in Pig. 2. Next prepare two pieces of deal or mahogany, 8 inches long and 3 inches wide at their widest part, and neatly screw each of them into the
of the toy.
the cog-wheel,
g,
causes
it
to revolve also,
and
to
331
two
When the zinc or brass will do equally well. has been nailed on to the see-saw, it should be painted black with Aspinall's enamel, and set on one side to dry. In future, for the sake of
convenience,
we will speak
of this piece of
wood
as the see-saw.
is
6 inches
wide, and two supports, inch thick, are let into distance between the inside faces of it, the these two supports
is 5
inches,
these holes
this
knitting-
needle,
axis
is intended to be the upon which the see-saw moves up and down, and it
needle
one
support to the
6 inches long.
must be
tube,
Propieces,
passes across the base board from one support to the other.
and cut
1
off
two
each
inch long.
Now
take
now proceed to make the piece of wood which forms the see-saw. To make this, procure a piece of wood
will
We
and \ inch thick; plane both sides smooth, and neatly round off its edges then draw a line across the middle of it, and draw a small rat-tail file backwards and forwards along this line until you have cut a small groove along it, which is deep and wide enough for the knitting - needle, which was
broad,
g.
wood forming the see-saw, and the piece of zinc which was nailed across it, and pass
it
through the hole which you have already bored at the top of the support, through one of the pieces of brass
tube, then through the groove
in the
FIG.
8.
SIDE
see-saw, and finally through the second piece of brass tube and the hole which you have drilled through the other support. You will then VIEW OF ELECTRO-MOTOR AND find, if you have followed
previously mentioned, to
into
;
fit
wood
on a
MECHANISM WHICH CONNECTS IT WITH THE SWING; A, ELECTRO-MOTOR B, SUPPORT OF ELECTRO-MOTOR C, COG-WHEEL D, PINION WIRE ON AXIS OF ELECTRO-MOTOR E, SUPPORT OF COG-WHEEL F, PIECE OF WOOD TO WHICH THE SUPPORTS E AND B ARE FASTENED G, CONNECTING ROD.
; ;
;
see-saw will
move up and
knitting-needle,
either
left.
down on the
without
slipping
to
In
it
;
end
of the groove
and nail it with small brass tacks on the piece of wood across the groove and knitting-needle laying in it. Fig. 4, which represents a portion of the see-saw, shows how the piece of zinc is nailed across it, the groove being denoted by a a, and the piece of zinc by b c d e. The piece of zinc you can easily get at
off its corners,
fixing the see-saw on the needle, the side of it which has the piece of zinc nailed across it must be placed so that it faces downwards. If you have any difficulty in passing the knittingneedle through the holes in the support, a few blows from a hammer will readily fix it in its
place.
clear,
Fig. 5 will
make
the
mode
of fixture
or, if
you do not
happen to
live
see-saw being represented as looked down upon from above the supports are represented by a a, the see-saw by b, and the knitting-needle and brass tubes by c c.
;
532
Having made yourself quite sure that the already been described are exact, you may now proceed to the construction of the seats placed at the two ends of the seeTo make saw, and the dolls which sit in them. the former, procure two strips of tin-plate, 3 inches wide and 7 inches long cut them into the shape shown in Fig. 6, making a b 2 inches long, b g 3 inches long, and o d 2 inches long, and cutting away from b c a strip of metal \ inch wide then bend the two end pieces, A b and c d, right round, so that they are at right angles to b c, and you will then have two pieces of tin-plate shaped as shown in Fig. 7. Now
; ;
can be tightly
fitted into it
by hammering
be
off
it
any
at
bend
Having done
and
it
;
this,
make
the wheel
its
revolve,
drill
hole
right through
centre
by holding
hole
against
another
centre,
fit
remove it from the lathe, and drill through it \ inch from the
this hole so that a screw will
and tap
it.
brass,
the see-saw,
point
pieces,
a b and
c d,
them
and firmly secure by means of small brass tacks you will thus have fixed a seat at each end of the see-saw, in which the dolls are intended to be placed. "We must now proceed to procure the two dolls you can get these at any toy shop they should be about 8 inches long, and should have tolerably stiff backs. Place one in each seat, arrange them so that
in their places
; ; ;
get two small pieces of sheetthick and 1 inch square solder inch i one of these on each side of the centre of the wheel, again chuck the wheel on your lathe,
into
;
Now
drill a hole \ inch in diameter right through the centre of the wheel and these pieces of The object of fixing these pieces of brass.
and
bearings.
may be shaped
1
wheel should be about 3j inches high, and in the same manner as the support of the axis of the motor bore a hole
;
they have their backs turned towards the centre of the see-saw, and firmly fix them in their seats
with glue, and, if necessary, with additional straps passed round their bodies and the back
of the seats.
inch from the top of this support, procure a screw on which the cog-wheel will revolve truly, fit the cog-wheel on it, and screw it into
the hole which you have made in the support. This screw will form the bearing on which the cog-wheel revolves, and should be screwed so
far into
We
may be
will
attention
to
the
construction
the
electro-motor
it.
and
the
The electro-motor
revolve on
at all.
the support that the cog-wheel can it freely, without slipping along it
fix the
diameter.
support on to the base, to which the electro-motor is fixed, and allow the teeth of the cog-wheel to press against those of the pinion wire which projects from the support
of the motor this can be easily done by passing long thin screws right through the lower part of the support and the piece of wood to which the motor is fixed. The machinery, as far as we have now proceeded, is represented in
;
Now
on a piece of wood long enough to contain it easily, and 6 inches wide. Fig. 8 represents the electro-motor a is the revolving magnet, which should not be more than 2 inches wide b is the support of the axis of the motor d is the axle which projects outside the support, b; and Q is the connecting rod. Now get a cogwheel about 3 inches in diameter, and if it does not already possess a hole through its centre, drill one inch in diameter. To do this, you
; ;
ground plan that is, as looked down upon from above, by Fig. 9, the same letters being used for the same parts as in Fig. 8, with the
exception that
and k denotes the screw which fastens the cogwheel to its support. Now place the electromotor on the base of the toy, so that the centre
533
it
down by two
steel,
Now
or of
any other material which you may find suitable, and shape it as is represented in Fig. 10, where the head of the screw is represented by a, and the part on which the screw is cut is represented by c; this screw must be made to fit into the hole which you have already drilled and tapped in the cog-wheel. Now, if you have removed the see-saw, knitting-needle, etc., from
their places, in fixing the electro-motor replace
be required to cause it to move up and down to effect this, remove the connecting rod by taking out one of the screws, and prepare a piece of sheet brass about 1 \ inches square, and drill a hole through each of its corners ; then observe which end of the see-saw is uppermost, place the piece of brass upon it, and slide it towards or from the centre of the see-saw until
;
it
is
accurately balanced
mark
its
position
and screw it down by four screws, passed through the hole which you have drilled in the corners of it. Of course, if you find that on disconnecting the connecting rod, the seesaw is exactly balanced, there will be no
exactly,
them, and
at
fit
all.
see-saw which
when
the see-saw
is
it which is above the electro-motor comes in contact with it, the screw, which is in a horizontal position, and turn the cogfitted into the side of the see-saw, must be wheel round until the hole, which you have moved further away from the centre the seedrilled through it, is in a position midway saw will then have less swing. Before drawing this article to a close, I wish between its highest and lowest positions, and measure exactly the distance between the centre to add a suggestion for a see-saw of more elaborate construction, but having the same of the screw, fitted into the side of the see-saw, machinery as the one which I have already and the centre of the hole drilled through the side of the cog-wheel, while the cog-wheel and described. Fig. 1 1 represents the side view of see-saw are thus placed. Then procure a piece such a see-saw a a is the piece of wood of sheet-brass, about \ inch wide, make a small forming the see-saw is is a flag which is fixed dot at each end of it with a dotting punch, and on the centre of the see-saw c is the electric make the distance between these dots equal to machinery, which needs no special description, the distance which you have already measured since it is the same as that which has already between the centre of the screw, fitted into the been described d d form the framework which side of the see-saw, and the centre of the hole supports the see-saw, and which is cut out of drilled through the side of the cog-wheel. \ inch material by means of a fret-saw. At When you have made these dots, drill a hole each end of the see-saw, there are placed through one having the same diameter as the elegant carriages, E e, made of tinned iron, screw which passes through the side of the seepainted over with enamel paint. For the sake saw, and through the other dot drill a hole of future reference, we will briefly speak of the having the same diameter as the thick part of framework, d d, as " the side frames." the screw, represented by Fig. 10. Now unTo proceed with the construction, prepare a screw these two screws, fit the piece of brass on piece of wood, about 14 inches long, 6 inches to them, and screw them back in their places broad, and \ inch thick, to form the base board and when you have done this, you will have of the apparatus. Next make the side frames formed a connection between the cog-wheel and these are represented on a large scale in Fig. 12, the see-saw, which will cause the see-saw to and should, as was previously stated, be cut move up and down when the cog-wheel revolves. with a fret-saw from J inch material you will Only one thing now remains to be done before require two of these, and they should be exactly the toy is completed, and that is to balance the similar in shape and in size their extreme see-saw, so that as little power as possible will height should be about 7 inches, and they
the end of
equal
2 inches.
Now
place
the
see-saw
534
should, be
A FOLDING BOOK-REST.
frames should also be coated over with enamel paint, and, I think, would look best if done in dark blue or yellow ochre. Tou can, if you
please, procure
about 1 foot long. In the part of each side frame, denoted by letter a in Fig. 12, a small hole should be drilled two more holes
;
some small
dolls,
and
fix
them
Sandpaper both, and if they are made of some hard wood, such as walnut or mahogany, polish them, and with small screws fasten one on each side of the base board of the toy then turn two pieces of boxwood, shaped as is shown in Fig. 13, each 6| inches long, and make the thin parts at the end of each J inch long, and of such a diameter that they will readily fit into the holes, b b (see Fig. 12), which you have made in the side frames then press the two side frames
;
on to the seats with pieces of thin wire, or with string. The base board of the swing, if of
mahogany, should be polished if of deal, or any other soft wood, it should be stained and
;
varnished.
The see-saw
is
is
now
complete
I hope, not find any difficulty in constructing In conclusion, I will add that the battery power required for this toy is very small, being about one h pint size bichromate cell, or a
will,
it.
1
cell.
pieces of wood,
and
fit
them
and
them
some
string, so
A FOLDING BOOK-REST.
By
wood are glued firmly into them. Now prepare a piece of wood to form the see-saw, mount it upon a steel knittingneedle, passed through the hole, a (see Fig. 12),
that the pieces of
in each side frame,
of brass tube, exactly as
A WORKER.
design a book-rest
a piece
which shall be simple in construction, firm enough when in use to remain steady under the weight of a large volume, adjustable to almost any slope, and which shall be capable of being folded up and packed away along with portfolios and other flat objects.
inch in breadth being bent over, as is shown and a brass tube very slightly larger
Some
than the knitting-needle being soldered across the middle of the underneath side. The carriages, represented
by E e
in Fig.
11,
should
be made of tin-plate, soldered into the shape of a box, having an aperture at one end, and having seats, also made of tin-plate, soldered across them from side to side. These carriages should then be fastened on to the ends
also
of the see-saw
;
who possess the skill of the accomplished cabinet maker, and who are ready to bestow a consideramount of time upon their work. In the system of construction which I recommend, solid rectangular pieces of prepared boarding will
able
if
the see-saw
is
made
of wood,
they can be nailed on with small brass tacks, and if of metal, they can be soldered on to the
The
electric
machinery used
is
exactly of the
weight will greatly conduce to the steadiness of a book-rest while the only joints required will be formed by means of glueing and screwing combined an operation which, if properly performed, will result in making the joints the
;
The ordinary cheap folding book-rest for the such as we see in the shops, is supported by means of a leg, or prop, hinged to the top
table,
course,
be coated with enamel paint, the colour, of varying according to taste; the side
will rest
A FOLDING BOOK-REST.
horizontal rack.
535
By
this
is
former
at
much
variety of adjustment.
and running in directions at right angles to the fillet. These two fillets greatly stiffen and strengthen the stand, because they run
right angles with,
its
be made short enough for low angles, it will not be long enough for steep ones, and if made long enough, it cannot be adjusted to low angles without a length of rack which would be inconvenient and clumsy in appearance. After some consideration, I have concluded that the
best plan, avoiding elaborate construction,
is to
grain;
their
thick-
former
fillet.
In these
fillets
shown.
To form the
saw-cuts, at intervals of 1 inches, is made, and the teeth are then cut with a chisel. It would
detached props
low slopes
working
two pairs
of racks.
be useless to continue cutting the rack teeth any further inwards than is shown in the diagram, because, if the point of support were brought nearer than half-way towards the front, the desk would be unsteady this is the reason why
;
enough.
The desk
attached to
is
of the
similar fillets, with racks under side and the desk and stand are hinged together, as shown. A fillet, 2 inches wide, is hinged to the lower part of the desk, running along the whole width from side to side this fillet forms a ledge upon which to rest books, and it is clear that its efficiency depends upon two things strength of hinge, and thickness. The thicker it is, the less will be the strain exerted by leverage against the hinge it may finish about 1^ inches thick. There is a hinged flap at the upper end of the desk, which, when opened out, increases the length of
;
the desk, so as to
SECTION' OF FOLDING BOOK-REST.
make
it
When
;
allowed to
it
fall
shown
in the diagram,
serves to
obvious that
by employing a longer
table, is
prop,
The
stand,
simply
keep open the leaves of a book its width will, therefore, be regulated according to the sizes of books most likely to be used. The props, only one of which is used at a time, are simply pieces of ^ inch planed board with
bevelled edges, of sufficient length to take their bearing in the racks, and of such widths as are
finish | inch or
in thickness.
The grain
of the
from
from front
dimension from front to back is required to be more than lOf inches, cross- tongued wood must be used. Along the front edge of the stand is fixed a wood fillet, about 2i inches wide by f inch thick. The fixing is done by means of strong
screws and glue, the latter being allowed to flush
into the screw-holes.
Gelatine
Tin.
liquid
which on cooling solidifies, and forms a tough substance which is unaffected by petroleum. It
produces, also, a
rollers,
compound
Two
other
fillets,
each
about 1| inches wide, are attached to the upper eurface of the stand, close to its outside edges,
but water must not be employed to cleanse the surface, although petroleum or benzine may be freely employed. Scientific American.
536
ivory push
IT.
is
The reader must not think that the ordinary push, seen in the optician's shop window, is
the only kind manufactured
;
the
last, especially,
AYINGr
reader
serve the purpose of the who, having made his bell, wishes to connect it up in a satisfactory manner, it may be useful to consider the construction of the important factor, the push. The "push," or "press button," is nothing
likely to
and colouring, and have an excellent appearance. Figs. 38 to 42 represent the better class of push sold by Messrs. Gent and Co., whose catalogue, price 4d., it would be well for the reader to ha^e, as it contains valuable information, and its numerous illustrations will give him an idea
of the construction of electrical apparatus to date.
up
more
than a contact
maker
Fig.
35 gives a sectional view of the ordinary push, and shows the principle in the simplest form. It consists of a brass spring, a, to which is fastened one wire, which is bent upwards. A round stud, for making contact by pressure of the hnger, is
Th e commonest and most familiar form of push known to the ordinary reader is shown in Fig. 37,
and
is
it is
turned in
mahogany
spring,
stands,
it is
simply the wire cut in two, or the current On pressing b, to form contact disconnected.
Pushes made in porcelain, when fitted in a drawing-room, look very handsome, and are really ornaments to the room. Usually a back
of
wood
with
is
o,
the line
is
joined, as
it
On removing
through which the wires pass, and are fixed to the contact pieces, which are screwed to the
The points of contact, between the under of a and upper side of c, are generally
platinum, so as to
especially careful,
its
when
tipped with
contact.
ensure
good
may be
Another view of the internal arrangement of the push is given at Fig. 30, which shows the base with the working parts. The screw top, with the press button, having been removed, a is the upper spring, which is screwed down at the one end by two screws the other is raised about or i inch c is the under piece of brass screwed flat to the base. The two contact pieces, of course not touching d d, are holes bored through the
;
made when
is
not desired, and the circuit completed, causing the bell to ring until the battery
exhausted,
ruined.
He
are
and possibly damaged, or even should also see that the contact
pieces
tight,
is
and
pressed.
base for connecting the wires to the spring. The cotton or silk covering is removed from
the wires intended to be connected with the push One for J inch, and the metal scraped clean.
Sometimes the bell will begin to ring before the the cause of is properly screwed down this will be that the contact pieces are not sufficap
ciently apart.
wire
is
Another form of push is that especially adapted for outside use as a house-door bell
(Figs. 43, 44, 45).
and 36 then the screws are screwed firmly down. The same is
;
in Fig. 37,
and described
in
then the
537
a hole at
the wires, in
addition
to
being
twopence.
c,
Saw
off
the screw,
line,
b, drill
i
by the
screws, are
pushes are generally adopted. Fig. 46 is a simple pull, constructed by the writer to act temporarily for his front door, but
a inch diameter brass or iron rod it will then be as in Fig. 48. Cut a piece of inch sheet-brass, say 2 inches long, 1 inch broad, and bore three holes
fit
shown by dotted
and
;
no
it
through
is
it,
as
which proving satisfactory, was retained, and has been in action for some time. A is a brass knob with a
brass rod,
b,
shown in Fig. 49 the middle hole work in, the top and bottom
;
to the door-
passing
After lacquering
the knob
and the
;
very passable
plate, as
the
shown in
is
Fig. 49,
simply
for appearance.
rest of the
The
ism will
difficulty,
mechanpresent no
the con-
shown in
electric
Fig. 46.
The usual
push
door
for
is
b,
to
front
To the under
constructed
principle
50.
on
the
When
is
the knob, a,
in,
pressed
the
fastened to the
f.
under end of
On the
pull being
FIC
FIG. 37.
4-1
FIC4-0
CREAM AND FIG. 38. CHINA PUSH. FIG. 39. FIG. 40. WHITE OR BLACK CHINA PUSH WITH
WOOD PUSH.
FIG. FIG.
AND CHOCOLATE OR CREAM CHINA ^he Spring bringing 42. POLISHED BRASS PUSH. FIG. 43. FRONT DOOR FIG. 45.- -front the rod, b, back into 44. ANOTHER FRONT DOOR PUSH.
FIG. 52.
GOLD
;
end of the rod, c, tipped with platinum, comes against a platinum point, or plate, d, which completes
the
circuit,
DOOR PULL.
A, PRESSEL
;
LUXURIOUS
C,
B,
COKD
ROSE.
its
original position,
and breaking
is filed
the
lower spring,
f,
the spring
so as to
make
a short knifelike edge, which, by its scraping action on e, tends to keep the point of contact
clean,
Of course, the point or plate at d is insulated from the metal work of the other parts
circuit.
of the push.
effects of
the
The ordinary
the same
pull,
weather.
On
form of con-
way
The reader can easily make such a front-door push for himself. Obtain a small drawer-knob, such as shown in Fig. 47 it can be bought for
;
On
d d, thus closing the circuit when the hand is removed, the spring round the rod, b, pushes
vol. in. (n.s.)
tr
538
back
and breaks the connection. Of course, the spiral b, disc c, and its belongings, are entirely insulated from d d. The pressel, a, Fig. 52, is very suitable for bedrooms it is pear-shaped, as in the Fig., and has the push at the lower end of the pear. The terminals are placed in the rose, c, which is affixed at some point in the wall near the ceiling, from which the line wire proceeds to the bell.
;
in contact with
The line may very possibly come some conductor of electricity, which will cause the current to flow in a wrong direction, stop the action of the bell, and waste
advantages.
The
pressel
is
by
a bell-rope, b, made in some fancy pattern, through which the wires are carried. This is a convenient form of push, and is very
useful in case of sickness, for the contact spring
in
it
may be diffiand the ringing of the bell be weak and uncertain this may happen by the line crossing gas or water pipes, bell wires, etc., or not being properly insulated from damp walls, wet floors, etc. As regards the line, a damp atmosphere must be guarded against, especially where the battery is placed in the cellar, and the line passes along
the battery
;
cult to detect,
may
occur,
the house.
Although
it
may be
carefully preserved
from
by
the pressel
;
The
interior
construction of
is
its
on presscontact,
phere
make
and the bell rings. As the pressel is difficult to make, even if the reader has a lathe, it is better to buy this part, which can be obtained for Is. 6d. and upwards. Sometimes instead of a pressel being used, an arrangement similar to an ordinary bell-pull it consists simply of a lever to which is adopted one wire is joined, and a contact point which communicates with the other wire. On the lever to which the bell-pull is attracted being pressed down, contact is made, and the circuit is
:
Again, the presence of steam will have a and this, it should be remembered, will be so not only at the actual moment of the
similar effect;
and be prejudicial even when the bell is not in action, and the circuit is open. However, if the reader thinks that the expense
of covered wire
is
able
number
of amateurs
may do, he
should try
completed.
may be
is
called
a switch,
shown
in Fig. 53
is
a contact point
he will find that the bell will continue to work satisfactorily, provided the places through which the line passes are dry and warm if there is
;
and bell, b is a contact point connected with No. 2 line and bell, and c is connected with No. 3 line and bell. The lever is joined up with the battery, and is in the drawing in connection with No. 2 bell. On being moved to a or c, the current is directed in either direction Fig. 54 shows sectional view. Lastly, it will be necessary before concluding, to give the reader some hints as to line wires, and
1 line
;
damp or cold, difficulties will arise. The writer has had a bell and
indicator at
work, the line wire being uncovered, which have answered satisfactorily for a considerable time
but the air all along the line wire is dry and warm. A pound of uncovered wire, such as mentioned above, would cost about 9d. a pound of cottoncovered wire, of 18 B. W. G., can be bought for
;
2s. 4d.
This
is
equal to 47 yards.
Again,
G., a
if
W.
pound
should certainly, in putting up the line for his electric bell, obtain well-insulated wire, as the plain uncovered wire is subject to many dis-
would
cost 2s.
8d.,
yards.
run through
to be well adapted to
tlie
all
As a guide
to the reader,
below
walls, or in
damp
by
render suitable for line wires. The following list is founded on a comparison of the prices of standing firms engaged in the manufacture of
electrical
percha covered wire is required, but it should be fixed where it will not be exposed to heat or the sun, or in very dry places, as the covering
apparatus
Ko.
1
is
B.W.G.
,,
20
22
24
to the
,,
number
:
of
yards
Uncovered.
18
45 SO
47
85
20 22
120
162
a-uarantee
therefore, the
131
176
24
98 per cent.
of
amount
of leakage
very small.
If a practical electrician
were putting up a he would use line wire prepared according to the most approved method, and specially adapted for the purpose, that is, endeavour to obtain, as far as possible, a good conducting medium, preserving at the same time good insulation, thus ensuring the satisfactory working of the battery by preventing
set of electric bells,
leakage.
The following
Messrs.
extract,
by permission, from
catalogue,
entitled
Gent and
Co.'s
"Instruction to
workmen employed
let
in fixing
him
manner work
:
in
which practical
of
electricians
do their
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
is
" It
FIG.
all
The
34. PRINCIPLE OF PUSH. FIG. 35. SECTION OF PUSH. FIG. 36. FRONT VIEW OF INTERIOR OF PUSH. FIG. 46. FORM OF PULL FOR FRONT DOOR. FIGS. 47 AND 48. HANDLE FOR PULL. FIG. 49. BRASS PLATE FOR PULL. FIG. 50. PRINCIPLE OF PUSH FOR FRONT DOOR. FIG. PRINCIPLE OF PULL. FIG. 53. FORM OF SWITCH51. CURRENT FROM DIRECTION OF ARROW MAY BE SWITCHED TO EITHER BELL. FIG. 54. SECTIONAL VIEW OF SWITCH.
-
work, in dry places, and for connecting doors and windows with burglar alarms,' or for sig'
nalling in case of
fire,
its
and in time fall some extent prevented by being covered with cotton, but we recommend
This
may be
to
540
for
warm or exposed positions a specially propared wire, in which rubber and compound forms the insulating material, the outside being braided or taped. For ordinary house work, we prefer to lay for battery wires No. 18 or 20 copper-covered, to No. 14 or 11 with guttapercha, and an outer covering of cotton, which
battery wire applies to the line wire. " Where a number of wires are to be brought
down
to
may be
buried
in the wall, or a
wooden casing
we
plan
is
easiest in fixing
and
for
The making
it is
alterations
and additions.
wires
how many,
or in
what
is,
"
Where
wall,
The reason
la
may
be more perfectly covered, and made secure against damp. This is of the utmost importance
in the case of battery wires, as the current is
alwaj's present,
and ready
to take
advantage of
any
defect in
"The
wires.'
we
call the
'
line
rest of the
house wires
important,
is
although the current is only present during the time the finger is upon the button, and the bell
ringing.
For
line wires
we
no case allow more than one wire in the same staple, and do not fix the staples to touch each other. In many cases electric bells have been an incessant annoyance and complete failure through driving the staples tight up to thewires, and several wires in the same staple this must not be done on any account. A number of wires may be twisted into a cable, and run through a short piece of gutta-percha tube, and fastened with ordinary gas hooks where it is an advantage to do so. In running the wires avoid hot-water pipes, and do not take them along the same way as plumbers' pipes. "Underground wires must be laid between pieces of wood, or in a gas or drain pipe, and not exposed in the bare earth without protection,
;
an outer coating of cotton well varnished. and cheap work No. 22 be used.
short lengths
For
may
and cause a
loss
in fact, in this, as in
"In
union
best protection
be made must be carefully uncovered for the distance of about an inch, the ends of the wires to be joined well cleaned and tightly twisted together. Get fine solder in strips, and with the flame of a candle or spirit-lamp, heat
is
when held
on
it,
having
first
;
put a
little
powdered resin
lip on it
as a flux
on an outer covering of tape or braid. No. 20copper may be used for short longths, 18 or 16
for long lengths.
piece of gutta-percha
and place upon it while warm, and with the aid of the spirit lamp and wet fingers, mould it round until a firm and perfect covering has been formed. On no account
use spirits in soldering. " With the line wires
sible, to
it is
Hooks
or staples
must be well
is
galvanised,
and
fixed loosely.
If the wire
may be
used, but
the
pipe
must
be-
water-tight."
best, as far as pos-
The
with
same
carry
it
all
the
way from
;
the push to
all
of course,
when
much
makers, but the difference is not so as to seriously affect the amateur's pocket
. .
541
.... ....
5/0
7/6
TOWNSEND.
Blowing
Joints-
HEKE
is
12/0
6/0
No. 20 No. 18
8/0
worker the trade of gasfitting, but simply to give such instructions as will enable anyone with a little mechanical ability to fit up
a house for himself. I have
simplified the
..
..
12/0
worker will
find
but
little difficulty
7/0 to
8/0
x -
9/o to 11/0
13
13
to 18/0
For
this reason I
frequently adopted, has the wire from the positive pole of one colour, and the return or negative
making a few simple tools for work, which will also be found useful for
is
a great advantage
line, especially if
other jobs.
We will suppose
floor,
can always recognise the wire he wishes to pull It is also an advantage to use double wires in the form of two bound together as a single
viz., back and and wants an extra light, say for bed-room. First measure what pipe will be wanted % is quite large enough for single lights; then get the pipe. The next thing
front,
on the first
and
will
be
it
well prepared
this
but
if
of inferior preparation,
to the
form of wire will be found to be a perfect nuisance, as leakage and contact will be constantly occurring.
First
all
main supply which runs to the pendant. take a nail punch (Fig. 1), and punch down
and
if
the nails on each side of the board to be the boards are either dowelled or
raised,
Here the two copper wires are insulated from each other, and bound together as one line with
This line, as the reader will readily understand, is neat in appearance, and has the advantage of the double insulated system. The price is from 8s.
per 100 yards for 22 B.W.G., and 12s. for No. 20. One cotton and one india-rubber, 9a 6d. per 100 yards. In conclusion, the writer believes that if the
to 10s.
so as not to
split
cotton, then
run through
paraffin.
"When this is done, prize it up with a chisel bar, and drive the chisel bar under until it rests on the sides of the two boards adjoining (see
Then, with a tenon, or, as it is often back saw, cut the board through over the joist, so that when the boards are put down again, each will have a bearing on the joist. Sometimes it is convenient to cut the board on
Fig.
2).
called, a
joist,
it
as
shown
at a, Fig.
2.
When
;
be necessary to nail a piece of wood on the joist, for the board to rest on either way will do, if the board is put down Having got the board up, so as not to spring.
this is done,
will
nothing but dismal failure, for which result of his labours he will have no one to blame
"but himself.
saw pieces out of each joist to admit the pipe, or the joists may be bored, similar to Fig. 3,
with a twist
Fig.
bit,
4, for this
542
543
is
Now proceed to put the plugs in the wall for one or two brackets, as the case may be. There are two ways of doing this, viz., cutting out the
mortar between the bricks, and driving a
flat
compo
when
carpets are
being nailed down. It is a little more trouble, but is certainly a better job. Having got the board up, and joist slotted or bored, prize the skirting-board back at the point where the pipe is to come through for bracket, Pass the pipe through, and carry a, Fig. 6. over joist until it meets the main supply about a foot from outlet of pendant. Now round the end of pipe with Fig. 7, closing tool, and scrape clean after that, cut a hole in pendant supply pipe, round it with taper end of tool, and fit the smaller pipe in, Fig. 8. Now blow the joint; several things are used for joint blowing, viz., double-wick candles, rushes steeped in tallow, a spirit-lamp, etc. I prefer the candle, as being handy, but if the worker chooses to make a lamp, similar to Fig. 9, this may be made from gas tube A is A inch cap, n piece of \ inch brass tube screwed into cap, c, and well soldered, c screws on to d, which contains methylated spirit, in which is soaked a piece of cotton wick the wick passing through b, the cap, a, prevents evaporation when out of use. This is a very handy tool, as there is no fear of blackening the joint when making it, but it is by no means indispensable, as most old hands prefer the candle but whatever may be used, take the lamp or
;
wedge in (Fig. 11), or cutting a piece of brick out, and filling up the space with a square piece, like Figs. 12 and 13. The latter is the soundest
job, but if the fiat
plug
is
then
Having
both of
done
this,
up
to one or
These elbows can be got either in made from tube I prefer the latter. They are tinned at one end, and screwed the other. If there is any difficulty in getting either one or the other, a good substitute may
(Fig. 15).
cast-brass, or
;
be made as follows get a piece of % brass tube, screw one end about A inch down, and then file bend it down to a nick in, as shown in Fig. 16
:
form a mitre
joint,
then soft-solder
it
they are
solder
Now
on
to the pipe,
and/when the pipe runs ou'side the plaster, they must be grooved, as shown, to fit over the pipe but where the pipe is let into the plaster, this is
;
not necessary.
the pipe into
it,
If the plaster
is
a broad chisel, or plaster cutter, similar to Fig. 18. may be used for cutting the plaster part of a 16 or 18 inch flat file will do
;
the right, and the blowpipe (Fig. 10) in the mouth. Now blow a clear, steady flame on to
the joint to be soldered, keep putting a
rosin on with the strip of solder, and
little
hammered out and hardened, letting it down Having blown (Fig. 15) to a blue in temper. into "compo pipe," screw the block (Fig. 17)
if
when
the
is hot enough the solder will flow round wherever the joint has been cleaned for that purpose. Be careful in blowing not to smoke the joint. The copper bit may be used for this purpose, but it is not so handy as the blowpipe, nor will it do as good work still, if tho worker likes to use it, see that there is a good
pipe
then white-lead it, using 1\ inch screws the end of Fig. 15, and screw the bracket on, not forgetting to first drill either two or three holes
over
;
in bracket back
or
inch screws.
that
Fig. 19 shows
the skew
is
it is
shapes of hooks for pipe. Fig. 20 shape, and looks the best, but Fig. 21
the old
handier,
Having
soldered
it
in,
now work
it
thoroughly
hands for this purpose, and be very careful to have it level under the boards. If it is not so, water will lodge in the lowest parts during cold weather, and cause jumping lights.
straight, using both
and can be driven with the hammer. Fig. 22 shows a hook drift, made of steel, and hardened. these are turned Fig. 23 shows a tan pin from boxwood. Further instructions in the methods of fixing will be given next month.
;
544
METAL-TURNING.
METAL-TURNING.
By A
VII.
FOREMAN PATTERN-MAKER.
Boring Drills Drill Plate.
are three methods of boring in
turning of the poppet hand-wheel feeds the drill forward, along with the slide-rest. The flat bit is not suitable for boring a hole
through
readily.
|HEEE
D bit will do so employed for enlarging and finishing holes already cored or punched.
solid
metal;
the
The
flat bit is
( 1 )
that
in
is
which the
drill
or
boring tool
pinched in the tool-holder of the slide-rest, and the work driven by the headstock (2) that in
;
Blocks of wood are often screwed upon the sides from of the bit, and turned to prevent the bit of consequence in which, running out of truth,
its
it is
apt to do.
which the tool is driven round by the headstock, and the work secured either upon the saddle of
the
slide-rest,
or allowed to take
its
bearing
upon a boring flange fitted over the nose of the poppet mandrel (3) where the tool is carried in a boring bar or head running between centres, and the work is supported upon the saddle of the slide-rest. It is to the first two that the present article will have reference. The first method is employed more than the others in the average run of work, and there is a considerable difference in the tools and the clamping arrangements used thus, for drilling and boring, any of the common drills and bits are used, the diamond and twist drills, the flat and D bits, the solid boring lathe tool, and tools held in various holders. The chucks employed may be any of the ordinary jaw chucks, both independent and universal, or bell chucks and angleplates. With short work these are sufficient,
;
as ended, two bits of different sizes on one stem, and shown in Fig. 30; this economises steel When the flat bit is being thrust store space.
forward to its work by the poppet centre, it is prevented from rotation, due to the friction between it and the work, by means of a boring These are formed under various slight rest.
modifications
is
a form suitable for a small lathe This is a casting, slotted 32. a at a, to receive the flat bit, and provided with
;
shown in Fig.
b, to fit
stem,
into a
common
socket-rest.
What
;
provided with slide-rests, but with socket-rests made also, in these lathes, the top bar, c, is separate and adjustable, in order to allow the
In rest to receive tools of various thicknesses. a lathe fitted with a slide-rest, a boring-rest,
like that
shown
because the
holder,
drill
and
so fed forward.
The
bit,
Fig.
31,
work
is
guidance, owing
The
some form of fixed steady. The common form of diamond drill is not so well adapted for lathe work as are the other
plate, or in
types.
The
and the
adapted for cutting tough materials like wrought-iron and steel, but it serves well on crystalline cast-iron and brass. The D bit, on the other hand, being a true cutting tool, takes off continuous shavings
flat bit is not well
of the
drills.
common
in
used
is this
of the slide-rest,
the rest, or
is,
and fed along to their work by by the back poppet. The slide-rest therefore, in either case left free to move
is
The D from the fibrous metals and alloys. In slide-rest. the in clamped bit is best had bit the socket-rest, a only having lathe a better be driven forward by the poppet, and have a flat filed somewhere on its shank, to be embraced by a lever (Fig. 33), upon which the
turner will exercise pressure with his hand, or hang a suitable weight.
down
to the bed.
A countersunk hole
is
clamped formed
of
is
34.
The slow
the rest.
The
between
it
ME TAL- TURNING.
and the typical turning
on the
axis, a b
545
tool
is,
that
its
cutting
is,
that
in order to
its travel.
cut
more nearly
it is
in
being true, and the angle-plate true, and one face of the work to be operated on being true, another portion of the work can be tooled either
parallel or at right
the direction of
Where deep
clamped in
it.
better
with a tool-point
The shank
in the slide-rest.
angles with its first true depending upon the position in which it is Thus, having the foot set upon the angle-plate. of a plummer-block planed true, we want to bore the bearing bolt the foot to the face, b, of
face,
;
A
1
1 1
II
II
II
III
uzi
a
F C 30.
I
FIC.36
aa
c
\
A nmiHiiiiu
|
n
Q,
FIC.35
B
1
FIC.32.
FIC.3I.
The work being bored is held by the various methods already described in previous articles there is, however, one very common method of holding work for boring, not yet mentioned, and that is by means of an angle-plate, Fig. 36. Now, a great deal can be done with an angle;
and adjust the angle-plate by its slot-holes until the centre of the bearing coincides with the
centre of the lathe, and
it
plate.
It
is
planed
all
over,
in
order to be
sufficiently
slotted
face-plate
chuck a cross-head like Fig. 37, the one of the bosses might be bolted against face, c, of the angle-plate, and the boss, b, be faced and bored up for the piston rod.
Or
to
face, a, of
546
The
bored,
the face,
having been faced, and the hole then secured by means of this hole to of the angle-plate, while the hole, c,
face, e,
SOME CHAPTERS ON
SIMPLE ORNAMENTAL TURNING.
Sy
J.
and the bosses being true, and the angleplate true, the two holes are certain to be at right angles with each other. Work of this kind when heavy produces a jerky motion in the lathe, due to the unequal weight of the mass about the centre. When this happens, a counter-weight is usually bolted to
for the cross-head pin is bored,
faced.
L.
DWYER.
The
;t|
IGr.
box or other
and its position is so adjusted as to equalise the mass as nearly as possible. When a piece of work is so long that it cannot be held steadily enough during boring by the dog or other chuck, then its opposite end is supposed by a contrivance usually a cone-plate boltedto the bed of the lathe. Isay "usually," because the cone-plate is not, by any means, the only contrivance employed in workshops for if we have to bore a cylinder guide, obviously that is
done round with the fluting cutter but the star the principal ornament it is also made with the fluting cutter, and is rather a difficult piece of work. Three stops are required, namely, a depthing stop, and two for the cross slide.
is
;
First turn
cutter,
with
V-tool, in
up the blank, and then fix the fluting its spindle vertical, and a nice sharp the tool hole. The tool ought to be
it
The
direction pulleys
come
it
into
and advance
it
until
fix
has cut
bent round to embrace its upper portion only, where the principal thrust caused by the tool occurs the lower end of the strap is bolted to an angle;
the
wood about
;
A inch deep,
then
the depth-
ing stop
fix also
tool cutting
a stop which will prevent the back further than the centre of the
is
work
bolted in turn to the lathe bed. But work of small diameter, the cone-plate is a neater appliance. Its holes afford a moderate range in diameter, and since all of them alike, when uppermost are central with the lathe centre, there is no tedious adjustment necessary. The drilling-plate, slid over the poppet nose,
plate,
33,
sufficiently
star.
for all
Withdraw the
should be at the zero of the 112 row of holes. tool now, put the index-pointer to
is
drilling.
It is
very conin
venient,
saves
some
trouble
made.
Now
simply held in
by the hand, and the drill gripped in a drill chuck. There is no trouble in resetting, and the feeding is done by
turning the poppet wheel.
and
so on,
on
to 21,
Now
the long ones, fix the stops, then put the pointer
2 holes before zero,
will
be
To Polish Deebiioens. Scrub with a brush and sand this will have the effect of clearing away all the dirt and loose fibre. Polish with rotten-stone and rouge, using a cloth finally varnish with copal varnish. Scientific American.
;
we
just cut.
Go
to 2 holes before
and so
on, not
changing
the stops until this complete round of 16 rays of equal length are made, one at each side of the
BOW
long ones.
28,
TO
547
Then make
;
shorter
To cut toothed wheels, a cutter is made for the fluting cutter, just the shape of the space
between the teeth. The blank wheel is mounted on a mandrel, or on a wooden face-plate and the spindle of the machine being vertical, it is
;
and
so on
and, lastly,
make
a series of
still
0, 14,
and
whole job the depthing which prevents the tool from goiDg back beyond the centre of the work it is only the front stop which regulates the lengths of the rays that is changed. Judgment should be used to have the rays decrease as uniformly as possible in length.
stop remains fixed,
and
advanced horizontally, until it cuts out a tooth is put on, another tooth cut out, and so on. This is easily done in brass or gunmetal. The size of the teeth will have a relation evidently to the size of the wheel and the
;
Fig. 4
is
for a pincushion,
and
is easily
made
but it shows a different kind of work to any we have seen yet. The blank is first turned and hollowed out, then 4 deep notches are turned all
round, about \ inch apart
are mounted.
;
For example, find the size of a cutter for teeth of a wheel 2 inches diameter, and with 40 teeth. Circumference of wheel is 3-1416 x 2 = 6-2832 inches now there are 40 teeth and
number.
;
40 spaces,
or about
i.e.,
80
divide 6-2832
by 80 =
-07854,
of
the
band
is
taken
off
may
Amateur "Wouk
from ornamental
_^
turning
as
The
and non-
made
done in a peculiar way. A pointed tool is put into the cutter, and it is brought to the centre, as it revolves then if the point be inserted in a piece of wood, and the tool drawn along, it will cut a furrow. The up and down nicks are done by this means. There are 1 bricks in each row. For the first row the pointer is put into zero of 100 circle, then the tool is put into the top ridge already turned, and it is drawn across until it enters the second ridge the pointer is then put on to 10, and another nick cut, and so on all round. The
is
; ;
HOW
this
Article, see
the
Folding Sheet
1EEHAPS
S$) I
the
first
strike
some
of
my
they see the above heading, is that the writer did not go quite far enough, and should have made it, " How I made a Whole-
second row of bricks is done the same way, but care is taken to begin at 5, and then go on to 13, that the bricks might break the joint. The ornamentation between the bricks and the base is done by putting a round-pointed tool
in the eccentric cutter,
and keeping
of
it
at the
Camera out of a Second-hand Cigar-box." These are people who proceed to criticise everything but let me assure my readers that the above can, and has been actually done by me. I do not say that this camera is made of the best mahogany, nor the bellows of morocco
Plate
;
centre
start
from 95
the
circle
100,
and
leather
work
5,
then skip
till it
neither, on the other hand, is it paste; board or any such rubbish but it is of pine, and is as perfect and decent-looking as anyone could
;
then
wish.
skip
5 again,
go on through
10,
cutting an
not
may be
cut with
cheap double slide, as I thought that by waiting a while I could get a good one for less than the amount charged by most makers.
open
548
HOW
TO
he had an odd slide, which he said, if it suited me, he would let me have for 6s. Needless to say, I jumped at it. This, then, is the initial " Oh, but," says expenditure for my camera. the critic, " where do you expect us to get a
chance like that
secret in it."
? I knew there was some Well, surely, double slides are not to be had new every day for 6s., but they are, however, for 10s. and 12s. each, and of the block form even a shilling or two less (Messrs.
was about
say Archer
to say
;
Adam -perhaps
it
is
as old as
I had better
applied, except
by
18 inches,
and the
like.
made
not being
much
at these prices)
Talbot and Earner, of Blackburn, will give them but, then again, a good second;
hand
slide is not to
be despised.
hand at dovetailing, I merely halved one piece, and glued it to the edge of the other, screwing it also through the halved piece from the top. The next part was the falling front, which
corresponds to the tail-board in most cameras.
When
grow under my feet, but soon had taken a picture in it. I was determined to have, if possible, all the usual movements to my camera, if they did
not
of
This
this
cleats
made of f-inch stuff, planed down, with tongued and grooved on the sides thereof part and the bottom are made in one piece,
is
make much
difference
so after a
good deal
The bottom,
consideration and
planning, I arrived at
the camera
now under consideration. I have contemplated improvements on this camera from time to time, but have concluded that as it now
stands
it is
hinged to the falling front, and glued and screwed on to the bottom of the boxbody but, before being glued, the hole for the
when
cut
off, is
is
Constructing a reversing frame to suit the seems rather like building a house because one has a chimney-pot but I did not find the least trouble about that. I had to make the reversing frame from my recollections of a former
slide,
;
one, once
my
now many
:
miles distant.
first,
The frame
fits
is
made
in three parts
which
forms, with another frame, the rebate then the two pieces which form the rebates for the dark slide to fit in. (Please refer to the drawings for
sizes
parts,
and
and also the groove the top side of the bottom is hollowed out round the edge of the groove, so that the head of the camera screw slides along above one piece and below the other. The screw is never taken from the tripod head, but pushed up into the hole, and slid along until it can go no further, and then clamped in the middle. There is no fear of the camera and stand coming asunder, and much time is saved in pulling the screw in and out, and screwing the nut off and on each time this plan is as good as any patent catch, and much cheaper. The falling front being hinged to the bottom,
;
thoroughly master them, unless, of course, you are already well acquainted with reversing
frames.)
and the
is to
latter
off
trim
In the double
slide
that I
was fortunate
enough
to
get,
push the camera, only small portions of the rebates were left, the other parts being cut away, which was a great improvement as,
slide into the
;
and make them even all round. Next we have the movable platform or focussing piece, which corresponds to a rack and pinion arrangement which is not at all
indispensable;
it
is
instead of having to push home the slide 10 or 1 1 inches through its groove every time, and pro-
equally as good focus can be got without it in fact, I never feel the need of such an arrangement. It is a very ordinary affair, being simply a plain piece of f inch
bably often shifting the whole camera, they were merely laid on and pushed about or 2 inches,
tongued and
stuff, clamped with grooved ends, and running in rebate pieces, the rebates being neatly cut out
; ;
HOW
TO
;
549
they are
with a cutting gauge these rebate pieces are glued and screwed on to the inside of the falling
front, latter
way
as
to
keep the
inserted,
In this fois
of
which runs up and down the groove cut in the falling front, and is screwed up to keep the board from shifting when the focus is obtained. We now come to the brass-work, and we must
a square one is easier made, but the taper one is very little extra trouble, and has the additional advantage of looking prettier it is also lighter, and may be
;
make
which
or
front
folded
up
is
into
marvellously small
space.
made mine,
but, of
There
no great art in making the bellows only a little care and caution are required.
First, get a large sheet of
This
ance as shop ones, but do the work just as well. is the way I made them I procured two
:
mark upon
it
the top,
strips of sheet-brass,
and
drilled a
row
of holes
along each piece touching each other, and filed out the space neatly afterwards the strips thus
;
prepared I soldered on to hinges of the same width, which were then screwed to the corners of
or, rather, to the clamp that screwed and glued on to the focussing piece. These hinges, with the aid of the milled screws,
produced perfect
These hinges fold and therefore lie perfectly flat, and take up no room. I have since formed another idea for the hinges, which I show in the drawings as an alternative design in this case the brass is left solid, and small
rigidity.
down one
be careful to have it and not askew at each side mark off the sides same size as the top then at the sides of those mark off rather more than half bottom on each side the odd measurement over is to form the piece to be lapped and glued. When these measurements are drawn out, we have a diagram like that shown in the drawings, and ft has to be ruled for the folds 1 inch apart and the whole paper must be glued to the calico with a mixture of good thin glue and treacle, about three of the former to one and a-half of the latter when
;
brown paper, and long and the large end, and GJ inches
16 inches
this
has nicely
set,
slots
over the work to the pencil lines alternately, forward and backward this is a little awkward at first at the corners, but when we have well
;
when moved
begun,
on.
it
it
gets easier,
all is
and continues
so as
we go
taking
dry,
tightened up as usual.
The screw-heads
When
will suffice to
smaller, but very small screws keep the front in place. I also give a design for a wooden hinge to those who may prefer them they are intended to be made of fret wood, and have two small hinges to each.
;
much
out,
up and down every second one, and with the fingers and thumb "pinch up " the
edge
;
this, to
incomprehensible,
plished.
one who has not tried it, is rather but may be easily accomthese are done, glue the bellows
it
It
flat
When
into place,
and keep
flat laths,
and
to
be short, so as not
to
hinge
plain,
it.
This front
it
fit
may
be
the flange
of the lens
or the hole
may
be, as in
my
case,
is
the focussing
made
other lenses
future time.
we
possess or
Now we
merely four pieces mitred and glued, and additionally strengthened by a sawcut cleat at each corner. This frame will, of
is
This
5.50
course,
same distance
will
as tbe
be kept in place by small pieces of sbeet-brass, screwed diagonally on to the corners. This glass may be bought for 6d. or 8d., but you may easily make it simply get a pennyworth of flour emery, and gradually shake it into an old jam-pot three parts full of water in such a manner as to have
dark
slide,
all
the help
I will only add, that one side of my reversing frame is wider than the other, because of the make of my dark slide. Messrs. Watkinson and
Lonsdale, of Leeds, will supply the brass-work
at very
skim off the fine stuff, and go over with this on a plain piece of glass with some hard substance, such as a block of flat marble,
grains sink
;
low prices.
tin rolled
an old chimney-piece, or a bit of sheetround a wood block, until you have ground it just beautifully. By-the-bye, frost
bit of
that
is,
concave
;
there
is
you
will soon
ALLEN.
no object, the best way
of the lantern sellers
;
be quite proficient in this ten minutes will do the edges will require the the whole thing
;
HEN money is
is to
most consideration, as the work in the centre is heavier, and that part becomes worn in a very
short time.
buy limes
difficult to
and
to
it
is
very
get a
box
of reliable
Now
frame
hinged
first-class
work.
is
Why it
and which throw it back on the camera when raised up. These I did not attempt to make, but anyone used to sheet-metal work would find no difficulty in doing them. A small button at the bottom keeps the focussing glass in place, a pair of clips keep the reversing frame at the top, and two small plates of brass keep it below two small clips hold the falling front up when closed, and two brass staples and a leather handle on top complete the machine. All that remains is to blacken the whole affair inside with lampblack mixed up with gold size mis it well, and do not let the size be too thin stain and polish all the outside to imitate
made
making
very simple,
enormous.
is
Now, here
cerned. I believe
possible to
make
and
a gross, per-
and
this includes
The
price paid
by
per gross
that
is,
eleven shillings
There
is
to use
1),
walnut.
about 1 inches high and f inch in diameter, with flat ends and inch hole in the centre. To make them for common work, such as limelights at theatres, tableaux, etc., simply saw the
limes into little squares, drill the hole, and round
4J inches without the slide. The reader will observe that lenses of any
focus shorter than whole-plate
up with a file or a knife. But for first-class work this would never do, as if the hole was not
in the centre, or
it
may be used
is to
it
if
the lime
is
all
would,
when
in the
And
in a
551
worked for the entire length of the entertainment without once opening the doors for any
purpose whatever.
once suggest themselves for improving and simplifying the apparatus, one of which I will
explain,
which
no
for
making limes
is
experience to
first-class
make
as
turner will
squares. This
may
in a week.
be done without measuring, by securing two or more saws together, thus guiding and saw-
On the bed of the lathe, near headstock, have two plates or a little casting (see Fig. 6). In line
nc.
i.
FIC
.0.
o
ric. *. C.2.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG.
I. ROUND LIME WITH HOLE IN CENTRE. PIG. 2. FLAT LIME TO FIT IN HOLDER. FIG. 3. SPINDLE WITH WHEEL MOUNTED AND HOLE THROUGH TO TAKE DRILL. FIGS. 4 AND 5. CLUSTER OF SPINDLES TO MAKE A DOZEN LIMES AT ONCE. FIG. 6. THE TOOL MOUNTED BETWEEN THE CENTRE OF THE LATHE.
ing
off at
Now
drill holes in
drill
a hole to take
it
also to
on a
little
cogwheel mounted on
as the lime
;
and if will not stand the pressure of the tool you get a dozen perfect ones out of one hundred blocks, then I should say you have done well. Thus the skill required will explain why
exorbitant prices are charged.
But the very smallest amount of thought will show how utterly ridiculous it is to make them in
552
had
to
before I could
but the
them A slot cut in the side will do, as you can out. insert the tang of a file, and lever them out. But as I am telling you how to make a fortune out of it, I must give you some better way than that. The way I managed was by mounting the wheel twenty teeth and sixteen pitch on to a
some dodge must be resorted
to to
get
from the different districts but all no purpose, as I had to go to Liverpool, personally cut the lime on the spot, pack in airtight boxes, and seal down immediately. This was a perfect success so the moral is, simply, " Do not attempt to make limes in London, but select a place near a lime-kiln producing the right sort of article make and pack it on the
;
;
3),
spot,
is
back end, and the front one having a screwed nose to take the cutter. In the centre is mounted a steel rod, one end being formed into the drill, having a collar on the bottom (see Fig. 4). A flat filed on the one side, to allow it to slide at the centre, and to turn with the cutter. To get the limes out of the tubes, push the end If another of the drill, and they will fall off. plate is mounted between the end of the drills and the headstock, it can be put in position to thrust the limes out by the motion of bringing back the block of lime. In fact, it would be no difficult matter to make a self-acting machine that would convey the rough block of stone lime into the cylinders, and even to pack them in cases. But as some day the profession will wake up to the fact that limes with holes are wrong, and with a little flange, instead of the usual pin,
the hole
is
AMATEURS.
By OREGORIE EDOUIN BEY.
V.
Electric Lighting by Accumulators or Secondary Batteries Plates for Accumulators Forming the Plates Making and Charging the Cells.
HEN
dynamo
electric
machine
of
may
batteries.
ployed in charging
the accumulators,
not necessary.
of all is
and
the
charge
the flat lime, say 2 inches in diameter and \ inch thick it gives a better light, and if it does
;
may be
used
at
crack,
it
and the
light
be interfered with. Of course, the great thing is where to get the proper sort of lime, which is black marble, burnt in a kind of furnace called a kiln, and will not make a
will therefore not
FIG. 12.
This
of
is
not
an
economical method
getting
electric light,
for
mark
if
in the
London
there
consequently
of
power incurred
sion of energy.
in this transmission
and conver-
commonest kind Nottingham, Sheffield, Pembroke, and Liverpool being the best that I have found, especially the latter, which is more close in the grain, firm, and just the right hardness for the most powerful burners. I have lighted up a circus with one immense
the
very
That
is to say,
which would light up, say, ten lamps of 10candle power when used direct from the dynamo, would only light up some seven or eight of those lamps by means of accumulators. Or, to put it
*
Dynamos
cluster
of
.553
we want
to light
up ten
we shall have to charge the cells with as much current as would have kept the same number of
lamps
of
mutators.
all
that
known
The
size of the
lamps going
The
cells cost
from 1.5s. to 1 each cell, according to the workmanship put in the cell, and it will need six such cells to light up a 10-volt lamp, the general estimate being one cell to each two volts of the lamp, and an extra cell to overcome resistance in the leading wires. "What is there in an accumulator
to cost so
depend upon the work we have to do with them that is to say, we must choose the size of plates according to the ampere strength of current we want out of the battery. The current yielded by the plates of a fully-charged accumulator is equal to six amperes for each
;
there-
we have
cell
con-
much ?
of a
It
is
only
few pounds of lead, and red lead, and a wooden box Ah there is beside, human sinew, and musele, and brains, all vulgarly classed under the
!
made up
square foot,
we
shall
get
from
it,
when fully
charged,
single word labour. This must be paid for as well as the material. If our ama-
but if we could discharge the battery at this rate, we should ruin the
only
;
plates
by
;
this
rapid
ex-
way
own
be
the
cost
will
of one
added
to
labour,
is
accumulator
cell to
give a
hour for a period of six hours, we must either employ twi plates having a
surface area
feet
of
square
surface
It
If
my
readers can
plates
having
1
instructions
how
FIG.
8.
both,
and then
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG. 9. FIG. IO.
area of
square foot.
must be understood
that
PLATE PARTLY PERFORATED. FIG. II. FORM we can only reckon on OF PLATE FOR LARGE CELL. FIG. 13. METHOD the current from one plate OF SOLDERING THE LUGS TO LEAD BAR. out of each pair, because
These
are
as
made
of
lead
specially
prepared,
described
of sheet-lead may be be thick enough to remain as a sheet without buckling after it has been subjected to the preparing treatment. Next to this for our consideration is weight, and as thick lead would make cells weighty, we must select
below
any thickness
it
used, provided
one will be positive and the other negative, and we can only take the positive surface into our calculations. We can alwa}-s arrange the capacity of a cell by an arrangement of the plates, bearing in mind that all the plates in one cell can only be effectively used as a pair, and must be coupled
up
to
form one
set of
;
if
weight
is
an
554
and
the
negative
plates
of:
also
connected
of the cell.
When
together, to
each kind.
Each
cell, will give a current pressure of two volts, however few or many may be the pairs in that If we wish to increase the voltage of the cell. current, we must increase the number of cells. Having chosen the size of plate, we must cut out the sheet-lead into plates, shaped as shown
the proportion of one part of acid to ten parts of water, and let the solution come up nearly to
the top of the plates. This done, connect one ter-
at Fig.
8,
with a
strip or
electricity
corner for
preferred.
making
connections.
The
plates may
be cut out square, and the lugs soldered on if Lay each plate on a bench or on a table, and scribe the surface with lines \ inch
apart, as
electro-motive force
from three
;
to four volts, if
charging one
cell
alone
if
shown
at Fig. 9
next go over
all
the
way if the
this will
the lead in each square, as shown at Fig. 10, until all the ruled space has been perforated.
volts for
each
When
make
vitriol
each plate has been treated in this way, up a paste with fine red lead and oil of
;
connected in series.
all
not yield a current of sufficiently high pressure to charge the whole battery in series, some of thecells
surface,
and press
it
may be
wooden
sides
of the plate have been coated with a smooth layer of red-lead paste. When the plates have all been treated in this way, and the paste
then connected again in series when wanted. The E.M.F. of the current must, in all cases,
this is the
exceed two volts for each cell in series, because E.M.F. of each cell when charged,
has set hard, they are ready for the "forming" process. It may be well to state here that large
plates, over
1
and it would discharge itself through the dynamo, reversing its magnetism, if the E.M.F.
of the
shown
fit
being made
to
the battery.
dynamo current did not exceed that of Dynamos furnished with H girder,
in a
wooden frame
the Plates.
is
Forming
the plates
Siemen's armatures, and two-part commutators, are liable to reversal whilst employed in charging
accumulators, even when the E.M.F. of the charging current is high enough. The forming current maybe obtained from a primary battery, made up
in this case, the cost
done by an electric current. The is an oxide of lead, and we must convert it into a higher oxide by means of electrolytic action on the plates when thus
coat of red lead
;
converted,
to give
less
up when opposed
supply of
metallic circuit,
accumulator plates are to be " formed " in the cell in which they are to be worked they are, therefore, arranged in working order, i inch
;
two or more chromic acid or Bunsen cells but would be greater than when done by the dynamo. Send the current through then the accumulator for about three hours connect it with some useful work, and let it discharge itself slowly for two hours next send the current through it in the opposite direction for 'a similar time, and again discharge; conof
;
apart, as
shown
tinue these reversals for several days, until it yields a fairly large current for a good period
form a connecting terminal to each set of plates, or all the lugs of one set may be soldered to one strip of lead running the length
to
clamp
and appears to be nearly equal to what expect from it then recharge it until bubbles of hydrogen are given off freely from the negative plates, and mark this set of plates
of time,
we should
HOW
with the negative sign ;
TO
MAKE A PAIR OF
same time
-|-
HOUSE-STEPS.
555
at the
mark
to
In
all
future charging
up same way, so as to receive the current in the same direction. Just a word of caution here. If accumulators
operations, let the accumulators be coupled
dynamo
in the
TO MAKE A PAIR OF HOUSE-STEPS. BEING THE TENTH OF A SERIES DEALING WITH ARTICLES OF HOUSEHOLD UTILITY.
By ED.
C.
HOW
ROE,
make
the solution
City
is liable to
appear to boil briskly, the coating of the plates disruption, and a similar disaster happens if the cells are discharged too rapidly therefore, they should never be short-circuited
;
HERE
is no more useful article in the house than a " pair " of steps, as they
;
for it is a pitiful 11 are often called thing to see the would-be duster of the top of
I have much pleasure in recommending a good little book on the subject of accumulators, by Sir David Salomons, published by Messrs. Whittaker and Co. at 6s.
Cells for
picture
struggling
on
chair-
which
is
formance
in the vain
job
if
endeavour
to reach that
eminence.
interesting
Accumulators.
mitted to continue
Certainly not
accumulator
cells is glass.
a fairly short and remedy the tnatter the amateur will follow me
will
when
'?
carefully, while
by 3i by 2
41 2
5
,,
13 by 11
13
11
by 5^
.,
6 6
8J
H
8
5
6
3
4
13 11 12 14 6 12
household.
18| 8^,131 18l 19 ,,10 10i 8 7\ These are sold by Messrs. J. E. Hartley and Co., 13, St. Paul's Square, Birmingham, at from 12s. to 15s. per dozen for the smaller, up to 11 12s. and 10 4s. per dozen for the larger sizes. Cells may also be made of good teak, with close joints well dowelled or dovetailed. Each part, as it is planed up and cut to the required size, should be steeped in hot paraffin wax until bubbles cease to form on the surface of the
A
back,
to
short
I,
time
among
others,
giving
lated
tabuof
the
material required
for
use to com-
plete
so
each
will
satisfy
job
try
and
critic,
my
first
wood
this will
make
the
wood
acid-proof.
The
by giving the
let
or critics,
requisite information.
;
But
it is
run in with white-lead white-lead should also be pasted in the joints before they are screwed The sizes may be inferred from the close. measurements given of the glass cells in use for The wood should not have a less this purpose. thickness than \ inch when planed up, and may
;
by the
minor,
the
true,
but necessary.
The
to
point
is
is
the height
steps are
be
this
matter
which
individual
requirements must settle. I once made a pair they were really a double set of 1 3 feet high steps, and for extraordinary purposes but
;
;
be made of
the contents will be very heavy, and there will be a danger of joints being strained if sufficient
rigidity is not secured.
good useful height. The next point is weight. We must bear in mind that the steps will often be used by the fair sex, and therefore
; .
556
HOW
TO
MAKE A PAIR OF
these con-
HOUSE-STEPS.
should have perfectly square arises it would not have if cut from
will
it is
is to say, it
is
With
or edges, which
siderations
view, the
dimensions
shall
do no harm
men, as house-steps do not usually encounter such rough treatment. The widths and thicknesses in the following
table are finished sizes
;
The advantage
its
of
that
is to say,
they are
it is
planed
off
The lengths
are necessarily
somewhat
now
by machine^'
of useful size.
The treads
Let
all
To.
Len crtli.
ft.
in.
Width.
in.
Thick.
in.
Name.
sides or strings.
/
first,
2
1 1 1
6
1
31
7 8
will give
8\
2
5
i
bottom tread.
top
1
1
the correct angle or bevel to which the treads will be fixed so that if we set a bevel to the
;
\
\
< /
middle
treads. treads.
top.
lines given,
,,
2
1
1 1
3
7
in place of
strings will
1
1 1
4 3 6
c
1
7
7
back.
8
"j
o
1 1
5
1 1
2f
7
stiles.
2
7
top
'
rail.
bottom
All the foregoing pieces can be cut out of inch flooring, 7 inches wide. The best quality yellow flooring should be selected, free from
knote, and clean on the back, not "
and cut all the treads on each string in the same manner during the setting out of which take notice that they are kept in pairs, and set
;
waney
"; that
557
into the
Fig.
easily ascertained
by laying
back
of the
steps
the same
the tenon of
wedge.
Do
is
the
best form
shown by Fig.
be
9.
The thickness
A inch.
;
The union between the back and front is accomplished by the use of a pair of back-flap hinges, If inches wide screw on with as stout
See that the heads fit the countersinkings properly nothing looks worse
a screw as possible.
;
we have
to
do
now is to
in the back must be bored so as to avoid the back edge of strings when the steps are closed,
for obvious reasons.
liae,
Two
Before proceeding further, the back edges of the treads which project at the back must be planed flush with the back edges of the strings (see Fig. 1), and the front edges rounded off.
the job
And now
if it is
is,
be cut back into the quirk of the bead, as shown (Fig. 4), and then they are
will
The ends
is
They would look well varnished such treatment eminently suitable for house-steps. If you
name
or initials
completed.
be rounded, and will project over the back \\ inches, and equally over each end. Under this the back piece will be fitted, the ends having first been shaped, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, and a bead struck on each of the lower edges. The two strengthening or binding rods are
simply lengths of J-inch iron rod, cut \ inch longer than the extreme width between the outer faces of the strings, plus the thickness of
where they came from. In conclusion, let me hope that this tenth paper of the series dealing with articles of utility will prove useful to the
readers of
Amateur Woek.
FRETWORK.
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR ALTERNATIVE
TREATMENT.
By
J.
WniTFIEhD HARLAND.
amateur who has assayed
fret-
one washer each side. Fig. 3 will probably best convey my meaning as to how the ends of
the rods are bound over.
VERY
fixed
The
It is
front portion
is
work knows that there is the very serious drawback of frailty in that kind of work, and whilst a very good remedy has been proposed by the use of "three-ply"
wood, as
it is
it is
made
called, to
preferable to fix the top rail with a double tenon (the drawing will show what is meant). The bevel or angle of the shoulders will be
use
it.
Whilst a surprisingly large amount of leisure time is spent upon thi3 pursuit, which is almcat
558
a fashionable craze,
strikes
me
as almost units
durability should still continue to be impaired. Perhaps also equally astonishing, is to find amateurs purchasing designs to work from, and carrying them out exactly like five hundred other people do. At best, there is a sameness and want of variet} in all fretwork, as well as an air of objectionable flatness and when, added to
7
;
and modifying designs in a method of carrying them out, I give the following hints and suggestions, which show that fretwork is capable of
higher ornamental purpose than admitted that its incompleteness
;
is
generally
by simple
s^&r
FIC.5. Chamfering
tool.
FIG.E.
FIC.I.
llali'of buck
of
Midfadlier ofBracket
Br-oxket in Fretwork.
this, one sees in every house the same design carried out without the least varia-
Eenaissance
I
style,
tion or deviation,
to say the least of
it.
it
becomes monotonous,
true that
it is
divergence alters
and compare it (Fig. 1 ) with 2), where a very slight the whole thing. Here it is
It is
not
everyone who can design for himself, but one would suppose that everyone has sufficient ingenuity to depart from a design, safely, in some way that would impart freshness and individuality to it, even if the motif were still
partly preserved.
and
moment;
at the
same time,
559
at a point
above
its
lower
effect,
and
to
to
make
on the sketching paper, upon which I should then fill in an idea or two for modifications until I produced something I thought would
suit,
it,
how
is fitted
into its
when
Thus I wish
emphasise
that,
even
if
one
it
does
other,
previously traced.
is
buy a
design,
it
does not
There
tage
another advan-
follow that
cannot be
in
attempting
others'
to
modify
designs.
even with improvement in appearance; but, on the other hand, it is better to deviate from it, so as to avoid having the
its
Even
and by degrees
solely
one
relies
for the
"
through
of such main portions of the design as I intended to retain, and FIG. 6. laying it face down on a piece of sketching paper, I should rub with the thumbtuft of nail all over it until a faint outline had set off two, or
pencil,
"basic" idea.
Ultimately,
instead of
buying a design, one goes direct to Nature, and with a spray of ivy, a
silvery
grass,
or
field
flower
or
560
set.
With
a toothing-plane
why
certain forms
why beauty
of curve at
upper side of the veneer thus glued, and lay upon it, with thin hot glue, the next veneer, and let this also set for twenty hours,, proceeding in like manner with each subsequent layer of veneer. It must be borne in mind that whilst drying, a good pressure, sufficient to
squeeze out
tion,
all
But
in modifying others
and the reason of them, will come to the mind more quickly if there be method and system in their conduct, if the imagination be governed by reason, if the purpose of the design be logically kept in view that purpose should be found unmistakable as the basis and motif of
be employed. To this end, a sheet of paper should be laid over the veneer (to prevent it adhering to the board), and then a thick planed board laid over that, covered with heavy weights piled upon
copying-press
is
it.
If an ordinary
give
pressure enough
Of
used
by
printers
is
and bookbinders,
better.
If such
Thus, in the illustration, the idea sought to be conveyed is that, primarily, of support. It
is
pressure
at
the shelf, helping one another as they interlace each other, and gaining
;
one operation, thus making up the thickness required; without such pressure, the slower method will always prove the surer one.
I here suggest a new combination. Let the middle layers of veneer be of dark or stained
strength thereby
this,
they impress, unconsciously perhaps, the idea on the mind of security and sufficiency of purpose
of,
When fret-sawn,
the
soffits
would
Hence, ornament should ever be subservient to strength, and be capable of exso necessary.
then show a distinct line of dark wood in contrast to the lighter one employed.
Further, in the design given
at
Kg.
is
the mind of
sions,
its
actual presence.
Unless impres-
a drawing of part of the system of curves, made by cutting roughly out of white holly veneer
the white parts, and out
the other parts
of,
say,
dark walnut
in the illus-
itself.
We
all
know
that
wood
is brittle
wood
is
used where the middle piece crosses the grain of the other outside pieces, such a design as the one here given would bo very fragile. I may therefore suggest to amateurs the alternative of preparing themselves their wood for fretwork,
composite panel or board, part of the design, as shown, would be white, and the rest of it would be dark,
tration.
The
of
the
giving a new prominence to some curves, and keeping the others subservient, a sort of inlaying (or, more properly speaking, overlaying) adapted to fretwork, which must add artistic merit tothe work.
say, for instance, a
and instead of three-ply wood, which warps, because the outsides are of unequal thickness
to the middles.
thicknesses of
veneers laid alternately across and with the grain. To prepare these, first plane
glue, cover
it
use,
on the
nicely
of
piece of
charcoal
a piece of seasoned
inch pine, and, with thin with brown paper, and then lay
1
on this the
first
now be laid
with this one can rub in the part one suggests for dark wood, and if it should turn out to be unsatisfactory, it can be dusted off and
561
to again It is not
is
until one
by any means requisite that the joints of light and dark veneer be close, except where they are
intended, after fret-cutting, to be in visible juxtaposition
;
can be got
for
dark wood and where certain parts of the design are overlaid in dark and others in light wood, the chamfering only enthe
commencement
may be
an approximate only
hances the
artistic
united
Fretwork has one great drawback from an artistic point of view it has the attribute of flatness. There are three ways of modifying this flatness, which is, after all, due to its surface being left flat. The first way of obviating
;
with the use of different coloured woods, and the chip-carving be deep enough to cut into a
by chamfering the
wood, a sort of cameo effect This opens up further would be produced. developments. Alternate light and dark layers of veneer could be used, and part of the chipcarving could be carried down through two thicknesses, whilst still deeper incisions went
different coloured
through
colour.
three,
thereby again
changingj the
and simple (Fig. 4). The two latter modes of treatment would be more safely executed if done before the fretcutting the former one, as I hope to show, can more easily and safely be done after sawing. Taking these variations of the subject in order,
alternative is carving pure
;
In certain parts turned buttons or rose3 could be planted on to the flat fretwork surface of the same, or of different colours.
let
me
can be done with the tool I have designed for this purpose, shown in Fig. 5. It will be seen that it consists of a straight spindle, on which a truncated rose-bit can be adjusted with a set-screw
at
set
N
hour
"
If the spindle be
it is
evident
undertaking a paper upon pneuit necessary pneumatics being, indeed, the "question of the
matics. I feel
I
that this
have, as far
gauge, against which the curves of the fretwork could be pressed home, and the rose-bit, being
set to the required height,
would, in revolving,
monly accepted principles, and have endeavoured to avoid copying systems which are the property
of inventors.
Should
I,
and one and the same equable reveal on the face. The rose-bit shown in the drawing is at an angle of 45", but 55 or 60 could be just as easily made, or
several bits of different angles could readily be
fitted
paper, have unwittingly wandered from this my purpose, I trust the defection may be condoned.
In the following
cases,
pneumatic action
is
to
:
be recommended even in very small instruments (1.) To add, say, a 16 feet double, or even a
high pressure 8
they can do
(2.)
be carried right through until the gradually narrowing of one curve into another will not allow of the rose-bit going up any nearer into the corner, the chamfer must after wards be finished out with a V-tool, or a sharp chisel, into the angle itself.
to
If
much
as
supply the
existing
stops.
To borrow
8 feet
To continue
manual sub-octave
562
Q<=3=0
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIGS.
SECTION OF SOUND-TOABD, A SOUND-BOARD^ B. 4. 5, 6.-PLANS AND pallets; e, ' p key the from conveyance d, grooves; groove-board; ^TAIL FIG. 7 PASSE O, PLATE THROUGH WHICH THE WIRE M, P^NS L, SPIRAL SPR.NG CLOSING PALLET R OF LEATHER OR ="E WA C, TOP AT GLUED LEATHER PALLET -AAA. BUTTONS B, DISC OF FELT WITH SOFT ORGAN CONVEYING *> RUBbII D, DISC UNDER PURSE. FIG. 8.-STOPPED DIAPASON OR GREAT OTHER STOPS TO SPEAK. FIG. BA. NOTES THUS SAVING WIND IN GREAT CHEST, AND CAUSING NONE OF THE ENLARGED VIEW OF B, FIG. S. FIG. 9. METHOD FOR DRAW STOP OR COUPLER.
I, 2, 3.
-EXPERIMENTAL
c,
PURSE.
FIGS.
"^ #^
:
. J
^ g'
_*5;
; ;
563
C,
on lower octave of keys. In all these cases pneumatic action confers three distinct advantages (1.) Silent action (no slides to get tight). (2.) Pipes always winded
:
they have not been in use long enough for me to be able to guarantee their durability they
do
not,
however,
show
any
sign
of
deterioration.
Figs. 4,
5,
show the
section
and
details of
Lightness of touch.
Taking the pneumatic bellows first: where space admits, the simple form (say 1\ by 8 inches) made in the manner described by Mr.
is perhaps the best but when the work is to be carried out by amateurs, and where space is a paramount consideration, I hive found th.9 form shown in diagram preferable. This bellows may now be described, and it will be well to make a single note experimentally before beginning a set. Cut out a piece of wood (Fig. 1), the wood may be \ inch thick round off the sharp edges of the hole on the top side glue this on another piece the same size, but not cut out (Fig. 2) on the top of all glue a thin skin. In the side of glued-up block, bore a f inch hole (c), communicating; with the depression covered by the leather. In the centre of the purse thus formed, stab a hole, and bore it right through the wood (Fig. 3); through this pass a wire having a button on the end protruding through the leather. Before finally tyiQg, stretch the leather of the purse slightly, so that on applying, say, a penny-piece, it can be pressed to bear level down on the bottom board, b. Now insert the wire, hold the end which has no button, blow into the
pneumatic sound-board. The purses, e, are inflated from key action (without perceptibly increasing the demand upon the key pallets), the wind passing through the tubes, d, which may
be of paper, from pallet to purse. We will suppose that the pipes are of 8 feet pitch thus the 16 lower notes of the 8 feet on manual make no demand on the pallets and grooves of manual sound-board the chest (a, Fig. 6) being always
;
;
full of
By the direct from the bellows. square, n, these pipes form the 16 upper notes of pedal bourdon, without bringing on the other
wind
In each case the pipes receive neither more nor less wind than the pallet, f, supplies consequently their pitch is unaltered, whether they
;
by hand or feet, or by both. now remains to consider the details of the purses, the principle being now fully explained. The pallet (Fig. 7) is formed by a circular d sc
are played
It
;
of piano
hammer
can be got),
covered by a disc of soft leather glued on, the size of disc about that of a penny, to cover a
hole the size of a shilling, or
less.
To keep the
disc stiff, a washer of thin sole leather or stiff cardboard, the size of a sixpence, is placed
under.
All these
pieces
are
threaded on a
f inch hole, and a distinct pull will be felt as or, instead of holding in the fingers, tie a bullet or other weight to the wire,
;
tapped wire, and are screwed close up together by buttons, a a. At the other end of the wire, after it comes through the purse, two washers of wood are
placed, one the size of a halfpenny, the other
and
it
There
the principle
it is
the diameter of
this
them up
spring
(l,
A spiral
In place of leather, paper may be used, provided it is good oil linen paper books printed
Fig. 6)
over the
small
washer, bearing
1800 will generally furnish such, or registered letter envelope paper, which has a kind of
circa
but in these eases a disc of where the wire passes through, to prevent tearing. Great care must
;
canvas lining
The spring may be made of piano steel wire, and must be only just strong enough to do its work. Springs can be made by getting around
piece of iron, inch diameter, or less, filed at
one end to
have made
but
perfectly,
fit in a brace (like an ordinary bit) drill a small hole, through this pass end at one the end of the wire, and wind it tightly by
564
; ;
AN EASILY MADE
PRINTING PRESS.
turning the brace, some person stretching the wire round the corner of bench, or other convenient object, taking a half turn with the wire, in order to keep it taut.
"
CB OP STICK."
Amateur "Work from
I
several
|Sa
subscriber to
thicknesses of newspaper, pasted on a greased iron rod, and, when dry, covered with one thick-
the
commencement,
have
been
I do
ness of
is
being wet with warm water on the unglued side, the readiest method for persons unused to the makiDg of paper pipes. AVhen dry, cut with a
dovetail saw, and glue the mitres with thick glue.
mean
Fig.
is
an
example
of
borrowing by
pneumatics, and gives' a diagram of pneumatic bellows suitable for larger work. The pipes
borrowed are on their own wind, therefore in tune. The principle is the same as in the
previous cases, except that (from the size of the parts) an escape valve is needed to ensure
have written this short descripgood and cheap press, which, though some may think very primitive, yet I have earned many a pound on an exactly similar press and turned out very good work, too. Fig. 1 shows the side of the press a is the bed on which the type rests when being printed from it should be made of some hard wood, mahogany for preference, and not less
for the same.
tion of a very
;
; ;
prompt
there
at its
In the bellows at b, Fig. 8, a hole allowing a tapped wire, screwed point into the fixed part of the bellows
repetition.
is
board to play very freely. Care must be taken not to make this hole too large at first it can be made larger
;
which in
If the maker take my than 2 inches thick. advice, he will buy an iron chase in which to the best size is about wedge up the type 1 inches by 8 inches a very suitable one is
;
that sold by the Birmingham Machinists' Co. as the " Simplissimus " No. 1 chase it costs three
;
afterwards
if
bellows
is
slow to collapse.
On the
shillings.
is
My
now
and the
chase,
press
which
limits
the
we
are
fit it.
press
this
open as far as it is permitted, stops the wind from escaping round the wire. As soon as the supply of wind is cut
off,
open, and,
when bellows
which
be
10
by 8 inches
10
inside,
and
First
consequently 12 by
inches outside.
a, as
the spring,
c,
wind
On
a large
general force
is
way
to raise the
mahogany, 13 inches long by 10 inches wide; also the platen, b (Figs. 1, 2, and 3), which must be of the same thickness and width, but shorter. These two pieces must be 1 inch planed up very true on one side, and the edges
they may then be hinged together with a pair of strong flap hinges, as shown great care must be taken to get them exactly
From the principles given, together with some obvious applications, I doubt not that the reader
will be able to
squared
make pneumatic actions for the large pipes, the couplers, and even the stops.
The power
a spring
it in,
parallel',
of
pneumatic bellows
is so
great that
may be
hold
and yet the bellows will take it out, and securely till the wind is cut off. Complete details to make a pneumatic action
it
which hung being platen and bed The is Yi inch. of pieces two prepare together, satisfactorily inches square ; tough ash, 9 inches long and these are the pieces marked c in the figures they must be screwed firmly to the end of the I have only drawn one screw bed, as shown. in each, but it would be better to put two, as I these pieces have to bear great strain.
and
AN
omitted to say that these
BASIL Y
MADE PRINTING
PRESS.
it
565
pieces should be screwed in the centre of end of bed, -with a space of 1J inches between them. This space is for the lever, d, which can now be prepared it should be also of ash, and not less than 3 inches
;
stood
up about
inch
if,
page of type, we should turn in the screw as low as possible, so as to allow the lever to exert more on the contrary, we were printing a
full
pressure.
Before fixing
e,
should be
We
iron
The one
I recom-
put on
about 2 inches by
mend
is
inch, and
only,
of platen, as,
screwed on the top of the front end if the lever pressed on the wood
it would soon wear it out, and the pressure would be very uneven. Having fixed this bar,
about an angle of 40 two semicircular holes. Now I fixed mine in this way: lay the chase in the position it will occupy, and in these semicircular holes screw a round headscrew in far enough that the heads grip the chase, and hold
J3S)
it
down
then,
to
fix
the
other side,
make two
pieces
_
Z
l>
\*f
FIC.Z
I for clips (h, Figs. 2 and 3). have shown one full size in Fig. 4. Screw these on, as shown in Fig. 1, when, as will be seen, the bevel will press the chase against the screw,
=F=F
03
and also hold it down firmly. To take out the chase, all that
is
necessary
is
to slacken the
clips,
XI
F1C.3
screws in the
and
it
can
then be
lifted out,
type and
Fic.4.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG.
COMPLETE. FIG. 2. FRONT END OF PRESS. FIG. 3. BACK OF PRESS. FIG. 4. CLIP TWO-THIRDS FULL SIZE A, BED B. PLATEN C, ASH FULCRUM D, LEVER E, PRESSURE BAR F, BOLT G, REGULATING SCREW
I.
;
;
PRESS
;
press.
;
H, CLIP.
place a piece of
type
Fig.
is
;
wood of the same thickness as the high (H inch) in between the bed and
put the lever in position, as shown in
A-
platen
1
;
inch
then bore through the two uprights and the lever for the bolt, f, which should be \ inch in diameter. Having bored the hole, put in the bolt, and screw up just tight enough to allow the lever
work up and down easily then put in a 2-inch screw at the back end of platen, immediately
to
;
under the lever, so that the latter will come down on it at every impression this is to
;
if
a visiting
is
card
is
little
pressure
required.
few thicknesses of good smooth paper on the platen, to take the pressure. If it prints blackest at the hinge side of the platen, take a sheet or two off; if the front side is blackest, put another sheet or two on. It is very easy to regulate the pressure in this way and though a great many people deny it, I can turn out as good work in small things, such as cards, bill and note headings, etc., as can be done on a press costing 50, though, of course, it takes me much longer to do it. Do not make any of the timber smaller, as what is wanted for printing is a firm heavy pressure, and a yielding one will not do; do not expect to print large posters on a wooden press, but confine it to its proper work, and you will be satisfied with its performance in every way.
;
566
HOW
J?
UN.
mean
rats,
'would be as
all over,
and
cold,
and
it
if
covered with a sheet of zinc, which could be screwed on care must be taken not to put any screws where the type would come, but keep
;
them
all
within
The
zinc
must also be put on before the platen and bed are hinged together, or too much pressure will I hope that all readers of be the result. Amateur Work may be as successful as I was
in
as printing i3 a very
time instructions are required as to the printing proper, I should be pleased to give them, as I
think an amateur can often instruct a brother
amateur far better than a professional can, as he many things which the latter would I dare say the take as a matter of course. printers, or rather compositors, who set this up but I shall still think will differ from me here I am right, though, no doubt, I shall be reminded that, "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise."
will think of
;
I mean the vermin which find board and lodging on the bodies of the birds, and work untold havoc with the health and growth of our Our coop, properly looked after, will, proteges. 1 trust, be found to meet all these requirements. The wood should be inch deal it need not be thicker. It should be well seasoned, but need not be of the first quality. By all means let it be grooved and tongued this will ensure a close joint, excluding draught, and affording no shelter for vermin between the planks. The size may vary, of course, and a good deal depends on how long the chicks are to be left in possession. I always let mine run as soon as they were big enough to take care of themselves, unless I wished to fatten them, in which case I transferred them to another coop. The accompanying sketches are intended to
against).
;
;
requirements.
Big.
1 used
1
shows one side of the coop. The wood was 7 inches wide (nominally), which,
little
over
6J-
HOW
of WiSS&ilfi P a S e 11
Amateur Work,
asks
Vol. III.,
New
a
article
correspondent,
on the above subject. This is an answer to the above request. True, my coop is not quite the shape of that sketched by the correspondent in question, but " an ounce
of experience
;
Bour widths, with the tongue and groove removed from the outer ones, gave about I cut them all 2 feet 3 inches 2 feet 1 inch. long, jointed them up temporarily, marked 3 inches off the back edge of the right-hand plank, drew the sloping line, separated them again, and cut the pieces at the angle marked. I nailed two h inch wide strips, 1 inch apart, down the front edge, to serve as runners to the barred front, and two top and bottom, to keep the planks together and prevent warping. The
inches.
bottom
strips
is
the proverb follows, I have, in the heart of a large city, reared several successive broods without losing a single chick; so I think I am entitled to recom-
made
similar in size
all
Of course, the other side was and shape, the runners on the inner
side.
being naturally
widths of plank,
also
made of
1
four
and held
foot 9
mend
it
to
Two
and
ventilation.
:
vide against
2. I screwed this to^the sides, the top of the back being flush with that of the sides, and hence leaving a clear space at the bottom of 3 inches.
HOW
make
in
RUN.
567
I then nailed two strips, 2 inches broad, across the front of the coop, top and bottom, so as to
the whole firm. I next made the floor.
and
the
floor
planks,
made
the
At the same must be removable, so that at any time the mother bird may also be let out. The framework of this front was of wood, 2 inches wide. The two sides were 2 feet 2 inches long, top and bottom being 1 foot 1 1 inches. I might, of course, have mortised these pieces, but
chicks have free access to the run.
and by taking out a small square piece from the two front corners
foot 10i inches square,
considered
it
z:
r
(J;
I'"
1
m
FIG.
Back. of Coop.
'lh
Fic.7.a
jfiaged joints
<-<?---
"li
Q->
*~~~~,.
*?Y>
*
:=^
V~rr
.-
^N\ j-^*^^^"-^^^T^j-^-^jyVv
-
-^*, :^_
-^-._^"- . j- -~
^- \t\.
1 =^=^== iv^^:
Nfczr-_
~ _
__
"""
-~
-
ao\
XI
-
\\
,
====::
\\c
aa.
^^
t
-Cr^^x. \^
M!>>M.IJ<ll,l'l>n
4^UllUimjlULUIilliauri!.ll.
FIC.4-.
FID. 3.
Ifloor of Coop.
arred front of
Ccop.
I could slide it up close to the barred front. I nailed two strips underneath the floor, of course these were 1 foot 8 inches long, and so
;
5,
tried to
show how a halved joint is prepared. A touch of glue and a couple of screws will make it as fast as need be. Four bars, \\ inches wide, were
these, too, were halved 2-i inches apart and the barred front was complete. Two rings may be fixed to lift it in and out by, but An inch wide stop are not really necessary. must be fixed at the bottom of the groove in which the front drops, else it will drop through should the coop be moved bodily. I also provided a night shutter this might
I now cut a 3-inch strip, to fit the empty space below the back of the coop, and nailed it to the back edge of the floor (see Fig. 3). The strip might have been hinged on to the back of the coop, but I found my plan to answer quite
i.~.
fixed
in,
well.
My
4).
This, of course,
;;
5C8
HOW
RUN,
have been made the same size and shape as the barred front, the latter being removed at night, and the shutter dropped in in its stead. Should this plan be adopted, it will be necessary to make a row of holes along the upper edge of the shutter, with the brace, for the sake of ventilation and if there are really rats and mice about the premises, this is the better plan.
;
obtain the facilities in the matter of stowage without resorting to the somewhat makeshift
plan above mentioned so I proceeded to make a " collapsible " or folding run of the following
;
dimensions
length, 6 feet
I
full
same
or
3 inches, respectively.
made my
hurdle
framework the
I
size, 6 feet
by
2 feet 3
in this
way, however, so
made my
bottom
shutter so as to
these
45 degrees.
Kg.
6).
The hurdle
was
less in
being placed on
readily cleaned.
first
screwed down
breadth by f inch (the thickness of the wood), and was not bevelled otherwise it corresponded, with its fellow.
;
of the
an open space of 3 inches just over the barred front I then prepared a strip 3 inches wide, and a cover 1 foot 5 inches broad, each, of course, being 2 feet 1 inch long. These I hinged to the central plank, and was thus enabled either to remove the barred front without disturbing the
;
11 inches long, so as to
fit
two
sides.
the coop.
the roof
is
is
An objection to
this plan
may be
that
better in this respect. As I should never by any chance leave chickens out in the wet, the objection has no weight with me. If, however, the span roof is a sine qua non, the door may be
made
at the back, and the barred front be pushed in through an opening in the side. But I made mine as described. My coop was now completed and Fig. 6 will give an idea of its general appearance. My next care was the run, which was to confine and protect the brood from all foes this
; ;
(so to speak),
with wire
I used
inch mesh,
but found
tion to
it
too large,
make
the
The cover was made 6 feet long (two of 3 feet would have been better) by 2 feet 1 inch across, one of the outer edges of rails being bevelled to an angle of 45 degrees. I then placed the end hurdle between the two sides, the three being flush at the bottom, and prooeeded to hinge them one side I hinged outside, as Fig. 7b, and the other inside, as Fig. 7c. I then laid the cover on the run, so that its bevelled edge coincided with that of the broader side, and screwed on two hinges on the outside Fig. 7a will, I trust, make this joint clear. The cover resting on the other side, which had been made f inch less wide, lay perfectly level it can be fastened down in any way which recommends itself mine had simply a hook and eye. Two hooks and eyes on either side kept the run fastened to the coop. When done with, the cover was folded right backward, and lay against the outside of the hurdle to which it was hinged, and the two sides were then brought into contact, the length of the whole being then,
; ; ;
facility of
stowing
naturally, 8 feet.
and the readiness with which they can be combined to make a run of any requisite length and width. The hurdles
hurdles,
are, in
I gave the inside of the coop (except the floor) two coats of limewash, in which a fair proportion of size had been melted; this was applied hot. The rest of the woodwork of both ran and coop
received three coats of paint.
wanted in point
When
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
of dust sifted out of the ashes
soft
;
569
this
made a
nice
bed for the chicks, prevented damp and draught, and facilitated the daily cleansing I gave my young families. Between each brood I washed out the coop thoroughly with water and a little carbolic acid, and once I rewashed it with the limewash the result was, my chickens throve, and vermin was unknown. In conclusion, I would poi at out that the coop can be rendered thoroughly rat-proof by nailing wire netting around the sides and under the
;
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By
THE EDITOR.
Marinaduke Hart, Vicarage Park, Plumstead, London, S.E. It was almost time that something new
was devised to check the vexatious damage that had suffered through our reposing a too confiding trust in the old-fashioned castor. The
82
cantilever castor
is
p ^
^
j^
flooring.
a recent
colour-photography,
success
is
demonstrated
still
to
my
and
mind that
that the
still
far
distaut,
experiments
of
photographers who
hope to produce pictures by the camera, showing natural colours, has, up to the present, Amateurs, for result little or no practical use. however, will have no fancy for the pursuit of what may prove a chimera but, doubtless, they will feel interested in the following, which is
;
and
durability,
and
at the
attached.
The action
is
always responsive,
;
and there is no doubt that when the advantages of this castor become better known, it will be generally adopted by the
for the roller
is
furniture trade.
" Good
effects
may be produced
and as
so
Working Drawings for Cabinet Makers. Messrs. and Co., 24, Wilson Street, Finsbury, London, E. C.
Zilles
This
the process
beautiful,
is
so
anyone may produce good results at with portraits may require a Dealing once. still the process is little more careful handling It will probably be as well to try not difficult Procure a landscape on a landscape first. negative, and print slightly on albumen paper,
;
working drawings, will prove useful to the working cabinet maker, representing as they do details of work set out in full size. They may be somewhat advanced for the amateur, yet even he may study them with advantage, for
they will furnish him with ideas for construction, and
making a very weak print when fixed toning not necessary washed and dried, by adding a small quantity of glycerine to the last wash water, the print will lie flat when dry, and be
;
New
17,
less
After
taste,
the print
dry,
colour according
to
as brilliant as possible.
Now
which has been printed from the same negative. The two combined will produce very artistic effects, and will meet with ready sale."
from the ordinarily accepted relief plaster of which they are composed left entirely without, covering, and bare, the idea being that a glittering whiteness of material is better calculated to show inequalities of ground than a surface varnished or elaborated by other means would do. The model of Europe, sent to me by Mr. Brion, is certainly a work of art, and an interesting companion to a text-book of geography, and is a much better instructor than ever a map could be. The models
now ready
Europe, Asia, Palestine, and their constructor, having devised a quicker method of casting than hitherto employed, is
for sale are as follows
Isles
;
VOL.
III. (n.S.)
570
each
an exceedingly low
for suspension
when
it
is
some idea of the amount of business done by Mr. Hobday's firm, and of the number of trades they are able to serve
with necessary appliances. Glancing through the engineer's
section of this catalogue, I find
and placed in a neat frame, ready upon the walls of school-room or study.
Tool Merchant's Catalogue.
Street,
among
merchant's catalogue, when properly compiled, is always a welcome addition to the worker's library, for its utility is not exhausted even by
Chatham.
tool
H.
one of these, No. 713, is supplied for the small amount of 10s., which, I should think, would be within the means of
all
amateurs.
;
series, is larger,
and
costs
Possessing one of
its
;
am
an amateur
likely to
demand
but a workman will discover them as soon as he begins to operate with it, and no doubt will develop its utility in a very extended manner. These two bench drills are shown
in the illustrations
appended
to this notice.
NO. 713.
contains.
XVI. A Prize of One Guinea awarded for the best Speciaiens of Amateur Wood Engraving. This
Hobday
worth preserving for several reasons the first, of course, is the reasonable charges at which the articles are obtainable, and that is a feature that will commend it to amateur and workman alike then the way in
Bends
is
;
me
to enter the
lists.
am
which
its
many
that a peruser of
directly
is
is
in quest of
amateurs but I suppose the real that very few appreciate the advantages an
who
is
tools, to
make
application for
conveys, and I
prised also,
am
when
an amateur with tools for wood engraving, and then compare it with the elaborate
takes to
Btart
and
costly
outfitB
ueceBsary
for
following
other
pursuits,
pleasing results.
With regard
effect a walk over more specimens had been sent in I still believe that Mr. Morton's blocks would have borne the palm for the real skill
to the
has been in
if
they manifest.
able
The woodcuts
by a professional wood awarding the prize of One Guinea to Mr. P. S. Morton, 151, Cumberland Street, Portland, Maine, U.S.A.
engraver.
BENCH DRILL,
this book,
NO. 714.
by sending
his address to
;
with stamps to cover postage that is all the expense he need incur. This list classifies tools under headings of the trades to which they are peculiar, and, further, it. arranges
The other specimen I can only characterise as a very sorry monument to a man's patience. The sender of this says that he did the work with the corner of a but I regret \ inch chisel, and I quite believe him
;
that
he should
have wasted
valuable
when a small
and,
time in outlay
and herein lies the secret ol There are a great variety of articles to and when I mention that the items are select from numbered in the catalogue from 1 to 1,270, and that the sections are twenty-four iu number, the reader will gather
them
in alphabetical order;
easy reference.
;
the
means
;
of working easily
masterly
This competitor must forgive my warmth but really I do not like to see perseverance treated with such injustice by its possessor.
effect.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
Model Locomotive Building. Watching " writes " Just a line to ask you if you will try and let us have the paper on Model Locomo"
:
571
"
for
Many
the
in
courteous
manner
to
which he draws
in
my attention
The
an
those of
'
the
mistake
question.
volume of Amateur Work. You promised it in Vol. II., New Series; and now
tive
Building'
in
this
dimensions
given were
the
winter
evenings
are
coming, I
it would be just^the thing. Please do not take this as an unthankful grunt on my part, as there is not a small, very lonely, but very lovely book that I can afford to pay for that village. Living as I do 'midst friends gives such an amount of amusement whom I have known from childhood, and knowledge as does Amateur and surrounded by the loveliest scenery Work." ["Watching" will find his request in all broad England, you will believe me when I tell you that I live only to attended to in the present Part. His impress, ever and ever more perfectly approval of the magazine is very
think
occurred probably in this way. The round part beyond the square is rather more than inch diameter, and the
corners of the square are taken off until
the disc can pass over.
If the
round
part were \\ inch, the smallest Bhade off the corners would be sufficient, as
the diagonal of a A inch square differs
of
by only J$ inch from Ji inch, and half this would be at each opposite
corner. " more important matter
is
that
on a gelatine plate, the images of my friends and of my beloved scenery. I have taken your somewhat mercurial paper in from the commencement, and in the first volume of the Old Series, on page 302, you raised my hopes to the highest possible point on the journalistic scale but, sad to tell, they have fallen since, stopped at long intervals by your promises, the last made as late as February, when the hand camera was promised by April. " Wretched, worried Editor, explain, if you can but should shame hold you in her iron clutches, do penance, not in sackcloth and ashes, but in spending the midnight oil in hunting for that lost article, which 'just came to hand
artistically,
; ;
'
and
gratifying.
Ed.]
there
is
a standard
size
generally recog-
Copper-facing Carbons.
viz.,
^ inch, this
" Will being the size of the tool channel in Montgomery writes: any kind reader of Amateur Work tell ornamental slide-rests. It would be me how I can electro-copper the ends well if those who make an eccentric
E.
six
months ago.
like
"Hope,
light,
Illumes and cheers the way And still as darker grows the night, Emits, and cheers the way."
" I
am
cutter would have the shank that size, some carbon plates which I wish to some terminals ? also, can and increase the shoulder and disc in J. L. D. it be done with Leclanche cells ? Any proportion." information on above will greatly Amateur's Work and Iron Planes. oblige." J. S. B. writes " Talking one day with an amateur, we came to the conSimple Ornamental Turning. "Clericus Secundus" writes: "I clusion that amateurs' work was spoilt, have just discovered, to my cost, an by the want of proper tools, so I puroversight in] the figures given by Rov. chased an iron plane, which, owing to the handle, is more easier to work than J. L. Dwyer in his "Chapters on Simple Ornamental Turning," and a wooden one and now I can plane a hasten, with apologies to him, to point lot better in fact, I only want practice it out, lest others find themselves in the to be as good as a professional. I have made the carpenter's bench described same difficulty. " He gives the size of the shank for in Vol. II., Old Series, and I like it, the eccentric cutter as \ inch square very much in fact, I planed legs and just beyond the shank is a turned part, side pieces with the aforementioned plane and I advise all amateurs who % inch, to take a disc, the hole in which of
solder on to
one
who hopes
'
to see
it
nexi
will, of course,
month."
[Oh, thrice fortunate correspondent,
these terms
contemplate plane buying to get one. I paid a good price for it (4s. lid.), on
the principle that
article
if you want a good you must pay for it."
whose ways are set in pleasant places, and who dwells in the midst of a lovely, lonely land, moderate your rancour, and discover if thou canst some grain of sympathy for the wretched, worried Editor, who, compelled to spend his day
in the neither lovely nor lonely printingoffice, is at
a A inch square being nearly J inch. It will be necessary, therefore, that, the turned part beyond the shank
least J iuch, the hole in
"
Acme
" Drill
Chuck.
Whitcchapel
be at
LiFiiTCiiiFPE.
a like
size, of
course.
Bhoulder
against which
volveB (given as J inch) must also be Learn increased. for your satisfaction that the article you " May I conclude by testifying to the hoped for so long is arranged to appear interest and value of the above articles, J. L. D. in the November Part, having lain upon and also to my admiration of Mr. duplicate jaws. our table for a considerable period, Dwyer's generous offer to drill a Exercises in Woodworking. waiting till opportunity and space were division-plate at a nominal cost for W. S. Cook. This book is published agreeable. I trust this knowledge will such of your readers as may desire by Messrs. W. Allen & Co. the price cure your heart-sickness. Ed.] one." is 5s.
Road, London, they will probably be able to supply you with a new set of jaws for your " Acme " chuck. These chucks are made to gauge, so there ought to be no difficulty in getting
572
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Optical Illusion.
trick
Model Stationary Engine. have written to "Constant Reader" (Glasgow). you is an exceedingly simple one, and Mr. Merroney privately, but lest he This correspondent wants to make a should expect a reply in " Amateurs in model stationary engine with double is known as the " Thauma Illusion." It The body of the Council," I beg to say that a 3J-inch action cylinder, and with boiler, suitis performed thus able for driving a model screw boat or generally a female is centre lathe would be suitable for ornaperformer made to recline forward in a support mental turning, but there should be no a model lathe, and he will be greatly In other re- obliged if any brother amateur will devised for the purpose on the swing shake in the mandrel. I would give him a drawing and short descripseat a false waist is fixed, apparelled in spects it may be untrue. a fashionable bodice, and the body of recommend a divided brass plate to be tion of what he requires through the the performer, leaning forward, rests placed over the present pulley, as J medium of "Amateurs in Council." upon this false bodice, which fits well inch would be very narrow to contain Index to " Amateur Work." up under the armpits, and partially more than one row of holes. The A. B. Keywortii writes: "I have Britannia sell slide-rest Co. a in which The rest of the percovers the bust. been a subscriber to your valuable former's body is framed round with the long slide is parallel to the bed, which you have noticed, called, I believe, " Brown's Slide-rest," paper from its commencement, and we
Slide- rest.
A.
S.
The
which
mystifies
R. Merkoney.
black drapery,
I the three-way slide-rest, which are now in the middle of Vol. XI. would be more suitable for orna- beg to make a suggestion, which, I An mental turning than the ordinary sort. think, would prove a boon to all posblack screen conceals her body. It would be a There are, of course, slide-rests made sessing the volumes. artful arrangement of the lamps at front great convenience if an index of, say, provides that their light is chiefly thrown for ornamental turning only, but they the first ten volumes, was published toward the spectators, and completes are generally very expensive. Your queries are quite plain, and it separately, in much the same way as so It would, therefore, be the illusion. many other journals are doing. As rather a poser if any person were to is a pleasure to me to answer questions matters stand at present, it often so courteously asked. J. L. D. when he is exhibitor ostenask the (usually) involves hunting through so tatiously passing a sword below the Cutting and Polishing Pebbles. W. S. Cook. At most seaside resorts many volumes to find an article, for it to convince the seat of the swing generally happens that if you start at audience further by walking round there are to be found lapidaries who
and which thus leaves her arms, head, and bust to be seen in front, whilst the
or
own
the
Vol.
I.
M.
writes:
"I
have heard
curves,
of
and T [Your suggestion is certainly deservwishes to do that himself, the operation squares, as used by draughtsmen iu is simple, and the main quality de- ing of consideration, and there ia no America, and the notion appears to me manded is a good store of patience. question about the usefulness of such a grand one. Oan any fellow amateur It consists in first dressing the pebble an index, could it be produced without
transparent
angles,
found in Vol. X., and vice versd. I pocket of the visitor who is desirous of should think such an index might be having his pebble treasures cut and published at Is. or Is. 6d., and no one such a trifle." If, however, the amateur would begrudge polished.
and
especially to lighten
and
chisel (here
loss,
but I
is
am
afraid the
;
demand
any
for
it
some experience
to
is
necessary, in order
certainty
at
rate, the
From
know with
little
what demand
actual
ex-
in which the parts shown by Mr. Simpson cau all be used. It would not be difficult to contrive an efficient overhead in which most of them might be brought in, but as Mr. Simpson is so hard on inventive genius, I think I had better desist. The best way to find Mr. Ashe's successors would probably be to adver-
overhead
operator.
any means large which the pebble is subjected to per- unough to warrant the venture. Ed.] sistent grinding upon a wet revolving Hand and Foot Threshing Machine. Failing a revolving stone, a stone. From the illustration you J. M. stationary slab of sandstone may serve enclose of above, I should imagine that the purpose, but will entail considersuch a machine as it represents would ably more labour on the part of the be a great acquisition to a man who has
direction the fracture will take) after
therefore, not by
If the pebble to be
worked
upon
is
sufficiently
;
large,
it
may
be
small crops to deal with but, of course, I am unable further to express any
;
must be
fixed to a piece
tise in
Bhape,
by
but as there is cement composed of ; better calculated to afford you the inno lack of eicellent lathe-makers in resin, and beeswax, or with lapidary's formation you desire. London, I, for my part, would get any cement sold for the purpose. The work I required done at the best of finishing is effected by rubbing the them whose charges I could afford to pebble upon Water of Ayr stone until, LETTERS RECEIVED UP TO SEPT. 10. P. pay, and not spend much time in upon drying, no scratches appear to mar A. C. Watkins Violincellis Burnard Galvanic J. seeking out a maker who has sunk into the smooth surface you are seeking to Bennett oblivion. J. L. D. obtain. Crane J. D. A. J. S. B.
; ;
;
mechanical magazine
opinion as to its capabilities. Are you of wood of acquainted with anybody who possesses means of a one ? A little conversation with him is Burgundy pitch,
Presented with
Part
XXXVI. (New
Series.)
November.
1891.
A
WARD, LOCK, BOWDLN &
CO.,
)e&iqrv
for- cu I^erv
HcuJc
573
ALFRED
A.
EARRISOX.
N
describe
be advisable not to give exact measurement, for the reason that each individual lens will require to be
it
I think
will
details of length
accurately
adjusted
at
;
slightly
different
Amateur Woek
if
I
I
and as
this distance
must be the first thing to ascertain, all other measurements must be worked from it. I am, of course, assuming that a lens working at a
Cork
block
I !
I Cork \bbck
ah.
LENS
FIC.3.A.
Cork
block
i
*
\iofk}
ibfocki
L
n
7."
B
Cf
TT
a*
I
c
D
*^
.-'
<R>
1
lo
(V
JL.
FIC.4.
FIC.4-. A.
Fic.2. 2-7"
but not, to my mind, fulfilling entirely the requirements of an all-round camera. I shall then describe what is termed a magazine
camera,
viz.,
containing
all
back
and
name
"
hand camera,"
that
more
or less a misnomer.
I purpose giving details for cameras of halfplate size, anything larger than this being hardly
fit
be used. It may be said that no such thing as fixed focus and this in theory is correct, although in practice it will be found that a good R.R. or W.A. of modern make can be adjusted to a focus that will give good definition at very considerably varying distances from the object to be depicted. Lenses are now made called fixed focus lenses but as it is not every amateur who can afford to
fixed focus is to
there
is
for the
work
by 4
it is
is
a very nice
it
size,
but one
slight objection to
that
is
not a size in
in
to
be
VoL
III.
(New
574
The
thing, therefore, to do
is
to set
up
in
be used for the hand camera focus this on a view with well-defined objects in the distance, middle distance, and foreground, and having obtained a picture on the ground-glass screen to your liking, introduce a figure in the near foreground, gradually bringing it nearer to the lens
is to
Next cut the board, b, that is to carry the and for the half-plate camera before mentioned; it will be 6f inches wide, and 5 inches high. Attach the lens to it exactly as it is to be when the camera is complete. Now erect this in a position on the base board distant from the plate at a a, equal to the distance between the back of the lens and the ground-glass before tested
lens,
;
you reach the point when it is no longer in perfect focus put the figure back to the perfect focus point, and then measure the distance from it to the lens, and make a note of it this
until
; ;
mark the spot accurately. The sides and the back end may now be
prepared, and lightly tacked with French pins
to the base board.
least
if
1
at
will
be the
least
This done,
you must allow between the nearest object you want sharply defined and your hand camera. This being done, you must next measure to a perfect nicety the distance between the centre of the back glass of the lens and the inner
surface of the ground-glass screen
;
glass
a sheet of white card or a piece of fine groundis inserted in the position to be occupied
plate,
by the dry
this is easily
done by having only half a glass in the screen, or if an old piece of ground-glass is not available, by putting half a plate in the dark slide, and drawing up the shutters. Tou can then pass
the rule through and up to the lens.
exact distance carefully.
may be tested. be providing the measurements have been carefully made, the sides and back may be first glued, and then
the accurate register of the focus
If this is all right, as
it
will
and
b,
Note the
form the
;
wood
is to
grooves in which
will slide.
If preferred, this
bottom board of the camera to be constructed it should be of well-seasoned wood, J inch thick, planed smooth and true, and cut to width, but not length. The width for half-plate, if \ inch stuff is used throughout, will be 7\ inches. The length can only be determined by the lens used for a W.A. lens of h\ inches focus, and for a camera like Fig. 1 (in this stage), the base board had better be at least 9 inches long. In Fig. 1 the exposed plate is at the extremity of the base board but for a camera like Fig. 4, there will need to be from 2^ to 4 inches of base board behind this point, according to the number of
;
panel
may be merely
;
position
but
if
c,
this is
flap shutter,
should
is
fixed
it
will,
however, for
and out. has a and The panel, E, circular aperture cut in it to exactly fit the hood of the lens it should also be made to slide, and it will be as well if it is attached to b by means all can then be removed of blocks of cork
better
if
this
panel
is
made
to slide in
a repetition of b,
together,
if
required.
of the camera,
f,
The end
as close to
fact,
if
should be attached
;
the hood
in
plates
of the
it is
dark
be used.
On
of the blocks,
a a (Figs. 1,3,
4,
an outside shutter is used, it may be dispensed with entirely, and the lens hood, instead of protruding through e, may merely pass into it but in that case it should not be attached by the cork blocks to b, but be fixed
;
when
in
in position
fact,
ready
for
exposure
they are,
the
which the plates are pressed by means of a spring, or otherwise, as will be shown later on.
registers against
permanently at the end of the box. If a shutter is used that works on the inside, f is necessary, but should only be just a sufficient distance
to
We will leave
575
the camera
box part of the camera by putting on the back end this should rise about 1 inch, as seen at a, Fig. 3, and on its inner surface it should have a stout watch
;
position
and
after
exposure,
is
Some
prefer
have every plate in a separate bag, others use two of these bags and an ordinary changing bag, thus recharging their bag slides from the
a a. The same result may be obtained by means of a thumbscrew passing through the back, and
pressing against the centre of the plate.
main stock
after every
two exposures
others,
again, place two dry plates back to back, with a piece of thin black tissue between, and fixing
of
wood
must next be erected across the top, equal in height to the part of the back that projects, and slips inserted between it and the back, like b in Fig. 3. These slips of wood should be just sufficient to allow a dry plate to slide up and down easily, and no more, unless it is intended to use the dry plates in pairs, in which case it must be a shade over the thickness of two plates.
(Note.
bag
after exposure.
sensitive plate is
always exposed, as in the kind we are considering, requires either that the exposure
shutter shall not require setting, or else that
If plates are
from light, passing through the lens during the operation of setting the shutter. A simple shutter that is always closed, and yet
always ready for exposure,
is
The back of the camera an oblong tube, one side of which, viz., that towards the lens, is open within the camera, except the narrow strips at the sides,
screw, at the back.)
will
now
consist of
small sheets of ebonite, or other material, alternately rise and fall before the aperture of the
lens,
a,
either
The top of the camera may now be closed in, by screwing a board or boards from the
f,
or parts of
it
hinged at choice. Except the shutter and the changing apparatus, the camera is complete, and should at this stage be carefully examined for traces of
light or for inaccuracy in the position of the
lens, etc
;
two strings. and it can be worked quite quick enough for all ordinary hand exposures, or it may be worked slowly, or left If a form of entirely open for a time exposure. shutter is used that requires setting, the back of the lens must be closed by a flap, as c, Fig. 2. This flap is attached to a metal spindle, which passes through the side of the camera, and terminates with a milled or winged head, for
of
This
is
known
as Places' shutter,
it
No
making
itself
are needed,
it
the
fits
frame,
d,
The contrivance for changing the plates consists merely of a bag made of three thicknesses of finely woven black silesia, which fits over the raised end, g, Fig. 3, and is fixed there by means
of tape tieor stiff elastic throughout the exposure.
and
lens;
is
it
and
is
is
better if the
surface
it
shuts against
also
This bag acts as a holder for the plate, and should be some few iuches longer than the plate
obtained
if
be folded back while fixing or removing, and to keep all lighttight when removed. Of course, it goes without
it it
contains, so as to allow
to
We next have
it
to consider a
the tube at
saying that the bag plate-holder is fitted on to g, and the plate allowed to slide into
attained
appear on the sensitive plate; this is by using dark slides, the number of
576
being left entirely at the will of the manufacturer of the camera. The camera is
slides
at the top,
a,
g,
and
the blocks, a
way
previously de-
bag
done away with, and instead of the space between these blocks and the back being only sufficient to receive one dry plate, the base board is lengthened to admit a focussing screen, and as many double dark slides as may be desired. The foremost of these dark slides must have the plate in accurate register
3)
is
must be
plate
that
being used;
a reference to
make
sents a side view of camera behind the exposure blocks, a a, all in front being the same as Figs. 1 and 3. Fig. 4
is
groove in
and 3), and must exactly the same way as do ordinary cameras. For the
1
bag, k, removed,
plates
;
is
partition,
s is a movable wooden which separates the exposed from the unexposed, and, by means of the spring attached
for exposed,
not be separate grooves, providing they fit easily behind without undue rocking. The top of the camera must, of course, be permanently closed from the front, f, to the blocks, a in other
;
to
it,
pis
words, the camera differs only from an ordinary one in having no bellows, and containing the
lens within
of the
itself. Behind the blocks, a, the top box opens with a hinge, to permit of the removal of the slides, or the drawing-up of the shutter. In the centre of the back of the camera, o, an aperture with a sliding shutter, about 3 inches long and 2 inches deep, is made and when it is considered necessary to examine the image on the ground-glass, the dark slides are
camera works under a false bottom, on. which the bottom edges of the plates rest, and the lever is in exact register with the bottom edge of the plate being exposed when the exposure has been made, and it is required to change the plate, the milled head is turned, and the lever raises the plate sufficiently for it to be grasped through the bag, k, by the finger and thumb, and inserted in the back compartment, n, the next plate forcing itself into position. If any difficulty is experienced
line) to the milled head, o, outside the
;.
is
placed in position,
tilt
of the
without
being necessary to use a dark cloth. The space that holds the dark slides and screen
it
camera proper. The form of dark slide best adapted for this kind of camera is that with the leather slip for the withdrawal of the shutter, which has no projections whatever, and therefore fits closer. The third form of camera, better known as the magazine camera, is a combination of the two preceding ones. It needs to be of greater length behind the exposure points, a a, than Fig. 1, but
of the
camera backed and edged with black paper, or, what is far better, protected by thin metal sheaves these sheaves are merely thin sheets of tin, with the edges turned over to
sensitive plates for this class of
The
must be
either
they are so cheaply procured photographic stores as to be hardly worth making. If films are to be used in this
grasp the plate
at
;
form
to
of
camera instead of
glass, it will
be easy
;
make
but
very close
and
stiff,
although
thin.
The
g,
with
it,
therefore no aperture
needed in the
it
by having the back, hinged but in some cameras of this form, the back is a fixture, and. the bag, k, is attached to a frame which can, by the loosing of screws, be removed.
or films
best performed
else
removable, or
577
shown
and
MORTON.
cut short braces out of the remains of the long If one does not care piece, and screw in place.
to
a mortise, long screws can be used to fasten the cross-piece to the upright, and the braces will hold it firm enough. Take two
make
button and
we do
and 3i
feet
labours under great disadvantages by lack of the suitable apparatus. Some do not do enough
to
pay
for special
appliances,
and it is to this class I submit a description of a home-made easel that can be used for this work, and also for similar work, and when not in use can be folded into small compass, and stowed away in the corner. With an easel, copying is rendered much easier, especially if the work is done at home in an ordinary room, where light varies very much in
others
;
who do
different parts of
it.
To be
;
room may be
a pin to hold
it,
in place
but
all
know how
is
difficult it is to find
may
look
but when the plate is developed, the negative will be denser on one side than the other, even when the best care is taken, unless the light comes to both sides of the object to be
all right,
moved
be readily changes in the light and the amateur who possesses one, will no longer
copied alike.
to suit the varying
But the
easel can
be tied
to the wall.
ways that those who photograph will at once see, and no better arrangement need be used to
pin bromide paper to in enlarging.
FIG.
-EASEL COMPLETE. FIG. 2. SIDE VIEW OF EASEL. 3. BOTTOM OF EASEL SHOWING LEGS FOLDED BACK.
;
The
to
easel should
be made
of light
wood, so as
long
be easily handled; any soft wood will do, and the amount needed will be one piece 9 feet long by 2 inches square; one board, 18 by 20 inches, or any other size decided on for the
copying-board
less
stuff, not long and 2 inches wide and a strip of thin hard wood, 1 inch wide and about 2 feet long. The rest needed can be picked up
;
cut off 6 inches from each piece, and attach it to the piece again by means of hinges, placed so as to allow the two pieces to fold back
against each other. Prop the upright perfectly straight, and then fasten these strips to it, to act as braces, at right angles with the short ones
fasten
than Z\
feet
to
the
upright, with the hinges outside, so that, when in use, the long piece will turn down, and act
from any odds and ends. First saw off a piece of the 2 inches square jpiece, 6 feet long, for the upright and another,
;
as a brace, and will fold up against the upright when not in use. Fig. 2 will show how these
I
go on.
578
NOTES ON SOLDERING.
If
it
moves too
easily,
holes can be
made
;
at
and are then screwed to the upright, so that when the braces are down, the notch will fit over a screw placed in them, and will hold them fast. A double button, also fixed to the
other,
and a
a small
when
the
dropping down. Pig. 3 shows the lower parts up for stowing away. The copying-board has a ledge, 1| or 2 inches wide, on the bottom, with small thin pieces put
any of the holes at different heights. Now take some brass or steel wire, about No. 10 or 12 B.W.G., and form a coil of two or three turns, 1 inch from one end bend the other end down, as shown in Fig. 6, and turn up the ends, and smooth them off make two of these, and the holes in the strip previously mentioned must be made so that the short end of these wires will fit closely in them. The use of these wires will be seen in Fig. 1 the}' are to hold the picture or drawing to be copied in place, and can be moved up and down the board by means of the carriage holding them, and at different widths, by using different holes in it. If the paper to be copied is too flimsy, thin strips of wood can be used under
at
;
the wires.
Now
to
all
is
make
enough
enclose the
common
FIG. 4.
iron or
PIECE TO GO OVER END OF CARRIAGE. FIG. 5SECTIONAL VIEW OF COPYING BOARD AND SLIDING CARRIAGE. FIG. 6. METHOD OF BENDING WIRES FOR
HOLDING COPY.
on over the ends to brace it this is for holding books when anything is to be copied from them, and two buttons, screwed on the front of the shelf, will keep them in place. A piece similar in size to the shelf should be put on at the top for ornament. Now cut a strip of wood, 1 inch square, and as long as the copying-board is wide, and bore small holes, the size of which will be seen later on, 1 inch or so apart, along Cut two pieces, like Fig. 5, its whole length. and fasten one to each end of the strip, which is shown at a in the figure by the dotted
;
and by means of the thumbscrew it can be raised or lowered on the uprights, as wished. Fig. 5 shows this box, c being the upright. A good coat of shellac or varnish should be put on now, to keep it clean, and to keep the moisture from warping and twisting it or a coat of paint may be put on, if the timber used is not new.
;
NOTES ON SOLDERING.
By A PRACTICAL TIN-PLATE WORKER.
are very few amateurs but at some time or other require to do a little soldering, and from the various queries that I have received from time to time, I have noticed that many experience difficulty In the following in making a satisfactory job. notes I will try and solve these difficulties, and
HERE
lines
these pieces, when the strip is held against the front board, should extend } inch back from it, to allow of a narrow strip being
;
screwed or glued to
place,
is
it,
to hold
it
in place.
when
it is in
shown at Fig. 4, a being the strip with and B the copying-board. This part forms a sort of carriage, and should fit close, but not so close but that it will slida up and down.
hole3 iu
it,
endeavour to give
my
and concise directions that no one need despair of turning out good work, both as regards strength and appearance.
NOTES ON SOLDERING.
;;
579
or the shank can be " upset " a
screwed into
little
it,
cannot come within the limits of the catchpenny advertisements of a complete set of soldering
tools
drilled
to
;
allow
it
to
enter
Is.
my
readers that
real
\ inches in depth) drive the shank in, grip the copper in the vice, and "set" it close to the shank with a punch and hammer the
(about
;
work with these toys, for they are nothing else. A good soldering-iron or copper-bit shall
first
is
copper bit can then be forged to shape, and the shank drawn down to a point, and put into the
handle.
that
is, it
be our
consideration
of a
good
size
amateurs
general purposes.
fine
should be so large that the hand will not be cramped by holding it. The file handles
usually stuck on soldering-bits are no use
;
they
ozs. of
copper
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
no
FIG.
FIG.3.B
3 A
POINTED SOLDERING-IRON. FIG. BROAD ENDED SOLDERING-IRON. FIG. 3A. RESIN BOXES. FIG. PLUMBER'S SHAVE-HOOK. FIG. METHOD OF JOINING TWO FLAT METAL. METHOD OF JOINING TWO PIECES FIG.
FIG.
I.
2.
4.
5.
PIECES OF
6.
OF TUBE.
in
it
and Fig.
2, to
have about 24
:
ozs.
Notice
Any
Fig.
is
drawn down
illustrated the
square to a point; Fig. 2 is wedge-shaped, capable of taking up more solder, retaining heat longer, and imparting it quicker to the surface
to
end ;
it
be soldered.
It will also
copper at the other end, and is not likely to come out, which they are sure to do if only stuck in.
Solder. solder.
The
is
the
shops.
I show this method as being best for the amateur, because the soldering-iron can be
ones, as in those a great part of the copper is
This is an alloy of tin and lead, in varying proportions according to the work it is required for. A useful solder for rough work,
wasted in the iron shank but in the ones illustrated, it is used up to the last bit, a consideration for those with limited means. Another advantage is that they are easier for the amateur to make himself, as follows:
;
Take the pieces of copper, and drill a f hole in the end, which can be tapped, and then the shank
and where a quantity is required, is made by melting, in an iron pot or ladle, 5 lbs. of clean lead, and adding 8 lbs. of block or ingot tin. (N.B. In making solder, never put in any old gas-pipes, spoons, or zinc, and do not let the metal get red-hot, or you will certainly spoil it run it out in strips in a piece of angle iron.) For a fine solder suitable for general purposes,
580
use 4
lbs. of tin to 2 lbs. of
NOTES ON SOLDERING.
lead ; this
for
is
best
rule
tinman's solder;
quantities,
of
course,
very
small
where only tin-work is to be soldered, but for general work and jobbing I prefer to add half
as
ounces
may be
taken instead of
list of
much water
it is
as there
is
pounds.
Fluxes.
after
" killed."
it
requirements
a suitable flux
that
is,
a sub-
This
is
is a special preit is
paration,
of,
composed
used
or
it
may be
to
adhere more
all is
closely.
Of
to
but
is
certainly in-
raw
spirits
for
soldering zinc
The most
useful of
them
that
known
;
galvanised iron.
most people as "spirits of salts," its chemical designation being hydrochloric acid this is a strongly corrosive acid in its pure state when purchased, and must be carefully handled, as if any is spilt on clothes or' hands, it will burn
them.
When
but
it
absolutely
pure,
it
is
almost
colourless,
This is a most useful substance, and Eesin. was formerly the only flux known for soldering. Crushed to a fine powder, it is used either by itself or mixed with oil or grease, to solder tin-work, lead, or composition pipe, pewter, and other soft metals and alloys. There are two kinds black and white, so-called, though they
it
turns yellow
it
we
require
however,
it
is
pure
1
enough.
Purchased
lb.,
wholesale,
costs about
strictly speaking, those colours, the black being a very dark brown, and the white a yellow colour. The black variety is equally as good as the white, and somewhat cheaper.
are
not,
which,
it,
Tallow.
itself
as a flux
also in
wiping
pure state as purchased, "raw" spirits, and I shall use this term when speaking of it. Raw spirits is only used to solder zinc and galvanised
its
plumbers' joints.
OH. This is also made use of by the pewterers for soldering their counters, beerThe kind mostly used is that engines, etc.
iron.
tin,
copper, brass,
and
known
as GaUipoli
it
is
a kind of olive
oil,
of
to
technical
or trade term),
a greenish colour and strong smell. The reader will now be able to see clearly what
and pour into it \ pint of raw spirits; cut up some zinc in small pieces 3 or 4 ozs. and throw it into the jar of spirits will suffice a little at a time do not throw all in at once, or you will see your spirits rapidly disappearing
kind of flux is most suitable for the kind of metal to be operated on. I have gone fully into this matter because, from many inquiries I receive, I find that much of the cause of the complaint of non-success lies in not using a proper flux. It A would-be happens very often in this way
:
over the sides of the jar, as the zinc liberates a quantity of gas, and causes the fluid to boil
amateur
" solderer,"
is
I may use the term, the " stuff " they use for
if
"When the boiling and effervescence have subsided, which will be in about half an hour, the spirits will be " killed." Put a few more pieces of zinc in, and watch if any efferover.
soldering with, and gets the reply, " Oh, spirits He goes forthwith to the nearest of salts."
chemist's,
salts,
of spirits of
if
so, it
requires a
little
more
zinc added;
It
is,
if
not, it is
still
"killed"
suffi-
quite right"
and
off
he goes,
ciently.
however,
purposes, so
by some add as much water as there remains spirits, and this is a very good
still
;
may be
further weakened
feeling certain, after this double assurance, that right track. Perhaps he wants to
he
is
on the
and solder a piece of lead pipe or a tin article, leaves a finds, on applying a brushful, that it
NOTES ON SOLDERING.
"black
581
maik wherever
it
shifting about
and bright.
operation
If this operation is
work with a
adhering
;
from
half chokes him with the fumes, and compels him to give up the job in despair, not unmingled with disgust. Another individual, on asking the same question from a friend, gets the reply, "0, resin of course." He, perhaps, wants to solder some sheet -iron or zinc, and the
result in his case is equally disappointing.
that
;
is,
rub
it
well on a
solder
;
lump
of
kept in a gallipot or jam jar on the bench ready for use, but raw spirits should be kept in a well-corked or stoppered bottle, and only a little drop taken
out, sufficient for the job in
off
maybe
hand, as
it
throws
ought to be hot enough to make the sal-ammoniac fizzy and smoke on removing it, and dipping it in the pot of spirits, it will be found to have a clean, bright, silvery surface, and is now in the proper condition to do good work and it should always be kept as near up to that mark as possible. Metals to be soldered must be clean and bright, It free from grease and all foreign substances. is on this point that a great many people fail they cannot be brought to understand why it is
sal-ammoniac with a
little
it
;
fumes that rust all iron or steel things that they come in contact with, and tarnishes any kind of metal. In applying these fluids to the work, it should be done with a small brush, and
it
necessary to
make
so
much
him a
run
should be but sparingly applied, not so as to all about the work. Kesin is generally kept
bottom, and requests him to " stick a lump of solder" on it; but nevertheless it is a fact that I always insist upon in teaching and in practice
carefully prepared.
on the cover of which is soldered a small spout, through which the powder can be shook on to the work (see
canister,
3, a and b). The only other requirements for soldering are a lump of sal-ammoniac or chloride of ammonium, a 10-inch file, a scraping knife or two,
in a little tin
box or
Fig.
Of course, with new tin good condition for soldering but take, for example, that two pieces of sheet copper have to be soldered together. Now, copper and brass are two metals that take most kindly to soldering,
this preparation is uncalled for, as it is in
;
and as a useful, though not necessary article, a burnisher might be added. The file just alluded
certain
5,
amount
will
piece, a,
if
of preparation.
The
to do
sketch, Fig.
this.
had best be a half-round one the scrapingknife, a pocket-knife, or an old razor fixed in a
to
;
explain clearly
how
On
the
handle;
4)
is
I have not gone into the question of fires for heating the irons, as I presume most amateurs
utilise
the kitchen
fire;
suitable gas-stoves,
how-
make a line f from the edge, or under, a wide lap (as the seam in this case is called) scrape this bright with the knife is required shave-hook, or rub with emery cloth do this or the shaded part shows both sides of this piece this on one side. Now clean the piece, b, on one
; ;
be had by those who prefer that mode, and have the convenience of gas, from Fletcher and Co., Thynne Street, Warrington. I believe a small stove, suitable for two irons, such as I have described, can be had for 4s. or4s. 6d. I am using one daily, and find it answer admirably and more economically than a coal or charcoal stove. These remarks bring us to the point of
ever, can
side
only;
:
then
"tin"
the
clean
parts
as
follows
thing to do
actual use of the soldering - iron. The first is to " tin " its faces ; to do this, it
must be made nearly red-hot, and held in a vice or somewhere where it can be filed without
answer nicely), and dip it in your jar of weak spirits, and apply it to the cleaned parts let the soldering-iron be of such a heat that when held about 2 inches from the face, you feel a quick glow from it. A solderingiron should not be red-hot, and should it by accident get so, dip in water for an instant before using supposing it to be of the right heat, dip it in the spirit jar to clean it, and then
at Id., for
etc., will
;
pick up a
little
582
and apply it to the part to be tinned let the iron rest on it, so that the heat is communicated to the metal to be tinned, and rub the iron along, picking up more solder as required, and heating the iron again if necessary. Whilst still hot, place the two pieces of metal in position, a on b, and with a piece of wood press them closely together draw the soldering iron along, letting it rest principally on the double thickness. By this means, the solder flows between the two, and they are then thoroughly united but if the iron is drawn down on the single thickness of stuff, the edges only are joined. To join two pieces of tubing by means of a piece slightly smaller, slipped between the two (Fig. 6), tin the short piece all over the outside, and the inside of the two pieces about \ inch slip the tubes together, and run a hot iron round the join, and as far up each pipe as you have tiuned, using some solder at the joint; wherever the iron goes outside, the solder will run inside. One other example will, perhaps, be of service, and that is soldering a thin piece of
;
DESIGNER."
HERE
every
lovers
thousand
of
those
who
are
to
or students of
literature,
whom
to possess
afforded
ance,
is
books for which no accommodation is provocative of considerable annoyof those books littering the
by reason
home
may
be,
and
being individually difficult of access. Perhaps one may closely connect this source
of
inconvenience to the
desire
of
recent
relative
to
construction.
the means of
inducing the
when
It is impossible
do this unless the larger piece is heated to somewhere near the melting-point of the
this can be done either by placing it on the stove, or allowing the iron to rest on it for some time till the required degree of heat is obtained it can then be soldered with ease otherwise a botchy job is the result. I might go on multiplying examples ad infinitum, but I
dimensions of the necessary pieces of wood, and state the exact sizes thereof, not merely in bulk
sufficient to allow for
solder
shall
try,
to
;
the best of
my
ability,
it
to
as
my
think the principles of the process have been explained clearly enough for the amateur to
his own examples, and will conclude with a few general directions and maxims.
work out
Always keep your iron clean and well tinned. After soldering zinc or galvanised iron, whilst
file or scrape off the dross which always accumulates on the iron when soldering these metals, before using it for anything else. Use
hot
is likely to accrue from For instance, he desires a bookcase about 8 feet high and 6 or 7 feet wide. Now, I ask, how many will need such a large article ? Many would prefer it 4 feet or 3 feet inches wide, and proportionately high. 6 Whence comes the utility, then, of detailing Looking at it from the writers' dimensions ?
such procedure.
point
of
view,
an iron of suitable
job in hand.
Do
;
responsibility
and
not try to solder a metal teapot with a heavy iron, or a hole in a lead roof with a small one
upon them.
be, I
fore,
am
and do not keep on trying to solder when you find the metal t does not flow freely, but re-heat the iron. Lastly, do not expect to do as good work as a professional tinman the first time
of trying.
Personally, whatever else I may but a poor arithmetician and, therecaution our correspondent to study and
;
There is another aspect I should like to touch upon and as this subject affects readers and writers alike, perhaps all this digression on the
;
583
PIG. I.
BOOKCASE
;;
584
All amateurs should, good workmen, carefully prepare full-size drawings of all parts of an article they conconstructing,
If this is done,
template
paper.
of noting
upon where
stiff
lengths
of
and
lies
the difficulty
down
wood required
the front of each pilaster will be glued a facing, of a width not quite reaching that of the
pilaster itself, ending plainly at the top,
On
and would not such a course be less open to miscalculation than an imaginary summing-up by means of paper scales ? But, enough let us proceed with the construction. I will, although perhaps unnecessarily, state
:
but
On
the front of
underneath
the cornice and frieze, might also be glued a small bracket, of the shape shown in Fig. 1 The door-runners consist of three thin strips
of wood, travelling completely along the upper
is
supposed to
while at
The
Fig.
consist
cornice, c
comes
first.
Glance at
the
12.
may
them being
and
It
four
As an
alternative,
a method
suffi-
bottom edges of these will be screwed flat thin pieces, the side and back ones being about 4 inches wide, while the front one is somewhat wider. The outside edges of these pieces should be allowed to project a trifle beyond the front and sides of the frieze. Thus there is a very large opening formed, which will
to the
fit
much
may be
;
bottom board, and glued and screwed but some workmen would prefer to groove the bottom board, and joint the runners into them, as in Of course, the top runners are fitted in Fig. 8.
a similar, but reverse, manner to those at the
which I shall soon speak. A moulding (b, Fig. 12) must then be mitred up to fit on the front and sides of the frieze, to which it will be screwed, as in that diagram. Above this will be a moulding (a), similarly mitred to the last one spoken of, and glued to it. It may be further strengthened by glueing and screwing strips of wood on its inner
surfaces.
bottom.
The back board may consist of boards jointed up to the sides, etc. to do this, rebate the back edges of the top and bottom boards and
;
sides
may be
screwed.
My
advice to the
maker
is
not to
fix
the
by joining them
To
fix
may
drive a screw
through
of the cornice.
The top carcase appears next. First comes a moulded bottom board and a plain top board, the former wider by its moulding than the latter. The top one must be about \\ inches
wider than the sides of the article, \ inch being occupied by a portion of a pilaster, a section of
wood underneath them end to the cupboard sides. However, should a reader consider that a tongue at the end of each shelf, jointed to the side boards, the best method of adding further strength to the carcase, he is, of course, at liberty to adopt that method. Embossed leather frontings will enhance the
appearance of the
fronts
of the
article if
which latter is shown in Fig. 1 5 in plan. These pilasters are cleated at the back (a wide rebate is, perhaps, a better description),
shelves. Of the glazed doors, as they will be nothing, need say perhaps, I mortised and tenoned together in the usual
585
will
pilasters in
worked on the
fronts of them, as
shown by
;
the same
carcase.
way
It
may
may be
rebated for
he
well, too, to
make
panelled
FIG.
FIC.9.
FIC.14.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG. 2.
FRONTAL SECTION OF LOWER CARCASE PERPENDICULAR DIVISIONAL BOARDS, SHOWING BLOCKS TO SECURE THE LATTER. FIG. 3. SIDE SECTION OF TOP BOARD, FRIEZE AND MOULDING OF LOWER CARCASE. FIG 4. FRONTAL SECTION OF END OF UPPER BOOKSHELF WITH SUPPORTING BLOCK SHOWN. FIG. 5. PLAN OF ONE CORNER (FRONT AND SIDE) OF MITRED FRAMING UNDER FRIEZE. FIG. 6. PIECE-PLAN OF TOP OF UPPER CARCASE WITH CORNICE STAYS SHOWN. FIG. 7. SIDE SECTION OF PLINTH BOARDS WITH CLEAT (SHADED) SHOWN (THE LATTER ALSO SHOWS IN FIG. 9). FIG. 8. CROSS SECTION OF DOOR RUNNERS. FIG. 9. PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF PLINTH WITH CLEATS SHOWN (THE LATTER ARE NOT JOINED TO PLINTH IN ANY WAY). FIG. IO. ANOTHER METHOD OF MAKING PLINTH. FIG. II. BOTTOM END OF PILASTER (UPPER CARCASE, AND SHOWN ALSO IN PLAN, FIG. 15). FIG. 12. CROSS OR SIDE SECTION OF CORNICE AND FRIEZE. FIG. 13. FRONTAL ELEVATION OR SECTION OF SIDE OF LOWER CARCASE AND SHELF. FIG. 14. MANNER OF SECURING PEDIMENT. FIG. 15. PLAN OF FRONT CORNF.R OF UPPER CARCASE. FIG. 16. PLAN OF FRONT CORNER OF LOWER CARCASE. FIG. 17. CROSS SECTIONAL ELEVATION OF LOWER DOORS.
appear uniform when within the runners. If the door-runners are merely butted against the pilasters, and screwed there, they will be conveniently placed for removal, in case of injury happening to the doors it will thus be
that
all
shall
board could be inserted with effect as a back board behind the middle opening. The bottom board will be wider than the sides, as in the
top carcase.
I must
now ask
a,
me
in descriptive details.
The lower
carcase
is
now
There
it is
has a moulded front edge screwed, as shown, to long back and front
586
one of them incised or carved. The ends of b are joined, in some such manner as that shown
in Fig. 16, to the inner surfaces of the pilasters
;
given a diagram (Fig. 7), in which is a sectional view of the stiles, A, moulding, c, and panel, b. In due course we have arrived at the plinth. Four boards, dovetailed or mitred and screwed,
will give us the
main
portion.
The back
piece,
however, could
be joined nearer the front, between the end pieces, if considered best. Four pieces, of a few inches width each, will be mitred and screwed over the tops of the other
boards, as in Fig. 9 and section Fig.
parts being strengthened
7, b, all
in order to permit
it
to
fit
parts
marked
b,
Pig.
3.
To secure each
under part of the top board, it will be advisable to screw a few small blocks (not long rails) on both sides, as in Fig. 2, that diagram being an end elevation or section of a divisional board, These latter boards must be previously etc.
grooved, as at a, in Fig.
by small blocks being screwed in the corners. The plinth can then be screwed to the bottom carcase, from underneath the longer parts but it will be preferable, on account of the end part running cross-grained to the bottom board, to use cleats, as in Fig. 9, which are to be screwed only to the bottom
;
and
concerned.
tongued drawer-bearers, b, As may be known, each of the three drawerbearers will consist of two side rails, tenoned into front and back rails all being grooved on
;
to
shown
in Fig. 10.
boards will be mitred up within the plinth boards proper, and screwed to the latter, the
panelling.
make use
of glue in at
connection with
these
parts,
except
the
am
really advising
upon
bottom edges of all being flush one with the other, but the top edges of the inner ones being at a short distance down from the top of the remainder. The bottom board of the carcase can then be screwed, from the top side, to the thickness of both of the longer inner boards, in several places, while but one screw is used at
each
side,
who
to
averred, some time back, that boards, however well seasoned they may be, are liable
although not, perhaps, aud that, under these circumstances, when a framing was so joined to a board that that particular end of it which came
in
shrink
width,
The
to
may be
screwed
in
appreciably in length
each other.
To keep the
cornice, etc.,
6,
in
together with
it,
was running cross-grained to and was glued, the latter would shrink under
it
such a manner that their outside edges just fit within the framing formed at the bottom of the
frieze
certain conditions of atmospheric changes, thereby causing detriment by cracking, etc. If,
and
cornice.
The
description of wood,
however, the various parts are well fitted, and no glue is used, allowance is made for the free
under whatever conditions of climate they may meet with. Of the drawers I shall say nothing, as I think instructions will be superfluous and concerning
play of
all portions,
;
judgment and wishes although it may be mentioned that our correspondent contemreader's
plated
making the
Dimensions appropriate to the large outside sizes named by our correspondent now follow
;
ME TAL- TURNING.
but I must again remind him to remember my remarks thereupon, written heretofore. Upper carcase width, 6 ft. top and bottom
:
is
also usually
The exception
is
when
the head
boards,
6
ft.
each 6
in.
in.
;
ft.
2 in.
by 16 by
or 2 in.
;
1 in.
sides,
ft.
and
is
upon
by 13f by \\
;
shelves, 5
the bar.
9 in.
by 13
door
stiles (6),
ft. 1 in.
by 2|
by means
is
by f or
1 in.
(6) 1
ft.
5 in.
by
cutters, is ex-
tremely simple.
:
taken
tool
by
3
;
height, about 3
3 in.
and
held
and a
21 by If in. (thickened to about 3 in.); bottom board, 6ft. by 19 \ by fin.; sides, 2ft. by 18f by 1 \ in. upright divisional boards, 2 ft. 8 in.
;
The bar is then put between and driven round with dog and The work being
is
by 19i by If in. middle shelf, 1ft. 7^ in. by 19 by f in. door stiles (4), 1 ft. 11 in. by 2\ by f in. (4) 1 ft. 5 in. by 2J by f in. plinth boards (2), 6 ft. 2 in., by 5 by 1 in. (2) 21 in. by by 1 in. There yet remain a few boards, such
; ;
work
ally
in hand.
bolted on the
traversed longitudin-
by
by
-5
hand,
if
automatic traverse
is
not available.
as panels,
to
etc.,
calculate
for
These are the bare sizes. You must allow extra sawing and planing, which will be explained upon inquiry at the timber yard thickness, in addition to length and width, must be increased. I advise you to have one or more perpendicular divisions in the upper carcase
;
It is essential that a boring bar should always be made as large as convenient for the job in hand the stouter the bar, and the smaller the
;
it,
the less clatter there will be in boring, and the smoother will the hole be.
otherwise
the shelves
may
METAL-TURNING.
By
A FOREMAN PATTERN-MAKER.
VIII.
Conclusion.
p ^'^ a
L^a Sel
jjggyilg
SHALL now
an
article
on the methods of boring: which are too large to be undertaken with drills and bits holes for which the boring bars and boring heads are and on the means brought into requisition flanges and ends of bored work the which bv
holes
For deep heavy cutting, the tool point formed on the principle of the roughing tool for lathe work (Fig. 39) is used. With such a tool a coarse feed can be taken, and a large quantity of material can be removed. For amateur's work it is exceedingly useful and manageable. It also bores truly as regards the circular form but, of course, it leaves minute ridges in the work, like For finishing a hole all roughing tools do. smoothly, therefore, a tool of a different form is employed, of the general type shown in Fig. 40 this consists of a flat scraping cutter, wedged similarly in the bar, but the form of which is
; ;
adapted for the removal of small quantities of metal only. The tool cuts at the leading corner,
a, alone,
and not down the sides, b. Very often made to work on opposite sides,
The
are faced
off.
cutter
is
Boring is done (1) with one or two cutters wedged, or otherwise secured, in a slender slotted bar (2) with a series of cutters arranged around a disc or boring head. In the first case the cutters revolve in one vertical plane, and the work is traversed on the saddle of the slide-rest.
;
Unless these cutters are wedged in carefully, they are apt sometimes to become moved out of place by the stress of cutting ; they should therefore make a close fit with the slot, and, more
important, the wedge used should
fit
well, so that
in,
when
cutter
all
driven
the slot
58S
METAL- TURNING.
METAL-TURNING.
shall
fit is
589
filled
first
cut off
is
and there is little risk of the cutters and wedge working loose. Sometimes the cutter, when of the broad scraping type, is formed with a shoulder, and then it cannot be driven inwards
sary,
Fig. 42a they are seen fitted with shoulders, the better to withstand the cutting pressure they are tightened in with wedges, b, are turned
up
in place,
off
to
the
by stress
but then the cutter can only be used for boring a definite diameter. This, which diminishes the value of the shoulder in
of cutting
;
dotted line,
to
proper cutting, are marked, removed, and tempered, sharpened, and then returned to their
place ready for use.
its
As
these cutters
all
bear
For boring model cylinders this is a very good for light work it need not be preceded by the roughing cutter. If, however, there is a large quantity of material to be removed, say more than
tool
;
inch or tV inch diameter, a drill may be driven through the rough casting first, to remove not only about one half the metal, but also to take out the hard surface scale and sand, and so
leave a
soft
around the head, and as these grooves are seldom of exactly the same depth, to change the cutters from one to another would often result in the formation of an untrue circle of cutting edges. As in the single and double flat cutters, so in
these the operating edges are those at the front
corners, a, not at the sides
of
;
operate upon.
are concerned.
Besides
employ a boring In any boring head, however small, there are seldom less than five or six cutters used, and in larger ones they will number a dozen or eighteen. Sometimes these cutters are of the roughing tool form (like Fig. 39), set in radial holes, and each pinched with
is to
its
from \ inch to \ inch do they cut the metal. Another matter is this in a ring of cutters each one cuts a section only of a circle they cut in succession, each one being set a little in inch to jg inch. advance of its fellow, say from Each then takes its due share of cutting, which could not be the case if they were all set alike, for in such a case the leading cutter would do all the work, and the remainder would simply
: ;
&
A self-acting
construction, is
shown
in Fig. 43.
it
;
I give no
to scale
common
use
set
screw
of tener
hard and
form
(Fig. 42),
The
boring heads are occasionally made solid with their bars, but in the majority of cases they are separate annular rings, bored out to fit over
their bars,
foot in
required position
is,
that
advantage of being adjustable lengthwise on In workshops these heads are kept their bars. by dozens, and usually each head is fitted up with its own proper set of cutters.
may be varied to In the larger bars, however, it is usual to put differential wheel gear, instead of the simple star feed shown in this figure but such is rather beyond the range of amateur work. The construction of the bar is as follows An iron body, a, is provided with a recess, a, running down the whole of one side in this
diameter of the heads
in hand.
;
:
its
bearings, c
o,
fitted
and
cutters
are
seldom
fitted
and
screwed into the ends of the bar. The bar is turned smooth and parallel throughout its
length
;
turned up in place, before tempering, on their own head. The pieces of steel, of which they
d,
bored truly to
along
A.
590
without slackness.
the bored hole.
The nut
screwed to
fit
the
feed screw,
the head, d,
B,
MAYNARB WALKER.
2,
the work
IN Part
process
Vol.
I.
(New
Series),
of
to be bored is fastened
down
Amateur Woke,
of
I described a novel
centres.
and the bar is driven The head is set commencing a cut, and
its
"roughly
ornamental"
making one
have
fully
success-
When
venient
applied
any condistance
the process to
and
is
moved round a
a variety of objects,
amongst
hall
which is turned by the movement of the star, and the nest cut is taken in that new position, and so on. The object of the boss of d is to give good length of bearing, and consequent steadiness of longitudinal movement. The forms of the cutters may be either of those already described, and the same head can be utilised for them all. In almost all cases the operation of boring by
of the screw,
others a
lantern,
which
ance
so that,
readers of
Am-
ateur Work,
Illustrated, I
means of a bar, or of a cutter head, is followed by that of facing the ends of the work, the job remaining in the same position that it was in
while being bored.
only good
When
the job
is fixed,
the
way
is
by means
Manyreaders
will, doubtless,
of a star-feed arrangement.
The general
have
in
noticed
method
is
as follows
;
Fig.
44 represents a
the
metal
common form
cast iron.
is
articles apper-
upon
this.
c,
and brass
scroll
and star wheel, d the former is prevented from endlong movement by the collars, E e. The casting is either made to embrace the
screw, outside of the boring bar
figure, is
;
or, if
made
as in the bar.
It
immense variety of forms of that kind of work, and many amateurs have successfully attempted the somewhat difficult task of modern forging
;
keyed into a
slot
in the
amateur,
will
and the
tool, f,
while highly
be
cuts a face
centre.
On
more willing to ride an easier hobby. The making-up of the present design
all,
is,
after
and turn-
c,
of
a rough
Roman
A HALL LANTERN AND JARDINLERE.
relic,
591
it
is
impossible to
produce in the woodcut illustration. The process is very easy, and may be undertaken with the greatest confidence by anyone who can do rough
fretwork
container,"
and
as
and requires truth rather than highlyfinished workmanship, the final decoration being obtained by bronzing the rough grain of the the wood that is to say, the patterns are cut from unplaned wood the rougher the
;
by soldering a
crescent piece
of metal on to the collar of lamp, the crescent being fixed into the circular hole in bottom of lantern, and thus held securely ; or, for a position
where
access,
it is
easy of
better
the
lamp
from
inch
then
water,
may be dropped
into well-hole
soaked
in
the top.
feet
About 4
11 -
when
raised
;
dried,
is
of
a ground
is
colour
all
applied
over,
and the
another
is
the
to be-
grain subsequently
work.
bronzed
And now
gin.
consideration
Having traced
upon
with
or
that the
is
material
inexpensive, the
them wood
glue
size
;
the
thin
melted
true
as
has
grain.
suitable
each
possible,
1
and from
Fig.
represents
thatrepeat
copies as
asmany
a hall lantern of
this material, sus-
may be
by
the
process
wanted
printing
pended
chains,
by brass
measuring
described on page
25, Vol. III., of the
13 inches high, 13 \
New
FIC.4.
Series
of
and
Amateur
CuL4.
fore,
Work,
12 inches at base.
Illustrated.
thoughts that
occur to
will
the
pattern
mitre,
is on,
but
after
the
wood
for
making
in a former volume of
is only apparent, as no part of the frame comes into contact with the flame, nor is it exposed to any dangerous heat,
and each true to one another, so as to produce a properly squared-up job when subsequently glued together. It may occur to the reader that the top and bottom ornaments might
be cut out at the same time, and of the same piece as the panels, but it is better to cut them from a piece with the grain running in a different
direction to that of the panels, so that,
lamp itself is connected to a tinplate fitted to bottom of lantern. The article shown in Fig. 1 was fitted with a paraffin lamp, the most suitable form of which is one about 3
especially as the
when
592
direction.
It will be observed that the bottom ornament is set outwards, and the top ornament inwards to the surface of panel this is done by cutting the corresponding edges on a bevel. When the whole of the pieces are cut out, place them in water for a few minutes, when all the paper may be easily peeled off, and the work set
;
cover the
coat
of black
this
is sufficient
ground,
standing out
gold paint
copal varnish
with every bit of grain, when dry, in relief. Next prepare some
that
is,
to
dry
when
all
under a weight, so that they may Next carefully finally dry without warping. glue together the panels this is easiest done
together
;
enough
to
if
this is
well done
and
most easy
every
if
bit of the
I mistake
sees
it
The precise upon whether we use paraffin lamp or gas. Fig. 7 shows a lamp arrangement for fixing inside the latter, and
suspend the lantern.
Now
method
will
depend
Fig.
shows
of
the.
brass
S hook at each end of lamp being taken out by leading one horn of the crescent downwards, and turning the lamp round, when, of course, it leaves the
base-plate of lantern, the reverse action fitting
it
fig. 8.
upside ^down,
"consumer." about 6 inches diameter, to be had at most lamp shops. Fig. 8 shows an alternate use of the same design, from a photograph, wherein the lantern becomes a jardiniere, in which a single pot of ferns is placed but if it were desired to use the whole space, it would be well to fit a zinc container
fitted
a brass
true
up with the
to the
interior,
table decoration.
readers to
inexpensive,
(Fig.
4)
later
on.
Now
fit
to
;
the
cut a
piece inch larger each way ; cut a 2^-inch hole in centre, and turn up a J inch edge on each side punch a small hole in each turn-up,
;
AMATEURS.
By OREGOEIE EDOUIN BET,
VI
and with small screws attach the same to inside of frame glue on top and bottom ornaments and the corner scrolls, and when the work is
;
thoroughly dry, it is ready for painting. First prepare a paint of a mouldy green tint, using turps as the vehicle, and mix mid-
those
secondary
generators
of
little
persons
593
man, Hying in Paris, invented a luminous scarfpin and other luminous jewellery. The luminous jewels were simply pieces of out-glass, set in the
gems are made in Paris, and imported from thence to England. I see from Messrs.
light
Hartley's
list
window
setting,
of a
small
are supplied at
each
flowers, containing
incandescent lamp.
was generated
battery,
in a small
chloride
of
silver
one lamp in a hair ornament, or the form of a bouquet, from 15s. each; and a complete set of battery, connections, and flower, at one guinea.
case
for
these
gems are
and carried in the breast pocket of a coat. Connection between the lamp and battery was made by means of a silken cord, carrying a pair of insulated wires, and this cord could be easily concealed under the clothing of the wearer of the illuminated jewellery. By pressing a spring, concealed in the vest or any other part of the clothing, a current was sent through the lamp, and caused the jewel to emit a flash of light. By such means as these, some pleasing and startling effects were produced. One serious drawback prevented the general use of this jewellery. Not only were the jewels
of pocket-book size,
priced at 2s. 6d. each, but they cannot always be obtained at such a low price from every
dealer,
4s. to 5s.
for each
a part of the apparatus which cannot be made by an amateur, but all other parts may be made by himself if he is at all acquainted with the art of making and setting
lamp.
jewellery.
idea of the method adopted in and fixing these lamps, I herewith give a sketch (Fig. 14) showing how the electrical connections are made between the battery and a
To give some
setting
scarf-pin.
the
first
cost of
the
coated with silk to represent silk cord or braid, can be obtained for the purpose from all dealers
in electrical sundries,
and should
it
soon ran
to
down
it
how
charge
per yard.
maker
to
be repaired, and
into disuse.
it
it fell
conductors at one end of the selected length of cord are connected to the two fine wires coming out from the lamp bulb, and are bound securely
With
application
lighting,
electric jewellery,
here with fine binding wire, enveloped in silk to prevent accidental contact of the wires. The whole cord must then be securely bound to the
stages of theatres. It was soon found that an accumulator might be made up in the form of a
satchel,
back of the pin or the stem of the flower, to prevent disruption of the wires when the pin or ornament is being removed. A sufficient length of flexible cord must be secured, to pass from
the pin under the clothing to the battery in the pocket, and from this down to a small push
"a fairy,"
star jewel
up a
stars
on the
flitting
fairy's head.
As those
concealed in the vest pocket, or elsewhere in the The other end clothing, as may be preferred.
of this cord must then be split, its conductors drawn out a little, cleaned, and fastened to the two connecting screws of the push, which will be easily found when the cover of the press is unscrewed. The cord connecting the lamp with the push must now be opened at a point judged two to be convenient for making a junction with
flexible cords attached to the battery terminals, such junction being at the edge of the pocket,
became known how they were maintained, a natural desire arose in the minds of the audience to possess specimens of such jewellery, and pocket the means for maintaining its brilliance. This led up to the invention of pocket accumulators, and their adaptation to the work of lighting fairy electric lights, made up in the form of gems for personal adornment. I am informed by Mr. Hartley, of the firm of
594
At
this junction
it
;
of the
bottom.
of
gutta-percha
;
shown. "When this is done, bind the joints with fine silk, to insulate the wires from each other, and then make the whole junction
secure by binding all closely and firmly together.
shall
6| inches in length by 4 inches in width cut off a strip 1| inches wide from one end, and
leave the sheet 5J by 4 inches, as shown on Fig. 1 6 this will serve as a dividing partition
;
We
now have
down
to the push,
from
two water-tight show the creases of the joints. Now get two pieces of smooth slate or marble, or any other hard smooth substance,
for the
cell,
to
divide
it
into
compartments.
The dotted
lines will
1>
"
'*
3V
fi G.i7.
A
f==>
c
::.-.
back to
the
Lj
td
Now, when
the
-1t^
B
-i
these are to
\-3s'
the push,
lamp will be lit up, and continue glowing whilst we press the push
button.
"""5
H
s
-l>
;
'
be used as moulding cores for the cell, so must be quite smooth, or we shall not be able to withdraw
cell
finished.
All
The small
mulator
can
accu-
n
FIC. 15.
FIG.
charged
be again
FIC. i6.
when
either
exhausted,
by employcurrent
enough
place
mould
ing
the
the
sheet
from a dynamo having an E.M.F. of eight volts, or with current from four Bunsens or four chromic acid cells arranged in series, care being taken to always send the current through the cell in one direction. As some of my readers may wish to make up pocket accumulators for themselves, I herewith
give instructions for
of
with i inch of the sheet projecting at one end and at the sides, and turn these superfluous parts down all round to form flanged
slate,
making the
cells,
the plates
Next take the larger it around the mould sheet soften this, and slabs, to form the outsides and bottom of a cell. The strips marked 2 inches will now be turned in under the bottom of the cell, and the slight extra projecting edges of the sheet must
be pressed over, to form the joints. Whilst the cell is hardening we may prepare
the plates, as directed in a previous chapter.
less
than
\ inch in thickness, 12 inches in length, and 6| inches in width. Cut this sheet to the shape shown at Fig. 15, and to the dimensions marked
thereon.
We
shall
need four
plates,
each being 4J by 3
1
The dotted
bines
inches.
The lugs on
;
inch
where the creases will be made when the guttapercha is moulded to the form of a box. The two side strips, marked 2 inches, must be slit,
on two plates, the lugs should be at the corners, but on the other two, halfway along the upper edges. Next prepare a cover for the
square
CHURCH
cell
CLOCKS.
595
cut
two
Fig. 17, at a
b,
two of the lugs, as shown at aud two holes to fit two bits of
CHURCH CLOCKS:
HOW
TO
TEIFLE.
shown
at c d.
fit
The
ALLEN.
be trimmed to
is
the cell
III. Dead-beat, or
when
this is completed.
Workes-
handling without distorting the shape, proceed to caulk the joints with a hot iron go over each
;
HE
"dead beat,"
or
"Graham"
seam with the hot iron until the guttapercha melts and forms a water-tight seam treat
outside
;
capement used, both for watchmakers' reguThe escape wheel is lators and church clocks. made of hammered brass, and the teeth must be
cut to the greatest nicety
;
manner
inside
in the
slate,
and
of the ordinary
amateur
but he can get anything in that line done at Smith's, St. John's Square, Clerkenwell.
of steel, the working and must be rendered as hard as it is possible to make them. They are sometimes made of brass, and the acting parts jewelled with slips of any hard polished stones and it would be as well to put two pins in
made
fill
water-tight
The
pallets are
made
one side with water after it has been caulked, and test the soundness of the same. All being sound and staunch, put in the prepared plates
of the central plates to overlap
and bed
The heat
the plate, to prevent the pallets going too far down the teeth of the wheel, and so damaging
the top of the partition, and make a water-tight connection. Spread a little hot
them.
will be the same train, and, be the same all over, as the pin wheel escapement, with the exception of the escape wheel and pallets. The next and last escapement is the double
gutta-percha on the connecting joint, run a hot iron along on the top of the partition; then quickly fit the cover in its place, pressing the
centre
in fact, will
gutta-percha, and so
make
and
fix
two
three-legged gravity, invented by the late Sir E. B. Denison for the celebrated clock at
Westminster,
in the world.
now
called
is
"Big
Ben,"
and
made
melted together, and applied hot. The cells may be charged with acid (proportions given in
previous article) before the cover
is
For
to
move a number
quite sealed
wind
and other large clocks which have of heavy hands exposed to and snow, the "Graham" and similar
turret
must be made water-tight with the cement. The two lugs of the side plates should be bent down, as shown by the dotted lines on Fig. 17, and a binding screw (telegraph pattern) soldered to each. The holes
;
down
escapements are not perfectly adapted. The driving weight of the clock must be adverse sufficient to move the hands under most snow the times at when Then, circumstances. the motion, their in hands the assist wind and
plugs of india-rubber.
to
whole of the superfluous power is thrown on the escapement, and accurate performance cannot
Hatton Garden,
are curved to
They
be expected. The custom has been to use for such clocks a " remontaire," which is an arrangement by
means
of
which the
train, instead of
impelling
596
CHURCH
;
CLOCKS.
The wheels can be'rivetted, one on each side, and the three pins drilled right through the brass, and rivetted, or otherwise secured. This must be well done. The pallets also lie in the same plane, between
the wheels, but one stop,
receive the a b c teeth,
s,
this
distance,
an arm of certain weight to proper and the weight of this arm in returning
is
points forward to
stop,
c
s,
now
points
backward
to
teeth
alternately.
there must
In the pallet tails be beat pins (see Figs. 16 and 17), which should be
made
round screw
secure
of
ivory
piece,
with a
it,
the middle.
allow
to
the
pendulum
the same
effect.
To
avoid
on the other
the
to
end
the
of
escape
all
tripping.
It will
danger of be
first-class
make, and the results are most satisfactory. It derives its name from having two three-legged wheels (a, b, o), and a, b, c in different planes, with one set of three lifting pins between them (see Fig. 16). The two wheels must be squared on the arbor, and the lifting pins need only be shouldered between them. Perhaps the best way is to turn a piece of brass to the shape, with a hole through the centre to fit on escape arbors.
It is very simple to
The
object of this
is to
we may make
differs
with
pendulum
is fatal.
Care should also be taken to make one pallet begin to lift simultaneously with the
CHURCH
CLOCKS.
597
ro
^)'
IG. 21.
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
OR DEAD BEAT ESCAPEMENT. FIGS. 16 AND 17. DOUBLE THREE-LEGGED ESCAPEMENT A B C, ESCAPE WHEEL TEETH D D D, LIFTING PINS E E, BEAT PIN F F, STOPS G, STUDS TO HOLD PALLETS K, PENDULUM ROD. H, SUSPENSION SPRING I, COCK TO CARRY PENDULUM FIG. 19. THE FLY; A A, FLY WINGS; B B, BRASS SPRING TO KEEP FLY AGAINST THE COLLET C, COLLET OR LOOSE HOLLOW ARBOR TO SUPPORT WINGS. FIG. 20. ENDS OF LEADING OFF RODS A A A, PIVOTS FOR SLOT B, SLOT C, PIN TO SECURE PIVOT D, LEADING OFF ROD. FIG. 21 MODE OF FIXING; A, MINUTE HAND; B, HOUR HAND; C, DIAL; D, WALL; E, IRON BAR G, CANNON PINION H, MINUTE WHEEL I, PINION F, HOUR WHEEL K, COUNTER WEIGHT FOR MINUTE HAND. J, COUNTER WEIGHT FOR HOUR HAND
FIG.
"
15. "GRAHAM
All the parts are made very light. The wheels are of very hard gun-metal, German
silver, or, better still, of steel
;
Every part of this escapement must be well made, and I have drawn it one-third full size, so that you will have no difficulty in striking but great care must be taken to make it out
;
a piece of an old
it
exact.
saw is just the thing. The pallets must be cut out of sheet-steel about | inch thick, or a little
and the stops made as hard as possible. should be of German silver or steel, and as thin as paper in fact, as light as it is posless,
The
fly
sible to
make
it.
will do, but it will have be higher up, so that the cock must be farther from the frame. In calculating this train, it must be treated as in an escape wheel of three teeth, so that we shall require another wheel and pinion that will multiply it by ten, making to
598
CHURCH
centre, 120; pinion,
;
CLOCKS.
The
dial will only
it is
it
great, 160;
;
20; third,
;
want a very
little notice,
110
pinion, 18
It will
fourth, 70
pinion, 10
escape
be seen that the pendulum is suspended from a cock secured on the framework of the movement. This is the usual way, but not the best, as the more solid it is fixed the
pin, 10.
make as you might at first think. The most simple way is to get a sheet of copper (or zinc, if money is scarce), make a hole in the centre, paint black, and gild the figures with gold-leaf. A better way is to
although
not so easy to
fret-saw the figures out of
solder on; or,
if
better and, if possible, should be suspended from brackets built into the wall of the building. The great Westminster clock was found to go much better when fixed this way than when fixed in the workshop, in what appeared the most solid built up framework that was possible. Now, having got our clock to tick, we must see about the dial work. I will assume it to have one illuminated dial of 6 feet diameter. It will be remembered that the centre wheel arbor revolves once in an hour, and carries the minute or long hand. But in a very few cases is it possible to fix it near enough or in line with the centre of the dial, so we have to resort to a kind of carrier (see Fig. 20), and with addition of
;
the dial
is
be illuminated,
centre,
drill
must have a hole in the and which can be drilled with a steel made very hot, and plunged into soldering
;
fluid
that
is,
with
zinc.
must be kept well lubricated with turpentine, and, if possible, used under water.
drill
The
If you really want to make a first-class dial, and do not mind the work, the figures, circles, and corners can be made in wood, and cast in
iron.
sheet of
;
glass
if
behind,
intended to be illuminated
and
the
pose
made of hollow f brass gas tube. Now, supwe have fixed a pair of these carriers on the arbor, and the dial is not far out of line, we
could go right through the dial, providing the carrying-off rod was perfectly true, which it is
sure not to be; so
carriers on.
back of it is grooved out like a picture-frame, it can be built up of small pieces of glass. If not to be illuminated, it can be secured a few inches from the wall, which will make a background But I do not like this method, as it is for it.
not so easy to distinguish the hands.
we make
a break about 18
As we
flat
we put
In making the hands, they should be countermuch as possible on the outside, and the remainder made up inside by lead weights cast on steel rods (see Fig. 21), which must be behind the gas-burners, or they will throw a
poised as
we
fix
shadow on the
is
dial
which,
am
sorry to say,
hand
a fault that can be seen in most illuminated and in fixing the gas, care should be dials
;
The cannon
pinion,
of,
say,
18,
drives the
minute wheel of 54 teeth, with a [pinion of 16 attached to it, running loosely to a stud fixed to
the plate.
taken to obviate this. It will be seen that I have not touched on the but in large subject of striking or chiming
;
drives
the
hour wheel of 64 teeth, which has a long pipe, and runs loosely on the arbor of the cannon pinion, to which is attached the hour hand. The hands are best made of copper, and must be strong enough to resist the wind and snow, and must be as light as possible if made hollow on the under side, with little bits soldered across, they can be very thin; and here lies an
;
and is quite distinct from the movement. In conclusion, I wish you every success and there is no reason why you should not succeed, as some of the finest mechanism in the world is the handiwork of amateur workmen.
;
good Paste
in
is
made by soaking
cold
flake
tragacanth
dissolved.
sufficient
water
so
that
opportunity
ingenuity.
to
exercise
your
patience
and
sink
when
American.
599
regulated accordingly.
speaking,
EN"
BEING-
by 4
feet wide,
and from 12
to 14 inches deep.
2HEEE
adjuncts to a
making our cabinet bookcase, we can either make it so that the front comes flush, or nearly so, with the chimney jamb, or we need not let it be so deep. The size of the one repreTherefore, in
is
"What
an agreeable
when
and 10 inches deep. This cabinet bookcase need not be made of expensive wood, as one made of deal, when stained, varnished,
if
taking in survey every part of the walls of a Toom, to see the middle shelves filled with well-
the
work
well.
sides
of
the
cabinet
art
beautiful
but
inexpensive
In the first place, get your stuff, which, by the way, when finished should all be of a thickness,
namely, f inch (the two sides can be
1
inch thick
Have
my
friend's
if
preferred).
Eirst
2,
pieces,
simply-
more
we
in
All these
little
Next saw two shelves for the top and bottom, the length of which you
inch from the front.
will regulate according to the
wall brackets have been designed, made, and fitted in their respective places, which, had they
cost a great deal of money.
width of the
recess.
we
see fitted
up
both exactly alike, and which, perhaps, his next door neighbour would not think of buying, or ordering to be made, on
account of the expense.
sawn out, we bead the front edge of the pieces, and screw the two side pieces to the shelves, as shown by the dotted lines in the side view (Fig. 2). Next fix the upright pieces in the inside, and letting the grooved sides face each other, screw the top and bottom shelves
to these uprights.
When
We now
fit
our cabinet or
Here
it
has readily
because he
been made by the owner of the house, simply is an amateur woodworker. How
china shelves, two at each side of the bookcase fix in their respective places by screwing
;
which they might just as well have seen in any shop window, and no doubt have already seen in scores of other houses. Instead of that, their eye meets at every turn some daintily carved or fretted woodwork, or
perhaps a painted panel of a cabinet door. In Fig. 1 is shown a recess fitted up with a cabinet bookcase and a settee. As recesses vary in different houses, the length and, perhaps, the height of the above-mentioned articles must be
between the side piece and the upright. These china shelves should be in a line with the grooves. The front of the pieces should be flush with each other, and the front edges should all be beaded. Next saw out the book shelves. These slide in the grooves from the back a very little will have to be sawn off the two front ends, to allow the shelf to come flush with the side, or it can be left 1 inch deeper in than the china shelves, thus allowing a glazed door to be fixed, which, when finished, will be flush with the rest of the work. Next saw out the corner brackets of hard wood commence by drawing a good pattern, then saw it out. "When finished, mark and saw
;
;
600
F1C.1.
Treatment cl'a Recess.
out
all
the others by
means
of this pattern, so
Bore the hole in the centre of the bracket with a 3-inch bit, then
chamfer the front outside edge off. corner brackets in the angle with a
Fix
little
the-
glue
pins.
Next saw
601
V
ing,
it
bethe
tween the
the sides to
sides,
and screw
fix
saucepan until it thickens into a paste this can be used warm or cold. We next make our settee, or couch-chair. In
;
it.
Now
it is
covered
all over,
with
up square \ inch full, running a bead down the centre of three sides saw this
planing
;
back upright pieces and a very little of the front The height of the legs, at the bottom only.
settee is 3 feet 4 inches over all
;
such another
ception of
rail,
only having
bead
at the front.
Now
fix
2 feet the width of the have said before, will be regulated Those parts of the according to the recess. settee which are not seen, even the front legs, can be made of deal. The two uprights are \\ leg to the upright
seat, as I
the railing, as
(front view).
square
inch square
settee is \\
by 2
dipped in glue before fixing, and are further secured by driving a thin wire
nail through the top
spindle,
rail
into
every
through
Serve
webbing interlaced and stretched and nailed firmly down with flat-headed nails, and the framing of the back should have a few rails covered with canvas, as a support to the
deal, or strong
stuffing.
the bottom railing on the plate shelf under the bookcase in exactly the same
The
manner
bottom
zontal,
as
of the spindles
and
;
dicular
be 1| inches long, J inch square. The back of this cabinet bookcase requires a few brass plates
to
may be proceeded with. good material for this purpose is old hay, which is largely used in the commoner kinds of upholstered goods by furniture makers place upon this a layer of cotton flock. In stuffing, you cannot use too much, but should ram it irt as tight and as full as you possibly can, or otherwith canvas, the stuffing
;
wise great
settlement
disappointment will
arise
by the
the settee has been in use a while, and by the consolidation of the material
when
we
back
seen
2.
with
Japanese
SIDE
FITTINGS.
under the weight and pressure of the body. When all has been canvassed over, the outer covering, of whatsoever material you may choose, whether it be carpet, plush, or cretonne, in the new art colour and patterns, should be stretched on tightly, then tacked. A valance is also cut out and tacked to the seat. The bottom of this valance will have fringe with bobs sewn to it, and a finish is given to the whole by pinning
with small black pins (used by upholsterers),
with gold in
it
will do, or
all
round
at the edges.
To paste
make
a paste of
This gimp also hides the tack heads, and gives a better finish. A couple of the new art pilluws or
cushions are placed against the wall at each end
602
of the seat
thus
we can
Both the recesses in the room should be fitted up exactly alike. We now come to the fitting up of the corner. Fig. 3 shows an open corner cupboard, 1\ feet long by 1 8 inches wide over all. The two side pieces are planed, and the ends mitred, to allow them to fit in the angle of the wall that done, fit the shelves, bead the front edge, and screw the two side pieces to the shelves. Then saw out and fix the corner brackets and the top rail, as shown in making the cabinet-bookcase. Fig. 4 is so simple of construction, that it would be superfluous for me to comment upon it. Suffice it to say that the front can be sawn out in thick fretwork, and fastened to a corner shelf or it can be made in the same way as the other rail. Fig. 5 shows a corner chair, the same design, and in keeping with the rest of the abovementioned articles. The three uprights and the
to our settee.
;
,
copper tube into the end, as shown pendant to a piece of wood, similar
nailed on to the
joist.
it
screw the
to Fig. 28,
about midway between the joists, a piece of wood, like Fig. 26, may be used to bridge the joists two small strips should be nailed on the joist, and then two pieces cut
pendant brings
from the end of Fig. 26, so that the pendant will lodge on the strips; it should then be skewnailed to the
joist.
The
best
way
to find the
proper board to take up is to bore a hole through the ceiling below, and through the floor boards, with what is usually called a bell-bit, viz., a long gimlet, like Fig. 27. Fig. 29 shows copper inlet for pendant, and Fig. 30 the brazed elbow for
bracket.
Fig.
31
shows two
strips
of
wood
under the boards it is best to pass these under the boards, and nail them together afterwards
;
if
leg will be
seat
\ inches square
when
finished
the
frame
rails are 2
by 1}
bars crossed under 1 \ inches, \ inch thick the top and bottom rails and the spindles are 1 inch
thick the seat
;
"When they are under, and them at each end under the pipe this keeps the pipe well up to the floor boards, and level, and prevents water
under the board.
nailed together, then nail
;
is
16 inches, from
it
is 2 feet
not needed, a
and prepare the joints as shown and stop the outlet of meter up with
;
to prevent accident,
then
but from the above-mentioned articles the amateur is sure to pick out something in the way of fittings which will meet his
substituted
;
and take the plug out of outlet, and put a leather washer on the union he must now screw it down. If the worker should have
;
requirements.
meter into a piece of compo or lead pipe, he will find that a piece of wire, bent like
inlet of
Fig. 33,
position,
is
very useful
it
it
TOWNSEND.
and keep
straight while
being
Supports for Pipe under in Pipe Pipe-tongs Gaspliers Screw-plate Tube-cutters Cork Slide
Pendant Testing for Escape Conclusion.
fit
up a house
and a similar number of bracket he must begin from the meter, as shown in Fig. 24, carrying the pipe up, using i inch tube where there are more than two lights to be fed; then strike off at a, and carry a piece of pipe to b, and solder a piece of f
The worker any time interfere with or disconnect this inlet, as gas companies and corporations do not allow any but their own men to do anything on their side of the meter. If the house is fitted up with "iron tube," and extra lights or a light is wanted, it will be necessary either to cut or drill a hole into the main supply, to run the There are two ways of doing this light from. either to cut the hole with a cutting-punch, like Fig. 35, or drill with a ratchet brace if it is
Fig. 34 shows a meter connected.
at
must not
603
604
cut out with a punch,
it is best to get a person to hold a good-sized weight under the pipe while
and sometimes by a
it is
being
cut.
When
the hole
is
cut in the
and wrench. Figs. 36 and 37 show plug and taper tap Fig. 38 is a tapping wrench a single-ended wrench will also be found very useful, as a
; ;
Fig. 54
is
in pipe, connect
it
by
compo, with a socket soldered on to connect the iron pipe and meter outlet. When soldering a straight drop screw into compo pipe, it may be
kept straight by dropping a gimlet down, as
using a union like Figs. 39 and 40, which are two parts of one screw Fig. 40 into the hole
cut in
pipe.
shown by Fig.
Fig. 59
is
58.
in. It
main supply, and Fig. 39 on to the branch It can then be connected whenever wanted.
is
Fig. 41
gas-pliers.
a pair of pipe-tongs
It is
Fig. 42 are
Fig. 60 is
It is not
cannot get the use of screwing tackle for iron pipe, a very good sub-
the worker
necessary for
may be made for and \ inch brass fine thread by making a screw-plate from an old
stitute
(Fig. 43) and this shape of screw-plate will be found very superior to the old-fashioned way of making screw-plates, viz., with two clearance holes. The old-shaped plate used to grind the thread off. A plate made the shape of Fig. 43 cuts it off, and when the cutting edges get dull from wear, they can be sharpened by holding A good subou the corner of a grindstone. stitute for stocks and dies for \ or f inch iron pipe may be made like Fig. 44 the middle of the die, a, should be about \ inch thick if
file
; ;
minute instruction for fitting up a house with iron pipe, inasmuch as the process differs but little from compo work. The shape of the fittings I have given will indicate their uses. However, in fitting up a house with iron tube, where the floor boards are down, it may occur that the worker has some difficulty in getting the iron pipe in long lengths under
to give
me
the boards.
When
must be got under in short lengths, and screwed together while under the boards, taking care to
white-lead every joint.
Fig. 62 shows a cork slide pendant.
These
this
When
and take
c o c o \ inch thick, the better for clearance should be drilled in, and then the thread backed
;
take the old cork off, bore a new one with gimlet screw on to Fig. 63, and then
;
off,
so
as
to
leave
about four
full
threads.
file it
down
until
it
is
a good
fit,
main supply, connect the pipe, and bring the pipe at back of slnrtingboard, using a bend (Fig. 45) for this purpose then cut and screw a piece to run from bend up to where the wall is plugged, and screw an elbow
Having
A
to
off.
Fig. 64
;
is
a burner elbow
66
is
Fig. 65
ditto.
is
a glass holder
Fig.
a screw for
If
it is is
on,
similar to
similar
Fig.
to
is
46,
or an
47.
elbow with a
Fig.
cut
nipple,
nipple.
Fig.
48
the
is
advisable to use f -inch pipe. After a house fitted, or only an additional light put in, it is
H
;
it
necessary to
pipe,
sometimes done, a pair of tube cutters is the best but failing to get tube cutters, use a diamond-pointed tool like Fig. 49, and get some one to hold a weight under the pipe while it is being cut. Having cut the pipe, screw both ends, and put a T piece in, like Fig. 50 the pipe may then be reconnected by using what is sometimes
as
is
;
on with a candle, so as to leave no escapes. If at any time after the floor boards are down there is any reason to suspect escape, it can be found, if such exist, by testing the meter. On every meter, wet
turn off the taps
;
then, while
still full
HOW
feet to find
if
TO
605
escapes exist.
full at meter,
but turn
off at all
one end on to the side of the cogwheel, with and the other end is fastened to the rod, q, which belongs to the force pump, G.
a small screw
;
Then
The
rod, q, slides
i,
con-
twenty minutes, and if any escape exists, it will be shown by the index finger having moved. The exact locality of the escape can be best found by the nose. Bear this caution in mind. Never test for escape under floor board with a
if gas has been escaping and accumulated there. The best way is to take up the floor boards, turn gas off at the meter, and wait for an hour until all the gas has dispersed. The gas may then be turned on again, and
structed of
wood
A pipe,
k,
proceeds
light, especially
from one end of the force pump, and goes underneath the framework, where its end is bent up so that it can be connected to a small indiarubber tube, which connects it with the water trough, wherever that may be placed. Another pipe leads from the force pump to the air chamber, r, at the top of which is the pipe through which the water is ejected. A seat, m,
for the driver is placed at the front part of the
fire engine and underneath it is the pole, J, to which the horses are attached. Under the side of the fire engine, and between the wheels, some
;
up a water-slide
chandelier,
should be looked to every six weeks or two months, and the slide filled up with water and in the summer, when not used, it is well to look
;
Fig. 2
is
fire
engine, the
to
them
I
occasionally.
by the same
letters as in
have
previously
given
instructions
for
making soft
but as
and other work, there may be some who have not seen
solder for blow-pipe
1. The action of the electro-motor pumping the water is very simple. When
Fig.
in
it
rotates,
Flux
in sweet
oil.
HOW
TO
MAKE
and the pump rod, which is connected to it, which reciprocating motion causes the pump to draw water through the pipe, k, send it into the air chamber, f, and eject it through the indiarubber tube into the air. Having gone through this preliminary
explanation,
we
will
now commence
is
the con-
by the way,
HE
toy which
we
resembles
in its action
an ordinary
steam
that electricity
Its side
is
fire
This is simply a plain piece of mahogany, oak, or deal, about inch or \ inch thick, 18 inches long, and 8 inches wide. Neatly round off both of the sides
mechanism are fixed b b are the wheels on which the fire engine runs, c is one of the binding screws to which wires conveying the electric current are fixed, and d is the electric motor, of which one of the ends of the axis projects outside the support, p, and consists of
pieces of
and the front end, and bevel off the back end in the manner shown in Fig. 1 Next prepare four wheels two large ones and two small ones to support the framework these may be of wood turned on a lathe, or of brass those which are used for model engines, with the flange cut off,
.
being very suitable, or they may be made in the shape of ordinary cart wheels. you adopt
pinion wire.
pivoted outside the support, and presses against the end of the
e, is
cogwheel,
the latter
method
of procedure,
you
will find
rotates also.
fastened
ample instruction for making cart wheels in a series of papers which has recently appeared in Amateub Work. Whatever may be the shape
vol. in. (n.s.)
606
HOW
TO
FIO.9.
FlO.'r.
W
ticularly
7n
c.s.
must be 6 inches, and the smaller pair Z\ inches in diameter, and small holes should be drilled through their centres, by means of which they are fastened on to the framework of the engine. Then fasten a piece of wood, 1 inch wide and 8 inches long, on the lower side of the piece of oak, and about 4 inches from one end. Next prepare an iron rod 10 inches long and J inch in diameter, and turn down each of its ends for \ inch in length, and cut screws on them. Bore a hole J inch in diameter right through the piece of wood which you have fastened underneath the framework, hammer the iron rod into this hole so that the two ends project equally, and fix it firmly. Then prepare
of the wheels, the larger pair
front of
wish
it,
you can
manner
which
may be
c is
is
4 inches square, b
and
the piece of
The piece of wood, a, is fixed underneath the framework, has a hole 2 inches square cut in its upper side, and a small hole, J inch in diameter, running through its centre. The thickis fixed.
ness of a must be such that when the whole arrangement is fitted into its place, the wheels
HOW
just touch the ground.
TO MAKE
AN ELECTRIC
FIRE ENGINE.
607
A piece
of brass rod, d,
work fasten a
having a nut at both ends, fixes A and b together, and when the upper nut is screwed up tight enough to allow them to slide over one another easily, a little melted solder is dropped on to it to prevent it from unscrewing itself. Prepare four nuts to fit on to the ends of the axles, fit the wheels in their places, and secure them by screwing the nuts up.
it,
Fig.
1).
piece of
the
(see
side
We
place
;
will
this
now
it
fit
the
electro-motor
into its
The guide
is
simply a piece
you can
either
or
enough
centre,
for
been pre-
pinion wire.
framework
motor, b
is
it should have its axis made of The method of fixing it to the shown in Fig. 4, where a is the
supports, which are and furnished with brass bearings f the cogwheel, and d the framework. The front pair of wheels, and the arrangement for fitting them on to d, are represented by e. The cogwheel is fitted on to the supports by a brass arrangement, which is represented by
its
axis, c g the
made
of wood,
Fig.
'2\
5.
its
One
to
fastens
in
its
place.
on the other end, Before securing the cogwheel in its place, a hole should be drilled and tapped in its side, about i inch from its centre, and a screw made to fit into this hole. "We will now leave the motor for a while, and turn our attention to the pump. This is an ordinary force pump, and you can either make it yourself, or buy one at the shop If you adopt the of a dealer in model engines. former method, there will be no need for me to give directions for its construction, as the matter has already been treated upon by previous writers. If you buy the pump, its shape will be something like that represented by Fig. 6. It consists of two barrels, a long one and a short one, placed side by side the long one having a small hole at the end which is farthest from the piston
;
and one of the ends turned up, so that it can be fastened down, by screws passed through it, in the position shown in Fig. 1 The pipes which connect the pump with the air-chamber and water-trough must next be fastened on to it. Both these pipes are J inch in diameter, and may be brass tubes, such as are used in model engines. The pipe, k (see Fig. 1), travels along the piece of wood, to which the pipe is fixed, and then descends underneath the car, and the end of it is bent outwards, so that a piece of india-rubber tube can be connected to it. The pipe which connects the pump with the reservoir passes from the short barrel on to the framework, and runs along it for about 2 inches from the piece of wood to which the pump is fixed, and then passes into he air-chamber, which we will now proceed to make. This is a piece of brass tube, which has both of its ends stopped up with pieces of sheet-brass. The piece of brass which covers up the upper end slightly overlaps it, and has a hole, J inch
its
in diameter,
The other
has
its
piece
of
brass
inches
in
it
diameter,
near
circumin its
A piece
and
1
of
fixed so that
its
upper end
projects about
its
\ inch in diameter,
lower end nearly touches the bottom. A hole, is drilled in the side of the
rod,
end.
and the short one having a hole at the other About 2 inches from the end of the frame-
chamber, near its lower extremity, and the tube which proceeds from the pump is fastened into The chamber is then screwed down on to it. the framework, in a position shown by f in
Fig.
2,
by means
of screws.
608
being denoted by
of brass
d,
by e and c, the tube from the pump by and the tube which is fastened on to e by b. We must now connect the motor with the pump. Turn the cogwheel round until the hole which you drilled through it is in its lowest position, and pull the piston rod of the pump
out until the piston
is
pump
When
they are
placed in
this
it, at a distance apart about \ inch greater than this distance, and loosely rivet it to
;
and
be suspended by hooks underneath the framework. The seat for the driver can be made of metal or wood if made of the former material, its lower edges should be turned up, so that it can be fastened down by screws passed through them but if made of the former, it should be glued down. Add any more furniture to the seat that you please, and then proceed to paint the various parts. This would be best if done with enamel paint, the colours used being black and dark yellow, the usual colours of fire engines, the wooden parts, with the exception of the wheels, being painted black, and the metal parts dark yellow. The spokes of the wheels, together with the buckets and ladder, would look best if done with vermilion.
;
;
When you have done this, make the pole. The shape of this and the method of fixing it
are represented in Fig.
2.
will necessarily
It consists simply of
fire
engine
is,
and tapering
slightly at
its
front
be rather large, on account of the large amount of work required to force the jet out. Two or three cells should, however, be sufficient to throw the water some distance, if you have made
the working parts accurately.
to
In order to fix it on to the fire engine, end. two small pieces of wood are glued on to the framework, and small holes are bored through them a stiff piece of wire is inserted through these holes, and made to extend from one piece of wood to the other, its ends being secured by
;
When
you wish
proceeds from
jet,
small nuts.
Fig. 2,
is
A brass
arrangement, depicted in
on to the end of the pole, and made to slide along the brass wire. A portion of the pole, and the method of fixing it, are shown in Fig. 9, where a is the pole, b the front part of the framework, d the piece of wire, c c the two pieces of wood, and a the brass arrangement which fixes the pole onto d. Now fix two binding screws on to the end of the framework, in the position shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and lead wires from them to the two terminals of the electro-motor, and the principal construction of the fire engine will be complete. There are a few minor details which now demand our attention. Fix two hooks on each side of the underneath part of the framework, and suspend a small tin pail from each of them. The pails you can get at a toy-shop, or if you are skilful in sheet-metal work, you can
fixed
should be coiled round a small upright piece of wood, placed at R (see Fig. 2) , fit it on to the
top of the air-chamber, and turn the electric
current on,
to
when
work.
this
Part.)
doubt whether there is a pursuit so eminently suited to an amateur's powers, or one that can be followed at so small an initial cost, as can fretwork. In the first place, an outfit quite sufficient for an amateur's purpose may be procured nowadays for a few shillings, and even treadle machines are offered at such low prices that one
to
AM inclined
make them
yourself.
A metal ladder,
made by
hand-sawing.
609
necessary)
working
is
so inconsiderable, that
at
re-arranging
amorini and
forms.
(re- drawing,
if
the
any kitchen
table,
scrolls,
and by
scrolls,
filling
up the blank
or with geometrical
is
Wood is cheap,
with which any person previously ignorant of the process can turn out
and the
belongings of anyone
many
their
be a useful addition to the who has a deal of writing to do, especially if he delight to surround himself with beautiful objects. It may be constructed
will
votaries
leisure,
who make
it
the occupation of
or
it
may be
will also
The mission
will discover
of fretwork
is,
without doubt, to
how
may be
imagine that very little alteration would transform it into a book-holder. Taken as it stands, and sawn out of metal of suitable thickness, an
ordinary perception will at once discover that
it
extended to household adornment. He will be eager to produce many knick-nacks that his
hitherto, and will find opporchamber for an exhibition of his skill. In fact, where a fretworker flourishes there need be no lack of embellishment, and empty corners may be deprived of bare angularity, and filled with his handiwork.
may be
The
to the
is
used as a finger-plate.
dwelling
knew not
tunity in every
third and last design will commend itself amateur who indulges in the " weed." It a contribution to the orderly arrangement of
the household.
I expect that
it
It is not, however,
my intention to
hysterically
committed the tidiness of the home, for I have no doubt she could tell a tale of foul tobacco-pipes
lain carelessly in inappropriate places.
It
eulogise
the
may
but rather to point the reader to a means whereby he may derive pleasure and satisfacto this end, examples of tion in home work such articles that an amateur may employ his
;
be made from walnut or mahogany, with a careful attention given to the correct outline of the
centre place.
This pipe
member
of the bracket
upon are shown upon the folding sheet accompanying this part. If the amateur feel inclined to depart from these designs, he must
skill
little
amplification to be the
exact thing.
Taking the photo frame as the most important of the three, there is no particular amount of instruction necessary for making it but I will
;
make
a suggestion that
it
exhibits.
For
may be sawn
from sycamore or maple, and the foliage surrounding them may be of mahogany, whilst the actual frame might be of walnut. A backing of stout brown paper will strengthen the whole, and the paper at back of the sawn-out spaces could be cleared away when all has become dry. The frame maybe altered to become a double or triple frame a style very popular at present. Again, it may be cut small enough to hold a carte photo. But a greater departure will consist in adapting the design for a wall bracket by
In conclusion, I would make one more and that is, if the amateur aim higher than mere fretwork, he may reproduce either of these designs by a process of inlaying. If he elect so to do, the material he uses may be less stout than is usually employed for fretwork but the whole will, in that ease, require a backing of thin wood, the grain of which must be at right angles with the work superimposed upon it.
suggestion
;
;
IT.
BECKERLEGQE.
ac-
SVEEY
are of various
610
types,
New-
tonian,
Gregorian,
matic, such as is
used, there is a compromise, invented by Mr. Alexander Rogers, and sometimes called after him, but more frequently known as the dialyte, from the fact that
composed of crown and flint glass, which are of different density, by means of which an object is seen free from colour. If the reader has gone through my articles on light, he will have seen how prisms break up and disperse a ray of light. A lens is practically an infinite
number
of prisms.
to a different
degree
is
refracted
in focus,
is
.. ..
.^, -,-..
&
-^
M^^ 3U
JK
FIG
-=
3r
.
s%-
I.
/.<.
r,
\vsfl
FIG.
3
i^i|^
^^T
FIG. 2.
jB
F!
FIC.6.
5.
"'
"
--
.^-'^
DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES.
FIG.
TELESCOPE COMPLETE. FIG. 2. THE CELL D CARRYING THE FRONT O.G. AND SCREWED INTO THE BODY TUBE C; TWO-THIRDS FULL SIZE. FIG. 3. THE CELL CARRYING CORRECTORS; A, CROWN GLASS; B, FLINT GLASS D, FLANGED RING TO RECEIVE THE CELL E G, ADJUSTING TUBE, TWO-THIRDS FULL SIZE. FIG. 4. PINION. COVER TOR PINION. FIG. 6. ARRANGEMENT OF FILES AND SLIPS OF WOOD TO CUT A RACK A, B, C, FILES. FIG. 5.
I.
DIALYTE
is
divided;
still
out of
meaning
to divide.
There are
certain
advantages and
vantages pertaining to this kind of instrument. The fact that it has not been put into the
and which appear as a ring of colour round the object, either blue or red, depending on the position of the lens. Now, it will be
easily seen that
if
a second lens
is
used of a
dif-
market by any maker, will naturally be conat the same time, it sidered unfavourable must be admitted that many amateurs who have worked for love, have produced exceedingly good results. As most of my readers are aware, a first-class
;
A piece
of glass for
achromatic O.G.
is
built
cemented
together.
This
be absolutely of the same density throughout, else the image of an Look at a distant object will be distorted. chimney through ordinary window glass, and the outline will be irregular, simply because
purposes must
; ;
611
making
The
larger the
disc
.ire tiie
hence
which
posing
glass,
will
amongst the four referred to that suit his plan and pocket. Supintends
to
with the
size.
To have
he
that
grind
his
own
lens,
three
discs,
then,
perfect. optically,
cisely of
is
of equal density
strife,
throughout
a given curve, so as to admit of their being cemented together, will naturally require much care. But suppose we divide the O.G. into two or more pieces, and one-half the distance between the O.G. proper and its focal
point
bleb, or bubble,
labour expended on it will be in vain, no matter how carefully it may be finished, objects will be distorted, and the instrument will be useless. If, on the other hand, it is
for
we
it
is
it
we
shall
As
to
the
diminished
size,
centred
that
is,
be made
do
substantially the
The following are formulae which have been worked out by several practical men and clever
amateur
opticians,
it
and
which,
;
if
faithfully
it
In giving hints and methods of construction, will be necessary to have some fixed measurement, and as, perhaps, the smallest size will be considered the most desirable one for a beginner,
must be always understood that the object must be kept in the centre of the field, else there will be
but
distortion
1.
:
we
1
will fix
1
upon
it.
Fig.
Front object
glass,
8i inches in diameter
Correctors
of
crown=2-5
flint=3 65
combined
length,
;
13 feet
is
11| feet; virtual focal length, thus the magnifying power at 11 \ feet
Front O.G. 1\ crown glass radius, 76-9 and 175*1 (most convex side outside). Correctors 4 inches plain convex crown radius, 9 inches; 4 inches double concave flint radius, 161-1 and 9 97 inches (crown next to crown, with the
-
A word on the body tube. This must be of a kind to suit the taste and means of the amateur. It can be built up of paper in a, manner described in a former article. Tin-plate, zinc, or wood may be pressed into our service, though for the present we will suppose we have to deal with brass, which must be inch larger in the internal diameter than the O.G. Brass tubing thick, at about lOd. per lb., is sold in two kinds and a thin kind, with the inside polished by being drawn over a mandrel this is about 2s. 6d. per lb. the latter is generally used for small
:
is
considerable dif-
Front O.G. 4J French plate double convex focus, 60 inches; radii, 240 and 24 inches. Correctors 2+ double dense flint piano concave, 3 1\ plate glass piano convex, 3J (piano sides
3.
by the means
of a
burnisher,
made with
together).
4.
focus,
Corrector
inches;
equi-convex,
61 2
inches.
inches
diameter crown
double
convex, radii 7-7 and 15-2; 2 inches diameter, flint double concave, radii 10-45 and 15-2.
If the tube is laid on a piece of wood, with the bruises downward, and the burnisher is worked on the inside over them, they will be easily removed. For the 4 inches O.G., which is 5 feet focus, we shall require 4 feet 6 inches of tubing this must be cut in of the tube.
level
;
612
^
Care
2 inches in diameter.
md
i
we
the tube
is
Each piece must be mounted on a mandrel, and the ends turned perfectly true.
A cell
may
casting
;
will
now be
up
in a lathe,
it
mi]
2 inche
some respects, the easier and more workmanlike, though more costly. Fig. 2 gives a section of
the pattern for which must be \ inch larger outside diameter, and i inch smaller the
cell,
hole in the disc If inches oTanWI^^^B of the disc must be milled. have
We
now
when
and
if
finished.
The
inside
must be turned
allow a shake
there
is
shown,
The
may be
just large
fits
enough to
else,
its
it
perfectly tight,
danger of
cracking.
to
have a thread chased on it, to receive a collar keep the O.G. in its place of course, it can be put in with a bezel, but this is not the best
;
plan. The outside must have a thread chased on it, and a corresponding thread chased in one end of the longer tube, to receive it the other
;
end of the tube must be packed up by a ring, 1 inch wide, sprung into it, and then soldered. The ring may be made by cutting off a piece of tubing the same size as the one we are working with, and taking out as much as will allow it to
spring into
2
the
tube.
similar ring,
but
inches wide,
jecting
end of the shorter length, but proon this a thread must be chased, corresponding with one cut on the inside packing piece of the other tube. The two pieces can now be screwed together. The advantage of having the tube in two lengths will be manifest as we proceed. Care must be taken
into one
1
inch
is
turned true
of the tube.
A thread on the inside receives a keep the lenses in position. The The central flanged ring, d, may now be made. hole must be turned up and chased, to receive the cell just made, and the flange must be chased to screw into the sliding tube that goes into c. Now, if the lenses are properly centred, and our work is done with care, the optical axis of the lenses will be coincident. We now require a flanged disc, with a central tube, a (Fig. 1), for the end which carries the eye-piece. This may be built up by soldering Cut the ends of a a ring of brass to a disc. tube, 4 inches long by If inches diameter, true. Before chasing the flange, solder the tube in the disc mount it in the lathe, and turn it true, so that the disc shall be perpendicular to the tube. (I would just say here, once for all, that it is of the utmost importance that the axis of the different tubes are perfectly coincident, and that central holes, whether to receive tubes or lens, must be made with the same care, as the centre of all the lenses must be in line, else there will be distortion, and when completed, our
out the
cell.
ring, f, to
'
Now
instrument will
points apply
to
be useless
all
of
course,
these
and of a size that when turned up true on a mandrel will slip into the tube, g, spring tight, and without any shake whatever. We shall
require a flanged ring to screw into this, as d
it, we must Measure the combined thickness of the two correctors, and add to it i inch, which we will suppose will be, together, 1 J inches this must be the length of a tube of a size to take the correctors, which are
(Fig. 3)
but before
we can
finish
and must not be considered as a special feature in the instrument before us.) But to return to our work. For appearance sake, a ring should be soldered to the front end of the tube, and
optical
instruments,
make
Select a piece of tubing that will slide easily, but without shake, in the collar now made, and cut it off 1\ inches long this is the focussing tube, to carry the
;
eye-piece.
613
now
line, 3
pinion.
Unquestionably, most
persons
wouL^^nd^^^a^^^M|^^e
to procure a rack
proceed thus:
rial
and as much metal as possible taken out drill, after which the slot must be filed up true to the marks, or the exact width of the
with a
;
rack
wire
turn a pattern in
:
drilled
and countersunk,
its
as a (Fig. 4)
place,
and see
if
the teeth
too
come up
if
when
finished
1^ inches from the boss, file the leaves away down to the core, leaving the pinions intact for
if
may be
tacked in
its
J inch, and file away from this point to the end. AVe now have our pinion in the rough. It must be carefully centred, and turned up in the lathe, as shown in Fig. 4. Roll the pinion over
a piece of wood, so that the leaves
definite
remove
replace
it,
fit
a small screw
it,
and and
We shall
to
now need
a small casting,
may make
mark, that the distance between each leaf can be nicely measured. Now procure a strip of brass, Z\ by \ by \ inch file it up
;
its place.
true.
files,
as thick
as the
as
shown by the
;
marks
files by thin wood, as thick as the leaves with one of the files cut into the rack (that is to be) a groove \ inch from one end this is for starting.
;
wood
separate these
form a cover to keep the pinion in side must be filed to a curve it is cast with a recess on the to fit the tube under side, to take the pinion of course, it can be worked out of the solid, but a casting would be less labour. A hole must be made in the collar, \ inch square, and \\ inches from the
by f inch,
The under
;
slips of
Place the
the rack
collar, so that
;
Now
tie
the three
files,
slips of
wood
make
this plain)
place
file
other
two grooves
last
file
in the
and proceed as before.' By this means we shall be able to cut the rack with
groove
cut,
considerable accuracy.
are cut, they
When
all
the grooves
must be finished off one by one, with the edges nicely rounded off and smoothed.
It will be a prudent thing to test the rack with
shows through the hole lay the pinion in its position, and mark where the spindle bears on the collar with a rat-tailed file, take away sufficient to allow the pinion a good bite on the rack. Now place the cover on, and see where, and how much has to be taken away to allow the Be careful that cover to fit solid on the collar. no more is taken away than is necessary, as there must be no shake in the pinion. Four holes must be drilled in the cover and through the collar, those in the collar to be tapped to receive
;
small
brass
screws
slightly larger,
it
is finished,
cutting to see
sides of
made, there will be a space \ inch long left at each end these must be filed away level with the bottom
the right pitch.
of the groove.
When
Two
strong pins
must be rivetted, or screwed, and soldered into two plates, which must be screwed to the sides
of the tube.
make a long
When
inch, starting
it,
make
rack this must be 3 inches by atf inch from the inner end. To proceed thus with a scriber draw a
:
614
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTICE TO OUR READERS.
HE publishers of
New
*=2 Series of
sit
person
who holds
the handles
lie
enables a child to
with
the
present
it is
made
of
their intention to
durability
at Messrs. Whiteley's,
Wj
of
this
to
believe that a popular re-issue at a cheap price will be heartily welcomed by the rising generation of Amateur
XVII.
Workers, and will provide an opportunity for desire it to acquire a book that will be useful for
all
who
all time.
Prize
of
Each number will consist of twenty pages of reading matter and illustrations, giving instructions how to make many articles for use or ornament in the home and the
;
Specimen of invoking a
scribers,
One Guinea given for the best Carving. With a view of spirit of emulation among the sub-
Wood
and
in
re-issue
will
reproduce
all
the
ensured the popularity of the Magazine at its inception. The first Number will appear on November 7, and with
it
the
will be presented
working drawings of a
commencement of the present volume and each month since, the proprietors have offered one or more prizes to be contested for.
The
subjects
in
Fretwork.
were
all
and
their character
was varied, so as
to give
a chance
fitted to
to followers of
work
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
By
The
THE EDITOR.
The
originator
my
it
attention
is first
arrested
have anticipated the welcome awaiting it, nor could he have foreseen that it would be so universally adopted as it has been. If his efforts were only directed to provide a
toy for children's use, they were at once crowned with sucfor the new go-cart rapidly became popular ; but beyond being a companion for children's romps, it has developed into more sober uses, and even parents now do not hesitate to impel it along the pavement. In fact, a
cess,
The
complete
tion
it
of that Part,
To
this
viti
all
Ravenglass,
I
sum
of
locomotion has evolved from the crude original construction of the mail cart, and it has been widely adopted for
the constitutional airings of
Half-a-Guinea.
am
compelled thus to divide the prize, because there is a specimen which equals in excellence the above it is a finger-plate representing oak and ivy entwined,
;
may
be, yet
it
may
be described as a fine
and Cooke to make still greater improvement, and they have produced a child's carriage which for perfect safety
has never yet been surpassed. In the first place, the 'Victor' carriage is provided with shafts, bent upwards, and sufficiently high to prevent the objectionable slant which
characterised
shafts,
To
Mr. James
W.
sum
of
Half-a-Guinea.
the progress of
those
possessing straight
and
this
The following specimens are highly commended : An oak panel, by Mr. Predk. Holt an oak panel, by Mr. William Clarke a mahogany panel, by Mr. P. A. Rathbone and I think it only fair to say that these
; ; ;
One
of
little
inferiority to
the
is
that a child
may
'
615
running away from the point marked
for
its
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
to all, and especially to Mr. Gleeson White. And now, with every good wish for the success and long life of
centre, even
when
that point
is
SEA DEBS.
ateur
found out.
for
its
staff,
I will
makeshift
the
Work
In the Colonies.
-nd, M.D., writes
1
i
conclude this
:-
letter."
made
exactly
for
the
in
'
Amatr.rs
reous replies
indents.
Othe Bishop of Rupert's Land, asking him to introduce the work into S. John's College, and suggesting that the bound volumes would make excellent prizes
in
much
unfortunately,
young
hobby.
to provide a workshop,
mv
to Amateuh between the teeth. A paper scroll promoted the might do as a guide, but, then, the welfare of the magazine with the same centres of the marks on the scroll must amount of diligence and zeal as you be found, and that is not easy." appear to do, I might congratulate Simple Ornamental Turning. myself upon increased circulation, and The following letter, relating to success would be sustained and ensured. transactions between the Rev. J. L. As it is, however, your letters are Dwyer, B.A., and Clericus Secundus," always welcome for the cordiality they is printed in order to stimulate others express and it is because I am delighted who desire to try their hand at ornato read them, and because I desire my mental turning. The latter gentleman staff may share my satisfaction at the had accepted the offer of the author of knowledge of the appreciation the the papers dealing with that subject, to articles find even in the remote regions mark off a division-plate for him, and of Manitoba, that I print your com[If
every
subscriber
Work,
Illustrated,
'
'
this letter acknowledges the obligadone with that munications. I have forwarded your tion Bishop yet, and I have still hopes of letter to Mr. Dwyer. Ed.] " The plate has just come to hand, getting something done. Anyway, I sufe and not damaged, though, from Division- Plate. wish you would send me some prospectuses of Ajlateur Work, for I have H. Aubrey Husband, writing to the the look of the package, it seems as if torn all the notices out of my monthly Rev. J. L. Dwyer, B.A., says " I the postal authorities had looked upon parts, and given them away. By-the- must apologise for troubling you, but a your repeated exhortations to carefulcertainly not to bye, I am surprised that manufacturers division-plate is a great trouble to me. ness as a good joke and sellers of tools, etc., do not Could I not get a flat, circular plate of be taken seriously. However, all is advertise more with you. The iron, steel, or gun-metal, and by the well that ends well, and the plate is a Americans are a great advertising aid of a protractor draw lines from the most handsome one. I am more obliged people, and are always ready to send centre to the circumference, and then to you than I can say, and am only should have given their catalogues gratis. I have quite a drill holes along the lines so drawn ? I sorry that you pile of them, and if I have not bought have looked through the catalogues 1 yourself any anxiety as to the unavoidanything at the time, others have on have, but find no mention of division- able delays. I ought to have written I have spent plates. seeing the catalogue. My lathe is a 5-inch centre, (my very scanty leisure must be my about 150 dollars with the John made by the Seneca Falls Manu- excuse) to assure you that there was no Wilkinson Company, of Chicago, facturing Company, and known as the very especial hurry, as I was engaged in merely by seeing a recommendation of Crown Lathe.' May I venture to the pressing but very uninteresting job the firm from a Jamaica correspondent ask you to give me and others some of building a fowl-house this is now in Amateurs in Council.' The firm makeshifts ? Please bear in mind as nearly completed, and I shall soon, I above mentioned sell almost every- my old and venerated teacher, the late hope, be able to set about making the thing, or will get anything j ou want Professor James Lyme, of Edinburgh, tools, as per articles in Amateur Work, with the utmost civility. Please was wont to say that a patient thanked and for which I already have the inform my kindly correspondent, E,' you more for curing him of a simple castings and forgings. I have also put that I have found out that the soapy but painful ailment than for taking off up an overhead so you see I am in substance found on the banks of the his leg in thirty seconds. So it is with earnest. Allow me once more to thank Souris is a form of fuller's earth. In other things besides surgery. Things you for your exceeding kindness. passing, I wish that more amateurs too simple to you now are what we want Should any opportunity occur, I shall
not
'
'
'
would come forward, and give us poor out here. Thanking you for past fellows on the boundless prairies Could not a paper assistance. P.S. and elsewhere the benefit of their scale of a division - plate be glued, discoveries in 'Amateurs in Council.' pasted, or otherwise fixed on a metal That portion of the magazine i3 not as plate, and the holes drilled ? strong as it might be, or rather ought The Rev. J. L. Dwyer's reply
'
be delighted to prove
my
appreciation
my
''
to be, with so
is
many
'
readerB.
My house
too,
" It
is
furnished,
in
and uniquely
Ours,'
from
articles
giving
for
and
instructions
Mark of a protractor or compass, but it making, a self-acting fountain. These Mallett, ' The Mock Turtle.' But why would require the patience of Job, and Parts are still procurable on applishould I specify, when I owe so much the drill has an unenviable knack of cation.
designs
thanks
to
616
Sliding Doors for Book-Case.
AMATEURS IN
"Nom
COUNCIL.
Paper Scenes.
de Plume."
writes
:
James Scott " I wish to mflH^BB^MMUcenes on inform any readers who feel at all in- to case with sliding doors, which appears terested in any of my contributions to sm in this month's Magazine, from the Amateur Work, article, that the fertile imagination of Mr. J. Scott. No Sliding Doors,' Bookcase with doubt this will supply you with the appearing in this part, signed by Salisbury gin directions you ask for ; or perhaps you Designer,' my work. Writing is can turn the article about and extract under noms-de-plume is a practice not tlfl -.till crack, hen from it information, and adapt it, if at all young in the journalistic world your scenes when not quite suitable, for your purposes. and it would have needed no remark
Tonbridgian.
Allow
me
to
point
Molyneux "
way
calico,
'
'
Shocking
Galvanic.
Coil.
from me
at present
were
it
Instructions on "
How to
fact of
my
D. A.,
New
Zealand, writes
reflecting
my
papers with
my own
name.
It
"Having made a
telescope
do not approve of the use induce me thus to alter my signature coils, neither large nor and it must Buffice for me to say that small. Of what use are they in the it is not a very important matter hands of an amateur ? They are usewhether my articles bear the cognomen In less as a means for curing disease. of the 'Bogie Man' or another, prothe hands of a qualified medical elecviding ewallowable fare is produced." trician they may be employed in
shocking
'
'
would be uninteresting to the general 6 inches diameter, I should be glad if reader to be told the causes which some reader would give instructions to
make
it.
I should of
of
like to
wheels
governor."
special
cases,
the hands of
Spots on Cloth.
" Olericus Secundus" asks, on page A coil having a core 6 inches by | inch, wound with No. 20 520, for a recipe for removing spotB as a primary, and No. 36 as a secon- (a combination of oil and dust) from dary coil, will give shocks strong black cloth. I have just been operating enough to kill a strong man. Do you on some spots of the above description, think of getting amusement from such and of long standing, with benzine, and a coil ? I think the shocks will be like it removed them at once. There is donkey's kicks, more pleasant to give scarcely any kind of stain of a greasy than to receive. The author of the little nature that it will not remove. It coil described in the back number above takes off paint more easily than turpenmentioned, says that the shocks from tine, and does not leave such an his coil, with one half-pint cell, is unpleasant odour, being much more " much more shocking than is plea- volatile. Candle-grease or wax also
sant."
" Could any your readers inform me, through Amateur Work, how to stain and var-
Violoncellist writes:
The
'cello
How
"
could
Grind
your colour in
if
those colours to
with
which
to
Cui bono
9G.
Mix a small
E. B.
yield to
it
readily.
Bookbinding.
Telephones. Experienced Amateur. Assuredly " A. H. Burnand." I am sorry to " J. B. Molyneux." You will find rolls will do for both back and sides of book. Glaire must be allowed to dry tell you that I do not perceive any an amount of useful information on the when it is placed upon the leather or quality that is particularly novel about subject of telephones in Vol. II., Old cloth that is to receive gilt there is no your screw-hammer, a photo of which Series, Amateur Work, Illustrated. need to fear that the gold-leaf will is before me. It is simply a form of
Screw-Hammer.
adhere where the tool does not touch. You must varnish the leather entirely.
shifting
spanner,
with
very
little
Electric Bell.
"
The Art
;
departure from others that are obtainable. All of these are very useful tools,
but I do not think there
is
" S. A.
in its
room
for
Simplest Form," appeared in Parts 22 and 23, Vol. II., New Series, of
Garden
its
price
is 5s.
another unless
it
worthy features than does yours. I am " Safety " Bicycle Fittings. pleased to know that you approve of J. Crane writes asking where he can the The subjects you magazine. obtain the fittings for the " Safety mention will be found as follows "A bicycle described in the June Part, Lathe Planer," in VoL VI., Old Series Vol. I., Kew Series, of Amateur Work, " Model Boiler," Vol. VII., Old Series Illustrated? Write to Hillman, "Aquarium Making," Vol. VII., Old Herbert and Cooper, 14, Holborn Series; and "Pattern-making," in Vol. Viaduct, VII., Old Series.
''
:
"J.
S.
B." Please
;
Dwyer
had better buy a small lathe-head, as I am not able to turn metal; one other
question I should like a reply to
is,
what
?
dimensions should
be to
or
angle-iron
make a